OLEON A NATURAL CHEMISTRYPersonal Care
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Transcript of OLEON A NATURAL CHEMISTRYPersonal Care
OLEONA NATURAL CHEMISTRY Personal Care
J&J – BSI SEMINAR 14th May 2012
A fruitfull collaboration
On 10 specialty products;
Radia 7750; Isoamy LaurateRadia 2253; Polyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleateRadia 7758; Sorbitan IsostearateRadia 7447; PEG-8 DiisostearateRadia 7687; Neopentylglycol DiisostearateRadia 7181; Pentaertythrityl Tetraisostearate Radia 7373; TriisostearinRadia 7380; Trimethylol Propane TriisostearateRadia 2248 ; Polyglyceryl-3 stearateRadia 7887; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
WHO IS OLEON?
OleonOleon is a leading company in Europe for the production of chemicals based on Natural OilsNatural Oils.
Oleon is a subsidiary of the SofiproteolSofiproteol group, Europe’s reference for vegetable oil with activities in food, feed, biofuels and oleochemistry.
Core business of Oleon
BiotechnologiesSeeds
PesticidesOther services for agriculture Growers
Collect of oilseeds and protein rich
seeds Crushing
OilsFood
Renewable energies
Renewable chemicals
Oil cake
Animal health and breeding
Animal nutrition
Breeders Transformation and animal productions
Growers and breeders
Oilseeds division
Food and animal sector division
Other Agricultural industries with Sofiprotéol concern
International character of Oleon
5
Oleon Americas
Oleon Sales Offices
6 Plants (Ertvelde, Oelegem, Compiègne, Sandefjord, Emmerich, Port Klang)
Oleon HQ
Oleon Northern Europe
Oleon GmbH
Oleon Southern Europe
Oleon France
Oleon UK
Oleon Asia Pacific
Oleon China
Values of Oleon
Quality focusCOSMOS/Ecocert
Kosher/Halal
Technical involvement
Application research &
Product improvement
in R&D lab
Environmental concern
RSPO member
Iso14001 certification
Innovation driven
Investments in
innovation centre
Oleon is an RSPO member
Among its principles
…Respect for rights of land owners, farmworkers, smallholders and their families.
…No primary forests or high conservation value areas sacrificed for new palm oil plantations
Oleon is member since 2007
Oleon respects RSPO principle & criteria
RSPO
Promoting the Growth And Use of Sustainable Palm Oil
Our Chemistry.
Rapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut, Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor…
From nature to oleochemistry
Containing
From oleochemistry to consumer product
HydrolysesGlycerol Fatty acid
Esterification
EsterFatty acid Alcohol building block
A glance into the Radia building blocks
Alcohol-function- OH
+ =
INCI
PolyglycerolPolyglyceryl-3 stearate
Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate
Sorbitan + polyethyleneglycolPolysorbate 20Polysorbate 60Polysorbate 80
Sorbitan
Sorbitan LaurateSorbitan Laurate
Fatty acid – function-COOH
Sorbitan OleateSorbitan trioleate
C8/C10Lauric acid
Myristic acidPalmitic acidStearic acidOleic acid
Isostearic acid
Sorbitan isostearateIsoamyl Isoamyl laurate
IsopropylIsopropyl myristateIsopropyl palmitate
Isopropyl isostearate
Pentaerythrityl
Pentaerythrithyl tetra caprylate/tetracaprate
Pentaerythrithyl stearatePentaerythrithyl tetrastearate
Pentaerythrithyl tetraisostearate
Propylene glycolPropylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate
Propylene glycol stearate
Glycerol
caprylic/capric triglycerideGlyceryl laurate (90%)
Glyceryl stearate
Glyceryl oleate…
WHAT CAN WE OFFEREmulsifiers
Characteristics
Radia portfolio
Eye catchers
Emollients
Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents
In the picture
Radia 7887
Radia 7750
Isostearic derivates
• Stands for: Hydrophilic/lipophilic Balance• Established for: Non-ionic emulsifiers• Formula: HLB = 20* [MW hydrophilic part/MW total molecule]• Purpose: Scale to performance of the emulsifier
High HLB = hydophylic typeLow HLB = lipophylic type
Characteristics: HLB-scale of William C. Griffin
FA function
Hydrophylic part
Lipophylic part
High HLB
FA function
Hydrophylic part
Lipophylic part
Low HLB
High HLB Water solubleOil in Water emulsion
Low HLB Oil (Fat) solubleWater in oil emulsion
Radia
Radiasurf 7755
Radiamuls 2253Radia 7887
Radiasurf 7758Radiamuls 2155
Radiasurf 7145Radiasurf 7141
Radiasurf 7443Radiasurf 7402Radiasurf 7125
Radiamuls 2248Radiasurf 7447Radiasurf 7444Radiasurf 7454
Radiasurf 7473Radiasurf 7403Radiasurf 7423Radiasurf 7404Radiamuls 2157Radiasurf 7147Radiasurf 7137
Characteristics: HLB versus performance
Characteristics O/W emulsifier
Mixing unlike oils together
Making W/O emulsions
• Making self-emulsifying oils
• Wetting Powders
Making O/W emulsions using surfactant blends
•Making detergent solutions (HLB 13-15)
•Solubilizing oils (micro-emulsifying) into water (10-18)
HLB123
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
121314
15
1617181920
WHAT CAN WE OFFEREmulsifiersEmollients
CharacteristicsRadia portfolioEye catchers
Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agentsIn the picture
Radia 7887Radia 7750Isostearic derivates
… softens and smoothes the skin… results in elastic and lubricated skin
An emollient can be characterised by sensorial terminology:SpreadingAbsorptionGreasinessStickinessSoftnessSmoothness
Characteristics: An emollient and its sensorial aspect
An emollient can be characterised by physico chemical terminology
Low viscosity Viscosity = light feel & good spread
Branched structure Liquid means easy to handle = Cold processing
Light feel
Saturated structure Chemical stability No off odour, no off colour
Low molecular weight light & dry feel quick absorption
High polarity (Harkin) Good spread
Low contact angle Wetting capacity
Characteristics: An emollient and its chemistry
WHAT CAN WE OFFEREmulsifiersEmollientsStabilizers &Pearlescent body agentsIn the picture
Radia 7887Radia 7750Isostearic derivates
How commercial is a W/O-emulsion?
Applications:Sun Screen milksSkin protective baby creamsMassage milks Lotions and creams
For dry and sensitive skinHand & feet careNight creams
Properties:Skin protectionLong lasting moisturizationResemblance to the natural skin protective barrierImproved spreading and penetration of active ingredientsReduced preservative concentration
Radia 7887: W/O emulsion
COLD PROCESSING
equals cost reduction by means of
…time
No heating time
No cooling time
…energy
No need for melting
…amount
No additional co-emulsifier
Low concentration
T (°C)
+/- 80
20
1 2 3
Homogenize4 5
Hot Process
Cold Process
Time
T(°C)
20
1 2 3
Homogenize
4
5
Time
How do you benefit of a cold process method?
Radia 7887: cold process
POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE & SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE
Radia 7887: its building blocks
Glycerol
Saponification of a vegetable oil
Rapeseed oil
Ricinoleate
Extraction & destillation
Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae)
Sorbitol
Hydrogenation & filtration
Wheat/Maize
Isostearate
Saponification, neutralization &
destillation
Rapeseed oil
The identity of Radia 7887
How to reach consistency with only liquid ingredients?
• Increase of water phase %
• Using emollients with higher viscosity
• Homogenization (sharing force)
Radia 7887: viscosity
Results in a rich, consistent and stable cream
Test formulation W/O
Oil phaseOil 10 %, 18% or 30%Emulsifier 1% or 4%
Water phase
Glycerol 4%MgSO4.7H2O 0,7%Preservative q.s.Water to 100%
Low external phase = 10%High external phase = 30%Low surfactant = 1%High surfactant = 3.5%
Evaluation methods
1) Centrifuge stability(3x15min @ 4000rpm)
2) Temperature stability8 weeks @ 50°C3 months@ 40°C>4 months@ RTFreeze-thaw 5 cycles at -15°C/RT
3) Viscosity stability ( mPas)Brookfield 10rpm, 1 minute, LVT spindle
After 1 dayAfter 3 months
4) AppearanceVisual aspect
Stability testing parameters?
Radia 7887: stability
What about stability performance?
• A low emulsifier (1%) emulsion showed to be stable with…MCT…paraffin oils up to 18%
• A high emulsifier (4%) emulsion showed to be stable with…MCT…sunflower oil…paraffin oils
• A remarkable synergy and high viscosity is observed using sunflower oil which benefits your green formulation.
• R7887 emulsions show stability with internal phases up to 82%!
Radia 7887: stability
•Phase •Ingredient •INCI •% w/w
•A •Radia 7887 •Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate •3.6
•Radia 7373 •Triisostearin •0.5
•Radia 7363 •Triolein (= Sunflower oil) •18
•B •Glycerin 4810 •Glycerin •4
•water •Aqua •To 100
•Mg.SO4.7H2O •0.8
•C •preservative •0.7
Low Cost W/O protective cream HP11-22-2
Viscosity : 121000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 7, rpm 10, 1 min.)Assessment: Rich protective cream, high viscosity, film forming , good spreading
Radia 7887: formulations
•Phase •Ingredient •INCI •% w/w
•A •Radia 7887 •Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate •4
•Radia 7208 •Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate •2
•Radia 7732 •Isopropyl Palmitate •11
•Sweet almond oil •2
•Avocado oil •2
•B •Glycerin 4810 •Glycerin •3
•water •Aqua •To 100
•Mg.SO4.7H2O •0.5
•C •preservative •0.7
W/O soft body cream/Lotion HP03-54-3
•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)
•Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading
Radia 7887: formulations
•Phase •Ingredient •INCI •% w/w
•A •Radia 7887 •Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate •3,6
•Olive Oil •15
•Radia 7373 •Triisostearin •0,5
•Radia 7500 •Cetyl Palmitate •2
•B •Glycerin 4810 •Glycerin •3
•water •Aqua •To 100
•Mg.SO4.7H2O •0.5
•C •preservative •0.7
•ZnO •10
Low Cost Protective baby cream HP11-12-1
•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)
•Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading
Radia 7887: formulations
Radia 7887: the movie
WHAT CAN WE OFFEREmulsifiersEmollientsStabilizers &Pearlescent body agentsIn the picture
Radia 7887Radia 7750Isostearic derivates
The identity of Radia 7750
Radia 7750: a green chemical
Radia 7750: wetting properties
Usage level
Often used as primary oil : 4-80%.
Higher usage levels 30-80% in all kind of body oils & bath oils.
O/W and W/O emulsion creams: 5-20%.
Wet wipes O/W: 0.5-2 %
Natural hair care: 1-5%
Radia 7750: practical use
WHAT CAN WE OFFEREmulsifiersEmollientsStabilizersPearlescent body agentsIn the picture
Radia 7887Radia 7750Isostearic derivates
Isostearic derivates: Characteristics
Isostearic derivates are saturated:Chemical stabilityNo need for antioxidant
Isostearic acid is a natural based building block from rapeseed oil.
Isostearic derivates are branched:Excellent emolliency
Non-greasy afterfeelHighly substantive lipid filmSoft skinfeelGlossy appearance
Isostearic derivates: Characteristics
Isostearic derivates have a low melting point (vs straight-chain analogues):
No crystallization
Isostearic derivatives can replace oleic derivatives
Isostearic derivates are liquid:Cold emulsion methodPracticial useA solution for heat sensitive productsA solution for challenging formulations
Isostearic derivates: Portfolio
INCI Radia
Isostearyl alcohol Radianol 1980
Isostearic Acid Radiacid 908/909
Neopentylglycol Diisostearate Radia 7687
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate Radia 7181
Triisostearin Radia 7373
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate Radia 7380
Isopropyl Isostearate Radia 7739
INCI: TRIISOSTEARIN
Performance: Dispersant & adhesion promotor of pigmentsSolvating functionality Modifies melting points
Sensorial: Long lasting spreadability (no migration) when combined with ligh emollient
Speciality: ‘Natural oil – like’ with enhanced emulsification properties
Applications: Lipsticks (long lasting)Colour cosmetics
Radia 7373
Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7373
Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7739
Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7380
Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7687
Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7181
Oleon Head OfficeAssenedestraat 2
9940 Ertvelde - BelgiumT: +32 (0)9 341 10 11F: +32 (0)9 341 10 00E: [email protected]