organic cardamom from the lush rainforests of Papua New Guinea

natural ingredients for youthful skin

five helpful hints for blending essential oils

summer edition 2011

summersummer edition 2011

this issue

It’s hard to believe that another year is already drawing to a close. Christmas shopping lists are being written and summer holiday daydreaming has begun.The final months of the year are often filled with optimistic anticipation as we ready ourselves for the busy season. But there can also be a sense of urgency to reach the goals set earlier in the year and this can result in some unwelcome stress.If you find yourself feeling the pressurethen perhaps allowing yourself ten minutesto sit back and read Oily will give you thebreathing space you need.This issue’s Harvest takes us to the tropical equatorial region of Papua New Guinea where a unique tribe produce exotic spicy Certified Organic Cardamom oil. Up Close investigates natural anti-ageing ingredients that are ideal for inclusion in your next product formulation and we also have some valuable tips for the budding essential oil blender!

Lucille Wilson, editor

04 Harvest: Certified Organic Cardamom oil High altitudes, rich with tradition.

12 SME Forum: Essential Oil Blending Make your product aromatically irresistible.

16 Up Close: Anti-ageing Ingredients Retain your youthful complexion.

20 News: Hands on Health One Health Organisation update.

22 Product Specification: Cardamom Oil – Certified Organic Specification for manufacturers.

23 Formulation: Cardamom Kiss Perfume Oil

Featuring Cardamom Certified Organic essential oil.

summer cover:CucumberCucumis sativusThe soothing benefits of Cucumber make it a very popular inclusion in after-sun skincare products. It offers refreshing and softening properties when incorporated in facial toners and light lotions. Cucumber is also recognised for its skin tightening abilities and is often utilised in anti-ageing formulations. Available as a Certified Organic water soluble herbal extract. Visit www.seoc.com.au for more information.

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harvest

the Cardamom plant flowers every four

months with a gentle white blossom. Its

arrival signifies the onset of the upcoming

pod harvest. opposite: Much of the harvest

transportation is carried out manually.

The remoteness of the farming region means

that villagers have to carry their sacks

of Cardamom to the trading point.

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The misty mountains of Papua New Guinea make the perfect farming environment for Certified Organic Cardamom.

Rainforest farmers & their rich aromatic spice oil…

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harvest

High up in the Baining Mountains in the East New Britain Province of Papua New Guinea an ancient tribe of people, known as the Komgi, work together to produce the delightfully spicy cardamom essential oil.

First introduced to the lush tropical region in the 1960s, the Elettaria cardamomum plant found an ideal home in the high altitude of the mountains. The warm temperatures experienced year-round provided superb organic growing conditions and the crop introduction brought the area significant diversification and a strong agricultural income.

The region achieved organic certification through The National Association for Sustainable Agriculture, Australia (NASAA) in 2003. Whilst this led to increased popularity and production of the oil, the Komgi people have still managed to uphold their traditional values and community structure.

The Komgi & the Cardamom PlantThe Komgi have lived in the dense rainforest covered mountains, over 1000 metres above sea level, for an estimated 35 thousand years. They are the oldest living inhabitants of the region and have a history steeped in tradition and customs. Their core values centre around Mother Nature. They build their homes from 100% natural materials, they farm by traditional organic methods and they celebrate their beliefs through symbolic music and dance.

The cardamom is farmed across approximately 200 hectares, an area that is a mere 10% of the total expanse of the Komgi’s traditional land. The farming territory is divided into family plots to ensure each family within the tribe has a continued source of income. Every child that is born is allocated a portion of land within the community’s boundaries to provide them with future crop cultivation opportunities.

The distinctive cardamom plant grows to form a mini forest and is often inter-planted with existing food gardens to enable short and long term crop rotations. >

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Clockwise from top: Ripe Cardamom pods are picked by hand and collected in large sacks ready for drying. Frequent heavy rains make

transport of the Cardamom harvest extremely difficult. In the Baining Mountains over 2000 hectares of land is recognised as belonging to the

Komgi. In 2010 the Secretariat of the Pacific Community funded an Organic Certification Expansion program increasing the farmer base from 170 to 300 certified farmers. The dense Cardamom plant is a distant relative of

Ginger and grows prolifically in the equatorial climate. All family members spend time harvesting the pods to ensure the maximum crop yield.

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Opposite top: Fresh pods need to be dried to avoid spoilage from the high temperatures and regular rain. Opposite bottom: Weddings, funerals and traditional events are celebrated with music and dances. The Afternoon Spirit Dancers help warn away negative spirits and welcome the evening.

New cardamom seedlings are hand sown during the wet season from January to March. They take approximately 18 months to reach maturity and will then continue to produce consistent crops every 4 months for at least 5 years.

The peak harvesting season, occurs during the middle of the year from June through until August and at this time the unique village community works harmoniously to guarantee all farming families achieve the greatest return from their farming plot.

The Cardamom Harvest During the harvest, the strength of the Komgi family unit is demonstrated through the dedication of each family member. Everyone is involved in harvesting the crops, including the children when their school holidays permit.

The farmers leave the central village location and trek to their respective farming plots, where they spend at least a week at the farm site until the entire crop has been hand-picked. The women in the tribe work together as a team and spend a full day at each family’s plot assisting with the harvest to increase the collection rate.

Once stockpiled, the fresh cardamom pods are carried to a collection point where they are assessed and dried ready for sale. A hot air drier, fueled by firewood, provides the farmers with the ability to manage their stock and minimise wastage or pod loss. Drying the pods at this early stage makes them non-perishable which is extremely important as fresh pods are quite delicate and can be susceptible to environmental damage.

From this collection point the farmers transport their dried cardamom along dirt tracks to a buying location where Sydney Essential Oil Co.’s supply partner purchases all the produce ready for oil distillation and the general spice trade. >

harvest

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Certified Organic Cardamom Essential Oil At the central processing facility the dried cardamom pods are graded and de-husked to remove the small seed from the outer fibrous layer. The pellet shaped seeds are also graded to ensure consistent oil quality.

The dried seeds are processed through large stainless steel steam distillation units and the resulting oil and water mixture is collected and carefully separated to isolate the richly aromatic essential oil. To produce 1 kilogram of essential oil, approximately 20 kilograms of cardamom seeds are processed through this method.

Certified Organic Cardamom essential oil contains high levels of 1,8-cineole and alpha-terpinylacetate. It possesses a fresh, crisp spicy aroma that blends well with citruses and warmer spice notes such as ginger, black pepper or sweet fennel.

In natural cosmetics Cardamom oil is growing in popularity as it imparts a depth of scent to the aroma profile of the product and offers warming and toning properties to the skin. Natural soap makers incorporate the aromatic oil in their formulations as it offers beneficial anti-bacterial properties. In perfumery, Cardamom is often used to produce a rich luxurious fragrance and is commonly employed by many famous perfumers such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Versace.

Certified Organic Cardamom oil is a truly distinctive ingredient. Why not incorporate it into your next product design to experience the rich aromatic delights of this exotic spice oil. 1

Opposite top: At the trading point, Sydney Essential Oil Co.’s supply partner purchases the entire Komgi Cardamom harvest and utilises it for essential oil extraction or the general spice trade. The Komgi spend a portion of their income on store bought items such as rice or salt. Opposite below from left to right: Dried Cardamom seeds are processed through the large steam distillation unit to produce the rich aromatic essential oil. The resulting mixture of essential oil and water is further processed to remove any impurities and isolate the oil molecules. Certified Organic Cardamom essential oil contains high levels of 1,8-cineole. This provides a pleasant spicy aroma that can assist in easing respiratory ailments such as coughs and colds.

harvest

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Our top five helpful hints for blending essential oils.

Scent your product naturally

see our Formulations section online at www.seoc.com.au for a variety of essential oil blends utilising some of the most popular oils such as Lavender, Mandarin and Cedarwood.

Choosing to include essential oils in your formulation can help set your product apart from your competitors and make it more appealing to a consumer. The natural aroma profile you achieve through pure essential oils offers a unique point of difference whilst also providing the user with aromatherapeutic benefits. You can design a blend for relaxation and de-stressing or perhaps invigoration and stimulation; maybe you want a product that offers anti-ageing properties or helps cleanse the skin. These tips will help you create the ideal oil combination for your next product. >

sme fOrum

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Scent your product naturally

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sme fOrum

one:

two:

three:

four:

KnOW What yOu Want tO aChieve

If you are new to blending essential oils the

vast array of options can be quite daunting

but by having a clear understanding of

what you want your product to do, you

can help simplify the selection process and

achieve the perfect result.

Every essential oil offers a distinctive

aroma note whilst also imparting specific

aromatherapeutic properties for the mind

and body. Understanding both of these

elements will help you choose the right

oils for your application.

A balanced blend will incorporate the

traditional top, middle and base notes and

will work synergistically to provide the

desired benefits. By selecting oils that

complement each other aromatically and

by property you can increase your

product’s efficacy and overall appeal.

experiment With sOmething neW

There are hundreds of essential oils to

choose from when designing your blend.

Citruses, florals, woods, herbs and exotics

are just some of the types available and

with so much to select from there can be a

tendency to stick with the familiar but a

little experimentation can lead to some of

the most exciting discoveries. By testing an

unusual oil combination you can encounter

surprising results and find a blend that is

truly unique.

Next time you are undertaking trial

blending why not try an unexpected note

of May Chang, Petitgrain or Spearmint for

an extra boost of character.

Be aWare Of COntraindiCatiOns

Some essential oils are not recommended

for certain skin types or for people who

experience specific conditions and it is

important for you to be conscious of how

your product will be used by a consumer.

For example if you are developing a

range of baby products it is wise to

steer clear of oils that can be sensitising

or overly potent, as children are far

more delicate than adults. Typically, safe

oils for children are Chamomile,

Lavender and Mandarin, however

researching the inclusion of other notes

such as Tangerine, Sweet Orange,

Eucalyptus or Sandalwood can offer

greater blending opportunities and

provide you with more aroma options.

COnsider the ph and fLash pOint

Another aspect of your essential oil blend

that you should consider is how it will

react within your actual product

application. If you are developing a

light-weight emulsion then a highly acidic

essential oil blend could pose a problem

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for stability or preservative efficacy. The pH

of your product directly impacts its

integrity and structure and over time an

acidic blend could cause it to lose viscosity

or split. It can also affect how efficiently

the preserving system maintains optimal

conditions. It is important to test the pH of

your product during the development

stage to ensure your blend does not create

an adverse reaction.

Essential oil flash point is an additional

factor that must be taken into account

when designing a blend for use in candles.

The temperature at which the oils ignite

can be problematic if you are working

with soy wax as it has a much lower

melting point. By incorporating essential

oils that have high flash points, such as the

wood types, you can counteract this issue

and create an aromatically rich blend. If

producing commercial quantities of your

essential oil blend we recommend

undertaking laboratory flash point testing.

COntrOL the BOttOm Line

There is no doubt that Rose, Jasmine and

Neroli have some of the most wonderful

aromas for essential oil blending however,

they are not always the most economical

option. It is important to keep your budget

in mind when creating your blend so that

there are no surprises when it comes time

to finalise your product costing.

Thankfully, the high aroma potency

of precious oils means you only need

to use them in low percentages such as

0.5% or less to still achieve outstanding

aromatic results.

If the development of your blend appears

to be a little more difficult than you

expected or you just don’t have the time

available to dedicate to the process then

why not turn to someone for help? Here at

Sydney Essential Oil Co. we offer a

professional Signature Scent design service

that can develop a blend specifically for

your needs. We can create an exclusive

blend that meets your brief and your

budget, if you are interested in this service

please see our website www.seoc.com.au

for more information or contact

sales@seoc.com.au with your enquiry. 1

five:

With so much to select from there can be a tendency to stick with the familiar but a little experimentation can lead to some of the most exciting discoveries. By testing an unusual oil combination you can encounter surprising results and find a blend that is truly unique.

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nature’s secrets toyouthful skinIt is unavoidable that the years pass and your skin changes, but by utilising key anti-ageing ingredients you can help slow the process.

Wouldn’t it be wonderful if your skin could remain as it was when you were a child? Fresh, vibrant and full of life, free from wrinkles, age spots and sun damage. Unfortunately, the secrets of time control are yet to be discovered but we have discovered many natural ingredients that can help hold back the years.

What happens to skin as it ages?Even in your early 20’s your skin is beginning to change. The natural regeneration processes that occur at a cellular level start to slow and environmental exposure affects all skin types and complexions. Sunlight, pollution and even daily hygiene routines can impact the condition of the skin and change it permanently.

The dermis layer, beneath the outer epidermis, contains connective tissue along with collagen and elastin protein fibres that give the skin its strength, elasticity and flexibility. It also contains sebaceous glands and blood vessels that both have a role in the production of beautiful skin texture. As we gets older our dermis becomes thinner. It loses its density and the sebaceous glands become less active. This can lead to a dry, sometimes dull, complexion and can result in flaking, cracking and scaly skin.

External elements also have an impact on the skin’s structure. High exposure to sun, wind and extreme temperatures can accelerate the ageing process and make it difficult to reverse any degeneration such as hyper-pigmentation or capillary damage. >

up CLOse

youthful skinIt is unavoidable that the years pass and your skin changes, but by utilising key anti-ageing ingredients you can help slow the process.

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Health and nutrition are also important physiological aspects that impact the wellbeing of skin. Maintaining water levels, eating vitamin rich foods and steering clear of the toxins found in cigarettes, all assist in preserving youthfulness. A regular skincare regime also supports a younger looking appearance and the following ingredients will help achieve the best results.

Anti-ageing Carrier OilsAvocado oil is rich in oleic acid and is recognised for its cellular regeneration properties. It is easily absorbed and when regularly applied to the skin can increase hydration levels and improve elasticity. It has a high sterol content which is beneficial for age spots or sun damage and is said to reduce pre-mature ageing. With high levels of vitamins A, D and E along with potassium and lecithin, Avocado oil has been proven to increase collagen production which makes the skin appear smoother and more moisturised.

Grapeseed oil contains high levels of linoleic acid and offers excellent emollient properties. Rich in polyphenol anti-oxidants, it is regarded as a superb oil for anti-ageing formulations as it smoothes and softens the skin whilst minimising collagen loss through free radical damage. Its light texture and low odour make it a first-rate addition to a wide selection of applications such as creams and lotions, massage products, soaps and serums. It is also low allergenic so can be used with the most sensitive skin types.

Rose hip oil is famous for its anti-ageing benefits. It contains large amounts of linoleic and linolenic acids as well as vitamin C, that all provide healing and regenerative properties. The oil also contains a high level of all-trans retinoic acid which promotes collagen production within the dermis layer. When utilised in formulations to combat age-lines, sun damage and scarring, it will strengthen blood vessels, minimise wrinkles and improve the overall texture of the skin.

Other oils such as camellia, jojoba, evening primrose and wheatgerm possess anti-ageing benefits. By selecting a range of carrier oils you can enhance and amplify the efficacy of your product.

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up CLOse

Anti-ageing Essential OilsCarrot seed oil has long been recognised for its anti-ageing properties. It encourages cellular growth through blood vessel stimulation and improves skin tone and elasticity by boosting collagen production. It is rich in anti-oxidants and vitamins that minimise fine lines and age spots and also help reduce the appearance of scarring. The depurative nature of Carrot seed oil also aids in minimising toxin levels.

Geranium oil balances skin sebum and supports the sebaceous glands, resulting in a suppler complexion. It increases circulation and removes congestion which can cause sluggish cellular activity. When used in conjunction with other cytophylactic essential oils, it offers excellent healing properties and lessens the likelihood of scar tissue forming.

Lemon oil is a natural rubefacient, meaning it stimulates blood flow. By stabilising cellular fluid levels it ensures optimal circulation and helps remove toxins. It also brightens the complexion through dead skin cell removal and is popular in skin lightening formulations.

Neroli, myrrh and lavender essential oils are also key anti-ageing ingredients and when used in combination can be a powerful tool in maintaining beautiful skin.

Other Anti-ageing IngredientsCalendula infused oil and herbal extract are recognised for their regenerative properties. Calendular contains high levels of flavonoids which increase the production of collagen and encourages cellular repair. Being available in both water and oil soluble forms enables this highly functional herbal ingredient to suit multiple applications

Green Tea and White Tea extracts both contain powerful anti-oxidants that are proven to help fight typical signs of ageing. They decrease the visibility of fine lines and protect the skin from excessive drying. Regular skin application will help boost collagen levels and improve elasticity.

Formulating with one or more of these ingredients will help you achieve positive skin results. If you want to find your new anti-ageing ingredient, contact our sales team today on +61 2 9565 2828. 1

2020

neWs

Throughout the year our tailor-made

essential oil and massage oil blends have

been distributed to a wide range of ongoing

projects and facilities. They have been

utilised by naturopaths, massage therapists

and many other practitioners to provide

holistic healthcare for those in need.

Hands on Health is one of the groups

that has received OHO donations. It is a

community of practitioners that volunteer

their time and energy to promote sustainable

health and wellbeing to marginalised

people in Australia and overseas.

Their healing clinic in Croydon, Victoria

offers massage therapy, naturopathy

and podiatry services to people suffering

from a wide range of mental and physical

issues. From long term mental illness, to

homelessness and domestic violence, the

centre treats up to 16 clients a day.

Their outreach program, where they are

able to also assist isolated elderly people

and migrants seeking refugee status

in the Maribyrnong Immigration

Detention Centre, sees them care for

up to 20 clients a day, many of whom

have never experienced a massage or

holistic treatment.

Massage therapist, Alys Cavanagh from

the Croydon centre says, “great success has

been achieved in helping clients manage

insomnia and anxiety levels by utilising the

Sleep Well and Don’t Panic essential oil

blends. The impact has been quite

profound; when their lives have been

hanging by a thread the use of these

products in their treatment has helped

them overcome many challenges.”

Alys goes on to say, “these oils speak to

the client’s self worth, they appreciate the

quality of the products we use with them

and for some people who have little to no

self-esteem, something so simple makes the

world of difference.”

The centre also treats people suffering

from drug or alcohol addiction, physical or

psychological abuse and adults with severe

intellectual impairments. Every client

receives the minimal monthly massage and

SEOC products are utilised according to the

client’s needs. The positive feedback has

been extremely encouraging and we are

proud to continue the collaboration with

One Health Organisation as they provide

the community such worthwhile services.

If you are interested in learning more,

making a donation, or volunteering your

practitioner skills, please begin by

contacting our marketing department at

marketing@seoc.com.au 1

The sponsorship program between Sydney Essential Oil Co. and One Health Organisation has enriched the lives of many people during 2011.

Hands on Health

The sponsorship program between Sydney Essential Oil Co. and One Health Organisation has enriched the lives of many people during 2011.

Hands on Health

peppermint oil is a key ingredient in the One Health Organisation Body Bliss essential oil blend. It offers cooling relief from muscular aches and pains, as well as joint stiffness and mild inflammation. With a refreshing and uplifting aroma it is an excellent inclusion in blends for bodywork.

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product Cardamom oil – Certified Organic

Botanical Name: Elettaria cardamomum

Origin: Papua New Guinea

Appearance: Clear mobile flowing liquid

Colour: Pale straw yellow to light yellow

Odour: Characteristic cardamom

Plant part used: Seed

Extraction method: Steam distilled

physio-chemical properties

Specific Gravity at 20ºC: 0.920 – 0.949

Refractive Index at 20ºC: 1.459 –1.470

Optical Rotation at 20ºC: +18.00º to +45.00º

Flash Point: 70ºC in closed cup

Oil Components typical analysis

1, 8-cineole: 16 – 43

a-Terpinyl acetate: 25 – 52

d-Limonene: 1 – 9

Linalool: 2 – 8

Linalyl acetate: Trace – 10

a-terpineol: Trace – 5

a-pinene: Trace – 5

Sabinene: Trace – 5

b-pinene: Trace – 5

Other informationPackaging: as requiredStorage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place without direct sunlight or heat.

for more information, contact sydney essential Oil Co. +61 2 9565 2828.

prOduCt speCifiCatiOn

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fOrmuLatiOn

Cardamom Kiss Perfume oilperformance: long-lasting perfume designed for summer evening wear.appearance: yellow coloured oil, light density fluid.aroma: sweet, warm, exotic spice aroma with floral undertones.stability: expected shelf life 18 months subject to manufacturing practice.recommended use: apply direct to wrists, behind ears, neck & inner elbow.

method of manufacture1. Combine ingredients in Phase A and mix well. Allow to synergise for 30 minutes.2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and mix well.3. Add Phase A to Phase B and mix well.4. Add Phase C and mix well.5. Bottle in a 10mL Perfume Rollette for easy roll-on application.6. Leave for 24 hours to allow all ingredients to thoroughly combine prior to use.

for ingredients, contact sydney essential Oil Co. +61 2 9565 2828.

disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken

in presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any

product manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing claim

and adequate testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof.

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phase raw material % w/w

A Bergamot (bergaptene free) essential oil – certified organic 0.87

Rosewood essential oil 0.87

Cardamom essential oil – certified organic 0.375

Rose Premium absolute 0.375

Lotus Pink absolute 0.255

Peru Balsam oil 0.255

B Camellia oil – certified organic 50

Grapeseed oil 45

C Vitamin E natural 2

100% w/w

Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd ABN 95 096 439 299

11 Burrows Road South, St Peters NSW 2044 Australia

PO Box 226 St Peters NSW 2044

T: + 61 2 9565 2828 F: + 61 2 9519 8009 E: sales@seoc.com.au

Order on-line www.seoc.com.au

Office hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Friday

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