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RECIPES Matt upson PHOTOGRAPHY Sharyn Cairns STYLING leesa o’reilly FOOD STYLING Sophia YoungLOCATION Southern ocean lodge, Hanson Bay, Kangaroo island, Sa. Bookings (02) 9918 4355, southernoceanlodge.com.au

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views of the Southern ocean CLOCkwISE, FROm bOTTOm LEFT owner of Southern ocean lodge, Hayley Baillie; the suites; producer Justin Harman; Hayley with husband James and producer Peter Davis OPPOSITE Butter-poached andermel Marron with avocado, chilli and ginger salad (recipe page 96)

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I t’s a tough gig, but someone’s got to do it – moving lock, stock and barrel from the chic auspices of Capella Lodge on Lord Howe Island to head up the kitchen

for a year at its sister property, Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island.

Matt Upson has been cooking here (when he’s not surfing, fishing or diving...) since last March, and discovering the wealth of ingredients being produced almost in his own backyard. “We’re passionate about supporting our local growers.” he says. “The owners of the lodge, James and Hayley Baillie, call it a ‘zero food-mile philosophy’, and there are new ingredients appearing all the time – often picked especially for us.”

Even the local school is in on the act, with kids from year nine onwards involved in the farming of barramundi. “And one farmer’s planted oak trees, so there’ll be

truffles here in five years’ time. The variety is amazing – cherries, lettuces, potatoes. The only thing the island lacks is a slaughterhouse; all our beef and sheep is shipped to the mainland to be processed, then shipped back, which is a shame.”

For this lunch, the Baillies invited some of their neighbours for a lunch to showcase the fantastic produce they supply for Matt’s menus. They included Tina Kleeven, of Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods, Daniel Pattingale of KI Olive Oil Co, Andy and Kate Gilfillan of Southrock Lamb, Peter Davis of Island Beehive (a 2005 VE+T Produce Awards winner), Justin Harman of KI Abalone, and Kate Brooksby, who hand-harvests samphire from the island’s salt marshes – with scissors!

And what about his kitchen garden?“It’s pretty hard growing things when

you’re on a national park property. The native fauna gets to everything first!”

bELOw Southern ocean lodge chef Matt upson; Kangaroo island producers Daniel Pattingale, Kate Brooksby and andy gilfillan

Kangaroo island feta, eggplant and tomato crostini

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Kangaroo Island feta, eggplant and tomato crostini

2007 Islander estate ‘Wally WhIte’ semIllon

vIognIer, Kangaroo Island

+Braised Kangaroo Island

Abalone with Japanese flavours

2008 Bay of shoals rIeslIng, Kangaroo Island

+Butter-poached Andermel

Marron with avocado, chilli and ginger salad

2008 rooKery chardonnay, Kangaroo Island

Red snapper, Good Island Samphire, preserved lemon,

capers and fennel

2008 tWo Wheeler creeK sauvIgnon Blanc, Kangaroo Island

+Southrock Lamb with broad beans, pine nuts and olives

2005 rooKery sangIovese, Kangaroo Island

+Marinated berries with Kangaroo Island Honey

cream and toasted sponge

2008 tWo hands ‘BrIllIant dIsguIse’ moscato,

Barossa valley

menu serves 8

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Braised Kangaroo island abalone with Japanese flavours

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Southrock lamb with broad beans, pine

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BrAIseD ABALONe WITH JAPANese FLAvOUrsStart this recipe a day ahead.

10cm piece kombu (dried kelp)+, rinsed45g bonito flakes+

100ml shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)+

1 tablespoons mirin (sweet rice wine)+

2 teaspoons sake (cooking rice wine)+

5 x 2g gold-strength gelatine leaves4cm piece ginger, peeled,

cut into julienne, plus 2cm slice of ginger

500ml (2 cups) rice vinegar110g (½ cup) caster sugar 500g piece daikon (white radish),

peeled, cut into julienne2 x 130g Kangaroo island live

green-lip abalone+, cleaned1 green onion, cut into julienneShiso or coriander leaves, to serve

Bring 2 litres water to the boil in a saucepan, turn off heat and add kombu and bonito. Once bonito flakes have sunk, strain through a fine sieve into a bowl and add shoyu, mirin and sake.

Bring 500ml (2 cups) bonito broth to the boil in a saucepan. Refrigerate remaining broth until needed.

Meanwhile, soften gelatine in cold water for 3 minutes, then squeeze out excess water and whisk into hot broth until dissolved. Grease a 17cm square cake tin, pour in gelatine mixture, then refrigerate overnight to set.

For pickle, place julienne of ginger, vinegar, sugar and a pinch of sea salt in a pan. Stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves, then pour over daikon in a heatproof bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

The next day, place remaining broth and 2cm slice of ginger in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add abalone, cook for 1½ hours or until tender, then cool in broth. Discard broth and thinly slice abalone.

To serve, cut jelly into 4cm squares and top with abalone, a little drained daikon pickle, onion and coriander.+ Kombu, bonito, shoyu, mirin and sake are available from Asian food stores. For abalone, see produce notes, page 97.

red snapper, good island Samphire, preserved lemon,

capers and fennel

KANGArOO IsLAND FeTA, eGGPLANT AND TOMATO CrOsTINIMakes 16

450g eggplant, peeled,

cut into 2cm cubes250g island Pure Kangaroo island

sheep’s-milk feta+

1 teaspoon chopped lemon thyme finely grated zest of ½ lemon 2 tablespoons Kangaroo island

extra virgin olive oil+

16 (about 250g) cherry tomatoes, halved

¼ bunch each flat-leaf parsley and coriander, leaves picked

50g (½ cup) walnuts, roasted1 baguette, cut on the diagonal into

16 x 1.5cm-thick slices, toasted2 teaspoons sesame seeds, roasted

DressING2½ tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon caster sugar½ clove garlic, crushed80ml (1/3 cup) walnut oil 2½ tablespoons Kangaroo island

olive oil+

Steam eggplant, covered, in a bamboo steamer over a saucepan of simmering water for 8 minutes, then cool.

Process feta in a food processor until smooth. Add thyme and lemon zest, and season with freshly ground black pepper. Turn processor to pulse setting, then drizzle in oil until incorporated.

For dressing stir juice, sugar and garlic together until sugar dissolves, then whisk in both oils and season.

Combine eggplant, tomatoes, herbs and walnuts, add dressing and toss gently to combine.

Spread feta mixture over toasts, then top with eggplant and tomato mixture. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve.+ See produce notes, page 97.

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+ Placing the marron in the freezer will put them to sleep and is the most humane way to cook them. For details on marron, see produce notes, opposite.

reD sNAPPer, GOOD IsLAND sAMPHIre, PreserveD LeMON, CAPers AND FeNNeL

125ml (½ cup) Kangaroo island olive oil+

4 cloves garlic8 x 200g pieces red snapper,

pin-boned1 tablespoon australian salted capers+,

soaked in warm water for 20 minutes1 preserved lemon, flesh discarded,

skin cut into julienne160g samphire+ or 2 bunches

asparagus, halved, blanched1 small bulb fennel, trimmed,

halved, thinly sliced½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked

Heat oil and garlic in a small pan over low heat for 15 minutes or until garlic is tender. Remove from heat and, when cool, thinly slice garlic and reserve oil.

Preheat oven to 190°C. Season fish skin with sea salt. Heat 1½ tablespoons reserved garlic oil in a heavy-based frying pan over high heat, place half the fish, skin-side down, in the pan, and, using a spatula, press down to flatten fish as it begins to curl. Cook for 4 minutes or until skin is browned, then transfer, skin-side up, to a baking-paper lined oven tray. Repeat with 1½ tablespoons garlic oil and remaining fish. Place tray in oven and cook fish for a further 3 minutes for medium-rare, or until cooked to your liking.

Meanwhile, heat a wok over high heat until hot, add remaining garlic oil and capers, and cook for 1 minute or until capers begin to pop. Add reserved garlic, preserved lemon, samphire, fennel and parsley, season with freshly ground black pepper and cook, tossing, for 2 minutes or until fennel has started to soften. If using asparagus, cook until warmed through.

To serve, divide vegetables among plates, then top with a piece of fish.+ See produce notes, opposite.

sOUTHrOCK LAMB WITH BrOAD BeANs, PINe NUTs AND OLIvesStart this recipe a day ahead.

4 cloves garlic1 tablespoon rosemary leaves8 sage leaves1 tablespoon thyme leaves60ml (¼ cup) Kangaroo island extra

virgin olive oil+, plus extra, to brush1 Southrock full lamb saddle, boned+

8 eschalots30g butter

Marinated berries with Kangaroo island Honey cream and toasted sponge

Twist marron heads from bodies, then discard heads. Using kitchen scissors, cut along the soft undershell and gently pull out the tail meat. Cut the tail meat in half lengthwise, then remove the digestive tract.

Place avocados, Tabasco and lemon juice in a bowl, season, then toss gently to combine. Chop ½ long red chilli into julienne and add to avocado mixture with cucumber, eschalot, vinegar and a pinch of sugar. Toss salad gently to combine, then divide among 8 plates.

For sauce, slice remaining chilli on the diagonal. Heat a large frying pan over high heat and, when hot, add oil, ginger and chilli. Cook for 2 minutes or until ginger is golden. Immediately add butter, then marrons, cut-side down. Reduce heat to medium, season with sea salt and cook for 1 minute or until light golden. Turn marrons over and cook for a further minute. Drain on paper towel.

Top each salad with 2 marron halves, a piece of crisp ginger and chilli, and coriander leaves. Serve immediately, drizzled with a little butter sauce.

BUTTer-POACHeD ANDerMeL MArrON WITH AvOCADO, CHILLI AND GINGer sALAD

8 x 300g live marrons or 16 x 130g Balmain bugs, placed in the freezer for 1 hour+

2 avocados, cut into 1cm dicea few drops of tabasco sauce2 tablespoons lemon juice1½ long red chillies1 lebanese cucumber,

peeled into ribbons 1 eschalot, thinly sliced2 tablespoons rice vinegar80ml (1/3 cup) peanut oil8 thin slices peeled ginger100g butter, choppedCoriander leaves, to serve

Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Add 2 tablespoons salt and cook half of the marrons for 3½ minutes (they will still be slightly undercooked). Refresh in a sink filled with iced water. Cool for 10 minutes, then drain. Repeat with remaining marrons. B

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16 kalamata olives, pitted2 tablespoons pine nuts, roasted200g baby spinach270g podded broad beans,

cooked, peeled

LAMB sAUCe1 tablespoon vegetable oil1 each carrot, onion, leek and

celery stalk, chopped into 1cm pieces

2 roma tomatoes, seeded, roughly chopped

500ml (2 cups) port1 litre beef or veal stock1 bay leaf6 flat-leaf parsley stalks10 black peppercorns80ml (1/3 cup) Bowles veal glace+

1 teaspoon chopped thyme leaves

For sauce, heat oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan over high heat, add all the vegetables and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 minutes or until carrot, onion and leek are golden. Stir in port, stock, herbs and peppercorns, and simmer gently for 30 minutes until reduced by half.

Strain sauce through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan. Add glace and simmer over high heat for 35 minutes or until syrupy. Remove from heat, stir in thyme and leave to infuse for 5 minutes. The sauce can be made a day ahead. Makes 250ml (1 cup).

For marinade, using a pestle and mortar, pound garlic, herbs, 2 teaspoons sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to a fine paste, then stir in oil.

Place a piece of lamb, fat-side down, on a board, with the loin (still attached to the belly) closest to you. Spread half the herb paste over meat, roll up tightly and secure at 2cm intervals with kitchen string. Repeat with remaining lamb and paste, then refrigerate overnight.

The next day, preheat oven to 180°C. Heat a large frying pan or barbecue flat plate to medium–high. Season lamb, brush with a little oil, then sear for 6 minutes each side. Transfer to a large oven tray. Wrap eschalots in foil, place on the tray with lamb and roast for 40 minutes (or until internal temperature of lamb reaches 65°C on a meat thermometer), turning lamb over halfway. Remove eschalots from tray, then loosely cover lamb with foil and rest for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, remove eschalots from foil, peel and cut in half. Heat butter in a frying pan over medium heat, add eschalots, olives, pine nuts, spinach and broad beans, and season. Increase heat to high and toss for 3–5 minutes or until spinach has wilted.

Place lamb sauce in a small pan and gently warm through over medium heat.

To serve, carve lamb into 2cm-thick slices. Divide spinach mixture among plates, top each with 3 slices of lamb and spoon over a little sauce.+ Ask your butcher to cut the boned saddle (5kg) in half down the middle, then to trim the flaps to 20cm, remove sinew or excess fat and tenderise the belly part using a meat mallet. The trimmed weight will be about 3.25kg. For produce notes, see right. Bowles Veal Glace is available from selected butchers and delicatessens.

MArINATeD BerrIes WITH KANGArOO IsLAND HONeY CreAM AND TOAsTeD sPONGe

250g strawberries, hulled, halved 150ml Cointreau2 tablespoons caster sugar190g round unfilled sponge cake icing sugar, to dust120g blueberries110g raspberriesMint leaves, to serve

HONeY CreAM2 egg yolks2 tablespoons Kangaroo island Honey+

2 tablespoons caster sugar 60ml (¼ cup) Chain of Ponds island

Sting liqueur+ or Cointreau60g (¼ cup) mascarpone180ml (¾ cup) thickened cream

Preheat oven to 170̊ C. For marinated berries, combine strawberries, liqueur and sugar in a bowl, then leave to mascerate for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut sponge in half widthwise, then horizontally into slices 1.5cm thick. Cut each slice into 3cm pieces. Place on a lightly greased oven tray and dust lightly with icing sugar. Bake for 10 minutes until golden. Cool.

For honey cream, whisk egg yolks and honey together in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, for 8 minutes or until thick and tripled in volume. Add liqueur and whisk for a further 6 minutes or until thick. Cool.

Meanwhile, using an electric mixer, whisk mascarpone and cream to stiff peaks, then fold through the egg-yolk mixture (sabayon).

To serve, divide honey cream among 8 x 310ml (1¼-cup) glasses and top with 2 sponge ‘croûtons’. Add remaining berries to strawberries and spoon over sponge. Repeat layering with remaining sponge and berries. Spoon over berry juices and scatter with mint leaves. + For details on honey, see produce notes, right. Chain of Ponds Island Sting is a honey-flavoured spiced liqueur. Stockists, (08) 8389 1901. With thanks to South australian tourism for its assistance. Details, southaustralia.com.

produce notesIsLAND PUre sHeeP’s MILK FeTA made by Island Pure Sheep Dairy, is South Australia’s first sheep dairy and cheese factory. (08) 8553 9110.KANGArOO IsLAND OLIve OIL produces oils from plantation olive trees at Stokes bay as well as from the island’s many naturalised feral trees. (08) 8559 2284. KANGArOO IsLAND ABALONe is farmed in pristine Smith bay and exported worldwide. Nitrogen-freezing the abalone in the shell ensures exceptional quality. (08) 8553 5322. ANDerMeL MArrON supplies freshwater marrons year-round. The marrons are hand-selected and delivered live. (08) 8559 4128. AUsTrALIAN CAPers are grown along the murray River. Available in four sizes, they have a fruity flavour and a crunchy bite. (08) 7200 0477. GOOD IsLAND sAMPHIre, available fresh or pickled, grows wild in the salt marsh areas of kangaroo Island. (08) 8553 8285. For more information on this product, see Appetite. sOUTHrOCK LAMB has a positive animal welfare philosophy. while not organic, the lambs are reared virtually chemical-free and minimally handled, which results in quality meat with excellent flavour. (08) 8553 1444.KANGArOO IsLAND HONeY by Island beehive is an intensely flavoured organic honey produced by Ligurian bees, of which the world’s only pure strain is endemic to kangaroo Island. (08) 8553 0080. for more on Kangaroo island produce, visit goodfoodkangarooisland.com.

andy and Kate gilfillan