Autumn Vegetable Gardening

Washington County Cooperative Extension Service

August 2014

Volume 10, Issue 8

Beekeepers 2

Horticulture Calendar 2

Plant of The Month 2

A Note From Dennis 2

Wheelbarrow Series 3

Spider Mites 3

August To Do’s 4

Garden Club 5

Lincoln Homestead MG 5

MG Class To Begin 5

Spider Mites Continued 6

Inside this issue:

HORTICULTURE

Helping You Grow!

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Washington County Horticulture

Early August is the time to start planting and planning for your fall gar-den. Many people don’t even think about vegetable gardening in the fall but it is actually the best time to grow many of our cool sea-son vegetables. Taste and quality of most cool season vege-tables is bet-ter in the fall because the weather is getting cool-er when har-vest and rip-ening time nears in-stead of hot-ter like it does in the spring. Vegetables such as lettuce, broccoli, cabbage, cauli-flowers, and turnips devel-op bitter compounds in hot weather; however in cooler weather such as in late Sep-tember and October these plants store sugars and starches which greatly im-prove their taste.

Now is the time to

plant broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower transplants into the garden. Keep in mind; these are cool season crops that will need extra water in hot dry weather to get es-tablished.

You can also seed crops such as beets, bush beans, kale, col-lards, Bibb lettuce, and radishes in early August. Radish can even be planted all the way to mid Septem-ber. With

beans, keep in mind that generally bush beans can be planted until August 15 and still make before frost, however be sure to pick early maturing varieties. The other crops mentioned can be planted anytime in August.

Many people in our area don’t plant spinach because it tends to bolt (go

to seed) and doesn’t have a mild flavor. This is because they plant it too late in the spring and hot dry weather causes the flavor to deterio-rate as well as stresses the plant which tells it to repro-duce or bolt. Fall planted spinach in September won’t go to seed because of the cool weather and short day length. Individual leaves can be harvested to cook or add to a salad. These small-er spinach plants will gener-ally over winter and give you early great tasting spin-ach next spring.

After your fall crop is up and actively growing side dress it with nitrogen fertilizer such as ammoni-um nitrate or urea. If using ammonium nitrate apply five tablespoons per 10 feet of row or 3 tablespoons of urea per 10 feet of row four to six inches away from the plants. Make sure not to let ammonium nitrate touch the leaves it will burn them. If it doesn’t rain water the plants soon to activate the fertilizer.

Page 2 Volume 10, Issue 4

Lincoln Trail Beekeeper’s Association News and Events

August Horticulture Calendar

Beekeepers meet the first Monday of each month at the Washington County Extension Office.

Master Gardener Association Meeting Tuesday evening August 12th at 6:30 PM at the Extension Office

Extension Today Radio Program Thursday August 14th at 11:00 AM on WBRT 1320 AM.

Washington County Extension District Board Meeting Friday August 15th at Noon at the Extension Office

Saturday August 16th Kentucky State Fair Horticulture ID Contest.

Monday August 18th at 6:00 P.M. at Saint Catharine's 4H Leaf Walk

Tuesday August 19th at 10:30 A.M. and Thursday Au-gust 21st at 6:30 P.M. Wheelbarrow Series Class on Fall Cover and Green Manure Crops.

Thursday August 28th Extension Today Radio Program on WBRT 1320 AM at 11:00 A.M.

A Note From Dennis Its been a nice summer, a little dry at times but for the most part I have had a bumper crop of just about everything! Granted I also had a $200.00 water bill in June but its worth it because we will enjoy home grown fruits and vegetables all winter! The great thing about growing and preserving your own is that you know exactly what’s in it and that peace of mind along with the great flavor is why we work so hard. That, and the fact that I really enjoy it!

School has started back and the girls were excited and a bit nervous for their first day but it all when off without a hitch and they really are happy to be back in the swing of things. They both have wonderful teachers and we are happy about that as well. Happy Gardening!

Plant of The Month - Yellow Moon And Stars Watermelon I grew this watermelon for the first time this year, they had the plants at a local Farm Store and I just hap-pened to be there so I tried them, and I have to admit this is probably the easiest and tastiest watermelon I have ever grown! Six plants cost $2.00 and I have gotten several really nice size melons of which have gone to friends and family because we just can’t eat that many watermelons at once! I have grown yellow watermelons before and they have all been much sweeter than the regular red versions, I have found that yellow fruits seem to be sweeter either in to-matoes, raspberries, or watermelons. Next year give this mel-on a try, you won’t be disappointed and it’s an heirloom so seed saving is an added benefit! Below is the description from Baker Creek: The picture is one of the watermelons I grew this year.

90-95 days. Rare, this is the yellow-meated strain of this fine heirloom; these are very delicious and have beautiful, yellow-orange meat that is very sweet. The large fruit can grow to 40 lbs, and they have large, yellow "Moons and Stars" covering their nearly black rinds. Our favorite varie-ty of the planetary watermelons, it was a real favorite at our 2004 "Heirloom Garden Show". A great variety for farmers' markets

Page 3 Volume 10, Issue 4

Wheelbarrow Series Registration-Classes Meet Tuesdays at 10:30 AM and Thursdays at 6:30 PM For More Information Call 859-336-7741

The two-spotted spider mite (TSSM) is a common and destructive pest with an extremely wide host range that includes many trees, shrubs, flowers, weeds, fruits, and vegetable crops. Problems increase during hot, dry weather but early signs and symp-toms are easy to overlook. Not only are these mites tiny but they live out of sight on the underside of leaves (Figure 1).

TSSM use needle-like mouthparts to remove the contents of individual cells as they feed. There are no holes

in the leaves; just tiny pinprick spots caused by emptied cells (Figure 2). This causes infested leaves to gradually lose color and

appear to be suffer-ing from drought stress.

An infestation typi-cally starts at the bottom of the plant. TSSM-damaged leaves lose water and photosynthetic capa-bility. As mite num-bers increase, infested areas of leaves change from gray-green, to yellow, to coppery brown and drop. As

leaf quality drops, the mite infesta-tion moves upward.

Weather and natural enemies usually keep TSSM populations at accepta-ble levels. Very dry conditions upset the balance and mite populations can explode. Drought stress triggers:

TSSM to leave grass or other hosts where they had been living. Improved food quality of other hosts due to higher nutritional con-

Figure 1. Two-spotted spider mites and eggs on lower surface of infested leaf. (Photo: Lee Townsend, UK)

Figure 2. Typical two-spotted spider mite feeding spots seen on upperside of infest-ed leaf. (Photo: Lee Townsend, UK)

Two Spotted Spider Mites Can Be Formidable Pests

August To Do’s Flowers

To control powdery mildew on be-gonia, phlox, rose, or zinnia try not to wet the foliage. Use a fungicide spray such as Cleary's or immunox.

Continue to dead head annuals and perennials unless you want to save the seeds. Most of our annuals will continue to bloom until frost if kept dead headed, wa-tered, and fertilized. Many perennials will re-flower if dead headed as well.

Divide perennial phlox, day lily, iris, and spring flowering bulbs such as tulip and daffodil in August.

Trees And Shrubs

Water trees and shrubs once a week, especially spring flowering ones. They set next years flowers buds in late summer and fall.

Don’t prune trees and shrubs now. This will force new tender growth that will get killed this winter.

Apply a new layer of mulch if you haven’t already. This will buffer the soil temperature this winter and will hold in much needed moisture dur-ing the late summer and fall which is generally dry.

Lawns

If you have dead looking spots in your yard don’t be alarmed it may just be dormant. When and if we have wetter cooler conditions many of these “dead spots” may green up.

Sharpen your lawn mower blade.

Mid Au-gust is

the time to control grub larvae. Mow your lawn and rake any grass clippings or thatch before applying any chemical. This will allow the chemical to get into the soil faster. Apply Dylox or Bayer Advanced 24 hour grub control.

Don’t fertilize turf until October, November, or December. Fertilizing now will only stress the turf even more.

Get a soil test done now on your lawn. The results will be available later this fall when the rec-ommended one and only fertilizer application for low maintenance turf is needed.

Fruit

Keep mulch at least 2-3 inches deep around bush and vine fruits to con-

trol weeds and conserve moisture.

Prune out old canes that have fruited from June-bearing raspberries. This will reduce disease spread.

When the raspberry and blackberry harvest is over spray the plants well with sevin. This will kill the Japanese beetles and the cane borers.

Now is a good time to thin out strawberry plants. It is best to leave 5-7 plants per row for a good harvest next year.

Make a mental note of the apple and pear trees that have had or have fire blight. Next spring those are the trees that will have the most cankers. By pruning those out you will greatly reduce the amount of innoculum available for the disease to spread.

If your apples are late maturing con-tinue sprays for apple scab. Also any leaves that fall should be raked up and disposed of because they harbor spores for future disease outbreaks.

It is a good idea to clean up fallen fruit from under any fruit trees in-

stead of letting it decompose in place. This de-bris will also harbor disease organisms for next years out-break.

When picking and ripening

blueberries it is best to allow the ber-ries to remain on the plant for 3 days after it turns purple. This will allow it to develop maximum flavor and sugar content.

Washington County Garden Club News and Events

Next meeting is Tuesday evening August 12th at 6:30 P.M. at the Extension Office. Save The Date: State Master Gardener Conference September 11-12.

Lincoln Homestead Master Gardeners News and Events

The Kentucky Master Gardener Program is set to begin at the Washington Coun-ty Extension Office on Monday September 8, 2014 at 1:00 P.M. until 4 P.M. We will meet on the following Mondays from 1:00 until 4 P.M., September 8, 15, 22, 29; October 6, 20, November 10, 17, 24; and December 1. We will also have an all day trip to Lexington to be scheduled once class begins.

The Kentucky Master Gardener Program is a 14 week program taught by Horticulture Extension Agents and University of Ken-tucky Specialists. Participants will learn in depth about an array of topics including botany, entomology, turf care, fruit and vege-table production, disease management, and an array of other top-ics some of which the students get to pick. This program is for those that have a desire to learn and a deep interest in horticul-ture and community.

The cost for this program is $50.00 which covers the cost of the book (which you get to keep). If you are have a spouse, partner, or even good friend and each of you would like to become a Kentucky Master Gardener you can share the book and pay only $50.00. Upon completion of the classes each participant is required to complete 30 hours of volunteer work within one calendar year in their community, volunteering at the extension office is encouraged. When you complete your volunteer work you will get a pin stating your name and the Kentucky Master Gardener Logo.

The Master Gardener Program gives individuals the opportunity to learn about horticulture, meet people who have like interests, and gives them a chance to help those in need. If you would like more information about becoming a Kentucky Master Gardener call Dennis Morgeson Washington County Agent for Horticulture at 859-336-7741, don’t worry if you aren’t a resident of Washington County, everyone is welcomed and encouraged to complete our program if your county doesn’t offer it. I need at least ten participants for a class so if you are interested contact me as soon as possible.

Master Gardener Class Set To Begin September 8th

Annual Garden Club Pot-Luck August 26, 2014 At the Washington County Extension Office at 6:00 P.M., bring your best dishes and a healthy appetite. We will also plan our September and October meetings. Please call the Extension Office to let us know you plan to attend, the club is providing the meat.

211 Progress Road Springfield KY, 40069 Office 859-336-7741 Fax 859-336-7445

Email dennis.morgeson@uky.edu

Washington County Cooperative Extension Service

We Are On The Web!!!

washington.ca.uky.edu

Facebook at: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Washington-County-Horticulture/140659449317295

Spider Mites Continued

tent of sap. Reduced effectiveness of fungal diseases that attack mites. These dis-eases are favored by cool tempera-tures and high humidity. TSSM development is more rap-id at higher temperatures. Homeowner options for TSSM con-trol are limited to insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils. These require direct contact so thorough plant cov-erage is required, along with repeated applications.

Spider Mites on Vegetables

Reports of TSSM activity on vegeta-ble crops has increased over the past couple of weeks, particularly on to-matoes and beans. As populations get larger, webbing may become ap-parent between leaves and other plant parts (Figure 3). The mites can be seen with a hand lens so produc-ers should confirm active popula-tions if they see foliar damage.

Monitoring and Management

Growers should be monitoring for spider mites and mite dam-age at least on a weekly basis, particularly dur-ing hot, dry weather. Green-houses and high tunnels are more likely to have spider mites than the field since the hot, dry condi-tions within tunnels pro-mote more rapid development of mite populations. While mites can attack a wide variety of vegetable plants, tomatoes, beans, watermel-ons, and eggplant are among those most commonly affected by spider mites.

Commercial growers have a number of miticides available to control mites; these are listed in Vegetable Production Guide for Commercial

Growers (ID-36). Some of the mate-rials are only used as miticides, while Brigade and Danitol are pyrethroids that are insecticides and they are mit-icides at high rates.

By Ric Bessin and Lee Townsend, Extension Entomologists

Figure 3. Webbing and gold flecking of tomato fruit caused by two-spotted spider mite. (Photo: Ric Bessin, UK)