AUTHOR(S)

Tristan Semple

August 2014

EDITED

Freja MacDougall

October 2016

North Face Survey Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

LP.A4

Nevis Landscape Partnership are a Heritage Lottery Funded environmental collective delivering a

programme of nineteen projects between 2014 - 2019. The Nevis Partnership are the host

organisation for this programme. The Heritage Lottery Fund contribute funding to all nineteen

projects.

Project Funder(s)

LP.A1 Ben Nevis Mountain Path Scottish Natural Heritage

Highlands and Islands Enterprise

sportscotland

LP.A2 Pinewood Restoration Forestry Commission Scotland

LP.A3 Future Forests Scottish Natural Heritage

LP.A4 North Face Survey Scottish Natural Heritage

LP.A5 Dun Deardail Excavation Forestry Commission Scotland

LP.A6 Summit Conservation John Muir Trust

Ordnance Survey

LP.A7 Erosion & Minimal Impact Scottish Natural Heritage

LP.B1 Community Engagement Scottish Natural Heritage

Friends of Nevis

LP.B2 Dun Deardail; Vitrification & Outreach Forestry Commission Scotland

LP.C1 Polldubh Paths Friends of Nevis

Highlands and Islands Enterprise

Scottish Mountaineering Trust

LP.C2 Riverside All-Ability Path & Bridge Highland Council

Highlands and Islands Enterprise

sportscotland

Scottish Rural Development Programme

LP.C3 North Face Path Highlands and Islands Enterprise

SSE Sustainable Development Fund

LP.C4 Nevis Geology Map & Guide Lochaber Geopark

British Geological Survey

LP.C5 Outlandia London Fieldworks

LP.C6 Interpretation, Installation, Information Scottish Natural Heritage

Highland Council

LP.C7 Celebrating the Wild Scottish Natural Heritage

Highland Mountain Culture Association

LP.C8 Ben Nevis Film+ Heritage Lottery Fund

LP.C9 Nevis Landscape Partnership Website Scottish Natural Heritage

Highland Council

LP.D1 Nevis Training Programme Scottish Natural Heritage

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

CONTENTS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

SUMMARY

BEN NEVIS SITE OF SPECIAL SCIENTIFIC INTEREST (SSSI) CITATION

PROJECT BACKGROUND

PROJECT DESCRIPTION

TRAINING WEEK

SURVEY WEEK

OUTPUTS & OUTCOMES

HERITAGE CONSERVATION

BENEFICIARIES

ACCESS & SAFETY

PROJECT TEAM

APPENDICES

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The survey of the north face of Ben Nevis is the most comprehensive and logistically

challenging survey of a Scottish Mountain. This innovative project would not have been

possible without the support, professional expertise and vision of the following organisations

and individuals.

Funding for the project was kindly provided by the Heritage Lottery Fund (HLF) and Scottish

Natural Heritage (SNH).

The technical and logistical challenges of the survey would not have been met without the

generous support of equipment manufacturer Mammut and the collaboration of Midland

Valley Exploration.

Central to the survey are Ben Nevis’ two landowners, Rio Tinto Alcan and the John Muir

Trust, both of whom must be acknowledged for their ongoing support of this project and

the Nevis Landscape Partnership. Recognition is deserving of Fran Lockhart, Sarah Lewis

and Alison Austin of the John Muir Trust, and Jim Beattie of Rio Tinto Alcan.

The success of the project has arisen from the input of leading botanical and geological

experts, including Ian Strachan, Gordon Rothero, Roddy Muir and Jenny Ellis. Equally

important have been the energy, flexibility and knowledge of the survey team: Mike Pescod,

Donald King, Alan Halewood, Scott Kirkhope, David Buckett, Dave Anderson, Will Rowland,

Connor Holdsworth, Andy Hague and Edward Holt.

The project would not have been possible without the strategic, ecological and site specific

knowledge and support of SNH, and the many hours of planning provided by Cathy Mayne.

Jane Morrison and Teresa de Billot were also pivotal in the eighteen-month period

developing the project.

A major objective of the project has been to raise public awareness of our fascinating and

fragile mountain environments. Special thanks are extended to film maker Dave MacLeod

of Rare Breed Productions along with BBC teams including Chris Sleight (Out of Doors) and

Dougie Vipond (Landward) for their professional ingenuity and resolve in the face of

Hurricane Bertha.

Further recognition and thanks are extended to: the Scottish Mountaineering Club for

provision of the CIC hut as a base camp for the survey; Noel Williams of the Lochaber

Geopark Association for his time and knowledge; Jim McIntosh of the Botanical Society of

Britain and Ireland; the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh; Mountaineering Council of

Scotland, Association of Mountaineering Instructors; and the British Mountain Guides.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

SUMMARY

During August 2014, the Nevis Landscape Partnership, in collaboration with Midland Valley

Exploration and equipment manufacturer Mammut, undertook one of the most logistically

challenging and multidisciplinary surveys of a mountain in the British Isles.

The mountain, which first attracted botanists and geologists over 200 years ago, has finally

revealed some of its remaining secrets. The project team, including geologists, botanists

and ten professional mountaineers, have made significant discoveries, recording new

geological features and arctic-alpine plant species.

Until now, much of the 600 metre cliffs, gullies and buttresses have remained inaccessible

to the scientific community. Aided by nearly 3,000 meters of rope and low-impact

mountaineering techniques the team have managed to safely record new data from

previously unexplored areas on the north face of Ben Nevis. The project which is funded by

Heritage Lottery Fund and Scottish Natural Heritage will continue with further surveys in

2015 and again in 2016.

(1) Cathy Mayne (SNH) & Rolf Schmid, CEO of Mammut, surveying Ben Nevis.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

BEN NEVIS SITE OF SPECIAL SCIENTIFIC INTEREST (SSSI)

CITATION

The Ben Nevis Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) is an extensive upland site centred on

a massif which stretches for over twelve kilometres from Ben Nevis, the highest ground in

the UK, eastwards to Stob Coire na Ceannain, and has an altitudinal range from 30m OD

(above sea level) in Glen Nevis to 1344m OD on the summit of Ben Nevis. It encompasses

rocks and geological features of significance, The Ben Nevis Complex, relating to the

Caledonian mountain building period. The range in altitude and geology gives rise to a

diversity of habitats including native pine and oak woodlands, montane cliffs, semi-

permanent snow beds and upland heaths and grasslands. A wide variety of plants, both

vascular and non-vascular are present. The flora and altitudinal range has also affected the

fauna of the site, influencing, for example, the range of bird and invertebrate species

present. Ben Nevis and the associated peaks of Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag form a

massif that has the highest land in the UK and contains the only three peaks greater than

1200m out with the Cairngorms. The SSSI supports an assemblage of upland habitats which

includes the only semi-permanent snow beds outside the Cairngorms, and the most

extensive scree snow-beds in the UK.

(2) SSSI/SAC Site Map

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PROJECT BACKGROUND

(3) Botanists and geologists working with professional mountaineers.

Ben Nevis provides unique habitats for rare arctic-alpine flora. The importance of this flora

is reflected in the Ben Nevis SSSI feature for vascular plants. Some of the key locations that

are already known about are at risk from recreational activity but are also potentially

threatened by changing climate.

While the feature is currently in favourable condition, failure to locate some of the original

populations and the fragility of the very few known locations presents a management

challenge. Impacts to these isolated populations would lead to the feature falling into

unfavourable condition, which would be contrary to the Scottish Government’s targets for

designated sites.

Within landscape management decision making it is often necessary to focus on the micro

pressures which can arise between the demands of conservation and recreation, especially

in sensitive and/or isolated ‘hot-spots’. This project undertook to find sustainable solutions

to these issues through multi-disciplinary approaches and relationship building combined

with new approaches to inspire and educate the wider public.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PROJECT DESCRIPTION

Significant areas of the north face of Ben Nevis, which extends to roughly

125 hectares of rock and steep scree have now been accessed for the

first time by scientists. Due to the sensitivity of the site; its ecological and

geological significance; and designations (NSA, SSSI, SAC): no fixed

anchors were placed in the rock.

Rather than employing heavy duty industrial access techniques (such as

placing bolts in the rock) the survey team utilised specially designed

climbing equipment which can be placed without damaging the rock. All

safety equipment was removed after the survey with no physical or visual

impact to the site. Many of the sites being accessed were either damp,

‘flush’ areas or along geological contacts. These locations often coincide

with large fractures in the rock and as such are full of loose, wet rock.

Climbers usually avoid such places.

The team therefore used many of their more usual ‘guiding techniques’

but also had to develop some new approaches, especially regarding 200

metre abseils. The training week allowed the team of professionally

qualified Mountaineering Instructors to work alongside an IFMGA

Mountain Guide and the Lochaber Mountain Rescue trainer to develop a

wide range of systems incorporating mountain rescue as well as big-wall

and alpine climbing techniques.

The team of mountaineers also brought an extensive and detailed

knowledge of the mountain to the scientific survey. Thousands of days

guiding clients on the north face of Ben Nevis gave the geologists and

botanists insight into the mountain’s topography as well taking them

safely to previously unrecorded areas.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

TRAINING WEEK

Besides being incredibly constructive and informative the training week also uncovered

the first ever Alpine Saxifrage on Ben Nevis as well as a range of other important finds.

The training week followed a flexible structure with the syllabus reviewed and updated at

the end of each day. Presentations, practical sessions and workshops facilitated

knowledge exchange and the development of appropriate survey techniques. This week

was integral to the success of the survey and to the multi-disciplinary and collaborative

nature of the project. The training was very much a two-way process with everyone

involved in pooling their collective knowledge and professional experience. Core areas

covered included:

• SURVEY TECHNIQUES AND DATA COLLECTION

• GPS, CHECKS AND CALIBRATION WITH MAPS AND ALTIMETER

• GEOLOGICAL PROCESSES, ROCK TYPES, FEATURES AND STRUCTURES

• MONTANE HABITATS AND INDICATOR SPECIES

• IDENTIFICATION OF ARCTIC-ALPINE SPECIES

• SAFETY EQUIPMENT AND ACCESS LOGISTICS

• RADIOS AND COMMUNICATIONS

• ROPE SYSTEMS AND RIGGING

• FIELDMOVE CLINO APP FAMILIARISATION

(4) North Face Survey team training at Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team’s base.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

TRAINING WEEK (CONT’D)

It is anticipated that the training week will be endorsed by the Association of Mountaineering

Instructors as accredited CPD. It is hoped that Ben Nevis can be established as a nationally

recognised training venue for those involved in conservation work, ecology and botany as

well as professional mountain guides and instructors. Those involved during the three years

could deliver similar training as CPD in the future.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT;

(5) Collecting geological data.

(6) Roddy Muir, geologist, abseiling two-hundred metres down “The Comb”.

(7) Alan Halewood and Connor Holdsworth bagging rope.

(8) Geologist Jenny Ellis and the team measuring geological fault planes.

For a detailed breakdown of the training week see appendices and Alan Halewood’s “Climb

When You’re Ready” blog.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

SURVEY WEEK

During the survey week, many new areas of the north face were explored and recorded for

the first time finding many new colonies of nationally rare and scarce plant species:

saxifrages, grasses and mouse-ears. This is in addition to those areas* surveyed during the

training week. Once the 3D map is generated we will be able to measure the size of the

area covered, but a safe estimate is that a third of the viable sites across the 125 hectares

have now been surveyed.

Besides the huge scale of the task and the challenge of multi-disciplinary surveying in

extremely difficult terrain, the survey team had to contend with complex logistical challenges

and the need to physically carry huge amounts of rope, safety equipment and survey items

around the mountain each day. At the end of each day the team had to review any issues,

gather data, and develop plans for the following day. Every morning was equally structured

with a 7am meet at the North Face car park, and an 8:30 briefing at the CIC hut. Survey

teams were finalised, with key sites identified and access routes determined to manage safety

and communications. Each location was allocated specific team members with botanists

and geologists allocated as required. The daily logistics were recorded on a rota board at

the CIC hut for the communications manager.

Communications and radio checks were continued throughout the day with regular updates

on team locations and most importantly managing the hazard of rock fall onto either other

survey teams or the public. A summit safety officer and a base camp/communications officer

managed radio communications between teams and monitored public access to the site

with a telescope.

Before entering terrain with a hazard of rock fall the teams would communicate with the

base camp officer and other teams to ensure the public were not exposed to any risk.

Signage around the area was also used, as were numerous communications during the

preceding weeks to the survey on walkers and climber’s forums, blogs and websites.

The survey was conducted with four teams of two mountaineers either working independently

or with a geologist/botanist as a rope of three. Those teams working without expert

guidance would carry out a sweep survey of technical terrain, noting indicator species and

recording any finds on the field app. To ensure accuracy of records, digital photos of species

were taken (with GPS data recorded and checked) and then checked with the relevant expert

back at the base camp at the end of each day. If an area proved of interest, a geologist or

botanist would then be taken back to the key areas. This ensured an efficiency of resources

and a balance between macro and micro scale surveying.

*Number 5 Gully / Moonlight Gully Buttress / Ledge Route / Trident Buttresses / Number 4 Gully

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

SURVEY WEEK (CONT’D)

Day 1

One team surveyed South Castle Gully area with no significant finds; this area was reported as very

loose ground and considered too high risk for a return visit. One team went to the broken ground

right of Number 3 Gully and hunted for botanical finds across to and up North Gull to compare

this ground with Number 4 Gully. Another team surveyed across the base of Carn Dearg Buttress

around to Castle Gully Area. The fourth team surveyed Garadh Gully and around the lower sections

of Trident South, including the intervening scree slopes.

Day 2

One team surveyed the lower sections of North-East Buttress and were joined by Chris Sleight from

BBC Radio Scotland Out of Doors; interviews were broadcast on Good Morning Scotland & Out of

Doors. They covered the grassy ledges below the traverse to the first platform on the Buttress and

then headed around onto the lower flanks of the Brenva face. Other teams surveyed the upper

sections of the Brenva face around into Coire Leis. The final team carried equipment to the summit

and set up the rigging on The Comb ready for Wednesday.

Day 3

The survey was joined by Jim McIntosh of the Botanical Society of Britain and Ireland who went with

a survey team to the upper fan of Number 5 Gully where new populations of Highland Saxifrage

were recorded. The survey was also joined by the BBC Landward team who carried out interviews

and worked with the safety crew and cameraman to film presenter Dougie Vipond and team

members abseiling two-hundred metres down the Tower Face of The Comb. Another team took

lead botanist Ian Strachan down the other two-hundred metre abseil to Asperities Ledge where

significant new populations of rare species were located including the second population of Alpine

Saxifrage. The fourth team surveyed across the north face of Castle Ridge, traversing the grassy

ledge systems, and despite no significant finds it was noted that some of the gullies could be worth

closer inspection via top-down abseil.

Day 4

One team surveyed Number 3 Gully Buttress and surrounding slopes. Another team surveyed Arch

Gully and areas around top of Ledge Route. The rest of the team were engaged in the complex de-

rigging of The Comb.

Day 5

One team surveyed the area around Raeburn’s Easy Route and upper reaches of Coire na Ciste to

the foot of the Cascades which would be worth a revisit with a botanist on a dry day. Another team

returned to the Brenva face to locate a geological contact. Number 2 Gully was surveyed with finds

recorded, Lower section of Green Gully surveyed with finds recorded. The top section of Castle

Gully North was surveyed – lots of saxifrage and good indicator species – needs to be revisited with

a botanist. Central Gully up to Jubilation/Jubilee surveyed and recorded as not worth revisiting.

South Trident to Pinnacle Ridge surveyed and recorded as not worth revisiting. Teams also assisted

in de-rigging.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

SURVEY WEEK (IMAGES)

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT;

(9) Various survey members of the survey crew descending into the mist.

(10) Botanist Gordon Rothero, Cathy Mayne (SNH) & David Buckett, mountaineer.

(11) Noel Williams, Lochaber Geopark, sharing his vast knowledge.

(12) The North Face of Ben Nevis.

(13) Part way down Number 4 Gully.

(14) Mike Pescod (Expedition Leader) with botanist Ian Strachan & guide David Anderson.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

OUTPUTS & OUTCOMES

PREVIOUSLY UNRECORDED PARTS OF THE BEN NEVIS SSSI/SAC HAVE NOW BEEN RECORDED.

NEW DATA (BOTANICAL AND GEOLOGICAL) INCLUDING MANY NEW POPULATIONS AND

SPECIES HAVE BEEN RECORDED. THIS WILL INFORM FUTURE MANAGEMENT PLANS.

PROFESSIONAL MOUNTAINEERS WORKING WITH CONSERVATION EXPERTS AND NOW

TRAINED IN FIELD IDENTIFICATION OF ARCTIC ALPINE PLANTS.

FOLLOWING ON FROM THE SURVEY, THE CLIMBERS WHO HAVE TAKEN PART IN THE TRAINING

AND SURVEY WILL ACT AS LANDSCAPE CHAMPIONS, BUILDING ON THEIR NEW KNOWLEDGE

AND GIVING THEM A NOVEL AND FASCINATING SLANT TO THEIR PROFESSIONAL GUIDING

AND INSTRUCTING ACTIVITIES. THIS INCREASED KNOWLEDGE OF ECOLOGY AND GEOLOGY

WILL ASSIST IN MINIMISING RECREATIONAL IMPACTS AND INCREASING WIDER STEWARDSHIP

OF THE MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT BY CASCADING DOWN TO THE MOUNTAIN

INSTRUCTORS’ DAILY CLIENTS AS WELL AS INCREASING THEIR REPUTATION AND

PROFESSIONAL STANDING.

RAISING PUBLIC AWARENESS OF NATURAL HERITAGE, OUR MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT AND

ISSUES SUCH AS CLIMATE CHANGE. THE PROJECT HAS GAINED POPULAR ATTENTION IN

NATIONAL BROADSHEETS AS WELL AS REGIONAL AND LOCAL PRESS. BBC COVERAGE

THROUGH FILM AND RADIO PROGRAMMES HAS EXTENDED THIS COVERAGE TO A MUCH

WIDER AUDIENCE. BBC LANDWARD ALONE WILL REACH AN ESTIMATED 280,000 PEOPLE. IT IS

DIFFICULT TO ESTIMATE THE TOTAL AUDIENCE ENGAGEMENT FOR THE PROJECT BUT, GIVEN

THE CIRCULATION OF THE TIMES, THE SCOTSMAN AND VARIOUS BBC NEWS ARTICLES, IT

LIKELY TO HAVE REACHED AN AUDIENCE OF 750,000.

INTERACTIVE 3-D DIGITAL MAP OF THE NORTH FACE WITH GEOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL

DATA WILL BE UPLOADED TO THE NEVIS WEBSITE.

FOOTAGE FOR A DOCUMENTARY OF THE SURVEY HAS BEEN RECORDED THROUGHOUT THE

2 WEEK PERIOD. THE FILM WILL BE PREMIERED AT THE FORT WILLIAM MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL,

WHERE IT WILL INSPIRE AND EDUCATE AN AUDIENCE OF PEOPLE LIKELY TO VENTURE INTO

THE HILLS.

THE INTERACTIVE 3D MAP AND THE REST OF THE NEVIS HERITAGE WEBSITE. VISITORS AND

CHARITY EVENTERS WILL ALSO BE ENCOURAGED TO ACCESS THE FILM AS A FIRST STEP IN

BROADENING THEIR AWARENESS OF THE FRAGILE MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT. LOCAL

SCHOOL FIELD TRIPS WILL ALSO BE DELIVERED LATER IN THE PROJECT.

CLOSER LINKS HAVE BEEN FORGED BETWEEN THE MOUNTAINEERING COMMUNITY AND

CONSERVATION BODIES. MCOFS, AMI, BMG, RBGE, SNH, JMT, BSBI HAVE ALL BEEN DIRECTLY

INVOLVED IN THE PROJECT OR HAVE ENDORSED IT. OVER THE NEXT TWO YEARS THE PROJECT

WILL STRENGTHEN THIS NETWORK.

TRAINING ID CARDS DEVELOPED. THESE WILL BE BUILT UPON FOR NEXT YEAR’S SURVEY.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

HERITAGE CONSERVATION

The survey has provided a more accurate assessment of the presence and abundance of

the rare plants and will therefore lead to a more focused approach to management and a

greater likelihood of securing their survival. The previously identified need for an action

plan, based on the few samples and their threats, looks now to be premature, especially if

more locations are found in the next two years. This could well lead to less or no need for

management action.

The installation of ropes to facilitate access to the cliffs has been carried out with removable

anchors, such that no damage will be visible after their removal. The survey team have taken

appropriate measures (such as making the decision to not use Number 4 gully as a descent

route) to leave those areas that they access untrampled and undamaged.

No samples were taken by the survey team.

BENEFICIARIES

There is no direct benefit to any landowner (Rio Tinto Alcan or John Muir Trust) from the

survey. All the benefit accrues directly to biodiversity and the public in terms of information

and data, or indirectly through greater awareness and understanding via our landscape

champions and securing the feature in favourable condition for the benefit of the Scottish

people. SNH will benefit directly with additional data for a fuller assessment of the Ben Nevis

SSSI feature “vascular plants”. Data will be kept by SNH and will also be passed to the

HBRC and the BSBI. The new Landscape Champions will have new skills and interests to

share with their clients and fellow climbers, enhancing their professional reputation and

raising their awareness of conservation issues. This should lead to better practices regarding

conserving the environment. Observers from the Mountaineering Council of Scotland, the

British Mountain Guides Association, the Association of Mountaineering Instructors and the

Mountain Leader Training Boards will develop an awareness of ecological fragility and

conservation needs; this should enhance the environmental elements of the National

Governing Body awards in mountaineering and climbing. The public will learn about the

natural heritage of Ben Nevis via dedicated film, television programmes (BBC Landward),

radio programmes (BBC Out of Doors), social media, the website, and articles in

broadsheets and regional/local press. The film element will be able to disseminate the key

messages about the importance of this landscape for supporting rare flora, its fragility and

sensitivity to change. The academic/geological community will benefit from new data and

new structural modelling. Schools and colleges will benefit from free access to the interactive

3D digital map of the North Face and educational material on the website.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

ACCESS & SAFETY

Access and safety were managed successfully during the four training days and the five days

of the survey itself. There were two injuries requiring medical attention which were

unfortunate but also well within the normal scope of mountaineering. Given the scale of the

project, the challenging ground that was encountered and the weather presented to us by

ex-hurricane Bertha this should be accepted a reasonable result. After finishing the big abseil

on the last day of the training, Scott Kirkhope stumbled while walking back to the CIC Hut.

He put out his hand as he fell over and managed to dislocate his finger. He walked to the

vehicles and was driven to Belford Hospital where the finger was reduced and strapped to

the next finger. Scott continued to work the full five days of the survey with little or no problem

caused by his finger. The second injury was to Donald King who sprained his ankle while

walking to the vehicles on the last day of the survey carrying a large pack. He continued

walking out and did not mention the injury until down in the North Face Car Park. After a

trip to Belford Hospital and an x-ray it was decided there was no bone fracture. He used

crutches for one day and will seek physiotherapy to aid his recovery. This was a repeat of a

pre-existing injury. These two injuries serve as a good reminder that most mountaineering

accidents occur in descent after the difficult part of the activity has been completed. Despite

warnings and reminders of this well understood fact, even very experienced mountaineers

are prone to simple trips and slips on easy ground. The more challenging areas accessed

during the survey were reached with secure and robust systems. Since the techniques used

were a combination of mountaineering, mountain rescue and IRATA, the training week was

a valuable opportunity to practice and assess different approaches. General approaches

were agreed and preferred options for different types of ground were discussed. The input

from Robert Skinner was very well received.

(15) Mike Pescod, Abacus Mountain Guides & North Face Survey Safety Manager

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

ACCESS & SAFETY (CONT’D)

General approaches decided on and used during the survey included;

(i) Double ropes used for steep areas with loose rock.

(ii) Top down approach to fix ropes and access.

(iii) Dip in, dip out technique of lowering and hauling for surveying the top section

of crags and gullies was quick and effective.

(iv) Setting fixed lines with re-belays was most useful when lines were accessed by

several experts and used several times. This also gave the best security for all

involved.

(v) Alpine movement over moderate terrain was very effective and time efficient.

(vi) Communication is a key aspect.

The training days were also very useful to work with the experts. They allowed us to coach

some core skills in Alpine movement and on big abseils and fixed hand lines. In so doing

we assessed the experts' competence and confidence in these skills to guide us in choosing

the best technique for accessing different areas. We were very impressed with the experts'

abilities and fitness throughout the project. The experts continued to develop their skills

during the survey and this can be taken in to account for the next survey. If different experts

are used, we will need to start this process again.

Communication is a key aspect of the project. Having someone at or near the CIC Hut and

someone else on the plateau was extremely valuable. This should be a paid role as it was

this year, not one for volunteers. Many recreational climbers were near the survey area and

it was important to monitor this. On the plateau, there were fewer people due to the weather.

However, on the last day with the best weather a cairn on the Pony Track was used as an

anchor with a rope reaching from there to Number Two Gully. It is obvious that this must

be monitored properly. Having another person available on the plateau is very useful for

many other reasons including carrying equipment, maintaining radio communications and

leading experts and media to different locations. The morning meeting was essential to

coordinate teams, make everyone aware of each other's locations of work and to spread

the work load. It also gave an opportunity to share knowledge of best techniques, access

routes and survey results.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

ACCESS & SAFETY (CONT’D)

The training days were also very useful to work with the experts. They allowed us to coach

some core skills in Alpine movement and on big abseils and fixed hand lines. In so doing

we assessed the experts' competence and confidence in these skills to guide us in choosing

the best technique for accessing different areas. We were very impressed with the experts'

abilities and fitness throughout the project. The experts continued to develop their skills

during the survey and this can be taken in to account for the next survey. If different experts

are used, we will need to start this process again.

Communication is a key aspect of the project. Having someone at or near the CIC Hut and

someone else on the plateau was extremely valuable. This should be a paid role as it was

this year, not one for volunteers. Many recreational climbers were near the survey area and

it was important to monitor this. On the plateau, there were fewer people due to the weather.

However, on the last day with the best weather a cairn on the Pony Track was used as an

anchor with a rope reaching from there to Number Two Gully. It is obvious that this must

be monitored properly. Having another person available on the plateau is very useful for

many other reasons including carrying equipment, maintaining radio communications and

leading experts and media to different locations. The morning meeting was essential to

coordinate teams, make everyone aware of each other's locations of work and to spread

the work load. It also gave an opportunity to share knowledge of best techniques, access

routes and survey results.

There were some issues with the VHF radios. This was due to the charge indicator not

functioning well. The radios should be charged every other day as a minimum and everyone

should have a radio including experts. The charging capacity available at the CIC Hut was

limited but ensuring that radios are fully charged is a priority. There were many occasions

of rock fall. This was sometimes caused purposefully, sometimes accidentally and sometimes

naturally. In all occasions, it was well managed and nobody was caught in rock fall primarily

due to good radio communications and awareness of other teams. Dave Bucket was close

to a falling rock when he stripped the fixed line from Comb Gully. He was taking out re-

belays as he abseiled the line. The rope has the potential to move across the face and it

was this that caused the rock to fall near him. This risk was noted and assessed in advance.

Setting double ropes in a fixed line is difficult work and time consuming. For a line of 200m

plus it takes one day to fix the line, one day to work on it and one day strip the line. However,

it is the most secure method of access to steep terrain. This technique can be made more

efficient in future. If the line is set down an area where Alpine techniques can be used away

and back to the line, a greater area can be covered, so the investment in time is more

productive.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

ACCESS & SAFETY (CONT’D)

Setting double ropes in a fixed line is difficult work and time consuming. For a line of 200m

plus it takes one day to fix the line, one day to work on it and one day strip the line. However,

it is the most secure method of access to steep terrain. This technique can be made more

efficient in future. If the line is set down an area where Alpine techniques can be used away

and back to the line, a greater area can be covered, so the investment in time is more

productive. Once experts' skills and knowledge are sufficiently high, we will feel comfortable

with them descending the line as it is being fixed in place. Proficient use of jumars to ascent

ropes is required for this. Equally, if a line can be stripped by removing re-belays on abseil,

an expert can descend the line with the line being stripped after them. The elevated risk of

rock fall will probably make this a rarely used option however. Once guides' surveying skills

are sufficient, the need to have an expert abseil a line will be reduced.

Each of these improvements to using fixed lines will reduce a three-day process to a two-

day process with little loss in security. However, if there is appropriate ground and

appropriate experience and knowledge of mountaineering skills, areas might be accessed

by standard light weight mountaineering techniques. This would involve Alpine movement

and abseiling on dynamic ropes, retrieving the ropes after each abseil and surveying while

abseiling. Clearly this is a much more committing approach but one that will allow an area

to be surveyed in one day. Alpine movement is even more time efficient and given dry

conditions and good visibility this technique will offer the most effective approach. These

conditions were notably absent this year!

(16) The North Face Survey Team, August 2014

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

ACCESS & SAFETY (CONT’D)

Recommendations for next year;

(i) Include at least one training day. This should be paid and will include carrying

equipment to the CIC Hut, botany and geology refreshers as well as further

coaching for the experts.

(ii) Once guides' surveying skills are higher and experts' mountaineering skills are

higher, more mountaineering techniques can be utilised which will allow for

quicker surveying. Also, if the survey feels more like a mountaineering exercise

the links between conservationists and climbers will strengthen.

(iii) Using the same experts and guides will make this much easier.

(iv) Keep the number of surveyors the same. There is much security in having other

guides close by. Also, the work load is quite demanding but it can be managed

better by rotating guides through different jobs.

(v) Ensure that media teams have their own guides and that they are aware of what

they can achieve so as not to disrupt the survey too much. This was done well

this year.

(vi) We should continue not to be prescriptive with techniques and their detail.

Mountaineering will continue to demand a flexible approach and the most

valuable skill is that of making good judgments in advance and on the spot. The

team of guides showed they can make good judgments throughout this survey

and the feedback from the experts demonstrated this.

(vii) In summary, the guides operated with enthusiasm, energy and intuition. Their

combined experience is what led to the success of the survey along with the very

impressive knowledge of the experts. The experience of this survey, of its

operation and of working with the experts, is now stored within each of the

guides. Going in to the next survey, this specific experience is what will ensure

the next survey is even more successful than this one

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PROJECT TEAM

Tristan Semple

Nevis Landscape Partnership

Project Manager

Cathy Mayne

Scottish Natural Heritage

Project Advisor

Teresa de Billot

Nevis Landscape Partnership

Project Administrator

Mike Pescod

Abacus Mountain Guides

Survey Safety Manager

Gordon Rothero

Freelance

Botanical Expert

Ian Strachan

Freelance

Botanical Expert

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PROJECT TEAM (CONT’D)

Jenny Ellis

Midland Valley

Geo-Mapping Trainee

Roddy Muir

Midland Valley

Geo-Mapping Manager

Donald King

M.I.C. (Mountaineering Instructor)

Lead Surveyor

Alan Halewood

M.I.C. (Mountaineering Instructor)

Lead Surveyor

Scott Kirkhope

M.I.C. (Mountaineering Instructor)

Lead Surveyor

Dave MacLeod

Rare Breed Productions

Film-maker

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PROJECT TEAM (CONT’D)

David Anderson

M.I.A. (Mountain Instructor Award)

Assistant Surveyor

David Buckett

M.I.A. (Mountain Instructor Award)

Assistant Surveyor

Connor Holdsworth

Mountain Leader & Winter Mountain Leader

Assistant Surveyor

Will Rowland

Mountain Leader & Winter Mountain Leader

Assistant Surveyor

Andy Hague

M.I.A. (IN TRAINING)

Summit Safety Officer

Ed Holt

Base Camp Officer

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

APPENDICES

PRELIMINARY BOTANICAL REPORT

PRELIMINARY GEOLOGICAL REPORT

TRAINING WEEK

PLANT IDENTIFICATION CARDS

PLANNING DAY SCHEDULE & AGENDA

TRAINING SCHEDULE

SURVEY ITINERARY

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PRELIMINARY BOTANICAL REPORT

AUTHOR(S)

Ian Strachan & Gordon Rothero (IS & GR)

27th August 2014

This is a preliminary report of the botanical findings from the first phase of the Nevis

Landscape Partnership North Face Survey (4-15 August 2014). A comprehensive report with

full details of records and distribution maps will be submitted when further data analysis has

been completed by geologists of Midland Valley Exploration.

The survey went very well despite the weather and late snow-lie conditions, and certainly

exceeded our expectations. This was a result of excellent organisation and project

management, and the professional skill and enthusiasm of the climbers.

Botanical training for the climbers was carried out by IS and GR, with laminated ID cards

for the key species prepared by Cathy Mayne of SNH, who also assisted with fieldwork for

much of the period. IS took part in the survey for the whole period, GR for the first week

only, and Jim McIntosh, Scottish Officer for the Botanical Society of Britain and Ireland,

joined us for a day in the second week.

The focus of recording was on the Nationally Rare (NR) and Nationally Scarce (NS) species

already known from Ben Nevis, which form part of the Ben Nevis SSSI vascular plant

assemblage feature (Table 1). Other likely or possible NR/NS species were also searched

for. Several other notable species such as Alpine Saw-wort (Saussurea alpine) and Moss

Campion (Silene acaulis) were also recorded, as ‘indicator species for good habitat. Patches

of the distinctive moss (Pohlia wahlenbergii) were also noted, as they can provide good

habitat for Highland Saxifrage. Other NR/NS bryophytes were recorded by GR.

Most records were made on iPhones using the FieldMove app, which had been adapted by

the geologists working with the team to record both geological and botanical information.

The app included images of the key species and a list of habitats. Notes were made of

counts or population/habitat extent, also associated photographs were taken and labelled.

Climbing teams surveying without an expert botanist took photographs to confirm plant

identifications.

Visits were made to many parts of the North Face that had not, as far as we know, been

previously explored botanically. These included crags, ledges, scree slopes and gullies, from

Coire Leis to Castle Ridge.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PRELIMINARY BOTANICAL REPORT (CONT’D)

The findings for Nationally Rare and Nationally Scarce vascular plant species are

summarised in Table 1. Many new locations were recorded, also counts were made for

several known populations which had not been adequately or recently counted because of

access difficulties.

Highlights;

New locations in total for three Nationally Rare (NR) and eight Nationally Scarce

(NS) species.

Two new populations of Wavy Meadow-grass (NR), previously known from only one

location in the SSSI.

Two new locations for Tufted Saxifrage (NR), previously known at only two locations

in the SSSI.

Two new locations for Alpine Saxifrage, previously unknown from the North Face.

Large new populations for several species including Highland Saxifrage (NR), Alpine

Meadow-grass, Alpine Speedwell and Russet Sedge.

Although excellent progress has been made, there remain plenty of locations for survey in

2015-16. For example, Observatory Gully and associated gullies and faces to the east of

Tower Ridge, where there was much late snow in 2014, also Tower Ridge itself. Using the

3-D model developed by the geologists we will review coverage in 2014 and make detailed

plans for subsequent years. Could we find a second location for Drooping Saxifrage or for

Hare’s-foot Sedge, or even find another new species for the Ben? We will also need to

review the data and consider what improvements are needed for next year in terms of

recording protocols. One area for consideration is the use of photography, since it is

apparent that the quality of close-up images obtained with the iPhones, particularly in poor

weather, was not always adequate for identification purposes. It would also be useful to

record GPS tracks for each group on each day to gain a better idea of coverage.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PRELIMINARY BOTANICAL REPORT (CONT’D)

Table 1.

Nationally Rare (bold) and Nationally Scarce vascular plant species recorded from Ben Nevis North Face, August 2014. * species not recorded previously

from North Face.

SPECIES NAME COMMON NAME AUGUST 2014 FINDINGS

ATHYRIUM

DISTENTIFOLIUM

ALPINE

LADY-FERN

FOUND AT SEVERAL NEW LOCATIONS.

CAREX LACHENALII HARE’S-FOOT SEDGE

KNOWN SITE AT BASE OF TRIDENT BUTTRESS COUNTED AND WIDER AREA EXPLORED.

CAREX SAXATILIS RUSSET SEDGE

SEVERAL NEW AND LARGE POPULATIONS FOUND E.G. NORTH-EAST BUTTRESS, OBSERVATORY GULLY,

CARN DEARG BUTTRESS.

CERASTIUM NIGRESCENS ARCTIC

MOUSE-EAR

SMALL STANDS FOUND AT SEVERAL NEW LOCATIONS E.G. NO 5 GULLY, LITTLE BRENVA FACE,

HESPERIDES LEDGE/COMB BUTTRESS.

CERASTIUM CERASTOIDES STARWORT MOUSE-EAR

FOUND AT SEVERAL NEW LOCATIONS E.G NO 5 GULLY, COMB GULLY BUTTRESS.

POA ALPINA ALPINE

MEADOW-GRASS

FOUND AT SEVERAL NEW LOCATIONS INCLUDING EXCEPTIONAL POPULATION (000’S) IN UPPER PART

OF NO 5 GULLY – POSSIBLY LARGEST POPULATION IN UK?

SPECIES NAME COMMON NAME AUGUST 2014 FINDINGS

POA FLEXUOSA WAVY

MEADOW-GRASS

2 SIGNIFICANT NEW POPULATIONS FOUND, ONE CA 100M BELOW EXISTING STAND IN

OBSERVATORY GULLY, ANOTHER CA 1 KM AWAY AT TOP OF GULLY ON TRIDENT BUTTRESS (NEW UK

ALTITUDINAL RECORD).

SAXIFRAGA CERNUA

DROOPING SAXIFRAGE

COUNT MADE OF KNOWN POPULATION AT TOP OF NO 4 GULLY (NOT COUNTED SINCE 2002)

SAXIFRAGA CESPITOSA TUFTED SAXIFRAGE

COUNT MADE OF KNOWN POPULATION AT TOP OF NO 4 GULLY (NOT COUNTED SINCE 2002),

ALSO 2 NEW LOCATIONS FOUND, INCLUDING 11 PLANTS ON LEDGES IN COMB GULLY/ BUTTRESS,

AND A SINGLE PLANT IN NO 2 GULLY.

SAXIFRAGA NIVALIS* ALPINE SAXIFRAGE

2 NEW POPULATIONS FOUND (FIRST RECORDS FROM BEN NEVIS), INCLUDING 11 PLANTS ON LEDGES

IN COMB GULLY/BUTTRESS, AND 2 PLANTS ON LEDGE IN NO 4 GULLY.

SAXIFRAGA RIVULARIS HIGHLAND SAXIFRAGE

PRESENCE CONFIRMED AND COUNTS MADE IN NOS 2, 3 AND 4 GULLIES, LARGE NEW POPULATION

IN NO 5 GULLY, ALSO AT SEVERAL OTHER NEW SITES.

SIBBALDIA PROCUMBENS SIBBALDIA

FOUND AT MANY NEW LOCATIONS ACROSS THE NORTH FACE, E.G. COMB GULLY BUTTRESS, LITTLE

BRENVA FACE, CENTRAL GULLY.

VERONICA ALPINA ALPINE SPEEDWELL

FOUND AT SEVERAL NEW LOCATIONS INCLUDING EXCEPTIONAL POPULATION OF SEVERAL HUNDRED

SHOOTS ON HESPERIDES LEDGE (COMB BUTTRESS), ALSO NO 5 GULLY, LEDGE ROUTE, SOUTH

CASTLE GULLY.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PRELIMINARY GEOLOGICAL REPORT

AUTHOR(S)

Dr. Roddy Muir Managing Director Midland Valley

Jenny Ellis Senior Geologist Midland Valley

GEOLOGY SUMMARY (2014)

For the past year, Midland Valley have been using the North Face of Ben Nevis and various sites around

Glencoe as a testing ground for our digital mapping app for geologists, FieldMove Clino:

[www.mve.com/software/fieldmoveclino]

The North Face of the Ben contains a variety of easily identifiable rock types and structures on well-exposed

steep ground. The FieldMove Clino app uses the internal sensors in your smartphone (a magnetometer,

gyroscope and accelerometer) to determine the orientation of planar and linear features in the rocks.

Measurements taken on the phone are displayed on a basemap and the location is determined using the

internal GPS in the device. It is important for us to test the accuracy of the measured data and the GPS

location when we have with limited or no network connectivity. The North Face of Ben Nevis is therefore

an ideal testing site.

During the testing phase of the app, it quickly became apparent that the distribution of rock types originally

mapped by the geological survey was incorrect. Ben Nevis and Glencoe are widely quoted in the published

literature as classic examples of cauldron subsidence where a central volcanic complex has collapsed on

a circular ring fault into the underlying magma chamber. We have observed that many of the distinctive

features associated with cauldron subsidence are not present in the Ben Nevis area, and different models

for the generation of the volcanic and plutonic rocks should therefore be considered.

We have already begun the task of mapping out the distribution of the various rock types in the Allt a

Mhuillin and on the North Face. However, the only way that we can access the steep cliffs is with assistance

from the climbing community. Our primary objectives during the geological survey are to:

• Use the FieldMove Clino app to map out the distribution of the different rock types on the North

Face.

• To collect data on the spatial orientation of geological contacts, faults and joints/fractures for

characterising fracture networks in igneous rock suites.

• To better understand how the Ben Nevis area has evolved through geological time.

• To construct a 3d model of the Ben Nevis area in our Move software that can be shared with the

wider community for teaching, research and public awareness.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PRELIMINARY GEOLOGICAL REPORT (CONT’D)

Week One (Training)

Monday 4th

August

Overview of Midland Valley’s technology, Move and FieldMove Clino for model building and data

collection.

Tuesday 5th August

Introduction for the climbers and botanists to the FieldMove Clino app and demonstration of how the

technology could be used to capture important information on the alpine plant species and the geological

features on the North Face.

Thursday 7th of August

Geological data was collected during the ascent of Ledge route, at various locations near the top of No.4

Gully and then during the descent (on foot) of No.4 Gully. Good joint measurements were recorded and

contacts between rhoylite and breccia units were traversed on the ascent of Ledge route. Additionally,

observation was made on the fine-grained sedimentary rocks on Ledge route. A contact between rhoylite

and andesite is present in No. 4. Gully.

Friday 8th of August

Geological data was collected from the lower part of No. 5. Gully and then during a long abseil (200m)

down the north face of Carn Dearg Buttress. A contact between breccia and rhoylite was observed at the

base of the abseil.

Training Week, August 2014

Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team Base, Fort William

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PRELIMINARY GEOLOGICAL REPORT (CONT’D)

Week Two (Survey)

Tuesday 12th August

Geological data was collected from the NE Buttress and the lower slopes of the Brenva Face – seriously

wet!

Wednesday 13th August

Geological data was collected during the ascent of Ledge Route and down a long abseil into Comb Gully.

Very good joint measurements. Data was then collected during an ascent of Gully No. 3. (very good

exposure of fault rock) and then a long abseil down the front face of the Comb. The contact between

volcanic breccia (with clasts of rhyolite lava) and the overlying andesite can be found on the front face of

the Comb.

Thursday 14th August

Rapid ascent of Ledge Route. Lowered down steep face to the west of Ledge Route. Good joint

measurements and laminar flow in the andesitic lavas (also aligned feldspar crystals). Collected geological

data across to the top of Arch Gully. Long abseil down the front face of Gully No. 3. Buttress.

Friday 15th August

Geological data was collected during a walk up into Corrie Leis from the CIC hut following the boundary

between the Inner Granite and the volcanic rocks of the North Face. Short climb on the lower part of the

Brenva Face to measure the orientation of a low angle joint/fault plane and then abseil to the base.

(L - R)

Contact between the Inner Granite (pink) and the volcanic sequence (grey) near the head of Coire Leis.

Good joint sets on the North Face of The Comb.

Aligned feldspar crystals (cream coloured) in andesitic lava.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PRELIMINARY GEOLOGICAL REPORT (CONT’D)

Summary

Over the next few weeks the geological data gathered during the first phase of the North Face Survey will

be loaded into Move software and reviewed prior to 3D model building. We are also planning to return

to the lower slopes of the North Face during September to map out some of the geological contacts in

more detail and identify localities for further investigation during 2015 and 2016. We are currently writing

up a more extensive report on our preliminary findings for the Geological Society of London’s monthly

publication GeoScientist.

Acknowledgements

We would especially like to thank the following organisations for enabling us to access some of the

fantastic geology on the North Face. The project, which is being led by the Nevis Landscape Partnership,

is supported by Heritage Lottery Fund, Scottish Natural Heritage, Midland Valley Exploration and

equipment manufacturer Mammut.

We would also like to thank all the climbers and the support team who kept us safe.

TRAINING WEEK

Day 1

Morning work with Lochaber MRT Training officer & IRATA Level 3 Robert Skinner in the Mountain Rescue

Training facility. Workshop on use of long rope lowers and abseils on major cliffs on N face of Ben Nevis

from his experience of both IRATA work and rescue work on the Ben. Practise of systems and use of

specialist equipment. Afternoon Session - Introduction to geology of Ben Nevis; workshop on identification

of geological features and rock types and use of specialist data-capture App to create digital map of Ben

Nevis. This included training on quality checks when recording data such as GPS accuracy, cross

referencing with OS maps and how to record features of importance to geologists. This session also

included use of digital photography with the GPS to locate plant species. This was followed by an

introduction to the history of botanical recording on Ben Nevis and the flora with specific focus on those

rare and scarce species identified in the SSSI Citation. Introduction to botanical recording, existing records,

botanical significance of Red Data List species and criteria for defining rare and scarce species. This session

also covered the more general montane range of habitats and their indicator species.

Day 2

A full day in the field with 2 specialist mountain botanists on Ben Nevis identifying common and rare flora

and indicator species (species indicative of soil types worthy of further investigation for rare plants). A great

deal of input on flora and their habitat, how this ties in with geology of area. International Mountain Leader

level of further training or higher. Practice using data capture app to record key information critical to

botanical survey.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

TRAINING WEEK (CONT’D)

Day 3

Full day investigating key areas and known populations on Ben Nevis. Input from IGMGA Guide on

mountaineering ropework to protect party in rough untracked mountaineering terrain. Further training in

botanical identification, surveying areas with previously known rare plants under supervision of botanists.

Refining techniques, including sweep versus deep, measuring population size and coverage, the

importance of scale, underlying rock type, angle of terrain, stability of soil, size of scree. Further training

on the specific methodology for identification, recording and quality checks.

Day 4

Full day on Ben Nevis working around Carn Dearg Buttress. Use of specialist equipment and big

wall/IRATA/MRT techniques as whole team to look at using long line (200m) abseils with independent

back up rope to access and survey full height of major cliff on Ben Nevis. Assisting/instructing the

botanical and geological experts in use of specialist equipment to access areas on the abseil line.

Rigging fixed ropes as hand-lines for safe access and egress from abseil station and instructing in

appropriate use of shunts and transfer across anchors.

FURTHER READING

www.climbwhenyoureready.com/blog

www.davidbuckett.wordpress.com

www.lochaberguides-fortwilliam.blogspot.co.uk

www.abacusmountainguides.com/blog

BEN NEVIS; THE HIDDEN SIDE

www.vimeo.com/nevislandscape

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PLANT IDENTIFICATION CARDS

ALPINE OR POLAR FOXTAIL

(Alopecurus Borealis)

This distinctive grass has purplish or grey-green flowering heads in a tight

cylindrical shape between 1.5 - 3 CM long. Leaf blades are flat and hairless.

Beside streams and in flushes, on mud & rocks in the stream or on wet, mossy and

grassy slopes; often associated with late-lying snow.

ALPINE CAT’S-TAIL

(Phleum Alpinum)

Erect or ascending shoots from a curved base, this grass possesses a

distinctive flowerhead with a dense panicle (cluster) of individual spikelets

10-30mm long and 8.5-12mm wide. The panicle is broadly cylindrical and

does not narrow at the base. Leaves are 2.5-5mm wide and are flat without hairs.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PLANT IDENTIFICATION CARDS (CONT’D)

ALPINE SAXIFRAGE

(Saxifrage nivalis)

Basal rosette of leaves, not dissimilar to starry saxifrage but the pattern of teeth

is very distinctive and the leaf shape is more elliptical than oblong. The leaves

are also reddish-purple underneath. Flowers all together in a tight cluster at the

end of the stem, with the red sepals upright around the five white, unspotted petals.

ALPINE MOUSE-EAR

(Cerastium Alpinum)

Low, mat-forming perennial, gray-ish green, hair. Vegetative stems creeping, flowering

stems more upright. Leaves densely matted with long, (>1MM) tapering, shaggy,

white hairs; especially on underside. Lowest leaves oval or elliptical, upper more

pointed. Bracts with white magins. Stems with 1-4 large white flowers (18-25mm) with

petals usually deeply notched, nearly to base. Sepals half the

length of petals.

SIMILAR SPECIES; Arctic Mouse-ear

Petals less deeply notched and usually more bent over. Sparsely hairy or with at

least some glandular hairs. Most hairs short, straight and yellowish making the

plant appear more green.

ALPINE

ARCTIC

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PLANT IDENTIFICATION CARDS (CONT’D)

HARE’S-FOOT SEDGE

(Carex Lachenalii)

This rather inconspicuous sedge has stems to 20cm, bluntly three-sided

with fine lines or grooves. The leaves are shorter than the stems, 1-2mm broad,

flat, dark green. The flowerhead is 2-4cm, red-brown with 2-5 spikes close

together. The uppermost at the apex of a triangle completed by the next two

spikes below. Wet slopes and ledges, especially in areas of late snow-lie.

These ID cards are an example of those developed for the North Face Survey by Cathy Mayne, Scottish

Natural Heritage.

PLANNING DAY

DATE Monday 4th

August

LOCATION Lochaber Mountain Rescue Base, Glen Nevis Business Park, PH33 6RX

ARRANGEMENTS Lunch & refreshments provided on this day

TIME 09:00 - 17:00

ATTENDEES

Project Manager Tristan Semple, Nevis Landscape Partnership (TS)

Project Administrator Teresa de Billot, Nevis Landscape Partnership (TDB)

Project Advisor Cathy Mayne, Scottish Natural Heritage (CM)

Film Director Dave MacLeod, Rare Breed Productions (DM)

Safety & Logistics Manager Mike Pescod, Abacus Mountain Guides (MP)

Digital Mapping/Geology Jenny Ellis, Midland Valley (JE)

Survey Botanists Ian Strachan & Gordon Rothero (IS & GR)

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PLANNING DAY (CONT’D)

09:00 Informal Introductions TS & MP

09:15 Introduction TS & MP

TEAM MEMBERS

FACILITIES & EMERGENCY EXITS

FORMAT FOR THE 2 WEEKS

AGENDA FOR THE DAY (HANDOUT)

DISCUSSION/QUESTIONS

09:40 - 10:00 Project Details TS & CM

NEVIS LANDSCAPE PROGRAMME

AIMS, OBJECTIVES, OUTPUTS & OUTCOMES

(HANDOUT)

MULTI-DISCIPLINARY TEAMWORK; YEAR ONE PILOT

DISCUSSION/QUESTIONS

10:15 - 11:15 Filming DM

INTRODUCTION & PURPOSE

OUTLINE OF GENERAL PROPOSAL

DISCUSSION OF EXAMPLE SCENES;

(LOGISTICS, LOCATIONS ETC.)

COLLABORATION AND IMPROMPTU FOOTAGE;

WORKING WITH SURVEY TEAM/STAGING SHOTS

EQUIPMENT LOGISTICS, ACCESS & SAFETY

SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS FOR FILM CREW

CREATIVE CONTRIBUTIONS FROM WIDER TEAM

SPECIALIST SUBJECT KNOWLEDGE; INPUT TO SCRIPT

REFRESHMENT BREAK

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PLANNING DAY (CONT’D)

11:30 - 12:30 Digital Mapping JE

MULTIPLE PURPOSES OF MAPPING

INTRODUCTION TO SOFTWARE

USE OF SMART PHONES FOR DATE COLLECTION

OUTLINE OF BASIC TRAINING CONTENT AND FORMAT

FOR CLIMBERS & BOTANISTS

DISCUSSION ON KEY LOCATIONS FOR GEOLOGICAL

SURVEY DATA

LOGISTICS

POST-SURVEY PROCESSING OF DATA & PRODUCTION

SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS OF MAPPING TEAM

DISCUSSIONS/QUESTIONS

13:00 - 14:00 Botanical Recording IS & GR

INTRODUCTION TO EXISTING RECORDS;

BOTANICAL SIGNIFICANCE & SPECIES

GENERAL APPROACH; SWEEP VS. DEEP

LOCATIONS & SURVEY APPROACH

SPECIFIC METHODOLOGY FOR IDENTIFICATION,

RECORDING & CHECKING

CONTENT, MATERIALS & FORMAT FOR TRAINING

CLIMBERS IN IDENTIFICATION

SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS OF BOTANISTS

DISCUSSIONS/QUESTIONS

14:15 - 15:15 Logistics & Safety MP

ACCESS TECHNIQUES

DAILY PROCEDURES; MORNING MEETING,

ONGOING CHECKS, END OF DAY REVIEW

PERSONAL EQUIPMENT, CLOTHING, FOOD,

DRINK, MEDICATION, SUNSCREEN ETC.

USE/MAMANGEMENT OF CLIMBING EQUIPMENT

OUTLINE OF MOUNTAIN ACCESS TRAINING DAYS

COMMUNICATIONS, REPORTING & EMERGENCY

PROCEDURE

REFRESHMENT BREAK

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

PLANNING DAY (CONT’D)

15:30 Planning Session SURVEY TEAM

AGREEMENT ON GENERAL APPROACH TO SURVEY

PRIORITY LOCATIONS FOR YEAR ONE

USE OF DIFFERENT TEAMS

16:30 Promotion and Public Education TS & TDB

WEBSITE CONTENT

EDUCATIONAL MATERIAL/ACTIVITIES

SPECIAL INTEREST ARTICLES & JOURNALS

PRESS RELEASE

ACKNOWLEDGING FUNDERS

17:00 FINISH

INDOOR TRAINING

DATE Tuesday 5th

August

LOCATION Lochaber Mountain Rescue Base, Glen Nevis Business Park, PH33 6RX

ARRANGEMENTS Lunch & refreshments provided on this day

TIME 08:45 - 17:00

ATTENDEES

Surveyors/Mountaineering Instructors Donald King, Alan Halewood, Scott Kirkhope

David Buckett, David Anderson, Will Rowland

Connor Holdsworth, Craig MacDonald

Film Director Dave MacLeod, Rare Breed Productions

Project Advisor Cathy Mayne, Scottish Natural Heritage

Project Manager Tristan Semple, Nevis Landscape Partnership

TRAINING PROVIDERS

Digital Mapping & Geology Jenny Ellis, Midland Valley

Noel Williams, Lochaber Geopark

Botanical Identification Ian Strachan

Gordon Rothero

Safety, Access & Logistics Mike Pescod, Abacus Mountain Guides

Robert Skinner, Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

INDOOR TRANING (CONT’D)

ACCESS TECHNIQUES

MOUNTAIN RESCUE TECHNIQUES INCLUDING: LONG LINE LOWERS AND HOISTS FROM THE PLATEAU;

COMMUNICATIONS AND USE OF RADIOS; SPECIFIC HAZARDS OF WORKING ON 200+ METRE ROPES ON

LOOSE GROUND; HANDRAILS; ASCENDING FIXED LINES; DESCENDING WEIGHTED LINES; FIGURE EIGHTS FOR

ABSEILING PAST KNOTS AND USE WITHIN HOIST; PETZL TRAXION FOR RESCUES.

BIG-WALL CLIMBING TECHNIQUES – MOVING 400 METRE LENGTHS OF ROPE AROUND, RE-BELAYS, RIGGING

AND DE-RIGGING, USE OF SHUNTS, HOISTING

STRATEGIC PLANNING – MIXED APPROACHES FOR SPECIFIC LOCATIONS, GROUND-UP VERSUS TOP-DOWN,

ALPINE ROPE TECHNIQUES, ABSEILING WITH SAFETY LINES

3D MAPPING

• INTRODUCTION TO DIGITAL MAPPING SOFTWARE

• FIELD USE AND HANDHELD DEVICES

• INDOOR PRACTICE

BOTANICAL IDENTIFICATION (PART ONE)

• IDENTIFYING HABITATS AND LIKELY LOCATIONS

• LIKELY SPECIES IN EACH HABITAT

• THE RARE/THREATENED SPECIES

• IDENTIFICATION TERMINOLOGY

LOGISITICS FOR WEDNESDAY

EQUIPMENT – DEPOT FOR MORNING TRANSIT

TRANSPORT, LOCATION & TIME

MOBILE PHONE NUMBERS

OUTDOOR TRAINING & SURVEY ITINERARY

DATE Wednesday 6th

August

LOCATION North Face, Ben Nevis

ARRANGEMENTS Meet at North Face Car Park, bring your own lunch, be prepared.

TIME 07:00 - 17:00

07:00 - 07:30 Meet at North Face car park; collect equipment.

07:30 - 09:00 Carry-in equipment. Species and habitat identification on walk to CIC Hut.

09:00 - 09:30 Morning meeting.

09:30 - 13:00 Species identification on scree slopes and lower buttresses.

13:30 - 15:30 Identification, recording and use of mapping software.

15:30 - 16:00 Review and feedback.

North Face Survey

Year 1 Report (2014 - 2015)

OUTDOOR TRAINING & SURVEY ITINERARY (CONT’D)

Thursday 7th

August | Training Day Three

MEET AT NORTH FACE CAR PARK & COLLECT EQUIPMENT/SUPPLIES

SAFETY TRAINING (EQUIPMENT, SCRAMBLING, PITCHED CLIMBING, COMMUNICATION & EMERGENCY PROCDEURE)

Friday 8th

August | Training Day Four

MEET AT NORTH FACE CAR PARK & COLLECT EQUIPMENT/SUPPLIES

SAFETY TRAINING (ROPE DRUMS, ABSEILING, DOUBLE ROPES, ACCESS

Monday 11th

August | Pilot

MEET AT NORTH FACE CAR PARK 07:00

PILOT METHODOLOGY FOR ACCESS, IDENTIFICATION & RECORDING

Tuesday 12th

August | Survey Day One

MEET NORTH FACE CAR PARK 07:00

DATA GATHERING; LOCATIONS AND TEAMS IDENTIFIED, EQUIPMENT CHECKED.

BBC OUT OF DOORS SHOW; INTERVIEW AND POSSIBLE ABSEIL.

Wednesday 13th

August | Survey Day Two

MEET NORTH FACE CAR PARK 07:00

DATA GATHERING; LOCATIONS AND TEAMS IDENTIFIED, EQUIPMENT CHECKED.

BBC LANDWARD FILMING (INTERVIEW INCLUDING CLIMB AND ABSEIL)

Thursday 14th

August | Survey Day Three

MEET NORTH FACE CAR PARK 07:00

DATA GATHERING; LOCATIONS AND TEAMS IDENTIFIED, EQUIPMENT CHECKED.

Friday 15th

August | Survey Day Four

MEET NORTH FACE CAR PARK 07:00

DATA GATHERING; LOCATIONS AND TEAMS IDENTIFIED, EQUIPMENT CHECKED.

FILMING - FRAN LOCKHART, JOHN MUIR TRUST, ON SITE

Post-Survey

REPORTS PREPARED

CONTRIBUTIONS AND FEEDBACK FROM ALL TEAM MEMBERS

[END OF REPORT]

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