OAKH_WEB

Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2012

FASHION AND FANTASY

DESERT DREAMS

THE JACKETAN INDISPENSABLE

FINISHING TOUCH

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ere at Oak Hall and at our “vineyard vines by Oak Hall” stores in Memphis and Nashville, we’ve been preparing forthe transition from winter to spring and summer for over a year, in an effort to turn your shopping this season into an enjoyableadventure worthy of multiple visits to all three stores to see what’s new.

Within this issue, you’ll find articles on people, fashions and lifestyle that we thought you’d find interesting, as well asour Must-Haves feature that highlights the selections our buying team has made with your input in mind.

As Oak Hall enters its 153rd year in 2012, you’ll notice that we’ve embraced the latest technology with our updated web-site, an active presence on Facebook, and email communications with thousands of our customers, like you, to inform you of in-store special events, trunk shows and exclusive offers throughout the year.

We cannot possibly tell you how much your support, loyalty and friendship over the years means to us, and how proudyou’ve made us to be included in so many of your special occasions and celebrations. We thank you and look forward to seeingyou many times in the coming months at one, two, or all three of our stores.

With best wishes always,Will, Bill and Bob Levy and your friends at Oak Hall

WELCOME TO THE SPRING 2012 ISSUE OF OAK HALL FORUM MAGAZINE

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OAK HALL6150 Poplar AvenueMemphis TN 38119

901-761-3580www.oakhall.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEFKaren Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTORHans Gschliesser

MANAGING EDITORJillian LaRochelle

PROJECT MANAGERLisa Montemorra

DESIGNERSCynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

CONCEPT DIRECTORSAndrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell

MERCHANDISING DIRECTORBob Mitchell

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTIONPeg Eadie

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESSHugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNAL S FASHION GROUPPUBLISHER

Stuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CAHubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OHLarrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA

Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TXMario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WAMitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY

Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CTOak Hall MEMPHIS, TNRodes LOUISVILLE, KY

Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LAStanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER

STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS

JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175;

ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-

6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR

ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER

MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN

PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

FEATURES 1 Welcome Letter 68 Escapes: Star Treatment 78 Photography: Rock Star

FASHION9 Oak Hall Must-Haves42 Suiting: Tailored to Perfection44 Denim: Attention-Grabbing Style46 Profile: Samuelsohn 48 Style: Discover Your Inner Italian52 A Walk in the Walled City 60 The Jacket

DEPARTMENTS 4 Ask Forum for Him6 Ask Forum for Her66 World Scene72 CEO Style: Dinner With Friends 76 Spirits: Roll Out the Barrel80 End Page: Hitting the Right Notes

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KATE WINSLETExperience the whole story at DISCOVERSTJOHN.COM

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CANALI

SPRINGFASHION TIPS

FOR HIM

ASKFORUMQ: I’ve had some of my suits for over a decade and they’re holding

up pretty well. How do I know when it’s time to replace them? Just because your old suits aren’t worn out doesn’t mean they’re still in style.Cuts are slimmer now, so if you haven’t bought a suit since the country had a bal-anced budget, your closet needs updating! Jackets are also slightly shorter, two-buttons are in and pleated pants are out!

The trimmer a suit gets the more important fit becomes, so it’s a good idea toinvest in well-made pieces. Ask us to show you how quality canvassing, construc-tion and fabrics all come together to form the perfect fit, one that highlights yourshape and moves with you without constraining you. We’ll bring you up to speedwith updated models that suit your taste and budget. And don’t forget to pick upa few slimmed-down shirts and ties to complete the new you; nothing ruins thesilhouette of a trim suit faster than wearing a large, lumpy shirt under it.

Q: What can I do to make my casual wardrobe current forspring/summer 2012?

Warm weather sportswear can be casual, but never sloppy. One perfect way toupdate is with the season’s hottest bottoms: slim chinos. Available in bright col-ors and updated neutrals, the new chinos pair equally well with polos or softcoats. Make sure they hit just at the top of your shoe, or roll them up a few timesfor relaxed elegance. Don’t forget to ditch your socks or replace them with onesthat can’t be seen, like the new styles from V.K. Nagrani.

The boat shoe is also back in a big way this summer. We’re firm believers thatdeck shoes offer a perfect footwear option for casual style. Try them with colorfulshorts for day, or dark jeans and a blazer for evening. Drivers and loafers arealways safe bets, too.

Q: My wife switches her closet every season, but I wear the samesuits and slacks all year round. Am I doing something wrong?

Yes! Suits in particular are often designed by season. Tropical-weight, at 6.5 to8.5 ounces per linear yard, is comfortable for spring and summer weather. Mid-weight suits (9 to 10 ounces) can be worn 10 months out of the year, and regular-weight suits (11 to 13 ounces) are suitable for fall and winter months. Some fabrictypes are also more appropriate for certain seasons: linen, cotton and seersuckerin lighter colors help keep you cool in summer, while corduroy, tweed and flannelin darker seasonal tones are great layering pieces for the colder months.

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SPRINGFASHION TIPS

FOR HER

ASKFORUMQ: It seems that prints are everywhere, but I’ve

never considered myself a “prints person.” Help! From bold geometrics to dreamy florals, our favorite designers are offering allmanner of fabulous prints for 2012. With so many to choose from, there’s some-thing out there for everyone. If you’re new to prints, an easy way to introducethem into your wardrobe is with a flowy, romantic blouse or dress, like the onefrom Vince pictured at left. There are no hard and fast rules, so the most impor-tant thing is to come in and start trying things on! Don’t discount anything untilyou see how it looks on you. We promise to help you find a pretty print you canwear with confidence, and put the spring back in your step this season.

Q: I love white for summer. What can I do to add some visualinterest to an all-white outfit?

If you thought white was boring, or that you could only wear it a few months outof the year, you might be surprised at the lighthearted—and light colored—fash-ions that dominated this season’s runways. You can add both newness andlongevity to your wardrobe by layering different tones (bright white, cream andtaupe) and contrasting textures (pique, eyelet, embroidery and knit). This look isall about approachability and ease, so try a loose, sheer blouse over a georgettecami, or top a silky slipdress with a chunky cardigan. And don’t forget to careful-ly consider your undergarments, the literal foundation for any successful whiteensemble.

Q: Asymmetric hemlines look great on the runway, but how can Itranslate the look for real life?

Skirts, dresses and tops with asymmetric cuts are hot right now, so you’ll beremiss if you let their tricky fits scare you away! Don’t be dismayed if you try iton and it doesn’t look exactly like it did on the model. This style is all about pro-portion, but you can always have a piece tailored and tweaked to flatter your par-ticular shape. Working with your associate is key: she can point you toward thepieces that will work for you, help you decide what alterations to make, and sug-gest the perfect footwear to complete the look.

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BLUE CRUSHKarolina Zmarlak dress,

Alexis Bittar earrings Zegna suit, Eton dress

shirt, Isaia tie

Oak HallMUST-HAVES FOR SPRING 2012

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DUAL PURPOSEJack Victor suit separates, RobertTalbott shirt, Zegna tie, EdwardArmah pocket circle, Torino belt


SOFTLY SUITEDLida Baday jacket, blouse and skirt,

Rebecca Minkoff clutch, LoefflerRandall pumps, DebraJill earrings

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SPORTY CHICRag & Bone skirt and top,Zegna sportcoat, pocketsquare and polo, Hiltl five-pocket twills, Torino belt


STRIKING IN LINENCanali linen sportcoat, Scott James

sport shirt, Edward Armah pocket circle


CLASSICALLYPOLISHEDCanali suit, Eton dress shirt,Stefano Ricci tie, EdwardArmah pocket circle


FEMININE DETAILAlice + Olivia dress


RAY OF SUNSHINELela Rose dress, Alexis Bittar earrings


TRUE FITIsaia suit and dress shirt,

Charvet tie, Torino belt


CASUAL &CONFIDENT Billy Reid suit and sportshirt, Torino belt


MINIMAL ELEGANCEA.L.C. dress, Alexis Bittar necklace


SHARP & SLEEKNellie Partow skirt and leather top,Be Inthavong clutch, DebraJill ring


THE 10-POCKET BLAZERZegna blazer, Scott James sport shirt,

J Brand jeans, Torino belt


PRETTY IN PINKRobert Rodriguez dress, MaxMara belt, DebraJill earrings


THE ’20S INFULL BLOOM

Haute Hippie cardigan anddress, Alexis Bittar earrings


PLAYFUL COLORCrittenden sportcoat, Rufus sportshirt, Citizens of Humanity jeans,Edward Armah pocket circleJil Sander blouse and skirt, RebeccaMinkoff bag, Ports 1961 belt


FUN IN THE SUNAgave polo, Grown & Sewn five-pocket

twills, Costa sunglasses


LIVE IN COLORLacoste polos, J Brand jeans


PATTERN PLAYBills Khakis shorts and sport shirt


WALK IN MYSHOESLoeffler Randallsnakeskin pump,leather pump andbasketweave wedge


IN THE WEAVE OF THINGSLoeffler Randall sandal, Be Inthavong silk and

leather woven bag


RAINBOW KNITSCharvet knit ties


COOL & CRISPEton dress shirt


CHECK IT OUT!1859 wrinkle-free sport shirts


COLOR OF CONFIDENCEScott Barber sport shirts


A LITTLE PLAIDBills Khakis shorts


COLOR STATEDJ Brand five-pocket twills for him


GO GINGHAM!Scott James sport shirts


SWITCH IT UPTailor Vintage reversible shorts


FISH OUT OF WATERSouthern Tide seersucker shorts


ONE FISH, TWO FISH…

Southern Tide swim trunks


CASUAL COMFORTPeter Millar seersucker shorts, polo and sportshirt, V.K. Nagrani socks


PICK YOUR COLORPeter Millar polos


RMENEGILDO ZEGNA’s new Milano suit for spring 2012 is anexquisitely detailed work of art that, one could say,took the Italian clothier a century to perfect. Just intime for the luxury menswear brand’s 100th anniver-sary, the Milano is a super-soft study in sartorial chic

that combines a slim shape, gently fitted waistand natural, semi-constructed shoulders.

Like all Zegna suits this season, the newMilano, available in both single and double-breasted, is interpreted in a range of color-

ful natural fabrics that appear to bebleached by the sun, with an ever-so-slight sheen reminiscent ofsharkskin clothing from the 1950s.But the Milano is tailored with adecidedly modern sensibility. Thejacket is cut slightly shorter andfeatures just a hint more interiorcanvas—as many as three layers—for structure, yet the finished gar-ment remains remarkably light-weight. The defining element is

the barchetta, or boat-shapedbreast pocket, a sewing detail that

can only be achieved by hand.Initially a cloth producer and later a

suit and sportswear maker, ErmenegildoZegna (pronounced zane-ya) has per-

fected the art of lighter-than-air suit mak-ing like no other designer label in history.

The Trivero, Italy-based mega-brand notonly constructs all of its own suits in fac-tories around the world (prompting thecompany to introduce the slogan ‘Made in

Zegna’), but the family-owned company

suiti

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TAILORED TO PERFECTION

100 YEARS LATER, OLD-WORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP MEETSMODERN TECHNOLOGY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

Zegna suits in a rangeof colorful naturalfabrics that appear tobe bleached by the sun.

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has pioneered everything from thetechnically advanced fabrics usedto make its suits to the su mesura,or made-to-measure, concept oftenemployed to sell them.

WHAT MAKES AN ERMENEGILDOZEGNA SUIT SO SPECIAL—espe-cially the made-to-measure

variety—can only be answered byslipping into one. Each piece is alabor of love tailored to your exactspecifications, in the fabric of yourchoice. You can select the numberof pockets, the direction of thepleats on your trousers and eventhe buttons and whether or notthey work. Moreover, it will bemade with such attention to detailthat your every physical anomaly—from sloping shoulders and athrown back to a hollow chest oran enlarged abdomen—is actuallymasked by the finished garment.(Buying one of these suits is a farbetter option than going under thedoctor’s knife.) You may neverneed to visit your tailor again.

“By the time a made-to-measuresuit is complete over 500 handswill have touched it and more than7,000 hand stitches will have beenused to create it,” explains imagedirector Anna Zegna.

Zegna workers have a hand inevery step, from shearing the sheepthrough the processing of the fiberinto yarn (and then fine fabrics), tothe cutting and sewing of everyjacket using a combination of mod-ern machinery and hand finishing.

“The perfect fit of a Zegna suitcomes from constructing it with100 pieces; the lining alone com-prises 12 separate components,”adds Zegna. After each piece isprecision cut, it passes through thehands of hundreds of tailors,whose singular purpose is to turn

one-dimensional pieces of clothinto a three-dimensional garmentworthy of the most discriminatingclientele. The waistband, fly andbelt loops on a pair of trousers canrequire more than 20 workers, andit takes the efforts of another 24tailors to construct the sleeves of ajacket; nearly 190 sewers areinvolved in creating the body of asingle jacket. Even the act ofsewing a simple buttonhole “cantake an eternity of careful cuttingand stitching,” says Zegna.

Once the fabric has been cut,corresponding pieces are carefully

bundled and passed down to thetailors and sewers to construct thegarment, which can take as long asfour days to wind its way throughthe 110-step production cycle.

Upon completion each suitundergoes an arduous pressingprocess performed by dozens ofworkers: six to press the slacks andanother 22 to press and hand-ironthe jacket before it receives itsfinal inspection. If the finished gar-ment meets the company’s loftystandards, it is literally given theZegna seal of approval as the sig-nature logo is sewn in place.

THE SECRET of a Zegna suitisn’t just the meticulous wayit’s put together, but theinnovative cloth used to makeit. The company’s founder andnamesake, Ermenegildo Zegna,began as a fabric maker in1910 with the creation of anatural wool weighing roughly350 grams per square meter,considered featherweight byearly 20th-century standards.Today, most Zegna fabrics weighin at a fraction of that andinclude such technical advancesas Trofeo, a worsted wool madeof prestige Australian superfinemerino wool with long fibers foradded strength and resiliency,and the latest 13milmil13, avicuna-like fabric made from

merino yarns measuring lessthan 13 microns. (To appreciatehow exceptional this is, oneneed only reflect on the factthat a human hair measuresroughly 50 to 60 microns.) Thedevelopment of such fine micronwools is the result of Zegna’s1963 initiative, the VellusAureum trophy, which motivatesand awards Australia and NewZealand’s sheep farmers whoproduce these ultra-fine wools.

Pioneering fabrics for springinclude Zero Weight, a blend ofsuperfine merino wool and silkwith a yarn count of 600—thefinest silk quality in the world.The company is also movingforward with last year’s CoolEffect, in which fine Australian

wool is finished to enable darkfabrics to reflect heat like light-colored ones. The result: a cloththat keeps the wearer 10degrees cooler than if he werewearing an untreated fabric.

“Fabric represents Zegna’sheritage and it’s the primaryfocus of our innovation,” saysAnna Zegna, noting that thebrand offers more than 700cloth options, including 200 newfabrics each season, as part ofits made-to-measure suit service.Over the course of thecompany’s 100-year history,“Zegna has invented over 20unique and innovative fabrics invarious colors, patterns andtextures, which have becomestaples of our collection.”

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denim

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HO ISN’T SEARCHING for theperfect jeans, a pair thatis both comfortable andsexy? Seemingly impossi-

ble standards for most brands to liveup to… but AG isn’t most brands.Mixing that form-fitting silhouettewith a lived-in feel is what makes AGdenim the hottest on the market.

The company launched in 2001as a collaboration between Mr. YulKu and “the Godfather of denim”Adriano Goldschmied. (Ku owns30-year-old Koos Manufacturing,one of the world’s premier denimfactories; Goldschmied co-foundedDiesel.) The two parted amicablyin 2004 and the brand has been onthe up-and-up since Ku’s son Sambecame design director in 2006.

AG manufactures everything in

its own 400,000 sq. ft. facility inLos Angeles, employing over 1,000workers. The amount of time andpersonal attention that goes intoeach pair is astonishing: fromhand-sanding and oven-bakedwhiskering to new eco-friendlylaser technologies that help createthat perfect vintage look.

“We control every step becausewe’re a vertical operation,” Samsays. “We don’t take shortcuts, ortry to save a few cents here andthere with cheaper fabrics or trims.We really care about the productand want our consumer to lookand feel good in our jeans.”

Premium fabrics are sourcedfrom Japan and Italy, many ofwhich are exclusive to the brand.Recently, AG has also impressed

with its non-denim styles, likesuper-soft pima cotton cords.

In denim and other fabrics alike,Sam highlights colored bottoms asone of spring 2012’s hottest trends.Men should try muted colors likesand and charcoal, while womencan experiment with a morediverse range: dusty shades of roseand gray, and saturated brightslike electric blue and raspberry.

The brand has garnered frequentpress attention thanks to its manycelebrity devotees, includingpower couple Gavin Rossdale andGwen Stefani, and Academy Awardnominee Anne Hathaway. But Samgets most excited when he seessomeone—anyone—walking downthe street in a pair he designed.“For me, that will never get old!”

ATTENTION-GRABBING

STYLEAG JEANS WILL GET YOU NOTICED. BY ELISE M. DIAMANTINI

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S P R I N G 2 0 1 2

SCOTTBARBER.COM

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ounded in 1923,Samuelsohn is aMontreal-based clothingcompany with a reputa-tion for excellence basedon fine tailoring, luxuryfabrics, unusual atten-

tion to detail and modern style. For Samuelsohn, fine tailoring

means fully-basted canvas con-struction: there is no glue in theinterlinings of their suits, so thatthe garment maintains its shape,fit and comfort even after repeatedcleanings. Their luxury fabrics arefrom the best mills in Italy andEngland, featuring cashmere,camel hair, superfine wools, Pimacotton, Italian silk and preciousfibers like vicuna and yangir.Hand-tailored details includeBemberg linings, corozo or hornbuttons, silk threads and labels,and Italian cotton pocketing.

But perhaps Samuelsohn’s realsecret weapon is its designer,Arnold Brant Silverstone, who grewup working for his family’s clothingcompany in Montreal beforelaunching his own in the late 1990s.Respected as one of the most tal-ented designers in the industry,he’s also known for his dapper per-

sonal style. Here, we speakwith him about tailored cloth-ing, and about what makes awell-dressed man.

What’s so special about aSamuelsohn suit?It’s about hand-craftsmanship:each suit takes six and a halfhours of labor, more than manyof the well-known designerbrands that arealmost twice theprice. Are theymade totallyby hand?No. If wecould auto-mate it all, wewould. But thereare severalprocesses amachine can’tduplicate: the hand-basting, the hand-sewn armholes, theshoulder. Certainsteps can be automat-ed and you won’t seethe difference, butothers cannot. Mostimportantly, technol-

OLD WORLD QUALITY, MODERN STYLE.BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

SAMUELSOHN:

NEVER COMPROMISE

prof

ile

Samuelsohndesigner ArnoldBrant Silverstone

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ogy has not been able to duplicatea full canvas garment. Cheapersuits look okay on a hanger sincethe shape comes from pressing.But after dry cleaning, that shapeis gone. Your suits are known for acertain “expression”—whatdoes this mean?It means the garments are not flat:there’s a certain dimension, a soft-ness, a sexiness. After all, thehuman body is not flat, so a well-tailored suit should also haveshape and dimension.What should guys look forwhen buying a suit?The most important thing is fit:when you put on the garment, itshould make you look better. Awell-tailored suit hides myriadimperfections and moves with you.The shoulders should be on you,not out to there. Today, men arewearing suits closer to the body,but that shouldn’t mean you losecomfort. It’s like driving a greatsports car and really feeling theroad. When you wear a quality suit,it moves with you.How can guys look elegantwhen they’re not wearingsuits?The biggest problem is when menequate casual with not caring, withthrowing on jeans and a T-shirt.

The best-dressed men put thoughtinto dressing: casual might meanbeautifully tailored cotton pantsand a soft jacket or a lightweightknit cashmere sweater or a coolreversible outerwear piece. Thinkback to the best-dressed men overthe decades: The Rat Pack, JamesBond, the Kennedys, Cary Grant,

George Clooney… However casualthe look, it was well thought-out,not thrown together, reflectingtheir personal style. What are the key items aman should have forspring/summer 2012?1) A great summer suit, maybe atropical wool in British tan or dovegray. 2) A performance blazer orsuit, either with high-twist yarns orsome Lycra. Most guys these daysare traveling or on the move butthere’s no reason not to look crisp…3) A cool outerwear piece: some-thing reversible or with interiorpockets or truly transitional andmulti-functional. 4) A soft coat.We’re famous for ours: they looktailored but weigh next to nothing.What’s the secret of successfor a clothing manufacturer?Passion! I’ve been doing this formore than 20 years; I inherited thepassion from my parents. But inaddition to passion, one needs aspirit of innovation. We’re on topof the latest fabrics, fits, technolo-gies. We’re always pushing theenvelope, never satisfied with thestatus quo. We want the customerto say “WOW!” every time he putson one of our garments. That’s mypassion, and my mission. How would you describeyour own personal style?

I like to look contemporary: notblending in with the crowd but notblatantly standing out. I like cloth-ing that’s special, with the focus onfit, quality and elegance. That’s theway I like to dress and the kind ofclothing I love to design!

CLOTHING THAT’S SPECIAL, WITH THE FOCUS ON FIT, QUALITY AND ELEGANCE.

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IN THE 1960s film La Dolce Vita,main character Marcello Rubini(played to perfection by MarcelloMastroianni) wears a series ofform-fitting two-button suits fea-turing curvaceous lapels, soft natu-

ral shoulders and cigarette-cutslacks. When not wearing a shirtand tie, he opts for Johnny collarknit shirts accented with a scarf orascot, casually knotted at the neckin a way only the most debonairItalian men are capable of pullingoff with effectiveness.

No one ever second guesses thecharacter’s (supposedly a journal-ist) sense of style. Forget the factthat no American journalist—except the occasional fashion edi-tor or perhaps the novelist TomWolfe—dresses with suchunabashed sartorial flair. In Italy,whether students, statesmen orstreet sweepers, most men natural-ly possess a sense of chic thateludes the rest of us.

Italians grow up in a culturewhere sartorial style is taken forgranted. “We have a native predis-position for elegance and style, acharacteristic that has been devel-oped and improved upon overtime,” explains Elisabetta Canali,scion of the Canali clothing family.“Good taste and savoir faire arejust a part of the Italian culture.”

By way of tailors (found on everystreet corner), Italian men learnabout fine fabrics, the importance

DRESS LIKE YOU WERE BORN INTO LA DOLCE VITA. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

DISCOVER YOURINNER ITALIAN

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of a razor-sharp fit and how to mixand match shirts, ties and acces-sories. Moreover, through experi-ence and experimentation theydiscover that a suit with a higharmhole isn’t necessarily tight anduncomfortable—just the opposite,in fact. Most important, they train

themselves not to be afraid ofcolor for fear of being bullied orjudged. Just as “it is important formen to choose the right silhouettein order to feel most comfortable,it is equally important to work withcolor to give each outfit someexcitement,” adds Canali.

“A man should look for a suithe can wear, and not a suit thatwill wear him. In other words, ele-

gance, sophistication and timelessstyle are always better than of-the-moment trends, which will date thewearer,” offers Giorgio Armani.“As for style, a two-button suit ismore timeless than a three- or aone-button. A single-breasted ismore versatile than double, allow-ing you to dress your suit up ordown more freely and use the jack-et as a separate more easily.”Finally, says Mr. Armani,“Confidence and a sense of humormake a man sexy.”

Dressing like an Italian is aboutdiscovering a sense of balance,proportion, color and pattern. Onecan begin to develop Italian-esquestyle with a few simple tricks: • Wear dark sunglasses,

Mastroianni style, in any weather. • Don loafers without socks.• Drape and loosely knot a colorful

sweater over your shoulders. • Carry an oversized bag across

your chest.• Secure your necktie with a knot

large enough to land a smallplane on.

• Add a notice-me belt (white is anoption even in winter) to bring atouch of panache to your jeans.

• Wear a coordinating top coatover your suit or sportcoat.

• Consider flat-front red pants orwhite jeans.If you’re worried about remem-

bering these rules, turn to adesigner collection, like LucianoBarbera or Brunello Cucinelli, forinspiration that can help make theprocess a bit easier. Barberaprefers a bit of formality in hischeck cashmere sportcoats, wornwith crisp cotton shirts, wool ties

and flat-front trousers. He also rec-ommends brown suede shoes withmost outfits to give your look asporty yet sophisticated edge.

The Cucinelli formula is equallydistinctive: trim-cut gray flannelslacks or jeans, a knit shirt and/orpullover sweater, and a gray cash-mere blazer with suede elbowpatches and a turned up collar.Since Armani invented his slouchysuits in the ’80s, few designersuntil Cucinelli have seen their“look” adopted by such an eclecticassortment of men—from the 70-year-old businessman to the 25-year-old college student.

“I think it’s very important howwe put things together,” saysCucinelli, one of the few Italiandesigners who espouses facial hairwith his cashmere blazers. “I like toshow clothing, even tailored pieces,in a sporty chic way that is ageless.Because when I’m 50 years old, likeeveryone else, I want to lookyounger,” adds the designer (whoclaims to be 49, despite what itsays on his birth certificate).

Cucinelli designs each piece soit can be worn on its own and in avariety of ways. “A 25-year-old manis not going to wear a classic pin-stripe suit,” he says, suggesting

that a tailored gray cashmere blaz-er over khakis or jeans can beequally elegant, depending on theman wearing it.

Bottom line: open your mind andexperiment with your wardrobe tofind your perfect style. After all,you may be able to afford a Guccisuit or Prada loafers, but that cashregister receipt doesn’t come witha diploma in style.

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“WE HAVE A NATIVE PREDISPOSITION FOR ELEGANCE AND STYLE, A CHARACTERISTICTHAT HAS BEEN DEVELOPED AND IMPROVED UPON OVER TIME.”—ELISABETTA CANALI

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CASB

AHa walk in the walled city

The ancient Moroccan city of

Aït Benhaddou – formerly a caravan

route between the Sahara and Marrakesh,

and location for the fi lm Lawrence of

Arabia – provides the perfect canvas

for the bold, romantic and timeless

looks of spring 2012...

S E R G I O K U R H A J E C

C L A I R E B A Y L E Y

W E N D Y M C N E T T

P H O T O G R A P H Y

H A I R & M A K E U P

S T Y L I N G


citrus anD spice | strong solids | pops of pink


THIS PAGE

Dress by Lela Rose.

OPPOSITE PAGE

Shirt by Isaia, jacket by Canali.


Sromantic prints | subtle checks | bold stripes


Spring may be springing, but that doesn’t mean it’s time to walk around without a jacket.

A great-looking lightweight jacket or sportcoat is an essential fi nishing touch for a put-together casual look.

Whether a man walks into a meeting, a meal or a movie... without a jacket, no matter how great the shirt is, the look will be unfi nished, lacking in style and sophistication. This spring, there has never been a more versatile selection of high-performance, lightweight jackets in so many fabrics and

styles. Whether in summer suede, seersucker or silk, cotton, denim or “techno-fi ber” designed to beat the heat,a couple of great jackets can complete any look. And jackets are not just for slacks. Wear them with jeans, khakis—even your favorite shorts!

TheJacket

YOU’RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT...

THE ULTIMATE FINISHING TOUCH AND THE KEY TO A WELL-DRESSED MAN

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JACKET 101: THE EASIEST WAY TO ADD STYLE ANDELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUALEVERYDAY LOOK

FORGETTABLE

MEMORABLE!JACKET 101: THE EASIESTWAY TO ADD STYLE ANDELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUALEVERYDAY LOOK

The Jacket [regular size].indd 2The Jacket [regular size].indd 2 1/28/12 10:33 AM1/28/12 10:33 AM

SUEDE OR SEERSUCKER, COTTON ORCASHMERE...A JACKET ADDS ELEGANCEAND TEXTURE TO ANY OUTFIT.

The Jacket [regular size].indd 3The Jacket [regular size].indd 3 1/17/12 3:34 PM1/17/12 3:34 PM

DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OFTHINKING THAT JUSTBECAUSE IT'S WARM YOU DON’T NEEDA JACKET!

MEMORABLE!

FORGETTABLE


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Blazer

THIS LIGHTWEIGHT MUST-HAVE

TRAVELS LIKE A PRO AND TAKES A LOAD OFF YOUR PANTS POCKETS.


JACKET NOT OPTIONAL: A MERE SHIRT AND TIE MAYBE SUITABLE FOR A STUDENT, BUT NOT FOR A MAN WHO MEANS BUSINESS.

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UN JOUR EN NORMANDIEThe lovely little town of Bayeux in Normandy, near the English Channel, is home to the celebrated 230-foot tapestry depicting the

Norman invasion of Britain, not to mention extraordinary cheese, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux and a landscape lay-ered with centuries of history. A drive through the lush countryside offers glimpses of châteaus, apple orchards and the famous

Normandy cows, arguably the most tranquil in the world. Naturally, you’ll want to visit the inspiring and poignant beaches and arti-facts of the World War II invasion. (At Port en Bessin, right above a German bunker, notice the watchtower built by the soldiers ofLouis XV.) Nearby is the 17th-century Château de Balleroy, the Forbes family home. So is Brécy, a manor house with restored Italian-style gardens laid out over four terraces. The Château de Brouay, a mid-18th century château surrounded by farms, has been a familyestate for six generations; you can arrange to lunch in the château or have a cocktail in the orchards. And don’t miss La Haizerie farm,where you might be invited to pet the cows before tasting the homemade lavender ice cream.

THE ART OF STYLEL

e Royal Monceau, Raffles in Paris is a veryfashionable hotel. Between rushing out toglamorous appointments, modish guests

dine in the restaurants, gather at Le Bar Long forcocktails, or indulge in the Spa My Blend byClarins (which has the longest indoor pool inParis). And it’s the ideal hotel for art lovers.Paintings, drawings and photography exhibi-tions are in the lobby, the rooms… everywhere.There’s even a contemporary fresco, A Gardenin Paris, on the ceiling of La Cuisine. Le RoyalMonceau is also home to the city’s first artconcierge, who offers tours of the hotel’s treas-ures and organizes excursions, such as a visit tocontemporary art galleries in the Marais and St.Germain areas, or a private viewing of the HenriMatisse exhibition in Pompidou. In Paris, homeis where the art is.

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PLUGGED INE

ven if you’re not a motorcycle enthusi-ast, chances are you’re going to want totool around the countryside (or slip

quickly through city traffic) this summer onthe top-of-the-line bike from Evolve. TheTitanium XR is all electric: no gas, no oil, noemissions. It can go up to 60 miles per hour,has a range of 100 miles on one charge andis almost completely silent. At your request,Evolve will even make coordinating acces-sories, such as a container sized perfectly tohold your picnic basket or bottle of bubbly.

SUMMER READINGT

here’s a reason Twin Farms is a nice place to curl up with agood book. Set in Vermont, just north of Woodstock on 300acres of meadows and woodlands, this quiet country hide-

away was once the home of Sinclair Lewis and Dorothy Thompson.Here, many of the great names in literature gathered to talk (andprobably argue) about their work and lives. Twin Farms retains itsaura of simplicity and coziness. There are hand-painted murals,rich maple and pine woodwork, American folk art and rusticallyelegant accommodations, with king-size feather beds, wood-burn-ing fireplaces and screened porches. If you need to stretch, there’shiking, biking, tennis, pond swimming, fly fishing and canoeing.But why bother? Just relax and catch up on your reading.

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n warm evenings, New Yorkers love to gather at rooftoplounges. Upstairs At The Kimberly is a favorite amongcelebrities and fashion insiders. The view is spectacular,

the lounge is never uncomfortably crowded (there’s a strictrule about the number of people admitted), and the staff ischarming. Together, sommeliers Branimir Kostic and NikoMavreas have created an extensive list that boasts a collectionof spirits and wines from all over the world, including an aston-ishing 26 different kinds of Champagne. There are wonderfulsavory and sweet things to munch on (try the truffled mac andcheese or lobster sliders), and either sommelier is happy tohelp guests choose a wine and food pairing. Reach for the stars. IM

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THE IDEA OF CAMPING—fresh air, friendsgathering around a campfire, slum-bering under the stars—appeals toalmost everyone. Sleeping on theground, dirt-speckled food andprimitive bathroom facilities do

not. Fortunately, enterprising campcreators are removing much of theuncomfortable stuff from a stay inthe great outdoors, preserving allthe good and adding even moreincentives. Glam camping, or

“glamping” as it’s now called, hasspread around the world.

The Clayoquot WildernessResort is located on the westcoast of Vancouver Island (reach-able by boat or sea plane). Here,

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

Below: Sleepunder the starsin the SabiSands region ofSouth Africa.

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guests who love the great out-doors can hike, fish, or climb to atreetop observation platform toview one of the oldest temperaterainforests in the world, then “fly”over the forest via a 285 meter-long flight line. For those whoprefer less strenuous exploits,Clayoquot offers wine tastings,spa tents and library tents with aninternet café. And the accommo-dations will surely attract the lux-ury-loving camper. Tents reminis-cent of those used in 19th-centurygreat safari camps have king bedswith down duvets, antiquedressers and tea tables, Persiancarpets, working bathrooms andheated floors. There are evenbathrobes and turndown service.

The Resort at Paws Up, locatedon 37,000 acres along theBlackfoot River near Missoula,Montana, offers a range of year-round activities: 120 miles of des-ignated hiking and riding trails,fly-fishing, whitewater rafting,cross-country skiing, and more.Recently, Paws Up has openedtheir most luxurious tentedaccommodations ever. Set on abluff overlooking the BlackfootRiver and Elk Creek, PinnacleCamp has one- and two-bedroomsuites with climate controls, jettedtubs in the ensuite bathrooms and

decks with river views. There’seven a personal “camping butler.”

If you want to go off by your-self, boutique adventure compa-ny Global Expeditions, Inc.offers private custom excursions.This company doesn’t have afixed location or standard pack-

age. Instead, an area is leasedexclusively for you and a luxurytented camp is created. Globalwill fly in a chef from anywherein the world, and cater to yourwhims with yoga masters,masseurs and estheticians, orauthorities on geology, ecologyand astronomy.

For stargazers, there are severalother options. Abercrombie & Kentwill arrange for you to explore themysterious Sahara Desert. After atour of the area (including Berbervillages and the Atlas Mountains)guests set off across the desert fora four-wheel drive to the camp, sit-uated in a remote area overlookingthe Erg Chebbi Dunes. There’s asunset camel ride through theSahara’s dazzling expanse, fol-lowed by a Moroccan dinner, tradi-tional entertainment and a spa-

cious Caidal tent.Then there’s Four Rivers

Floating Eco-Lodge in Cambodia,located in Tatai, next to the Thaiborder between Bangkok andPhnom Penh. There are 12 tentedvillas, each with a flat-screen TV,mini-bar and wi-fi. You can trek

into the jungle to explore one ofthe world’s largest rainforests,kayak down river, fish, or per-haps stop off for a natural hydromassage in the Tatai Waterfalls.At the end of the day, you canrelax on your private sun-loungerbalcony for a cocktail.

If you want to get away from (andabove) it all, Lion World Tours, spe-cializing in trips to southern andeastern Africa, can arrange for youto stay in a treehouse. In the SabiSands region of South Africa, anastonishing bedroom has beenbuilt around a majestic 500-year-old Leadwood tree. Guests aretaken to the camp at sunset to gazeout over the plains while enjoyingChampagne and local delicacies,before turning in on lavish linensin complete privacy… and, natural-ly, sleeping under the stars.

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Above, left:Abercrombie &Kent’s SaharaDesert Camp

Right: The FourRivers Floating

Eco-Lodge inCambodia

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FIND OUT ALL ABOUT THE L.12.12 POLO SHIRT ON LACOSTE.COM/L1212

OAKH_.pdf 71OAKH_.pdf 71 1/17/12 5:46 PM1/17/12 5:46 PM

“I’M A JEANS AND WHITE SHIRT GUY,” saysMarco Maccioni, director of oper-ations and co-owner of MaccioniGroup, a restaurant mini-empirethat includes Le Cirque andOsteria del Circo restaurants inNew York City, Las Vegas, theDominican Republic and India,along with a half-dozen relatedventures.

At the moment, it’s a little diffi-cult to believe Maccioni’s casual-guy assertion. We’re seated at thewine bar in Le Cirque NY, the busi-ness’s Upper East Side flagship,and he’s dressed to the nines in

custom Italian suiting, his still-youthful feathered hair perfectlytousled. Martha Stewart and NewYork City mayor MichaelBloomberg walk past, heading toan event in the restaurant’s privatedining room. Maccioni excuseshimself only briefly to greet andmake small talk. He returns quick-ly, skilled as he is at the art ofimmaculate hosting, ensuring eachguest (including this author) feelslike the only VIP in the room.

“When I got married last year[to singer Sabrina Wender], we didit at the beach, because it was asopposite as possible to what I wearhere every day,” he says.

Marco Maccioni is the middlebrother of three in this tight-knitfamily business, which alsoincludes their mother, Egi, andfather Sirio, founder of the originalLe Cirque in 1974. “We each bringdifferent characteristics,” says

ceo

style

The Maccionifamily in 1980,New York City

Left: MarcoMaccioni, posingoutside Le Cirque,is the picture ofeffortless style.

FOR LE CIRQUE’SMARCO MACCIONI,IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR.BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

WITH FRIENDSDinner

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Maccioni as we sip our ForestBreeze cocktails (muddled black-berries, white Fragoli, vodka andChambord) crafted by BillGhodbane, Le Cirque’s bar manag-er of 15 years. “I’m more the wineand dining aficionado [he worksclosely with the chefs and somme-liers at Le Cirque NY and Circo].My younger brother [Mauro] is thepalate and my oldest [Mario] is thestrategist and organizational cheer-leader. And my father isomnipresent.”

Le Cirque NY is in its third spacein 37 years, this time in the sweep-ing Bloomberg Tower with a viewonto the central courtyard.Maccioni dubs it “Le Cirque 3.0.”

Over the years, it has been a prov-ing ground for many of the city’sbest chefs/restaurateurs, includingDaniel Boulud and Alain Allegretti,and is currently presided over byOlivier Reginensi, who took over inJanuary for longtime head chefCraig Hopson. The food is French,but with Italian and contemporaryflairs. Like the space itself, the cui-sine and festive atmosphere havechanged with each location, whilethe aura, the heart of the restaurant,remains unchanged.

“I parallel it to a classic suit orshoe,” says Maccioni. “There’s areason it’s a classic and respected.Though it might not be fuchsia orwhatever today’s color is, you stilllook good in it. One of the reasonsfor Le Cirque’s long-term successis knowing how to do your thing,but not using everything in yourplaybook at once.”

The suit he’s wearing, crafted by

a well-known Florentine designerand tie maker, is indeed an elegantfusion of contemporary and clas-sic, with trim lines and an under-stated pinstripe pattern. “I guessmy personal style is that... I’mItalian. My family is from Tuscany.In Italy, you go shopping with yourmother. She teaches you to rub thefabric, feel the lapel, and learn toappreciate fine craftsmanship. I’mmore relaxed and jovial, but atCirco, I’m in uniform. The goodnews is, I get to pick my uniform.”

Osteria del Circo, with outpostsin New York and Las Vegas,adorned with European circusthemes, is the family’s other restau-rant brand. It is classically,

unapologetically, Italian. A quotefrom Marco on the restaurant’swebsite explains it well: “When weopened Circo in 1996, our businessplan was simple. Dad’s hospitality,Mom’s food, run by the sons.”

Circo was Marco’s introductionto the business end of things, fol-lowing stints working for bars andrestaurants in Paris and theChampagne district. With theexpansion of Le Cirque and Circoaround the world (the New Delhiventure in the posh Leelah Palaceis the brand’s latest), along with theplacement of Le Cirque menus on15 Holland America cruises, theMaccioni family seems to be every-where these days.

“My father started when he was40, and grew with his customers. Istarted when I was 38, and I hopeto do the same thing,” saysMaccioni. “Every new venture hasnew friends to make, which is the

best part.” He rises to greet BillCunningham, the bicycle-ridingNew York Times fashion photogra-pher about whom a documentarywas made last year. Out comes thenext dish: a pairing of ChefHopson’s lobster risotto andGhodbane’s Champagne Royalecocktail, featuring a sugared rosepetal. The concept of creative cock-tails—beyond, say, a Martini or OldFashioned—at white tableclothrestaurants is a new-again trend inManhattan and a sign of the times.Le Cirque’s wine bar is also “new”with the six-year-old 3.0.

“Le Cirque wasn’t the same in1974, 1984 or 1994, and that’s notcounting the moves,” says

Maccioni. “It was a very purposefuldecision to make the restaurantsdifferent from each other. But it’simportant to do what you knowhow to do within the changingtimes, without losing your identity.”

Part of that identity is, it’s worthrepeating, family. On another visitduring lunch, all three brothers—Mauro, Marco and Mario—swingby to say hello. Unlike at, say, aBatali, Puck or Flay property, theodds are pretty good at the NewYork restaurants (and often in LasVegas) that a Maccioni will wanderpast and ask after your meal.

Marco lives within a couple ofblocks of Circo. “My brothers arehere, or I’m here,” he says. “We aredoing other things, of course, butwe still have the oversight at therestaurants. If that wasn’t impor-tant to us, we’d own a millionrestaurants. But it’s a tradition wefollow and keep.”

74

“THERE’S A REASON A CLASSIC IS RESPECTED. THOUGH IT MIGHT NOT BE FUCHSIAOR WHATEVER TODAY’S COLOR IS, YOU STILL LOOK GOOD IN IT.”—MARCO MACCIONI

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SEPARATES PROGRAM


atered down" liquor is aloaded term, implying a less-than-premium product. The fact is, almostall hard spirits are watered downbefore you buy them. By U.S. law,most hard spirits must have a mini-mum ABV (alcohol by volume) of40%, or 80 proof (liqueurs, sweetened,infused alcoholic beverages, can havea much lower ABV). Since booze usu-ally comes off the still between 110and 190 proof, water is added to bringit down to our acquired palate andmaximize the base product.

The concept of ‘cask-strength’spirits—that is, bottling the productexactly as drawn from a maturingbarrel—has only recently gainedcachet, particularly among Scotchwhisky drinkers. These days, thereare cask-strength releases ofLaphroig, The Glenlivet, TheMacallan and so on, targeting themalt whisky aficionado. "Cask-strength whiskies generally have amuch more intense flavor profile,"says Michael J. Neff, co-owner of thewhisky-driven Manhattan bar WardIII. "It allows a broader range ofexperience.”

‘Cask strength,’ by convention, is"the natural strength of the spirit,unadulterated by water, and is

dependent on maturation conditions,"says Iain McCallum, master blenderfor The Bowmore, Auchentoshan andGlen Garioch whiskies. As a result, thefinal proof usually differs from bot-tling to bottling, so the latest release ofAuchentoshan Valinch might have anABV of 57.5%, while Bowmore's 10-year Tempest Batch 2 is 56%.

Whisky and bourbon aren't theonly aged spirits drinkers are sippingstraight from the barrel these days:

• DeLeon Tequila, a relatively newluxury label, released its extra-agedexpression last fall at cask strength.The $250 tequila, aged 51 months,comes in at 51 proof. Founder BrentHocking is confident in thepurity of his product. "Atcask strength, you can tasteflaws or additives," he says.

• Because Cognac isgenerally a blend ofdozens of barrels, andheavily regulated byFrench law, it's rare to findcask-strength expressionsin America. So whenPierre Ferrand Cognacreleased its $600 limitededition 1972 CaskStrength a couple of yearsago, it was a big deal. And

when it's gone, it's gone.• Pisco, a white, brandy-like grape

spirit, is gaining popularity in NorthAmerica. According to JohnnySchuler, founder of the new premiumlabel Pisco Porton, "in Peru, pisco isdistilled to strength, with no water,oak or anything else added." This pro-duces a clean spirit at about 86 proof."It's an honest drink," Schuler says.

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DeLeon 51, a newextra-aged tequila,is one of the onlymodern tequilasbottled at its fullcask strength.Expect other brandsto follow.

CASK-STRENGTH SPIRITS MOVE BEYOND WHISKY.BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

ROLL OUTTHE BARREL

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SPRING 2012

We made Bills better by not changing a thing.

Cut & Sewn in the U.S.A.


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Taking photos at rock concertsstarted out as a hobby for NYCteenager Neal Preston. But withhis unique ability to capture notjust the celebrity but the spirit andhumanity within, Preston ultimate-ly became one of the preeminentrock star photographers of our era,traveling around the world withfamous musicians for the past fourdecades. His work has appeared oncovers and features in major maga-zines (Time, People, Rolling Stone),newspapers, movies and on count-

less record and CD covers.We caught up with Preston at a

recent photography exhibit at TheMorrison Hotel Gallery in SoHo. What life lessons have youlearned from traveling aroundthe world with rock stars?I’ve learned that music toucheseveryone in a very deep and spiri-tual place, as it does me. If youtake someone’s music away—and itdoesn’t matter if it’s rock, hip-hop,classical, whatever—you are rip-ping out his soul…

Top left: Stevie Nicksat home in Venice,California, 1981Left: Freddie Mercuryat London’s WembleyStadium, 1986

STAR PHOTOGRAPHER NEAL PRESTONON CAPTURING MOMENTS IN TIME.BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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I’ve also learned that the great-est luxury in life is to be able totake private rather than commer-cial flights!How do you manage to getthese very wired guys torelax? How do you capturethem in ordinary moments?It’s all about being a fly on thewall. Mind you, that’s not some-thing that can be taught; you justhave to go by instinct. There is areal finesse involved with figuringout when to remain invisible andwhen not to. If you start to act likeyou’re the fifth member of LedZeppelin, you’re gonna have a bigfat problem…What was the strangestmoment you ever experi-enced at a rock concert?There are many. But having PeterGrant (Led Zeppelin’s legendarymanager) tell me to actually goonstage during a show and standin front of the drummer (JohnBonham) and shoot him was prettybizarre.What do you consider yourgreatest accomplishment?Many people have told me thatthey can hear the music when theylook at my photos. Who do you most admire? I’m not sure “admiration” would bethe right description, but the twomusicians who have influenced mylife are Pete Townshend and JohnLennon. Pete for the honesty in hiswriting, his creativity, his torturedgenius, his ability to look at lifefrom multiple points of view… Icould go on and on. And JohnLennon, for showing me what“cool” really is, for giving me thegreatest soundtrack to life ateenager could have, and for allow-ing me to realize that music was,and always will be, in my DNA.

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Jimmy Page,onstage duringLed Zeppelin’s1977 U.S. tour

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IN 1935, AT 10 YEARS OLD, my father lost his dadin a fire. The death left a Polish-speaking widow toraise her six children in the blue collar town ofSayreville, New Jersey. With no father at home, mydad adopted multiple father figures from his work-ing class, Catholic town. They taught him how tosmoke, sing, swear, tie a four-in-hand and handle hiswhiskey. By 14, Julius Anthony Richard Rarus wassinging with these men—most twice his age—in aSayreville glee club.

After graduating from a Catholic high school, mydad joined the Army, serving as a payroll master ona base in America’s Bible Belt. The only action hesaw during WWII was at the officer’s club, in his tai-lor’s shop, and in the beds of the local girls who’dfall for the handsome singer in the custom-madekhaki uniform.

After the war came college, the Cold War, and apossible new career. At the time, J. Edgar Hoover’smen were recruiting agents who could ferret outCommunist infiltrators from post-war EasternEurope. Aware of my dad’s Polish fluency, they pur-sued him, noting that his crisply tailored Ivy Leaguesuits, rakish fedoras and linen pocket squares wouldserve him well with The Director. But after monthsof interviews, background checks and tails fromother agents to see where he drank, slept andprayed, he was passed over for being “too liberal.”

He’d tell me these stories on Sunday nights, as hefiled his nails, polished his Aldens and brushed hisfur felt hats. He’d hum along to Stan Kenton, BennyGoodman and Frank Sinatra on the Hi-Fi, and remi-nisce about how he courted my mother in jazz clubswhile being courted by the F.B.I. “I’d wear my bestcustom suits, hire a chauffeured car, pick up Momover in Princeton, and we’d drive into the city to seeLenny Bruce, George Shearing, Maxine Sullivan, TonyBennett…”

Years after my dad’s passing, I found myself stand-ing next to Tony Bennett in a Manhattan men’sstore. We began a conversation about music. “Musicis good or it’s not music,” Mr. Bennett told me withunabashed certainty. “We might call it musicbecause it sounds like music, but it’s bad sound. It’sthat simple and always has been.” He leaned for-ward, stared into my eyes with fatherly concern andasked, softly, “Understand?”

I didn’t, to be honest. But I knew my dad wouldhave understood perfectly.

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LIKE GOOD MUSIC STYLE IS AMÉLANGE OF ECLECTIC ELEMENTS,THE WHOLE INEFFABLY GREATERTHAN ITS PARTS. BY JAMES RARUS

HITTING THERIGHT NOTES

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