Olive Oil Standards and Labeling
Transcript of Olive Oil Standards and Labeling
Olive Oil Standards Olive Oil Standards and Labelingand Labeling
•• StandardsStandards•• AdulterationAdulteration•• LabelingLabeling•• Quality Quality
AssuranceAssurance•• PricesPrices
Paul VossenPaul Vossen
Extra Virgin = Extra Virgin = Easy SchmeezyEasy SchmeezyDefects come from the extremesDefects come from the extremes
•• Severe olive fly damage with rotten fruitSevere olive fly damage with rotten fruit•• Frozen fruitFrozen fruit•• Severe fruit damage Severe fruit damage (harvest (harvest -- transport transport -- storage)storage)
•• Very dirty or contaminated or broken down Very dirty or contaminated or broken down processing equipmentprocessing equipment
•• Stored on sediments too longStored on sediments too long•• Stored too long until it goes rancidStored too long until it goes rancid
Very few California olive oils are not extra virgin
Extra Virgin is more expensiveExtra Virgin is more expensive•• CanCan’’t do it by neglect t do it by neglect –– no junk olivesno junk olives•• CanCan’’t harvest from the groundt harvest from the ground•• Need modern processing equipmentNeed modern processing equipment•• Requires North African and MidRequires North African and Mid--East East
modernization modernization
Bulk Oil Prices (Bulk Oil Prices (€€/ton /ton 33--2525--07)07)•• SpainSpain: Ex Virgin (Andalucia) 2,704
Ex Virgin (Catalonia DOP) 3,450Virgin 2,674 Refined 2,764
• Italy: Ex Virgin 3,450Refined 2,770 Pomace 1,441
•• Rotterdam:Rotterdam: Crude Canola 585 Crude Sunflower 717Peanut 1,180
Mercacei # 50 Feb-April 2007
REAL Olive oil is the most expensiveREAL Olive oil is the most expensive•• Slippery business article Slippery business article –– New YorkerNew Yorker•• Adulteration is and has been rampantAdulteration is and has been rampant•• Refined and Pomace mixesRefined and Pomace mixes
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN SEED DIFFERENCES BETWEEN SEED OILS and OLIVE OILOILS and OLIVE OIL
Virgin Olive Oil• Mechanical separation of oil
from fruit-water and solids at 50o-85oF
• Natural antioxidants(Polyphenols)• No solvents
• Monounsaturated fat• Natural cis form
• Flavor
Seed Oil• Solvent extraction w/hexane
• Fractionally distilled• Expeller pressed - refined• Acidity neutralized w/soda • 340-500oF to remove color,
odor, & solvent residue• Artificial antioxidants
added (BHT) (BHA)Polyunsaturated fat
• Hydrogenated trans form• Bland –greasy
COMPARISON OF FATS AND OILSCOMPARISON OF FATS AND OILS
10 76 14
12 72 16
13 58 29
15 9 76
15 62 23
19 33 48
27 54 19
44 9 47
48 3 49
51 10 39
69 3 28
91 2 7
8 33 59
0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100%
Safflower
Sunflower
Corn
Olive
Soybean
Peanut
Cottonseed
Lard
Beef Tallow
Palm
Butter
Coconut
Canola
SATURATED POLYUNSATURATED MONOUNSATURATED
Genetically Engineered Genetically Engineered Soybeans and Rapeseed (canola)Soybeans and Rapeseed (canola)contain a high percentage of oleic contain a high percentage of oleic
fatty acidfatty acid
Olive oil from seeds?
EU History LessonEU History LessonEuropean Standards writtenEuropean Standards written::•• To remove adulterated oils from the market To remove adulterated oils from the market •• To remove To remove lampantalampanta oils from the marketoils from the market•• To allow for the sale of refined and pomace oilsTo allow for the sale of refined and pomace oils•• Price determines value (virgin)Price determines value (virgin)
NINE GRADES NINE GRADES 1.1. Extra Virgin Extra Virgin 2.2. VirginVirgin3.3. Ordinary Ordinary 4.4. Lampante (Lamp)Lampante (Lamp)5.5. RefinedRefined6.6. Olive OilOlive Oil7.7. Crude Pomace OilCrude Pomace Oil8.8. Refined Pomace OilRefined Pomace Oil9.9. Olive Pomace OilOlive Pomace Oil
VIRGINVIRGIN
REFINEDREFINED
Paul Vossen
Legal Standards EnforcementLegal Standards Enforcement
LaboratoryLaboratory
SensorySensory
Paul Vossen
OLIVE OIL STANDARDSOLIVE OIL STANDARDSExtra Virgin Olive OilExtra Virgin Olive Oil
• Less Than 0.8% Free Acidity• Less Than 20 ppm Peroxide Level• Made Mechanically• Taste Panel Rating of Zero Defects• Taste Panel Rating of Some Positive
Attributes
Paul Vossen
•• Sterol ContentSterol Content•• Tocopherols Tocopherols –– Polyphenols Polyphenols -- PigmentsPigments•• Fatty Acid ProfileFatty Acid Profile•• Saturated Fatty Acids in 2Saturated Fatty Acids in 2--positionposition•• Unsaponifiable MaterialUnsaponifiable Material•• Wax ContentWax Content•• StigmastadienesStigmastadienes•• Erythrodiol + UvaolErythrodiol + Uvaol•• Hydrocarbon ContentHydrocarbon Content•• Presence of Presence of transtrans fatty acidsfatty acids•• Color Color –– AspectAspect•• Free Acidity Free Acidity –– Peroxide ValuePeroxide Value•• UV Absorbency (bitterness & stability)UV Absorbency (bitterness & stability)•• Water and Insoluble ImpuritiesWater and Insoluble Impurities•• Flash PointFlash Point•• Metal Traces Metal Traces –– Halogenated SolventsHalogenated Solvents•• Sensory CharacteristicsSensory Characteristics
Paul Vossen
IOC IOC STANDARDSSTANDARDS
Australian National Show Australian National Show (Richard Gawel)(Richard Gawel)
1997 1998 1999 2000 2001
Entries
Total 30 40 35 38 52
FFA
Ave. Small Vol 0.45 - 0.20 0.20 0.20
Ave. Large Vol 0.40 - 0.24 0.26 0.25
Ave. Bulk n/a - 0.67 0.33 0.31
Overall Average 0.42 - 0.33 0.24 0.24
Tasting Results
Gold 13%# 5%# 3% 3% 4%
Silver 7% 8% 11% 11% 2%
Bronze 7% 8% 26% 18% 38%
Award Winners 27% 21% 40% 32% 44%
Disqualifications 23% 15% 23% 18% 14%
Free Fatty Acid LevelFree Fatty Acid Level•• Crude measure of qualityCrude measure of quality•• 0.8 is very high 0.8 is very high –– 0.5 is high0.5 is high•• In Australia In Australia –– oils with 0.1 oils with 0.1
to 0.2 received the most and to 0.2 received the most and highest medalshighest medals
•• In Australia In Australia –– oils above 0.3 oils above 0.3 received no medal or were received no medal or were disqualifieddisqualified
Fancy LaboratoriesFancy LaboratoriesHow much bad oil (2% FFA) can you mix with good oil How much bad oil (2% FFA) can you mix with good oil
(0.2% FFA) to meet the 0.5(0.2% FFA) to meet the 0.5--0.8% FFA standard?0.8% FFA standard?
Three Olive Oil ProductsThree Olive Oil ProductsBulk & Low cost Bulk & Low cost –– RefinedRefined• $5.99 to $9.99/bottle• $23-30 per gallon
Specialty Specialty –– PremiumPremium• $10 – 30 per bottle• $ 60-300 per gallon
Medium Priced Medium Priced Imports Imports –– Low to ? Low to ?
QualityQuality•$5 to $13.99/bottle•$30-50 per gallon
Paul Vossen
We Use EUROPEAN Standards We Use EUROPEAN Standards Because We DonBecause We Don’’t Know Any Bettert Know Any Better
European Standards are based on the European Standards are based on the MINIMUM (level of defects)MINIMUM (level of defects)
Status quo •• USDA & CDFA European Voluntary Standards USDA & CDFA European Voluntary Standards •• COOCCOOC European Voluntary StandardEuropean Voluntary Standard•• No Independent Taste PanelNo Independent Taste Panel•• No Marketing Order (Commission)No Marketing Order (Commission)•• No enforcement No enforcement
Paul Vossen
Cheap Cheap imports imports typically typically
have defects have defects #1 Defect = Rancid - old oils (not fresh)#2 Defect = Fusty - cheap oils - low cost producers
from ground harvested or poorly handled fruit#3 Defect = Heated Flavor - Mix of refined &
pomace oil up to IOC standard of non-detectable
Problem: No US law enforces Problem: No US law enforces ““Extra VirginExtra Virgin”” StandardStandard
SSolutionsolutions•• DonDon’’t compete with a crooked industryt compete with a crooked industry•• Embarrass the cheaters Embarrass the cheaters •• Expose the fraud to the press Expose the fraud to the press •• Work with legislators & DAWork with legislators & DA’’ss•• Support producer and consumer rightsSupport producer and consumer rights•• Develop a whole new standardDevelop a whole new standard
Vocabulary of a LabelVocabulary of a Label•• Extra VirginExtra Virgin•• Pure Pure •• LightLight•• AcidityAcidity•• First Cold PressFirst Cold Press•• Harvest DateHarvest Date•• Bottled/Produced in ItalyBottled/Produced in Italy•• Seals and MedalsSeals and Medals
FRESH OLIVE OILFRESH OLIVE OIL
(extra virgin)(extra virgin)
Grown in Placer CountyGrown in Placer County25 acres of Olseninni Family Estate25 acres of Olseninni Family Estate
11234 Woebegone Rd, Loomis, CA 92100 (916) 555-6124 – www.fresholiveoil.com
•37% Picudo, 18% Bosana, & 45% Zaity
•Harvested December 10, 2008
•Processed December 11, 2008 at the Corti Mill in Sacramento (1569 Folsom Blvd.)
•Polyphenol Content: 1,234 ppm
•Free Fatty Acid: 0.12%
•Peroxide Level: 8.3 meqO2•Characteristic spicy flavor that is a balanced and complex blendof herbaceous grassy green and tropical ripe fruit flavors
Refined Olive OilRefined Olive OilProduced from the cheapest sources of oil from
anywhere in the world
The base of this oil is from rotten olives that have The base of this oil is from rotten olives that have fermented or gone rancid. This technical process fermented or gone rancid. This technical process
degums and neutralizes the oil with sodium degums and neutralizes the oil with sodium hydroxide forming soap, which is washed out. hydroxide forming soap, which is washed out.
Then we heat the oil to 500Then we heat the oil to 500ooF to volatilize off the F to volatilize off the bad odors, filter it to remove color, and then bad odors, filter it to remove color, and then
formulate it to meet the standards set forth by the formulate it to meet the standards set forth by the large industrial manufacturers. large industrial manufacturers. Contains:Contains: just just
enough oil from olives to meet that legal standardenough oil from olives to meet that legal standard.
This cheap source of refined old fat has the empty flavor of cooked or slightly rancid greasy oil
Pomace OilPomace OilProduced from olive waste – “second hot press”
This oil is made from the leftover solids (pomace), This oil is made from the leftover solids (pomace), that still contain some oil, after the fresh olive oil that still contain some oil, after the fresh olive oil
has been mechanically extracted. The dried has been mechanically extracted. The dried rotting waste pomace is then treated with hexane rotting waste pomace is then treated with hexane which dissolves anything soluble in the solvent, which dissolves anything soluble in the solvent,
including the oil. The solvents are then volatilized including the oil. The solvents are then volatilized off, some of which pollute the air. The oil is then off, some of which pollute the air. The oil is then refined by adding sodium hydroxide in a heating, refined by adding sodium hydroxide in a heating,
filtering process to produce a clear waxy oil. filtering process to produce a clear waxy oil.
This very cheap source of recovered waste oil has the cooked flavor of greasy solvents.
What is Good?What is Good?
What is Excellent?What is Excellent?
What is Better?What is Better?
FRESH FRESH –– ARTISAN ARTISAN –– SUPER SUPER PREMIUM PREMIUM –– GOURMET GOURMET ––BEYOND EXTRA VIRGINBEYOND EXTRA VIRGIN
USA MARKETUSA MARKETNew car New car –– new shoes new shoes –– good wine? good wine?
Which olive oil to buy?Which olive oil to buy?
Only practical way to distinguish is by flavor
Paul Vossen
GOOD OILS:GOOD OILS:
••Too bitter & pungentToo bitter & pungent
••Too strongToo strong
BAD OILS:BAD OILS:
••Defect not recognizedDefect not recognized
••Familiar olive oil flavorFamiliar olive oil flavor
OPPOSITE RESULTSOPPOSITE RESULTS
““The Perfect Olive OilThe Perfect Olive Oil””•• FruitinessFruitiness - very high (10)•• BitternessBitterness - medium low (3-4)•• PungencyPungency - medium (4-6)•• ComplexComplex (many different flavors - both
green and ripe (10)•• KeepsKeeps a long time•• Great colorGreat color•• Intense aromaIntense aroma (10)•• Fresh Fresh –– Crisp Crisp –– Clean Clean
Balanced (10)Balanced (10)
How Do We Make the How Do We Make the Best Olive Oil Possible?Best Olive Oil Possible?
How do we Improve Oils?How do we Improve Oils?
Influences on FlavorInfluences on Flavor• Irrigation• Climate• Stress• Fruit Maturity• Fruit Handling• Processing• Oil Handling • Variety
UCCE Research Taste PanelUCCE Research Taste Panel•• 15 point profile sheet15 point profile sheet•• Cooperation with Cooperation with
international panelsinternational panels•• Intensity of aroma, Intensity of aroma,
bitterness, pungency, bitterness, pungency, fruit intensity, sweetness, fruit intensity, sweetness, total flavor, astringency, total flavor, astringency, defects, complexity, balance, finish, overall quality, and defects, complexity, balance, finish, overall quality, and positive flavor descriptors positive flavor descriptors
Grass, herb, mint, artichoke, buttery, floral, apple, citrus, tropical, green tea, tomato, banana, berry, etc .
UC Davis Centennial Blend Tasted 1-8-09
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
Astringency Average
Sweetness Average
Pungency Average
Bitterness Average
Fruit Intensity Average
Total Flavor Intensity Average
Aroma Intensity Average
Complexity Average
Balance Average
Overall Quality Average
Intensity
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
Flav
or S
tren
gth
Ripe Olive
Fruit
Other R
ipe Frui
tNutt
yFlor
alButte
ry Tropic
alBana
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Green O
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Grass (
fresh
Cut)
Articho
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usGree
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Green B
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Eucalyp
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Spice "a
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Wood/ha
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Specific Flavor Characteristics
Olive Oil Flavor Characteristics UC Davis Centennial Blend Tasted 1-8-09
Ripe FruitGreen Fruit
New World Imports New World Imports Good Quality - Good Price
AustraliaAustralia
ArgentinaArgentina
ChileChile
It should be easy to sell fresh It should be easy to sell fresh olive oil with no defectsolive oil with no defects
• Most cheap foreign oils are defective• California oils are really good• Health concerns• More knowledgeable consumers
CaliforniaCalifornia’’s Competitive Advantages Competitive AdvantageFlavorFlavor•• Oils that taste better Oils that taste better •• Based on location, variety, & handlingBased on location, variety, & handling
Distinguished by FlavorDistinguished by FlavorBasicsBasics
•• FreshnessFreshness•• No DefectsNo Defects•• FruitinessFruitiness•• BitternessBitterness•• PungencyPungency•• Delicate Delicate –– Medium Medium ––
Robust STYLERobust STYLE
Specific CharacterSpecific Character•• BalanceBalance•• ComplexityComplexity•• Green Green –– RipeRipe•• Grassy, Herbal, Nettle, Grassy, Herbal, Nettle,
Artichoke, Green Tea, Artichoke, Green Tea, Mint, Nutty, Floral, Mint, Nutty, Floral, Buttery, Tropical, etc.Buttery, Tropical, etc.
Quality is more than oilQuality is more than oil•• StandardsStandards•• BottleBottle•• LabelLabel•• ReputationReputation•• BrandBrand•• LocationLocation•• StyleStyle•• UseUse•• OrganicOrganic•• PricePrice
Restaurant Individual ServingsRestaurant Individual Servings100 ml bottles $310/gallon100 ml bottles $310/gallon