NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK Dailymedia.nzherald.co.nz/webcontent/infographics/925/... · My phone (aka...

8
By Fiona Ralph K Rd design encompasses its own edgy scene, inspired by the street itself. It’s a bit sexy, a little rebellious, and has a strong sense of community. Tonight’s Fashion Week highlight will be K Road Presents, an evolution of the A.O.K show that has showcased K Rd designers during previous Fashion Weekends. The revamped show, spearheaded by designer Lela Jacobs and the K Road Business Association, is now on the main schedule. Four quintessentially-K Rd brands — Jimmy D, Maaike, Lela Jacobs and Ovna Ovich — will show a mix of in-season and winter 2017 looks. Each designer has a strong connection to the street, whether through their studio, shop or home address. Many of them take inspiration from the area too, with Dobson saying: “It’s an eclectic street — there’s an ongoing and ever-widening contrast between shiny polished art galleries and the sex industry. There’s high and low, and as a designer I’m drawn to both. What better place to base yourself than a road that embodies such diverse contrasts?” Later tonight, designer Miss Crabb will continue the K Rd vibe with an off-schedule show in one of the street’s former strip clubs, Las Vegas. The Fashionable Contrasts of K Rd IN ASSOCIATION WITH NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK Daily FIND MORE EXCLUSIVE COVERAGE AT VIVA.CO.NZ/NZFW Tuesday August 23, 2016 VIVA.CO.NZ TODAY’S HIGHLIGHTS 11.30am Salasai 12.30pm Eugenie 2.30pm Wynn Hamlyn 7.30pm K Rd Presents Jimmy D, Lela Jacobs, Maaike and Ovna Ovich 9pm Miss Crabb FOLLOW US @NZHViva ALL THAT GLITTERS Fashion Week through the eyes of model Lydia Grace Tebbutt, who walked in last night’s Harman Grubisa show Fashion Week is so visual, beauty-filled and sensual. Which is why I begin the day in sweat pants. It can be a mission washing yesterday’s spray, glitter and foreign objects from my hair (I once spent two hours picking out dry glue). ‘I don’t care’ clothes are the psychological tool to get this done. When the mane is sorted I upgrade my outfit. Dressing is an exercise in compromise, as anything I wear will be surrendered to concrete floors and the squished spaces behind clothing racks. Denim survives, so it’s my default. Once onsite, I head backstage into a constant cloud of hairspray. Talented people do wonderful things to make me someone else. I put on an imagined girl’s clothes and walk her down the runway. It’s a fast, heady fling to be this other person and very soon I’m back in my floor-flung jeans, heading home to my sweat pants. 60 SECONDS WITH LIZ WILSON Chit-chat with Rosie Kelway The designer behind label Eugenie, Liz (left) makes her Fashion Week debut this morning. It’s your first time showing at NZFW – why are you showing? Because I felt like I was ready, and I’ve got a collection that I really want to put in the spotlight. What vibe can we expect at the show? Quite punkish, a mixture of raw and soft — it’s polished and there are a lot of contrasts. Velvet, denim, leather and a whole mix. What is something nobody knows about you? I’m obsessed with dogs. But everyone probably knows that about me! I really want one with pointy ears – that is my life goal. Are you going to any other shows? I’m definitely going to Wynn Hamlyn this afternoon, and trying to go to Miss Crabb and the K Rd Presents show later tonight . . . but I might be exhausted! What is your favourite celebration drink? I love whiskey sours. Picture / Jason Oxenham. Left to right: James Dobson of Jimmy D, Emilie Pullar and Abby van Schreven of Maaike, Marina Davis of Ovna Ovich, Lela Jacobs. Picture / Guy Coombes

Transcript of NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK Dailymedia.nzherald.co.nz/webcontent/infographics/925/... · My phone (aka...

Page 1: NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK Dailymedia.nzherald.co.nz/webcontent/infographics/925/... · My phone (aka my travel diary), La Mer (you will understand why when you join the club), a nude

By Fiona RalphK Rd design encompasses its own edgy scene, inspired by the street itself. It’s a bit sexy, a little rebellious, and has a strong sense of community.

Tonight’s Fashion Week highlight will be K Road Presents, an evolution of the A.O.K show that has showcased K Rd designers

during previous Fashion Weekends. The revamped show, spearheaded by designer Lela Jacobs and the K Road Business Association, is now on the main schedule. Four quintessentially-K Rd brands — Jimmy D, Maaike, Lela Jacobs and Ovna Ovich — will show a mix of in-season and winter 2017 looks.

Each designer has a strong connection to the street, whether through their studio, shop or home address. Many of them take inspiration from the area too, with Dobson saying: “It’s an eclectic street — there’s an ongoing and ever-widening contrast between shiny polished art galleries and the sex

industry. There’s high and low, and as a designer I’m drawn to both. What better place to base yourself than a road that embodies such diverse contrasts?”

Later tonight, designer Miss Crabb will continue the K Rd vibe with an off-schedule show in one of the street’s former strip clubs, Las Vegas.

The Fashionable Contrasts of K Rd

I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H

N E W Z E A L A N D FA S H I O N W E E K

Daily FIND MORE EXCLUSIVE

COVERAGE AT VIVA.CO.NZ/NZFW

Tuesday August 23, 2016V I VA . C O . N Z

TODAY’S HIGHLIGHTS11.30am Salasai12.30pm Eugenie2.30pm Wynn Hamlyn7.30pm K Rd Presents Jimmy D, Lela

Jacobs, Maaike and Ovna Ovich9pm Miss Crabb

FOLLOW US @NZHViva

ALL THAT GLITTERS

Fashion Week through the eyes of model Lydia Grace Tebbutt, who walked in last night’s Harman Grubisa show

Fashion Week is so visual, beauty-filled and sensual. Which is why I begin the day in sweat pants. It can be a mission washing yesterday’s spray, glitter and foreign objects from my hair (I once spent two hours picking out dry glue). ‘I don’t care’ clothes are the psychological tool to get this done.

When the mane is sorted I upgrade my outfit. Dressing is an exercise in compromise, as anything I wear will be surrendered to concrete floors and the squished spaces behind clothing racks. Denim survives, so it’s my default.

Once onsite, I head backstage into a constant cloud of hairspray. Talented people do wonderful things to make me someone else. I put on an imagined girl’s clothes and walk her down the runway. It’s a fast, heady fling to be this other person and very soon I’m back in my floor-flung jeans, heading home to my sweat pants.

60 SECONDS WITH LIZ WILSONChit-chat with Rosie Kelway

The designer behind label Eugenie, Liz (left) makes her Fashion Week debut this morning.It’s your first time showing at NZFW – why are you showing? Because I felt like I was ready, and I’ve got a collection that I really want to put in the spotlight.What vibe can we expect at the show? Quite punkish, a mixture of raw and soft — it’s polished and there are a lot of contrasts. Velvet, denim, leather and a whole mix.What is something nobody knows about you?I’m obsessed with dogs. But everyone probably knows that about me! I really want one with pointy ears – that is my life goal. Are you going to any other shows? I’m definitely going to Wynn Hamlyn this afternoon, and trying to go to Miss Crabb and the K Rd Presents show later tonight . . . but I might be exhausted!What is your favourite celebration drink?I love whiskey sours. Pi

ctur

e / J

ason

Oxe

nham

.

Left to right: James Dobson of Jimmy D, Emilie Pullar and Abby van Schreven of Maaike, Marina Davis of Ovna Ovich, Lela Jacobs. Picture / Guy Coombes

Page 2: NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK Dailymedia.nzherald.co.nz/webcontent/infographics/925/... · My phone (aka my travel diary), La Mer (you will understand why when you join the club), a nude

Daily N E W Z E A L A N D F A S H I O N W E E K / Tuesday August 23, 2016I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H

WORD ONTHE STREETWhat do you think of the hot new designer Lin Dà*?

*a fictitious designer

Kristine Crabb will show off the official Fashion Week schedule at Las Vegas on K Rd tonight. She gives Rosie Kelway a preview

Kristine Crabb has just celebrated the 12-year-anniversary of her brand, Miss Crabb, and tonight will show her spring/summer collection to around 150 guests. A mix of models and Miss Crabb friends will walk in the show — and if her 2006 off-schedule show at The Pony Club is anything to go by, we can expect the designer’s fun, independent spirit to shine.

Can you give us a taste of what we can expect tonight?We want to host a cool party for our friends, great customers and sponsors, so there will be beautiful clothes, dancing, delicious treats and beautiful people, LOL.Why did you decide to show “off-schedule”?We were simply going to throw a small party for customers and friends of Miss Crabb

but then the folks at Las Vegas club had this amazing idea and we thought it sounded really cool! There is always such a fun buzz about New Zealand fashion during Fashion Week and we always celebrate it in some way. There’s some debate right now about the purpose of fashion shows and whether they are still relevant. What are your thoughts on this?Like anything, if it’s good, it’s always going to be a hit.Who’s going to be walking in the show?We’ve chosen a group of women and men, some models, some “nodels” (non-models), some friends of Miss Crabb, artists. It’s actually something I’ve always done; featured unsigned beauties in campaigns and such.You’re showing at Las Vegas – why there, and why K Rd? It’s the coolest venue for dancing and it’s a beautiful club and suits the essence of Miss Crabb.The last time you did an off-schedule show was at The Pony Club in 2006 — can you share some memories of that night?OMG it was really stressful actually and so late at night, and a bit wild . . . I remember

supermodel Abbey Lee Kershaw went out in just a white lace catsuit — because we forgot to put her dress on over top — but she totally owned it and loved it. Other stuff went out uncensored but actually looked amazing . . . needless to say I’ve come a long way since those days.You’re going to be showing your spring collection. What’s the inspiration and idea behind the range?As always it’s an evolution of what we do, beautifully classic yet subversive pieces. We’ve used original Liberty London silk and cotton florals which have informed the interesting colours we have used. We’ve also done some tailored suiting separates, which I am obsessed with.Tell us about your upcoming collaboration with Mi Piaci?They asked me to design a small collection and of course I jumped at the idea because I’m pretty obsessed with shoes, and Mi Piaci is such an amazing company. I did my dream shoes: easy-to-wear glamorous sandals and slides . . . imagining good witches, Russian ballerinas and Dolly Parton.

Beat of Her Own

Picture / Guy Coombes

KEEP UP!For more insider action from the front row, backstage, the after-parties and beyond, follow Viva on Instagram @NZHViva

MAC KOIAHead of security NZME, 48“I haven’t been following fashion so I don’t know. Shall I Google her?”

OLIVIA VINCENTOwner of Muse Boutique in Newmarket, 27“Who the hell? Is this a local label? I’ve only got blinkers for the labels in my shop . . . Lin Da? How do you spell that?” (Searches Instagram for the brand).

CHRISTINA LEEBarista and manager for Eighthirty Coffee Roasters, 31“I don’t think I know it? I would probably know it if I saw it.”

Daily I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H

Page 3: NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK Dailymedia.nzherald.co.nz/webcontent/infographics/925/... · My phone (aka my travel diary), La Mer (you will understand why when you join the club), a nude

V I VA . C O . N Z / N Z F W

The Sydney-based social influencer, blogger and stylist is in town for Fashion Week.

How did you get into fashion?Believe it or not, I was the fit model for Australian designer Lisa Ho six years ago.What did you think of New Zealand fashion before NZFW?I see New Zealand fashion as being quite progressive and forward but also a little dark and edgy. My favourite brands seem to integrate more colour and are a little eccentric.What does your typical day look like? For me every day is different, that is why I love my job. A typical day will see me putting together creative concepts for

clients, styling and shooting. If I’m not actively working on a job I will be sourcing locations and meeting other creatives. I am also working on a new and rather exciting project (to come).What is your beauty routine?I have always been a believer in “less is more”. I wash my face with an organic cleanser and moisturise with a small amount of La Mer Creme De La Mer. Makeup wise, I am completely besotted with Charlotte Tilbury Light Wonder and Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze & Glow, Becca Lipliner in Nougat smudged with trusty Paw Paw ointment and a light layer of Clinique High Impact Mascara. Five items you cannot live without?My phone (aka my travel diary), La Mer (you will understand why when you join the club), a nude lipstick, my Dyson hairdryer and my husband.Three brands you are loving right now?Christopher Esber, Penny Sage and Vetements.What is in your handbag right now?Today I am using my Chloe “Faye” bag and inside is a disposable camera, phone, diary, lipstick, a bag of nuts, too many receipts and way too many coins.What is your approach to your own style?I like to wear classic pieces in a way that may not be intended. I love to layer and mix high street with vintage.What advice would you give young designers/bloggers/creatives starting out?Be patient, success will not happen overnight. And, more importantly, stay true to your brand.

Focus On: Brooke Testoni

FANCY FLASHBACKS

Write a poemThe elixir for a muddled mind. Take a pad, pen and

beret and let your creative juices flow while waiting for a show to begin. Bongo drum optional.

Chill Out, ManDan Ahwa’s simple ways to find your bliss

and stay centred during Fashion Week

If you get deja vu at Wynn Hamlyn Crawshaw’s show today, perhaps it’s because you clocked his talent at Fashion Week last year. As one of the designers debuting in 2015’s Choose Wool group show, he impressed with his merino knitwear midi dresses, cropped sweaters, skirts and ribbed polo tops, with time-consuming hand-finished tassels and felted embellishments. But there could be another reason for that sense of familiarity.

“My first point of reference this season was carpets,” the up-and-coming womenswear designer explains. “I realised those 70s-style carpets and rugs you find in your grandparents’ house or a hotel, with a full-on print, are as beautiful as a Turkish rug but also very nostalgic to me.”

Named Axminster after the iconic British carpet brand, Wynn’s winter 2017 collection gives a luxurious nod to the past, those flooring-inspired prints appearing on seductive velvets, and a 70s-inspired colour palette of gold, maroon and cream. Key pieces are tops and dresses in unexpected colours — chartreuse appears throughout — and with sculptural shapes and ruffles. The collection also features enzyme-washed denim, silk shirts in blue, white and maroon, cable knitwear, suits and cashmere coats.

Despite the throwback nature of some of the pieces, Viva’s editorial assistant and stylist Danielle Clausen has styled the show with a modern look, pairing oversized pinstriped

shirts with baggy jeans and minimal accessories. The designer’s aesthetic is best described as subversive classic, inspired by Wynn’s favourite designers Dries Van Noten and No. 21’s Alessandro Dell’Acqua. “I’m trying to use that classical element,” he says, “but be a little bit cheeky with it.”

It’s not the first time the designer has worked with sumptuous textures. His previous four collections have featured gold-leaf printed silk shirts and skirts, ultra-feminine crocheted slip dresses and pink suede shirts. Viva fashion editor Dan Ahwa says Wynn has developed a signature aesthetic over the seasons.

“What I admire about Wynn’s work is its sensitivity,” he adds. “There’s always a good balance of relaxed tailoring and interesting knitwear, but always thinking about the women who wear his clothes.”

Wynn went to fashion school in Otago then transferred to AUT before dropping out, deciding he wanted hands-on experience. He moved to Australia and started sewing and selling pieces before launching his label last year. Until then he worked as a land surveyor, possibly not the first occupation you think of when you think fashion, but not without some parallels.

“I think there’s a certain level of accuracy and calculatedness in both,” says Wynn, whose designs are selling at Eugenie in Auckland and Caughley in Wellington, plus stores in Nelson, Wanaka and Dunedin.

Wynn Hamlyn’s first solo show at NZFW looks set to cement his thoughtful, subversive style, writes Rebecca Barry Hill

Picture / Babiche Martens

Page 4: NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK Dailymedia.nzherald.co.nz/webcontent/infographics/925/... · My phone (aka my travel diary), La Mer (you will understand why when you join the club), a nude
Page 5: NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK Dailymedia.nzherald.co.nz/webcontent/infographics/925/... · My phone (aka my travel diary), La Mer (you will understand why when you join the club), a nude

V I VA . C O . N Z / N Z F W

The EDIT

VIVA ASSOCIATE EDITORZOE WALKER

shares what’s inspiring her right now

My favourite writer, Nora Ephron. I dip

in and out of this book when I’m feeling

uninspired.

What can I say: I love

cats.

I still have Rihanna’s Anti on repeat.

Versace Home plate.

Beyonce merch

patches.

Gypsophila, aka “granny” flowers, are my favourite.

Erdem’s London boutique is my dream interior.

Counting down to the new season of Scream Queens,

released on September 20.

It took me a few seasons to get on the Gucci

“new vintage” bandwagon, but now I'm fully on

board.

Tokyo, Jamaica and New

Orleans are on my fly-to-next list.

BEAUTY TIPS FOR SURVIVING FASHION WEEK

Go for a lip over an eyeI feel like it’s fresher and more polished — and it will look still fresh at 6pm, as opposed to a big elaborate smoky eye which can start to look a bit shitty by the end of the day. You can always make up your eyes at the end of the day, but start with a lip.

Use a booster and a primerUse a booster every day, morning and night. My Face Hero is excellent for that because it will calm your skin, but it will also plump it up and make sure your makeup doesn’t get eaten by your skin. On that note, wear primer, because it will keep your skin in check and will also keep your makeup in place.

Choose anti-hair over done hair If you are putting a lot of effort into your outfit and you’ve got an intricate, highly-patterned, colourful garment or a lot of adornment, go for an anti-hair look. Keep it textured, bed-head and cool. If you have an over-the-top outfit and you’ve got really done hair, you start to look silly. Look at how Alexa Chung wears her hair when she is looking fancy, that’s a good cue.

Take breath mintsIf you are going to spend all that time and money on your outfit, hair and lips, but you’ve got bad-ass breath, it’s not cute. If you don’t eat all day and you’ve got hungry breath, it’s terrible!

Stinky breath ain’t cute. Former magazine beauty editor, author and skincare entrepreneur Zoe Foster Blake dishes her top beauty tips

Prep your skinIf you can, get your skin looking good before you go. The fact that you are not sleeping, eating badly and partying won’t make that much of a visible difference. When I used to attend fashion week shows, I would always get a professional treatment before — two or three days out. For me that would be a peel or microdermabrasion, and a really juicy hydrating mask so my skin was in good shape. Then I would leave a hydrating mask on overnight for two nights during the week.

The humble hoodie reinforces fashion’s current mood for individuality and rebellion, says Viva fashion editor Dan Ahwa

Have you heard? Hoodies are trending. Don’t scoff: you’ll be seeing an abundance of the streetwear icon at Fashion Week, on and off the runway.

The high-end makeover may elicit indignation from long-time advocates of the casual classic, but there’s plenty of clever design work invisible to the untrained eye in these reincarnations.

The modern version harks back to the 1930s, when it was first manufactured in the United States, then subsequently popularised by the rise of all-American sportswear and the hip hop scene of the 1970s.

You can’t discuss the hoodie’s latest fashion revival without mentioning the oversized Vetements’ styles favoured by Kanye West, with their laissez-faire look, floor-grazing sleeves, strategically-placed cut-outs and irreverent prints. A recent street style image of Celine Dion wearing a Vetements hoodie printed with

Leonardo DiCaprio and Kate Winslet in Titanic is the perfect mix of nostalgia and irony.

Kanye’s creative director Virgil Abloh’s own label, Off-White, has a similar aesthetic, tapping into fashion’s current diet of torn jeans worn with a flight jacket and hoodie. A camo-printed version featuring the slogan “You Cut Me Off” will set you back about $900, a small price to pay for the legions of followers who fawn over the intoxicating blend of rebellion and bravado such brands have become synonymous with.

The hoodie represents fashion’s wider attitude too: in a sea of cookie-cutter fashion, it’s symbolic of a rebellious streak, perhaps derived from the garment’s popularity on the street and with youth subcultures.

Think of designer Gosha Rubchinskiy’s nod to Eastern bloc teen spirit (available locally at Fabric), or superstar Rihanna’s collaboration debut with Puma. The collection, shown at New York Fashion Week in February, featured oversized hoodies, reflecting her love of mixing high-end fashion with streetwear references.

In the Hood

Page 6: NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK Dailymedia.nzherald.co.nz/webcontent/infographics/925/... · My phone (aka my travel diary), La Mer (you will understand why when you join the club), a nude

Daily N E W Z E A L A N D F A S H I O N W E E K / Tuesday August 23, 2016I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H Daily I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H

FASHION FUEL

READY TO WEAR

Say no to nude, but keep it natural by showing skin that looks luminous rather than overly made up. An earthy appeal is the aim, in of-the-moment makeup shades for everyday. After years of the “no makeup” makeup look dominating runways, women who want a little more coverage and colour than teenage models will rejoice in the wearability of looks influenced by the boho beauty vibe of the 1970s.

What’s definitely not retro, however, is lightweight makeup products that glide on easily to enhance skin’s appearance.

“We will also see a lot more colour tones this year: browns, corals and sepia tones, says Sam Hart, Smashbox’s lead pro artist in New Zealand.

“I personally love this colour palette, as you can totally take a runway look and interpret it into your everyday look!”

Hart will supervise makeup during Fashion Week, with Smashbox doing Designer Selection shows and several group and individual lineups. The brand is also holding a ticketed makeup seminar on Saturday of Fashion Weekend with tips on how to use some of its show staple products. (These include Smashbox Primer Oil and Studio Skin Foundation and Concealer).

Perfecting your skin is the starting point to make makeup pop, says Hart. She recommends using primer oil over your usual moisturiser for a softer, more supple canvas and a glowy finish to foundation. For oilier skins use only on days when your skin feels a little lacklustre. Concealer is her other undercover agent. Use it in sheer layers over foundation in a shade lighter to better disguise flaws and redness through the centre panel of the face. Concealer is also your best choice to colour correct under the eyes, because in this thin-skinned area foundation is too heavy for the job. Then break out some black liner for added eye appeal. — Janetta Mackay

Industry insiders share their favourite spots across the country for food, drink and good times.

Dr Margo Barton, professor of fashion, Otago PolytechnicMy go-to place in Dunedin for coffee and food is The Bund in the Octagon. Love their fabulous Asian-inspired snacks matched beautifully later in the day with a glass of rosé or a local craft beer. Pequeno is the place for a drink too, an amazing bar hidden down the end of a lane opposite the Rialto theatre. Has great young jazz musicians on a Thursday night and older jazz musicians on Saturday night — a simply incredible, cosy, quirky wee place.• The Bund, 16 The Octagon and Pequeno, 50 Princes St, Dunedin.Anjali Stewart, designer, Twenty-seven NamesOrtega is the best place for dinner hands down. The prawn linguine is an experience in itself, the salted butter that comes with sourdough ... and the crepes OMG.• Ortega, 16 Majoribanks St, Wellington.Vicki Taylor, designer, Taylor Boutique and Creative director, The ShelterOrtolana is a serious favourite. I always find their food inspiring, full of amazing flavour with attention to detail. Do not try to dissect the menu — there are always things you have never heard of or tasted before but trust the chef. The flavours are amazing and the nights Gavin, their head chef, is on the pass, the food always seems to melt in your mouth. The part I love the most is that I come away feeling I have had more of an experience than just a great dish and I always want to go back again.• Ortolana, 33 Tyler St, Britomart, Auckland.Jane Daniels, designerIn Auckland we are blessed with so many world-class eateries, but to pick just one I would have to go for Soul. I can take any type of person there and they will be enchanted sitting under the hanging flower

CULTURE FIX: THE GIRLSSeen enough fashion for one day? Escape with Emma Cline’s The Girls, her debut

novel that has made waves for its intimate depiction of the complexities of girlhood. The coming-of-age tale unfolds in Northern California and is loosely based around the Manson Family, the cult led by Charles Manson, who manipulated his followers

to murder. The Girls is set in the summer of 1969, when 14-year-old Evie Boyd finds herself increasingly fixated with Suzanne, an older girl who is a member of a commune hidden in the hills. Seeking a sense of self, Evie’s everyday life becomes

overtaken by her desire for freedom and acceptance within the group.— $37, published by Random House.

baskets. With the buzzy atmosphere, the sea close at hand, the yachts with rigging rattling, the clink of wine glasses and lively conversation echoing around the harbour — it can’t be beaten. The food and service is always great and, in my experience, reliably consistent.• Soul Bar & Bistro, Viaduct Harbour, Auckland.Greta van der Star, photographer and stylistMy favourite dinner spot is everyone’s favourite — I always want to go to Coco’s Cantina. It feels like you’re in someone’s living room, it’s loud and fun, they give the warmest welcome, and the polenta chips ... I long for them! For a breakfast spot, if I’m ever in the city during the week, I’ll head to Ima. The bourekas is hands down the best breakfast I’ve had in a long time!• Coco’s Cantina, 376 Karangahape Rd & Ima, 53 Fort St, Auckland.Lucilla Gray, designerLoretta on Cuba St has a relaxed yet warming atmosphere, making it my go-to for casual meetings or lunches with friends. You can share a wild grain salad or indulge in a chamomile and burnt honey icecream. Contemporary rustic at its best — my perfect Friday wind down.• Loretta, 181 Cuba St, Te Aro, Wellington.Adrian Hailwood, designerMy favourite cafe is directly opposite me on Douglas St: Little & Friday. Isaac and the team make great coffee and I like sunning myself outside on a winter’s morning, it’s the best. Oh and they do those famous doughnut things. SPQR is still my favourite restaurant and always will be.• Little & Friday, 42 Douglas St and SPQR, 150 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby.Andrea Moore, designerI love Orphans Kitchen — so wonderfully boutique and inspiring. I love stepping outside our office next door and seeing what the restaurant’s bees are doing up in the rooftop garden, and what the chefs are slow cooking. The other night I had the best oysters with a Chardonnay iced sauce — beautiful.• Orphans Kitchen, 118 Ponsonby Rd, Auckland.

Ortolana. Picture / Babiche Martens

Managing editor Amanda Linnell. Associate editor Zoe Walker. Fashion editor Dan Ahwa. Writers Rosie Kelway, Jessica Beresford, Rebecca Barry Hill. Beauty editor Janetta Mackay. Photographers Guy Coombes, Babiche Martens. Designers Lucy Casley, Sue Pat. Sub-editor Fiona Ralph. Editorial assistant Danielle Clausen.

Commercial director Paula Blind. Contact us [email protected]

Daily

Page 7: NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK Dailymedia.nzherald.co.nz/webcontent/infographics/925/... · My phone (aka my travel diary), La Mer (you will understand why when you join the club), a nude

V I VA . C O . N Z / N Z F W

Ortolana. Picture / Babiche Martens

V I V A P R O M O T I O N

for them in mind, rather than what I want them to wear. In saying this, I have to evolve the customer on these trends, slowly educating them on what they need.

Being a buyer sounds like the dream job — shopping and travelling. Is it really as glamorous as it seems? I have an amazing job, as I am surrounded by brands and all this creativity but, on the other hand, it really is gruelling and very stressful. I have to buy what I think the customer will like, and this is sometimes an unknown as it might be a season too soon or the customer just doesn’t get the trend. Travelling is always inspiring and you get to see a snapshot into the future of sorts, so I’m always working ahead and onto the next thing. I’m always asked how my trip was and if I had a great holiday

— I wish!

Advice for someone wanting to break into the world of buying? Spend time on the retail floor and understand what the customer is buying and asking for. Designers design what they see as the next trend but sometimes your customer will only take a small part of this look and apply it to their wardrobe. Understanding what is commercial and what is just for press is key.

What fashion wisdom can you share from your time working at Smith + Caughey’s?This business is always changing and trends

evolve and stay, or come and go really quickly. Create your own trend and apply bits and pieces from the runway to your everyday wardrobe and keep changing up your style. I see a lot of people stuck in the era they felt they looked their best in and not evolving. Keeping it fresh is important without wearing everything from the runway in a single look.

BUYER AWARESome live to shop. As a buyer for Smith + Caughey’s, Kelly Chismon shops to live

Kelly Chismon started on the shop floor of the Smith + Caughey’s fashion department 18 years ago and has worked her way up to the coveted role of womenswear buyer.

You’re recently back from Milan, Germany and Hong Kong. What was taking off trend-wise?The sports luxe vibe is still really strong and not going away soon. Also, mixing tailoring and casualwear — lots of distressed jeans and wearing sneakers or casual shoes with corporate styling. Metallics and pastels are still strong, along with bold and geo prints.

It’s almost spring. What do you predict will be the season’s key fashion buys?Shorter cropped tops worn with higher-waisted bottoms. Wide-leg trousers and jeans, plus pleats and slip dresses.

What are you hoping to see this week? Really wearable pieces incorporated into the next fashion trend and styles that can translate to most women, not just a select few. I look forward to all the designer shows we stock because it’s refreshing to see the collections styled their way. Kate Sylvester’s always a favourite, although she’s only showing as part of Fashion Weekend this time.

You must have an instinctive sense of what’s going to sell. Can you reveal all?My career has been built from the shop floor up. I started as a sales assistant and have worked with the customers hands-on to see what they want or need. I buy a huge array of brands that cater to women of all ages and body types. I try to understand the customer for each brand and buy

Madeline Hart, Miss Smith’s Closet assistantWhen the weather gets warmer, I can’t wait to wear… the Twenty-seven Names ‘Field’ culottes and ‘Harvest’ dress.

My can’t-live-without accessory would be… my Mighty Purse, as my phone is always going flat during the day and this gives me a full battery on the go.

I am crazy about… the idea of wearing sneakers most places. Rules have changed and you can wear them with anything, from tailored to casual outfits.

I never leave the house without... my watch.

This season, I’m planning on… finding the perfect pair of jeans. I might try the distressed boyfriend look rather than skinny for a change.

My favourite Instagrammers are… Selena Gomez and Charlotte G (thefashionguitar).

Kate Sylvester wrap dress, $589, from Smith + Caughey’s

Page 8: NEW ZEALAND FASHION WEEK Dailymedia.nzherald.co.nz/webcontent/infographics/925/... · My phone (aka my travel diary), La Mer (you will understand why when you join the club), a nude