dream of

The volcanoes on Stromboli and Vulcano erupt fairly frequently.

INSIDE:

Day Trips from Palermo 4

What to Do in the Aeolians 8

An Accidental Agriturismo 10

Map: Sicilian Highlights 12

ITALYVolume 4, Issue 6 www.dreamofitaly.com September 2005

alermo has a very mixed reputation among both foreigntourists and Italians. For many,

it instantly brings to mind the Mafiaand urban chaos, a city still crumblingfrom World War II bombings andmarked by the relentless overbuildingthat followed the war. Many know thefamous line from the Roberto Benignifilm Johnny Stecchino when his charac-ter is asked if he knows about the bigPalermo problem (supposedly theMafia) and he responds, “Of course,there is so much traffic.”

But if a visitor takesthe time to digbelow the surfaceand explore this historic and impor-tant city, there aremyriad rewards inartistic treasures,historic buildings,local culture, delicious food and anunquenchable life force among thepalermitani, as the local residents are called.

Palermo’s history is filled with a succession of outside forces who ruledover the city, from the Phoenicians tothe Arabs to the Normans to theSpanish and many others. Modern day Palermo has digested all thosestrains and fused them into a uniqueappearance and culture.

However, Palermo does not lend itselfeasily to discovering its attractions.They are spread out over a wide areaof the city and the traffic and the nottoo reliable public transportation system make it imperative to have astrategy when visiting the city.

Palermo is set in a vast bowl, the

islands, which Americans refer to asthe Aeolians. Here, Aeolus, the god ofthe winds, greeted Odysseus with a bagof breeze to ensure his safe passage.But when Odysseus’ crew, curious,

opened the bag, they wereblown from rocky shore toshore, left to fend forthemselves in the mosttreacherous waters of theTyrrhenian Sea. These aredry, inhospitable islands,

where all living things—figs, capers,apricots, rabbits—struggle so for sur-vival that they are bursting with theintense fragrances and flavors of a briefbut concentrated life.

I am returning to these islands afterthree years to satisfy a hunger I’ve hadever since—for the spicy perfume ofpale pink caper flowers, for fish thatswim in turquoise waters, for sweet

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continued on page 2continued on page 5

he most romantic way to get tothe Aeolian Islands (Isole Eolie),the rugged volcanic archipelago

north of Sicily, is by overnight boatfrom Naples. Bring dinner to eat onboard, pass Capri in thedisappearing light and belulled to sleep by the sea.Set your alarm clock for 5a.m., then crawl out ofyour bunk and onto thedeck, face in the wind.The night is so black the stars ofPleiades are as distinct as the sevenislands themselves.

Then, out of nowhere, a flare of bloodorange lights up the sky, shootingsparks like shooting stars. It isStromboli, the volcano that stands as asentry to the islands, at once warningvisitors of the fierceness of the placeand proclaiming its wild beauty.Homer was the first to mention these

Sicily’s Aeolian IslandsInspire Relaxation

P

NavigatePalermo

Like a Native

T

SPECIALREPORT:SICILY

La Sire

na

Filicudi

2

Conca d’Oro, surrounded by hills onthree sides and the Mediterranean Seaon the fourth. The port is large andbusy, but for the most part, the longseafront area is cut off from thecity. One has to go far eastor far west in the city totake advantage of the water. Palermo isalso a crazy quilt of distinct neighbor-hoods and zones with no “center” toprovide a focus for sightseeing activities.

The city, as a whole, is also not a placethat is inviting to pedestrian trafficalthough once you get to specificneighborhoods, walking is possibleand pleasant. However strolling onsome of the major streets in the down-town area is sure to give you a head-ache from the noise and the fumes.

Having said that, in the ten years thatseparated my two visits to Palermo,there has been a striking change in thecity—for the better. On our most recentvisit, it seemed cleaner and brighter,although there are still patches wherethe crumbling and deterioration arestill evident. Although Palermo has areputation for crime and petty theft,we didn’t feel apprehensive while visiting any part of the city.

The neighbor-hoods of Palermoare quite distinctand hotels andrestaurants are notlocated in any onezone, any morethan the attractionsare. For the firsttime visitor, a listof the most oftenvisited sites willgive a good starting point fordeveloping a strategy for“doing” Palermo.

Included on most lists are the CappellaPalatina (for the brilliant mosaics), the

Cattedrale (for its hybrid architectureand its massive size), the Churchof the Martorana (again for itsmosaics and as the birthplace of

the Sicilian specialty of marzipanor almond paste candy fruit sculp-tures), the Quattro Canti or FourCorners (the old center of Palermowith fountains and sculptures on eachcorner), the Archaeological Museum(with its amazing collection of Greekand Roman antiquities), the three not-to-be-missed outdoor food markets—the Vucciria, Ballaro’ and Capo and thetwo major opera houses—the TeatroPoliteama Garibaldi and the TeatroMassimo.

So what is a visitor to do in the timethat they have allotted in Palermo? The first thing is to group the desiredplaces to visit geographically. Then determine to take public transporta-tion—most likely a taxi—to get as closeto each area as possible. When in eachzone, it is possible to walk among theattractions.

For example, theCappella Palatina

with its brilliantmosaics is locatedin the southern flankof the city. It ishoused in the Palazzodei Normani, now aSicilian governmentbuilding. If the visitorstarts there, the peace-ful and lovely SanGiovanni degli Eremiti,one of the best exam-ples of Arabic Normanarchitecture and now adeconsecrated church,is only a few blocksaway. From there, it isa short walk to theCattedrale, a massive

Palermo continued from page 1

Palermo’s CathedralItalia

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Teatro MassimoItalia

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Palermo was founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th ce

Where to EatPalermo offers a wealth of eating

options...from delicious Sicilian streetfood—arancini (deep fried rice balls),

panelle (fried chickpea fritters served on aroll), spleen sandwiches with various

toppings, etc.—to wonderful fruits (thelocal blood oranges are delicious) and vegetables to great local seafood andSicilian pasta specialities in a wide

range of trattorie and ristoranti at all price ranges.

Antica Focacceria San Francesco Via A. Paternostro, 58

(39) 091 320264

Open daily from 10 a.m. to midnight.Sicilian street food specialities—spleen sandwiches, rice balls, stuffed focaccia,

fried vegetables—as well as full meals in the upstairs rooms. Lunch for two with

wine averages 15€.

Trattoria Stella (in the Hotel Patria)

Via Alloro, 104 (39) 091 6161136

Closed for lunch on Monday. Open otherdays 12:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. and 8:30 p.m.to midnight. Tops for atmostphere and local

specialities (including grilled fish dishesand seafood pasta) in La Kalsa. Dinner

for two with wine costs about 60€.

Ristorante Sant’Andrea Piazza Sant’Andrea, 4

(39) 091 334999

Closed Tuesday. Open other days 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. and 8 p.m. to midnight.Reservations required. Located near theVucciria market, this local favorite offersoutdoor seating. Try the pasta with freshsardines. Dinner for two with wine will

run about 90€.

Antico Caffe’ Spinnato Via Principe di Belmonte, 117

(39) 091 583231

Open daily from 7 a.m. to 1 a.m. Excellent pastries (including delicious cannoli) and ice creams in a pleasant setting on the quiet pedestrian street

near the Teatro Politeama.

1 € = $1.24 at press time

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dream ofITALY

Kathleen A. McCabePublisher and Editor-In-Chief

Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabeEditorial Assistant: Cailin Birch

Shauna MaherDesign: Leaird Designs

www.leaird-designs.com

Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter coveringItalian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year.Delivery by mail is $79 per year in the United Statesand $95 abroad. An Internet subscription (download-able PDF) costs $69 per year. Subscriptions includeonline access to back issues and regular e-mail updates.

Three ways to subscribe:1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496,

Washington, DC, 200162. Call 1-877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-06573. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa

and Mastercard accepted)

Editorial feedback is welcome.E-mail: editor@dreamofitaly.com

Advertising opportunities are available.E-mail: frances@dreamofitaly.com

Copyright © 2005 Dream of Italy, Inc. All RightsReserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per-mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provideinformation that is accurate and reliable; however,Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors thatmay occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com

building somewhatspoiled by 18th century alterations,but distinctive for oldNorman and Spanisharchitectural details.

If there is still time onthis expedition, oneof the big outdoor markets, the Capo—open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. butbetter in the mornings—is just behind;this market is more for shoes andclothing than food but the neighbor-hood is very “characteristic” ofPalermo in days gone by, with lots ofArab influence and some old buildingsthat have seen better days.

As with this neighbor-hood, so it is with the restof Palermo—very muchlike a big jig-saw puzzle.The main commercial district—along the CorsoVittorio Emmanuele andthe Via Roma—is densewith regular stores andbusinesses and—for mostof the day—choked withbus and car traffic. Butjust steps away, the oldhistoric neighborhoodcalled La Kalsa, in the east-ern part of the city, is amuch calmer area, stud-ded with parks—the bestaccess to the Palermowaterfront is from here—historic churches, themajor art gallery in thecity and the center ofPalermo puppetry.

If you take a cab fromyour hotel to La Kalsa, tellthe cabbie to take youto the Giardino Garibaldi.You will get out next to abeautiful large tree-filledsquare, dominated by

massive old banyantrees. The piazza isquiet and perfectfor strolling or sit-ting on a bench andreflecting. Ringingthe piazza are someof the most impres-sive of Palermo’s

old palaces, including the 14th centuryPalazzo Chiaramonte, once the city’s lawcourts (and home of the Inquisition)and now a university building.

A stroll through this neighborhoodtakes you past a large opensquare—Piazza Kalsa—that is

now plantedover but hadbeen completelydestroyed by bombs inWorld War II. You willalso walk by one ofPalermo’s puppet the-aters (the Museo delleMarionette), whichkeeps alive this oldSicilian art form. Themajor Palermo artmuseum—the GalleriaRegionale—is locatedhere as is Il ParcoLetterario Tomasi diLampedusa (actuallyheadquartered in a bar)dedicated to the authorof The Leopard. ThePark has events devot-ed to his work and sellsbooks and memorabiliaas well as coffee.

One of the bombed outchurches in this zone—Santa Maria delloSpasimo—has been con-verted to a jazz school.The apse of the formerchurch is roofless andhas been set up as anopen-air performance

space; classrooms in the building arenamed for jazz greats such as CharlieParker and Thelonious Monk. After pass-ing the charming little 12th centuryArab-Norman church of La Magionewith its palm-lined walkway up to theentrance, you re-enter modern,bustling Palermo emerging onto Via Roma.

Steps away in the other direction is themost famous sprawling outdoor mar-ket, the Vucciria (open daily from 8 a.m.to 8 p.m. and, again, better in themornings), with street after street ofstalls selling all manner of foodstuffs—meats, fish, fruits and vegetables,

household goods, etc.Here, in the small central

piazza, you will see the picturesqueswordfish heads with their longswords pointing skyward and rich, redslabs of fresh tuna as well as hear the

San Giovanni degli Eremiti

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entury B.C. who named the city Ziz.

Where to StayVilla Igiea Grand Hotel

Salita Belmonte, 43 (39) 091 6312111

At the highest end, the Villa Igeia isa 5-star luxurious property set onthe Mediterranean outside the city

center to the west. They run a shut-tle to downtown but you will also

need a taxi to venture into the centerat night. Rates: A double room costs

200€ and a suite runs 473€, pernight, including breakfast.

Hotel Principe di Villafranca Via G.Turrisi Colonna, 4

(39) 091 6118523

Just off the Viale Liberta’ in themodern area of the city, this stylish,comfortable 4-star property offersparking but no hotel restaurant.

Rates: A double starts at 183€ pernight, with breakfast.

Hotel Ai Cavalieri Via Sant’Oliva, 8 (39) 091 583282

Recently opened in the neighborhoodbetween the Teatro Politeama and

the Teatro Massimo is the very nicely furnished 4-star Best Western

Ai Cavalieri. Offers parking. Rates: A double starts at 150€

per night, with breakfast.

continued on page 4

1 € = $1.24 at press time

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Palermo continued from page 3

“To have seen Italy without having seen Sic

merchants chanting in Siciliandialect, pushing their products. Whenyou finally exit the market, you are inthe immediate vicinity of the importantChurch of Santo Domenico, the QuattroCanti, the Church of La Martorana andthe beautiful fountains of PiazzaPretoria.

Similarly, in the new downtown to thewest of the Teatro Politeama, you finda different Palermo, an example ofwhich is the broad, European boule-vard Viale Libertá, with theusual array of exclusiveshops found in all major

world cities nowadays. The operahouse faces a huge piazza with foun-tains and benches—the PiazzaCastelnuovo—and the sidestreets have modern apart-ment buildings interspersedwith older houses, hotels andrestaurants. Yet, by walking only twoblocks from this cosmopolitan district,you will find yourself in a warren ofnarrow streets, shops and restaurants

in a more traditional, self-containedPalermo neighborhood calledBorgonuovo.

No matter how you approach yourvisit to this most unique of cities,Palermo is sure to throw in a few surprises along the way.

—Jim Zurer

Italian travel specialist Jim Zurer runs Zurer Travel: Italian Trip Planning

(www.zurer.com/trip_planning), providing expertadvice on arranging visits to Italy. He travels

there twice a year to keep current on the Italian tourist scene and to find new,

sometimes “off the beaten path” destinations.

ere’s a sampling of five side trips to take whenthe hustle and bustle of Palermo gets toomuch:

• Monreale is an easy sip. FollowCorso Calatafimi five miles out oftown. Stop for views overPalermo and Conca d’OroValley. See King William II’smassive cathedral. Inside,Byzantine mosaics cover the walls andapse.The cloister next door offers apeaceful respite with its small columns,elegant pointed arches and splashing palm-tree fountain.

• Cefalu, one hour from the city by car, train or hydrofoil(during the summer). Stroll the Arabic streets of this fresh-faced fishing port. A mighty cathedral shimmers insidewith Byzantine mosaics. See the lavatoio where womenwashed clothes for centuries.

• Segesta is home to the most beautiful of Sicily’s Greektemples and offers panoramic mind-altering views.Continue 12 miles to Erice, ancient home of Aphrodite,

for charming walks and good cooking.Try the localcouscous and stop at Maria Grammatico’s pastry shop forassagi, free samples of traditional treats.

• Bagheria, a brief train ride away, gives aglimpse of how the Palermitian nobility livedin Baroque country villas. A 10-minute walktakes you to the eccentric Villa Palagonia,

covered with grotesque gargoyles, where you’llhear the story of a hunchback’s revenge.

• Caccamo, 35 miles from Palermo, is an ancient towndominated by a huge Norman castle. See well-preservedrooms with art and armor.There’s a festival of costumedhistoric characters in mid-August. Otherwise wander thevicoli e piazze, making your own discoveries.

—Patti Absher

Patti Absher owns Great Travels

(www.great-travels.com), specializing in customtravel and small group

tours in Italy.

PALERMO’S A BIG DRINKEscape the City for Small Sips of Relaxation and Discovery

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Monreale’s Cathedral

Cefalu’s Cathedral

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cherry tomatoes that explode in yourmouth like Stromboli, for pasta withfennel and sardines. I’m returning simply to do nothing—il dolce farniente, as the Italians say —in a placewhere there are only rocks and sea and

the happy prospect ofyour next meal.

As the sky lightens,the island of Stromboli

comes into view, its whitewashedhouses stacked up by the port. I oncemade the arduous climb up the vol-cano to see it erupt red against theorange sunset, booming down a blacklava slope into the ocean. There aresome things so magnificent they can’tbe repeated, not without beingspoiled—in this case, by the lines oftourists you were too enchanted tonotice the first time. So I don’t disembark.

But I remember Stromboli’scharm, its narrow streets,and its nervous atmos-phere in the shadow of thevolcano. And then there’sthe carnation-coloredhouse, with its plaque com-memorating the placewhere Ingrid Bergman andRoberto Rossellini had anaffair while filmingStromboli. (Previously, AnnaMagnani, who had been living withRossellini and was promised the lead,overturned a bowl of bucatini with redsauce on his head before fleeing withthe crew to another island, Vulcano, tomake an equally forgettable film bythat name).

If there were a plaque somewhere inthe Aeolians to commemorate a loveaffair of my own, it would be onFilicudi, one of the most remote anddesolate islands. There, for 10 days, I stayed with a French professor in awhite house at the top of a steep hill

and activities I’d missed before.“Zampetta, zampetta,” she says, mean-ing: “A little paw here and a little pawthere, and we’ll try everything.” Vabene.

Pulling into the tiny port ofPanarea,we’re met by a golf cart to takeus to our pensione. (On Panarea, even

the police drive golf carts,since no cars are allowed.)We pass square, tradition-al Aeolian houses—magenta bouganvilliaclimbing the white wallsand dripping over thepergolas—with woodendoors as blue as the sea.The air is perfumed witha profusion of flowers—wild pomegranate, purpleacacia, daisies, lilies, Birdsof Paradise. “Da delirio,”said Giovanna. Absolutelydelirious.

We check into our simple room, wan-der along the path to the rocky beach,and come back in time for dinner. Likeits rooms, the food at La Sirena is sim-ple and clean. We have sea urchinpasta with parsley and tomatoes, and“mille gusti” spaghetti, with all flavorsof the island represented in the dish.

In the morning, at exactly the sametime (Italians have a strict senseof the order of a day), every-

one on theisland finishestheir coffee andgoes to the beach.With only a fewsquare feet of sand,the beachgoers, main-ly Italians, spread outon the rocks, wading

waist-deep in the water with their cellphones. To avoid the weekend crowds,we take a steep footpath to a farther

Aeolian Islands continued from page 1

overlooking the port and theother craggy islands beyond. We didnothing but read, swim, make love,and decide where we wanted to eatthat day. I always voted for Villa LaRosa, for the pasta of wild fennelfronds and sardines, which tastedexactly like the island’s aromatic seabreeze. As with Stromboli, Filicudi wasa place where I couldnever return, for fear ofspoiling the memory ofthose magical days.

That still leaves five otherislands to explore, though,each with a unique person-ality. Panarea, small andprecious, attracts chicItalians and honeymoon-ers, but is all tranquillity inthe off-season. Lipari is thelargest and most industri-alized island, with a fasci-

nating museumfilled with relics from all theships that have sunk in theseviolent seas since before thefirst Greek settlers arrived.Salina is sleepy and agricul-tural, covered with vineyardsthat bear grapes for theregion’s distinctive Malvasiawine. Vulcano, the islandclosest to Sicily, is heavilytouristed on its hot-bubbling

shores, but up the mountain’s uplandsare home to pastures that yield some ofthe world’s best ricottacheese. Small, outlyingAlicudi has no cars, fewtourist facilities, really,nothing at all.

I’ve come to the islandsthis time with myItalian friend Giovanna,a Giulietta Messina look-alike, with thesame impish flair. Giovanna isn’t con-tent to far niente on the islands, butwanted to explore all the tastes, sights

ily is not to have seen Italy at all.” —Goethe

Panarea

Hotel

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Panarea

Hotel

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beach, and swim in a magnificentblue cove —until I am stung,painfully, by a jellyfish. On closerlook, the place was infested withthe little monsters —medusas—which make swimming like strollingthrough a minefield. These islands, Iam reminded, are full of discomfortsand mild dangers.

On Panarea, we do everything but farniente: We climb the mountain untilour trail gets lost in the sticker bushes.We hide on a deserted beach and goskinny-dipping. We eat pizza from awonderful panificio for lunch, scout forjellyfish at the beach, and stop by LaSirena to try to pry away the recipe for“mille gusti,” but end up with some ofthe owner’s salt-cured capers instead,as consolation. That evening, as we sipProsecco on our terrace at the cool,white Hotel Raya, the morning seemslike a distant memory. We watchStromboli in the distance, smoking likean Italian, a pack a day.

On our last night, we eat dinner at DaPina, with its lemon-painted blueceramic tables outdoors. We try filletsof eggplant rolled with olives andcapers, and the lightest eggplant gnoc-

chi imaginable. Then I am introducedto totani, a large, yet perfectly tender

squid-like creature, this one stuffedwith grilled radicchio. If I had to bestung by a jellyfish every time I ate

totani, I’d call it a fair deal. We finishup with a soothing rosemary liquore,inhaling the island’s nighttime aromas.

Lipari is an hour—and a world—awayby hydrofoil. The islanders considerLipari “town”—not another island,and by local standards it’s as busy asMilan. With its 10,000 inhabitants,pumice mining and fishing fleet, Lipariis the center of Aeolian industry—andwith its castle and archeology muse-um, it’s the center of culture, too. Somepeople will tell you Lipari has the bestrestaurants in the islands, butGiovanna and I decide they are just themost formal. Like everything aboutLipari, much of the food is overworkedand industrial.

But Lipari is well worth visiting, for itsuntouristy streets and its remarkablecastle. There, we spend anafternoon contemplating acollection of Greek terra cottatheatrical masks, with a vast array ofhuman characters—there’s the chatter-box, the gossip, the flatterer, the crotch-ety old man; there are characters fromGreek plays lost to time except for theirfaces, full of unspoken expression.

Eventually, we find some small,authentic restaurants on the island. At Ristorante La Nassa, we have anexquisite caponata in which the flavorsare distinct, playing off each otherrather than homogenized. RistoranteNenzyna is smaller and simpler, andthe dishes are traditional fish in olives,capers, basil and onion; a fish stewmade with tomatoes, capers, and driedbread. Giovanna and I agree we’d behappy eating at that little restaurantevery day of our lives.

Yet for all those good meals, a corner ofmy hunger remains unsatisfied. Ihaven’t tasted pasta with fennel frondsand sardines yet. Nor will I find thedish I want on Lipari. For that, wehave to go to Filicudi.

As we check the hydrofoil schedulesfor the next day, I am reluctant toreturn to Filicudi for fear of spoilingthe bittersweet memory of my firstvisit there. But I am more afraid that I

would never taste that fennel pastaat Villa La Rosa again.

To my relief, nothing haschanged on Filicudi—its rocky

beaches and hills terraced with ancientstone walls are still there. After a quickcoffee at the port restaurant, we hireGiovannino and his blue and white boatfor a tour around the island. As some-one who makes his living from foreigntourists, but would rather not, he ishappy to speak Italian and regale uswith stories. Although Giovanna has tokeep translating his dialect into myschoolgirl Italian. He tells us he wasborn on the island, pointing to a lime-stone ruin by the beach, “in thathouse.”

After World War II, when most inhabi-tants emigrated to Australia, he wasone of only sixty souls left; now thereare 240 residents. As we circle therocky island for an hour, he tells us

6

Aeolian Islands continued from page 5

Three images of LipariItalian Government Tourism Board

“We watch Stromboli in the

Guy de Maupassant called the Aeolian Islands

how they survived by catchinglobster for Christmas in Naples,and by growing capers, hikingall over the steep hills to collectthem. He describes the mafiosiwho were interned on theisland in the 1970s, and theshipwrecks he’d seen over theyears. Life on these dry, remoteislands has always been tough.

After the boat ride, Giovannaand I hike the steep path cut-ting up the side of the hill, toVilla La Rosa perched above.“Magnifico,” Giovanna says, when wepause to catch our breath and stare outat the sea. Finally at the villa, we sit ata cool table on the airy, colorful terrace.The waiter warns us they have onlytwo pasta dishes that day. One withalmonds. I hold my breath. And mac-cheroncini ai finocchetto. “It’s made fromthe wild fennel growing around here,”the waiter explains. Ahh.

The aroma arrives first, the sardines ofthe sea mixed with the fennel fronds ofthe island. With the plate in front ofme, I pause, my desire mixed with afear of disappointment. But the pasta isperfectly al dente, with grated breadcrumbs on top and a few raisins peek-ing out. The fennel fronds and sardineshave a wild, simple taste that satisfiesme to the soul. I am in the very restau-rant where I realized my affair with theFrenchman would come to an end,but no trace of sadness lingers. Iam back with the fennel pasta,with a friend, and I am utterlycontent. “That is your pasta,” saysGiovanna, refusing more than onebite. She looks around. “And this isyour island.” She herself would pickPanarea.

After the pasta comes grilled totani,stuffed with breadcrumbs. Thereshould be a plaque up at Villa La Rosa,for the best lunch I’ve ever eaten.

We leave that evening, but onthe way to the boat I notice asign for another restaurant, LaSirena, which boasts that it’sMichelin-rated. How could Ihave missed it? Giovanna urgesme to ask a man on the boat,who looks like he knows how toeat, about the restaurant. “Si,mangia benissimo,” he tells me.“You eat very, very well there.Tell the chef that Sergio sentyou,” he says. “Va bene,” I say.Grazie. Maybe next time, if I everreturn.

Giovanna leaves for home the nextday. I can’t help it. I have to go back toFilicudi to try that restaurant. I gostraight to Pecorini a Mare, the fishingvillage, and take a modest room at LaSirena, overlooking the fishing boatspulled up onto the beach. In theevening, a Monday night in off-season,I am the only diner at the restaurant. Imention the bit about Sergio to thewaiter, who couldn’t care less butbrings me some raw swordfish—inolive oil, pepper and lemon—that ispractically still jumping.

Then comes a light pasta withalmonds, cherry tomatoes, and garlic.Finally a piece of tuna, with tomatoesand capers, served on a plate decorat-ed with flowers. I am self-conscious,eating alone, but one by one severalislanders join me, helping me drain mypitcher of white wine—the guy whorents the fishing boats, his nephew, theproprietress, and finally, the chefsthemselves.

I rent a kayak the next day, and headback to the blue grottoes, carefullynavigating in that jellyfish soup. Thereis no one in sight. Occasionally, onsome invisible cue, 2,000 tiny, sliveryfish arc in the air. I paddle to an emptybeach for a swim, then, hungry, makemy way back to La Sirena.

7

distance, smoking like an Italian, a pack a day.”

“little bits of paradise lost in the sea of the sky.”continued on page 8

The DetailsStromboli

WHERE TO EAT:

Punta Lena Via Marina, 8

(39) 090 986204

Chef Stefano Oliva is passionate about hissuper-fresh fish dishes–sardines, octopus

salad, spaghetti with mussels and clams–alloverlooking the sea from which they recently

came. Open from April to October.

Da Luciano Via Roma, 15

(39) 090 986088

Uphill from the port, Da Luciana is a casualpizzeria (the owner is Napolitano, so the

pizza is great) with traditional pastas and a great view.

The DetailsFilicudi

WHERE TO EAT:

Villa La RosaVia Rosa, 24

(39) 090 9889965

A restaurant and pensione (and disco in thehigh season), Villa La Rosa specializes in

simple Sicilian cuisine–grilled swordfish withlemon leaves, fennel fronds and sardine pasta,

pasta with eggplant and fresh ricotta. Closed in November.

La Sirena Pecorini Filicudi

(39) 090 9889997

A seaside restaurant with a few rooms torent, La Sirena has an extraordinary restau-

rant for such an out-of-the-way location.Using only fresh, local, and traditional ingre-dients–almonds, pistachios, citrus, swordfish,tuna, capers–the chef creates marinated raw

fish dishes, tuna sausage with onion chutney,gnocchi with pistachio and more traditionalAeolian dishes. Closed the first two weeks ofNovember and December 15 to January 15.

world,” he protests. “The signoraasked, and I told her. What do youwant me to say? That it was a schifezza(disgusting)?”

The waiter—actually the owner andhead chef, Antonio Pellegrino—relatesthis outrageous story to the cooks. Onetries to calm him, arguing that perhapsthe signora could have just a littletaste. “Perché no?” I say, offering myvast appreciation and whatever thedish costs, but he waves me away. NoAmerican tourist is getting swordfisheggs, apparently, no matter how muchcharm she is slathering on in Italian.

8

An islander is finishing his pasta whenI come down for lunch, a beatific smileon his face. “Buon giorno,” I say. “Whatdid you eat?”

“Spaghetti with swordfish eggs, and itwas divine.”

I tell the waiter, “I’ll have what hehad.”

The waiter, suddenly enraged, argueswith the islander. “How could you tellher you ate something special likethat?”

“It was the most innocent thing in the

Aeolian Islands continued from page 7

After the scene, the islander looks atme and shrugs. “He’s cracked, but thefood here is great,” he says.

I eat a pasta with finnochetto and sar-dines instead, this one with cherrytomatoes. It might be divine, but I amtoo busy thinking about the swordfisheggs to know for sure.

After lunch, Antonio is cheerful again,and we chat. I remember what a friendhad told me, that the islands’ cooks arefiercely independent and will onlycook well for you if they like andrespect you. So I tell him about thetime I was bitten by a moray eel on

Climb Stromboli. The climb to the top of the active vol-cano is a magnificent sight, particularly at dusk. From a safevantage point, you can watch the volcano shoot sparks andlava, hitting the sea with a mighty boom. Hire a guide fromone of many agencies at the port.

Taste Malvasia. A golden sweet, amber-colored dessertwine, malvasia is the traditional after-dinner drink in theAeolians.Thought to be planted in the 16th century,Malvasia is having a renaissance on Salina.

Buy capers. The unruly pink caper plant grows everywhere in theisland, tumbling down rock walls, and by the side of the road.Preserved in salt, these little buds are intense culinary gems, littlemorsels of pure island flavor – nothing like what you might findpacked in vinegar at the grocery store.

Visit the Castello on Lipari. Built on a promontory to ward offsuccessive waves of pirates and intruders, the Castello sheltersevidence of all the cultures that have overtaken this strategicisland since the Bronze Age.The fine volcanic ash carried by thewinds have preserved stratified layers of ruins, from the MiddleNeolithic period up to a Norman monastery destroyed in 1544by a Tunisian blackbeard.

The museum – with its separate hall of vulcanology –has an extraordinary collection of Neolithic pottery and

obsidian (volcanic glass), the sharpest material known toman at the time.There are amphora piled upon amphorafrom sunken ships, but the biggest treats are the delicatepots decorated with Dionysean scenes from the 3rd cen-tury B.C. by the Lipari painter, and little terra cotta the-atrical masks and statues representing characters inGreek plays.

Hire a boat. The best way to see the inaccessible parts of theislands are to hire boats, especially on the smaller islands.Askaround at the smaller ports for a fishing boat or kayak.

Dolce far niente. By far the bestactivity in the Aeolians is dolce farniente – the sweetness of doing noth-ing.With little activity on the farislands, particularly Filicudi and Alicudi,there’s nothing to do but swim, hikearound the islands, and contemplateyour next meal.

By far the best activity in the Aeolians is dolce far niente – the sweetness of doing nothing.

“Without Sicily, Italy leaves no image in the

WHAT TO DO IN THE AEOLIANS

9

The DetailsLipariWHERE TO EAT:

La Nassa Via G. Franza

(39) 090-9811319www.lanassa.it

Sweet and sour fish, black squid ink risotto,caponata: Traditional island dishes with a

refined twist; the best restaurant we tried inLipari–but others say it depends on who’s

cooking that day. Also has a pensione. Openlate March through early November.

Da FilippinoPiazza Municipio

090 9811002 www.filippino.it/new/eng/index.asp

This restaurant has been the most famous inLipari since 1910, and certainly the most for-

mal and expensive. Closed mid-Novemberthrough mid-December. Open 7 days a weekfrom June to September. With its more casual

daughter restaurant, E Pulera (Via Diana,090 9811158), they form a little culinary

empire on Lipari. A bit citified and industrial,by far the best things we ate at either restau-

rant were the simple island apricots presentedafter dessert at E Pulera. E Pulera is open

from June to October; closed for lunch.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotel Oriente Via Guglielmo Marconi, 35

(39) 090 9811493 www.hotelorientelipari.com

This quirky, oriental-themed hotel has acharming garden and friendly, impeccable

service. Rates: A double room ranges from 60to 130€ per night, depending on the season.

Villa Meligunis Via Marte, 7

(39) 090 9812426 www.netnet.it/villameligunis/

Lipari’s most posh, 4-star hotel has a spectacular rooftop bar and restaurant, but

the place has a businessman’s ambiance, andcanned fruit and Nescafe at breakfast. Rates: A double room, with breakfast,

ranges from 113 to 130€ per night.

The DetailsPanarea

WHERE TO EAT:

Da Pina Via S. Pietro • (39) 090 983032

www.dapina.com

Chef Giovanna Campisi uses the traditionalflavors of the islands–capers, herbs, cherry

tomatoes–in an updated cuisine. Da Pina hasits own fishing boat and herb garden on the

island. In the winter, when the island emptiesout, Campisi makes her own marmalades,oils, and rosemary and fennel liquors. Therestaurant, which is open year round, alsohas a small pensione (40€ per night), byreservation only during winter months.

Da Paolino Via Iditella, 75 • (39) 090 983008

A 30-year-old restaurant, Da Paolino special-izes in seafood. The motto is “It gives us

pleasure to tell you that we’ll never change,”and the place is full of locals, some of whom,

says Paolino, can tell whether a dish wasmade by him or his wife. Reservations

recommended.

La Sirena Via Drauth, 4 • (39) 090 983012

A simple outdoor restaurant with typicalpasta dishes that has been run by the same

family for 40 years. The mille gusti pasta hasall the savory herbs on the island. Buy someof the best wild capers here. La Sirena’s pen-

sione starts at 35€ per person, per night.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotel Raya Via S. Pietro • (39) 090 983013

www.hotelraya.it

With its cool blue and white tiles, perfectsimplicity, all-organic breakfasts, and

magnificent views of the ragged rocks in the sea, it’s easy to see why the Raya is a

fashionista favorite. The rooms are terracedup a hill with luxurious gardens; the

reception, bar, restaurant and disco are 400 meters down the hill. Rates: A doubleroom with breakfast costs 192 to 440€ per

night, depending on the season.

Filicudi, almost losing a finger. I showhim the scar, and he warms up to me.Everyone on the island has heard sto-ries about someone losing a finger to amoray eel, but for an American touristto be bitten on a short visit is spectacu-larly bad luck.

“The next time I encountered a morayeel,” I tell him, “I ate him.” Grilled.Antonio appreciates that act of culi-nary revenge, and approves of mymethod. Piero, the chef, sidles by andoffers that he was once so mad at thejellyfish for biting him that he wokkedthem — but alas, they had no tastewhatsoever.

I give Piero and Antonio my profusethanks for the meal, compliment thefood, the weather, the island, andItalians in general, and tell them I’ll beback. Piero kisses me on both cheeks,which is a good sign.

The Aeolians are a difficult place to getto, and a difficult place to be. But I willindeed return to Filicudi. I’ll eat at LaSirena every day, until they insist I trythe spaghetti with fresh swordfisheggs, until they want me to eat it asmuch as I do. And then I may just stay,doing nothing all day but deciding:Villa La Rosa? or La Sirena?

Visit the Dream of Italy Blog (dreamofitaly.blogspot.com) for more information on visitingthe Aeolians.

—Laura Fraser

Laura Fraser is the author of the memoir/travelogue,An Italian Affair (Random House, 2001).

soul. Sicily is the key to everything.” —Goethe

10

The U.S. Naval Air Station Sigonella, near Cata

ignora Maria La Rocca swungthe car out into traffic, onehand on the horn announcing

her imminent arrival at every inter-section. She received a call, put it onspeaker phone, and shouted to theman on the other end, all the whileweaving her car’s steering wheel

tightly like someone in a car chase.Suddenly the signora, who was wear-ing big dark sunglasses, wouldinterject and point out a land-mark as we passed. Though inher mid-70s, I was quite surethat her reaction speed wasbetter than my own as shedownshifted, passed a pokey BMWand swerved back into her lane beforeoncoming traffic had a chance to flicktheir lights.

Signora La Rocca had agreed to meetme at her house in Catania and give mea lift out to her agrituris-mo nine miles away—Casa dello Scirocco, namedafter the hot Africanwind that carries rainand misplaced desertover Sicily. We crossed ariver and she interruptedanother business call topoint out a river to me,“Fiume Simeto, the biggestin Sicily.”

She hung up and startedpointing at trees: “Olive,”she said, “palm, eucalyp-

tus.” Moments later, aswe passed a field, Iasked her what kind offlowers they were.“Those? Just dumbweeds,” she said. Thedumb weeds turned thevast expanses of the

plains into undulating seas of gold.

We arrived at the edge of the smalltown of Lentini and turned into along narrow, tree-filled canyon. Justpast the gate I could see the mainhall with the dining room and

kitchen. To my right were a couple ofhorses grazing in a small corral. La Signora was out of the car andhalfway up the walk before I couldeven get my seatbelt undone.

Signora La Rocca treads the earth likesomeone on a race against the clock. It

seemed quite un-ItalianI thought. As she lit acigarette, she listed offsome of the places shehas lived: SouthAmerica, Fort Lauder-dale, China. She speaksbits and pieces of avariety of languages,but avoids speakingEnglish as it is a bitrusty and she has nopatience for her tongueto come up with theright word. The signorais a mover and a shaker

if there ever was one,and anyone who doubtsneed only hear the storyof her property. Thatday, she took me and asmall group of her Swissfriends around and toldus how it all came into

being before stunning us with theday’s menu.

She had inherited the land from theuncle of her ex-husband. It was a sur-prise to her, but the uncle had neverliked his nephew and bequeathingwhat was a failing orange grove to LaRocca was perhaps a gesture of disdaintoward him. But the inheritance wasless orange and more lemon; the landhad debts on it that exceeded its value.One day La Rocca was out walking the48 acres, quite unsure what to do withit when she happened upon a hole inthe ground. A deep hole. Her curiosityinspired her to dig. When she found astone wall, she got excited. La Roccawould spend the next two years—often by herself with just a shovel—excavating to find a Roman structurebuilt into a pre-historic grotto andburied in the shallow canyon.

She did her research and little by littlethe story had emerged. Baron FuccioCorbino had discovered it before herand converted it into his own little villain the 18th century. It included a smallRoman/Turkish bath and a system ofsmall channels running through everyroom carrying spring water. The sys-tem kept the rooms cool in the summerand the Baron was quite fond of thesound of running water. Upon hisdeath, his family discovered the place.

Mistaking it for a “house of sin” theybrought in sand from outside to burywhat they believed was sure to be an

SDown the Rabbit Hole: An

One day La Rocca was out walking the 48 acres,quite unsure what to do with it, when she hap-pened upon a hole in the ground. A deep hole.Her curiosity inspired her to dig.

11

ania, is the last American military base in Sicily.

embarrassment to them. And there itlay hidden and preserved until 1992,when the then sixtyish Signora rolledup her sleeves and grabbed a shovel.Since then she has decorated it withoriental carpets, curtains and sofaspopular from Corbino’s time period. A fountain bubbles inside the gardenwalls out front and thewalkway shaded bytrees seems a corridorto another world.

Guests have the choiceof staying in smallbungalows, a newmulti-unit structurewith lofts, or some small caves thathave been fashioned into cozy sleepingquarters. One grotto has been convert-ed into a small museum dedicated tothe life of the peasant farmer. Insideare the sleeping and cooking areas asthey were in yesteryear and a collec-tion of artifacts from a day not too farin Sicily’s past. The soot of cookingfires still stains the rock surface above.

My feet kicked up a bit of dust as Iwalked along the dirt road that curvedthrough the orange grove back towardthe dining room; above us on the lowridge, prickly pear cacti and fig treeswere just blossoming. A couple of horses looked up at the roadsidefrom where they were grazingand then ignored me. I passedthe chicken coop. It was a cavecarved out of the wall of thecanyon with a fence enclosing the areain front of it. I paused and lookeddown to see what the hens were beingfed. The ground was scattered withleftover pasta. “No doubt about it,” I thought. “They’re Italian.”

Now we were about to start the part ofthe tour, which I had been eagerly

awaiting. Italian cooking is famous theworld over, but Sicilian cuisine, ifSignora La Rocca has anything to sayabout it, is the best.

We ate lunch in a large dining roomwith dark wood ceilings. Two wallswere plate glass windows looking out

into sunlit gardensand fruit groveswhere much of themeal had recentlybeen picked. “There isno menu,” Signora LaRocca warned us. “Westart with a heap ofantipasti.”

The waitress wheeled out a cart andbegan to fill every available squareinch of the table with plates. We duginto bruschetta with eggplant andsesame; goat cheese with oil and spicypepper; local olives; an onion andtomato-filled pastry; deep-fried onions;caponata; arancini; a tortino di carne, ameatball wrapped in eggplant stripswith onion, cheese and tomato saucetopped with a couple of basil leavesalmost too beautiful to put a fork into.Almost. In between mouthfuls wedrank the hearty red wine produced inhouse. Il primo piatto was Sicilian pizza.

“You won’t find this in most pizzerias inSicily, but this is the authentic Sicilianpizza.” It resembled a large calzonebut the pastry was very light, flaky

and deep-fried. Inside was goat cheeseand just a trace of anchovy. Just when Ithought perhaps I had reached my limit,the second plate was rolled out. Tendergrilled beef strips with fresh rosemaryand basil, alongside fried potatoes flavored with the same. We finished theplate with a light salad of fresh greens,red cabbage, corn and grapefruit fromthe trees outside the window.

Dessert was homemade almond icecream with a sweet almond sauce anda twirl of chocolate. A meal at therestaurant, either lunch or dinner, costs 22€. But for guests it is only asupplement of about 15€ for one meal,30€ for two—though I can’t imagineeating twice like that in one day.

—Kevin Revolinski

Kevin Revolinski wrote about a Greek-speaking area of Calabria in the July/August

2004 issue of Dream of Italy.

Accidental Agriturismo

The DetailsCasa dello Scirocco

Contrada Piscitello, Carlentini (39) 095 447-709 or (39) 338-172-0112

www.casadelloscirocco.it

Tucked into a narrow canyon, Casa delloScirocco offers the dual benefits of beingquiet and secluded without being far offthe tourist path.There are three styles

of accommodations: six rooms in a one-story, L-shaped building with a walledcourtyard (il baglio), all doubles with

private bath and TV and extra beds forlarger groups. Five cottages are available,

each with a private bathroom and asmall refrigerator and hotplate. Some

have fireplaces as well as televisions.Andperhaps most unusual are the grotto

rooms carved into the surrounding rock.There are bikes for rent, a corral for

horseback riding and a swimming poolshaded by eucalyptus trees. Casa delloScirocco also offers a five-day cookingcourse for 500€ per person with a

minimum of 10 people.

Rates: A night at Scirocco starts at 38€,per person, including breakfast.

For children ages 2 to 8, there is a 50%discount, and a discount of 25% for

8 to 12 year olds. Cribs are available.

1 € = $1.24 at press time

ll of the towns and islandsfeatured in this issue are

indicated on the map. We’vealso highlighted some of ourother favorite towns in Sicily:Agrigento

Agrigento reveals the influence ofGreek civilization in Sicily. In theValle dei Templi, the Valley of theTemples, located several miles from

the city proper,the ruins ofnumerous tem-ples, necropolises,amphitheaters,even houses andstreets can still be

found. One of the best preserved is theTemple of Concord, built around 440B.C., which is a breathtaking sightwhen illuminated at night.

Caltagirone

Situated on a hill facing the valley ofthe same name, Caltagirone is a charm-ing medieval town rich with beautifulcathedrals, villas, museums and festi-vals. Since the time of the ancientGreeks, Caltagirone has been famousfor its artisan production of ceramics,which are displayed in the annual Juneartisan’s market. Intricately decoratedtiles of blue, green and yellow coverthe city and its notable sites, includingthe Duomo and the Church of SanGiacomo. Particularly famous is thestunning Scalinata di Santa Maria delMonte, the Staircase of the Church ofSaint Mary of the Mountain, covered

entirely with thesemulticoloredglazed tiles anddecorated withflowers and color-ful oil lamps dur-ing town festivals.

A

12

Sicily is about the size of Vermont.

Giardini Naxos

Giardini Naxos, located just a fewmiles south of Taormina, is the site ofthe first Greek colony in Sicily, found-ed in 735 B.C. See the remnants of thiscolony in the Archaeological Museumin Capo Schisò and the adjoiningArchaeological Park. Giardini Naxos

stretches along thetranquil bay betweenCapo Schisò andCapo Taormina. ItsMediterranean vege-tation and crystal-clear, sparkling bluewaters make its

beaches some of the most beautiful ofeastern Sicily. After a long morning oflying on the beach, enjoy a memorablelunch at La Cambusa, which offers aspectacular view of the sea, as well asdelicious, flavorful pizzas. (Via Schisò,3; 39 094 251437)

Siracusa

One of Italy’s most fascinating cities,Siracusa seems to be undergoing arebirth. While the city has always beenworth visiting for impressive archaeo-logical findings, including the stunningGreek theater, Archaeological Park ofNecropolis and Paolo Orsi ArchaeologicalMuseum, further ruins and monumentshave opened to the public in the last

MESSINA

Taormina

CATANIA

SIRACUSACaltagirone

AGRIGENTO

PALERMOBagheria Cefalu

Stromboli

PanareaSalina

LipariVulcano

Filicudi

Alicudi

MonrealeCaccamo

Erice

Segesta

Lentini

Etna

A Sicily Guide

Giardini Naxos

For more on Sicily, see these articlesin previous issues of Dream of Italy:

The Dream Interview with Author Theresa Maggio,September/October 2002

Waking the Giant:A Visit to Mount Etna,January/February 2003

Sicily’s Private Homes Turned Charming Accommodations &Sicilian Wines Emerge from the Shadows, July/August 2003

Ports of Call…Taormina, September/October 2003

Italian Mafia Towns: Name Change or Trademark?,February 2004

year. Castello Maniace, a 13th centuryfortification built when Frederick IIruled Sicily, is worth a visit. Alsonewly opened—a mikvah, or ritualJewish bath, probably dating to the15th century, before Jews were expelledfrom the city. Thefascinating islanddistrict of Ortygia,Siracusa’s oldestneighborhood, isnow linked to theseafront by arecently opened tunnel that was used as an air-raid shelter duringWorld War II.

—Cailin Birch and Kathy McCabe

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