OS85.COVER FINAL.indd 1 2/21/18 2:48 PM · 6 / OPEN SKIES Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box...

OS85.COVER_FINAL.indd 1 2/21/18 2:48 PM

6 / OPEN SKIES

Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE

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OBAID HUMAID AL TAYER

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

IAN FAIRSERVICE

MANAGING PARTNER & GROUP EDITOR

GINA JOHNSON [email protected]

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

GROUP EDITORMARK EVANS [email protected]

SENIOR EDITORANDREW NAGY [email protected]

SENIOR DESIGNERROUI FRANCISCO [email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS

MUSTUFA ABIDI, IAIN AKERMAN, CHARLIE CARVER, EMMA COILER, BEN EAST, GARY EVANS, SARAH FREEMAN, CAROLYN STRITCH, REBECCA MATTHEWSCOVER: AFRA ATIQ

DIGITAL ANIMATORSURAJIT DUTTA [email protected]

SUB EDITORSALIL KUMAR [email protected]

SENIOR ART DIRECTOROLGA PETROFF [email protected]

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT LONDRESA FLORES [email protected]

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EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

133,095 copies

January – June 2017

Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

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CONTENTS

B R I E F I N G

78SMART GATE, VISA AND COMFORT

88THE FLEET

74INSIDE EMIRATES

84ROUTE MAP

90CELEBRITYDIRECTIONS

76DESTINATION

72NEWS

I N T R O

45COLUMN

18TASTE

24TRAVEL ESSENTIAL

30NEIGHBOURHOOD

20STAY

14EXPERIENCE

26DISPATCH

36THE YEAR OF ZAYED

F E A T U R E S

48AN IMPRESSION OF THE FUTURE

55THE WORD

62THE MEXICAN (R)EVOLUTION

38LUNCH WITH


OPEN SKIES / 11

The world poetry champion, Harry Baker, described slam poetry as “tricking people into going to a poetry event by putting an exciting word in front of it”. I can see where he’s coming from.

At school, the subject left me a little cold. The sombre war poetry of Wilfred Owen, the obscure verse of Dylan Thomas… it didn’t really speak to me.

But perhaps it’s simply about context. Substitute Owen and Thomas for Gil Scott-Heron and Mark E Smith and I’m hooked. It could be the topic, maybe the delivery, but their spoken word was very different for me.

Now, thanks largely to social media, poetry is enjoying record book sales and the warm glow of a renaissance, which is why it will play such a big role at this month’s Emirates Airline Festival of Literature.

To an outsider, slam poetry is like a rap battle, only geekier. Actually, it’s probably like that to an insider, too, but the young rebel poets who have popularised this 30-year-old art form have undoubtedly made it cool, too. It’s about life and love and loss and leotards (sometimes). It’s not the poetry of your youth but a simpler version, a verbal shot in the arm.

So, for that reason alone, it’s worth heading to Dubai Opera this month to see the poets featured in this month’s issue in For the Love of Words on March 6. It’s poetry, but cool. Just ask Harry Baker.

ALSO AVAILABLE ON YOUR IPAD

ON THE COVER

THE POWER OF VERSETo celebrate this month’s Emirates Airline Festival of Literature and its love of poetry, our cover is written by Emirati slam poet Afra Atiq, and depicts a page from her notepad.

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SOCIAL MEDIA

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instagram.com/openskiesmag

ANDREW NAGYSENIOR EDITOR

EDITOR’S NOTE


IntroNEIGHBOURHOOD

EXPERIENCE • TASTE • STAY • DISPATCH • NEIGHBOURHOODI N T R O

Don your finery and head to the world’s richest horse race.

MEYDAN RACECOURSE, DUBAI, UAE DUBAIWORLDCUP.COM

DUBAI WORLD CUP

Turn over to plan your month

MAR. 31

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EXPERIENCE

THE PLAN Events to aim for this month

Dubai Fashion Week began in 2006 – how has Arab fashion developed since then?Fashion is constantly evolving and Arab fashion is no different. Over the years it has incorporated an aesthetic that reflects a balance of style and modesty.What were those early DFW shows like?In the early days there was almost a clear delineation between Arabic and western designs but, gradually, you could see that both sides were being influenced by each other’s work.How has DFW helped raise the profile of Arab designers?We believe that having a real and authentic “Fashion Week” raises the profile of not only the designers, but of the region itself. It also further cements Dubai’s reputation as being the fashion capital of the Arab world. How is DFW perceived on the international scene?It’s been a while since we had the DFW (the last was 2011), so all eyes are really on us right now. We’re confident that we will exceed all expectations.What are the long-term aims of DFW?We want the next stop on the fashion week circuit, following New York, London, Milan and Paris, to be Dubai, showcasing twice a year to media, buyers and private clientele.What can we expect from DFW 2018?We are Dubai Fashion Week and, like the city itself, expect it to be bigger and brighter than anything else.But this isn’t just a series of fashion shows, right?Fashion is a multibillion-dollar industry, and we want to pay homage to the people that work on the business side as well, so expect several discussions on all of the facets of the job.So why should we visit DFW?If you love fashion, art and culture, if you enjoy learning about an industry in the most glamorous and interactive setting, then we’ll see you at DFW.

DUBAI, UAE | DFW.AE

WORDS: Andrew Nagy

Hot on the heels of New York, London, Milan and Paris, Dubai is now a mainstay of the fashion calendar, say the DFW team

DUBAI FASHION WEEK

MAR. 15-17

Love fashion? Check out Lifestyle TV on ice for

programmes from Fashion One and episodes of TLC’s Say Yes to the Dress.

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EXPERIENCE

MAR. 1-10

EMIRATES AIRLINE FESTIVAL OF LITERATUREThe biggest celebration of the written and spoken word in the Middle East features 200 industry sessions as well as 170 bestselling authors, ranging from Noura Al Noman to David Walliams.

DUBAI, UAE | EMIRATESLITFEST.COM

FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION…

MAR. 17

ST PATRICK’S DAY One of the most widely celebrated feast days around the world, you should aim for Dublin, New York or Montreal if you’re looking for the best festivities. Expect parades, céilithe and a record number of sore heads on March 18.

GLOBAL

UNTIL APR. 8

WINNIE-THE-POOHAA Milne’s beloved children’s tales are iconic, and so are the illustrations by EH Shepard that accompany them. Winnie-The-Pooh: Exploring A Classic at London’s V&A Museum has the sketches, letters and cartoons behind its legend.

LONDON, UK | VAM.AC.UK

MAR. 9-18

WINTER PARALYMPICSWhile politics may have dominated the headlines at this year’s Winter Olympics, the XII Paralympic Winter Games will focus purely on the competition, as 80 medal events are contested by 550 athletes.

PYEONGCHANG, SOUTH KOREA |

PYEONGCHANG2018.COM


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EXPERIENCE

MICHAEL KEATONThe star of the iconic fantasy-comedy, Beetlejuice, on its 30th anniversary

in “all times and in all spaces” and it just kicked on from there. I got wardrobe to send me a rack of random outfits from different eras, and then make up were really creative – Ve Neill, Steve LaPorte, and Robert Short would eventually go on to win the Academy Award for it. Finally, we ended up with the finished article. It’s a little piece of artIf we can get the sequel right then great; but if not, don’t touch it.If I could torment any global figure in the style of Beetlejuice?No comment – but it might not be too difficult to guess who I’d pick.

Beetlejuice has endured for 30 years because of its originality There was nothing quite like it before, and there’s been nothing quite like it since. I just didn’t understand it to begin withI didn’t really know what Tim [Burton] was trying to do, but I really liked him and his creativity. So we had a few more phone conversations, then a dinner, and I started to build up a bigger picture in my mind of what it was all about. The great thing was that the initial pitch was never clear in my mind – so it’s not like I was working from something definite. The movie evolved organically.

For another great performance from Michael Keaton, check out the Oscar-winning movie Birdman, showing in Film Club on today’s flight.

MAR. 29

Batman and Beetlejuice are both iconic roles Obviously different actors have played Batman over the years and done excellent jobs of it – but there has only ever been one Beetlejuice.Tim had the idea for the striped suit and I had the idea for the hair Other than that we developed the character as we went. Because the idea wasn’t really clear, it was actually quite freeing. Nobody could say that he isn’t the way he was supposed to be – because nobody knew.I had so much creative helpTim told me Beetlejuice existed

Where to watch it

March 26

Funzing Pop-Up Cinema, Elephant and Castle, London

UK.FUNZING.COM

TIME MANAGEMENTBeetlejuice became a legend in only 17 minutes of screen time. Here’s how to manage your minutes in Dubai this month

15 MINS.

1+ HRS.

30 MINS.

Beach Canteen Until Mar. 10

VISITDUBAI.COM

XYoga Dubai Mar. 16-17

XYOGADUBAI.COM

Rag’n’Bone Man Mar. 23

DUBAIOPERA.COM

Hope you’re hungry

Time to get

stretching

Ditch the tux

BEETLEJUICEBEETLEJUICEBEETLEJUICE


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TASTE

This is a Supper Club, not a restaurant. It’s an exclusive shared experience to celebrate hospitality and conviviality and is so much more than a common table, it’s a feast of people and food. We chose a pop-up at The Maine Oyster Bar and Grill because it has a homely, cozy vibe similar to the atmopshere we try and achieve at our supper clubs elsewhere. We’re from Northern Italy, so expect to try some classic Italian regional dishes that feature the food culture of our birthplace mixed with Southern Italy and an added international twist.

1. The décorBB is unlike its competitors at DIFC, from the foliage that almost hides the entrance to the three compact floors connected by a spiral staircase and twoalfresco dining areas.

2. The atmosphereLabelled social dining, the setting is relaxed and the staff are, well, cool – which genuinely adds to the experience. The soundtrack is also a bonus, featuring ’80s and ’90s classics.

3. The foodFar East meets West meets Middle East. The selection of baos is a must – whether filled with softshell crab, crispy duck or as a baonut with Chantilly cream on the side for dessert.

A SOCIAL SPEAKEASYThree reasons to get excited by BB Social Dining

The Bloomsbury hotel is on your page

Edwin Lutyens’ Grade II-listed neo-Georgian building (now The Bloomsbury hotel) sits amongst antiquarian bookshops in central London. Its signature dining spot, The Coral Room, is perfect for those in search of a literary luncheon.

The restaurant retains the panelled walls of the original building and combines them with a vivid coral backdrop, five bespoke Murano glass chandeliers and 36 original pieces of art by Luke Edward Hall.

When it comes to the menu, the lobster and crayfish mac ‘n’ cheese deserves special mention, as does the cocktail list. But our advice is to simply sit back, relax, order some fabulous food and pretend you’re a literary bigshot.LONDON, UK | DOYLECOLLECTION.COM

LITERARY LUNCH

LONDON DUBAI

MA’ HIDDEN KITCHENThe travelling Italian kitchen experience hits Dubai

DUBAI, UAE, GATE VILLAGE 8, DIFC | THISISBB.COM

Looking to travel to Italy? Emirates serves four Italian destinations – Rome, Milan,

Venice and Bologna.

We’ll serve the five different flavours. That means bitter, sweet, savoury, spicy and umami, as well as different textures such as liquid, solid and crunchy. This is a social event. We want you to meet new people and experience new food.If you’re stuck for conversation, talk about the food and the reasons that you joined our supper club in the first place. DUBAI, UAE | MAR. 19-24 ONLY | MAHKSC.COM

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As far as zeitgeist movements go, the Ace Hotel New York is definitely on to something.

It is one of several branded city lodgings from the sartorial-

leaning Ace Hotel Group, a company intent on setting aside everything we once thought about good New York hotels – that taste equals expense and style arrives via silver service.

In fact, here, taste arrives in a takeaway cup from a hipster barista and the only silver in sight is the sea of illuminated MacBook’s attached to the professional day-trippers who congregate en masse in the hotel lobby.

It’s a place where you’re just as likely to find a floppy-haired tech millionaire rubbing shoulders with a trio of twenty-somethings from Tokyo wearing brands you’ve never heard of by designers who only sell on Instagram.

They’re huddled here to network for a few hours and suck up some of the creative energy (along with their cold-pressed brew from the adjoining Stumptown Coffee Roasters) that permeates the public spaces of this achingly hip hotel.

Fuelling the lobby’s dimly lit, all-day-cocktail-hour vibe, there’s the Breslin Bar & Dining Room and John Dory Oyster Bar that draw a youthful Midtown crowd as well as a photo booth, a gallery space and a branded merchandise store.

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MILLENNIAL STATE OF MINDFrom its accidental co-working space to the Martin guitar in your room, Ace Hotel New York has tapped the millennial market in every way that counts

There are free DJ nights all week and events of cultural relevance such as micro art fairs. The hotel even streams live music on SoundCloud.

Upstairs, the rooms ooze urban cred styled with Ace’s signature vintage and reconditioned furniture, ranging from novelty bunk rooms to loft suites.

But it’s the Martin acoustic guitar casually propped up in the corner of the room that defines the unspoken desire of many a millennial drawn to this city: when in New York, everyone wants to be a rock star. NYC, USA | ACEHOTEL.COM

USA

Emirates offers multiple daily flights to New York through JFK and Newark via Athens.

NEW YORK CITY

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STAY

NOTABLE NEIGHBOURSWhere to shop within a block

LE LABO Freshly compounded

androgynous fragrances.LELABOFRAGRANCES.

COM

1PROJECT NO. 8

A travel, design and hotel shop with

great gifts.PROJECTNO8.COM

2OPENING CEREMONY

Retail for travelling creative professionals

and adventurers.OPENINGCEREMONY.COM

3RUDY’S BARBERSHOP Quality cuts, affordable prices and an authentic communal atmosphere.

RUDYSBARBERSHOP.COM

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STAY

Located in the heart of Jakarta’s financial and diplomatic district, the award-winning Mandarin Oriental

hotel is a stylish antidote to the concrete jungle and traffic-frenzied chaos outside its doors.

Stage one of your transition to Zen occurs on entering its luminous lobby, complete with mirrored pillars and handcrafted marble flooring. Stage two is being ushered, welcome drink in hand, to its freeform outdoor pool on the fifth floor, ensconced in lush, tropical gardens.

If the hotel’s VIP patrons (which include the Obamas and Scandinavian royalty) are anything to go by, its 2009 multimillion-dollar renovation has paid off. With 272 rooms and suites, you can plump for a sleek and spacious, light-filled corner room with dramatic skyline views, or a colonial-styled den, dressed in dark teak panelling and sumptuous fabrics. All exude the brand’s benchmark Oriental heritage.

Escape the city noise with a hotel that delivers impeccable service, show-stopping interiors and heaps of fine-dining flair

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A JAVANESE RETREATINDONESIA

sculptor Lasvit, to the exquisite gilded glass art-work A Voyage of the South, inspired by the ancient spice trade between China and Batavia (old Jakarta). One thing is for sure, when your time comes to head back out into the city, you’ll be ready to tackle the hustle head-on. MANDARINORIENTAL.COM

Its foodie credentials aren’t too shabby either, and guests can indulge in haute French fare at Lyon, or modern Cantonese cuisine at newly unveiled Li Feng, which is causing quite a buzz in the capital.

There are plenty of visual distractions too, from the seascape chandelier crafted by Czech crystal

JAKARTA Emirates offers multiple daily flights to Jakarta and Bali.

ELEGANT ENTRÉESWho said dumplings can’t be works of art? For a delicacy with a side order of drama, request Chef Loy’s deep-fried miniature Black Swan Dumplings. With the help of a teapot and lots of dry ice, the tasty morsels of minced black-pepper duck-filled dim sum are transformed into swans floating on a misty lake.

WORDS: Sarah Freeman IMAGES: Mandarin Oriental Jakarta

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ESSENTIALS

Emirates flies daily

to Nice with the Airbus A380.

Vilebrequin Luxe Primitive Nomad collection shorts, US$260VILEBREQUIN.COM

FEATURING

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THE SHORTS THE BEACHAs many of us hide from sub-zero temperatures with an upturned collar or fi rmly closed door, the mind naturally turns to warmer climes. Beach holidays, jet-skis, time spent reading a book in a fl imsy hammock, that sort of thing. For those dreamers we recommend the Luxe Primitive Nomad collection by Vilebrequin.

There are many things to love about the brand founded by photographer and sports car journalist Fred Prysquel in St Tropez 47 years ago. From the way it was based on the long shorts of the surfers, to the fact those shorts were designed to dry quickly in the sun, to how Vilbrequin is actually a car term translating as ‘crankshaft’ in English (it sounds way better in French).

This collection inspired by primitive art – from prehistoric cave paintings to the work of American painter Jean-Michel Basquiat – will not only up your beach game in an instant, but also help banish those memories of the cold that you’re looking to leave behind.

A NEW CUTIn 1971, Vilebrequin founder, Fred Prysquel, drew and cut out his dream shorts from a paper table cloth in a St Tropez café.

The prints in the collection play on the four elements.

PRIMAL PLAY

The designs are inspired by the iconic American graffi ti artist, Jean-Michel Basquiat.

ART-INSPIRED

1

DubaiTemperatures nudge past the 30°C mark during March, so head to the new beach development, La Mer, for a combination of beach, retail and cafe culture.

2

Cape VerdeFound on an archipelago of 10 volcanic islands in the central Atlantic Ocean, the 25.7°C March average is perfect for kite surfi ng and sun lounging.

3

PhuketWant the high temperatures but are concerned about getting bored lazing on a beach all day? Phuket – a 33°C getaway with loads of cultural sites – is the place to visit.

BEACH HUNTThree places for those in search of the sun

For those looking to escape to warmer climes this month, we suggest a slice of South-of-France-cool

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

The designs are inspired by the iconic American iconic American graffi ti artist, graffi ti artist, Jean-Michel Jean-Michel Basquiat.Basquiat.

ART-INSPIRED

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“It began in 2007 as a 40-gallery fair with an attendance of 8,000, and the last edition brought together 94 galleries from 43 countries and welcomed 27,000 visitors,” says Art Dubai Fair Director

Myrna Ayad. “It’s engaged with the art community, locally and internationally, and is the preeminent platform for people to discover the best there is in terms of art from the Middle East, North Africa and South Asia. The diversity is unparalleled… it’s incomparable to any other art fair in the world.”

The 12th edition of the four-day Art Dubai will be the largest to date, with 104 galleries from 47 countries attending. The programme is underpinned by well-established events, such as Art Dubai Contemporary, which will feature 78 galleries from 42 countries – including first-time appearances for Iceland, Ethiopia and Kazakhstan – and Art Dubai Modern, a celebration of the work of 20th century artists from the Middle East, Africa and South Asia, featuring 16 galleries from 14 countries. It also encompasses the Art Dubai Modern Symposium, a series of talks by art curators, patrons and scholars.

The 12th edition of the Global Art Forum – the annual art summit presented by Dubai Culture and Arts Authority (Dubai Culture) –that has been a mainstay of the fair since its inception, is undoubtedly a highlight. Titled

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ART DUBAI Since its launch in 2007, Art Dubai has grown into the most prominent art fair in the Middle East, helping drive Dubai’s rapid evolution into a cultural powerhouse in the region

UAE

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DISPATCHES

I Am Not A Robot and with a programme put together by Commissioner Shumon Basar and his Co-Directors – Chief Operating Officer and Futurist-in-Chief of the Dubai Future Foundation, Noah Raford, and Curator of Digital Culture and Design Collection at the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK), Vienna, Marlies Wirth – will explore the theme of automation

Ayad describes Art Dubai as “a place of discovery”, and The Room, an annual large-scale installation, is emblematic of the immersive nature of the fair. It is not designed purely for the static observation of artworks hanging on the white walls of hushed galleries. This year’s incarnation, titled Good Morning GCC, was created by the eight members of Khaleeji artist collective GCC, who met at Art Dubai in 2013. Good Morning GCC is a large-scale recreation of a daily daytime TV show, which will be launched with a live cooking demonstration by local celebrity wedding singer and TV chef Suliman Al Qassar.

“Art Dubai isn’t just an art fair,” explains Ayad. “It has become a platform, a nucleus, the flame that all the moths are attracted to.” And she’s right. Art Dubai is simply one of the highlights of Art Week (the seventh edition of which will take place across Dubai from March 17 to 24). It’s the spark that ignites the region’s creative community – and its light is burning brighter each year.

ART DUBAI, MADINAT JUMEIRAH, MARCH 21 TO 24 | ARTDUBAI.AE

The diaryThree must-see events at Art Dubai

GLOBAL ART FORUM This year’s edition of the annual art summit, titled I Am Not A Robot, will explore the theme of automation.

ART DUBAI RESIDENTS This new addition to Art Dubai will showcase the work of 10 artists who have undertaken a four- to eight-week residency in the UAE.

THE ROOM Khaleeji artist collective GCC present Good Morning GCC, an interactive installation that has been inspired by the daytime TV talk show format.

A simple guide to critiquing artAnybody looking for amateur critic credentials should work the industry in their area. Head to opening nights and previews, make contacts and be active – whether that’s on a blog, in print or on social media. When writing, don’t be afraid to disagree, but always remember that quality criticism should be fair and balanced – whether you love it or loathe it.

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EXPO

As part of Expo 2020 Dubai’s promise to be the most innovative World Expo in history, organisers are designing a ‘smart

site’ that will create a unique and memorable experience.

Expo 2020 is working with its partners and innovators from around the world to find smart solutions for everything from ticketing and transport to crowd management and technology-enabled volunteers.

These smart solutions could start with integrating the digital ticket payment platform with a wearable device. This would dramatically enhance the visitor experience through potential additions such as gamification, augmented and virtual reality features, VIP services and smoother crowd management and site navigation.

Based on the information visitors provide when purchasing their ticket, such as their preferred language, mode of transport, and the pavilions and events they intend to visit, Expo aims to offer a personalised experience for everybody.

The biggest event ever staged in the Middle East will not only showcase innovation but also immerse visitors in it

THE EXPO 2020 ‘SMART SITE’

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Expo 2020 is also collaborating with its partners to find the smartest crowd management technology to help provide a safer and smoother experience. This could include using specialist simulation software to model crowd behaviour, video analytics to monitor crowd numbers and anonymous tracking software.

Sensors and predictive analytics may be used to detect and disperse queues before they form, while communication technology could display any wait time.

The ‘smart site’ also applies to F&B orders, which will be made via the Expo smart phone app, and the shopping experience, which will make purchasing any of the 5,000-plus licensed products a seamless experience.

With sustainability one of Expo 2020’s three sub-themes, many of the latest innovations in sustainability will be implemented, including smart metering; waste management systems that detect when bins are nearly full; and technology that monitors and ensures the cleanliness of washrooms.

Expo’s ‘smart site’ plans show that it aspires not only to showcase the most innovative products, services and operations but to immerse visitors in a quality of life that may well become normal in the future.” EXPO2020DUBAI.COM

UAE

Hear more about this event on the Expo 2020 Dubai podcast on ice channel 1501.

More than 30,000 volunteers will be equipped with the latest smart screens with access to information that will help them provide a concierge-like service tailored to each visitor. This could include updating visitors on how to avoid queues or choose the best route through the site – all provided in the visitor’s own language.

The latest technology will be used to ensure hassle-free navigation of the 4.38-hectare site, which could include digital maps, smartphone apps and crowd analysis.

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NEIGHBOURHOOD

Referred to as “Bangkok’s Lower East Side”, much like the New York neighbourhood, Thonglor thrives on late nights and eclectic food. This once unremarkable area of car

dealerships and wedding showrooms has been transformed into a playground for entrepreneurs and experimental cuisine, thanks to an influx of investment at the turn of the millennium.

It also served as a military base for the Japanese in the 1930s, making this a favourite for Japanese expats, and spawning some superb izakaya and sashimi joints in the process. Nicknamed “Nihonmura”, or “Japantown”, Thonglor is the place to soak up Japanese culture in Bangkok – whether that’s dining in low-rent ramen bars such as Ramen Nanase, or taking a dip in one of its traditional onsen bathhouses.

A good place to get your bearings is Thonglor’s main artery, Sukhumvit Soi 55, which runs from Sukhumvit Road to Saen Saep canal – marking its north-to-south boundaries. The area spills out from here into a labyrinth of sois side streets, hiding shophouse-converted boutiques and

THAILAND

THONGLOR, BANGKOKWORDS AND IMAGES: Sarah Freeman

concept stores like Black Amber, a barbershop-slash-gentlemen’s club.

Pleasingly, for every hipster roaster and New York restobar, there is a street side satay stall or a hawker. To mingle with the locals, head to Saen Saep canal at the end of Sukhumvit Soi 55, where market life unfolds and fresh produce is hauled in on rickety long-tails. From there you can hop on one of the khlong boat taxis for just US30c – a cheap way to beat the standstill traffic.

Back on Sukhumvit Soi 55 you’ll find a slew of multilevel community malls like Arena 10 (boasting a football pitch), J Avenue and The Commons, which you can navigate between on the street’s dedicated fleet of retro-looking red buses.

If you can push through ‘til sundown, Thonglor will reward you with 360-degree city views at Octave Bar on the Marriott’s 45th floor, and (for night owls), underground music at De Commune club. Its craft drinks scene is also evolving, with cocktail-cum-live jazz bars such as Evil Man Blues and a handful of speakeasies such as Rabbit Hole. The biggest challenge you’ll have is fitting it all into 24 hours.

THE NAME GAMEFew Thais, if any, will refer to their capital city as Bangkok. This is a name that was adopted by westerners and stuck. To fit in with the locals you should call it Krungthep. To impress them, use its full title (officially the longest city name in the world)

(To really impress them, spell it)

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1.THE COMMONSBringing the Thonglor community a little bit closer to nature (and each other) is this lively neighbourhood hub, where you can eat poke and churros, practise yoga, and attend a leather-making workshop – all under one industrial-styled roof. The indoor-outdoor venue marries steel and glass with ample pockets of green that are laid out over four fluid floors: Market, Village, Play Yard and Top Yard. An eclectic crowd of students, families and cats (really) gravitate between the ground floor’s homegrown market-style eateries (all 18 of them), the Play Yard’s child-friendly lawns (with real grass), and the suntrap top floor – home to the best beans in Bangkok at Roast. Come here for its Covent Garden-style vibe and community.

335 (THONGLOR 17), 55 SUKHUMVIT RD, KLONGTAN NUE, WATTHANA, BANGKOK 10110

| +66 89 152 2677 | THECOMMONSBKK.COM

START

A FIVE-MINUTE WALK

DID YOU KNOW?Although Bangkok is famed for its street food, it’s also something of a fine dining capital. Nine of its restaurants were named in the San Pellegrino Top 50 in Asia for 2017, with two of those in the Top 10 – Gaggan at No 1 and Nahm at No 5.

Emirates offers six daily services to Bangkok.


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NEIGHBOURHOOD

2.STATEMENTShop for luxe swimwear, quirky jewellery and party frocks with a cold-pressed juice in hand, at this stylish boutique-slash-health conscious cafe, run by three fashion designer friends.

141 SOI SUKHUMVIT 49, KHLONG TAN NUEA, WATTHANA,

BANGKOK 10110 | +66 2 003 6973

3.THONGLOR MARKETIn Bangkok you don’t even need to leave the sidewalk to indulge in some of the city’s best eats. For a quintessential local market experience, follow your nose to where Sukhumvit Soi 55 crosses the Saen Saep canal, but stay this side of the bridge. There you’ll find a throng of animated noodle vendors, skillful wok cooks and overburdened trestle tables stacked with boiled blood cockles (hoi klang). There are a couple of bug stalls for adventurous epicureans, along with Bangkok’s answer to the dessert trolley – crudely wheeled carts of khanom krok (coconut griddle cakes) and khao neow dam sang kaya (black sticky rice with custard).

BETWEEN THONG LO BOAT STATION AND CHAN ISSARA

PIER ON SAEN SAEP KHLONG (DAILY)

A SIX-MINUTE MOTORCYCLE TAXI RIDE

A FOUR-MINUTE RED BUS RIDE

Bo.Lan restaurant upcycles used cooking oil and turns it into soap


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4. LET’S RELAX ONSEN AND SPAAvoid the multitude of Thai spas in favour of a Japanese onsen – you are in Bangkok’s Japantown after all. This state-of-the-art bathhouse is Bangkok’s largest, occupying the entire fifth floor of the Grande Centre Point Hotel. For US$20 of unlimited soak time, you can dip in and out of five mineral-enriched tubs, starting with the milky-textured silk bath (40 degrees) and concluding with a bracing, metabolism-boosting, 18-degree cold bath. Collapse in the hot stonebed room, before de-robing (with just a small towel to protect your modesty) to do it all over again.

GRANDE CENTRE POINT HOTEL 304, 55 KHWAENG KHLONG TAN

NUEA, KHET WATTHANA, KRUNG THEP MAHA NAKHON 10110 |

+66 2 042 8045 | LETSRELAXSPA.COM

5. PAINTBAR BANGKOKAt this industrial-cool paint-and-sip loft studio, you can unleash your inner Monet over fine wines and homemade tapas, in a two- to three-hour instructor-led class. As part of the themed sessions, groups of up to 24 people paint one subject, ranging from Picasso’s Starry Night to the nation’s famous tom yum goong dish.

13.73204, 100.57631 | KHWAENG KHLONG TAN NUEA, KHET WATTHANA, KRUNG THEP MAHA NAKHON 10110 |

PAINTBARBANGKOK.COM

Let’s Relax Onsen and Spa uses concentrated onsen powder that’s extracted from Japan’s world-famous Gero Hot Springs

A NINE-MINUTE TUK TUK RIDE


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NEIGHBOURHOOD

6. BO.LANRanked 19 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017, Michelin-starred Bo.Lan is the brainchild of Thai-Aussie power couple Chef Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava and Dylan ‘Lan’ Jones. As well as being loyal to indigenous Thai ingredients, the duo are impassioned environmentalists. Their 90 per cent organic fare, which honours age-old rituals of traditional Thai cooking, is made with veggies grown onsite and a close-to-zero carbon footprint. Set aside three hours for the five-part ‘Bo.lan Balance’ tasting menu of Thai salad, a chilli relish, soup, stir-fry and curry, served family-style. Devouring an amuse-bouche in the kitchen is a novel start to a culinary journey that crisscrosses the country, grazing on dishes like smoked Chiang Mai river trout salad and quail curry from Chachoengsao province.

24 SUKHUMVIT 53 ALLEY, KHWAENG KHLONG TAN NUEA, KHET

WATTHANA, KRUNG THEP MAHA NAKHON 10110 | +66 2 260 2962 |

BOLAN.CO.TH

7. THE IRON FAIRIESIf you like your jazz dens dark and Dickensian, this place is right up your alley. Part blacksmith workshop, part gothic Victorian boudoir, timeworn shelves of fairy dust vials line the crumbling walls, spiral staircases lead to nowhere, and tiny winged creatures shower the bar. The man behind the fantasy décor is Australian designer Ashley Sutton, a former iron-ore miner with a penchant for fairies, whose trilogy of popular children’s books inspired the venue. There’s a live band every night from 9pm, and an innovative cocktail menu curated by mixologist extraordinaire Joseph Boroski. For one of their more theatrical libations we can recommend the Smoke in a Bottle.

55 KHLONG TAN NUEA, WATTHANA, BANGKOK 10110 | +66 99 918 1600 |

THEIRONFAIRIES.COM

A FIVE-MINUTE MOTORCYCLE TAXI RIDE

AN EIGHT-MINUTE TAXI RIDE


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THE YEAR OF ZAYED

While looking to the future, Sheikh Zayed always ensured that emphasis was placed on maintaining links with the past. So,

despite a phenomenal amount of development, much of the UAE’s traditional heritage still thrives today.

What is the Year of Zayed?

To celebrate the centennial anniversary of the birth of the UAE’s founding father,

2018 will see 12 months of events to honour the life and

legacy of Sheikh Zayed.

CELEBRATING HISTORYThroughout 2018, Open Skies will honour the 100th anniversary of the birth of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. This month: how heritage gave the UAE grounding for progress

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While modern architecture graces the UAE skyline, the country’s rich Arabian heritage is protected and celebrated through a number of museums and archaeological sites. That heritage has been traced back some 7,500 years – to the late Stone Age – with excavations, encouraged

by Sheikh Zayed, in Abu Dhabi in 1959 on

the island of Umm al-Nar,

where a previously unknown Bronze Age

civilisation was discovered. The creation of heritage villages

around the UAE is another project designed to preserve knowledge of the past. These villages, which showcase traditional arts, crafts and lifestyles of the region – including replicas of pearl-diving villages and Bedu camps – are becoming tourist attractions in their own right.

In every sphere, Sheikh Zayed was instrumental in helping the people of the UAE take pride in their heritage, and this maintenance of traditional culture has undoubtedly been a stabilising factor throughout the years of dramatic change that the country has experienced.

As Sheikh Zayed once said, “A people who do not know their past can have no present and no future.”

SOURCES: SHEIKH ZAYED: LIFE AND TIMES (NOOR ALI RASHID); FATHER OF OUR NATION; THE UAE FIFTY YEARS IN PICTURES (RAMESH SHUKLA) | BOOKSARABIA.COM

Check the side of your aircraft today; it could well feature Emirates’ bespoke livery in tribute to Sheikh Zayed. A total of 10 Emirates aircraft carry the decal – five Airbus A380s and five Boeing 777-300ERs.

VISIT

MEMORIES OF A JOURNEY HAJJ – EXHIBITIONDrawing on Sheikh Zayed’s own Hajj journey in 1979, this exhibition features historic photographs and multimedia displays to highlight the experiences of Emirati pilgrims over the years, as well as exploring one of the five fundamental pillars and practices in Islam. UNTIL MARCH 19 | SHEIKH ZAYED GRAND MOSQUE CENTER, ABU DHABI

Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan (right) and Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum

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A life-changing moment for the British crime writer Mark Billingham came via a knock on a Manchester hotel

room door, almost 21 years go.He and a colleague had ordered

pizza and a beer and were sitting down to discuss the TV script they were working on when it came. Billingham thought it was room service to collect the plates. It wasn’t. “I opened the door and it was three guys in balaclavas,” he says. “They burst in, beat us up, tied us up, put bags over our heads, told us they were going to kill us and held us in there for three hours.”

The men stole mobile phones, jewellery and cash and demanded the pair’s ATM cards and pin numbers. The reason the ordeal lasted so long was they wanted to make withdrawals either side of midnight to ensure two days worth of cash. “Two of them went off and one of them stayed in the room watching us and giving us a kick occasionally if we moaned,” says Billingham. “It wasn’t like being mugged on the street. You feel safe in a hotel.”

More than two decades later and though the writer still jumps out of his skin if somebody drops a saucepan (“I shout and shake”)

WORDS: Charlie Carver IMAGES: Rebecca Matthews

MARK BILLINGHAMThe best-selling British crime writer talks writing, showing off and two incidents that changed his life, over lunch at Skewd Kitchen in Cockfosters, London

book, Sleepyhead, published in 2001, he could empathise with the victim. “I’d read a lot of crime fiction where these two juggernauts, the cop and the killer, are on this collision course, and meanwhile there’s a victim, or multiple victims, who are just plot devices,” he says. “The reader is never permitted to engage with or care about or get to know the victim. I decided the victim was going to be front and centre. In many ways the victim was the main character in my first book. Thorne

was a character I had to invent because there had to be a detective.”

I meet Billingham in Skewd Kitchen, an Anatolian restaurant in the north London suburb of Cockfosters. It’s not far from the 56-year-old’s home, where he lives with his wife and two children. He is a regular guest; he greets the staff with a smile, a handshake and a few warm words – and he is very enthusiastic about the food, recommending the two-course lunch offer (a bargain at US$15 per person).

Billingham orders sujuk and halloumi to start and the lamb shish with a side of creamy spinach for main (his usual). Following his advice, I order the chicken wings to start and then the adana with a side of coal-fired chillies for main.

We don’t discuss “the incident in Manchester” until the end of our lunch. Instead, having been presented with a large piece of Turkish lavash, a thin, firm flatbread that fills with steam

and refuses to open the door of his hotel room without proof of identity, he is otherwise recovered. But the incident made its mark on the series of crime novels he would begin a few years later; not the theft or the beating, but the fear.

“It was lying there on that floor with a bag on my head and my hands tied behind my head,” says Billingham. “I remember my heart was thumping so much I was bouncing off the carpet. It’s not scared like you are on a roller coaster or watching a horror film, it’s: ‘Am I going to see my wife and kids again? What are they going to do when this is finished? Have they got guns?’”

Thankfully, they didn’t have guns, and Billingham gained something invaluable from the experience. When he sat down to write his first

Check out Drama TV on ice for some

of the latest hit crime and suspense series such as Peaky Blinders, Gomorrah, Fargo, The X-Files and more.

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and balloons during cooking, we begin at the beginning.

Mark Billingham was born in Birmingham in 1961. His parents separated when he was six, and he and his brother were brought up by their mother, who had a job collecting the money from pub jukeboxes and fruit machines. It wasn’t a bookish household – though his mother read (Joan Collins, Harold Robbins, JacquelineSusann’s Valley of the Dolls) and took her sons to the public library – and there was no history of creativity in the family. ButBillingham was a born performer. “Iremember being told by my Mum to stop showing off constantly when I was growing up,” he says.

It was at grammar school, King Edward VI Camp Hill School for Boys, that the young show-off finally found an outlet for his talents. “It was the kind of school where you could be a bit anonymous if you weren’t a sports star or an academic star, and I was neither of those,” he says. “But then I discovered the school play.” The 12-year-old played the Artful Dodger in Oliver! “That was it, I was bitten by the bug.”

Billingham also traces his love of crime writing to this period. “We had this very eccentric maths teacher who would get bored during his own lessons,” he says. “He would get halfway through trying to teach us about equilateral triangles and he’d go, ‘God, this is tedious,’ and he had this battered old leather bag and he would pull out a copy of The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes, this dog-eared paperback, and he would read us Sherlock Holmes stories, which was fabulous.”

“I was gripped by these stories and by the character – especially by the character,” Billingham continues. “This weird man who would shoot bullet holes in the

wall and played the violin. I just thought it was the most amazing thing I had ever come across.”

The starters arrive. The chicken wings are as good as promised, the tender meat infused with the flavour of the charcoal grill and a spicy marinade and sliding easily off the bone, and Billingham devours his thick slabs of spicy beef sausage and halloumi like a man who knew what he wanted and has got it. He will later do

the same with his lamb shish. Billingham graduated from

the University of Birmingham with a BA in Drama and Theatre Arts in 1983, formed socialist theatre company Bread & Circuses and went on to play minor roles in television shows including Dempsey and Makepeace, Juliet Bravo, Boon, The Bill, Birds of a Feather, Spitting Image and Tony Robinson’s children’s sitcom Maid Marian and Her Merry Men in the 1980s and 1990s. He wrote an episode of Maid Marian and Her Merry Men in 1994 and embarked on a career as a writer for children’s television.

In 1987, at the peak of the alternative comedy boom, he started performing stand-up, quickly finding himself on stage at The Comedy Store, where he appeared as both a stand-up and an MC until about a decade ago.

But Billingham’s love of crime

THE BILL2 TWO-COURSE LUNCH OFFER

(US$15)1 HALLOUMI

(US$8.20)1 CREAMY SPINACH

(US$6.90)1 COAL-FIRED CHILLIES

(US$4.90)

TOTAL: US$50


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writing never went away. During his time working in television and comedy, he started attending crime-writing festivals, reading and reviewing crime novels and interviewing crime writers including Michael Connelly and Ian Rankin (both now friends).

When he became disenchanted with writing for television (“writing by committee”), he wrote Sleepyhead, the first novel featuring London-based Detective Inspector Tom Thorne, and it was published in 2001. It became an instant bestseller in the UK; Billingham has now written 14 novels in the Tom Thorne series and several standalone novels.

Surprisingly, Billingham says he channelled a lot of what he had learned working as a stand-up into his crime novels. “You have to engage your audience very quickly, you have to keep them entertained – and jokes are structured in the same way as crime fiction is. It’s

all about timing, it’s all about the moment when you reveal the information. That’s what comics call it: the reveal. When you think a punchline is coming from one direction and it actually comes from a completely different direction. Crime fiction is full of those moments, they’re just very dark.”

Our mains arrive. Billingham’s chunks of lamb fillet and my skewer of spiced minced lamb are succulent and imbued with a smokiness found only in the best Anatolian restaurants.

Billingham has worn a lot of hats, but he’s no dilettante. There is something that links all the different pursuits – actor, stand-up, television writer, crime writer – and that is performance. His whole life has been devoted to satisfying his love of showing off. “I firmly believe that writing a novel is a performance,” he says. “I’m trying to give the best

“I’m one of those creatures that, when I open the fridge door and the light comes on, I’ll start to dance. I’m somewhat shameless”

performance I can to entertain the reader. Whether that is to scare them, or to keep them in suspense, or whatever it is. It’s a different kind of performance from being in a TV show or trotting out on stage at The Comedy Store, but it’s all essentially performing, it’s showing off. I’m one of those creatures that, when I open the fridge door and the light comes on, I’ll start to dance. I’m somewhat shameless.”

Before we bring our conversation to a close, there is one thing Billingham has been eager to tell me about since we sat down – his new band, the Fun Lovin’Crime Writers. Formed after an impromptu performance at theHouse of Blues in New Orleansduring Boucheron (Anthony Boucher Memorial World Mystery Convention) in 2016 was capturedon film, posted on YouTube andgarnered a lot of attention, theband is now a six-piece: Billingham (guitar and vocals), Val McDermid,(vocals), Chris Brookmyre (guestvocals), Stuart Neville (guitarand vocals), Luca Veste (bass)and Doug Johnstone (drums andvocals). Billingham and his fellow crime writers/rock stars will perform at crime writing festivalsacross the UK throughout 2018.

It turn out his Mum was right. What a show-off.

SEE MARK BILLINGHAM AT THE EMIRATES AIRLINE FESTIVAL OF LITERATURE | MARCH 1 TO 10 | EMIRATESLITFEST.COM


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COLUMN

When most people hop on a plane, especially if they live in colder climes such as Europe, they’re generally looking to

fi nd some sun. Not me, though. Recently I seem to have made a beeline for some of the coldest places on Earth. Not without reason, of course. I went deep into the Arctic Circle in Norway to marvel at the Northern Lights – wondering how people can livein a place with about an hour oflight per day. I also spent the nightin an ice hotel in frozen Quebecwhich, although an extraordinary experience, did leave me longingfor the less exotic charms of centralheating and brick walls.

However, as the temperatures dipped below zero, a revelation hit me – perhaps through some sort of higher consciousness as my body

approached shutdown. It came in the form of a rhetorical question: isn’t ice architecture impressive these days? No, really.

I was particularly struck by this on a recent trip to the city of Harbin in northeastern China. The temperature there was a balmy -30ºC, but this was no match forthe hardy Manchurian locals asthey headed for the Songhua River.While normally fl owing through the city, the river was currently frozen solid and had become a vasturban playground. As I steppedonto the metres-deep ice, it was

DOM JOLY IS FREEZINGBut he’s not going to let that put him off his adventure in China

glorious chaos. Locals drove cars in fast icy spinning circles, slaloming dangerously between fi shermen, kite fl iers and ice skaters, while a hypnotic humming sound fi lled the air – the result of hundreds of spinning tops that children whacked repeatedly with sticks to keep in perpetual motion.

However, this was just the frozen warm-up to the main event of the Harbin Ice Festival. Situated on a vast site about 10 minutes from the river, an entire city of ice had been built. Temples, pagodas, slides, domes and ice walls of China towered above me as I wandered around in awe, every building beautifully lit by coloured lights. The sheer scale was breathtaking.

You generally have to visit twice, as the coloured lights give the whole place a festive, party feeling in the evening while, in daylight, there are no lights save for the glint of sunlight that sparkles off sheer white walls, giving the city an ethereal monochrome beauty. It really is a work of art.

The moment the river freezes over in November, the builders get to work for the festival, which opens on Christmas Day. It normally lasts until March when the entire thing starts to melt back into the landscape and the architects prepare to do it all over again next winter.

It struck me that the sheer joy the residents of Harbin have, along with the innovative ways in which they utilise the harsh weather, is a lesson to us all. Life’s not just a beach… but do wrap up warm.

But he’s not going to let that put him off his adventure in China

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AN IMPRESSION OF THE FUTURE

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AN IMPRESSION OF THE FUTURE • THE WORD • THE MEXICAN (R)EVOLUTION

An immersive experience in Dubai is changing the way we view art.

VAN GOGH ALIVE

Turn over for more

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THE VAN GOGH ALIVE EXHIBITION IN DUBAI THIS MONTH IS SET TO ENTERTAIN AS WELL AS EDUCATE. BUT COULD IT ALSO REPRESENT THE FUTURE OF HOW WE ENJOY ART?WORDS: Ben East


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The lights dim, the audience settles in expectation. Suddenly, amidst a riot of colour and stirring music, a true, timeless icon looms large on huge screens, drawing everyone deeply into the vivid images. They are instantly

engrossed, captivated by the sights and sounds. But this isn’t the latest 3D movie at an IMAX theatre. Instead, somewhat incredibly, this is an exhibition devoted to Dutch painter Vincent Van Gogh – and it’s changing the way we think about and experience art.

Van Gogh Alive comes to Dubai in March after a six-week run earlier in the year in Abu Dhabi, and has been wowing audiences across the world since its 2011 debut. The premise is simple: to use huge, high-definition projections, light, sound and spectacle not just to immerse an audience into the groundbreaking work of the artist, but also to tell the story of his life. It’s about as far away from queuing in a gallery for a sight of a small still-life painting of some sunflowers as it’s possible to get.

“We wanted to create a new way to experience art and open it up to a wider audience, and that means people who might not traditionally visit art galleries,” says Rob

Kirk from Grande Exhibitions, the company behind Van Gogh Alive. “The idea is to engage, entertain and reflect the kind of thing people expect from a cultural experience in 2018. You have to do a lot more to capture people these days.”

Interestingly, Kirk says Grande Exhibitions consider themselves storytellers more than anything else, so when they were considering which artist might fit best for their first show, there were important decisions to be made, not only about who had the most worldwide appeal, but also how their “brand” of visually impressive art would work across 40 huge screens.

“Van Gogh is top of that list,” explains Kirk. “He’s one of the most famous artists in the world, and his work is tremendously vibrant and colourful. There’s a great story of a tortured soul who only painted for 10 years of his life, but who produced this huge body of spectacular work.

“So we wanted to take that work onto a large scale and immerse visitors in the paintings, combining them with a musical score – which is a very important component of the experience. The scale is so awe-inspiring, it’s almost like you’re part of the painting.”


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In fact, Kirk likens the process of putting Van Gogh Alive together to adapting a much-loved book for the big screen. More than 3,000 digital images are used in the show, including his famous Sunflowers, The Starry Night, Self-Portrait and Bedroom In Arles. Once permission has been gathered to use them, the really hard editorial and production work begins, with animations commissioned and even some set building taking place – you can step into Van Gogh’s famous bedroom painting and have your photograph taken.

Given that the originals are dispersed across the globe, it’s easy to see how a show such as Van Gogh Alive can offer not just a new way to experience the artist’s work, but perhaps the only way to visit it; unless you’re willing to travel thousands of miles to museums on different continents. The exhibition has now been to 36 cities around the world, and while you can’t get up close and personal with his original artworks, the show is meant to be complementary rather than a replacement for seeing the real thing.

“We don’t dictate what people should take from the experience,” Kirk explains. “Predominantly, it’s families, younger people and the digitally savvy visiting, and we hear most people say they want to learn more about art or Vincent Van Gogh having done so. But they want to be entertained as well as educated.”

The educational element, along with the immersive tech on display, was key to the decision by Dubai-based events and entertainment company 6IX to license Grande Exhibitions’ show for UAE audiences. There’s also patronage from the UAE Ministry of Culture and Knowledge Development, and support from Emirates.

“I spoke to a family in Abu Dhabi who told me it was the first gallery they’d been to where their children wanted to stay longer than they did,” laughs 6IX director Jessica Zuell. “So we do want this to be an engaging, entertaining and educational experience, which will make sense for people who might not usually go to an art gallery or know much about art. It’s about providing a gateway experience for everyone, and maybe they will find themselves wanting to know more about Van Gogh and art generally.”

Zuell says that although she’s now experienced Van Gogh Alive hundreds of times, she’s still struck by how the show continues to genuinely move her, thanks to the combination of movement, image and music.

“And that’s the feedback we’ve already got from visitors. It’s quite an emotional experience thanks to its unique concept,” says Zuell. “You see all of his paintings completely differently, and the way you can forget everything around you and be completely immersed in

LOCATION: DUBAI DESIGN DISTRICT D3VISIT: FROM MARCH 11

TIMES: 9AM TO 10PM (DAILY)VISIT: VANGOGHALIVEUAE.COM

THE DETAILS DUBAI

Loving Vincent, the first fully painted animated feature film, is in New Movies on ice. Plus, Lust for Life, the 1956 Van Gogh biopic starring Kirk Douglas and Anthony Quinn, is showing in Film Club.


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the painting is really quite beautiful.”In fact, Zuell argues that Van Gogh Alive has become

something of a phenomenon, given that more than two million people have experienced it since 2011. And with Grande Exhibitions now offering similar “blockbuster experiences” with Leonardo da Vinci and the French Impressionists – as well as other non-art shows – it certainly feels that their mix of technology andentertainment might be the future of how we experiencean exhibition.

“A lot of traditional galleries are are looking at introducing this technology into their own exhibitions, whether that’s because the originals are getting too fragile or because audience expectations are for an immersive, digital experience these days,” says Kirk.

So might we see a Virtual Reality Van Gogh Experience soon, where you strap on some goggles and are transported from where you stand into the painting? Perhaps surprisingly, Kirk isn’t so sure that this is the answer, despite the fantastic opportunities that technology now offers.

“One of the real benefits of Van Gogh Alive is that it’s a shared experience,” says Kirk. “You can see the amazed reactions of family and friends. We could do virtual reality quite easily, but it’s singular. You could sit and do that at home.

“For us, going to Van Gogh Alive is about being in a crowd and feeling a part of something that everyone around you is enjoying. It’s more like a rock concert in that sense.”

“Van Gogh typifies the tortured artist image. Can you believe he only sold one painting in his lifetime and died in poverty?”

“His most famous work is Sunflowers (1888), but this came from two series of paintings. There were 11 in total, if you include the Paris Sunflowers series.”

“Bedroom In Arles (1888) is one his favourite paintings. Don’t you love its classic simplicity? This was a deliberate attempt to ‘stop thinking and imagining’.”

“Starry Night (1889) was painted in Saint-Paul Asylum after he had sliced off part of his left ear. It’s currently housed in New York’s MoMA Gallery (the painting, not ear).”

“Although he lived in obscurity, Van Gogh’s Portrait of Dr. Gachet (1890) – the man who took care of him in the final months of his life – sold for US$82.5 million in 1990.”

ART TALKSound like an expert with these key phrases

SUCCESSMore than two million people have seen Van Gogh Alive since 2011


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T H EW O R Da p o e t r y m a g a z i n e

This monthEMIRATES AIRLINE FESTIVAL OF LITERATURE AND THE ART OF THE SLAM

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F e a t u r i n g …

Afra Atiq • Emi Mahmoud • Harry Baker • Zeina Hashem Beck • Hind Shoufani •Imtiaz Dharker


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THE WORD

“I cringe thinking about it,” says Afra Atiq of her fi rst ever performance. “There are actually

two times I consider to be my fi rst. One was back in school, I think around fi fth grade, and I had written a poem that I read dramatically to my classmates. I don’t remember being nervous. I just remember thinking this is a really good idea.

“Fast forward several years and I’m backstage waiting for my name to be called. I was nervous and afraid of judgement. I thought I would end up saying two words, then running off stage. I imagined a thousand different scenarios in which things would go horribly wrong. But the moment I stepped on stage and the second I started

to say the fi rst words of the poem I did fall I was head-over-heels in love with the experience, and if I knew that all the fear I felt backstage would bring me as much joy as performing poetry has brought me, then I would do it 1,000 times over.”

Atiq is one of the stars of this year’s Emirates Airline Festival of Literature, and in many ways embodies the resurgence in the popularity of poetry. Young, confi dent, powerful, she embraces spoken word and all that it encapsulates: poetry, performance, theatre, music (sometimes) and the participation of a crowd.

“Performing poetry, to me, is like baring your soul in front of the audience,” she says. “It is about leaving a part of you on stage to tell the story. In a sense that is also my greatest joy – the fact that I am blessed to be able to share my tale and so many others, no matter how difficult it is to do so, with the audience in front of me.”

Atiq has followed in the footsteps of Hind Shoufani and Zeina Hashem Beck, two

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As this month’s Emirates Airline Festival of Literature prepares to celebrate poetry, we examine how the art form is evolving in our digital age

WORDS: Iain Akerman

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“YOU CAN BREAK EVERY LAW IN EVERY GRAMMAR BOOK IN EVERY LANGUAGE. IN ARABIC WE EVEN HAVE A SAYING: ‘A POET HAS RIGHTS THAT NO OTHER PEOPLE HAVE’”

THE WORD


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pioneers of the UAE’s poetry scene. The former is the founder of Poeticians, the latter of Punch. Both unite every year at the literature festival to bring together some of Dubai’s fi nest talent. This year is no different.

“Poetry is music for those who cannot sing or play an instrument,” says Shoufani, whose fi rst performance in Beirut at the age of 18 was a near disaster. “It’s personal and political. It comes out like a waterfall, source unknown, and flows to the world unimpeded by editors, PR people, censors, recordists, producers, or digital media. Purely immediate connections can be made with poetry.

“You can break every law in every grammar book in every language. In Arabic we even have a saying: ‘A poet has rights that no other people have.’ It is associated with lunacy, with love, with philosophy, with history, with collective memory, with sensations, music, voice and family, tears and yearning, and solidarity and resistance. A poem in the right moment, sung by a powerful poet, can remain in history as a turning point of an entire revolution. Or maybe I believe that because I am Palestinian.”

Perhaps it is for these reasons that poetry is enjoying a noticeable surge in appreciation. In the UK alone more than a million poetry books were sold in 2016, the highest number ever recorded. Much of this is down to social media stars such as Rupi Kaur and other spoken-word poets, amongst them Hollie McNish, Kate Tempest and Emi Mahmoud, all of whom embrace performance, honesty and accessibility. Their emergence has caused something of a stir.

“The old gatekeepers have been banished,” says the poet Imtiaz Dharker. “Many kinds of poetry have been let loose, all valid, all with a life of their own. There are different accents and voices, people who might not have been heard 50 years ago. Some of this is caused by adventurous publishers like Bloodaxe Books, that went out on a limb and challenged accepted ideas of poetry and who could be a poet, seeking out new poets from all over the world; or new platforms like slam; or new media like Instagram. Poetry is bursting out of traditional straitjackets.

“All of this – the range of poetry available, the excitement of it – has created audiences who might never have come to poetry before. Now they have begun to feel that poetry belongs to them again. Especially now, in a world that is moving too fast and is too full of pointless chatter, poetry feels like a still centre, and more and more people are turning to it.”

Much of this poetry is deeply personal, almost autobiographical, and is fi red by a variety of motivators: catharsis, disillusionment, anger, and disenfranchisement. It is also hugely popular, with Kaur followed by 2.3 million people on Instagram.

“I started writing when I was a teenager and it helped me develop as a human being as much as anything else,” admits Harry Baker, a world poetry slam champion turned full-time poet. “Some of those poems never saw the light of day but it was enough for them to help me process what was going on in my head at the time. I’ve had people message me similar things after reading or seeing

“I STARTED WRITING WHEN I WAS A TEENAGER, AND IT HELPED ME DEVELOP AS A HUMAN BEING AS MUCH AS ANYTHING ELSE”

LOCAL SCENEZeina Hashem Beck is a pioneer of the UAE poetry scene

THE WORD

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THE WORD

“ALL OF THIS – THE RANGE OF POETRY AVAILABLE, THE EXCITEMENT OF IT – HAS CREATED AUDIENCES WHO MIGHT NEVER HAVE COME TO POETRY BEFORE”

RAISING AWARENESSEmi Mahmoud writes on international issues

my poems, so I think whether it is articulating something that’s going on within you or seeing somebody articulate something similar, poetry can be a fantastic way of taking a step back and fi guring out what’s happening in the world, internally or otherwise.”

At its core poetry helps people process their thoughts. It also helps bring change, something that Baker and others believe is possible through verse.

“I don’t think I would do what I do if I didn’t believe that it was possible,” admits Baker. “On a personal level I’ve changed a lot through both reading and writing verse, but I’ve also been lucky enough to see those around me change as well. Whether it’s on a tiny

1

NUYORICAN POETS CAFÉ, NEW YORK CITYA world-famous cafe that has served as home for groundbreaking works of poetry, music, theatre and visual arts in New York for the past 40 years.

2

PUNCH, DUBAIA monthly poetry and open-mic night in Dubai for established and emerging writers. Founded by the award-winning Lebanese poet Zeina Hashem Beck.

3

CHILL PILL, LONDONChill Pill roams across three venues in the city, offering a laidback club night with an emphasis on the spoken word.

SLAM TIMEThe best global slam poetry nights

scale of slightly brightening someone’s day or something bigger like reminding someone there is hope out there, sometimes it’s hard to measure, but there’s defi nitely a possible change.”

Atiq agrees. “I always say that artists have a unique responsibility towards their communities,” she says. “It is our job to tell our stories, to inspire others to tell theirs and create their own art. To help them to believe

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Go boxing or running through the forest followed by massage therapy sessions to recover

that they can achieve, and if I have managed to inspire even one person, I am blessed beyond all measure.”

However, there has been a backlash against the popularism epitomised by spoken word and slam. Writing in the poetry journal PN Review earlier this year, poet Rebecca Watts criticised “a cohort of young female poets who are currently being lauded by the

poetic establishment for their ‘honesty’ and ‘accessibility’ – buzzwords for the open denigration of intellectual engagement and rejection of craft that characterises their work”.

In the article, Watts asked why the poetry world was pretending poetry is not an art form. Her answer? That “artless poetry sells”. This despite both McNish and Tempest winning the Ted Hughes prize for new work in poetry.

“I tend to avoid the ‘page poetry’ versus ‘spoken word’ dichotomy,” says Hashem Beck. “I don’t like some possible underlying assumptions in some of these conversations: that page poetry is more boring, or that stage poetry is less well crafted. Sure, some poets are more performance oriented than others, but a good poem should be able to exist well in a book and on a stage.”

“Everything we do is based on what has gone before,” adds Baker. “Slam poetry wouldn’t exist if it wasn’t inspired in some way by trying to do something different to traditional verse. I think the two can exist side-by-side and problems only arise when one tries to defi ne itself by shutting down the other.”

Snobbery and elitism have always been two of poetry’s greatest flaws. Yet it champions words, which is why the American poet Richard Blanco has spoken of poetry’s reclamation of language in the social media age. “A poem takes back language, re-energises it, reinvigorates it in a way that a post doesn’t,” he told Wired.

As with previous years, the Emirates Airline Festival of Literature is celebrating poetry

OPEN MICFor those looking to try it, here are the basics of a poetry slam

1. Similar to freestyle rap battles in that they are highly competitive, poetry slams pit poet against poet.

2. Originating in Chicago in 1984, slam poetry sees poets perform original work alone or in teams before an audience.

5. A poetry slam is all about the spoken word. Props, costumes, gimmicks and music are always forbidden.

3. With three minutes to perform, the work is judged by a panel that’s often selected direct from the audience.

4. Scored out of 10, results are based on content, flow, rhythm and the enthusiasm and personality of the performer on stage.

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“SLAM POETRY WOULDN’T EXIST IF IT WASN’T TRYING TO DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT WITH CLASSIC VERSE”

GRAND SLAMHarry Baker thinks slam poetry fits with traditional verse

6. The slam should be fun, with losses taken in good faith. There will be minimum ‘beef’ in the car park outside.


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THE WORD

“PERFORMING POETRY IS LIKE BARING YOUR SOUL TO THE AUDIENCE. IT IS LEAVING PART OF YOU OUT THERE ON STAGE TO TELL THE STORY”

NEW GROUNDAfra Atiq is the first female Emirati slam poet

in all its forms, despite recent friction within the global poetry community. Atiq, Shoufani, Beck, Baker and Dharker will all be performing at the festival.

“Poetry in its simplest everyday form, in spoken word, on stage, has the power to break down elitist barriers and make us hear each other,” says Shoufani. “And when a poet is on stage, we don’t scroll away, we don’t talk, we don’t play music, we don’t swipe anything. We listen. Something powerful to do in this day of overwhelming noise.

“Poetry has survived thousands of years of human development, it’s not going anywhere. It morphs and shifts and changes its skin, like a reptilian pre-historic creature wandering the earth, and it may change colours with seasons, and camouflage itself in other forms, but it is going nowhere. Humans love to speak to one another, no matter how obsessed we get with our little screens and solitude. We still love the sound of someone’s spirit spilling into our hands in the form of a few lines of verse.”

ALL POETS FEATURED WILL BE AT THE EMIRATES AIRLINE FESTIVAL OF LITERATURE, DUBAI, MARCH 1 TO 10 | EMIRATESLITFEST.COM

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THE WORD

For more about this exciting

festival, check out the Emirates Airline Festival of Literature podcast on channel 1504 on ice Digital Widescreen.


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Supermarket fajitas, Michelin stars and cultural appropriation: we follow the food chain to discover how Mexican cuisine became the hottest thing in fine dining

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GAME CHANGERMartha Ortiz has helped change the public perception of Mexican food

WHEN ORTIZ IS IN TOWN, SHE GIVES HIM A LIST OF BOOKS TO READ AND MUSEUMS TO VISIT – IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT COOKING

and wanted to bring her favourite Mexican food home with her. The chain now has 25 branches in the UK. In that time, the burrito bar replaced Tex-Mex, nachos and fajitas as the UK’s idea of Mexican. In 2015 alone, the number of new Mexican restaurants went up 71 per cent. Then the taqueria took over. In London, you have to queue to get in Breddos Tacos in

I’m on the phone to Martha Ortiz. The charismatic Mexican chef is halfway through a story about flying

over to London. The pilot speaks to passengers over the PA. The man sitting next to Ortiz seems surprised that this pilot is a woman. Maybe he misheard. Perhaps this woman is the co-pilot?

Ortiz puts him firmly in his place: “No! She is not the co-pilot. She is the pilot. And she has the power of your life in her hands.” Ortiz laughs, thoroughly, and it’s about now I completely abandon my list of questions. “She is a woman,” Ortiz tells the man, “and she will do just fine.”

Her stories, her sermons, take in subjects including but not limited to: feminism, shamans, politics and political science, therapists, the Oscars, her mother (an artist), her father (a doctor), Frida Kahlo and Donald Trump. She tells me why she opened her new restaurant, Ella Canta, in London (“something kind of magical”), why she loves black mole (“tastes like the fire when the fire happens, the memory of the fire”), and why Mexican food is matriarchal.

Mexican food is going through changes. Or, as Ortiz points out, what’s really changing is the way the rest of the world sees Mexican food. The most exciting restaurants in London are Mexican. Some of the best chefs in the world are Mexican. For the first time, Mexican cooking competes on the global stage with fine-dining’s most established cuisines.

“It’s more than competing,” Ortiz says. “It has the same complexity. The same beauty. It’s a world-class food and a world-class culture. Because Mexican food is part of our culture, part of our history. We

have an emotional attachment to food. And, something very important, it’s part of our identity. Mexican food is the new and the old world together. Even on the Day of the Dead, we celebrate with food. The mole, the tortilla. Food is what makes Mexicans Mexican.”

Growing up, Mexican food was nachos. It was a fajita kit you bought in a box from the supermarket. A bit later, I developed a pretty serious burrito habit. Then I spent a couple of months travelling in Mexico and ate none of those things. I’m that clichéd traveller who comes home banging on about the “real food” – corn tortillas made fresh that morning and meat roasted in a pit in the ground and a mysterious sauce called mole. But I’m in good company.

Ten years ago, Thomasina Miers opened Wahaca. The British MasterChef winner lived in Mexico

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THE MEXICAN (R)EVOLUTION

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Are you a foodie? Check

out Lifestyle TV on ice for shows like Eating Out In Dubai, Nadiya’s British Food Adventures and hit shows from Food Network.

Museum, and Pink Floyd. With Ortiz, you’re getting regional Mexican food, refined, recreated, reimagined by a chef who once compared a chili pepper to a former partner on Mexican television.

“I love to make stories,” she says. “I’m not just in my kitchen saying, ‘here are my dishes.’ I’m making the lyrical part. It has a lyrical part that is part of being a woman, part of being Mexican. It’s not just work: it’s a statement.”

Carlos Gaytan just got a bad review from a customer and he isn’t happy. The man wanted a whisky with his food. Gaytan’s restaurant in Chicago, Mexique, doesn’t serve whisky. The Mexican chef normally likes to call up people who leave bad reviews, but this guy didn’t leave a number. Gaytan’s used to it by now. When he opened in 2008, he wanted to show a different side to Mexican food, which meant he was often defined by what wasn’t on his menu.

“It was a big challenge for us,” Gaytan says, “especially for me that was the pioneer, to do something like that, and eliminate the most popular things on the menu – like guacamole, enchiladas, margaritas, beans, rice – all these are eliminated from my menu.

“Instead of people coming to my restaurant and telling me what they want to eat, I was telling them what they’re going to eat.”

Clerkenwell, El Pastor in Borough, Corazon in Soho.

Ortiz, a celebrity chef in Mexico, owns Dulce Patria in Mexico City, considered one of the best restaurants in the world. She says there’s much more to Mexican food than tacos. Before becoming a chef, she studied political science. Then she took a trip around Mexico because she wanted to learn about

traditional Mexican cooking from the people who understand it best: women. “For me, they are like magicians,” she says. “They are very poor. But with four ingredients they can do so much. They are like shamans. They are my heroes.”

Her dishes reference not just traditional Mexican cooking, but the magical-realist film Like Water for Chocolate, art exhibits at the V&A


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Gaytan calls his cooking “modern Mexican cuisine with a French influence”. His version of chile relleno, a stuffed chili, is a roasted poblano pepper fi lled with ratatouille, brie and mustard fondue. It’s the kind of thing that made him the fi rst Mexican chef to earn a Michelin star.

Gaytan comes from a “really poor family”. He moved to America and worked his way up. He couldn’t read English in the early days, but he used to look at the pictures in cookbooks and recreate what he saw.

Mexican workers like Gaytan have propped up the food industry in America for decades now. But compared to, say, Italian or Chinese, why has it taken so long for Mexican food to make the move into fi ne dining?

A recent article in The Atlantic believes it’s down to US immigration patterns. Italian immigration peaked in the early 1900s. Plus, Italian food was closer to other European cuisines, more accessible to non-Italians. Chinese immigrants typically earned more money than Mexican immigrants so had more opportunities to fund their own restaurants. If a Mexican did start a restaurant, it usually served other working-class Mexicans. Food had to be reasonably priced and substantial. So, the number of high-end restaurants owned by Mexicans was and still is signifi cantly smaller than those owned by immigrants from other countries.

I’M EATING BUGS FOR BREAKFAST, BUT I’M ALSO THINKING ABOUT HISTORY, POLITICS AND ART… IN THIS KITCHEN, EVERYTHING MEANS SOMETHING

OCTOPUS, SMOKED CHILE SAUCE, BURNT ONION

OCTOPUS, SMOKED CHILE CORN AND HUITLACOCHE CAKE

FIREDANCED SEABASS

HUITLACOCHE CAKE

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BEEF FILLET, BLACK CHICHILO

BEEF FILLET,

TAMAL MEXICANO

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For a while, if you wanted fancy Mexican food, you went to a non-Mexican restaurant. Rick Bayless cooked at the White House for the Mexican president. The Spaniard José Andrés also did well out of fi ne dining Mexican food. Recently, Noma’s Rene Redzepi opened a pop-up Mexican restaurant, in Mexico, and charged US$600 a plate. A burrito cart in Portland closed last year after being publicly shamed over comments, made by the white owners, that they “picked the brains of every tortilla lady” in Puerto Nuevo. It’s cultural appropriation or worse, critics said. The New York Times restaurant critic, Pete Wells, wrote scathingly about certain non-Mexicans who open Mexican restaurants: ‘a week’s vacation has become a research trip, and a snack bought with pocket change has

become a US$13 appetizer.’ Cantina Laredo opened in London

in 2010. There are Cantina Laredos all over America. The Ginsberg family owns this particular franchise. They’re originally from South Africa. Tarryn Ginsberg tells me they “spotted a gap in the market”.

ELIAS SILVA RESINASElla Canta’s head chef is part of the new wave of young Mexican chefs

Elias, You put bugs in guacamole?In Mexico we have the smallest one. They sell them on the streets. Kind of like a snack. People will buy a bag and walk around. If you go to small towns in Mexico you see things and think, ‘Whoa, why are they eating this?’ But it’s actually really healthy.

What’s the hardest part about bringing Mexican food to the UK?Trying to teach people what Mexican food actually is has been the hardest part. They don’t have respect, because no one has given respect to Mexican food in the past. They think it’s ‘quick food’. But people are realising that Mexican food is more than just tacos.

Why is mole so important to Mexicans?To make a mole it takes all day long, 16 hours. It’s an all-day process cleaning the chilies, roasting the tomatoes, roasting the garlic, onions. When you make a black mole, you burn the chilies. If you compare it to other cuisines, if you burn something, you’re fi red.

What do people think of your food back home?I’m curious about what my mom would think. She wouldn’t care [about adapting traditional dishes], but she would criticise a lot. She’d be like, ‘This is not right, change it.’ When I’m at home and she’s cooking, I’m not allowed in the kitchen. I would be more nervous to give food to her than to a food critic.

Which Mexican restaurants do you like in London?I went to El Pastor. I’ve been to Breddos Tacos. I like them, they’re really good.

Tarryn and brother Dean give me a tour. Tarryn talks about visiting the farmers who grow the agave used to make the mezcal and tequila stocked behind the bar. Up on the wall hangs a coa, one of their harvesting tools, like a long spade-machete. In the kitchen, she gives me lessons on Abuelita (a weird, powdery Mexican chocolate), jicama (known as Mexican turnip), chapulines (toasted grasshoppers), and other stuff, much of it imported from Mexico.

Tarryn worked on the restaurant’s new menu with Mexico City chef Roberto De la Parra, but she points out that they’re putting their own spin on Mexican food. You’ve got tacos, tortas and quesadillas, but one of the guacamoles includes blue cheese. They do a cheesecake, but with Mexican ingredients, hibiscus and a guava sorbet. Catina Laredo clearly cares about Mexico and Mexican food, but isn’t this the kind of cultural appropriation we should be wary of?

Gustavo Arellano is the author of Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America. He wrote that without 125 years of food trends in America from and inspired by Mexico, ‘Mexican food in this country would be as remarkable as sauerkraut.’ As Arellano sees it, restaurants such as Catina Laredo are more like ambassadors than appropriators. Equality for immigrants is a problem. But sticking exclusively to stuff that comes from your own culture would surely make that problem worse.

When Gabriela Cámara started seafood restaurant Contramar in 1998, fi ne dining in Mexico City meant a restaurant cooking French or Italian food. Restaurants would use frozen fi sh shipped in from the Mediterranean. She brought in fresh Mexican seafood from the coast. Since then, Mexico City’s food scene has developed an identity of


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its own and has become one of the world’s best towns for foodies.

Cámara now runs Cala in San Francisco. Seafood is still her specialty, which, she says, “doesn’t imply so much cooking but more ‘putting together’ ingredients, marinating and so forth”. She reckons people are more willing to pay for this method thanks largely to the popularity of sushi restaurants. You can see the mix of influences in her kampachi ceviche, with fennel and oro blanco grapefruit, something you wouldn’t immediately recognise as Mexican food.

“The British and American view of Mexican food is oversimplified,” Cámara says, “but it has definitely changed over the past decades. When people are introduced to how vast and incredible Mexican food can be, there is no going back to only guacamole and chips.”

I’m eating bugs for breakfast but I’m also thinking about history and politics and art. These grasshoppers usually go with queso fresco and pomegranate seeds on top of a guacamole called Guacamole Nacionalista. Green avocado, red pomegranate seeds, white cheese: all the colours of the Mexican flag. The grasshoppers, coloured gold, represent the children of Mexico. See, in this kitchen, everything means something. It’s all story, all statement. Ortiz is the pilot of this particular plane.

“When I started working for Martha, it was kind of interesting, that part,” says Elias Silva Resinas,

head chef at Ella Canta, as he preps for lunch. Ortiz splits her time between Mexico City and London. When she is in town, she gives Resinas a list of books to read, museums to visit. “It’s not just about cooking,” Resinas says. “It’s about all the knowledge that goes into that dish.” We talk and we eat: the Guacamole Nacionalista is easily the best guacamole I’ve ever had, but the octopus, marinated in pasilla chili and served with avocado salad – this is one of the best plates of food I’ve ever tasted. We move on to tacos, which brings me full circle.

Resinas says the taco, currently the UK’s trendiest Mexican food, is a good example of how the cuisine is often misunderstood. Making the corn tortillas used for tacos is laborious. The corn soaks in limestone solution that takes off the skin. It needs to rest for at least 12 hours before being washed and

ground in a huge grinder made from two volcanic rocks. They make the dough, press it into shape, and cook it. The whole process takes 20 hours. It takes me 20 seconds to eat one.

Unesco recently added Mexican food to its list of “intangible cultural heritage”. That means it’s unique, should be celebrated, and protected. The current revolution in Mexican fine dining isn’t about denigrating tacos, burritos, or even fajitas. It’s about showing a different side to a cuisine that is 10,000 years old. But don’t take my word for it.

“You think these dishes come from my imagination?” says Ortiz. “No, this comes from history.” She laughs, thoroughly, and it’s about now that I realise this particular conversation is over.

FINE DININGCarlos Gaytan is the first Mexican chef to earn a Michelin star

THE MOST EXCITING RESTAURANTS ARE MEXICAN. SOME OF THE BEST CHEFS IN THE WORLD ARE MEXICAN. FOR THE FIRST TIME, MEXICAN COOKING IS COMPETING ON THE GLOBAL STAGE


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NEWS • INSIDE EMIRATES • DESTINATION • UAE SMART GATE • VISA • ROUTE MAP • FLEET

NEW ROUTE TO SOUTH AMERICAA new five-times-weekly service from Dubai to Santiago de Chile via São Paulo starts July 5.

Turn over for more news from Emirates

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NEWS

EMIRATES HAS SIGNED a contract for 20 additional Airbus A380 aircraft and 16 options, firming up the Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) announced in January. The full 36 aircraft agreement is valued at US$16 billion, with deliveries expected as early as 2020.

Along with the airline’s 101-strong A380 fleet and its current order backlog for 41 aircraft, Emirates’ commitment to the A380 programme stands at 178 aircraft, worth more than US$60 billion.

His Highness Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline and Group,

signed the agreement with Mikail Houari, President Airbus Africa Middle East on the sidelines of the World Government Summit in February.

Sheikh Ahmed said, “This agreement underscores our commitment to the A380 programme, providing stability to the A380 production line and supporting tens of thousands of high-value jobs across the aviation supply chain. For Emirates, the A380 has been a successful aircraft for our customers, our operations, and our brand. We look forward to continue working with Airbus to further enhance the aircraft and onboard product.”

EMIRATES WILL INTRODUCE a new non-stop service between Newark Liberty International Airport and Dubai from June 1, adding to its existing daily flight, which operates with a stop in Athens, Greece.

Emirates’ non-stop service to Newark will offer travellers in northern New Jersey enhanced global connectivity, particularly those heading to Africa, the Far East, and the Indian subcontinent.

In line with commercial demand, the airline has also made further adjustments to its services to JFK. From March 25, Emirates will stop operating flight EK207/208, thereby reducing its services between Dubai and New York JFK to three daily flights. From JFK, Emirates will retain two non-stop flights a day to Dubai, and one daily flight via Milan, Italy.

With these operating updates at Newark and JFK, the total number of Emirates flights serving the New York metropolitan area will remain unchanged at five daily services from June 1.

EMIRATES IS TO LAUNCH a new five-times-a-week service from Dubai to Santiago de Chile via the Brazilian city of São Paulo.

Beginning on July 5, the new service will see the airline fly an additional five times a week to São Paulo, complementing the airline’s existing daily A380 flight between Dubai and the Brazilian city. In total, Emirates will now fly 12 times a week to São Paulo.

Emirates’ Santiago flight will be a linked service with São Paulo, meaning that customers in South America can

Multibillion-dollar Airbus A380 deal for Emirates

New Emirates service to Chile

Enhanced connectivity to the USA

now travel between the two cities in unprecedented style and comfort. Citizens from both Brazil and Chile only need ID cards to travel to either country.

The new route will be operated with a two-class configured Boeing 777-200LR, which offers 38 Business Class seats and 264 seats in Economy Class.

Sir Tim Clark, President of Emirates Airline, said, “The start of our operations to Chile underlines our commitment to South America with our fourth destination on the continent and another five flights to São Paulo.”

In addition, from March 25, Emirates will add twoflights a week each to Fort Lauderdale and Orlando,


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NEWS

EMIRATES’ THIRD DAILY service to Melbourne is to be upgraded to an A380 operation from March 25.

The move will add 945 seats per week to the Australian city, representing a 10 per cent increase in capacity.

The additional weekly seats on the route will support more business and leisure travel between Dubai and Melbourne and, together with Qantas’ new Melbourne, via Perth, London B789 Dreamliner service beginning on March 24, offers customers more options to London and Europe under the joint partnership.

The popular Emirates A380 offers 489 seats in a three-class cabin configuration with 14 private suites in First Class, 76 flatbed seats in Business Class and 399 spacious seats in Economy.

Melbourne was Emirates’ first Australian destination, when the airline started flights with a three-times-weekly service in 1996. Since then, Melbourne has remained an important and popular destination on the airline’s global network and over the past 20 years, Emirates has gradually added flights and upgraded capacity on the route to meet consumer demand.

Aside from Melbourne, Emirates also operates flights to Sydney, Brisbane, Perth and Adelaide.

A380 upgrade for Melbourne

EMIRATES IS TO RESUME flights between Dubai and Istanbul’s Sabiha Gökçen Airport from June 8.

The resumption of services will allow customers two destination options when travelling to Istanbul. Together with Emirates’ other service to the city, the airline will offer 16 flights and over 6,500 seats per week, catering to both tourism and business traffic.

The flight will be operated five times a week by an Emirates Boeing 777-300ER in a three-class cabinconfiguration. The aircraft allowsfor an increase in cargo capacity toIstanbul, with a weekly total of 100tonnes, and makes Emirates the

only airline operating a scheduled service with a wide-body aircraft at Sabiha Gökçen Airport.

“We’ve seen continued growth in travel demand to and from Istanbul over the past year and are therefore pleased to be able to offer passengers travelling with Emirates the choice of two destinations in the city,” said Hubert Frach, Emirates Divisional Senior Vice President, Commercial Operations, West. “With flights to these two points in Istanbul, along with our extended partnership with flydubai, we’re able to offer customers more scheduled flight options and greater connectivity to Dubai and beyond.”

Two options to Istanbul

In addition, from March 25, Emirates will add twoflights a week each to Fort Lauderdale and Orlando,effectively returning to daily services at bothand reflecting the steady rebound in customerdemand.


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WE MOVE THINGS THAT ARE OUT OF THIS WORLD

Space programmeHow Emirates SkyCargo transported KhalifaSat, the first space satellite built and developed in the UAE by Emirati engineers

The numbers behind the special charters of Emirates’ freighter fleet

Teams from Emirates SkyCargo and MBRSC worked together from

November 2017 to prepare and plan every

step in the movement of the satellite from Dubai to Incheon International Airport in South Korea.

The KhalifaSat project was launched in 2013

by His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid

Al Maktoum, Vice President and Prime

Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai.

Emirates SkyCargo

370Ad hoc charters operated by Emirates SkyCargo between January and December 2017.

140Global destinations flown to by Emirates’ freighter aircraft in the past 12 months.

24The hours it can take, in some cases, from receiving a customer request at Emirates SkyCargo to the charter taking off.

14The number of freighters in Emirates SkyCargo’s modern fleet.

Mohammed Bin Rashid Space Centre

(MBRSC) manufactured KhalifaSat – the first

space satellite built by Emirati engineers and

on UAE soil.

WE MOVE THINGS THAT ARE OUT OF THIS WORLD


OPEN SKIES / 75

INSIDE EMIRATES

Once loaded, KhalifaSat travelled from Dubai to Incheon International

Airport on an Emirates SkyCargo Boeing 777

freighter aircraft that was specially chartered for the

occasion.

Following KhalifaSat’s launch in 2018, the

remote sensing satellite will provide images

of Earth for practical application in a variety

of industries.

In addition to loading and transportation, dedicated

planning was involved from Emirates SkyCargo

to ensure aircraft and crew availability, as well as obtaining all

relevant permissions for operating a chartered

freighter flight to Incheon International.

50Loadmasters and cross-functional specialists in the Emirates SkyCargo team, working with customers on their specific chartered flight.

44The weight in tonnes of Emirates Team New Zealand’s race boat and equipment on their charter from Auckland to Bermuda.

100+Show jumping horses transported by Emirates SkyCargo across three continents in April and May 2017 as part of the Longines Global Champions tour.

The satellite was then moved from MBRSC’s manufacturing facility

in Dubai to the Emirates SkyCentral DWC freighter cargo terminal. This was on a dedicated, remotely

monitored Emirates SkyCargo truck travelling

on a geo-fenced route with a police escort for

maximum security.

150The number of vehicles transported by Emirates Wheels each month.


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THE SECOND LARGEST city in Australia and the capital of Victoria, Melbourne is the country’s undisputed cool kid. Fashion capital, hipster paradise, cultural magnet, design hotspot – Melbourne knows how to live.

Frequently described as the southern hemisphere’s pre-eminent creative city and consistently rated among the world’s most liveable urban areas, Melbourne is a funky metropolis filled with Victorian brick and steel. At its centre is a labyrinth of laneways, which run like capillaries from the main arteries of Melbourne’s compact inner-city grid system, offering a wealth of delights for the exploratory visitor.

It’s hard to know where to begin. There’s Fitzroy, considered one of the world’s most hipster neighbourhoods, the Esplanade in St Kilda, or Flinders Lane, home to some of the best shopping and food in Australia. This, after all, is a city awash with boutiques, independent cafés, rooftop bars, restaurants, galleries and bookshops.

And yet Melbourne, built on a coastal plain at the top of Port Phillip Bay, is far more than just a hipster hangout. It hosts a programme of world-class festivals, art exhibitions and sporting crowd-pleasers throughout the entirety of the year, including the Australian Grand Prix and the Australian Open. For a sports-mad city of 3.5 million, what more could you ask for?

Outside of the city’s boundaries, the geographic diversity of Victoria awaits the longer-stay traveller. There’s the Great Otway National Park, with its 57-mile hiking trail, forest, waterfalls and Aboriginal history, the Grampians National Park, with its aboriginal rock art, and the stunning MacKenzie Falls.

Emirates’ services to Melbourne will be all-A380 from March 25, so enjoy our guide to Australia’s coolest city

MELBOURNE

This month Emirates will provide an all-A380 service from Melbourne when it upgrades its third daily flight from the

Australian city, EK408 and EK409, from a Boeing 777-300ER to an A380 operation.


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ATTICAYou’ll have to be well organised to enjoy a meal at Attica. The only Australian restaurant on the San Pellegrino World’s Top 50 Restaurants list, it is understandably in high demand. Bookings are taken up to three months in advance. Expect extraordinary culinary creations made from the finest native ingredients. attica.com.au

TIPO 00 Situated in Little Bourke Street is this Italian masterpiece. With a name that references the flour used to make pasta, its open kitchen produces treats such as braised duck with porcini mushroom and pecorino pepata, chargrilled octopus, with witlof and orange, and gippsland rabbit with olives and oregano.tipo00.com.au

TOKYO TINA A Japanese-Vietnamese eatery located in Chapel Street, Tokyo Tina offers a delightful twist on Japanese street food. From the team behind Melbourne’s Hanoi Hannah and Saigon Sally, this is fusion dining with hip décor and messy fingers. Enjoy the kingfish sashimi cones and miso ramen.tokyotina.com.au

HOTEL LINDRUMOnce a billiard hall, this 59-room boutique hotel is all polished wood and sleek lines. Located in Melbourne’s Central Business District and within easy walking distance of the city’s nightlife, it was originally opened in 1999 and emits an air of understated elegance thanks to the building’s Romanesque revival style. hotellindrum.com.au

THE LANGHAMWith 388 rooms, each featuring stunning views of the Yarra River or the city’s skyline, this hotel is a classic. In fact, you’ll be hard pressed to find better views of Melbourne than with this sister to London’s Langham situated on the city’s Southbank Promenade. Expect traditionally furnished rooms and a splash of style. langhamhotels.com

PARK HYATT MELBOURNE Standing gracefully next to Fitzroy Gardens opposite St Patrick’s Cathedral, the Park Hyatt prides itself on attention to detail and superior personalised service. Offering a mix of Victorian and modern architecture, it’s based in the city’s Central Business District and offers 240 guest rooms and suites. melbourne.park.hyatt.com

DESTINATION

NATIONAL GALLERY OF VICTORIALocated in the city’s Southbank, the National Gallery of Victoria’s collection contains approximately 70,000 works of European, Asian, Oceanic and American art. Originally founded in 1861, it is the country’s oldest and most visited art museum. ngv.vic.gov.au

SHRINE OF REMEMBRANCE Built in an epic style inspired by the Parthenon and the Acropolis in Greece, Melbourne’s Shrine of Remembrance commemorates the 19,000 Victorians killed during the First World War. It includes the bronze Gallipoli Memorial, The Forecourt and the Remembrance Garden.shrine.org.au

ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS VICTORIAOne of the best places to relax in the city, the gardens attract more than 1.8 million visitors a year and it’s easy to see why. Stunning vistas, tranquil lakes and diverse plant collections make the Royal Botanic Gardens Victoria a natural sanctuary for native wildlife.rbg.vic.gov.au


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UAE SMART GUIDE

Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

Be Smart! Use UAE Smart Gate at Dubai International Airport

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASYTo register for Smart Gate access, just spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer and that’s it. Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you have landed.

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENTRemember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures, across all three terminals at DXB.

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• Machine-readable passports from the above countries

• E-Gate cards

• Emirates ID cards

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

Go through the open gate, stand on the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim.

3OK!

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the card slot. 2

Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready tobe scanned.1

Using UAE Smart Gate is easy

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VISA GUIDE

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA)If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESTA FACTS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether

your application has been authorised, denied or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

APPLY ONLINE AT WWW.CBP.GOV/ESTA

NATIONALITIES ELIGIBLE FOR THE VISA WAIVER*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* Subject to change** Only British Citizens

qualify under the Visa Waiver Program.

Guide to US customs & immigrationWhether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle-free as possible.

Customs Declaration Form


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UAE SMART GUIDE

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require

Comfort in the airTo help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

JAPANJapan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.

You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if you have recently been to a livestock farm; are bringing livestock products into Japan; or if your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, head to the counter in baggage claim to speak with the animal quarantine officer.

Quarantine

AUSTRALIAAustralia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take care when completing your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

Smart TravellerDRINK PLENTY OF WATERRehydrate with water or juices. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLYCarry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

WEAR GLASSESCabin air is drier than normal, so swap contact lenses for glasses.

USE SKIN MOISTURISERApply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

KEEP MOVINGExercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood flow.

MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLELoosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

SHARPS BOXESSharps boxes are available on board all Emirates flights for safe disposal of medical equipment. Ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling

if you have any medical concerns about travelling, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition.

Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications?

Get a good night’s rest before the flight. Eat lightly and sensibly.

AT THE AIRPORT Allow yourself plenty of time for

comfortable check-in. Avoid carrying heavy bags through the

airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under stress.

Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

DURING THE FLIGHT Chewing and swallowing will help

equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent.

Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.

Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently.

Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise, or read if you

can’t sleep after arrival.

Rules to follow on arrival


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NEW ROUTESNewark: non-stop daily service starts June 1 London Stansted: daily service starts June 8Istanbul Sabiha Gökçen: service resumes June 8Auckland-Bali: daily service starts June 14Santiago: fi ve times weekly service via São Paulo starts July 5

NEW ROUTE:Phnom Penh: daily service via

Yangon starts July 1

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ROUTE MAP

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TRAVEL TO ADDITIONAL DESTINATIONS WITH OUR CODESHARE PARTNERSWith 22 codeshare partners in 25 countries (21 airlines and an air/rail codeshare arrangement with France’s SNCF/TGV Air), Emirates has even more flight options, effectively expanding its network by over 300 destinations.


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*Sus

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ROUTE MAP


Our fleet of 268 aircraft includes 255 passenger aircraft and 13 SkyCargo aircraft

Up to 266-302 passengers. Range: 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

Emirates Fleet

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More Live TV equipped aircraft coming soon


AIRBUS A380-800 102 IN FLEETAll aircraft

20+ aircraft

3,000+

BOEING 777-200LR10 IN FLEET

All aircraft

3,000+

BOEING 777-300ER137 IN FLEET

All aircraft

100+ aircraft

up to 3,000+


1 retiringThis month:


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Range: 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

FLEET

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door, which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

BOEING 777F BOEING 777F EMIRATES SKYCARGO13 IN FLEET

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HERE’S WHAT CONNECTIVITY, ENTERTAINMENT AND SERVICES ARE AVAILABLE ON BOARD EACH AIRCRAFT TYPE

* First Class and Business Class; **Available in all rows in Economy Class, and in all seats in First Class and Business Class

Live TV, news & sport

First Class Shower Spa

Mobile phone

**In-seat power

Wi-Fi

*Onboard lounge

Data roaming

USB port

Number of channels

In-seattelephone

Up to 364 passengers. Range: 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

Up to 19 passengers. Range: 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1mThe Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com

AIRBUS A319 1 IN FLEET

BOEING 777-3005 IN FLEET

All aircraft 1,700+


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If you’re travelling to Stockholm then you have to try our food. Nytorget 6 is a great restaurant and I always try and go there when I’m back in the city. It’s perfect for reindeer and meatballs and lots of other traditional food. My advice is to try everything on the menu. Some things might seem a little strange to the palate if

you’re not from Sweden, but it’s pretty much all delicious – honestly. If you want to buy some traditional food to take home, then there are a

lot of markets and delicatessens in the city. Pick up some Vasterbotten cheese or Swedish honey.

You should defi nitely try a night on the town in Stockholm. I had a sort of rave period when I was living there, but I couldn’t really drink because I had to be up early for ballet school – dancing was always my stress relief. The city has a big electronic music scene and you’ll fi nd a lot of great clubs there. To recover from your big night out, go and walk around Stockholm Old Town. Enjoy all the buildings, the charm, the little shops, and sit in a cafe and drink double espressos while you recover.

If you’d like to try some exercise while you’re here, then like any major city there are lots of gyms you could go to. But if you really want to see Stockholm then you should go jogging in Djurgården – our Central Park. After that you can cool down with a visit to one of our cultural sites. We have too many museums and historic places to list here, but I would defi nitely make time to visit the Stockholm Royal Palace.

If you’re in town for a while, then an excursion is a good idea. I’m going to be biased and suggest Gothenburg (I was born there). If you take the express train from Stockholm you can be there in less than three hours. It’s a beautiful city and a couple of nights there is a great addition to your trip to Sweden.

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EAT Nytorget 6 TRY Vasterbotten cheese

WALK The Old Town CHECK OUT Djurgården Island

TOUR Stockholm Royal Palace TRAVEL TO Gothenburg

THE DETAILS

CELEBRITY DIRECTIONS

Emirates operates 10 weekly flights to Stockholm with the Boeing 777-300ER.

WORDS: Emma Coiler

Each month the great and the good curate a travel itinerary exclusively for Open Skies. This month, an Oscar winner (and new Lara Croft)

GUIDE TOSTOCKHOLM

Alicia Vikander’s

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