MY TREASURY OF KUTCHWORK TUTORIALS 1

MY TREASURY OF KUTCHWORK TUTORIALS

Collected and compiled by

Maya Heath

India has an incredibly rich tradition of textile arts going back into prehistory. The subcontinent itself is rich in resources such as fibers like cotton and silk, as well as the raw materials for dyes and mordents. The Indus valley civilization, some of the oldest city structures ever excavated, gives us images of people wearing embellished clothing. Over the centuries, the mix of cultures and traditions has developed this into a lively art form that is still very much alive today. Marco Polo, about 1400 CE remarked that Indian embroidery was the most beautiful in the world. In the early 1600’s, Indian embroideries became highly valued luxury goods. However, time has not been kind to examples from these times. Climate and use has destroyed them all, leaving no extant examples earlier than the mid-1500’s. We can only imagine what these fabrics must have looked like, based on verbal tradition.

I recently made my own discovery of Indian embroideries by accident while pursuing other research. The more I looked, the more enchanted I became by the scope and possibilities of the techniques and the joyful use of color and pattern. I began collecting tutorials and archives. Then I began creating my own projects. Recently I was at a large gathering where many of my friends and associates saw me working on a large piece. When they expressed so much curiosity about what I was doing I promised to share what I had found. I want to make it very clear that what I have collected here is NOT MY OWN WORK. I am NOT claiming credit or authorship of ANY of these works. They are the work of a number of artists and bloggers who graciously have shared their craft with their readers. I am deeply grateful to these ladies who have patiently made picture tutorials and YouTube videos to teach others and share what they know. This collection is intended to put the sources I found into one place so that I can easily share them with my friends who showed so much interest. Wherever possible I have tried to included the names of authors and addresses of the websites. Where I have lost the information, my apologies to them. I also suggest taking time to explore these blogs at length. They are a wealth of embroidery and craft information shared by very generous talented people and well worth the time to enjoy.

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Table of Contents

Introduction & Terminology - 3

Interlaced Herringbone - 3

Single Line – Line of Diamonds - 16

Basic Border – Adding a Diamond

Basic Maltese Cross – 23

Double Maltese Cross - 32

Adding the Cross to a Border - 35

Pyramid Borders - 37

Fancy Crosses & Medallions - 83

Shisha – Adding Mirrors - 116

Basic Shisha Techinique - 116

Adding Shisha Mirrors with Chemanthi Stitch - 124

Kutchwork Holding Shisha Mirrors - 132

Other Stitches –

Fly Stitch – Chemanthi (Anklet) Stitch - 147

Herringbone Stitch - 150

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Introduction & Terminology -

Kutchwork is a general term used to describe embroidery that comes from northwest India – the states of Rajasthan, Gujarat and Kutch – and the Sindhi district of southern Pakistan. It is often seen in the embroideries of the nomadic peoples of this area but is also used by urban artisans to create beautiful intricate and highly sophisticated patterns on both clothing and household articles. It is a system of several stitches including (but not limited to) interlaced herringbone (also called Maltese cross stitch, and Sindhi stitch), closed herringbone, cretan stitch, fly stitch (chemanthi or anklet stitch). It often includes the use of small mirrors called shisha – also pieces of mica and beetles wings – set with an overlaced grid of stitches to hold them in place.

Interlaced Herringbone is a broad term used to describe a style of embroidery in which, first a framework is worked on the fabric and then a series of interlaces makes a woven pattern on top of the piece. It is seen in the fold embroidery of many times and cultures.

BASIC PATTERN – INTERLACED BLOCK

The basic building block of Kutchwork is the interlaced block. When you examine even the most intricate Maltese crosses and block borders, all these patterns can be seen to be assembled from simple single blocks and basic cross forms.

VIDEO TUTORIAL – Kachichhi Embroidery (Interlacing Stitch) -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vaof1pbxwT4

Lovely Life Kutchwork Tutorials by Jisha Madhu

http://jishamadhu.blogspot.in/2011/05/kutch-work-tutorials.html

Kutchwork Tutorial - The Basic Diamond

We are going to do the basic diamond in kutch work. Fix the fabric in the embroidery frame. Thread the needle.

STEP 1 - OUTLININGPoints to remember

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1. Always keep the thread under the needle while outlining the basic

diamond.2. Rotate the frame during each step

to make outline stitching more comfortable.

Bring up the needle at 1. Insert at 2 and bring it up at 3.

While outlining the basic diamond, always keep the thread under the needle,

as shown in the picture. (First side is formed)

Notice that I rotated the frame before doing the next step.

Hold the frame and needle in such a manner that the needle eye is pointing

towards you.Insert at 4 and bring it up at 5, again keeping the thread under the needle.

(Second side of the motif)

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Insert the needle at 6 and bring it up at 7. (The frame is rotated and needle

under the thread) (Third side of the motif is formed)

Insert the needle at 8 and pull it down.

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The outline is formed now.

STEP 2 - INTERLACINGPoints to remember

1. The thread always moves in a 'U' pattern.2. Interlacing is done in an OVER-UNDER-OVER-UNDER manner.3. Unless at the beginning and end, never pierce the fabric.4. Do not tighten the interlacing thread too much.

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Now the weaving or interlacing begins.Bring up the needle at the outer corner of the first intersection.While interlacing, the thread always moves in a 'U' manner. If you keep this point in mind, you can easily determine where the thread is to be passed in the next step.

The working thread is taken OVER the underlying thread. Pass the needle under the thread (ie; 1-2).Care should be taken not to pluck the fabric.

First was OVER the thread. Here it is UNDER the thread.Keep in mind that interlacing is done as OVER-UNDER-OVER-UNDER.

While interlacing... you can simply sing it.

Again OVER(5-6) and UNDER 7. Notice that every time the frame is rotated.You are going to do this repeatedly while doing the kutchwork.

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OVER 6 and UNDER (7-8)

UNDER 5

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OVER 4 and under (5-6)

UNDER 3

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OVER 2 and UNDER (3-4)

You can see two threads inside the outline now.Take care. At this point, we can't bypass it without weaving.

So pass the needle UNDER as shown in the picture. OVER (8-7) thread.

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When you become more familiar with the technique,you can do the last two steps as a single one as shown in the above picture.

ie; UNDER (3-4), OVER the first interlacing thread and UNDER the second interlacing thread.

Now UNDER 1 and pull the needle up.

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Insert the needle down at the point, where you began interlacing.

Interlacing is over. Basic diamond is formed.

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Backside of the work. During interlacing, we never insert the needle anywhere into the fabric,

except in the beginning and the end. (both are at same point)

We did a comparitively bigger motif. when you are thorough with the outlining and interlacing, try the same on smaller motifs. Then, no need of drawing the outward extension of each side. you may draw

just single squares. The picture below shows working on a smaller basic motif.

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Do few basic motifs with the help of this tutorial. Then make it thorough with practicing more and more before moving on to the next session the 5 diamond motif. If you are thorough with this session,

I hope that will be so simple for you....

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Embroidery Knits - Embroidery Designs for Happy Minds.

http://embroideryknits.wordpress.com/2013/04/23/kutch-embroidery/

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SIMPLE INTERLACED BORDER

http://www.embroidery.rocksea.org/stitch/herringbone-stitch/interlaced-herringbone-stitch/

SARAH’S HAND EMBROIDERY TUTORIALS

Interlaced Herringbone Stitch

Created by sarah on 20 Oct 2011

This stitch is beautiful, made by weaving over the double herringbone stitch with another thread of same or different color. This stitch requires patience to learn. Once learnt, it will be very easy to do this stitch, and will never be forgotten! Interlaced herringbone stitch forms one of the main stitches for one of the most popular indian embrodieries called Kutch work.

You need to know the double herringbone stitch to be able to continue with this tutorial. This tutorial is best understood by following the illustrations, without much dependence on the description.

…. Double herringbone stitch: First, make a row of double herringbone stitch as the base.

….

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Fig 1: Bring the needle out with a contrasting colored thread from the left corner of the double herringbone stitch row. Observe that the stitch a-b and c-d lies over the stitch p-q. So, to weave, take the needle under the legs of p-q, as shown. This locks the thread in there.

Fig 2: Now, take needle over the leg of c-d, again passing under p-q, and over the contrasting thread. Then, go under r-s.

….

Fig 3: Keep up with this procedure of weaving around the ’crossings’ for the upper half of the double herringbone stitch.

Fig 4: When you reach the right end of the double herringbone stitch, turn around the needle, by weaving around, as illustrated.

….

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Fig 5: We keep up with the same method of weaving, only this time, it is inverse, or upside down. Follow the illustrations to undertand how the needle goes up and down the stitches and threads in a perfect weave.

Fig 6: If you look at a single stitch ( x-y) of the double herringbone stitch, you will see how the threads have passed over and under it alternately.

….

Fig 7: Continue this process of weaving for the bottom half of the double cross stitch, until you reach back to the left end. End the weaving at the point from where you began from.

Fig 8: A perfect weave of the interlaced herringbone stitch should show up like this.

….

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ADDING A BLOCK TO THE BASIC INTERLACED ROW

KUTCH WORK BORDER DESIGN-2

http://eagerneedler.blogspot.com/2008/04/kutch-border-design-2.html

Step 1. Trace the design.

Step 2. Work the grid from left to right. The route is a little different here because of the extra diamond at the top.

Step 3. Complete the grid, working right to left.

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Step 2. Work the grid from left to right. The route is a little different here because of the extra diamond at the top.

Step 4. End by taking the needle to the reverse side.

Step 5. Begin interlacing, again left to right. We will complete the third diamond in the next step.

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Step 6. Complete interlacing.

Step 7. End at the same point that you began. Tie a knot on the reverse side.

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All done!!

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BASIC MALTESE CROSS

Kutchwork Tutorial - The 5 Point Diamond Motif (Maltese Cross) - Part I

http://jishamadhu.blogspot.in/2011/05/kutchwork-tutorial-5-point-diamond_25.html

I hope that you are thorough with the Outlining and Interlacing of the Basic Diamond Motif. Now we move on to the Five Point Diamond Motif or the Maltese Cross. The following diagram shows the the structure of the five point motif. It can be considered as a square or a diamond depending on how we place the diagram.

Outlining the Maltese CrossWe have already done outlining of the single diamond motif. Keep the following points in mind. The beginning and end points are the outward extensions of the same corner. Always keep the thread under the needle while inserting needle at the corners. We rotate the frame during each step which helps to get a rapid idea of where to move the needle and thread next.

Here the 5 individual diamonds/squares are labelled 1-5 and corner A's outward extensions as the beginning and end points. I think, it will make things more complicate if we number or label the outward extension of each corners. Hope you will be more comfortable with this method. We will start with the 1st diamond. Hold the frame in such a way that the point A is opposite to you. Bring the needle up at A. Then insert the needle at the 2nd corner (towards you) keeping the thread under the needle.

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When you rotate the frame for next stitch, you will get an idea of where to insert the needle next. It is at the end of that line (reaches 4th diamond). When we reach a line, we never can insert the needle in between. We have to move to the end of that line to form the corner. Now you will be finishing the 4th diamond.

Refer the following pictures if necessary.

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Next, we will reach the 5th diamond. Finish it's outlining and reaches the 2nd Diamond.

Finish the 2nd Diamnd's outlining and now we are going back to the first Diamond. Please stop for a moment here and examine what you have done so far.

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Examine the passing of thread. You can identify that the thread is always passing in such a way that if at a point it passes under the other thread, at the next point, the same thread passes over the other thread. Here, at this point, if we move directly to the end of the line of the first diamond, the process of under-over will not occur. So as in the below picture we have to pass the needle under the thread before reaching back to the first diamond. In the outlining of the Maltese Cross, we are doing this for the first time. Remember this point always.

Now, finish the outlining when we reach the corner A.

Now the Maltese Cross outlining is ready.

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Kutchwork Tutorial - The 5 Point Diamond Motif (Maltese Cross) - Part II

INTERLACING THE FIVE POINT DIAMOND MOTIF (MALTESE CROSS)Bring the needle up at the outward corner of the beginning and end of the maltese cross. Keep in mind the following points. The thread always moves in a 'U' pattern. Interlacing is done in an OVER-UNDER-OVER-UNDER manner. Unless at the beginning and end, never pierce the fabric. Do not tighten the interlacing thread too much.

As in the single diamond motif's interlacing begin interlacing the diamond 1.

At this point we have to change the direction of the interlacing. Remember that the thread should pass in a 'U' manner. See the below picture. Needle passes UNDER and enters the diamond 3.

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OVER the next thread in the same direction. We have to take a 'U ' turn. Enter into the 4th diamond. Finish the interlacing in this diamond.

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Again reaches back to the diamond 3. See the picture below. At diamond 3, enter into it as UNDER, then OVER to the opposite side. Again UNDER and reaches diamond 5.

Complete the interlacing in diamond 5.

Reaches back to the diamond 3. Refer the picture below. At this point, as before, enter as UNDER , then OVER to the opposite side. Again UNDER and reaches diamond 2.

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Complete the interlacing in diamond 2. Again reaches back to 3rd diamond. Pass the thread as UNDER, OVER (interlacing thread), UNDER(interlacing thread), OVER and UNDER (of 1st diamond).

We reached back to our beginning diamond 1. Have to complete the interlacing.

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See the back side of the Maltese cross. During interlacing, as I said before, the needle never pierce the fabric unless at the beginning and end.

For the first few times, refer the tutorials to get the technique well, while outlining and interlacing. Do the maltese cross many times. Make sure that you can do it by yourself.

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VIDEO TUTORIAL - THE DOUBLE MALTESE CROSS – FOUNDATION AND INTERLACING

– by the Eager Needler - http://eagerneedler.blogspot.com/

Kutch Embroidery Tutorial - Part 1 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPFnsyhGy-8

Kutch Embroidery Tutorial - Part 2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOKuZYXGV-U

http://kutchwork-tutorial.blogspot.com/2006/06/lesson-iii.html

The Double Maltese Cross - Foundation and Interlacing By Bhavani Harikrishnan

As already mentioned, once you understand the basics, all others patterns are easy to execute. They are but combinations of the basic motifs.

The sketch above is just a cluster of four Maltese Cross motifs linked together at the center by a Single Diamond.

For the sake of discussion,let us call this motif the Double Maltese Cross.

There is no need for step-by-step instructions for this motif.

So, how do you decide where to turn and where just to follow the lines?We have already discussed corners and intersections in lesson II Part I.Now here is what you do –When you reach a corner – turn

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When you reach an intersection – use it to reach the next square or in this case the next Maltese Cross

Now the filling or the interlacing –

When you reach a corner – go around it.When you reach an intersection – turn and move on to the next square or in this case, the next Maltese Cross.

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The pictures above show the starting and finishing of the Double Maltese Cross.Posted by Bhavani Harikrishnan at 11:00 PM

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http://abhivyaktiya.blogspot.com/search/label/sindhi%20stitch%20sketches

Posted by SANDHYA KHATTRI

Traingle Pattern : Tutorial on Sindhi Stitch

Sindhi stitch looks very beautiful, though it follows a series of geometrical patterns but after filling it gets a beautiful embroidery look. It is also know as kutch work or kutch embroidery. Traditionally sindhi women do this without any tracing, it looks difficult but once you are familiar with the steps it is easy to do it without any trace of design, now a days for an ease traces are available in some embroidery books. For your ease I have also prepared some sindhi stitch sketches for this particular traingle pattern, with their help you will easily understand the pattern and its 4 different stages and by following them step by step after 3-4 attempts(if it is new to you) you will be able to make the same pattern.

Before proceding further I will suggest you to take a look at my previous post on sindhi stitches especiallySindhi stitch guide,BordersBorders II,sindhi stitch border on kurtaall these patterns will be helpful to you to understand this much better.This pattern is slightly complex, I have to spend time in learning this, if you carefully see this is an extension of my post on border on sindhi stitch in kurta. This traingle can be usde as a border to by attaching one by one, I will show its illustration in my upcoming post, hence this is a tutorial I am showing you a single segment you can use this at various embroidery projects according to your need. This pattern comprise of 4 stages:Step -1 lowest row of traingle

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Step-2 upper part of traingle

step-3 filling of traingle

step-4 filling of lowest row of traingle.

This pattern moves from left to right(step-1)Right to left(step-2)left to right(step-3)right to left(step-4)

I have written in my first post each & every pattern ends at the point from where it had began. Starting point and ending point both are same in sindhi embroidery.

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If you have any queries please feel free to write me in comment section. If you like this post please like it on face book too.

http://kutchwork-tutorial.blogspot.in/2013/01/kutchwork-pattern-for-kurtha.html

Kutch Work Tutorial - By Bhavani Harikrishnan

Free Kutchwork Pattern For Kurtha - Part I

Kutchwork is what I'd pick if I want to embellish something and want it quick. You don't have to spend too of time on it.

Unfortunately, some people find Kutchwork difficult. I'd say, they weren't taught Kutchwork the right way.

All that is required is to understand the concept of the unders and overs that give this type of embroidery an identity entirely its own.

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Here is the design I used on my Kurta. Click on the picture to enlarge. You can then print it out.

Working on the 1st pattern is easy enough. The second one is slightly complicated. I'll show how it should be worked in my next post.

I've used three strands of Anchor stranded cotton.

Tip: You can use the smallest motif with the satin stitch leaves around the neckline and the 1st motif can be spaced here and there on the kurta to give your outfit an exotic finish.

Kutchwork Kurta Design - Part II

Working The Skeleton

Here's the pattern transferred to the fabric using white carbon (available with all wholesale stationery dealers).

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Working the Skeleton:The first step to working a kutchwork pattern is to pick up a pencil and trace the design starting at any point. For this design, start at point 1 then move on to 2 etc and continue to trace it until you get back to one.

Note: I have numbered only 2 repeats of the pattern here.

Observe that you were able to trace the pattern continuously without taking the pencil off the pattern to start again elsewhere. This is the path your skeleton will take.

In the PIC 1 and PIC 2 below, I've striven to make my explanation for working the skeleton as clear as possible. I may even guilty of over explaining things. So, if you have grasped the general idea, simply ignore the rest.

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Now the rest of the steps for working the skeleton.

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This picture below shows you how to turn a corner (extreme right) in order to return to the starting point.

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With the skeleton complete, you are now ready to work on the interlacing.

Friday, January 25, 2013

Kutchwork Kurta Design - Part III The Interlacing

Note: I've used 6 strands of Anchor Stranded cotton for both the skeleton and the interlacing. I normally use a tapestry needle for the interlacing. The reason? When you use an ordinary sewing needle, chances of your needle snagging the yarn and pulling at the already laid skeleton are high. This results in a shabby finish. By using a tapestry needle, you eliminate this problem.

The Interlacing can be worked in 2 ways. The way I've done it for this kurta, and a 2nd method which produces a totally different effect.

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Which method you choose depends on your personal preference. I personally prefer Method II for 2 reasons.

1. It does not deviate from the normal rules of Kutchwork and is therefore, easier to remember. 2. Method II looks more like Kutchwork than Method I.

Here Method I looks more attractive than Method II, mostly because, I've used different colors for working the skeleton and the interlacing. That you can clearly distinguish between the skeleton and the interlacing, adds an element of interest to the design.

I'd choose Method I if I am working with 2 colours and Method II if I am working with a single colour.

Use 2-3 strands if you are working on silk or very fine material.All 6 strands, if you are working the design on a cushion cover - you want the design to stand out and draw the attention of anyone who enters the room.

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4 strands work just as well as 6. But in my experience, whenever I use 4 strands, I end up losing the remaining 2 strands. The result? A lot of wasted yarn.

Kutchwork Kurta Design - Part IV

The Interlacing - Method IOkay, now here are the steps to Method I. A word of caution. You'll have to put up with my bad photography while looking at the first few pictures.

If this is the first time you are attempting Kutchwork, I'd suggest you go through the tutorials in my side bar before you attempt this.

Note: I have used numbers and letters to name lines for ease of explanation. They may or may not be consistent with the letters and numbers assigned for working the skeleton.

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If you want to enlarge the images, just click on them. When I say over or under, it means the needle has to pass over or under the skeletal lines.

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From here on, I am sure most of you will be able to proceed without any difficulty. All the same, I'll post the steps all the way through.

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I've finally figured out how to take better pictures. From here onwards, the pictures are very clear.

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We have reached the end. Now, we'll have to weave our way back to the starting point.

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Tuesday, February 05, 2013

Kutch Work Kurta Design - Part V

I wondered if doing a video tutorial would be a better idea: then I decided to stick to my own style. I think my pictures are very clear and if at any time you have a doubt, referring to pictures is easier than referring to a Kutch work video tutorial. So here I am with my next batch of pictures. They are time consuming - but worth all the time and effort I've put into them.

As always, click on pictures to enlarge. They are self- explanatory.

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From here on you'll simply have to repeat from step 1. The next 3 pictures explain how to turn so you can return to the point in Step 1 where you started the interlacing.

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Steps 24 to 29 show how to interlacing your way back to the starting point.

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Interlacing done. But the center looks incomplete doesn't it. You'll have to interlace it in 2 separate steps.

Steps 31 a to 36 show how it is done.

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Anything that's worth doing at all is worth doing well. So do pay attention to the finishing. Making sure you finish at the exact point where you start for a classy look.

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FANCY CROSSES & MEDALLIONS

Jizee6687's Weblog on hand embroidery journey

https://jizee6687.wordpress.com/about/kutchwork-tutorials/kutch-work-tutorial-woven-kutchwork-motif-2/

Kutch work tutorial- woven kutchwork motif-2

After writing a tutorial on woven kutch work , I got inspired to do a yoke for tunic with small woven kutch work motifs. These woven motifs are worked with pointed corners.The first motif is here.This tutorial is another small motif.I am not writing the basic kutchwork tutorial here, because they are already available on the net. This is just a detailing of this particular type of woven kutchwork motifs.I forgot take a picture of the pattern on graph paper, It’ll a take some more time if I have to upload that picture, so here is the pattern on the fabric-

woven motif-2 pattern

Step 1-In this first step, the centre square shape is worked with the anchoring basic stitch.

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woven motif 2-step1

Step 2-The second step is to stitch the anchoring bars around the central square. These two steps are done separately, no connecting thread , after finishing each and every bar/square, we just go to the back of the fabric, and start again for the next bar. Remember to work these bars / square correctly. This is the starting point.

woven motif-2 step2

Step-3-This anchoring base stitch is a continuous one. This gives the shape to the pattern. This stitch is easier if the bars/ square are worked in a precise manner.

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woven motif -2 step 3

Step-4

The inter lacing starts at this step. I have left the weaving for the last step. We are securing all the corners in this step .Notice the journey of the thread – the thread goes around at the pointed corners, and the same thread just turns at right angles at the inside corners.This step the thread interlaces each and every bar individually.Till this step, the working is the same for a normal kutchwork motif and a kutchwork woven motif.

woven motif 2 step 4

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Step-5The weaving starts in the step,All the perpendicular bars are woven first- picture with the woven bars.

woven motif-2 step-5

Step-6-Just a step 3 this thread journey is also a continuous one. Take out the thread at the starting point, start weaving, just move up and down the already worked threads to get the woven effect.

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woven motif 2 completed

I have not given a thorough explanation of each and every step. For two reasons-This tutorial is just a guide, to be used for reference.I was working on the yoke as a part of the tunic and not as tuitorial steps.Still I ‘ll be happy to elaborate, if any one wants. If some one wants a tuitorial for this motif also, give me some time I ‘ll work on it.Your feedback would help me to learn.Thank you,Chitra

kutch work tutorial- small motif 3 [continuous working]

Tutorial for woven kutch motif- small, continuous stitchThis motif is a part of a medium sized pattern that can be used for any project. The pattern has four motifs in woven kutchwork. This is the first one. Generally , in working the woven kutchwork, continuity of the thread journey is always not possible, but this small motif is different, the whole motif can be worked in one thread journey.I have used two threads –one for basic stitch, another for interlacing for photographic purposes only. This matter is for individual choice.-

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motif pattern - The drawing pattern

kutch-1 - After drawing the pattern on the cloth, the stitch is started with first[yellow] thread.-

kutch-2 - Travel to the next point on your left , make a small stitch.* -

kutch-3 - Make a small stitch at the next point on this small square-

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kutch-4 - After finishing the square, time to move across to the other end and make a small stitch

kutch-5 - Again , make a small stitch at the next point-

kutch-6 - Moving across to the other side- kutch-7 - Repeat the small stitch-

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kutch-8 - Crossing over start to work on the square at the other end-

kutch-10 - Completing this square also-

kutch-9 - Working around the square-

kutch-11 - Now moving across involves going up and down the lines already worked previously.-

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kutch-11 - Make a stitch at the adjacent point and come back crossing and moving up and down the

next band-kutch-12 - Secure this thread at the other end and move over to the next point

kutch-12 - Make a small stitch again, prepare to move to the other end

kutch13 - completion of the anchoring stitch-

Now for the interlacing, as we know, the anchoring stitch is the same for the normal and woven kutchwork. The variation starts in the interlacing, where we

weave through the anchoring stitch.

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kutch14 - Starting at the same place with the interlacing[ pink ] thread kutch15 - Simple interlacing in the square-

kutch-16 - Go around the next point- kutch 17 - We start with the weaving here-

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kutch 18 - In this step the weaving is done, by taking cue from the anchoring stitch adjacent to it[ to the left side here].this thread just does the

opposite journey of that anchoring thread-

kutch-19 - We go around the corner, here

kutch 20 - We around the next point here and start weaving back kutch-21 - We turn around at right angles

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kutch 22 - Another turn at the right angle-

kutch 23 - The last turn here to start the weaving, notice , how the interlacing thread goes over and under at the corner.Now the weaving stitch is worked opposite to the anchoring thread , which is adjacent to it.[right]

kutch 24 - At the end of the pattern turn at the corner- kutch 26 - Again turn at the next point in this

square-

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kutch 27 - We are returning back the same path was we went before, and turning at the right

angleskutch 28 - Turning around at the pointed corner

kutch 29 - We finish interlacing on this square-

kutch 30 - After the square is interlaced, the thread starts a weaving again-

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kutch 31 - After forward journey, turning at the corners is done here-

kutch 32 - Now the weaving back is worked with this thread

kutch 33 - We turn at right angles and complete th interlacing on this square

-

kutch 34 - We turn at right angles, and complete interlacing on the adjacent square also-

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kutch 35 - Turn at right angle, to start the weaving on the last band

kutch 37 - Now turn at the corners to complete this square-

kutch 40 - Start weaving back to reach the last square

kutch 41 - Turn at right angle, going underneath the first stitch done with the interlacing thread, thus completimg this motif-

Completed motif-

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Kutchwork tutorial motif-6 – Med Maltese Cross

I had worked on a medium sized kutch work motif for a yoke, and wanted to share that motif on this blog, then I checked the motifs which I had posted earlier and found that, the simpler version of this motif was not posted at all. So in this tutorial, I am posting the simple woven motif.The completed motif look like this-

motif -6-1

The pattern on paper-

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m-6-drawing

The pattern on cloth-

m-6-pat on cloth

The basic stitches-Starting with the first bar-

m-6-1

Completed basic stitch on bar.

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m-6-2

Basic stitch of the outer square-

m-6-3

Basic stitch on the second bar-

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m-6-4

Whoever uses this tutorial would be knowing how to work the basic stitches. After working the first bar, the other basic stitches will go over or under alternatively to form a solid basic foundation, if there are any confusion, see the pictures and follow the steps and practice on them.Woven and interlaced stitches-I used yellow variegated thread for interlacing. This motif also requires the extra[fourth line] to be worked separately, because the weaving thread does not flow automatically for the fourth line. The extra stitches are worked first.

m-6-5

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After finishing the first journey for the fourth line, starting the second journey of the fourth line, this is worked around the other bar.

m-6-6

two journeys are completed-

m-6-7

The corners of the outer square are worked and the weaving thread goes around the square weaving through the basic stitches, and the extra fourth line thread. And we move on to weaving the two bars.

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m-6-8

The first bar is woven.

m-6-9

Moving on to the weaving of the other bar, the motif is completed.

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m-6-completed

Hope this tutorial is easy and useful for all the kutchwork enthusiastics . if there are any questions or doubts, they can posted on the comments, I ‘ll try to answer them.Thank you,

Happy stitching.

Kutch work tutorial. Woven motif-8

Maltese Cross Interlace

Level-EasyThis is another simple motif in woven kutchwork.The drawing-

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motif -8 pat drawing

The pattern copied on fabric-

motif-8 pat on fabric

the steps-the basic stitches are done in three steps.Step -1.the basic stitch worked on the centre square-The beginning-

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motif-8-1

The worked square-

motif-8-2

Step-2- the basic stitches on the four diagonal bands. starting with the first band.

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motif-8-3

Basic stitches on Two diagonal bands completed.

motif-8-4

Basic stitches on all diagonal bands completed.the third step started-5

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motif-8-5

Step3- the basic stitches are worked , which will cover the whole motif in this last step.

motif-8-6

Work in progress on the third step, notice the up and down movement of the thread.

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motif-8-7

The basic stitches completed.

motif-8-8

The weaving is worked in pink thread.The weaving and interlacing in this motif is done in four stages. There is no particular order, they can be worked in any manner.I started like this-This motif requires the extra fourth line in four places which will complete the interlocked squares formed within the basic stitches. Starting with that step-

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motif-8-9

The fourth line is completed in all places.

motif-8-10

Working the centre with pink thread-

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motif-8-11

Completed centre-

motif-8-12

Weaving on the bands on four sides, one band is completed , weaving in progress on the second band.

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motif-8-13

All four bands woven in this picture-

motif-8-14

The last step of working on the basic stitches, to form the rest of the interlocked squares .

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motif-8-15

The movement of the weaving on one side in this picture-

motif-8-16

Completed woven motif-

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motif-8-completed

Another angle of the motif-

motif-8-completed2

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SHISHA – ADDING MIRRORS

Shisha is a technique widely used in Northwest India on everything from clothes to bags and household articles. You can use this technique to mount traditional round mirrors and also coins, large sequins, buttons, flat jewels or anything else that has something of a squared edge.

I get my mirrors at JoAnn;s Fabrics in the section that sells small mirrors for crafts. Buying them there guarantees that they will all be the same size consistently from package to package. They are also better quality and have fewer sharp burrs. You can buy them on the internet and they come from India. They tend not to be as good a quality and the size is whatever size they were making that day.

And, finally, Yes, they are machine washable. Use a cool setting. You can even put then through the dryer.

A couple of notes about working with mirrors –

1. Mirrors are sharp on the edges. Before using them you should file the edges with an emery board or sand paper to take the burr off. If you do not do this it will cut your thread either when you are mounting it, or later when you are wearing and washing the article. You will be able to feel with your finger when it is smooth and not sharp.

2. If you are using something large and unwieldy like mirrors or buttons or flat jewels, it can be awkward to hold them in place while you are getting them anchored. You can anchor them in place with a drop of hot glue or fabric glue and this will secure them nicely until you get them stitched down.

http://www.joyfulabode.com/2008/02/12/tutorial-indian-shisha-mirror-embroidery/

Tutorial: Indian Shisha (mirror) Embroidery

Shisha (the Hindi word for “little glass”) embroidery is also known as mirror-work or abla embroidery. Originally, pieces of mica were used as the mirrors, but later, thin blown-glass pieces were broken and used. Today, small mirrors are commercially available for shisha embroidery. If you use these, make sure to file the edges first so the mirrors aren’t sharp.

I like using paillettes, those large sequins with a tiny hole in the side. They’re extremely lightweight, not sharp at all, and readily available

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in many colors. They worked perfectly in my “Local pride” apron. I also think it would be really neat to use coins from around the world in shisha embroidery.

I’ve recently gotten really into playing with embroidery, and I decided to at the very least do this one tutorial to share my love of the art form with you all. All you handcrafting/DIY-type folks, get ready!

1. Gather your materials. You’ll need fabric, an embroidery hoop, a sharp needle, a shisha mirror (or paillette or coin), and embroidery floss.

2. Secure your fabric in the hoop tightly. Thread your needle and knot the end of your floss.

3.Place your shisha on the fabric, and secure it with a crossing of foundation stitches.

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4.

5.

Now, duplicate the foundation stitches, but turned 45 degrees… like this.

Until you get this.

Now, you could leave it at that, and decorate around it. It’s pretty secure and it looks pretty, right? But if you’re more interested in creating a solid frame for your shisha, continue. Poke your needle up through the fabric beside your mirror.Then, slide your needle under the foundation stitches, from the center toward the edge.

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6.

7.

8.

Pull your needle through and tighten the stitch, then work one backstitch right next to your mirror.

Now, your next stitches will be like blanket stitches. Again, thread the needle under your foundation stitches from the center to the edge, but make sure your thread is looped UNDER your needle as you pull the stitch tight.

From now on, when you work the backstitch after your blanket stitch,make sure to initially poke your needle through the previous backstitch. This will create an attractive chain around your shisha.

This is why I like to take it out of the hoop. It allows me to sort of bend the fabric backward to have more control over my backstitches.

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9.

10. Keep going until you’re finished!

11. Are you proud of yourself? You should be! You could stop there, or you can decorate it some more (back in the embroidery hoop for this). I started with a border of turquoise chain stitches, to match my paillette.

Once I get my shishsa started, I like to take it out of the embroidery hoop. You can if you want to, but you don’t have to. Keep working steps 7 and 8 around the mirror.

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12. And then… oh look! The shisha is shining with happiness!

13. I finished mine up with some delightful little french knots.

14. Enjoy! And join the flickr group to show off your own shisha embroidery.

HENRY ART GALLERY – EMBROIDERY STITCH IDENTIFICATION GUIDE

http://dig.henryart.org/embroidery-stitches/stitch_pages/cretan_and_herringbone_variation_one.htmCretan and Herringbone (Variation 1)Structural Category CompositeSpecific Usage SurfaceOther Names

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Comment

The Cretan stitch goes over a thread that secures the shisha mirror, not through the fabric.

Diagrams

Steps 1-3 show how to fasten the shisha mirror to the fabric before doing the decorative stitches. This method is common to shisha mirror attachments. See the note in the directions for Step 3. Diagrams for the decorative stitches worked over this grid are from other sources.

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1. 2.

Place the mirror on the fabric and come up at A, go down at B, come up at C, go down at D, and come up at E. Holding the working thread up, pass the needle from right to left under AB. Holding the working thread up, pass the needle from right to left under CD. Go down at F.

Come up at G. Holding the working thread down, pass the needle from left to right under CD. Holding the working thread down, pass the needle from left to right under AB. Go down at H.

3. 4.

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Come up at I (between D and F). Turn the work so I is at 6 o'clock.

Note: Some diagrams place I between A and E; however, a thread on the reverse between H and I holds the mirror more firmly against the fabric as the decorative stitches are added.

Turn the work so I is at 6 o'clock before doing Step 4.

Pass the needle behind the network of threads and over the mirror.

5. 6.

Take a stitch in the fabric at JK from right to left.

Again pass the needle behind the thread network over the mirror and between the legs of the previous Cretan stitch. Pull the thread taut.

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7.

Take a stitch from right to left in the fabric at LM passing the needle under the working thread. As you pull this taut the thread creates a ridge on top of the Cretan stitches (see sample). Continue in this manner around the thread network.

Diagram source: Sue Chamberlain, reprinted by permission.

Chemanthy Flowers with Shisha Mirrors

http://letslearnembroidery.blogspot.com/search/label/Mirror%20work%202

Thursday, November 10, 2011

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Divide a 4cm diameter circle into 12.Transfer the 12 points onto the fabric.Draw straight lines connecting 2 opposite points and passing through the center.Draw more lines to form a star.Place the mirror (I’ve used a 1.25cm diameter mirror) in the middle and fix it with 4 straight and 4 diagonal stitches as shown (it is better to first fix the mirror with fabric glue).

These are the points on each petal.

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Bring the needle up at the point shown (near A).

Bring the needle under the foundation stitch and pull through.

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Bring the needle under the foundation stitch again but don’t pull through the needle yet.Take a small stitch and bring the needle up at A and wrap the thread under the needle.

Pull through (it is important to use the same tension here, all around the mirror to produce beautiful, rounded center).

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\\

Go back into A and come up at B, wrap thread under the needle and pull

through.

Enter at point C.

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Come up at the point below D.Bring the needle under the foundation

stitch.Pull through.

Go back under the foundation stitch.Without pulling through, take a small stitch and come up at D.Wrap the thred under the needle and pull through

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Repeat DE as in AB and enter fabric at C.

Continue in the same manner for the last part of the petal.

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This is the stitch, done half-way.

The completed mirror work.

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To learn how this is stitched without mirror, please click here.

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Kutchwork Holding Shisha Mirrorshttp://deepashome.blogspot.com/2011/05/fixing-shishamirror-with-kutch.html

by - Deepa Balagopal

Kutchwork Shisha tutorial - Part 1,stitching the frame

For all those who wanted to know how the kutch work pattern with mirror was stitched,here's the tutorial. I have tried to show most of the steps,but since this pattern is slightly different from the usual, you may have to put your thinking cap on and use a little bit of your logic too.

Oh, and one more thing – I am not showing the mirror fixing here. Once you learn the stitching part, you can just tack the mirror down in the middle of the pattern and do the weaving and interlacing as usual.

Shown below is the pattern diagram. I've numbered each corner in the order of stitching. If you look at the picture, you'll find that there are three boxes (1 to 8, 9 to 16 and 17 to 24)

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I've used all the six strands of anchor stranded cotton for the stitching. 6 strands gives a nice filled look to the pattern. But it is entirely your choice.

Kutch work is essentially weaving and interlacing. The point that you need to remember here is that in weaving we always have to pass the threads in the over and under sequence. Let us start. Let us start.

Step 1 : Come up at point 1 as shown in the picture below.You can see that I've not come up at the exact corner of the square,instead it is slightly below the actual corner of the square.

I've used the diagram for comparison and I've also marked the relevant points.

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Step 2 : Go down at 2 and come up at 3. Again note that I do not go down at the exact corners. You can imagine that the sides of the squares are extended a bit.

Step 3 : Go down at 4 and come up at 5.

Step 4 : This is where the weaving logic starts. From 5 ,you have to go to 6 and come up at 7. Note the horizontal thread marked with black arrow . It went over the thread from 1 to 2 ,so its sequence will be as shown in the picture below.

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Step 5 : Follow the same logic from 7 to 8. Go down at 8 and you'll get the first rectangle.

Step 6 : Now come up at point 9. To go to 10 ,you have to weave through the existing threads. Have a look at the horizontal thread marked with black. It is passing under the thread from 1 to 2 (first step) . So now it should pass over the thread from 9 to 10.

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Step 7: Weave in the below mentioned sequence.

Step 8 : Go down at 10 and come up at 11.

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Step 9: Go down at 12 and come up at 13

Step 10 : To go to 14, repeat the weaving sequence.

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Step 11 : Come up at 15 and go across to 16. The square is complete. Come up at 17 to start the next rectangle.

Step 12 : Weave across to 18 and come up at 19. Go across to 20 and come up at 21.

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Step 13 : Weave to 22 and come up at 23. Complete the rectangle by going across to 24

This completes the basic frame for this particular pattern..

Part 2 , the interlacing

I We have completed the framework .Here, I'll show how the interlacing is done.I've used a light colored thread (six strands) for the interlacing .

Step 1. The starting point is between 1 and 8.Come up between the points 1 and 8.

Have a careful look at the pic above. The three white lines correspond to the sequence in which I'll interlace the squares (or diamonds).

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The sketch for reference!!

Step 2 : Follow the over ,under sequence. You're going inside the square.

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Step 3: Now move out.Check the pictures below.

Your frame will look like this after step 3.

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Step 4: Moving back into the square - over and under the purple thread

The kutch base looks like this.

Step 5: The top part of the square is complete. We'll now move to the next square. Once the top section of three squares in the line are interlaced ,on the return journey we'll interlace the bottom half

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Repeat the same sequence as in the first square for the next squares in the line.

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Step 7: Go back into the last square to interlace the second half. Follow the pictures to complete the interlacing of the first line.

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Step 8: Once you reach at the starting point,go down and come up at the next line (9 and 16)

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Step 9 : Repeat the above steps from 1 to 8 for the second and third line too.

The completed pattern!!

Now you can try the same with big sequins or mirrors or even with four small mirrors,glued in the appropriate open squares. I hope you enjoyed learning something totally new :)

Love,luck and sunshine,Deepa

Fly Stitch – Chemanthi or Anklet Stitch

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Fly Stitch – Chemanthi Stitch – Anklet Stitch

You will often see star-like flowers combined with kutchwork. Sometimes they are plain and others they are used to frame shisha mirrors. These flowers are made with a type of fly stitch known

as chemanthi or anklet stitch. Fly Stitch is also used for filling free form shapes.

Video tutorial - chemanthi work hand embroidery – YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mthVdbK_4fY

Chemanthi Stitch Tutorial

Look here for some of my projects which I have done long before. And here are my experiments on some variations of chemanthi works.Please see the direction of the needle in each stitch. Click the picture to get bigger images. Each chemanthi petal have 4 stitches. Its your wish to make as many petals as you like. But take care to maintain the uniform distance between the petals.

Bring up the needle from the centre of the circle ie at point 0. Now start your first stitch by bringing down the needle at point1. And bring up at point2.

Now the second stitch. Pass the needle at the centre and bring up the needle above the centre and needle should be on the thread so that it makes a loop.

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This is the third stitch. Pass the needle just next to point1 i.e, at point5 and bring up the needle on the circle. At point 2 . Don’t confuse here. Point 2 and point 6 are at the same point.

This is the fourth stitch. Bring down the needle in the centre of the circle and bring up just above the the centre and needle should be above the thread so that it makes a loop

There completes the first petal. So over all each petal have 4 stitches

Now start the second petal. Turn the frame a bit to the left to make it convienient to stitch. Bring up the needle bit away from the first petal and repeat the 4 stitches like in first petal.

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There completes the second petal.

see the direction of the needle

Each time bring up needle at the same point in the centre of the circle so that it forms a hole in the middle of the circle like in buttonhole stitch.

Last stitch

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End the stitch here.

This is how the chemanthi flower looks.

Posted by Lakshmi at 12:20 PM

http://sadalas.blogspot.com/2009/10/chemanthi-stitch-tutorial-again.html

http://www.fruncesybordados.com.mx/Closed%20Herringbone%20Stitch.htm

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CLOSED HERRINGBONE STITCH

By making an extra stitch in Herringbone smocking, you can add an outline to the border.

Start on the left side of the first pleat, and stitch through the first two pleats (Step 1). Travel down to the next row, and stitch through pleats #3 and #2 (Step 2).

Step 1:

Step 2:

Finished Stitch:

An interesting variation of this stitch involves working the border in two passes, in contrasting colors. Each traveling stitch covers 4 pleats instead of 3.

Uses:

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