10-2013

English EditionInternational Journal for Applied Science

• Personal Care • Detergents • Specialties

S. Wiechers, P. Biehl, B. Jha, J. Meyer

Novel Vegetable based Polyamide Powder forPersonal Care Applications

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■■ Introduction

In personal care polyamide based parti-cles like Nylon 12 powders are commonly used to enhance the haptic properties of cosmetic formulations and also as matti-fying agents in order to reduce the shine on human skin. Due to their porosity these particles are also used to reduce the stickiness and oiliness of cosmetic products during application. Moreover, they can act as binders in pressed pow-der and other types of color formula-tions. Thus, main application areas are color cosmetics, facial care and sun care products. Vast majority of Nylon types that are currently used in the cosmetic industry are derived from petrochemical origins. In the cosmetic industry a strong trend towards more natural and sustainable products can be observed in recent years. There is an increasing demand for in-

s. Wiechers*, P. Biehl, B. Jha, J. meyer

Novel Vegetable based Polyamide Powder for Personal Care Applications

gredients that are based on renewable sources and that are more environmental friendly. Eco-friendly aspects associated with products have an influence on con-sumers’ purchasing decisions, but at the same time they expect products having no drawbacks on performance or cost.

Evonik has developed polyamide particles which are fully based on renewable sourc-es. This paper will illustrate how this novel vegetable based polyamide particle meets the best of both worlds: sustainability and strong application performance like established petroleum based polyamide.

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Sebacic Acid C-10 Diamine Ricinus communis Castor oil

3

HN

O

O

3

NH

Sebacic Acid

C-10 Diamine Nylon 1010

Fig. 1 From Castor oil to final product

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Property Product parameter Source 100% bio-sourced material, castor-

oil derived

Bulk density (g/L) 200

Form Powder

Average particle size ( m) 10

Specific Surface Area (m2/g) BET 6

pH value (dispersed in water) 5.0-7.0

Table 1 General Properties of cosmetic Nylon 1010 powder

■■ General Properties

This unique Nylon 1010 powder for cos-metic applications originates from 100 % renewable sources. This new polyamide grade is based on polyamide 1010, an AABB polyamide, which is the polycon-densation product of 1,10-decameth-ylene diamine and 1,10-decanoic diacid (sebacic acid). Both diamine and diacid are derived from castor oil, making the resulting polyamide 1010 a 100 % vegetable-based polymer (Fig. 1). Ny-lon 1010 particles have a microporous structure, consistent particle size and shape as well as the needed physical properties which makes this powder

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perfectly suitable for the needs of the cosmetic market (Table 1).

■■ Oil Absorption

The oil absorption is determined by gradual addition of oil to the dry pow-der. The high specific surface area of this powder leads to high oil absorption for various types of oils. Nylon 1010 powder provides a high oil absorption, comparable to petroleum based Nylon powders as shown in Table 2.

■■ Mattifying Effect

One benefit of the high oil absorp-tion of Nylon 1010 is the mattifying effect on skin. Measurements have been conducted with a Konica-Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. The delta gloss value is calculated by gloss value of treated skin after 1 and 5 minutes minus gloss value of untreated skin. The results shown in Figure 2 demonstrate the effect in a W/O make-up founda-tion (Table 3) with resp. without Nylon 1010. Cosmetic Nylon 1010 particles clearly mattify the appearance of the skin, the gloss decreases over time while the shine of the skin not treated with Nylon powder remains almost un-changed.

■■ Sensory Assessment

The particle size of Nylon 1010 powder is precisely adjusted in order to impart a pleasant skin feel in cosmetic formu-lations. This can be shown in a sensory evaluation in both O/W and W/O for-mulations.Sensory evaluations showed a reduc-tion in oiliness and stickiness and therefore an overall pleasant after feel when Nylon 1010 is used in cosmetic formulations (Fig. 3a and b). Nylon 1010 is compatible in high concentra-tions in skin care formulations. 7 % of Nylon 1010 in an O/W Eye Care Cream (Table 4) results in a very pronounced effect. The absorption is increased and the oily residue is drastically reduced. The after feel is less sticky and less

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-3

-2

-1

0delta gloss after 1 min delta gloss after 5 min

No Nylon particles3% Nylon 1010

delta gloss after 1 min delta gloss after 5 min

delta

glo

ss

Fig. 2 Mattifying Effect of Nylon 1010 in W/O Make-up Foundation

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The oil absorption is measured in the uptake of g(oil)/g(polyamide powder)

Nylon type Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isopropyl Myristate

Mineral Oil

Cyclopenta-siloxane

Nylon 10101) 0.84 0.75 0.79 0.92

Nylon 122) 0.94 0.85 0.73 1.21

Nylon 123) 0.85 0.70 0.73 0.94

Table 2 Oil absorption of polyamide powders

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0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

Sc

ore

No Nylon Particles

7% Nylon 12

7% Nylon 1010

Directly after application After feel 5 min after application

Fig. 3a Sensory profile – O/W Eye Cream

Fig. 3b Sensory profile – Natural W/O Body Lotion

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0123456789

10

Scor

e

No Nylon particles

3% Nylon 12

3% Nylon 1010

Directly after application After feel 5 min after application

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waxy compared to the same formula-tion without Nylon particles (Fig. 3a). Even at a lower use level of 3 % and a higher oil phase content in a W/O formulation (Table 5) Nylon 1010 has a significant impact on the absorption and leads to an overall pleasant, less oily and less sticky skin feel (Fig. 3b). Like Nylon 12 particles, the vegetable sourced Nylon 1010 particles provide an excellent sensory profile in various formulations.

■■ Sustainability Aspects

Cosmetic Nylon 1010 powder is pro-duced with bio-based components. The origin from biomass is certified.4) A life cycle assessment5) confirmed that Nylon 1010 reduces global warming potential (kg CO2-equivalent/kg Nylon) by nearly 50 % compared to conventionally pro-duced Nylon 12 particles.

■■ Formulation hints

Nylon 1010 particles can be easily com-bined with other powders and pigments.In powder-based foundations or color cosmetics, Nylon 1010 particles can be incorporated around 80 °C in the oil/pigment mixture. Nylon 1010 is suit-able for both W/O and O/W formula-tions. Especially when preparing O/W emulsions, it is recommended to add Nylon 1010 powder below 40 °C to the combined phases and homogenize for a short time.

■■ Applications

Nylon 1010 particles can be utilized in both oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions, as well as in water-free formulations. Possible applications in-clude:

• Make-upfoundation

• Looseorpressedcosmeticpowder

• Compactfoundation

• Eyeshadow

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Processing:

1. Heat phase A to 80 °C.

2. Add phase B to phase A and homogenize.

3. Add phase C to phase AB slowly while stirring.

4. Homogenize.

5. Add phases D and Z under 30 °C while stirring.

Remarks:

Formulation has been tested with 0.7% Saliguard MEPX (Salycilates) as preservative.

Table 3: W/O Make-up Foundation

Phase Product name, INCI w/w % w/w% comparison

A ISOLAN® GPS (Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate) 3.00 3.00

Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.25 0.25

Ozokerite 0.25 0.25

TEGOSOFT® DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) 10.00 10.00

TEGOSOFT® AC (Isoamyl Cocoate) 8.00 8.00

B Titanium Dioxide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone,

Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Alumina (MiBrid SA/NAI TR-10/D5, Miyoshi Kasei) 7.70 7.70

Red Iron Oxide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone,

Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Alumina (MiBrid SA/NAI R-10/D5, Miyoshi Kasei) 0.53 0.53

Yellow Iron Oxide, Cyclopentasiloxane,

Dimethicone,

Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Alumina (MiBrid Y-10/D5, Miyoshi Kasei) 1.60 1.60

Black Iron Oxide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone,

Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Alumina (MiBrid SA/NAI B-10/D5, Miyoshi Kasei) 0.30 0.30

C Water 58.67 58.67

Glycerin 3.00 3.00

Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 1.00 1.00

D TEGOLON® ECO 10-10 5.00

Talc 5.00

Z Preservative, Perfume q.s. q.s.

Table 5 Natural W/O Body Lotion

Table 4 O/W Eye Cream

Table 3 W/O Make-up Foundation

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• Eyecream

• Serums

• Men´sCare

• FacialCare

• SunCare

■■ Summary

Cosmetic Nylon 1010 powder by Evonik is fully based on renewable sources, which addresses the needs of modern consumer products. Nylon 1010 particles can provide all known high performance benefits of established petroleum based

Nylon 12 particles in personal care appli-cations. Hence, it is an interesting option for all types of emulsions, from natural formulations and beyond.

1) TEGOLON® ECO 10-10 (Evonik Industries AG)

2) TEGOLON® 12-20 (Evonik Industries AG)

3) Orgasol 2002 EX D NAT COS (Arkema)

4) Certified per DIN ISO 10694;1996-08 and by

the USDA’s BioPreferred® program

5) Calculated cradle-to-gate incl. CO2 uptake of

the vegetable source and without Land Use

(Change) Emissions. Reference year: 2010;

evaluation: CML2001, Nov. 2009

Author’s address: Evonik Industries AGDr. Susann WiechersGoldschmidtstr. 100

45127 EssenGermany

susann.wiechers@evonik.com

■

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