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PRINTING TECHNOLOGIES

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PRINTING IS NOT ONLY DONE IN FABRIC USED FOR DRESSES

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LUMI PRINTING PROCESS

• WHAT IS LUMI?

• INVENTORS

• SOMETHING ABOUT LUMI

• EXAMPLE

• ADVANTAGES

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A textile printing process using INKODYE that creates vivid photo-realistic imagery on all natural materials, including raw leather without any chemical treatment or processing

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LUMI TEAM MEMBERS

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Invented around 2005 and 2006 after 5 years of research!

By JESSE GENET’S FASHION INDUSTRY

Inventors are Jesse and Stephen,Los Angel designers

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• JESSE began to study types of printing that weren’t textile related, that is when she uncovered the building blocks to the Lumi Process.

• It isn’t a stencil process (like screen-printing) or a transfer process (like sublimation) and it doesn’t rely on ink-jet technologies (like digital printing).

• With Lumi we are able to print photography, without any manipulation, onto all-natural materials, without needing to coat them or use harsh chemicals to set the print

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This is a water-based printing

Inkodye and sunlight (of course LUMI MEANS LIGHT) are the main ingredients

Inkodye is the formula of the dye in the 1950s - light is very sensitive to it, which is a photographic property.

however, in cloudy weather, the "Print" have to spend double the time to achieve the desired effect.

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The best use out of cotton, wool, silk and natural fibres such as Lumi process effect, it also can be used for suede and wood

The ink can be the shades of red, orange and blue, because the persistent longest of these colours will not fade after repeated washing.

Lumi provides a kit, but the most basic starter kit at around $ 35

Some of lumi studio’s partners include PUMA, Junkfood Clothing, Cisco Home, Summit Series

and more.

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Materials required: Violet Inkodye, foam brush, pins, silk ribbon, b&w negatives a work surface board

An example of lumi process

Ribbon process

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Making your negatives:  You can buy a B&W disposable camera and take your own shots! High contrast negatives are needed for this project to work so try to overexpose the pics you take!

Cut your ribbon to the size of the negatives you'd like to print

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Lay the ribbon in correct position on the work boardin order to take it easily to the sun

Pour the INKODYE directly on the ribbon without diluting

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Now apply the dye evenly to all places of the ribbon by a foam brush

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Next, place the negative on the ribbon , smooth it evenlyand pin them onto the board

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Now take the board to sun and wait for5 minutes (up to 12 minutes in cloudy weather)

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Uncover the ribbon by taking out the negative

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Wash vigorously inHOT soapy water.Preferably use a strongtextile soap like synthrapol.If you do not wash enoughyour project may continue todevelop after it is dry.

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Dry it in shadow and enjoy using it!!!

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ges:

Photographic qualityNo pre-treatmentEco safeWash fastPrints over textures

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BURNT -OUT PRINTING PROCESS

WHAT IS BURNT OUT

PRINTING?

INVENTION

INFORMATIONs

PROCEDURES

PRECAUTIONS

WASHING INSTRUCTIONS

DISADVANTAGES

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1ST TYPE: Printing with a chemical substance - destroys the fibre in the design area, resulting a designed hole in the fabric

2ND TYPE: Involves blended fabrics – ONE FIBRE IS BURNT OUT, and ANOTHER FIBRE IS LEFT UNDAMAGED when treated with chemicals

EX: A rayon/polyester blend. When the burn-out printing is done, RAYON PORTION DISAPPEARS(burn-out) leaving the polyester unchanged. The result is a gauze-like print portion of the fabric

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In 1920

By europe

For velvet made of viscose & silk

Using sodium hydrogen sulphate

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Some information about burnt-out printSome information about burnt-out print

1) Other names - Devour process, Corrosion process, transparency

process, carbonization printing

2) Flat bed screen printing

3) Acids instead of colours

4) Normally the cost of burnout print without profit is $4.5 to $5.0/kg

5) Can be done only on some selected fabrics ( cellulose & synthetic

blend or cellulose & cotton blend)

6) best composition- 60% polyester and 40% cotton fabric or vice versa

7) Common chemical use - Sulphuric acid, mixed into a colourless print

paste

8) Mostly done on velvet fabrics

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Eyelet effect

1st printing is done with acid – it destroys a fibre and produce designed holes – then over printed with embroidery stitch

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procedure

Chemical requirements:

1.Sodium bisulphate

2.Synthrapol

3.Guar gum (thickener)

4.Soda Ash

5.Glycerine

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Equipments needed

1.Scouring m/c

2.Blender

3.Printing table

4.Printing source

5.iron

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1. Scour the fabric using soda ash and synthrapol in hot water at about 60⁰ to remove oil, dirt and sizing

2. Rinse thoroughly3. Prepare thickener paste – take water in a blender and

gradually add the guar gum. Continue blending till it is smooth

4. Next add sodium bisulphate to water for burn-out paste5. When acid is dissolved, add to it the glycerine(hygroscopic)

and the above prepared thickener paste and blend well6. Prepare the padded printing surface7. Apply the burn out paste by any form of printing source –

screen or stencil or freehand with foam or bristle brush

Steps to be followed

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1.Allow the fabric to dry through air2.When dried, it is taken to the ironing

table, place a cloth over it 3.Iron the fabric for about 3 – 5 minutes or

until the fabric becomes medium brown.4.Carefully remove the burnt out areas by

hand wash or brushing off or small vacuum

5.Wash with warm water (by hand or m/c) by adding synthrapol detergent

6.Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry

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Precautions & instructions1. Mix the thickener paste a few hours, or

even the day before you need to use2. Make the burn-out paste just before you

are ready to use it.3. The best paste penetration is achieved by

screen printing, followed by stencilling, and then freehand applications

4. When working on silk/rayon velvet, it is best to print on the back side of the fabric rather than the pile

5. Don't overheat the burn-out areas to a black colour, otherwise you run the risk of permanently discolouring the fabric.

6. While working with sodium bisulphate it is important to wear a dust/mist respirator, rubber gloves, safety goggles, and an apron or old clothes. Avoid contact with skin or eyes

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disadvantages CostlyWhen fixation temperature

is varied slightly, big colour variation occurs and residues can’t be removed off easily

Printing paste when used on next day will not give a smooth finishing (excess=waste)

Excess time / temperature may cause yellowing in unprinted areas

Risky acids – skin damage

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THANK YOU FRIENDS !