No. 3 Preliminary Textile Report - Möðruvellir, Iceland

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Möðruvellir, Iceland 2011

Michèle Hayeur Smith

Research Reports of the Circumpolar Lab 3

HAFFENREFFER MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY

BROWN UNIVERSITY

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This preliminary report is part of an NSF-‐funded project at the Haffenreffer Museum of Anthropology, Brown University (Rags to Riches: An Archaeological Study of Textiles and Gender in Iceland, AD 874 -‐1800 (Award no:1023167 )), examining gender and textile production; and research carried out by Fornleifastofnun Íslands (FSÍ, the Archaeological Institute of Iceland) at the site of Möðruvellir, Hörgárdal in Eyjafjörður, northern Iceland. Rags to Riches aspires to bring women’s lives and women’s roles in the Icelandic economy, in household and regional politics, and in Icelandic culture and projections of identity into the forefront of contemporary archaeological research in the North Atlantic. The Möðruvellir project is examining the role of this monastic site and its relationship to the trade centre of Gásir in the late Medieval period and in so doing broaden knowledge of the economic relationships in the Eyjafjöður region. Möðruvellir was known as a church site since the second half of the 12th century and became an Augustinian monastery at the end of the 13th (Harrison, and Roberts, 2006). Like many elite, ecclesiastic sites in Iceland this one was supported by a significant farming estate (ibid.).

This report is a preliminary analysis of the textile material excavated from Möðruvellir, between 2006-‐2008. Analysis of these textiles was carried out in May 2011 at the collections centre of the National Museum of Iceland (Þjóðminjasafn Íslands). The Möðruvellir textiles were cleaned and curated with funds from this project (Award no:1023167) By Þórdís Bladursdóttir. Each piece was analysed for fibre identification, object dimensions, thread count, warp and weft yarn dimensions, spin tension (when possible), construction details, colour (evidence for dyeing will be performed in subsequent months), weave pattern, evidence for incorporation within larger garments or objects, adhering or incorporated non-‐textile materials, and unique features. All objects were photographed using a digital DinoScope™ microscope and a Nikon digital camera. Incorporated into the report are images from the DinoScope™ at magnifications ranging from 70X-‐200X. Samples have been taken from select pieces of cloth and await further analysis for dye identification. These will be carried out at the University of Rhode Island at the Department of Textile Conservation.

When these analyses were carried out, if envelopes contained multiple fragments of cloth listed under the same number and that it was clear that these were fragments from the same piece of cloth, the largest was recorded, measured and analysed. All of the pieces were, in these cases, described as one piece of cloth. If the package contained more than one type of cloth, each different type was assigned a suffix (e.g a, b, c…z) after the National Museum’s catalogue number to indicate a different fabric type. This having been said in the numbers listed below reflect each fragment to give an idea of the total number of fragments of cloth. The annotations z2S, s2Z, etc. refer to plied yarns: z2S means the yarn is plied with an S spin/twist (counter clockwise spin) using two z spun/twist (clockwise spin) single yarns.

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Textiles from Möðruvellir, were recovered from a midden called the Öskuhóll situated on the northwest corner of the farmstead. All textiles came from diverse contexts in Trench 1 placing them into two temporal ranges: 74-‐120 (early 13th to early 15th century); and contexts 121-‐130 (mid 13th to early 14th century) (ibid.).

Sites from this period across Iceland typically display a limited variety of cloth types. The most common types are 2/2 twills or vaðmál, which come in a range of qualities or threads counts. Cloth was used as currency and was legally regulated in Iceland between the 11th and 17th centuries. Cloth money was usually a 2/2 twill and, once acquired, was often re-‐used and transformed into clothing or household items. This is generally apparent in archaeological specimens by the amount of napping on the surface of the cloth, through the presence of seams or other indications of secondary use or manufacturing activities, and sometimes through the presence of adhering materials, such as animal hair or surface treatments. Tabbies (einskefta) were also commonly produced. Although never used as currency, tabbies were used to make garments, wall hangings, etc (Hoffman, 1979). Patterned twills and 2/1 twills are extremely rare for this period but gained popularity in Northern Europe during the Medieval period, they are sometimes recorded in Iceland. Knits do not appear in the archaeological record of Iceland before 1500 AD.

103 pieces were recovered from the 2006-‐2008 excavations, with 81 woven textiles forming the bulk of the material (78.6% of the assemblage). Felt (2 fragments) loose fibres or yarn (19 fragments) and one piece of leather misindentified as textile complete the assemblage. All textiles in this report are from the 2008 excavation season; an additional 23 pieces reported form 2007 excavation appear to be lost. Additionally find numbers MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0017; MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0035; MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0045, MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0062; MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0067 do not figure in the textile list provided by Fornleifastofnun Islands.

The material recovered from the site can be divided into the following categories:

WOVEN CLOTH 81

FELT 2

ROVING 0

LOOSE FIBERS/ YARN 19

OTHER (leather) 1

TOTALS 103

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Cloth type Numbers

Vaðmál (2/2 twill) 71

2/1 Twill 0

Tabby weave 2

Roving 0

Loose fibres/yarn 19

Felt 2

Uncertain weave type or material 9

Material divided according to weave type

As can be seen from these tables, nearly all of the woven textiles ( 71 of 81 (87.7%) woven textiles) are 2/2 twills here thread counts and weaving structure fall well within the legal guidelines for legal vaðmál (see Hayeur Smith et al forthcoming; Þórlaksson, 1991,Hoffman, 1979; ). However, whether obtained through tithes and taxes, produced on the farm itself or by tenant farms, some of this vaðmál was transformed into garments or household items as a significant number of pieces from the midden are cut off hems or pieces that display napping on one side caused by friction. This suggests that a significant amount of “recycling” of textiles took place at Möðruvellir and that the midden finds were sewing scraps. The total number of “hems” amounts to 19 , representing 23.5% of the woven assemblage. While not uncommon in Icelandic textile collections, Möðruvellir appears to have a larger percentage of such hems in its assemblage. Compared with the textiles from the trade site and harbour of Gásir in the vicinity, Möðruvellir contains far more legal vaðmál-‐ gjaldavoð -‐than does Gásir, while Gásir is rich in roving which is raw wool unspun and combed prepared for export.

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Textiles from Möðruvellir.

MO-2008-67-0001, x1- Trench 1, Cont. 74

Dimensions 27 mm x 30 mm

Weave N/A

Fibre Wool

Spin s-‐spun yarns

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft NA

Thread count NA

Colour Dark brown

Comments: No fabric structure is visible, weave has come undone and is now a clump of yarn-‐ all yarn is s spun.

MO-2008-67-0005 x1-Trench 1, Cont. 82

Dimensions 43 mm x15 mm (in widest section)

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 39-‐40˚

Twist on weft 32˚

Thread count 8/6-‐7

Colour Light brown

Comments: 2/2 twill fulled and fluffy light brown. Weft is woven s with slight thicker thread but a smaller thread count. One side has a sharp edge or was cut.

MO-2008-67-0009 x1 Trench 1, Cont. 75


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

6

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 43˚

Twist on weft 31˚

Thread count 12/5

Colour Dark Brown

Comments: 2/2 twill tightly spun warp and higher thread count, loose weft lower thread count. Additional white threads incorporated in the wool- may be roots?

MO-2008-67-0012 x 2 – Trench 1, Cont. 89

Dimensions 48 mm x10 mm/ 22 mm x 10 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 49.7˚

Twist on weft 30˚

Thread count 9-‐10/5

Colour Dark brown

Comments: 2/2 twill, loose and fluffy weft tightly spun warp z threads. Small fragments not indicative of any piece of clothing

MO-2008-67-0015 a/b x 2 , Trench 1, Cont. 93

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0015a


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 46˚

Twist on weft 42.3˚

Thread count 8/6

Colour Dark warp, light brown weft

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Comments: 2008-67-0015 a: 2/2 twill, z warp and s weft; darker threads are the warp and twice as thick as the weft.

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0015b (thread)

Dimensions 33 mm x 10mm

Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin s?

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft NA

Thread count 49˚

Colour Black

Comments: 2008-67-0015b are loose threads mostly s spun, though 2 very small ones are still attached forming the remains of a woven piece of cloth. These threads are very dark almost black- all threads are unplied.

MO-2008-67-0017 x 1. No excavation information available.


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 37˚


Thread count 14/6

Colour Black

Comments: very regular and tightly woven fabric, possible fine vaðmál. This piece was not on the list provided by FSI unsure of context.

MO-2008-67-0021 x 1 , Trench 1, Cont 102


Weave 2/2 twill

8

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count 12/5

Colour Dark brown warp, brown weft

Comments: 2/2 twill -on one side there is a seam (hem?) visible on the underside and possibly some stitches holding it down.

MO-2008-67-0033 x 3, Trench 1, Cont. 103

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0033 a (5 fragments)

Dimensions 56 mm x 32 m/41mm x 26mm/25 mm x 18mm/28 mm x19mm/18 mm x 11mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 37˚

Twist on weft 33˚ ?


Colour Tan

Comments: None.

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0033b (4 fragments)

Dimensions 21 mm x 12 mm/34 mm x 26 mm/24 mm loose threads/17mm x 12 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft NA

Thread count NA

9

Colour Reddish brown

Comments: several very fragmented pieces of cloth, one piece consisted mostly of loose threads.

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0033c (2 fragments)

Dimensions 37 mm x 10 mm/13 mm loose thread

Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin z? / s?

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft NA

Thread count NA

Colour Light red

Comments: Fabric portion to much napping to determine weave type or to take any other measurements. It also includes one loose thread, s spun.

MO-2008-67-0034 x 3 , Trench 1, Cont. 106

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0034a (2 fragments)

Dimensions 80 mm x 10 mm/35 mm x 10 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft NA

Thread count NA

Colour Black

Comments: M0 2008-67-0034a: 2/2 twill folded over to form a hem. It has been stitched down with what looks like a plied z2S thread. The two pieces are part of the same piece of cloth.

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MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0034 b (2 strands of yarn)

Dimensions 100 mm/ 280 mm –both diameter of 10mm

Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin z

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft NA

Thread count NA

Colour Brown

Comments: None.

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0034c (2 fragments)

Dimensions NA

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count 6/6

Colour Light brown

Comments: MO-2008-67-0034c is a 2/2 twill with even warp and weft giving it a more open appearance.

MO-2008-67-0035 x 1 No excavation information available


Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin z2S

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft NA

11

Thread count NA

Colour Brown

Comments: Plied yarn z2S

MO-2008-67-000037 x 5 , Trench 1, Cont. 107

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐000037 a (5 fragments)

Dimensions Measurement taken on largest pieces as others were too small: 65 mm x 50 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 31˚>40˚

Twist on weft 30˚>

Thread count 13-‐14/6-‐7

Colour Light brown

Comments: finely woven 2/2 twill

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0015 b (1 fragment)


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 45˚

Twist on weft 30˚>

Thread count 12/7

Colour Dark brown

Comments: None-‐ a sample was taking to test for the presence of dyes.

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MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0037c (3 fragments)

Dimensions 2 largest pieces: 52 mm x 42 mm/70 mm x 36 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 40-‐43˚


Thread count 8/7

Colour Light brown

Comments: Loosely woven 2/2 twill. One piece is hemmed with evidence of stitching.

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0037d (2 fragments)


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 29˚>

Twist on weft 28˚>

Thread count 10/5


Comments: 2/2 twill woven with fluffy weft and with evidence of napping on both top and underside.

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0037e (1 fragment)


Weave Weft faced plain weave

Fibre Wool

Spin z?/s

Twist on warp ?

13

Twist on weft 35˚>

Thread count 3/8

Colour Light brown

Comments: Warp threads are almost impossible to see and they are not very numerous giving the weft-faced appearance to the cloth.

MO-2008-67-0048 –x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 109


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 26˚>

Twist on weft 30˚

Thread count 12/7

Colour Light brown warp, dark brown weft.

Comment: 2/2 twill high warp thread, include one woven piece of cloth and additional threads that have come off the main piece.

MO-2008-67-0049 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 109


Weave Weft faced plain weave

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft NA

Thread count 3?/6

Colour Light brown

Comment: : Weft faced tabby warp threads are small and tightly spun. The effect of weft faced textile is enhanced by the fact that the weft threads are very fluffy. Note: This piece may be part of 0037 e as both are the same type of textile.

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MO-2008-67-0047 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 109


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 47˚

Twist on weft 29˚>

Thread count 8/5

Colour Brown

Comment: 2/2 twill loose weave and coming apart. Tightly spun warp threads more loose weft.

MO-2008-67-0045 x 2, No excavation material available.

Dimensions 60 mm x 13 mm/ 65 mm x 0.7 mm

Weave Felt

Fibre Wool

Spin NA

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft NA

Thread count NA

Colour Brown

Comments: Felt, this is not a woven fabric that has been felted but felt that was washed and pounded. Possible sewing scrap?

MO-2008-67-0041 x 3, Trench 1, Cont. 109

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0041a (1 fragment)


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

15

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 31˚

Twist on weft 30˚

Thread count 12/9

Colour Dark brown warp, reddish brown weft

Comments: none-‐ sample taken to test for dyes (weft very reddish)

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0041b (2 fragments)


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count 10/5

Colour Brown

Comment: weave hard to see, some surface napping and one hemmed edge

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0041c –(1 fragment)


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft NA

Thread count 11-‐12/?

Colour Dark brown

Comments: selvage? surface napping on the underside-‐ weft threads very fluffy.

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MO-2008-67-0050 x 2 , Trench 1, Cont.111

Dimensions 56 mm x 0.9 mm/ 23 mm x 11 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s




Colour Dark brown-‐black

Comments: Hemmed edge, cloth was folded over and sewn down, stitching apparent.

MO-2008-67-0052 single yarn, Trench 1, Cont. 111

Dimensions NA

Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin s

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft 30˚

Thread count NA

Colour Brown

Comments: None.

MO-2008-67-0055 spun yarn, Trench 1, Cont 111

Dimensions 36 mm x 0.2 mm

Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin s

Twist on warp NA


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Thread count NA

Colour Tan

Comments: Single yarn was plied once, -‐evidence of creasing caused by additional yarn.

MO-2008-67-0056 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 111


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s


Twist on weft 30˚


Colour Dark brown warp and brown weft

Comments: Warp threads are darker creating a contrasting pattern on weave, piece is quite fragmented and broken into little pieces.

MO-2008-67-0057 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 118


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s




Colour Brown

Comments: very fluffy weft – underside napped.

MO-2008-67-0061 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 119

Dimensions NA

Weave NA-‐ too felted

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Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft NA

Thread count NA

Colour Red

Comments: possible 2/2 twill that is so heavily napped that weave is difficult to see. Very red in colour, sample was taken for dye analysis.

MO-2008-67-0062 x1, No archaeological information available.


Weave Felted woven cloth

Fibre Wool

Spin z/?


Twist on weft NA

Thread count NA

Colour Brown

Comment: weave is very hard to see.

MO-2008-67-0072 a/b x 2 , Trench 1, Cont. 126

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0072 a (2 fragments)

Dimensions 182 mm x 65 mm/120 mm x 57mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count 10/6

Colour Black warp/ brown weft

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Comment: almost black warp, fluffy brown weft.

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0072 b (1 fragment)


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s


Twist on weft 30˚


Colour Dark brown

Comments: 2/2 twill, weave coming undone.

MO-2008-67-0063 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 119


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 40-‐49.6˚

Twist on weft 26?˚


Colour Brown

Comments: 2/2 twill? This piece is very fragmented; could not lift it to determine the amount of twist without it coming apart.

MO-2008-67-0066 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 121


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

20

Twist on warp 35˚>

Twist on weft 33.7˚?

Thread count 8?/ 4-‐5?


Comment: 2/2 twill? Very disintegrated, yarns are coming undone.

MO-2008-67-0069 x 1 , Trench 1, Cont. 124


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count 10?/6

Colour Dark brown

Comments: 2/2 twill; napping on the underside from wear. Appears to have been intentionally cut.

MO-2008-67-0067 Leather button?-No archaeological information available

Dimensions 20mm x 20 mm

Weave NA

Fibre Leather

Spin NA

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft NA

Thread count NA

Colour NA

Comments: Leather, circular donut shaped with central perforation. Button?

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MO-2008-67-0071 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 126


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin Z/S

Twist on warp 32˚

Twist on weft 31˚

Thread count 10/5

Colour Brown

Comment: 2/2 twill, napping on the underside from wear.

MO-2008-67-0073, a/b x 2 , Trench 1, Cont.126

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0073, a (2 fragments)

Dimensions 50.29 mm x 47.31 mm/ 39.47 mm x 41.42 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s




Colour Dark brown warp, light brown weft.

Comments: 2/2 twill darker weft thread.

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0073b (1 fragment)

Dimensions 111.29 mm x 52.65 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s


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Thread count 8/5

Colour Dark Brown

Comments: 2/2 twill -‐weft thread substantially larger than weft thread.

MO-2008-67-0074 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 126


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count 10/5

Colour Brown warp light brown weft.

Comment: 2/2 twill with a slightly darker weft. Fluffy surface and fragile-‐ difficult to handle.

MO-2008-67-0075 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 127


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count 10/7


Comment: None.

23

MO-2008-67-0080 x 5 strands of yarn, Trench 1, Cont. 127

Dimensions Reddish brown: 115 x 1.06 mm/ light brown: 18.24 mm x 1.85 mm/4.5 mm x 1.84 mm/1.77mm x 3.2 mm/16.92 mm x 1.89mm

Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin NA

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft S (all)

Thread count NA

Colour Reddish brown and light brown

Comment: some of these strands of yarn may come from the same piece. Spinning is not even, some portions are thicker than others. All the threads are s spun and on average are 29.7 º twist.

MO-2008-67-0078 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 127

Dimensions 70.72 mmx 43.52 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s


Twist on weft 30˚

Thread count 10/5

Colour Brown

Comment: 2/2 twill slightly darker warp but not significantly so, fluffy weft threads.

MO-2008-67-0081 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 128


Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin Z/?

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Twist on warp 46˚

Twist on weft NA

Thread count NA

Colour Dark brown

Comment: Hem from a woven garment or utilitarian item. No weave visible, all that can be seen is an amalgamation of z spun fibres, and fulling. Some stitching visible done with plied thread.

MO-2008-67-0082 x 3 , Trench 1, Cont. 128

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0082a (2 fragments)

Dimensions 51.82 mm x 13.49/44.13 mm x 7.91mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 44˚


Thread count 10/5

Colour Brown

Comment: 2/2 twill in two pieces- one has surface fulling.

MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0082b (1 fragment)


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 43˚

Twist on weft 30˚

Thread count 10/7

Colour Dark brown

Comment: 2/2 twill with some fulling so weave is sometimes hard to identify, as is thread count- very tiny fragment.

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MO-‐2008-‐67-‐0082c (1 fragment)


Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count NA


Comment: Fragment too small to determine weave and thread count-‐ surface napping.

MO-2008-67-0083 x 2, Trench 1, Cont. 128

Dimensions 290 mm x 11.91 mm/250 mm x 10.17 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s


Twist on weft 30˚

Thread count 10/6

Colour Brown

Comments: Two large strands though part of one piece of cloth (strand is broken up into 5 fragments). One of the two pieces is in better condition and the weave is more visible. These are both long hemmed pieces with evidence of stitching using plied yarns.

MO-2008-67-0084 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 129


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 48˚

26



Colour Brown

Comment: 2/2 twill; another hem that was cut away from the main piece of cloth. Stitching is visible on this piece as is the cut surface.

MO-2008-67-0085 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 128


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count 7-‐8/5-‐6?

Colour Brown

Comment: 2/2 twill with a lot of napping on underside.

MO-2008-67-0086 x 1 , Trench 1, Cont. 128


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s


Twist on weft 32˚

Thread count 10/6

Colour Brown

Comment: 2/2 twill fragment very small and almost completely fulled.

MO-2008-67-0087 x 1 , Trench 1, Cont. 129


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Weave 2/2 twill ?

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count 10-‐11/4-‐5 ?

Colour Brown

Comment: Weave type difficult to see because fragment is so small.

MO-2008-67-0088 S-spun yarn, Trench 1, Cont. 129

Dimensions 60 mm x 3.99 mm

Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin S

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft 34.2 ˚

Thread count NA

Colour Brown

Comment: single strand of s spun yarn folded onto itself.

MO-2008-67-0090 x 2 (cloth), x 4 (yarn)- Trench 1, Cont.129

Dimensions 21. 79 mm x 7.81 mm/12.26 mm x 10.79 mm/ strands of yarn range: 18.49 mm-‐ 24.68 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count NA

Colour Brown

28

Comment: These bits of thread and cloth look like they are all from the same piece of cloth. The single yarns are s spun, though from one of the very small woven pieces the warps are z spun

MO-2008-67-0089? -No number assigned to this item on display tray, Trench 1, Cont. 129

Dimensions 32.61mm x 14.29 mm

Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin Z


Twist on weft NA

Thread count NA

Colour Brown

Comment: a knot of z spun fibres probably warp yarns. This item had no number assigned on the storage tray, but 2008-‐67-‐0089 does exist on the list .

MO-2008-67-0091 x1, Trench 1, Cont. 129


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count 10/8

Colour Light brown, tan.

Comment: very small fragment of 2/2 twill.

MO-2008-67-0092 x 1, Trench 1 , Cont. 129


Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

29

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 45˚


Thread count 10/5?

Colour Light brown /tan

Comment: This piece could be part of 2008-‐67-‐0091, though has a different thread count because the cloth is distended and coming apart.

MO-2008-67-0093 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 129


Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin S

Twist on warp NA

Twist on weft 30˚?

Thread count NA

Colour Tan

Comments: Single strand of s spun yarn

MO-2008-67-0095 x 2 , Trench 1, Cont. 130

Dimensions 63.79 mm x 11.61mm/14.60 mm x 71.02 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count 12/6

Colour Brown

Comments: 2/2 twill, 2 hems from either a garment or utilitarian item, evidence of sewing with plied yarns as with other pieces from this site.

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MO-2008-67-0098 x 2 , Trench 1, Cont.130

Dimensions 149.75 mm x 18.83 mm /125.56 mm x 12.92 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s

Twist on warp 38.4>40˚

Twist on weft 30˚

Thread count 12/7


Comments: 2/2 twill discarded hems folded over and stitched with plied yarns.

MO-2008-67-0097 x 3 , Trench 1, Cont. 130

Dimensions 44.26 mm x 28.46 mm/33.15 mm x 18.16 mm/ 28.91 mm x 19.01 mm

Weave 2/2 twill

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s



Thread count 10/6


Comments: 2/2 twill all three pieces are from the same piece of cloth, analysis and thread counts were taken on the largest of the pieces.

MO-2008-67-0096 x 1, Trench 1, Cont. 130

Dimensions 21.74 mm x 18.23mm

Weave NA

Fibre Wool

Spin z/s?


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Twist on weft NA

Thread count NA

Colour Brown

Comments: Weave structure is impossible to see, cloth is too dessicated-‐ very small fragment.

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References.

Harrison, Ramona 2007 Interim Report of faunal analysis from the 2006 Midden excavation at Möðruvellir, Eyjafjörður, N.Iceland. NORSEC Report 33. New York: Hunter College Bioarchaeology Laboratory. 2008 Midden excavation at Möðruvellir, and Prospection in Hörgárdalur, Interim Field Report, Gásir Hinterlands Project 2008 . Report FS402-‐06383. Reykjavík: Fornleifastofnun Íslands. Harrison, Ramona, Howell M. Roberts, and W. Paul Adderley 2008 Gásir in Eyjafjörður: International exchange and local economy in medieval Iceland. Journal of the North Atlantic 1 : 99-‐119. Hayeur Smith, M; & K. P. Smith; M. Ordoñez. 2011 in prep. Time Warp: Vaðmál and the Textile Finds from Gilsbakki. Brown University. Hoffman, M. 1974. The Warp-weighted Loom: Studies in the History and Technology of an Ancient Implement. The Norwegian Research Council for Science and the Humanities, Oslo

Þórláksson, H. 1991. Vaðmál og verðlag : vaðmál í utanlandsviðskiptum og búskap Íslendinga á 13. og 14. öld. Háskóli Íslands, Reykjavík.

No. 3 Preliminary Textile Report - Möðruvellir, Iceland

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Transcript of No. 3 Preliminary Textile Report - Möðruvellir, Iceland