Nagazasshi 7.4

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¥0 Kyudo | Huis Ten Bosch | Kazuo Ishiguro | Kumamoto nagazasshi of Nagasaki Christians The

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Our first issue of the new year brings you tidings of Nagasaki's hidden Christians, the martial art kyudo, how Europe and Japan have converged at Huis Ten Bosch, the British author Kazuo Ishiguro, and a Kumamoto travel itinerary.

Transcript of Nagazasshi 7.4

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Kyudo | Huis Ten Bosch | Kazuo Ishiguro | Kumamoto

nagazasshiHidden

of Nagasaki

Christians The

nagazasshi

Editor-in-chiefAndrew Massey

EditorsRosie Fordham

Katy Squicciarini

Layout and DesignLaurel Williams

Contributors

www.nagazasshi.com

Volume 7 Issue 4January/February 2015

Cover photo:Oura Catholic Church, Nagasaki

By Priscilla Westra

Copy EditorDoug Bonham

FoundersAndrew Morris

Matthew Nelson

TreasurerKarl Po

I ’ve always found winter to be a contem-plative season. Those sedentary mo-ments spent shivering under sweaters

can provide plenty of time for introspection. While New Year’s resolutions are a good way to look forward, we should also make time to reflect. After all, knowing where to go is impossible without remembering where you’ve been.

To jog our collective memory, this issue will take a look at Nagasaki’s past and focus on its history of foreign influence. Our feature is on Hidden Christians (p. 10), Nagasaki Notables is on a locally born British author (p. 15), and there’s even an article on the beloved European theme park, Huis Ten Bosch (p. 13).

Nagasaki is an international city. That state-ment seems obvious. The impact that trad-ers and missionaries have had on the local culture can be seen everywhere, and events like the Lantern Festival really illuminate that fact. Chinatown, Dejima, and the numerous churches here are testaments to that cultural legacy. As an expat, I can walk through Nagasaki and not be met with pub-lic bewilderment, suspicion, or fear, because most people here are used to seeing foreign-ers around. It’s a familiarity that is easily forgotten about, and one I’m constantly reminding myself to be thankful for.

We must also remember to be thankful for all those who help make to this magazine a reality. Your support means the world to us. Thank you.

Happy reading!

Andrew Massey,Editor-in-chief

Doug BonhamRosie Fordham

Amy GiffordKarl Po

Niel Thompson

Christina SamurkasKaty SquicciariniStuart WebsterPriscilla WestraLaurel Williams

Assistant EditorNiel Thompson

ContentsEvents

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My Two YenCheck out some staff recs in drama and anime

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Nagasaki Notables: Kazuo Ishiguro

The long, fascinating history of Christianity in Nagasaki Japan’s Hidden Christians

Learn about this Nagasaki-born British author

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The Charming Contradictions of Huis Ten BoschExplore how foreign and Japanese culture blend in HTB

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7Our series concludes with its sixth installmentJapanese Martial Arts: Kyudo

19Kanji of the Month

17Weekends with KarlOur new travel series sets off in Kumamoto

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Photo credits (counter-clockwise from top): Kyudo targets Laurel Williams;Kazuo Ishiguro flickr.com/tulsalibrary; An illuminated windmill at Huis Ten

Bosch Doug Bonham; Horse croquettes from Kumamoto Karl Po

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EventsAsaichi Zenzai-kaiJanuary 10th, SaseboThe Asaichi morning market in the Yorozucho municipal parking lot is an everyday event, but every year on Janu-ary 10th, they dish out 2,000 portions of sake and zenzai, which consists mainly

of boiled down azuki beans. It’s free too! Starts bright and early at 6am! Annual Hetomato FestivalJanuary 16th – Goto (Sakiyama)This is easily one of Nagasaki’s most memorable festivals. At Hetomato,

Event of the MonthNagasaki Lantern FestivalJanuary 31st – February 14th Throughout Nagasaki City

People come from all over the country to see thisquintessential Nagasaki festival. The first two weeks in

February are filled with food, fun, and wonderfullystrange displays and stage performances. See every-thing from Chinese acrobatics and lion dancing tocandlelit pig heads. The lanterns are pretty neat,

too. This bright and colorful celebration ofthe history of foreign culture in Japan

is not one to be missed!

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you’ll find a variety of enigmatic events, including but not limited to: sumo, a muddy tug-of-war, kimono-garbed street-badminton, and women being put in a giant shoe that is then tossed up into the air. Not only that, all male participants must don the ultra-traditional fundoshi loincloth. A cheeky good time, to be sure.

Annual Nomozaki Narcissus FestivalMid January – Early FebruarySuisen Satokoen, Nagasaki CityIf you head to the Nagasaki seaside park around mid January, you can experience the splendor of 10 million daffodils in full bloom as you take in the beautiful view of the oceans surrounding Nomozaki and the famous Gunkanjima.

Hikari-no-HanabouroThroughout February, UnzenDuring February, the streets and side-walk trees of this charming onsen town are decorated with lights that mimic the hoarfrost that would form in days past. There are fireworks displays held every Saturday night from 9:30pm to add to the Unzen winter magic.

Kawachi-Touge Pass field burningFirst Sunday of February, HiradoWhether you’re feeling a little chilly or wanting to stoke your inner pyromaniac, this event should have something to offer you. Every year, about 30 hectares of the largest grass fields in Saikai National Park

are set ablaze, offering a sight that, if not heart-warming, is at least hand-warming. If you’ve ever just wanted to see the world burn, this could be up your alley.

Konaki Crybaby SumoFebruary 3rd, HiradoHirado may be well known for its kujira, but wailing of a different nature can be seen (and heard) in early February. The annual Konaki-zumo festival pits two infant-wielding sumo wrestlers against one another. The first baby to cry is declared the winner. If you haven’t visited Hirado before, this adorable tournament is a great excuse to do so.

Goto Camellia FestivalFrom mid February, Goto CityCamellias are in bloom on Goto; their sweet scents dance redolent on the winds. Goto’s camellias, and especially its camel-lia oil, are renowned for their world-class quality and can be found in a number of high-end cosmetic products. Get yours straight from the source this February!

99 Island Oyster FestivalsWeekends/Holidays in FebruaryGet out of your shell and hit the road. Destination: Oyster city. Tuck in for some smoky, savory seafood goodness all month long at the Saikai Pearl Sea Resort. These could quite possibly be the freshest oysters you will ever encounter.

Know of an upcoming event you’d like us to feature? Let us know at:

[email protected]!

My Two Yen... Drama

Katy here! Following in the vein of foreign influences, why not check out the first Japanese drama that actually stars a foreign actress!

The Japanese television drama scene is a thriving community that has catapulted many a star to fame. Without fail, the most looked-forward-to drama each year is the NHK asadora which airs every morning over a span of six months. This is particularly true of the most recent one, Massan, which covers the true story of the first Japanese whiskey producer and his marriage to a Scottish woman in the early 20th century.

The normally ethnically homogenous Japanese drama-verse was shocked by the casting of American actress Charlotte

Kate Fox, whose Japa-nese skill and cultural knowledge is just as lacking as those of the character she plays. But the drama has so far been well received, and its layered attention to the difficulties of international and inter-racial marriage in Japan is complex and riveting.

Massan is scheduled to have 150 episodes, has been airing every morning since Sept-ember 29th, and will run until March 28th on NHK. If you’re interested, you should definitely check it out!

Image Credits: Massan poster NHK8 www.nhk.or.jp/massan

ficult for him but he soon befriends Naru, a seven year old girl, who uses his house as a secret base. Soon the two of them have adventures with the other colorful charac-ters that populate the town. These experi-ences give Handa valuable life lessons that improve him as a person and bring Handa closer to creating his own original style of calligraphy.

If you’re in the mood for a wacky yet sincere show about a man from the city learning to live in and love the country, then Baraka-mon may just be for you.

Image Credits: Barakamon poster SatsukiYoshino and Kinema Citrus Co., Ltd

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Anime

Niel here with another anime recommenda-tion. This month I’ll be talking about a show set in Nagasaki’s very own Goto islands: Barakamon (ばらかもん).

Handa is a talented young calligrapher. During an exhibition, an old curator criticiz-es Handa’s work and receives a punch to the face in response. Because of this, his father forces him to move from Tokyo to the small island of Goto.

Handa’s conflicts in the show come from having to adjust to country living. At first things are very dif-

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Mōikai,” my sensei growls with certainty. “One more time.”

I grab my last two arrows, glancing at the dojo’s sole clock as I go, before starting the eight steps of shooting (hassetsu) again. I suspect another “mōikai” is in my immedi-ate future before practice ends at 10. I am not disappointed.

I have been practic-ing kyudo (弓道), or “The Way of the Bow,” since 2012. When asked to explain kyudo to folks back home, who understand archery through Western preconceptions like deer hunting or The Hunger Games, I often describe it as the yoga of Japanese martial arts.

Similar to yoga, emphasis is placed on good form, measured breathing, and

achieving a clear mind. By mastering these aspects of kyudo, hitting the target should prove inevitable.

Hitting the target is seen as the culmina-tion of a kyudojin’s, or a practitioner of modern kyudo’s, attempt to achieve Shin Zen Bi (真善美). Shin Zen Bi, Truth, Good-

ness, and Beauty, is kyudo’s philosophy, one that kyudojin strive for both in the kyudojo, and in life. This philosophy, like

kyudo itself, is relatively new in Japan’s long history of archery.

It was during the pre-historical Yayoi pe-riod that yumi (long bows) were first seen in Japan. The Jomon people, Japan’s earli-est inhabitants, used them for hunting. From there, archery became a common

Laurel Williams explains the history and practice of the ancient art of kyudo.

Shin Zen Bi, Truth, Goodness, and Beauty, is kyudo’s philosophy“

Kyudo

photos courtesy of Laurel Williams

J a p a n e s e M a r t i a l A r t s :

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became an art, a means for practitioners to better their minds and bodies.From kyujutsu, kyudo was born. The International Kyudo Federation notes that, today, kyudo can be found in over 40 countries.

While different branches of kyudo prac-tice exist, the clothes worn and equip-ment used are relatively uniform. Most practitioners don a white keikogi, a black hakama (available in trouser or skirt), an obi, and white tabi socks. The keikogi is sometimes exchanged for a kimono for special events and exams.

The basic equipment includes the yumi, tsuru (string), a right-handed yugake (glove), a cloth shitagake (underglove), and ya (arrows). The yugake may be three, four, or five-fingered depending on the style of shooting. Women may opt to use a muneate (chest plate) to protect them-selves from being hit by the tsuru.

feature of the royal courts and the privi-leged class, reserved for entertainment, ceremonies, and war.

Archery was refined into kyujutsu (弓術), “The Art of Archery,” thanks to the efforts and needs of the samurai class in feudal Japan. In addition, a number of schools (ryu) specializing in various kyujutsu were created. Of these, the teachings of Heki Danjo Masatsugu proved especially influential.

Heki (1443-1502) was a renowned archer who founded the Heki Ryu of kyujutsu, a school that maintains branches to this day. He is considered to have solidified the practices and traditions of kyujutsu, which became the basis of kyudo.

The yumi was rendered obsolete after fire-arms, initially brought to Japan in 1543, were discovered to be more effective in battle. From this point on, kyujutsu truly

For those interested in kyudo, it isn’t hard to find a local dojo in Na-gasaki. Some even offer classes for a fee. Classes are typically 1 – 2 times a week and span a few months.

For others, you might be lucky enough to be taken in by a dojo as several friends and I were. If you go this route, however, be prepared for the long haul. For months, I prac-ticed the hassetsu, going through the motions over and over before graduating to a rubber band rope in lieu of a bow.

These practices were sometimes tiresome, but after months of training, there came a moment when I finally saw one of my arrows sail straight from my bow into the target. As my ears were rewarded with that clear “pop” of my arrow piercing the target, I heard one of my sensei behind me congratulate me: “Good-o.” Then, “Mōikai.” n

Archery was re-fined into kyujutsu(弓術), “The Art of Ar-chery,” thanks to the efforts and needs of the samurai class in feudal Japan

This concludes our Japanese Martial Arts series. Thanks for reading!

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Take a stroll around downtown Nagasaki and you might spot something remarkably uncom-

mon in Japan: churches. Less than 1% of the Japanese population is Christian and yet Nagasaki prefecture is awash, rela-tively speaking, not only in churches, but also churchgoers. These churches range from Urakami Cathedral, once the largest church in all of East Asia, to the tiny, re-mote Nankoshi Church. Though dramati-cally varied, they all highlight the fervent and dedicated efforts of the faithful to protect their beliefs. Many of the churches (or their reconstructions) are historic and no longer hold mass or service, but there are many which still serve congregations,

not only in Nagasaki, but also in Omura, Sasebo, and Hirado. Where did these churches come from? What is the story of the people they once served?

The history of Christianity in Japan finds its birthplace in the Nagasaki port circa the second half of the 16th century. Francis Xavier, a Portuguese Catholic, came to Japan with the intention of starting a church. He struggled initially. There was a significant number of Indian Christians aboard the ship and given the fact that Goa, India was the trading base city of the Portuguese, the locals were under the impression that Christianity was from India. Xavier persevered, however, and his

Japan’s

Christians

Christina Samurkas gives us a brief look into the history and legacy of Christianity in Japan.

Hidden

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gawa shogunate dynasty, the tides turned against the Christians, who were seen as potential threats to the government, the state-supported religions of Shintoism

and Buddhism, and to the established social order. The efforts to encourage Westernization amongst converts raised suspicions that these new Christians were actually foreign agents. It wasn’t long

before the hand of the government turned into a fist.

Under the shogunate, Catholic Christians were actively persecuted and many were

effort was rewarded with a sizeable fol-lowing. The missionaries encouraged new Japanese Christians to take on ‘Christian names’ and adopt Western culture, a legacy that survived and has gone on to influence Nagasaki’s modern day mix of East and West.

When Xavier started his mission in 1549, the government of Oda Nobunaga supported both his conversion efforts and that of the Jesuits in what is now Kagoshima Prefecture. With the re-gime change from Nobunaga to Toyotomi Hideyoshi and eventually to the Toku-

The history of Christianity in Japan finds its birthplace in the Nagasaki port

photo Laurel Williams

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killed. The most famous were the 26 Martyrs of Japan, who were tortured and crucified outside Nagasaki in 1597. Al-though the repressions waned slightly dur-ing the rule of Tokugawa Ieyasu, who was interested in continuing trade with the Portuguese, a series of persecutions and public martyrdoms continued throughout the early 17th century. After the end of the Shimabara Rebellion, many Christians were forced to publically renounce their faith.

This mission to purge the remaining ‘hidden’ Christians was one origin of the Nagasaki Kunchi festival. What started as a harvest festival became a shrine festival when Suwa Shrine was founded in 1642. The shrine building was sponsored directly by the Tokugawa government, which felt the need to fill the religious and cultural vacuum left by the removal of the Christians, and encouraged the building of many new shrines and temples. During the Okunchi festival, a new custom of ‘garden showing’ (庭見せ) forced local residents to open their homes to public scrutiny so of-ficials could check for signs of non-Shinto or Buddhist religious activity.

To protect itself, the Japanese Catholic church went underground for the dura-tion of the Edo Period, and took numerous precautions to avoid detection. Figurines of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary were modified to resemble the Buddha or bodhisattvas, prayers were adapted to mimic Buddhist chants, and the Bible was transmitted orally to avoid written copies

being confiscated. Many worshipped in secret rooms in their homes, and after the government expelled the Catholic clergy in the 17th century, congregations became dependent on community leaders to carry out services.

While the initial fervour to hunt down the remaining Christians fell off considerably over the centuries, the threat of perse-cution was still alive well into the 19th century. In 1868 there was the “Crush-ing of Gotō”, when 200 Christians were imprisoned in a 12 tatami-mat room (ap-

proximately 10 m2). Unable to move, sit, or lie down for eight months, a

total of 42 members died within that period. It was another five years before the Meiji govern-ment banned Christian perse-cution altogether. Following this assurance of religious freedom, some 30,000 Chris-

tians revealed themselves, not only in Nagasaki but throughout

all of Japan.

Today, the Hidden Christians are com-memorated by the unique churches left behind as memorials to their faith, dedication, and tenacity. Though gone, their spirit lives on in their successors, the openly worshipping members of the Japa-nese Christian community. Their legacy can be seen not only in Nagasaki, but also in other areas of Kyushu, in major urban centers like Tokyo and Osaka, and on a tile at Himeji Castle. During the castle’s construction, the western gate was even adorned with the crest of the Kuroda fam-ily – a single Greek cross. n

photo Priscilla Westra

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Most of this edition of the Na-gazasshi has been devoted to foreign influences on Nagasaki

and Japan in general. However, as any expat can attest, sometimes foreign cultures can be misinterpreted and go wrong. Huis Ten Bosch is a beautiful example of this.

If you live in Nagasaki, then you have probably heard of Huis Ten Bosch. Located a few stations away from Sasebo on the JR Sasebo Line, Huis Ten Bosch is

the perfect place to experience firsthand how foreign and Japanese culture can blend in the most delightfully bizarre way. Though styled as a reproduction of an old Dutch town, Huis Ten Bosch is a contradiction from the moment you arrive. Its name can be translated into “House in the Forest” in English, yet when you arrive, a forest is the last thing noticeable. Instead, loud music blares at you from multiple different speakers — a mixture of typical theme-park songs and other “epic” movie soundtracks like Spiderman and even Edward Scissorhands.

Two clocks grace the towers of the state-ly brick buildings that greet you when you walk into the park, both of which are stuck at different times. One of my wiser

Katy Squicciarini talks about the inaccurate but fantastic Japanese interpretation of foreign culture in the Huis Ten Bosch amusement park.

The Charming Contradictions of Huis Ten Bosch

photo Stuart Webster

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A variety of restaurants are placed throughout the theme park, almost all of which are delicious. Korean food, frozen yogurt, cafes, hamburger restau-rants, even sausage shops litter the brick streets. However, most of this foreign-styled food has very Japanese-style traits. Pinocchio, the Italian restaurant, offers a wide variety of pizzas which include, a personal favorite, the bacon and potato pizza. Rumors abound that there is even an elusive pancake curry restaurant hidden away somewhere in the park.

One of my favorite experiences at Huis Ten Bosch again shows this contradict-ing balance of Japanese interpretations of the foreign. During the theme park’s month-long ‘Oktoberfest’ celebration, my friends and I were greeted upon entering with three Guinness beers (Irish) and churros (Spanish/French) by lederhosen-clad men (Austrian) who were singing salsa and tango music (South American) with accordions (Ger-man). It is moments like this that make the theme park so endearing.

While it may not be as authentically Dutch as it likes to advertise itself, Huis Ten Bosch is a delightfully fun, unique experience for anyone with a sense of humor. It has good food, fun rides, scary haunted houses, beautiful scenery, and a variety of other attractions that can entertain you for hours. While Japan doesn’t always get all of its foreign stereotypes right, the end result is still incredibly fun for all who choose to come here.

colleagues suggested it represented the time differences between Japan and the Netherlands. But upon closer examina-tion, neither of the clocks worked what-soever, ruling out that serendipitous possibility.

The scenery is, admittedly, stunning. However, the contradictions within the park continue the further you go in. For example, you have two options when walking through the park. One is to take a right towards the bouken, or adventure course, which involves a zip line, rock climbing, and even a massive animatronic dinosaur that roars at you as you walk by.

The other option is to go left down a beautiful, tulip-lined path adorned with pristine, Dutch-style wooden wind-mills. Along this road, you can stop at the cheese shop where authentic Dutch clothing, including the typical pointed wooden shoes, is available to try on. If you’re not interested in this, you can al-ways take a picture with the terrifyingly realistic wooden Dutch mannequins dotted throughout the store. n

Huis Ten Bosch is the perfect place to experience first-hand how foreign and Japanese culture can blend in the most delightfully bizarre way

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It seems appropriate that in a pre-fecture as internationally focused as Nagasaki, one of its most celebrated

writers is a product of not one, but two cul-tures. Kazuo Ishiguro is the author of six successful novels, in-cluding Never Let Me Go and The Remains of the Day. He has won or been short-listed for some of the most coveted literary awards in the English-speaking world, and was awarded an Order of the British Empire (OBE) in 1995. Born in Nagasaki City in 1954, Ishiguro has not lived in Japan since he was five years old, making Ishiguro a truly international author whose style can’t be confined to just one place.

Ishiguro’s family moved to Britain in 1960 so that his father could take a university research position. Though the family planned to return to Japan, they eventu-ally chose to stay in the UK. Ishiguro be-

lieves that his unique family situation strongly influenced the way he views himself and the world, and it shaped his writ-ing accordingly.

Ishiguro has written works set both in Japan and in Britain.

His first two novels, A Pale View of Hills, which deals with the aftermath of the Nagasaki bombing, and An Artist of the Floating World, are set in post war Japan. His later novels, particularly The Remains of the Day, are predominantly set in Europe.

Rosie Fordham gives us a brief

look into the life of internationally

renowned author, Kazuo Ishiguro.

“ Ishiguro believes that his unique familysituation strongly in-fluenced the way he views himself and the world, and it shaped his writing accordingly

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Rather than focusing on the geographi-cal location, Ishiguro’s novels often deal with themes of emotional repression, and feature characters who attempt to hide their pasts through obscure language. He told The New York Times that he sees the ‘’tendency to keep a calm surface, [and] the tendency toward understatement of feeling and emotion” to be something that both Japanese and British culture have in common.

However, Ishiguro doesn’t feel com-fortable calling his work, or himself, a certain percentage British or a certain percentage Japanese. In an interview with BOMB Magazine, he says that, “people are not two-thirds one thing and the remainder something else. Temperament, personality, or outlook don’t divide quite like that…You end up a funny homogeneous mixture.” In fact, Ishiguro stresses that his work has neither a British nor Japanese focus, but an international one. In his statement for the British Council, he says, “I am a writer who wishes to write international novels,” he says. “What is an ‘international’ novel? I believe it to be one, quite simply, that contains a vision of life that is of im-

Ishiguro’s novels often deal with themes of emotional repression, and feature characters who attempt to hide their pasts through obscure language

portance to people of varied backgrounds around the world.”

Ishiguro certainly seems to have succeeded in this goal, as his work resonates with both western readers and those in his birth country. Haruki Murakami, a writer with an equally strong international reputation, tells The Guardian that Ishiguro’s fiction has “a particular kind of sincere and tender quality… which happens to be familiar and natural to [Japanese people]” but that his writing transcends national origin. Murakami goes on to say that within Ishig-uro’s novels “the place could be anywhere, the character could be anybody and the time could be any time.” With his ability to cross borders through his fiction, Ishiguro is a writer that not only Nagasaki, but the world, can proudly claim as their own.

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Saturday

b Nagasaki Station g Kumamoto Stn. 07:40~11:06 (3,700 yen)

> Kumamoto Station g Aso Station 11:38~12:47 (1,110 yen) Special Rapid Odan 4

Z Asobi-Gokoro (2,000 yen/night) 8 http://www.aso.ne.jp/asobi-gokoro/ index.english.html

N Mt. Aso crater/surroundings (ropeway to the crater 1,200 yen)

" Rental car (2,500 yen/12 hours) OR b Bus 30-40 mins ride (650 yen)

Sunday

> Aso Station g Kumamoto Stn. 09:57~11:09 (1,110 yen) Special Rapid Odan 1

Z Nakashiyama Hostel (2,800 yen/night) 8 http://nakashimaya.ikidane.com/ eng.html

N Kumamoto Castle (500 yen) Suizenji Gardens (500 yen)

Monday

b Kumamoto Station g Nagasaki Stn. (last bus at 18:00)

Meet Karl Po, our treasurer and resident wayfarer. In our new series, Karl offers some travel advice on making the most out of a holiday weekend.

Projected Travel Costs:

For a three day weekend: ~20,000 yen + food and spending money

Potential Long Weekends:

Jan. 9 - 11, July 18 - 20, Sept. 19 - 23 (5 days), Oct. 10 - 12, Nov. 21 - 23

Karl’s Itinerary:Legend: b Bus | > Train | Z Stay | N Attraction | " Misc.

Weekendsw

ithKarl

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“Japanese” feel of the prefecture, with its quintessential rice paddies and open fields.

Photo credits & information:

Page 17 (clockwise): Aso Shrine en-trance, Kumamoto ramen, and Kum-amoto Castle Karl PoPage 18 (top): Mount Aso Karl Po

Hey folks! Kumamoto is a great place to visit for a three-day week-end. Easy and relatively cheap to

get to by train and bus, with many decently priced accommodations, it’s perfect for a short trip away from home!

You may be familiar with it for the famous Kumamon character, but this pre-fecture has far more to offer when sightseeing. With the magnificent Kumamoto Castle, bucolic Mount Aso and beautiful Suizenji Gardens, there’s something to interest all travelers. If you love delicacies, then definitely don’t miss out on the local specialty – horse croquettes, available at Aso Shrine. Kumamoto-style “garlic ramen” is also not to be missed; it uses a tonkotsu base and adds charred garlic oil to create ramen with a delicious, silky black finish, which is utterly satisfying.

Whether you choose to bus around the prefecture or rent a car, Kumamoto of-fers a huge variety of cultural, histori-cal, and natural sights. My personal favorite part of my three-day trip was just exploring the nature and sheer

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