Notes on anObsession

by Olivier Dupon

• January 2018 •

Each month in this column, I will share my se-cret jewellery discoveries with you; a selec-tion of up to five jewellery pieces based on their craftsmanship and inspiring creativity. Only one-of-a-kind (or limited edition) jew-els, chosen from all around the world, will make the cut. It is not about value (pieces could start from a few thousands up to mil-lions), yet these pieces could be as much a good financial investment as an emotion-al one. There will be no theme other than uniqueness in all aspects. It is exclusively on Deluxe Pad for you to peruse, appreciate and eventually make your own.

Olivier Dupon

Notes on an Obsession

There was a time when foldaway spectacles were the fashionable theatregoers accessories; useful to hide behind when having a close look at what was happening on stage as well in the audience. Now it seems that with the ‘Broadway Glasses by Harry Winston’ – the highlight of their recent high jewellery timepieces – one might be the evening’s centre of attention. “To create this feminine accessory, the designers married the sophisticated decoration and elegant long handle of the classic lorgnette, with select design features of vintage cameras. These were then combined with the magnifying power of binoculars to create a product that is at once beautiful and practical”, the Harry Winston team says. The timepiece is almost the cherry on the top of a sublime object that may well overshadow the actual stars of the show.

www.harrywinston.com

Notes on an ObsessionJanuary 2018

‘Broadway Glasses by Harry Winston’ whose case is in 18K white gold and onyx, sapphire crystal with anti-re ective coating on both sides, 4 baguette-cut emeralds (approx. 0.24ct), 1 cabochon-cut emerald (approx. 0.99ct) / whose dial is in 18K white gold base and invisible setting of 48 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 2.55cts) / whose binoculars are in 18K white gold, onyx and titanium set with 240 brilliant-cut diamonds (13.68cts), 150 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 7.30cts) / whose handle is in 18K white gold and onyx set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.44cts), 14 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 0.91ct); High Jewelry Timepieces Collection. POA.

Notes on an ObsessionJanuary 2018

The Universe Collection by Nikos Koulis was introduced in 2017 and it keeps growing with the constant addition of new pieces such as this recent resplendent one-of-a-kind necklace that highlights more than any other piece in the collection the use of translucent, clear enamel, an innovative signature technique developed by Koulis’s workshop. As in most of Koulis’s recent work, diamond cuts that emphasise crisp geometry have been used and black enamel is the material of choice to create glossy lines with a rhomboid surface. However, in the Universe Collection, it is the inclusion of clear enamel, which brings a gentle translucence that offsets the ensemble’s sharpness, that is the hero.

www.nikoskoulis.com

‘One-of-a-kind Universe Line Necklace’ in clear and black enamel set with approx. 23 carats of white diamonds (or 10.42 carats of pear shape white diamonds, 5.57 carats of emerald-cut white diamonds, and 6.88 carats of brilliant-cut white diamonds), Universe Collection. POA.

Notes on an ObsessionJanuary 2018

Cuff and Ring in 18K rose gold with black jade, malachite and diamonds; Sauvage Privé collection. POA.

Sauvage Privé is Roberto Coin’s latest collection and quite a departure from his usual figurative style. Here we are squarely in architectural territory coupled with minimalism, a far cry from his animalistic creations, which abound with realistic details. This direction has been helped by Coin’s vision of what “the characteristics of the woman of the future” could be. All of Sauvage Privé renditions have a torque design, with one end more prominent than the other. The shape of those ends is not perfectly geometrical, and they are rather uneven (a convex surface, different heights on each facets) so much so that there is a vital force to the design. Truth be told, the horse’s hoof was Coin’s inspiration and this explains how Sauvage Privé has the same powerful allure as a stallion.

www.robertocoin.com

The duality within each of Ara Vartanian’s renditions plays on darkness (in-verted diamonds with their spiky end up, bezels shaped as claws, strong volumes, deep colour contrasts with black making a frequent appearance) versus joyfulness (marquise and round brilliant cuts, vibrant colourways thanks to the likes of rubies, emeralds, Paraiba tourmalines) to such an ex-tent that each piece bears a luxurious operatic force. Under Vartanian’s spell, earrings, bracelets and rings literally latch onto or wrap around the limbs; they become an extension of self rather like those superhero shields or cuffs. Take the featured bracelet with a large tanzanite that is like a watchful eye with its purplish hypnotising depth.

Stockist – Ara Vartanian, 44 Bruton Place, W1J 6PB 020 7493 4751

www.aravartanian.com

Notes on an ObsessionJanuary 2018

Earrings in 18K white gold set with tanzanites

(29.78cts), brown (2.77cts) and white diamonds

(3.99cts). POA.Bracelet in 18K white gold set with one 49.46-carat tanzanite, black (11.29cts) and white (4.36cts) diamonds. POA.

Notes on an ObsessionJanuary 2018

Ananya is a young fine jewellery brand whose founder is on a brave mission: “celebrating and rediscovering the profoundly personal meaning behind jewellery; the stories that become attached to it over the course of its ownership; its power to connect emotionally with the wearer; and its role as an external reflection of their internal spirit. For Ananya, each piece is a repository for meanings and emotional associations that grow ever stronger with time”. This strong spiritual component is accompanied by explanations on how one can benefit from the gemstones used; but of course this could all be for nothing if the designs were not also impeccable. Throughout the six existing collections (this includes a bespoke service), strong Art Deco lines and a careful positioning of colour accents emerge. This is contemporary Indian fine jewellery at its universal best.

www.ananya.com

‘Celeste Ear Jackets’ (left) in 18K white gold set with round white diamonds, Iolite and Kynite, and adorned with white freshwater pearls; (centre) in 18K white and rose gold set with round white diamonds, a rose gold layered ear jacket adorned with round white freshwater pearls and finished with pink tourmaline cabochons; (right) in 18K white and yellow gold set with round white diamonds and tsavorites, a yellow gold layered ear jacket adorned with round white freshwater pearls and finished with emerald cabochons; all Celestial Lotus collection. POA.

‘Celeste Dark Lotus Ring’ in 18K white gold, and composed of inlayed couture cut black onyx and round white diamonds presenting a London Topaz cabochon; Celestial Lotus collection. POA.