4 Escape.com.au

Wildernessadventure

Vanessa Croll rises to the challenge of protecting the big cats of central Namibia and,despite staying in a luxury safari campsite, she isn’t afraid to get her hands dirty

TEAMEFFORT:The expeditionteamwith localschool students(left) after a tourof Ongos.

BY 9AM there is no escaping the heat.Whether we’re out in the four-wheel-drives checking box traps or trekkingthrough thorn bushes in the savannahcounting game animals, the heat is asconstant as our shadows.But it’s days like today that make all

the sweaty discomfort worthwhile.‘‘We’ve got one!We have a

leopard!’’ German volunteerKatrin says.I hear the highly anticipated news

through the two-way radio stashed inmy backpack.We’ve been hiking under the

searing sun across the Africansavannah for more than an hour. Theleopard paw prints we were so thrilledto have discovered twominutes earliernow seem insignificant.This is the most exciting news we’ve

had since arriving at our campsite onOngos Game Farm in Namibia, on thewest coast of southern Africa, eightdays earlier.

Our focus is now on the radio.Digging it out of my bag filled withsnacks, water, measuring tools,sunscreen and a hopefully superfluousvenom extractor, I hold the radio up forthe group.We listen eagerly forinstructions from our expedition leader.After days of hoping, we are going

to have a face-to-face encounter withone of the creatures we came to study.We’re not biologists, though, and

not exactly tourists, either. We’vesigned up as volunteers for a two-weekresearch expedition with eco-tourismorganisation Biosphere Expeditions.Our mission is to assist two scientistswho study leopards, cheetahs, caracalsand brown hyenas to gain a betterunderstanding of their habitat.Biosphere runs expeditions around

the world, offering a working solutionfor conservation researchers who areshort on funds andmanpower and laypeople seeking a wilderness adventurewith a difference.Our home for the two weeks in

November was a well-establishedcampsite, complete with luxury safaritents, nestled beside a beautifulriverbed that runs throughOngos.The property covers 10,000ha ofhighland savannah, undulatingmountains and fossil rivers.The river near the camp runs bare,

exposing pearly white rock bedsduring the dry season, which proves tobe a bonus for us. One night afterdinner we’re drawn to the riverbed bystrange animal noises and the soundof crunching rocks. Much to ourdelight, we discover a group of giraffeshaving a late-night snack.Experiences like these are a bonus

during our expedition, which is the BigCat Conundrum – the challenge ofprotecting leopards, cheetahs andcaracals in the Khomas Hochland ofcentral Namibia.

With more than 40 per cent ofNamibia consisting of commercialgame and cattle farms, pressure is onland owners to keep properties stockedwith a variety of animals, including twohand-reared white rhinos.Buying these animals comes at a

cost and when a sable antelope, forexample, will sell for between 200,000and 300,000Namibian dollars($A24,250 to $A36,370), manyranchers see it as their only option tokill the predators.The researchers we are assisting

face this human-animal conflictregularly. Only weeks before ourexpedition group arrived, a maleleopard was shot and killed by aneighbouring farmer. The animal hadpreviously been captured in one of thebox traps, just like the leopard wecaught, and fitted with a GPS satellitecollar to gather data on his habitat.

At the end of our expedition,information gathered will providegame and stock ranchers in centralNamibia with management advice andrecommendations for sustainableways for African wildlife and humanpopulations to co-exist.

The goal is for a 50,000ha reserve tobe established near Namibia’s capital ofWindhoek, 160km southeast of Ongos.

If the alarms don’t wake us before6am, the baboons screaming outsideour tents and birds happily welcomingthe sun ensure we’re up and ready forbreakfast at 7am. Savouring theremaining chill in the air from thenight before, we follow the smell offresh bread all the way to the maindining area and enjoy our mealtogether before heading off in groups.

I’m grouped with Polish-born72-year-old Ryszard and Americanschool-bus driver Lucia. Afterchecking our duties for the day, wepack our required data sheets andequipment and head off withNamibian tracker Jasaja. The othertwo groups take off in four-wheel-drives to check box traps and usetelemetry devices to find where threecollared leopards are hanging out.We’re on scats and tracks (poo and

paw prints) which, despite the nowscorching heat, bugs and thornybushes, is exhilarating.We’ve donethe theory to learn each predator’sdiet and appearance of their faeces, sofinding and identifying a fresh sampleis something to celebrate.On discovery of fresh predator poo,

we bag half of it, leaving the other halfas the animal’s territory marker, labelit and take it back to camp, where it

Volunteers Africa

active adventures on sale, up to 20% OFF*

Many more trips available in store

Call 1300 015 423Go to myadventurestore.comVisit in store at: Paddington | Newtown | Westfi eld Sydney CBD

*Travel restrictions & conditions apply. Prices are per person twin share, subject to availability, correct as at 26 Mar 2012 & subject to change without notice.

Airfare not included. Discount on selected trips, & travel dates. New bookings only. Sale ends 30 Apr 2012. See in store for details. NSW LIC. 3238685.

EverestBase Camp

15 days ex KathmanduStart Kathmandu, fly over spectacular

Mountain Peaks, trek to Everest Base Camp

OUR PRICE from $1089*

Inca TrailExpress

7 days ex CuzcoSacred Valley, Ollantaytambo ruins,

Inca Trail trek, Machu Picchu

OUR PRICE from $935*

ActiveThailand

12 days ex BangkokStart Bangkok, Hilltribe jungle trek,

Chiang Mai, Kanchanaburi / River Kwai

OUR PRICE from $1125*

ActiveMorocco

9 days ex MarrakechBike the High Atlas Mountains, climb

Todra Gorge, explore Marrakech

OUR PRICE from $845*

CycleVietnam

15 days ex HanoiCycle through Mai Chau, Cuc Phuong

National Park, Hue, Hoi An, Dalat

OUR PRICE from $1420*

SabahClose Up

10 days ex Kota KinabaluSepilok Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre,

Kinabatangan River, Climb Mt Kinabalu

OUR PRICE from $1519*

SAVE $276 *

SAVE $285 *

SAVE $360 *

SAVE $191 *

SAVE $215 *

SAVE $235 *

Wide range ofworkto help improve lifeSarahNicholson

PreparationsSO, YOU’VE booked to doone of these volunteeringholidays. What next?Donna Lawrence hassome tips.

● Get your general fitnesslevels up by doing a coupleof walks every week.

● Gather the correctequipment, includingwalking boots, wet-weather gear, workgloves, safety shoesand overalls.

● Research thedestination and learnabout the culturalexpectations so you don’toffend anyone.

● Visit a doctor to get thenecessary vaccinationsandmedication youmightneedwhen you’re away.

● Do some fundraising forthe village, or get friendsto donate books andschool supplies forthe children.

IT SEEMS the options are endless –working with lion cubs in SouthAfrica or elephants in Sri Lanka;building homes for disadvantagedfamilies in Swaziland or Costa Rica;constructing a school in Cambodia;teaching English in Nepal orZanzibar; getting clean water to avillage in Peru; doing conservationprojects in Arnhem Land or theGalapagos Islands.

If you’re keen to spend your nextholiday volunteering on a project athome or in some far-off land,there’s an organisation ready tomake it happen, with companiessuch asWorld Expeditions, i-to-i,Conservation Volunteers Australiaand G Adventures offeringtrips that mix a little work with a lotof adventure.

Donna Lawrence is theresponsible travel manager atWorldExpeditions – she’s one of thepeople charged with locating andmanaging charitable projects forintrepid travellers to work on – andsays that while voluntourism hasbeen around for a decade it’s ‘‘reallytaken off’’ in the past five years.

‘‘It started to happen around thetime of the (2004) tsunami,’’Lawrence says. ‘‘We had a lot oftravellers coming to us saying theywanted to do more than sponsor achild or donate money, they wantedto use their holidays to go andactually help, and while it wasn’tpractical to take groups into placeswhere natural disasters hadhappened, we found there weredestinations we could go to domeaningful community work.’’She says that while there is

always interest from the youngergenerations, ‘‘travellers who wantto get more out of their travelexperiences than just backpackingthrough a place’’, there isincreasing curiosity from parentskeen to take teenagers away toexpose them to other ways of life.

‘‘We also have a large portion ofmore mature travellers, people whohave already done a bit of trekkingand spent time travelling indeveloping nations, who havedecided their time to do somethinghas come now they’ve retired.’’Community Project Travel is

World Expeditions’ not-for-profitwing that manages thevoluntourism itineraries, and since

the programwas launched in 2005,the company has sent travellers tohelp on 37 humanitarian andconservation missions, with thebulk of work done in Nepal, Peruand remote parts of Australia.

The charitable endeavours willcontinue in 2012 with theWorldExpeditions’ responsible travelmanager lining upmore projectsin Nepal, Peru and Australia, aswell as Tanzania, Kenya, Vietnamand Cambodia.

‘‘We run as a not-for-profit sothe project part of a trip iscompletely self-funded,’’ Lawrencesays. ‘‘While 60 per cent of theprojects tend to be education based– installing water tanks at a school,painting walls in classrooms orbuilding desks – everything is doneat a grassroots level becausesomething that seems so small andinsignificant to us makes a hugeimpact on the locals.

‘‘For example, we have beenworking on amedical clinic in

Nepal for three years, with fourgroups of our volunteers going inthere during that time, and we’rebuilding a medical centre thatserves hundreds of people from lotsof surrounding villages.

‘‘The project itself takes three orfour days, and we spend anotherthree or four days trekking into thevillage, and we need at least eightpeople to make the project viablein terms of the workforce but cantake as many as 16 volunteers intothat community.

‘‘I make sure all the preparationshave been done before the grouparrives, I get the building materialsto the location and employ localswith specific skills like electricians,and once the volunteers arrive theyget a briefing then spend the nextfew days doing some hard yakkaalongside the local people.

‘‘There’s a big celebration withthe villagers at the end of the job,then the travel aspect continueswith the volunteers seeing a bitmore of the destination, but we findthe most value aspect is getting aninsight into the daily life of theNepalese because the experience islike a cultural exchange.’’

Not everyWorld Expeditionsitinerary involves a longinternational flight, with theArnhem LandMarine RescueProject – one of the company’smost popular voluntourismjourneys – established to help cleanthe region’s remote beaches, whilethe volunteers live with the Yolngupeople, who are the traditionalcustodians of the land.

During the seven-day itinerary,which includes six nights camping inthis isolated part of northernAustralia, volunteers roam the beachremoving fishing net, plastic bottlesand other rubbish that’s washed upon the sand, as well as spending timewith the local Aborigines gatheringfood, listening to stories and learningabout the culture.

With somany organisationsoffering voluntourismopportunities, there is somethingfor everyone, but Lawrence saysthose considering aWorldExpeditions trip should have anopenmind and want to do morethan sit on the beach sippingcocktails during their next vacation.

‘‘You need to have anadventurous spirit and not need thecomforts of home,’’ she says.

‘‘You also need a good level ofgeneral fitness. It’s not always easywork we’re doing on these projectsand the activities could range fromlugging bricks to painting. The workdoes vary from one project to thenext but youmust be willing to putin some hard work.’’

5Escape.com.au

GAMEON:(clockwise frommain) Namibiantracker Jasajagreetswhiterhinos; Ryszardsearches for asignal fromcollared leopards;volunteers gathersamples; andElago sleeps.Pictures: Vanessa

Croll

awaits transportation to the Universityof Bonn in Germany. Researchers willthen identify what the animals prefer toeat and study their genetic make-up tolearn more about reproductivehormones and stress-level indicators.From day one it was drilled into us

to not expect to see any of thepredators we came to study. So youcan understand our excitement onlearning we have captured a leopard ina box trap.

As Ongos owner and veterinarian Ulfapproaches the trapped leopard with atranquiliser gun, the animal produces anunbelievable rumbling roar. After he issafely sedated, the volunteers spring intoaction and help carry the youngmaleleopard to rest him on the back of ourfour-wheel-drive.Blood samples, measurements and

photos are taken but unfortunately weare unable to collar this leopard.He is too young, about two years old,

and at 40kg, still has a lot of growing todo so it’s back into the box trap forhim to sleep off his sedation beforebeing released.We decide to call the leopard Elago,

which means lucky in Oshivambo, oneof the local languages.The next morning we’re back at the

box trap for Elago’s release. Safelybarricaded in our vehicles with thewindows wound up, the gates are pulledup and Elago is gone, up a steep hill intwo powerful bounds.Reflection is plentiful on the last day

of my tremendous adventure. Whilepicking the countless thorns from thesoles of my hiking boots, it dawns onme that I have just had the mostrewarding, challenging andadventurous experience of my life.

BiosphereExpeditions is amulti-award-winningnot-for-profitconservationorganisationofferinghands-onwildlifevolunteerexpeditionsasanadventurewithapurpose foreveryoneandaroundtheglobe. It offers thecatproject inNamibia, a turtleproject inWA,divingexpeditions inMalaysia, theMaldives,OmanandHondurasandawhaleproject in theAzores.Seebiosphere-expeditions.orgor ph1800 708 261.

qantas.com/victoria

Experience Victoria

Call 1300 510 038 MON-FRI 8:30AM-9PM & SAT 9:00AM-5PM AEDT

≥ Travellers Choice 1300 78 78 58 ≥ Travelworld 13 14 35 ≥ Harvey World Travel 13 27 57 ≥ Travelscene American Express 13 TRAVEL (13 8728) ≥ Jetset Travel 1300 JETSET

QANTAS FREQUENT FLYERS CAN EARN 1 POINT^ FOR EVERY $1 SPENT ON THESE PACKAGES

WHEN COMBINED WITH A QANTAS AIRFARE.

MELBOURNE • 3 nights accommodation at the Crown Metropol <

in a Spa Wellness Suite, upgraded from a Luxe room• FREE 60 minute aromatherapy massage• FREE 30 minutes Spa Time• 4 course set dinner menu at Mr Hive’s Kitchen & Bar~

ADD Europcar compact auto car rental from $65# per day

Travel 15 Apr – 31 Aug 12 from$592†

per person twin share

YARRA VALLEY • 3 nights accommodation at the Yering Gorge Cottages

in a 1 Bedroom Cottage• FREE breakfast basket dailyADD Europcar compact auto car rental from $65# per day

Travel 15 Apr – 31 Aug 12 from$391†

per person twin share

OFFER ENDS 14 MAY 12, UNLESS SOLD OUT PRIOR. AVAILABILITY IS LIMITED.

†Agents may charge service fees and/or fees for card payments which vary. If you book with Qantas Holidays an additional 2% fee applies to credit payments. Prices are correct as at 10 Apr 12 but may fluctuate if surcharges, fees, taxes or currency changes. Amounts payable to third

parties not included. Prices are subject to availability, and based per person twin share. Please check all prices, availability and other information online before booking. Prices and packages quoted refer to the cheapest available hotel packages. These property ratings are Qantas Holidays’

and not official ratings. Hotel cancellation policies apply, which vary. <Crown Metropol: Higher rates apply Saturday night. ~Set menu is food only & does not include beverages. #Car hire valid 01 May – 30 June 12. Car Hire is based on minimum 3 days car rental in a Europcar compact

auto with Airport pick up and drop off. Offer is subject to vehicle availability. Minimum renter age without surcharge is 25 years. Drivers aged 21-24 years may be eligible to rent subject to an age surcharge. Age surcharge is $30.25 + GST per day. Rentals are subject to the Terms and

Conditions of Europcar rental agreement and the Europcar standard driver and credit qualifications. Rental days are based on a 24 hour period. You must be a member of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program to earn and redeem points. A joining fee may apply. Membership and points

are subject to the terms and conditions of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program terms and conditions. Bookings must be made direct with Qantas Holidays or via a travel agent. Qantas Holidays General Booking Conditions apply. Qantas Holidays Limited ABN 24 003 836 459.

Licence No. NSW - 2TA 003 004. QHO1084_NSW_ST

Unwind with a luxury spa escape in Melbourne, or drive to the beautiful Yarra Valley. Less than an hour from Melbourne and with car hire available from just $65# per day,

the Yarra Valley offers cool-climate wines and superb restaurants to indulge at.