OLIVE OIL

We asked Nancy Ash, one of the most respected tasting experts in the U.S. to write this page for The Olive Oil Source. We think it is the best description of tasting olive oil we have read. Here is what she recommends.

INTRODUCTIONIf a picture is worth 1,000 words, then how many words is a taste worth? In order to appreciate the range of flavors in olive oils, one must go beyond reading about oil and be willing to experience the act of tasting it. Flavors in olive oil are determined by a wide range of factors including the type of olive (varietal), ripeness at harvest, growing conditions (climate, soil type), crop maintenance (irrigation, pest control), handling of fruit from tree to mill, and the milling process itself. For example, oil made from predominantly unripe (green) olives contain flavors described as grassy, artichoke, or tomato leaf, whereas riper olives tend to yield softer flavors often described as buttery, floral, or tropical. The above descriptions are associated with good olive oil quality, but trained tasters also learn to identify negative characteristics. Flavor defects in olive oil are associated with problems with the olive fruit (olive fly, frozen conditions), improper handling of olives during harvest (dirt, wet fruit, prolonged storage prior to milling), certain milling conditions (unsanitary equipment, excessive heat), and improper or prolonged storage after milling (oxidation). An oil that is determined to have flavor defects is not of genuine extra virgin quality; according to the International Olive Council extra virgin oils must meet both chemical and organoleptic (flavor) standards that include the absence of flavor defects. The first step in learning how to taste olive oil is to understand how our senses work. Perception of flavor relies on both our senses of taste and smell. The ability to taste is quite limited; receptors on our tongue can only discern sweet, salt, sour, bitter, and umami (the flavor of protein). All other information that we think of as flavor is actually perceived by smelling food through the back of our nostrils (retro-nasally) while it is in our mouths. To illustrate this fact, think about how little flavor we perceive when we have a cold – this is because one cannot smell food retro-nasally when one’s nose is stuffed up.

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TASTINGWhen tasting olive oil, much of the oil’s characteristics are perceived through the sense of smell. Though most people enjoy olive oil with other foods, the following steps allow us to focus on the olive oil’s flavor without distraction:

Pour a small amount of oil (about 1 tablespoon) into a small tapered (wine) glass. Hold the glass in one hand and use your other hand to cover the glass while swirling the oil to release its aroma. Uncover the glass and inhale deeply from the top of the glass. Think about whether the aroma is mild or strong.

You may want to write down descriptions of the aromas that you detect at this point. Next you slurp the oil; this is done by sipping a small amount of oil into your mouth while “sipping” some air as

well. (When done correctly, you will make that impolite noise that would cause you to be scolded when you were a child!) Slurping emulsifies the oil with air that helps to spread it throughout your mouth - giving you the chance to savor every nuance of flavor with just a small sip of oil.

Finish by swallowing the oil and noticing if it leaves a stinging sensation in your throat.

Each of the above actions focuses our attention on a specific positive attribute in the oil. First we evaluate the olive fruit aroma (fruitiness) by inhaling from the glass. When the oil is in our mouths we further evaluate the aroma retro-nasally as well as determine amount of bitterness on our tongues. Lastly we determine the intensity of the oil’s pungency in our throats as we swallow it. Perhaps you noticed that the oil’s color is not addressed during sensory assessment. The reason is that contrary to the common belief that golden oil is mild and dark green oil is robust, color is NOT an indicator of either the oil’s flavor or quality. In fact, in scientific assessments, we sample from specially designed blue glasses that obscure the color of the oil. Tasting from a dark glass prevents us from having preconceptions about the flavor of the oil before we actually smell or taste it.………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

TRY THIS EXERCISEOnce you are comfortable with the above tasting method, try the following exercise. Select three oils labeled as extra virgin, including an inexpensive imported brand from the supermarket. In between samples, clean your palate by eating a small piece of tart, green apple (preferably Granny Smith) and then rinsing your mouth with water. Consider the following as you evaluate each sample:

Is the aroma pleasant or unpleasant? Is the aroma mild, strong, or somewhere in the middle (we’ll call that medium)? When assessing the second and

third oils, note if the aroma’s intensity is weaker or stronger than the previous sample. Note 3 words (or phrases) that describe the aroma. Is the oil bitter, which is primarily sensed towards the back of the tongue? Would you describe the bitterness as

mild, medium or strong? Is the intensity of the bitterness in balance with the intensity of the aroma? When you swallow the oil, how does it feel in your throat? Did the oil leave a mild impression, or did it sting your

throat or make you cough? Is the intensity of the oil’s pungency in balance with the oil’s aroma and bitterness?

When you have completed the above exercise, take a few moments to review your notes. What were the characteristics that you enjoyed the most? Were there any characteristics that you didn’t enjoy? How did the supermarket brand compare to the other oils? Even without an experienced taster sharing their thoughts about the oils with you, there is much you can learn by tasting olive oils on your own. Using this same tasting method, you can sample another set of oils on another day, and still be able to compare your responses to the first set; this is how we build our personal olive oil “vocabulary”. You will begin to recognize flavors and may even discover which varietals produce the flavors you prefer. You will learn to compare the level of intensity for fruity aroma, bitterness and pungency, and will begin to identify oils as mild, medium and robust (intense). It’s a good idea to organize your tasting notes in a binder so you can review your past tasting experiences with new ones. Worldwide over 1,000 varieties of olives are grown, which should give consumers a wide range of flavor possibilities. Taste is personal, so not everyone will agree on which varietals, and other factors, produce the best oil. However, tasting oils in a methodical fashion will help to educate your palate, and you will be able to select oils with flavor characteristics that you enjoy and enhance your meals. (tasting) assessment of olive oil in order to determine an oil’s quality and commercial trade value. This assessment method is based on panels of trained tasters recognizing the absence and/or presence of specific positive and negative (defective) attributes. (Click here for IOC definitions.) While the IOC assessment offers an objective method to determine if an oil has defective flavors or not, this method does not allow for descriptions of flavors because descriptive language is subjective. We offer the following terms, with positives in green and negatives in red, to help guide you through your own tasting experiences.

Red refers to undesirable, green to desirable traits.

Apple/Green Apple: indicative of certain olive varietals

Almond: nutty (fresh not oxidized)

Artichoke: green flavor

Astringent: puckering sensation in mouth created by tannins; often associated with bitter, robust oils

Banana: ripe and unripe banana fruit

Acetone: aroma of nail polish remover, associated with winey defect

Blue Cheese: aroma associated with muddy sediment defect

Brine: salty taste indicating that oil was made from brined olives

Bacon: smoky essence that may indicate oxidation

Burnt/Heated: caused by

Bitter: considered a positive attribute because it is indicative of fresh olive fruit

Buttery: creamy, smooth sensation on palate

Eucalyptus: aroma of specific olive varietals

Floral: perfume/aroma of flowers

Forest: fresh aroma reminiscent of forest floor, NOT dirty

Fresh: good aroma, fruity, not oxidixed

Fruity: refers to the aroma of fresh olive fruit, which is perceived through the nostrils and retro-nasally when the oil is in one’s mouth.

Grass: the aroma of fresh-cut (mowed) grass

Green/Greenly: aroma/flavor of unripe olives

Green Tea: characteristic of some unripe olive varieties

Harmonious: balance among the oil’s characteristics with none overpowering the others

Hay/Straw: dried grass flavor

Herbaceous: unripe olive fruit reminiscent of fresh green herbs

Melon: indicative of certain olive varietals

Mint: indicative of certain olive varietals

Pear: indicative of certain olive

processing at too high a temperature

Cucumber: off flavor from prolonged storage, particularly in tin

Dirty: oils which have absorbed unpleasant odors and flavors of dirty waste water during milling

Dreggish: odor of warm lubricating oil caused by the poor execution of the decanting process

Esparto: refers to straw-like material in mats occasionally used in older mills that may create a hemp-like flavor in oil

Fiscolo: refers to coconut fibers in mats occasionally used in older mills that may create a hemp-like flavor in oil

Flat/Bland: oils which have no positive or negative aroma or flavor characteristic of olive oil; may indicate presence of refined olive oil

Frozen/Wet Wood: sweet, dry, and untypical aroma/flavor derived from olives which have been exposed to freezing temperatures

Fusty: anaerobic fermentation that occurs when olives are stored in piles too long before milling

Greasy: flavor of diesel or gasoline caused by equipment problems

Grubby: flavor imparted to oil

varietals

Peach: indicative of certain olive varietals

Peppery: stinging sensation in the throat which can force a cough (see pungent)

Pungent: stinging sensation in the throat which can force a cough (see peppery)

Ripely: aroma/flavor of ripe olive fruit

Round/Rotund: a balanced, mouth-filling sensation of harmonious flavors

Spice: aroma/flavor of seasonings such as cinnamon, allspice (but not herbs or pepper)

Sweet: characteristic of mild oils

Tomato/Tomato Leaf: indicative of certain olive varietals

Tropical: indicative of ripe olive fruit with nuances of melon, mango, and coconut

Walnut/Walnut Shell: nutty (fresh not oxidized)

Wheatgrass: strong flavor of some green olive fruit

Woody: indicative of olive varietals with large pits

by olive fly damage to olives

Hay-wood: flavor of dried olives

Muddy Sediment:barnyard-like aroma caused by olives' prolonged contact with dirt before or after milling

Musty: moldy, humid flavor created by wet olives that have been stored too long before pressing

Metallic: oils that have had prolonged contact with reactive metal surfaces either during processing or storage

Rancid: the flavor of oxidation that occurs as the oil ages, often described as “stale nuts”

Rough: pasty, thick, greasy mouth feel

Sour Milk: aroma associated with muddy sediment defect

Stale Nuts: flavor of oxidized oils, rancidity

Unbalanced: oils with overwhelming flavors of bitterness and pungency

Vegetable Water: oils that have been stored in contact with the water content of the olive after processing

Winey: sour/vinegary flavor caused by aerobic fermentation of olives during processing (see vinegary)

Vinegary: sour/vinegary flavor caused by aerobic fermentation

of olives during processing. (see winey)

Yeasty: aroma of bread dough; associated with winey defect

Olive Oil Tasting Sheets

IOC Organoleptic Profile (Assessment) SheetMario Solinas Quality Award Sensory Assessment SheetUniversity of California Cooperative Extension Tasting SheetUniversity of California at Davis Olive Oil Taste PanelUniversity of California Cooperative Extension Panel Results Example

These are different tasting sheets that are used to evaluate olive oils.

IOC ORGANOLEPTIC PROFILE (ASSESSMENT) SHEETThis is the official scoring sheet used by IOC recognized panels. In objective assessments, tasters serve as the scientific instrument that measures specific attributes (properties) in oil samples. When a taster perceives an attribute, he/she marks the line according to the attribute’s intensity beginning with zero at the left and continuing across the line to the right for higher intensities. Upon completion of the tasting, the marks are measured in centimeters to create the taster’s score, which is then compared with other tasters to create an aggregate panel score. PDF of International Olive Oil Council (IOOC) Profile Sheet

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MARIO SOLINAS QUALITY AWARD SENSORY ASSESMENT SHEETThe Mario Solinas Competition is sponsored each year by the IOC. This scoring sheet is used for the subjective

assessment of oil samples as tasters score qualities such as the harmony/balance and complexity of flavors, which are not scientific concepts. In this assessment method, a perfect score is 100 with up to 35 points awarded for the oil’s aroma, 45 points for the oil’s flavor (including retro-nasal aroma), and the final 20 points split between complexity and persistence (how long the flavor lingers in one’s mouth). Although there is only one Mario Solinas Competition each year, this assessment sheet is used by several other competitions throughout the world. PDF of Mario Solinas Quality Award of the International Olive Council International Competition for Extra Virgin Olive Oils Sensory Assessment Sheet

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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION TASTING SHEETPaul Vossen, the panel leader for the University of California Cooperative Extension Olive Oil Research Taste Panel, has developed an assessment method that combines the objective scoring of attributes with the subjective designation of descriptions of the oil. This is the tasting sheet the panel uses. An example of the results is shown below. PDF of University of California Cooperative Extension 15 Point Olive Oil Profile Sheet

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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT DAVIS OLIVE OIL TASTE PANELPDF of University of California at Davis Olive Oil Taste Panel

COOKING WITH OLIVE OIL

Olive oil has been used for thousands of years in cooking and is one of the cornerstones of the healthy Mediterranean diet. It is very versatile and, with its unique flavor and aroma, has become a must-have in the American kitchen. Different olive oils complement different foods and uses. Olive oil can be used for sautéing, browning, stir-frying, deep frying, as an ingredient in marinades and sauces such as mayonnaise, pesto, or romesco, and as a condiment, drizzled over various dishes. It is of course always appreciated as a bread dipper or simply dabbed on a toasted piece of country bread that has been scratched with a clove of garlic. Think about olive oil as you would of wine. Use different olive oils for different purposes. Strong and robust extra virgin olive oils can be used for cooking fish, meat, to make marinades, or to drizzle on strongly flavored ingredients like peppers or garlic. A medium intensity, well-rounded extra virgin olive oil is great on mozzarella or for bread dipping. We love it in vinaigrette or sprinkled on various steamed vegetables and on baked potatoes. A mellow late harvest oil could be used in baking a cake or to make mayonnaise. Olive oil orvirgin olive oil are good for frying and sautéing. Excessively heating olive oil will evaporate the alcohols and esters that make up its delicate taste and fragrance. Use a less expensive olive oil that doesn't have much flavor to begin with if you want to fry with it, add a more flavorful olive oil after cooking or at the table. In the end, what matters most is your personal taste! Keep in mind, however, that a tablespoon of olive oil has roughly 120 calories. See our recipes for various dishes prepared with olive oil. We get a lot of questions about how long olive oil lasts and what the best way to preserve it is, as well as what happens to olive oil when it is heated. For detailed information about these two subjects, see our two pages Keeping Olive Oil Fresh and Heating Olive Oil.

KEEPING OLIVE OIL FRESH

When olive oil is exposed to oxygen, light, and heat, it is subject to oxidation and may become rancid. Proper storage can prevent this. Depending on the quality of the oil and on how it was made, extra virgin olive oil in a sealed bottle may last from 3 months to 2 years.Click here for a more detailed discussion of storage conditions and rancidity. As soon as you open the bottle, the oxidation process accelerates and the oil will degrade fairly rapidly. Make sure you keep your oil in a closed bottle, in a dark container or closet, away from sources of heat like your stove. You do not have to refrigerate it, although refrigeration will not hurt the oil. Buying your oil in bulk is a great way to save money. If you do so, the best way to preserve it is to keep it in a stainless steal container, called fusti. Fusti are an excellent way to preserve olive oil. For even better preservation, you can top your fusti off with inert gasfrom a small spray can. If you are using a regular bulk container, try not to open it too often. Fill a couple of bottles for day-to-day use and leave the bulk container carefully closed the rest of the time.

HEATING OLIVE OIL

HEATING OLIVE OIL AND SMOKE POINTOne of the questions we are asked most often is what happens when olive oil is heated and/or used for frying. The important thing about cooking with any oil (olive or otherwise) is not to heat the oil over its smoke point (also referred to as smoking point). The smoke point refers to the temperature at which a cooking fat or oil begins to break down. The substance smokes or burns, and gives food an unpleasant taste. But what is the smoke point of olive oil? Depending on where you look for an answer, you may get vastly different ideas.

Relationship between Smoke Point and Quality of Olive OilThe smoke point of oil varies with its quality. High quality extra virgin olive oils (with low free fatty acids) have a high smoke point. They are an excellent choice, but an expensive one. Mass produced, low quality olive oils have a much lower smoke point. At the Olive Oil Source, we believe that extra virgin olive oil smokes roughly between 400 and 365ºF (204 and 185ºC) depending on its free fatty acid content. Here is what the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC) has to say about frying food with olive oil: When heated, olive oil is the most stable fat, which means it stands up well to high frying temperatures. Its high smoke point (410ºF or 210ºC) is well above the ideal

temperature for frying food (356ºF or 180ºC). The digestibility of olive oil is not affected when it is heated, even when it is re-used several times for frying As a reference point, the table from the IOOC shows standard cooking temperatures:

Type of Food Cooking TemperatureHigh water content: vegetables, potatoes, fruit …

Medium (266-293ºF or 130-145ºC)

Coated in batter, flour or breadcrumbs, forming a crust

Hot (311-338ºF or 155-170ºC)

Small, quickly fried: small fish, croquettes

Very Hot (347-374ºF or 175–190ºC)

How does Olive Oil Compare with Other Cooking Oils?The table below shows the smoke point of a few other cooking oils. Keep in mind that the smoke point for a vegetable oil will vary according to the variety and growing conditions, and how the oil was produced. Various manufacturers and sources cite different numbers.

Type of Oil Smoke Point Temperature

Grape Seed 485ºF or 252ºCAvocado 480ºF or 249ºCSesame 410ºF or 210ºCCanola 400ºF or 204ºCMacademia 385ºF or 196ºC

Having read all of the above, you may be fairly confused by now. Dr. John Deane wrote the following excellent article about the smoke point of olive oil and various cooking considerations. This is the most comprehensive discussion of smoke point that we know of.

Smoke Point of Olive Oil by John Deane (updated 09/20/2007)Pumpkin seed oil, avocado oil, borage and camellia oil; it used to be that a choice of oil for cooking was simple. You used a liquid canola or corn oil for frying or sautéing and a hardened oil such as Crisco for baking. We now live in the age of boutique oils. All seeds have oil in them as the energy source for the growing seedling. Man's ingenuity and desire to create a niche market has led to the extraction of many unusual oils. The marketing angles on these oils are manifold. Some claim to have health benefits, others to have flavor. Buyers of argan and shea butter oils may be supporting women's cooperatives in developing nations. Hemp seed oil diehards are sticking it to the man. Grapeseed oil has the romance of the vine. JoJoba oil is a earth friendly alternative oil. While it is hard to compare or argue some of these points, there is one point which should be easy for comparison: the smoke point. A high smoke point is desirable for a cooking oil. When frying, best results occur when the oil is very hot. The food is placed into the hot oil and the natural sugars caramelize and proteins denature into a thin shell which protects the food from soaking up the oil. The outside is crisp and the interior is just cooked. One of the bibles of cooking, Irma Rombauer's The Joy of Cooking recommends frying at 365ºF for best results. When heated oil smokes, it is not just a nuisance. Besides coating your home interior with a varnish like substance, where there's smoke there's fire. An oil at its smoke point is closer to its flash point - the point where it will burst into flame. So a high smoke point is one yardstick for a “good oil” If you go to the internet or the market to look for smoke points you will see something interesting. Every oil claims to have the highest smoke point. One website for macadamia nut oil puts their oil at the top of the list with a smoke point of 410ºF. On their chart, olive oil comes in at a measly 190ºF. This is below the temperature of a hot cup of tea! Avocado oil sites say their oil has the highest smoke point and claim nut oils are terrible for frying. The smoke point for a vegetable oil will vary according to the variety and growing conditions, and how the oil was produced. The smoke you see may be impurities in the oil which are burning. Unfiltered olive oil has small bits of olive in it. When the oil is heated these bits will burn and smoke before the oil

itself. A well-filtered or clarified oil will have a higher smoke point generally. Oil which has oxidized because of exposure to air, heat and light will have a lower smoke point. Using oil repeatedly will also make it smoke sooner. When looking for the smoke point of an oil you should expect a range of values. The Olive Oil Source claims that extra virgin olive oil smokes from 400 to 365ºF, according to its free fatty acid content. But the macadamia nut folk say that olive oil smokes at the temperature of hot water out of the tap. When I suggested to the macadamia people that it seemed unlikely that olive oil smokes at temperature lower than boiling water and that maybe they were confusing centigrade with Fahrenheit they insisted they were right. So who do you trust for the real smoke point? The industry group which is advertising and promoting the oil, a random website or a food chemistry text? Here is what some research yielded:

The International Olive Oil Council: 410ºFInstitute of Shortening and Edible Oils: 420ºF

Or why not get some olive oil off the shelf and heat it up in a saucepan with a frying thermometer. This is properly done in a lab with special lighting which shows the first hint of smoke. My stovetop experiment yielded 350ºF for a jug of discount store oil which had been sitting open in the garage for a few years and 380ºF for a premium fresh extra virgin oil. Olive oil is fine for frying. It is annoying to counter these conflicting claims when most people would not fry with olive oil anyway. A cheap, flavorless oil with a high smoke point is usually recommended - something like canola, soy or peanut oil. Avocado, macadamia and premium olive oils can cost up to a dollar per ounce. It is unlikely that you are going to deep fry that Thanksgiving turkey in 5 gallons of oil at that price. Besides, if we are so worried about our health, why fry at all? Better to talk up the flavor qualities of olive oil, an area where it shines compared to bland seed oils. An excellent resource with voluminous bibliography is a monograph entitled "Frying Food in Olive oil" by Gregorio Varela, Professor of Nutrition, Madrid University. It is available from theInternational Olive Council (IOC).

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MYTHS ABOUT COOKING WITH OLIVE OILThere are some myths that have recently circulated about olive oil that we are constantly answering via email and our newsletter. Following are the two most common.

Myth: Heating Olive Oil Will Make it Saturated or Trans-fatty.One common myth is that heating olive oil will make it saturated or trans-fatty.This is not true. As far as making a saturated fat, according to Dr. A. Kiritsakis, a world renowned oil chemist in Athens, in his book Olive Oil from the Tree to the Table -Second edition 1998, all oils will oxidize and hydrogenate to a tiny degree if repeatedly heated to very high temperatures such as is done in commercial frying operations. Olive-pomace oils and virgin olive oils are both highly monounsaturated oils and therefore resistant to oxidation and hydrogenation. Studies have shown oxidation and hydrogenation occurs to a lesser degree in olive oil than in other oils. But in any case, the amount of hydrogenation is miniscule and no home cook would ever experience this problem. The large refinery-like factories that take unsaturated vegetable oil and turn it into margarine or vegetable lard do so by bubbling hydrogen gas through 250 to 400ºF (121 to 204ºC) hot vegetable oil in the presence of a metal catalyst, usually nickel or platinum. The process can take several hours. You cannot make a saturated product like margarine at home by heating olive oil or any other vegetable oil in a pan. We don't know where this weird notion has come from. For more details, see Olive Chemistry. Changing a cis-fat to a trans-fat does not occur on a home stove.

Myth: Cooking in Olive oil Diminishes The Nutritional Value of the Food.Another myth is that cooking in olive oil diminishes the nutritional value of the food. This a misconception. The fact is that heating food will break down its nutritional value. High heat such as frying is worse than moderate heat such as steaming, which is worse than eating vegetables raw. It is not the cooking oil per se, but the high heat of frying. We are not aware of any edible cooking oil which by itself diminishes the nutritional value of the food

cooked in it. Most nutritionists recommend lightly steaming vegetables or eating them. A touch of a flavorsome extra virgin olive oil added at the table will add taste and healthful anti-oxidants. Such is the Mediterranean diet which has been shown to help prevent coronary disease and have other health benefits.

CONVERSION CHART

Butter/Margarine Olive Oil1 teaspoon 3/4 teaspoon1 tablespoon 2 1/4 teaspoons2 tablespoons 1 1/2 tablespoons1/4 cup 3 tablespoons1/3 cup 1/4 cup1/2 cup 1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons2/3 cup 1/2 cup3/4 cup 1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon1 cup 3/4 cup

Olive oil can be readily substituted in most main course dishes where margarine or butter is used for frying or sautéing. In olive oil producing countries, olive oil and butter/margarine are sometimes also used together to enhance each other's flavor in some recipes. The conversion chart above is appropriate for most cake and pastry recipes where quantities are critical. Keep in mind, however, that it is not always a good idea to use liquid shortening (olive oil/vegetable oil) instead of solid shortening (butter/margarine). For instance, since cake frosting must stay solid at room temperature, butter and powdered sugar work nicely, but olive oil and powdered sugar don’t. You should also consider the taste factor. A mild tasting late harvest olive oil could be used in most cake and pastry recipes because cooking will get rid of the aromatic olive oil flavors. Uncooked confections such as cake frosting would taste more than a bit unusual if made with olive oil.

INFUSING OLIVE OIL

It is possible to make excellent infused oil at home using dried wild herbs. The intensity of the flavor varies with the season, whether the herbs are wild or domestic, how the local growing conditions have been, etc. It takes a lot of trial and error. It is more art than science and the people who are good at it are reluctant to share their trade secrets. The oil will pick up the flavor fairly quickly, in the first few weeks, and then slowly intensify. It is fine to leave the herbs in for a long time; eventually all the flavor leaves the herbs and the oil flavor stabilizes. Most oil sellers keep it simple and use one herb at a time. We have seen smoke flavoring added to an herb or peppers added to any one of the herbs. When mixing herbs, think salad dressing. Look at some recipes for dressing and substitute the dried herbs for any fresh herbs called for in the recipe. A dipping blend is like an Italian dressing with much more oil than vinegar. Flavored olive oils and dressings make great gifts but watch out; there are safe and unsafe ways to make infused olive oil. The unsafe way is to put anything in the oil that contains any trace of water or moisture. That would include garlic, lemon peel, fresh peppers, fresh herbs and spices. The oil will not support bacterial growth but the water containing herbs will. Botulism bacteria can grow in this type of environment, even in a sealed bottle. There are several things you can do to avoid this problem.

1. Mix all the ingredients, refrigerate them and use them within a week:This is the best way if you are using fresh ingredients such as fresh basil, fresh rosemary or garlic. Garlic is ideal for adding to pasta dishes, that you can then top with a little grated dry cheese. Fill a decorative 1-litre bottle with extra virgin olive oil. Add a clean head of garlic (whole if desired), and leave to marinade for a few days. You can also use lemon peel, fresh or dried peppers, ginger, rosemary sprigs, etc. Alternatively, you can use a recipe for Italian salad dressing but cut down on the vinegar or lemon juice.

2. Preserve the added ingredients:Maybe you have seen garlic or herbs mixed with oil. The way it is done commercially is to first preserve the water-containing garlic, herb, etc. with a strong brine or vinegar solution, then put it in the oil. The vinegar solutions used commercially are up to 4 times stronger than the vinegars you find in the supermarket. You can find them at commercial food supply outlets. Many of the herb mixes have both salt and vinegar which both prevent bacterial growth. Commercial vinaigrettes and sauces also have chemical preservatives not usually available to the home cook.

3. Dry the herbs to remove all water, leaving the essential oils:This can be done with a food dehydrator or just by leaving in the sun. After the spices and herbs are dry, you can add them to the olive oil. Whole sprigs of thyme, rosemary, dried peppers, etc. can decorate the inside of the bottle this way.

4.Press the olives with the spices:Putting lemon, garlic, etc. in the olive press with the olives is the safest way to flavor oil. You must have your own olive press (see our First Press). The oils from the added ingredients mingle with the olive oil and the watery part of the spices is removed along with the olive water.

You could add essential spice oils to the olive oil to achieve the same effect.

LABELING REGULATIONS

Product labels usually convey five things: content, quantity, company brand, contact information, and nutritional information. For olive oil producers in the United States who intend to provide their product for retail sale to consumers, there are general regulations about labeling laws and, in a few states, specific regulations regarding olive oil labeling. Almost all food labeling regulations are enforced by the FDA. While there are specific requirements about things like type size, prominence, and conspicuousness of the information, there are a few basics to be aware of. We would strongly encourage you to visit the FDA sites listed below for detailed information. In sum, make sure your product labeling includes the following:

The PRIMARY DISPLAY PANEL (PDP) must include the name of the product (e.g. Extra Virgin Olive Oil) and net quantity (in both Metric and U.S. Customary). This area is also the obvious place to put your company brand information, although not legally required if the packaging has two label areas.

The INFORMATION PANEL (secondary display) typically includes the name and address of the manufacturer, packer or distributor, the ingredient list, nutrition labeling, and UPC scanning codes. If there is only one label area (PDP), company contact information must be included in that label.

The following sections provide a brief summary of this required information:

PRIMARY DISPLAY PANEL LABELINGThat is the dominant label that consumers will see when purchasing the product.

Statement of Identity (name of food): Identify the oil on the basis of its certified quality (for example, EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL) and, if it has been organically produced in accordance with U.S. regulations, as ORGANIC.

Net Quantity Statement (amount of food): Food labels must show the net contents in both metric (grams, kilograms, milliliters, liters) and U.S. Customary System (ounces, pounds, fluid ounces) terms. The metric statement may be placed either before or after the U. S. Customary statement, or above or below it. Consult our Useful Number Conversions page for conversion numbers.

Most producers will also use another label area, the INFORMATIONAL PANEL LABELING, to comply with other requirements. If you only plan to use one label, then the PDP must satisfy these requirements as well (see below).

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INFORMATIONAL PANEL LABELING

Name and address of the manufacturer, packer or distributor: This is a core requirement for all food labeling. Unless the name given is the actual manufacturer, it must be accompanied by a qualifying phrase that states the firm's relation to the product (e.g., "manufactured for "or "distributed by").

Ingredient list: If appropriate to the product content, identify any added ingredients beyond olive oil (flavoring, herbs, etc.) in this area.

Nutrition labeling: This is a requirement unless your business does less than $500,000 in gross product sales, or has an average of fewer than 100 full-time employees and you sold fewer than 100,000 units in the U.S. in the prior twelve months. You must apply for this exemption to the FDA.

UPC scan code: This is not a requirement of the FDA, but may be for store retailers. ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

DETAILED LABELING DIRECTIONS REFERENCES For detailed directions on creating a product label, we strongly encourage you to consult two sites that have exhaustive details about product food labeling:

FDA Food Labeling Guide : the FDA has an easy to follow “question and answer” type format. NAOOA Brief Labeling Guide for Olive Oil The North America Olive Oil Association has put together a brief

labeling guide for olive oil that can answer most questions specific to olive oil product labeling. ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

HEALTH CLAIMSIn addition to general product information, any statements that make specific health claims are investigated by the FDA. If you make health claims in advertising materials or on your website, then the FTC has jurisdiction. If you wish to claim specific health benefits from your product, there are three broad categories that health claims can go into:

Health claims such as "reduces cancer" or "decreases chance of heart disease" are claims that must be extensively documented with clinical trials. These types of claims are by far the most difficult to gain approval of.

Structure or function claims such as "supports heart health" which are made on the label are easier to justify as there are thousands of substances that can satisfy this limited statement.

Generally recognized as safe and effective (GRAS) is a new FDA safe area. A substance that will be added to a food needs pre-market approval by the FDA unless its use is GRAS. There is a long list of substances that have extensive research which you can borrow to assume the ingredient is GRAS.

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STATE-SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTSUntil recently, olive oil importers had effectively blocked passage of more meaningful labeling. With the passage of California State Senate Bill SB634 in 2008, olive oil labeling requirements are now much stronger for products sold in California. The same has happened in Connecticut, New York, and Oregon. As of December 2009, legislators in Massachusetts, New Jersey, and Maryland are actively working on similar laws. These laws can guide any state-specific laws you may want to be aware of.

USDA’S NEW GRADE STANDARDS

By Caroline J. Beck02/01/2011

While other industry resources like the UC Davis Taste Panel, the California Olive Oil Council (COOC) and the American Oil Chemists’ Society (AOCS) have embraced and supported the roll-out of new standards for olive oil grades established in 2010, participation in the USDA’s own certification program has been slow to materialize. In fact, no producer to date has yet received USDA certification. Whether this has been due to lack of knowledge about program implementation or lack of clarity about costs or marketing value remains to be seen. After some months of seeking more information about the program, with the help of Jimmie Turner, spokesperson for the USDA, we were able to clarify some of the steps on the path towards USDA certification. The full text of his interview is published below. First announced in April 2010, new USDA standards became effective on October 24, 2010. According to the USDA, the revised standards are intended to provide a common language for the trade and provide consumers more assurance of the quality of olive oil that they purchase. These standards were long in development, designed to make the U.S. competitive with worldwide standards, and have been widely embraced by the industry. As part of the new program, the USDA announced that they would offer a voluntary certification to producers interested in securing USDA-authorized inspection and grading. To that end, the USDA’s Science Specialty Laboratories in Blakely, Georgia completed training and staffing for chemical and organoleptic (taste) evaluation. Recently, the lab confirmed that they are ready to fully support testing of the new standards. The challenge has been that producers were stymied when investigating how to participate in the program and what costs they can expect to incur. It became a labyrinth of exploration starting with the USDA’s Processed Products Branch and answers were not easy to come by. Further, there is concern that the USDA certification program might create a double-edged sword if consumers come to believe that quality oil can only be guaranteed by a USDA shield of certification - an issue that will be especially challenging for smaller producers with less capital resources to put toward becoming USDA-certified. According to Turner, the following information should provide better direction on how to achieve USDA certification. This electronic interview with Mr. Jimmie Turner of the USDA was conducted January 7, 2011. If growers are interested in obtaining USDA certification, who do they contact? The Processed Products Branch (PPB) of USDA’s Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS). PPB, a unit of AMS’s Fruit and Vegetable Programs, has 14 nationwide field offices and 15 additional inspection points. Growers can contact the nearest PPB field office listed on our PPB Offices web page. What applications need to be filled out? An application for inspection service may be made to the PPB Inspection Office or to any PPB inspector, at or nearest the place where the service is desired. An up-to-date list of the PPB Inspection Offices of the Department may be obtained on our PPB Offices web page. Satisfactory proof that the applicant is an interested party with a financial interest in the product shall be furnished. Information required in connection with application: Application for inspection service shall be made in the English language and may be made orally (in person or by telephone), in writing, or by fax. If an application for inspection service is made orally, written confirmation may be required by the inspection service involved. In connection with each application for inspection service, there shall be furnished such information as may be necessary to perform an inspection on the processed product(s), including but not limited to, the name of the product, name and address of the packer or plant where such product was packed, the location of the product, its lot or car number, codes or other identification marks, the number of containers, the type and size of the containers, the interest of the applicant in the product, whether the lot has been inspected previous to the application by any Federal agency, and the purpose for which inspection is desired. Is there a published fee structure? We understand it is based on number of samples and extent of analysis, but as a grower, what information could I receive that would give me an idea on how much it will cost? Fees for PPB inspection and certification are provided in PPB regulations, located in the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) at: 7 CFR 52, and can also be found on our PPB Fees web page. PPB fees are based on a lot inspection rate of $62 per hour; this fee includes: travel time, sampling, grading and certification. The fees are based on the size of the lot and the time required to provide services. Additional information regarding fees can be obtained from any PPB Inspection Office. In addition, there is a separate fee for the laboratory analyses required for grading olive oil. Laboratory fees are based on a current rate of $81 per hour, which can be found in 7 CFR 91. The laboratory fees include all required analyses, both chemical and sensory, as well as sample storage, recordkeeping and reporting. For more information, growers may go to the website of the AMS Science and Technology Laboratory in Blakely, Ga., or contact Michael Miller at (229) 723-4570 or James Falk at (202) 720-8369. Fees and charges for any inspection service shall be paid by the interested party making the application for such service. An advance of

funds prior to rendering inspection service or a surety bond shall be required as a guarantee of payment for the services rendered. All fees and charges for any inspection service shall be paid by check, draft, credit card or money order payable to the United States Department of Agriculture. Payment shall be sent to the address specified on the bill for collection on or before the due date to avoid a late payment charge. What is the actual process for certification? Is it to first contact someone at the USDA Processed Products Group, then be directed to Blakely lab? Or is it all handled through the PPB once the process gets started? Please contact the nearest PPB Inspection Office of the product to be inspected and complete the FV-356 Form: Application for Inspection and Certification of Sampling. The office can also give you an estimate of the fees for the inspection and certification. How much time does the process take? Once the sampling is scheduled and the product is available for sampling, the process may take up to 15 business days to complete. Do you know who I should contact at the FDA regarding enforcement of the revised standards or have any suggestions of where I should start? USDA is responsible for enforcing grade statements that include the official “U.S.” prefix, marks or seals. All other labeling requirements are the enforcement responsibility of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). At FDA you may contact Felicia Billingslea from the Center for Food Science and Applied Nutrition’s Labeling and Food Standards office at (301) 436-2373. Pressing Times, February 2011

WHAT IS IN OLIVE OIL?

What are the components that make adding olive oil to your daily diet such a smart idea? So far, medical research has focused on three core areas of nutritional value.

Olive oil is mainly comprised of monounsaturated fatty acids. A healthier type of fat, it reduces total and low-density lipoprotein (LDL or “bad”) cholesterol levels in the bloodstream, while raising high-density lipoprotein (HDL or “good”) cholesterol levels.

High quality extra virgin olive oil, in particular, provides a high content of antioxidants, like polyphenols, vitamins E & K, chlorophyll and carotenoids. Antioxidants are key to strengthening the immune system and protecting the body from the damaging effects of free-radical molecules.

Olive oil contains anti-inflammatory agents, like oleocanthal, that act as a natural ibuprofen-like substance.

Before we go through each of these areas in detail, it is important to point out that not all olive oils are created equal! Extra virgin olive oil is considered the best grade to deliver healthy benefits because it is the least-processed of all olive oils. It could be described as natural olive juice. Without any processed manipulation like excessive heat or chemicals that would change its chemical makeup, extra virgin olive oil maintains the highest levels of healthy components. See our How to Pick an Olive Oil page for more details. There are wide differences even among extra virgin olive oils, in terms of their healthy benefits, depending on how they are made, what type of and how ripe the olives were when they were harvested, how the oil was stored, and many other factors.

CHEMICAL INFORMATIONFor a full description of the chemical characteristics of olive oil, please refer to our Olive Chemistry section.

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NUTRITIONAL INFORMATIONThe nutritional benefits of olives and olive oil are directly related to the types of fatty acid and the significant amounts of anti-oxidants derived from Vitamins E and K. The following information provides detailed information for both.

Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz) of Olive OilEnergy 3,701 kJ (885 kcal) Carbohydrates 0 g Fat 100 g

saturated 14 g monounsaturated 73 g polyunsaturated 11 g omega-3 fat <1.5 g omega-6 fat 3.5-21 g Protein 0 g Vitamin E 14 mg (93%) Vitamin K 62 μg (59%)

100 g olive oil is 103 ml Percentages are relative to US recommendations for adults.

Nutritional value of OlivesCalories per olive: It depends on how big the olives are and what their oil content is. The large black canned olives are actually quite low in oil - sometimes only 7%, which is why they are table olives and are generally not used to make oil. Some smaller olives used primarily for oil making can have more than 20 to 25% in oil content. Olives can range from 1 to 14 grams in weight. There is about 1 tablespoon of olive oil (and about 120 calories) in: 20 medium Mission olives that have an oil content of 20%, or 40 small ripe black olives, or 20 jumbo ripe black olives, or 7 super colossal ripe black olives.

BEAUTY & OLIVE OIL

Sales of skin and hair care products in the U.S. are a multi-billion dollar business and growing. Many of the latest “miracle in a jar” options are marketed as high-end, but costly, solutions to everyday challenges: how to keep skin moisturized, hair healthy, and facial skin free of wrinkles. Some of the most popular products, promoted as “natural” solutions, even incorporate olive oil as a key ingredient in their formulas. But what many consumers don’t realize is something that people living millennia ago in ancient Greece took for granted; that extra virgin olive oil, all by itself, is one of the best beauty secrets. In addition to being a natural, hypoallergenic way to moisturize skin, extra virgin olive oil has the added advantage of providing strong antioxidants, like Vitamins A and E that help repair and renew skin that has been damaged from overexposure to sun, air pollution, and other modern-day environmental hazards – like cigarette smoke and fast food. These antioxidants have the natural ability to stimulate cells and return skin to a firmer, smoother, and healthier state. To provide a slightly more scientific explanation, this damage is related to the destructive activity of oxygen-related free radicals produced by skin cells. Polyphenolic components of olive oil have been compared to traditional antioxidants, such as tocopherols, used by the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry to prevent skin damage. There are a number of simple and inexpensive ways to get the best skin care and beauty benefits out of a single bottle of extra virgin olive oil. The rich emollients in olive oil allow just a little to go a long way.

SKIN CARE AND OLIVE OIL

Skin MoisturizerWhether applied to face or body, olive oil will penetrate deep into the skin and provide a long-lasting shield of moisture to keep skin smooth and supple. Used either as a night cream or daily moisturizer, it is best applied to damp skin, when water can help reduce any feeling of greasiness. We recommend using extra virgin olive oil. Our readers have also suggested that a little lemon juice mixed with olive oil can provide a more bracing and refreshing feeling. In her best-selling book The Passionate Olive, Carol Firenze suggests making a moisturizer made of Italian parsley, water, and extra virgin olive oil. Expect the natural benefits of olive oil to take a bit longer to be absorbed into the skin than most lightweight packaged skin products. But the advantages can be longer lasting too.

ExfoliatorIf dry and scaly skin is a problem, Carol Firenze also suggests mixing olive oil and sea salt in a rub and massaging it into the affected area to slough off dead skin and enrich the healthy layer beneath it. Or add a few tablespoons of olive oil with a drop or two of lavender essential oil in a bath. This is a luxurious way to relax, soothe and moisturize the whole body.

Nail and Cuticle CareExtra virgin olive oil makes the perfect, simple solution for dry nails and cuticles. Simply rub a few drops into the cuticle area and around the nail. Cuticles stay plump and moist, and nails respond with a natural shine.

Eye Makeup RemoverJust a drop or two of extra virgin olive oil on a cotton pad is all it takes to gently and effectively remove eye

makeup without irritating the delicate skin around the eye area. The biggest added advantage is that when used consistently, olive oil can soften the skin around the eyes and smooth out wrinkles.

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HAIR CARE AND OLIVE OILWhen used on hair and scalp, olive oil can be considered two products: a deep conditioner and a dandruff controller. After shampooing, massage a mixture of equal amounts of olive oil and water into your hair. Leave on for 5 minutes, then shampoo and rinse. Your scalp will benefit from healthy conditioning; your hair will respond with more shine and strength.

Reference: http://www.oliveoilsource.com/

February 16, 2011