Ouray Ice Climbing 2003€¦ · – Ice and Rock Slides – Avalanche Safety – Ice Park Safety. 3...
Transcript of Ouray Ice Climbing 2003€¦ · – Ice and Rock Slides – Avalanche Safety – Ice Park Safety. 3...
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Ouray Ice Climbing2006• Table of Contents
– Introductions– Working Together– OEI– Learning– Fear– Responsibility– Itinerary– Staying warm– First aid– Ice and Rock Slides– Avalanche Safety– Ice Park Safety
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Ouray Ice Climbing2006
• Introductions
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Working Together
• What is this?
• Why is a manhole cover round?
December 11, 2005
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OEI
• Outdoor Education Initiative– Learn everything
about leading and learning in the outdoors
– Diversity outcomes– Student success
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• Experiential Learning and Teaching
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Fear Factor
• Everyone experiences it• Effect on learning• We cope with it in different
ways:– Team support, team
building– Self talk– Focus on breathing
Vail 2005
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Responsibility• Climbers
– Personal safety– Partners safety– The environment– Access
• Land owners and managers• Rescue, self rescue and
preparedness
• Guides / instructors– Client safety– Learning– Preparedness
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Itinerary
• Meals• Meet at the dumpster at
8:30 AM• Climb until 2:00 PM,
de-rig, return by 3:00• Evenings, discretionary
time, your choice• Questions??
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Non cotton layers Foot gear
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Hypothermia
Px Dress for conditionsWatch out for each otherKeep warmReturn to hotel
TxRemove from conditionsRe-warm
Avoid direct heat:Hot tubHeat padsHot showerHot springs
Longs Peak 2005
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Frost Bite
PxGloves and mittensHand warmersHydrationEncourage circulation
Note: Cold feet and fingers = Pain!
TxRe-warm
Avoid direct heat:Hot tubHeat padsHot showerHot springs
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Common Injuries
PxStay alertGlovesHelmetStretch
Bruised knucklesMuscle sorenessBruised shins, knees, etcFacial bruises and lacerations
Common are minor
TxHIRISEHeat
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Knots:
Retraced figure of eight½ a double fisherman’sClove hitchMunter hitchPrusik
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• Top Bottom Belay
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• Top Belay
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• Lead Belay
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Early ice climbing
Ouray ‘97Clear Creek ‘79
Clear Creek ‘77
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I-70 ‘77Ten Mile ‘01
Clear Creek ‘97
French Technique
Pied troisieme
Early ice climbing
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Priest approach ‘88
A few rock climbing slides
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Blocktop F.A. 1984
A few rock climbing slides
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A few rock climbing slides
Echo Pinnacle‘90
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A few rock climbing slides
Dolomite Towersecond ascent ‘86
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A few rock climbing slides
Indian Creek‘81
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A few rock climbing slides
Standing Rockninth ascent
‘83
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Avalanche!An overview
Topics:Take a field courseWeather - 1 slideSnow pack - 5 slidesAssessing
snow pack – 1 slideTerrain/signs - 3 slidesEquipment - 1 slideRescue - 1 slide
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Weather1 slide
WindPrevailing Westerly
Air temperatures
Snow fall
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Snow pack5 slides
Bed surface
Hasty pits
Data pits
Assessingsnow pack
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Avalanches occur when slabs are not adequately anchored to bed surfaces and release
∆ In bond or load
A bed surface may be the ground or another layer within the snow pack
Bed Surface
Snow pack
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Hasty Pits
Hasty pits let you see into the snow pack
Evaluate:Bond between layers –Bed surfacesTemperature gradient
Dig to the ground in Colorado and other intercontinental mountain ranges
Snow pack
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1° / 10cm temperature gradient = In snow pack
Kinetic growthform crystals
Snow pack
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Data pits
Data pits provide Professionals with time line data to aid in avalanche forecasting
Snow pack
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Assessingsnow pack
1 slide
How easily do slabs in the snow pack slide on bed surfaces?
Rueschblock test
Shovel shear and shovel tap tests
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Terrain and signs
3 slides
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Alaska
Maritime range Glacial serac
Maritime v intercontinental
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Colorado
Inner-continental mountain range
Maritime v intercontinental
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Equipment 1 slide
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Rescue andSurvival
1 slide
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HelmetEye and face protectionToolsLeash-less toolsCramponsThe edgeThe riverFalling objects
IceRock
Cold weather
Safety
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Thank you!Questions? Comments?
Optional InfoOuray Web