my works in T-Qatar Issue 28 Nov/Dec 2014

8/10/2019 my works in T-Qatar Issue 28 Nov/Dec 2014

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20 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

Lookout Qatar34 Market Watch Form does not always follow function; these bags defy

all rules.

36 This and That

Printemps and a boys magical journey; Buccellati

makes a leap forward with rebranding initiatives;

Jaeger-LeCoultre returns to Abu Dhabi.

40 The Perspective

An exhibition by two expats titled Liquid Portraits

dives into complex issues with the fresh and

interesting perspective of outsiders.

42 On Fashion

Josep Font reimagines the revived Spanish label,

Delpozo but is consistent in his portrayal of the

Delpozo woman, intelligent, poised with a particular

way of relating to the world.

44 On Art

Mixed media artist Tareq Sayed Rajab de Montfort

cuts an interesting figure in his progressive,

sometimes controversial, body of work and trains of

thought.

47 On Heritage

At the Italian leather shoe brand Santoni, Giuseppe

Santoni and his master shoemaker, Silvano Sollini, tell

of the brands determination to pass on the trade to a

younger generation.

54 Artistic Pursuit

The Kayys, a home-grown brand, have portrayed

lifestyle imagery that was highly relatable to women

in the Gulf.

56 On Architecture

Crest, designed by architect of our time Zaha Hadid, is

a piece whose technical construction is dictated by its

impending moves across the globe.

Arena Qatar70 The Artist

Iranian artist Shirin Neshat touches on political

issues, social taboos and feminism, all in images that

are mesmerizing to the beholder, and almost as

intriguing as the artist herself.

74 The Creator

Filmmaker Mohamed Al Daradji focuses his lens on

war-ravaged Iraq and the untold stories echoing

across its plains.

Publisher & Editor In Chief

Yousuf Jassem Al Darwish

Chief Executive

Sandeep SehgalExecutive Vice President

Alpana Roy

Vice President

Ravi Raman

EDITORIAL

Editor

Sindhu Nair

Chief Fashion Correspondent

Debrina Aliyah

Senior Correspondents

Abigail MathiasAyswarya MurthyEzdihar Ibrahim Ali

ART

Senior Art Director

Venkat Reddy

Deputy Art Director

Hanan Abu Saiam

Assistant Art Director

Ayush Indrajith

Senior Graphic DesignerMaheshwar Reddy

Photography

Rob Altamirano

MARKETING AND SALES

Senior Manager Marketing

Frederick Alphonso

Manager Marketing

Sakala A. Debrass

Assistant Manager Marketing

Thomas JoseMathews Cherian

Media Consultants

Hassan RekkabLydia Youssef

AccountantPratap Chandran

Sr. Distribution Executive

Bikram Shrestha

Distribution Support

Arjun TimilsinaBhimal Rai

Basanta P

T, THE STYLE MAGAZINE

OF THE NEW YORK TIMES

Editor in ChiefDeborah Needleman

Creative Director

Patrick Li

Deputy Editor

Whitney Vargas

Fashion Director

Joe McKenna

Managing Editor

John Haskins

Photography Director

Nadia Vellam

THE NEW YORK TIMES

NEWS SERVICESGeneral Manager

Michael Greenspon

Vice President, Licensing and

Syndication

Alice Ting

Vice President, Executive Editor

The New York Times News

Service & Syndicate

Nancy Lee

LICENSED EDITIONS

Editorial Director

Josephine Schmidt

Coordinators

Gary CaesarJaisy De La Cruz

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COPYRIGHT INFO

T, The New York Times Style Magazine, and the T logo are trademarks of The New York Times Co., NY, NY, USA, and are used under license by Oryx Media, Qatar.Content reproduced from T, The New York Times Style Magazine, copyright The New York Times Co. and/or its contributors 2014 all rights reserved. The views andopinions expressed within T Qatar are not necessarily those of The New York Times Company or those of its contributors.

COURTESYOFTHEKA

YYS

The Kayys Resortcollection 2015

Page 54


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New It bags take onunpredictable shapes defying

form and function.

Shape Shifting

Market Report

Clockwise from top left: Perfume Bottle Clutch, Lanvin,QR9,392; Monster Baguette, Fendi, QR8,962;

Cinnamon Wood and Resin Clutch, Nathalie Trad, price onrequest; Braque Gun Sling Clutch, Saint Laurent by HediSlimane,QR4,273; Cabas Tote, Celine,price on request;

Joni Fringe Clutch, Michael Kors, QR3,259;Powder Pink Clutch, DSquared2,QR2,531;

Crushed Ice Hexagon Clutch, LAfshar,QR3,938.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

Lookout Qatar

CLOCKWISEFROMTOPLEFT:LANVIN,FENDI,NATHALIETRAD,SAINTL

AURENT,CELINE,MICHAELKORS,D'SQUARED2,L'AFSHAR

ALL PRICES ARE INDICATIVE


4/1040 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

Perhaps because of its melancholic winter weather and the

impending promise of a new year with revived resolutions,

Christmas is often depicted as a magical and festive time,

especially for the young. This holiday season, Printemps and

Burberry tell the story of a young boy who dreams of an

adventure crossing the English Channel from London to Paris by

floating through the night sky on a magical umbrella with his

beloved teddy bear. Dubbed The Magical Christmas Journey

the story is brought to life through the il lustrations of Tom

Haugomat, a Paris-based illustrator famed for his minimalist

works that invite different interpretations from his audience. The

piece brings together the silhouette of the Printemps store, the

skyline of London, the Burberry woman dressed in the houses

iconic trench coat, and the little boy floating over the Parisian

rooftops with his bear, narrating the story through the illustrators

perceptive eyes. The collaboration and concept work took more

than a year, says Frank Banchet, the artistic director of

Printemps. The boys magical journey becomes the central theme

for the department stores decor and artistic lead for the festive

season. The windows will, for the first time, feature an

interactive element to allow visitors to explore the Christmas

ambience, Banchet says. In homage to the fairy tale adventure,

Burberry also launched a special collection for Printemps based

on London icons. DEBRINA ALIYAH

Keeping With the Spiritof the Season

A Legacy of Jewels

The Regalia jewelry suite, inspired by imperial elegance and

comprising ethically-sourced Mozambican rubies set in platinum,

will be exclusively revealed at the Jewellery Arabia exhibition in

the Kingdom of Bahrain for the first time this year. Held under

the patronage of His Royal Highness Prince Khalifa bin Salman

Al Khalifa, the Prime Minister of Bahrain, the exhibition will takeplace at the Bahrain International Exhibition and Convention

Center from November 18-22, 2014. SINDHU NAIR

Faberg, the iconic artist jeweler, presents aone-of-a-kind rococo high jewelry egg pendantcrafted in 18-carat yellow gold, emeralds, rubies

and multicolored gemstones.

Tom Haugomats illustrationsshowcase the brands seasonal story.

COURTESYOFPRINTEMPS;COURTESYOFFABERGE;COURT

ESYOFBUCCELLATI;COURTESYOFJAEGERLEC

OULTRE

Lookout Qatar This and That

ALL PRICES ARE INDICATIVE


5/1041November-December 2014

After successful collaborations with the Shanghai and Venice Film Festivals, Swiss watch

brand Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to support the creativity of filmmakers from the Gulf

region in a four-year partnership, returning to Abu Dhabi for the eighth Abu Dhabi Film

Festival, held at the Emirates Palace from October 23 to November 1, 2014. Jaeger-LeCoultre

welcomed Carmen Chaplin, friend of the brand, as the guest of honor during the film

festival, one of the largest and most influential festivals dedicated to film in the

Middle East. Chaplin belongs to a long line of artists who have a particular kinshipwith the art of film; her grandfather was Charlie Chaplin, the renowned actor and

director of the silent film era. Carmen Chaplin followed in his footsteps as an

actress, director and writer. When they are made at a high level, watches are

like a form of art it takes so many people to make one watch, its kind of like

a film, I suppose, says Carmen.

When I went to the manufacture I was fascinated by the amount of people

involved and how everyone has a specific job that they do, just like on films

someone does the makeup, others do the hair and others the production,

and all of it together creates something beautiful when it works well. The

making of a watch truly does mirror the production of a film.

For the opening night of the festival, guests watched Emirati director AliMostafas new filmA to B. The occasion also saw the brand celebrate its iconic

Reverso, presenting a personalized Reverso watch to the winners of the Best

Actress and Best Actor of the Year awards in the narrative competition. REBECCA ANN

PROCTOR

A Crazy Love for Technique

Spending much of his childhood in the familys jewelry workshop, it was the

redolence of the technical process that sealed his love for all things gem

and metal. Luca, a third-generation member of revered Milanese jewelry

family the Buccellatis is passionately protective of the fiercely independent

legacy of his familys brand in a landscape increasingly dominated by

holding groups. I know people think that we are crazy. We are crazy,

Buccellati says, describing the lengthy and extensive work that the brand

pours into each individual piece, some jewelry pieces taking up to two years

to complete. The Buccellati boutique on Via Monte Napoleon is a Milanese

institution that has, for close to a century, represented the aristocratic

process of bespoke fine jewelry and refined silversmithing techniques. After

years of under-the-radar marketing efforts that have drafted the brand into

a sort of elite old-school club, Buccellati made a leap forward with

rebranding initiatives last February including the introduction of new

collections for a younger market. The artisanal detail and dedication

behind the pieces does not change, of course,Buccellati says. The atelier

is powered by about 65 craftsmen, many of whom, like the Buccellatis

themselves, have worked from generation to generation for the house.

They embody the values of our family. The honeycomb process and the

fur-like effect silverwork are all DNA of our designs which are drawn from

archival works of my grandfather and the artistic and cultural history of

Italy,he explains. Mario, Lucas grandfather, has a distinct design inluence

in the houses collection till today; one of its bestselling silver pieces is a

mirror frame by Mario that was drawn from the window of Milans Duomo.

Available at Ali Bin Ali, Royal Plaza, Doha.DEBRINA ALIYAH

The hypnotizing bouquet of solid goldbeing melted into liquid is one olfactory

experience of which Luca Buccellati swearstheres just nothing else like it.

The Art of Creation

FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT WWW.JAEGERLECOULTRE.COM

SHINING STARS:Buccellati enamelbracelet; bracelettulle and pinksapphire earrings.

From left: Sencha De Groot, Wonho Chung, LeaSfeir and a guest at the Abu Dhabi Film Festival;

Duomtre Quantime Lunaire.


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47November-December 2014

in 2011, was meant to herald a fresh start with a new creative

vision, but the artistic genius of the late designer lives on in

Fonts body of work. Out of respect, we did not want to change

what he had done but him and I, theres many similarities

between the two chapters, Font explains. Theres an uncanny

resemblance between the way Font works and Delpozos style:

the draping on mannequins, the emphasis on clear creative

inspiration, the consistent analysis in color and fabric, and the

quest to make perfect patterns to create the voluminoussilhouettes that are signature to the brand. The legacy is easily

recognized in the current collections: pieces with subtle yet

complex draping, patterns rich in geometric shapes, structured

pleats and richly-crafted lapels. This near-obsessive accent on

craftsmanship and the construction of every single piece finds a

parallel in haute couture work, giving rise to Delpozos new term

for what they do: prt--couture. It is hardly surprising, given

that Font was already a star at the Chambre Syndicale de la

Haute Couture prior to his move to Delpozo. The labels atelier

works with the vision of realizing couture craftsmanship in small

production quantities, instead of pursuing the exclusive one timeonly badge associated with haute couture. The collections

become available to more than one customer, and it is highly

relevant to the modern fashion landscape where women now

always look for something personal to set them apart, Font tells

us. Delicate fabrics like bobbinet tulle that are traditionally

reserved for haute couture are juxtaposed with modern technical

materials, meshing together the time-honored and the new.

Development into this new prt--couture niche also involves

exploring the emergence of a growing new market, an affluent

and design-conscious generation of women who are aficionadas

of unique aesthetics, a generation that is increasingly prevalentin the Middle East. Font has been consistent in his definition of

the Delpozo woman of intelligence, poise, and a particular way

of relating to the world. These elements accurately describe

some of his most supportive advocates from this region, the

likes of fashion influencers Deena Abdulaziz and Najla Maatouk.

In just three seasons the Arab market has surged to become one of

the biggest buyers of the label; the ss15 col lection will be available

in three multibrand boutiques in Qatar alone, including the

celebrated Per Lei Couture.

The Arabian woman has within her nature a constant search for

detail. Embellishment is relevant to the extent of how she dresses,

and we extend these elements in our pieces, Font explains. Delpozo

only has two flagship stores for now a brand new stateside

outpost in Miami and another on its home turf in Madrid. Thebusiness focus, however, is still on the clothes and the establishment

of the labels characteristic features. Each collection is an evolution

of the previous, Font muses. I feel that the future for fashion is to

bring back craftsmanship into fresh and modern designs.

ART IN COLORLooks from the labelsspring/summer 2015collection that drawonJosef Albers work.

Font has been consistent in his deinition of theDelpozo woman as havingintelligence, poise, and

a particular way of relating to the world.


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Section Sub Section


IN A PRISTINE WHITEWASHED LIVING ROOM,two ornately overdressed

girls share a laugh while indulging in servings of chocolate cake from a

lavishly scrumptious dessert spread. The setting, a familiar social ritual inthis part of the world, struck an instant chord with local girls, while the

deliberately decorative fashion choices quickly got questions popping:

Where can I get my hands on it? These campaign images made their

appearance on Instagram mid-2012, and rang in the debut of the label The

Kayys. The photographed Ramadan collection was a sell-out success, with

client-label communication all done via social media.

Fast forward to a hundred thousand followers and five col lections later, The

Kayys have now established stockists and far-reaching sales medium beyond

their initial online guerilla sales tactics. But the label remains an undeniable

case study in the power of social media not only to promote but to conduct

commercial transactions a unique approach that is widespread only in theGulf countries. It is, nonetheless, less simple than just uploading images and

waiting for the likes to pour in. The Kayys portrayed lifestyle imagery that

was highly relatable to women in the Gulf, and created appropriately

aspirational clothing to match these ideals. Every post is calculated and

produced. It is a very personal space to communicate what is inspiring us

and to express the vision of the brand, says one of the designers behind the

label, Hend Al Subaey. It was a lengthy process but was important to create

the exact image that we envisioned for the brand.

Designed by three Qatari sisters, Hend, Ghada and Maha, The Kayys

certainly have found the magic formula in capturing the spirit of the modern

Arab woman in their demi-couture offerings. The col lections illustratedifferent strong thematic messages, yet find parallels in their feminine and

visually attractive aesthetics. It sometimes feels as if the pieces were created

purely for the editorial experience, though the luxurious and comfortable

fabrics suggest otherwise. The coming together of three personalities into one

creative direction has

become the trademark for

the label. Each of us has an

input, which is why we

believe our clothing is

successful. Theres lots of

love and care intoassimilating three minds,

Hend says. Ghada bagged

the prestigious Young

Designer award as part of

The Kayys at the 2013 Qatar

Arab Woman Awards, while

Maha graduated from

Virginia Commonwealth

University Qatar last year

with a final collection that quickly caught the attention of local fashion

retailers. I like imperfections; I like the tension, and my designs walk the linebetween drama and discipline, Maha says of her creative vision.

Each piece from the collections is produced in the labels atelier in Doha,

with a dedicated focus on the hand-sewn crystal embell ishments that are

integral to the DNA of The Kayys. The demi-couture concept, though costly

MODERN ARABLeft: statement

sweater using ArabEnglish. Below:sketches of the Resort2015 collection.

The story of a home-grown brand,The Kayys, that captures the spirit

of the modern Arab woman.

The Power of Three

Artistic Pursuit

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

ALLIMAGESCOURTESYOFTHEKAYYS

Lookout Qatar


9/10

and challenging, allows for the sisters to ensure each piece is perfectly

executed and to cater to customization requests from clients. Quality

execution is key to enable us to compete internationally. Social media has

introduced us to the world beyond this region and we must show what Qatar

is made of, Hend explains. The mushrooming of influential multibrand

boutiques in the region, the likes of Symphony and DNA, has also helped The

Kayys gain ground with fans away as far as New York City; trend forecaster

Alyson Cafiero was recently spotted in the labels ensemble at the opening of

the Dance and Fashion Exhibition at the Fashion Institute of Technology

Museum. The community is very supportive; a lot of our sales come from

local girls who make it a point to wear regional designers, Hend says.

The Resort 2015 collection, which was previewed at DNA Doha a couple of

months back, finds its inspiration from the celestial elements of the universe

the sun, the moon and the stars, all noteworthy fodder for the embroidery

and embellishment work the label is known for. Primarily in pastel colors, the

garments evoke the luxe sportswear vibe and feature a

statement element of Arabic letters on key pieces.

Dream on, Dreamer.We phonetically spelled out this

phrase in Arabic to reflect a trend in the Gulf that we

call Arab English. Its a little something of our culture

that we wanted to inject into the collection, Hend says.

The stark contrast between modernity and tradition

comes into play again in the collection s campaign images featuring a model

with a neon wig zigzagging through an Old World gilded living space. It was

shot in the home of a friend whose family are big collectors of antiques, which

they have preserved impeccably, Hend says. The sisters then took the

collection to Paris, where they shot the pieces on models against iconic

landmarks in the city. The inclination for theatrical presentations to reinforce

the lifestyle image have served the label well; its spring/summer 2014 launch,

which presented live models as art installations, is still one of the most talked-

about events in Doha.

The success of the clothing line has prompted the introduction of jewelry

and accessories as part of their next seasons offerings. Via Instagram, black-

and-white teasers of geometric prints have begun to give fans a little taste of

whats to come. It is a two-way thing. We get to gauge what attracts the most

attention, and it is as important for us to listen as it is to create, Hend says.

The coming together of threepersonalities into one creative directionhas become the trademark for the label.

OFF THE RUNWAYThe labels Resort 2015collection was shot inthe home of a friendwho is an avid collectorof antiques. Far right:the sisters working inthe atelier.


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OVER THE POOL INthe center of the Victoria and Albert Museums

(V&As) John Madejski Garden, a translucent and almost invisible

structure reflects rays of sunlight on the opening day of the London

Design Festival 2014. Depending on ones perspective, the sight

could be considered reminiscent of a Hollywood movie depicting an

alien spaceship floating over the pond, the metal piece presenting a

stark contrast to the serene garden landscape of the landmarkmuseum building that is over a century old. In this sense the

structure, named Crest, has fulfilled the primary requirement of the

pivotal installation for the annual Festival to provide a talking

point to attract and engage visitors.

This is only the beginning of the journey for the installation, which

will ultimately find its permanent home surrounded by our Arabian

desert in Dubai. Crest, designed by an architect of our time Zaha

Hadid, is a piece whose technical construction is dictated by its

impending moves across the globe; its shape will also evolve with its

travels to come. It was designed with these specifics in mind, that it

needs to be taken apart and to be reassembled, so the process of

creating the piece is based on its journey, explains Melodie Leung,

the associate at Zaha Hadid Architects who is overseeing the project.

As with most of Hadids designs, the installation was an

experiment to test the limits of form and material and find a perfect

equilibrium. The curved structure came to life with the assembling of

two layers of 8mm pre-stressed solid aluminum. Through an

experiential collaboration between the architects and engineers on

the project, the key was to achieve a precise form with tension on the

surface of the shell structure with the thinnest possible layer of

metal. It was a new process for us, Leung explains. There were a

lot of testing and editing of many different versions before we

arrived at this. But theres still plans to continue further research on

this method. At the V&As pond, the large flat plate of metal was

lifted until it found its own self-supporting ideal shape the perfect

mechanical line that was intended in the research. Once over the

pond, Crest becomes an interaction tool between the sky on one side

and the rippling water on the other, or as Hadid puts it, a

compelling interplay with light and reflection.

Crest was commissioned with the intention that it will become the

centerpiece outdoor installation for the new ME Hotel Dubai that is

due to open its doors early in 2017. The hotel, a first for Zaha Hadids

firm in that it is handling both the exteriors and the interiors of the

building, also marks a new frontier for the Melia Hotels group in

establishing its new ME by Melialifestyle brand, which has recently

seen openings in London, Madrid, Mallorca and Ibiza. The Crest

signifies a connection between East and West, and what Hadid has

done is experimental and boundaries-pushing in terms of design,

something very pertinent to ME, says Tony Cortizas, the companys

vice-president of brands.

In Dubai the Crest will continue to explore the relationships

between the fluid and Cartesian, solid and void, surface and

structure inherent within the hotels design, Hadid explains. This

comes about, she says, in the contrasting philosophical elements

between the buildings exterior and interior, the vibrant lifestyle-

driven pulse of the ME brand with the sleek and serious lines of the

Opus building in Dubais business-driven Burj Khalifa district.

It is very stark, very binary and very solid on the outside,

explains Christos Passas, Associate Director of Zaha Hadid

Architects. But on the inside, it is everything that is between the

spectrums of black and white. What started as a project to design

buildings in the business district became a full- fledged constellation

of mixed-used functions, including offices and serviced residences as

well as the hotel. We wanted to take it forward with the Opus

building because it is a very efficient and interesting building in

itself, Passas says. Hadids design remit will extend to signature

furniture that is purpose-built or selected by the architect herself.

With a three-year timeline from now until Crest anchors down in

Dubai, there seems to be an exciting yet uncharted journey ahead

for the installation, both as a visual exhibit and in the continuous

evolution of the structure itself. You can always feel the structure

reacting if you touch or handle it, but it will always settle back into

that ideal form based on where the two ends land like a sheet of

paper, Leung explains. But theres endless possibilities to

experimenting with length and shapes. While Hadid herself

envisages the piece emerging from the fountain at the center of a

pool as part of the new hotel, the fluidity and engineering of the

installation may mean that it just finds its own shape and fate as it

settles in the eternal sunshine of Dubai.

From West to East inPerfect Equilibrium

A structure that irst came to life against the backdropof a historic red-brick London landmark will ind a new

incarnation in a modern Arab city as Zaha HadidsCrest journeys from West to East.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

On Design

PAPER THINCrestas the highlightpiece of the 2015London DesignFestival.

COURTESYOFZAHA

HADID

Lookout Qatar

my works in T-Qatar Issue 28 Nov/Dec 2014

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