Notes on anObsession

by Olivier Dupon

• September 2019 •

Each month in this column, I will share my secret jewellery discoveries with you; a se-lection of more or less five jewellery piec-es based on their craftsmanship and inspir-ing creativity. Only one-of-a-kind (or limited edition) jewels, chosen from all around the world, will make the cut. It is not about val-ue (pieces could start from a few thousands up to millions), yet these pieces could be as much a good financial investment as an emotional one. There will be no theme oth-er than uniqueness in all aspects. It is exclu-sively on Deluxe Pad for you to peruse, ap-preciate and eventually make your own.

Olivier Dupon

Notes on an Obsession

The Mediterranean Sea is De Grisogono’s home turf in so many respects. So much so that the high jewellers’ self-published mag-azine is titled Mediterraneo, most of their launches and glamourous parties take plac-es in sought-after Mediterranean hotspots (Cannes and Porto Cervo, Sardinia), and their creations often evoke sunset and stargazing over cocktails. No wonder then that the new capsule collection is entirely dedicated to Mare Nostrum; by name, the three pieces are called Mediterranean Jewels, and by design. The high jewellery necklace, ring and ear-rings are a tribute to sun, sea and sensuality. Although sold separately, they form a match-ing set with flawless blue turquoises as main stones, the ultimate ‘dolce vita’ gem along-side coral. The turquoise hue of the cabo-chons is complemented by purple amethysts and pink sapphires in the neckpiece and ring, and by emeralds and blue sapphires for the earrings. While the former borrow from the fan shape of the iconic Ventaglio collection, the earrings embrace the signature intertwin-ing motif so dear to the high jeweller. In oth-er words, the triumvirate is unmistakeably de Grisogono all the while offering the therapeu-tic qualities of the turquoise stone, a purvey-or of well-being par excellence.

Notes on an ObsessionSeptember 2019

www.degrisogono.com

One pair of earrings in 18K white gold set with one 5.39-carat D / IF, Type IIA pear-shaped diamond (GIA certified), one 6.03-carat D / IF, Type IIA pear-shaped diamond (GIA Certified), 2 zirconium free form (8.10cts) and 127 brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

Haute Joaillerie Ring: one-of-a-kind ring in 18K white gold set with a turquoise cabochon

(approx. 18.08cts), 18 white diamonds (approx. 2.35cts), 49 pink sapphires (approx. 3.519cts) and 131 amethysts (approx. 8.61cts);

Mediterranean Jewels. POA.

Haute Joaillerie Earrings: one-of-a-kind earrings in 18K white gold and titanium set with 2 turquoise drops (approx. 66.84cts), 418 emeralds (approx. 7.01cts) and 480 blue sapphires (approx. 11.69cts); Mediterranean Jewels. POA.

Haute Joaillerie Necklace: one-of-a-kind necklace in 18K white gold set with 11 turquoise cabochon (approx. 276.45cts), 217 pink sapphires (approx. 2.64cts), 228 amethysts (approx. 3.74cts) and 563 white diamonds (approx. 27.54cts); Mediterranean Jewels. POA.

www.degrisogono.com

Notes on an ObsessionSeptember 2019

You can count on Van Cleef & Arpels to make the most of legends and tales to create mes-merising high jewellery pieces. Following the memorable collection, Romeo & Juliet, (re-viewed in PART IV of my haute joaillerie report) comes a capsule series of eight high jewellery timepieces, each a homage to “a legendary couple from literature, mythology and opera”. Naturally most of these one-of-a-kind won-ders bear all the mysterious and so technical-ly complex attribute of secret watches. In my

opinion, the designers and craftsmen (a.k.a. Mains d’Or or men with a Midas touch) of Van Cleef & Arpels have surpassed themselves here with each rendition being an intricate marquetry of metal and precious gemstones. The bracelets are masterpieces and even the secret watches themselves reveal astonish-ing details. Take the Aïda & Radamès creation (there are indeed two watches to honour this antique couple) where the dials of the time-pieces are paved with little fishes either in

Notes on an ObsessionSeptember 2019

www.vancleefarpels.com

One pair of earrings in 18K white gold set with one 5.39-carat D / IF, Type IIA pear-shaped diamond (GIA certified), one 6.03-carat D / IF, Type IIA pear-shaped diamond (GIA Certified), 2 zirconium free form (8.10cts) and 127 brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

Aïda & Radamès Secret Watch in 18K yellow gold, 18K white gold and 18K rose gold set with one cushion-cut blue sapphire of 5.59 carats (Madagascar), two pear-shaped blue sapphires for 4.37 carats, two pear-shaped purple sapphires for 1.53 carats, blue sapphires, green tourmalines, lapis lazuli, white mother-of-pearl, and diamonds, quartz movement; Mythical Couples High Jewellery Watches. POA.

Aïda & Radamès Secret Watch in 18K white gold and 18K rose gold set with one cushion-cut pink sapphire of 5.93 carats (Madagascar), sapphires, lapis lazuli, turquoise and diamonds, quartz movement; Mythical Couples High Jewellery Watches. POA.

lapis lazuli with white mother-of-pearl or la-pis lazuli with turquoise. Or the Aphrodite & Adonis secret watch where pink and mauve sapphires make for delicate petals that en-fold the timepiece. Unless it is a technical feat with rare gemstones, i.e. Mystery Set emer-alds, that shields the watch from prying eyes

as seen in the Philémon & Baucis iteration. Of course, each component, gemstone or type of setting is here to serve each amorous tale and I invite you to contact your Van Cleef & Arpels ambassadors to learn more about the interpretation behind each one of these mag-nificent works of art for your wrist.

Notes on an ObsessionSeptember 2019

www.vancleefarpels.com

One pair of earrings in 18K white gold set with one 5.39-carat D / IF, Type IIA pear-shaped diamond (GIA certified), one 6.03-carat D / IF, Type IIA pear-shaped diamond (GIA Certified), 2 zirconium free form (8.10cts) and 127 brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

Aphrodite & Adonis Secret Watch in 18K yellow gold, 18K white gold and 18K rose gold set with blue, pink and mauve sapphires, white and grey mother-of-pearl and diamonds, quartz movement; Mythical Couples High Jewellery Watches. POA.

Philémon & Baucis Secret Watch in 18K white gold, 18K yellow gold and 18K rose gold set with traditional Mystery Set emeralds, two pear-shaped emeralds for 2.88 carats (Zambia), sapphires and diamonds, quartz movement; Mythical Couples High Jewellery Watches. POA.

Notes on an ObsessionSeptember 2019

To mark the 20th anniversary of Dior Joaillerie, Victoire de Castellane has certain-ly been busy. First, the new high jewellery collection Gem Dior, which was reviewed in our high jewellery PART II report published earlier, has the largest number of pieces (99) ever recorded for a Dior jewellery collec-tion. It is now followed by a new jewellery launch, a series of rings on steroids – Rose Dior Pop – designed by de Castellane. In ad-dition, another launch is worth noting: the Dior Grand Bal collection welcomes three new timepieces.

The former is a take on the rose (Monsieur Dior’s favourite flower) paired with one of Castellane’s preferred techniques (lacquer) and lavished with saturated colourations. The five petals of each ring are covered with either violet, blue, green, pink or red lacquer; their edges are paved with white diamonds and their centre holding a single colour-matched gemstone (except for two renditions with a contrasting white diamond). The band of the rings echoes the Bois de Rose creations, a thorny yet harmless stem that wraps around one’s finger like a wild bramble twig.

www.dior.com

Rose Dior Pop Pink Sapphire ring in 18K white and pink gold, set with diamonds, pink sapphire and pink lacquer by Dior Joaillerie; Rose Dior Pop. POA.

Rose Dior Pop Tsavorite Garnet ring in 18K white, pink and yellow gold, set with diamonds, tsavorite garnet and green lacquer by Dior Joaillerie; Rose Dior Pop. POA.

Rose Dior Pop Purple Garnet ring in 18K white and pink gold, set with diamonds, purple garnet and purple lacquer by Dior Joaillerie; Rose Dior Pop. POA.

Notes on an ObsessionSeptember 2019

www.dior.com

Rose Dior Pop Sapphire ring in 18K white and pink gold, set with diamonds, sapphire and blue lacquer by Dior Joaillerie; Rose Dior Pop. POA.

Rose Dior Pop ring in 18K white and pink gold, set with diamonds and red lacquer by Dior Joaillerie; Rose Dior Pop. POA.

DIOR GRAND BAL PLUME WILD Watch in steel with yellow gold, diamonds, zoisite and feathers by Dior Watches; limited edition of 88 pieces; Dior Grand Bal. POA.

Rose Dior Pop Pink Ruby ring in 18K white and pink gold, set with diamonds, ruby and red lacquer by Dior Joaillerie; Rose Dior Pop. POA.

Rose Dior Pop Emerald ring in 18K white, pink and yellow gold, set with diamonds, emerald and green lacquer by Dior Joaillerie; Rose Dior Pop. POA.

Notes on an ObsessionSeptember 2019

The other launch of three new Dior Grand Bal Plume watches proposes new mod-els in 36mm, combining the “authenticity of ornamental stones with the elegance of black feathers”. Naturally, the black feathers are set on the patented oscillating weight that sways in unisson with the stone dial,

a signature of that collection, and part of the automatic movement, exclusive to the Maison Dior, the Dior Inversé 11 1⁄2” calibre.

These splendid designs prompt the question of how roses and feathers as seen through the eyes of today’s Dior would have inspired French poet Pierre de Ronsard.

www.dior.com

Rose Dior Pop Paraiba Tourmaline ring in 18K white and pink gold, set with diamonds, Paraiba-like tourmaline and blue lacquer by Dior Joaillerie; Rose Dior Pop. POA.

DIOR GRAND BAL PLUME Watch, 36mm automatic in steel with white gold, diamonds, turquoise, mother-of-pearl and feathers by Dior Watches; limited edition of 88 pieces; Dior Grand Bal. POA.

DIOR GRAND BAL PLUME Watch, 36mm automatic in steel with pink gold, white gold, diamonds, tiger eye

stone and feathers by Dior Watches; limited edition of 88

pieces; Dior Grand Bal. POA.

It is a case of avian metaphors. On one hand, the use of the rarest and most sought-after type of ruby in the world: a ‘pigeon’s blood’ ruby from Burma, whose weight of 2.60 carats is most impressive for a select ruby of such a high level of quality. Rubies that belong to that pres-tigious category have “a harmonious nat-ural colour shade and a high fluorescence thanks to which a magical radiance shines forth from within. In order to qualify for this trade name, the rubies are analysed by the world’s most renowned institutes, includ-ing the Gübelin Gem Lab, based on those strict quality criteria”.

On the other hand, a design inspired by the inner world of the chosen ruby that “re-minded Gübelin Jewellery designers of the magnificent plumage of a peacock”. The resulting pattern serves a multi-purpose creation, both a ring or a pendant, and it is a true three dimensional construct: tiers of diamond-paved ovals symmetrically lay on each other as in a pagoda or perhaps as overlapping feathers, with the tipping point being crowned by the oval-cut ru-by. Bluish grey sapphires are positioned inside each of the ovals evoking the shim-mering eyes of peacock feathers. In that respect, this latest beauty by the House of Gübelin is named ‘Eyes of Burma’.

Notes on an ObsessionSeptember 2019

Eyes of Burma in 18K red gold set with one 2.60-carat ‘pigeon’s blood’ ruby from Burma, sapphires and diamonds. POA.

www.gubelin.com

Notes on an ObsessionSeptember 2019

Symbols. I believe that the world of jewellery has continuously been the best area for the interpretation of symbols. Think of all the motifs that are regularly used and re-imag-ined…Bows, arrows, snakes, flowers, feath-ers, evil eye, or astral symbols, a category that is particularly appreciated for its talis-manic quality. Take the moon or crescent, highly evocative of femininity and wisdom, and now benefiting from a modern approach in the hands of Fabergé’s design team. The three-piece capsule collection makes the most of the crescent shape in gold with a rib-like carved outer contour and a paving of

diamonds in the inner part. An emerald-stud-ded star faces the convex figure in what is a marriage made in heaven. This pairing com-poses a ring, earrings and a pendant neck-piece. In the latter, the tips of the crescent actually join at the verdant star to form a complete circle. It is interesting to note that there is a specific reason why Fabergé picked this symbol in the first place; a love story that harks back to the jeweller’s own history. “In the early 1960s, a mysterious former French secret service officer, Charles Antoine Roger Luzarche d’Azay, gave his collection of 18 ex-quisite Fabergé cigarette cases to the Musée

www.faberge.com

Crescent Earrings in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds and one round-cut emerald (Gemfields). POA.

Crescent Ring in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds and one round-cut emerald (Gemfields). POA.

September 2019

des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Years later, friends of M. Luzarche d’Azay explained that Charles had been desperately in love with the glamor-ous French aristocrat Princess Cécile Murat, who was already married. Fabergé was in-spired by his devotion and by the enigmat-ic symbols that decorate the cases, includ-ing crescent moons and a golden map of the Nile with coloured gems marking cities along its course.” The Fabergé Crescent Pendant, Fabergé Crescent Ring and Fabergé Crescent Earrings were launched last month and are available exclusively at the Fabergé conces-sion in Harrods, the Fabergé boutique in the Dubai Mall, and online at faberge.com.

www.faberge.com

Crescent Pendant necklace in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds and one round-cut emerald (Gemfields). POA.

Notes on an Obsession