*NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary FOLD ... · Topstitch Tension and Formation...
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Left and right front bottom hems should align on each other and be balanced at center. (Tolerance -+ 1/8”) Excessive curling of hem is not acceptable. Excessive roping is not acceptable. Repairs must not be visible, all thread tails must be trimmed and have no heavy concentration of back-tacking. Frayed yarns must be trimmed within 1/8”. Frayed yarns must be secure by stitching. Frayed yarns must be warp yarns only. Nosing at the start and finish of hem must align to the edge of the fronts, and not exceed 1/8”. EXAMPLE: Nosing at start and finish. Bottom hems must be circular / post hemmed. 1/4” or under - Hem Construction Not Acceptable Straight hems 1/2” or greater should have no less than 3/8” turned under. Bottom Hem Construction Standards Not Acceptable Ends of Bottom hem must be closed by 1/16” SN/Edge stitch Two to three stitch back-tack is required at start and finish on hem. Thread nests are unacceptable. Sewing threads should be trimmed within an 1/8”. Tail Contour must be consistent from left to right front. Tolerance 1/4” Straight hems 1/2” or greater must have ends 1/16” edge stitched closed D E B A C 1 3/4” 1 1/2” 1/16” Box Pleat, Yoke Seam & Locker Loop Requirements BOX PLEAT, YOKE SEAM & LOCKER LOOP REQUIREMENTS A minimum Yoke Seam of 3/8” is required. Top stitch on Yoke Seam is to be an Edge Stitch, not to exceed 1/16”. Edge stitch must not run off. Label Yoke is to be flipped back and not caught in the Topstitch. Topstitch Tension and Formation must lay flat and be pucker free. Back/Yoke Seam requires 12 to 14 Stitches Per Inch, 14 to 16 SPI on Apt 9 (if applicable). LOCKER LOOP REQUIREMENTS FOR 1 1/2” PLEAT Locker Loop is to be inserted in Yoke Seam 5/16”. Tolerance +0” / -1/8”. Length of Locker Loop after inserted should be 1 7/8” Tolerance +1/4” / -0”. Finished Dimensions of Locker Loop before inserted should be no less than 2 5/8” L X 1/8” W. BOX PLEAT REQUIREMENTS These requirements will also apply to Inverted Box Pleats. Box Pleat (A) to measure as specified on the Product Specifications. Tolerance +/- 1/16”. Box Pleat must be centered on the back/Yoke seam. (Msmt. Pts. B & C) Tolerance +/- 1/8”. Box Pleat must touch but not overlap at the center. Tolerance +/- 1/16”. Box Pleat to be proportioned equally from center of pleat to the outer edges. (Msmt. Pts. D & E) Tolerance +/- 1/16”. All seams must be free of frays, and broken stitches. (1 1/2” Box Pleat - Example) Button Upper Placket Under Placket Upper Placket Thickness Shank Height of button attach needs to match thickness of the upper placket. Should not exceed thickness. Button hole should be a minimum of 1/8” longer then button. Knife should cut from bar to bar, no more than 1/16” left uncut inside buttonhole Width or needle throw of buttonhole stitch should be adjusted so buttonhole stitch is as close to the knife as possible to reduce frayed yarns. The needle throw may need to be adjusted due to the fabrication or thickness of the placket Minimum throw width is 3/64” 5/64” width to be used on fabrics such as Knit Pique or Woven Flannels Buttonholes should be cleanly cut with no untrimmed warp or wale yarns or badly frayed weft or course yarns Unless specified as parallel stitch, all button sewing is to be a locking cross stitch. 16 stitch count minimum Buttonhole & Button Sewing Requirements Button sewing thread tails should be trim to be no more than 1/16” in length. No looping threads or bulky thread nests *NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary 1/8” OR FURTHER FROM EDGE Front Center Placket Description & Requirements Anchored by Buttonhole FOLD TO THE FACE SIDE FRONT PLACKET CUT ON FRONT PLACKET CUT OFF FRONT PLACKET FOLD BACK FRONT (TO THE BACK) PLACKET FULL WRAP OR DOUBLE FOLD PLACKET SINGLE FOLD FRONT PLACKET Only used on fabric that does not have a right or wrong side, not to be used on Apt 9. Normally interlined, but can be optional. Chain or Lock stitch used for top stitch. Only use on solid fabric or pattern repeats of a 1/4” or less. Normally interlined. Chain stitch used for Top stitch. Used on all fabrics with a pattern repeat of 1/4” or more. Common or engineered centerline needs to be established prior to production. Centerline must be used on both upper and under front, so pattern repeat is consistent. Normally Interlined. Chain stitch used for Top stitch. Also used for under front hem. Normally interlined. Chain or lock stitch used for Top stitch. Usually stitched at outer edge of placket to secure inner cut edge of front. Can also be clean finished with no top stitch. Depending on fabric, raw edge should be secured with overlock safety stitch, if not fused. Fused interlining applied to inside edge of fold. Raw edge must be secured with overlock safety stitch. Usually unlined, but can be made using a fusible interlining that is fused to the inside edge. Overlock still required. Anchored by Buttonhole *NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary Men’s Woven Dress Shirt Exra Button Requirements FACE SIDE OF FABRIC LAST BTN UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC LAST BTN THREAD POST CROFT & BARROW DRESS SHIRTS Extra buttons sewn to face side of the under front (men’s right front) Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/8” apart. Thread to match button Button Cluster centered between bottom hem and last functional front button APT 9 DRESS SHIRT & DRESSY CASUALS Extra buttons sewn to under side of the under front (men’s right front) Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/8” ` apart. Thread to match or blend with fabric Button cluster centered between bottom hem and last functional front button All thread tails must be trimmed to be no longer then 1/8” . Excessive thread nests or long loops are not acceptable. Refer to spec for extra button requirement Extra button alignment needs to be uniform Buttons to be lockstitched Buttons to be cross stitched unless two hole 16 stitch minimum Thread shanks not required on extra button EXTRA BUTTON COUNT FOR CROFT & BARROW & APT 9 DRESS & DRESSY CASUALS BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 2 SMALL BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALL NON-BD COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALL NON-BD COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE, NO SMALL Button cluster center Button cluster center *NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary Men’s Woven Sport Shirt Extra Button Requirements UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC LAST BTN THREAD POST UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC LAST BTN THREAD POST SPORT/CASUAL SHIRTS WITH FOLD BACK UNDERFRONT HEM Extra buttons sewn to under side of the under front (men’s right front) Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/4” apart. Thread to match or blend with fabric Button cluster centered between bottom hem and last functional front button If only two buttons are required, top button is centered, other is set below SPORT SHIRTS WITH DOUBLE FOLD OR SINGLE FOLD BACK FRONT PLACKETS Extra buttons sewn to under side of the under front PLACKET only, not through face side of front Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/4” apart. Thread can match button or blend with fabric Button cluster centered between bottom hem and last functional front button If only two buttons are required, top button is centered, other is set below All thread tails must be trimmed to be no longer then 1/8” . Excessive thread nests or long loops are not acceptable. Refer to spec for extra button requirement Extra button alignment needs to be uniform Buttons to be lockstitched Buttons to be cross stitched unless two hole 16 stitch minimum Thread shanks not required on extra button EXTRA BUTTON COUNT FOR CROFT & BARROW, HAWK SONOMA, URBAN PIPELINE, APT 9 SPORT SHIRTS BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 1 LARGE & 2 SMALL BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALL NON-BD COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 1 LARGE & 1 SMALL NON-BD COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE, NO SMALL Center of cluster Center of cluster Sleeve Pleats Construction SLEEVE PLEATS POSITION OF FIRST PLEAT - 2” in from outer edge of placket - Tolerance 1/8” POSITION OF SECOND PLEAT - 2 1/2” or as specified from outer edge of placket - Tolerance 1/8” DEPTHS OF PLEATS - 1/2” or as specified. - Tolerance - + 1/8” or as specified PLEATS ARE TO UNIFORM, AND SHOULD NOT OVERLAP, - Tolerance 1/8” PLEAT PLACEMENT MUST BE CONSISTENT FROM LEFT TO RIGHT SLEEVE. 2” 3/4” 2 1/2” 1 7/8” Pleat placement field of tolerance Distance between point of epaulet should be maintained on all sizes Tolerance +/- 1/4” Epaulet width must be maintained from shoulder to shoulder +/- 1/16“ Epaulet length from shoulder to shoulder must be maintained at the same length Tolerance +/- 1/8” Epaulet must always be set into armhole, unless called out. Epaulet should be sewn down with Armhole stitch, unless called out. Epaulet should lay flat and must not gap between button and armhole stitching. SHOULDER EPAULET SETTING AND GRADING WOVEN SHIRTING BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLE SIZES AND STITCH SETTINGS BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE SIZES & STITCH SETTINGS BUTTON LIGNE LINED UNLINED MIN STITCH REQ SIZE BUTTONHOLE SIZE KNIFE CUT BUTTONHOLE SIZE KNIFE CUT 13 TO 14 9/16” 3/8” 9/16” 3/8” 90 15 TO 16 5/8” 7/16” 5/8” 7/16” 120 17 TO 18 11/16” 1/2” 5/8” 7/16” 130 19 TO 20 3/4” 9/16” 11/16” 1/2” 140 21 TO 22 13/16” 5/8” 3/4” 9/16” 140 23 TO 24 13/16” 5/8” 13/16” 5/8” 150 Applies to light weight to medium weight woven shirtings, heavier fabrics may require adjustments. Stitch counts are for Tex 24 Poly Core Poly Wrap Thread, stitch counts may need reduction if heavier tex thread used. Buttonhole and knife cut should allow button to slide easily into buttonhole but not allow if to slip out if stressed The “Lined” column is for components such as top centers, cuffs, neckbands, flaps and BD collars The unlined column is for components like sleeve plackets, button thru pockets, unlined front plackets or any part of the garment where interlining is not used. COLLAR POINT BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT The angle of the collar point buttonhole is determined by dissecting the the length of the collar’s straight edge on the cape edge of the collar and scoring a dissect point. Buttonhole will be set back from point of collar 3/8” to outside edge of buttonhole bartack. Buttonhole will cut through topstitching. Buttonhole is to be cut from inside end tacks to tacks Buttonhole opening (from inside end tacks) needs to be 7/16” for a 13,14, or 15 ligne size button 5/8” for a 16 or 17 ligne size button Buttonholes must be cleanly cut Buttonholes must not be recycled or double stitched 3/8” Dissect point Distance of collar point length Collar point length COLLAR BAND BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT The vertical centerline of the collar band is determined by the width of the centerplacket. IE; 1 1/2” centerfront placket has a 3/4” centerline, 1 1/4” has 5/8” centerline. Horizontal centerline on the band is half the distance of the band height, measured from the bottom of the band to the top of the band, parallel as shown Buttonhole should extend 1/8” past the centerline towards the outer edge of the band end. Tol is +/- 1/16” Buttonhole is to be cut from inside end tacks to tacks Button is set on the vertical & horizontal centerline of the band. Tol is +/- 1/16” Button must be sewn on with proper thread shank height and be lock stitched on the backside of the band. Band height at centerfront Centerline of front placket (Cut on or Cut off placket shown) 1/8” Inside edges of end tacks SLEEVEPLACKET & CUFF BUTTON PLACEMENT REQUIREMENTS 3/16/10 - SHW 1/2” 1/2” 1” 1/2” X-STITCH ATTACH BUTTON UNDERARM SEAM Sleeve placket button should be centered on placket opening and set 1/2” in from edge so button should be set at on edge of placket. All layers will give more support and strength to the button sew. Buttons need to be set 1/2” from the edge of the cuff regardless if one, two button adjustable or two/three stacked buttons Buttonhole should be set so the inside of the end tack is at 1/2” Sleeve placket buttonhole should be centered on the width of the sleeve placket and in line with the cuff buttonhole’s inside end tack Cuff & Placket Button & Buttonhole Requirements SLEEVEPLACKET & TWO BTN ADJ CUFF BUTTON PLACEMENT REQUIREMENTS 11/03/11 - SHW Distance between adjustable buttons on all Men’s & Young Men’s casual shirts is 1” Distance between adjustable buttons on all Men’s dress shirts is 3/4” Both buttons must align horizontally, Field of Tol +/- 1/8” Buttons must align horizontally to the buttonhole, Tol is 1/8” 1/2” 1/2” 1” * 1” 1/2” X-STITCH ATTACH BUTTON UNDERARM SEAM Sleeve placket button should be centered on placket opening and set 1/2” in from edge so button should be set at on edge of placket. All layers will give more support and strength to the button sew. Never set the button off the edge of the placket Buttons need to be set 1/2” from the edge of the cuff regardless if one, two button adjustable or two/three stacked buttons Buttonhole should be set so the inside of the end tack is at 1/2” regardless of the sleeve placket width Sleeve placket buttonhole should be centered on the width of the sleeve placket and in line with the cuff buttonhole’s inside end tack. For sleeve plackets specified less then 1” in width, b’hole & button should still be centered on the opening. Cuff & Placket Two Btn Adj & Btnhole Requirements Fused Full Ply Interlining - Cut on 45 Degree Bias Fused Full Patch Interlining - Cut on Warp Dotted Red line is showing where the top of the band sits below the cut out on the patch. The cut out allows the collar to have a clean collar break, and helps control the collar from rolling up. Another option that is used is to not have any legs on the patch and to have the entire patch sit above the top of the band. Collar stitch line Trim Collar face & full patch interlining at point to reduce fabric at tip Approx 1/8” above top of band 3/8” Alignment notches for the patch TWO PLY INTERLINED COLLAR REQUIREMENTS Quartering the Collar Guideline FOLD THE SHIRT INSIDE OUT ALIGNING THE COLLAR POINTS, THE BAND ENDS, AND THE TOP FRONT BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE. All labeling should be centered on the fold line tolerance +/- 1/8” Shoulder seams should lay on top of ea other. If they do not you must measure use the following methods to verify the the shoulder seam. 1. Measure along the bottom of the col on both sides from the center fold line t verify yoke seaming. Tolerance +/- 1/8” 2. Measure along bottom of the collar o both sides from the band end to the yo seam. Tolerance +/- 1/8” Edges of collar should align on top of each other, when properly aligned shape should not vary more t 1/16” , and be consistent from side to side (re-enforcement disc) After aligning check point button placement, buttons must touch to be within tolerance 1. 2.
Transcript of *NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary FOLD ... · Topstitch Tension and Formation...
Left and right front bottom hems should align on each other and be balanced at center. (Tolerance -+ 1/8”)
Excessive curling of hem is not acceptable.
Excessive roping is not acceptable.
Repairs must not be visible, all thread tails must be trimmed and have no heavy concentration of back-tacking.
Frayed yarns must be trimmed within 1/8”.
Frayed yarns must be secure by stitching.
Frayed yarns must be warp yarns only.
Nosing at the start and �nish of hem must align to the edge of the fronts, and not exceed 1/8”.
EXAMPLE: Nosing at start and �nish.
Bottom hems must be circular / post hemmed.
1/4” or under - Hem Construction
Not Acceptable
Straight hems 1/2” or greater should have no less than 3/8” turned under.
Bottom Hem Construction Standards
Not Acceptable
Ends of Bottom hem must be closed by 1/16” SN/Edge stitch
Two to three stitch back-tack is required at start and �nish on hem.
Thread nests are unacceptable.
Sewing threads should be trimmed within an 1/8”.
Tail Contour must be consistent from left to right front. Tolerance 1/4”
Straight hems 1/2” or greater must have ends 1/16” edge stitched closed
D E
B A C
13/4”
11/2”
1/16”
Box Pleat, Yoke Seam & Locker Loop Requirements
BOX PLEAT, YOKE SEAM & LOCKER LOOP REQUIREMENTS
A minimum Yoke Seam of 3/8” is required.
Top stitch on Yoke Seam is to be an Edge Stitch, not to exceed 1/16”. Edge stitch must not run o�.
Label Yoke is to be �ipped back and not caught in the Topstitch.
Topstitch Tension and Formation must lay �at and be pucker free.
Back/Yoke Seam requires 12 to 14 Stitches Per Inch, 14 to 16SPI on Apt 9 (if applicable).
LOCKER LOOP REQUIREMENTS FOR 1 1/2” PLEAT
Locker Loop is to be inserted in Yoke Seam 5/16”. Tolerance +0” / -1/8”.
Length of Locker Loop after inserted should be 1 7/8”Tolerance +1/4” / -0”.
Finished Dimensions of Locker Loop before inserted should be no less than 2 5/8” L X 1/8” W.
BOX PLEAT REQUIREMENTS
These requirements will also apply to Inverted Box Pleats.
Box Pleat (A) to measure as speci�ed on the Product Speci�cations.Tolerance +/- 1/16”.
Box Pleat must be centered on the back/Yoke seam. (Msmt. Pts. B & C) Tolerance +/- 1/8”.
Box Pleat must touch but not overlap at the center. Tolerance +/- 1/16”.
Box Pleat to be proportioned equally from center of pleat to the outer edges. (Msmt. Pts. D & E) Tolerance +/- 1/16”.
All seams must be free of frays, and broken stitches.
(1 1/2” Box Pleat - Example)
Button Upper Placket
Under Placket
Upper PlacketThickness
Shank Height of button attach needs to match thickness of the upper placket. Should not exceed thickness.
Button hole should be a minimum of 1/8” longer then button. Knife should cut from bar to bar, no more than 1/16”left uncut inside buttonhole
Width or needle throw of buttonhole stitch should beadjusted so buttonhole stitch is as close to theknife as possible to reduce frayed yarns.The needle throw may need to be adjusted due to thefabrication or thickness of the placketMinimum throw width is 3/64”5/64” width to be used on fabrics such as Knit Pique orWoven FlannelsButtonholes should be cleanly cut with no untrimmed warpor wale yarns or badly frayed weft or course yarns
Unless speci�ed as parallel stitch, all buttonsewing is to be a locking cross stitch. 16 stitch count minimum
Buttonhole & Button Sewing Requirements
Button sewing thread tails should be trimto be no more than 1/16” in length.No looping threads or bulky thread nests
*NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary
1/8” OR FURTHER FROM EDGE
Front Center Placket Description & Requirements
Anchored by Buttonhole
FOLD TO THE FACE SIDE FRONT PLACKET
CUT ON FRONT PLACKET
CUT OFF FRONT PLACKET
FOLD BACK FRONT (TO THE BACK) PLACKET
FULL WRAP OR DOUBLE FOLD PLACKET
SINGLE FOLD FRONT PLACKET
Only used on fabric that does not have a right or wrong side, not to be used on Apt 9. Normally interlined, but can be optional. Chain or Lock stitch used for top stitch.
Only use on solid fabric or pattern repeats of a 1/4” or less. Normally interlined. Chain stitch used for Top stitch.
Used on all fabrics with a pattern repeat of 1/4” or more. Common or engineered centerline needs to be established prior to production. Centerline must be used on both upper and under front, so pattern repeat is consistent. Normally Interlined. Chain stitch used for Top stitch.
Also used for under front hem. Normally interlined. Chain or lock stitch used for Top stitch.
Usually stitched at outer edge of placket to secure inner cut edge of front. Can also be clean �nished with no top stitch. Depending on fabric, raw edge should be secured with overlock safety stitch, if not fused. Fused interlining applied to inside edge of fold.
Raw edge must be secured with overlock safety stitch. Usually unlined, but can be made using a fusible interlining that is fused to the inside edge. Overlock still required.
Anchored by Buttonhole
*NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary
Men’s Woven Dress Shirt Exra Button Requirements
FACE SIDE OF FABRIC
LAST BTN
UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC
LAST BTN THREADPOST
CROFT & BARROW DRESS SHIRTSExtra buttons sewn to face side of the under front (men’s right front)Buttons should be spaced no morethan 1/8” apart.Thread to match buttonButton Cluster centered between bottomhem and last functional front button
APT 9 DRESS SHIRT & DRESSY CASUALSExtra buttons sewn to under side of the under front (men’s right front)Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/8”` apart.Thread to match or blend with fabricButton cluster centered between bottom hemand last functional front button
All thread tails must be trimmed to be no longer then 1/8”.Excessive thread nests or long loops are not acceptable. Refer to spec for extra button requirementExtra button alignment needs to be uniformButtons to be lockstitchedButtons to be cross stitched unless two hole16 stitch minimumThread shanks not required on extra button
EXTRA BUTTON COUNT FOR CROFT & BARROW & APT 9 DRESS & DRESSY CASUALS BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 2 SMALLBUTTON DOWN COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALLNON-BD COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALLNON-BD COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE, NO SMALL
Button cluster center
Button cluster center
*NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary
Men’s Woven Sport Shirt Extra Button Requirements
UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC
LAST BTN THREADPOST
UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC
LAST BTN THREADPOST
SPORT/CASUAL SHIRTS WITH FOLD BACK UNDERFRONT HEM Extra buttons sewn to under side of the under front (men’s right front)Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/4” apart.Thread to match or blend with fabricButton cluster centered between bottomhem and last functional front buttonIf only two buttons are required, top buttonis centered, other is set below
SPORT SHIRTS WITH DOUBLE FOLDOR SINGLE FOLD BACK FRONT PLACKETSExtra buttons sewn to under side of theunder front PLACKET only, not through face side of front Buttons should be spaced no more than1/4” apart.Thread can match button or blend with fabricButton cluster centered between bottomhem and last functional front buttonIf only two buttons are required, top buttonis centered, other is set below
All thread tails must be trimmed to be no longer then 1/8”.Excessive thread nests or long loops are not acceptable. Refer to spec for extra button requirementExtra button alignment needs to be uniformButtons to be lockstitchedButtons to be cross stitched unless two hole16 stitch minimumThread shanks not required on extra button
EXTRA BUTTON COUNT FOR CROFT & BARROW, HAWKSONOMA, URBAN PIPELINE, APT 9 SPORT SHIRTS BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 1 LARGE & 2 SMALLBUTTON DOWN COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALLNON-BD COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 1 LARGE & 1 SMALLNON-BD COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE, NO SMALL
Center of cluster
Center of cluster
Sleeve Pleats Construction
SLEEVE PLEATS
POSITION OF FIRST PLEAT - 2” in from outer edge of placket - Tolerance 1/8”
POSITION OF SECOND PLEAT - 2 1/2” or as speci�ed from outer edge of placket - Tolerance 1/8”
DEPTHS OF PLEATS - 1/2” or as speci�ed. - Tolerance - + 1/8” or as speci�ed
PLEATS ARE TO UNIFORM, AND SHOULD NOT OVERLAP, - Tolerance 1/8”
PLEAT PLACEMENT MUST BE CONSISTENT FROM LEFT TO RIGHT SLEEVE.
2”
3/4”
2 1/2”
1 7/8”
Pleat placementfield of tolerance
Distance between point of epauletshould be maintained on all sizesTolerance +/- 1/4”
Epaulet width must be maintained from shoulderto shoulder +/- 1/16“
Epaulet length from shoulderto shoulder must be maintainedat the same lengthTolerance +/- 1/8”
Epaulet must always be set into armhole, unlesscalled out.
Epaulet should be sewn down with Armhole stitch,unless called out.
Epaulet should lay flat and must not gap between buttonand armhole stitching.
SHOULDER EPAULET SETTING AND GRADING
WOVEN SHIRTING BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLE SIZES AND STITCH SETTINGS
BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE SIZES & STITCH SETTINGS
BUTTON LIGNE LINED UNLINED MIN STITCH REQ SIZE BUTTONHOLE SIZE KNIFE CUT BUTTONHOLE SIZE KNIFE CUT
13 TO 14 9/16” 3/8” 9/16” 3/8” 90
15 TO 16 5/8” 7/16” 5/8” 7/16” 120
17 TO 18 11/16” 1/2” 5/8” 7/16” 130
19 TO 20 3/4” 9/16” 11/16” 1/2” 140
21 TO 22 13/16” 5/8” 3/4” 9/16” 140
23 TO 24 13/16” 5/8” 13/16” 5/8” 150
Applies to light weight to medium weight woven shirtings, heavier fabrics may require adjustments. Stitch counts are for Tex 24 Poly Core Poly Wrap Thread, stitch counts may need reduction if heavier tex threadused.Buttonhole and knife cut should allow button to slide easily into buttonhole but not allow if to slip out if stressedThe “Lined” column is for components such as top centers, cuffs, neckbands, flaps and BD collarsThe unlined column is for components like sleeve plackets, button thru pockets, unlined front plackets or any part of the garment where interlining is not used.
COLLAR POINT BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT
The angle of the collar point buttonhole is determined by dissecting the the length of the collar’s straight edge on the cape edge of the collar and scoring a dissect point.
Buttonhole will be set back from point of collar 3/8” to outside edge of buttonhole bartack.
Buttonhole will cut through topstitching.
Buttonhole is to be cut from inside end tacks to tacks
Buttonhole opening (from inside end tacks) needs to be7/16” for a 13,14, or 15 ligne size button5/8” for a 16 or 17 ligne size button
Buttonholes must be cleanly cut
Buttonholes must not be recycled or double stitched
3/8”
Dissect point
Distance of collar point length
Colla
r poi
nt le
ngth
COLLAR BAND BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT
The vertical centerline of the collar band is determinedby the width of the centerplacket. IE; 1 1/2” centerfrontplacket has a 3/4” centerline, 1 1/4” has 5/8” centerline.
Horizontal centerline on the band is half the distance of the band height, measured from the bottom of the bandto the top of the band, parallel as shown
Buttonhole should extend 1/8” past the centerline towardsthe outer edge of the band end. Tol is +/- 1/16”
Buttonhole is to be cut from inside end tacks to tacks
Button is set on the vertical & horizontal centerline of theband. Tol is +/- 1/16”
Button must be sewn on with proper thread shank heightand be lock stitched on the backside of the band.
Band height at centerfront
Centerline of front placket(Cut on or Cut o� placket shown)
1/8”
Inside edges of end tacks
SLEEVEPLACKET & CUFF BUTTONPLACEMENT REQUIREMENTS
3/16/10 - SHW
1/2”
1/2”
1”1/2”
X-STITCH ATTACH BUTTON
UNDERARM SEAM
Sleeve placket button should be centered on placket openingand set 1/2” in from edge sobutton should be set at on edgeof placket.All layers will give more supportand strength to the button sew.
Buttons need to be set1/2” from the edge of thecuff regardless if one,two button adjustableor two/three stackedbuttons
Buttonhole should be setso the inside of the end tack is at 1/2”
Sleeve placket buttonholeshould be centered on the width of the sleeve placketand in line with the cuffbuttonhole’s inside end tack
Cuff & Placket Button & Buttonhole Requirements
SLEEVEPLACKET & TWO BTN ADJ CUFF BUTTON PLACEMENT REQUIREMENTS
11/03/11 - SHW
Distance between adjustable buttons on all Men’s & Young Men’s casual shirts is 1” Distance between adjustable buttons on all Men’s dress shirts is 3/4”Both buttons must align horizontally, Field of Tol +/- 1/8”Buttons must align horizontally to the buttonhole, Tol is 1/8”
1/2”1/2” 1” *
1”1/2”
X-STITCH ATTACH BUTTON
UNDERARM SEAM
Sleeve placket button should be centered on placket openingand set 1/2” in from edge sobutton should be set at on edgeof placket.All layers will give more supportand strength to the button sew.Never set the button off the edgeof the placket
Buttons need to be set1/2” from the edge of thecuff regardless if one,two button adjustableor two/three stackedbuttons
Buttonhole should be setso the inside of the end tack is at 1/2” regardlessof the sleeve placket width
Sleeve placket buttonholeshould be centered on the width of the sleeve placketand in line with the cuffbuttonhole’s inside end tack.For sleeve plackets specified less then 1” in width, b’hole &button should still be centeredon the opening.
Cuff & Placket Two Btn Adj & Btnhole Requirements
Fused Full Ply Interlining - Cut on 45 Degree Bias
Fused Full Patch Interlining - Cut on Warp
Dotted Red line is showing where the top of the band sits below the cut out on the patch. The cut out allows the collar tohave a clean collar break, and helps control the collar from rolling up.
Another option that is used is to not have any legs on the patch and to have the entire patch sit above the top of the band.
Collar stitch lineTrim Collar face & full patchinterlining at point to reducefabric at tip
Approx 1/8” above top of band3/8”
Alignment notchesfor the patch
TWO PLY INTERLINED COLLAR REQUIREMENTS Quartering the Collar Guideline
FOLD THE SHIRT INSIDE OUT ALIGNINGTHE COLLAR POINTS, THE BAND ENDS,AND THE TOP FRONT BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE.
All labeling should be centered on the fold line tolerance +/- 1/8”
Shoulder seams should lay on top of each other. If they do not you must measureuse the following methods to verify thethe shoulder seam. 1. Measure along the bottom of the collar on both sides from the center fold line to verify yoke seaming. Tolerance +/- 1/8”
2. Measure along bottom of the collar onboth sides from the band end to the yokeseam. Tolerance +/- 1/8”
Edges of collar should align on top of each other, when properly aligned shape should not vary more than 1/16”, and be consistent from side to side
(re-enforcement disc)
After aligningcheck point buttonplacement, buttonsmust touch to bewithin tolerance
1.2.
COLLAR POINT BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT
The angle of the collar point buttonhole is determined by dissecting the the length of the collar’s straight edge on the cape edge of the collar and scoring a dissect point.
Buttonhole will be set back from point of collar 3/8” to outside edge of buttonhole bartack.
Buttonhole will cut through topstitching.
Buttonhole is to be cut from inside end tacks to tacks
Buttonhole opening (from inside end tacks) needs to be7/16” for a 13,14, or 15 ligne size button5/8” for a 16 or 17 ligne size button
Buttonholes must be cleanly cut
Buttonholes must not be recycled or double stitched
3/8”
Dissect point
Distance of collar point length
Colla
r poi
nt le
ngth
COLLAR BAND BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT
The vertical centerline of the collar band is determinedby the width of the centerplacket. IE; 1 1/2” centerfrontplacket has a 3/4” centerline, 1 1/4” has 5/8” centerline.
Horizontal centerline on the band is half the distance of the band height, measured from the bottom of the bandto the top of the band, parallel as shown
Buttonhole should extend 1/8” past the centerline towardsthe outer edge of the band end. Tol is +/- 1/16”
Buttonhole is to be cut from inside end tacks to tacks
Button is set on the vertical & horizontal centerline of theband. Tol is +/- 1/16”
Button must be sewn on with proper thread shank heightand be lock stitched on the backside of the band.
Band height at centerfront
Centerline of front placket(Cut on or Cut o� placket shown)
1/8”
Inside edges of end tacks
Fused Full Ply Interlining - Cut on 45 Degree Bias
Fused Full Patch Interlining - Cut on Warp
Dotted Red line is showing where the top of the band sits below the cut out on the patch. The cut out allows the collar tohave a clean collar break, and helps control the collar from rolling up.
Another option that is used is to not have any legs on the patch and to have the entire patch sit above the top of the band.
Collar stitch lineTrim Collar face & full patchinterlining at point to reducefabric at tip
Approx 1/8” above top of band3/8”
Alignment notchesfor the patch
TWO PLY INTERLINED COLLAR REQUIREMENTS
Distance between point of epauletshould be maintained on all sizesTolerance +/- 1/4”
Epaulet width must be maintained from shoulderto shoulder +/- 1/16“
Epaulet length from shoulderto shoulder must be maintainedat the same lengthTolerance +/- 1/8”
Epaulet must always be set into armhole, unlesscalled out.
Epaulet should be sewn down with Armhole stitch,unless called out.
Epaulet should lay flat and must not gap between buttonand armhole stitching.
SHOULDER EPAULET SETTING AND GRADING
Left and right front bottom hems should align on each other and be balanced at center. (Tolerance -+ 1/8”)
Excessive curling of hem is not acceptable.
Excessive roping is not acceptable.
Repairs must not be visible, all thread tails must be trimmed and have no heavy concentration of back-tacking.
Frayed yarns must be trimmed within 1/8”.
Frayed yarns must be secure by stitching.
Frayed yarns must be warp yarns only.
Nosing at the start and �nish of hem must align to the edge of the fronts, and not exceed 1/8”.
EXAMPLE: Nosing at start and �nish.
Bottom hems must be circular / post hemmed.
1/4” or under - Hem Construction
Not Acceptable
Straight hems 1/2” or greater should have no less than 3/8” turned under.
Bottom Hem Construction Standards
Not Acceptable
Ends of Bottom hem must be closed by 1/16” SN/Edge stitch
Two to three stitch back-tack is required at start and �nish on hem.
Thread nests are unacceptable.
Sewing threads should be trimmed within an 1/8”.
Tail Contour must be consistent from left to right front. Tolerance 1/4”
Straight hems 1/2” or greater must have ends 1/16” edge stitched closed
D E
B A C
13/4”
11/2”
1/16”
Box Pleat, Yoke Seam & Locker Loop Requirements
BOX PLEAT, YOKE SEAM & LOCKER LOOP REQUIREMENTS
A minimum Yoke Seam of 3/8” is required.
Top stitch on Yoke Seam is to be an Edge Stitch, not to exceed 1/16”. Edge stitch must not run o�.
Label Yoke is to be �ipped back and not caught in the Topstitch.
Topstitch Tension and Formation must lay �at and be pucker free.
Back/Yoke Seam requires 12 to 14 Stitches Per Inch, 14 to 16SPI on Apt 9 (if applicable).
LOCKER LOOP REQUIREMENTS FOR 1 1/2” PLEAT
Locker Loop is to be inserted in Yoke Seam 5/16”. Tolerance +0” / -1/8”.
Length of Locker Loop after inserted should be 1 7/8”Tolerance +1/4” / -0”.
Finished Dimensions of Locker Loop before inserted should be no less than 2 5/8” L X 1/8” W.
BOX PLEAT REQUIREMENTS
These requirements will also apply to Inverted Box Pleats.
Box Pleat (A) to measure as speci�ed on the Product Speci�cations.Tolerance +/- 1/16”.
Box Pleat must be centered on the back/Yoke seam. (Msmt. Pts. B & C) Tolerance +/- 1/8”.
Box Pleat must touch but not overlap at the center. Tolerance +/- 1/16”.
Box Pleat to be proportioned equally from center of pleat to the outer edges. (Msmt. Pts. D & E) Tolerance +/- 1/16”.
All seams must be free of frays, and broken stitches.
(1 1/2” Box Pleat - Example)
*NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary
1/8” OR FURTHER FROM EDGE
Front Center Placket Description & Requirements
Anchored by Buttonhole
FOLD TO THE FACE SIDE FRONT PLACKET
CUT ON FRONT PLACKET
CUT OFF FRONT PLACKET
FOLD BACK FRONT (TO THE BACK) PLACKET
FULL WRAP OR DOUBLE FOLD PLACKET
SINGLE FOLD FRONT PLACKET
Only used on fabric that does not have a right or wrong side, not to be used on Apt 9. Normally interlined, but can be optional. Chain or Lock stitch used for top stitch.
Only use on solid fabric or pattern repeats of a 1/4” or less. Normally interlined. Chain stitch used for Top stitch.
Used on all fabrics with a pattern repeat of 1/4” or more. Common or engineered centerline needs to be established prior to production. Centerline must be used on both upper and under front, so pattern repeat is consistent. Normally Interlined. Chain stitch used for Top stitch.
Also used for under front hem. Normally interlined. Chain or lock stitch used for Top stitch.
Usually stitched at outer edge of placket to secure inner cut edge of front. Can also be clean �nished with no top stitch. Depending on fabric, raw edge should be secured with overlock safety stitch, if not fused. Fused interlining applied to inside edge of fold.
Raw edge must be secured with overlock safety stitch. Usually unlined, but can be made using a fusible interlining that is fused to the inside edge. Overlock still required.
Anchored by Buttonhole
Button Upper Placket
Under Placket
Upper PlacketThickness
Shank Height of button attach needs to match thickness of the upper placket. Should not exceed thickness.
Button hole should be a minimum of 1/8” longer then button. Knife should cut from bar to bar, no more than 1/16”left uncut inside buttonhole
Width or needle throw of buttonhole stitch should beadjusted so buttonhole stitch is as close to theknife as possible to reduce frayed yarns.The needle throw may need to be adjusted due to thefabrication or thickness of the placketMinimum throw width is 3/64”5/64” width to be used on fabrics such as Knit Pique orWoven FlannelsButtonholes should be cleanly cut with no untrimmed warpor wale yarns or badly frayed weft or course yarns
Unless speci�ed as parallel stitch, all buttonsewing is to be a locking cross stitch. 16 stitch count minimum
Buttonhole & Button Sewing Requirements
Button sewing thread tails should be trimto be no more than 1/16” in length.No looping threads or bulky thread nests
SLEEVEPLACKET & CUFF BUTTONPLACEMENT REQUIREMENTS
3/16/10 - SHW
1/2”
1/2”
1”1/2”
X-STITCH ATTACH BUTTON
UNDERARM SEAM
Sleeve placket button should be centered on placket openingand set 1/2” in from edge sobutton should be set at on edgeof placket.All layers will give more supportand strength to the button sew.
Buttons need to be set1/2” from the edge of thecuff regardless if one,two button adjustableor two/three stackedbuttons
Buttonhole should be setso the inside of the end tack is at 1/2”
Sleeve placket buttonholeshould be centered on the width of the sleeve placketand in line with the cuffbuttonhole’s inside end tack
Cuff & Placket Button & Buttonhole Requirements
SLEEVEPLACKET & TWO BTN ADJ CUFF BUTTON PLACEMENT REQUIREMENTS
11/03/11 - SHW
Distance between adjustable buttons on all Men’s & Young Men’s casual shirts is 1” Distance between adjustable buttons on all Men’s dress shirts is 3/4”Both buttons must align horizontally, Field of Tol +/- 1/8”Buttons must align horizontally to the buttonhole, Tol is 1/8”
1/2”1/2” 1” *
1”1/2”
X-STITCH ATTACH BUTTON
UNDERARM SEAM
Sleeve placket button should be centered on placket openingand set 1/2” in from edge sobutton should be set at on edgeof placket.All layers will give more supportand strength to the button sew.Never set the button off the edgeof the placket
Buttons need to be set1/2” from the edge of thecuff regardless if one,two button adjustableor two/three stackedbuttons
Buttonhole should be setso the inside of the end tack is at 1/2” regardlessof the sleeve placket width
Sleeve placket buttonholeshould be centered on the width of the sleeve placketand in line with the cuffbuttonhole’s inside end tack.For sleeve plackets specified less then 1” in width, b’hole &button should still be centeredon the opening.
Cuff & Placket Two Btn Adj & Btnhole Requirements
*NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary
Men’s Woven Dress Shirt Exra Button Requirements
FACE SIDE OF FABRIC
LAST BTN
UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC
LAST BTN THREADPOST
CROFT & BARROW DRESS SHIRTSExtra buttons sewn to face side of the under front (men’s right front)Buttons should be spaced no morethan 1/8” apart.Thread to match buttonButton Cluster centered between bottomhem and last functional front button
APT 9 DRESS SHIRT & DRESSY CASUALSExtra buttons sewn to under side of the under front (men’s right front)Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/8”` apart.Thread to match or blend with fabricButton cluster centered between bottom hemand last functional front button
All thread tails must be trimmed to be no longer then 1/8”.Excessive thread nests or long loops are not acceptable. Refer to spec for extra button requirementExtra button alignment needs to be uniformButtons to be lockstitchedButtons to be cross stitched unless two hole16 stitch minimumThread shanks not required on extra button
EXTRA BUTTON COUNT FOR CROFT & BARROW & APT 9 DRESS & DRESSY CASUALS BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 2 SMALLBUTTON DOWN COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALLNON-BD COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALLNON-BD COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE, NO SMALL
Button cluster center
Button cluster center
*NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary
Men’s Woven Sport Shirt Extra Button Requirements
UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC
LAST BTN THREADPOST
UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC
LAST BTN THREADPOST
SPORT/CASUAL SHIRTS WITH FOLD BACK UNDERFRONT HEM Extra buttons sewn to under side of the under front (men’s right front)Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/4” apart.Thread to match or blend with fabricButton cluster centered between bottomhem and last functional front buttonIf only two buttons are required, top buttonis centered, other is set below
SPORT SHIRTS WITH DOUBLE FOLDOR SINGLE FOLD BACK FRONT PLACKETSExtra buttons sewn to under side of theunder front PLACKET only, not through face side of front Buttons should be spaced no more than1/4” apart.Thread can match button or blend with fabricButton cluster centered between bottomhem and last functional front buttonIf only two buttons are required, top buttonis centered, other is set below
All thread tails must be trimmed to be no longer then 1/8”.Excessive thread nests or long loops are not acceptable. Refer to spec for extra button requirementExtra button alignment needs to be uniformButtons to be lockstitchedButtons to be cross stitched unless two hole16 stitch minimumThread shanks not required on extra button
EXTRA BUTTON COUNT FOR CROFT & BARROW, HAWKSONOMA, URBAN PIPELINE, APT 9 SPORT SHIRTS BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 1 LARGE & 2 SMALLBUTTON DOWN COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALLNON-BD COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 1 LARGE & 1 SMALLNON-BD COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE, NO SMALL
Center of cluster
Center of cluster
Sleeve Pleats Construction
SLEEVE PLEATS
POSITION OF FIRST PLEAT - 2” in from outer edge of placket - Tolerance 1/8”
POSITION OF SECOND PLEAT - 2 1/2” or as speci�ed from outer edge of placket - Tolerance 1/8”
DEPTHS OF PLEATS - 1/2” or as speci�ed. - Tolerance - + 1/8” or as speci�ed
PLEATS ARE TO UNIFORM, AND SHOULD NOT OVERLAP, - Tolerance 1/8”
PLEAT PLACEMENT MUST BE CONSISTENT FROM LEFT TO RIGHT SLEEVE.
2”
3/4”
2 1/2”
1 7/8”
Pleat placementfield of tolerance
Quartering the Collar Guideline
FOLD THE SHIRT INSIDE OUT ALIGNINGTHE COLLAR POINTS, THE BAND ENDS,AND THE TOP FRONT BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE.
All labeling should be centered on the fold line tolerance +/- 1/8”
Shoulder seams should lay on top of each other. If they do not you must measureuse the following methods to verify thethe shoulder seam. 1. Measure along the bottom of the collar on both sides from the center fold line to verify yoke seaming. Tolerance +/- 1/8”
2. Measure along bottom of the collar onboth sides from the band end to the yokeseam. Tolerance +/- 1/8”
Edges of collar should align on top of each other, when properly aligned shape should not vary more than 1/16”, and be consistent from side to side
(re-enforcement disc)
After aligningcheck point buttonplacement, buttonsmust touch to bewithin tolerance
1.2.
1/16” Single Needle lock Stitching on dog house stitch formationmust be secure with 2 to 3 stitch backtacks.
Stitching must not run off, & all thread tails are to be trimmed
Stitching and tip of sleeve placket must be uniformedExamples of unacceptable shaping and stitching
On a One piece placket caremust be taken to avoid guttersand puckering
Underplacket must not be visible when placket& cuff are buttoned, No more than 1/16” of theunderplacket
Tip off center One sidelower
Stitch more than 1/16” from edge
Button & Buttonhole centeredon opening Tol +/- 1/8”Button & Buttonhole centeredon width of placket Tol +/- 1/8”
Placket must lay flat, no gappingbetween button & top or bottomof placket opening.
No roping or twisting.
Length of the underplacket & upperplacket must be the same length Tol +/- 1/8”
On two piece placket, under placketmust a min of 3/8” past the buttonsew post.
Button must not sit at edge of underplacket
Sleeve Placket Construction Requirements
1/4”
3/8” or asspeci�ed
SINGLE NEEDLE ARMHOLEStitch line to be consistent at a 3/8” margin, or margin speci�ed. Tolerance +-1/16”.
All armhole seams must be folder set with no raw edges or overlock safety stitch unless approval is given prior to sampling.
SINGLE NEEDLE OR TWO NEEDLE SIDE SEAMStitch line should be consistent on seam, and not sway. Tolerance +-1/16”.
Both Single Needle and Two needle stitching should besewn on front panels with seam opening to the back.
All seams should be free of frayed fabric or threads. Frayed fabric must be locked in by the stitch, and not exceed 3/16”.
SLEEVE ALIGNMENT (ARMHOLE SEAM)Sleeve seam should align on all fabrications. Tolerance +- 1/4”. (See Illustration to right for example)
REPAIRSAny repairs must not be visible, there should not be thread tails, no visual needle holes, or heavy concentration of threads due to backtacking.
Sideseam and Armhole Construction
Quartering the Collar Guideline
FOLD THE SHIRT INSIDE OUT ALIGNINGTHE COLLAR POINTS, THE BAND ENDS,AND THE TOP FRONT BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE.
All labeling should be centered on the fold line tolerance +/- 1/8”
Shoulder seams should lay on top of each other. If they do not you must measureuse the following methods to verify thethe shoulder seam. 1. Measure along the bottom of the collar on both sides from the center fold line to verify yoke seaming. Tolerance +/- 1/8”
2. Measure along bottom of the collar onboth sides from the band end to the yokeseam. Tolerance +/- 1/8”
Edges of collar should align on top of each other, when properly aligned shape should not vary more than 1/16”, and be consistent from side to side
(re-enforcement disc)
After aligningcheck point buttonplacement, buttonsmust touch to bewithin tolerance
1.2.
