NORTHERN EUROPE - s3. · PDF fileM A DEIR A a I SL A ND 9 0 9 MIN ( by 90 MI ... HR 90 MI N 2...
Transcript of NORTHERN EUROPE - s3. · PDF fileM A DEIR A a I SL A ND 9 0 9 MIN ( by 90 MI ... HR 90 MI N 2...
NORTHERN EUROPE& RUSSIA2016
Andrew Harper’s
Netherlands & Belgium
Touring Map 2
NETHERLANDS
Introduction 3
Amsterdam 4
The Hague 9
Vreeland 10
Zeeland 11
Maastricht Area 11
BELGIUM
Introduction 12
Antwerp 13
Bruges 14
Brussels 16
Ardennes 19
Scandinavia Touring Map 20
DENMARK
Introduction 21
Copenhagen 22
Island of Funen 26
SWEDEN
Introduction 27
Stockholm 28
NORWAY
Introduction 32
Oslo 33
The Fjords 34
FINLAND
Introduction 36
Helsinki 37
Baltic States Touring Map 38
ESTONIA
Introduction 39
Tallinn 40
Muhu Island 41
LATVIA 42
LITHUANIA 43
POLAND
Introduction 44
Touring Map 45
Warsaw 46
Kraków 47
Gdansk Region 48
RUSSIA
Introduction 50
Touring Map 51
Moscow 52
St. Petersburg 54
Hotel Index 56
A The number that follows this symbol indicates my rating of a hotel on a scale of 50-100. To merit inclusion in The Collection, however, a property must achieve a minimum score of 90.
P Look for the plus symbol following a hotel listing, which indicates that significant benefits are available to subscribers. More than 600 recommended hotels and resorts offer privileges that include preferred rates, room upgrades, complimentary breakfasts, spa credits and more.
COVER Keukenhof Gardens, located 23 miles outside of Amsterdam. © BALLYCROY / ISTOCK
VOLUME 10 — NORTHERN EUROPE & RUSSIA
Updated October 2016
A personal guide to the best hotels and restaurants
in the world
NETHERLANDS & BELGIUM ANDREWHARPER.COM2
JERSEY
GUERNSEY
CORSICA
SARDINIA
SICILY
FAROE ISLANDS
SHETLANDISLANDS
ORKNEYISLANDS
BORNHOLM
OLAND
GOTLAND
SAAREMAA
HIIUMAA
OUTERHEBRIDES
B A L E A R I C I S L A N D S
Madeira Islands
AT L A N T I CO C E A N
N o r w e g i a n S e a
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M e d i t e r r a n e a n S e a
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S t r a i t o f S i c i l y
S t r a i t o f G i l b r a l t a r
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RUSSIA
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ROMANIA
FINLAND
BELARUS
ALGERIA
UNITEDKINGDOM
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SWITZERLAND
SPAIN
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SLOVAKIA
SERBIA
MONTENEGROSAN MARINO
PORTUGAL
POLAND
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NETHERLANDS
MOROCCO
MONACO
MALTA
MACEDONIA
LUXEMBOURG
LITHUANIA
LIECH.
LATVIA
ITALY
IRELAND
HUNGARY
GREECE
GERMANY
FRANCE
ESTONIA
DENMARK
CZECH REP.
CROATIA
BOSNIA& HERZ.
BELGIUM
AUSTRIA
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MOROCCO ALGERIA
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AMSTERDAM
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1 Conservatorium InterContinental Amstel Canal House Hotel Seven One Seven De L’Europe
2 Hotel Des Indes
3 De Nederlanden
Additional MapsAmsterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
HOTEL LOCATOR AND TOURING MAP
4 Inter Scaldes
5 Kasteel Wittem
6 De Witte Lelie
7 Hotel De Tuilerieën The Pand Hotel Guesthouse Bonifacius
8 Hotel Amigo Stanhope Hotel
9 Moulin Hideux
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 NETHERLANDS 3
NETHERLANDSBRIEFING Thanks to its seafaring and colonial past, Holland is now a vibrant cultural
melting pot. Most visitors will spend a few days in Amsterdam, strolling along canals
lined with merchant houses and admiring the Vermeers in the Rijksmuseum. Outside
of the city, the country abounds with castles, cobblestoned villages, lighthouses and
flower farms. Many tourists visit the Netherlands just to witness the astonishing views
over the bulb fields. The season begins in March with crocuses, followed by daffodils
and yellow narcissi. Hyacinths and tulips bloom from April to mid-May. Aalsmeer, close
to Amsterdam, is the home of the world’s biggest flower auction. The spectacular Flower
Parade of the Bollenstreek is held at the end of April every year.
WHEN TO VISIT Expect mild winters and cool summers with showers. Spring (tulip
time) is the most beautiful season.
AMSTERDAM
Temp (F) JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Average high 41 46 48 54 63 67 71 70 66 59 48 43
Average low 34 32 37 41 47 53 56 56 53 45 40 36
PM humidity 80 75 63 60 57 57 62 64 65 70 80 85
Days w/rain 15 18 16 16 14 14 17 18 19 23 20 21
Precip (in) 3.0 2.0 1.5 2.0 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 2.5
TIME Six hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY Euro (€). Fluctuating rate valued at €1.00 = US$1.12 as of September 2016.
U.S. EMBASSY The Hague, Tel. 70-310-2209. Consulate: Amsterdam, Tel. 20-575-5309.
DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels and restaurants in Holland, dial 011 (international access) + 31 (Netherlands code) + city code and local numbers.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.
GENERAL INFORMATION Visit holland.com before your trip.
“ The Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam is one of my favorite museums.
Vermeer’s ‘The Milkmaid’ and ‘Woman in Blue Reading a Letter’ are,
for many, objects of pilgrimage.
NETHERLANDS MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM4
BRIEFING Amsterdam is built on a manageable scale: Walking and biking along the
famous canals are ideal ways to view the 17th-century gabled merchants’ houses and
to visit the flower markets, secondhand bookstores and cafés. Glass-topped boat trips
offer other perspectives on Amsterdam, especially at night when many of the city’s
bridges are illuminated.
FROM MY NOTEBOOK
■ Three of the world’s greatest museums are found on the Museumplein, a grassy open
space in Amsterdam-Zuid (Amsterdam South). The Rijksmuseum (MUSEUMSTRAAT 1), with its
superb collection of Rembrandts, Vermeers, Halses and Steens, has reopened after a
10-year, $450 million renovation. Following the reconstruction, the galleries are flooded
with natural light and augmented by an extensive new visitors’ center. Highlights of the
museum include Rembrandt’s “Self Portrait as the Apostle Paul” and “The Night Watch.”
The much-loved Van Gogh Museum (MUSEUMPLEIN 6) attracted nearly 2 million visitors last
year and contains 200 paintings and 400 drawings, the world’s largest collection of
the artist’s work. The museum reopened in 2013 after a comprehensive renovation of
its galleries, and major works found here include “Sunflowers,” “Bedroom in Arles” and
“Wheatfield with Crows” (thought by some to be Van Gogh’s last painting). Another good
option is the Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam (MUSEUMPLEIN 10), which contains an outstanding
collection of contemporary art and design. It features virtually the entire pantheon of
modernist greats, including artists such as Kandinsky, Chagall, Braque, Picasso, Matisse,
Malevich, Pollock, Warhol, de Kooning, Rauschenberg, Johns and Lichtenstein.
InterContinental Amstel
AMSTERDAM
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 NETHERLANDS 5
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Tempo Doeloe
Le Garage Visaandeschelde
Restaurant Greetje
Restaurant Vermeer
■ Holland is a major cheese producer, and not long ago a Dutch cheese, Vermeer, won
first prize at the prestigious World Championship Cheese Contest in Madison, Wisconsin.
Gouda and Edam are well-known, but the country produces a variety of other excellent
cheeses, including bleu de Wolvega (a soft, spicy Frisian blue), Reypenaer V.S.O.P. (an
aged Gouda), commissiekaas (a mature Edam colored with carotene) and Boeren sleutel-
leidse (a cumin-spiced cheese from the Leiden area). Look for them in restaurants, or
track them down at De Kaaskamer, the best cheese shop in the city. RUNSTRAAT 7.
■ Located 23 miles southwest of Amsterdam, the Keukenhof garden was formally estab-
lished in 1949 by an association of Dutch bulb growers. Each year 7 million bulbs — including
tulips, daffodils and hyacinths — are planted in the 79-acre garden. You can check the prog-
ress of the seasonal flowerings on the garden’s website. (The garden is open from late March
to mid-May. Mid-April is usually the most spectacular time.) STATIONSWEG 166A, LISSE. KEUKENHOF.NL
Hotels
1 Conservatorium
2 InterContinental Amstel
3 Canal House
4 Hotel Seven One Seven
5 De L’Europe
NETHERLANDS MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM6
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS Compared with that of other former culinary laggards
such as Stockholm, Copenhagen and Berlin, the cooking in Amsterdam has yet to find
a contemporary idiom. Nonetheless, you will discover some excellent places to eat, the
best for local dishes being Greetje on Peperstraat. (PRICES REFLECT APPROXIMATE COST OF DINNER
PER PERSON, EXCLUDING WINE)
&SAMHOUD PLACES One of the most interesting restaurants in Amsterdam is the oddly
named &samhoud places, which earned two stars in a recent edition of the Michelin
Guide. Israeli-born Dutch chef Moshik Roth serves exquisite little cameos of food, such
as goose liver with raspberries, lychees, roses and almonds; turbot with vanilla, kaffir
lime, orange and black rice; and Anjou pigeon with liver, Chinese cabbage, plums, orange
and angelica. I increasingly dislike such complex, finicky menus, but Roth’s is brilliant
from start to finish. CLOSED MONDAY AND TUESDAY, DINNER ONLY SATURDAY AND WEDNESDAY THROUGH THURSDAY.
OOSTERDOKSKADE 5. TEL. 20-260-2094. US$140. PRIX FIXE MENUS, US$150 AND US$195.
LE GARAGE This chic brasserie with its buzzy atmosphere and post-industrial setting
has a slightly louche glamour that draws people from the Dutch arts, cinema and showbiz.
Start with the terrine of foie gras, then try the blanquette de veau, or the roasted chicken
before enjoying a superb crème brûlée for dessert. CLOSED FOR LUNCH SATURDAY AND SUNDAY.
RUYSDAELSTRAAT 54-56. TEL. 20-679-7176. US$65. PRIX FIXE MENUS, US$45 AND US$55.
RESTAURANT GREETJE Owner René Loven’s mission is to offer the sort of Dutch comfort
food that his mother made for him. Start with the grilled sandwich of Frisian sugar
bread with layers of duck liver terrine and a garnish of homemade apple syrup, then try
a hearty main course such as roasted lamb chops with Nicola potatoes from the oven.
You’ll find an excellent sampler of Dutch cheeses. Friendly service adds to the pleasure
of the meal. PEPERSTRAAT 23-25. TEL. 20-779-7450. US$65. PRIX FIXE MENU, US$60.
RESTAURANT VERMEER Open fires, a checkerboard floor and a palette of cream and
gold create a refined setting for chef Christopher Naylor’s French/Continental cuisine.
Notable dishes have included poached lobster with rhubarb and avocado; halibut with
roasted carrots and black garlic; and beef rib with cranberry-shallot chutney, Swiss
chard and red wine beef jus. CLOSED SUNDAY. PRINS HENDRIKKADE 59-72. TEL. 20-556-4885. US$80. PRIX FIXE
MENUS, US$75, US$85 AND US$100.
TEMPO DOELOE Indonesian food is to Amsterdam as Indian food is to London — a
much-loved edible souvenir of the colonial past. The best place in the city to sample this
intriguing cuisine is Tempo Doeloe (a Dutch phrase borrowed from Indonesian that means
“the old days”). For the uninitiated, the best introduction to this sophisticated cuisine is a
rijsttafel (rice table), which is a sampler buffet of many individual dishes including gadon
dari sapi (beef in a gentle coriander-flavored coconut sauce), ajam roedjak (chicken in
a spicy chili-coconut sauce), and sambal goreng oedang (baby prawns with Indonesian
spices). CLOSED SUNDAY. UTRECHTSESTRAAT 75. TEL. 20-625-6718. US$60.
VISAANDESCHELDE The freshest catches of the day from Holland’s North Sea ports have
made this stylish seafood restaurant enormously popular. The menu, which changes
constantly depending on what’s available in the market, varies between classic Euro-
pean preparations and those from countries farther afield (especially Asia). CLOSED FOR
LUNCH SATURDAY AND SUNDAY. SCHELDEPLEIN 4. TEL. 20-675-1583. US$70. PRIX FIXE MENUS, US$50, US$65 AND US$75.
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 NETHERLANDS 7
Conservatorium A95 Welcoming eight-story hotel in restored 19th-century
stone-and-brick structure adjacent to Museum Square, close to chic shops and a lovely
park. Striking atrium lobby has glass walls and ceiling. The 129 comfortable and attrac-
tive guest accommodations designed by Piero Lissoni feature oak parquet floors, double-
glazed windows and travertine-lined baths with stall showers; some include separate
living areas and soaking tubs. Two restaurants: casual Conservatorium Brasserie, in a
glass-enclosed interior courtyard; and the more formal Taiko, serving contemporary
Asian dishes. Other amenities include a chic bar for Champagne, cocktails and sushi;
a well-equipped gym; and a spa with a lap pool, seven treatment rooms, lounge/café,
sauna and steam room. DELUXE DUPLEX ROOM, FROM $600; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $760. VAN BAERLESTRAAT 27,
1071 AN AMSTERDAM. TEL. 20-570-0000. CONSERVATORIUMHOTEL.COM P AH BENEFITS
InterContinental Amstel A93 Revitalized 150-year-old hotel set in a 19th-century
palace along the quiet banks of the Amstel River near the Royal Theater Carré and
shopping districts. All 79 guest rooms feature French period furniture, Oriental rugs,
hand-printed patterned wallpaper and large windows; spacious Italian marble baths
with rainfall showers and Anne Semonin toiletries. Michelin-starred La Rive restaurant
serves French-Mediterranean cuisine; informal river-level brasserie for lunch or dinner;
Amstel Lounge in the conservatory for afternoon tea service; and a distinctive cocktail
bar with terrace. Fitness center with personal trainers and health club with massage
treatment rooms, luxurious indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi, horizontal shower, sauna
and steam room. Cooking classes offered. EXECUTIVE RIVER VIEW ROOM, FROM $650; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM
$750. PROFESSOR TULPPLEIN 1, 1018 GX AMSTERDAM. TEL. 20-622-6060. AMSTERDAM.INTERCONTINENTAL.COM
Conservatorium / © AMIT GERON
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
NETHERLANDS MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM8
Canal House A92 Intimate 23-room boutique hotel in three 17th-century
merchants’ houses bordering Keizersgracht canal on the edge of the city’s Jordaan
district. Sophisticated interiors retain historic features such as timber beams, ornate
fireplaces and tall windows. Upper-floor Exceptional Rooms (no elevator) provide views
of canal boat traffic or lush gardens and feature dark oak-plank floors, silk wallcoverings
and modern technology; open baths with soaking tubs, separate glass stall shower and
small twin-vessel sinks. Light menu served in handsome The Great Room overlooking
peaceful, brick-walled garden furnished with comfortable chairs and sofas. Also clubby,
dark-paneled bar with canal views offers an interesting selection of Dutch gins. GREAT ROOM,
FROM $420; EXCEPTIONAL ROOM, FROM $500. KEIZERSGRACHT 148, 1015 CX AMSTERDAM. TEL. 20-622-5182. CANALHOUSE.NL
Hotel Seven One Seven
Hotel Seven One Seven A91 Nine-suite guesthouse in a 19th-century land-
mark mansion on the tree-lined Prinsengracht canal, near the Van Gogh Museum,
Rijksmuseum and Spiegelstraat antiques quarter. A solid oak staircase leads to uniquely
appointed lodgings that feature beamed ceilings, crown moldings, large windows and
ample closets along with comfortable sitting areas and a mix of antique furniture and
modern accents; baths include walk-in rainfall showers. Breakfast is served in the guest
rooms, on the secluded garden patio or in the art-filled breakfast room furnished with
a grand piano; afternoon tea service is offered in the lounge. Breakfast only, but many
restaurants nearby. In-room massage treatments available. JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $570; EXECUTIVE
SUITE, FROM $760. PRINSENGRACHT 717, 1017 JW AMSTERDAM. TEL. 20-427-0717. 717HOTEL.NL P AH BENEFITS
De L’Europe A90 Landmark hotel on the Amstel River within walking distance of
the Van Gogh Museum and P.C. Hooftstraat shopping area. The 111 rooms and suites are
housed in either the newer Dutch Masters Wing or the historic Rondeel building. Each of
the 23 individually decorated suites with separate sitting rooms and white marble baths
in the Dutch Masters Wing features a different Dutch Masters painting replicated from
the original in the nearby Rijksmuseum. Two-star Bord’Eau restaurant for contemporary
French cuisine, plus an informal brasserie and seasonal scenic riverside terrace serving
local Dutch specialties; also a library, wine cellar and a fumoir. Full-service spa with
gym, Jacuzzi and mosaic-lined heated indoor pool. DELUXE RIVER VIEW ROOM, FROM $630; JUNIOR
SUITE, FROM $790. NIEUWE DOELENSTRAAT 2-14, 1012 CP AMSTERDAM. TEL. 20-531-1777. DELEUROPE.COM P AH BENEFITS
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 NETHERLANDS 9
THE HAGUE
BRIEFING The Hague is the third-largest city in the Netherlands after Amsterdam
and Rotterdam. It is the seat of the Dutch government, but not the national capital, this
being a role reserved for Amsterdam. The Hague is also the location of the primary
judicial institutions of the United Nations. Unlike the nearby cities of Leiden and Delft,
The Hague is not a walled city laced with canals. Instead, it has spacious streets lined
by 18th-century houses. City life concentrates around the Hofvijver and the Binnenhof,
where the parliament is located. The Mauritshuis exhibits many paintings by Dutch
Masters, such as Vermeer and Rembrandt, while the Gemeentemuseum is home to the
world’s largest collection of works by the Dutch painter Piet Mondrian.
Hotel Des Indes A92 Grand 92-room Old World hotel on a tree-lined square near
embassies, the royal palace, government buildings and the city’s finest shops. Elegant
rooms refurbished by celebrated designer Jacques Garcia offer well-equipped baths
featuring heated black marble floors, white marble basins, red tiles and rainfall showers.
Junior Suites include living spaces with sofas, work areas, chandeliers and king-size beds.
Chic Restaurant Des Indes serves French- and Italian-inspired contemporary dishes in
a stately dining room; an elegant high tea is offered in the lounge every day. Amenities
include a cigar lounge, well-equipped fitness center and a full-service spa with Swedish
sauna, solarium and indoor swimming pool with jet stream. EXECUTIVE ROOM, FROM $365; JUNIOR
SUITE, FROM $545. LANGE VOORHOUT 54-56, 2514 EG THE HAGUE. TEL. 70-361-2345. HOTELDESINDESTHEHAGUE.COM
Binnenhof / © ANASTASY YARMOLOVICH/ISTOCK / THINKSTOCK
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
NETHERLANDS MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM10
VREELAND
BRIEFING Vreeland is a picturesque village located on the Vecht river in the Vechtstreek,
a region between the cities of Utrecht and Amsterdam. Located in the economic heart-
land of the Netherlands, the Vechtstreek is famous for its many mansions and parks,
which bear witness to the wealth of the Dutch Golden Age. Vreeland is surrounded by
numerous lakes, but aside from water activities, visitors come to enjoy the local hiking
and biking routes. The Floris de Vijfde and Waterlinie paths were opened in 2004 and
have since proved extremely popular.
De Nederlanden A95 Tranquil 17th-century auberge on the banks of the Vecht
River in the village of Vreeland, 20 minutes from Amsterdam and Utrecht. Ten guest
accommodations with beamed ceilings and large-paned windows include comfortable
beds, upholstered club chairs or love seats, writing desks and armoires; some also come
with woodburning fireplaces and river views. Suites have lounge areas and either a
private balcony or a bath with a Jacuzzi tub and separate shower. A Michelin-starred
restaurant offers refined French cuisine with seasonal touches; light fare is served in
a handsome lounge or on the waterside terrace during the summer. Activities include
cooking workshops, tranquil boat cruises, biking and sailing. DELUXE ROOM, FROM $200; SUITE,
FROM $230. DUINKERKEN 3, 3633 EM VREELAND AAN DE VECHT. TEL. 294-232-326. NEDERLANDEN.NL
Dutch countryside / © JAAP HART/ISTOCK
“ The town of Breukelen, six miles south of Vreeland, gave its name
to the New York borough of Brooklyn.
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 NETHERLANDS 11
ZEELAND
BRIEFING The province of Zeeland (“Sea-land”) lies in the delta of the rivers Rhine,
Waal and Meuse. Much of it is below sea level; the land was reclaimed over the centuries,
and what used to be mud flats that flooded at high tide became a series of small, man-
made hills connected by dikes. Middelburg, the provincial capital, is an attractive city
with a fine museum that’s located in an old abbey. During Holland’s Golden Age, Zeeland
was one of the two most important seafaring provinces of the Netherlands. Visitors
come to enjoy the long, sandy beaches in resorts such as Domburg and tiny Zoutelande.
Inter Scaldes A94 Renowned 12-room gourmet retreat in a 1920s manor house
with English-style gardens on a peninsula between two estuaries in Zeeland, 45 minutes
north of Antwerp. Preferred ground-floor rooms open onto hedge-screened terraces;
some feature Jacuzzi baths and separate sitting areas. All accommodations are deco-
rated with colorful fabrics and fine antiques; compact baths provide tubs with hand-
held showers. Chef Jannis Brevet creates marvelous cuisine from local seafood and
fresh seasonal ingredients at his renowned two-starred restaurant. Diversions include
cooking classes, wine tastings, tennis, mountain biking, hiking and fishing, plus nearby
golf and water sports. Hotel closed every Monday and Tuesday. SUPERIOR ROOM, $350; JUNIOR
SUITE, $400. ZANDWEG 2, 4416 NA KRUININGEN. TEL. 113-381-753. INTERSCALDES.EU
MAASTRICHT AREA
BRIEFING The charming city of Maastricht is bisected by the Meuse River and is close
to both the Belgian and German borders. The city’s strategic location has resulted in
an impressive array of fortifications, but these days Maastricht is known as a center of
tradition, history and culture. In 1992, the Maastricht Treaty was negotiated and signed
here, causing the creation of the European Union. The renowned European Fine Art
Fair is held every March.
Kasteel Wittem A91 Family-owned medieval castle-hotel (a listed national
monument) surrounded by 300-year-old gardens located in the valley of the river Geul.
Twelve individually appointed stately lodgings. Book a tower suite, which feature a
circular master bedroom; small separate living area; bath with shower/tub combination;
and beautiful garden, courtyard or river views. Brasserie serves local specialties; also
features a comfortable library with reading table, a lounge bar and an outdoor dining
terrace overlooking garden and moat. The historic city of Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle) lies
just nine miles to the east. Activities include hiking, mountain biking, canoeing, kaya-
king, nearby golf and daytrips to Maastricht and Valkenburg. DELUXE CASTLE ROOM, FROM $180;
TOWER SUITE, FROM $250. WITTEMER ALLEE 3, 6286 AA WITTEM. TEL. 43-450-1208. KASTEELWITTEM.NL
BELGIUM MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM12
BELGIUMBRIEFING Belgium’s two largest regions are the Dutch-speaking region of Flanders
(which includes the “Low Country” of Antwerp and the famous medieval city of Bruges,
among other areas) and the southern francophone region of Wallonia. The eastern
half of the country is dominated by the Ardennes: a rugged, densely forested area that
was the site of three major battles in the two world wars. Bruges is a startlingly pictur-
esque city laced by a network of mirror-like canals. Numerous art galleries include the
Groeningemuseum, notable for Flemish primitive paintings. Brussels is the headquar-
ters of both NATO and the European Union. Belgium is famous for beer — more than
500 varieties — chocolate, waffles and french fries. French fries originated in Belgium,
the name referring to the manner in which the potato is sliced: to “french” means to
cut into slivers.
WHEN TO VISIT Belgium’s climate is temperate but seldom settled for long. The
northern, low-lying coastal area is driest and experiences the warmest winters and
coolest summers. Brussels is representative of the showery central region. The hilly
and sparsely populated southern Ardennes area has colder winters with snow and fog.
BRUSSELS
Temp (F) JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Average high 40 45 50 57 64 72 73 72 70 59 48 43
Average low 30 32 36 41 46 52 54 53 52 45 37 32
PM humidity 86 81 74 71 65 65 68 69 69 77 85 86
Days w/rain 21 17 17 18 16 15 17 18 13 17 20 19
Precip (in) 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.5 2.0 3.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 3.5 3.0 3.5
TIME Six hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY Euro (€). Fluctuating rate valued at €1.00 = US$1.12 as of September 2016.
U.S. EMBASSY Brussels, Tel. 2-811-4000.
DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels and restaurants in Belgium, dial 011 (international access) + 32 (Belgium code) + city code and local numbers.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.
GENERAL INFORMATION Visit www.visitbelgium.com before your trip.
“ The dish ‘moules-frites’ originated in Belgium. Mussels,
cheap and prolific on the Flemish coast, were combined with
the fried potatoes that were consumed in winter when
no other food was available.
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 BELGIUM 13
ANTWERP
BRIEFING Dutch-speaking Antwerp is a port and provincial capital in Flanders, one
of Belgium’s three regions. By 1560 it had become the second-largest European city
north of the Alps. Antwerp is famous for having been the home of Peter Paul Rubens,
and the 14th-century Cathedral of Our Lady contains four major works by the painter.
Rubens died in May 1640 and is buried in St. James’ Church. Today, the Royal Museum
of Fine Arts has a magnificent collection of Old Masters, including paintings by Rubens,
Van Dyck and Titian. In August every year, the Bollekesfeest is a showcase for regional
products such as beer from the De Koninck brewery; Elixir d’Anvers, a locally made
liqueur; roasted coffee from Koffie Verheyen; and Poolster pickled herring.
De Witte Lelie A92 Stylish 10-room family-run hotel created from three restored
17th-century canal houses and set around a central courtyard, near the Grote Markt
and old city center. Duplex lodgings and Junior Suites blend a striking white-on-white
contemporary décor with Old World wood accents, marble fireplaces and quality antiques.
Grand 965-square-foot Louis XIV-style Presidential Suite features vaulted ceilings with
ornate moldings, parquet floor, decorative fireplace and elegant crystal chandeliers. The
comfortable accommodations have superb modern baths in gleaming white. Breakfast
is served in-room or next to an elegant fireplace in a light, airy room that opens onto
the courtyard; many excellent restaurants are a short walk away. DUPLEX ROOM, FROM $360;
JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $480. KEIZERSTRAAT 16, 2000 ANTWERP. TEL. 3-226-1966. DEWITTELELIE.BE
De Witte Lelie
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
BELGIUM MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM14
BRIEFING Bruges lies 62 miles northwest of Brussels. By the end of the 13th century,
it had become extravagantly rich thanks to the wool trade. Today it remains an unspoiled
medieval city of gabled brick houses, magnificent churches and café-lined squares. It
is ideal for strolling or cycling; tour boats also cruise the city’s network of picturesque
canals. The two local obsessions are handmade lace and luxury chocolates. Numerous
superb art galleries include the Groeningemuseum, notable for Flemish primitive paintings.
FROM MY NOTEBOOK
■ One of the triumphs of the local cuisine is french fries — thick and twice-fried to crisp
perfection. Unlike at home, the accompaniment is mayonnaise, not ketchup. Although
I would not recommend any of the tourist-trade restaurants abutting the city’s central
Markt, you will find excellent frites at one of the frites vans (frietkot) on the Markt’s
perimeter. For something a bit more refined, you can go to a frites specialist such as
Chez Vincent. SINT-SALVATORSKERKHOF 1.
■ The other local gastronomic passion is chocolate, which comes in every conceivable
variation. I recommend Dominique Persoone’s shop, The Chocolate Line (SIMON STEVINPLEIN
19). If you’ve ever wondered what wasabi chocolate tastes like, this is the place to find
out (Antwerp also has a branch). If you are a purist, head for BbyB (SINT-AMANDSSTRAAT 39),
which offers simple bars of fine Belgian chocolate in colorful boxes.
■ I recommend pausing in the Princely Béguinage Ten Wijngaerde, a cloistered living
space for lay-women. One March, I found the tranquil courtyard awash with daffodils.
BEGIJNHOF 1.
■ An hour outside Bruges, the Flanders Field World War I cemetery and memorial
makes for a moving day trip. ABMC.GOV
Hotel De Tuilerieën / © FILIP BOUSSAUW
BRUGES
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 BELGIUM 15
The Pand Hotel A92 Family-owned 18th-century mansion on a quiet street in the
heart of town. Twenty-six comfortable Old World-style guest accommodations feature
period furniture and provide smallish marble or granite baths; recommended Ralph
Lauren-decorated Junior Suites offer whirlpool tubs, walk-in showers and Hermès toilet-
ries. French and English antiques create a refined atmosphere in the two lounges and
in a pine-paneled library with its open fire and hundreds of fine old books. A congenial
bar is appointed with mahogany furniture and leather Chesterfield armchairs; also has
a peaceful inner garden with fountain. The hotel has no restaurant, but an excellent
breakfast is served in a pretty room off the lobby. Health club around the corner. DELUXE
ROOM, FROM $350; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $490. PANDREITJE 16, 8000 BRUGES. TEL. 5-034-0666. PANDHOTEL.COM
Hotel De Tuilerieën A93 Intimate 45-room hotel in a restored 15th-century
residence along the picturesque Den Dijver canal in the historic center of Bruges, within
walking distance of most major sights. Comfortable, well-appointed rooms feature dark
woods, antiques and paintings and offer views of Renaissance buildings across the canal
or of the covered pool. Philippe Starck-designed lodgings in the newer wing are more
colorful and contemporary. Facilities include a cozy bar with a working fireplace; a
peaceful garden terrace; a paneled reading room/lounge; and a wellness complex with
small indoor heated swimming pool, whirlpool, sauna and steam bath. Massages arranged
by appointment. A breakfast buffet is served in a sumptuous chandeliered dining room.
EXECUTIVE ROOM, FROM $300; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $420. DIJVER 7, B-8000 BRUGES. TEL. 5-034-3691. HOTELTUILERIEEN.COM
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
Guesthouse Bonifacius A91 Romantic, family-owned 16th-century bed-and-
breakfast tucked away down a small lane and overlooking one of Bruges’ many canals
and the Bonifacius bridge. Just three atmospheric and peaceful guest suites, each
decorated with rich fabrics, antique furniture and objets d’art; granite baths are stocked
with Hermès toiletries and come with sizable Jacuzzi tubs and separate walk-in showers.
Public areas are decorated with heavy carved wooden furniture, ancient chests, old
mirrors and piles of leather-bound books. Cozy lounge features a log-burning fireplace;
breakfast served in the intimate canal-side Gothic Room. Exquisite rooftop terrace with
impressive city views. Convenient base from which to tour the city. JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $360;
SUITE, FROM $420 (MINIMUM STAY MAY APPLY). GROENINGE 4, 8000 BRUGES. TEL. 5-049-0049. BONIFACIUS.BE
“ Bruges lacks a full-service grand hotel, but its atmospheric
smaller hideaways are more than sufficient compensation.
BELGIUM MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM16
BRUSSELS
BRIEFING The cosmopolitan capital of Belgium is a bilingual city where both French
and Dutch are official languages. All of the streets have two names; for example, the main
square is called both La Grand-Place and de Grote Markt. The Grote Markt contains an
array of spectacular Gothic buildings, including the 15th-century Brussels City Hall,
which towers 315 feet above the square and is capped by a 12-foot statue of St. Michael.
Elsewhere, you will find art nouveau museums and art deco residences. Brussels is also
a European gastronomic capital.
FROM MY NOTEBOOK
■ Squares are common enough in European cities, but La Grand-Place in Brussels is a
standout. I love the guild houses, which, during the evenings of April to September, are
washed with colored lights. Christmas is especially lovely with a huge tree and crèche.
■ The city takes pride in its collection of art nouveau buildings and structures — indeed,
it bills itself as the art nouveau capital of the world. Locally, the foremost proponent was
architect Victor Horta, and admirers of the style will find a visit to the Horta Museum
rewarding. Set in Horta’s former home and studio, it features an arresting five-floor
staircase that culminates in a beautiful glass skylight. 25 RUE AMÉRICAINE.
■ Memorable bars in which to try local beers include Au Bon Vieux Temps, which has
an extraordinary Gothic interior (IMPASSE SAINT-NICOLAS 4), and lively A l’Imaige Nostre-Dame
with wood beams and stained glass windows (RUE DU MARCHÉ AUX HERBES 8).
■ The view from the northwest end of the Mont des Arts, on the opposite side of the
square from the Magritte Museum, is memorable at sunset. RUE ROYALE 2-4 - KONINGSTRAAT 2-4.
La Grand-Place / © ISSELEE HUBERT - SOFAM BELGIUM/ISTOCK
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 BELGIUM 17
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS Brussels abounds with good restaurants — not only does
the city have a strong local culinary tradition, but with so many cultures represented,
the dining scene is rewardingly diverse. (PRICES REFLECT APPROXIMATE COST OF DINNER PER PERSON,
EXCLUDING WINE)
BON BON Located in the leafy Uccle quarter, Bon Bon follows an atelier de chef format,
meaning that young chef Christophe Hardiquest decides daily what to serve. Hardiquest
produces Mediterranean-inspired cooking with the finest European produce — on the
ever-changing menu, dishes have included veal from the Corrèze department of France;
king crab from the Barents Sea; and line-caught wild turbot, sea bass and John Dory.
Among his creations have been sea bream on a bed of Swiss chard and baby mussels,
and roasted pigeon with chanterelles and tarragon gnocchi. CLOSED MONDAY LUNCH AND ALL DAY
SATURDAY AND SUNDAY. AVENUE DE TERVUEREN 453. TEL. 2-346-6615. FIVE-COURSE MENU, US$195; CHEF'S MENU, US$250.
COMME CHEZ SOI This family-run gastronomic mecca features a striking art nouveau
dining room that serves classic dishes such as sole fillets with a mousseline of Riesling
and shrimps; or young pigeon from Poitou with smoked curry and cubeb pepper, tarragon
and sherry vinegar. CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY, CLOSED TUESDAY AND WEDNESDAY FOR LUNCH. PLACE ROUPPE
23. TEL. 2-512-2921. US$135. FOUR-COURSE MENU, US$115; FIVE COURSES, US$170; SIX COURSES, US$225 AND US$270.
L’ECAILLER DU PALAIS ROYAL Paneled walls and plaid fabrics foster a warm, clublike
atmosphere at this hospitable seafood restaurant. The menu offers classics such as sole
stuffed with gray shrimp, and bouillabaisse of North Sea fish, as well as an impressive
service of Petrossian caviar. BODENBROEK 18. TEL. 2-512-8751. US$120.
LE FOURNEAU IBERIQUE Occupying a loftlike space with an open kitchen and a black
granite counter, this spot has proved to be an immediate hit. Contemporary food is served
as tapas-style appetizers and priced-by-the-weight main courses. Starters have included
aged Iberian ham, St. Jacques-style scallops, braised bacon and citrus mousseline, and
a mini-burger of wagyu beef with foie gras mayonnaise and Belgian cheese. Among
recommended main courses are the braised octopus with julienned vegetables, pineapple
and hummus; and Iberian pork loin with fried sweet potatoes and caramelized onions.
CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY. PLACE SAINTE-CATHERINE 8. TEL. 2-513-1002. US$65. SIX-DISH “DISCOVERY” MENU, US$55.
LA VILLA LORRAINE Housed in a renovated mansion, this lavish and elegantly appointed
shrine to gourmet food sits on the fringes of the verdant Bois de la Cambre park. The
traditional French menu might include dishes such as poached foie gras with strawber-
ries, rhubarb and a hibiscus jus; and wagyu beef with anchovy tempura, artichokes and
broad beans. Dining outside on the garden terrace is recommended during the summer.
CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY. AVENUE DU VIVIER D’OIE 75. TEL. 2-374-3163. US$140. FIVE-COURSE MENU, US$130; SEVEN
COURSES, US$175.
“ The menu at L’Ecailler du Palais Royal offers classics such as
sole stuffed with gray shrimp, and bouillabaisse of North Sea fish.
BELGIUM MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM18
Hotel Amigo A93 Superbly re-styled 173-room historic hotel in a picturesque
downtown location, steps from the medieval Grand Place (Grote Markt) and within easy
walking distance of Le Sablon, renowned for antiques and fine art. The ambiance is
enhanced by light-filled public areas with an appealing contemporary décor. Individually
decorated guest rooms offer views of the marketplace or of the churches and spires of
the city. Junior Suites feature separate living rooms, king-size beds, spacious dressing
rooms and large marble baths with tubs, showers and Tintin memorabilia. Dining options
include a fine Italian/Mediterranean restaurant and chic Bar Amigo. Also fully equipped
fitness center. This is Brussels’ prestige address. DELUXE ROOM, FROM $380; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $620.
RUE DE L’AMIGO 1-3, 1000 BRUSSELS. TEL. 2-547-4747. ROCCOFORTEHOTELS.COM P AH BENEFITS
Hotel Amigo
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
Stanhope Hotel A90 Elegant 125-room hotel in several 19th-century former
townhouses within walking distance of designer shops and key attractions, which include
the Royal Palace, Magritte Museum and European Parliament. Rooms and suites are
decorated in classic English style with floral fabrics, warm colors, bookshelves and
lovely antiques; some rooms provide tubs and separate showers. Brighton Restaurant
serves classic French/Mediterranean cuisine in a British-style dining room accented
by hand-painted Chinese frescoes that line the walls or in an interior garden courtyard
with ivy-covered walls; homey Library Bar features leather sofas and a working fireplace.
Fitness center and sauna; massages available by request. CLUB ROOM, FROM $300; SUITE, FROM
$360. RUE DU COMMERCE 9, B-1000 BRUSSELS. TEL. 2-506-9111. THONHOTELS.BE
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 BELGIUM 19
ARDENNES
BRIEFING The Ardennes is a region of forests and rolling hills that is primarily in
Belgium and Luxembourg but also streches into France. The area is typified by steep
valleys carved by fast-flowing rivers, the most prominent of which is the Meuse. The
highly strategic position of the Ardennes has made it a battleground for European powers
for centuries. During the Battle of the Bulge in World War II, the German army launched
a surprise attack here in an attempt to capture Antwerp and drive a wedge between
the American and British forces. Today, visitors come to enjoy the scenic beauty and
outdoor activities such as hunting, cycling, walking and canoeing. The extensive forests
have abundant populations of wild game, which is reflected in the local gastronomy.
Moulin Hideux
Moulin Hideux A94 Handsome brick family-owned auberge tucked in a converted
17th-century gristmill overlooking a serene pond in the Semois Valley near the French
border, two hours southeast of Brussels. Mellow interior contains 12 Provençal-style
guest quarters with well-lit baths and classic floral drapes. Gourmet Michelin one-star
restaurant serves delicious cuisine that employs quality ingredients primarily sourced
from local producers. Common areas include an inviting drawing room (only location
for Wi-Fi) with comfy leather furniture and a log-burning fire, plus a cigar lounge and a
well-maintained garden with tables and parasols. Heated indoor swimming pool, outdoor
solarium, hammam, sauna and tennis court; massages available. Closed mid-December
to mid-March. LUXURY ROOM, $250; SUITE, $300. B-6831 NOIREFONTAINE. TEL. 61-467-015. MOULINHIDEUX.BE
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
SCANDINAVIA MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM20
BORNHOLM
OLAND
GOTLAND
FYN SJÆLLAND
LOLLAND
ALAND
JYLLAND
N o r w e g i a n
S e a
B a r e n t s S e a
N o r t h
S e a
B a l t i c
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R i ga
G u l f o f F i n l a n d
G u l f
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B o t h n i a
S k a g e r r a k
K a t t e ga t
SWEDEN
RUSSIA
FINLAND
BELARUSPOLAND
NORWAY
LITHUANIA
LATVIA
GERMANY
ESTONIA
DENMARK
STOCKHOLM
OSLO
VILNIUS
RIGA
HELSINKI
TALLINN
COPENHAGEN
ST. PETERSBURG
LILLEHAMMER
GOTHENBURG
MALMOODENSE
TURKU
TAMPERE
AARHUS
ALESUND
ICELAND(965 MILES WEST OF TRONDHEIM, NORWAY)
REYKJAVIK
0 130 MI65
0 130 KM65
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6
1 Hôtel d’Angleterre
2 Falsled Kro
3 Ett Hem Lydmar Hotel Grand Hôtel
4 Hotel Continental The Thief
5 Solstrand
6 Hotel Union Øye Storfjord Hotel Hotel Brosundet
7 Hotel KämpAdditional MapsCopenhagen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
HOTEL LOCATORAND TOURING MAP
SCANDINAVIA
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 DENMARK 21
BRIEFING Denmark is made up of the peninsula of Jutland (Jylland) and more than
400 islands scattered throughout the North and Baltic seas, most notably Zealand (Sjael-
land), Funen (Fyn), Vendsyssel-Thy, Lolland, Falster and Bornholm. This seafaring nation
is known for the friendliness of its citizens as well as for its lovely coastal countryside
(nowhere in Denmark is farther than 32 miles from the ocean) and Viking heritage.
The country’s capital, Copenhagen, is arguably the most congenial of the Scandinavian
cities. Denmark is regularly cited as having the world’s highest levels of social mobility
and income equality.
WHEN TO VISIT Denmark’s climate is similar to that of Britain, with mild winters punc-
tuated by occasional cold spells. Summers are temperate, and rain is always a possibility.
COPENHAGEN
Temp (F) JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Average high 36 36 41 50 61 66 72 70 64 54 45 39
Average low 28 27 30 37 46 52 57 56 52 45 37 34
PM humidity 85 83 78 68 59 60 62 64 69 76 83 87
Days w/rain 17 13 12 12 11 13 14 14 15 15 16 17
Precip (in) 2.0 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.7 2.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0
TIME Six hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY Danish krone (DKK). Fluctuating rate valued at DKK6.67 = US$1.00 as of September 2016.
U.S. EMBASSY Copenhagen, Tel. 3341-7100.
DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels and restaurants in Denmark, dial 011 (international access) + 45 (Denmark code) + city code and local numbers.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.
GENERAL INFORMATION Visit goscandinavia.com before your trip.
DENMARKNyhavn, Copenhagen / © CHRIS HEPBURN/ISTOCK
DENMARK MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM22
COPENHAGEN
BRIEFING Copenhagen is an appealing and stylish city, with handsome cobbled
squares and copper-roofed townhouses complemented by elegant modern architecture.
Numerous fine restaurants — the city can usually boast around a dozen with Michelin
stars — serve delicious cuisine employing superb local fish and produce. Copenhagen
is famously pedestrian-friendly and has several classic attractions to commend it,
including Amalienborg Palace and the Strøget promenade. The summer Copenhagen
Jazz Festival is one of the best such events in the world. Since 2000, Copenhagen has
been connected to southern Sweden by the five-mile Øresund Bridge.
FROM MY NOTEBOOK
■ One of the best views in Copenhagen is from Europe’s oldest functioning observa-
tory, the Rundetaarn (Round Tower), which dates to the 17th century. The gradual climb
up seven-and-a-half turns of the tower’s spiral ramp leads to an observation deck 114
feet above ground, providing sweeping views of the city. Go early to miss the crowds.
KØBMAGERGADE 52A.
■ If you have your heart set on dining at hot spots such as Geranium, one way to do
so without booking years in advance is to join a private event arranged by gastronomic
entrepreneur Kristian Brask Thomsen. A former maître d’hôtel who speaks five languages
fluently, Thomsen regularly stages small dinner parties at these Lucullan establishments.
BON-VIVANT.DK
■ Within easy reach of Copenhagen by car or train, the Louisiana Museum of Modern
Art ranks among the world’s top art institutions. The elegant modern structure stands
amid landscaped grounds overlooking the Oresund sound, and, in addition to its excel-
lent permanent collection, it hosts world-class temporary shows. I’ll never forget the
exhibition of Henri Cartier-Bresson photographs I once saw there. Helsingør, where
Shakespeare set “Hamlet,” is five miles farther north. GL. STRANDVEJ 13, HUMLEBÆK.
Hôtel d’Angleterre
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 DENMARK 23
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS One of the most interesting developments on the world
food scene of late has been the emergence of New Nordic cuisine. For the practitioners
of this young style, Copenhagen sets the pace with its innovative restaurants. (PRICES
REFLECT APPROXIMATE COST OF DINNER PER PERSON, EXCLUDING WINE)
AOC Chef Søren Selin has an intriguing gastronomic imagination and a peerless
command of culinary technique. His menus change often, but they are always made
almost exclusively with Danish seasonal produce and run to dishes such as lumpfish
roe, veal and cranberries; and beef with bone marrow, nettles and cep mushrooms. The
vaulted white dining rooms are quietly dramatic, and service is excellent. CLOSED SUNDAY
AND MONDAY. DRONNINGENS TVÆRGADE 2. TEL. 33-11-11-45. PRIX FIXE MENUS, US$200 AND US$245.
CLOU This appealing contemporary restaurant is the rare Copenhagen newcomer where
you can also order à la carte, perhaps selecting dishes such as oysters with passion fruit
vinaigrette; scallops with Jerusalem artichokes, potatoes, Niçoise olives and truffles;
or a delicious dessert of strawberries, macadamia nuts and chocolate. You can elect to
enjoy a different wine with each course of the tasting menus. BORGERGADE 16. TEL. 36-16-30-00.
US$100. THREE-COURSE MENU, US$175; FIVE COURSES, US$250; SEVEN COURSES, US$300.
FORMEL B What began as a well-received exploration of new concepts by bright young
chefs almost careened to ruin at formel B. But, two of those talented chefs whipped
things into shape, and now the restaurant enjoys an exalted reputation as a place to
find superb cooking rooted in French technique and using Nordic produce. In this sleek
setting, look for such dishes as salted Danish cod with crudités, creamy mussel foam
and lovage; langoustine à la nage with carrot purée and local vegetables; and free-range
Danish pork with glazed beets, yogurt and harissa. DINNER ONLY, CLOSED SUNDAY. VESTERBROGADE
182, 1800 FREDERIKSBERG C. TEL. 33-25-10-66. US$105. PRIX FIXE, US$130.
GERANIUM With a striking modern dining room of white walls, charcoal banquettes
and a dark plank floor that overlooks the leafy Fælledparken (Common Gardens),
Geranium offers intriguing New Scandinavian cuisine. The creative, ever-changing
menu by chef Rasmus Kofoed runs to dishes such as salted, gently smoked haddock
with crispy fish scales and clarified buttermilk with parsley stems and Finnish caviar;
slow-cooked Danish pork neck with young cabbage leaves, pickled young garlic, pine
oil and black currant leaves with pork jus; and elderberry jelly for dessert. An organic
vegetarian menu is also offered. CLOSED SUNDAY, MONDAY AND TUESDAY. PER HENRIK LINGS ALLÉ 4.
TEL. 69-96-00-20. PRIX FIXE MENU, US$305.
IDA DAVIDSEN Smørrebrød, or open-faced sandwiches topped with a variety of delicious
ingredients, are a Danish passion. Chef Ida Davidsen is locally famous for serving the best
of these quick eats at her Copenhagen restaurant. Try the smoked salmon with lungfish
caviar, or maybe the “Hans Christian Andersen,” named for the famous children’s writer
and piled high with liver pâté, bacon and tomatoes. CLOSED SATURDAY AND SUNDAY, OPEN FOR LUNCH
ONLY. STORE KONGENSGADE 70. TEL. 33-91-36-55. US$45.
KØDBYENS FISKEBAR This seafood restaurant, which is owned by former noma
manager and sommelier Anders Selmer, pulls a fashionable crowd with an outstanding
menu by chef Jamie Lee. Relaxed and casual, it’s an ideal place to sample dishes
DENMARK MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM24
such as blue mussels in herbed apple cider, or fish and chips in the form of lightly
smoked cod with fried potatoes and remoulade. An excellent selection of oysters
and other fresh shellfish is also available. LUNCH SATURDAY AND SUNDAY ONLY. FLÆSKETORVET 100.
TEL. 32-15-56-56. US$75. SEVEN-COURSE CHEF’S MENU, US$75.
KOKKERIET This fascinating restaurant offers a dynamic interplay of the traditional
and the contemporary. Housed in an old Danish navy barracks dating to the 1600s, the
interior is soothingly minimal but handsome, and the food embodies a mix of Danish and
European traditions and ingredients. The offerings bring together pristine elements in
beautiful presentations, and they have included cod with beets and capers, Jerusalem
artichokes with cep mushrooms and watercress, scallops with pears and verbena, and
pork with celery and parsley. DINNER ONLY, CLOSED SUNDAY. KRONPRINSESSEGADE 64. TEL. 33-15-27-77. US$115.
PRIX FIXE MENUS, US$130 AND US$180.
KONG HANS KAELDER Not all restaurants and cooking styles in Copenhagen stand on
the edge of the culinary horizon — this lovely, romantic restaurant makes its home in a
building that goes back 700 years and was once where Hans Christian Anderson lived.
Set in the cellar, it is an intimate series of spaces defined by vaulted arches, softly lit
to cast a warm glow over the white-linened tables. French tradition pairs with Nordic
ingredients on a menu that features such dishes as the signature roasted black lobster,
which is served with delicate white asparagus and is accompanied by an asparagus-
lobster mousse with a light and frothy asparagus sauce. DINNER ONLY, CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY.
VINGAARDSSTRÆDE 6. TEL. 33-11-68-68. FIVE-COURSE MENU, US$230.
MIELCKE & HURTIGKARL Located in a pretty 18th-century pavilion in the Royal Danish
Horticultural Society’s Garden, this restaurant has a whimsical modern décor and serves
excellent contemporary Danish cooking. The ever-changing, offbeat prix fixe menus
run to dishes such as monkfish foie gras, smoked scallops with onion and coconut, and
venison prepared two ways. The food is fascinating, but it is best suited to the gastro-
nomically adventurous. DINNER ONLY, CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY. FREDERIKSBERG RUNDDEL 1, FREDERIKSBERG.
TEL. 38-34-84-36. MENUS, US$120, US$145 AND US$170.
RELÆ The unassuming appearance of this place belies its high reputation. New head
chef Jonathan Tam is constantly revising the menus. Two tasting menus are served at
dinner with the focus on vegetables, but the menus are not strictly vegan — one is for
omnivores, the other is for vegetarians. CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY, LUNCH AVAILABLE FRIDAY AND
SATURDAY. JÆGERSBORGGADE 41. TEL. 36-96-66-09. FOUR-COURSE MENU, US$75; SEVEN COURSES, US$135.
“ Clou, an appealing
contemporary restaurant,
is the rare Copenhagen
newcomer where you can also
order à la carte.
Amuse bouches of oyster, passion fruit and ginger © THOMAS HOMMELGAARD
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 DENMARK 25
Hôtel d’Angleterre A96 Elegant hotel in renovated 270-year-old neoclassical
building located on Kongens Nytorv, steps from the fashionable Strøget shopping street
and the Royal Danish Theatre. Ninety rooms, some with private balconies, combine modern
touches and technology with refined traditional décor such as plush Champagne-colored
carpets, brocade love seats and stylish writing desks. Large marble baths have soaking tubs
and separate rainfall showers. Modern Nordic/French cuisine at excellent one-star Marchal
restaurant; also contemporary Champagne bar. Other amenities include spa with well-
equipped fitness studio, sauna, steam room and spectacular tile-and-marble indoor swim-
ming pool. DELUXE GUESTROOM, FROM $685; DELUXE JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $1,140. KONGENS NYTORV 34, 1050 COPENHAGEN.
TEL. 33-12-00-95. DANGLETERRE.COM P AH BENEFITS
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Hotels
1 Hôtel d’Angleterre
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
“ Since the late 1990s, Copenhagen has undergone a transformation
from a modest Scandinavian capital into a metropolis of international
significance and appeal.
DENMARK MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM26
ISLAND OF FUNEN
BRIEFING The large island of Funen lies about 85 miles west of Copenhagen. A pretty
and peaceful place, it is known as the “Garden of Denmark” thanks to fertile soil that
yields an abundance of produce. The terrain is generally flat, with the exception of a
wooded ridge in the southwest known ironically to locals as the “Funen Alps.” Its principal
city, Odense, is the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. Egeskov Castle is one of the
best-preserved Renaissance fortresses in Europe. Built in 1554, the majestic red-brick
structure is situated in the middle of a lake and is surrounded by a magnificent park that
includes a maze, a fuchsia garden and an herb garden. Funen is reached from Jutland
by one of the two bridges spanning a channel known as the “Little Belt.”
Falsled Kro A96 Cozy and rustic 16th-century inn set above a charming harbor on
the pastoral island of Funen, one hour from Copenhagen Airport. A thatched-roof manor
and two garden annexes contain 19 guest accommodations (nine suites), some with sitting
areas, fireplaces and verandas. Request one of the spacious terrace suites with white
brick walls, open fireplaces and baths with tubs and separate showers (14, 15, 17-21 or
the particularly charming Room 16). A wood-beamed gourmet restaurant with an open
kitchen offers fresh seafood, smokehouse salmon, game and wild fowl specialties, estate-
grown produce (including berries) and homemade breads and desserts. Complimentary
bikes available; golf and tennis nearby. An evocative and peaceful base for sightseeing.
DOUBLE ROOM, FROM $500; SUITE, FROM $630. ASSENSVEJ 513, 5642 MILLINGE. TEL. 62-68-11-11. FALSLEDKRO.DK
Falsled Kro
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 SWEDEN 27
SWEDENBRIEFING Three hundred years ago, Sweden was one of the great powers of Europe.
However, most of its imperial territories were lost during the 18th and 19th centuries. For
example, the eastern half of Sweden, present-day Finland, was taken by Russia in 1809.
Today, Sweden consistently ranks at the top of lists for health and literacy in a nation,
far ahead of some much wealthier countries. Despite its northern location, Sweden is
warmer and drier than other places at a similar latitude, mainly because of the Gulf
Stream. The country’s 9.9 million citizens are mostly clustered in the southern Øresund
region, a verdant expanse dotted with mirror-like lakes. Much as in the other Nordic
countries, the majority of the population speaks English. The Swedes are justly proud
of the beauty of their country. Highlights include the rustic villages along the Bohuslän
coast, the ancient city of Uppsala (the setting of Bergman’s film “Fanny and Alexander”)
and the two great lakes Vänern and Vättern. Fully 15 percent of the country lies above
the Arctic Circle; Laponia, the largest tract of protected land in Europe, is laced with
pristine rivers and desolate glacial valleys.
WHEN TO VISIT The southern area of Sweden enjoys long, warm summers with many
hours of sunshine. Winter throughout the country is cold and dark.
STOCKHOLM
Temp (F) JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Average high 30 30 37 46 57 66 72 68 59 48 41 36
Average low 23 23 25 34 43 52 57 55 48 41 34 28
PM humidity 83 77 68 60 53 55 59 64 69 76 85 86
Days w/rain 16 14 10 11 11 12 13 14 14 15 16 17
Precip (in) 1.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 2.0 2.0
TIME Six hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY Swedish krona (SEK). Fluctuating rate valued at SEK8.55 = US$1.00 as of September 2016.
U.S. EMBASSY Stockholm, Tel. 8-783-53-00.
DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels and restaurants in Sweden, dial 011 (international access) + 46 (Sweden code) + city code and local numbers.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.
GENERAL INFORMATION Visit goscandinavia.com before your trip.
“ Sweden is connected to Denmark by the five-mile-long Øresund
Bridge. From Copenhagen to Malmö it is a 45-minute drive.
SWEDEN MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM28
STOCKHOLM
BRIEFING Built on 14 major islands, Stockholm is an exceptionally attractive city at
the juncture of Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea. The city’s Old Town is a maze of narrow
medieval streets and baroque palaces, while elsewhere the architecture ranges from
the 18th-century Royal Palace to the Rafael Moneo-designed Museum of Modern Art.
Djurgården, the “Royal Game Park,” is a leafy oasis. Stureplan and Kungsgatan are
Stockholm’s main entertainment districts — home to many of its dozens of theaters and
performance venues — and Södermalm, an island south of the city center, is a hotbed
of fashion. Stockholm’s restaurants have been leaders in the global “fresh and local”
food revolution.
FROM MY NOTEBOOK
■ Although Stockholm today has one of Europe’s most innovative food scenes, I always
look forward to a traditional smörgåsbord. The term is now often used loosely to mean a
buffet, but a true Swedish smörgåsbord is a carefully organized four- to six-course meal.
At the Grand Hôtel, Veranda restaurant (SÖDRA BLASIEHOLMSHAMNEN 8) presents an absolutely
delicious example of the genre.
■ It is worth adding a day to your itinerary to cruise through the Stockholm archi-
pelago to Drottningholm Palace, Sweden’s Schönbrunn. The royal family still resides
in this elegant 17th-century palace surrounded by formal gardens. KUNGAHUSET.SE
■ For panoramic views of the city, walk along the Monteliusvägen path on Södermalm,
a short distance from the southern end of Gamla stan. Nearby, the streets around Mari-
atorget are lined with independent boutiques and restaurants.
■ Stockholm has one of Europe’s most unusual and impressive attractions, the Vasa, a
salvaged 17th-century warship that sank in the harbor on its maiden voyage. The vessel,
in startlingly good condition, is covered with elaborate woodcarvings. GALÄRVARVSVÄGEN 14.
Old Town (Gamla Stan) / © LEONARDO PATRIZI/ISTOCK
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 SWEDEN 29
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS Sweden has always had its own distinctive cuisine, and
now a new generation of innovative chefs is building on that tradition to create exciting
fare that relies heavily on indigenous produce. (PRICES REFLECT APPROXIMATE COST OF DINNER PER
PERSON, EXCLUDING WINE)
GASTROLOGIK The best place to experience the sophisticated New Swedish style of
cuisine is at Gastrologik in the city’s Östermalm district. This intimate spot is the creation
of Executive Chef Jacob Holmström and baker Anton Bjuhr. The daily tasting menu is a
suite of surprises, but what is consistent is the use of local seasonal produce (a hallmark
of New Swedish cooking) as seen in dishes like oysters with fermented cucumber, and
braised oxtail with beer gelée and dried beetroot. Odd as the dishes here may sound,
they’re delicious. CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY, OPEN FOR DINNER ONLY. ARTILLERIGATAN 14. TEL. 8-662-30-60.
PRIX FIXE MENU, US$167.
DEN GYLDENE FREDEN This cozy traditional Swedish restaurant in the medieval Gamla
stan area of Stockholm is perfect for anyone who wants to sample local specialties such
as smoked pike perch with potato terrine, horseradish, apple and rye bread; or Swedish
meatballs with mashed potatoes, cucumbers and lingonberries in a cream sauce. The
wood-floored dining room has an old-fashioned charm — service is courtly, and the wine
list is excellent. CLOSED SUNDAY. ÖSTERLÅNGGATAN 51. TEL. 8-24-97-60. US$85.
ROLFS KÖK Chefs Johan Andersson and Johan Jureskog’s intimate, casual bistro is
one of the most popular restaurants in Stockholm. This is where the city’s chefs come
on their nights off to dine on cosmopolitan comfort food. In addition to classics such
as fish stew with shrimps, clams, cream and aioli, the menu also offers more inventive
dishes, including cavatelli with scallops, pork belly and chanterelles; and roast of lamb
for two with cream, tarragon and cabbage. The long bar is ideal for solo dining. DINNER
ONLY SATURDAY AND SUNDAY. TEGNÉRGATAN 41. TEL. 8-101-696. US$95.
OAXEN KROG Set right by the water and occupying part of a renovated boat shed, this
atmospheric restaurant offers a nautical feel and terrific views. The food is modern
Nordic, or in the words of Magnus Ek, one of two chefs, “We cook our ingredients in a
modern way, but old and traditional techniques are the foundation of our approach.”
Look for dishes as lukewarm trout with sturgeon roe, grilled parsley and rhubarb; and
Linderöd pork glazed with garlic and cabbage with roasted almonds and sage. DINNER ONLY,
CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY. BECKHOLMSVÄGEN 26. TEL. 8-551-531-05. SIX-COURSE MENU, US$188; 10-COURSE MENU, US$245.
“ Den Gyldene Freden, a cozy
traditional Swedish restaurant in
the medieval Gamla stan area of
Stockholm, is perfect for sampling
local specialties.
Meatballs with mashed potatoes and l ingonberries© JANN LIPK A
SWEDEN MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM30
Grand Hôtel A92 Landmark 368-room hotel at the edge of the harbor overlooking
the Royal Palace and Stockholm’s Old Town. Grand lobby features white marble flooring,
19th-century furnishings and bold color accents. Individually decorated lodgings, some
with waterfront views, are both traditional and contemporary in style and offer writing
desks, comfortable sitting areas and sleek marble baths. More-modern rooms in the
refurbished Burmanska Palace wing are recommended. Dining options include Veranda,
for superb classic smörgåsbord, and seasonal alfresco Terrasen, for Mediterranean-
inspired fare. Michelin two-star chef Mathias Dahlgren will open a new restaurant in
the first quarter of 2017. Lavish Nordic Spa & Fitness with eight treatment rooms, a pool,
hot saunas and cool dipping pools. DELUXE WATER VIEW ROOM, FROM $680; JUNIOR WATER VIEW SUITE, FROM
$830. SÖDRA BLASIEHOLMSHAMNEN 8, 103 27 STOCKHOLM. TEL. 8-679-35-00. GRANDHOTEL.SE P AH BENEFITS
Ett Hem A93 Exceptionally congenial 12-room hideaway in a 1910 art nouveau
mansion set within a brick-walled garden in the city’s quiet Lärkstaden district. Decorated
with marvelous attention to detail, bright rooms include features such as herringbone
oak parquet floors, crystal chandeliers, leather sofas, woodburning ceramic stoves and
baths with roomy white marble stall showers; most suites have private balconies and
separate sitting areas. A glass conservatory off the open kitchen offers a homey spot to
read and relax; also a terrace with chaises for relaxing in fine weather. Lunch and dinner
are served in the kitchen, more formally in the library or in the greenhouse. Also has a
wellness area with sauna, a lounge for massage treatments and a large, well-equipped
fitness room. Restaurants and shops nearby. DELUXE DOUBLE ROOM, FROM $600; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM
$850. SKÖLDUNGAGATAN 2, 114 27 STOCKHOLM. TEL. 8-20-05-90. ETTHEM.SE P AH BENEFITS
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
Lydmar Hotel A93 Stylish 46-room boutique hotel next door to the National
Museum on Stockholm’s harborside promenade, in a five-story 1829 structure that once
housed part of the museum’s archive. Guest rooms are grouped around engaging living-
room-like landings. Individually decorated accommodations offer city, waterfront or park
views and vary considerably in size. Attractively furnished in modern Swedish design,
lodgings include king-size beds, built-in cabinets, leather chairs and velvet curtains on
tall windows; spacious tiled baths have tub/showers. Amenities include an animated bar
and an inviting restaurant for French-influenced regional cuisine; frequent art shows
and small concerts. Relaxing terrace on the second floor for drinks and cocktails (open
May-September). No on-site spa or fitness facility. MEDIUM KING ROOM, FROM $600; LARGE STREET
ROOM, FROM $940. SÖDRA BLASIEHOLMSHAMNEN 2, 103 24 STOCKHOLM. TEL. 8-22-31-60. LYDMAR.COM P AH BENEFITS
“ Sweden, like Denmark, is a design-conscious country, and
its hotels are invariably stylish. I wish every major city could boast
the same.
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 SWEDEN 31Ett Hem
NORWAY MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM32
BRIEFING Owing to large oil and gas deposits in the North and Norwegian seas,
Norway today ranks as one of the top 10 wealthiest countries in the world, with the largest
capital reserve per capita of any nation. Norway’s landscape is exceptionally dramatic;
in particular, the famous fjords comprise some of the most impressive coastal scenery
found anywhere. Because of Norway’s high latitude, from late May to late July much of
the country experiences up to 20 hours of light each day.
WHEN TO VISIT The coast of Norway is warmed by the Gulf Stream, and around
Oslo the climate is generally temperate. However, the country extends above the Arctic
Circle, where summers are pleasant, but winters are exceptionally cold.
OSLO
Temp (F) JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Average high 28 30 39 50 61 68 72 70 61 48 37 32
Average low 19 19 25 34 43 50 55 54 46 37 30 25
PM humidity 82 74 64 57 52 55 59 61 66 72 83 85
Days w/rain 15 12 9 11 10 13 15 14 14 14 16 17
Precip (in) 2.0 1.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 3.0 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5
TIME Six hours ahead of New York (EST).
CU RRENCY Nor wegian krone (NOK). Fluctuating rate valued at NOK8.31 = US$1.00 as of September 2016.
U.S. EMBASSY Oslo, Tel. 2130-8540.
DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Norway, dial 011 (international access) + 47 (Norway code) + city code and local numbers.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.
GENERAL INFORMATION Visit goscandinavia.com before your trip.
Nordfjord / © PAFF Y69/ISTOCK / THINKSTOCK
NORWAY
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 NORWAY 33
Hotel Continental A94 Opulent family-run Victorian hotel in the heart of Oslo,
and opposite the National Theatre, with a fine art collection that includes prints by
Norwegian expressionist Edvard Munch. The 155 rooms are individually decorated in a
combination of classical and contemporary styles with elements such as hand-painted
wallpaper, soft fabrics and surprising touches of color; some offer views toward the harbor
and the fjord. Five restaurants and bars include the lovely Eik Annen Etage restaurant
for fine dining, plus Viennese-style Theatercaféen and the Steamen sidewalk café. Also
modern 24-hour fitness facilities on the fourth floor; massage treatments available by
appointment at an off-site spa/wellness center a five-minute walk from the hotel. DELUXE
ROOM, FROM $520; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $700. STORTINGSGATEN 24/26, N-0117 OSLO. TEL. 22-82-40-00. HOTELCONTINENTAL.NO
OSLO
BRIEFING Oslo occupies an arc of land at the northernmost end of the Oslofjord and
is surrounded by green hills and mountains. Although its population is small compared
with that of most European capitals (at about 660,000), the urban area is unusually
spread out. There are 40 islands within the city limits and no fewer than 343 lakes.
Oslo is one of the few major cities where people live with the wilderness literally in
their backyards. Suburban train lines allow the fortunate inhabitants to simply step
out of the carriage and start hiking or skiing. The city is an important maritime center
and hosts some of the world’s largest shipping companies, shipbrokers and insurance
brokers. Along with places such as Zurich and Tokyo, Oslo is often listed among the most
expensive cities in the world.
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
The Thief A91 Luxurious waterfront hotel in the center of the Tjuvholmen neigh-
borhood within walking distance of the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art. Public
areas are adorned with original contemporary artwork collected by the hotel’s owner,
Petter Stordalen. The 118 rooms feature large baths with rainfall showers (many with
separate tubs), floor-to-ceiling windows, private balconies and sitting areas furnished
with Antonio Citterio armchairs. The industrial-style restaurant offers Scandinavian-
inspired global cuisine; also Fru K for five- or seven-course menus that change season-
ally. Other amenities include a scenic rooftop terrace serving light snacks and cocktails
during summer months; an atmospheric lounge/library; and a full-service spa with
Turkish hammams, six treatment rooms, a 40-foot swimming pool and a gym. DELUXE ROOM,
FROM $400; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $640. LANDGANGEN 1, 0252 OSLO. TEL. 24-00-40-00. THETHIEF.COM
“ Edvard Munch grew up in Oslo, which is also the place where
he spent the last decades of his life. Today Oslo houses a majority of
Munch’s best-known masterpieces.
NORWAY MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM34
THE FJORDS
BRIEFING Virtually the entire coastline of Western Norway is indented by a succes-
sion of long, narrow fjords caused by glacial erosion. Hardangerfjord, Boknafjord and
Sognefjord are the best-known. The latter stretches for 127 miles inland from the ocean to
the small village of Skjolden. Typically the fjords have steep sides threaded by dramatic
waterfalls, with Syv Systre, Toka Gorge and Vøringsfossen among the most beautiful.
The coast is linked by a network of comfortable ferries from the Hurtigruten company,
which call at 34 ports between Bergen and Kirkenes. Western Norway consists of the
counties of Rogaland, Hordaland, Sogn og Fjordane and Møre og Romsdal. The region
has a population of approximately 1.3 million people, and the largest cities are Bergen
and Stavanger.
Alesund / © KENSORRIE/ISTOCK
Solstrand A95 Historic 1896 Swiss chalet-style hotel owned by the same family
for four generations on the shore of Bjørnefjord, less than 20 miles from downtown
Bergen. The 135 airy guest accommodations primarily employ oak, birch and soapstone
and feature original art and private balconies or garden patios. Be sure to request a
fjord-facing room. Gourmet seafood-oriented restaurant serves Western Norwegian
specialties. Other amenities include a beach with a bathing pier (open year-round);
30 acres of manicured gardens; and a wellness area comprising indoor and outdoor
swimming pools, a fitness center, hot therapy pools and a Finnish sauna. Yoga sessions,
boating excursions and kayaking tours available. EXECUTIVE ROOM, FROM $250; SOUTHWEST-FACING
DELUXE ROOM, FROM $340 (MEAL PLAN AVAILABLE). SOLSTRANDVEIEN 200, 5201 OS. TEL. 56-57-11-00. SOLSTRAND.COM
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 NORWAY 35
Storfjord Hotel A92 Boutique 23-room hideaway set in Glomset on a hillside
overlooking the fjord and Sunmmøre Alps. Accommodations are done in a rustic-chic
décor with handcrafted log walls, dark wood and leather accents, classic Norwegian
furnishings and four-poster beds; feature lounge areas and private balconies with
forest or fjord views. The two-bedroom Storfjord Suite — featuring a fireplace, large
sitting and dining spaces and a luxury bath with freestanding tub and separate rainfall
shower — is ideal for families. The dining room serves regionally inspired cuisine that
primarily sources products from local farmers, cheesemakers and brewers. Fishing,
hiking, high-speed boating trips, kayaking and golf at a nearby 18-hole course available;
cooking classes can also be arranged. DELUXE DOUBLE, FROM $240; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $400 (MINIMUM
STAY MAY APPLY). ØVRE GLOMSET, N-6260 SKODJE. TEL. 70-27-49-22. STORFJORDHOTEL.COM
Hotel Union Øye A94 Tranquil manor house dating from 1891 in the small village
of Øye by the Norangsfjord and Sunmmøre Alps. Each of the 27 individually decorated
rooms and suites is named after the hotel’s past royal or dignitary guests including Kaiser
Wilhelm II, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and Karen Blixen. Lodgings feature rich fabrics,
period furnishings and unique memorabilia and antiques; most offer four-poster beds
and baths with separate showers and tubs. Gracious public areas comprising multiple
lounges and a library are adorned with ornate chandeliers and carefully selected
artwork. Romantic three-course dinners that employ locally sourced ingredients are
served in the elegant Sun Lounge. Outdoor activities include sea safaris through the
majestic Hjørundfjord, hiking to the summit of Mount Slogen, rafting excursions, biking,
kayaking and skiing. DOUBLE ROOM, FROM $180. NO-6196 NORANGSFJORDEN. TEL. 70-06-21-00. UNIONOYE.NO
“ In Svalbard, Norway — the northernmost inhabited region of
Europe — there is no sunset from around April 19 to August 23.
Hotel Brosundet A90 Intimate 47-room waterfront property in a renovated
1904 warehouse, found along the historic old harbor in the city of Alesund. Designed
by renowned architectural firm Snøhetta, the chic guest rooms and suites feature art
nouveau interiors, white stained oak furnishings, a neutral color palette, exposed wooden
beams, glass paneling and baths with cream tiles and frosted glass. Opt for one of the
seaview accommodations. Restaurant MAKI specializes in seafood dishes and serves
four-course or six-course gourmet tasting menus in the evenings; an atmospheric bar
with modern lamps, leather chairs and a copper countertop offers an extensive wine
menu and cocktail list. Outdoor activities include sea rafting, fishing, trekking, biking,
helicopter tours and skiing; 18-hole Solnør Gaard golf course nearby. DOUBLE ROOM WITH SEA
VIEW, FROM $200. APOTEKERGATA 5, N-6004 ALESUND. TEL. 70-11-45-00. BROSUNDET.NO
FINLAND MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM36
Old Town, Helsinki / © SCANRAIL /ISTOCK / THINKSTOCK
FINLAND
BRIEFING Finland is Europe’s most sparsely populated country with about 5.4 million
inhabitants, more than a fifth of whom live in the Greater Helsinki area. Historically a
part of Sweden, and from 1809 an autonomous grand duchy within the Russian Empire,
Finland declared its independence in 1917. A country of lakes and islands, it is mostly
flat and forested.
WHEN TO VISIT Finland has a severe winter climate resembling that of Alaska. By
contrast, summers can be surprisingly warm. Beyond the Arctic Circle, the long dura-
tion of the midsummer sunshine compensates for the northerly latitude. The weather
can be changeable in all seasons, so be prepared.
HELSINKI
Temp (F) JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Average high 27 25 32 43 57 66 72 68 59 46 37 30
Average low 16 14 19 30 39 48 55 54 46 37 30 23
PM humidity 87 82 70 66 58 59 63 67 72 79 86 89
Days w/rain 20 18 14 13 12 13 14 15 15 18 19 20
Precip (in) 2.0 1.5 1.5 2.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5
TIME Seven hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY Euro (€). Fluctuating rate valued at €1.00 = US$1.12 as of September 2016.
U.S. EMBASSY Helsinki, Tel. 9-616-250.
DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Finland, dial 011 (international access) + 358 (Finland code) + city code and local numbers.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for three months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.
GENERAL INFORMATION Visit goscandinavia.com before your trip.
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 FINLAND 37
Hotel Kämp A93 Lavish 179-room historic hotel located opposite Esplanade Park
in the city’s principal upscale shopping area. A majestic circular lobby is surrounded by
huge fluted columns highlighted with gold leaf. While the interior is a faithful re-creation
of 19th-century opulence, renovations have added contemporary accents such as colorful
graphic prints to the public areas and Deluxe Rooms and upgraded all technological
amenities. Exceptionally comfortable rooms feature luxurious duvets and feather pillows,
plus marble baths with tubs, separate walk-in showers and heated floors. Stylish Yume
offers imaginative modern Asian cuisine; also elegant brasserie and stylish cocktail
bar. Facilities include a spa by ESPA with Finnish and Turkish saunas and a high-tech
gym staffed by personal trainers and nutritionists. DELUXE ROOM, FROM $400; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM
$750. POHJOISESPLANADI 29, 00100 HELSINKI. TEL. 9-576-111. HOTELKAMP.COM
HELSINKI
BRIEFING Helsinki was originally called Helsingfors when it was founded in 1550 by
King Gustav I of Sweden, and it was meant to be a rival to nearby Tallinn. Located on the
shore of the Gulf of Finland, it is spread across a number of islands. Helsinki’s neoclas-
sical architecture has earned it the epithet “the White City of the North.” However, it
is also famous for its art nouveau buildings. The leading figure of Finnish art nouveau
was Eliel Saarinen, whose masterpiece is Helsinki Central railway station. Owing to the
northern latitude, midwinter days last fewer than six hours. Conversely, summer days
extend for almost 19 hours at the solstice.
Hotel Kämp / © RIIKK A K ANTINKOSKI
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
BALTIC STATES MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM38
RUSSIA(EXCLAVE)
FYN
SJÆLLAND
LOLLAND
SAAREMAA
HIIUMAA
JYLLAND
MUHU
GOTLAND
ALAND
N o r w e g i a n
S e a
B a r e n t s S e a
N o r t h
S e aB a l t i c
S e a
G u l f
o f
R i ga
G u l f o f F i n l a n d
S k a g e r r a k
K a t t e ga t
SWEDEN
RU
SS
IA
FINLAND
BELARUSPOLAND
NORWAY
LITHUANIA
LATVIA
GERMANY
ESTONIA
DENMARK
STOCKHOLM
OSLO
VILNIUS
RIGA
HELSINKI
TALLINN
COPENHAGEN
ST. PETERSBURG
LILLEHAMMER
ODENSE
AARHUS
ICELAND(965 MILES EAST OF TRONDHEIM, NORWAY)
REYKJAVIK
0 130 MI65
0 130 KM65
3
2
BERGEN
TRONDHEIM
2
1
4
TARTU
DAUGAVPILS
KAUNAS
LIEPAJA
KLAIPEDA
1 The Three Sisters
2 Pädaste Manor
3 Hotel Bergs
4 Stikliai Hotel
BALTIC STATES
HOTEL LOCATORAND TOURING MAP
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 ESTONIA 39
ESTONIABRIEFING This tiny country has been pulled to and fro throughout the ages. Sweden
ceded control to Russia in the 18th century, and following a window of independence
beginning in 1918, Estonia was usurped by the Soviet Union after World War II. Today,
Estonia is a member of the European Union. Tallinn, on the Gulf of Finland, is the capital
and commercial center, with a splendid walled medieval city at its heart. In the southeast,
Tartu, the second-largest city, is an academic center with student-filled cafés, markets,
bistros, a wealth of museums and magnificently restored churches. About 1,500 islands
lie off the country’s craggy coast. Muhu is among the most picturesque: a mossy, wooded
refuge centered on a charming 16th-century village.
WHEN TO VISIT Estonia has a temperate climate. The weather is typically breezy
and humid because of the country’s proximity to the Baltic Sea. The western coastal
areas are noticeably warmer than the inland regions. July is the ideal month for a visit.
TALLINN
Temp (F) JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Average high 25 25 32 45 57 66 68 66 59 50 37 28
Average low 14 14 19 32 41 50 54 52 48 39 30 19
PM humidity 86 83 77 66 63 55 59 64 69 79 86 87
Days w/rain 19 16 13 11 12 10 13 15 16 17 18 19
Precip (in) 1.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.5 1.5 2.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5
TIME Seven hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY Euro (€). Fluctuating rate valued at €1.00 = US$1.12 as of September 2016.
U.S. EMBASSY Tallinn, Tel. 668-8100.
DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Estonia, dial 011 (international access) + 372 (Estonia code) + city code and local numbers.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for three months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.
GENERAL INFORMATION Visit visitestonia.com before your trip.
“ Many people visit Tallinn during the course of a Scandinavian
cruise. Personally, I think the city and the Baltic states in general
deserve more thorough investigation on a leisurely journey done
by car.
ESTONIA MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM40
TALLINN
BRIEFING The Estonian capital of Tallinn is one of the most delightful destinations
in the Baltic countries. Its Old Town is one of the best-preserved in Europe, surrounded
by thick medieval walls that are punctuated by imposing watchtowers. Having escaped
from a much-hated 45-year Soviet bear hug, Tallinn now offers a prewar cityscape,
a lively café scene, excellent restaurants and fascinating, imaginatively presented
museums. The Old Town is a stroller’s delight: As in many medieval European cities,
you generally can’t go wrong by beginning your ambles in the central square (“Raekoja
plats”) and radiating outward from there. At Toompea, the hill on which sit the remains
of the castle the city was founded around, you can finish your day with a drink inside
the Neitsitorn (“Maiden’s Tower”). The views are tremendous.
The Three Sisters / © RELAIS & CHATEAUX
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
The Three Sisters A93 Luxurious boutique hotel of 23 rooms and suites created
from three gabled merchants’ houses dating from 1362 and well-located on a quiet, cobbled
medieval street in the city’s picturesque Old Town. Every room is individually decorated,
but all feature exposed beams, parquet floors, goose-down duvets and a mix of antique
and contemporary furniture. Brazilian slate baths are appointed with power showers
and modern fixtures. Preferred lodgings are the attic suites, the singular charm of which
comes from their many dormer windows and skylights. Exceptional small restaurant
serves contemporary French cuisine and is further distinguished by an outstanding
wine cellar (live piano music on weekends). In-room massages are available. DELUXE ROOM,
FROM $280; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $420. PIKK 71, TOLLI 2, 10133 TALLINN. TEL. 630-6300. THREESISTERSHOTEL.COM
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 ESTONIA 41
Pädaste Manor
Pädaste Manor A95 Tranquil and exquisitely restored 24-room manor house
on the tiny island of Muhu. Set beside the Baltic, the property comprises the original
19th-century mansion, plus two wings of fieldstone outbuildings. Duplex Junior Suites
have private balconies and are comfortably furnished with feather duvets and Estonian
linen coverlets. At dusk, the grounds of the estate are lit by flaming torches, and dinner
is served at the edge of the sea. Fine dining at Alexander restaurant; wine tasting in
the cellar. Superb spa offers a variety of indigenous treatments, including mud wraps
(the locals have been daubing themselves with the stuff for centuries), “baths” in newly
mown hay, and relaxing soaks in seawater heated by a woodburning stove. DELUXE MANOR
HOUSE ROOM, FROM $450; JUNIOR CARRIAGE HOUSE SUITE, FROM $720. 94716 MUHU ISLAND. TEL. 454-8800. PADASTE.EE
MUHU ISLAND
BRIEFING It is an easy and pleasant two-hour drive south from Tallinn to the port of
Virtsu, where you board the ferry for the hourlong crossing to the tiny island of Muhu.
Along the way, the road meanders through pine forests and pastures dotted with wild-
flowers. In winter, Muhu is connected to the mainland by an ice road.
“ Muhu is scenic, pastoral and untouched by the outside world.
The island is famous for its rare orchids and migratory birds.
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
LATVIA MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM42
LATVIA
BRIEFING Like its neighbors Estonia (to the north) and Lithuania (south), Latvia has
frequently found itself embroiled in grand geopolitical struggles. It emerged as an inde-
pendent republic from the Soviet shadow in the 1990s, and it joined the European Union
barely a decade later. Riga, the capital, mingles modern and medieval architecture, but
its suburbs are dreary with Soviet concrete. Latvians embrace the long northern winters
with skiing and ice sculpture. In spring and summer, citizens head for the rugged coasts
and their long stretches of sand. Jūrmala, 24 miles from the capital, is a thriving resort
town. The countryside is well-stocked with stately castles and manors.
WHEN TO VISIT Proximity to the sea brings high levels of precipitation. Despite the
country’s northern latitude, the effects of the Gulf Stream keep the climate moderate.
TIME Seven hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY Euro (€). Fluctuating rate valued at €1.00 = US$1.12 as of September 2016.
U.S. EMBASSY Riga, Tel. 671-07-000.
DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Latvia, dial 011 (international access) + 371 (Latvia code) + city code and local numbers.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.
GENERAL INFORMATION Visit latvia.travel before your trip.
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
Hotel Bergs A90 Stylish and contemporary 38-room hotel housed within a 19th-
century brick building in central Riga, a short walk from Old Town. Public spaces feature
checkerboard tile floors; art nouveau fireplaces; and a mixture of Latvian antiques,
contemporary art and African masks. Light, spacious rooms have dark wood floors, white
walls hung with contemporary art, full kitchenettes, modern baths (with heated floors)
and clean-lined chairs and sofas. Large Loft Suites have mezzanine bedrooms reached
by wooden circular staircases. Also features a countryside residence in a historic manor
house for family gatherings or executive retreats. Excellent Restaurant Bergs offers
contemporary/Continental cuisine, plus summer terrace and glass veranda. Massage
room and small gym; swimming pool, golf and tennis available nearby. LOFT SUITE, FROM $320;
PENTHOUSE SUITE, FROM $460. BERGS BAZAAR, 83/85 ELIZABETES STREET, 1050 RIGA. TEL. 677-70-900. HOTELBERGS.LV
Riga / © VISUALSPACE/ISTOCK
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 LITHUANIA 43
BRIEFING The southernmost of the three former Soviet Baltic republics, Lithuania
was the first to declare its renewed independence (in 1990). In common with the other
Baltic capitals, Vilnius’ Old Town center is a UNESCO World Heritage site. To the west, the
cities of Kaunas and Trakai have dramatic castles, and the latter hosts a national opera,
ballet and symphony. Kernavė, the ancient capital, was a medieval town destroyed in
the late 14th century. In the summer, it is now the setting for colorful folklore festivals.
Lithuania’s forests and marshlands are preserved in numerous national parks, many
of which also host “ethnographic reserves,” where old villages with unpaved roads and
thatched-roof farmsteads are protected alongside the rare birds and old-growth pines.
WHEN TO VISIT Lithuania has both maritime and continental climates, with inland
areas conspicuously colder than the coast. Summers are mild and wet.
TIME Seven hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY Euro (€). Fluctuating rate valued at €1.00 = US$1.12 as of September 2016.
U.S. EMBASSY Vilnius, Tel. 5-266-5500.
DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Lithuania, dial 011 (international access) + 370 (Lithuania code) + city code and local numbers.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.
GENERAL INFORMATION Visit lithuania.travel before your trip.
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
Stikliai Hotel A91 Ideally located 43-room hotel comprised of a complex of
16th-century houses with baroque and Gothic features in the center of picturesque Old
Town. Junior Suites are richly decorated in classic and contemporary styles and include
bedrooms with four-poster king-size beds and living/sitting room areas. Ample marble
baths provide heated floors, deep soaking tubs and separate glass-walled showers.
Romantic gourmet restaurant with vaulted glass roof serves seasonally inspired regional
cuisine; a vaulted basement tavern for Lithuanian and European dishes; and a bar in the
main lobby with a fireplace, light fare menu and billiard room. Library, indoor heated
swimming pool in the cellar, sauna, spa treatment room and gym. JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $500;
SUITE, FROM $620. GAONO STR. 7, 01131 VILNIUS. TEL. 5-264-9595. STIKLIAI.COM
LITHUANIATrakai Castle / © VIDAS K AUPELIS/ISTOCK / THINKSTOCK
POLAND MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM44
POLAND
BRIEFING Poland is a country of immense beauty: the Baltic seacoast, the lake districts
bordering Lithuania and Belarus, the ancient forests of the middle country, the Carpathian
mountain ranges to the south. Most visitors are drawn to Kraków, which rivals Prague
in medieval splendor. A three-hour train ride south of Warsaw, this romantic Baroque
city (undamaged during World War II) is a treasure trove of Polish art and architecture.
WHEN TO VISIT The climate of Poland is quite consistent, although it is generally
cooler as you move east and south. Winters are long, and summers are showery. July
is the ideal month for a visit.
WARSAW
Temp (F) JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Average high 32 32 43 54 68 73 75 73 66 55 43 36
Average low 21 21 28 37 48 54 59 57 50 41 34 27
PM humidity 84 80 70 61 56 59 63 63 64 73 83 87
Days w/rain 15 14 11 13 11 13 16 13 12 12 12 16
Precip (in) 1.0 1.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 4.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 1.5
TIME Six hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY Polish zloty (PLN). Fluctuating rate valued at PLN3.89 = US$1.00 as of September 2016. Some hotels quote rates in euros (€); €1.00 = US$1.12 as of September 2016.
U.S. EMBASSY Warsaw, Tel. 22-504-2000. Consulate: Kraków, Tel. 12-424-5100. A U.S. consular agent is located in Poznan, Tel. 61-851-8516.
DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Poland, dial 011 (international access) + 48 (Poland code) + city code and local numbers.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay). Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.
GENERAL INFORMATION Visit poland.travel before your trip.
Old Town, Warsaw / © ROSSHELEN/ISTOCK / THINKSTOCK
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 POLAND 45
WARSAW
GDANSKSOPOT
KRAKOW
B a l t i c S e a
GE
RM
AN
Y
POLAND
CZECHREPUBLIC
SLOVAKIA UK
RA
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BE
LA
RU
S
RUSSIA(EXCLAVE)
LITHUANIA
HUNGARYROMANIA
DENMARK
0
0 100 KM
100 MI
1 H
R b
y ai
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1 HR by air
1
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43
Malbork Castle
AUSTRIA
1 Hotel Bristol Mamaison Hotel Le Regina
2 Hotel Copernicus
3 Kania Lodge
4 Hotel Podewils
HOTEL LOCATORAND TOURING MAP
POLAND MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM46
WARSAW
Hotel Bristol A92 Prestigious 206-room turn-of-the-century hotel on the city’s most
fashionable street, a short stroll from the Old Town district, Royal Castle and National
Opera. Elegantly designed guest rooms, many with balconies, feature high ceilings;
chandeliers; marble baths; small sitting areas; and views of the park, the Presidential
Palace or the stylish “King’s Walk.” Beautifully restored public areas include the classic
rotunda lobby, the excellent Marconi Restaurant for classic Polish fare and the popular
Viennese-style Café Bristol, plus an inviting piano bar and a wine bar with a summer
terrace. There is also a health/fitness club with steam room, sauna, massage room and
heated indoor swimming pool. High level of personal service. JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $400; GRAND
SUITE, FROM $580. KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIESCIE 42/44, 00-325 WARSAW. TEL. 22-551-1000. HOTELBRISTOLWARSAW.PL
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina A92 Stylish 61-room (three suites) boutique hotel
set within a restored 18th-century palace in a quiet area of Warsaw, close to the Old Town,
a picturesque park, the National Opera and the Vistula River. Guest rooms, decorated
in palettes of natural colors, are appointed with elegant, Italian-made custom wooden
furniture; marble-floored baths provide twin vanities and combination tub/showers.
Spacious and comfortable Deluxe Rooms feature small terraces and oak floors; suites
include roomy living areas. The hotel restaurant, La Rotisserie, is open to a courtyard in
summer and serves Italian- and Polish-inflected French cuisine. Other amenities include
a modern fitness center, indoor swimming pool, sauna and massage room. DELUXE ROOM,
FROM $350; SUITE, FROM $515. KOSCIELNA 12, 00-218 WARSAW. TEL. 22-531-6000. MAMAISONLEREGINA.COM
BRIEFING Warsaw is located on the Vistula River about 230 miles from the Baltic Sea.
Its mixture of architectural styles reflects the city’s turbulent history — in World War
II, Warsaw was razed by the Nazis, resulting in the deaths of around 200,000 civilians.
Nowadays, the Old Town has been completely restored, and its fine medieval architecture
includes the city walls and the majestic 14th-century St. John’s Archcathedral. Many
of Warsaw’s museums suffered irreparable damage in the war; however, in July 2004
the Warsaw Rising Museum opened in the district of Wola. The renowned International
Chopin Piano Competition takes place in Warsaw every five years, the next occasion
being 2020.
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
“ Chopin was born near Warsaw in 1810. By the age of seven he
had composed two polonaises, one in G minor and one in B-flat major,
and he had started making public performances.
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 POLAND 47
KRAKOW
BRIEFING Until 1596, Kraków was the capital of Poland. The city has traditionally been
one of the leading centers of Polish cultural life. The current plan of the Old Town (Stare
Miasto) was laid out in the 13th century and features a Main Square (Rynek Główny),
which is the largest medieval town square in Europe. At the center of the square is the
Renaissance Sukiennice (Cloth Hall), which features the National Museum art gallery.
FROM MY NOTEBOOK
■ Many visitors find their way to the famous Wierzynek restaurant, which serves
classic Polish cuisine (RYNEK GŁÓWNY 16). Additionally, the artists’ café Jama Michalika has
literary associations extending back more than a century (FLORIANSKA 45).
■ Kraków also has one of the great small museums in Europe, housed in the stately
Czartoryski Palace. Leonardo da Vinci’s stunning “Lady with an Ermine” alone is worth
the price of admission (CZARTORYSKICH 8).
Hotel Copernicus A92 Charming 29-room boutique hotel housed in a Gothic
residence that fronts a picturesque old street near the Royal Castle. Medieval portals,
15th-century decorative wood ceilings and Renaissance artifacts accent the restored
interior, which includes a traditional restaurant and bar, library, atrium courtyard, wine-
tasting cellar and panoramic rooftop terrace. Guest rooms feature handsome wood and
leather furnishings, high ceilings, period furniture, tall windows, fine draperies, wood
floors and baths finished in travertine and marble. Junior Suites, two with striking castle
and church views, include separate sitting rooms. Amenities include an indoor pool and
small Spa by L’Occitane housed in the medieval cellars of the house. LUXURY DOUBLE ROOM,
FROM $280; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $340. UL. KANONICZA 16, 31-002 KRAKÓW. TEL. 12-424-3400. COPERNICUS.HOTEL.COM.PL
Hotel Copernicus
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
POLAND MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM48
GDANSK REGION
BRIEFING Gdańsk (formerly Danzig) is situated on the Baltic coast of northern Poland
in the region of Pomerania. Poland’s principal seaport, the city has had a complex political
history, with periods of both Polish and German rule as well as two spells as a free city.
Gdańsk was the birthplace of the Solidarity movement that, under the leadership of Lech
Wałęsa, played a major role in bringing an end to communist rule across central Europe.
Nowadays, the Old Town has been scrubbed clean, and its cobblestoned streets are lined
with picturesque burgher houses and Gothic churches. Gdańsk forms a so-called “Tri-
City” with Gdynia and the Baltic beach resort of Sopot, which has a population of about
40,000 people and is 20 minutes by train from Gdańsk. A fashionable seaside spa town
during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Sopot derives much of its character from
its art nouveau townhouses and villas.
Hotel Podewils A90 Charming and comfortable 10-room hotel occupying an
attractive 1728 stone mansion in the Old Town of Gdańsk on the banks of the Motława
River, with views over the city’s marina and minutes from the Central Maritime Museum.
Spacious and comfortable color-themed rooms are individually decorated and include
patterned walls, period furniture, thick carpeting, brass chandeliers and traditional
furnishings; most offer marble baths with whirlpool tubs and hydromassage showers.
Fine 26-seat seafood-oriented Polish restaurant with a notable wine list; in summer,
meals are served on a delightful terrace beside the river. Finnish and Turkish sauna
available; in-room massage treatments can be arranged. DELUXE ROOM, FROM $200; DOUBLE DELUXE
ROOM, FROM $240. SZAFARNIA ST. 2, 80-755 GDANSK. TEL. 58-300-9560. PODEWILS.PL
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
Kania Lodge A92 Delightful and hospitable 15-room contemporary country house
hotel set in beautifully landscaped gardens, 20 miles west of Gdańsk on the tranquil
shores of Jezioro Biale (White Lake) in the rural Kaszuby region. Comfortable and pleas-
ingly decorated accommodations feature oak floors and modern paintings; some have
cast-iron woodburning stoves and private terraces overlooking the lake and gardens.
Renowned restaurant offers a menu that uses local and seasonal ingredients and has a
superb wine list. The property has its own vineyard and tasting room, and distills its own
vodka. Other amenities include a tennis court, a private jetty and beach, a spa room with
sauna and Jacuzzi. There are boats avaiable, plus bicycles for cycling in surrounding
woods; golf and horseback riding nearby. DOUBLE ROOM, FROM $180; SUITE, FROM $215. SYTNA GÓRA 10,
83-300 KARTUZY. TEL. 58-681-0677. KANIALODGE.COM.PL
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 POLAND 49St. Mary’s Street (Old Town), Gdansk© NIGHTMAN1965/ISTOCK
RUSSIA MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM50
RUSSIABRIEFING The largest country in the world, Russia is about 5,600 miles from west to
east (at the two most widely separated points) and encompasses no fewer than 11 time
zones. Its landscape comprises expanses of tundra, taiga (coniferous forest), deserts
and steppes. Over the past decade, Siberia and the Arctic Circle have opened up to
ecotourism and hunting expeditions, while the dramatic Kamchatka Peninsula offers
exceptional fly-fishing.
WHEN TO VISIT Subfreezing temperatures are normal in Moscow from mid-October
until mid-April; summers can be surprisingly warm and sunny.
MOSCOW
Temp (F) JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Average high 16 21 32 50 66 70 73 72 61 48 36 23
Average low 3 7 18 34 46 52 55 54 45 37 27 14
PM humidity 77 66 64 54 43 47 54 55 59 67 79 83
Days w/rain 18 15 15 13 13 12 15 14 13 15 15 23
Precip (in) 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 2.0 2.0
ST. PETERSBURG
Temp (F) JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Average high 19 23 32 46 59 68 70 68 59 48 36 27
Average low 9 10 18 32 43 52 55 54 48 39 28 18
PM humidity 84 73 70 65 57 53 61 61 68 78 85 86
Days w/rain 21 17 14 12 13 12 13 14 17 18 18 22
Precip (in) 1.5 1.0 1.0 1.5 2.0 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 3.0 2.0 1.5
TIME Moscow is seven hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY Ruble (RUB). Fluctuating rate valued at RUB65.1 = US$1.00 as of September 2016.
U.S. EMBASSY Moscow, Tel. 495-728-5000. Consulates: St. Petersburg, Tel. 812-331-2600; Yekaterinburg, Tel. 343-379-3001; Vladivostok, Tel. 423-230-0070.
DIRECT DIAL CODES To phone hotels in Russia, dial 011 (international access) + 7 (Russia code) + city code and local numbers.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Passport (valid for six months beyond end of stay) and visa. Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.
GENERAL INFORMATION Visit russia-travel.com before your trip.
“ I once flew from Moscow to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky on
the Kamchatka Peninsula. After a nine-hour flight, we banked over
the Pacific, I caught a glimpse of snowcapped volcanoes, and we
landed — still in the same country.
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 RUSSIA 51
NORTH ATLANTICOCEAN
ARCTIC OCEAN
NORTH
PACIFIC
OCEAN
Norwegian
Sea
Barents
Sea
Baltic Sea
Black Sea
PersianGulf
KaraSea
LaptevSea
East SiberianSea
ChukchiSea
BeringSea
Seaof
Okhotsk
Seaof
Japan
North
Sea
Volga R.
Occupied bySoviet Union in 1945
Administered by Russia,claimed by Japan
NORWAY
SWEDEN
FINLAND
U.K.
NETH.
GERMANY
POLAND
CZ.REP.
SLOV.
HUNG.
ROMANIA
TURKEY
ARM.
GEO.
AZERBAIJANSYRIA
IRAQ
IRANKUWAIT
SAUDIARABIA
KAZAKHSTAN
R U S S I A
UZBEDISTAN
TURKMENISTAN
AFGHANISTAN
TAJ.
PAK.
KYRGYZSTAN
CHINA
U.S.
U.S.
CHINA
JAPAN
N. KOREAMONGOLIA
UKRAINE
BELARUS
LITH.LAT.
EST.
DEN.
RUSSIAMOL.
RussiaRoad
Rivers
International Boundary
National Capital
Major Cities
0
0
250 500 KM
250 500 MI
ST. PETERSBURG
Caspian Sea
2
1
MOSCOW
YAROSLAVL
1 Ararat Park Hyatt Four Seasons
2 Four Seasons Lion Palace Belmond Grand Hotel Europe Hotel Astoria
HOTEL LOCATORAND TOURING MAP
RUSSIA MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM52
MOSCOW
BRIEFING Many people expect Moscow to be drab and gray, but in fact, the massive
red walls of the Kremlin and the gilded domes of the churches make it surprisingly
colorful and exotic. Situated on the banks of the Moskva River, Moscow is among the
largest cities in the world, and it is frequently cited as having the greatest number of
billionaires. Moscow has had an extraordinarily violent history, and in 1571, it was
sacked by Crimean Tatars and burned to the ground. In 1812, at the time of Napoleon’s
invasion, a fire destroyed three-quarters of the city, and during the Battle of Moscow in
1941, a million Nazi soldiers supported by 14,000 artillery pieces were driven off by the
defenders. Moscow is home to The State Tretyakov Gallery’s treasure trove of Russian
art and the famed Bolshoi Ballet.
FROM MY NOTEBOOK
■ No visitor to Moscow misses the Kremlin, but few can access the Palace of Facets, the
main banquet reception hall of the Muscovite czars that was restored at a cost of some
$300 million. A private visit can be arranged through my preferred ground operator
in Russia, Exeter International. EXETERINTERNATIONAL.COM
■ Favorite Moscow dining experiences include Turandot (TVERSKOY BOULEVARD 26 BUILDING 3,
TEL. 495-739-0011), with its only-in-Russia over-the-top opulence; Varvary (STRASTNOY BOULEVARD 8A,
TEL. 495-229-2800), which presents molecular gastronomy-style Russian classics; and C.D.L.
(POVARSKAYA STREET 50/53, TEL. 495-663-3003), serving upscale traditional cuisine in a restored
19th-century mansion. Note that dress tends to be more formal and prices higher than
you might expect.
■ One fascinating sight many travelers overlook is Stalin’s bunker in Izmailovo in the
eastern suburbs of Moscow, which is preserved exactly as it was during World War II.
The Kremlin and Peter the Great Statue on the Moskva River / © VASILYSMIRNOV/ISTOCK / THINKSTOCK
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 RUSSIA 53
Ararat Park Hyatt A94 Sleek 208-room (29 suites) contemporary hotel, well-
located adjacent to the Bolshoi Theatre and only a short walk from Red Square and the
stylish shops of Tverskaya Street. Spacious accommodations feature fine linens and
feather duvets; generous work areas; and marble baths with oak panels, heated floors,
soaking tubs and walk-in rainfall showers. Three dining venues are highlighted by Cafe
Ararat, an excellent Armenian restaurant; also featured is Enoki, a minimalist Japanese
sushi bar, and two bar/lounges. A sophisticated health club and spa includes an indoor
heated swimming pool, dry sauna, Roman bath, health bar and fitness area (personal
trainers available). A variety of cooking classes are offered. PARK DELUXE ROOM, FROM $620; PARK
SUITE, FROM $920. 4 NEGLINNAYA STREET, 125009 MOSCOW. TEL. 495-783-1234. MOSCOW.PARK.HYATT.COM
Four Seasons A94 Modern 180-room hotel — a replica of the historic 1930s-era
Hotel Moskva — in a landmark location near Red Square, the Kremlin and the State Duma.
Higher-story corner Grand Premier Rooms, in neutral tones accented with bold colors
and patterned carpets, provide views of Moscow’s historic landmarks. Marble-paneled
baths include changing areas, deep soaking tubs and separate showers. Some suites
include no-smoke fireplaces, dining tables and infrared saunas. Gourmet Italian restau-
rant, elegant lobby lounge, lively bistro and fashionable bar. Chic 32,000-square-foot spa
with 14 treatment rooms, salon services, a fitness center and a mosaic-tiled heated lap
pool with adjacent café in a glass-roofed courtyard on the fifth floor. GRAND PREMIER ROOM,
FROM $730; EXECUTIVE SUITE, FROM $1,250. 2 OKHOTNY RYAD, 109012 MOSCOW. TEL. 499-277-7100. FOURSEASONS.COM
“ The Bolshoi Ballet has an intense rivalry with the Mariinsky
company in St. Petersburg. Each has a distinct style: the Bolshoi’s
approach is bold and colorful, whereas the Mariinsky is associated
with refined classicism.
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
Four Seasons / © PETER VITALE
RUSSIA MORE INFORMATION AND ONLINE BOOKING — ANDREWHARPER.COM54
ST. PETERSBURG
BRIEFING Built along the banks of the Neva River, Russia’s second city is spectacu-
larly beautiful, with immense neoclassical palaces painted in pastel colors and a skyline
punctuated by the glinting golden domes of Orthodox churches. Constructed on more
than 100 islands in the Neva estuary, it has a remarkable network of canals spanned by
342 major bridges. The city also contains one of the world’s greatest museums, the State
Hermitage Museum (or just “the Hermitage”), which houses more than 3 million works
of art along with the Russian imperial regalia. Following the Bolshevik Revolution, St.
Petersburg was regarded as a place tainted by Westernization, and in Soviet eyes it was
only rehabilitated by the epic 900-day siege in World War II, during which 1.2 million
citizens perished (40 percent of the prewar population).
FROM MY NOTEBOOK
■ Catherine Palace (7 SADOVAYA STREET), with its opulent Amber Room, and the extravagant
Peterhof (2 RAZVODNAYA STREET), built for Peter the Great, have been sumptuously restored
after severe damage during World War II. But the region’s most atmospheric palace is
the Oranienbaum (DVORTSOVY PROSPECT 50) outside of the city, which survived the war nearly
intact.
■ The Fabergé Museum, housed in the neoclassical Shuvalov Palace, displays impe-
rial Easter eggs formerly owned by the Forbes family. 21 FONTANKA RIVER EMBANKMENT.
■ The Volga Dream takes passengers on river cruises between Moscow and St. Peters-
burg, including stops at fascinating and lesser-known places in-between. VOLGADREAM.COM
■ One of the city’s most luxurious restaurants is Palkin, which serves lavish renditions
of Russian classics. NEVSKY PROSPEKT 47.
Belmond Grand Hotel Europe / © ROBERTO BONARDI
FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING — TEL. (800) 375-4685 RUSSIA 55
Four Seasons Lion Palace A94 Ornate, beautifully restored 1817 palace with
157 guest rooms and 26 suites in the historic Admiralteysky District. Two Renaissance
marble lions flank the entryway; historic details include grand main stairway, vaulted
ceilings, paneled walls, elaborate moldings and gold-and-bronze accents. Light and airy
accommodations feature high ceilings, large windows and full marble baths; rooms on the
fifth floor provide private terraces with views of Saint Isaac’s Cathedral. Elegant Italian
restaurant, plus glass-enclosed The Tea Lounge, a lively Pan-Asian restaurant and cozy
Xander Bar. Four-level glass-topped spa with eight treatment rooms, a triangular indoor
vitality pool, a Russian steam room and a fitness center. DELUXE ROOM, FROM $450; DELUXE ONE-
BEDROOM SUITE, FROM $850. 1 VOZNESENSKY PROSPEKT, 190000 ST. PETERSBURG. TEL. 812-339-8000. FOURSEASONS.COM
Hotel Astoria A92 Atmospheric 169-room (86 suite) hotel built in 1912 on St. Isaac’s
Square, opposite St. Isaac’s Cathedral and a short walk from the Hermitage Museum.
Grand public areas include the stylish Rotonda Lounge for traditional afternoon tea;
popular Lichfield Bar; and the Astoria Café, a sophisticated French-inspired Russian
restaurant serving a wide choice of caviars. Stylish Junior Suites, many with views of
the cathedral, feature parquet wood floors and Russian ceramics and artworks; Italian
marble baths provide heated floors and separate walk-in showers. Two sophisticated
spas: La Maison de Beauté Carita, with a full-service treatment menu; and Astoria Spa,
with gym, sauna and hammam. SUPERIOR DELUXE ROOM, FROM $600; JUNIOR SUITE, FROM $830. 39 BOLSHAYA
MORSKAYA, 190000 ST. PETERSBURG. TEL. 812-494-5757. ROCCOFORTEHOTELS.COM P AH BENEFITS
Belmond Grand Hotel Europe A93 Restored 266-room landmark hotel
on Nevsky Prospekt in the heart of the city, adjacent to Arts Square. Accommodations
feature traditional furniture, Russian artwork and marble baths; atmospheric Historic
Rooms offer period details, high ceilings, butler service and fine views of Arts Square
and the Philharmonic Hall. Baroque façade opens to beautiful public areas where the
magnificent restaurant L’Europe — complete with a turn-of-the-century stained-glass
roof — serves French-inspired cuisine in an art nouveau setting; also features AZIA for
Asian fusion dishes. Caviar Bar & Restaurant offers the services of a vodka sommelier.
Well-equipped gym with plunge pool and sauna, plus beauty salon with massage rooms.
Also a shopping arcade with designer boutiques. HISTORIC ROOM, FROM $520; BELLE CHAMBRE JUNIOR
SUITE, FROM $750. NEVSKY PROSPEKT, MIKHAILOVSKAYA ULITSA 1/7, 191186 ST. PETERSBURG. TEL. 812-329-6000. BELMOND.COM
RECOMMENDED HOTELS
“ During the White Nights Festival one June, I joined some of the
city’s inhabitants on the banks of the Neva River to drink Russian
Champagne. Afterwards, we took a 1 a.m. stroll in the Summer Garden.
NETHERLANDS
AMSTERDAMConservatorium ....................................................... 7
InterContinental Amstel ........................................... 7
Canal House ............................................................. 8
Hotel Seven One Seven ............................................ 8
De L’Europe .............................................................. 8
THE HAGUEHotel Des Indes ........................................................ 9
VREELANDDe Nederlanden ..................................................... 10
ZEELANDInter Scaldes ........................................................... 11
MAASTRICHT AREA
Kasteel Wittem ........................................................ 11
BELGIUM
ANTWERPDe Witte Lelie ......................................................... 13
BRUGESHotel De Tuilerieën ................................................. 15
The Pand Hotel ....................................................... 15
Guesthouse Bonifacius ........................................... 15
BRUSSELSHotel Amigo ........................................................... 18
Stanhope Hotel ...................................................... 18
ARDENNESMoulin Hideux ........................................................ 19
DENMARK
COPENHAGENHôtel d’Angleterre .................................................. 25
ISLAND OF FUNEN
Falsled Kro ............................................................. 26
SWEDEN
STOCKHOLMEtt Hem .................................................................30
Lydmar Hotel..........................................................30
Grand Hôtel............................................................30
NORWAY
OSLOHotel Continental ................................................... 33
The Thief * ............................................................ 33
THE FJORDSSolstrand * ........................................................... 34
Hotel Union Øye * .................................................. 35
Storfjord Hotel * .................................................... 35
Hotel Brosundet * .................................................. 35
FINLAND
HELSINKI
Hotel Kämp ............................................................ 37
ESTONIA
TALLINNThe Three Sisters ...................................................40
MUHU ISLAND
Pädaste Manor ....................................................... 41
LATVIA
RIGA
Hotel Bergs ............................................................ 42
LITHUANIA
VILNIUSStikliai Hotel .......................................................... 43
POLAND
WARSAWHotel Bristol ........................................................... 46
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina ...................................... 46
KRAKOWHotel Copernicus ................................................... 47
GDANSKKania Lodge ........................................................... 48
Hotel Podewils ....................................................... 48
RUSSIA
MOSCOWArarat Park Hyatt ................................................... 53
Four Seasons ......................................................... 53
ST. PETERSBURGFour Seasons Lion Palace ....................................... 55
Belmond Grand Hotel Europe .................................. 55
Hotel Astoria .......................................................... 55
Let the Andrew Harper Travel Office help to smooth your passage. Many subscribers establish enduring relationships with individual travel advisors, who, henceforth, handle everything for them — consulting regional specialists when necessary. I brief advisors personally when I return from trips. As a result, their understanding of the expected luxury hotel standards is unequaled. Call (800) 375-4685.
RECOMMENDED HOTEL INDEX
* New to the Collection
Address inquiries to Andrew Harper Subscription Office, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768.
While Andrew Harper has made every effort to include the most up-to-date and definitive
information in compiling this guide, we cannot assume responsibility for any errors,
inaccuracies or omissions. Prices indicated are based on published rates at time of printing
and are subject to change. Call the Travel Office at (800) 375-4685 for best available rates.
Copyright 2014 Andrew Harper, LLC. All rights reserved.
Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited
without written permission from the publisher.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrew Harper ART DIRECTOR Kristina Mitchell
1 ITALY — updated February
2 SPAIN, PORTUGAL & MEDITERRANEAN — updated February
3 GREAT BRITAIN & IRELAND — updated April
4 AFRICA & MIDDLE EAST — updated April
5 MEXICO & CARIBBEAN — updated June
6 CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICA — updated June
7 UNITED STATES & CANADA — updated August
8 AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND & SOUTH PACIFIC — updated August
9 FRANCE & MONACO — updated October
10 NORTHERN EUROPE & RUSSIA — updated October
11 CENTRAL & EASTERN EUROPE — updated December
12 ASIA — updated December
Address inquiries to Andrew Harper Subscription Office, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768.
While Andrew Harper has made every effort to include the most up-to-date and definitive information
in compiling this guide, we cannot assume responsibility for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions.
Prices indicated are based on published rates at time of printing and are subject to change.
Call the Travel Office at (800) 375-4685 for best available rates.
Copyright 2016 Andrew Harper, LLC. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any
means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Photography is copyrighted material
and may not be reproduced without the permission of the photographer/provider.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrew Harper ART DIRECTOR Kristina Mitchell
RESEARCH EDITOR Adrienne Jany PHOTO EDITOR Kelly Zhu
1 ITALY — updated February
2 SPAIN, PORTUGAL & MEDITERRANEAN — updated February
3 GREAT BRITAIN & IRELAND — updated April
4 AFRICA & MIDDLE EAST — updated April
5 MEXICO & CARIBBEAN — updated June
6 CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICA — updated June
7 UNITED STATES & CANADA — updated August
8 AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND & SOUTH PACIFIC — updated August
9 FRANCE & MONACO — updated October
10 NORTHERN EUROPE & RUSSIA — updated October
11 CENTRAL & EASTERN EUROPE — updated December
12 ASIA — updated December