ORGANIC -Awareness Training
-
Upload
photonguyz -
Category
Documents
-
view
222 -
download
0
Transcript of ORGANIC -Awareness Training
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
1/36
ORGANIC Textiles
-Awareness Training
On 24.11.2007
AtArmstrong Knitting Mills, Tirupur
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
2/36
Cotton types
Conventional Cotton
Organic Cotton
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
3/36
Conventional Cotton
Land : Previously cultivated with pesticides /
chemicals / fertilizers
Seeds : Any thing (Genetically Modified or
conventional etc) During cultivation : usage of any pesticides,
insecticides or Fertilizers which are TOXIC
(poisonous) in nature to human health
Sprays / solid items spread on surface
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
4/36
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
5/36
Organic cotton
ADVANTAGES
25% Less water required
Less impact on the environment
Maintain the fertility of the soil
Production cost 13-20% lower than the Conventional cotton
FACTS (against conventional cotton)
10-15% of land only used (85-90% for Conventional cotton)
Yield is 4-6% lower than conventional cotton
1.4% only available in India.
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
6/36
Current Situation of the Market
Organic market growth:
Over the last five years the US and Canada has experienced a22 per cent increase in organic textiles sales.
Over the next five years the US predicts a 44 per cent growth inorganic clothing sales, with baby products to be the next majorgrowth area.
Over the last five years expenditure on organic cotton textile
products has increased by 30 per cent in Europe.
SOURCE magazine : Organic Monitor, 2006
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
7/36
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
8/36
Why buying organic textile?Health Concern:
Consumers want natural and organic fibers:
The skin is our biggest organ. It contributes to the metabolism and to the respiration of thebody. It is sensitive to heat and cold, to humidity and to dryness.
The choice of clothing has an important influence on the well-being. The pure natural fibre isin a certain way a continuation of the human skin on the outside. It lets the skin breathe.Synthetic fibres however do not allow this breathing and makes you feel uncomfortable.
Cotton is very skin kind because it allows circulating air and it does not hinder the skin in thehumidity . Especially for allergic persons it is very recommendable, due to its smooth fibresurface.
Allergies and asthma arise from loss of the bodys natural resistance to allergens,often beginning with early exposure to the incredibly intensive chemical farming andindustrial treatment, of the foods we eat, and fabrics we wear and sleep on.
Our ancestors did not suffer these maladies, because modern industry since 1945 haschemically saturated everything: our homes, fabrics, foods, and air.
Try replacing conventional bedding with untreated organic cotton sheets and bedding.These natural fibres breathe better, and so do their owners.
Source : GREENPEACE ACTION
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
9/36
Environment Concern:
From the early days of the industrial revolution, the textile industry has been seen as amajor polluter of rivers .Textile effluents were generally all directed to watercourses, oftenwith no prior treatment to remove contaminants .
Now the situation has evolved and the textile industry is closely regulated but still most ofthe chemicals and dyes entering in the textile process are of petrochemical origin.
When consumers buys an organic textile, they want to participate to the reduction ofpollution. They are not concerned only by their well being but they want toencourage the Clean textile Industry.
Recent climate changes has made people realized that human impact on the environmentwill lead to unbearable living conditions.
If we want to live in harmony with nature, we should urgently reduced any type of pollutionand the use of chemicals.
Before the industrial revolution, textile industry was using natural product, if theycould do it by then, we are able to do it now!
Why buying organic textile?
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
10/36
Products present in the organic textile market:
Casual for men & women, Sport textile, home textile, hygiene textile.
Products with a great future in organic textile market:
Baby products: Mothers aware of the effect of chemicallytreated cotton on child skin.
Products in direct contact with skin: towels, underwear,
bed linen
Products to be developed for a solid market:Formal textile products: designated for the upper working class with a
high paying capacity.
Organic textile Market needs?
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
11/36
Organic textilesField of application
The inspection procedure defined in the standards applies to the
whole production process :
Preparation and processing of fibres (mechanicalprocess)
Manufacturing of the fabric (weaving, knitting)
Finishing (bleaching, dyeing, printing)
Manufacturing and labelling of the final product.
All the proper production site and the sites for outsourcing activities will be inspected
once a year.
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
12/36
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
13/36
Overview of the Textile Industry Raw materials
Origin of the textile industry : use of only natural fibres.
Plant origin: cotton, flax, hemp or animal origin: wool, silk.
Synthetic Fibre: Fibres derived from petroleum polymers (acrylic, polyester andpolyamide)
Artificial Fibre: Fibres derived from natural polymers but processed with chemicalreaction.
1990: chemical fibres = 45% of world production
= 42,5 million tonnes.
Cert. Body allows : maximum of 5% of chemical fibres for technicalnecessity only
Cotton: 25%of the pesticides used in the world for only 2.5 % of the agriculturesurface
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
14/36
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
15/36
Spinning, weaving and knitting
Synthetic finishers are prohibited, permitted are only finishers of natural originsuch as those listed below for spinning, weaving and knitting: cellulose, dextrin,gums and plant-derived resins, clay, chalks, unmodified starch, pectin, alginates.
It is permitted to use paraffin for wool knitting and cotton spinning insofar it
cannot be substituted by a non-petrochemical substance up to now.
Work with auxiliaries suppliers to find natural substitute for actual auxiliaries
coming from petro-chemistry.
Progressive standards to allow technological evolution:
Same product available in natural origin and in petrochemical origin: Go for the
Natural One.
Silicones (substitution by alkyl poly-glucoside, fatty acid derivatives)
Overview of the Textile Industry
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
16/36
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
17/36
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
18/36
Organic TextilesInspection Process
Manufacturer and distributor are both submitted to annual inspections.Inspected criteria are:
Transport, Stock:
For every transport of certified raw materials or finished products, the containersshould be clearly labeled with the name and address of the certification body.
Storage of organic and non organic products should be clearly identified andprotected from mixing risks.
Traceability through the whole chain:
Suppliers and Lot numbers of the raw materials should be easy to recall from themanufacturing, packaging sheets.
Processes, hygiene and cleaning of manufacturing facilities.
Manufacturing procedures should be written for the operators in charge.
Knowledge of the procedures by the operator would be checked during the inspection.
A cleaning procedure for every step of manufacturing should be written and presentedduring the inspection.
Energy management, Waste management
Written procedures concerning the waste management (selective sorting), thedischarge management and the energy management system with programme forimprovement will be asked
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
19/36
Organic TextilesInspection Process
Management of liquid evacuations.Thewater resulting from the pre-treatment or dyeing operations should be treated andanalyse before any reject in the environment.
A register of water analysis should be presented to the inspector, these analysis shouldbe in conformity with the local regulation.
Quality of the finished product
The color fastness of the products will be tested according to the ISO 105 norms.Criteria for acceptance are defined in the standards.
Any quality control (default) should be registered and the procedure should bepresented to the inspector.
Packaging
The technical data sheet of the packaging material should be approved. Allowed areany recyclable material. PVC, polystyrene, acrylate polymers are not allowed.
Global quality system management
The quality system will be evaluated (traceability from raw material to finishedproduct, complaint registration)
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
20/36
Organic textiles
Important
No contamination of
Organic cotton
allowed for any
reason
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
21/36
Organic textiles
Important steps to follow
1. Proper Identification of Organic
materials in all stages(Yarn, Grey & processed fabrics, cut
panels, Sewn garments semi
finished / finished, during packing,
and delivery).Sticker / Boards or dedicate packs
for Organic materials
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
22/36
Organic textiles
Important steps to follow
2. Proper STORAGE of materials in
all stages (Yarn, Grey & processedfabrics, cut panels, Sewn garments
semi finished / finished, during
packing, and delivery).
Covering with proper re-cyclable PPmaterial or with organic fabric
covers
Providing separate area for this
items
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
23/36
Organic textiles
Important steps to follow
3. Proper HANDLING METHODS of
materials in all stages
No mixing of conventional cotton and ORGANIC
cotton items
No usage of any chemicals or Petroleum
products
No phenyl / Dettol / cleaning chemicals used for
factory cleaning & storage areas cleaning
Hand cleaning before touching items
Footwear to be clean or avoided in production
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
24/36
Organic textiles
Important steps to follow
3. Maintenance of Records in all
stages
Traceability of ORGANIC items is must from yarn
to delivery. Hence, Records shall identify the LotNO./ Order NO. etc in all Records
Mention the Organic details in all transactions
and material movements
Maintain these records carefully for at-least one
year. For Transaction Certificate fromcertifying body.
If any querry/ Claim from Customer after
delivery, these records are very important to
safeguard company interest.
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
25/36
Organic Textiles- Certification
Minimum SOCIAL CriteriaApplies to processing level only
1. No CHILD LABOUR
2. No Forced Labour or Bonded Labour
3. No Discrimination practiced
4. No Harsh or in-humane treatment is allowed
5. Freedom of Association, collective Bargaining respected
6. Safe & hygienic working conditions
7. Wages, benefits
8. Employment is freely chosen
9. Working hours per week, weekly off & Overtime
10.Regular employment provided
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
26/36
Organic Textiles-
Certification
Quality Assurance System :-
Audit of Processing and
Manufacturing stages
Residue Testing
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
27/36
Organic Textiles- Certification
SPINNING
Paraffin, Paraffin Oils and
Substances on Basis of Natural
Raw Materials only allowed
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
28/36
Organic Textiles- Certification
KNITTING
Knitting Oils must NOT contain
Heavy metals.
Other inputs are allowed on basisof Natural Raw Materials only
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
29/36
Organic Textiles- Certification
Pre-Treatment, Wet ProcessingProhibited : Ammonia Treatment, Optical Brightening
Allowed : Mechanical / Thermal treatments
Allowed with
Conditions : Bleaches (Oxygen based)
Mercerization (allowed with Auxiliaries thatmeet the basic requirements as set in
standards)
Alkaline must be recycled
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
30/36
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
31/36
Organic Textiles- Certification
PRINTING
Natural and other auxiliaries and
Synthetic dyes that meet the
requirements stated in STD.
Discharge Printing methods are
prohibitedAZO dyes are prohibited
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
32/36
Organic Textiles- Certification
Finishing
Mechanical, thermal and Other physical finishing
methods, Natural auxiliaries and GMO free
enzymes are allowed.
Synthetic Auxiliaries are permitted for softening,
Milling and Felting (but they must meet STD
requirements)
Flame proofing auxiliaries are exceptionally
permitted if their use is legally required in the
country and for the product. (But they meet the
STD requirements)
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
33/36
Organic Textiles- Certification
PRINTING
Natural and other auxiliaries and
Synthetic dyes that meet the
requirements stated in STD.
Discharge Printing methods are
prohibitedAZO dyes are prohibited
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
34/36
Organic Textiles- Certification
AccessoriesIN GENERAL ;
All accessories must meet the residue limits
No Threatened timber
No PVC, Nickel or Chrome
EMBROIDERY YARNS, LABELS, INLAYS : Originated from Natural
fibres and Viscose only.
SEWING THREADS, ELASTIC BANDS, YARNS & SEAM BINDINGS:
Natural and synthetic
APPLIQUE : Natural materials only.
BUTTONS & PRESS STUDS: Allowed are natural Raw materials and
Metal. Metal buttons must be free of CHROME & NICKEL.ZIPS: Allowed are tapes of Natural Materials and Polyester. Allowed
are Chains of Metal (free of Chrome & NICKEL) and plastics
(without PVC).
BUCKLES: Allowed are tapes of Natural Materials and Polyester.
Allowed are Chains of Metal (free of Chrome & NICKEL)
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
35/36
Organic Textiles- Certification
Other elementsEnvironmental Management (Policy, Procedures for control)
Waste Water Management (pH, COD, temp, Copper, etc)
Storage, Packaging and Transport
Record keeping, Internal Quality Assurance
Technical Quality Parameters (as per standard)
-
7/29/2019 ORGANIC -Awareness Training
36/36
Organic Textiles- Certification
PRINTING
Natural and other auxiliaries and
Synthetic dyes that meet the
requirements stated in STD.
Discharge Printing methods are
prohibitedAZO dyes are prohibited