INTRODUCTION

Oriental carpet manufacturers abbreviated as OCM, situated at Chheharta, Amritsar is a world class

mill with growing international presence. OCM has become a synonym for quality suiting. It is the

first worsted mill in India to get the prestigious ISO-9001 certifications. It was established in

Amritsar in 1924 by a British company for manufacturing of hand knotted carpets for the supply to

its subsidiary company, the East India carpet ltd. OCM carpets have enjoyed the highest goodwill

for their fine quality and vibrant designs both in the home and foreign market and that is from where

it got its name OCM.

All departments of OCM, ranging from designing to finishing, work congenial for producing right

kind of fabric which has the right feel, fall and drape and maintains its ironed look throughout the

day. OCM has the facility to execute all stages of spinning, weaving, processing, dyeing and

finishing except changing raw wool into workable for spinning, so they buy tops of fibers.

Fig.1.1-View of OCM textile mill

THE COMPANY

Since its inception in 1924 as a manufacturer of hand-knotted carpets, OCM has come a long way to

become one of the largest worsted suiting producer, the first one to implement a customized textile

ERP solution. A completely vertically integrated plant, OCM has in-house production facilities to

convert tops to finished fabrics through dyeing, spinning, weaving and finishing using state-of-the-

art machinery. All the materials and processes pass through stringent checks at every stage and help

in delivering outstanding quality.

At present the company’s capacity includes 34064 Spindles and 182 high speed shuttle-less Looms

thereby giving spinning capacity of 12000 kg yarn and weaving capacity of 25000 Mtrs of fabric per

day. The spinning preparatory is from NSC, France, Spindles from Zinser, Germany, Autoconers

from Schlhafhorst, Germany, TFO’s from Leewha, Korea and looms from Lindaeur Dornier,

1

Germany, Sulzer, Switzerland and Picanol, Belgium. Apart from this, color continuity is tested on

color matching system from Gretag Macbreath, UK and fabric gets final finish on Decatiser from

Biella Shrunk, Rotary Press of Mario Crosta, Italy, Continuous Decatising from Speretto Rimar,

Italy, Superfinish from M-Tec, Germany and Shearing machine from Xetma Vollenweider,

Switzerland.

The company has its age not only in the home market but is also exporting to several countries like

Canada, USA, Middle East and other its wool blended fabrics and innovative wool.

THE PROMOTERS

Early 2007, it has been acquired by a New York, US based, global private equity fund management

company, WL Ross & Co. LLC, headed by Wilbur L Ross Jr. Other notable business initiatives of

WL Ross & Co. LLC include:

International Steel Group

Kansai Sawayaka Bank ( Japan )

International Textile Group

International Automotive Components Group

International Coal Group

International Textile Group ( ITG ) is a portfolio company of the WL Ross Group, formed in March

2004 through the merger of :

Cone Denim – one of the world’s largest denim manufacturer.

Burlington Industries – one of the world’s largest worsted wool manufacturers

CORE ORGANISATION VALUES & HRD POLICY

OCM recognizes that its people are the primary source of its competitiveness. A strong belief that

"to succeed requires the highest standards of corporate behavior towards our employees, consumers

and the societies ". OCM's corporate philosophy is embedded in its commitment to all stakeholders -

consumers, employees, shareholders, financiers, the environment and the society that the

organization operates in. It is committed to provide equal employment opportunities for attracting

the best available talent and ensuring a cosmopolitan workforce. It pursues management practices

designed to enrich the quality of life of its employees, develop their potential and maximize their

productivity.

NEW DEVELOPMENTS

Recent developments in OCM is the opening of retail outlets one of which is functioning smoothly

in Amritsar and there are plans of the management to open more retail outlets in other cities to

increase its customer base. They have also bought new machineries in many departments this year,

especially in finishing department.

2

LAYOUT OF THE OCM MILL

312

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

1

115

16

1

1

1

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

2

3

2

3

Main gate OCM conference room EP Godown Colony for workers Warehouse

OCM club Canteen

Playground Car parking

Double storey flats PPC and design dept. Emporium OCM(1924) Cycle stand Quality assurance

Water supply tower Weaving dept.

Flats Post spinning dept.

Store/godown Dye house

Scooter/car parking

Guest house Finishing dept.

New spinning f New spinning department

4

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

1

1

1

1

1

2

1

Temple

1

1

1

1

2

2

2

2

2

2 Inspection dept.

2

2

2

3

3

Ambulance room

Personnel dept.

Substation

Compressors

DEPARTMENTS

Production Department

This department of the company is further subdivided into:

Designing Department Production Planning and Control

Spinning Section Dye House

Weaving Section Finishing Section

Quality control departments Inspection

5

Raw materials used in OCM

The main raw material used in OCM are polyester and wool( superfine micron wool) imported from

Australia. For polyester, trilobal polyester fibres are mostly used because it is more brighter and

lustrous and provides more shine due to its trilobal structure. Other than trilobal polyester, terellene

is also used. Raw material other than wool and polyester, like silk,viscose, cotton and linen were

rarely used(if required by the buyer).

Wool used in OCM is generally of:

18.5 microns

19.5 microns

20 microns

21.5 microns

22.5 microns

28.5 microns

The blends of yarns are

Polyester/wool: 70/30,60/40, 85/15, 55/45, 65/35

Silk/wool

Polyester/viscose

Polyester/wool/viscose

Polyester/wool/cotton

Polyester/wool/linen

The main sources from where the wool is bought:

Digjam Jamnagar

Oswal

Grasim

Jaishree

Polyester is brought from:

Digjam Jamnagar

Jogindher worsted Ludhiana

DESIGNING

6

Organization Chart

Manager (Mr. Atul Kumar)

Assistant Manager (Mr. Anand Bhardwaj)

Technical Officer Supervisor

(Mr. Pritpal Singh) (Mr. Vijay Kumar)

Designer (Mr. Manish Mishra)

(Mr. Harpreet Singh) (Mr. Harpreet Singh)

Technical Assistant

(Mr. Amit Sharma)

Designing plays a major role in the whole process of fabric making. This department first receives

feedback from the market and after analyzing of various factors, the designs are developed and then

further processed. The designs are developed keeping in mind the two seasons, i.e. Spring/Summer

& Autumn/Winter. They produce about 300 designs per season. New designs are developed

according to the market trends along with improving some of the designs of the old designs.

Fig.1.2- new design samples being developed

Flow chart of work of design department

7

Basic Design/Pattern Requirement

Yarn Indent

Basic Design/Pattern Development

Blanket Development

Design/Pattern Selection

Master Cards

Feeler Manufacturing

Production Plan

Master Card Delivery

Feedback

BASIC DESIGN/PATTERN REQUIREMENT

The process of making new designs requires main four resources-market survey, last year sales

record, fashion forecasting magazines and fashion shows. The design department also developes

designs according to their conceptualization. Ideas of new developments are received from

Market/Sales Department for Domestic Market and from International Division for export market.

Fabric samples received from buyer are another source of development of design. Requirement of

design patterns(quality wise) is received from sales department before commencement of every

range i.e summer/winter. For export collection requirement of design patterns is made in

culsuntation with ID before commencement of every collection. For export market any development

to be done for the customer is received from International Division. In case of new cutting received

from Market/Sales/ID, the same is sent to QC labs for analysis. After getting the test report, yarns

are indented if required, through PPC.

8

YARN INDENT

New shades are selected by HOD( designing) according to the prevailing trends both for top dyeing

and for cone dyeing in standard qualities. In case of new qualities, count blends and twist per inch

are also decided. New shades are given name and allocated in shade code register.

Shade codes:

Shade family Depth Nature of shade

1.Golden Light Solid

2.Brown Medium Mixture

3.Red Dark Printed

4.Purple Milange

5.Blue

6.Green

7.Yellow

8.Grey

9.Black

10.White

BASIC DESIGN/PATTERN DEVELOPMENT

Procedure for basic design development includes Blend composition, type of raw material, twist,

count and shade as the main inputs. For basic design development, already tested and well identified

yarn lots are taken from yarn stores. The loom sett (ends/inch x picks/inch x reed width in inches on

loom) is decided as per the requirement of the end product. For feel, handle is sent to finishing and

finishing department decides the process sequence. To establish a basic design, feeler sample is

made and approval is taken from Sales or International Division for developing design patterns.

BLANKET PATTERN

9

Various design patterns are produced by making blanket sample in different qualities for export and

domestic market. Designing staff person fill up the blanket sample development card. Design

number and piece number are allocated in a register. Weaving department(designing section)

weaves the development sample as per instructions on development card number. After greasy

inspection by greasy perch, the blanket sample is sent to finishing department through mending

department. After finished inspection by greasy perch, blanket sample is received in designing

department. The same is inspected by HOD (designing) and then marked and cut suitably for

aapproval of design patterns. In case of customer qualities, samples are sent to customer for

selection.

Fig 1.3-Master card

MASTER CARD:

Master cards of approved basic/design patterns are made in following sequence-.

First of all design number is given according to quality in quality code register. Designing person

makes the master card of each approved design in master card book and puts his signature. Loom

sett of each and every master card is signed by HOD or his authorized deputy. While making master

card, draft and peg plan are made according to design on a graph card. These draft and pegplan cards

are distributed to weaving.

According to the blend of the fabric, the records are put in the blend code register. Master cards are

fed in computer and made available on line in net work after checking.

FEELER MANUFACTURING

The purpose of making feeler samples is that customers and manufacturers can have the proper feel

and fall of the fabric and buyer can book their order by checking these feelers. Feelers are made by

PPC after sampling order is released to PPC Before these feelers are shown in the meeting these are

sent to the quality lab for testing. Feeler length is decided as per the requirement of Sample Section.

After finishing, feelers are checked for feel and finish of the design/ design pattern. Any

10

addition/deletion and future development is recorded and action is taken accordingly. In case of

feeler which is rejected due to some nonconformity, such as specifications or defectives, it is kept

separate by giving new design number and sold separately to avoid mix up with new feelers.

PRODUCTION PLAN

The Production plan is received from sales for regular ranges according to market requirements and

the whole process is made according to this production plan. To consume left over yarns some new

designs are made for which master cards and the production plans are delivered to PPC and their

information is sent to sales department.

Shades are sent to D/H for development. After developments these shades are checked either by the

designing department, or are approved by the party. These are then send to the QC lab for testing. If

these shade pads are approved then they are sent to dye house for final production.

MASTER CARD DELIVERY:

The master card made is checked by firstly the technical officer and then by HOD (Design). After

this the master card is sent to Q.C Lab, from where it goes on to the PPC (Production Planning &

Control). If any problem occurs at subsequent stage of production (due to nature of design), the

matter is discussed with the Sales management and higher authorities if required.

FEEDBACK:

Feedback for further development is received from the different sources like best seller designs of

previous range, fashion periodicals, journals, market surveys by sales people (designing).

Software verification

All the software/ hardware used in the Designing Department are maintained by IT Department.

Software is verified by taking print out of standard master cards after every 6 months.

All records are kept systematically so that they are legible, readily identifiable and readable.

For preparing these feeler samples, the department has separate facility. There were 19 power looms

with 12 heald shafts capacity. Out of these machines, there were 4 machines with shuttle boxes with

capacity of 4 boxes for making checks. There are 23 workers in one shift in design department..

PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL

11

This department plans the production and issues the various plans to different departments and also

controls the whole production process. The main purpose of this department is to control the time of

the material handling by all the departments at the time of production. This department issues orders

to each department and each department works according to its instruction. It also estimates the

amount of raw material required in production and gives instruction to purchase department so that

they could buy the raw material accordingly. It controls the activities by implementing the rules as

per ISO 9001.

Estimation of raw material

Design-wise manufacturing plan

Yarn Spinning Order

Monitoring Yarn stock/indents

Issuing warp/weft piece tickets to weaving

Monitoring fabric production

Reports for sales plan v/s production

ESTIMATION OF RAW MATERIAL

The tentative planning for winter and summer seasons is made on the basis of average weight per

meter and basic blend composition for each quality, EPI and PPI for the fabric and the count of the

yarn being made for the fabric.

DESIGN WISE MANUFACTURING PLAN

The actual production programme for Civil and Government Institutions is received from Sales

Department and the Export order from Export Section. Production plan is divided into months

according to monthly capacity and given targets.

YARN SPINNING ORDER

The master cards are provided by designing through Q.C.lab and the sensitivity index number is

given through fabric sample alongwith the master card. The master card from Q.C. lab help in

issuing indents to Spinning, Recombing & Dye House. The process completion dates are put on the

12

indents, which helps the PPC to monitor the process. The weaving target for next month is printed in

the last week of the month, keeping in mind the exact yarn indent position.

Separate yarn spinning orders are prepared for the individual yarn count; blend and computer prints

are taken. Indents for yarn dyeing are given to the dye house. Development of new yarn and shades

are also routed through the PPC department.

Unused yarns left from the previous indents are also taken for the fresh yarn spinning order and

these records are also kept with PPC department.

MONITORING YARN STOCK/INDENTS

The yarn received in Excise Paid Yarn Store (E.P.Y.S) from worsted spinning is weighed, recorded

and stored. The yarns are issued for the use after proper testing by Q.C. lab and shades approved by

designing dept. The yarn stock and the position of indents is monitored carefully so that the target

dates can be achieved and no process go out of control. Daily status of production is checked at

various stages for this purpose.

ISSUE OF WARP/WEFT PIECE TICKETS TO WEAVIN

The warp and weft piece tickets(prepared from master cards) are issued to weaving which contains

the full plan to weave the fabric. The color, pattern and designs are contained in the piece tickets and

the operator of loom understands the details(warp number, export order information, party name,

total order, warehouse and delivery date)and manufactures the fabric accordingly.

MONITORING FABRIC PRODUCTION

Any confusion related to design/shades in the inspection section, the matter is solved by P.P.C. The

fabric production stage is monitored so that the target dates are achieved to the maintaining of

quality and better production.

Report of warp loading is registered by weaving department on daily basis. Daily off loom position,

inspected by greasy perch, is registered. Report of finished good from inspection to warehouse is

prepared.

Reports are prepared to see the variation in production in weaving department and necessary actions

are taken, if it exists.

13

NEW SPINNING

Organization chart

General manager( Mr. S.P.S Sengar)

Quality Production Manager Maintenance Store

Incharge

D.G.M (Mr.Vikas Shukla) Sr. Manager

(Mr.C Saxena) (Mr.M.P Singh)

Preperatory Ringframe Auto Coner

( Mr.V Shukla) ( Mr. Yashwinder) (Mr.Bharat bhushan)

Mr.Jaswant Mr. Parashwan

Tech officer Mr. Surendra pal Tech officer

(Mr. Avinash) (Mr. Pawan Aneja)

Mr. Sawinder Mr. Panchanan Mr.Bua Singh

14

PROCESS SEQUENCE

RAW WOOL IN TOP FORM

GILLING

BLENDING(4 passages)

COMBING

AUTO LEVELLING

DRAW FRAME( 2 Passages)

SPEED FRAME

RING FRAME

AUTO CONER

STEAMING

WEAVING POST SPINNING

In new spinning department, the slivers in top form are converted to single yarn by drawing and

twisting and then winding them into bobbins.

From loose fibres comprising between 10-20 mm, the new spinning involves a number of processes

intended to

Remove foreign substances from fibre

Disentangle the fibres

Making the fibres parallel

Give them a twist.

15

The machines used in this department (in order of processing of material) are -

S. no Machine Type Manufacture No. of machines

1 GILLING M/C NSC 9

1 BLENDING M/C NSC 12

2 COMBER NSC 19

3 AUTO LEVELLING NSC 6

4 DRAW FRAME NSC 12

5 SPEED FRAME NSC 5

6. RING FRAME ZINSER 44

7 AUTO CONER 9

8 STEAMING STAFI 2

MACHINE DESCRIPTION

GILLING MACHINE

Gilling machines is used for blending, drafting, and oiling to make the tops uniform in weight and

length. The machine processes the tops while making the fibers straight and parallel which increases

the uniformity in sliver.

From the back of the machine, the tops are fed. After passing through the feed rollers, tops move

through the gilling field which consists of top and bottom fallers moving in same direction as that of

top. Fallers are like combs consisting of pins whose density can vary according to the materials

being processed and the stage at which it is being processed. The machine head consists of 72 right

and 72 left fallers which are installed alternately( 1 top and 1 bottom). Faller ends are placed in two

chains which drive the fallers and are themselves driven through gearing arrangement. Only 22

fallers are in operation at any instant. The density of pins in the fallers may vary from 3 pins per cm

to 9 pins/cm. Low density pins are round in section while high density pins are flat.

After the material passes through the fallers, it passes through the delivery rollers whose speed

governs the actual draft given to the material. The draft ratio can vary from 4-12(set by draft

gearbox with stepped cones). There is a nozzle to spray antistatic oil on to the output fibers top. It

should be kept in mind that percentage oil content in wool fibers should be 0.8 to 1% and 0.5 % for

polywool. Humidity level should be 65-70% and temperature should be 27-30 degrees.

16

Fig.1.4- Gilling machine( GC-14)

GC-14 Gilling Machine Head Specifications

Fallers filled with roller chains 9.5 mm

Number of fallers 2 x 72

Pinned width-normal head 220 mm

Pinned width-wide head 270 mm

Pin projection 14 mm

Working fallers per field 22

Pinned length 200 mm

Maximum input speed 80 mm

Diameter of drafting cylinder 30mm (small) and 62.5 mm(bigger)

Diameter of top drafting cylinder 80mm

Pin density 3-9 pins per cm

BLENDING

In blending process, two or more tops of same or different fibers are uniformly mixed resulting in

composition of uniform top. There are variety of reasons of blending like

To produce an end product with characteristics unattainable from one component.

To produce special effects.

To ensure continuity of supply and avoid batch to batch variations.

To improve processibilty and spinning performance.

To exploit advertising/consumer appeal.

17

Fallers in machine separate fibers from each other and open the tops and mix the fibers properly to

achieve a uniform composition. There is set of four blending machines which through basic gilling

machine principles increase uniformity of required blend. The output of these four machines has a

uniform linear weight of fibers in the top. All these blender vary in pin density in fallers to separate

fibers as we go from one machine to another(4 passages). The blenders while blending also apply

draft on to the fibers tops to control the weight per unit length.

1st passage and 2nd passage – 3 pins per cm

3rd passage – 4 pins per cm

4th passage – 5 pins per cm

COMBING

After blending, fibers in sliver form are send for combing. In combing process, fibers are made more

parallel, short fibres are removed, front hooks and tail hooks are removed, impurities like dust and

vegetable matter are removed.

Numbers of slivers (maximum 24) are fed in to the machine from the back side through feeding

rollers. A fibre tuft is torn out of the feed sliver by a gripper system. The heads of the fibres are

cleaned by a rotating comb and the fibre tuft is then gripped by a pair of detaching rollers. At this

stage the rectilinear comb lowers itself and combs the back ends of the fibres. The tufts are then

overlapped and taken up in form of sliver. A crimping device imparts consistency to the sliver,

before its laying into a can. The short fibers and impurities are removed and are collected at the

bottom with the help of a doffer.

The speed of the machine is measured in nips/min and amount of feed is determined by the nip

distance( also called feed length). These are set differently for different material(type of fibre, its

diameter, its length). There is a shovel plate which feeds predetermined amount of fibers through the

nipper jaws. Nipper jaw clamp the fibers and nipper brush pushes fibers into circular comb which

removes short fibres and impurities. The top comb enters the fibre mass behind the nipper jaws.

When top comb is at bottom of the stroke, nipper jaws release the mass. The drawing off rollers

move to pick the combed fringe and pull fibres through top comb. The vegetable matter and short

fibres are held behind the top comb and are removed by the segment on the next cycle. When the

drawing off roller grasps the fringe, the front carriage moves forward while the rollers rotate,

drawing the fibers onto the apron. Air suction is used to control the trailing fibres so they are not

caught on the segment.The top comb is compressed of a strip of very fine pins. Pinning density

varies, like for fine wool is combed on 30 pins per cm and coarser wool being combed at 25 pins per

cm. Finer the wool, greater the pinning density. Pinning density is also increased if wool contains lot

of vegetable matter. Selection of the pinning for top comb and the segment is highly dependent on

micron and contamination level of the input wool.

18

Specifications of Combing Machine

Running speed 175-210 nips/min

Feeding Cans(doubling 16-24)

Feed comb pinned length 410 mm

Top comb pinned length 470 mm

Circular comb pinned length 440 mm

Drawing off cylinder 25/28

Doffer diameter 138 mm

Drawing off apron 640 mm x 530 mm

After the combing or post combing, waviness of combed tops is removed and tops are made into

balls to reduce the number of cans required. The tops are continuously attenuated in weight/length

during passage through post combing section. In post combing, two machines are used-

1. Gill box- to draft the tops and remove the waviness

2. Gill box with auto leveler and auto balling component.

The first machine working is same as that of gilling machine working.

Working of second machine i.e. auto leveler is explained below.

AUTO LEVELLER

The function of auto leveler drawframe is to make the sliver weight/length uniform. An auto leveler

gill box has an exception that it contains a sensor to measure the thickness (difference) of the sliver

and single drafting zone mounted in front of the head. Any variation in the thickness of the sliver is

changed to electrical signal, which increases or decreases the speed of front drafting zone.

Fig.1.5- Diagram showing parts of Auto leveler machine

19

At the machine input, fed web is sensed by a mechanical device with rollers. The displacements of

the measuring roller are converted to analogical tension by an electronic sensor. These variations are

processed by digital calculator which ensures the function of memory and of operator machine

interface. At the precise movement, when variations are in drafting zone, the calculator corrects the

I/P speed by moving the variator belt by means of an electrical stepping motor.

The regulation range is +15% to -25%. If the material goes beyond this range, the machine stops.

The machine is equipped with a mechanism by which the output tops are made into balls which are

stored in case of delayed subsequent processing.

SPEED FRAME Its function is to attenuate the sliver into a rove and to produce a suitable package to be fed into a

ring frame. They are called rovers in OCM as their name is derived from FM-7 rovers. In addition to

reduction of weight/length of the tops, a small twist is provided in this machine. The sliver from the

feed passes through the sliver guides, optical detection system and goes into a double apron drafting

system. The drafted material then goes between two rubber aprons which moves axially causing the

fibres to roll over each other, they twist first into one direction and then into the opposite direction

as they move forward, the row is then wound on the roving bobbin. The twist is based on false twist

principle. Weight of the package from this machine is set according to the order and in such a way

that roving machine is used properly.

Specifications of Speed Frame or Roving Machine

Number of drafting elements 12,16,20

Ends per drafting elements 2

Doubling per end 1 or 2

Maximum input 15

Maximum and minimum delivery weight 1.5 and 0.25

Draft range 9 to 26

Tube’s length(for rove) in mm 243

Tube diameter in mm 70

Bobbin diameter in mm 300

Back to front cylinder distance in mm 330

Feed cylinder diameter in mm 40

Draft cylinder diameter in mm 25 and 50

Pressure cylinder diameter in mm 70

Maximum delivery speed(m/min) 200

20

RING FRAME

Ring frame converts the roving into a yarn and simultaneously twist it while it is wound on a ring

bobbin to provide the strength to the yarn to make it stable. In OCM, there are 44 ring frame

machines and they all are of Zinser, company of France. There is 3 by 3 system for twisting yarn.

The drafting zone is divided into three parts –Back rollers, Middle rollers, and Front rollers.

Fig.1.6- Zinser 451 ring frame

Between the front and back rollers, there is a condenser which brings the fibres together, so that

after drafting they should not move away from each other. Middle rollers are covered with aprons

which are driven from these rollers. Aprons facilitate the drafting by making the fibres stay together.

Actual drafting takes place between middle and front rollers. There is break draft between middle

and back rollers which removes any twist in the rove so that further processes happen accurately.

The top rollers are covered with synthetic rubber. The draft of the machine can be adjusted from 8 to

80, but is generally kept between 14 to 28.

The rove is then passed through the twisting zone where twisting is done to hold the fibres together.

Twist is provided with help of a ring and traveller. In Zinser machines, flanged rings are used which

are lubricated. There is balloon control ring which controls size of the ring. The spinning ring and

the ring traveler are mounted on the ring rail which continuously moves up and down so that the

bobbin gets wounded in proper way so that the removal of yarn becomes easier in cheese winding

process.

The ring, a metal O is positioned horizontally above the spindle has a C shaped metal strip, which is

the traveler. The traveler is free to rotate around the ring. Directly above the top of the spindle is the

yarn guide. Yarn passes through the front rollers of the drafting system and through the yarn guide,

under the traveler and on to the package mounted on the spindle.

When the spindle rotates, the length of the yarn between it and the traveler drags the traveler around

the ring, one turn of twist being inserted for each revolution of traveler. Twisting and winding onto

the package occur simultaneously, because the traveler revolutions are less than that of the

spindle( friction between the traveler and ring retards the traveler speed), allowing the yarn to be

wound onto the package surface.

21

Specifications of zinser 451 machine

Application area Staple fibres up to 200 mm

Count range 167-8 tex (Nm 6-120, Neworsted yarn 5.3-106)

Twist range 100–3500 T/m

Draft range 8–80 fold

Spindle gauge 75; 82.5 mm

Tube length 220–260 mm

Ring diameter 42–58 mm

Number of spindles 240–1200 (guage = 75)180–1116 (guage = 82.5)

7. AUTO CONER – Its function is to remove the yarn faults with the help of an optical sensor and

splice and to produce bigger package from small ring bobbins.

There are many defects which are produced after spinning like-

1. Neps- They have yarn diameter that is seven times more than the normal yarn.

2. Thick places-

Short- They have diameter which is 3 times more than normal yarn but of length 3 cms

Long- They have diameter which is 1.25 times more than normal yarn but of length 3.5

cms or above.

3. Thin places- They have diameter which is -20% that of normal yarn but of length 3 cms or

above.

To remove these defects, we use Auto coner machines. Auto Coner is a highly automated m/c as in

this m/c the empty ring bobbin are automatically replaced, splicer automatically joins the broken

ends. More over an optical sensor equipped with cutters detect the thick and thin places, slubs, neps

etc and splice the broken ends together. All the grooved drums are individually driven and the length

of yarn on package is fixed so that the m/c automatically stops after the required length of yarn.

Marc

hApril

May

JuneJuly

AugSep

tO

ctNov

0

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.4

TargetActual

Fig.1.7- Graph showing percentage defectives in spinning every month

22

Process parameters in New Spinning

Top making

Material Yarn count(Nm)

1st passage 2nd passage

Doubling Nominal draft

Wrapping(Gm/Mtr)

Doubling Nominal draft

Wrapping(Gm/Mtr)

Poly/wool Upto 50 8-10 7.0-8.4 22.0 8 8.0 22.0

Above 50 8-10 7.2-8.6 20.0 8 8.0 20.0

Pure wool 10-25 8 7.0-9.8 24.0 7 7.0 24.0

32-80 8 7.0-9.8 22.0 7 7.0 22.0

Combing

Poly/wool and pure wool

Quality No. of ends to feed

Feeding(gm/mtr)

Nip distance(mm)

Feed length(mm)

Top comb(PPCM)

Speed(nips/min)

24 Nm to 52 Nm P/W

24 348 36 6.7-15T 28 190

60 Nm P/W(85/15)

24 276 36 6.8-17T 30 190

48 Nm to 60 Nm P/W

24 324 36 6.7-15T 28 190

61 Nm to 80 Nm P/W

24 300 36 6.7-15T 28 190

90 Nm to 100 Nm P/W

24 324 36 6.7-15T 28 190

78Nm AW17.5 MIC

24 300 36 6.7-15T 30 190

60 Nm to 70 Nm AW20-18.5 MIC

24 324 36 6.7-15T 28 190

25 Nm to 60 Nm AW28 MIC

24 444 36 6.7-15T 28 190

Spinning parameters for pure wool yarns

Count Count Fibre Tpm Twist White Dyed/mix shade

23

(Nm) range specification wheel Speed Ring tr. Speed Ring tr.

2/10 9.9-10.1 28.5 µ 356 44T - - 5500 18

1/12 11.7-11.9 28.5 µ 356 44T - - 7500 18

1/18 17.9-18.1 22.5 µ 435 36T - - 8000 19

2/25 25.0-25.2 18.5 µ 475 33T 9000 21 - -

2/25 25.0-25.2 28.0/28.5 µ 475 33T 8500 21 - -

2/32 31.9-32.1 20.5/20.8 µ 455 65T 8500 22 8200 23.5

2/38 38.0-38.3 22.5 µ 519 57T 9500 24 8900 24

2/44 43.5-43.8 22.5/24.5 µ 630 47T 8400 25.5 8000 25

2/60 59.6-59.8 20.0 µ 705 42T 7500 27 7400 27

2/70 69.6-69.8 18.5/19 µ 779 38T 7000 27 6700 27

Spinning parameters for poly/wool blend yarns

Count(Nm)

Countrange

Nominal blend

Fibrespecification

Tpm Twist wheel

White Dyed/mix shade

Speed Ring tr. Speed Ring tr.

1/18 17.8-18.0 49/51 3.0D/21,22.5 µ 423 37T - - 7500 18

1/24 23.8-24.0 55/45 3.0D/22.5 µ 510 38T 8900 19 8700 19

1/30 29.5-30.0 55/45 3.0D/22.5 µ 779 58T - - 10000 23

1/58 57.6-57.8 55/45 2.5D/18.5 µ 822 36T 9200 25

2/24 24.4-24.5 70/30 3.0D/22,24.5 µ 435 36T 8900 19 8700 19

2/32 32.4-32.6 70/30 3.0D/22.5 µ 485 61T 9500 21 9200 21

2/40 40.4-40.7 65/35 3.0D/22,24.5 µ 630 47T 10500 23 10000 23

2/48 48.4-48.7 55/45 3.0,2.5D/22.5 µ 630 47T 10200 24 9800 24

2/60 61.0-61.2 85/15 2.5D/22.5 µ 897 33T 11000 24 10000 23

2/78 78.8-79.2 40/60 2.5D/18.5 µ 822 36T 8800 27 8500 27

Process parameters: Drawing and Speed frame

Doubling - D

Nominal Draft - ND

Wrapping(gm/mtr) - W

Material Yarn 3rd passage 4th passage 5th passage 6th passage Roving

24

count D ND W D ND W D ND W D ND W N WPoly/wool 18-34 8 8.0 22.0 8 8.0 22.0 4 7.7 11.5 4 7.1 6.5 11.34 0.57

35-42 7 7.0 22.0 8 8.0 22.0 4 7.7 11.5 4 7.6 6.0 10.92 0.55

43-48 7 7.3 21.0 8 8.2 20.5 4 7.8 10.5 4 7.6 5.5 11.55 0.48

49-53 7 7.0 20.0 8 8.0 20.0 4 8.0 10.0 4 8.0 5.0 11.55 0.43

54-63 7 7.0 20.0 8 8.0 20.0 4 7.6 10.5 3 7.5 4.2 11.55 0.36

60 7 7.4 19.0 8 8.0 19.0 4 7.6 10.5 3 7.9 3.8 11.55 0.33

8 8.0 20.0

64-72 7 7.0 20.0 8 8.0 20.0 3 6.7 9.0 3 7.7 3.5 11.55 0.30

78-80 7 7.0 20.0 8 8.0 20.0 3 7.1 8.5 3 7.7 3.3 11.55 0.29

90 7 7.0 20.0 8 8.0 20.0 3 7.5 8.0 3 8.0 3.0 12.48 0.24

100 7 7.0 20.0 8 8.0 20.0 3 7.5 8.0 4 6.0 5.3 12.48 0.24

4 7.1 3.0

Pure wool

and

Wool/Visc

10 9 7.2 30.0 8 8.0 30.0 4 6.9 17.5 4 5.6 12.5 9.0 1.39

12 9 7.2 30.0 8 8.0 30.0 4 7.5 16.0 4 5.8 11.0 9.0 1.22

18-21 9 7.2 30.0 8 8.0 30.0 4 7.5 16.0 4 7.5 8.6 10.92 0.78

22-25 8 8.0 24.0 8 8.0 24.0 4 8.0 11.8 4 6.3 7.5 10.92 0.68

26-28 7 8.0 24.0 8 8.0 24.0 4 8.0 11.8 4 7.4 6.5 10.92 0.60

29-38 7 7.3 21.0 8 8.0 21.0 4 7.8 10.8 4 7.9 5.5 11.34 0.49

39-44 7 7.3 21.0 8 8.0 21.0 4 7.3 11.5 3 7.5 4.6 11.34 0.40

48 7 7.3 21.0 8 8.0 21.0 4 7.3 11.5 3 8.0 4.3 11.76 0.37

49-60 7 7.3 21.0 8 8.0 21.0 4 8.0 10.5 3 7.9 4.0 11.76 0.34

61-64 7 7.3 21.0 8 8.0 21.0 3 7.4 8.5 3 7.5 3.4 11.76 0.29

70-72 7 7.3 21.0 8 8.0 21.0 3 7.4 8.5 3 7.5 3.4 12.48 0.27

78-80 7 7.4 20.8 8 8.0 20.8 3 7.6 8.2 3 7.8 3.3 12.48 0.26

One extra passage for poly/wool blend of count 60Nm in 4 th passage and for pure wool of count 100 Nm in 6th package

25

POST SPINNING

Organization chart

General manager( Mr N.K.khanna)

Manager(R.K.S.Malli)

Chandan Singh Kunal Panday R.K.Khanna V.K. Sehgal(Dou.yarn staff incharge) (Shift incharge) (Asst.manager) (Tech.off)

Jugal kishor (Tech.off) Shashi Sharma (tech.off)

The main purpose of post spinning department is to convert the single yarns in to 2 or 3 ply yarns by

applying twist to that yarn. For that, the first stage is that of assembly winding in which two or more

packages are wounded on a single package without imparting any twist on them.

Then the package is sent to TFO where two or more yarns are getting converted into single yarn by

applying twist to them. The twist is imparted with the help of rotation of spindle on which yarn is

getting unwind and the drum speed with which the package is rotated. The motion is transferred

through a pulley, pulley belt and through gears.

After TFO, yarn is send to autoclave for heat set to set the twist in the yarn. In this, yarn is subjected

to vacuum, steam, and air for setting the twist in it.

Then this yarn is set for conditioning and then the yarn is sent for winding according to customers

requirements.

26

PROCESS SEQUENCE

Single Yarn from New Spinning

Assembly Winding ( 6 M/C)Two single yarns parallel wound on cheeses (Untwisted Yarn )

Two For One Twister ( TFO ) ( 53 M/C)Yarn is twisted and wound on required package. Two twists for one rotation of spindle.

Steaming ( Auto Clave) ( 2 M/C)Yarn is steamed under temp and pressure to set the twist and avoid snarling

Conditioning ( 8 Hrs )

Course Count 2/24, 2/32 P/W

Winding ( 4 M/C)

Double Yarn Store

OCM YarnC/ Spinning Yarn

Issued to Weaving

To Packing Section

27

DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESSES

ASSEMBLY WINDING

This preparatory stage for production of ply yarn consists of winding together 2-3 single yarns on

suitable package. It produces ply yarn, which are free from defects from due to balance tensioning of

single yarns. Its main function is to make packages of required weight. Two processes are carried

simultaneously ie. clearing the yarn and providing a larger feed package. There are two sections-

right and left, both sections containing 60 spindles. Each package is wounded with two or three ends

according to the requirement of the ply of the yarn.

In assembly winding, no twist is provided to the yarn. Also, there is a proper sequence of threading

for proper winding. There is a sensor which senses the breakage of the yarn and lifts the package

from the rotating drum.

To hold and lift the package from rotating drum, there is spring liver mechanism.

The m/c has group drum winder (drum diameter of 90 mm and drum r.p.m of 300). The speed of

m/c is 300 m/min and weight of package formed is 1080 gm.

There were 6 assembly winding machines in OCM.

The yarn path is as follows

Two package ( single yarn )

Tensioner (disk type)

Stop motion (electronic)

Guide wheel

Thread guide

Drum winder

Package (parallel wound)

28

TWO FOR ONE TWISTER(TFO)

The yarn from the double package gets twisted like the roving in the speed frame. Then it comes out

from the central hole of the disk, moves below to come out of the outer hole to form a balloon and

gets twisted in a similar mode to that of ring spinning. Therefore for each rotation of the disk the

output yarn gets twisted. This type of twister not only gives higher production but also produce

superior quality of ply yarns with fewer knots due to larger package. For p/w t.p.m given is from

590-890 depending upon count, and spindle speed 8000-10000 also according to the count.

For woolen, t.p.m given is from 360-760, and spindle speed is 6000-7000 depending upon count.

The twist is imparted with the help of rotation of spindle on which the yarn is getting unwinded and

the drum speed with which the package is rotated. The motion is transferred through a pulley, belt

and gears. There are four gears,by changing these gears we can change the amount of twist.

There were 56 TFO machines in OCM.

To find the amount of twist:

T.P.M= Spindle speed / delivery per minute

The yarn path is

Package (Assembly Winding)

Hollow Spindle With Capsule Tensioner

Twister

Thread Guide

Roller Guide With Stop Motion

Tensioner

Traverse Guide

Package (Cheese)

29

Fig.1.8- Two for one twisting

MAR. 1

0

APR. 10

MAY.1

0

JUN.10

JUL.10

AUG.1

0

SEP.10

NOV.1

0

DEC.10

0100020003000400050006000700080009000

TFO PRODUCTION CHART

ACTUAL CONVT.

MONTHS

PR

OD

UC

TIO

N I

N K

GS

.

Fig 1.9- Graph showing production of plied yarn from TFO every month

STEAMING (AUTO CLAVE)

To set the twist and remove snarling, steaming is done to the yarn through auto calve. The package

are packed into perforated basket and entered into an auto clave. In autoclave, the yarns are

subjected to vacuum, then to steam and then twist is set as fibres get relaxed. The cycle is started

according to whether it has to be given a single cycle or repeat cycle. The choice of cycle depends

upon the amount of twist in the material. The high twist material requires to repeat cycle and the

material containing synthetic fibre can be set with a single steaming cycle only.

30

Some features of Autoclave machine are:

540 kg of yarn can be steamed at a time.

Steam moves inside out.

Temperature around 90 degree Celsius.

Fig1.10- Autoclave for steaming

Conditioning

After steaming, conditioning is done for about 4 hrs. For wool, around 24 hrs is spent on

conditioning.

Rewinding

It is done for removal of knots to avoid pin holes in the fabric which are form during finishing,

rewinding on paper cones or material that are not to be used in the mill.

S .No Machine Manufacturer No. of M/C Drums Speed

1. Assembly winding P.S Metler 6 720 300m/ min

2. T.F.O Leewha 53 7632 22-25m/min

3. Autoclave (steaming) Stafi 2 - -

4. Rewinding P.S Metler 4 480 450 m/min

Total capacity of post spinning department is 9 tonnes per day but they were able to get the output of

6 tons.

31

DYE HOUSE

Organizational structure

D.G.M ( Mr. S.K Pandey )

Sr. manager ( Mr. Kamaljit Bhardwaj ) Sr. manager ( Mr. Choudhary)

Asst Manager ( Mr. Rajeev Walsen ) Asst manager ( Mr.Chetan Kumar)

Tech Officer ( Mr. Pankaj Kumar) Tech officer ( Mr. Shukla)

Tech Superviser Yarn dyeing & lab incharge

( Mr. Ashok Kumar) (Mr. Balpreet Singh)

The dye house unit is a major operational unit in the company. The product is given its proper and

required shade in the dyeing house. The raw wool received as raw material is of white or natural

colour and dye house dyes the wool into the required shade according to the market demand and the

customer’s order. The product is dyed in dye house keeping in mind its composition and the quality.

In OCM 3 types of dyeing are done

1. Top Dyeing( Fiber form)

2. Yarn Dyeing( After yarn has been made)

3. Fabric Dyeing( After fabric has been made)

In OCM, dyeing is more concentrated on top dyeing. Approximately 85% of dyeing is top dyeing,

10% is yarn dyeing and 5% is fabric dyeing.

32

Process sequence for top dyeing

Tops Loading in machine

Rinsing

Addition of chemical through stock tank

Run for ten minutes

Addition of Dyes

Shade checking

Addition Rejected Passed

Draining

Soaping

Application of antistatic agent and neutralizer

Light shade Unloading Dark shade

Hydro Extractor Back washing

R.F Drier Top making

Defelting and top making

Dispatch

33

List of machines

Machines M/C Capacity No. Of M/C Manufacturer Liquor Capacity

HTHP 250 kg 4 Dalal Engg., India 2500

HTHP 200 kg 3 Dalal Engg., India 2000

HTHP 120 kg 1 Dalal Engg., India 1000

HTHP 100 kg 3 Dalal Engg., India 1000

HTHP 50 kg 2 Dalal Engg., India 750

HTHP 25 kg 2 Dalal Engg., India 250

HTHP 12 kg 1 Dalal Engg., India 170

HTHP 6 kg 1 Dalal Engg., India 100

Machines M/C Capacity No. Of M/C Manufacturer Speed

Beam dyeing 100 kg 2 Hindustan Engg.

Autoclave 100 kg Staffi

Jigger dyeing 130 kg 2 Calico India

Hydro extractor 250 kg 2 Mt. Textile Engg. 1500 rpm

Cheese Hydro

extractor

200 kg 1 Dettin Berta, Italy 1500 rpm

Backwasher - 1 Taylor wood UK

R.F dryer 850 KW 2 Stray field UK

Vigouean printing

m/c

600 kg 1 Prince smith UK

Dye method for different types of fibres

1. 100% Polyester Yarn/Tops/Fabric

Ammonium Sulphate( Buffer Soln) =2g/L

Satamol Ws ( Dispersing Agent) =0.5g/L

D.F.T (Leveling Agent) =0.5g/L

Cif (Wetting Agent) =0.1g/L

Acetic Acid ( Buffer Soln) =1g/L

Ph = 5.0

Temperature = 135 Deg

Time = 40 Min

34

Process for dyeing 100% Polyester

Polyester

50 degree celcius

Chemicals addition(10 min)

Dyes addition(10 min mixing) 3 deg/min(gradient)

95 deg celcius

1 deg/min

135 deg celcius(dyeing temperature)

After treatments

Soaping( unfix dye clearance)

Neutralize

Antistate(lubrication(SAPKO-1556))

Chemicals added

1.Ammonium sulphate

2.Acetic acid

3.Levelling agent- Lixatron DFT

4.Wetting agent- Lixatron CIR

35

10 min(light shade)

20 min(medium shade)

30 min(dark shade)

2. 100% Wool Yarn/Tops/Fabric

Sodium acetate( Buffer Soln) = 1.58g/L

Lixatson set( leveling Agent) =0.75g/L

Cir (Wetting Agent) =0.2g/L

Acetic Acid ( Buffer Soln) =1g/L

Ph = 4.5

Temperature = 98 Deg

Time = 40 Min

Process for dyeing 100% Wool

WOOL

40 degree celcius

Chemicals addition(10 min)

Dyes addition(10 min mixing) 1 deg/min(gradient)

70 deg celcius(hold for 10 minutes)

1 deg/min98 deg celcius(dyeing temperature)

After treatments

Soaping( unfix dye clearance)

Neutralize

Antistate(lubrication(SAPKO-1556))

36

10 min(light shade)

20 min(medium shade)

30 min(dark shade)

Dyes used for different materials

For wool For polyester

ISOLAN BLACK 2S SRGL DIANIK BROWN 6ISOLAN BROWN 2S-BL DIANIK NAVY S24ISOLAN YELLOW 2S-2GLN CORALENE YELLOW C4GHISOLAN DK BLUES2--GL CORALENE PINK RELISOLAN RED 2S-BKLANASYN YELLOW 2RLANASYN GREY GLANASYN BROWN GOILANASYN BLUE 5GLANASYN BLUE 2RLANASYN BLACK BLANACRON RED GIRGALON BLACK AMRTERASIL BLACK MAW

Different chemicals and their functions

Chemicals Function

Ammonium sulphate For buffer

Setamol W S/ Lixaton W S Dispersing Agent

Metaxil D F T/ Livaton D Ft Levelling Agent For Polyester

Cibaflow C I R Dearrating agent

Acetic acid For Ph

Sodium Hydro Sulphate Reduction Clearing Chemicals

Caustic Soda Alkali

Sivatol Detergent

Sapco 1556 W B Antistatic agent

Sodium Acetate For Ph in case of wool

Irglan HTV Wool protecting agent

Unipol FBSE Leveling agent

There was a testing lab in which samples were tested and also different shades were made by doing

experiments(as required by design department). Liquor ratio used in dyeing was 1:10,but in testing

lab, it was 1:20.

37

Process for dyeing Poly/Wool blends

The process for polywool blends is same of that of wool but there are some extra chemicals added to

the solution. They are-

1.Carrier- it helps to reduce the temperature of exhaustion from 135 deg celcius to 115 deg celcius.

2.Wool protector- wool generally gets damaged at 98 deg celcius, but by wool protector the wool is

not damaged till 120 deg celcius.

3. T/W Blended Fabric/Yarn

Sodium acetate( Buffer Soln) = 1.5g/L

Setamol ws ( Dispersing Agent) =0.5g/L

DFT ( leveling Agent) =0.5g/L

Lixaton set ( leveling Agent) =0.1g/L

Cir (Wetting Agent) =0.2g/L

TCI ( carrier agent) =1.0g/L

Acetic Acid ( Buffer Soln) =1g/L

Ph = 4.5

Temperature = 120 Deg

Time = 30 Min

Process for dyeing T/W Blended Fabric/Yarn

Process starts at 50 deg. The heat to the material is then ascended by 1 deg/ minute till 85 degrees.

This is then holded at the same temperature for 10 minutes. The heat is further increased by 1 deg/

min till 120 degrees. The material is further kept at the same temperature for 30 minutes. Further the

material is cooled by 5 deg/ min.

HTHP Machines

This machine is used both for fiber and yarn dyeing. It consists of stock tank, dye addition and main

dye vessel, which is a cylinder with domed ends, upper being lid, securely locked by sliding ring.

The lid is raised by pneumatically operated cylinder at the back of machine. The pump is fitted

immediately below the main vessel. There are two pumps,one is turbo pump, and other is injector

pump. Turbo pump is used to transfer water, chemicals, and dyes from stock tank to main dye vessel

and is responsible for in to out and out in motion of liquor during dyeing. Injector pump is used to

transfer the liquor from dye addition to main dye vessel. The stock tank is provided with a stirrer.

Water in let and drain valve are provided in the stock tank and main dye vessel.

38

Processes while dyeing in HTHP machine

Loading

Water in take

Rise in temperature

Addition of chemicals

Holding

Addition of colors

Colors transfer to main vat

Rise in temperature

Holding

Sample checking

Rise in temperature

Cooling

Drain

Washing

Rinsing

Addition of antistatic agent

Unloading

39

Fig.1.11- Dalal HTHP dyeing machine

Hydro extractor

After the dyeing process is completed, the material contains some amount of water. To remove this

water from the material, we use hydro extractor. The principle of centrifugal force to push the water

out of the material through a perforated cylinder is applied on this machine. The perforated cylinder

is continuously rotated with the help of motor and belt. The centrifugal force acting outwards force

the water out through a perforated surface while this water is being carried out by the outlets in the

external cylinders in which the perforated cylinders rotate. There are two hydro extractors for tops

and one for cones of yarns. While using these machines, following things should be kept in mind:

Wool tops and polyester tops should be loaded separately.

Different shade tops are loaded separately

After drying the material from the hydro extractor the material is still left with 20% to 30% moisture

in it.

Fig.1.12- Hydro extractor

40

Specifications of hydro extractor used for drying tops

Capacity 250 kgs

Wool tops that can be loaded 10

Polyester tops that can be loaded 20

Duration 30 min

Speed 700 rpm

Basket diameter 60 inch

Basket height 20 inch

Motor 15 hp

In every two months, following list is checked for hydro extractor -

V belts for proper tension and condition. Clutch of machine Limit switches. Any abnormal sound and vibration of machine. Lubrication of moving parts.

Radio Frequency Dryer (R.F DRYER)

It is used to remove the left over moisture (after hydro extractor) from the material being dyed.

Generally, the non metabolic substances undergo a rise in temperature when subjected to high

frequency electromagnetic circuits. Each time the polarity of the field is changed, the polarity of the

molecules is changed. This constant molecular movement causes friction, which in turn leads to rise

in temperature.

During the R.F heating process, the product passes through an electrode system and therefore

becomes powerful RF voltage of a frequency of 27.12 MHz. The molecules of ionic substance such

as water readily realign themselves with very high frequency e.m.f and becomes heated very rapidly.

This process on the other hand does not affect non-ionic substance. There are two fans provided for

removal of the moist air.

Components of RF dryer

RF dryer consists of belt which is used to carry the material at the adjusted speed, like 6

m/hr for wool, 7m/hr for yarn, and 12m/hr for polyester.

RF field produced by lower & upper electrodes, which are connect to tank directly.

Suction system for sucking the water vapors, which evaporate from the material being

dried.

41

Coolers which are used for cooling the water, which is circulated round the triode valve to

keep it cool and get heated in turn.

Fig.1.13- RF dryer

Specifications of RF dryer

R F Power 15 KwFrequency 27.12 MHzConversion Efficiency 70% - 75%Unit Cooling Forced Air CooledElectrical Supply 410V 3ph 50Hz Electrical Power 26 kW MaxModular Conveyor 800 mm wide

Back Washing Machine

The back washing machine is used to remove the excessive dye from the surface of the fibres ( in

case of dark shades only) and also to provide anti stat oil to the fibre to privilege their processing in

the spinning department. It consists of three chambers-

1st chamber contains soaping solution to remove excessive dye.

2nd chamber contains acetic acid to keep the pH in the range of 4-5.

3rd chamber contains the tops are squeezed with the help of the squeezing rollers. The pressure of the

roller varies accordingly to the number of tops in the sheet.

After passing through the third chamber, the sheets of fibre is led through the dyeing chamber where

the fibres are being dried and thus made ready for further processing.

42

Fig.1.14- Back washing

Chemicals used and their functions

Silvatol Soap

Sapco 1556 Oil for wool

Cresmar RFA Oil for polyester

Acetic acid To remove superfluous

Eripsan OS Soap

Polyester tops

Bath number Chemical Quantity kg/hr Temperature(deg)

1. Eriopon O.S and soda ash 2.0 and 0.5 70

2. Acetic acid 1.0 30

3. Crimsor 1.5 50

For wool tops

Bath number Chemical Quantity kg/hr Temperature(deg)

1. Silvatol and soda ash 2.0 and 0.5 50

2. Acetic acid 0.5 30

3. Sapco 1556 2.0 50

Vigoureaux printing machine

This machine gives a hinting effect to the tops being processed after they have been passed through

the back washing or also for gray fibers. Two engraved rollers having inclined engraved lines on

their surfaces produce the effect. The printing paste is provided to these rollers through intermediate

rollers covered with felt, which gets ink from a rubber-coated roller immersed in the printing paste.

In this machine 6 to 8 tops are fed from the back end of the machine and they are passed through

drafting rollers having draft set accordingly. After this printing takes place the tops sheet are

collected in the drums and send for steaming.

43

Through this machine various effects are generated on the fibers that in turn give very nice

appearances on the fabric. Capacity of this machine is 600 kgs per shift.

Preparation of the paste-

There are 2 stock tank in which the printing paste is prepared. It consists of stirrer, water is fed to the

stock tank and then the dyes and auxillaries are also fed into it and stirred for 1 hr with help of

stirrer. The temperature is kept at 60 degree.

Chemicals used for making paste1. Urea

2. Lyogen V

3. Calsoline Oil

4. Defoamer

5. Acetic acid

6. Citric acid

7. Dye

The machine consists of

Two engraved rollers having engraved lines on them opposite to each other.

Two furnishing roller which gives colour to the engraved rollers.

Bowl in which printing paste is provided.

Gilling elements which makes the top uniform.

Draft rollers, Conveyor chain and Guide rollers

Steamer

Steamer is used to fix dye after printing on wool. 12 kg of wool can be fed at a time. Cages are first

loaded into chamber and then the door is closed and locked automatically. Then the air from inside

the chamber is removed with the help of pump. Then steam is supplied to the chamber. After 1 hour

the pressure is released and cages are removed. Dark shades are processed for 2 hours. Temperature

inside the chamber is kept around 100 degree. After steaming the slivers are sent to back washing

for washing. Total time for this process is 95 mins.

Division of time is as follows:

Operation Time taken

Vacuum creation 5 min

Rise in temperature 10 min

Steaming 60 min

Steam release 5 min

Cooling 15 min

44

Defeltor section

The fibers during dyeing get entangled. Therefore to parallelize and make a new compact top, so

that there is no much problem in further processing, tops are sent to defeltor section which has 5

defeltor machines. Maximum 12 slivers can be fed to a machine but the actual numbers which is

used to feed is from 6 to 8. In these machines, fibres are separated from each other and slivers are

converted to tops. The draft is set from 6 to 8 according to the requirement and the linear weight

required in final top’s sliver. Capacity of machine is 600 kg per shift.

Fabric dyeing

Fabric dyeing department is near the finishing department so that the fabric after dyeing can be

easily taken from dyeing to the finishing department. The explanation of the fabric dyeing machines

is as follows.

Jet dyeing machine

It is a high temperature and high pressure machine and is mainly used for dyeing polyester portion

present in the blended fabrics.

Process sequence

Loading of fabric

Washing at room temperature for 10 min

Temperature is raised to 60 degrees

Run for 5 mins color addition

Temperature is raised to 130 degree

Hold for 30 minutes

Cool to 60 degree

Drain

Washing for 5 minutes

Unloading

In this machine, liquor moves and carries cloth with it i.e. both fabric and liquor move. The machine

consists of a dye vessel which can be pressurized. A jet is provided in the main dye vessel, which

helps in movement of fabric. A material roll is provided which lifts the fabric from the bottom of

dye vessel and feeds to the jet. There are two pumps, one is turbo pump and other is injector pump. 45

One filter is provided which removes the fibers from the dye liquor. Liquor is heated by the heat

exchanger. Addition tank is provided in which dyes and chemicals are present in dissolved state.

Injector pump is used to transfer liquor from addition tank to dye vessel while turbo pump supplies

liquor to the jet. The material to liquor ratio is 1:9, jet pressure is kept 1.2 kg/cm square. Capacity of

machine is 250 kg.

Chemicals used

Chemicals Quantity Temperature

Sodium acetate 1.5 g/l 40

Acetic acid Ph 4.5 40

Uniperol FBSE 0.5 to 0.75% 40

Nirosol Scm 0.75-1% 40

Defoamer 0.3 g/l 40

Merapan HTW 3-4% 40

Cibaflow CIR 4.0 g/l 40

Beam dyeing machine

Beam dyeing is used for dyeing polywool and all wool fabrics. In this machine, fabric remains

stationary while liquor flow through the fabric. The pressure vessel has a circular cross section. At

the center back of machine is the dye liquor inlet, feeding directly into the barrel of perforated beam

and at back of the shell, just below the center is dye liquor outlet to the pump. Two rails running the

full length of the vessel are mounted at the side about quarter of the way above the bottom; these

rails support the weight of the rolls and accompanying cradle during dyeing operation. The doors

surround at the front of machine is fitted with rubber seal and ring locking device securely locks the

door.

Beam is made of stainless steel and is fixed at both ends on the batching machine. First a grey cotton

cloth is wrapped on the beam then material to be dyed is wetted and then wrapped on the machine.

After this another layer of grey cotton is given which acts as support for the batch.

After the batch is ready the beam is loaded in the machine. The basic equipment for beam winding

consists of mechanisms to rotate the beam and good delivery system, which will allow the fabric to

be wounded on the beam without forming the creases.

46

Process sequence

Loading of beam

Washing at room temperature for 10 min

Addition of chemicals(acetic acid and lyogen DFT)

Addition of dye at 50 degree

Heat the dye bath up to 70 degree

Hold for 15 minutes for light shades

For dark shades-35 to 40 mins

Drain the color at 130 degree celcius

Washing

Drain washing liquor

Unloading the beam

47

Color Matching Procedures

Definitions-

Component- The name used for a dye top. Each component has an established standard for color.

Finished blend- The name used for the blended top. A finished blend has an established standard

for color.

Lot- The name used for a manufacturing order.

Component dyeing-

For each component, a standard dye formula is maintained.

For every component dye lot, samples of sliver are taken after backwashing and pinning.

These samples are taken throughout the lot and are kept until all of the lot is consumed.

For each wool component lot, pads are made and color readings are compared to the stored

standard and assessed to determine if they are good enough to use.

For each polyester component lot, sliver is used for color readings that are compared to the

stored standard and assessed to determine if they are good enough to use.

A dye formula is modified if it is determined that the shade has drifted.

Top blending-

Planning system issues production order with a ssuggested make up specifying by mix,

component, and lot. Initial working pads are made from this.

The working lot pad is read and plotted versus the stored standard.

Using both the spectrophotometric data and visual assessment, a decision is made whether to

approve the working lot pad or to change the make up in order to move the color into an

acceptable shade.

After shade approval, instructions are sent to planning to specify by mix, component and lot

which items to use in the Finished Blend lot.

Planning issues the blend instructions to Blend Prep.

Blend Prep creels the blender as specified and informs the color control technician that the

lot is ready for review.

The color control technician verifies that the lot is creeled properly and releases it for

production. Samples are collected and new pads are made and checked for shade before the

lot is released for production.

For larger lots, a sample is collected every eight hours and a pad is made and checked for

shade. This is a precaution to ensure that the shade has not drifted while the lot is running.

48

Finishing:

Top to finish lot purity

When establishing the initial finished fabric standard, it should maintain a pure dyed top lot

through yarn, weave, and finishing so that top standard and finished fabric standard are of

the same base.

After standard established, its ok to mix dye lots in other processes.

Finish process when establishing standard

Establish routing on finished fabric standard.

Take swatches at critical process points( example- after scouring, before chemical

treatments).

Maintain good process control.

Review machine status for a midpoint control.(for example- KD blankets should not be new

or old which will affect shade- it should be average life.

Establish standard

Shade area to maintain master shade swatch, extra yardage from same piece and swatch for

customer.

Print spectrophotometer absolute values as per permanent reference.

Shade control during production

Include a fabric routing step to check shade before any critical or irreversible processes.

Develop run card for these areas if necessary( example check shade before chemical

repellent treatments, if repellant is non removable then must use a run card and develop a "

before treatment " standard).

If order requires customer approval for each piece, the pieces must bee placed in a " hold"

status to avoid shipping until approved.

49

0

0.05

0.1

0.15

0.2

0.25

MONTHLY DEFECTIVE OF DYEING

MONTH

DE

FE

CT

IVE

%

Fig.1.15- Graph showing percentage defectives in dyeing every month

OCT.09

NOV.09

DEC.09

JAN.10

FEB.10

MAR.10

APR.10

MAY.10

JUN.10

JUL.10

AUG.10

SEP.100

1000

2000

3000

4000

5000

6000

7000

AVG. MONTHLY PRODUCTION OF DYEING

MONTH

PR

OD

UC

TIO

N I

N K

GS

.

Fig.1.16- Graph showing production of dyed yarn every month

50

Weaving

Organization chart of weaving

General manager( Mr J.P.S Rana)

Manager(Mr.R.P Singh)

Chandan Singh Pramod Shrama V.K Ram V.K Sehgal(Technical off.) (Shift incharge) (Asst.manager) (Tech.off)

Weaving section is responsible for the conversion of yarns to the fabric.

Weaving consists of three sections :

Preparatory section

Loom shed

Greasy perch inspection

In ocm, the weaving department consists of 171 machines which are in working condition.

S.no Machine name Speed in rpm

Numberof machines

Production

1. Warping no.1 500 1 3 warps of 600 m per shift

2. Warping no.2 250 1 2 warps of 500 m per shift3. Warping no.3 500 1 3 warps of 600 m per shift4. Warping no.4 500 1 3 warps of 600 m per shift5. Warping no.5 360 1 3 warps of 600 m per shift6. Knotting machine 400 2 16000ends knotted/shift/machine7. Dornier loom(rigid

rapier)280 60 2560 mtrs/shift at 75%efficiency, ppi-

608. Dornier loom(rapier) 240 42 1535 mtrs/shift at 75%efficiency, ppi-

609. Dornier loom( rapier) 180 8 220 mtrs/shift at 75%efficiency, ppi-6010. Winding machine 300 2 270 kgs of bits/ shift at 50% efficiency11. Sulzer projectile loom 250 16 610 mtrs/shift at 75%efficiency, ppi-6012. Picanol(flexible rapier)

loom360 32 1755 mtrs/shift at 75%efficiency, ppi-

6013. Htvs dornier (rigid

rapier)360 4 220 mtrs/shift at 75%efficiency, ppi-60

51

Process sequence

Warping

Beaming

Weaving

Greasy Perch Inspection

Warping

The weaving process starts with warping. In this section, the warp ends are being wrapped around

the beam which are then put on to the machine.

A warping plan is provided to the weaving department with a master card in which all the

instructions regarding the weaving process are given. The wrapper makes seating according to this

plan on the warping machine and by doing the required calculations. While doing setting he

considers the parameter of the reed width, warp length and according to that sectional width is

decided.

Creeling

It is a process of mounting a large number of wound packages onto a unit known as a creel. In OCM

truck creels are used. In this type of creel the yarn packages are placed on spindles of truck in a

preparation area. A number of trucks are required per creel.

At the time of a run, the yarn of each end is broken between the package and the guide and the

trucks are wheeled out from the center of the creel to be replaced by the preloaded trucks.

It is then necessary to tie the yarn from each new package to its corresponding end in the creel.

Each thread is then drawn forward to the front of the creel in a strictly controlled order, which

ensures that there is no crossing of the threads. At the front of each horizontal row of packages, on

one side of the creel there is a row of guides where each thread passes under a trip wire.

If a thread breaks during the course of processing, this wire falls to make an electrical contact and

stop the machine before the broken thread becomes lost under subsequent ends of the yarn on the

beam. A light at the end of the relevant guide bar is illuminated in order to direct the operative to the

source of the broken thread.

Sectional Warping

As wool does not requires any sizing because of its high strength and the need for producing

complicated patterns has resulted in the formation of sectional warping in place of high speed

beaming.

52

This is a two stage process. In the first stage yarn end from the creel is taken to the mill via a

condensing rollers where they coverage into a single sheet, leasing rods for locating the broken

ends, adjustable reed to set the width of a warp sheet to the exact distance between the flanges of the

beam.

The sheet of the yarn is placed on a horizontal beam in sections. Each section contains a fraction of

the number of ends required in the final sheet.

If a pattern is involved the order of the ends in each section is arranged to a similar so that in any

circumstance that the amount of re-creeling between section is minimal. The length of yarn wound

per section is sufficient for one weaver’s beam only. Each section is inclined to the vertical with first

section resting on incline at the end of the mill. This ensures that the threads do not fall off the top

outside edge of the section to become buried under the ends of the next section build-up. When all

the section have been wound on the drum the second stage of the process can take place. This

involves the sheet being pulled of the drum and on to a beam during which time the mill transverse

in the opposite direction and the same rate as that moved in the first stage. It is the transfer of warp

sheet from drum to weaver beam. It requires about half an hour, while beaming two pressure rollers,

which are spring loaded remains in contact with the beam to form compact beam.

Fig.1.17- Diagram of warping mechanism

There are four warping machines in the ocm mill:

Benninger warping machine- There are two of its kind. These machines are made in

Germany and has maximum rpm of 800 and maximum creel capacity of 400 ends.

Salafost warping machine- This machine is from Switzerland and has creel capacity of

348 ends.

Robatex warping machine- This machine is from Ahmedabad and has creel capacity of

504 ends.

The beam speed is kept between 100 to 150 rpm.

53

DRAWING-IN

In weaving the process of threading warp ends through the eyes of the healds and the dents of the

reed. The warp yarn required passing through the heald eyes in order to form the shed, it is not

possible that the loom may stopped to draw the ends. To save the time for production, the operation

of drawing-in carried out separately. This operation includes the passing of ends through drop wire,

heald eyes and dents of reed.

TYEING-IN

In case of bulk production and the new quality having the same denting and drafting as previous

one to save the time for production the operation of tying-in is done. If every end is tied to its

corresponding end on the old beam, the drawing-in process can be omitted. The tying operation is

done with the portable tying machine.

For every warping machine there is a separate calculation device for doing setting in the machine.

Total number of ends = reed count x reed width x ends per inch

Feed ratio = according to gears( set according to length of roll required)

After feeding these values, the computer will give the cone height.

After feeding the yarn length, computer will give number of rounds that we need for that

length.

To find the total number of section that will be on the beam

Number of section = total number of ends/ creel.

Section width = reed width/ number of section.

To check the section width, there is a V reed.

After warping is over, beams are taken for drafting. According to the plan, ends are passed through

different heald shafts and then the denting is done accordingly.

0

100000

200000

300000

400000

500000

WARPING PRODUCTION

MONTH

ME

TE

RS

Fig.1.18- Graph showing production in warping department every month

54

JAN.10

FEB.10

MAR.10

APR.10

MAY.10

JUN.10

JUL.10

AUG.100

0.51

1.52

2.53

3.54

4.5

TOTAL DEFECTIVE

MONTH

PE

RC

EN

TA

GE

Fig.1.19- Graph showing percentage defectives in warping every month

WEAVING

After denting, the beams with warp ends are taken for weaving where by movement of heald shafts,

the fabric is formed by interlacement of yarns according to the lifting plan cut on the dobby cards.

The main working principle of these machines is that their each process of shedding, picking, beat-

up set according to the degree of rotation to the main shaft. If not done then there is much more

chances of damages of loom and fabric.

In the loom, the weaver’s beam is placed at the back. Yarn ends from this beam are passed

simultaneously through drop wires through the heald eye of the heald frame, dents of the reed to the

fall of the cloth. The number of heald frames depends upon the weave and the passage of each warp

threads through the heald eye depends up on the drafting plan. These heald frames move up and

down to form a shed through which a weft yarn is passed across. Weft insertion is done through

different mechanisms like rapier, projectile, shuttle etc. the required length of the yarn is wounded

onto a weft accumulator. The inserted weft yarn is cut from the entry side and push to the fell of the

cloth by the reed. Then the tucking device in the next shade tucks in both sides. All the weft yarns

are inserted through the same side of the m/c.

The temples at the fell hold the woven cloth to prevent any weft wise contraction. The woven cloth

is held tight by the tensioner rollers and is wound on to the cloth roll. The denting plans and the reed

density dictates the e.p.i and the length of the cloth wound after each insertion cycle dictates the

p.p.i.

55

Fig.1.20- Loom warp passage

Loom warp passage

1. Warp beam

2. Warp sheet

3. Back rest roll

4. Feeler roll

5. Warp stop motion

6. Heald frames

7. Reed

8. front rest

9. Press roll (sand roll)

10. Guide rod

11. Take up roll

Fig.1.21- Weaving

56

Calculations

Weight of warp = Ends per inch x reed width x length/count x 1000.

Weight of weft = Picks per inch x reed width/ count x 1000.

Weight per metre square = weight of fabric/ length x width

Denting plan = number of ends per inch/ dents per inch

Fig.1.22- Fabric being weaved(selvedge yarn roll on right side)

Type of loom Number of machines Speed (rpm)

Dornier(Rigid Rapier) 110 240,280,320

Sulzier(Projectile) 16 200 to 300

Picanol(Flexible Rapier) 32 400 to 425

Dornier HVT( Rigid Rapier) 4 400 to 425

These machines have jacquard of 56,40 hooks which are 32 in number and all machines have dobby

attached to them. These dobby have 20 to 28 shafts.

All above mentioned machines have six different wefts carrying capacity. There are different

needles for their weft, which come down according to the needle plan cut on the dobby cards.

Length of beams of different looms is as follows:

Looms Beam length

Picanol 2700 mm

Sulzier 2600 mm

Dornier 2900 mm and 2700 mm

57

Weaving mechanism-

There are three main motion of weaving. These are primary, secondary and auxiliary motion.

Primary motion

Every looms requires three primary motion to produce a woven fabric. These motions are Shedding,

Picking and beating.

Shedding - Shedding is the name given to the motion, which moves heald frame up and

down in order to separate the warp sheet into two layers and form the shed in which weft

yarn is passed.

Picking - Picking is the second primary motion in which weft yarn is passed through the

shed. This is known as picking.

Beating-up - Beating up is where the reed, mounted in a reciprocating sley, pushes the weft

into the fell of the cloth to form fabric. This requires considerable force, hence the term

beating-up. The crankshaft of the loom is responsible for the beat-up action which must take

place after each weft insertion and so it will make one revolution per pick inserted.

Secondary motions

There are two secondary motions in weaving namely let-off and take-up.

Let-off - The let-off motions ensure that the warp ends are controlled at the optimum tension

for the fabric that that is being woven.

Take-up - The cloth take-up motions withdraw cloth from the fell and then collect it at the

front of the loom.

Auxiliary motions

Auxiliary motions are warp stop motion, warp protector, weft stop motions and weft replenishment.

Warp stop motion - Warp stop motions halt the loom when a drop wire falls as a result of

end breakage.

Warp protector motion - Warp protector motions stop the loom before beat-up in the event

of projectile falling to complete its traverse from one side of the loom to the other side.

Weft stop motion - Weft stop motion halts the loom in the event of a break in the weft yarn.

Weft replenishment - Weft replenishment ensures a continuous supply of weft yarn to the

loom whenever a supply package becomes exhausted.

58

Rapier Loom

In the rapier loom there are two rapiers to insert the weft yarns. One rapier feed the filling yarns half

way through the shade of the warp yarn to the arm of the other side, which reaches in and takes it

across the rest of the way. In OCM, there are both rigid and flexible rapier machines. There are 110

Dornier machines which are all rigid rapier machines. The width of these machines is 210 cms and

speed is 240 to 280 picks per minute.

There are 32 Picanol machines, which have speed of 400 picks per minute. These machines have

width of 220 cms. they use flexible rapier in them. They are all electromagnetically controlled.

Working of Picanol is similar to that of Dornier but efficiency of Picanol is better.

There are four machines of Dornier HVT, which have width of 210 cms. These are also rigid rapier

kind but these are electronically controlled. HVT and Picanol machines have automatic accumulator

attached to them for providing weft ends at proper tension. In this machines no cut cards are used

but all designs are fed through control panel screen and all other settings are done electronically.

Fig.1.23- Rapier loom

Projectile Loom

In the projectile loom weft yarn are carried by the projectile through one side to the other side. The

path of the projectile is governed by a continuously moving chain conveyor.

The picking and projectile receiving units are separated from the moving sley. The sley (projectile

track) carries the reed and gripper guides. The gripper projectile, made of fine steel, 90 mm long 14

mm wide and 6 mm thickness (3.5 in x 0.55 in x 0.14 in) weighs 40g (1.33 oz). It carries the weft

thread into the warp shed. The weft is drawn directly from a large, stationary cross wound package.

There is no weft winding. The gripper projectile is picked across the warp shed at very high speed,

the picking energy being derived from the energy stored in a metal torsion bar which is twisted at

predetermined amount and released to give the projectile a high rate of acceleration.

59

Picking always takes place from one side, but several projectiles are employed and all of them return

to the picking side by a conveyor chain located underneath the warp shed. During every flight

through the shed the projectile runs in a rake like steel guides, so that the warp threads are touched

neither by the projectile nor weft thread.

Every pick is cut off at the picking side near the selvedge after weft insertion, leaving a length about

15 mm from the edge. Similar length of weft also projects from the selvedge on the receiving side.

The reed is not reciprocated as in shuttle loom, but rocked about its axis by a pair of cams. The sley

which carries the reed and projectile guides, is moved forward and backward through a saddle

carrying two follower bowls which bear against the surface of two matched cams. Whenever the

reed width is reduced for weaving a small width cloth from the standard reed width, the projectile

receiving unit is moved inward on the telescopic shaft, to the new selvedge position, and so the

projectile travel distance is reduced.

There are 16 machines of Suzlier company which work on projectiles. These machines have width

of 220 cms and speed of 300 picks per minute. There are 11 projectiles in a machine.

WEAVING CALCULATIONS

Total No. of ends = EPI X reed space (in inches)

Weight of warp = EPI X reed space X cloth length (1+crimp%) in yards

840 X Ne X 2.2

Weight of weft = PPI X cloth length in yards X reed space (1+crimp%)

840 X Ne X 2.2

Loom efficiency = Actual production X 100

Calculated production

Again loom efficiency = Actual running time X 100

Actual running time + Stopped time

PRODUCTION CALCULATION-

Production per shift (In meters) = RPM X 60 X 8 X efficiency

PPI X 39.37

Production per shift (In yards) = RPM X 60 X 8 X efficiency

PPI X 36

60

Greasy Perch Inspection

After weaving each cloth goes for greasy perch inspection. This department various defects are

inspected, occurring due to fault machines or improper work practices. Defect report is continuously

delivered to the weaving department Technologist so that immediate action could be taken so as to

correct the defects occurring in the grey cloth. Greasy stain removal is done during inspection, by

spraying a solvent (e.g. carbon tetra chloride on stain spots). After greasy perch inspection the fabric

is forwarded to mending, where they are seen for these defects.

The defects in fabric after weaving:

Wrong draft

Stain

Missing pick

Missing end

Temple cuts

Float

Floating ends

Thin places

Damage

Start up mark

Reed marks

Broken pick

MENDING

Mending section corrects any kind of defects in the fabric. No specialized machines are used for this

job work. There are menders and workers in the mending section who remove the defects. Mending

capacity is 12000 meters per day, but if defects are large in number, then the output reduces even up

to 5000 meters.

Fig.1.24- Mender in

operation

61

The fabric from greasy perch is checked on the perches and the defects are removed. On the perch

table and mending table defects like missing pick, missing end, bunches and knots are corrected.

Float, damage, temple cut and wrong draft cannot be mended. The tools used for mending are-

Forceps- It is used to pick out and hold threads for mending.

Erasers- It is used to straighten out pulled or tight threads in the fabric.

Needles- It is used to repair defects such as missing end, missing pick where filling id done

according to the design of the fabric.

Fig.1.25- Operator mending with a

needle

When the fabric is brought to the mending department it has to be mended and checked for defects

within 4 hours and then has to be sent to the finishing department. Fabric is brought to the

department for the weaving department after every shift.

In the mending tables there are two tube lights overhead the worker and two tube lights underneath

the mending table.

After mending, perching is done to see whether all the defects in the fabric have been properly

checked and mended by the mending department.

The perches have two tube lights underneath the glass panel and two tube lights overhead the

worker.

Number of menders in OCM are : 65

Number of women workers :30

Number of inspectors: 6

Number of mending tables : 75

Number of perch tables : 9

62

FINISHING

Organizational chart

G.M Finishing ( Mr. Ashok Handa)

Sr. Manager ( Mr. P.J Bhardwaj)

Shift A General Shift Shift B

Asst Manager( Mr. Mohan Lal) Asst manager(Mr.Sukhbir singh)

Tech Officer ( Mr. Nirmal Singh) Tech Officer ( Mr. Ashwini Kumar)

Asst. Manager ( Mr. Sanjay Joshi)

Asst. Manager (Mr. Vishal Kapali)

Supervisor ( Mr. Suresh Kumar) Finishing is an important process which is essential for the final appearance and the handle of the

fabric. The choice and sequence of the finishing process depends up on the type of the material.

Main purpose of finishing department is to provide luster to the fabric and give permanent shrinkage

to the fabric so that the customers don’t complain about shrinkage of fabric after washing.

In OCM, the finishing department was divided into two sections- Wet finishing and Dry finishing.

63

The machines used in this department (in order of the material processing) are-

S. No Machine Manufacturer No. Of M/C

1 Singeing Oshtoff, Italy 1

2 Vulco Crab MAT 1

3 Scouring/ milling Zonco,

MAT

Hemmer

France & lodge huddersfield

Scour mat

7

4 Jigger France & lodge huddersfield 2

5 Stenter Harish textli engg.

Hirano kiazoka Company ltd

1

1

6 Cropping & shearing Rollen wieder 2

7 Decasting Dalal 1

8 Kier decasting Biella shrunk process, Italy 2

9 Rotary press Corino, Mario crosta 1

10 Paper press Arthur heaton & Co. Ltd. 2

11 Super finish Hemmer 1

12 Conti blow Speroptio Rimar, Italy 1

64

Process sequence in finishing department

Greasy woven

Mending

Lot preparation

Polywool (PD) Polywool (PD) All-Wool

Scouring Singing Pre setting

Hydro-Extraction Scouring Scouring Drying Hydro-Extraction Hydro-Extraction

Heat Setting Drying Drying

Checking & offered to D/H Heat Setting S.F.M

DyeingS.F.M

Dry

Checking

S.F.M

Singeing

Scouring

Hydro

Dry Cropping CroppingOpen Blow

Paper Press Rotary Blow Rotary

K.D K.D Paper Press K.D

K.D

S.F C.B S.F C.B S.F C.B S.F C.B

65

WET FINISHING SECTION

CRABBING

Crabbing is the setting process of wool. It helps in bringing dimensional stability to the fabric and

eliminates distortions like crocking and uneven shrinkage.

To set the cloth and the yarn twist permanently, wool fabric is passed over several cylinders that

rotate in hot water and is then immersed quickly in cold water.

The cloth is held firmly and tightly to avoid wrinkling

Repetition of the treatment with increased pressure results in setting of the cloth and the finish

Effective crabbing depends on

Tension(it should be uniform)

Duration of treatment

Composition of crabbing liquor(no alkali should be added)

Temperature( it must be constant)

Ph of the crabbing liquor.(should be maintained at 7)

VULCO CRAB MACHINE

Vulco-Crab is a wet fixing machine - crabbing – suitable for pure wool and wool-blended fabrics

(clear finished or raised). The patented working principle is based on the idea of “direct pressure”

exercised by 7 pressure rollers individually pushed by two hydraulic cylinders against a heated drum

around which the fabric passes together with a special impermeable silicone technical belt. With this

solution the fabric undergoes through a high pressing effect with a sequence of strong crushing (over

50 Kg/cm2), such an action is developed with the fabric heated over 100°C in an environment

saturated with steam.

In fact part of the water contained in the fabric is transformed into steam when it comes in contact

with the heated surface of the central effect drum, while the impermeability of the technical belt

keeps the generated steam in contact with the fabric. These are the ideal conditions to guarantee a

good fixing phenomenon - setting, where the chemical ties of the wool fibres are stabilized giving a

“ flat memory” effect to the fabric. Immediately after, a quick cooling of the fabric on the discharge

part of the plant through the immersion in cold water, or as an alternative, through forced air

circulation around a perforated drum, optimizes the process. The stabilization of the fabric obtained

in this way is useful to prevent defects (creases or marks) during the following operations of dyeing,

washing or milling.

Heat, Humidity and Mechanical Pressure66

These 3 components skilfully combined are the “secret” for a good setting action.

Heat: The central drum and the belt are heated up to 180°C, by consequence the fabric reaches a

temperature well above 100°C.

Humidity: The contact in between the wet fabric and the central drum hot surface creates a self-

generated steam which is kept in contact with the fabric thanks to the impermeable endless belt.

Mechanical Pressure: 7 pressing rollers pushed by hydraulic pistons, placed around the central

heated drum, exert a strong flattening action on the fabric.

The maximum effective pressure on the fabric is above 50 Kg/cm2, in fact the load of 6.000 Kg is

distributed on a limited linear area 0,5 wide and 200 cm long.

Fig.1.26- Vulco crab machine

Working speed 35 m/min

Maximun fabric width 1.900 mm

Belt width 2 .100 mm

Steam supply pipe 3 bar

Steam consumption 2 0 Kg/h

Compressed air supply 7- 8 bar

Compressed air consumption 60 nl/min

Water consumption 2 0 ± 60 l/h

Diameter of Main cylinder 900 mm

Pressure cylinders 2 15 mm

Installed power 3 5 Kw

Absorbed power 2 5 Kw

SINGEING

67

In Singeing, the protruding fibres(loose hairs) are removed from the surface of the cloth, there by

giving it a smooth, even and clean look, also reducing the pilling in the fabric.

The cloth to be singed is passed over brushing roller so that the protruding fibres are away from the

surface of the cloth. During brushing some of the loose fibres get removed. The fabric is passed over

two burners. These two burner are supplied with LPG gas. The fabric path is arranged in such a way

that both the surface are singed in a single pass. An exhaust chamber is provided over each burner

slot and is connected to an exhaust fan.. the products of combustion are led into exhaust and taken

away from the machine. All wool fibres are not singed because when the protein fibres burns hard,

black residue is produced, which is difficult to remove. There were 2 operators to operate the

machine per shift. The polywool fabrics are given two rounds.

Machine- Oshtoff singeing machine, Italy.

Set temperature-110 deg Celsius

Speed- 90 meters per min.

Burners- LPG gas.

Fig.1.27- Oshtoff singeing machine

SCOURING

Scouring is a process in which we remove the natural impurities, dirt, greasy spots (from loom ) etc.

These impurities interfere with subsequent finishing process, therefore scouring is must. There are

some impurities which are not removed by scouring process. Therefore a special scouring process is

carried out in which the material is first padded with special scouring chemicals on jigger and batch

is left over night. After this process, normal scouring is carried out on the dolly rotary machine.

Composition of scouring liquor is governed by nature of oil which has to be removed. Scouring

chemicals are generally acetic acid and soda ash.

68

Hemmer machine

This machine is used for both scouring and milling of the fabric. Both length milling and width

milling can be done in this machine. It consists of two pairs of top rollers and bottom rollers. Fabric

is passed between these rollers in rope form. Plates are provided which can be controlled

pneumatically. Water inlet and drain valve are also open closed pneumatically. Machine capacity is

200 kg.

MAT machine

It is also used for both scouring and milling(length and width milling). It is also a rope scouring

machine and consists of two pair of rollers and four metallic plates this machine contains four drain

valves and four in let valves. A pump is provided in the machine, which brings the chemicals from

the stock tank to the main vessel.

Capacity of machine - 350 kg.

Press of plates during milling- 2 bars

Speed of the fabric- 150-200 m/min( maximum speed is 400 m/min).

Scour Mat

It is a rope scouring method used for terry wool fabric. It consists of pair of rollers between which

ropes of fabric is passed. Maximum eight ropes can be loaded on this machine but six ropes are

normally loaded. Two ropes at the end are not loaded to avoid the damage. To avoid the

entanglement of the ropes, they are passed through rings placed just before the rollers. There is one

water inlet valve and two drain valves, one for collecting plate, which heats the water which is to be

squeezed from fabric. This water then overflows from the plate and falls in it to the main vessel. The

water is again picked by the fabric and again squeezed between the rollers. Capacity of Scour Mat

machine is 200 kg.

Fig.1.28- Scour Mat scouring machine

Dolly machine

This machine is used for scouring and width setting of the fabric.

69

The dolly machine is constructed with two heavy squeeze rollers and guide rollers. The bottom

heavy roller is driven by chain pulley drive given from outside. The top roller rests on this roller

with fabric between them in rope from and is frictionally driven. A metallic plate is situated under

the heavy rollers to catch the expressed liquor. It is only when scouring is approaching completion

that the liquor is discharged to facilitate quicker and more though rinsing.The pieces of cloth are

made into endless chains in such away that they pass through the squeeze rollers, over guide rollers

and under the though. When the machine is set under motion the pieces will rotate endless.

The top roller is soft rubber coated and bottom roller is made of hard ebonite. In the metallic plate, a

steam pipe is provided which is perforated to heat the water. Four jets of water at the back side of

the machine spray water with force on to the fabric. There can be possibility of processing four

ropes together. Capacity of dolly machine is 150 kg.

Following points are to be checked for scouring machines-

Condition of upper and lower rollers.

Guage in between the rollers.

Water leakage and steam leakage from valves.

Condition of drain valves.

Air pressure where required.

Auto stop devices.

Cleanliness of machines.

MILLING

It is done to shrink the material to maximum possible extent so that it does not shrink during its end

use. The lot is loaded into the machine and its ends are stitched together to form an endless rope.

Four such ropes are loaded in the machine. The machine consist of a fan, which blows air onto the

fabric so that it opens before entering the compressing zone with closely placed steel bars followed

by squeeze rollers .the fabric then slides over the tray in plaited form before being drawn away by

the winch rear and thrown into the milling liquor. During the milling cycle the milling liquor is also

continuously sprayed over the material before entering the compressing zone. The liquor is with

drawn from the addition tank, which is continuously replenished, by withdrawing the milling liquor

from the bottom of the machine. This process is based on the principle that the wool gets shrinked

when it is rubbed in wet conditions and at certain temperature.

Process sequence

Loading of fabric

70

Washing with detergents

Drain

Addition of milling chemicals

Drain

Washing

Addition of acid

Addition of softeners

Drain and Unloading

After milling, the material is sent in drying section. First process is hydro extraction. The material is

loaded in the machine and rotated at high speed, and water gets extracted from the material. There

are 3 such machines in OCM.

DRYING AND HEAT SETTING

The drying and heat setting both is done by a stenter.

The essential part of the machine, the end less chain, called pin plates run forward each side of the

stenter frame. These chains are so held that the selvedge can be impaled on both sides. The pins are

about 10mm long and mounted in two rows along the base plate, about 24 pins in approximately 7

cm. The fabric lies stretched in open width across the stenter frame and between the two chains of

the pin plates.

Over feed is necessary to minimize lengthwise shrinkage in subsequent washing and dry cleaning.

The fabric descents behind the fabric operator platform and passes underneath to a driven roller just

above the floor level. It then rises upward in front of the operator and is contacted by the first scroll

roller, then by a smooth idling roller followed by the main feed roller, rubber coated to insure good

control. The fabric is then on to the same level as the pins and moves forward to join them.

As the chains move forward carrying the fabric, it is arranged that they gradually diverge to required

width and the fabric is thus stretched out to the width. Once the fabric has been brought to the

required width, the two chains of the pin plates run parallel and take the fabric through a long,

71

lightly constructed, heat insulated chamber where the drying takes place due to the hot air being

circulated there in, as the fabric emerges completely dry and set in length and width. It reaches a

point when it leaves the pin plates and is folded into laps in trolley. Meanwhile, the pin plates

attached to the endless chains return to the entry end of the stentering machine and there again pick

up the incoming fabric to bring it forward.

Near the end of the machine the fabric is lifted of the pins by the driven take off roller and passes

round a pair of draw rollers, which deliver to an overhead plaiting mechanism. A large wire mesh

screen is fitted in the side to remove fly or lint entering the system. Heat setting is done to avoid

formation of creases and shrinkage. It provides dimensional stability to the fabric.

DRY FINISHING SECTION CROPPING AND SHEARING

Objectives of shearing are-

To clear out the random length fibres and produce a uniform and level pile.

To reduce the height of the wild fibres and prevent pilling.

To produce a certain handle.

To improve the colors and appearance of the fibre. In a shearing machine there is a spirally wound shearing blade, which revolves in contact with a

ledger blade. The fabric passes over a cloth rest in front of ledger blade and the raised fibres flop

against the ledger blade and are cut by the rotary blade. Suction units are incorporated for cleaning

the working units .an automatic seam unit allows the steam to pass through. There are six searing

units divided in three sets, each seats working on both faces of the fabric simultaneously. Static

charge, which may build up in previous shearing units. This part of the machine is very important

because it prevents the formation of cropping mark, which results from the tendency of fabric rising

up and sticking to the spiral blade. For cropping, there is a very important factor which is the

distance between the fabric surface and the blade which is set according to the requirements.

In this machine, the speed of the fabric movement is 20-25 meters and speed of the spiral blades is

1200 rpm.

DECATISING

72

This process is used for improving the soft handle of the fabric. The fabric is wound together with

an interleaving fabric on a perforated metal roller so as to form a reasonably thick roll, between each

layer of the fabric of some thickness made of synthetic material.

The machine consists of two rollers. A wrapper of terry viscose is wrapped around one roller. The

fabric with wrapper is fed to other roller. Fabric can be fed from both sides of machine. When the

fabric is fed from one side of the machine, the fabric is unloaded from the other side of the machine.

Steam is blown from inside to outwards through the fabric which undergoes moderate pressure due

to tight winding. The steam time is generally 4 minutes to produce smooth and flattening of the

surface. The steam absorbed is expelled by lowering compressed air through the fabric in same way

as it was blown through it. This air produces some cooling in the fabric.

Specifications

Wrapper length 450 meters

Steaming time 4 minutes

Cooling time 3 minutes

Pressure 5 kg/cm square

Steam pressure 2kg/cm square

Loading time One and half hour

Kier Decatising

This machine is used to give smoothness, luster and soft surface to the fabric. Also, it provides

bulkiness to the fabric and also controls fabric shrinkage both lengthwise and widthwise.

It is also called final finish as after this, finished fabric will not shrink after washing, generally in

case of wool fabric, as during spinning and weaving, the fibers get stressed( due to sulphide bonds in

wool structure). In kier decatising, the sulphide bonds get relaxed and get rearranged. By this

machine, the width reduces by 1% and the length extends by 1.5%.

The machine consists of three perforated metal rollers covered with wrapper. Fabric is wound on the

roller with the fabric layer in between successive wrapper layers. This roller is send inside the kier

for processing. There are two other rollers outside the machine, one of which is loaded while other is

simultaneously unloaded. The process is similar to open decatising. The main difference is that

steaming is done in a closed vessel and the process is more controlled than the open decatising. The

wrapper length in this case is 600 meters and fabric length is 450 meters. The machine is

electronically controlled and different programs are set in its memory according to the fabric

composition. There are different methods of applying steam to the fabric.

73

KD in-out : In this case the steam is passed out from the perforated cylinder and passed through the

fabric. The drain valves remain closed while steam is being applied.

KD out-in : In this case the steam is applied from out side of the fabric roll to inside the drain valve,

and the drain valves are remained closed.

ROTARY PRESSING

The material after cropping which is not decatised is taken for rotary pressing. The process in this

machine is similar to simple ironing. But it is a continuous process i.e. fabric is fed from one side

and is pressed in the machine with the help of iron roller and pressed fabric received from other side

of the machine. The machine consists of roller and metallic plate having same curvature as that of

the roller. The material entered is taken over vertical moving roller, which is hydraulically

controlled to properly aligned fabric at the centre of the machine. The material is passed over two

brushes to remove dust and loose fibres. The material is then taken to the main pressing zones. it

consists of a big rotating steel cylinder roller heated internally by steam. Under this roller is a heated

steel plate which can be moved up or down to press the fabric against the roller. It should be noted

that the fabric should be damped with steam before hot pressing. Rotary process gives fabric a crisp

handle and increase in luster.

Specifications

Temperature of the roller 120 degree

Temperature of the base plate 118 degree

Speed of the fabric 15-20 minutes

Pressure for polywool blend 15 tons

Pressure for polyviscose blend 6 tons

In every two months, following list is checked for rotary press machines-

Lubrication of all moving parts.

Safety guard at the feeding end for correct position.

Water supply to the hydraulic pump for proper cooling.

Oil level of main gear box and hydraulic pump.

All the drives in the machine.

The brushing unit.

The take off rollers.

Air, oil and steam leakage from joints.

Stoning of calendring cylinder.

Descaling of cooling unit of hydraulic pump.

74

PAPER PRESSING

After open decatising, the material is taken for paper pressing. This machine gives smoothness and

shine to the fabric. The machine consists of compressed paperboards placed on a platform. The

fabric is compressed between 2 paper boards. Surface of the board is very smooth. After every 40

paper boards there is paper board provided with copper wires which can be internally heated. After

loading the material in the machine it is transferred to the base of the hydraulic pressure unit and is

heated for some time before pressure is applied. Then pressure is applied on the stock of the fabric

place between the paperboards for four hours and the material is unloaded. Pressing results in

parallelization and flattening of fibers. Hence surface of fibers becomes smooth and it reflects more

light.

Fig.1.29- Workers folding fabric between paperboards

Fig.1.30- Paper pressing(fabric between the paperboards and copper wires for internal heat)

75

Specifications

Capacity 1200 meters

Heating temperature 50 to 55 degree

Heating time 2 hours

Pressure 2 tons

Pressure time 4 hours

Loading time 2 and half hours

Reverting time 2 hours

In every two months, following list is checked for paper press machines-

Brake of bed lifting motor.

Lubrication of moving parts

Oil leakage from the joints.

Limit switches of safety devices.

All the guides (made of fibre sheet).

Hydraulic pump, high pressure valve, low pressure valve, pressure release valve.

SUPER FINISH MACHINE

This machine consists of a large diameter rotating cylinder. It is heated internally by steam. An

endless thick belt(silicon rubber blanket) is arranged which presses lightly against the greater part of

cylinder to ensure that there is no friction or slip between the two. The suitably damped fabric is fed

between the blanket and cylinder an is so laid around the cylinder until it arrives at a point where the

blanket leaves the cylinder and under the influence of this pressure and the moisture from the steam,

the fabric has its surface completely smooth to acquire soft handle. Temperature of the roller is kept

at 140 degree. This machine gives smooth handle and lustrous look to the fabric.

Every month, following list is checked for super finish machines-

Controls of the rotating cylinder

The conveyor belt.

Guide rollers.

Endless belt control feeler and switches.

Hydraulic system and oil level.

Correct belt tension of rotor.

Pressure control devices and pressure reducing valves.

Position of the rotor in relation to the fabric sides and tension of its belts.

Roller effect for shine and cleanliness.

76

Distance between the fabric to the rotor unit( must be between 8 to 10 mm)

Flanges and rotary joints.

Lubrication of all moving parts.

CONTI BLOW

This machine is similar to decatising machine but it is a continuous process. The function is to

produce compactness in the fabric. It consists of a perforated roller, which is covered with a silicon

blanket, a metallic plate is fitted below a roller and the continuous belt is also present which moves

between the rollers and plate. The fabric is fed between the roller and the plate. The fabric is then

fed between the roller and the belt. Pressure is also applied in the process which leads to reduction in

width.

Specifications

Main steam pressure 7 kg/ cm square

Speed of the fabric 20 m/min

Air pressure 2 bar

Applied steam pressure 4.7 kg/cm square

In every two months, following list is checked for Conti blow machines-

Air and steam leakage from joints.

Correct position of all the safety guards and limit switches of auto stop.

Setting of the bowing roller.

Steam strainers and steam trap.

Gap between steming jet and decatising cylinder.

Entire pneumatic steam valves.

Lubrication of moving parts.

Maintenance check points on finishing section machines

77

Parts to be inspected Check points Inspection notesControl panel 1.Check all connections.

2.O/L relay settings.3.Contactors contacts.4.Metering equipments.

1.Must be tight.2.Set as per motor ratings.3.Check for pitting/ damage, clean or Replace.4.Check for zero errors.

Electric motors 1.Check bearings.2.Carbon brushes.3.Commutators.4.Slip rings.5.Dust filters.

1.Replace if noisy/ damaged2.Replace if worn out or not of proper size.3.Must be smooth. Polish if pitted.4.Must be smooth. Polish if pitted.5.Clean properly.

Voltage stablizer 1.Servo system2.Oil level.3.Metering equipments.

1.Check its operation.2.Must be maintained up to the mark.3.Check for zero errors.

Heators 1.Heating equipment. 1.Check contuinity and repair or replace if defective.

Per month consumption of different resources in the Departments (Average)

Departments Steam Water Electricity

Finishing (should be) 3.8 kg/mtr 68 lt/mtr .47 kWh/mtr

Funishing (actual) 4.6 kg/mtr 77 lt/mtr .69 kWh/mtr

Dye house (should be) 7.5 kgs/kg 100 lt/kg .6kWh/mtr

Dye house (actual) 8.3 kgs/kg 135 lt/kg .92 kWh/mtr

Weaving( should be) - - .55kWh/mtr

Weaving (actual) - - .67kWh/mtr

Spinning (should be) - - 3.4kWh/mtr

Spinning (actual) - - 3.3kWh/mtr

Post spinning (should be) - - 2.20 kWh/mtr

Post spinning (actual) - - 2.14 kWh/mtr

78

INSPECTION

Organizational Structure

Sr. Manager ( Mr. G.S Mehra)

Civil Export

Manager ( Mr. Rajindra Sharma) Manager(Ravi Sharma)

Clerk ( Mr. Shashi Kumar)

Tech officer ( Mr. Surjeet Singh ) Tech officer ( Mr. Satya Pal)

In the inspection department, the fabric from the finishing department is brought in horse trolleys.

Then the fabric is taken to the perches. Firstly it is taken to back side perching, where the fabric is

placed on a machine with its back facing the operator or inspector looking for defects in the fabric.

As in general inspection machines, light is put on the fabric from the other side to find the defects

easily. The fabric is inspected for the presence of faults manually and the faults are flagged

according to the faults.

4 types of defects are basically looked upon, they are- clipping, damage, barre and stain.Six

machines are used for the process. In this process two types of flags are used-

White flag – for presence of minor faults (pin holes, marks)

Yellow flag – for presence of major faults(start up mark, missing pick, damage etc,)

White flags are used for the minor faults which are not adding major to the fabric. The yellow faults

are those faults which cannot be removed from the fabric and has to be further cut from the fabric.

These inspected fabrics are the further checked on the table where the faults are rechecked if the

faults are under the white or yellow flag category. The fabric rolls are further processed (cut)

according to the buyers demand. if the fabric length is 15 m and there are 10 white flags then the

amount paid by the buyers will be of 14.90 m only. This means the buyer is given compensation for

this defect as 1% of total meters. Further the acceptable limit for the white flag is one in every 5m

(max).

79

No of machines 6

No of pieces/ (m/c) /shift 26

Length of fabric ( avg) 110m

Total amount of fabric inspected 6 x 26 x 110 m

= 17160 m/shift

INSPECTION MACHINE

Fig.1.31- Operator inspecting the fabric and issuing flags to defects

Fig.1.32- Fabric inspection machine

80

VARIOUS DEFECTS IN FABRIC

SR. NO. SPINNING PREPARATORY WEAVING PROCESSING

1. Thick places Slack end Missing end Corrugation

2. Thin places Sizing stain Starting mark Water mark

3. Naps Double end Broken end Crease mark

4. Slub Pulling mark Broken pick Stop mark

5. Moiré effect Big knots Short pick Crease mark

6. Cone change Reed mark Single mark

7. Coarse yarn Temple mark Skew impression

For the export market OCM uses the four point system

Size of defect Penalty points

3 inches or less 1

Over 3 inches but less than 6 inches 2

Over 6 inches but less than 9 inches 3

Over 9 inches 4

The four point system is issued by the American Society for Testing and Materials(ASTM). Faults

are scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4 according to their size and significance. In the

inspection the total points are awarded to the fabric. The general tolerance limit for the presence of

the defect is 25 points per 100m roll of the fabric. Again this tolerance limit depends upon buyer

some has strict limits some are liberal in their tolerance level. Generally the yellow flag faults are

not removed for the export market products because they come under the tolerance limit.

No of machines 6

No of pieces/ (m/c) /shift 31

Length of fabric (avg) 110m

Total amount of fabric inspected 6 x 31 x 110 m

= 20460 m/shift

After inspection, the fabric is brought to the measuring and table cutting section.

81

Here the fabric length as required by the buyer is measured and cut according to the instructions by

the PPC. If the defect gets in the way before the required length has been completed, then an

assessment committee in which all HOD’s of different departments come together and decide what

to do with the defect and action is taken. If there is need of cutting of fabric due to some defect, then

it is noted with the reason and the type of defect due to which fabric is cut short of the length and the

report is sent to the respective department so that they can improve that. Also the supervisor checks

the shade of the fabric with the original sample.

CHECKING OF DIMENSIONS

1. MEASUREMENT OF WIDTH-

Width shall be measured at three different places of the fabric and recorded. While measuring width,

care should be taken: -

To remove the wrinkles/ crease gently from the fabric surface.

To keep the measuring tape straight across the fabric horizontally from selvedge to

selvedge.

To measure the width as far as possible near the centre avoiding the ends.

Not to stretch the fabric while measuring

2. MEASUREMENT OF LENGTH-

Fabric to be measured for length and actual length recorded. Length is measured by any of the

following methods: -

By passing through meter counter fitted roller.

By manually clipping the fabrics in the fold measuring frame.

By counting the number of meter fold in case of folded fabrics. Care to be taken to ensure

that the folds are of one meter length by measuring a few folds.

3. CHECKING OF CONSTRUCTIONAL PARTICULARS-

a) Ends per inch

Ends per inch shall be counted at two places along the width of the fabric and recorded.

b) Picks per inch

Picks per inch shall be counted at three places along the length of the fabric and recorded. Care to be

taken while placing the pick glass to see that the edges of the template should coincide with the

yarn. Ends/Picks per inch may be counted for one inch. Also the picks should not be counted at

defective places like weft bars and cracks.

82

c) Weight per square meter

Pieces are to be weighed and recorded for GSM.

Calculation of GSM

Weigh the individual piece under Inspection and note-down.

Work out the sq.mtrs. of the piece by multiplying the length of the piece in mtrs. and width

of the piece in mtrs.

After measuring and cutting , they place a sticker on to the fabric which contains information about

that fabric, like piece number, shade, weight, length, party to which it is to be delivered. After this,

rolls are made for export fabric and Thaans for the domestic fabric. Thaans are made on a machine

in which the fabric is folded into half widthwise and folded with proper tension.

Then the fabric is weighed and then some of the details of fabric and party is transferred from a

white paper to the fabric by help of ironing.

Fig.1.33- Details of the fabric from ironing on sticker over the fabric.

After this labeling is done and barcode is assigned to each roll and Than. On that barcode also, there

are details of fabric and party. Then packing of than is done in which Cellophane paper is used to

pack the fabric inside the Alfathin film. The Cellophane paper is heat absorbent and ironing is done

on Cellophane kept just above the Alfathin film and not directly on Alfathin film as the film sticks

with the iron. Ironing on Cellophane doesn’t affect it and the film beneath Cellophane is properly

packed. The Cellophane can be used many times for packing the fabrics in the Alfathin film. The

packed fabrics are then send to the warehouse.

83

Fig.1.34- Operator ironing on cellophane paper kept above Alfathin film

Process sequence

Receive material from Finishing Dept.

Back side perching

Face side perching

Measuring table(quality shade check)

Cutting

Weighing

Plaiting

Packing

Final checking

Send to warehouse

84

WAREHOUSE

The material from Inspection Department is received in Warehouse and a record is kept. It is the

warehouse from where is material is sent ahead to its market customer as the challan recipt is issues

for the invoice department as well as for the transportation department , so as to have an estimate

figure of cost to be obtained from the buyer.

The warehousing department follows the listed below steps of procedure:

Scanning of the packed fabric lot

Computer scan of the vouchers & verification of details of the vouchers (using bar code

readers).

Dealer-wise stock maintenance against requirement.

Bill development and issuing of challans ( for invoice, transportation, sales.)

Rechecking of bill with the sales challan copy.

Dispatch to dealer using different modes of transportation.

The work process in the warehouse department goes smoothly in 2 work shifts. And 3 shifts very

seldom in 3 months span.

The vouchers received are checked for any mistake for:

DESIGN

GRADATION

METRES etc. by piece ticket

There is different warehouse for storing export and domestic fabric in OCM. The capacity of

warehouse for domestic market is 10 lakh meters and for export, it is 2.5 lakh meters.There were 15

staff members in warehouse and invoice and total 60 workers in the warehouse.

Fig.1.35- Warehouse containg all fabric Thaans on racks

85

QUALITY & ASSURANCE

The Quality Assurance department performs all the possible quality checks on all material involved

in production and ensures best possible quality according to set norms. Quality Control laboratory

acts as the main controller of quality of the product.

The raw material i.e. wool and the finished product i.e. fabric both are tested for quality assurance in

Q.C Lab. The quantity of raw material i.e. wool to be purchased is checked by various tests in the

Q.C Lab and the raw material is purchased only on the approval of the Q.C lab.

The product during its production stage is also tested in the laboratory e.g. the color fastness is

checked as required by Dye House. The samples are also tested for various characteristics during

development etc.

Thus the Q.C Lab checks and controls the quality of the product at various stages during its

production. The Q.C Lab is equipped with various machines and technical staff for testing and

quality control which helps in achieving the company’s aim of good quality. Each department has

online testing lab in which material is tested time to time for different things.

The work of quality control lab starts when the raw material has been taken in. it starts testing from

the fiber to the formation of the fabric and gives the instruction according to the change required in

the handling of the material.

At first, when the fibres come to the lab, the main tests are related to its length, its diameter ( micron

for wool), different defects in the fibres like dead fibre, pin points, colored fibres. Based on these

defects , their evaluation is done for their further processing.

After testing of fibres, they are send for either dyeing or for spinning(at the time of processing). In

case of spinning, the fibres are checked for their mass per unit length. In dyeing department, tests are

performed for Ph control and for shade matching.

After dyeing, fibers are being tested for their color fastness to perspiration, to washing, to light etc

and they are compared with the grey scale and the points are allocated to them from 1 to 5. The

fabric which are tested, in which the result values lie between 3 to 5 are considered good and other

are rejected and accordingly color fasteners are used in the dyeing process. The results of these color

fastness tests are based on three things, the change in shade of fabric, change in color of liquid, and

the change in color of the adjacent fabric.

After dyeing, the material goes for spinning. In this department the fibers are converted to yarn. In

this processing these products are tested for the strength and for weight per unit length and twist,

coefficient of variation etc. Before the yarn is made, the product at respective stages in the spinning

86

department is tested for the weight per linear metre. This is checked to reduce the variation in the

final product. Also the oil content is checked at various stages.

Some of the important tests which are carried out in the Q.C Lab are briefed below:

BLEND (Composition):

Chemical tests are used to find out the blend of the fabric. One ingredient is dissolved in the

chemicals and the residual is dried and weighed, which in turn gives the percentage of ingredients.

Thus the blend or composition is found by chemical testing.

For WOOL: Chemical used is 5% Sodium Hydroxide.

For VISCOSE: Chemical used is 75% Sulphuric Acid.

For SILK: Chemical used are Sodium Hydroxide & Hydrogen Chloride.

For VEGETABLE FIBRES: Chemical used are 75% Sulphuric Acid & 25% Water.

For POLYESTER: Chemicals used are Nitro Benzene, Phenol & Nitric Acid.

The blend tolerance is 2%.

Fabric width

For civil, overall width is 150 cm which includes selvedge.

For domestic, width is 150 cm which excludes selvedge.

PILLING:

Pilling is the process of growth of small balls called pills on the surface of the fabric due to wear &

tear or abrasion.

Name of the Machine – Atlas Random Tumble

Martindale testing machine

ICI pilling testing machine

The fabric is tested for resistance to pilling in the Q.C Lab and graded as I.II or III according to the

results. (Grade I is best and Grade III is poor).

Two methods are used for pilling in the lab. These are:

Abrasion testing

ICI Pill Box testing

Abrasion Testing:

This test gives the result in very short span of time as compared to the other method. In this method

small pieces of fabric is fitted in the machine and tested for pilling.

ICI Pill Box Testing:

In this method, the fabric is rolled upon small cylinders made of rubber and are allowed to rotate

randomly in a special wooden box, this method takes about 11 hours to give good and accurate

results. The box has a cork sheet covering inside so that the tested samples rub against it for 11

87

hours and every possible pill of the fabric gets exposed. A rate of 5 is considered to be the best for

pilling of a fabric.

Micron tester

This machine is used to check the diameter or the fineness of the fibers.

The fineness of the fibre(wool) is measured in microns.

1µ= 10-6 m

For wool, the fiber is said to be fine if it is below 18µ or 80s. this fiber is very soft and expensive.

The fibre is said to be of medium thickness if it is between 22µ to 22.5µ or 64s.

The fibre is said to be coarser if it is more than 27µ or 58s.

Tensile strength

The tensile strength or the breaking strength is tested by three different methods.

Raveled strip method- In this method, a strip is cut(6 x 20 cm). Then yarns from the sides are

taken out to reduce it to 5 cm width. This raveling helps to get better results of the strength than

directly cutting 5 cm strip. The ends of the strip are held by jaws moving away from each other.

The reading in the machine when the strip gets torn is its tensile strength or breaking strength.

Cut strip method- Difference in raveled strip and this method is that no raveling is done in this

method. A strip (5 x 20 cm) is cut. The strength of the fibres is less than that in raveled strip

method.

Grab method- The strip size is 4 x 3. In this the strength of only 1 inch is calculated. Thus only

one inch is grabbed. Rest of the yarns are supporting yarns.

For all these three methods, the strength is calculated both warp wise and weft wise.

Seam slippage

For this test, the strips are stitched and then weight is put. The weight at which seam opens is read.

For civil, the allowed seam slippage is 6 mm. 8 kg of load is put on the fabric.

For export, , the allowed seam slippage is 6.4 mm. 25 lbs of load is put on the fabric.

Laundrometer

The color fastness of the fabric is noted in this test and the sample is tested for the extent it loses

color in the test. The fabric is kept in the laundrometer for a period of 35 minutes.

Shrinkage

The shrinkage property is tested in this test. To check the shrinkage, shrinkage tester machine is

used. The fabrics of different blends are tested by different methods e.g. All Wool is tested for

shrinkage by soaking it in cold water only (a wetting agent is also used so as to improve the wet

ability of the wool) for 2 hours.The detergent used is Lisapol D. While the Terry Wool fabric is kept

in boiling water for continuously 12 hours and then dried flat at room temperature.

88

Fabric is cut to 30cm x 30 cm. In this piece marks are made and distance between marks are 25 cm.

After soaking the fabric, it is taken out and the distance between marks made on the fabric is

measured. The difference in distance is calculated in form of percentage.

Projection Microscope

A projection microscope is used to identify the nature of the fibres. Slides are prepared of either

fibres or the sliver.

This helps in:-

Identification of fibres.

Measurement of fibres.

Judge the qualities of the fibres.

Twist Tester

A Twist Tester is used to measure the twists per decimeter or twist per inch of a yarn.

It also determines the nature of the twist, whether it’s an ‘S’ twist i.e. a clockwise twist of the yarn

or a ‘Z’ twist i.e. an anti-clockwise twist of the yarn.

Crease Recovery Tester:

Small pieces of warp and weft are cut from the fabric. They are kept under weight for 5 minutes.

Then they are hung from a point in the crease recovery tester at 90 degrees. After 5 minutes the scale

is rotated at certain angle, if the crease straightens up at 140 degrees, then its good else if it

straightens up at an angle less than 140 degrees then there are less chances of crease recovery in that

fabric.

Crockmeter

To check the color fastness to rubbing.

Color fastness tester- to check the color fastness to

Washing

Perspiration

Color bleeding

Stains

Other testing apparatus are-

Ph tester

Oil content tester

Drape tester

Fiber length tester

89

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT

The OCM is especially active in initiatives taken in the framework of research and in the

development of innovative products, in particular, by promoting technical textiles or new application

fields for textile-based materials.

R&D (Research and Development) Fabrication

Sampling Oder Receiving from Merchandiser

Selection of Yarn

Knitting parameters setting

Finishing parameters (Samples + Production)

Samples inspection according to four point system

Testing of samples

Checking parameters at every stage (Weaving, Dying & Finishing)

Process Flow of Research & Development

IN-HOUSE TESTS:

PLEAT SHARPNESS & STABILITY :

Pleat means creases in the right place

Pleat sharpness depends on Blend, Sett and Ironing

Polyester rich blends pleat sharply in dry heat and have a high pleat stability while, Wool

pleats better in moist heat.

90

SAMPLE ORDER

DECISION OF PARAMETER

YARN DEMAND GENERATION

YARN PROCUREMENT

WEAVINGDYEING

FINISHING TESTING & QUALITY DISPATCHING

WRINKLE RESISTANCE:

Wrinkling means crease in the wrong place

Wrinkling depends on the blend & the finish

Wrinkle resistance in OCM Suitings is measured in every lot & design.

PILLING:

Pilling depends on fabric sett & finish. Loose sett and surface nap of fabrics cause pilling.

OCM Suitings are well sett, singed & cropped.

Each OCM Design is tested for pilling in R & D laboratory before marketing.

SEAM SLIPPAGE:

Slippery yarns and loose structure are primarily responsible for seam slippage.

High yarn friction and fabric firmness prevents seam slippage.

BAGGING:

Repeated flexing-particularly at the elbows or knees leads to bagging.

Bagging depends on firmness of single yarn.

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY:

Depends on fabric sett & finish.

Crabbing, Heat setting & Decatising are critically governed to achieve dimensional stability.

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

BATCHING OIL:

Mahwa Oil lubricant was replaced by self-emulsified castor oil based batching oil. Net

saving was approx Rs. 4 lakh per annum since 1974.

Other benefits were better fibre-cohesion & absence of freezing of oil in winter

RING FRAME using Opto-Electronic sensor / stop motion:

Trial fabrics made from such yarns in 1981 were evaluated even before Siro-Spun

technology was introduced.

Other IN-HOUSE Developments:

Mosquito repellent finish

Enzyme finish

Fragrance finish

Anti-pill finish

Moisture control finish

Mechanical stretch fabric

Fancy yarn developed in conventional ring frame

SiroSpun yarn

91

Lycra yarn made in conventional TFO

WATERPROOFING:

OCM excels in waterproofing of woollen materials. A technology perfected by only OCM.

FLAME PROOFING:

OCM excels in flame proofing of woollen upholstery. Tweeds and children wear using the latest

perfected Fluouro – Zirconium based technology.

SIRO SPUN YARN:

With the “SIRO SPUN” process, a special spin-twisted yarn can be produced directly on the ring-

spinning machine. In this process, two roving are led in parallel through the drafting system,

separated by two specially developed condensers, and drafted separately.

The twist is introduced as for a normal single yarn by means of ring and traveller. The roving

strands, which are drafted parallel, are combined after passing the front rollers at the exit from the

drafting system, with some twist being produced in the individual strands right up to the nip point.

Once past the front roller of the drafting system, the two strands are combined producing a twofold-

like yarn.  The yarn has uni-directional twist like a singles yarn but the fibers are bound sufficiently

for the yarn to survive weaving/Knitting.

The process Technology of SIRO spun yarn imparts better surface abrasion resistance and pilling

resistance in comparison to Normal & compact  yarn.

Fig.1.36- comparisons among normal, compact and Siro spun yarn

Benefits of SiroSpun Yarn:

SiroSpun reduces wool spinning costs by avoiding one stage. The main advantage of the SiroSpun

process is a reduction in spinning costs for pure fine wool weaving yarn. On average, SiroSpun

technology lowers the processing costs of spinning by 56 percent. Weaving yarns are normally two-

fold – that is, made up of two yarns together. Ordinarily the strands must be first spun and then

‘two-folded’. SiroSpun reduces cost by combining spinning and two folding allowing a two-fold –

like yarn produces in one step from wool top.

92

Fig.1.37- The SiroSpun Process and SiroSpun yarn

SAFETY

93

In OCM, various safety measures and precautions are followed to ensure a safe environment inside

the industry. There are charts and boards for proper use of each machines and also about the

instructions for using that machines are written in hindi and in local language so that workers can

easily read them and follow them. There are fire extinguishers and emergency exits in each

department.

OCM SAFETY CONCERNS

Safety of workforce.

Safety of machinery.

Safety of buildings.

Safety of electrical installation.

Safety of raw material

Safety of finished goods.

Safety of hoists and lift.

Safety of furnace oil, diesel, LPG and chemicals.

Safety of pressure plants.

SAFETY MEASURES

1. Environmental health - The department takes special measures to ensure the environmental

health of the workforce as a whole.

2. Safety meetings are held- Both the management as well as the worker representatives are

present in the meeting. The meetings are held once a month.

3. Internal audit safety report- The data is collected from all the departments. It covers the

following areas-

First aid- These are provided in every department.

Ergonomics and posture- It is also taken care off that the employees do not suffer from

any survical or any other medical problems like stress, strain, headache, etc.

Fire safety and drill electrical safety principles of accident prevention- It occurs due

to carelessness, negligence, shortcuts in procedures, lack of supervision and over-

confidence. OCM received 2nd prize in Punjab State Safety Award in 2008.

Precautions-

First-aid boxes- these are checked twice a week.

94

Eyetest- eye tests are done on a regular basis for all the employees.

Spray- pesticide spray is sprinkled at regular intervals.

S ecurity -

Visitors- visitors are duly checked and given temporary passes by the personnel department for entry in the company premises.

Fire points- Various fire points have been created in the company for fire safety during an emergency.

Problems raised by the workers-

Drain passing near the workers colony must be covered.

Water cooler should be provided at specific places.

Additional first aid boxes should be provided.

Provision of normal as well as liquid soaps should be made in all the washrooms.

Proper cleaning should be done by the sundry staff twice a day.

AC plants should be switched off when not in use.

Flooring should be repaired where necessary.

95

SALES & MARKETING

The textile industry in India is Season based. The summer season begins in November and ends in

May and, winter starts in June and ends in October. The sales department is responsible for making

sales in domestic market. The distribution network of OCM has got about 16 agents spread all over

the country which in turn is well connected further to distributors,, wholesalers and retailers.

The sales team of OCM, by remaining in touch with the agents books orders from the valuable

customer and sends the order to staff at the office. The orders after being booked are dispatched

within 45 days. The domestic market is more profitable than the export market. The costing of any

material depends on the micron of the yarn used for its construction. Sometimes the price range is

also decided depending upon the price range of the competitors.

There is no excise duty charged on the products meant for the Defence Personals.

OCM supplies about 10 lakhs of product to the Defence Personals.

Privileges in Export:

The export house enjoys some special facilities provided by the govt. Some of these privileges are:

Duty free import of raw material

No Excise

No Sales Tax

Special Import Licenses.

The latest trends about the market and the various moves of the competitors are carefully studied

and new designs and new markets are tapped very carefully by the sales team. The sales department

with its well qualified and professional team of members is well equipped.

OCM also have many exclusive retail shops all over the country.

OCM does cater to the need of brands like:

Madura Garments

Shopper’s Stop

Mayfair

Crocodile

Benetton India Pvt. Ltd.

Indus League Clothing

Silver Crest Clothing Pvt. Ltd.

Trent Ltd.

Embassy Apparels

OCM does supply to various Government Departments & Forces also, the names of a few are listed

below:

96

HRTC

Delhi Metro Corporation

Department of Police, Delhi

Department of Police, Punjab

Ordinance Clothing Factories

Indian Navy

Indian Army

Indian Airforce

Indian Oil Corporation

Lok Sabha Secretariat

BHEL

Department of Police, Uttar Pradesh and Bihar

Rashtrapati Bhawan

National Fertilizers Ltd.

OCM does provide its supplies to various airlines and hotels too, namely :

Kingfisher Airlines

Spicejet Airlines

Jet Airways

Air Deccan

Airport Authority of India

Hotel Radisson

Centaur Hotels Ltd

OCM has proved its metal in overseas as well, as courtesy to it has numerous Export Customers as

well, namely:

Levis

ODLR

Superior

Kizan

J C Penny

Original Penguin

Haggar Clothing Company

S.W.O.T ANALYSIS

97

STRENGTHS

Biggest strength of OCM woolen mills is its latest technology and imported machinery.

High spinning capacity plant in worsted spinning system.

In north India the brand is perceived to be a premium and reliable brand because of its

presence in market for over eight decades.

There is no other big industry of woolen fabric in north India.

The industry has a good reputation in international market as well.

WEAKNESSES

The main weakness of OCM is a conventional distribution channel. The company relies

mainly on agents for sales promotion who might neglect their work to earn better margins.

Though the company is selling its product all over India, but it is situated in Amritsar,

which is far from the west and south India.

The company spends less money on advertisement and brand promotion as compared to

other brands.

The brand positioning is wrong, it is still perceived to be an older brand.

OPPORTUNITIES

The company can set up its ready-made unit to increase the utilization of its finished

product.

There is increase in demand of the suiting product in the market due to increase in business

class people.

Due to increased demand of product, there is also demand for quality of product for which

OCM is known in the market.

The other opportunity for OCM is the rural customer because they are not as much targeted

by the big players.

THREATS

The biggest threat is of the growing popularity of the cotton fabric and thus cotton

producing units in India and abroad.

Raymond suiting has been major competitor of OCM.

The converters i.e. units established exclusively to convert fabric into ready-made garments

pose the biggest threat to OCM, since they usually buy cheaper material of not so known

brands.

98

SUGGESTIONS

Recruitment of more female staffs

Operators should effectively use personal safety equipments like masks, ear plugs, etc.,

wherever required.

Measures must be taken to reduce the absenteeism to minimum.

The transportation of material from one department to other should be taken care of in a

better manner & done swiftly.

99

CONCLUSION

From our two weeks of industrial training here in OCM, Amritsar, we have learnt many things

which hopefully mightn’t be imparted anywhere in books or colleges, i.e., with excellence and

perseverance combined with team efforts and morals only, a company can imagine to succeed.

And it gives us immense pleasure to share that OCM is indeed a successful textile company, setting

examples for others to follow and being a guiding light for internees as well as new fishes in the

market to survive(by imbibing in blood their success key).

After this training we have came to know that how fabric is made and what kind of defects are there

in the fabrics and how they come into existence and what are the quality standards for fabrics.

The strong culture of the OCM does definitely contribute to great extent to the production capacity

of the company. The capacity planning process of the industry is remarkable and does compel one to

pay heed to, if at all one desires to be dream big and be successful.

OCM, India undoubtedly made the two week industrial training program worth and does enlightened

us to extremes.

100

REFERENCES

www.ocm.in

Export related information from Warehouse (General Manager).

Process related information from respective HODs (Head of Department)

SWOT information from the retail outlet head.

101