C O N T E N T STree Selection Guide ............................................. 4Trees and the Earth ............................................... 6The Urban Heat Island Effect ............................... 7Tree Facts .............................................................. 7Plan Your Landscaping .......................................... 8Selecting Trees at the Nursery .............................. 10Building Your Soil ............................................... 11Planting a New Tree ..............................................12Topping Hurts Trees ............................................ 13Pruning and Fertilizing ........................................ 14Large Trees ........................................................... 16Guide to Selecting an Arborist ............................. 19Medium Trees ...................................................... 19Memorial Trees..................................................... 22Flowering Trees .................................................... 23Conifers................................................................ 27More Tree Facts .................................................... 29Broadleaf Evergreens............................................. 30Palm Trees ............................................................ 31Palm Tree Planting and Care ................................ 32Growing Fruit ...................................................... 33Tree Watering Guidelines ......................................34How Much Water Does Your Lawn Need? ............36Average Monthly Temperatures ............................ 40Planting and Frost Information ............................ 40Books, Tree Care, and Web Sites ......................... 41Resource Groups and Agencies ..............................42How You Can Help...............................................43

TREESOur Living Legacy

PUBLISHED BYCity of St. Georgein cooperation with

City of St. GeorgeShade Tree and

Beautification Board

Keena TannerStar Nursery

Lynne ScottParks and Facilities

Manager

Douglas WulfensteinCity Forester

Board MembersRobert Whatcott

City Council Rep.Mark HodgesBoard PresidentSteve NelsonCarol Hortin

Kristine TwiggsJohn SorensonJohn CostanzaKeena Tanner

Susan SorensenSecretary

Rick HefelbowerEx-officio

GRAPHIC DESIGNTina Cecala

DataMax

PhotographerBrett Jorgenson

Dated PhotographsProvided by noted

donors

This booklet is meant to assist newcomers and oldtimers in how to Select, Plant, and Care for trees.

Some of Southern Utah’s best tree people and oth-ers have worked hard to gather this information. Thisbook contains many trees that you will enjoy, all ofwhich can be found at your local nurseries. Please besure to Plan Before You Plant! Understand the treesyou select so you plant the right tree in the right place.

SOUTHERN UTAH

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Guide to Trees

TTRREEEE SSEE LL EECCTT IIOONN GGUU IIDDEE

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Catalpa speciosa Western Catalpa 16

Eucalyptus microtheca Blue Ghost 16

Eucalyptus polyanthemos Silver Dollar Gum 16

Fraxinus oxycarpa ‘Raywood’ Raywood Ash 16

Fraxinus velutina Arizona Ash 16

Fraxinus velutina ‘Glabra’ Modesto Ash 16

Fraxinus velutina ‘Rio Grande’ Fan-Tex Ash 17

Morus alba Fruitless Mulberry 17

Pistacia chinensis Chinese Pistache 17

Platanus acerifolia London Plane Sycamore 17

Populus candicans Cottonless Cottonwood 18

Populus fremontii Western Cottonwood 18

Salix babylonica Weeping Willow 18

Salix matsudana ‘Navajo’ Navajo Globe Willow 18

Sophora japonica Japanese Pagoda 18

Ulmus parvifolia Lace Bark Elm 19

Betula pendula European White Birch 19

Fraxinus greggii Littleleaf Ash 20

Gleditsia triacanthos ‘Shademaster’ Shademaster Locust 20

Gleditsia triacanthos ‘Sunburst’ Sunburst Locust 20

Koelreuteria bipinnata Chinese Flame 20

Melia azedarach ‘Umbraculiformis’ Texas Umbrella 21

Prosopis alba Argentine Mesquite 21

Prosopis chilensis Chilean Mesquite 21

Prosopis glandulosa Texas Honey Mesquite 21

Prosopis glandulosa torreyana Western Honey Mesquite 21

Prosopis pubescens Screwbean Mesquite 21

Prosopis velutina Arizona Velvet Mesquite 21

Quercus buckleyi Red Rock Oak 22

Albizia julibrissin Silk Tree 23

Caesalpinia gilliesii Yellow Bird-of-Paradise 23

Cercis canadensis Eastern Redbud 23

Cercis mexicana Mexican Redbud 23

Chilopsis linearis Desert Willow 24

Chitalpa tashkentensis Chitalpa 24

Cotinus coggygria Purple Smoke Tree 24

Lagerstroemia indica Crape Myrtle 24

Scientific Name Common Name Page # Codes

TTRREEEE SSEE LL EECCTT IIOONN GGUU IIDDEE

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Drought tolerant; may be watered less often thanmost plants once established. Great for desert orxeriscape plantings.

Prone to insect and/or disease pests.

Will drop some litter such as seedpods or fruit.

Sensitive to iron chlorosis. Will likely need ironsupplements (chelates) to keep healthy.

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Very Hardy Moderate Tender Drought Tolerant Pests Liter IronV T LDT P IM

Prunus cerasifera ‘Krauter vesuvius’ Flowering Plum 25

Pyrus calleryana ‘Aristocrat’ Aristocrat Pear 25

Pyrus calleryana ‘Bradford’ Bradford Pear 25

Pyrus calleryana ‘Cleveland Select’ Cleveland Select Flowering Pear 25

Robinia ambigua ‘Purple Robe’ Purple Robe Locust 25

Vitex agnus-castus Chaste Tree 26

Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca’ Blue Atlas Cedar 27

Cedrus deodar Deodar Cedar 27

Cupressocyparis leylandii Leyland Cypress 27

Cupressus arizonica Arizona Cypress 27

Cypressus sempervirens ‘Glauca’ Italian Cypress 28

Pinus eldarica Mondell Pine 28

Pinus halepensis Aleppo Pine 28

Pinus pinea Stone Pine 28

Pinus thunbergii Japanese Black Pine 29

Ligustrum japonicum Japanese Privet 30

Olea europaea ‘Swan Hill’ Swan Hill Olive 30

Olea europaea ‘Wilson’ Wilson Olive 30

Prunus caroliiana ‘Compact’ Compact Carolina Cherry 30

Quercus ilex Holly Oak 30

Quercus virginiana Southern Live Oak 30

Brahea armata Mexican Blue Fan Palm 31

Butia capitata Pindo Palm 31

Chamaerops humilis Mediterranean Fan Palm 31

Phoenix canariensis Canary Island Date Palm 31

Phoenix dactylifera Date Palm 31

Trachycarpus fortunei Windmill Palm 31

Washingtonia filifera California Fan Palm 31

Washingtonia robusta Mexican Fan Palm 31

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Scientific Name Common Name Page # Codes

Very cold hardy in all areas of southern Utahincluding Cedar City

Moderately cold hardy in St. George and sur-rounding area

Tender; hardy most years in St. George, exceptfor coldest winters. Usually hardy in Mesquite, NV.

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Trees are NOT recommended to beplanted under power lines!WARNING:

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TTrreeeess aanndd tthhee EEaarrtthhTTrreeeess aanndd tthhee EEaarrtthh• Trees are the longest living organ-

isms on earth.• Trees have been called “nature’s air

conditioners,” and “the lungs ofthe earth.”

• Trees keep our air supply fresh andrenew it by absorbing carbon diox-ide and producing oxygen. Twomature trees can provide enoughoxygen for a family of four. Onetree produces nearly 260 pounds ofoxygen each year. In one year, a sin-gle tree can absorb as much carbonas is produced by a car driven26,000 miles. If every Americanfamily planted just one tree, morethan 1 billion pounds (500,000tons) of “pollutants” would beremoved from the atmosphereevery year.

• By cooling the air around them, theshade from trees helps cool theearth’s temperature. In deserts,leaves absorb moisture from thedew and frost of the cool nightsand release it to cool the air duringwarm days.

• Trees improve water quality byslowing and filtering rain water aswell as protecting aquifiers andwatersheds. The tree roots stabilizethe soil and prevent erosion.

• Trees provide food and shelter forwildlife.

• Trees cut down noise pollution byacting as sound barriers.

• Trees enhance the aesthetics of ourenvironment. Their grandeur,tenacity, and beauty are probablythe most enjoyable aspects of trees.

• Tree bark and fruit have many med-icinal properties whichare still being discovered.

• There are about 60 to200 million spaces alongour nation’s city streetswhere trees could beplanted. This translatesto the potential toabsorb 33 million moretons of carbon dioxideevery year, and a savingsof $4 billion in energycosts!

Wind BlockBeauty

Cooling(through evaporation)

Oxygen

WildlifeHabitat

BirdSanctuary

Fruits &Fibers

ShadeSoilImprovement(through fallen leaves)

ErosionProtection

SoilImprovement(through nitro-gen fixation)

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TThhee UUrrbbaann HHeeaatt IIssllaanndd EEffffeeccttWe all know St. George is hot,

but temperatures in some of the moredeveloped areas of town can oftensoar ten degrees above the “official”temperature. Large volumes of con-crete and asphalt are the villains,absorbing heat all day and radiating itall night, keeping overall tempera-tures higher by far than they would beon the open desert. Anyone who haslived a while here has experienced theheightened temperatures that comewith development (most oftenenjoyed while stuck in clouds ofexhaust at a gridlocked traffic light).

This tendency of cities to be hotterthan the surrounding countryside iscalled the “urban heat island effect,”and it is a key factor in making urbanlife difficult for living things. Properlychosen, planted and cared for, treesgo a long way toward lowering tem-peratures by shading the ground andcooling through evaporation. Treeslocated along streets act as glare andreflection control. If we were to insiston shading streets and parking lotswith hardy, water conservative trees,it would get cooler here and be amore pleasant place to live.

TThhee UUrrbbaann HHeeaatt IIssllaanndd EEffffeecctt

HHeeaatt IIssllaanndd

SShhaaddee TTuunnnneell

TTrreeee FFaaccttss• The average tree in a metropoli-

tan area survives only about 8years!

• A tree does not reach its mostproductive stage of carbon stor-age for about 10 years.

• It has been shown that workerswho view trees on their commuteare more productive and experi-ence less stress on the job.Studies show that the greeneryand scenery of trees sped uprecovery and decreased medica-tion use by patients in hospitals.

• Trees increase property valuesby 5 to 20% due to their land-scaping value.

• In 50 years, one tree recyclesmore than $37,000 worth ofwater, provides $31,000 worth oferosion control, $62,000 worth ofair pollution control, and pro-duces $37,000 worth of oxygen.

• People who plant trees becomehealthier, better looking, richer,and have more friends (wellmaybe that’s stretching it a bit!) -plant a tree and find out!

PPllaann YYoouurr LLaannddssccaappiinnggPPllaann YYoouurr LLaannddssccaappiinnggSave Energy With Trees

PPrreelliimmiinnaarryy SSiittee aanndd DDeessiiggnnCCoonnddiittiioonnss

You may be able to design and ori-ent your new house to maximize yourhomesite’s natural advantages andmitigate its disadvantages. Solar heatpassing through windows and beingabsorbed through the roof is themajor reason for air conditioner use.Shading is the most cost-effective wayto reduce solar heat gain and reduceair-conditioning costs. The followingguidelines are suggested:• Note exposure to sun, wind, and

water.• Identify locations of fences, adja-

cent buildings, and trees.• Study wind patterns, shadows, and

seasonal changes to site.• Note window locations and try to

shade while protecting views.• Use deciduous trees to create sum-

mer shade and allow winterwarmth.

• To deflect winds, use coniferoustrees.

Take into consideration the site andclimatic conditions of your home site.Whether you are building a newhome or live in an existing home,study the conditions and use trees andplant material to benefit your livingenvironment and enhance its beauty.

PPllaannnniinngg aanndd DDeessiiggnnAfter you have considered the exist-

ing site and climatic conditions, cre-ate a plan for your homesite showingthese conditions. Show existing walls,utilities, driveways, patios and all fea-tures pertinent to your homesite.Place arrows on the plan showing pre-vailing winds, sun orientation, anddesirable views. After noting existingconditions on the plan, place circlesrepresenting trees to facilitate the siteconditions. Locate trees to provide

8

Deciduous trees shield the home during summer, while allowing sunlight to shine through andwarm the home during winter months. Trees also prevent glare off hard surfaces from reflectinginto windows. (Diagrams from “Plants for Dry Climates” by Mary Rose Duffield and Warren Jones.)

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shade, screen wind, and so forth.After determining locations, selectspecies for those locations that bestserve the need.

When selecting trees for the land-scape, consider the following:• Know the mature size of the tree

relative to the given space.• Know the shape characteristics of

the tree – i.e., low branching,multi-trunked, etc.

• Give adequate clearance to roofeaves, utilities above and belowground, walkways and driveways.

• Consider color, density, shape, shadepattern, as well as flowering charac-teristics, and litter production.

• Know the water requirements of thetree before determining location.

• In groupings, create diversity ofspecies to provide year-round inter-est and interesting composition.

TThhee OOaassiiss CCoonncceeppttOasis landscaping is based on a

concept of zones, with the highestwater-using plants (including turf )closest to the house, medium-useplants next, with the toughest andmost water-efficient plants ringingthe outside of the lot. Consider thefollowing:• Turf takes up to 30% of the land-

scape, and is placed in the mostvisible, usable area.

Your own yard has areas with different climatic conditions, called microclimates. Variables in sunlight,temperature, humidity and wind make each home landscape different. Understanding your microcli-mates will help ensure success with your landscape plants. For example, cold-tender, sun-loving plantswill perish if located in cool, shaded areas. Plants not adapted to high temperatures will die whenexposed to the intense reflected heat from a south or west wall.(Diagram and information from “Plants for Dry Climates” by Mary Rose Duffield and Warren Jones.)

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• Courtyards, patios, and entries, areaccentuated with more exotic andcolorful plants.

• Trees and shrubs are located to giveshade, deflect wind, and provideinterest in the landscape.

• Water-wise and native plants areused in the remaining landscape tofill in the yard.

• Either rock or bark mulch shouldbe used to preserve soil moisture.

The goal of oasis landscaping isto give the most visual and environ-mental pleasure to the homeowner,using water wisely to create a livingdesert oasis and adding to the valueof the home.

XXeerriissccaappee PPllaannnniinnggThe word xeriscape is derived

from the greek word “xeros” whichmeans dry. The concept and princi-ples of xeriscaping were created in theearly 1980s by a consortium of watermanagers and green industry profes-sionals in the Denver area. The intro-duction of the xeriscape concept wasspecifically for popularizing water

SSeelleeccttiinngg TTrreeeess aatt tthhee NNuurrsseerryyAfter you’ve decided which tree is best suited to your yard, needs andtastes, your next task is to choose among the various individual trees at yourlocal nursery. When choosing a tree in a nursery, look for the following:• Trunk free of gouges or missing bark;• Symmetrical, well branched head that takes up close to a third of the

height of the tree;• A good root ball with no exposed roots or major roots coming out of the

drain holes;• Tree should not rock in bucket.Getting the most for your money demands attention and care, but the long-term result is a healthy, happy tree, shade, and a better environment.

conservation in the landscape. Theseven xeriscape principles were devel-oped. They are:1. planning and design2. soil analysis3. appropriate plant selections4. practical turf areas5. efficient irrigation6. use of mulches7. appropriate maintenance

Xeriscape does not mean graveland cactus nor is it a “lawn-less”landscape. It’s simply the applicationof the above principles related to cre-ating an aesthetically pleasing andwater efficient landscape.

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BBuuiillddiinngg YYoouurr SSooiillDesert soils are not very “plant

friendly!” You need only to observethe natural vegetation to realize thatvery little will grow here without seri-ous modifications to the soil and cli-mate. The most obvious obstacle isthe lack of moisture, which can behelped with irrigation. The nextobstacle is the poor soils which aremuch more difficult to correct.

High pH, high salts, and loworganic matter characterize soils inthe southern part of Utah. The highpH is derived from the breakdown ofminerals that comprise our parentsoil materials. As rock weathers fromfreezing, thawing and erosion, soil isslowly formed over many years. Forexample, if you live near a sandstonecliff, your soil is going to be high insand. Salts are also a natural compo-nent of the minerals that make upour soils. Low rainfall allows the saltsto accumulate over time. They oftengo unnoticed in areas of the countrywith higher rainfall because there issufficient moisture to dilute themand even wash most of them away.

Before you begin planting, it iswise to check your soil conditions byrunning a soil test. Information onsoil testing can be obtained from theUtah State University ExtensionOffice located at 197 E. Tabernacle.By knowing your soil conditionsbefore you begin planting, you canadd anything that may be lacking.This way, there will not be any sur-prises if something is way out of linethat may prevent you from growingcertain types of plants.

BBuuiillddiinngg YYoouurr SSooiillOne thing is for sure, you will

not go wrong by adding organic mat-ter. Typically our soils contain lessthan one percent. Good plant growthis achieved when there is at least fivepercent. There are many sourceswhere organic matter can beobtained. Nurseries and garden cen-ters carry items such as peat, cowmanure, “Paydirt” and other amend-ments designed to improve soil. Ifyou plan to do a large area all at once,it may be more economical to contacta local source such as a farm, the fairgrounds or the county landfill. First-time applications should consist of 2-3 inches applied to the top andworked 4-6 inches into the soil. Insuccessive years, apply 1-2 inches.Even established lawns benefit fromorganic matter. After aeration, apply1/2 to 1 inch and rake or sweep intothe aeration holes. Organic matterwill improve water uptake and allowsalts to be released from soil particlesand be washed through the soil pro-file more easily. Over a number ofyears, as the organic matter breaksdown, pH will improve. Nutrientsneeded for plant growth, and devel-opment will slowly become moreavailable.Suggestions:

1.Test your soil.2.With recommendations in hand,

determine what needs to be added.3. Choose trees and landscape plants

that are suited to your soil conditions.4.Use water responsibly by

installing an efficient irrigation sys-tem, and water as needed.

• Dig your hole at least twice as wideand several inches deeper than theroot ball of the tree.

• Reserve the displaced soil, remov-ing rocks.

• Fill the hole with water. If it drainswithin two hours, proceed. If not,dig a chimney tunnel at the base ofthe hole to break through to amore porous level.

• Mix your reserved soil with aplanting mix or mulch at a rate of2 parts native soil to 1 part amend-ment. Set aside a portion of thereserved native top soil to build araised ring for deep watering. Soilsulfur mixed in at this time helpsneutralize alkaline soils.

• Place enough amended soil inthe bottom of the hole sothat when the rootball isset on it, the top isabout 1/2 inch abovethe surrounding sur-face level.

• Set the root balland also anystakes you will beusing to supportthe tree. Fill thehole with amend-

ed soil, tamping lightly as you go.Bring filled soil level even with thetop of the root ball. If you areusing slow-release fertilizer tablets,add them at this time.

• Build a 4-inch high ring of soil uparound the tree, about 1-1/2 feetfrom the trunk. Fill with water orroot stimulator. Let settle, addadditional soil to compensate. Donot mound soil up above the levelof the root ball, or you will killyour tree. Tie tree to stakes as necessary.

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PPllaannttiinngg AA NNeeww TTrreeeePPllaannttiinngg AA NNeeww TTrreeee

single straighttrunk to 7’ height

slack wire throughrubber hose (Use nailin post to keep fromsliding downward.)

remove transittrunk guard

1 1/2” to 2 1/2”caliper

keep mulch awayfrom root collar

remove burlap or folddown wire basket

rootball on undis-turbed soil

good nativesoil or topsoil

wider hole if soilis compacted

3” to 5” mulch ofbark or woodchips

2” x 2” hardwoodstakes (Use threestakes in a triangle invery windy spots.)

no branchesbelow 5’

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TTooppppiinngg HHuurrttss TTrreeeessTTooppppiinngg HHuurrttss TTrreeeess

Topping is defined as the removalof a tree’s leaf-bearing crown.Topping cuts are usually indiscrimi-nate and are not made at specificjunctures. A tree’s natural defense sys-tem does not have the ability to closewounds that are the result of topping.

Topping trees is very harmfuland disfiguring. Topping disrupts thenormal biology of trees, due to thefact that trees feed themselvesthrough photosynthesis. (The leavesare the “food factories” of a tree.)When trees are defoliated as in top-ping, the survival of the tree dependson the amount of food energy storedin the remaining trunk and limb tis-sue and the underground root sys-tem. Some tree species have more ofan ability to survive this harmfulpractice than others, however; alltrees suffer irreversible damage fol-lowing total tree topping. Toppedtrees can experience several years ofdeclining health and eventual death.

Some argue that because a treere-grows the removed foliage follow-ing topping, that the tree was notharmed. Others believe that becausethe canopy is replaced so fast, thattopping actually adds vigor and isbeneficial to the tree. What is nottotally understood is that the tree isreplacing its canopy just to survive,and expending the energy to replaceits canopy puts the tree into a sur-vival stress mode. A stressed tree is

more vulnerable to other secondaryharmful effects such as disease andinsect infestations. Each stub orheading cut made to top a tree can bean invitation to disease and insects toenter the tree to decay or feed on thetree’s internal tissues.

TTRREEEESS CCAANNNNOOTT BBEE UUNNTTOOPPPPEEDD

Most trees have the ability toclose wounds if cuts are made at spe-cific junctures. The average homeowner, given the right information,can make correct cuts on their ownlandscape trees. However; the safestand best way to ensure proper treecare is to hire an educated and expe-rienced arborist. An educated andexperienced arborist can advise as tothe extent of pruning necessary. TheSt. George Shade Tree andBeatification Board as well as theUtah State University ExtensionService recommend hiring anarborist that has been certified by theInternational Society ofArboriculture (ISA). This certifica-tion insures the homeowner that thearborist has been educated to under-stand the biology of trees and thetree’s responses to pruning. Anarborist must have a City license and

(Continued on next page.)

PPrruunniinngg aanndd FFeerrttiilliizziinnggPPrruunniinngg aanndd FFeerrttiilliizziinngg

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PPrruunniinnggRemove the following:• Dead or dying portions of the tree• Rubbing branches• Narrow-angled branches from the

main trunk• Crowding branches - remove

less desired branch• Sprouts and suckers• Portions of tree interfering with

road, house, sidewalks, etc.

Branches that are removedshould be cut just outside of theswollen area near the trunk of thetree. This is called the branch col-lar. The idea for good pruning isto cut as close to the trunk as pos-sible without taking off thebranch collar.

When removing large limbs,THREE cuts are necessary toavoid tearing the bark. The firstcut should be made on the under-side of the branch, 1 to 1 1/2 feetfrom the trunk. Cut only 1/3 ofthe way through on this cut. Thesecond cut should be made on thetop of the branch, one to two

be insured to perform tree mainte-nance within St. George City. Othercities may have similar ordinances.The Shade Tree and BeautificationBoard and Utah State UniversityExtension recommend that pruningguidelines as defined in publicationsby the ISA and the AmericanNational Standards Institute, [ANSI

/ A-300 standard], be adhered towhen pruning is necessary. For moreinformation and/or free ISAPublications, contact St. George CityParks Division Office, located at 390North 3050 East, 435-634-5869.

Protecting the urban forest willbenefit all of us that live within thecommunity.

inches further out than the first cut.Cut until the branch breaks free. Thethird and final cut is made by thetrunk, just outside the branch collar orbranch bark ridge, to remove the restof the branch.

1.

2.

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5.

6.

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TTRREEEESS

1.Stub 4.Rubbing branches2.Watersprout 5.Narrow crotch3.Closely parallel branches 6.Sucker

A Tree With Typical Pruning Problems

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Helpful Hints• NEVER TOP TREES• Most trees can be pruned year round.• Once conifer limbs are removed,

they will not grow back in that spot.• Young trees should not be pruned

until one year after planting.• Never remove more than 1/4 of a tree.• It is better to leave a tree alone than

to top or improperly prune it.• Flowering trees should be pruned

after they are done flowering.• Fruit trees should be pruned after the

leaves fall off in winter.

FFeerrttiilliizziinnggTrees require certain elements,

known as macronutrients, in relativelylarge quantities. The most importantof these is nitrogen (N). Nitrogen is aconstituent of proteins and chloro-phyll, and is critical to photosynthesisand other plant processes.

Much of the nitrogen in soil is lostdue to leaching or to volatilization (thereturn of nitrogen to the atmosphere inits gaseous state). The removal of leaflitter and other natural sources ofnitrogen can disrupt the cycling ofnitrogen in the soil. Annual raking andleaf removal typically takes 1-3 pounds ofnitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. out of the cycle.

Nitrogen deficiency shows up asslow growth, small leaves, and yellow-ing (chlorosis) of the leaves, especiallyolder leaves. On nitrogen-deficientplants, sometimes the newer, develop-ing leaves appear greener than the olderones because nitrogen is somewhatmobile in plants, allowing it to bedirected toward new growth. However,these symptoms may also be due to a

variety of other problems that affect roothealth and element uptake. Becausenitrogen is the element most likely tobe deficient in trees, fertilizer specifica-tions usually focus on this element.

The elements phosphorous (P),potassium (K), and sulfur (S) also arerequired in relatively large quantities.These elements often are present in thesoil in adequate amounts for trees andlarge shrubs. The secondary nutrientsinclude magnesium (Mg) and calcium(Ca), which are required in moderatequantities. Although these elements arecalled secondary, severe deficiencies canresult in loss of the plant. Magnesiumdeficiency is a serious problem in palms.

Other elements, known asmicronutrients, are required in lesserquantities. Although these elements arenot required in large amounts, a defi-ciency of any one can have profoundeffects on the health of the tree. Forexample, iron chlorosis is a conditionthat results when a tree is not absorbingsufficient quantities of iron, usuallydue to high soil pH. Young leaves aresmall and chlorotic (yellow), often withgreen veins, while older leaves tend tobe darker green. Iron deficiency caneventually kill a tree. Like iron, man-ganese and zinc may at times be defi-cient in a tree.

The goal of fertilization is to sup-ply nutrients that have been deter-mined to be deficient in your trees orshrubs. Trees with satisfactory growthand not showing problems of nutrientdeficiency may not require fertilization.Contact your local nursery or arboristfor help in determining the need for,and type of fertilizer required for yourlandscape plants.

Blue GhostEucalyptus microthecaLarge eucalyptus grows rapidly to ±40 feet. Asuperior dry area accent or border. Stands upto strong wind. Full sun, good drainage anddeep, infrequent water when established.

Raywood AshFraxinus oxycarpa ‘Raywood’Compact, round-headed tree, grows rapidlyto ±30 x 25 feet. Fine-leafed foliage turnspurple red in fall. Excellent accent in manylandscapes. Full sun, amended soil withmoderate water in growing season. Gooddrainage is a must.

Arizona AshFraxinus velutinaVigorous, well-adapted variety grows rapidlyto ±40 x 30 feet. Yellow foliage in fall.Excellent shade tree for our climate. Fullsun, amended soil, good drainage and deep,infrequent water when established.

Fan-Tex AshFraxinus velutina ‘Rio Grande’Extremely tough tree to ±30 x 30 feet, hasthicker leaves and more open habit thanother ash varieties. Especially useful forshade in hot desert climates and poor soils.Best with full sun, good drainage and deep,infrequent water when established.

LLaarrggee TTrreeeess

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LLaarrggee TTrreeeess

Western CatalpaCatalpa speciosaLarge accent tree to ±40 x 30 feet has clustersof white flowers in spring followed by long,bean-like pods. Unusual landscape accent inmany settings. Full sun, amended soil withgood drainage and moderate water. Protectfrom strong winds.

Silver Dollar GumEucalyptus polyanthemosPopular eucalyptus grows rapidly to ±30 feet. Usedas dry landscape accent. Full sun, good drainageand deep, infrequent water when established.

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Chinese PistachePistacia chinensisSturdy, slow-growing shade tree to 40 x 35feet has interesting bark and multi-coloredfall foliage. Excellent accent, specimen orstreet tree. Adapts well to poor soils butneeds good drainage. Best in full sun withdeep, infrequent water when established.

Fruitless MulberryMorus albaEasy to grow, this tough, vigorous tree to±40 x 30 feet has large, deeply cut, darkgreen leaves. Gives excellent shade in manysettings. Water deeply during growing sea-son to prevent surface roots. Do not top thistree.

Modesto AshFraxinus velutina ‘Glabra’Vigorous forms of Arizona Ash to ±30 x 30feet has a formal head with yellow foliage in fall.Excellent shade tree in a variety of land-scapes. Full sun, amended soil, gooddrainage and moderate water. May scorch instrong, hot winds, but recovers nicely.

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V LLondon Plane SycamorePlatanus acerifoliaClassic shade tree to ±50 x 40 feet has maple-like leaves and attractive bark. Very adapt-able. Good street or yard tree in varied land-scapes. Best with full sun, amended soil,good drainage and moderate water.

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Western CottonwoodPopulus fremontiiSouthwest native distinguished from othersby broad crown and thicker leaves. Growsquickly to ±50 x 40 feet. Has clear yellow fallcolor. Great shade tree for large areas, notfor small yards. Full sun, good drainage anddeep, infrequent water when established.

Cottonless CottonwoodPopulus candicansFast-growing, ±50 x 40 feet tree gives excel-lent shade in large landscape areas. Not forsmall yards. Full sun, good drainage, anddeep, infrequent water when established.

Japanese Pagoda Sophora japonicaTough adaptable shade tree grows moderate-ly to 40 x 40 feet with yellow flowers in clus-ters in spring. Full sun, good drainage anddeep, infrequent water when established.

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The goal of planting deciduous trees isto gain maximum shade and cooling inthe summer, and to allow winter sun into passively heat in the winter.

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Weeping WillowSalix babylonicaTree with weeping branches grows quicklyto ±40 x 40 feet. This one has a large rootsystem so give it plenty of room. Short livedin our climate. Give full sun, good drainage,regular feeding and lots of water. Allow tobranch low to shade trunk.

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Navajo Globe WillowSalix matsudana ‘Navajo’Fast growing tree to ±50 x 40 feet is namedfor its globe-like shape. Best true willow vari-ety for our climate. Full sun, amended soil,good drainage and regular water. This onehas a large root system, give plenty of room.

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European White BirchBetula pendulaAccent tree to 30 x 15 feet is best in coolerareas of the southwest. Acclaimed for itssnowy white bark which adds landscapeinterest year round. Full sun, rich soil withgood drainage.

Lacebark ElmUlmus parvifoliaTough tree with small, dark leaves andattractive bark grows rapidly to ±40 x 40feet. Gives good shade in a variety of land-scapes. Full sun, amended soil, gooddrainage and moderate to infrequent waterwhen established. Stake well and prune forwind protection.

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• Hire an arborist that is certi-fied through the InternationalSociety of Arboriculture(ISA).

• A certified arborist shouldphysically do, or directlyoversee the tree work.

• Hire an arborist who is citylicensed to prune trees.

• Hire an arborist that isinsured and bonded.

• Don’t hire someone that pro-motes tree topping.

• Beware of a tree contractorthat solicits door-to-door.

• Ask for and check references.• Contact your local City

Forester for further informa-tion.

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Chinese Flame Koelreuteria bipinnataSpreading tree to 30-40 feet has flowers inspring followed by multicolored seed cap-sules in fall. Full sun, amended soil, gooddrainage and deep, infrequent water whenestablished.

Sunburst LocustGleditsia triacanthos ‘Sunburst’Unusual variety characterized by golden yel-low new growth. Leaves darken with age.Good accent in traditional landscapes. Fullsun, amended soil, good drainage and regu-lar water.

Littleleaf AshFraxinus greggiiLarge shrub or small tree to 15 feet tall and10 feet wide. Drought tolerant when estab-lished. Protect from reflected afternoon sun.Give amended, well-drained soil, deep,infrequent water.

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Shademaster LocustGleditsia triacanthos ‘Shademaster’Fast growing variety reaches 30 x 20 feet.Excellent shade tree in many settings. Fullsun, amended soil, good drainage and deep,infrequent water when established.

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Texas Honey MesquiteProsopis glandulosa glandulosaTough, thorny tree to 25 x 30 feet. No prob-lem with heat, wind, cold, or drought. Hasfragrant yellow flowers in spring.

Western Honey MesquiteProsopis glandulosa torreyanaMojave native mesquite to 20 x 25 feet. Noproblem with heat, wind, cold, or drought.Has fragrant, fuzzy yellow flowers in spring.

Screwbean MesquiteProsopis pubescens Smaller southwestern native grows moder-ately to ±10 feet. Named from coiled seedpods. Superb accent or specimen in any dryarea. Hard to get; if you see one, buy it! Bestwithout pruning.

Arizona Velvet MesquiteProsopis velutina Fine, velvety hairs cover young growth ofthis versatile tree. Grows moderately to ±15x 15 feet with fragrant yellow flowers insummer. Desert accent or patio shade tree.Prune for form and control.

Texas Umbrella Melia azedarach ‘Umbraculiformis’Tough, umbrella-shaped tree to 30 feet givesdense shade in the hottest, driest climates.Fragrant purple flowers in spring followedby berry-like fruit. Best in full sun, any soilwith deep, infrequent water when established.Prune to shape and open canopy as needed.

Mesquite TreesUpright tree with weeping habit. Oftenmulti-trunked with large spreading crown.Some varieties may have thorns. Full sun,well-drained soil, deep, infrequent waterwhen established.

Argentine MesquiteProsopis alba Most vigorous variety for landscape use.Grows rapidly to ±30 x 20 feet. Will take lotsof water, but deep, infrequent wateringmakes strongest trees. Prune regularly toopen canopy and prevent wind damage.

Chilean Mesquite Prosopis chilensisThis complex hybrid of many species is themost frequently used landscape variety.Grows rapidly to ±20 feet; young trees mayhave thorns. Prune to open canopy and pre-vent wind damage.

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MEMORIAL TREESPlanting a tree in memory of someone you loved is a time-honored practice. The City ofSt. George Parks, as well as other local parks departments, have established programsfor memorial tree planting. Call your local department for details.

Living Christmas Trees were planted by the Bluff Street Fountain by several local volunteers. LorinRichards (shown above, planting the first live Christmas Tree), is one of those many volunteers. Hewas also a key figure in the City of St. George, Mayor’s Shade Tree Board. The photo to the right isthe same corner on Bluff Street as it looks today.

Red Rock OakQuercus buckleyiNew desert-adapted variety to 25 feet haslarge leaves shaped like traditional oak, buttougher and wind-resistant. New leaves arerich burgundy red, turning deep green. Fullsun, amended soil, good drainage, and deep,infrequent water when established.

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Mexican RedbudCercis mexicanaSuperb flowering shrub to 10 x 10 feet cov-ered with pink blooms in spring. Greatdrought resistant accent. Best when protect-ed from reflected afternoon sun. Likesamended, well-drained soil, deep, infrequentwater when established.

Silk TreeAlbizia julibrissinGrows rapidly to ±40 x 40 feet with fluffy,fragrant pink flowers in summer. Excellentchoice for our climate. Full sun, amendedsoil, good drainage, and deep, infrequentwater when established.

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Eastern RedbudCercis canadensisEastern variety to 25 feet is most apt to taketree form. Has pink flowers on bare branch-es followed by heart-shaped leaves in spring.Best with morning sun, amended soil, gooddrainage, and moderate water. Good accentor patio tree. Protect from hot sun and winds.

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Yellow Bird-of-ParadiseCaesalpinia gilliesiiThis tough, versatile plant reaches ±10 feetwith clusters of yellow, red-centered flow-ers. Great accent or specimen. Full sun,amended soil, deep, infrequent water whenestablished.

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Crape MyrtleLagerstroemia indicaTrees to 15 x 12 feet are favorites for theirbright summer blooms in colors like pink,white, red and lavender. Full to part sun,amended soil with good drainage, moderatewater, and regular feeding in growing season.Prune back in January to increase flowers.

ChitalpaChitalpa tashkentensisUnusual hybrid cross between the nativeDesert Willow and the Eastern Catalpa.Clusters of large, fragrant, pink flowers allsummer. Full sun, well-drained soil, deep,infrequent water when established. Strikingspecimen for dry or transitional areas.

Desert WillowChilopsis linearisHybrid variety to 25 x 20 feet with reddishpurple, orchid-like blooms all summer. Ahardy addition to any desert garden. Fullsun, well-drained soil, deep, infrequentwater when established. Remove seed podsfor more blooms. Prune as needed for formand control.

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Purple Smoke TreeCotinus coggygriaUnusual large shrubor tree to 20 x 20 feethas clusters of purple flowers in spring andbright orange-red foliage in fall. Great fordesert areas. Full sun, tolerates poor soil,good drainage, and deep, infrequent water isbest.

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Purple Robe LocustRobinia ambigua ‘Purple Robe’Shapely tree to 40 x 30 feet has clusters ofpurple flowers in late spring. Great landscapespecimen. Adapts well to hot, dry climates.Likes amended soil and good drainage, deep,infrequent water when established.

Cleveland Select Flowering PearPyrus calleryana ‘Cleveland Select’Dense, cone-shaped variety to 30 feet hasabundant white flowers in spring and purpleto reddish-orange fall foliage. Likes sun,amended soil, good drainage and moderatewater.

Bradford PearPyrus calleryana ‘Bradford’Strongly branched tree to ± 30 x 30 feet hasclusters of white flowers in spring and prettyred foliage in fall. Likes sun, amended soil,good drainage, and moderate water.

Aristocrat PearPyrus calleryana ‘Aristocrat’Ornamental, pyramid shaped variety to 25feet has clusters of white flowers in spring andpretty red foliage in fall. Likes sun, amendedsoil, good drainage, and moderate water.

Flowering PlumPrunus cerasifera ‘Krauter vesuvius’Decorative tree to 18 x 12 feet is darkest offruitless, flowering plums. Has pink flowersin March, followed by deep burgundy-pur-ple leaves which hold color throughout theseason. Super landscape accent. Full sun,amended soil, good drainage, and moderatewater.

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Spring

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Indian camp in 1900located betweenTabernacle St. & FirstSouth and Third andFourth East in St.George, Utah. Photofrom Lynne ClarkCollection, donor:Howard Starr.

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DTMChaste TreeVitex agnus-castusDeciduous shrub or tree to ±15 x 15feet covered with spikes of lavender-blue flowers summer through fall. Fullsun, well-drained soil, moderate toinfrequent water. Adapts to nearly anysituation. Prune to suite – hedge, shrubor tree.

St. George from Sugar Loaf hill. Photo from Lynne Clark Collection,donor: Orpha Morris; circa: early 1910s.

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Notice the lack of treesin the photo above.Then at right, noticethe obvious canopy oftrees located in thevalley. Within as littleas 10 years, the localsmade a drastic changein the look and feel ofthe St. George area byplanting many trees.

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Blue Atlas CedarCedrus atlantica ‘Glauca’Slow growing conifer to ±50 x 30 feet is anexcellent tree for our climate. It is a majesticlandscape accent. Give full to part sun andwell-drained soil. Wash foliage monthly tokeep it looking sharp.

Deodar CedarCedrus deodarAttractive weeping cedar grows moderatelyto ±50 x 30 feet. Water deeply and infre-quently.

Leyland CypressCupressocyparis leylandiiAttractive evergreen to ±30 x 20 feet with softgray-green foliage. Good screen or accent.Takes full sun. Give amended, well-drainedsoil, deep, infrequent water when established.

Arizona CypressCupressus arizonicaFast-growing evergreen tree to 40 x 20 feet.Good for windbreaks or screens. Needs fullsun, well-drained soil, little fertilizer. Verydrought tolerant when established. Takesdeep, infrequent water. Keep tree area clean,watch for spider mites.

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Italian CypressCypressus sempervirens ‘glauca’Dense, narrow evergreen grows rapidly to±50 x 5 feet. Excellent accent tree. Full sun,good drainage, deep, infrequent water whenestablished. Don’t crowd row planting. Washfoliage monthly to control spider mites.

Mondell PinePinus eldaricaSuperb desert pine with rapid growth to ±50x 20 feet. Thrives in heat, drought, wind andpoor soil. Water deeply and infrequently.Use iron to improve color if needed.

Aleppo PinePinus halepensisTough, well-adapted desert pine growsrapidly to ±50 x 40 feet with a round top.Thrives in desert heat, drought, and wind.Lighter color. Deep, infrequent water. Useiron to improve color if needed.

Stone PinePinus pineaRounded pine grows moderately to ±40 feet.Takes heat and drought when established.Water deeply and infrequently.

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World’s Biggest The Big Tree Sequoia called General Sherman, inCalifornia.

World’s Oldest Bristlecone Pines in the White Mountains, CA/NV;over 4500 years old.

Fastest GrowingVery likely the Leadtree from the tropics, capableof growing up to 24 feet in a year.

Utah’s State TreeBlue Spruce - Picea pungens

Utah’s Largest A Fremont cottonwood - Populus fremontii - locat-ed on the BYU campus. The tree is 427 inches incircumference, 136 inches diameter and 101 feettall with a 90 foot spread.

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Japanese Black PinePinus thunbergiiDecorative, slow-growing tree to ±20 feet.Unusual, free-form landscape accent. Doesbest in full to part sun, amended soil withgood drainage and moderate water. Prunecarefully to maintain form.

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With no air conditioning, early set-tlers were making the most of their

trees. View of St. George takenfrom the top of the temple. Donors:

USHL and Juanita Brooks.

Oldest Southern Utah TreeBristlecone pine - Pinus aristata

Deforestation Rate Based on figures for the tropics for 1989, the aver-age rate is 9,272,727 acres per year, equivalent toalmost 40 square miles each day, or over 17.5 acresper minute.

Average CoolingA 50 year-old tree cools as much in 24 hours as 5tons of air conditioning running 20 hours.

Estimated ValueA 50 year-old tree in an urban setting is valued atapproximately $57,000. This reflects environmentalvalue only, not esthetic.

Source for non-local data: American Forests

MORE TREE FACTS

Japanese PrivetLigustrum lucidumExcellent round-headed patio or landscapetree to ±20 x 10 feet. Takes full to part sun,amended soil with good drainage and deep,infrequent water when established.

Swan Hill OliveWilson OliveOlea europaeaEssentially fruitless and mostly pollenlessvariety to ±20 x 20 feet makes an excellenttraditional or dry landscape accent or streettree. Good performer in heat, wind and poorsoil. Give deep, infrequent water whenestablished.

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CompactCarolinaCherryPrunus caroli-iana ‘Compact’ Denser varietyto ±10 x 10 ft.makes a goodformal accent.Best with after-noon shade,rich, well-drained soil and moderate summer water.Leave natural or prune to shape. Use chelat-ed iron to combat chlorosis and don’t overwater.

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Southern Live OakQuercus virginiana Sturdy, adaptable tree grows moderately to ±40feet. Has broad, spreading crown. Prefersamended soil, good drainage, and deep, infre-quent water. Good accent in many landscapes.

Holly Oak Quercus ilexNeat, formal variety grows moderately to ±40 x30 feet and blends well with any landscape.Best with full sun, amended soil, good drainageand deep, infrequent water when established.Prune for form & control. Virtually pest free.

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PPaallmm TTrreeeessPPaallmm TTrreeeessWater palms deeply and infrequently when establishedunless otherwise noted. Fertilizing needs vary; check withyour local arborist or nursery.

Mexican Blue Fan Palm Brahea armataSlow growing palm to 20-30 feet. Takes drought, heat andwind.

Pindo Palm Butia capitataSlow growing, upright, single trunk, graceful palm to 10-15feet. Does well in containers or landscape. Full sun or lightshade. Graceful arching fronds are silvery-green color.

Mediterranean Fan Palm Chamaerops humilisSlow growing, clumping palm to ±15 x 10 feet. Multi-trunked base is attractive as specimen or accent plant.Drought and wind resistant. Great for containers or drylandscapes.

Canary Island Date Palm Phoenix canariensisSlow growing palm to ±40 feet. Also known as PineapplePalm. Dark, spiny fronds form atop a thick trunk. Will takepoor soil and drought. A variety of this palm is the DatePalm Phoenix dactylifera.

Windmill Palm Trachycarpus fortuneiSingle trunked palm with fuzzy ‘coconut hair,’ grows slowlyto ±20 feet. Very adaptable– does well in afternoon shade.(Shown at right)

California Fan Palm Washingtonia filiferaGrows moderately to ±40 feet. Green fronds form widesprays from crown. Takes heat and drought, but thrives inmoist, well-drained soil. Has much thicker trunk thanMexican fan palm – give it some room. Prune fronds onlywhen completely brown. (Shown at top)

Mexican Fan Palm Washingtonia robustaVery fast growing, taller, more slender-trunked palm to ±80feet. Hybridizes with California Fan Palm to create palmswith both parent traits. Takes poor soil and drought. Prunefronds only when completely brown. (Shown at right)

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PPaallmm TTrreeee PPllaannttiinngg && CCaarreePPaallmm TTrreeee PPllaannttiinngg && CCaarreePPllaannttiinngg

Palm trees respond best to all culti-vation practices during periods of warmweather when the trees are actively grow-ing. This includes planting. The best“window of opportunity” is normallyconsidered from April throughSeptember. Palms normally respond wellto transplanting during this period andbecome established much quicker with ahigher rate of survival than those plant-ed during winter months.

Although most palms are tolerant ofpoor soils, drainage is essential. If hard-pan layers or caliche are encountered atthe site, provisions for drainage are neces-sary. This may include the creation of a“chimney” in the bottom of the plantinghole. Most palms tolerate some change indepth at the time of planting, but it is notrecommended. The back fill mix is ahighly debated area. Some say that nativesoil is best, while others claim that purewashed sand is the best medium forplanting. For some, organic matter is alsooptional. Either way, provide gooddrainage and ample water. Rememberthat palms harvested from establishedplantings require the development of acompletely new root system. Palm frondsare tied up to protect the young heartbud from desiccation by the sun andwind. Prop trees correctly to keep fromblowing over in high winds. Never nailanything directly into the trunk.

WWaatteerriinnggPalms respond well to deep watering

on a regular basis. The growth rate maybe controlled by the amount of waterprovided. Young plants, particularly insandy soils, may need copious amountsof water on a daily basis. Judge the

amount according to weather and size ofthe plant. Less water is required whenthe weather cools. Palms tend to dopoorly when soils are saturated, withnutrient deficiencies becoming more fre-quent in wetter soils.

PPrruunniinnggThe removal of fronds is dependent

on the owner. Some prefer the naturallook of old fronds developing a “skirt” ofthatch. Others find the thatch creates ashaggy, unkempt appearance. In someareas, insects, mice, and rats may becomea nuisance if skirts are left in place.

The pruning of palms requires someskill and is potentially dangerous. Sharpspines, heavy growth, and in some casesscary heights make this task out of reachfor many. If you hire out to prune yourpalms, be sure to check credentials. Makesure that the operator has experience inpalm pruning, utilizing the proper tech-niques and equipment for safe trimming.

One should never over-prune palmfronds. The removal of fronds higherthan the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positionis considered unhealthy for the tree as itremoves the beneficial fronds that pro-tect the bud and provide nutrition forthe tree. Over-pruning will weaken thetree to insects and disease. Remove theflower spikes prior to fruiting. They aremessy and take nutrition from the tree.

Palms should not be climbed withclimber’s spikes or gaffs unless absolutelynecessary. The spikes produce woundsthat never disappear. In fact, repeatedspiking makes climbing unsafe. Oftenwhen a spike enters an old hole, it maykick out causing a potentially fatal fall.Use high lift equipment whenever avail-able to maintain palms instead of spikes.

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GGrroowwiinngg FFrruuiittGGrroowwiinngg FFrruuiittBack yard gardeners seem to have a

passion for growing fruit. Since not everyarea is suited to fruit growing, here are afew tips to help you decide what to grow.

AApppplleess aanndd PPeeaarrssApples and pears will not perform

well in the valley where summer temper-atures are consistently 100 degrees orhigher. They require adequate chilling inthe winter months in order to set fruitand need relatively cool temperatures inthe fall to ripen properly. Areas that sup-port good apple and pear productioninclude Cedar City, Enterprise, Veyoand New Harmony. To insure adequatepollination, you should always plantmore than one variety of apple and pear.

PPeeaacchheess aanndd AApprriiccoottssPeaches and apricots prefer consis-

tently warm temperatures and are wellsuited to the southern valleys. They arenot adversely affected by the heat andcannot handle extremes in cold, evenduring the winter, or the buds may bedamaged. Peaches and apricots will growwell in St. George, Washington, SantaClara, Hurricane. Peaches and apricotsare self-fertile and do not need morethan one variety for pollination.

GGrraappeessGrapes have a long history of excel-

lent production in the St. George area.Vines live to be many years old and willremain productive if given minimal prun-ing. Since buds are somewhat tender,winter damage may occur if temperaturesdrop more than 10 degrees below zero. Inhigher elevations, plant vines on south-facing slopes where soil and air tempera-tures warm more quickly in the spring.

PPoommeeggrraannaatteess aanndd FFiiggssPomegranates are well adapted to

the desert. Grown more as a bush than atree, they require almost no care and stillremain productive. They seem to thrivein the heat and produce best if givenconsistent watering. Figs will also handlethe desert climate well. They mayachieve tree-like size, but most are main-tained as a large bush or small tree. Bothpomegranates and figs will not toleratemuch cold and may be killed to theground if temperatures dip into singledigits.

BBeerrrriieessFruits such as raspberries and straw-

berries require soils that are high inorganic matter and have a slightly acidpH. Most soils in southern Utah willtake a lot of amending before they aresuitable. Berry plants will not bear dur-ing periods of high heat. They may per-form OK if allowed to set and maturefruits before temperatures reach the high90s. In general, berries are not adaptedto the desert environment. They will dobetter in areas where soils are rich andtemperatures are cool, provided thegrowing season is long enough.

SSooiillssNearly all fruits, with possibly the

exception of pomegranates and figs, aresensitive to soils with a high pH andhigh salts. You may want to conduct asoil test before planting (see “BuildingYour Soil” on pg. 11). Fruits will alwaysbenefit from the addition of organicmatter. Use generously at planting toencourage root development and helpprovide adequate drainage.

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TTrreeee WWaatteerriinngg GGuuiiddeelliinneessTTrreeee WWaatteerriinngg GGuuiiddeelliinneess

HHooww mmuucchh wwaatteerr ddooeess mmyyttrreeee nneeeedd??

Proper irrigation of trees is essen-tial for good establishment andfuture growth. During the first year,watering in and just outside the orig-inal root ball is important to relievetransplant shock and stimulate thedevelopment of new roots. After thefirst year, it is important to begin tomove irrigation out to the edge of therooting area. The rooting area is usu-ally defined as the space which radi-ates out from the trunk to some-where just outside of the “canopydrip line” (edge of the branches).Most of the water absorbed by theroots will occur in the area just out-side of the canopy drip line (see dia-gram). Although rooting depth mayvary somewhat depending on treespecies and soil type, most of the rootsare found in the top two feet of soil.

WWhhaatt ttyyppee ooff ssyysstteemm ddoo II uussee??Delivery of water within the

rooting area may be achieved in anumber of ways. Sprinklers, bub-blers, and drip emitters are the mostcommon methods of delivery.Sprinklers tend to spray a portion ofthe water off the target area and lackefficiency. Bubblers can be effective ifthe water is channeled to stay in therooting zone. With bubblers, it isimportant that the water not bedelivered so quickly that much of itruns outside the target area. Drip

emitters are the most efficientmethod of irrigation. In general, theyshould be placed two feet apart with-in the drip line canopy and radiateout from the trunk like the spokes ofa wheel (see diagram at right).Delivery rates of emitters vary begin-ning with one gallon per minute andgoing up. One gallon per minute isadequate for clay soils. Sandy soilsmay require two gallon per minuteemitters in order to keep up with thefaster infiltration rate. Applyingwater directly to the trunk is harmfuland will often result in disease prob-lems later on.

HHooww lloonngg sshhoouulldd II wwaatteerr??Your water run time will be

determined by how long it takes thewater to reach the entire root zone.This will take some experimenting.

Canopydrip line

Percent of totalwater absorbed

Most water used by trees and shrubs isabsorbed outside the canopy drip line.

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First, run the system for a specifiedtime, then use a probe to check soilmoisture. A metal rod or screwdriverwill insert easily into well-wateredsoil. The depth of watering can bechecked by seeing how far down theprobe will go without too mucheffort. Water the complete root zoneeach time you irrigate. Short water-ing intervals that do not allow thewater to go down deep will encour-age shallow roots. Surface roots willcause problems later on and caninterfere with mowing.

HHooww oofftteenn sshhoouulldd II wwaatteerr??Once trees are established, a good

rule of thumb is to water one to threetimes a week in summer (dependingon your soil) and once a month inwinter. Newly planted trees will need

Minimumroot zonesize Canopy

drip line

Soak area

IrrigationemitterpointDiagram of a single tree

with watering system layout.

more frequent watering particularlyduring the first summer until theyhave replaced tiny root hairs lostfrom transplanting. Early morning isthe best time to water, allowing timefor the water to “soak into the soil”before temperatures rise and evapora-tion is high.

Providing adequate irrigationreally begins in the planning stage.An irrigation system should bedesigned to meet the needs of thedesired plants for establishment andespecially for the future. In order todo an adequate job, water deliverywill have to be increased as the treegets bigger. It is always beneficial fortrees to have their own line or valvewhere the water can be adjustedspecifically for the trees needs ratherthan relying on irrigation from thelawn or other landscaped areas.

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HHOOWW MMUUCCHH WWAATTEERR DDOOEESSYYOOUURR LLAAWWNN NNEEEEDD??

EETT IISS YYOOUURR NNUUMMBBEERREvapotranspiration (ET) is a

weather-based tool used to estimatedaily water loss by plants and the sur-rounding soil, which needs to bereplaced by irrigation water.Washington County is a semi-aridclimate and generally receives about 8inches of precipitation each year. Ourlawns require more than that tothrive, but they may not need asmuch as we give them.

The ET number is part of a goodlawn care system. It will help deter-mine how much water your turf grassneeds.

ET, or Evapotranspiration, is oneof the most important things to con-sider when scheduling run times foryour irrigation system. An efficientirrigation scheduling technique is toreadjust your system run times tomatch the actual plant water needs.

To use the ET number, you’llneed to know how much water yoursprinkler system delivers and yoursoil condition.

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Start the process by setting out atleast four containers in the area of theyard to be evaluated. These contain-ers can be any straight-sided contain-er like a soup, orange juice can, orwater audit cups. The irrigation sys-

tem is run for 15 minutes. Thencompare the amount of water in thecontainers. If the containers all haveabout the same amount of water, thesystem is performing satisfactorily. Ifone of the containers has consider-ably more or less water than the oth-ers, the system is not applying thewater evenly. Repairs or adjustmentsare made and the test is repeated toassure that the irrigation system isapplying water uniformly.

The homeowner then markseither a 1/2-inch or 5/8-inch depthon the containers, depending uponhistoric ET data. Then turn on thewater and observe how long it takesto fill the containers to the marks.You now know how long the systemshould be run each irrigation to applyeither 1/2-inch or 5/8-inch of water.To prevent runoff from slopedground or from soils that absorbwater slowly, the time required to fillthe containers to the marks is dividedby three so the water can be appliedin three, shorter applications. Forexample, in one test it took 15 min-utes to fill the containers to themarks. Dividing 15 minutes by 3equals 5 minutes. The irrigation sys-tem would then be run for three 5-minute periods separated by 1-hoursoak periods. This strategy works forall soil types.

It is preferable to water for alonger time every 3-4 days than to

HHOOWW MMUUCCHH WWAATTEERR DDOOEESSYYOOUURR LLAAWWNN NNEEEEDD??

Turn on sprinkler about February15, depending upon warm weather.Slowly, deeply and periodically watertrees, shrubs and flowers during thesummer. They need deep, regularwatering every 7-10 days. Be sure towater these plants and your grass inthe winter, especially if it has beenwarm, dry and windy. Pay specialattention to south and southwest fac-ing slopes. “Winter kill” is usually aresult of not enough water duringwarm, windy weather.

CCAANN SSOOIILL MMAAKKEE AA DDIIFFFFEERREENNCCEE??Yes! Soils in

Southern Utahvary greatly.Desert soils arealmost totallyvoid of organicmatter. They are

often high in sand or clay, but theygenerally lack the nutrients plantsneed for growth and development.To receive the greatest benefit fromthe ET program, you should knowsomething about your soil. You candetermine the kind of soil you haveby making this simple test.• Pick up a moist ball (not wet!) of

soil and squeeze it.• Does it feel smooth or sticky? Can

you roll it into a pencil shape? If so,it probably contains a considerableamount of CLAY.

• Is it smooth, slick, somewhat grittyand sticky? Does it form a ball thatwon’t hold together? If so, it’s prob-ably a mixture of sand and clay(sometimes called LOAM).

37

water a little bit every day. Youshould train your grass roots to golooking for water rather than theroots staying near the top alwaysexpecting the easy drink.

Water deeper & less frequently by applying 1 inch

of water every 4 days

Remember that healthy grass willhelp defend weeds and insects.

Local ET numbers can be foundon the Internet @ WWW.DIXIE-GARDNER.ORG

TTIIMMEERR CCHHAARRTTSave Water -

Reset your sprinkler s timerYou can save up to 50% of lawn

irrigation water by following thisgraph. Instead of once-a-year set-tings, your timer needs to be changedaccording to these standards.

Days between Month wateringJAN 15 daysFEB 7 - 10 daysMAR 7 - 10 days

APRIL 4 - 5 daysMAY 3 - 4 daysJUNE 3 - 4 daysJULY 3 - 4 daysAUG 3 - 4 daysSEPT 5 - 7 daysOCT 7 - 10 daysNOV 10 - 14 daysDEC 15 days

38

• Or is it loose and gritty, impossibleto form a a ball? This soil is SAND.

• For more information on soil test-ing: contact the WashingtonCounty/Utah State UniversityExtension Office, 197 EastTabernacle (County AdministrationBuilding), St. George, Utah, 84770.You can also reach them at (435)628-5815.

Soils take up water at differentrates. Considerable water is wasted byapplying water too fast (clay) or toolong (sand).

In General:• Clay soils absorb only about 1/4

inch of water in an hour.• Sandy soils absorb as much as 2

inches of water in an hour.• Clay and sand mixtures absorb an

amount in between.

What Will Improve Sand and ClaySoils?

Both sand and clay may benefitfrom short periods of watering.

If you apply water at the ET rateand find that your grass is browningor water is running off, adjust yourwatering time. You may want toimprove your soil condition as well.

Tilling. Mixing with other soils.Spading. Digging. Aerating. Whenyou are planting a new lawn, breakup the soil. Add organic materialsuch as compost, manure or 1-3inches of organic fine, well compost-ed material found at the WashingtonCounty landfill, and the St. GeorgeCity Green Reuse Center located at

575 E. Brigham Road, and till to adepth of 6 to 8 inches. This productis a combination of urban greenwaste and biosolids. Green waste isground-up wood, leaves, grass clip-pings, etc. Biosolids are waste fromthe sewage treatment plant. The twoare combined and composted tomake a dark, rich organic amend-ment suitable for improving soil con-ditions. The cost of this compost is$30.00 a ton. They will load yourtruck and weigh it to determine thecost of your load.

The soil under an existing lawncan be improved by aeration whichmakes holes in the surface of yourlawn for air and water to penetrate.Such techniques as plug pullingrequire special equipment. You canrent this equipment or have a land-scape contractor do the job for you.

Here are some suggestions to helpyou get the most from the ETguidelines:• Check your sprinkler’s perfor-

mance. Are there areas that aren’tgetting watered? Your system mayneed adjusting. Make sure you arenot watering streets and sidewalks.Avoid wasting water by putting iton non-growing surfaces!

• Let your grass grow a little longerto 3-1/2" and mow only 1/3 of theblade length at a time. Then, eitherleave your grass clippings on thelawn or put them in a compostheap. Lawn clippings put anunnecessary burden on landfillsites. If you leave them on the yardor compost them, you get more

benefit from the nitrogen you paidfor when you bought fertilizer!

• Water only in the early morningwhen you lose less water to evapo-ration.

• Don’t water when the wind is blowing.

• Any sprinkler which applies waterclose to the ground in large drops ismore efficient than one which pro-duces a fine mist and/or shootswater high in the air.

• Mulch your planting beds heavily(with organic material such aswood chips or bark). Not only willthis keep weeds at bay, it will keepyour roots cool and your soil moist-saving your back and your water!

• And remember - your neighbor-hood may have had more rain thanwas detected by our ET weatherstation.... or less. Watch your lawnfor signs of drying. If it doesn’tneed water, don’t water it. If itneeds water, water it! After all, ETis a guide. ET canhelp you waterefficiently, but itcan’t know yourown yard like youdo.

ET is reallyabout efficiency -the wise use of water,time and energy.The ET guidelinescan:• Conserve water.• Improve the over-

all health andappearance of thelawn.

• Save time and money spent oninefficient lawn care.

For more information, call:Conservation Coordinator René Fleming 674-4432

email: rsfleming@infowest.com

USU Washington Extension Office 652-5815

Washington County Water ConservancyDistrict 673-4896

City of St. George, Parks Maintenance Division 634-5869

Look to the following sources foryour daily ET numbers:

NewspaperThe Spectrum 674-6200

Internet www.dixiegardner.org

Woodward School. Donor: Archie Wallis.

39

Frost- Min. ColdUSDA Sunset Free Norm Record Hardy

Location Elevation Frost Dates Zone Zone Days Temp. Min. Code

St. George 2,624 Mar. 26, Nov. 1 8 10 216 27 -11

Hurricane 3,287 Apr. 12, Oct. 25 7 10, 3A 196 25 -2

Orderville 5,460 May 21, Oct. 3 5 2A 135 16 -25

Veyo 4,475 May 2, Oct. 10 6 3A 168 24 -10

New Harmony 5,310 May 11, Oct. 10 6 2B 151 20 -19

Enterprise 5,346 June 8, Sept. 14 5 1A 98 11 -34

Cedar City 5,610 May 19, Oct. 2 5 2A 135 17 -26

Zion Nat’l Park 4,050 April 15, Nov. 1 7 3A 200 28 -15

Mesquite, NV 1597 March 28, Nov. 3 8 10 238 49 NA

Kanab 4925 May 4, Oct. 23 7 3A 171 21 NA

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

St. George 40 46 53 61 70 79 86 83 75 63 50 41

Hurricane 39 45 51 58 66 76 81 80 72 50 48 40

Orderville 31 36 40 48 57 66 72 71 63 53 41 33

Veyo 36 40 44 51 60 70 76 74 66 56 44 36

New Harmony 32 37 42 49 58 67 74 72 64 54 42 34

Enterprise 26 32 39 46 54 63 70 69 60 49 37 28

Cedar City 30 35 40 48 56 67 74 72 63 52 40 31

Zion Nat'l Park 40 45 50 58 67 78 84 82 75 63 50 41

Mesquite, NV 50 53 59 67 75 83 88 88 79 66 54 46

Kanab 34 40 44 52 60 69 75 73 67 56 44 36

PPllaannttiinngg && FFrroosstt IInnffoorrmmaattiioonnPPllaannttiinngg && FFrroosstt IInnffoorrmmaattiioonn

AAvveerraaggee MMoonntthhllyy TTeemmppeerraattuurreessAAvveerraaggee MMoonntthhllyy TTeemmppeerraattuurreess

40

V

M

M

M

M

V

V

V

V

V

BBooookkss,, TTrreeee CCaarree,, aanndd WWeebbssiitteessBBooookkss,, TTrreeee CCaarree,, aanndd WWeebbssiitteessWestern Garden Book

Sunset Editors, paperback, 624pages, Sunset Books Inc, 1995.www.sunset.com

Plants for Dry Climates: How toSelect, Grow and Enjoy

Mary Rose Duffield, Warren D.Jones, paperback, 216 pp,2001.

Desert Gardening: Fruits &Vegetables

George Brookbanks, paper-back, Perseus Books Group,July 1988. www.perseusbooks-group.com

Desert Gardener's Calendar:Your Month-by-Month Guide

George Brookbanks, paper-back, 159 pp. Univ of ArizonaPress, August 1999.uapress.arizona.edu

Desert Landscaping: How toStart & Maintain a HealthyLandscape in the Southwest.

George Brookbanks, paper-back, Univ of Arizona Press,Sept. 1992. uapress.arizona.edu

Gathering the DesertGary Paul Nabhan, paperback,Univ of Arizona Press, 209 pp,1985. uapress.arizona.edu

Gardening in Dry ClimatesScott Millard, Cedric Crocker,Paperback, Meredith Books,October 1989. meredith.com

Landscape Planning for EnergyConservation

Gary O. Robinette, CharlesMcClenon, 224 pp, 1983.

Tree Basics Alex Shigo, Shigo and Trees,Associates, paperback, 1996.

A New Tree Biology Alex Shigo, hardcover, 619 pp,Shigo & Trees, Assoc., 1986.

Modern ArboricultureAlex Shigo, hardcover, 424 pp,Shigo and Trees, 1991.

Tree Pruning: A WorldwidePhoto Guide

Alex Shigo, paperback, 186 pp,Shigo and Trees, 1989.

New Tree Health Alex Shigo, paperback, Shigo &Trees, Associates, 1989.

Five Minute Tree Care Alex L. Shigo, paperback, 8 pp,Shigo & Trees, Assoc., 1992.

Earth-Friendly Desert GardeningCathy L. Cromell, paperback,Arizona Master Gardeners Inc,May 2003.

Collins Tree GuideDavid More, Owen Johnson, hardcover, Collins, September2004. www.harpercollins.com

Landscape Plants for WesternRegions

Bob Perry, Land Design Pub.,318 pp, 1992.

The Ortho Problem Solver,Sixth Edition

Michael McKinley, hardcover,871 pp, Meredith Books, March2003. meredith.com

Landscaping to Save Water inthe Desert

David G. Harbison, Eric A.Johnson, Museum of NewMexico Press, 1985.

Southwestern Landscaping thatSaves Energy and Water

McPherson, E. Gregory andCharles Sacamano, 64 pp. Univ.of Arizona, 1989. cals.arizona.edu

Southwestern Landscapingwith Native Plants

Judith Phillips, paperback, 160pp, Museum of New MexicoPress, 1987.

Successful Gardening withLimited Water

Margaret Tipton Wheatly, 128 pp,Woodbridge Press Pub. Co; 1978.

Taylor's Guide to Water-SavingGardening

Gordon P. Dewolf, paperback,447 pp, Houghton Mifflin, 1990.

Water Conservation in LandscapeDesign and Management

Gary O. Robinette, hardcover,Thomson Learning, Nov. 1984.

Waterwise GardeningLauren Springer, paperback,Macmillan General Reference,January 1994.

The Complete Encyclopedia ofTrees and Shrubs

Ernie Wasson, hardcover, 928pp, Thunder Bay Press, 2003.

The Complete Encyclopedia ofGarden Flowers

Kate Bryant, hardcover, 704 pp,Thunder Bay Press, 2003.

Waterwise Landscaping withTrees, Shrubs & Vines

Jim Knopf, paperback, ChamisaBooks, 1999.

Web SitesShade Tree & BeautificationBoard www.ci.st-george.ut.usUtah Community ForestCouncil www.ucfc-isauc.orgUtah State University

extension.usu.edu/cooperativeInternational Society ofArboriculture

www.isa-arbor.comStar Nursery

www.starnursery.comDesert Watering Guide -Phoenix www.desertgardensnursery. com/WateringGuidelineSouthern Nevada WaterAuthority www.snwa.comEducational Web Site

www.treetures.comSlow the Flow

www.slowtheflow.orgSouthwest Trees and Turf

www.swtreesandturf.comThe Irrigation Association

www.ia.orgGardeners Web Sites

www.dixiegardener.orgwww.gardenweb.com

Tree Informationwww.treesaregood.comwww.treedictionary.comwww.treeutah.org www.chesco.com/~treeman/SHIGO

Xeriscape Informationwww.xeriscape.org

U of A College of Agricultureag.arizona.edu

Urban Forestry Resourcewww.treelink.org

Texas A & M Horticulture Ext.Office

aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/publications.html

41

RReessoouurrccee GGrroouuppss && AAggeenncciieessRReessoouurrccee GGrroouuppss && AAggeenncciieessWASHINGTON COUNTY EXTENSION AGENT (435) 628-5815197 E. Tabernacle, St. George, UT 84770 extension.usu.edu/cooperative

The local arm of the State Extension Service offers classes and workshops for homeowners andprofessionals covering many aspects of gardening and home care. Also, it provides a telephonehotline for questions on gardening in Southern Utah. Extension Agent Rick Hefelbower (628-5815) participates in a number of community education programs and also writes a very usefulgardening column for the Wednesday Spectrum. The sponsor of the Master Gardener Program.

UTAH DIVISION OF FORESTRY/SOUTHWESTERN AREA (435) 586-4408585 N. Main, Cedar City, UT 84720

Primarily geared to the management of State range and forest resources, the Division of Forestryalso helps local landowners with conservation and tree-related problems. It is also quite activewith education programs in schools for students and teachers, including Project Learning Tree.

UTAH DIVISION OF AGRICULTURE197 E. Tabernacle, St. George, UT 84770

This broad reaching agency is of most interest to homeowners in two of its functions: insectidentification and nursery regulation. You can bring a specimen of any insect (properly con-strained) to the Division to find our what it is. Please call for collection details. They also licenseand regulate local retail nurseries and consumers have recourse through the Division if they feelthey have been defrauded or improperly dealt with.

ST. GEORGE SHADE TREE & BEAUTIFICATION BOARD (435) 634-5869340 East 200 South, St. George, UT 84770 www.ci.st-george.ut.us

An organization to promote appreciation and proper care and maintenance of Southern Utah’surban and community forests. Provides education opportunities to the community, and is anadvisory board to the City’s Forestry Program.

STATE TREE NURSERY (801) 571-0900Lone Peak Conservation Nursery Fax (801) 571-146814650 South Prison Road, Draper, UT 84020

This branch of the Utah Division of Forestry grows native and adapted plants in small sizes foruse in conservation and reclamation. Property owners with an acre or more can qualify to buyplant material for these purposes.

WATER CONSERVANCY DISTRICT (435) 673-4896136 North 100 East, St. George, UT 84770 www.conservewater.com

Xeriscape means dryscape or low water-use landscaping. Xeriscapes are designed through wiseplanning, plant and construction materials selection, and proper installation to provide beauti-ful water efficient and low maintenance landscape.

BUREAU OF LAND MANAGEMENT (435) 688-3246345 E. Riverside Dr., St. George, UT 84770

INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY OF ARBORICULTURE (217) 355-9411P.O. Box GG, Savoy, IL 61874-9902 www.isa-arbor.com

Organization that tests and certifies arborists. I.S.A. also serves as a source of information forarborists and tree people.

42

HHooww YYoouu CCaann HHeellpp…HHooww YYoouu CCaann HHeellpp…This booklet has presented a large amount of information on many

aspects of choosing, planting and caring for trees and has listed resources andagencies that are involved in tree planting and care. How can you help? Hereis a checklist of things you can do to make our Southern Utah home a betterand greener place to live:

• If you own or manage a business, plant a tree there. If youdon’t, try to get your employer to plant a tree.

• Buy a living Christmas Tree this year. If you don’t have a placeto plant it after Christmas, donate it for public planting.

• Take time to teach your children about trees, including thosein your neighborhood.

• Work with your local school to plant a tree on campus.• Volunteer for local tree planting and education projects such

as Arbor Day, 4th of July, Armistice Day, Flag Day, etc.• Visit a local botanical garden to educate yourself about gar-

dening in Southern Utah.• Get your church, scout groups, or community groups

involved in tree planting and education.• Question elected and appointed officials about their attitudes

toward trees, open space, parks & environmental protection.

WWhhaatteevveerr yyoouu ddoo,, tthhee mmoosstt iimmppoorrttaanntt tthhiinngg ttoo rreemmeemmbbeerr iiss

PPLLAANNTT AA TTRREEEE!!!!

43

With power poles located down the center of the road, trees never interfered with power lines. St. GeorgeBoulevard looking west toward “Airport Hill.” Donor: Archie Wallis.