Oahu InsideOut Jan/Feb 2016

Popular chef adds Hawaiian tapasChai Chaowasaree reconceptualizes his Waikīkī eatery with “smaller” plates

Researchers � oat the idea of aquaculture in open water

JUST BREATHEYogi enthusiasts return to participate in the Wanderlust Festival

FAMILY TIES The Maebos continue to produce One-Ton Chips and Cookies

POUND FOR POUND Generations of local families perpetuate the mochi-pounding tradition

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016

O A H U

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2 InsideOutHawaii.com JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016

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Yogi practitioners retreatto the Turtle Bay Resort Wanderlust Festival will feature four days

of classes, concerts and discussions.

By Kristen Nemoto

“I think people still have this innate need for community, human contact and interaction.”

—Sean Hoess

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“� ere are projections that our � sh stocks will collapse by 2048.”

— Neil Sims

Aquaculture moves swimmingly in Hawai‘iResearch on commercial � sh farming

continues to show that open-water

harvesting is an ecological imperative.

By Simplicio Paragas

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Hilo family continues to produce popular snacksThree generations of Maebos maintain

the quality of One-Ton Chips and Cookies.

By Rizza Cosio

“It’s a family recipe that has been kept secret. My grandma taught my dad and my dad taught me. And one day I’ll pass it down to my son.” — Blane Maebo

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Fitness enthusiasts

swing gracefully through a canopy of

trees.

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award winning• The Zagat Award —Honolulu Hottest Restaurant

• Hale Aina Award —Honolulu Magazine Readers

• Ilima Award —Honolulu Star Advertiser Readers

• People’s Choice Award —Hawaii Magazine Readers

• 10 Best Restaurants in Hawaii Award —The Culture Trip

Known for fusing fresh Hawaii ingredients with the exotic flavors of asia, Chef Chai

has created a culinary style that reflects the cultural diversity of Oahu and the

Hawaiian islands. Chef Chai is constantly seeking out new spices and ingredients at

Oahu’s farmers’ markets and in Honolulu’s Chinatown, which brings back childhood

memories of shopping the local markets in Bangkok to find the freshest ingredients

for his family’s popular restaurant. Chai’s restaurants also have been critiqued and

recommended by many international magazines, from Bon appétit, Brides, Sunset,

Cooking Light, Travel & Leisure to gourmet Magazine and many more.

1009 Kapiolani Blvd., Honolulu, Hawaii 96814 | Valet Parking

(808) 585-0011 | www.ChefChai.com | Facebook.com/ChefChai

Early Bird Special

4-course dinner for $40.

Seating from

4:00pm to 5:00pm only.

Happy Hours from

4:00pm-6:00pm and

9:00pm-10:00pm.An Exquisite Experience Awaits You

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MUSINGS

MAUKA 2 MAKAI

TALKING STORY Uncle Tom Cummings weaves entertaining tales.By Simplicio Paragas

PRO FUSION Chef Chai Chaowasaree introduces Hawaiian “tapas.”By Simplicio Paragas

IRIE MAN Sip on a rum cocktail from Jamaica’s Appleton Estate.By Alison Kent

TRENDING NOWFood fads that are predicted for the coming new year.By Simplicio Paragas

BIG BANG THEORY Local poet laureate, Kealoha, reinterprets body of science.By Simplicio Paragas

AROUND TOWN Plan your next two months with our calendar of events.By Simplicio Paragas

POUND FOR POUND Families perpetuate the tradition of mochi pounding. By Kristen Nemoto

LAST CHANCE to experi-ence exhibits and events that are soon to close. Also, get a preview of March and April happenings.

ISLAND LIFE

D E P A R T M E N T S

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INS & OUTS

OUT & ABOUT

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O A H UO A H UInside Out

MORSELS

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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 InsideOutHawaii.com 5

From Fish Farms to FadsLAND USE MAY well be the most visible of sustainable topics but that hasn’t stopped Neil Sims from proselytizing the virtues of aquaculture. Since 2002, the Hawai‘i Island-based marine biologist has advocated for more � sh farms in open water, hoping to stem exploited, depleting and crashing � sh stocks in the U.S. and across the globe. And the projections are dire if nothing is done: a collapse in our � sh stocks could occur by 2048 if we don’t manage them, according to

an international group of ecologists and economists. While some argue there are perils in harvesting � sh in massive � oating pens in the open ocean, others — like Sims — contend that this is a “total sustainable model.”

On Kaua‘i, sustainability comes in the form of craft distilleries, one of the growing trends in 2016, as predicted by the National Restau-rant Association and Technomic. Both groups shared their top-10 lists, forecasting the up-and-coming culinary fads.

An enduring fad — more like an institution now — for more than 60 years, One-Ton Chips has been a go-to snack for locals and visi-tors alike since 1953. � e family-run business started as a noodle factory in the little old town of Papaikou on Hawai‘i Island and continues to be operated by a third generation of Maebos.

Since 1992, the Yanos have shared their own longstanding tradition: mochitsuki, an annual mochi pounding tradition held at Konko Mission of Wahiawā. � is Japanese ritual is

open to all who want to pound the sweet glutinous rice, which will be used in preparing round-shaped mochi cakes, the circular shapes of which are believed to represent unity and harmony. Yogis and non-yogis will experience their own state of nirvana when they return to the Turtle Bay Resort for the Wanderlust Festival. � e four-day retreat aims to align the body and mind. Meanwhile, Hawai‘i poet laureate, Kealoha, has an equally admirable goal with his new “� e Story of Every-thing,” a show that involves poetry, dance and even a little bit of Woodstock.

MVP | HAWAII | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION

Kathleen PahinuiPUBLISHER [email protected]

Karen RodriguezREGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT

Bob Kowal, Donna Kowalczyk, Chris Snipes, Reeve WeinerACCOUNT EXECUTIVES 955.2378 Miao WooBUSINESS [email protected]

Sidney LouieCIRCULATION & MARKETING [email protected]

Brittany L. KevanPRODUCTION [email protected]

MVP | EDITORIAL

Simplicio ParagasSENIOR EDITOR [email protected]

Kristen [email protected]

Rizza [email protected]

MVP | CREATIVE

Haines WilkersonCHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER

Teri A. SamuelsART [email protected]

Cher WheelerPRODUCT MANAGER

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William S. Morris IIICHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD

William S. Morris IVCEO AND PRESIDENT

Follow us on:

ON THE COVER Fish raised in pens and “Aquapods” in the open ocean could be the answer to our depleting stock of seafood.

©FRANCO BANFI/

GETTY IMAGES

Popular chef adds Hawaiian tapasChai Chaowasaree reconceptualizes his Waikīkī eatery with “smaller” plates

Researchers float the idea of aquaculture in open water

Just breatheYogi enthusiasts return to participate in the Wanderlust Festival

family ties The Maebos continue to produce One-Ton Chips and Cookies

pound for pound Generations of local families perpetuate the mochi-pounding tradition


O a h u

IntOtheBlue

Simplicio ParagasSENIOR EDITOR

editor’s letter

Recognizing the citizens

who make our community a

special place to live and play.

InsideOut Magazine (ISSN 2158-494X) is produced by MorrisVisitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC, 725 Broad St. Augusta, GA 30901. Annual subscrip-tion rate is $18 or $32 for two years. To subscribe, email:[email protected]. Copyright 2016. All rights reserved. Reproduction of the whole or any part of content prohibited without written permission. InsideOut Hawaii will not accept responsibility for submitted materials that are lost or stolen.

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island lifeInside OutO A H U

Master storyteller educates people with mo‘olelo

Tom Cummings shares stories of Hawai‘i at the Royal Hawaiian Center.


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AnImAted And engAgIng, Tom Cummings, affectionately known as Uncle Tom, can weave an entertaining story. As a mea ha‘i mo‘olelo, or master storyteller, Cummings believes that storytelling is a Hawaiian art form that is every bit as important as hula, navigation, basketry and lauhala weaving.

Unpacking a suitcase filled with feathered lei, old images of Waikīkī, a conch shell, coconut husk, tapa and other teaching props, Cummings begins the task of neatly spreading out his “stuff ” — as he calls them — on a kapa-covered table.

“I’m a storyteller with stuff,” says Cummings, who conducts his storytelling session three times a week in front of Helumoa Hale at the Royal Grove. “I find the best way to engage people is to provide them with something visual.”

As passersby gather in front of him, the Maui native begins his storytelling, starting first with the kukui nut and its various uses, from oil and soap to lei and candle. Using a red Bic lighter, he sets fire to a kukui nut seed then waves the flame underneath a halved coconut shell. Flipping the shell rightside up, he scrapes the charcoal-colored ash from the shell’s interior and explains when added with water, this would become the ink used for tattoos.

“When I see a person walk by with a tattoo, I’ll ask him or her if they want to hear a story about tattoos,” says Cummings, a one-time program specialist at Kamehameha Schools, which owns the underlying lands of Royal Hawaiian Center. “If I see kids, I’ll show them the Hawaiian version of kendama. There’s always got to be an angle.”

A more than 40-year veteran of storytelling, Cummings has the ability to convey his stories that manage to earn a lot of applauses and nods of understanding, despite language barriers. A South Korean couple, for example, responded with wide smiles when they finally understood that the feathers from an ‘ō‘ō (forest bird) were used to make capes for kane, and lei and bracelets for wahine.

“A million feathers,” says Cummings, gesturing a #1 with his index finger then

forming six circles, to get across the idea of the amount of plumage that’s required to create a single cape. “Aaa,” the crowd responds.

Visiting from Minneapolis, Minn., Peng Liu made a point of attending one of Cumming’s sessions, saying that she was interested in hearing his stories about Hawai‘i.

“I’m a teacher at a Chinese immersion school in Minneapolis and I am interested in bringing a group of students from China to Hawai‘i in the summer and I thought this would be one of their activities,” says Liu, who asked Cummings if he was available to lead group tours. “I like the way he tells his stories using activities; I do the same when I’m teaching.”

Holding up an 8-inch cylindrical bamboo, Cummings demonstrates how holes would be bored into the wood using a nao wili (pump drill) in order to create a flute. Pressing the instrument to his nostril, attendees were puzzled at first until they heard a couple of bars from the flute, which was greeted by widened eyes and enthusiastic claps. And when Cummings blew into the conch shell sounding off three deep bass toots, they applauded even louder.

“I’ve met people from Slovakia, Lithuania and all over the world,” Cummings smiles. “I share stories that are little known.

“And then I make a mess,” quips the animated storyteller, as he again begins to arrange his “stuff ” on the table in preparation for the next group of listeners.

A more than 40-year veteran ofstorytelling, Cummings has the ability to convey his stories that manage to earn a lot of applauses and nods of understanding, despite language barriers.Referring to his visual props as “stuff,” tom Cum-mings engages passersby with stories of Hawai‘i at the Royal Hawaiian Center.

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Inside OutO A H U

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Tasty tid-bits from around the Island

SUICIDAL AND FORBIDDEN aren’t adjectives normally associated with restaurateur Chai Chaowasaree’s cuisine. After all this is a chef who’s better known for his subtle tastes and visual presentation than he is for his in-your-face � avors. However, the popular local culinary � gure seems to have stepped out of his comfort zone when he reinvented Chai’s Waikīkī Café & Market and dropped the latter half of the restaurant’s name in favor of Hawaiian Fusion.

Rather than just open an extension of his eponymous Paci� ca dining room, Chaowasaree chose a “smaller plate” concept, o� ering his loyal diners a di� erent experience from his Kapiolani Boulevard establishment. While there may be some menu overlap between the two eateries, only at the Waikīkī location will guests � nd an entire page of the menu devoted to “Tapas Style Local Favorites.”

“It allows people to share and try a lot more di� erent things,” Chaowasaree points out. � is reboot also marks the restaurant’s return to more formal service with a full waitsta� , linen-covered tables, and actual — not Chef Chai’s at Paci� ca

Pro FusionFresh concept presents a lavish display of dishes and � avorsBy Simplicio Paragas

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plastic — stemware and silverware. The interior was also upgraded to includedangling globes and a new bar area where guests can still enjoy the full menu, including the entire list of tapas.

One of the more notable offerings is the riff on the savory chawanmushi ($18). Unlike the Japanese dashi-and-mirin-based, steamed egg custard soup that’s garnished with shiitake mushrooms and shrimp, this iteration has a firm, pâté-like texture that’s infused with foie gras purée and served with toasted brioche. A side dollop of blackberry-and-Lehua-honey compote adds a sweet element that accentuates the buttery characteristic of the bread while not overpowering the creaminess of the “chawanmushi.”

Assertive bold essences best describe the grilled octopus ($15), tender slices of the cephalopod are kicked up with a spicy barbecue-and-gochujang sauce, only to be tamed with a cool cucumber salad; and the “suicidal” chicken wings ($12), which are generously coated in Thai chili and accompanied by a mango slaw with chopped peanuts and a hint of cilantro. Both dishes show restraint in heat level, sending just enough spice to taste receptors without rendering them numb after a single bite.

Lighter in calories but certainly not in flavor, the Caprese salad ($12) is composed of ripe Ho Farms heirloom cherry tomatoes and burrata, an Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream. A crispy prosciutto stick adds a nice touch since it

lends more salt and crunch to the salad. Another option is the Parker Ranch tenderloin salad ($15), cold thin slices of medium-rare beef are topped with bits of mango, cucumbers, slivers of Aloun Farms red onions and roasted peanuts, all drizzled with a zesty lemongrass-and-garlic vinaigrette. Even the flower petals are edible.

Since the tapas menu is intended for sharing, portions are enough for two and this is especially true with

the bruschetta ($12), a toasted baguette slathered with Puna goat cheese then topped with roasted Big Island golden and red beets. It also appears that Chaowasaree has heeded the advice of vegetarians, offering them more plant-based options, including the eggplant rollatini ($12), stuffed with kale, pumpkin and quinoa. (A lot of other dishes can also be adapted to satisfy vegetarian diets.)

And about that “forbidden” dish. It’s actually a bowl of sticky rice mixed with pieces of lup cheong, roasted chestnut and dried shrimp then topped with slices of tender pork belly ($13). Its name is derived from the grains of black rice, which were once classified as forbidden by Chinese emperors who believed this type of rice ensured their good health and longevity. Pass the bowl.

Chai’s Waikīkī Hawaiian Fusion, 1910 Ala Moana Blvd., 941.9200, chaiswaikiki.com

Chai’s Waikīkī now offers a host of tapas, including “suicidal chicken” (opposite page), savory chawanmushi (left) and Caprese salad.

“It allows people to share and try a lot more different things.”

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morsels | add a lIttle spIce tO yOur cOcktaIls

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WelcOme tO anOtHer New Year! Keeping up with tipple trends, it is predicted that 2016 will see the continued rise in enthusiasm for, and craft cocktail experimentation with, brown liquors — especially aged libations like bourbon, rye, Scotch, tequila, brandy, Cognac ... and rum. This movement is due, in part, to a continued collective shunning of sweeter tastes in favor of more boldly spiced and assertively flavored spirited concoctions.

In the heart of Jamaica’s lush Cockpit Country, the distillers at the Appleton Estate have been crafting premium rums using time-honored traditions for more than 265 years. With its ideal climate, fertile soil and terrain, along with Estate-grown sugarcane and natural springs supplying water for fermentation and distillation, the unique ‘terroir’ of the Nassau Valley region is key to producing these complexly flavored rums.

This process also includes expert aging and blending, of course. Full-bodied, approachable Appleton Estate Signature Blend is craft-blended from 15 selected and aged rums. With a warm, golden amber glow, its flavor profile includes sweet apricot and peach balanced with light citrus notes, spiced orange peel, molasses and wood. Ideal over ice with a splash of cola, ginger beer or apple cider, its easy-going, smooth flavor makes it a versatile addition to an array of recipes (think cakes to caramel sauces and marinades to barbecue sauces)… and cocktails. For a twist on the traditional, try it in place of the usual bourbon or rye in a Manhattan.

Usher in the New Year with rum-spiked and spiced cocktails. Cheers!

This year, resolve to drink more rum By alison kent

From Jamaica, With love

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This year, resolve to drink more rum By Alison Kent

From Jamaica, With Love

Alison Kent is a food, beverage and travel writer, recipe developer, food stylist, certified chef and bestselling cookbook author with an abundance of culinary experience under her toque. Follow her on Twitter @Alicatchef

Spiced Jamaican Estate DaiquiriMakes: 1 cocktail

This one can be made ahead and

multiplied to be pitcher-sized. Simply pour

and add a garnish at party time.

2 ozs. Appleton® Estate Signature Blend

Jamaica Rum

1 ½ tbsp. fresh lime juice

1 ½ tbsp. Spiced Simple Syrup

(recipe follows)

In a cocktail shaker with ice, combine

rum, lime juice and simple syrup. Shake,

then strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish

with a lime wheel.

Spiced Simple SyrupMakes: about 1 cup

This recipe will yield enough for 10 to 12

cocktails. It can also be doubled or even

tripled, and can be made ahead and kept

tightly sealed in a jar in the refrigerator for

up to 3 weeks.

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

2 whole cloves

½ tsp ground allspice

In a small saucepan, stir water, sugar and

cloves; bring to a boil over medium heat,

stirring occasionally until sugar dissolves.

Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes.

Remove from heat; add allspice and let

stand for 30 minutes. Strain through a

fine-mesh sieve (or line a strainer with a

coffee filter) and let cool completely.

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Tea on Fleek owner Kelli Mukawa is a regular ven-dor at Makers & Tasters. Get ready for new apps.

morsels | TOp culInary Trends FOr 2016

aFrIcan FlavOrs are In. Kale salads not so much. According to the National Restaurant Association (NRA), the hottest food trends to emerge this year include seven newcomers: chef-driven fast-casual concepts; ethnic condiments/spices; authentic ethnic cuisine; artisan butch-ery; fresh/house-made sausage; homemade/arti-san pickles; and street food/food trucks.

Street Grindz co-founders Poni and Brandon Askew are the driving force behind the local food truck scene, having established a monthly Eat the Street event five years ago, followed by Honolulu Night Market and, last August, Makers & Tasters at the old Fisher-man’s Wharf site.

“We want to open six other locations around the island,” says Poni Askew, referring to Makers & Tasters, which she calls a “food park and mar-ketplace.” “I think we’re still in our baby stages and there’s a lot of room for growth and innovation.”

Chicago-based Technomic, the nation’s leading food research and consulting firm, pre-

Trending nowMore assertive flavors, better apps, and craft beers and spirits top the list of 2016 trends. By simplicio paragas

dicts that the restaurant industry will evolve in profound ways, releasing the 2016 Top-10 Food Trends. No. 1 on the list is the increased use of such assertive flavors as ghost pepper from India; sambal from Southeast Asia; gochujang from Korea; harissa, sumac and dukka from North Africa.

Other prevailing trends include the pro-liferation of meatballs and salads, and multi-ethnic dumplings, from pierogis to bao buns; the preparation of under-utilized stewing cuts, organ meats and “trash” species of fish; charred or roasted vegetable sides; and the development of order-and-pay apps and third-party online ordering and delivery services, which will make “dining in” easier than ever and, in some cases, “dining out” a thing of the past.

“We are excited to see how foodservice establishments will incorporate these culinary trends for 2016,” says American Culinary Fed-eration national president Thomas Macrina in a released statement. “Chefs enjoy being creative and many of these trends give them the ability to do what they love: make fresh, delicious food for people to enjoy.”

The top trends in food also extend to the bar, with the hottest alcohol trends including lo-cally produced and crafted beer, wine and spirits. Bob Gunter predicts that the new wave of mix-ologists will lend more exposure to small craft distillers like Koloa Rum. “They take their craft seriously,” says Gunter, Koloa Rum’s president and CEO. “Our rums are versatile; they can be used in cocktails or they can be sipped on over ice. We didn’t want to mimic other products.”

The national restaurant

association’s list of culinary trends include

the use of more ethnic spices and

sauces, and a growing

momentum for food trucks.

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Inside OutO A H U

musingsEntertaining Thoughts

ONCE A NUCLEAR FUSION scientist, Steven Kealohapa‘ole Hong-Ming Wong has taken on the biggest project of his life. And it involves the Big Bang � eory, among other topics, like it has never been explained before — via poetry, dance and even a little bit of Woodstock and Michael Jackson.

”The Story of Everything” sounds like an ambitious production. What inspired it? At the time, four years ago, I was thinking about having a son with my partner and I � gured that one day he would eventually ask me the question “Where do we come from?” My answer is scienti� c and it’s a little complicated and di� cult to grasp all the concepts.

So are you seeking to answer all of life’s questions — as implied by “everything?” As much as I can. � e 90-minute show is broken into six sections, with each one di� erent in approach to content. It covers everything from the Big Bang � eory and the evolution of life to stars and the future.

So how do you plan to explain these complex concepts in a Kealoha poetic way?I want to tell it in a manner that’s exciting and fun, and incorporates music and dance with science. For example, in the solar system portion of the production, each star will be its own discotheque.

Big Bang TheoryPoet reinterprets Stephen Hawking’s

philosophy about the beginning of time



Has this project interfered with your monthly Poetry Slams? Not at all. HawaiiSlam still happens every first Thursday at Fresh Cafe in Chinatown; we’re 12 years old now. It’s still got the same vibe, the same energy and even more people. I’m thoroughly shocked and amused, and surprised and loving that this event has survived and has stood the test of time.

In this age where reading is arguably on the decline, particularly the written word, why do you think poetry can still be relevant?If the average person in our generation, or plus or minus our generation, is looking for something entertaining or content driven or thought-provoking, then it’s our duty as writers, artists or entertainers to put something out there that is relevant to their lives, that does touch them in a way. When you take poetry and put it in a performance-based mechanism, then I think it makes it even more tangible to that quick consumeristic culture.

The world of poetry slams seems to be the antipode of where you first started your career; how different is it from corporate America?It’s night and day. After graduating from MIT with a degree in nuclear physics, I was a business consultant in San Francisco, and played around as a surf instructor prior to becoming a professional poet in 2002.

Do you have any regrets about changing your professional path?Not at all. This is a great career. Nuclear physics will always creep into my writing; there’s a logical deduction, scientific method that’s a part of me that I’ll never be able to squelch. But at least now it’s more balanced with the right side of my brain.

For Kealoha’s upcoming performances, visit kealohapoetry.com.

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out & aboutInside OutO A H U

A quick glance at events and celebrations for the new year

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Colorful EventJanuary 18

It’s called the “Happiest 5K on the Planet” for good reason. And you don’t have to be the fastest run-ner or in the best shape to take part in the Honolulu Color Vibe. This

5K run is more of a competition of hues and tints than it is of time and speed. So grab your whitest out� t and prepare to experience the all-new Tropi-color Zone, where participants will be bathed in a rain-bow of colors. Kids under 12 are free. www.thecolorvibe.com

Dash of Aloha

January 16-18 Bibliophiles and audiophiles won’t want to miss the Friends of the Library of Hawai‘i’s Book & Music Sale at Washing-ton Middle School. Pick through

thousands of CDs, vinyls and gently used books. www.friendsofthe

libraryofhawaii.org

BOOKS AND MUSIC

January 30

Unlike the Western way of celebrating the new year, the Chinese tao is more steeped in traditional rites, with the celebration starting with the new moon on the � rst day and ending with the Lantern Festival 15 days later. Firecrackers will pop and the dragon will snake through the streets of Chinatown to mark the Year of the Monkey, which o� cially starts on Feb. 8. A “Night in Chinatown” will feature food booths and live entertainment on three di� erent stages. � e Chinese New Year’s Parade kicks o� the festivities at 3:30 p.m. on the grounds of the State Capitol. www.nightinchinatown.com

LUNAR YEAR

Since its inception, the Great Aloha Run has been one of Hawaii’s largest participatory race, raising more than $10 million for 150 non-pro� t organizations and community groups throughout Hawai‘i. It has been recognized nationally as one of the top “100 Great Road Races” to participate in by Runner’s World Magazine. www.greataloharun.com FEBRUARY 15

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Heard About Town Here’s what’s trending this month from our bloggers and tweeters. For updates, follow us on Facebook or Twitter:facebook.com/InsideOutHawaii@InsideOutHawaii

“ #Rimowa opening @AlaMoanaCenter with @Tihatiprod dancers.” —@silo808

“Our editor gets a glimpse inside one of the surf houses on the North Shore.” —@InsideOutHawaii

“Sometimes the best things in life are free... find #Free things to do on #Oahu: ow.ly/UtQnn.” —@whereHAWAII

What’s yourNew Year’s resolution?—@Simplicio

Anthony Bourdain on How Not to Get Killed in a Restaurant! —@WhereTraveler

E~OAHIO_160100_7_OUT_ABOUT.indd 17 12/1/15 4:55:27 PM

To eat is human.

To dine at The Kahala is divine.

DIVINEDINING IS

AT THE KAHALA

Honolulu’s Gathering Place

www.AtTheKahala.com

For reservations, call (808) 739.8760

OAHIO_160100_00008-17.indd 17 12/3/15 10:06:59 AM

Into the Blue

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Inside OutO A H U

Into the BlueAquaculture could help replenish our depleting stocks of seafood


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Although living “green” has received much media attention and public support, a “blue” movement has been floating around the past decade

with its proponents advocating sustainable fishing, and farming and harvesting of such species as moi, kampachi, and bigeye and yellowfin tuna in open-water cages.

on hawai‘i island, neil Sims believes it’s his moral imperative to forward sustainable mariculture in hawai‘i with a kampachi project that dates back to 2002. today, the marine biologist continues his research on commercial fish farming, a growing industry that had initially been unjustly criticized in the past by varying environmental non-governmental organizations (ngos).

“Those same ngos now recognize that their anti-aquaculture position was misplaced and misdirected,” says Sims, co-founder of Kampachi Farms, which aims to advance commercial kampachi production through innovative research and scientific discoveries. “We’ve made astonishing advances in the past 10 to 15 years and there has been phenomenal improvement in technology.”

For Sims, open-water farming is an absolute ecological necessity, citing several examples of exploited, depleting and crashing fish stocks in the u.S. and across the globe.

“There are projections that if we don’t manage our fish stocks they will collapse by 2048,” Sims notes. “over the next five years, what i would like to see is a doubling of aquaculture and i think we can do that. i’d like to see more aquacultures in the gulf of Mexico and in federal waters in the Pacific islands.”

Sims further makes the distinction between fishing and aquaculture, defining the former as any fish that’s caught in the wild, as opposed to those raised and harvested in fish farms, ponds and hatcheries, which constitute aquaculture.

According to a report released in 2012 by the WorldFish Center and Conservation international, aquaculture may be one of the most efficient methods of producing protein for the world’s burgeoning population, with potentially less environmental impact than cattle, poultry or pigs. in their study, authors Stephen hall, Anne Delaporte, Michael Phillips, Malcolm Beveridge



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and Mark O’Keefe acknowledge the importance of aquaculture, which is among the fastest growing food production sectors in the world. They estimate that production will reach between 65 million and 85 million tonnes by 2020, and between 79 million and 110 million tonnes by 2030.

“It is apparent from this study that aquaculture has, from an economical efficiency and environmental impact perspective, clear benefits over other forms of animal source food production for human consumption,” the authors conclude. “In view of this, the relative benefits of policies that promote fish farming over other forms of livestock production should be considered.”

Sims agrees, pointing out the three primary salient benefits of aquaculture: 1) from a consumer perspective, consuming more fish can reduce heart disease; 2) from an ocean perspective, we soften our carbon footprint; and 3) from a planetary perspective, farming fish has the least environmental impact than any other terrestrial production.

“There is no significant impact in having pens in the open waters,” Sims says. “This is a total sustainable model.”

One local group was formed in July 2007 to specifically address sustainability within the local fishing/aquaculture industry. The Hawai‘i Seafood Council (HSC) comprises of Hawai‘i fishermen, fishery managers and scientists who are doing

their best in trying to keep our local seafood viable for generations to come.

The nonprofit group supports responsible fisheries and believes that marine fisheries, fishing and seafood are essential to Hawai‘i’s culture, food traditions, diversified economy, food security and healthy lifestyle.

According to fisheries consultant and co-founder of HSC John Kaneko, DVM, the greatest challenge for sustainable fishing is to balance the desire to utilize fishery resources for food and income with the long-term need for maintaining sustainable harvest (catch). Furthermore, he points out that effective fishery management requires: 1) regulatory framework; 2) commitment and delivery on science-based management decisions; 3) establishment of sustainable harvest limits; 4) effective monitoring of fishing activities; 5) effective monitoring of catch; and 6) the capacity to take enforcement action to keep harvest levels within sustainable limits.

But how about those who contend that farm-raised fish are inferior to their wild-caught counterparts? Many local chefs think differently, frequently adding farm-raised kampachi, salmon, ahi and sea bass to their menus.

“I would love to see consumers select responsibly farmed fish,” Sims says. “It’s better for you and it’s better for the planet.”

“Mariculture is agriculture in the ocean. We need to be responsible for the seafood we take from the ocean.”(Opposite page) During an initial offshore “beta test,” Neil Sims inspected fingerlings in a 32-cubic-meter, brass-netted Aquapod, which was attached by a combined towing/umbilical line to the 65-foot schooner S/V Machias.


Family Ties

A staple at a Maebo family picnic or get-together, One-Ton Chips can be eaten on their own or used as a crunchy garnish in a salad.


Inside OutO A H U

Crunchy snack brings back

fond memories

Crunchy snack brings back

Family Ties

By Rizza Cosio Photography by Jennifer Whalen


L ight, crisp, airy and just the perfect balance of sweet and salty. They can be eaten on their own or used as a topping or garnish. Island residents have memorized their flavor and

texture like the grooves of their own tongue. Visitors hoard them to take home as souvenirs. But what most do not know is how the prized One-Ton Chips came to be in a family-run noodle factory in the little old town of Papaikou.

“She was always trying new things,” Blane Maebo says of his grandmother Koto Maebo, who created the One-Ton Chips in 1953 using her husband’s hand-cranked machine that cut dough into noodles. Although her handmade selections of saimin, chow fun and udon were already becoming popular, Koto was constantly in an experimental mood. “She tried shrimp-flavored wonton chips, shrimp chips, taro chips. We even tried li hing mui and a lot of other different flavors but none of them took off at that time,” says Blane, who is now president of the famed Maebo Noodle Factory in Hilo.

It was the early 1950s when Blane’s grandfather took bags of the freshly cooked wonton noodle chips and sold them from his pushcart alongside fruits and vegetables to neighbors and random passersby. “This was before my time,” Blane says. “They used to come in a clear bag about the same size they are now and they were only sold in a handful of stores.”

Now known for their red-and-blue packaging with an Atlas-like body builder standing guard, One-Ton Chips have become a local staple. “They’re everywhere,” Blane says. “In the beginning it was nice to see the chips at stores. It was a sense of satisfaction.” Today, it is a rare occasion that the

chips aren’t found on the shelves of major grocery stores like Safeway, Longs Drugs, Sack N Save, Foodland, and even at local markets like Mini Mart and Wiki Wiki Mart. The snacks are perfect for tailgate parties and can also be found at almost every gas station with a convenience store.

The Kawamoto Store, an old-time okazuya in Hilo, has been a loyal vendor for over five years. “They sell really good,” says owner Celeste Nathaniel, who finds herself restocking almost twice a week. “A lot of locals and visitors come in and see [the bags] and take some with them when they go to the beach or to have with their sushi.”

Aside from just a snack, Nathaniel found other uses for the addictive fried chips. “My sister uses them for salads,” she says. “Instead of croutons or other chow mein noodles, the chips give the Chinese chicken salad a different flavor.”

As a child, Blane enjoyed the chips freshly cooked. “We used to wait for them to come out of the fryer,” he recalls. “They were the best when they were hot.” He remembers hanging around his grandparents when they were still running the business out of a kitchen behind the garage of their small home. “When I was young, I never really thought about how popular they were getting,” Blane says. “All we did was eat the chips and play.”

The 15,000-square-foot factory in Hilo is five times bigger than its humble beginnings. A daily production of 30 to 40 batches yields approximately a couple hundred bags of chips. The operation is run by 16 people comprised of family, friends and long-time workers who have become like ohana, each with an assigned duty.

“We have the ones who make the dough, which is always only family, then those who cook the dough, pack the dough and then we have our drivers,” Blane explains. When asked about the ingredients, Blane pauses. “It’s a secret recipe,” he says. “My grandma taught my dad and my dad taught me. And one day I’ll pass it down to my son.”

Unlike just any family recipe that has been kept “secret” for several generations, this one has made it into most postwar Hawai‘i homes and beyond. As the third generation to adopt the Maebo Noodle Factory, Blane had the torch in his cards all along.

“I actually never really thought about it back then, you know. It was just a way of life for me,” Blane reflects. “But now, I cannot think of anything else I’d rather be doing.”

”

“It’s a secret

recipe. My grandma

taught my dad and my dad taught

me. And one day I’ll pas it down to my son.

Founded in 1950, the Maebo Noodle Factory produces

the popular One-Ton Chips and One-Ton

Chip Cookies.

”

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Inside OutO A H U

JUSTBreatheYoga and health conscious enthusiasts will unwind andbe “mindful” as the annual Wanderlust Festival returns

to the Turtle Bay Resort By Kristen Nemoto

Unlike many � rst-timers to the Hawaiian Islands, Wanderlust Festival’s co-founder Sean Hoess’ initial encounter to the sandy shores of Maui was met with an emergency trip to the hospital.

“I looked down at my foot and there was a giant hole and blood was gushing everywhere,” says Hoess, describing the moment he stepped on a sharp piece of coral. He was just 15 years old then and a huge fan of marine biology. But instead of spending his original plans of frolicking along the beach with his family, Hoess’ newly stitched up foot had to be elevated and most de� nitely out of the water. “� at was my introduction to Hawai‘i,” he laughs.

Despite preliminary shortcomings, fond memories of Hawai‘i remained with Hoess. He loved the natural beauty, sense of adventure and diversity of cultures. Fast forward to 2009 when Hoess and his college buddies, Je� Krasno and Schuyler Grant, hatched a plan to promote



an event that would celebrate music, yoga and nature into a full four-day retreat known as the Wanderlust Festival. They began their endeavor within the mountain ranges of Lake Tahoe, Calif., which quickly snowballed into 18 festivals around the world, including events in Australia, South America and Canada. In 2012, when Hoess was given a chance to conduct Wanderlust at an even greater “remote” destination, he could think of no place other than Hawai‘i.

“I just imagined what [Wanderlust] could be repurposed into with an added plank,” Hoess says. “We always have been known for yoga, meditation and just general mindfulness but never had a place where we could offer a connection to the ocean. It’s something that we thought would really resonate with people. And it has been growing ever since we started.”

Now in its fourth year, Wanderlust O‘ahu returns to the Turtle Bay Resort from Thursday, Feb. 25 to Sunday, Feb. 28. Guests will have a variety of events and activities from which to choose, including hiking, horseback riding, “Speakeasy” discussions, a “sea-to-table” dinner and, of course, yoga classes led by such renowned instructors as Ana Forest, Maty Ezraty, Vinnie Marino, Chad Dennis and Joan Hyman.

Although the Wanderlust Festival is relatively new to the outside world of “non-yogis” and

generally in a nascent stage among loyal yogi disciples, the event is consistent with a decades-old national trend of living healthy. Hoess believes this health-conscious movement has led to the success of the Wanderlust Festival, which attracts people who are interested in bettering themselves in all aspects of mind, body and spirit.

“We really feel like yoga is the vehicle to bringing people together who are seeking those same things in life,” Hoess says. “A big part of this entire experience is who you meet while you are on your mat, or SUP (stand-up-paddle board).”

Whether you’re trying to eat well, interested in growing spiritually or looking to catch a great concert (Citizen Cope and Trevor Hall will perform), the hope for the Wanderlust Festival is to ease your mind and live in the moment for yourself and those around you.

“I think people still have this valid innate need for community and actual human contact, touch and interaction,” Hoess affirms. “Sometimes we forget it as we type away on our Facebook page … During the Wanderlust Festival there’s a feeling of community, which leads people to be less stressed out, kinder and more mindful. You look around at the [Wanderlust Festival] and realize that all the people are in the same situation and state as you; you can feel it. That’s actually the magic that’s made.”

The Wanderlust

Festival attracts

many people who are

interested in bettering themselves

in all aspects of mind,

body and spirit.

The four-day retreat is packed with activities,

from “Speakeasy” discussions and SUP

yoga classes to hooping and slacklining to

concerts and dinners.

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Inside OutO A H U

mauka 2 makaiFrom the mountain to the ocean and everywhere in between

Pound for Pound

The Japanese custom of making mochi has persisted

among generations of families in celebration of the New Year

By Kristen Nemoto

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AccOrdIng tO the mother of Edna Yano, the associate reverend of Konko Mission of Wahiawā, it’s women and children who pound the best mochi. “Because they don’t kill it,” laughs Yano heartily, as she recollects what she and her mother have seen when Konko Mission of Wahiawā has held its annual New Year’s mochi pounding ritual known as mochitsuki.

While others — especially newcomers to the yearly tradition — assume they must hit the white clump of sweet glutinous rice with similar force that one would use to wallop a carnival’s high striker, Yano and her family have concluded otherwise.

“My dad always says you don’t have to use so much strength,” Yano says. “All you have to do is lift it up and let it drop in the center. If you use too much strength, it’ll cut through and it’s not going to knead as well.”

The result, when done properly, yields melt-in-your-mouth smooth rice bulbs, proportioned neatly into round shapes, symbolizing a mirror in Shinto religious practices and the Sun Goddess of Japan: Amaterasu. Like many Japanese families and communities who’ve perpetuated mochitsuki, Konko Mission of Wahiawā has welcomed members and non-members alike to help with the ritual of pounding rice since Dec. 30, 1992.

“That’s my favorite part — seeing so many people,” Yano says. “And everyone is happy, smiling, kind of tired too but it’s all about the fun.”

George Tanabe, a professor emeritus of Japanese religion at the University of Hawai‘i at

Mānoa, condemns the “machine” way of making mochi as it takes away mochitsuki’s “pure practice.”

“Oh just terrible, terrible,” Tanabe chuckles. “I prefer my mochi fresh, and you can’t get it any more fresh than after mochitsuki.”

Along with his many relatives and friends, Tanabe has been practicing mochitsuki since he was a child visiting his grandparent’s house in Laie. Today, the tradition continues at his house in Waialua where he and guests steam the rice over a wood fire, which, when finished, is placed in a stone pot known as an “usu.” Large mallets known as “kine” are then used to rhythmically pound the rice until it’s soft and smooth, using water to prevent it from sticking.

“[Mochitsuki] has always been a communal event,” Tanabe says. “In Shinto religion, [this practice] deals with the blessings of life. Since rice is the staple food in Japan, making mochi is using food to celebrate life and, currently, the New Year. For [our family], it’s a way to continue the tradition, which hasn’t changed much. We’re still doing it the same way.”

As the New Year begins throughout the world, many hope to use this time for renewal and celebration. The Japanese custom of mochitsuki has similarly adhered to that aspiration, especially when it comes to reuniting with old friends and making new ones.

“Some people, I just see them once a year,” Yano says. “They just enjoy this Japanese tradition. I love it when many people from the community come and gather. It makes it that much more enjoyable.”

“I love it when many people from the community come and gather. It makes it that much more enjoyable.”


ins & outsExhibits and events that are soon to close

Inside OutO A H U

COMING SOON Island residents have a lot to look forward to during the months of March and April.

FESTIVAL TIME As it has done for the past 21 years, the Honolulu Festival will promote world harmony by shedding light on various cultures. MARCH 11-13

FIGHTING HUNGERTop chefs will help the Hawai‘i Foodbank during its annual Great Chefs Fight Hunger fundraiser. Enjoy the food and the music. MARCH 16

LAST CHANCE! 4 | Sounds of Hawai‘iAward-winning composer and artist Kuana Torres Kahele will per-form new original music for Kaua‘i, Maui, Ni‘ihau and Hawai‘i Island from his bestselling Music

for the Hawaiian Islands series. Local halau will perform hula specially cho-reographed for the evening at Hawaii � eatre Center. JANUARY10

FOURNOT TO MISS

IN JANUARY& FEBRUARY

For two days, hundreds of volunteers will help stage Punahou School’s annual signature fundraising event. This year’s theme is “Rewind the Time: the Punahou Journey,” which features 60 different booths of games and food — and, of course, thousands of malasadas and jars of mango chutney — rides, and the popular senior class Variety Show and White Elephant Sale. Formerly a student-run organization, the carnival has blossomed into the largest annual fundraiser for the school’s � nancial aid program. www.punahou.edu/ FEBRUARY 5 AND 6

1 I CARNIVAL FUNDRAISER

TEXTILE ART EXHIBITPARSI: SILK & MUSLIN FROM IRAN,

INDIA AND CHINA EXHIBIT AT THE EAST-

WEST CENTER GALLERY. ENDS JANUARY 24

3

RELIGIOUS SATIRE“The Book of Mormon” will � nally make its Hawai‘i debut with a limited, three-week run in Honolulu’s Neal S. Blaisdell Concert Hall. DEBUTS APRIL 13

SPAM JAM Only in Hawai‘i would we celebrate a processed meat that comes in that iconic blue tin can. Join Sir SPAM-a-Lot on Kalākaua Avenue . APRIL 30

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2 I Huddle Up at Aloha StadiumFor football fans, it doesn’t get any more exciting than the NFL Pro Bowl. � e league’s best players go head-to head, while cheerleaders dance and shake their pom poms on the sidelines at the Aloha Stadium. For partygoers and fun-seek-ers, the Pro Bowl Block Party in Waikīkī o� ers a chance to see players o� the � eld. JANUARY 31

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JOB#: RHSC-08322

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LIVE:

110+ SHOPS & RESTAURANTS

DAILY 10AM – 10PM

KALA-KAUA AVE., WAIK

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Free Wi-Fi

Wolfgang’s Steakhouse

P.F. Chang’s Waikıkı

Restaurant Suntory

Okonomiyaki Chibo

Beijing Chinese Seafood

Il Lupino Trattoria & Wine Bar

Doraku Sushi

The Cheesecake Factory

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Pa‘ina Lanai Food Court—

“Rock-A-Hula” - Legends Waikıkı

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Oahu InsideOut Jan/Feb 2016

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