NWGA Congress South Africa · 2013. 8. 2. · NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 6 Company...

Reality with regard to the competitiveness of the wool fibre

30/5/2013

NWGA Congress South Africa

NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 2

Structure

1. Introduction Südwolle Group

2. Exciting and turbulent times equal reality

a) Global Issues

b) Wool Industry Issues

3. Is there a way for a sustainable future?

a) Better information of the public about the wool‘s properties

b) Positive LCA

c) Cooperation is the key

- IWTO

- National Wool Growers‘ Associations

4. Resume


Company Presentation –

Südwolle Group

"As a family business Südwolle

Group is committed to producing

the very best solutions to

customers in a sustainable and

partnership focused manner.”

Klaus Steger

Managing Director



Südwolle Group

• A century of wool and textile innovation and leadership

• Tradition underpinning a modern and dynamic business

• Total of 2,200 employees in 2012

History



Südwolle Group

Brand Structure

Weaving

Flat Knitting

Circular Knitting

(without socks)

Socks

Nature

Texx

Mount

Hesse

Viscose

Open End

Farm

Brand Structure

Corporate

Automotive

Upholstery

Viscose

Airjet



Südwolle Group

• One of the largest manufacturer of worsted wool yarn worldwide

• Offers comprehensive stock range on all standard yarns, wool

and blended covering an extraordinary broad count range from Nm 9 to Nm 120

- Seasonal colour palette

- High quality, single sourced, natural yarn

- Global stock service – 24 hour dispatch

• Location specific auditing and quality control

- Quality

- Efficiency

- Cost

- Environmental accountability

• Capacity and availability of all Südwolle Group brands globally - guaranteed

Features



Südwolle Group

Globally active

• Germany Headquarters Metropolregion Nürnberg

2 warehouses

• Italy Südwolle Group Italy – Distribution center ex Italy

Association with a speciality yarn mill - Biella (Piemont)

• Poland 2 spinning mills (since 1992) – Lodz

• Rumania SWS joined Südwolle Group in 2010 - Simleu Silvaniei

• Great Britain Südwolle Group Great Britain – Distribution center for

England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales

• China Zhangjiagang Yangtse Spinning

Spinning mills (managed under internationally binding

Criteria and quality standards)

DyeCo

Viscose Open End and Air Jet yarns for SOEY brand

• Canada Südwolle Group North America – Distribution center for Canada / USA

• Australia Sheep Farm, Mount Hesse

Europe Rest of the world



Südwolle Group

Südwolle Group can offer yarns under the following certifications:

• bluesign®

Resource

Productivity

Air

Emmission

Occupation

Health & Safety

Water

Emission

Consumer

Safety



Südwolle Group

Further quality certifications which can be offered: • ISO 9001:2000

• OekoTex 100 (class I + II)

• ISO 14001

• GOTS • IVN Best

• EU eco-flower


Structure



a) Global Issues




b) Positive LCA


- IWTO


4. Resume


EMI January 2003 – May 2013


Cotton

May 2003 – May 2013

EUR/kg USD-Cent/lb


Structure



a) Global Issues




b) Positive LCA


- IWTO


4. Resume

Merino Wool

A natural fibre


Merino – a natural fibre



Natural

Merino has an entirely natural fibre grown year-round by approx. 95

million Merino sheep worldwide, consuming a simple blend of water,

air, sunshine and grass.

Biodegradable

Unlike most man-made fibres, when Merino fibre is disposed of it,

naturally decomposes back into the earth in a matter of years. Most

synthetics on the other hand, are extremely slow to degrade.

Renewable

Every year Merino sheep produce a new fleece, making Merino a

completely renewable fibre source.



The structure of a wool fibre

The Performance Fibre

Merino is one of the world‘s most technically advanced

fibres with unique moisture and temperature regulation

properties.

How the unique structure of wool affects its performance

The chemical bonding within a Merino fibre has the effect

of allowing the fibres to pull moisture vapour into them.

Without this effective dispersal system, the vapour simply

condenses to form sweat droplets on the skin‘s surface.

The diagram represents this unique fibre structure of

Merino‘s side chains.



Moisture Management

Merino fibre can absorb up to 35% of its dry weight

in moisture vapour. Therefore, in hot climates or

during strenuous exercise, a Merino garment close

to the skin actively transfers moisture vapour away

from the body.

This causes the micro-climate above the skin to

become less saturated with vapour, thereby making

the wearer less clammy and it‘s less likely for the

vaopur to form sweat droplets on the skin‘s surface.


Merino - a natural fibre

Natural Comfort

Breathability

Temperature Control Anti-Static

Shape Retention

Odour Resistance Naturally Safer Fabric

Easy Care


Structure



a) Global Issues




b) Positive LCA


- IWTO


4. Resume

IWTO

Wool Life Cycle Analysis

Progress Update


IWTO Wool Life Cycle Analysis

The Situation – Wool is badly assessed in

sustainability benchmarking tools


IWTO Wool Life Cycle Analysis

Strategy:

Bridge data gaps & generate consensus - Develop alternate allocation methods for on-farm component

- Evidence wool garment wear life, care process, and recycling

- Establish Standards and Guidelines process

- Produce revised interiors and apparel LCA‘s

- Chemical practices surveyed

Coordinate, Communicate and Engage - Appoint an IWTO Environmental Credentials Coordinator

- Build up relationships with external stakeholders such as Made-By, Sustainable Apparel Coalition and make them

our ambassadors

- Communicate the industry‘s efforts, positive stories and updated LCA data


The Future – What the Wool

Industry will have achieved? 1. Deepened our understanding of wool‘s environmental footprint

2. Achieved recognition that:

- As an industry, wool has invested substantially in documenting its

environmental credentials, from cradle to grave, and continues to do so.

- Wool is a comparatively green fibre, with technical advantages in wear life,

and recycling.

3. Informed consumer-level marketing efforts

4. Established capacity to engage and inform key stakeholders globally


Progress on Wool‘s

Environmental Credentials The development of an updated Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) for wool to enhance wool‘s

environmental credentials is one of IWTO‘s key priorities in 2013. Together with a very

active working group and the Environmental Credentials Coordinator the

Communications and R&D strategy (presented in New York last year) is now being

successfully implemented.

On 16-17 April 2013, the LCA Technical Advisory Group (TAG) held its first meeting in

Sydney kindly organised and hosted by AWI. LCA experts from Australia, China, New

Zealand and the UK developed a strategic plan for collaborative research on data gaps to

be completed with the goal to publish updated LCA data.

Working cloesely together with these organisations is important to ensure that our

stakeholders have a better understanding of wool and that the updated wool LCA data

meets our stakeholder‘s needs and can be implemented smoothly into their systems.


Progress on Wool‘s

Environmental Credentials Besides R&D, the second pillar of the strategy includes communications with the wool

industry‘s stakeholders. The Environmental Credentials Coordinator Rudolp de Jong is

actively engaging with different external stakeholders such as the Sustainable Apparel

Coalition and Made-By.

These organisations have established environmental credential assessment tools based

on LCA data relevant for the textile supply chain such as the Higg Index. LCA data used

for wool is often outdated and old which is negative for wool. Once updated LCA data for

wool is available through the work of the LCA TAG, the new data needs to be included in

the assessment tools to improve wool‘s environmental credentials.

On 13 June 2013 at the IWTO Congress in Biella, the LCA Working Group will present ist

work and progress to date. The session is supported by the EU Commission responsible

for Consumer and Health and delegates can expect a very interesting session.


Structure



a) Global Issues




b) Positive LCA


- IWTO


4. Resume


Resume

If tommorow there was a virus killing all sheep globally overnight, it will most

likely be not noted in an article in the Financial Times.

Not even the textile industry needs wool as a fibre.


Production Share of Fibre

Types Worldwide (2006)


Thank You!

NWGA Congress South Africa · 2013. 8. 2. · NWGA Congress South Africa May 2013 6 Company...

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