Cooperative

Extension Service

Daviess County

4800A New Hartford Road

Owensboro, KY 42303

(270) 685-8480

Fax: (270) 685-3276

http://extension.ca.uky.edu

HORTICULTURE

NEWSLETTER

“Around and About the Garden with Annette”

May 2017

Upcoming Events

May 29, 2017 Extension Office Closed

June 6, 2017

4-H Garden Day Camp Youth Ages 9-18

$10 fee & preregistration is required 6:00 p.m.

Daviess County Cooperative Extension Office

June 9, 2017 Kick-off to a Healthy & Safe Summer

5:00 p.m. Friday After 5 Street Fair - Downtown Owensboro

June 13, 2017 How Does Your Vegetable Garden Grow?

6:00 p.m. Daviess County Cooperative Extension Office

June 23, 2017

My Favorite Herbs Guest Speaker: Becky Kirts

1:30 p.m. Daviess County Cooperative Extension Office

August 18, 2017 Ag Appreciation Night

5:00 p.m. Friday After 5 Street Fair - Downtown Owensboro

Tips From Annette The growing season is quickly on its way.

Watch for tiny bagworms emerging on evergreens. They are easier to manage with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) products when they are small.

Remove standing water in catch saucers under potted plants growing outside to eliminate sites for the development of mosquitos. Change water in pet dishes and birdbaths often. Eliminate standing water as well.

Mulch tomato plants with straw or newspaper to keep the soil moisture consistent in order to reduce the amount of blossom end rot on the fruit.

Even though the temperatures were below freezing while peach trees were in bloom, we will still have local peaches beginning in July. Some flowers were killed due to the freezing temperatures but not all of them.

Don’t forget your sunscreen and wide brim hat when outside in the garden.

Enjoy the strawberry recipe on the back page. More Kentucky Proud recipes can be found at http://plateitup.ca.uky.edu

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With springtime finally here, we turn our attention to the vegetable garden. Getting your transplants up and growing will give you some delicious homegrown produce in the months to come.

Transplanting gives a plant more space to develop, but it will temporarily stop growth, not stimulate it. Therefore, for successful transplanting, try

to interrupt plant growth as little as possible. Whether you grow your own transplants or purchase them, these eight steps can ensure successful transplanting into the garden. 1. Transplant on a shady day in late afternoon or in early evening to prevent wilting. 2. Ensure transplants are well watered and their roots are thoroughly damp an hour or two before setting them in the garden. 3. Handle the plants carefully. Avoid disturbing the roots. Try removing plants from their containers by knocking them out in an inverted position rather than tugging on the plants. Plants growing in peat pots may be planted with the pot intact. 4. Dig a hole large enough to hold the roots. Set the plants to the lowest leaf at recommended spacings. Press soil firmly around the roots. 5. Pour 1 cup of a solution of soluble plant food and water mixed according to label directions. 6. Put more soil around each plant, but leave a slight depression for water to collect. Break off any exposed parts of peat pots so that they will not act as wicks and pull water out of the soil. 7. Shade the plants for a few days after transplanting on a very hot day by putting newspapers or cardboard on their south sides or cover them with a woven cotton fabric such as cheese cloth. 8. Water the plants every 2-3 days during the next week.

Successfully Transplant Vegetables

By: Rick Durham

Bearded Iris By: Lori Bowling

The bearded irises are a common, old-fashioned flower found in many gardens and landscapes throughout Kentucky. They are very easy to grow perennials that do best in full sun and well drained soils.

There are several classifications of the bearded iris from miniature dwarf, standard dwarf, intermediate, and tall. The tall varieties are the largest group having thousands belonging to it.

While they are easy to grow, they still can have a few problems if not cared for properly. The iris borer larvae can invade the rhizome by tunneling through it allowing bacteria to enter. This bacteria usually will result in bacterial soft rot, a very pungent smelling disease.

To prevent bacterial soft rot, it is important to use an insecticidal spray of Sevin or Malathion in the spring when the plants are about 3 inches tall and repeat spray weekly for 2 weeks.

Sanitation is also key to keeping this disease under control. Foliage should be cleaned up in the fall to prevent laying of eggs by the adult iris borer moth for the next year. It is also important to note that the iris prefers to be grown in a bed without mulch covering it, so it would be very beneficial to use a pre-emergent weed control regularly.

To help keep the iris rhizomes healthy it is important to remove declining blooms to keep seed from forming. If seed is allowed to form then the rhizome will have less production of stored food that can decrease the bloom production the following year.

Irises should be fertilized yearly in the spring when the foliage starts to grow. A general rule of thumb is to fertilize with a complete fertilizer such

as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 at a rate of 1-2 pounds per 100 sq.ft. This spring fertilization is the only one needed to help have a healthy rhizome.

Spring blooming irises can be divided in August/September if they are getting too thick in the area you have them.

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Bees and Pesticides in the Garden

By: Ric Bessin, Extension Entomologist

I received an email from a backyard beekeeper asking how they can avoid problems to bees when using pesticides in the yard. Overwintering losses of honey bee colonies increased in 2006 and remain at unacceptable levels, but at the same time, there has been a huge increase in beekeeping by hobbyists. This article addresses a few steps which can be taken to minimize hazards to bees, when using insecticides to manage other insect pests in the garden.

There are two main potential ways that the bees could be harmed when you spray your trees, vegetables, flowers, and lawn in your yard.

Avoid Spray Drift

The first is: bees can be harmed through spray drift when the application moves toward and over the colonies themselves. Many of our documented bee kills with pesticides have been due to pesticide drift where bee colonies were located in proximity to treated areas. So, as a long term strategy, try to locate bee colonies in areas that are less likely to be treated with insecticides, or plant vegetation around them to serve as a buffer to reduce spray drift reaching the colonies. Avoid spraying pesticides on windy days, especially on days where the wind may carry spray drift in the direction of the colonies. Many pesticide labels provide guidance on avoiding spray drift. In addition, spraying after 6:00 p.m. or when the temperature is below 55˚F also helps because the foraging of bees is greatly reduced.

Avoid Contaminating Bee Food & Water

Supplies

The second main route to injuring honey bee colonies with pesticide sprays is by contaminating their food or water supplies. As a general rule of thumb, you shouldn’t spray plants in bloom with an insecticide (in fact, many pesticide labels expressly prohibit this) or in areas where pollinators are foraging. “Plants in bloom” covers more plants than just the ones you planted or enjoy. This includes weeds that may be flowering. An example may be dandelions or flowering clover under fruit trees in the yard. The easiest way to deal with flowering weeds, is to mow off the flowers or pull them before you spray.

Bees need a constant source of water to survive; you must be very cautious to avoid contaminating these sources with pesticide sprays or other applications. Beekeepers may locate their watering stations for bees away from areas that are likely to be sprayed with pesticides.

Limit Pesticide Use

The final way to limit damage to the bees, is to only spray if you need to and use materials that are effective, but also least toxic among your choices. Pesticides are just one strategy to prevent pest damage and should only be used after we have exhausted cultural, physical, and biological control options. When pesticides are used, they need to be timed such that they are applied when most effective, which can reduce the number of applications, and when pests are at a level to warrant the need for control. Different insecticides vary widely in their toxicity to honey bees and other pollinators, and there is often several different types to choose from to control a particular pest. Products containing Bt or Bacillus thuringiensis are among the insecticides least toxic to honey bees.

Figure 1. Dandelions and clovers are

important food sources for honey bees and

other pollinators. (Photo: Ric Bessin, UK)

Figure 2. A honey bee swarm in an urban

area. While swarming, bees are less

aggressive. (Photo: Ric Bessin, UK)

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Youth Program Updates

4-H Garden Club

Girl’s Inc.

July 10 - (TBA) August 14 - 6 p.m. September 11 - 6 p.m.

October 9 - 6 p.m. November 13 - 6 p.m. December 11 - 6 p.m.

Meeting Dates for 2017 (All club meetings are held at the Daviess County

Cooperative Extension Office unless otherwise informed.)

The garden club members have been hard at work on their presentations over the past few meetings. They have covered topics such as how to dye flowers and how to build a frog hut. They have also been creating a vegetable twister board to help them learn the different parts of plants we eat. Members have started planting a few things in their raised bed, with plans to plant more at their next meeting. They will continue working on their demonstration skills throughout the year learning from one another about different gardening topics.

The Girl’s Inc. Garden Girls have been busy already this spring. The girls have planned out their garden by looking up recommended planting dates. They had a lesson or garden rules and safety using gardening tools. Earlier they planted broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower in their raised bed gardens. They also acted like pollinators in one of their favorite gardening games. In addition, the girls created cards for the local Hospice center to hand out to the patients. While gardening we learn about other agricultural and leadership topics. They loved having our Master Gardener guest speakers Monica Connelly and Susan Swihart over the last two months.

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Be Aware of Poison Hemlock By J.D. Green, Extension Weed Scientist

During the past few weeks the evidence of poison hemlock (Conium maculatum) is widespread. Although this plant is often seen along roadways, abandoned lots, fencerows, and other non-cropland sites, in more recent years, it has expanded out into grazed pasture lands, hay fields, and along the side of the road. The concern not only stems from its invasive nature, but the fact that it is one of the most toxic plants in the world. Throughout history, the toxicity of poison hemlock is well known for accidental deaths of humans and other animals. Description – Poison hemlock is classified as a biennial that reproduces only by seed. It is capable, however, of completing its lifecycle as a winter annual in Kentucky if it germinates during the fall months. Flowers and new seed are typically produced in late May and June. Plants emerge as a cluster of leaves that form a rosette. Poison hemlock is most noticeable at this stage of growth in late fall through early spring with its parsley-like leaves which are highly dissected or fern-like (Figure 1). The individual leaves are shiny green and triangular in appearance.

As the plant begins to send up flower stalks, the leaves are alternately arranged on the main stem. Each individual leaf is pinnately compound with several pairs of leaflets that appear along opposite sides of the main petiole. As the plant

matures, poison hemlock can grow upwards to about 6 to 8 feet tall (Figure 2). At maturity the plant is erect, often with multi-branched stems, and forming a deep taproot. Poison hemlock has hollow stems which are smooth with purple spots randomly seen along the lower stem that help distinguish it from other plants similar in appearance. The flowers, when mature, are white and form a series of compound umbels (an umbrella-shaped cluster of small flowers) at the end of each terminal stalk. Although poison hemlock is often associated with areas that have moist soil conditions, it can also survive in dry sites. Toxicity-All classes of livestock are known to be affected by poison hemlock. Cattle, horses, and goats are considered to be the most susceptible domestic animals although other animals can be affected as well. Symptoms of poisoning can occur rapidly anywhere within 30 minutes to 2 hours

depending on the animal, quantity consumed, and other factors. Initial symptoms can include nervousness, trembling, muscular weakness, and loss of coordination, dilation of pupils, coma, and eventually death from respiratory paralysis. Lethal doses for cattle are considered to be in the range of 0.2 to 0.5% of the animal’s body weight. Poison hemlock is also known to cause fetal deformation when pregnant animals consume the plant. Fortunately most animals tend to avoid grazing poison hemlock if other forage is readily available. However, animals may be more prone to consume green plants during the late winter and early spring when other forage species are more limited. All parts of the plant, including the seeds, are considered to contain the toxic principles (coniine and coniceine). Toxicity may be somewhat reduced in dried plants, but the potential for toxicity still exists, particularly when a sufficient quantity is consumed in dried hay. Therefore, extreme caution should be considered before feeding animals hay known to contain poison hemlock. Control-The principle strategy for poison hemlock control is to prevent seed production which can be a challenge since a fully mature plant is capable of producing 35,000 – 40,000 new seeds. It is too late to utilize herbicide control methods after plants have produced flowers. Therefore, mechanical control efforts (if feasible) such as mowing or cutting down individual plants should be initiated just before peak flower production to avoid or reduce the amount of new seed being produced. Make note of areas heavily infested with poison hemlock this spring and begin to look for emergence of new plants in the fall. During the late fall (November) or early spring (March) is the best time of year for herbicide treatment. In grass pastures and hayfields herbicide products containing 2,4-D can be effective when applied to young, actively growing plants that are in the rosette stage of growth. Spot treatments with products containing 2,4-D, triclopyr, or glyphosate can also be used depending on the location.

Figure 1. Poison hemlock

rosette.

Figure 2. Mature poison

hemlock plants growing in

hayfield.

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Common Name: Wood lily Type: Herbaceous perennial Family: Melanthiaceae Native Range: Eastern United States Zone: 4 to 9 Height: 1 to 1½ ft Spread: 9 in. to 1 ft Bloom Time: April to May Bloom Description: Purple to brownish purple Sun: Part shade to full shade Water: Medium Maintenance: Medium Flower: Showy Leaf: Colorful

Contact us for more

horticultural information at

270-685-8480

Annette Meyer Heisdorffer Daviess County Extension Agent

for Horticulture Education

Flower of the Month

Trillium recurvatum

1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons white vinegar or white balsamic vinegar ½ teaspoon salt 2 cups, coarsely chopped fresh strawberries 8 green onions, chopped 2 cups chopped cherry or grape tomatoes ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Buying Kentucky Proud is easy. Look for the label at your grocery store, farmers' market, or roadside stand. http://plateitup.ca.uky.edu

1. Whisk olive oil, vinegar, and salt in

large bowl.

2. Add strawberries, green onions,

tomatoes, and cilantro. Toss to coat.

3. Cover and chill for 1 hour.

4. Serve with tortilla or pita chips.

Yield: 7, ½ cup servings.

Nutrition Analysis: 40 calories; 2 g fat; 0 g saturated fat; 0 mg

cholesterol; 170 mg sodium; 6 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 4 g sugar;

1 g protein; 60% of vitamin C.

Source: www.fruitsandveggiesmatter.gov

In Season Locally in May/June

Asparagus Beans Beats

Blackberries Blueberries

Broccoli Cabbage Carrots

Cauliflower Cucumbers

Greens Collard

Eggplant Kohlrabi

Okra Green Onions

Peas Summer- Squash

Strawberries Greens Turnips Lettuce Onions

Radishes

Strawberry Salsa