Overview of Tex Finishes

7/28/2019 Overview of Tex Finishes

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ContentsGARMENT FINISHING .................................................................................................................................... 2

METHOD OF APPLICATION ............................................................................................................................ 3

Dip process: -............................................................................................................................................. 3

Tumble method: - ..................................................................................................................................... 3

Finishes Applied on Garments ...................................................................................................................... 4

1. SPOTTING .............................................................................................................................................. 4

2. WASHING .............................................................................................................................................. 5

3.DRY CLEANING ....................................................................................................................................... 8

4. PRESSING ............................................................................................................................................... 9

5. DENIM WASHING ............................................................................................................................ 12

CHEMICAL WASHES ............................................................................................................................. 12

MECHANICAL WASHES ........................................................................................................................ 13

6. PACKAGING ..................................................................................................................................... 14

7. Folding ............................................................................................................................................. 16

Bibliography ................................................................................................................................................ 18


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GARMENT FINISHING

Unless any product is characterized by value addition it is now impossible to survive in

this highly competitive world market. Processing is important to make a usable but

finishing gives value addition to it. It makes garments attractive, comfortable & finishing

can incorporate desirable properties. Finishing is the heart of textile processing.

Value addition = {(Technology) + (Innovation)} x Quality.

Past are the days of traditional and conventional fabrics, which are super fed by fabrics

with multi-functional finishes. Indeed, days are now of research and development of a

huge spectrum of various advancements in fabric finishes in order to project world class

fabric in the world class market at the most competitive rates .a range of new fabric

finishes need to developed and manufactured which will give an innovative edge to the

textile sector in various applications.

In addition to the specialty we are unique for certain special application and moreemphasis should be laid on the derivation of various textile finishes with numerous

features and characteristics which should be merge for multifold applications to create

all in one universal application.

Set against following background the driving forces for change in finishing of fabric havebeen considered to be the need for competitive strategy that utilizes;

Chemical compatibility to provide one-shot multifunctional finishes.

Cost reduction through process integration and minimizing the consumption of allutilities.

More environmentally friendly and application method.

Cost reduction through minimization of effluent treatment cost.

Improve process control, monitoring and automation.

Greater innovation in chemical finishes.

Quick response through right-first-time, right-on end time, right-every-time finishing.

Finishing of textile fabric is carried out to increase attractiveness and/or serviceabilityof the fabric.


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METHOD OF APPLICATION

There are two methods of garment finishing.

Dip process.

Tumbling process.

Dip process: -

Dip the garment inside out in finishing chemical keeping MLR 1:5. Washing machinemay be used.

Rotate the garment for 20 min.

Hydro extract the garment to 70 to 80% pick up.

Tumble dry at 70 0 C to moisture content 1012 %.

Turn the garment right side out.

Iron/steam press the garment to set the creases at desired places.

Cure at 150160 0 C.

Tumble method: -

In this process the garment are placed (inside out) into a machine with sealed (not

perforated) cylinder and application of recipe by either pumping or spraying. The drum

is turned for 20 min there should not be excessive dripping of chemicals from the

garment. If so more tumbling time is allowed. This method is being used more and more

due to the fact that there is no wastage of chemicals. After saturation the garments are

hydro extracted tumble dry at 70 0 C to 1020 % pick up moisture content. The iron

and steam press the garments to remove/set creases. Cure at 150-160 0 C for 8-10

min.

Important features: -

MLR should not be less than 1: 0.85 for the garment weighing 600 gm and 1:1 forthose weighing more than 600 gm.

Minimum time of tumbling should be 20 min.

Tumble rotation speed 2030 rpm.

Tumble drying temp. Should not be more than 70 0 C.

Moisture retention after drying should be 1012%.


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Finishes Applied on Garments

1. SPOTTING2. WASHING3. DRY CLEANING

4. PRESSING/IRONING5. DENIM WASHES6. PACKAGING7. FOLDING8. Etc.

1. SPOTTING

What is a Spot.?

A spot is a discoloration that can be clearly distinguished from the surface, material, or

medium it is found upon. Spots are caused by the chemical or physical interaction of

two dissimilar materials.

TYPES OF STAINS

1. Protein Based Stains2. Oil based stains Stains3. Tannin Stains4. Dye Stains5. Combination Stains

How to identify a stain?

Stains can be identified by their

a) Color: Every stain has a specific color. For example, curry/pickle stains are yellow

while coffee/tea stains are brown, grass stain is green, etc.

b) Smell: Some stains have a peculiar smell, eg, stains of egg or paint, by which they

can be recognized.

c) Feel: Some stains also change the feel of the fabric and can be recognized on thatbasis. For example paint makes the fabric stiff to touch whereas Lipstick or shoe polish

makes the fabric feel slippery.


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Stain Removal

A stain is an unwanted mark of discolouration on a fabric caused due to contact withanother substance, which can not be removed by the normal washing process andrequires special treatment.

Stains ,which are specific substances spilled on the fabric as opposed to generalsoiling through use , should be treated as soon as possible.

Before washing garments, the stains should be removed from them.You may get a curry or pickle stain on your shirt while eating or an ink stain whilewriting or a paint stain if you accidentally come in contact with a newly painted door.Such marks are called stains and if allowed to stay for long they make the clotheslook ugly.

The basic principle of successful stain removal is not allowing the stain to becomeset. Since a fresh stain dissolves easily, care should be taken to remove it at the firstopportunity. Different fibres and different types of stains require different type of stainremoving. Use of incorrect stain removing agent can spoil a fabric. Identifying the

stain is very helpful in the selection of appropriate stain removing agent and method.

Spot Treatment Technique (Sponging) for Apparel Fabrics

A spot treatment confines the stain to a small area and keeps it from spreading. This

method is sometimes called "sponging." For spot treatment you need a supply of

absorbent material such as, clean rags or paper towels, and a drycleaning solvent, spot

remover, or aerosol pretreatment spray.

Follow these steps:

1. Pad the working surface with clean rags or paper towels that can be stained asyou work.

2. Place the stained area or spot the garment face-down over the padded surface.3. Dampen a small white cloth with solvent.4. Use the dampened cloth to pat the stain from the wrong side. Feather the edges

of the stain working from the outside toward the center to keep the stained areafrom getting larger.

5. As the stain transfers to the absorbent material beneath, move it to a differentplace on the absorbent material so the stain has a clean place to exit into.

6. Repeat this procedure until all traces of stain are gone. Launder to remove anyring that might be left by the solvent.

2. WASHING

Washing is generally used to remove all the spots and stains from the fabrics & garments.

Washing can affect the hand (feel) of the fabric by addition of softener.

Washing can also provide pre-shrink treatment.


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Special effects, such as weathering, stone washing, acid washing, distressing, etc. can also be

produced.

PRINCIPLE OF WASHING

Periodic mechanical forces are exerted on the fibers. This causes tiny flows in and out of the

pores in the fibers.Soap is drawn through the outer layer of the fiber, reaching the dirt through

Diffusion.

There is a convection flow through the fiber with moving layers of soap molecules along the

pore walls that loosen the dirt particles from within the fiber.

CLASSIFICATION OF WASHES

1. Dry Cleaning2. Wet Cleaning3. Professional Laundering4. Home Laundering

Types of Washing Machine

1. Semiautomatic2. Fully Automatic3. Fuzzy Control

4. Manual

or

1. Front Loading2. Top Loading

The main difference between a top loading and front loading washing machine is how

the clothes are placed inside.

The Semi Automatic washing machines are always top loading machines whereas the

Fully Automatic machines are categorized into two types - Top Loading and Front-

loading washing machines.

Washing Equipment

1. COMMERCIAL WASHING MACHINE


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A commercial washing machine is typically intended for more frequent and long-termusage.Most commercial washers have a very sharp-edged square appearance,often with completely stainless steel exteriors to minimize rust and corrosion in aconstantly moist environment.They are built with large easy-to-open service covers.

1. INDUSTRIAL WASHING MACHINESAn industrial clothes washer extends from the commercial washer to includeextremely large capacities, severe-abuse textiles cleaning and processing, andautomated robotic assembly-line systems.These can be used to batch process up to 300 pounds of textiles at once, and canbe used for extremely machine-abusive washing tasks such as stone washing orfabric bleaching and dyeing.

2. TUNNEL WASHERA tunnel washer, also called a continuous batch washer, is a computerized industriallaundry machine designed specifically to handle heavy loads.The device consists of a long metal tube called a tunnel.A huge metal spiral called an archimedes screw runs down the center of the tunnel,dividing it into sections called "pockets".As the screw rotates, laundry can movethrough the washer in one direction while water and chemicals are forced through inthe other.

3. INDUSTRIAL DRYING TUMBLER

4. HYDRO EXTRACTORS

OTHER WASHING EQUIPMENT

1. JIGGER MACHINE2. PADDING MANGLE3. ROPE WASHER MACHINE4. CONTINUOUS OPEN WIDTH WASHING MACHINE


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3.DRY CLEANING

It is a cleaning process for clothing and textiles using an organic solvent rather than

water. Perchloromethylene , the cleaning fluid used by most dry cleaners, is the most

effective cleaner. Solvent must be distilled to remove greases, oils, waxes and dyes.

Advantages

It helps to return garments to a "like-new" condition using precautions to prevent

shrinkage, loss of color, and fabric distortion.

It can be efficiently reused and recycled.

Disadvantages

It is less effective for washing dirt that are easily soluble in water.

It is hazardous air pollutant .It is toxic.

MODERN DRY CLEANING MACHINES

A dry cleaning machine is similar to a combination of a domestic washing machine,and clothes dryer.

Garments are placed into a washing/extraction chamber which contains a horizontal,perforated drum that rotates within an outer shell.

The shell holds the solvent while the rotating drum holds the garment load. Thebasket capacity is between 20 and 80 lb (9-36 kg) of garments.

INDUSTRIAL DRY CLEANING MACHINES

Stainless Steel Inner Cylinder

Solvent filter provides maximum clean solvent recovery.

Its all welded, belt driven, dual motor.

Low energy consumption.

Auto timed, auto reverse.

No-sag perforated basket.


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4. PRESSING

Pressing is the application of heat, moisture and pressure to shape, mold, or crease

fabrics, garments, or garments parts into the geometric forms. Pressing may be done

during assembly to facilitate other operation and improve quality. Selecting the

appropriate equipment for the fabric and operation is important to garment quality and

appearance.

Types of Pressing

1. In-process pressing

It is done while a garment is under construction.

It is used to crease, shape and smooth components for more accurate seaming.

2. Finish pressing

It adds the final shape to seam and garments.

It is required for the pleasing appearance.

Elements of pressing

Heat

Steam

Pressure

TYPES OF PRESSING EQUIPMENTS

Buck presses.These are commonly used by manufactures of slacks , skirts , and jackets.

Iron pressing.


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It is a manual molding operation in which pressure and heat are applied with a flatcontact surface.

Block or die pressing.It is a molding process that establishes a products conformance to a form.It may change the surface characteristics and dimension of a product.

Form pressing.Form presses are made in the approximate shape of the finished garments.Steam is forced from the inside of the form through garment while the form expandsto fill all the space inside the garment.

Steamers.


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These are the pressing machine that uses only steam to mold and smooth the garment.Types of steamers-1. steam jets.2. steam guns.3. steam puffs.

4. steam tunnels.

Steam tunnels.These are used for final pressing. Garments are de-wrinkled within a chamber by the

average pressure of circulating steam. Garments are carried over the nozzle of a steam

jet in order for the garment to receive the full force of the steam pressure.


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5.DENIM WASHING

Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal.Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after

being dyed during its production.

Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in amanner similar to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate. With dry

denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans

and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many feel to be a more natural,

unique look than pre-distressed denim.

TYPES OF DENIM WASHES :

1. Mechanical washes

o Stone washo Micro sanding

2. Chemical washes

o Denim bleachingo Enzyme washo Acid wash

CHEMICAL WASHES

Denim bleach

In this process a strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite is

added during the washing with or without stone addition. Discoloration produced is

usually more apparent depending on strength of the bleach liquor quantity, temperature

and treatment time. It is preferable to have strong bleach with short treatment time.

Enzyme Wash

It is environmentally friendly wash. It involves the Application of organic enzymes thateat away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. When the desired color is achieved, the

enzymes can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. Post

treatment includes final rinsing and softening cycle.


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Acid wash

It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in a solution of sodium

hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localized bleaching resulting in a non uniform

sharp blue/white contrast.

MECHANICAL WASHES

Stone wash

In the process of stone washing, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing

machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand and desirable look.

Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and porosity make these stones

multifunctional. The process is quite expensive and requires high capital investment.

Pumice stones give the additional effect of a faded or worn look as it abrades the

surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of

the yarn.

Sand Blasting

Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular,

powdered or other form through a nozzle at very high speed and pressure onto specific

areas of the garment surface to be treated to give the desired distressed/ abraded/used

look.

LASER TECHNOLOGY

It is a computer controlled process for denim fading.This technique enables patterns to

be created such as lines and/or dots, images, text or even pictures. It is water free

fading of denim. Being an automatic system, chances of human error are slim.

Other Mechanical washing

Whiskering

Shot gun denim Water jet fading

Super stone wash

Ice wash

Thermo denim

Laser technology finish


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Other chemical washes

Rinse wash

Cellulase wash Ozone fading

Snow wash

Salt water denim

Flat finish

Over dye

Sun washing

Super dark stone

5. PACKAGING

Packaging is the science, art and technology of enclosing or protecting products for

distribution, storage, sale, and use. Packaging also refers to the process of design,

evaluation, and production of packages.

When designing packaging, the cost to manufacture, ship, and display the packagemust be considered. Packaging must be small enough to accommodate available shelf

space and large enough to deter theft. It must also contain an adequate amount of

product to keep the unit price competitive.

Function and scope of Packaging

Packaging may have two major functions:

1. Distribution The distribution function deals with packaging the apparel or alliedproduct in a manner which permits the apparel manufacturer to ship the product at

lowest cost and/ or in the shortest time to the purchaser, without diminishing thequality of the product

2. Merchandising The merchandising function deals with presenting the apparelproduct in a manner designed to stimulate consumer desire for the product.

Purpose of Packaging


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Physical protection - The objects enclosed in the package may require protectionfrom, among other things, shock, vibration, compression, temperature, etc.

Barrier protection - A barrier from oxygen, water vapor, dust, etc., is often required,keeping the contents clean, fresh, and safe for the intended shelf life is a primaryfunction.

Containment or agglomeration - Small objects are typically grouped together in onepackage for reasons of efficiency. For example, a single box of 1000 pencilsrequires less physical handling than 1000 single pencils.

Information transmission - Packages and labels communicate how to use, transport,recycle, or dispose of the package or product.

Marketing - The packaging and labels can be used by marketers to encouragepotential buyers to purchase the product.

Functions of packaging

1. Primary Protective function

Storage function

Loading and transport function

2. Secondary

Sales function

Promotional function

Service function

Guarantee function

3. Tertiary

Additional function

Types of Packaging Materials

1. Paper2. Plastic film3. Wood4. Nails

5. Staples6. Cords7. Rope8. Gum Tape9. Bands (metal)


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6. Folding

Folding is a very important part of the garment because it adds to the aesthetic appeal

of the garment, helps in the transportation of the lot, protects crease recovery, protects

it from dust, stains etc. Folding in fabrics reduces space and helps in transportation.

Folding Machine

An automatic garment folding machine has a support plate on which the upper central

portion of a garment rests, a cover plate which swings down to an operative position

overlying that portion of the garment, and side folding plates by which longitudinallyextending side portions of the garment are folded into overlapping relationship over its

central portion.

The cover plate has fixed and movable clamping members, the movable clamping

member being movable downward to and upward from a clamping position in which it

cooperates with the fixed clamping members, which are on the upper surface of the

cover plate.


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Bibliography

Websites:

www.apparelonline.com

www.wikipedia.com

www.treehugger.com

www.cleanerssupply.com

www.iimm.com

Books:Apparel production terms and process:

Janace .E. Bubunia

Managing productivity in apparel indstry

Micheal t faralia.

Projects:ITP projects: folding and managing of shirt (may-2007)

Asutosh Saxena

Vidhu Vaishnavi.

Internship projects:

Internship report on orient craft limited

Purnima das (2001-2003)

Indsutry internship report on modelema exports ltd GURGAON

Medha Sharma (2001-2005)
http://www.apparelonline.com/http://www.apparelonline.com/http://www.wikipedia.com/http://www.wikipedia.com/http://www.treehugger.com/http://www.treehugger.com/http://www.cleanerssupply.com/http://www.cleanerssupply.com/http://www.iimm.com/http://www.iimm.com/http://www.iimm.com/http://www.cleanerssupply.com/http://www.treehugger.com/http://www.wikipedia.com/http://www.apparelonline.com/

Overview of Tex Finishes

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