My Pilgramage to the Wise Men of the East-Moncure Daniel Conway-1906-449pgs-REL

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i 6 p l R a i m w t 3 1 ) . £anmap

MY PILGRIMAGE TO THE WISE MEN OFTHE EAST. W i t h x 6 i l l u s t r a t i o n s f r o m p h o -

t o g r a p h s . 8 v o , $3 . 0 0 , n e t . P o s t a g e e x t r a .AUTOBIOGRAPHY, MEMORIES, AND EX-PERIENCES. W i t h p o r t r a i t s a n d f a c s i m i l e

l e t t e r s . In two volumes, 8vo, $6 . o o , n e t .

P o s t p a i d , $ 6 . 4 3 .EMERSON AT HOME AND ABROADramp,

$ 1 . 5 0.

HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO .

BOSTON AND NRw YORK .



MY PILGRIMAGE TO THE WISE MEN

OF THE EAST



MY PI LGRIMAGE TO

THE WISE MEN OF THE EAST

BY

MONCURE DANIEL CONWAY

BOSTON AND NEW YORK

HOUGHTON, MIFF LIN AND COMPANY

( C b e t l i b e r 0 i b e p r e # # , € a m b r f D g e

1 9 0 6



COPYRIGHT I 9 o 6 BY MONCURE DANIEL CONWAY

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

P u b l i s h e d O c t o b e r 1 9 0 6



CONTENTS

Prolegomena-13CHAPTER I

T h e C u l t o f P a t r i o t i s m - Rober t G. I n g e r s o l l -A b l a c k m a r k o n t h e

D e c l a r a t i o n o f I n d e p e n d e n c e - P i l g r i m a g e s t o V i r g i n i a -T h e o r i -

g i n a l a b o r i g i n e s -T h e f i r s t c h u r c h i n N o r t h A m e r i c a-C r u e l t i e s

o f c o l o n i z a t i o n- C h r i s t m a s r e u n i o n s o f r e v o l u t i o n a r y v e t e r a n s -A Song of Seventy-six -Mar y Washington - Seamy side of the

R e v o l u t i o n 15-36

CHAPTER IIA witch hunt at Washington - Yellow Springs, Ohio - C i n c i n n a t i -

Judge badly - Journey to Salt Lake City - John W. Young-Mormonism a nd human n ature -Elder Penrose as a pr eacher -Mor mon wives and Mor mon , husbands -The fate of repudiated

w i v e s37-46

CHAPTER IIIS a n F r a n c i s c o - R e d C r o s s K n i g h t s -C h i n e s e J o s s a n d t h e a t r e -Voy-

a g i n g s o u t h w a r d -F l y i n g f i s h a n d s u n f i s h -Delia Bacon -Shake-

spear e-Baconism -Honolulu Sabbath -Cryptain Cook -Legends- Pele-Jehovah-Rev . Titus Coan -Samoans -P h en o m e n a-New Zealan d -Dr . R i c h a r d G a n n e t t -P e a r l - d i v e r s - O u r f l o a t i n g

Utopia7-69CHAPTER IVThe Melbour ne Cup -Joss House-S e c t s i n V i c t o r i a - G o v e r n o r o f

Victoria- Bishop of Melbourne -Re v . C h a r l e s S t r o n g - Austra-

l i a n i n s a n i t y - Ballarat gold mines - Ho n . P e t e r L a l o r-Ho n . A .

Inglis Clark-Hobart-Campbellites- N a t u r e ' s o d d i t i e s - R e l i c s

o f t r a n s p o r t a t i o n t i m e s - E x t i n c t i o n o f T a s m a n i a n s - M y o r d e a l i n

Sydney-Impa led with Bishop Moorhouse and Rev . C h a r l e s S t r o n g

- F u s i o n o f F r e e t h o u g h t a n d S p i r i t u a l i s m - The Botany Bay m yth

-Justice Windeyer0-96



v i CONTENTS

CHAPTER VC o l o n i a l C h a u v i n i s m -K i n g G e o r g e ' s S o u n d -W e i r d c o a s t n a m e s -

A u s t r a l i a n a b o r i g i n e s -A n u n c i v i l i z a b l e m a i d e n -D a n g e r s o f f e d -

e r a t i o n -K r a k a t o a n l a v a -V o l t a i r e a n d W e s l e y o n t h e L i s b o n

e a r t h q u a k e7 - 1 0 7

CHAPTER VIC e y l o n-P l a i n l i v i n g a n d h i g h t h i n k i n g - T a l k s w i t h t h e B u d d h i s t

Perera-Origin of Whittington's c at -"Rodyas"-A Sinhalese

l a w e o u r t -J u d g e A r u n d c h a l a m a n d h i s w i f e a t K a t t u r a - A r a m -

b l e w i t h Si n h a l e s e g e n t l e m e n - M y B u dd h i s t p l e a f o r a s u f f e r i n g

s n a k e - H i n d u s h r i n e s i n B u d d h i s t t e m p l e s - T h e l e a r n e d p r i e s t

S u b h f i t i - S i n h a l e s e h o m e s - A M o s l e m o n H e b e r ' s v e r s e a b o u t

C e y l o n -Temple at Kbandy - A Moslem sermon - K e l l a n i a-Buddhist folk-ta les-"Merits"-Nirvan a-My Christmas l e c -

t u r e a t C o l o m b o - H i g h p r i e s t o f A d a m ' s P e a k -C o n f e r e n c e s w i t h

B u d d h i s t s i n t h e i r c o l l e g e - A n u n p u b l i s h e d P i t a k a - " C o v e t o u s -

n e s s " - O f a c t i o n s a t o n c e r i g h t a n d s i n f u l - T h e e x t i n c t o r d e r o f

f e m a l e p r i e s t s -E n g l i s h m a s q u e r a d e r s-B i s h o p M c l l v a i n e a n d

B i s h o p T e m p l e . 1 0 8 - 1 4 2

CHAPTER VIIN e w Y e a r ' s e v e i n C i n n a m o n G a r d e n s -Ho n . P . R a m a n a t h a n ' s b a n -

quet-Devil-dances-Sinhalese demonology-Entertainment i n

t h e p a l a c e o f M u t u K u m a r a S w a m y -T h e N a u t c h d a n c e r s -" Th e

M a r t y r o f T r u t h " ( H a r i s c h a n d r a ) -W a g n e r i t e m u s i c 1 4 3 - 1 6 1

CHAPTER VII I

A r a b i i n E x i l e -R e l a t i o n s b e t w e e n E g y p t i an s a n d E n g l i s h i n C o l o m b o-A r a b i ' s M o h a m m e d a n C h r i s t i a n i t y -A d a m ' s P e a k a n d A r a r a t -H o w A r a b i ' s l i f e w a s s a v e d - T h e E n g l i s h d e f e n d e r s o f A r a b i -Arabi's situation at seventy-Conjurers-The giant t u r t l e o f

C o l o m b o - T h e h e a r t a n d l i f e o f B u d d h i s m i n C e y l o n 1 6 2 - 1 7 3

CHAPTER IXMadras -T e m p l e d a n c e r s -T a l k w i t h s t u d e n t s -Juggenauth - St .

Thome -A Portuguese Thomas -L e g e n d o f S a v a t r i - N e w D i s -

c o v e r i e s c o n c e r n i n g T h o m a s - P a i n a n d p i e t y -A J a i n p a r a b l e-G o o d w i l l t o m a n -A B u d d h i s t c a r o l . . . . 1 7 4 - 1 9 4



CONTENTS v i i

CHAPTER XAdyar -Mme. B l a v a t s ky a n d h e r c o n f e s s i o n -T h e T h e o s o p h i s t s

An Americ an r eceivin g the Buddhist pansa la -The a t t e m p t e d

f r a u d o n t h e B r o u g h t o n s -L e t t e r o f C o m m i s s i o n e r B r o u g h t o n -- O r i g i n o f K o o t h o o m i - R e v e l a t i o n s o f M m e . C o u l o m b . 1 9 5 - 2 1 4

CHAPTER XIC a l c u t t a -K e s h u b C h u n d e r S e n a n d h i s d e a t h -Jogendra Chandr a

G h o s h a n d P o s i t i v i s m -Mozoomdar a nd Dr . T y n d a l l -E x p o s i t i o n- H o l y p i c t u r e s -M i r a c l e p l a y s a n d H i n d u t h e a t r e s -K a l i g h a t

f e s t i v a l - S i r W i l l i a m H u n t e r -A learn ed fakir-Bali-Salva-

tion Army-Entertainment by Prince Furrok Shah-C h r i s t i a n

e r r o r s a b o u t " i d o l s " - A dr e a m i n t e r v i e w w i t h B a l i 2 1 5 - 2 4 7

CHAPTER XIIE x p l o r i n g B e n g a l -A c o n f e r e n c e o f r e l i g i o n s - M o s l e m C h r i s t i a n i t y

-Dr. R d j e n d r a M l a M i t r a o n C h r i s t i a n p o l y t h e i s m - H o n . S y e d

Ameer Au -Dr . Ananda Cumara Swamy -T h e m a r v e l l o u s d o l l s-M a h a r a j a h S i r J o t e n d r a M o t i o n T a j o r e -The demonized Buddha

Buddha- Gaya-Root of Buddha's Bo-tree -Letter from Dr .

Mitra-Buddhist-Hindu-p hilosophy-Benares- Monkey Temple-D e e r P a r k a n d l e g e n d o f t h e M a n g o G i r l -" T h e T o y - C a r t "-Our Wester n Buddha . 2 4 8 - 2 7 6

CHAPTER XIIID e l h i p a l a c e s - P i l l a r o f A s o k a - T h e M i n e r P i l l a r - P u r a n a K e e l s-The Taj at Agra -Akbar -The Parlia ment of Religions-

O r i e n t a l e t h i c s -T h e J e h a n a r a m o s q u e . 2 7 7 - 3 0 1

CHAPTER XIVAllahabad-Manwaysh festival-Ganges immersions-A Chris-

t i a n - B r a h m a n d e b a t e - R e l i c o f c o b r a - w o r s h i p -R i v e r d e i t i e s -

C h r i s t i a n a n d B r a h m a n d o c t r i n e s o f s a c r i f i c e 3 0 2 - 3 1 6

CHAPTER XVBombay- Alexander Agassiz -Missionar ies -Englan d in India -

"The Old Missionary "- Nelac anta h Goreh -P r o f e s s o r P e t e r s o n-Hindu hymn -A d r i v e w i t h J u d g e W e s t -S h a n k u r a n P a n d i t-The Towers of Silence - Zoroastrian ism-The zenan a-Ra-

mabai-Keshub Chunder Sen and his monumen t-B h a k t i ( f a i t h )



v m CONTENTS- I n d i a n s e c t s - F a u l t s o f E n g l i s h c o l o n i s t s - S a m u e l L a i n g , M

. P . ,

" A M o d e r n Z o r o a s t r i a n " - T h e i d e a l J a i n t e m p l e 3 1 7 - 3 4 2

CHAPTER XVIHomewar d -The Flying Dutchm an -Our ` Lady of the Peking'-A l e t t e r o f J o h n B r i g h t -" C h i n e s e G o r d o n " i n t h e S o u d an a n d

i n P a l e s t i n e - P i l g r i m a g e t o t h e K r u p p G u n W o r k s a t E s s e n , G e r -

m a n y - A d d r e s s a t D i c k i n s o n C o l l e g e , P e n n s y l v a n i a . 3 4 3 - 3 5 0

CHAPTER XVIIS e e k i n g t h e B e l o v e d5 1 - 3 8 1

CHAPTER XVIIIA d d e n d a 1 9 0 5 , 1 9 0 68 2 - 4 0 9

Index1 1



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

MoxcYRE D. CONWAY ( p h o t o g r a v u r e ) . . . F r o n t i s p i e c e

LETTER of R . G. INGERSOLL . 2 2

WASEADUWE SUBHQTI, A LEARNED BUDDHIST AUTHOR 1 1 8

A BUDDHI ST TEMPLE2 0KHANDY TEMPLE 1 2 2

SUMANGALA, PRIEST OF ADAM'S PEAK . 1 3 0

BUDDHIST PRIESTS OF CEYLON . 1 3 2

HON . P . RAMANATHAN, SOLICI TOR-GE NERAL OF CEYLON 1 3 4

DEVH.- DANCERS4 4ACHMET ARABI, " THE EGYPTIAN " . 1 6 2

VIRCHAND R. GANDHI, THE CHIEF RELIGI OUS LEADER AMONG

THE JAINS OF INDIA9 0THE JAIN SYMBOLICAL PICTURE . 1 9 2

MADAME BLAVATSKY9 6KESHUB CHUNDER SEN1 6

How . SPED AMEER ALI . 2 5 2

STUPA 2 6 4

CASTLE OF THE PANDAVAS . 2 8 2

PUNDITA RAMABAI3 2

SAMUEL LAING, M . P . , AUTHOR OF " A MODERN ZOROASTRIAN " 3 4 0

LETTE R OF JOHN BRI GHT . 3 4 6

SIR WILLIAM W HUNTER . 4 0 4



MY PILGRIMAGE TO THE WISEMEN OF THE EASTPROLEGOMENAAM I D t h e f a n t a s t i c A p o c r y p h a l f a b l e s o n e p o e t i c t a l e

h a s f o u n d i t s w a y i n t o t h e A r a b i c G o s p e l o f t h e

I n f a n c y .

1 1 And it cam e to pass when Jesus the Lord was born

a t B e t h l e h e m o f J u d a h , i n t h e t i m e o f H e r o d t h e K i n g ,

behold Wise Men c ame from the East to Jerusalem, as

Z o r o a s t e r h a d p r e d i c t e d : a n d t h e y h a d w i t h t h e m g i f t s ,

g o l d , i n c e n s e , a n d m y r r h ; a n d t h e y w o r s h i p p e d h i m a n d

o f f e r e d u n t o h i m t h e i r g i f t s . Then lady Mary took one

o f h i s s w a d d l i n g b a n d s a n d g a v e i t t o t h e m a s a l i t t l e

r e w a r d , a n d t h e y r e c e i v e d i t f r o m h e r w i t h g r e a t h o n o u r .

A n d t h e s a m e h o u r t h e r e a p p e a r e d u n t o t h e m a n a n g e l i n

t h e f o r m o f t h e s t a r w h i c h h a d b e e n t h e g u i d e o f t h e i r way

b e f o r e ; a n d f o l l o w i n g t h e l e a d i n g o f i t s l i g h t t h e y d e p a r t e d

i n t o t h e i r o w n c o u n t r y .

° 1 A n d t h e r e t h e k i n g s a n d t h e i r p r i n c e s c a m e t o t h e m

a s k i n g w h a t t h e y b a d s e e n o r d o n e , h o w t h e y h a d g o n e

and returned, what they had brought with them . And

they showed them the swaddling band which la dy Mary

b a d g i v e n t h e m ; w h e r e f o r e t h e y c e l e b r a t e d a f e s t i v a l , a n d

k i n d l e d f i r e a c c o r d i n g t o t h e i r c u s t o m a n d w o r s h i p p e d i t ,

a n d c a s t t h e s w a d d l i n g b a n d i n t o i t , a n d t h e f i r e s e i z e d i t

a n d a b s o r b e d i t i n t o i t s e l f . B u t w h e n t h e f i r e w e n t o u t ,

t h e y d r e w f o r t h t h e s w a d d l i ng b a n d j u s t a s i t w a s a t f i r s t ,

a s i f t h e f i r e h a d n o t t o u c h e d i t . T h e r e f o r e t h e y b e g a n t o



2 MY PILGRIMAGEk i s s i t , a n d t o p l a c e i t o n t h e i r h e a d s a n d e y e s , s a y i n g ,

V e r i l y t h i s i s u n d o u b t e d t r u t h ; i t i s i n d e e d a g r e a t t h i n g

t h a t t h e f i r e c o u l d n o t b u r n n o r d e s t r o y i t . T h e y t o o k i t

t h e n c e a n d w i t h t h e g r e a t e s t h o n o u r d e p o s i t e d i t a m o n g

t h e i r t r e a s u r e s . "

I t i s e v i d e n t f r o m t h e c o n t e x t t h a t t h i s l i t t l e t a l e h a s

b e e n i n s e r t e d f r o m s o m e f o r e i g n s o u r c e . T h e n e x t s e n -

tenc e begins, "Now when Herod saw tha t the Wise Men

h a d d e p a r t e d a n d n o t r e t u r n e d t o h i m , " b u t n o t h i n g i s

s a i d o f t h e i r h a v i n g s e e n H e r o d a t a l l . T h e i r s t a r - a n g e l

i s Z o r o a s t e r h i m s e l f , w h o s h i n e s t h r o u g h t h i s l e g e n d o f

p r i m i t i v e p i l g r i m s f r o m P e r s i a t r e a s u r i n g e v e n t h e s m a l l -

e s t n e w t r u t h w h i c h t h e i r f l a m e c o u l d a b s o r b b u t n o t c o n -

sume .

I h a v e d r e a m e d o f m i s s i o n a r i e s t r a v e l l i n g t o t h e E a s t

a s i f r e t u r n i n g t h i s v i s i t o f t h e W i s e M e n : t h e y s a y ,

" S h o w u s , 0 e l d e r b r o t h e r s , t h e s w a d d l i n g b a n d y o u r

f i r e c o u l d . n o t c o n s u m e , t h a t w e m a y p r e s s i t t o o u r e y e s

a n d l i p s ; f o r t h e b a n d s b o r n e w e s t a r e c o n s u m e d ! "

I t w a s i n s t u d y i n g t h e O r i e n t a l b o o k s i n m y y o u t h t h a t

I l e a r n e d t h a t i n a l l t h e e a r t h w e r e g r o w i n g t h e f l o w e r s

a n d f r u i t s o f t h e h u m a n h e a r t , c o n c e r n i n g w h i c h o n e W i s e

M a n s a i d , " K e e p t h y h e a r t a b o v e a l l t h a t t h o u g u a r d e s t ;

f o r o u t o f i t a r e t h e i s s u e s o f l i f e . "

O n M a y 1 , 1 8 5 9 , I p r e a c h e d i n C i n c i n n a t i a d i s c o u r s e

on " E a s t a n d W e s t , " m y t e x t b e i n g , " T h e n i g h t i s f a r

s p e n t , t h e d a y i s a t h a n d ; l e t u s t h e r e f o r e c a s t o f f t h e

w o r k s o f d a r k n e s s , a n d l e t u s p u t o n t h e a r m o r o f l i g h t . "

I t w a s a t t h e f i r s t a s s e m b l i n g o f t h e c o n g r e g a t i o n a f t e r

n e a r l y h a l f o f t h e m h a d l e f t u s t o f o u n d a n e w U n i t a r i a n

s o c i e t y , " The Churc h of the Redeemer . " Along with

m y p e r s o n a l d i s t r e s s a t p a r t i n g w i t h s o m a n y f r i e n d s w h o

c o u l d n o t f o l l o w m e i n m y r e p u d i a t i o n o f S u p e r n a t u r a l -



PROLEGOMENA 3

i s m , I s t i l l f e l t a s o r t o f r e l i e f i n h a v i n g n o f u r t h e r n e e d

f o r c o m p r o m i s e w i t h t h e P a s t . A l l t h e r a t i o n a l i s t s o f t h e

c i t y h a d c r o w d e d t o m y s i d e ; a n d i n t h e e n t h u s i a s m o f a

c r i s i s I s a i d : -

' ° T h e s u n o f c i v i l i z a t i o n r o s e i n t h e E a s t , a n d e v e r

journ eys Westward . A n d i t i s n o t a f a n c y , b u t a f a c t ,

t h a t H u m a n i t y , a s m u c h a s t h e e a r t h , i s d i vi d e d i n t o n i g h t

a n d d a y - h i s t o r i c a l l y , E a s t a n d W e s t . W h a t i s t h e d i f -

f e r e n c e o f n i g h t a n d d a y ? O n e i s t h e t i m e f o r d r e a m s ,

t h e o t h e r f o r r e a l i t i e s ; o n e h a s v i s i o n s , t h e o t h e r a c t u a l -

i t i e s . L e t u s n o t u n d e r v a l u e t h e N i g h t o u t o f w h i c h o u r

r a c e h a s e m e r g e d ; i t w a s a h e a l t h f u l a n d b e a u t i f u l s l u m -

ber which it found there, and by which it was m ade

s t r o n g f o r t h e d a y o f t o i l w h i c h a w a i t e d i t . S c i o l i s t s

speak of the ' d a r k a g e s , ' a s i f d a r k n e s s w e r e t h e s o l e

c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f t h o s e t i m e s . I t e l l y o u g l o r i o u s s t a r s

s h o n e , a n d s p l e n d i d w o r l d s r o l l e d o n t h e i r o r b i t s o f l i g h t ,

i n t h a t p r i m a l d a r k n e s s . I t w a s a t i m e o f d r e a m s , i n d e e d ,

b u t t h e y w e r e d r e a m s w h i c h t h e E a r t h e x i s t s a n d t o i l s t o

c a r v e i n t o r e a l i t y . I t w a s t h e m i s s i o n o f t h a t O r i e n t a l

w o r l d t o d r e a m , a n d i t f u l f i l l e d i t s m i s s i o n g r a n d l y : i t

dreamed out an Eden, a Golden Age ; i t c a u g h t t h e p e r -

f e c t v i s i o n w h i c h i s b e q u e a t h e d t o o u r D a y u n d e r t h e

n a m e o f C h r i s t i a n i t y . W e m a y s a f e l y j u d g e t h i s c h i l d -

hood of the world by the phenomena of our own indi-

v i d u a l c h i l d h o o d ; you know that in our childhood we

a r e n o t p r a c t i c a l , b u t b u i l d a i r c a s t l e s , y e t a t r u e m a n -

h o o d w i l l f o l l o w y o u t h ' s v i s i o n s . S o t h e O r i e n t a c h i e v e d

n o g r e a t p r a c t i c a l w o r k s ; its Edens and Ages of Gold

f a d e i n t o p o e m s u n d e r t h e a n a l y s i s o f h i s t o r y . These

g r a n d e u r s w e r e t h e r e a r i n g o f t h a t s k i l f u l a r c h i t e c t , I m -

a g i n a t i o n , o u t o f v e r y i n s i g n i f i c a n t m a t e r i a l s . B u t t h e r e

came a time of waning . V i s i o n s a n d s p e c u l a t i o n s g r e w



4 MY PILGRIMAGEf a i n t e r a n d f a i n t e r ; t h e m o o n a n d t h e s t a r s w e r e p a l i n g

i n t h e s k y . N o p r o p h e t c o u l d a d d a n o t h e r t i n t t o t h e l u n a r

r a i n b o w , w h i c h h o v e r e d w i t h m y s t i c l i g h t o v e r t h e y o u n g

w o r l d , b u t c o u l d o n l y t e l l o f g o l d e n t r e a s u r e s w h i c h t h e

f u t u r e w a s t o f i n d a t t h e r a i n b o w ' s e n d . The East h ad

g i v e n i t s m e s s a g e t o t h e w o r l d , a n d m u s t r e t i r e . "

T h e d o c t r i n a i r e p r o v i n c i a l i s m o f t h a t d i s c o u r s e i s e x -

c u s a b l e i n p a r t b y m y y o u t h , w h i c h w a s d i s p r o p o r t i o n a t e

t o m y t w e n t y - s e v e n y e a r s , b u t s t i l l m o r e b y t h e e x a l t a t i o n

i n w h i c h A m e r i c a n r e f o r m e r s w e r e a l l l i v i n g b e f o r e W a r

c a m e t o s h o w t h a t o u r i d e a l i z e d N e w W o r l d w a s t o r e p e a t

a n d i n t e n s i f y t h e b r u t a l r e g i m e o f E u r o p e . A f t e r t h e

t e r r i b l e d e c a d e I p u b l i s h e d ( 1 87 0 ) " The Ear thwar d Pil-

grimage . " I a l l o w e d t h e w o r k t o g o o u t o f p r i n t , w h e n i t

w a s h a v i n g a f a i r s a l e , b e c a u s e s o m e o f i t s s t a t e m e n t s

n o l o n ge r s a t i s f i e d m e . A t t h e r e q u e s t o f t h e R a t i o n a l i s t

P r e s s A s s o c i a t i o n i n L o n d o n I r e c e n t l y r e v i s e d t h e v o l -

u m e t o f i n d i f t h e p u b l i c a t i o n m i g h t n o t b e m a d e w i t h

s u p p l e m e n t a r y n o t e s , b u t c o n c l u d e t h a t t h e t a s k i s i m -

p o s s i b l e .

I n r e p o r t i n g " h o w I l e f t t h e w o r l d t o c o m e f o r t h a t

w h i c h i s , " m y c r i t i c i s m s o n t h e a b a n d o n e d d o g m a s a n d

d e l u s i o n s d o n o t s e e m u n f a i r , b u t t h e w o r l d i n t o w h i c h I

e n t r e a t e d p e o p l e t o f o l l o w m e i s n o t " t h a t w h i c h i s , " b u t

a m i r a g e o f t h e " C e l e s t i a l C i t y " thrown by Transcen-

d e n t a l i s m o n t h e h o r i z o n o f t h e w o r l d . M i l l e n n i a l d r e a m s

s u r v i v e i n m y n e c e s s i t a r i a n " p r o g r e s s , " m y d e i t y i s s t i l l

d y n a m i c a n d e x t e r n a l , t h e " c o l l e c t i v i s t " s u p e r s t i t i o n o f

s o m e d i v i n i t y i n m a s s e s o f m e n l i n g e r s ; a n d , w o r s t o f a l l ,

t h e r e p e r v a d e s t h e b o o k t h e f a t a l f a l l a c y t h a t e v i l i s g o o d

i n t h e m a k i n g .

There are indeed many pa ges which in a n emp irical

w a y , o r b y i m p l i c a t i o n , a r e i n c o n s i s t e n t w i t h t h e e r r o r s , a s



PROLEGOMENA 5

I now deem them ; a n d I a m r e m i n d e d b y t h e f i r s t c h a p -

t e r o f " The Earthwar d Pilgrimage " o f m y c o n s c i o u s n e s s

o f b e i n g f a r f r o m a n y s h r i n e i n t h e d i r e c t i o n I w a s t r a v e l -

l i n g . " T h e r e c a m e t o m e o n e w h o s p o k e w i t h a v o i c e n o t

t o b e d i s o b e y e d . He laid on me a burden, and ga ve me

a s h i e l d c a l l e d T r u t h , a n d s a i d : ' H e n c e f o r t h t h o u s h a l t

b e a p i l g r i m . F r o m a w o r l d b e l i e v i n g i n t h e i n c r e d i b l e ,

a d o r i n g w h e r e i t s h o u l d a b h o r , t h o u s h a l t d e p a r t n e v e r

t o r e t u r n . W h i t h e r , s h a l l b e o p e n e d t o t h e e a s t h o u s h a l t

j o u r n e y ; w h e n c e , i s a l r e a d y p l a i n . ' " The concluding

p a g e s o f t h a t f i r s t c h a p t e r , w r i t t e n o n t h e t h r e s h o l d o f m y

n e w w o r l d , m a y f a i r l y p r e f a c e t h e p r e s e n t w o r k , o r i g i n a l l y

p r e p a r e d a s a p a r t o f m y A u t o b i o g r a p h y : -

" T h e I n t e r p r e t e r l i t h i s c a n d l e a n d s a i d : 'Do you

r e m e m b e r t h e p i c t u r e I f o r m e r l y s h o w e d y o u , i n a p r i v a t e

r o o m , o f a v e r y g r a v e p e r s o n ? ' ' I d o , i n d e e d , ' I s a i d ;

' a n d t h i s w a s t h e f a s h i o n o f i t ; i t h a d e y e s l i f t e d u p t o

h e a v e n , t h e b e s t o f b o o k s i n i t s h a n d , t h e l a w o f t r u t h

w a s w r i t t e n u p o n i t s l i p s , t h e w o r l d w a s b e h i n d i t s b a c k ,

i t s t o o d a s i f i t p l e a d e d w i t h m e n , a n d a c r o w n o f g o l d

d i d h a n g o v e r i t s b e a d . ' ' T h a t p i c t u r e , ' h e s a i d , ' g r a d u -

a l l y b e c a m e s o d i n g y , t h a t o n c e , w h e n a n o l d a r t i s t c a m e

h i t h e r , I a c c e p t e d h i s o f f e r t o c l e a n a n d r e t o u c h i t ; you

s h a l l s e e i t a s h e l e f t i t . ' O n e n t e r i n g t h e w e l l - k n o w n

r o o m , I s a w t h a t t h e p o r t r a i t h a d b e e n c h a n g e d i n s e v e r a l

p a r t i c u l a r s . T h e g r a v e p e r s o n ' s e y e s n o w l o o k e d d o w n -

ward ; t h e b o o k , p a r t i a l l y c l o s e d , w a s p l a c e d o n o n e s i d e ;

a n d t h e w o r l d , w h i c h h a d b e e n b e h i n d , w a s n o w i m m e d i -

a t e l y u n d e r h i s e y e s , a n d c o v e r e d w i t h i n s c r i p t i o n s ; t h e

c r o w n o f g o l d s u s p e n d e d o v e r h i s h e a d h a d c h a n g e d t o

l u m i n o u s d u s t . W h e n I a s k e d t h e m e a n i n g o f t h i s c h a n g e ,

t h e I n t e r p r e t e r s a i d : ' I w i l l s h o w y o u a n e w s c e n e c o m -

m a n d e d b y t h i s h o u s e , w h i c h w i l l u n f o l d t h e s i g n i f i c a n c e



6 MY PILGRIMAGEo f t h e p i c t u r e . ' T h e r e u p o n , h e t o o k m e t o t h e t o p o f t h e

h o u s e , f r o m w h i c h c o u l d b e s e e n t h e t w o r i v a l c i t i e s . Whatw a s m y s u r p r i s e t o s e e a d a r k c l o u d g a t h e r e d o v e r t h e

C i t y o f O t h e r w o r l d l i n e s s , w i t h l i g h t n i n g s f l a s h i n g f r o m i t ,

w h i l e o v e r t h e s o - c a l l e d C it y o f D e s t r u c t i o n s h o n e a b e a u -

t i f u l r a i n b o w ! ' T h u s ,' s a i d t h e I n t e r p r e t e r , ' t h a t w h i c h

e x a l t e t h i t s e l f m u s t b e a b a s e d , a n d t h a t w h i c h h u m b l e t h

i t s e l f s h a l l b e e x a l t e d . T h e c i t y w h i c h , f r o m b e i n g t h e

d o m a i n o f t h e l o w l y f r i e n d o f m a n , t h e c a r p e n t e r ' s s o n ,

h a s b e e n g i v e n o v e r t o t h o s e w h o c a r e m o r e f o r b i s h o p r i cs

a n d f i n e l i v i n g s t h a n f o r m a n k i n d , h a s b e c o m e t h e C i t y o f

D e s t r u c t i o n ; w h i l e t h a t w h i c h h a s c a r e d r a t h e r f o r m a n

w h o m i t c a n , t h a n f o r G o d w h o m i t c a n n o t , b e n e f i t , h a s

become the City of Humanity, whic h shall endur e for

e v e r . '

1 1 T h e I n t e r p r e t e r t h e n s a i d t h a t , a s t h e r e w e r e u n h a p -

p i l y f e w p i l g r i m s a s y e t g o i n g i n m y d i r e c t i o n , h e w o u l d b e

a b l e t o a c c o m p a n y m e o n a p a r t o f t h e w a y . I w a s n o t s o

n e a r , h e s a i d , a s I m i gh t s u p p o s e . ' T h a t g r e a t m e t r o p o l i s

w h i c h y o u s e e i s n o t t h e c i t y y o u s e e k ; i t i s B o t h w o r l d s -

b u r g , a n d , t h o u g h c o m m e r c i a l l y c o n n e c t e d w i t h t h e C i t y

o f H u m a n i t y , o w n s a l l e g i a n c e t o t h e P r i n c e o f O t h e r w o r l d -

l i n e s s , w h o s e p o w e r f u l a g e n c i e s t h e r e i n a r e m a r k e d b y i t s

s p i r e s . I t s i n h a b i t a n t s p a s s s i x s e v e n t h s o f t h e i r t i m e i n

t h i s w o r l d , a n d d u r i n g t h e o t h e r s e v e n t h p r a y t o t h e i r

P r i n c e , a n d p r o t e s t l o u l d l y a g a i n s t t a k i n g a n y t h o u g h t a t

a l l f o r t h i s l i f e . T h e c o n f i n e s o f B o t h w o r l d s b u r g b l e n d

w i t h t h o s e o f t h e C i t y o f H u m a n i t y , w h i c h y o u c a n h a r d l y

t r a c e o u t f r o m h e r e , a n d , i n d e e d , m a y h a v e s o m e d i f f i c u l t y

i n f i n d i n g . You must go through the tedious p aths of

S t u d y , R e a l i t y , a n d D e v o t i o n , a n d w h e n y o u a r r i v e a t t h e

s u b u r b s y o u w i l l s t i l l h a v e t o b e a p i l g r i m a m i d m a n y

n i g h t s a n d d a y s b e f o r e y o u r e a c h t h e h e a r t o f t h e c i t y .



PROLEGOMENA 7

A f t e r a r r i v i n g t h e r e , y o u w i l l b e l e f t a g o o d d e a l t o y o u r

o w n g u i d a n c e : t h e i n h a b i t a n t s a r e v e r y b u s y ; t h e y d o n o t

s i t o n p u r p l e c l o u d s b l o w i n g g o l d e n t r u m p e t s . The only

p r a y e r t o t h e L o r d o f t h a t c i t y i s w o r k ; t h e o n l y p r a i s e

i s v i r t u e . I t s t r e a s u r e s a r e n o t o b v i o u s , b u t i n h a r d o r e s .

Y o u w i l l f i n d t h e p a v e m e n t s g o l d e n o n l y w h e n y o u c a n

t r a n s m u t e t h e m t o g o l d ; a n d o n l y i f y o u h a v e f o u n d a p e a r l

t o c a r r y i n y o u r o w n b r e a s t w i l l i t s g a t e s b e c o m e p e a r l . " '

W h e n a m i n d s t a r t s o u t u n d e r t h e i m p u l s e o f a r e l i g i o u s

s e n t i m e n t i n a d i r e c t i o n r a d i ca l l y d i f f e r e n t f r o m t h a t i n

w h i c h i t h a d b e e n t r a i n e d , i t i s n o t a r e v o l u t i o n b u t a n

e v o l u t i o n t h a t i s b e g u n . T h e i m p o r t a n t t h i n g i s n o t t h i s

o r t h a t i n c i d e n t o f e x p e r i e n c e , b u t t h e n e w w a y o f l o o k i n g

a t t h i n g s . Assuming that such a m ind would not break

w i t h i t s P a s t , i t s c i r c l e o f s y m p a t h i e s a n d f r i e n d s h i p s ,

e x c e p t f o r l o y a l t y t o t r u t h , a n d co n s e q u e n t l y n o t b e n d t h e

c o m m a n d i n g f a c t s t o s u i t p e r s o n a l p r e j u d i c e s o r i n t e r e s t s ,

i t c a n h a r d l y f a i l t o f i n d t h a t i t u n d e r g o e s a n e w b i r t h . I t

t h e n f o l l o w s s t e a d i l y t h a t i t s w h o l e m e n t a l e n v i r o n m e n t

m u s t b e c o m e n e w , - e v e n a s a n e a r l y a p o s t l e d i s c o v e r e d

t h a t i n C h r i s t n e i t h e r c i r c u m c i s i o n n o r u n c i r c u m c i s i o n

a v a i l e d a n y t h i n g , b u t a n e w c r e a t i o n . Thus my whole

l i t t l e w o r l d o f c o n c e p t i o n s m u s t b e r e v i s e d f r o m a n e w

s t a n d p o i n t .

H o w m a n y b o o k s a r e t o b e f o u n d w h i c h d e a l w i t h t h e

m e n t a l a n d m o r a l f a c t s o f h u m a n l i f e w i t h o u t p r e j u d i c e

a n d w i t h o u t e s t i m a t i n g t h e m b y s o m e t r a d i t i o n a l s t a n d -

ard or authority? How many travellers have told me

a b o u t E a s t e r n a n d O r i e n t a l r e l i g i o n s , - a b o u t C a t h o l i c s ,

Mormon s, Jews, or G 0 Pagan " s y s t e m s ,-i t h o u t m e r e l y

m e a s u r i n g t h e m b y t h e i r r e m o t e n e s s f r o m o r p r o x i m i t y t o

t h e i r o w n p a r t i c u l a r b e l i e f s ? H o w m a n y c a n t e l l m e , -w i t h o u t a n y t h o u g h t w h a t e v e r a b o u t w h a t t h e y t h i n k g o o d



8 MY PILGRIMAGEf o r t h o s e f o r e i g n " s o u l s , "-x a c t l y w h a t f r u i t s o f s i m p l e

h u m a n h a p p i n e s s t h o s e t r e e s a r e b e a r i n g f o r i n d i v i d u a l

hearts and homes ?

When one ceases to regard man kind as ma sses rushing

into prmternatural heavens a nd hells, the torments or

joys of human beings in this world become of suprem e

importance .

I n t e l l e c t u a l l y w e a l l n e c e s s a r i l y s t a n d o n t h e s h o u l d e r s

of the Past, but here too the revision must determine

w h e t h e r o u r s t a n d i s o n r e a l o r u n r e a l s h o u l d e r s . With

f a r l e s s l e a r n i n g t h a n t h e g r e a t w r i t e r s o n B u d d h a , Z o r o -

a s t e r , S o l o m o n , J e s u s , I w a s c o m p e l l e d t o b r i n g o n t h e m

t h e s e a r c h l i g h t o f m y s i m p l e e a r t h l y p o i n t o f v i e w , a p a r t

f r o m a l l a c a d e m i c o r t h e o l o g i c a l i n t e r p r e t a t i o n s , w h e t h e r

o f t h e i r w o r s h i p p e r s o r t h e i r a n t a g o n i s t s .

I n 1 8 8 2 a n i n v i t a t i o n w a s r e c e i v e d b y m e t o g i v e l e c -

t u r e s i n A u s t r a l i a . Two eminent gentlemen of Melbourne,

Rober t J . J e f f r a y a n d H e n r y G . T u r n e r , w h o o n o c c a s i o n a l

v i s i t s t o L o n d o n h a d a t t e n d e d m y c h a p e l , v o l u n t e e r e d t o

make a rran gements for the lectures ; my South Plac e

people were content that after near ly twenty years in

t h e i r s e r v i c e I s h o u l d e n j o y a v o y a g e r o u n d t h e w o r l d ,

l e c t u r e r s b e i n g a t h a n d t o t a k e m y p l a c e ; m y w i f e , w h o s e

mother (beloved of all who knew her) was able to stay

w i t h h e r , d e c i d e d t h a t I s h o u l d g o ; a n d s o , a f t e r b e i n g

honoured by our fellow-villagers of Bedford Park with

a d i n n e r , I f o u n d m y s e l f - J u l y 2 1 , 1 8 8 3 - on the ship

Arizon a boun d for New York .

I have always been healthy and hap py at sea, but on

t h a t b e a u t i f u l J u l y d a y w h e n w e p a s s e d o u t o f l a n d t h e r e

rolled from my shoulders a burden of which I ha d been

h a r d l y m o r e c o n s c i o u s t h a n o f t h e w e i g h t o f t h e a t m o s -

phere . Since my youth a public teacher, in the stormy



PROLEGOMENA 9

l i f e - v o y a g e o f m o r e t h a n t h i r t y y e a r s I h a d b e e n a s o n e o f

t h e c r e w a l w a y s u n d e r o r d e r s , a n d w i t h b u t f e w i n t e r v a l s

w h e r e i n I c o u l d e n j o y t h e e a s y c h a i r o f a p a s s e n g e r a n d

b e m y s e l f a l e a r n e r i n s t e a d o f a p r e a c h e r . And now at

f i f t y , h a v i n g r e a c h e d t h e c o n s c i o u s n e e d o f r e v i s i n g m y

b e l i e f s a n d t a k i n g s t o c k o f m y i d e a s , - l o , h e r e s h o n e

m y s p l e n d o u r o f o p p o r t u n i t y

I n o n e o f m y e a r l y y e a r s I b e c a m e c u r i o u s a b o u t t h e

i n f i n i t e s i m a l w o r l d , a n d , p r o v i d i n g m y s e l f w i t h a m i c r o -

s c o p e a n d s o m e b o o k s o n t h a t s t u d y , w a s s u f f i c i e n t l y

i n t e r e s t e d t o b e g i n a n e s s a y w h i c h I ca l l e d " The Circum-

n a v i g a t i o n o f a D e w - d r o p . " B u t I d i d n o t g e t f a r . The

d e w - d r o p w a s t o o d e e p f o r m e . O u t o f i t s w a r m e d s u r m i s e s

a b o u t t h e o r i g i n o f l i f e , t h e d e v e l o p m e n t o f f o r m s , a n d t h e

m o r a l m y s t e r i e s o f i n f u s o r i a l c o m b a t s a n d c a n n i b a l i s m .

F o r s u c h p r o b l e m s I h a d n o c o m p e t e n c y ; a n d a s f o r t h e

p h y s i ca l r e v e l a t i o n s o f t h e m i c r o s c o p e , I c o u l d o n l y r e c i t e

t h e d i s c o v e r i e s o f s c i e n t i f i c i n v e s t i g a t o r s . A n d i n t h e g r e a t

g l o b e w h i c h I w a s t o c i r c u m n a v i g a t e , h o w l i t t l e h a d I s e e n

e x c e p t t h r o u g h t h e e y e s a n d l e n s e s o f o t h e r s !

S o i t m i g h t c o n t i n u e i n m a t t e r s o f l a r g e i m p o r t , - t h e

p h y s i ca l , p o l i t i c a l , c o m m e r c i a l c o n d i t i o n s o f t h e c o u n t r i e s

t h r o u g h w h i c h I w a s t o t r a v e l . G r a t e f u l a m I t o s i t a t t h e

f e e t o f a n y m a s t e r , a n d n o t h i n g c o u l d g i v e m e m o r e h a p -

p i n e s s t h a n t o f i n d a m a s t e r i n t h e f i e l d t o w h i c h t h e e n -

e r g i e s o f m y l i f e h a v e b e e n g i v e n , - r e l i g i o n a n d r e l i g i o n s .

B u t h e r e i n m y r e s e a r c h e s a n d e x p e r i e n c e s g r a d u a l l y

developed eyes of my own . W h e t h e r t h e y a r e s t r o n g o r

f e e b l e , e x a c t o r i n e x a c t , t h e y a r e m y o w n o r g a n i c a l l y , m y

o n l y o n e s ; a n d i f t h e y c a n n o t w e i g h t h e f u l l v a l u e o f

w h a t t h e y s e e t h e r e i s a l w a y s t h e h o p e t h a t o t h e r s w i l l

d e r i v e f r o m a t r u t h f u l r e p o r t s o m e c o n t r i b u t i o n t o k n o w -

l e d g e ,- i f o n l y a n e x a m p l e o f v i s u a l p e r v e r s i t y !



1 0 MY PILGRIMAGEA c o m p a n y o f g e n t l e m e n t r a v e l l i n g i n a f a r c o u n t r y -

s a v a n t s , a r t i s t s , w r i t e r s -ca sually met together after

t h e y h a d t r a v e l l e d o v e r t h e s a m e r o a d , a n d t a l k e d a b o u t

what they had observed . One had a dded some ra re spe-

c i m e n s t o h i s c o l l e c t i o n o f b u t t e r f l i e s , b u t c o u l d n o t r e c a l l

t h e e x q u i s i t e l a n d s c a p e s o f w h i c h a n a r t i s t h a d s k e t c h e s ;

n o r h a d e i t h e r n o t i c e d t h e p e a s a n t s p h o t o g r a p h e d b y t h e

a n t h r o p o l o g i s t ; an d none of those remem bered seeing a

wondrous mirage which had been observed by another

of the compan y . While they were exchan ging their in-

t e r e s t i n g o b s e r v a t i o n s , i n n o c a s e t h e s a m e , a c h i l d p a s s e d

b y w i t h a f r a g m e n t o f y e l l o w - t i n t e d s t o n e i n i t s h a n d ; a

g e o l o g i s t p r e s e n t e x a m i n e d t h e s t o n e , s a w g o l d i n i t , w a s

g u i d e d b y t h e c h i l d t o t h e s p o t w h e r e i t w a s f o u n d , a n d

the compa ny formed themselves into a syndic ate to buy

u p a n e w g o l d d i s t r i c t .

E a c h o f u s h a s h i s o w n e x p e r i e n c e s , h i s p a r t i c u l a r t r a i n -

i n g o f c a r e s a n d t r i a l s , a p e r s o n a l h i s t o r y c o m b i n e d w i t h

h i s i n d i v i d u a l i t y ; e a c h o f u s s e e s r e a l l y o n l y w h a t h e h a s

a m i n d ( o f h i s o w n ) t o s e e . Even impressions that some

t h o u g h t c h i l d i s h h a v e p r o v e d t o b e o f e q u a l i m p o r t a n c e

with the most imposing phenomena .

I s a t o n t h e d e c k o f t h e A r i z o n a a n d r e a d a w o n d e r f u l

wo r k - "The Undisc overed Country," by W . D . How-

e l l s . It would have brought joy to Shakesp eare ha d he

f o r e s e e n t h a t w o r d s o f h i s o w n w o u l d m a k e t h e t i t l e o f a

book so veined with poetry an d wisdom . " Wisdom " i s

a w o r d o n e c o n n e c t s w i t h a m a n o r a b o o k l e s s f r e q u e n t l y

a s o n e g r o w s o l d e r; b u t i t i s s u r e l y a s e c r e t o f W i s d o m

t o s e e t h e r o m a n c e o f o u r t i m e w h i l e i t i s p a s s i n g . I t i s

e a s y t o r e c o g n i z e t h e f a i r y l a n d o f o u r c h i l d h o o d w h e n i t

i s i r r e v o c a b l y l o s t , e a s y t o r e c o g n i z e t h e r o m a n c e o f f o r e -

g o i n g g e n e r a t i o n s w h e n i t h a s w r i t t e n i t s e l f i n e v e n t s a n d



PROLEGOMENA 1 1

c o n t r a s t s :b u t w h o w i l l r e h e a r s e t h e r o m a n c e o f t h e h o u r

t h a t i s s h i n i n g ? I n t h i s n o v e l H o w e l l s t a k e s u p t h e s u -

p e r s t i t i o n s g r o u p e d u n d e r t h e n a m e o f S p i r i t u a l i s m , s h o w s

u s t h e d e p t h o f h u m a n t e n d e r n e s s t o w h i c h t h i s d e s p i s e d

t h i n g a p p e a l s , r e v e a l s t h e r e l i g i o u s s e n t i m e n t t h a t p l a y s

i n t o t h e h a n d s o f i m p o s t o r s .

I n a s e n s e , t h e w h o l e w o r l d i s m a i n l y a n u n d i s c o v e r e d

c o u n t r y . A n c i e n t S p i r i t i s m s , s y s t e m a t i z e d a n d g r o w n r e -

s p e c t a b l e , h i d e t h e r e a l i t i e s u n d e r v e i l s o f f a b l e e m b r o i d -

e r e d b y p o e t r y a n d a r t . Naked truth is a shamed . And

t h e r e i s p a t h o s i n t h i s . H a d t h e r e a l e a r t h b e e n s w e e t

a n d m a t e r n a l , m a n k i n d w o u l d n o t h a v e w o v e n f o r i t t h o s e

v e i l s l u s t r o u s w i t h l o v e s a n d g r a c e s , a n g e l s a n d m a d o n n a s .

T h r o u g h r e n t s i n t h e v e i l s m a d e b y s c i e n c e t h e r e a l i t y

r e v e a l e d i n g l i m p s e s i s s o c o l d a n d h a r d t h a t e v e n t h e

d i s i l l u s i o n e d m u s t u s e t h e i l l u s i o n s ( q u a s i - p a t h o l o gi c a l l y )

f o r t h e i r u r g e n t e f f e c t s . I n H o w e l l s ' s n o v e l t h e t w o H a r -

v a r d s c h o l a r s d e t e c t t h e l o v e l y " m e d i u m , " b u t a r e d i s -

arm ed, and even ma de virtual acc omplices, when they

d i s c o v e r t h a t s h e i s t h e r e a l o n e i n m o r t a l c o m b a t f o r t h e

l i f e o f h e r f a t h e r , s a v e d f r o m f a t a l d e s p a i r b y h e r p r e -

tended messages from his dead wife . The sympathetic

y o u t h s r e p r e s e n t a l l s c i e n t i f i c s c e p t i c s i n t h e i r t e n d e r n e s s

f o r t h e i l l u s i o n s t h a t a r e h a p p y . Bi g o t r y i s n o t s o t e n d e r ,

b u t e a g e r t o r e d u c e t o t a t t e r s a l l v e i l s b u t i t s o w n , e s p e -

c i a l l y i f t h e o t h e r s a r e p r e t t y .

T o u t c o m p r e n d r e c ' e s t t o u t p a r d o n n e r . I n a n u n d i s -

c o v e r e d w o r l d w e d o n o w a n d t h e n , f o r t u n a t e l y , d i s c o v e r

e a c h o t h e r-n d i v i d u a l l y -a n d e s p e c i a l l y w h e n o u t o f

o u r h a b i t a t . O n t h e A r i z o n a t h e f a m o u s C a t h o l i c , M o n -

s e i g n e u r C a p e l , t o o k e v i d e n t p l e a s u r e i n p r o m e n a d i n g

w i t h a n e m i n e n t J e w i s h w r i t e r ; a n e v a n g e l i s t g o i n g o u t

t o a s s i s t r e v i v a l i s t M o o d y c h a t t e d p l e a s a n t l y w i t h t h e



12 MY PILGRIMAGEa c c o m p l i s h e d a c t r e s s , G e o r g i e C a y v a n , w i t h o u t w a r n i n g

h e r t h a t o n t h e s t a g e s h e w a s c h a r m i n g c r o w d s t o h e l l .

A B a l t i m o r e D o c t o r o f D i v i n i t y , a w a r e o f m y h e r e s i e s ,

c o n v e r s e d w i t h m e w i t h o u t t h e l e a s t " h o l i e r - t h a n - t h o u "

a c c e n t . I n a v i s i o n I s a w t h e C a t h o l i c M o n s e i g n e u r l e a p

a t t h e J e w ' s t h r o a t , a n d t h e D o c t o r o f D i v i n i t y p r e p a r i n g

a s t a k e -t h e e v a n g e l i s t b r i n g i n g f a g g o t s a n d f i r e - f o r

m y p o o r h e r e t i c a l s e l f. B u t S t e a m i s a c o m r a d e o f L a t i -

t u d i n a r i a n i s m . T h e a n c i e n t p e r s e c u t o r s n e v e r e x p e r i e n c e d

l o n g v o y a g e s a w a y f r o m t h e i r c o n v e n t i c l e s , w i t h n o n - e l e c t

c o m p a n i e s a n d s c h i s m a t i c s , t h r o u g h f o g s , n e a r i c e b e r g s ,

a m i d o c e a n w a s t e s , w i t h o n l y a t h i n p a r t i t i o n s e p a r a t i n g

t h e m a n d t h e i r o p p o n e n t s f r o m a c o m m o n a b y s s .

G o e t h e s a i d t o a f r i e n d t h a t b e b e l i e v e d i n i m m o r t a l i t y

b u t d i d n o t w i s h t o e n j o y i t w i t h t h e p e o p l e w h o b e l i e v e i n

i t h e r e . C o u l d w e a l l c o n t e n t o u r s e l v e s w i t h o n e w o r l d a t

a t i m e w e c o u l d f r a t e r n i z e o n o u r p l a n e t a s o n a l a r g e r

s h i p f l o a t i n g t h r o u g h s p a c e , i t s p a s s e n g e r s r a c e s a n d

n a t i o n s , a l l e a g e r t o g e t a t e a c h o t h e r ' s w i t a n d w i s d o m ;

e v e n a s a t a n e n t e r t a i n m e n t o n t h e A r i z o n a o u r o r t h o d o x

D o c t o r o f D i v i n i t y , i n p r e s i d i n g , i n v i t e d t h e J e w , t h e

C a t h o l i c , t h e a c t r e s s , a n d t h e h e r e t i c t o a m u s e t h e c o m -

p a n y , - i n v i t e d u s w i t h a c o r d i a l i t y w h i c h g a v e m y s t i c a l

s i g n i f i c a n c e t o h i s o p e n i n g w o r d s : " We feel secure on

t h i s s h i p , t h a n k s t o t h e h e a v e n l y F a t h e r ; but on some

o t h e r s h i p s p e o p l e a r e n o t s o s a f e ! "

A h , i f t h i s a m i a b l e D o c t o r o f D i v i n i t y c o u l d o n l y a t t a i n

t o t h e i d e a o f a h e a v e n l y F a t h e r w a t c h i n g a s v i g i l a n t l y

an d lovingly over the Buddhist ship, - the Brahm an ,

M o s l e m , P a r s i , C o n f u c i a n s h i p s , - a s o v e r t h e " S h i p o f

Z i o n " b e a r i n g h i m a n d h i s c o - r e l i g i o n i s t s ! t h e s u n t o r i s e

o n t h e m , t h e w i n d s t o w a f t , t h e w a v e s t o s u p p o r t t h e m !

I t s e e m s t h a t P r o t e s t a n t i s m , t h e r e l i g i o n o f t h e m o s t



PROLEGOMENA 1 3 '

p o w e r f u l r a c e , h a s b e c o m e t h e o n l y o n e t h a t e x c l u d e s a n y

h u m a n b e i n g f r o m t h e p a t e r n a l c a r e o f i t s d e i t y . The

R o m a n C a t h o l i c C h u r c h h a s s o u n i v e r s a l i z e d i t s P u r g a -

t o r y t h a t t h e d o c t r i n e o f a n e t e r n a l h e l l h a s v i r t u a l l y

d i m i n i s h e d i n t o a n a n t i q u a t e d p h r a s e . Parsism even in

the time of Zoroaster prophesied the conversion of

A h r i m a n , a s J u d a i s m d i d t h a t o f L e v i a t h a n . Educated

C h r i s t i a n s do n o t b e l i e v e i n t h e o l d h e l l , n o r i n t h e e t e r -

n i t y o f a n y k i n d o f m i s e r y , b u t t h e t e n a c i t y w i t h w h i c h

t h e y m a i n t a i n t h e o l d t e r r o r s i n c a t e c h i s m a n d c r e e d

p r o v e s t h a t t h e i r '° r e l i g i o n " d o e s n o t a i m o r h o p e f o r a

h a p p y e a r t h . H a p p i n e s s i s r e s e r v e d f o r a n o t h e r w o r l d .

B u t h a s n o t t h i s w o r l d a s m u c h r i g h t t o h a p p i n e s s a s

a n y o t h e r ? U n h a p p i n e s s i s t h e r o o t o f a l l e v i l . From it

s p r i n g s m e a n n e s s , v i c e , c r i m e , b i t t e r n e s s , i n j u s t i c e. Hap-

p i n e s s i s t h e s a c r e d s p i r i t , t h e m o t h e r o f v i r t u e s . W h a t

i m a g i n a b l e f u n c t i o n h a s r e l i g i o n e x c e p t t o p r o m o t e h u m a n

h a p p i n e s s ? I f t h e r e b e a u n i v e r s a l H e a r t i t s u f f e r s f r o m

e v e r y h u m a n s i g h a n d t e a r , i t b l e e d s w i t h e v e r y f a l l i n g

s p a r r o w , i t " a n s w e r e t h m a n i n t h e j o y o f h i s h e a r t . "



CHAPTER I

T h e C u l t o f P a t r i o t i s m -Rober t G. Ingersoll-A black m ark on the

D e c l a r a t i o n o f I n d e p e n d e n c e - P i l g r i m a g e s t o V i r g i n i a -T h e o r i g i n a l

a b o r i g i n e s -T h e f i r s t c h u r c h i n N o r t h A m e r i c a-C r u e l t i e s o f c o l o n i -

z a t i o n -C h r i s t m a s r e u n i o n s o f r e v o l u t i o n a r y v e t e r a n s -A Song of

S e v e n t y - s i x -Mary Washington -S e a m y s i d e o f t h e R e v o l u t i o n .AS we were enter ing New York ha rbour on e of the

wealthiest Americans came out on his fine steam-

yacht an d carr ied off his returning son . This young

man had been such a genial and unpretending comrade

o n o u r v o y a g e t h a t i t w a s o n l y w h e n w e w e r e a p p r o a c h i n g

t h e f i g u r e o f L i b e r t y t h a t h e r t o r c h e n l i g h t e n e d u s a s t o

her remoteness from Equality, the lesson being further

impressed upon us-the millionless and ya chtless -by

o u r s l o w p r o g r e s s t h r o u g h t h e C u s t o m s .

B u t t h e i n e q u a l i t y c r e a t e d b y p e c u n i a r y c o n d i t i o n s i s

n o t a l l t o t h e a d v a n t a g e o f t h e m i l l i o n a i r e . The com-

par atively impecunious are sure to invest him, without

respect to his merits or demerits, with an unpleasing

r e p u t a t i o n . I n e v e r m e t t h i s m i l l i o n a i r e , b u t w a s t o l d b y

honourable and well-informed business men that he was

an irrep roachable domestic char acter, not luxurious or

self-indulgent, forbearing and generous towards those

with whom he had dealings, and that like Dives in the

p a r a b l e b e w a s p o p u l a r l y c o n s i g n e d t o a b a d p l a c e s i m p l y

b e c a u s e h e w a s r i c h .

In New York my two sons, who had settled there, had

made pleasant plans for me, and I remained long enough

to meet eminent men ; am ong them John Jay, Cyrus



1 6 MY PILGRIMAGEF i e l d , William an d Joseph C h o a t e , Whitelaw R e i d ,

E v a r t s , S t e d m a n , Y o u m a n s , G o d k i n , G i l d e r , C h a r l e s A .

Dana, Randolph Robinson, Horace White . I f o u n d t h e m

a l l o p t i m i s t s i n t h e i r v i e w o f p u b l i c a f f a i r s . North a nd

S o u t h w e r e n o w h a n d i n h a n d , t h e y s a i d , a n d m u n i c i p a l

c o r r u p t i o n i n N e w Y o r k n e a r l y a t a n e n d .

A t t h a t t i m e t h e J i n g o d i d n o t e x i s t i n A m e r i c a : i n

E u r o p e o n e m i g h t o c c a s i o n a l l y m e e t c o u n t r y m e n w h o p a i d

t r i b u t e f o r p a s s i n g m o s t o f t h e i r t i m e a b r o a d b y l o u d

e n c o m i u m s o f e v e r y t h i n g i n A m e r i c a a n d d i s p a r a g e m e n t

of "the Old World . " O n e o f t h e s e , a c u l t u r e d g e n t l e m a n

f r o m M a s s a c h u s e t t s , a b a c h e l o r o f s o m e w e a l t h , p a s s e d

h i s t i m e w i t h l i t e r a r y m e n a n d a r t i s t s i n E u r o p e . Onc e

w h e n w e w e r e d i n i n g t o g e t h e r i n P a r i s b e b r o k e o u t w i t h

d e n u n c i a t i o n s o f E u r o p e a s a c e n t u r y b e h i n d A m e r i c a ,

a n d I s a i d , " My friend, I have been m eeting you, an d

a l w a y s g l a dl y , f o r t w e n t y - f i v e y e a r s , b u t n e v e r i n A m e r i c a .

I t i s a l w a y s i n L o n d o n , P a r i s , o r i n R o m e . Even when I

h a v e b e e n o c c a s i o n a l l y i n B o s t o n a n d h a v e i n q u i r e d f o r

y o u , t h e y h a v e r e p o r t e d y o u i n E u r o p e . How can you

b e a r t o a b s e n t y o u r s e l f f r o m t h a t p e r f e c t c o u n t r y ? "

After a few moments he whispered : " T h e f a u l t i s n o t

i n A m e r i c a , b u t i n m e ; I a m n o t g o o d e n o u g h t o l i v e i n

America ! "

F o r m y s e l f , i t w a s a t a m o m e n t w h e n I w a s n o t w a r l i k e

e n o u g h f o r A m e r i c a , a s r e l a t e d i n m y A u t o b i o g r a p h y , t h a t

I was tra nsplanted to London . Always retainin g my

A m e r i c a n c i t i z e n s h i p , I y e t c o u l d n o t c o n c e i v e o f a c o u n t r y

a s l o v a b l e a p a r t f r o m t h e p e o p l e i n i t . T h e r e s u r v i v e s i n

u s t h e i n s t i n c t t h a t l e a d s a b i r d t o b r o o d o n i t s e g g s ; but

a s i t i s n o t s u p p o s a b l e t h a t t h e b i r d h a s a n y m a t e r n a l

s e n t i m e n t t o w a r d s a n e g g , i t s e e m s h a r d l y n a t u r a l t h a t

a n y e n t h u s i a s m s h o u l d a r i s e i n a n a t i o n f o r t h e i n a n i m a t e



THE CULT OF PATRIOTISM 1 7

m a t e r i a l s o u t o f w h i c h i t s p o p u l a t i o n i s p r o d u c e d . I n e a r l y

youth I was possessed by a passionate love of Virginia

b e c a u s e t h e S t a t e w a s p e r s o n i f i e d a s t h e f a i r " Mother of

States and of Statesmen," a nd was denounced by North-

e r n p e o p l e b e c a u s e o f S l a v e r y , -which had become our

n e w r e l i g i o n . W h e n I g a v e u p t h a t r e l i g i o n I w a s a b l e t o

a n a l y z e " p a t r i o t i s m , " a n d r e c o g n i z e t h a t i t w a s l a r g e l y a

c u l t . An ancient Persian said, " D i v e r s i t i e s o f r e l i g i o n

have divided the world into seventy-two nations ." Our

p r o s l a v e r y r e l i g i o n e n d e a v o u r e d t o a d d a n o t h e r . So soon

a s t h e g o d s m i n g l e i n h u m a n d i s c u s s i o n s s o u l i s s u n d e r e d

f r o m s o u l . T h e s t o r y o f B a b e l l o o k s l i k e a p o e t i c f a b l e

b y w h i c h s o m e p r i m i t i v e s c e p t i c c o n v e y e d h i s t h e o r y t h a t

man kind worked together har moniously to build up civ-

i l i z a t i o n , b u t w h e n t h e y r e a c h e d a p o i n t w h e r e d i s p u t e s

about gods arose they could no longer understand each

other, and all their ac hievement went to ruin . Each

b u i l d e r s u r r o u n d e d h i s g o d w i t h s o m e " s a c r e d s o i l " an d

d e f e n s i v e f r o n t i e r s , a n d w h e n h e h a d p e r s u a d e d o r t e m p t e d

others to join him , and others had been compelled to

c o m e i n , t h e c u l t o f " p a t r i o t i s m " a r o s e . All enthusiasm

f o r o n e ' s c o u n t r y n o t b a s e d o n t h e w i s e a n d j u s t m e n a n d

w o m e n i n i t , a n d t h e f r e e d o m a n d h a p p i n e s s o f i t s i n h a b -

i t a n t s , i s o f a r t i f i c i a l c u l t i v a t i o n . A n d f o r t h a t v e r y r e a s o n

p a t r i o t i s m , i n t h i s e g o i s t i c s e n s e , i s a b l e t o o v e r p o w e r

n a t u r a l i n s t i n c t s a n d e m o t i o n s ; j u s t a s a r e l i g i o u s c u l t

i n a l l t i m e h a s s h o w n i t s p o w e r t o t r a i n m e n t o w o r s h i p

and fight for cruel deities whom their unsophisticated

sentiment would abhor .

T h e n a t u r a l e v o l u t i o n o f p a t r i o t i s m w o u l d b e t o c o n s i d e r

i t a s t h e e x p a n s i o n o f t h e f a m i l y s e n t i m e n t . I t i s n o t a n

e g o i s t i c b u t a n u n s e l f i s h f e e l i n g w h i c h c a u s e s u s t o b e

e s p e c i a l l y c o n c e r n e d w i t h t h a t w h i c h i s w i t h i n o u r r e a c h ,



1 8 MY PILGRIMAGEa n d f o r w h i c h w e a r e t o s o m e e x t e n t r e s p o n s i b l e . A c h i l d

r u n o v e r a t m y d o o r , o r a m u r d e r n e a r m y r e s i d e n c e , p r o -

d u c e s a m o r e p r o f o u n d e m o t i o n i n m e t h a n t h e d e s t r u c t i o n

of multitudes in some distant land . I t i s a n a r t i f i c i a l

p a t r i o t i s m w h i c h l e a d s m e n t o n a t i o n a l e x p a n s i o n s d i c -

t a t e d b y p r i d e , a n d i t i s a l s o a s u b v e r s i v e p a t r i o t i s m w h e n

i t l e a d s t o a g g r e s s i o n s f o r t h e s a k e o f a n y n a t i o n a l i n t e r e s t .

The gentlemen whom I have mentioned as ha ving met in

New York, some of my ea rly frien ds, had like myself

m e m o r i e s o f t h e y e a r s w h e n a s b o y s w e l i t p a t r i o t i c b o n -

f i r e s f o r o u r c o u n t r y ' s c r i m i n a l v i c t o r i e s o v e r M e x i c o ; we

remembered well the glories gained by our flag by the

m a s s a c r e s o f o u r p o o r a b o r i g i n e s ; a n d h o w p a t r i o t i s m h a d

summoned us to r un with the bloodhounds to hunt men

and women escap ing from slavery and return them to

bon da ge . It could not occur to any of them that in a

few years that same kin d of patriotism would summon

u s t o r e j o i c e i n a r e p e t i t i o n o n S p a i n o f t h e o u t r a g e o n

M e x i c o , o r t o b e e l a t e d w h e n , a f t e r f r e e i n g f o u r m i l l i o n s

o f c o l o u r e d p e o p l e , w e s h o u l d p r o c e e d t o p u r c h a s e t e n m i l -

l i o n s o f t h e m , a n d s l a y a n d t o r t u r e t h e m i n t o s u b m i s s i o n .

S t i l l l e s s c o u l d a n y o f u s i m a g i n e t h a t t h e a r t i f i c i a l c u l t i va -

t i o n a n d c u l t o f f l a g - w o r s h i p c o u l d b l i n d o u r n a t i o n a s a

w h o l e t o t h e m o n s t r o u s a b s u r d i t y t h a t w e s h o u l d a s s u m e

c o n t r o l o v e r a n y f o r e i g n-s p e c i a l l y a n y c o l o u r e d - race

when we are una ble to protect our own negro citizens

f r o m b e i n g f r e e l y s l a i n a n d e v e n b u r n e d a l i v e .

I t w a s i n e v i t a b l e t h a t a n o l d s t u d e n t o f l i t e r a t u r e a n d

art should estimate a c ountry by its great men an d

women, - t h i n k e r s , w r i t e r s , a r t i s t s , - to whom he could

look up . Many of those at whose feet I had sat in

A m e r i c a w e r e d e a d , a n d A m e r i c a n a r t w a s t o s u c h a n e x -

t e n t t r a n s p l a n t e d t o E u r o p e t h a t i t w a s d i f f i c u l t t o s e t



ROBERT G . INGERSOLL 1 9

m y n a t i v e l a n d a b o v e E n g l a n d a n d F r a n c e ; b u t i t s e e m e d

a s u f f i c i e n t c o m p e n s a t i o n f o r t h e l o s s o f t h e h i g h p e a k s i f

t h e p l a i n s w e r e s m i l i n g w i t h f i n e h a r v e s t s . I w a s a s s u r e d

b y g o o d o b s e r v e r s t h a t t h e A m e r i c a n p e o p l e w e r e r e c e i v i n g

b e t t e r w a g e s a n d l i v i n g i n h a p p i e r h o m e s t h a n t h e m a s s e s

o f a n y o t h e r c o u n t r y , t h a t t h e y w e r e b e i n g e d u c a t e d , a n d

t h e r e m u s t s p r i n g u p a r a c e o f t h i n k e r s g r e a t e r t h a n o u r

l o s t m a s t e r s .

I t w a s a s t a g e i n m y p i l g r i m a g e t o v i s i t i n h i s h a n d -

some ma nsion in New York a m an who had for som e

t i m e a p p e a r e d t o m e t h e m o s t s t r i k i n g f i g u r e i n r e l i g i o u s

Americ a,- Robert G . I n g e r s o l l . Many years before a

y o u n g r e l a t i v e o f m y w i f e , W i l l i a m J e n c k e s , b a d s e n t m e

to London a book on "The Gods," appa rently ma de up

o f o c c a s i o n a l a d d r e s s e s b y I n g e r s o l l . H e w a s t h e n s t y l e d

C o l o n e l I n g e r s o l l b e c a u s e o f h i s s e r v i c e s i n t h e U n i o n

W a r , a n d b e h a d a l s o b e e n a m e m b e r o f C o n g r e s s . I n o n e

o f t h e s e l e c t u r e s b e h a d s a i d , " A n h o n e s t G o d i s t h e n o -

b l e s t w o r k o f m a n , " w h i c h b e c a m e a s o r t o f W e s t e r n p r o -

v e r b . I n 1 8 8 1 , b e i n g o n a v i s i t t o B o s t o n , m y w i f e a n d I

f o u n d o u r s e l v e s i n t h e P a r k e r H o u s e w i t h t h e I n g e r s o l l s ,

a n d w e n t o v e r t o C h a r l e s t o w n t o h e a r h i m l e c t u r e . His

s u b j e c t w a s " T h e M i s t a k e s o f M o s e s , " a n d i t w a s a m e m -

o r a b l e e x p e r i e n c e . O u r l o s t l e a d e r s ,-m e r s o n , T h o r e a u ,

Theodore Parker , - w h o h a d r e a l l y s p o k e n t o d i s c i p l e s

r a t h e r t h a n t o t h e n a t i o n , s e e m e d t o h a v e c o n t r i b u t e d

s o m e t h i n g t o f o r m t h i s o r g a n b y w h i c h t h e i r v o i c e c o u l d

r e a c h t h e p e o p l e . E v e r y v a r i e t y o f p o w e r w a s i n t h i s o r a -

t o r ,-o g i c a n d p o e t r y , h u m o u r a n d i m a g i n a t i o n , s i m -

p l i c i t y a n d d r a m a t i c a r t , m o r a l e a r n e s t n e s s a n d b o u n d -

l e s s s y m p a t h y . T h e w o n d e r f u l p o w e r w h i c h W a s h i n g t o n ' s

a t t o r n e y - g e n e r a l , E d m u n d R a n d o l p h , a s c r i b e d t o T h o m a s

P a i n e o f i n s i n u a t i n g h i s i d e a s e q u a l l y i n t o l e a r n e d a n d



20 MY PILGRIMAGEunlearned had passed from Paine's pen to Ingersoll's

tongue . T h e e f f e c t o n t h e p e o p l e w a s i n d e s c r i b a b l e . The

- l a r g e t h e a t r e w a s c r o w d e d f r o m p i t t o d o m e . The people

w e r e c a r r i e d f r o m p l a u d i t s o f h i s a r g u m e n t t o l o u d l a u g h -

t e r a t h i s h u m o r o u s s e n t e n c e s , a n d h i s f l e x i b l e v o i c e c a r r i e d

t h e s y m p a t h i e s o f t h e a s s e m b l y w i t h i t , a t t i m e s m o v i n g

t h e m t o t e a r s b y h i s p a t h o s .

T h a t w h i c h e s p e c i a l l y a t t r a c t e d m e i n I n g e r s o l l ' s l e c -

t u r e s a n d p a m p h l e t s w a s t h a t h i s a f f i r m a t i o n s w e r e c o n -

veyed by negations . My friend and r elative, Moncure

R o b i n s o n , S r . , o f P h i l a d e l p h i a , r e c o g n i z e d t h e g r e a t p o w e r

o f I n g e r s o l l , b u t d e p l o r e d i t s b e i n g u s e d t o p u l l d o w n

w i t h o u t b u i l d i n g u p . B u t I f o u n d t h a t w h a t m y v e n e r a b l e

f r i e n d w a s t h i n k i n g o f w a s n o t t h e d e s t r u c t i o n o f d o g m a s

o r o f c r e e d s , b u t h i s f e e l i n g t h a t c h u r c h e s w e r e v a l u a b l e i n -

s t i t u t i o n s , a n d t h a t I n g e r s o l l d i d n o t e v e n a t t e m p t t o f o u n d

a n y i n s t i t u t i o n t h a t c o u l d a s s i s t i n t h e s p i r i t u a l c u l t u r e

a n d c h a r i t i e s o f w h i c h f a m i l i e s b a d n e e d . B u t I f e l t t h a t

t h i s w a s t h e o n l y k i n d o f w o r k t h a t c o u l d b e d o n e r e a l l y

by free thought . W e r e i t t o b u i l d u p a n y i n s t i t u t i o n i t

m i g h t b e f o u n d e d o n s c i e n t i f i c d o c t r i n e s n e c e s s a r i l y t r a n -

s i e n t , a n d i m i t a t e t h e p i o u s h a b i t b y f o r t i f y i n g a n d d e -

f e n d i n g s o m e p a r t i c u l a r f o r m o f u n b e l i e f .

The perfect fr eedom of Ingersoll's mind was often

i l l u s t r a t e d i n h i s l e c t u r e ; a s f o r i n s t a n c e , a f t e r h a v i n g

c i t e d f r o m t h e B i b l e s o m e n a r r a t i v e o f t e r r i b l e c r u e l t y

a s c r i b e d t o t h e c o m m a n d o f J e h o v a h , h e p a u s e d f o r n e a r l y a

m i n u t e , t h e n l i f t i n g h i s h a n d a n d l o o k i n g u p w a r d h e s a i d

s o l e m n l y , "I t r u s t t h a t G o d , i f t h e r e b e a G o d , w i l l t a k e

n o t i c e t h a t I a m d o w n h e r e o n e a r t h d e n o u n c i n g t h i s l i b e l

o n h i s c h a r a c t e r . "

T h e c o u n t r y w a s f u l l o f i n c i d e n t s a n d a n e c d o t e s r e l a t -

i n g t o t h e s e m a r v e l l o u s l e c t u r e s . O n c e w h e n h e w a s l e c t u r -



INGERSOLL'S PLEA Q l

ing at San Francisco on a Sunday evening in a crowded

t h e a t r e , s o m e m a n i n t h e a u d i e n c e c r i e d , " D o y o u b e l i e v e

in baptism? " I n g e r s o l l r e p l i e d g o o d - n a t u r e d l y , " Y e s ,-e s p e c i a l l y w i t h s o a p ! "

L o n g b e f o r e h i s r e p u t a t i o n a s a f r e e t h i n k e r w a s m a d e

h e w a s n o t e d i n t h e W e s t f o r h i s g r e a t a b i l i t y i n d e f e n d -

i n g p e r s o n s i n d a n g e r o f i n j u s t i c e . George Hoadly, for -

mer governor of Ohio, told me that on one occa sion he

defended an humble man c harged with manslaughter,

which had occurred in some broil . I n g e r s o l l c a m e i n t o

c o u r t a n d a f t e r l i s t e n i n g t o t h e p r o s e c u t i o n a r o s e a n d s a i d ,

" On m y way to this room I stopped a t the house of a

poo r wo m a n . She had been confined while her husband

w a s i n p r i s o n - t h e p r i s o n e r a t t h e b a r . The . w o m a n l a y

o n h e r b e d w i t h t h e i n f a n t b e s i d e h e r , a n d w i t h t e a r s i n

h e r e y e s s h e s a i d t o m e , ` Send me ba c k m y husba nd ; h e

is a good husband, a good father, an industrious man .

Oh, send me bac k my husband ! ' " T h e r e w a s a m o m e n t ' s

s i l e n c e a f t e r I n g e r s o l l s a i d t h i s i n h i s t e n d e r v o i c e , a n d

t h e n o n e o f t h e j u r y c r i e d o u t , " By God, Bob, we'll do

i t ! "

I n g e r s o l l n e v e r s t a r t e d o u t i n l i f e t o b e a l e a d e r o f f r e e

thought . H e w a s a v e r y a b l e l a w y e r , a n d b y h i s p r o f e s -

sion gained reputation and wealth ; h i s r e l i g i o u s i c o n o -

clasm was incidental. I n h i s e x p e r i e n c e i n m a n y S t a t e s

h e s a w m u c h o f t h e p r o v i n c i a l n a r r o w n e s s a n d i n t o l e r a n c e

arising from what he considered superstition, and now

a n d t h e n i n t h e i n t e r v a l s o f t h e c o u r t s i t t i n g s h e w o u l d

s p e a k t o s m a l l c l u b s o f s e c u l a r i s t s o r a d m i r e r s o f T h o m a s

Paine ; t h e s e a d d r e s s e s f o u n d t h e i r w a y t o t h e p u b l i c a n d

e x c i t e d p u l p i t d e n u n c i a t i o n s , a n d a s h e w a s a l w a y s r e a d y

t o a n s w e r , h i s a u d i e n c e s s w e l l e d u n t i l i t w a s d i f f i c u l t t o

g e t a s e a t i n t h e a l w a y s c r o w d e d t h e a t r e s .



22 MY PILGRIMAGET h e r e w a s n o t h i n g o f t h e s c o f f e r a b o u t I n g e r s o l l ; h e d i d

n o t f l i n g e p i t h e t s , b u t a r g u e d h i s c a s e b e f o r e t h e c r o w d a s

i f t h e y w e r e j u d g e s a n d j u r y m e n . I n a l l t h e l e c t u r e s o f

his which I have heard I remarked the chastity of his

mind and speech . E v e n a t t h e c o s t o f a s t r o n g p o i n t h e

w o u l d a v o i d d w e l l i n g o n b i b l i c a l d e t a i l s w h i c h h e t h o u g h t

obscene . O f c o u r s e h e d i d n o t f a i l t o a s s e r t t h a t t h e r e

w e r e s u c h p a s s a g e s , a n d i n a n s w e r t o c l e r g y m e n c o n t e n d -

i n g t h a t m o r a l i t y d e p e n d e d o n t h e B i b l e , I n g e r s o l l s a i d ,

" I w i l l g i v e a n y r e s p e c t a b l e c l e r g y m a n a t h o u s a n d d o l l a r s

i f h e w i l l r e a d t o h i s c o n g r e g a t i o n o n - S u n d a y e v e r y w o r d

o f a c h a p t e r I s h a l l s e l e c t f r o m t h e B i b l e . " T h i s c h a l l e n g e

w a s o f c o u r s e n o t a c c e p t e d , a n d i t w a s a b l o w a l l t h e m o r e

e f f e c t i v e b e c a u s e o f t h e o r a t o r ' s a l w a y s u n b l e m i s h e d p e r -

s o n a l c h a r a c t e r a n d h i s c h a r i t i e s .

T h e r e w e r e s e v e r a l m o n t h s d u r i n g w h i c h a n a i l m e n t o f

t h e t h r o a t p r e v e n t e d I n g e r s o l l f r o m s p e a k i n g i n p u b l i c .

C u r i o s i t y a n d i n t e r e s t i n t h e S o u t h l e d m e t o a n a s s e m b l y

in Brooklyn met to welcome a Southern reviva list,-Rev . Sam Jones, -who said in his a ddress, "The only

w a y w i t h i n f i d e l s i s t o s t o p t h e i r t a l k i n g ; a t o u c h o n t h e

throat of Ingersoll "-a burst of laughter from the

p r e a c h e r s p r e s e n t e n d e d t h e s e n t e n c e . It was something

l i k e t h e s c e n e i n L u c i a n w h e r e t h e g o d s d e s c e n d t o a t t e n d

invisibly a debate on their own existence between two

Athenia ns . T h e a t h e i s t g e t t i n g t h e b e t t e r o f t h e a r g u -

m e n t , t h e c h a m p i o n o f t h e g o d s b r e a k s o u t w i t h p e r s o n a l

v i t u p e r a t i o n , m u c h t o t h e d e l i g h t o f Z e u s , w h o s a y s , " That

i s t h e w a y ! when you try to argue you are dumb a s a

f i s h ! " T h e r e b e i n g n o p o s s i b i l i t y o f p e r s o n a l a b u s e i n

I n g e r s o l l ' s c a s e , t h i s r e v i v a l i s t s u g g e s t s t o J u p i t e r t h e

o n l y m e t h o d b y w h i c h t h e g r e a t l a w y e r ' s a r g u m e n t s c o u l d

be met, - s t r a n g u l a t i o n . B u t m e a n w h i l e I n g e r s o l l i n h i s



[ L e t t e r J r o m R o b e r t G . I n g e r s o l l ]

/001

/Coo



INGERSOLL AND WHITMAN 2 3

e n f o r c e d r e p o s e w a s p r e p a r i n g , a n d w a s p r e s e n t l y d e l i v e r -

i n g , l e c t u r e s m o r e f o r m i d a b l e t h a n e v e r .

I was somewhat am used by Mrs . F a r r e l l , w h o i n h e r

b o u n d l e s s d e v o t i o n t o h e r b r o t h e r c o n f i d e d t o m e t h a t s h e

had remarked that"

e v e r y p u b l i c s p e a k e r w h o h a d d e -

f a m e d R o b e r t h a d s o m e h o w c o m e t o a b a d e n d : " No doubt

t h i s l a d y, a v e r y s p i r i tu e l l e a n d a t t r a c t i v e f r e e t h i n k e r , h a s

i n h e r m i n d s o m e c h a i n o f c a u s e a n d e f f e c t i n t h e p h e n o -

mena,- o f w h i c h s h e m e n t i o n e d s e v e r a l e x a m p l e s ,-ut

i t r e c a l l e d t h e w i d e s p r e a d f e e l i n g o f Th o m a s P a i n e ' s c o m -

r a d e s , t h a t h i s m a n y e s c a p e s f r o m i m m i n e n t d e a t h w e r e

s o m e h o w p r o v i d e n t i a l . B u t t h e r e i s n o d o u b t w h a t e v e r

a b o u t t h e s p e c i a l p r o v i d e n c e t h a t s u r r o u n d e d I n g e r s o l l i n

his own home . A s a t H a r v a r d D i v i n i t y S c h o o l w e u s e d

t h e t i t l e o f P r o f e s s o r A n d r e w s N o r t o n ' s b o o k a n d d e s c r i b e d

h i s d a u g h t e r s a s t h e 11 E v i d e n c e s o f C h r i s t i a n i t y , " t h e

h a p p y f a c e s o f t h o s e l o v e l y l a d i e s , -w i f e , d a u g h t e r s , s i s t e r ,-a n d t h e d o m e s t i c h a p p i n e s s o f I n g e r s o l l h i m s e l f , w e r e

w i d e l y f e l t a s e v i d e n c e s o f t h e b e n i g n i n f l u e n c e s o f f r e e -

t h o u g h t . I n d e e d , i t c o u l d n o t f a i l t o b e r e m a r k e d i n h o w

m a n y t e n d e r a n d t o u c h i n g p a s s a g e s i n h i s l e c t u r e s w e r e

r e f l e c t e d t h e f a m i l y a f f e c t i o n s o f t h i s l a r g e - h e a r t e d o r a t o r .

O n I n g e r s o l l ' s l a s t v i s i t t o W a l t W h i t m a n , -to whom

h e w a s b o u n t i f u l , - h e s a i d , " W a l t , t h e m i s t a k e o f y o u r

l i f e w a s t h a t y o u d i d n o t m a r r y . There ought to be a

w o m a n h e r e , " h e a d d e d , l o o k i n g a r o u n d a t t h e p o o r c h a -

o t i c r o o m . ( I n g e r s o l l ' s a d d r e s s a t t h e f u n e r a l o f W a l t

W h i t m a n w a s t h e g r a n d e s t a n d m o s t i m p r e s s i v e u t t e r a n c e

o f t h a t k i n d w h i c h I h a v e e v e r h e a r d . )

O n e v e r y i n t i m a t e i n t h e f a m i l y t o l d m e t h a t w h e n e v e r

o n e o f t h e m a p p l i e d f o r m o n e y , I n g e r s o l l n e v e r a s k e d

h o w m u c h , o r w h a t i t w a s f o r , b u t p o i n t e d t o a d r a w e r

a n d s a i d , 1 1 T h e r e i t i s ; h e l p y o u r s e l f . "



24 MY PILGRIMAGEI h a v e g o n e f a r a h e a d o f t h e y e a r w h e n I f i r s t t a l k e d

w i t h I n g e r s o l l i n h i s o w n h o m e . M y c a l l h a d n o p u r p o s e

except to pa y some homage to the ablest freethinker

America has produced . I r e m e m b e r n o t h i n g o f o u r c o n -

v e r s a t i o n e x c e p t t h a t h e s u r p r i s e d m e b y h i s t h o r o u g h

k n o w l e d g e o f S h a k e s p e a r e . H e i n t e r e s t e d m e a l s o b y s o m e

o f h i s c o n j e c t u r e s ; f o r i n s t a n c e , t h a t t h e h a b i t o f c l o s i n g

t h e e y e s i n p r a y e r m a y h a v e o r i g i n a t e d i n p r a y e r s t o t h e

d a z z l i n g s u n . I d i d n o t a g r e e w i t h s o m e o f I n g e r s o l l ' s

o p i n i o n s , b u t I h a d r e c o g n i z e d t h e h a t r e d s w e l l i n g a g a i n s t

a m a n o f g e n i u s , - m o r e r e l i g i o u s i n m y s e n s e t h a n t h e

o l d p r e a c h e r , h i s f a t h e r , - a n d I kn e w t h a t h e w a s l e a d i n g

a n i n s u r r e c t i o n o f h u m a n h e a r t s a g a i n s t t h e i n h u m a n i t i e s

o f t h e B i b l e a n d t h e c r u e l t i e s o f d o g m a t i c p r o p a g a n d i s m .

I d i d n o t , h o w e v e r , t h e n i m a g i n e i t p o s s i b l e t h a t o r t h o d o x

h a t r e d c o u l d e v e r s o o v e r r i d e t h e o l d t r a d i t i o n s o f r e l i -

g i o u s l i b e r t y i n A m e r i c a a s t o c o m p e l I n g e r s o l l t o r e s i g n

t h e n o m i n a t i o n a s m i n i s t e r t o G e r m a n y , c o n f e r r e d o n h i m

b y P r e s i d e n t H a y e s .

At Washington I took a long look at the original

d r a f t o f t h e D e c l a r a t i o n o f I n d e p e n d e n c e , a n d e s p e c i a l l y

n o t e d t h e l o n g b l a c k m a r k o f J e f f e r s o n ' s p e n c a n c e l l i n g

the paragrap h denouncing negro slavery . That ma rk,

d i c t a t e d b y S o u t h C a r o l i n a a n d G e o r g i a , w i d e n e d i n l e s s

t h a n t h r e e g e n e r a t i o n s i n t o t h e v a s t b a t t l e f i e l d w h e r e

f r o m S o u t h C a r o l i n a w a s f i r e d t h e f i r s t g u n . T h e c h i e f

c e n t r e o f t h a t b a t t l e f i e l d w a s t h e r e g i o n o f V i r g i n i a I w a s

a b o u t t o v i s i t . I f o u n d t h e r e t h a t t h e p e o p l e h a d n o l o n g e r

a n y h a t r e d o f t h e N o r t h , a n d t h a t t h e w h i t e s a n d b l a c k s

w e r e d w e l l i n g t o g e t h e r p e a c e a b l y a n d k i n d l y . T h e p l a g u e

o f l y n c h i n g h a d n o t y e t b r o k e n o u t e v e n i n t h e f a r S o u t h

( a n d i n d e e d i t h a s n e v e r r a v a g e d V i r g i n i a ) . On myt w o p r e v i o u s v i s i t s s i n c e t h e w a r i t s t r a c e s o n t h e c o u n t r y



VIRTUAL OUTLAWRY 2 5

w e r e m o r e v i s i b l e t h a n i n 1 8 8 3 ; t h e f i e l d s w e r e n o w m o r e

s m i l i n g . B u t s o m e h o w t h e d e s o l a t i o n o f t h e i n h a b i t a n t s

a p p e a r e d g r e a t e r . O l d a g e s e e m e d t o h a v e o v e r s w i f t l y

come upon them . G e o r g e S a n d ' s g r a n d m o t h e r , s p e a k i n g

o f h e r h u s b a n d , t w i c e h e r a g e , s a i d h e n e v e r g o t o l d . " I n

t h o s e d a y s F r e n c h g e n t l e m e n n e v e r g o t o l d ; i t w a s t h e

R e v o l u t i o n t h a t b r o u g h t o l d a g e i n t o F r a n c e . "

T h e p e r s o n a l e v e n t s t h a t s t r i k e d e e p e s t i n a m a n w o r k

o u t t h e i r e f f e c t s s l o w l y . T h e t r e e w h o s e r o o t l i g h t n i n g

h a s t o u c h e d m a y s e e m u n s c a t h e d , b u t a f t e r s o m e m o n t h s

t h e f o l i a g e l o s e s t h e o l d f r e s h n e s s , a n d i n a n o t h e r s e a s o n

i t s t a n d s b a r e a m i d t h e f l o u r i s h i n g g r o v e . T h e m y s t e r i o u s

a n d i n d e f i n a b l e l i g h t n i n g t h a t t o u c h e d t h e i n n e r m o s t l i f e

i n m e w a s t h e v i r t u a l o u t l a w r y I s u f f e r e d i n 1 86 3 f o r h a v -

i n g p r o p o s e d t o a b a n d o n t h e w a r a g a i n s t t h e C o n f e d e r a t e s

o n c o n d i t i o n o f a g u a r a n t e e d e m a n c i p a t i o n o f a l l t h e i r

s l a v e s . T h e r e w e r e j u s t t w o v o i c e s t h a t c a m e t o m e f r o m

A m e r i c a d e c l a r i n g t h a t I w a s r i g h t , - t h a t o f m y w i f e

and that of the Hon . M a r t i n F . C o n w a y , w h o h a d j u s t

l o s t h i s s e a t i n C o n g r e s s f o r o p p o s i n g t h e w a r i n t h e i n -

t e r e s t o f j u s t i c e t o b o t h b l a c k a n d w h i t e . Those whose

friendship I valued much were not unfriendly . L 0 Wek n o w y o u a r e s i n c e r e a n d y o u r h e a r t r i g h t , b u t w e h a v e

a c o u n t r y n o w , w e g l o r y i n t h e U n i o n w e o n c e w i s h e d t o

dissolve, we worship what we had bur ned, an d we see

t h a t y o u a r e f o l l o w i n g a d e l u s i o n ! " S u c h i n s u b s t a n c e

w a s w h a t m y o l d a n t i - s l a v e r y c o m r a d e s s a i d . That I had

c o m m i t t e d a m i s t a k e i n s u p p o s i n g t h a t t h e y w o u l d n o t s u p -

p o r t a w a r m e r e l y f o r t h e s a k e o f a p o l i t i c a l o r t e r r i t o r i a l

U n i o n i t w a s e a s y t o c o n f e s s . F o r t h e s a k e o f m y f a m i l y

I b e n t b e f o r e t h e s t o r m . B u t t h e w o r k o f t h e l u r i d f l a s h

t h a t c a m e o u t o f m e c o u l d n o t b e u n d o n e . I w a s d r i v e n

- y e s , d r i v e n - b y e v e r y f o r c e o f m i n d a n d h e a r t i n t o



2 6 MY PILGRIMAGEm y s e l f . I w a s c o m p e l l e d t o t h e p a i n f u l a n d h u m i l i a t i n g

c e r t a i n t y t h a t t h e w h o l e w o r l d w a s w r o n g . M y h e a r t a n d

m i n d h a d n o r e l a t i o n t o a U n i o n t h a t r e q u i r e d a h a l f m i l -

l i o n h u m a n s a c r i f i c e s f o r i t s c o n t i n u a n c e . My coun try

t h e n w a s n o t o f t h i s w o r l d , n o r y e t o f a n y h e a v e n l y w o r l d .

W h a t t h e n c o u l d I d o b u t s e t m e d o w n i n L o n d o n a n d

from 1 1 t h e l i t t l e c h a p e l i n m y o w n m i n d " p r e a c h t o t h e

large chapel of reasoning and humane men and women

w h o d e s i r e d m y m i n i s t r y ?

T h e r e l i t t l e b y l i t t l e t h e h o p e -a l m o s t t h e f a i t h-g r e w t h a t t h e p e a c e f u l a n d h a p p y c o u n t r y w a s f o r m i n g

o n e a r t h . B u t a l o n g w i t h t h i s c a m e a n a w a k e n e d i n t e r e s t

i n t h e P a s t , i n t h e d r e a m s t h a t l e d t h e o l d v o y a g e r s , a s

sung by Tennyson in 1 ° U l y s s e s , " t h e c o l o n i s t s w h o b u i l t

up hap py comm unities before the revolutionary demon

h a d t a k e n p o s s e s s i o n o f t h e w o r l d . M y o w n n a t i v e S t a t e ,

V i r g i n i a , w a s a l a n d o f o l d r o m a n c e s , o n e o f w h i c h i n -

s p i r e d m e t o i m a g i n e t h e t a l e w h i c h o p e n s m y C h r i s t m a s

v o l u m e , 1 1 A N e c k l a c e o f S t o r i e s " ( 1 8 8 0 ) . T h e t a l e e n t i t l e d

" T h e I n v i s i b l e Q u e e n " r e l a t e s t o t h e l o s t V i r g i n i a c o l -

o n y ( 1 5 8 7 - 1 5 9 1 ) , a n d t o V i r g i n i a D a r e , t h e f i r s t E n g l i s h

c h i l d b o r n i n A m e r i c a ( A u g u s t 1 8 , 1 5 8 7 ) . S e v e n E n g l i s h

y o u t h s y a c h t i n g i n t h a t r e g i o n a r e l e d b l i n d f o l d by

merry Indian maidens from their yac ht, The F a n c y ,

t o t h e i n t e r i o r o f a n i s l a n d , -"Croatan," -a nd find

there an idea l city founded by Eleanor Dare a nd her

d a u g h t e r V i r g i n i a , - t h e o n l y p e r s o n s ( a c c o r d i n g t o m y

tale) preserved by the Indians when t h e y d e s t r o y e d

t h e c o l o n y o f 1 5 8 9 . 1The letters C R 0 (supp osed to

m e a n C r o a t a n ) c a r v e d o n a p o s t , h a d b e e n t h e o n l y s i g n

l e f t i n t h e p e r i s h e d E n g l i s h s e t t l e m e n t n e a r l y t h r e e h u n -

t The coincidence of my p lot and some details with Mr. Rider Haggard' s

She ( 1 8 8 6 ) i s c l o s e e n o u g h t o c o n s t i t u t e o n e o f t h e c u r i o s i t i e s o f l i t e r a t u r e .



THE ABBE' S DREAM 27

d r e d a n d f i f t y y e a r s b e f o r e t h e s e v e n y o u t h s w e r e l e d t o

t h e b e a u t i f u l c i t y o f t h e s a m e n a m e . T h e y l i v e d t h e r e

f o r a t i m e i n p e r f e c t h a p p i n e s s , b u t d u t i e s c a r r i e d t h e m

back . T h e y e a r s b r i n g t h e m f a m i l y a n d f a m e , b u t i n e a c h

h o u s e h o l d , a n d e a c h h e a r t o f w i f e a n d c h i l d , t h e r e i s a

l e g e n d a n d d r e a m o f t h e h a p p y i s l a n d . A n d f i n a l l y t h e

c o a s t - s t e a m e r , T h e I r o n C i t y , s t a r t s o u t f r o m B a l t i m o r e

w i t h a n E n g l i s h p a r t y-h e s e v e n a n d t h e i r w i v e s a n d

c h i l d r e n - t o v i s i t C r o a t a n . F o r d a y s t h e y e x p l o r e i s l a n d

a f t e r i s l a n d , b u t ' t h e p o o r a n d r a g g e d p e o p l e o n t h e m

n e v e r h e a r d o f a n y C r o a t a n a n d s a y t h e r e h a v e b e e n n o

I n d i a n s i n t h a t r e g i o n f o r a h u n d r e d y e a r s .

S o m e e x c u r s i o n i s t s i n t h e Y e l l o w s t o n e P a r k r e m a r k e d

a C a t h o l i c a b b e w h o w a s a n i n d e f a t i g a b l e s i g h t - s e e r ,

a n d a t t r a c t e d e v e r y o n e b y h i s s o c i a b i l i t y a n d i n t e l l i g e n c e.

S i r N o r m a n L o c k y e r , I t h i n k , w a s a l o n g , a n d e x p r e s s e d

h i s p l e a s u r e a t m e e t i n g a n a b b e s o o b s e r v a n t a n d j o y -

o u s . T h e C a t h o l i c c o n f i d e d t o h i m a c u r i o u s d r e a m ; he

h a d d i e d , a n d f o u n d h i m s e l f a t t h e g a t e o f h e a v e n ; when

a b o u t t o a s k a d m i s s i o n t h e s a d r e f l e c t i o n c a m e t o h i m

t h a t h e h a d h a r d l y s e e n a n y t h i n g o f t h e c o u n t r y i n w h i c h

h e h a d b e e n l i v i n g . The thought awakened him, a nd he

a t o n c e p a c k e d h i s t r u n k .

M y o w n r e f l e c t i o n , o n t h e e v e o f v i s i t i n g o t h e r h e m i -

s p h e r e s , w a s t h a t e v e n n a t u r a l l y o b s e r v a n t e y e s c a n s e e

i n y o u t h b u t l i t t l e o f w h a t i s a r o u n d t h e m , b e c a u s e t h e y

a r e s e t t o s t u d y d e a d l a n g u a g e s a n d n a t i o n s , a n d s e t t o

dream ing of the gates of Heaven . When I f i r s t m e t

S i r C h a r l e s L y e l l a n d s a i d s o m e t h i n g a b o u t c o m i n g t o

s e e t h e O l d W o r l d , h e s a i d i t m i g h t y e t b e s h o w n t h a t

A m e r i c a i s t h e o l d e s t w o r l d . H e m e a n t g e o l o g i c a l l y , b u t

i n a f t e r y e a r s , r e a d i n g t r a d i t i o n s o f t h e V i k i n g s a n d V i n -

l a n d , a n d t h e l e t t e r s o f C o l u m b u s , I q u e r i e d w h e t h e r



2 8 MY PILGRIMAGEE d e n , s o f a r a s a c t u a l , w a s n o t v e r i t a b l y i n m y n a t i v e

r e g i o n w h e r e m y t a l e h a d f i x e d t h e I n d i a n U t o p i a . . For

E d e n i s w h e r e l o v e a n d i n n o c e n c y a n d p e a c e a r e . The

n a t i v e s w h o m C o l u m b u s f o u n d w e r e , a s h e w r o t e , " a l o v -

i n g u n c o v e t o u s p e o p l e , s o d o c i l e i n a l l t h i n g s t h a t I a s -

s u r e y o u r H i g h n e s s t h a t I b e l i e v e i n a l l t h e w o r l d t h e r e

i s n o t a b e t t e r p e o p l e o r a b e t t e r c o u n t r y ; t h e y l o v e t h e i r

n e i g h b o u r s a s t h e m s e l v e s , a n d t h e y h a v e t h e s w e e t e s t a n d

g e n t l e s t w a y o f t a l k i n g i n t h e w o r l d , a n d a l w a y s w i t h a

s m i l e . " T h i s i n H i s p a n i o l a . A t S a n S a l v a d o r " t h e y h a d

m u c h f r i e n d s h i p f o r u s , " " t h e y n e i t h e r c a r r i e d a r m s n o r

u n d e r s t o o d s u c h t h i n g s , " " t h e y a r e o f g o o d u n d e r s t a n d -

i n g ." At the Rio de Mares the houses " made of palm

b r a n c h e s w e r e v e r y b e a u t i f u l , " " a n d w i t h i n w e r e v e r y

c l e a n , a n d t h e i r f i t t i n g s i n g o o d t a s t e." Elsewhere-G° T h e s e I n d i a n s a r e v e r y g e n t l e , w i t h o u t k n o w i n g w h a t

e v i l i s , n e i t h e r k i l l i n g n o r s t e a l i n g . "

" I b e l i e v e , " w r i t e s C o l u m b u s a g a i n , " t h e y w o u l d e a s -

i l y b e c o n v e r t e d t o C h r i s t i a n i t y , f o r i t a p p e a r e d t o m e

t h e y h a d n o c r e e d . " B u t , a l a s , C o l u m b u s h a d n o i d e a o f

j u d g i n g t r e e s b y t h e i r m o r a l f r u i t s . H e w a s s e e k i n g t h e

e n c h a n t e d l a n d o f P r e s t e r J o h n - P r e s b y t e r J o h n , i. e .

a g e d J o h n , t a r r y i n g t i l l t h e L o r d c o m e , i n a p a l a c e o f u n -

i m a g i n a b l e s p l e n d o u r . Some mediaeval wag had hoaxed

t h e w o r l d w i t h a l e t t e r t o t h e P o p e s i g n e d b y t h i s f i ct i t i o u s

J o h n d e s c r i b i n g h i s t h r o n e o f d i a m o n d s i n t h e l a n d o f g o l d ,

s u r r o u n d e d b y m i r r o r s , i n w h i c h h e c o u l d s e e w h a t w a s

b e i n g d o n e i n e v e r y p a r t o f t h e g l o b e . T h i s l e t t e r w a s

t a k e n s e r i o u s l y , a n d t o t h e m y t h i c a l m o n a r c h C o l u m b u s a c -

t u a l l y b r o u gh t a l e t t e r o f i n t r o d u ct i o n p e n n e d b y t h e h a n d

o f Q u e e n I s a b e l l a . T h e n a m e o f P r e s t e r J o h n h a d d i s a p -

p e a r e d b e f o r e t h e t i t l e H o m b r e d e t a m a n o , " t h e g r e a t

m a n , " w h i c h s u r v i v e s i n t h e S t . Tamm an y of New York .



THE FIRST CHURCH IN AMERICA 2 9

This St. Tamma ny, on whom had so stran gely fallen

t h e m a n t l e o f t h e b e l o v e d d i s c i p l e , w a s a s a n i n d i v i d u a l

f a b u l o u s , b u t h e w a s t h e t y p i c a l r e p r e s e n t a t i v e o f a l l t h a t

g e n t l e n e s s a n d h u m a n i t y o f t h e r a c e s w h i c h w e r e f o u n d

n o t o n l y b y C o l u m b u s b u t b y t h e f i r s t s e t t l e r s o f V i r -

g i n i a . T h e t r a g e d i e s w h i c h C o l u m b u s i n i t i a t e d i n t h e

S o u t h e r n i s l a n d s , b y t u r n i n g t h e g e n t l e n a t i v e s i n t o g o l d

by enslaving them under the pretext of making them

C h r i s t i a n s , b a d s p r e a d t e r r o r a l l a l o n g t h e c o a s t , a n d t o

t h a t i n h u m a n i t y w e r e d u e t h e t r a g i c a l e v e n t s w h i c h o c -

c u r r e d i n t h i s s a m e V i r g i n i a n e i g h b o u r h o o d w h e r e t h e s e

n o t e s w e r e m a d e .

I am convinced that Maryland was named after the

m o t h e r o f J e s u s b y t h e S p a n i a r d s w h o f i r s t d i s c o v e r e d

the Chesapeake a nd n amed it the Bay of Santa Maria ;

and that Virginia was not named after the ' v i r g i n '

Queen Elizabeth, but for the Virgin Mary . T h e f i r s t

c h u r c h b u i l t i n o u r c o u n t r y w a s " t h e l o g c h a p e l o n t h e

Rappa hannock," about 1572 . T h e I n d i a n n a m e f o r V i r -

g i n i a w a s l a c a n , a n d t h e c h a p e l w a s d e d i c a t e d t o " La

M a d r e d e D i o s d e l a c a n . " I t m a y h a v e s t o o d w h e r e o u r

l i t t l e t o w n o f F a l m o u t h n o w s t a n d s , f o r F a t h e r S e g u r a

a n d h i s l i t t l e c o m p a n y o f p r i e s t s a n d f i v e n a t i v e c o n v e r t s

j o u r n e y e d u p t h e R a p p a h a n n o c k t o a v i l l a g e , a n d p r o b -

a b l y t h e l a r g e s t o n t h e r i v e r w a s n e a r t h e f a l l s . One of

t h e " c o n v e r t s , " a b r o t h e r o f t h e k i n g o f I a c a n , c h r i s t e n e d

D o n L u i s d e V e l a s c o , h a d b e e n c a r r i e d o f f y e a r s b e f o r e

t o S p a i n ( 1 5 6 6 ) . I t l o o k s a s i f t h i s c o n v e r s i o n h a d b e e n

u n d e r c o e r c i o n , f o r s o o n a f t e r h i s r e t u r n a s a m i s s i o n a r y

D o n L u i s r e s u m e d h i s a b o r i g i n a l c h a r a c t e r : t h e e n t i r e

m i s s i o n w a s e x t e r m i n a t e d , - i n C a t h o l i c t r a d i t i o n m a s s a -

c r e d , - e x c e p t o n e n a t i v e ( C u b a n ) c o n v e r t , c h r i s t e n e d

A l p h o n s u s , o n w h o s e e v i d e n c e e i g h t o f t h e I a c a n s w e r e



3 0 MY PILGRIMAGEbanged by Menendez to the yarda rm some years later . I t

i s s a i d t h a t t h e r e s t i l l e x i s t s i n s o m e s a c r i s t y i n H a v a n a

t h e c r o s s w h i c h a l o n e w a s s a v e d f r o m t h e l o g c h a p e l .

I n t h e m o r e c r u e l t i m e o f A n g l o - S a x o n c o l o n i z a t i o n i n

V i r g i n i a t h e o n l y l i v i n g M a d o n n a w a s t h e I n d i a n p r i n c e s s

c a l l e d P o k a h u n t a s , w h o r e p e a t e d l y r e s c u e d t h e w h i t e s f r o m

t h e r e t r i b u t i o n r i c h l y d e s e r v e d . One of m y unc les, John

Moncure of Carmora, na med a son Powhatan, a nd wished

to name a daughter Pokahuntas, - this not being done

b e c a u s e t h e n a m e w a s f o u n d t o b e a n e p i t h e t i n v e n t e d b y

t h e w h i t e s , t h e r e a l n a m e b e i n g A m o n a t e . I t r i e d t o t r a c k

t h i s e x q u i s i t e l a d y i n a l l o f t h e r e c o r d s o f t h e t i m e a n d

g r a d u a l l y r e a c h e d t h e p a i n f u l a n d h u m i l i a t i n g c o n c l u s i o n

t h a t s h e w a s n o t t h e e x c e p t i o n a l p e r s o n a g e s h e w a s g e n e r -

ally supposed to be, but the fair type of a gentle and

i n t e l l i g e n t a s w e l l a s c o m e l y a n d s h a p e l y r a c e . The people

found by Columbus in Cuba a nd by Menendez in Florida

a n d e l s e w h e r e w e r e s i m i l a r l y k i n d a n d a t t r a c t i v e . These

h a p p y a n d h o s p i t a b l e p e o p l e s h a v e b e e n s t e a d i l y d e s t r o y e d

b y o u r w h i t e r a c e , w h i c h n o w j u d g e s t h e A m e r i c a n a b o r i -

g i n e s b y t h e r e d m a n o f t o - d a y . But this contempora ry

r e d m a n i s n o t t h e c r e a t i o n o f n a t u r e b u t o f t h e A n g l o -

S a x o n a n d t h e S p a n i a r d , w h o b y t h e i r m a s s a c r e s l e f t t h e

o n l y s u r v i v o r i n t h i s s i l e n t , g r i m , i r r e c o n c i l a b l e f i g u r e .

H e i s t h e m o n u m e n t o f t h e i n n u m e r a b l e t r i b e s t h a t h a v e

p e r i s h e d , b u t w h o m i g h t h a v e c o n t r i b u t e d t o o u r E n g l i s h

blood an element of geniality an d unselfishness which

would have ma de the America n something better than a

reproduction of the Englishman . A s i t i s , w e a r e l i k e

o u r f a t h e r s , g o i n g t h r o u g h t h e w o r l d t u r n i n g o n c e h a p p y

i s l a n d s a n d c o a s t s i n t o c e m e t e r i e s a n d c a l l i n g i t c i v i l i z a -

t i o n a n d c h r i s t i a n i z a t i o n .

M y p i l g r i m a g e s i n V i r g i n i a w e r e t o h i s t o r i c s p o t s i n



"THE SENTRY BOX" 3 1

w h i c h I h a d t a k e n l i t t l e i n t e r e s t i n b o y h o o d a n d a f t e r -

w a r d s w a s t o o d e e p l y i n t h e c u r r e n t o f a f f a i r s t o t h i n k o f ,

u n t i l n o w t u r n e d f i f t y . I s t r o l l e d o v e r t h e f a r m a s s o c i a t e d

w i t h l e g e n d s o f W a s h i n g t o n ' s c h i l d h o o d , w h i c h r e a l l y r e -

p o r t w i t h m o r e v e r a c i t y t h e c h i l d h o o d o f h i s c o u n t r y . I

v i s i t e d t h e o l d h o m e s t e a d C h a t h a m , s o n a m e d b y W a s h -

i n g t o n ' s f r i e n d W i l l i a m F i t z h u g h i n h o n o u r o f t h e e a r l

w h o b a d s o e l o q u e n t l y d e f e n d e d t h e r i g h t s o f t h e A m e r i -

c a n s . Kenm ore, where Colonel Fieldin g Lewis l i v e d ,

h i s w i f e b e i n g W a s h i n g t o n ' s s i s t e r , a n d t h e h o m e n e a r

b y w h e r e W a s h i n g t o n ' s m o t h e r d w e l t i n h e r l a s t y e a r s ,

w e r e i n f a i r c o n d i t i o n , b u t t h e b e a u t i f u l f o l i a g e i n w h i c h

they were embowered had largely disappea red . The

m o n u m e n t t o W a s h i n g t o n ' s m o t h e r w a s s t i l l t h e p i c t u r -

e s q u e f e a t u r e o f t h e n e i g h b o u r h o o d , a n d i n m y e y e s t h e

m o r e w o r t h y o f p r e s e r v a t i o n b e c a u s e i t w a s s c a r r e d a l l

o v e r b y t h e s h o t a n d s h e l l w h i c h h a d r a g e d a r o u n d i t n e a r

n i n e t y y e a r s a f t e r t h e o l d l a d y' s b o d y w as t h e r e l a i d .

A h o u s e i n F r e d e r i c k s b u r g g a i n e d d u r i n g t h e R e v o l u -

t i o n t h e n a m e " The Sentry Box . " I t w a s t h e r e s i d e n c e

o f G e n e r a l W e e d o n w h o d i s t i n g u i s h e d h i m s e l f i n t h e b a t -

t l e o f T r e n t o n , a n d w a s l e f t b y W a s h i n g t o n i n c h a r g e o f

t h e H e s s i a n s . H e w a s n o t t h e r e f o r e i n t h e s t r u g g l e t h a t

e n s u e d a t P r i n c e t o n , w h e r e h i s b r o t h e r - i n - l a w , G e n e r a l

H u g h M e r c e r , f e l l . F o r a g o o d m a n y y e a r s a f t e r t h e w a r

w a s o v e r t h e o f f i c e r s o f t h i s r e g i o n , i n c l u d i n g G e n e r a l

W a s h i n g t o n , u s e d t o e n j o y a C h r i s t m a s N i g h t r e v e l i n

General Weedon's " Sentry Box . " T h e y u s e d t o d r e s s u p

t w o l i t t l e n e g r o e s a s s e r g e a n t s o n g u a r d a t t h e d o o r , a n d

t h e c o l o r e d w a i t e r s w e r e i n u n i f o r m . Judge Beverly R .

W e l l f o r d , b e l o n g i n g t o a h i s t o r i c f a m i l y o f F r e d e r i c k s -

b u r g , g a v e m e t h e s o n g - probably composed by Weedon-h i c h w a s a l w a y s s u n g b y t h e s e o l d c o m r a d e s .



3 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

O n C h r i s t m a s D a y i n S e v e n t y - s i x

O u r r a g g e d t r o o p s w i t h b a y ' n e t s f i a t

For Trenton ma rched away ;

T h e D e l a w a r e i c e , t h e b o a t s b e l o w ,

T h e l i g h t o b s c u r e d b y h a i l a n d s n o w ,

B u t n o s i g n o f d i s m a y .

O u r o b j e c t w a s t h e H e s s i a n b a n d

T h a t d a r e i n v a d e f a i r F r e e d o m ' s l a n d

A n d q u a r t e r i n t h a t p l a c e :

G r e a t W a s h i n g t o n , b e l e d u s o n

W i t h e n s i g n s s t r e a m i n g w i t h r e n o w n ,

Which ne'er had known disgrace .

I n s i l e n t m a r c h w e s p e n d t h e n i g h t ,

E a c h s o l d i e r p a n t i n g f o r t h e f i g h t ,

Though quite benum bed with frost :

G r e e n e o n t h e l e f t a t s i x b e g a n ,

T h e r i g h t w a s w i t h b r a v e S u l l i v a n ,

W h o i n b a t t l e n o t i m e l o s t .

T h e i r p i c k e t s s t o r m e d , t h e a l a r m w a s s p r e a d

T h a t r e b e l s r i s e n f r o m t h e d e a d

Were marching into town ;

S o m e s c a m p e r e d h e r e , s o m e s c a m p e r e d t h e r e ,

A n d s o m e f o r a c t i o n d i d p r e p a r e -B u t s o o n t h e i r a r m s l a i d d o w n .

T w e l v e h u n d r e d s e r v i l e m i s c r e a n t s

W i t h a l l t h e i r c o l o u r s , g u n s , a n d t e n t s

W e r e t r o p h i e s o f t h e d a y :

T h e f r o l i c o ' e r , t h e b r i g h t c a n t e e n

I n c e n t r e , f r o n t , a n d r e a r w a s s e e n ,

D r i v i n g f a t i g u e a w a y .

A n d , b r o t h e r s o f t h e c a u s e ! l e t ' s s i n g

O u r s a f e d e l i v e r a n c e f r o m a K i n g

W h o s t r o v e t o e x t e n d h i s s w a y ;



MARY WASHINGTON 3 3

And life you know is but a span,

Let's touch the tanka rd while we can

In mem ory of the Day ! 1

A b , h o w s m a l l a p p e a r s t h a t o n c e g r a n d 1 1 Sentry Box!"

H o w s t r a n g e i n t h e d i s t a n c e a p p e a r s t o m e t h a t s c h o o l -

b o y b e a r i n g m y n a m e w h o o n c e s t r o l l e d w i t h a w e a l o n g

t h i s p r e t t y r i v e r s i d e s t r e e t a n d d r e a m e d o f t h e g i a n t s t h a t

p e o p l e d F r e d e r i c k s b u r g i n S e v e n t y - s i x !

M y b r o t h e r R i c h a r d , a d i l i g e n t c o l l e c t o r o f V i r g i n i a

t r a d i t i o n s a n d d o c u m e n t s , g a v e m e a l e t t e r o f Ma r y

Washington to her son John Augustine Washington in

W e s t m o r e l a n d , V i r g i n i a , u n d a t e d b u t e v i d e n t l y w r i t t e n

d u r i n g t h e R e v o l u t i o n , i n w h i c h s h e s a y s : 1 1 I a m a g o i n g

f a s t , a n d i t , t h e t i m e , i s h a r d . I a m b o r r o w i n g a l i t t l e

Corn n -n o C o r n n i n t h e C o r n n h o u s e . I n e v e r l i v e d s o e

p o o r e i n m y l i f e . Was it not for Mr . F r e n c h a n d y o u r

s i s t e r L e w i s I s h o u l d b e a l m o s t s t a r v e d , b u t I a m l i k e a n

o l d a l m a n a c k q u i t e o u t o f d a t e . G i v e my love to Mrs .

Washington-a ll the family . I am dea r Johnn e your

l o v i n g a n d a f f e c t i o n a t e M o t h e r . " A p a r t f r o m t h i s n o t e

t h e r e w e r e t r a d i t i o n s w h i c h c o n v i n c e d m y b r o t h e r t h a t

d u r i n g t h a t w a r W a s h i n g t o n ' s m o t h e r w a s w h a t w a s t h e n

called a "Tory," and had no sympathy with the cause

f o r w h i c h h e r f a m o u s s o n w a s c o n t e n d i n g . O u t t h e r e b e -

s i d e h e r m o n u m e n t I p o n d e r e d t h e m a t t e r , a n d a l s o r e -

m e m b e r e d c e r t a i n t h i n g s t h a t I h a d h e a r d f r o m v e n e r a b l e

f r i e n d s a n d r e l a t i v e s c o n c e r n i n g e x c e l l e n t V i r g i n i a n s w h o

h a d s u f f e r e d b e c a u s e t h e y w o u l d n o t f i g h t a g a i n s t t h e B r i t -

i s h c r o w n , w h i c h a s o f f i c i a l m e n t h e y h a d s w o r n t o s u p p o r t .

1 1905. I f t h e s h a d e s o f t h e s e m e r r y c o m r a d e s c o u l d r e v i s i t t h e e a r t h ,

t h e y w o u l d w o n d e r a t W a s h i n g t o n C i t y , a n d m o s t o f a l l p e r h a p s a t s e e i n g

t h e r e a s t a t u e o f t h e m a n r e a l l y g u i l t y o f t h e H e s s i a n i n v a s i o n , t h e o n l y

m o n a r c h w h o t o t h e l a s t r e f u s e d t o r e c o g n i z e A m e r i c a n I n d e p e n d e n c e , -F r e d e r i c k t h e G r e a t .



34 MY PILGRIMAGEI d i d n o t a t t h a t t i m e k n o w m u c h o f t h e s e a m y s i d e o f t h e

American Revolution, but I knew enough of the m ean-

n e s s e s a n d i n j u s t i c e s , a s w e l l a s o f t h e h o r r o r s o f w a r , t o

c o n c e i v e a m i s g i v i n g c o n c e r n i n g t h e h e r o i c s w h i c h i n m o s t

minds supplied the place of exact knowledge about that

s t r u g g l e . It brought not only to Washington's m other

b u t t o m a n y o f t h e b e s t f a m i l i e s j u s t s u c h d i s t r e s s a s t h e

Union wa r brought, - a d i s t r e s s to the conquerors an d

c o n q u e r e d a l i k e .

And the two wars were bran ches of the same poison-

o u s t r e e . What was it that in 1776 enabled two col-

onies-South Carolina and Georgia-to set aside the

a n t i - s l a v e r y f e e l i n g o f e l e v e n c o l o n i e s , a n d c o m p e l J e f f e r -

s o n t o c a n c e l t h e d e n u n c i a t i o n o f s l a v e r y i n t h e D e c l a r a -

t i o n o f I n d e p e n d e n c e ? War. I t w a s n e c e s s a r y f o r v i c t o r y

t h a t t h e c o l o n i e s s h o u l d b e u n i t e d ; a s F r a n k l i n s a i d , " Wem u s t a l l h a n g t o g e t h e r o r a l l b a n g s e p a r a t e l y ." It was

e q u a l l y n e c e s s a r y a f t e r t h e v i c t o r y t h a t a u n i o n o f a l l t h e

colonies should be formed to prevent defeated and hu-

m i l i a t e d E n g l a n d f r o m r e c o n q u e r i n g t h e m s i n g l y , a n d t h e

c o m p u l s o r y c a n c e l l i n g m a r k r e a p p e a r e d i n t h e c o n c e s s i o n s

t o s l a v e r y i n t h e C o n s t i t u t i o n . It was that black ma rk

persistent in the war between North an d South which

s l e w h a l f a m i l l i o n .

B u t l i t t l e i s t o l d b y t h e m e r e f i g u r e s . The uniforms

h i d i n d i v i d u a l h e a r t s a n d m i n d s , a n d t h o s e w h o s u r v i v e

can never be the same . The moral and psychological

effects of a war are imm easurable, and no one escap es

them, not even those unborn when the visible war oc-

c u r r e d . I w a s t h r e e t h o u s a n d m i l e s a w a y f r o m t h e U n i o n

War, in a beautiful English homestead, when a stroke

c a m e f r o m a c r o s s t h e s e a w h i c h n o t o n l y a t o n c e c h a n g e d

m y w h o l e o u t e r l i f e b u t u l t i m a t e l y m y i n n e r v i s i o n .



AN OMNIPOTENT WILL 35

T h e o l d p e o p l e i n V i r g i n i a w e r e k n e e l i n g , a n d s o m e

h e a d s p r e m a t u r e l y g r e y w e r e b e n t t o t h e G o d o f t h e i r

f a t h e r s . S o m e h u m i l i a t i o n o f d e f e a t w a s i n t h e i r h e a r t s ,

- p e r h a p s i n t h o s e w h o h a d b e e n s o l d i e r s o f t h e C o n f e d e r -

a c y s o m e b i t t e r n e s s , - s o t h a t I h a d t o u s e t a c t i n s p e a k i n g

o f t h e p a s t . W e r e t h e y k n e e l i n g t o e x a c t l y t h e s a m e G o d

whom they had invoked during the war? How few are

t h e y w h o i n u s i n g t h e w o r d " God " r e a l i z e t h a t i n t h a t

c o l l e c t i v i s t t e r m a r e i n c l u d e d m a n y v a r i o u s a n d s o m e c o n -

t r a r i o u s i d e a l s . T h e o n l y p o i n t i n w h i c h t h e y u n i t e i s

an omnipotent Will . Among the papers of Abraham

L i n c o l n w a s f o u n d t h i s n o t e w r i t t e n i n S e p t e m b e r , 1 8 6 2 ,

a f e a r f u l m o m e n t o f t h e w a r : -

T h e w i l l o f G o d p r e v a i l s . I n g r e a t c o n t e s t s e a c h p a r t y

c l a i m s t o a c t i n a c c o r d a n c e w i t h t h e w i l l o f G o d . Both

m a y b e , a n d o n e m u s t b e , w r o n g . G o d c a n n o t b e f o r a n d

a g a i n s t t h e s a m e t h i n g a t t h e s a m e t i m e . I n t h e p r e s e n t

c i v i l w a r i t i s q u i t e p o s s i b l e t h a t G o d ' s p u r p o s e i s s o m e -

t h i n g d i f f e r e n t f r o m t h e p u r p o s e o f e i t h e r p a r t y , a n d y e t

[ t h a t ] t h e h u m a n i n s t r u m e n t a l i t i e s , w o r k i n g j u s t a s t h e y

d o , a r e o f t h e b e s t a d a p t a t i o n t o e f f e c t h i s p u r p o s e . I am

a l m o s t r e a d y t o s a y t h a t t h i s i s p r o b a b l y t r u e ; that God

w i l l s t h i s c o n t e s t , a n d w i l l s t h a t i t s h a l l n o t e n d y e t . Byh i s m e r e g r e a t p o w e r o n t h e m i n d s o f t h e n o w c o n t e s t a n t s

h e c o u l d h a v e e i t h e r s a v e d o r d e s t r o y e d t h e U n i o n w i t h o u t

a human contest . Y e t t h e c o n t e s t b e g a n . And havin g

b e g u n , h e c o u l d g i v e t h e f i n a l v i c t o r y t o e i t h e r s i d e a n y

day . Y e t t h e c o n t e s t p r o c e e d s .

E v e n t h e h i s t o r i a n F r o u d e , i n h i s r e c t o r i a l a d d r e s s a t

St. A n d r e w s u s e d t h e p h r a s e"

G o d o f B a t t l e s . " I n t h a t

f o r m t h e b i b l i c a l 11 G o d o f H o s t s " ( t h a t i s , t h e s t a r s o f

h e a v e n ) i s a n g l i c i z e d i n t o a t e r r e s t r i a l w a r - g o d w h o m a k e s

v i r t u a l a t h e i s m t h e o n l y h o p e o f p e a c e o n e a r t h .

W e l l , t h e c o r n w a s w a v i n g l u x u r i a n t l y o n t h e V i r g i n i a

b a t t l e f i e l d s , t h e p e o p l e w e r e b r a v e l y e n d e a v o u r i n g t o



3 6 MY PILGRIMAGE'r e p a i r t h e i r l o s s e s ; t h e n e g r o e s g a v e m e g o o d r e p o r t s o f

t h e i r c o n d i t i o n ; and my own reception an d welcome in

t h e o l d h o m e h e l p e d n o d o u b t t o i n c l i n e m e t o w a r d s t h e

o p t i m i s t i c v i e w . I t w a s a p u r e h a p p i n e s s t o m e e t a g a i n

m y p a r e n t s , a n d t o f i n d i n t h e m n o d i s t r e s s a b o u t m y

h e r e s i e s ; t h e y w e r e e v e n r e a d i n g m y " Sacr ed Anthology"

w i t h s a t i s f a c t i o n . I n t h e o l d M e t h o d i s t c h u r c h I s a w t h e

s i l k e n w h i t e h e a d o f m y f a t h e r b e n t i n p r a y e r - i n w h i c h

I w a s s u r e l y t h o u g h t o f-n d w h e n n e x t d a y t h e h o u r o f

my departure came he had disappeared . C o u r a g e o u s i n

e v e r y t h i n g e l s e , h e c o u l d n o t f a c e t h e p a r t i n g w i t h o n e h e

l o v e d . I n e v e r s a w h i m a g a i n .



CHAPTER IIA witch hunt a t Washington -Yellow Spr ings, Ohio -C i n c i n n a t i -

Judge Hoadly -J o u r n e y t o S a l t L a k e C i t y -John W. Young-Mor-

monism and human na ture - Elder Penrose as a p reacher - Mo r m o n

wives and Mormon husbands-The fate of repudiated wives .AT W a s h i n g t o n I h a d a s t r a n g e w i t c h h u n t ! James

P a r k e r , o n c e t h e b o d y - s e r v a n t o f m y f a t h e r , - t o

r e m a i n w i t h w h o m h e h a d a c t u a l l y f l e d f r o m f r e e d o m w i t h

t h e N o r t h e r n t r o o p s t o t h e C o n f e d e r a t e l i n e s , - h a d s e t -

t l e d w i t h h i s f a m i l y i n W a s h i n g t o n . H e h a d a b e a u t i f u l

mulatto daughter who was employed by the wife of a

h i g h g o v e r n m e n t o f f i c i a l a s h e r m a i d , b u t s h o r t l y b e f o r e m y

a r r i v a l t h e g i r l ( a b o u t n i n e t e e n ) b e g a n t o w a s t e a w a y .

Her m istress was muc h attac hed to her, and the best

p h y s i ci a n s w e r e c o n s u l t e d , b u t n o n e c o u l d e x p l a i n t h e a i l -

ment that was app arently carrying her to the grave .

W h e n I c a l l e d o n h e r s h e b a r e l y r a i s e d h e r h e a d , s a y i n g ,

1 ° I a m s o r r y f o r y o u t o s e e m e i n t h i s c o n d i t i o n . " Mye f f o r t t o g e t f r o m h e r s o m e e x p l a n a t i o n w a s f r u i t l e s s .

W h e n I a s k e d h e r i f s h e w a s i n l o v e s h e s h o o k h e r h e a d ,

a n d i t w a s t h e s a m e w h e n I s u g g e s t e d r e l i g i o u s t r o u b l e .

B u t I s a w t h a t t h e a i l m e n t w a s m e n t a l , a n d o n q u e s t i o n -

i n g h e r f a t h e r c l o s e l y h e a d m i t t e d , w i t h s o m e s h a m e , t h a t

h i s d a u g h t e r o n c e s a i d t o h i m t h a t s h e f e a r e d s h e w a s b e -

w i t c h e d . W i t h t h a t c l u e I c o n s u l t e d h e r e m p l o y e r , a n d a

s e a r c h i n g i n v e s t i g a t i o n r e v e a l e d a s t r a n g e s i t u a t i o n . The

b l a c k co o k , h a vi n g b e c o m e j e a l o u s o f t h e i r m i s t r e s s ' s d e v o -

t i o n t o t h e m u l a t t o m a i d , d e t e r m i n e d t o f r i g h t e n h e r a w a y .

K n o w i n g t h a t t h e g i r l w a s s e n s i t i v e a n d i m a g i n a t i v e , s h e



38 MY PILGRIMAGEsought to ma ke her believe herself bewitched, and one

morning the maid in making up her bed found beneath

t h e m a t t r e s s a t e a c h c o r n e r s o m e b a g s o f p o w d e r e d g l a s s ,

w i t h s c r a w l e d l e t t e r s a n d f i g u r e s . The cook bad kept her

f a c e o f k i n d n e s s , a n d o n s e e i n g t h e c h a r m s a f f e c t e d p i t y

a n d s a i d t h e i r f a t a l i n f l u e n c e c o u l d n o t b e e s c a p e d b u t b y

f l i g h t . T h e p o o r m a i d w a s a s h a m e d t o t e l l h e r m i s t r e s s ,

a n d c o u l d n o t b e a r t o l e a v e h e r , a n d w a s g r a d u a l l y p r o s -

t r a t e d b y t e r r o r . T h e c o o k b e i n g a t o n c e d i s m i s s e d , t h e

g i r l w a s s o o t h e d a n d r e s t o r e d b y t h e a f f e c t i o n o f h e r m i s -

t r e s s , a n d a l l w e n t w e l l .

This family wa s one that I ha d settled at Yellow

S p r i n g s , O h i o , i n 1 8 6 2 . My dear friend, Mrs . J u l i a L a w -

r e n c e , w h o r e s i d e d t h e r e , h a d l o n g s e e n a f t e r t h e m f o r m e ,

and when I met her on my westward journey, reported

t h a t t h o u g h m a n y h a d s e t t l e d i n o t h e r t o w n s , t h o s e w h o

r e m a i n e d w e r e d o i n g w e l l .

I n C i n c i n n a t i t h e r e w a s e x c i t e m e n t a b o u t a n a p p r o a c h -

i n g g u b e r n a t o r i a l e l e c t i o n . The quietest plac e I found

there was the home of the Democratic c andidate, Judge

H o a d l y , w h o s e g u e s t I w a s d u r i n g m y s t a y . H i s r e s i d e n c e

(on Walnut Hills) had shortly before been struck by

l i g h t n i n g , w h i c h h a d p e n e t r a t e d s o l e l y t o t h e d r a w i n g -

r o o m , w h i c h c o n t a i n e d a d m i r a b l e w o r k s b y T u r n e r , C o r o t ,

C o u r b e t , F r e r e , a n d o t h e r s , b u t t h e t h u n d e r b o l t h a d s o

w e l l c o n d u c t e d i t s e l f t h a t n o t h i n g w h a t e v e r w a s t o u c h e d

e x c e p t t h e g i l d e d c o r n i c e , w h i c h w a s c h a n g e d t o a s o r t o f

g i l t - t o o t h e d c o m b . This heavenly decora tion had been

p r e s e r v e d . I n 1 8 5 7 H o a d l y h a d l e f t h i s p a r t y a n d c o o p -

e r a t e d w i t h t h e R e p u b l i c a n s a g a i n s t s l a v e r y ; t h a t i s s u e

s e t t l e d , t h e D e m o c r a t s h a d n o w s u m m o n e d h i m t o b e t h e i r

l e a d e r . H o a d l y w a s e l e c t e d , a n d i t w a s u n d e r h i s a d m i r -

a b l e a d m i n i s t r a t i o n t h a t t h e C i n c i n n a t i j a i l w a s s u c c e s s -



JUDGE HOADLY 3 9

f u l l y d e f e n d e d a g a i n s t a m o b o f l y n c h e r s , w h i c h e n d e a v -

o u r e d t o s e i z e a n d m u r d e r a n e g r o y o u t h a w a i t i n g t r i a l

f o r m u r d e r .

I h a d s o m e f e a r o f m y d e a r a n d i n t i m a t e f r i e n d J u d g e

H o a d l y e n t e r i n g u p o n a p o l i t i c a l c a r e e r . As a judge he

h a d s h o w n s u c h a b i l i t y t h a t h e r e a l l y b e l o n g e d t o t h e

United States Suprem e Court . But the Democ rats had

n e e d o f h i m ; t h e y h a d v o t e s e n o u g h t o e l e c t t h e i r c a n d i -

d a t e i f t h e y c o u l d f i n d a n e m i n e n t l e a d e r , b u t n o t h i n g

s u c c e e d s l i k e s u c c e s s , a n d a l t h o u g h t h e R e p u b l i c a n p a r t y

b a d l o s t m a n y v i r t u e s i t h a d n e v e r p a r t e d f r o m t h a t o f

s u c c e s s . H o a d l y w a s a D e m o c r a t o n p h i l o s o p h i c a l p r i n c i -

p l e s ; h e b e l i e v e d i n t h e D e c l a r a t i o n o f I n d e p e n d e n c e , a n d

w a s s u c h a J e f f e r s o n i a n t h a t w h e n I a s k e d p e r m i s s i o n t o

d e d i c a t e t o h i m m y ° ° L i f e o f P a i n e , " w h o m h e p l a c e d n e x t

t o J e f f e r s o n , h e c o n s e n t e d , b u t w i t h s o m e a n x i e t y l e s t I

s h o u l d r e p e a t t h e e x p o s u r e o f J e f f e r s o n ' s d u p l i c i t y g i v e n

in m y work on Edmund Ran dolph .

I m a d e t h e m o s t o f t h i s o p p o r t u n i t y t o o b t a i n l i g h t o n

t h e s u b j e c t s I h a d d e a l t w i t h i n m y l i t t l e b o o k " R e p u b l i -

c a n S u p e r s t i t i o n s . " J u d g e H o a d l y i n c l i n e d t o t h i n k t h a t

P a i n e , F r a n k l i n , a n d J e f f e r s o n w e r e m i s t a k e n i n o p p o s -

i n g b i c a m e r a l i s m i n C o n g r e s s . The Union being by the

j u d g e ' s t h e o r y a f e d e r a t i o n o f n a t i o n s , t h e y n e e d e d a

f e d e r a l a s s e m b l y i n a d d i t i o n t o a p o p u l a r o n e , b u t h e d i d

n o t d e n y t h e a n o m a l y I p o i n t e d o u t , t h a t t h e S e n a t e-the House of these Nation s (States)-hould have a

p o w e r o v e r t h e p u r s e o f t h e p e o p l e u n k n o w n t o t h e H o u s e

o f L o r d s . T h o u g h a n a d v o c a t e o f f r e e - t r a d e , a l w a y s p r e -

v e n t e d b y t h e S e n a t e , t h e j u d g e c o n s i d e r e d t h e c h i e f

d e f e c t o f t h e C o n s t i t u t i o n t o b e i n t h e w o r d s o f i t s p r e -

amble-° g e n e r a l w e l f a r e . " I n u r g i n g C o n g r e s s a n d t h e

P r e s i d e n t t o e r a d i c a t e s l a v e r y w h e n i t w a s t r y i n g t o



40 MY PILGRIMAGEd e s t r o y t h e U n i o n , o n t h e g r o u n d t h a t t h e C o n s t i t u t i o n

ordered them to " p r o v i d e f o r t h e g e n e r a l w e l f a r e , " f e w

of us reflected that the phra se was double-edged and

m i g h t b e u s e d t o i n t e r f e r e w i t h l o c a l s e l f - g o v e r n m e n t i n

t h e f u t u r e o r e v e n w i t h a n y i n d i v i d u a l l i b e r t y w h i c h a

perhaps mom entary ma jority of congressmen considered

d e t r i m e n t a l t o t h e " g e n e r a l w e l f a r e . " W h e n I q u o t e d t h i s

c l a u s e i n E n g l a n d , a s j u s t i f l y i n g s o m e p o l i c y o f C o n g r e s s ,

a n a b l e w r i t e r i n t h e " P a l l M a l l G a z e t t e , " e v i d e n t l y a

l e a r n e d j u r i s t , a n s w e r e d t h a t t h e p h r a s e w a s m e a n t t o e x -

c l u d e t h e f e d e r a l g o v e r n m e n t f r o m i n t e r f e r i n g w i t h s t a t e

o r m u n i c i p a l i n t e r e s t s a n d t o r e s t r i c t i t t o t h e g e n e r a l

( e . g . f o r e i g n o r t e r r i t o r i a l ) i n t e r e s t s a s d i s t i n gu i s h e d f r o m

t h o s e o f t h e S t a t e s . This reply led me to examin e the

d e b a t e s o f t h e C o n s t i t u t i o n a l C o n v e n t i o n o f 1 7 8 7 , b u t I

w a s u n a b l e t o d i s c o v e r t h a t t h e p h r a s e " g e n e r a l w e l f a r e "

w a s d i s c u s s e d a t a l l o r i n t r o d u c e d i n t h a t c o n v e n t i o n .

The steady encroa chmen t of the federal governmen t

o n p e r s o n a l l i b e r t y a n d o n r e l i g i o u s e q u a l i t y i s t r a c e a b l e

i n t h e t r e a t m e n t o f t h e M o r m o n s . T h e p e r s e c u t i o n s o r i g i -

n a l l y l e f t t o m o b s w e r e a d o p t e d a n d s y s t e m a t i z e d b y o u r

" g e n e r a l w e l f a r e " r u l e r s a t W a s h i n g t o n . A l t h o u g h p o l y -

g a m y a p p e a r e d t o m e a s t h e o u t c o m e o f a n e x t r e m e b i b l i -

c a l l e t t e r - w o r s h i p , I h a d l o n g r e c o g n i z e d , w i t h s o m e o f t h e

a b l e s t m e n I k n e w i n L o n d o n , t h a t t h e c o n g r e s s i o n a l p e r -

secution of the Mormon Church was an unconstitutional

p o l i c y a n i m a t e d b y a n i m m o r a l s p i r i t u n d e r t h e m a s k o f

m o r a l i t y . The law against polygamy had been worded so

that a man might maintain as ma ny women as he pleased

provided they were not conceded the dignity and legal

p r o t e c t i o n o f " w i v e s . "

I l o o k e d f o r w a r d w i t h d r e a d t o t h e f i v e d a y s a n d n i g h t s

by railway needed to reach Salt Lake City, but it was



JOHN W. YOUNG 4 1

t r a v e l l i n g i n a f i n e h o t e l , a n d I n e v e r h a d a p l e a s a n t e r

journey. T h i s w a s p a r t l y d u e t o a f e l l o w t r a v e l l e r , J o h nW. Young, son of the fam ous President Brigha m Young .

John W . Y o u n g w a s a n a f f a b l e m a n , w i t h t h e i n t e l l i -

g e n c e d e r i v e d f r o m t h e u n i v e r s i t y o f l i f e a n d e x p e r i e n c e .

There was some sternness about his mouth, but his eye

w a s g e n i a l . I told him that I should probably use pub-

l i c l y m y c o n v e r s a t i o n s w i t h h i m . He held in his ha nd a

b o o k o n M o r m o n s b y P h i l i p R o b i n s o n , a n d a l s o t h e s t a t e -

ments of Judge Jeremiah Black . I f r e e l y a g r e e d w i t h h i m

t h a t t h e r e w a s m u c h i n h u m a n n a t u r e t h a t a c c o r d e d w i t h

polygamy an d which had a disastrous developmen t in

g r e a t c i t i e s . The evolution of ma n, in con quering the

l a n d s a n d s e a s o f t h e w o r l d , h i s l i f e i n c a m p s a n d p o r t s ,

h a d t e n d e d t o m a k e h i m a n a t u r a l p o l y g a m i s t . Mr . Young

s a i d , " Y o u c a n ' t g o c o n t r a r y t o m a n ' s n a t u r e ." "But,"

I a n s w e r e d , " m a n ' s n a t u r e i s o n l y h a l f t h e h u m a n n a t u r e

i n t h e w o r l d ; t h e r e i s t h e n a t u r e o f w o m a n , w h o m a l l t h e

c o n d i t i o n s o f l i f e h a v e t e n d e d t o m a k e m o n o g a m i s t . C i r -

c u m s t a n c e s i n s o m e r e g i o n s h a v e d e v e l o p e d o t h e r i n s t i n c t s

i n w o m a n , a s i n t h e s w a r m i n g A s i a t i c p o p u l a t i o n s , w h e r e

s h e f i n d s n o c a r e e r o r e v e n s u p p o r t b u t i n m a r r i a g e , a n d

where the excessive number of women ma de polygamy a

n a t u r a l , e v e n i n e v i t a b l e , s o c i a l e c o n o m y ; b u t t h e s e c o n d i -

t i o n s d o n o t e x i s t i n t h e W e s t , w h e r e t h e e c o n o m i c a d v a n -

t a g e s t o h e r o f m o n o g a m y h a v e d e v e l o p e d a c o r r e s p o n d i n g

i n s t i n c t ." Mr. Y o u n g s a i d , " Woman is necessarily the

inferior of ma n . There are religious reasons why she

s h o u l d b e t h e o n e t o s u r r e n d e r h e r f e e l i n g s i n t h a t r e s p e c t . "

" B u t w a s i t n o t f o u n d a m o n g y o u t h a t t h e r o m a n c e o f l i f e

a n d t h e c h a r m o f t h e r e l a t i o n b e t w e e n m a n a n d m a i d w e r e

d i m i n i s h e d b y t h i s p l u r a l i t y o f w i v e s ? " H e s a i d , " C o u r t -

ship went on a mong us the same a s elsewhere . I b e l i e v e



49 MY PILGRIMAGEi n l o v e b u t n o t i n f a t u a t i o n

. Whatever woman m ay sup-

p o s e s h e l o s e s b y b e i n g o n e a m o n g o t h e r w i v e s i s c o m p e n -

s a t e d i n a g r e a t e r d e v o t i o n t o h e r c h i l d r e n , f o r i n o u r

system the maternal feelings are regarded as supreme

t h o s e f e e l i n g s a r e v e r y e a r l y d e v e l o p e d , a n d f o r m t h e c h i e f

e a r t h l y h a p p i n e s s o f w o m e n . T h e y a l s o i n c r e a s e t h e a f f e c -

t i o n o f m a n , w h o c a n n o t f a i l t o f e e l a d e e p t e n d e r n e s s f o r

t h e m o t h e r o f h i s c h i l d r e n . It must be remembered that

i n o u r f a i t h t h i s f e e l i n g c o n c e r n i n g t h e p r o d u c t i o n o f t h e

r a c e i s a p r o f o u n d l y r e l i g i o u s f e e l i n g , a n d b r i n g s a h a p p i -

n e s s n o t r e a l i z e d w h e r e t h e r e l a t i o n s a r e m e r e l y w o r l d l y . "

I a s k e d h i m w h e t h e r , i n t h e g r o w t h o f s o c i e t y i n U t a h , i t

w a s n o t f o u n d t h a t t h e r e w e r e n o t e n o u g h w i v e s f o r a l l ;

a n d w a s n o t t h i s t o s o m e e x t e n t a r e a s o n f o r t h e h o s t i l i t y

o f t h e " G e n t i l e s . " H e r e p l i e d , " The men who settle in

t h i s r e g i o n a r e l a r g e l y a d v e n t u r e r s ; they do not wish to

settle down in perman ent homes ; they no doubt desire

our women, but they are not generally of the marr ying

kind ." He dwelt largely upon the good order an d free-

dom from crime which ha d always ma rked their settle-

ment, even though man y outsiders had come a mong them .

E n t e r i n g S a l t L a k e C i t y o n a b e a u t i f u l s u m m e r d a y , I

c o u l d r e a l i z e h o w i t s s i t e h a d a p p e a r e d t o t h e f i r s t M o r -

m o n p i l g r i m s a l a n d o f B e u l a h . E v e n b e f o r e c u l t i v a t i o n i t

b l o s s o m e d l i k e a r o s e a m i d t h e m o u n t a i n s . William Godbe,

whom I had met in London, and his wife had invited me

t o b e t h e i r g u e s t , a n d a r r a n g e d a S u n d a y a f t e r n o o n l e c -

ture for me in the Opera House . I found the Mormon s

w e r e b y n o m e a n s t h e v u l g a r p e o p l e s o m e s u p p o s e d t h e m ,

n o r t h e p u r i t a n i c a l s e c t a r i a n s I h a d i m a g i n e d t h e m , b u t

t h e S a l t L a k e a r i s t o c r a c y . I n d r i v i n g a b o u t t h e n e i g h b o u r -

hood I met a com pan y of young ladies with fine horses

a n d f a s h i o n a b l e r i d i n g - h a b i t s : all Mormons . A t t h e b a t h -



A MORMON SERMON 43

i n g b e a c h m a n y m e r r y l a d i e s i n g a y c o s t u m e s w e r e s w i m -

i n g : n e a r l y a l l M o r m o n s . I n t h e O p e r a H o u s e A d a R e h a n

d e l i g h t e d a l a r g e a u d i e n c e b y h e r a c t i n g i n " A r t i c l e 4 7 , "

an d I remark ed the beauty and eleganc e of the young

l a d i e s : mostly Mormons . M y l e c t u r e i n t h e s a m e h o u s e

w a s a t t e n d e d b y a f i n e a u d i e n c e , t w o t h i r d s b e i n g M o r m o n

f a m i l i e s , q u i t e a s w e l l d r e s s e d a n d i n t e l l i g e n t a s t h e f a m i -

l i e s o f o t h e r r e g i o n s .

O n S u n d a y m o r n i n g i n t h e f i n e l y f e s t o o n e d T a b e r n a c l e

t h e c r o w d , m o r e t h a n t e n t h o u s a n d , w a s m a d e u p o f p e o p l e

g a t h e r e d f r o m m a n y l a n d s , a n d s o m e o f t h e d e v o u t a p -

p e a r e d m o r e r u s t i c t h a n t h o s e s e e n i n t h e t h e a t r e . But

h e r e I r e m a r k e d a n o l d - f a s h i o n e d s i m p l i c i t y s o m e w h a t l i k e

t h a t o f M e t h o d i s t m e e t i n g s i n t h e S o u t h . I t w a s v e r y h o t ,

a n d o c c a s i o n a l l y d u r i n g t h e s e r m o n s o m e o n e w o u l d g o f o r

a d r i n k t o o n e o f t h e w a t e r b u c k e t s p r o v i d e d a t e a c h d o o r .

T h e s c e n e w a s u n i q u e . T h e r e w a s a n o r g a n , s t r i n g e d i n -

s t r u m e n t s , a n d a d m i r a b l e c h o i r ; but in two hymns the

m u l t i t u d e j o i n e d , a n d t h e f e r v e n t s i n g i n g o f s o m a n y

v o i c e s w a s a s i m p r e s s i v e a s t h e r e f r a i n o f t h e p e o p l e r e -

s p o n di n g t o t h e c h o i r i n S t . P e t e r ' s a t R o m e . T h e a i r w a s

c o o l e d b y a l a r g e f o u n t a i n p l a y i n g i n t h e c e n t r e o f t h e

b u i l d i n g .

A n d w h a t s h a l l I s a y o f t h e s e r m o n ? I t w a s g i v e n b y

E l d e r P e n r o s e , e d i t o r o f t h e ° ° D e s e r e t N e w s . " H e s t a n d s

i n m y m e m o r y a s a r a t h e r t a l l a n d l a n k f i g u r e , w i t h s m a l l

b e a d a n d w e l l - c h i s e l l e d f e a t u r e s , a l a r g e g r e y e y e , a n d a

v o i c e o f w o n d e r f u l f l e x i b i l i t y - e v e n h i s l o w t o n e s r e a c h i n g

m e d i s t i n c t l y i n t h e m i d d l e o f t h e C o l i s e u m - l i k e e d i f i c e .

H e t o o k n o t e x t a n d s p o k e w i t h o u t n o t e s , w i t h o u t h e s i t a -

t i o n , a n d w i t h l i t t l e g e s t u r e e x c e p t i n a f e w d r a m a t i c

p a s s a g e s . I w a s a s t o n i s h e d b y t h e a b i l i t y o f t h e s e r m o n ,

w h i c h l a s t e d a n h o u r a n d w a s l i s t e n e d t o w i t h t h a t d e e p



CONFERENCE WITH MORMONS 4 5

t e n s e i n t e r e s t ;t h e m o t h e r g r e w f i d g e t y a n d w h i s p e r e d t o

t h e m , p e r h a p s a p r o p o s i t i o n t o l e a v e ; t h e b r e a t h l e s s s t i l l -

n e s s o f t h e a u d i e n c e w o u l d h a v e m a d e f l i g h t a d i s t u r ba n c e ,

a n d t h e m a t r o n c o n t e n t e d h e r s e l f w i t h f a n n i n g v i g o r o u s l y

h e r f l u s h e d f a c e .

T h a t s a m e e v e n i n g I m e t i n M r . G o d b e ' s h o u s e a l a r g e

comp any of Mormons, invited in my behalf . T h e r e w a s

among them only one"

g e n t i l e "b e s i d e s m y s e l f-h e

w i t t y a n d b e a u t i f u l w i f e o f a g e n e r a l a t t h e n e i g h b o u r i n g

Cam p Douglas . I w a s a c q u a i n t e d w i t h s o m e o f h e r r e l a -

t i v e s , a n d w a s m u c h p l e a s e d t o h e a r h e r e x p e r i e n c e s a n d

i m p r e s s i o n s a t S a l t L a k e C i t y . T h o u g h r e a r e d i n o r t h o -

d o x y , s h e t o l d m e t h a t i n a r g u i n g w i t h M o r m o n s s h e h a d

l o n g a g o c e a s e d t o q u o t e S c r i p t u r e . " I f I a p p e a l t o t h e

B i b l e I a m l o s t . "

Those who gathered in the con ference were Mormons

f r i e n d l y t o s o m e k i n d o f r e f o r m , a n d k n o w n a s " G o d b e -

i t e s . " I g a v e t h e m t o u n d e r s t a n d t h a t m y c h i e f i n t e r e s t

l a y i n t h e i r e x p e r i e n c e s , i n t h e d o c t r i n e s t h a t h a d l e d t h e m

i n t o t h a t r e l i g i o n , a n d t h e d e g r e e o f s p i r i t u a l s a t i s f a c t i o n

t h e y h a d f o u n d i n i t . T h e y w e r e i n t e l l i g e n t p e o p l e o f s o m e

e d u c a t i o n ; t h e y w e r e n o t °G c r a n k s , " a n d e v e r y s p e a k e r

h a d t o b e t a k e n s e r i o u s l y . I n o n e t h i n g t h e y a l l a g r e e d ,

n a m e l y , t h a t t h e o u t e r w o r l d w a s m i s t a k e n i n s u p p o s i n g

t h a t a n y i n d i v i d u a l w a s a t t r a c t e d t o a M o r m o n c h u r c h b y

s e n s u a l i t y . I t w a s r a t h e r t h e a s c e t i c w h o l e f t t h e s e n s u a l -

i s m o f g r e a t c i t i e s a n d u n d e r t o o k t h e b u r d e n o f s u p p o r t i n g

a n u m b e r o f w i v e s a n d t h e i r a l w a y s d i f f e r e n t r e s i d e n c e s .

T h e y h a d o n e a n d a l l b e e n a t t r a c t e d b y t h e p a t r i a r c h a l

i d e a , c o m b i n e d w i t h t h e e a r l y C h r i s t i a n c o m m u n i s m ; a n d

a l t h o u g h e a c h p e r s o n w h o s p o k e r e a l i z e d t h a t t h e p o l i t i c a l

s i t u a t i o n i n U t a h d e m a n d e d a n a d a p t a t i o n o f t h e s y s t e m

t o a n e w o r d e r , a n d t h e r e l i n q u i s h m e n t o f p o l y g a m y , t h e i r



4 6 MY PILGRIMAGEi n n e r s p i r i t u a l e x p e r i e n c e s w e r e n o t v e r y u n l i k e t h o s e I

r e m e m b e r e d i n M e t h o d i s t c l a s s m e e t i n g s .

S o m e o f t h e p e r s o n a l n a r r a t i v e s w e r e o f t h r i l l i n g i n t e r -

est, and if America could produce a George Sand, Salt

Lake would become a classic land of romance . Some of

these men a nd women had come from remote parts of the

world where they had suffered poverty and been brought

u p i n i g n o r a n c e ; t h e y h a d l i s t e n e d t o t h e t a l e o f s o m e w a y -

s i d e m i s s i o n a r y c o n c e r n i n g t h e f a r l a n d f l o w i n g w i t h m i l k

a n d h o n e y , t e m p o r a l a n d s p i r i t u a l ; t h e y b a d j o u r n e y e d a s

p o o r p i l g r i m s , w o r k i n g t h e i r w a y o n b o a t s , c l i m b i n g m o u n -

tains, and here had secured comfortable livelihood and

education such as would have been imp ossible in their

n a t i v e c o u n t r i e s .

I called by request on an intelligent and han dsome

woman who had been on e of several plura l wives from

w h o m a w e l l - t o - d o M o r m o n h a d p a r t e d i n o b e d i e n c e t o t h e

law . S h e w a s r e s i d i n g a l o n e i n a p l e a s a n t h o m e , a n d t o l d

m e t h a t n o t h i n g c o u l d e x c e e d t h e v i g i l a n c e a n d k i n d n e s s

w i t h w h i c h h e r f o r m e r h u s b a n d a n d t h e o n e w i f e r e m a i n -

i n g t o h i m , a n d t o w h o m h e w a s p e r f e c t l y l o y a l , s u p p o r t e d

h e r a n d t h e t w o o t h e r w i v e s f r o m w h o m h e h a d s e p a r a t e d .

S h e s u f f e r e d n o d i s r e s p e c t i n t h e c o m m u n i t y . I h a v e o f t e n

t h o u g h t o f t h i s h a p p y w o m a n i n l a t e r y e a r s w h i l e r e m a r k -

i n g t h e l i t t l e c o n s i d e r a t i o n g i v e n b y A m e r i c a n s i n t h e i r

rage against polygamy to the fate of repudiated wives .

A story is told of an American missionary on a savage

island who man aged to make one con vert but refused

t o b a p t i z e h i m b e c a u s e h e h a d f o u r w i v e s . But one da y

the convert came a nd said be had n ow but one wife .

" W h a t h a s b e c o m e o f t h e o t h e r s ? " a s k e d t h e m i s s i o n a r y .

" I a t e t h e m , " s a i d t h e c o n v e r t .



CHAPTER III

S a n F r a n c i s c o -Red Cross Knights- C h i n e s e J o s s a n d t h e a t r e -Voy-

aging southward - F l y i n g f i s h a n d s u n f i s h - Delia Bacon -Shake-

s p e a r e - B a c o n i s m -Honolulu Sabbath - Cap tain Cook - Legends -Pele-Jehovah-Rev . T i t u s C o a n -Samoans -P he n o m e n a-New Zea -land-Dr. R i c h a r d G a r n e t t - P e a r l - d i v e r s - O u r f l o a t i n g U t o p i a .

SAN FRANCISCO blossom ed with bann ers . F i v e t h o u -

s a n d K n i g h t s T e m p l a r s w e r e h o l d i n g t h e i r " G r e a t T r i -

e n n i a l " t h e r e ; t h e P a l a c e H o t e l w a s s a dl y c o n g e s t e d , a n d

t h e w h o l e c i t y s w a r m e d w i t h m e n m a s q u e r a d i n g i n b a d g e s ,

e m b l e m s , s a s h e s , s w o r d s , a n d p r o u d l y b e a r i n g t h e i r c r o s s .

When one looks back up on the ages when the Knight

T e m p l a r w a s a r e a l f i g u r e , a n d e v e r y s w o r d o f h i s f r a t e r -

n i t y s t a i n e d w i t h t h e b l o o d t h a t m a d e t h e R e d C r o s s , i t

s e e m e d a s t r a n g e t h i n g t o f i n d t h e m i n t h e f a r w e s t b e c o m e

p a g e a n t r y . T h e r e a r e p e n a l t i e s o n t a k i n g a t h i n g o u t o f

i t s h i s t o r i c h a b i t a t . H e r e w a s t h e c r o s s , r a d i a n t o n c a p s

t h a t c a l l e d f o r b e l l s , n o t o n l y d e c o r a t i n g J o s s h o u s e s , b u t

v i l e d e n s , e v e n l a b e l l i n g t h e w h i s k e y b o t t l e s .

I n t h e C h i n e s e t e m p l e w a s a f i g u r e o f t h e J o s s , i n w h i ch

I r e c o g n i z e d a d e g r a d a t i o n o f B u d d h a . O n h i s a l t a r w a s a

d i s h c o n t a i n i n g v a r i - c o l o u r e d c a n d i e s . T h e C h i n e s e i d l e d

a r o u n d w i t h o u t r e v e r e n c e o r s o l e m n i t y . O n e t o l d m e t h a t

i t w a s a t h r e e - d a y f e s t i va l o r m i s s i o n . A t t h e e n d o f t h r e e

d a y s I w e n t t h a t w a y i n t h e e v e n i n g , a n d a t m i d n i g h t

w i t n e s s e d a s t r a n g e p r o c e s s i o n . T h e s t r e e t f o r t w o h u n -

d r e d y a r d s w a s f r i n g e d w i t h f i r e f r o m l i t t l e b u n d l e s o f t o w ,

a t w h i c h h u n d r e d s o f C h i n e s e w e r e l i g h t i n g c a n d l e s , m u c h

i n t h e s a m e w a y a s a t t h e f e s t i v a l o f t o r c h e s ( M o c c o l i ) ,



48 MY PILGRIMAGEw h i c h c l o s e s t h e C a r n i v a l a t R o m e . B e t w e e n t h e s e m u l t i -

tudes mar ched the procession, with mechan ical noises

meant for music . M i d w a y i n t h e p r o c e s s i o n w e r e s i x o r

s e v e n p r i e s t s i n r e d g a r b , a n d b e h i n d t h e s e , u p l i f t e d o n

the shoulders of four men, was the Joss, a variegated

d u m m y w i t h u p l i f t e d a r m s w h i c h s t a r t l e d m e . I t w a s l i k e

s o m e m o c k e r y o f t h e P o p e b o r n e i n o n s h o u l d e r s t o b l e s s '

the cr owd on New Year 's Day .

I f o u n d t h e C h i n e s e t h e a t r e i n t e r e s t i n g . A n a t t e n t i v e

Chinam an sat in my box and undertook to explain to me

t h e p l o t . T h e i n t e r e s t o f t h i s w a s t h a t t h e h e r o a n d h i s

w i f e , p u r s u e d b y e n e m i e s , f i n d t h a t t h e y c a n n o t b o t h b e

s a v e d ; h e p r e p a r e s t o d i e , b u t s h e s e i z e s h i s s w o r d a n d

k i ll s h e r s e l f . B u t h e , s t i l l p u r s u e d , c a n n o t b e s a v e d e x c e p t

b y t o u c h i n g t h e a l t a r o f t h e J o s s . I n o r d e r , h o w e v e r , t o

s e e k t h a t a s y l u m h e m u s t n e e d s b e c o m e a p r i e s t ; but by

b e c o m i n g a p r i e s t h e d i v o r c e s h i m s e l f f r o m h i s o t h e r w i f e ,

w h o i s a s i s t e r o f t h e E m p e r o r . T h i s h i g h l y d e c o r a t e d w i f e

e n t e r s t h e t e m p l e a n d f i n d s h e r h u s b a n d b e s i d e t h e a l t a r ,

t u r n e d p r i e s t . W i t h l o u d l a m e n t a t i o n s s h e t r i e s t o d r a g

him from the altar . F a i l i n g t h a t , s h e t r i e s c a j o l e r y , a n d

w e w i t n e s s e d t h e f a s c i n a t i o n s o f a C h i n a w o m a n t r y i n g t o

c a p t i v a t e h e r l o r d . My Chinam an a gain explain s : " She

v e l l y s o r r y . S h e w i l l h a v e h i m b a c k . S h e h a v e n o p r i e s t .

S h e c r y g o o d d e a l . " S h e d i d c r y a g o o d d e a l , b u t w h i l e

t h e t w o w e r e t a l k i n g t h e c u r t a i n c a m e d o w n , a n d I u n d e r -

stood that the conc lusion would come next evening . At

a n y r a t e , I k n o w n o t t o t h i s d a y w h e t h e r t h e h e r o i n e c o a x e d

h e r l o r d b a c k o r n o t , o r w h e t h e r h e w a s s l a i n b y h i s p u r -

s u e r s . But it was an anc ient story, and in it were the

i d e a s o f a s y l u m a n d o f p r i e s t l y c e l i b a c y .

S a n F r a n c i s c o s t r u c k m e a s c o s m o p o l i t a n , o c c u p y i n g a

p l a c e s i m i l a r t o t h a t o f a n c i e n t V e n i c e . A l o n g i t s s t r e e t s



SAN FRANCISCO 4 9

w e r e c o s t u m e s a n d c o m p l e x i o n s o f v a r i o u s t r i b e s , a p p a r -

e n t l y e x c i t i n g n o a t t e n t i o n . T h e r e w a s a l s o c o s m o p o l i t a n -

i s m i n t h e a b s e n c e o f a n y b l a s e air in those I met,-

r e f i n e d a n d e d u c a t e d p e o p l e . T h e y a p p e a r e d n o t a b l y f r e e

f r o m p r o v i n c i a l i s m . Mrs . N o r r i s t o l d m e t h a t w h e n R a l p h

Waldo Emerson was there she asked him how he liked

the Yosemite ; h e r e p l i e d , " I t i s t h e o n l y t h i n g I h a v e

s e e n o u t h e r e t h a t c o m e s u p t o t h e b r a g . " But San Fran -

c i s c o t r a v e l s f a s t ; i t h a s l e f t b r a g b e h i n d s o f a r t h a t

n o b o d y a d v i s e d m e t o s e e Y o s e m i t e .

I m e t s o m e p a r t e d f r o m i n b o y h o o d a n d t h e n t h o u g h t

o f a s i f p a s s i n g i n t o a n o t h e r w o r l d . Mr. V a l e n t i n e P e y -

t o n a n d h i s s i s t e r , r e l a t i v e s w h o s e p a r t i n g f r o m u s i n

Virginia I c ould just remember, gave me a gran d re-

c e p t i o n. H e h a d f o u n d e d a r a c e i n S a n F r a n c i s c o , a n d i n

h i s h o u s e I w a s s u r r o u n d e d b y h i s c h i l d r e n a n d g r a n d -

c h i l d r e n . Mrs . N o r r i s , w h o m I h a d k n o w n i n m y s t u d e n t

d a y s a s t h e b e a u t i f u l y o u n g w i f e o f T h o m a s S t a r r K i n g ,

e n t e r t a i n e d m e i n h e r m a n s i o n , a n d g a v e m e a n a m u s i n g

a c c o u n t o f h e r j o u r n e y t o t h e Y o s e m i t e w i t h t h e E m e r -

s o n p a r t y . At the house of Mr . a n d M r s . De Young of

t h e " C h r o n i c l e " I m e t p e o p l e s o c h a r m i n g t h a t I b e g a n

t o t h i n k S a n F r a n c i s c o w a s a f t e r a l l t h e p r o p e r p l a c e t o

m i g r a t e t o f r o m L o n d o n .

S e a t e d o n a t u g , a w a i t i n g m a i l s f r o m t h e E a s t , w i t h

w h i c h I a m t o g o o u t t o o u r r o y a l P a c i f i c s h i p , a n o l d

g e n t l e m a n b e g u i l e d t h e h o u r s t i l l m i d n i g h t w i t h h i s m e m o -

r i e s o f C a l i f o r n i a . H e h a d b e e n o n e o f t h e " Argonauts ; "

h e b a d s o u g h t t h e G o l d e n F l e e c e , a n d c o u l d t e l l m e o f t h e

m a n y w h o f l e e c e d a n d t h e m o r e w h o w e r e f l e e c e d . He was

u n i m a g i n a t i v e , b u t h i s d r y n a r r a t i v e s t r u n g f a c t s s u f f i -

c i e n t l y p o e t i c . H e n a m e d t h e m i l l i o n a i r e s w h o s e m a n s i o n s

s t a n d w h e r e o n c e t h e y s o l d w h i s k e y a n d t h e i r w i v e s c o o k e d



50 MY PILGRIMAGEf o r m i n e r s . One generation had witnessed the growth of

a c a m p o f n o m a d s t o a b r i l l i a n t c i t y , b u t t o t h i s d a y h e

said the majority of those who cam e to San Francisco

h a v e d e e p i n t h e m t h e h o p e o f s p e n d i n g t h e i r l a s t y e a r s

somewhere else .

Presently we accomp anied one hundred a nd fifty huge

m a i l b a g s t o t h e s h i p A u s t r a l i a . E v e r y s a c k w a s a w i t n e s s

to the vast numbers who had c ome to the golden shore

o n l y t o f i n d i t a g a t e t o s h o r e s b e y o n d .

A t o n e o ' c l o c k o u r s h i p m o v e d n o i s e l e s s l y a l o n g a g l i t t e r -

i n g p a t h t o w a r d a m o o n j u s t r i s e n l i k e a d o u b l e e a g l e ; b u t

w e s o o n l e f t i t b e h i n d u s , a n d f e l t t h e w a r m b r e a t h o f t h e

s o u t h e r n P a c i f i c . A h , t h e S o u t h ! t h e S o u t h ! Deep d own

i n e v e r y b r e a s t t h e r e i s a M i g n o n s i g h i n g f o r t h e f i n e rgold-T h e l a n d w h e r e t h e c i t r o n s b l o o m ,

A n d t h e g o l d o r a n g e l i g h t s t h e l e a f y g l o o m .

Voyaging these summ er seas, gently gliding to soft

ripple of bluest waves, between Elysian dawns an d Hes-

p e r i a n s u n s e t s , s i n k i n g m o r e a n d m o r e i n t o a s w e e t d a y -

dream, dr inking deeper the draught of Lethe,-e on

t h i s f l o a t i n g P a c i f i c i s l a n d l e a r n e d m o r e i n a w e e k t h a n

a n t h r o p o l o g y c a n t e l l u s a b o u t t h e i s l a n d e r s . We experi-

e n c e d t h e i r e v o l u t i o n . B y t h e t i m e w e r e a c h e d t h e H a w a i -

i a n s I w a s o n e o f t h e m . I t t o o k o n l y t h r e e d a y s t o m a k e

our upper deck one of the Society Islands . We had no

c l i q u e n o r c a s t e . O u r s h i p r o l l e d o u t o f F r i s c o w a t e r s ,

b u t a s i t a p p r o a c h e d t h e t r o p i c i t s r o l l s t u r n e d t o t h e e a s y

swing of a hammock . We had hammoc ks swung on deck,

b u t t h e A u s t r a l i a h a v i n g t u r n e d i n t o o n e , t h e y w e r e l e f t

f o r t h e p l a y o f t h e y o u n g e r c h i l d r e n . I s a y y o u n g e r , f o r

t h o u g h s o m e o f u s a r e o l d , y e t a l l c h i l d r e n - o r n e a r l y a l l .

T h e h u s b a n d w h o w a t c h e d s o a n x i o u s l y b e s i d e a p a l e w i f e ,



SHAKESPEARE-BACONISM 5 1

a n s w e r e d a b l o o m o n h e r c h e e k w i t h a s m i l i n g c e r t a i n t y

t h a t h e a l t h i s g a i n e d a t l a s t ( c r e d u l o u s c h i l d ! ) . T h e s p e c -

u l a t o r w h o h a d b r o o d e d o v e r l o s t t h o u s a n d s r e c o v e r e d

them all when his number in the sweepstakes on the

b o a t ' s r u n t u r n e d u p w i n n e r .

W h e n w e f i r s t g a t h e r e d i n t h e s m o k i n g - r o o m t h e c o n -

v e r s a t i o n f e l l o n S h a k e s p e a r e . I n S t . L o u i s I h a d b e e n

v i s i t e d b y M r. H o l m e s , w h o h a d w r i t t e n a b o o k t o p r o v e

t h a t L o r d B a c o n w r o t e t h e p l a y s a s c r i b e d t o S h a k e s p e a r e .

An Australia n gentlema n mentioned that the late Dr .

Thompson of Melbourn e -a g r e a t a u t h o r i t y o n t y p h u s

- w a s a n e n t h u s i a s t i c b e l i e v e r i n t h e t h e o r y t h a t L o r d

B a c o n w r o t e t h e p l a y s a t t r i b u t e d t o S h a k e s p e a r e . He

w r o t e a w o r k t o p r o v e t h a t t h e o r y , a n d h i s f r i e n d s a i d D r .

Thompson would have par ted from anythin g on earth

s o o n e r t h a n t h a t c o n v i c t i o n . T h i s i s o f p s y c h o l o g i c a l i n -

t e r e s t . W h a t i s t h e r e i n t h e s u b s t i t u t i o n o f o n e n a m e

f o r a n o t h e r o n t h e t i t l e - p a g e o f a b o o k , t o e x c i t e s u c h

e n t h u s i a s m ?

J u s t b e f o r e l e a v i n g Ca l i f o r n i a I r e c e i v e d f r o m a g e n t l e -

m a n i n t h a t r e g i o n a n e l a b o r a t e m a n u s c r i p t a d v o c a t i n g

t h i s n o t i o n , a n d a n o t e s a y i n g t h a t h e w a s " a s s e r e n e l y

a n d j o y f u l l y a n d e x u l t i n g l y s u r e o f t h i s a s o f a n y m o r t a l

t h i n g " - l a n g u a g e o n e m i g h t e x p e c t f r o m a S a l v a t i o n i s t .

I once met Mr . A t k i n s o n , H a r r i e t M a r t i n e a u ' s f a m o u s

f r i e n d , a n d f o u n d t h e 1 1 Baconian " t h e o r y w a s h i s s u b s t i -

t u t e f o r C h r i s t i a n i t y . T h a t t h i s i d e a a b o u t B a c o n w r i t -

i n g S h a k e s p e a r e s h o u l d f l i t a r o u n d t h e w o r l d a n d f i l l i t s

b e l i e v e r s w i t h a n e x a l t a t i o n a n d p e a c e w h i c h t h e w o r l d

c a n n o t g i v e , i s p h e n o m e n a l .

O n e m o r n i n g a f l y i n g f i s h a l i g h t e d o n o u r u p p e r d e c k ,

c a u s i n g a s e n s a t i o n a m o n g u s . H i s g r a c e f u l , s i l v e r y l i t t l e

b o d y w a s s e n t t o t h e c o o k ; h i s w i n g s w e r e p r e s e r v e d b y



5 2 MY PILGRIMAGEt h e d o c t o r . P o o r l i t t l e t r a n s c e n d e n t a l i s t ! how long had

h e d r e a m e d o f t h i s h u g e U n k n o w n P o w e r , p r o p e l l e d b y a n

i n s c r u t a b l e s c r e w , p a s s i n g t h r o u g h t h e f i r m a m e n t a b o v e

h i s e l e m e n t ? O n e r e s o l u t e f l i g h t i n t o t h e e m p y r e a n , o n e

wild effort to penetrate the Unknowable, and he gained

f u l l s i g h t o f t h e c h e s s - p l a y i n g , n o v e l - r e a d i n g O l y m p i a n s ;

b u t i t w a s o n l y t o p e r i s h . Meanwhile, among his less

a s p i r i n g c o m p a n i o n s o f t h e d e e p h e h a s p e r h a p s l e f t t h e

legend of an ascension . L e s s s o r r o w f u l w a s t h e f a t e o f

t h e h u g e s u n f i s h c a u g h t u n d e r t h e b o w o f t h e s h i p , w h e n c e

i t c o u l d n o t f r e e i t s e l f . I t w a s l a r g e a n d h e a v y e n o u g h t o

r e t a r d t h e p r o g r e s s o f t h e A u s t r a l i a . Efforts were made

t o s e c u r e i t ; for we all saw it and would have lovingly

e a t e n i t ; b u t w h e n t h e o b s t r u c t e d s h i p w a s s t o p p e d , a n d

t h e p r e s s u r e o f t h e w a t e r t h a t h e l d t h e g r e a t f i s h r e m o v e d ,

it darted away . H a p p y s u n f i s h , t h a t y o u r s o l a r a f f i n i t i e s

were limited to your na me ! Alas for your winged con-

t e m p o r a r y t h a t p e r i s h e d i n m o u n t i n g t o o u r s t e a m - w i n g e d

s e a - m o n s t e r

I lay in m y hamm ock dreaming on "the attribute of

wings . " T h i s w a s t h e t i t l e o f a n e s s a y b y T o u s s e n e l t r a n s -

lated by Dr . L a z a r u s f o r m y " Dial " ( C i n c i n n a t i , 1 8 6 0 ) .

I n h i s e x q u i s i t e l y w i n g e d f a n t a s y T o u s s e n e l s p o k e o f t h e

" q u e e n o f d a n c e , " T a g l i o n i a s L a S y l p h i d e , " " whose wings

f a l l a t t h e f i r s t k i s s o f l o v e . " I w a s t o o l a t e i n E u r o p e t o

see Taglioni on the stage, but had the honour of being

seated beside her in London at a dinner given by the

lord mayor to authors and artists ; a nd a lovely a nd

s p i r i t u e l l e lady she was, happy in teaching others her

b e a u t i f u l a r t . For her genius had not all lodged in her

f e e t .

W h a t a c o n t r a s t b e t w e e n h e r a n d t h e b r i l l i a n t P u r i t a n

l a d y , D e l i a B a c o n , w h o s e w i n g s e x p a n d e d u n d e r t h e j o i n t



DELIA BACON 53

t o u c h o f h e r e l o q u e n t b r o t h e r , R e v . L e o n a r d B a c o n , a n d

E m e r s o n , a n d l e d h e r -u n k i s s e d o f l o v e - t o l e a p a l o f t

t o d e a t h ! F o r i t i s m y b e l i e f t h a t h e r d e l u s i o n a b o u t

Shakespeare had birth in Emerson' s lecture, "Shake-

s p e a r e ; o r T h e P o e t " ( R e p r e s e n t a t i v e M e n , 1 8 5 0 ) . A f t e r

a l l h i s e x a l t a t i o n o f S h a ke s p e a r e t h e g h o s t o f P u r i t a n i s m

s e i z e d E m e r s o n ' s p e n a n d a d d e d : " H e w a s m a s t e r o f t h e

r e v e l s o f m a n k i n d . . . . I c a n n o t m a r r y t h i s f a c t t o h i s

v e r s e ; . . . i t m u s t e v e n g o i n t o t h e w o r l d ' s h i s t o r y t h a t

t h e b e s t p o e t l e d a n o b s c u r e a n d p r o f a n e l i f e , u s i n g h i s

genius for the amusement of mankind ." Two or three

y e a r s a f t e r t h i s , D e l i a B a co n , a t e a c h e r i n B o s t o n , s e n t t o

" P u t n a m ' s M a g a z i n e " h e r d e n i a l t h a t t h e g r e a t p o e m s

c o u l d h a v e b e e n w r i t t e n b y t h e " i l l i t e r a t e " m a n a g e r o f t h e

G 0 s o r d i d p l a y - h o u s e . " Th e m a g a z i n e h e s i t a t e d t o p r i n t i t ,

a n d i t d i d n o t a p p e a r u n t i l J a n u a r y , 1 8 5 6 . I t w a s a n o n -

y m o u s , a n d t h e n a m e o f L o r d B a c o n w a s n o t i n i t ; b u t

t h e c o n c l u d i n g p a r a g r a p h i n t i m a t e s t h a t t h e r e w a s " one "

w h o w o u l d b e c o n n e c t e d w i t h t h e p l a y s i n a f u r t h e r a r t i c l e .

B u t n o o t h e r a r t i c l e a p p e a r e d , f o r D e l i a h a d g o n e t o L o n -

d o n i n 1 8 5 3 , a n d w a s d e e p i n h e r v o l u m e , " T h e P h i l o s o -

p h y o f t h e P l a y s o f S h a k e s p e a r e , " w h i c h a p p e a r e d t h e r e

in 1857 . D e l i a B a c o n ' s c h i e f a i m w a s t o p r e s e r v e t h e

g r e a t e s t w o r k s e v e r w r i t t e n f r o m a s s o c i a t i o n w i t h t h e

greenroom a nd the playhouse and conn ect them with

t h e s e r i o u s p u r p o s e s o f t h e g r e a t a n d l e a r n e d m e n a t t h e

head of whom stood Lord Bac on . She was no Bacon

w o r s h i p p e r .

B u t t o w h a t a r a m b l i n g d i g r e s s i o n h a v e I b e e n l e d b y

~ ° B a c o n i a n " d i s c u s s io n s o f t h e A u s t r a l i a !

I t g a v e m e m u c h p l e a s u r e t o k n o w t h a t w e w e r e t o p a s s

a w h o l e d a y i n H o n o l u l u , w h e r e e a r l y t r a v e l l e r s had

r e p o r t e d a c h a r m i n g p l a y o f h u m a n l i f e ; b u t a l a s , w e



54 MY PILGRIMAGEw e r e a l l i n a m a n n e r w r e c k e d t h e r e . T h e d e s e r t o n w h i c h

we were cast was the Sabbath . The old Blue Laws of

N e w E n g l a n d , s u p p o s e d b y s o m e t o b e m y t h i c a l , w e r e v e r y

real a t Honolulu . S a b b a t a r i a n i s m i s r e m o r s e l e s s e n o u g h

i n t h e S o u t h : o n e w h o w a s a s k e d w h e t h e r h e h a d e v e r b e e n

in a certain Virginia town answered, "Yes, I was there

three weeks one Sunday . " B u t n o w h e r e e l s e i n t h e w o r l d

w a s I e v e r s o w a y l a i d a n d p l u n d e r e d b y t h e S a b b a t h a s i n

Honolulu . A man may be a rrested even for having his

shop window open . O u r s h i p ' s c o m p a n y w e n t a b o u t i n t h e

fervid heat with parched throats, unable to get even a

g l a s s o f s o d a w a t e r-o r i n d e e d a n y c o l d w a t e r a t a l l , t h e

s a l e o f i c e b e i n g p r o h i b i t e d . S o f a r a s t h e n a t i v e s w e r e

c o n c e r n e d , i n s t e a d o f t h e i r s p o r t s a n d d a n c e s w h i c h a c i v -

ilized Sunday would have shown us, they were about as

l i v e l y a s a c e m e t e r y . A p p a r e n t l y t h e p o l i c e w e r e d o u b l e d

fo r the pu r pose of pou n ci n g o n a ny p oo r Haw aiia n

a t t e m p t i n g t o s e l l l i t t l e s o u v e n i r s o r f r u i t , a n d t o p r e v e n t

our having com fort, much less fun, on shore . Howpleased the Lord must have been to observe from his

throne how we were offered as human sacr ifices to his

S a b b a t h !

O b s e r v i n g j u s t i n s i d e t h e o p e n d o o r o f a s m a l l c o n v e n -

t i c l e a b u c k e t o f w a t e r w i t h a c o c o a n u t d i p p e r , I e n t e r e d

and got a cool drink . A Hawaiian p reacher was speak-

i n g t o a s m a l l c o m p a n y o f h i s o w n r a c e i n E n g l i s h . All

were dressed in solemn a nd heavy black, - on that

b u r n i n g d a y , - a n d a f t e r l i s t e n i n g a l i t t l e t h e b l a c k g a r b

seemed but too true a symbol of the gloomy gospel im-

p o r t e d i n t o t h e o n c e h a p p y i s l a n d s . Passing on through

t h e s e p u l c h r a l ' s t r e e t s , I e n t e r e d a c h u r c h w h e r e a w h i t e

p r e a c h e r w a s h o l d i n g f o r t h t o h u m b l e H a w a i i a n s , o f f e r i n g

t h e m d o g m a t i c s t o n e s w h e r e t h e y n e e d e d b r e a d . I imagine

s



A HONOLULU SABBATH 5 5

t h a t h e w a s a t H o n o l u l u b e c a u s e e l s e w h e r e n o c o n g r e g a -

t i o n w o u l d l i s t e n t o s u c h s t u f f .

T h e S a b b a t h i s a g r e a t s n o b . I n H o n o l u l u i t a c c o m m o -

d a t e d i t s e l f t o r o y a l t y , f o r w e s a w t h e k i n g e n j o y i n g h i s

y a c h t ; a l s o t o c o m m e r c e , f o r t h e s a i l o r s , a s s i s t e d b y

H a w a i i a n s , p a s s e d t h e w h o l e d a y u n l o a d i n g a n d r e l o a d -

i n g o u r s h i p .

I w a s g l a d t o m e e t o n e y o u n g g e n t l e m a n , M r . Frank

D a m o n , w h o w a s i n t e r e s t i n g h i m s e l f i n t h e h e a l t h a n d

c o m f o r t o f t h e h a l f - c a s t e p o p u l a t i o n , - mixture of

Chinese and Hawaiia n, -and who showed me through

a l a r g e h o m e f o r t h e o r p h a n s o f s u c h p a r e n t a g e . He wa s

t h o r o u g h l y e d u c a t e d , a n d f a m i l i a r w i t h t h e C h i n e s e l a n -

guage . H i s f a t h e r , t h e R e v . D r . D a m o n , w h o m I a l s o m e t ,

g a v e m e s o m e c o p i e s o f a m o n t h l y t h e y w e r e e d i t i n g, " The

Friend" (founded in 1843) . I n i t I r e a d a n a u t h e n t i c

acc ount of the death of Captain Cook in 1779 . His

s a i l o r s h a d s e i z e d a n o l d w o o d e n g o d t o u s e f o r k i n d l i n g

wood . T h e n a t i v e s t r i e d t o r e c o v e r t h e i r g o d ; t h e r e

w a s a f i g h t ; and Cap tain Cook, runnin g up to know

w h a t w a s t h e t r o u b l e , w a s s p e a r e d i n t h e b a c k . In 1811

a n a t i v e y o u t h n a m e d O b o o k i a b , q u e s t i o n e d a b o u t t h i s

w o o d e n g o d , s a i d t h a t t h e H a w a i i a n s b e l i e v e d t h a t w h e n

t h e y h a d m a d e s u c h a f o r m a n d s e t i t u p t h e s p i r i t " would

c o m e a n d l i v e i n t h e w o o d , a n d w h e n t h e w o o d g e t s o l d

t h e y m a k e a n e w w o o d e n g o d , a n d t h e s p i r i t g o e s o u t o f

t h e o l d o n e a n d c o m e s t o l i v e i n t h e n e w . " I r e c e i v e d a

s t r o n g i m p r e s s i o n t h a t t h e s p i r i t o f t h a t w o o d e n g o d h a d

p a s s e d i n t o t h e S a b b a t h I d o l .

A y o u n g E n g l i s h m a n a n d m y s e l f m a n a g e d , h o w e v e r , t o

g e t a H a w a i i a n t o d r i v e u s i n a n o p e n c a r r i a g e s i x o r s e v e n

m i l e s i n t o t h e c o u n t r y a l o n g t h e s e a s i d e . We had thus a

f e w h o u r s ' e n j o y m e n t o f t h e b e a u t i f u l t r e e s a n d f l o w e r s



56 MY PILGRIMAGEa n d b i r d s , a d e l i c i o u s b a t h i n t h e s e a , t h e h a p p i n e s s o f o u r

e x p e d i t i o n b e i n g e n h a n c e d b y a r e l i g i o u s s a t i s f a c t i o n i n

h a v i n g d e f i e d t h e W o o d e n I d o l .

O n t h e s h i p w e h a d b e a u t i f u l d a y s , a l w a y s b l u e w i t h

s o f t z e p h y r s , a n d I l a y i n m y h a m m o c k , g e n t l y s w u n g b y

t h e s h i p ' s m o t i o n . In a slumbrous way I read some

l i t t l e p a p e r s p i c k e d u p a t H o n o l u l u , t h e m o s t i n t e r e s t i n g

b e i n g a n a l m a n a c ( 1 8 8 3 ) c o n t a i n i n g s o m e H a w a i i a n p r o -

v e r b s c o l l e c t e d b y H . L . S h e l d o n . S e v e r a l o f t h e m w e r e

o r i g i n a l . " D a u b e d w i t h w h i t e " i s s a i d o f a s i l l y g r e y -

h a i r e d p e r s o n . " D o n ' t b e f r i e n d s w i t h t h e d o g , f o r t h e

t a i l w i l l s h o w i t , " h a s r e f e r e n c e t o d i s r e p u t a b l e a c q u a i n t -

a n c e s . " C h i l d r e n a l w a y s b e g i n a t t h e f o u n t a i n . "

One proverb pa rticularly imp ressed me : "The k a l o

r o o t i s d e a d , b u t t h e r e a r e l i v e m a g g o t s e n o u g h . " Kalo

i s t h e t a r o of New Zealand- arum e s c u l e n t u m , a kind

o f l i l y , w h o s e r o o t i s b e t w e e n a y a m a n d a p o t a t o -a nd

w h e n i t d i e s i s s o o n f u l l o f m a g g o t s . Mr . S h e l d o n s a y s

t h i s p r o v e r b w a s " f o r m e r l y a p p l i e d t o b a t t l e s i n w h i c h t h e

b r a v e s t b a d p e r i s h e d , b u t i n t h e s e m o d e r n t i m e s h a s b e e n

a p p l i e d b y s c o f f e r s t o t h e o v e r t h r o w o f p a g a n i s m a n d t h e

g r o w t h o f C h r i s t i a n i t y i n i t s p l a c e . "

T h e s t o r y o f t h e o v e r t h r o w o f p a g a n i s m i n t h e H a w a i i a n

I s l a n d s w i l l n e v e r b e f a i r l y t o l d , b u t t h e r e i s e n d l e s s l y

r e p e a t e d t h e d r a m a t i c l e g e n d o f t h e l a d y c o n v e r t K a p i o -

l a n i d e f y i n g t h e v o l c a n i c g o d d e s s P e l e b y a p p r o a c h i n g

t h e b l a z i n g c r a t e r o f M a u n a L o a , d e s p i t e p r e d i c t i o n s o f

d i s a s t e r b y t h e p r i e s t e s s o f P e l e . T h e l a d y o f r a n k , i t i s

s a i d , c r i e d o u t t o t h e f e a r f u l c r o w d , " J e h o v a h i s m y G o d .

H e k i n d l e d t h o s e f i r e s . I f e a r n o t P e l e . I f I p e r i s h b y

t h e a n g e r o f P e l e , t h e n y o u m a y f e a r t h e p o w e r o f P e l e ;

b u t i f I t r u s t i n J e h o v a h a n d b e s h o u l d s a v e m e f r o m t h e

w r a t h o f P e l e , t h e n y o u m u s t s e r v e a n d f e a r t h e L o r d



VOLCANIC THEOLOGY 57

Jehovah . A l l t h e g o d s o f H a w a i i a r e v a i n . G r e a t i s J e h o -

v a h ' s g o o d n e s s i n s e n d i n g t e a c h e r s t o t u r n u s f r o m t h e s e

v a n i t i e s t o t h e l i v i n g G o d . " P e l e t h e n c e f o r t h l o s t h e r

p o p u l a r i t y .

K a p i o l a n i i s a s a i n t a m o n g t h e m i s s i o n a r i e s , b u t a c c o r d -

i n g t o t h e l e g e n d s h e b a d s i m p l y s u b s t i t u t e d a J e w i s h f o r

a H a w a i i a n n a m e f o r t h e " k i n d l e r " o f v o l c a n o e s . O u t o f

v o l c a n o e s c a m e t h e b e l i e f i n a f i r e - a n d - b r i m s t o n e h e l l ;

Mauna Loa took up the burden of Etna, an d Hawaiians

a r e s t i l l t e r r o r i z e d b y v o l c a ni c t h e o l o g y . In G ° T h e F r i e n d "

I r e a d i t s f i e r y g o s p e l . A f t e r w i t n e s s i n g a n e r u p t i o n a m i s -

s i o n a r y w r i t e s : " W e k n e l t u p o n t h e r o c k s a n d j o i n e d o u r

f e e b l e v o i c e s i n a d o r a t i o n o f t h e w i s e , t h e g o o d , t h e g r e a t ,

a n d g l o r i o u s A u t h o r o f a l l . " W h e n l a v a w a s t h r e a t e n i n g

t h e t o w n H i l o , a m i s s i o n a r y w r i t e s : " What a work this

f i e r y s e r p e n t i s d o i n g , e a t i n g e v e r y h e r b a n d t r e e , d r i n k-

i n g u p t h e r i v e r s , a n d l i c k i n g u p t h e d u s t . A l l i s l i f e a n d

verdure below - a l l e b o n b l a c k n e s s a n d d e s o l a t i o n b e -

h i n d . " Th u s o n e o f t h e s e b r e t h r e n s e e s a f i e r y s e r p e n t i n

w h a t t h e o t h e r k n e e l s t o . '

T h e m o s t p a i n f u l a s p e c t o f t h e c o u r s e o f h u m a n e v e n t s

i s t h e f r e q u e n c y w i t h w h i c h " s e l f - s a c r i f i c i n g " e f f o r t s f o r

h u m a n b e n e f i t b e a r e v i l r e s u l t s . S o m e o f t h e e a r l y m i s -

s i o n a r i e s t o t h e H a w a i i a n I s l a n d s , l i v i n g a t a t i m e w h e n

e v e n s o m e a b l e m e n b e l i e v e d t h a t t h e s o - c a l l e d " h e a t h e n "

w o u l d b e d a m n e d , l e f t b e a u t i f u l h o m e s a n d f a i r e s t p r o s -

p e c t s f o r w i l d a n d d a n g e r o u s r e g i o n s t o r e s c u e t h o s e t h e y

i T h e s u b s t i t u t i o n o f J e h o v a h f o r P e l e w a s a t r a n s f e r o f t h e t i t l e o f

H a w a i i f r o m t h e n a t i v e s t o t h e C h r i s t i a n s . I t a l s o i n f l i c t e d o n t h e n a t i v e s

t h e c r u e l S a b b a t h . A n d f u r t h e r i t m a d e m o r e m a l a r i o u s t h e m o r a l a t m o s -

phere ; f o r i n 1 8 8 7 t h e P r i n c e s s L i k i L i k i w a s s a i d t o h a v e s t a r v e d h e r s e l f t o

d e a t h a s a s a c r i f i c e t o J e h o v a h t o a p p e a s e f l a m i n g M a n n a L o a . She was

e d u c a t e d i n A m e r i c a , a n d m a r r i e d a n A m e r i c a n ( A . B . Cl e g h o r n ) , b u t t h e

a n c i e n t e x a c t i o n o f P e l e o f a r o y a l v i c t i m s u r v i v e d w i t h f a t a l f o r c e u n d e r

t h e v o l c a n i c J e h o v a h .



58 MY PILGRIMAGEs u p p o s e d p e r i s h i n g . A p a t h e t i c h i s t o r y i s t h a t o f t h e R e v .

Titus Coan (father of the well-known writer Dr . T i t u s

Munson Coan of New York), who, escap ing from long cap-

tivity among the Patagonia ns, reached his home and his

betrothed br ide, Fidelia Church of Churc hville, New

York, but only to set out again for m ission work . In

November, 1834, he started with his bride for Hawaii,

e x i l e s f r o m a l l t h e y h e l d d e a r e s t s a v e t h e i r u n i t e d h e a r t s .

I n s u c h s e r v i c e t h e i r f i n e q u a l i t i e s w e r e g i v e n t o s a v e

a n d b e n e f i t a r a c e w h i c h , i n s t e a d o f b e i n g c u l t i v a t e d a n d

d e v e l o p e d u n d e r C h r i s t i a n i t y , h a s b e c o m e e x t i n c t . Wh at

w o r t h t h e y p u t i n t o t h e i r w o r k w a s r e t u r n e d t o t h e m i n

t h e i r o w n h o m e s , a n d i n t h e h a p p i n e s s o f s o m e i n d i v i d u a l

natives around them ; b u t a s t o t h e H a w a i i a n r a c e , t h e i r

p o w e r t o b e n e f i t w a s n o t s o g r e a t a s t h e p o w e r o f t h e i r

r e g i m e t o d e s t r o y t h o s e p o o r i s l a n d e r s . Their theology

a l o n e m i g h t h a v e b e e n i n n o c u o u s , f o r t h e H a w a i i a n s c o u l d

not have understood it ; t h e m o r a l s y s t e m , t h e s u p e r s t i -

t i o n t h a t n u d i t y i s w i c k e d , t h a t g a i e t y a n d p l e a s u r e a r e

o f f e n s i v e t o G o d , a n d c o n s e q u e n t c h a n g e s i n t h e i r w a y s

of life, as Charles Darwin pointed out,-hese are

t h e t h i n g s f a t a l t o t r o p i c a l t r i b e s . Dr . Titus M . C o a n ,

q u o t e d b y D a r w i n i n h i s " Descent of Man," says : " The

[Hawaiian ] natives have undergone a greater change in

t h e i r h a b i t s o f l i f e i n f i f t y y e a r s t h a n E n g l i s h m e n i n a

t h o u s a n d y e a r s . "

I t i s t h e p h i l o s o p h y o f " L a G r a n d e D u c h e s s e " t h a t " i f

y o u c a n ' t g e t w h a t y o u s e t y o u r h e a r t u p o n , y o u m u s t s e t

your heart upon what you can get . " I t i s a p h i l o s o p h y

I found confirmed by experience on the ship Australia .

I t w a s t a n t a l i z i n g t o v o y a g e w i t h a c o n s c i o u s n e s s t h a t a

f e w h o u r s o n o n e o r a n o t h e r o f t h e i s l a n d s m i g h t r e p a y

o n e f o r a l l t h e t r o u b l e o f c o m i n g s o f a r ; b u t o u r s h i p w a s



OFF TUTUILA 59

c y n i ca l l y i n d i f f e r e n t t o b e a u t y a n d a n t h r o p o l o g y . I t a i m e d

t o m a k e S y d n e y i n t i m e n o t t o b e f i n e d f o r d i l a t o r i n e s s

i n b r i n g i n g t h e m a i l . A s w e s a i l e d p a s t t h e i s l a n d o f

T u t u i l a s o m e n a t i v e s w e r e c o n s i d e r a t e e n o u g h t o p a d -

d l e a r o u n d o u r s h i p i n t h e i r c a n o e s , a n d w e f e l t g r a t e f u l

e n o u g h t o p a y t h e m w e l l f o r t h e i r b r e a d f r u i t . They were

h a n d s o m e i n f o r m a n d f i g u r e a n d t h e i r v o i c e s m u s i c a l .

A t a l i t t l e d i s t a n c e t h e y a p p e a r e d t o h a v e o n b l u i s h

d r a w e r s , b u t c l o s e i n s p e c t i o n s h o w e d t h a t i t w a s a r t i s t i c

t a t t o o i n i m i t a t i o n o f c l o t h i n g f r o m h i p t o k n e e . The

n a u t i l u s - l i k e c a n o e s e e m e d t o b e b o r n a n d l o v e d o f t h e

w a v e s o n w h i c h i t f l o a t e d . I n t h e d i s t a n c e w e s a w a c h u r c h

s t e e p l e , a n d a g e n t l e m a n f a m i l i a r w i t h t h e i s l a n d t o l d u s

t h a t t h e o n l y t r o u b l e o f t h e s e i s l a n d e r s i s a n e v e r c e a s i n g

c i v i l w a r b e t w e e n C a t h o l i c s a n d P r o t e s t a n t s. I t b r e a k s

o u t a f r e s h w h e n a n o f f i c i a l i s t o b e e l e c t e d , p r i e s t s a n d

p r e a c h e r s a r o u s i n g a n i m o s i t i e s t h a t l e a d t o b l o w s .

F r o m w e e k t o w e e k o n o u r l i t t l e f l o a t i n g w o r l d w e s a w

n o s a i l . O n e c a n a d a p t h i m s e l f t o a v e r y s m a l l e n v i r o n -

ment . Nobody seemed to find the voya ge tedious . Anh o u r p a s s e s s w i f t l y t o o n e w a t c h i n g t h e a l b a t r o s s ( w i t h

e y e s t o u c h e d b y C o l e r i d g e ) , t h e f l y i n g - f i s h f l u s h e d b y o u r

p r o w , t h e l i t t l e m y s t i c a l f l e e t s o f p e a r l y " P o r t u g u e s e

m e n - o f - w a r . "

W h a t e v e r w e s e e i n n a t u r e t h a t i s b e a u t i f u l o r g r a n d

a p p e a r s s o r e a l t h a t w e f o r e v e r r e n e w t h e V e d i c v i s i o n s ,

a n d i n e a c h f a i r o b j e c t f e e l t h a t w e h a v e s u r p r i s e d s o m e

f e a t u r e o f a s u p r e m e A r t i s t . The immemorial ages have

d e t e r m i n e d t h a t w e s h a l l n e v e r s e e n a t u r e a s i t r e a l l y i s.

Like a pious Scotchma n who objected to the stained

c h u r c h w i n d o w , " t h e y m i g h t b e t t e r h a v e l e f t t h e g l a s s

a s G o d m a d e i t , " w e a l l c r e d i t n a t u r e w i t h t h e m a n y - t i n t e d

v e i l s w o v e n f o r i t b y p o e t a n d m y t h i s t .



6 0 MY PILGRIMAGET h e p r o t o p l a s m o f a l l g o d s a n d m y t h s i s p r e s e n t w i t h

u s a t s e a , a n d i t r e q u i r e d o n l y a w e e k o r s o t o e v o l v e t h e m

a l l i n a q u a s i - r e a l i s t i c w a y n o t k n o w n i n l e a r n e d b o o k s .

A f r e e t s a p p e a r e d i n g u i s e o f w a t e r - s p o u t s . We saw Pro-

t e u s a n d h i s f l o c k i n e n d l e s s i l l u s i o n s , a n d h e a r d o l d T r i -

t o n b l o w h i s w r e a t h e d h o r n i n t h e s m a l l h o u r s o f n i g h t .

C l a s s i c g e o g r a p h e r s m a y c o n j e c t u r e t h e r e g i o n s v i s i t e d b y

Odysseus, but we found them a ll in c loudlands of the

w e s t e r n t w i l i g h t , w i t h p a l m s , g r o v e s , a n d g r o t t o e s o f t h e

S i r e n s . W i t h e v e r y d a w n A p h r o d i t e r i s e s f r o m t h e w a v e s .

I w a t c h e d t w o s t a r s o f t h e f i r s t m a g n i t u d e ; they becam e

the Vedic twin horsemen (Aswins), n ext the Centaur s ;

w h e n o n e s a n k b e n e a t h t h e h o r i z o n , c l e a r l y R o m u l u s h a d

slain Remus, an d Cain Abel .

A s f o r t h e s u n , h e g o t u p f o r u s s p e c i a l p e r f o r m a n c e s

w h i c h i n t e r p r e t e d t h e w h o l e s o l a r m y t h o l o g y . One day he

c a m e f o r t h a s m a r i n e r s h a d n e v e r s e e n h i m b e f o r e - pure

b l u e ; all day everything a nd everybody looked blue .

C a p t a i n B a n n e r m a n s a i d t h i s w a s n e w i n h i s e x p e r i e n c e ;

t h e a s t o n i s h m e n t o f t h e c r e w w a s e v i d e n t , a n d i t b e c a m e

a n x i e t y w h e n a b o u t t h r e e i n t h e a f t e r n o o n t h e r e a p p e a r e d

a r o u n d t h e s u n a v a s t r i n g o f c o p p e r - t i n t e d m i s t . Two

hours later this mist sank and made the horizon seem

b r a s s ; a f t e r s u n s e t t h e r e f l a m e d u p a n a f t e r g l o w t h a t a p -

p e a r e d m i n g l e d o f b l o o d a n d f i r e . On the following day

the sun was blood-red and a n hour before the time for

s u n s e t s a n k b e h i n d t h e w a l l o f c o p p e r t h a t m a d e o u r w e s t -

e r n h o r i z o n . I s a y " w a l l , " f o r i t w a s n o t a c l o u d ; i t w a s

f i x e d t h e r e m o t i o n l e s s a n d o p a q u e e v e n i n g a f t e r e v e n i n g ,

t h e r e s t o f t h e s k y b e i n g c l e a r . On rea chin g New Zealand

w e h e a r d o f t h e t e r r i b l e e a r t h q u a k e a n d v o l c a n i c e r u p t i o n s

i n B a t a v i a .

O n e e v e n i n g w e a l l c r o w d e d o n d e c k f o r t h e f i r s t s i g h t



THE SOUTHERN CROSS 6 1

of the Southern Cross . There it shone, just above the

s o u t h e r n h o r i z o n , p o l i t e l y v e i l i n g i t s f i f t h s t a r - w h i c h

ought to be at the junc ture of the imaginar y bars but

i s n o t , a n d w h e n s e e n r e n d e r s i t d i f f i c u l t t o r u n t h e b a r s

r e g u l a r l y b e t w e e n t h e s t a r s t h a t c o n d u c t t h e m s e l v e s i n a

m o r e C h r i s t i a n - l i k e w a y . W h e n w e f i r s t s a w t h e S o u t h e r n

C r o s s i t s l o n g b a r w a s p a r a l l e l w i t h t h e h o r i z o n , b u t a f t e r

s o m e h o u r s i t s t o o d u p s i d e d o w n , a s i f f o r P e t e r t o b e

crucified with his head downwards, an d slowly sank out

o f s i g h t b e n e a t h t h e C e n t a u r .

The swift app arent revolution of the Southern Cross

d i d n o t e s c a p e t h e P a c i f i c i s l a n d e r s ; t h e y h a v e a b e l i e f

t h a t o n e w a t c h i n g c a r e f u l l y w o u l d s e e i t a t s o m e m o m e n t

t u r n h a l f a r o u n d . I n s e v e r a l i s l a n d s " Q u i c k a s t h e t u r n -

i n g o f t h e S o u t h e r n C r o s s " i s a p r o v e r b i a l p h r a s e .

One or two pa ssengers whispered in m y ear that they

c o u l d n o t s e e a n y c r o s s , a n d a l l w h o s a w i t t h e f i r s t n i g h t

w e r e s i l e n t , b e i n g p l a i n l y d i s a p p o i n t e d . By the second

night faith ha d been summ oned an d the Southern Cross

w a s c l e a r t o n e a r l y a l l . H o w l i t t l e t h e c o n s t e l l a t i o n c o u l d

s u g g e s t a c r o s s t o u n s o p h i s t i c a t e d e y e s i s s h o w n i n t h e

l a b e l g i v e n i t b y t h e P a c i f i c t r i b e s : "The Nose of the

M a n t h a t f e l l a f t e r e a t i n g s u g a r - c a n e . " T h i s r e f e r s t o s o m e

l e g e n d s o a n c i e n t t h a t n o o n e c a n e x p l a i n i t .

T h e r o u g h h o r s e - p l a y o n c e u s u a l o n a l l s h i p s c r o s s i n g

t h e e q u a t o r i s n o w s u p p r e s s e d o n r e s p e c t a b l e s t e a m s h i p s ;

b u t p r o b a b l y t h e r e w a s s o m e p o t e n t o r i g i n f o r t h a t u s a g e ,

f o r a b o u t t h a t l i n e s p o r t s a r e c o m m o n l y g o t u p . W e h a d

t h e m o n t h e A u s t r a l i a - f o o t - r a c e , s t e e p l e - c h a s e , h a n d i -

c a p , h i g h j u m p , l o w j u m p , a n d t u g - o f - w a r . I n t h i s l a s t t h e

English an d American s were outpulled by the Austra-

l i a n s . There was a pr etty race a round the deck between

t h r e e l i t t l e g i r l s ; three ladies ran a n egg and sp oon



62 MY PILGRIMAGEr a c e , w o n b y h e r w h o f i r s t r e a c h e s t h e w i n n i n g - p o s t w i t h -

o u t l e t t i n g t h e e g g f a l l f r o m h e r s p o o n . A p r e t t y y o u n g

b r i d e f r o m S h r o p s h i r e w o n t h e p r i z e a g a i n s t a n A m e r i c a n

a n d a n A u s t r a l i a n c o m p e t i t o r . T h e E n gl i s h l a d y' s s u c c e s s

w a s d u e t o d r e s s i n g f o r h e r t a s k i n a w a y t h a t h e r c o m -

p e t i t o r s w e r e t o o p r u d i s h t o i m i t a t e ; h e r s k i r t f e l l a l i t t l e

b e l o w t h e k n e e .

I n t h e e v e n i n g w e h a d c o n c e r t s , r e a d i n g s , r e c i t a t i o n s ,

l e c t u r e s . I s p u n f o r t h e m a l l t h e y a r n s I kn e w o f t h e s e a ,

- t h e F l y i n g D u t c h m a n , A t l a n t i s , t h e s e a r c h f o r P r e s t e r

John, and the Miemac Saint c arried by the original

Whale to the Happy Isle . A l e a r n e d r a b b i d i s p o s e d o f

t h e n o t i o n t h a t t h e E n g l i s h a r e"

t h e l o s t T r i b e , " o r t h a t

a n y t r i b e w a s l o s t , - t h i s " A n g lo - I s r a e l i t e " d e l u s i o n

b e i n g t h e n a b r e a s t w i t h t h e B a c o n i a n . T h e r e w a s s o m e -

t h i n g s t r i k i n g i n t h e v e n e r a b l e f i g u r e o f t h e r a b b i d i s -

c l a i m i n g f o r h i s r a c e a l l c o n n e c t i o n w i t h t h e r a c e o n w h o s e

e m p i r e t h e s u n n e v e r s e t s , -a c e r t a i n h a l f - c o n s c i o u s p r i d e

a s o f a n o l d a r i s t o c r a t i c f a m i l y r e p u d i a t i n g a p a r v e n u

c o n n e c t i o n . T h e v e n e r a b l e J e w d e c l a r e d t h e r e w a s t o b e

n o r e t u r n o f J e w s t o J e r u s a l e m , a n d n o p e r s o n a l M e s s i a h

t o c o m e ; b u t h e r e p e a t e d a p o e m p r o p h e t i c o f t h e g l o r y

o f I s r a e l i n t h e f u t u r e - i t s e l f t h e M e s s i a h . H i s e c s t a s y

o f f a i t h i n t h i s I s r a e l - M e s s i a h w a s p a t h e t i c , -a s o f s o m e

d e v o t e d w o m a n e v e r w a i t i n g f o r t h e r e t u r n o f h e r b e l o v e d .

H e c a n n e v e r r e t u r n , a s o t h e r s k n o w , bu t s h e n e v e r d o u b t s ;

g i r l h o o d h a s g r o w n t o m a i d e n h o o d , a g e h a s s i l v e r e d h e r

h a i r , b u t s h e h a s d e n i e d e v e r y o t h e r w o o e r , a n d t h r o u g h

h e r s p e c t a c l e s s t i l l g a z e s o n t h e h o r i z o n w h e r e h i s s a i l d i s -

a p p e a r e d . Y e t h e r c o n s t a n c y i s n o t w i t h o u t s o m e r e w a r d .

E v e n h e r e , t h o u s a n d s o f m i l e s f r o m P a l e s t i n e , s h e o n

S u n d a y s i t s i n v i s i b l e b e s i d e t h e r a b b i o n d e c k , a n d l i s t e n s

t o G e n t i l e s i n t h e s a l o o n c h a n t i n g t h e p r o p h e c i e s a n d



AN UNWELCOME SABBATH 63

p s a l m s w i t h w h i c h s h e h a s s u s t a i n e d h e r h e a r t i n t h e l o n g

n i g h t - w a t c h e s .

I n c r o s s i n g t h e 1 8 0 t h p a r a l l e l i t i s n e c e s s a r y t o d r o p a

day . O n o u r v o y a g e t h e o m i t t e d d a y w o u l d b y c a l e n d a r

b e S u n d a y , a n d t h e p r o s p e c t o f g e t t i n g a f o r t n i g h t w i t h -

o u t a S a b b a t h g a v e j o y t o t h e c a r d - p l a y e r s . B u t t h e y h a d

a c r u e l d i s a p p o i n t m e n t . Captain Bann erman could not

v e n t u r e t o d r o p a S a b b a t h ; S a t u r d a y m u s t b e s u b s t i t u t e d .

Efforts were ma de to dissuade him, but he an swered,

" W h a t w o u l d t h e p i o u s l a d i e s s a y ? I t w o u l d d i s t u r b t h e m

a l l t h e r e s t o f t h e v o ya g e t o f e e l t h e m s e l v e s o n a g o d l e s s

s h i p ! "

N e v e r t h e l e s s s o m e o f t h e c a r d - p l a y e r s a p p e a r e d t o f e e l

t h a t t h i s p a r t i c u l a r S u n d a y w a s n o t a g e n u i n e o n e , a n d a s

i t w a s r a i n y t h e l a c k o f a m u s e m e n t i n t h e s m o k i n g - r o o m

w a s s e r i o u s . A s t h e c a p t a i n d i d n o t k e e p a v i g i l a n t e y e

o n t h e r o o m t h a t d a y , t h r e e y o u n g p o k e r - p l a y e r s r e s o l v e d

t o g o a s f a r a s w h i s t . T h e i r d i f f i c u l t y w a s t o f i n d a f o u r t h

hand . Only two others were p resent-myself, absorbed

i n a v o l u m e , a n d a l a r g e m i d d l e - a g e d m a n w h o a p p e a r e d i n

h i s c o r n e r t o b e a s l e e p . H a d I b e e n i n v i t e d I w o u l d g l a d l y

h a v e t a k e n a h a n d , b u t m y m i n i s t e r i a l o f f i c e p r o b a b l y

d e n i e d m e t h a t p l e a s u r e . The other man ba d boarded

o u r s h i p a t H o n o l u l u a n d f o r s o m e r e a s o n h a d n o t m a d e

a c q u a i n t a n c e o f t h e s m o k i n g - r o o m . On this Sunday be

h a d a l l t h e a p p e a r a n c e o f a P r e s b y t e r i a n p r e a c h e r . Hew a s s i x f e e t , h i s f a c e c l e a n s h a v e n , h i s c o u n t e n a n c e

s e v e r e . H e w a s d r e s s e d i n b l a c k b r o a d c l o t h f r o m h e a d t o

f o o t , a n d h i s s t a n d i n g c o l l a r a n d p l a i n s h i r t - f r o n t d i d n o t

n e e d a w h i t e c r a v a t t o s t a m p h i m a s a P u r i t a n m i n i s t e r .

H o w e v e r , t h e t h r e e w e r e d e s p e r a t e , a n d w h e n t h e i m p o s -

i n g m a n u n c l o s e d h i s e y e s a l i t t l e o n e o f t h e m s a i d , ° " W o u l d

you, sir, object -ah-to-a h-takin g a band at whist?"



6 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

T h e b l a c k - g a r b e d m a n t u r n e d o n t h e m f i e r c e l y , h i s d a r k

e y e f l a s h i n g . " I a m s u r p r i s e d , " h e s a i d s o l e m n l y , " t h a t

m e n w e l l d r e s s e d , o n a r e s p e c t a b l e b o a t , s h o u l d a s k m e

o n t h e L o r - r d ' s D a y t o j o i n i n a g a m e o f w h i s t ! " T h e

t h r e e y o u n g m e n c o w e r e d b e f o r e t h e r e b u k e , b u t t h e m i n -

i s t e r i a l f i g u r e a d d e d , " W h i s t , s i r ? - n o ! B u t I d o n ' t

m i n d j o i n i n g i n a l i t t l e p o k e r . " Th e r e w a s a s h o u t , a n d

t h e " p u r i t a n i c a l "m a n , w h o t u r n e d o u t t o b e a g r a n g e r

o f N e w Z e a l a n d, s e e m e d t o k e e p h i s p i l e o f m o n e y a t a

g o o d h e i g h t . My i m p r e s s i o n w a s t h a t t h e s t a g e h a d l o s t

a n a d m i r a b l e a c t o r i n t h a t g r a n g e r .

T h e p a t r o n s a i n t o f t h e g o o d t r av e l l e r s h o u l d b e t h e

g o d Kr i s h n a , w h o s o m u l t i p l i e d h i m s e l f t h a t e v e r y s h e p -

h e r d e s s b e l i e v e d s h e h a d h i m f o r h e r p a r t n e r i n t h e d a n c e .

I t i s i m p o r t a n t t h a t e v e r y t r a v e l l e r l i k e l y t o b e c i t e d s h a l l

f i n d t h e m o s t b e a u t i f u l l a d y h e e v e r s a w i n B o s t o n , i n N e w

Y o r k , i n R i c h m o n d , a n d i n e a c h o f t h e w e s t e r n c i t i e s . I t

i s e s p e c i a l l y i m p o r t a n t t h a t a v o y a g e r r o u n d t h e w o r l d

s h a l l f i n d e a c h h a r b o u r h e v i s i t s t h e m o s t b e a u t i f u l i n t h e

w o r l d . A n d a f t e r a l l , i s n o t t h e m o s t b e a u t i f u l p l a c e

a l w a y s t h a t y o u a r e i n ? T h e o t h e r s a r e t o o d i s t a n t t o b e

l o v e l y . T h e G o l d e n G a t e b e i n g t h r e e w e e k s d i s t a n t , I h a d

n o h e s i t a t i o n i n d e c l a r i n g t h e a p p r o a c h t o N e w Z e a l a n d

t h e f i n e s t I e v e r s a w , w h i l e a s c o r e o f v o i c e s w a r n e d m e

n o t t o c o m m i t m y s e l f t i l l I h a d e n t e r e d S y d n e y h a r b o u r .

H o w e v e r , e v e r s i n c e I l e f t L o n d o n , I h a d f e l t a g r o w -

i n g c o n s c i o u s n e s s t h a t m y a d m i r a t i o n f o r t h e " g r a n d e u r s

o f n a t u r e " h a d b e c o m e m o r e s l i g h t t h a n f o r m e r l y . I t w a s ,

a s I a f t e r w a r d s r e a l i z e d , a r e s u l t o f m y g o i n g d e e p e r a n d

d e e p e r i n t o t h e c o r o l l a r i e s o f D a r w i n ' s d i s c o v e r y . Day by

d a y a s I s w u n g i n m y h a m m o c k o n t h e A u s t r a l i a , s e e i n g

a r o u n d m e t h e p l a y o f h u m a n l i f e , t h e e x p r e s s i o n s a n d

i n t e r c h a n g e s o f a f f e c t i o n a n d k i n d l i n e s s , t h e c o n t r a s t o f



A DAY IN NEW ZEALAND 65

t h e s e w i t h t h e t e r r i b l e w a t e r - s p o u t s f o r m i n g a n d r e - f o r m -

i n g h e r e a n d t h e r e , - o n c e d a n g e r o u s l y n e a r o u r s h i p ,

w h i c h w o u l d h a v e f o u n d e r e d u n d e r i t s t o u c h , -n d t h e

c r u e l m o n s t e r s o f t h e d e e p p u r s u i n g t h e i r p r e y , o u r o w n

m o n s t e r s h i p d e s t r o y i n g f l e e t s o f t h e p e a r l y n a u t i l u s , a n d

m a n y t h i n g s p r e s s e d i n o n m y l o n g i n t e r v a l o f l e i s u r e t h e

r e c o g n i t i o n t h a t N a t u r e i s f u n d a m e n t a l l y p r e d a t o r y .

M y r e a l i n t e r e s t w a s i n m a n . I c o u l d o n l y p a s s a d a y

i n N e w Z e a l a n d , a n d i t w a s d e v o t e d t o s e e i n g a s m u c h o f

t h e N e w Z e a l a n d e r s a s p o s s i b l e . I h a d a n E n g l i s h - s p e a k -

i n g n a t i v e t o g u i d e m e a b o u t , a n d m a d e m y s e l f w e l c o m e

i n t h e i r h o m e s b y l i t t l e g i f t s t o t h e c h i l d r e n a n d p u r -

c h a s e s f r o m a n y w h o h a d t h i n g s t o s e l l . T h e y i m p r e s s e d

m e p l e a s a n t l y , a n d I w a s i n c l i n e d t o t h i n k w e l l o f t h e i r

E n g l i s h r u l e r s o n s e e i n g t h e h a p p y w e l l - f e d l o o k o f t h e s e

humble people. They had pretty costumes also -t h e

w o m e n , t h a t i s , f o r t h e s e a r e t h e l a s t i n a l l c o l o n i e s t o

a f f e c t t h e g a r b o f t h e w h i t e r a c e . M o s t o f t h e m w o r e a

s o r t o f " j e r s e y " o f s o m e b r i g h t c o l o u r , s o m e t i m e s n e a r l y

d i a p h a n o u s , a n d t h e y w e r e s h a p e l y e n o u g h f o r i t t o b e

becoming . In my c onversations with them through my

g u i d e I f o u n d t h e m c a n d i d a n d w i t t y .

O n r e t u r n i n g t o o u r s h i p t h e p a s s e n g e r s t o l d m e o f

v a r i o u s c r a g s a n d w a t e r f a l l s a n d d i s t a n t p r o s p e c t s t h e y

h a d m a n a g e d t o s e e b y d r i v e s , b u t I f e l t s a t i s f i e d w i t h

t h e g l i m p s e s I h a d s e c u r e d o f a v a r i e t y o f h u m a n i t y . I

l e f t N e w Z e a l a n d w i t h r e l u c t a n c e , a n d w i t h h o p e i n m y

h e a r t t h a t I m i g h t s o m e d a y r e t u r n . F o r i n a c e r t a i n

p a r t o f t h e i s l a n d a n i n f l u e n t i a l f a m i l y b e l o n g i n g t o m y

L o n d o n c h a p e l h a d s e t t l e d , a n d i n l a y i n g o u t a v i l l a g e

t h e y h a d a f t e r a s h a r p c o n t r o v e r s y s u c c e e d e d i n n a m i n g

t h e s t r e e t s a f t e r t h e g r e a t s c i e n t i f i c h e r e t i c s - D a r w i n ,

H u x l e y , T y n d a l l s t r e e t s , e t c . , a n d t h e y h a d o f t e n d e -



66 MY PILGRIMAGEm a n d e d t h a t I s h o u l d c o m e o v e r a n d l e c t u r e i n t h a t i d e a l

v i l l a g e .

B u t i n t h e c o u r s e o f t i m e w h a t w i l l t h e s e n a m e s s i g n i f y

t o t h e p e o p l e o f t h a t r e g i o n ? E v e n w h i l e t h o s e m e n l i v e d

t h e r e w e r e c o m p a r a t i v e l y f e w t o c o m p r e h e n d t h e i r p r e c i s e

a d d i t i o n t o k n o w l e d g e , a n d i t w a s i m p o s s i b l e t h a t t h e y

t h e m s e l v e s c o u l d p e r c e i v e t h e l o g i c a l r e s u l t s o f t h e i r o w n

g e n e r a l i z a t i o n s . E v e r y i n d i v i d u a l l i g h t m u s t s h i n e a t l a s t

( i f a t a l l ) i n t h e s u m o f t h e a v e r a g e m i n d ; t h e t h i n k e r ' s

u n d e r g r a d u a t e o r c a s u a l o r s u p e r a n n u a t e d w o r d s a r e c o n -

f u s e d w i t h h i s r e a l c o n t r i b u t i o n t o s c i e n c e ; t h e e m a n c i -

p a t o r o f t h o u g h t i n h i s o w n t i m e i s l i a b l e t o b e c o m e i t s

o p p r e s s o r i n t h e f a r t h e r t i m e . I h a d p l e a s u r e i n t e l l i n g

Dr. Tyndall and Huxley that they had named streets inNew Zealan d . I remem ber that Carlyle, though he de-

c l i n e d a t i t l e o f f e r e d b y Qu e e n V i c t o r i a , w a s gr a t i f i e d w h e n

a p r e t t y p l a c e a t C h e l s e a w a s n a m e d " C a r l y l e S q u a r e . "

T h e c o m p a n y o n o u r s h i p c o n s i s t e d m a i n l y o f w e l l - t o -

d o a n d f a i r l y e d u c a t e d p e o p l e , m o s t o f t h e m r a t h e r y o u n g .

T h e y s h o w e d e n t h u s i a s m f o r n a t u r a l s c e n e r y , a n d t h o s e w h o

r e s i d e d i n A u s t r a l i a s u p p l i e d m e w i t h a d v i c e w h e r e t o g o

i n t h a t c o u n t r y . " S u c h a v i e w ! S u c h s u p e r b p r e c i p i c e s ! "

" Are there an y aborigines ? " " Oh no, they h ave long

disappeared." But they have left behind them cur ious

f o l k - l o r e , p r o v e r b s , l e g e n d s a b o u t a l l t h o s e h i l l s a n d p r e -

c i p i c e s , a n d m y f e l l o w t r a v e l l e r s a l s o a r e s e e i n g t h e i r

a d m i r a b l e s c e n e s , n o t a s t h e y r e a l l y a r e , b u t a s t r a n s -

f i g u r e d o r d e c o r a t e d b y t h e i r f a i t h o r b y t h e i r f a v o u r i t e

p o e t s .

On m y way to Sydn ey I fell in with Mr . Young, a

nephew of James Bryce, M . P . , e n g a g e d i n t h e p e a r l b u s i -

n e s s ; and his charming tales about the divers and the

p e a r l o y s t e r s s o i l l u m i n a t e d t h e o c e a n ' s d e p t h s t h a t t h e r e



A FLOATING UTOPIA 67

a p p e a r e d a n e w m y t h o l o g y e v e n d o w n t h e r e. T h e P e r s i a n

I s l e o f A v a l l i n k e d i t s e l f w i t h o u r E n g l i s h A v a l o n , t h e

A r t h u r i a n p a r a d i s e . T w o m o n t h s b e f o r e a p o o r f i s h e r m a n

had found a pearl which brought him four thousand

pounds : long ago Browning's Para celsus had seen and

n a m e d t h e t w o p o i n t s i n t h e a d v e n t u r e o f t h a t d i v e r :

O n e , w h e n a b e g g a r , h e p r e p a r e s t o p l u n g e ;

O n e , w h e n a p r i n c e , h e r i s e s w i t h h i s p e a r l .

A n d w h o o f u s t r a i n e d i n t h e S o l o m o n i c s i m i l i t u d e o f

w i s d o m , i n t h e p a r a b l e o f t h e l o s t p e a r l , i n v i s i o n s o f

t h e C e l e s t i a l C i t y w h o s e e v e r y g a t e i s o n e p e a r l , c o u l d

e v e r s e e a p e a r l a s a m e r e b i t o f e n c i s t e d d u s t d i s e a s i n g

a n o y s t e r ?

F l a s h ! a g r e a t l i g h t b l a z e s o v e r o u r s h i p ; i t i s n o t

St. E l m o ' s f i r e , b u t t h e w o n d r o u s s e a r c h l i g h t a t S y d n e y

s w e e p i n g o u r s e a a t m i d n i g h t l i k e a n a l l - s e e i n g e y e . I t

w a s t h e l a s t e v e n i n g o f o u r v o y a g e t o g e t h e r , w h i c h f o r

a full lunar month we had managed to make merry and

e v e n i d e a l . M u c h i s s a i d a b o u t c i v i l i z a t i o n , b u t r e a l l y

t h e r e i s n o s u c h t h i n g e x c e p t i n s m a l l o a s e s h e r e a n d

t h e r e i n t h e g r e a t s w a r m i n g n a t i o n s . B u t I f e e l b o l d

e n o u g h t o s a y t h a t t h e A u s t r a l i a o n t h a t o c c a s i o n w a s

a l i t t l e f l o a t i n g e x a m p l e o f c i v i l i z a t i o n ; and it was made

s o c h i e f l y b y t h e s o v e r e i g n t y o f t h e l a d i e s . N e a r l y a l l o f

these were young mar ried ladies with their husbands

a l o n g , s o m e o n t h e i r h o n e y m o o n v o y a g e ; b u t t h e r e b e i n g

o n b o a r d m o r e g e n t l e m e n t h a n l a d i e s b y a t h i r d , t h e s e

l a d i e s s h o w e d t h e m s e l v e s g r a c i o u s a n d a g r e e a b l e t o t h e

c o m p a n i o n l e s s w i t h t h a t c h a r m i n g f r e e d o m o f w h i c h o n l y

i n n o c e n c e a n d r e f i n e m e n t a r e c a p a b l e . A s h a d e o f s a d n e s s

t h e r e f o r e c o m e s o v e r s o m e o f u s , e v e n a s w e g a z e o n t h e

s u b l i m i t i e s o f S y d n e y H a r b o u r a t d a w n : a b e a u t i f u l a n d



68 MY PILGRIMAGEunique thing had budded off the Golden Gate an d flow-

e r e d t h r o u g h i t s m o n t h ; i t s p e t a l s w e r e n o w t o b e s c a t t e r e d

t h r o u g h t h e p r o s a i c s t r e e t s o f c i t i e s , n e v e r a g a i n t o b e

u n i t e d . Everything passes .

That poor Australia n who under pr essure of poverty

s o l d h i s l i t t l e f i e l d f o r a p i t t a n c e a n d b e c a m e i n s a n e o n

l e a r n i n g t h a t t h e s t e r i l e f i e l d w a s a g o l d m i n e , c a n b e

sympathized with by the pilgrim who discovers too late

t h a t h e h a s p a s s e d s o m e r i c h t r e a s u r e a n d s e e n o n l y t h e

e a r t h e n v e s s e l c o n t a i n i n g i t . Could I only ha ve known

even a little of the wonderful story of New Zealan d

told by Dr . Richard Garn ett (1898) I should not have

returned to England without really seeing more of that

c o l o n y . I ha d long kn own Dr . G a r n e t t , a s f a r a s i t w a s

p e r m i s s i b l e t o e n c r o a c h o n t h a t s c h o l a r w h o l o n g s a t i n

the British Museum as p reeminently the interpreter for

l i t e r a r y i n q u i r e r s , a l w a y s t h e m o s t m o d e s t o f t h e c h i e f -

t a i n s o f c u l t u r e , a n d t h e m o s t g r a c i o u s . But as much as

I a p p r e c i a t e d h i s v a r i e d k n o w l e d g e , i t w a s w i t h s u r p r i s e

t h a t I r e a d h i s c o n t r i b u t i o n t o F i s h e r U n w i n ' s s e r i e s o f t h e

B u i l d e r s o f G r e a t e r B r i t a i n , 11 Edward Gibbon Wakef ield,

the Coloniza tion of South Australia and New Zealan d . "

I d o n o t b e l i e v e t h a t t h e r e i s a n y o t h e r v o l u m e o f f o u r

h u n d r e d p a g e s w h i c h c o n t a i n s s o m u c h w e l l - d i g e s t e d k n o w -

l e d g e o f t h e m o t i v e s a n d f o r c e s t h a t g o t o t h e f o u n d i n g

of an English colony, and such clear and com prehensive

i n s i g h t i n t o t h e c o n d i t i o n s - p h y s i c a l , p o l i t i c a l , a n d r e l i -

g i o u s , w h i c h m o d i f y a n d c o m p l i c a t e s u c h i d e a l s a n d a i m s

a s t h o s e o f W a k e f i e l d . N o r d o e s a n y r o m a n c e o f o u r t i m e

s u r p a s s i n i n t e r e s t t h e s t o r y t o l d w i t h o u t e m b e l l i s h m e n t ,

of the admirable ma n Wakefield, who alone of the many

E n gl i s h i d e a l i s t s g a v e h i s e n t i r e l i f e t o t h e p r a c t i ca l r e a l i -

z a t i o n o n e a r t h o f t h e U t o p i a h e h a d w r i t t e n o n p a p e r .



" MOTHERLESS " MAORIS 6 9

I n 1 8 8 2 a c o m p a n y o f M a o r i s c a m e t o L o n d o n f o r t h e

p u r p o s e o f s e e i n g Q u e e n V i c t o r i a a n d l a y i n g b e f o r e h e r

s y m p a t h e t i c h e a r t t h e i r g r i e v a n c e s . My wife and I met

t h e s e s t i l l n o m i n a l c h i e f t a i n s i n L o n d o n a t t h e h o u s e o fMr. an d Mrs . ( O t t i l i a B l i n d ) H a n c o c k , a l w a y s a n x i o u s

t o c o m f o r t t h e d i s t r e s s e d . A n d t h e s e M a o r i s w e r e i n d e e p

d i s t r e s s , n o t s o m u c h b e c a u s e o f t h e t r o u b l e s t h a t h a d

b r o u g h t t h e m a l l t h e w a y f r o m N e w Z e a l a n d , b u t b e c a u s e

t h e y w e r e n o t p e r m i t t e d t o m e e t o r s e e t h e i r Q u e e n . On e

o f t h e m w h o s p o k e E n g l i s h , s p e a k i n g f o r t h e r e s t , m o v e d

the large compan y of ladies and gentlemen alm ost to

t e a r s a s h e t o l d o f t h e g r i e f w i t h w h i c h t h e y h a d j o u r -

n e y e d s o f a r o n l y t o f i n d t h e m s e l v e s m o t h e r l e s s . T h e y d i d

n o t , s o f a r a s I c a n r e m e m b e r , t e l l u s w h a t t h e i r g r i e v -

a n c e s w e r e a t h o m e , b u t i n r e p l y t o o u r q u e s t i o n s s p o k e

o f t h e c h e r i s h e d d r e a m o f a l l t h e i r r a c e t h a t t h e y h a d i n

England a suprem e and benevolent Mother who could

a n d w o u l d e n d a l l t h e t r o u b l e s o f h e r r e m o t e s t c h i l d r e n i f

she knew of them . S i n c e r e a d i n g t h e w o r k o f m y o l d

f r i e n d D r . G a r n e t t , I h a v e w r i t t e n t o a s k h i m a b o u t t h i s

N e w Z e a l a n d d e p u t a t i o n , a n d h e s a y s i n a p r i v a t e n o t e

" T h e y b a d s e v e r a l i n t e r v i e w s w i t h t h e c o l o n i a l s e c r e -

t a r y , L o r d K i m b e r l e y , b u t h e p r e v e n t e d t h e i r s e e i n g t h e

Queen, who would, I think, ha ve insisted upon their

being admitted to her presence if she had known the

c i r c u m s t a n c e s . "



CHAPTER IV

The Melbourne Cup-Joss House-Sects in Victoria-Governor of

Victoria -Bishop of Melbourne- Rev . C h a r l e s S t r o n g - A u s t r a l i a n

i n s a n i t y - Ballarat gold mines - Hon . P e t e r L a l o r - Hon . A . I n g l i s

C l a r k -Hobart - C a m p b e l l i t e s - N a t u r e ' s o d d i t i e s - R e l i c s o f t r a n s -

p o r t a t i o n t i m e s -E x t i n c t i o n o f T a s m a n i a n s -M y o r d e a l i n S y d n e y-I m p a l e d w i t h B i s h o p M o o r h o u s e a n d R e v . C h a r l e s S t r o n g - F u s i o n o f

F r e e t h o u g h t a n d S p i r i t u a l i s m -The Botan y Bay m yth -J u s t i c e W i n -

d e y e r .

IT i s o d d t h a t M e l b o u r n e , r i g i d l y P r e s b y t e r i a n , s h o u l d

h a v e f o r i t s P a n - A u s t r a l i a n s y n o d a h o r s e - r a c e . Mel-

b o u r n e h a s , h o w e v e r , m a d e i t s r a c i n g w e e k a s o c i a l c o n -

g r e s s o f t h e c o l o n i e s . T h e b e t t i n g i s u n i v e r s a l . Sweep-

s t a k e s w e r e a r r a n g e d i n t h e s c h o o l s ( b y t h e t e a c h e r s ) , a n d

Cup Day is a holiday . I t w a s s t a t e d t h a t a f t e r t h e C u p

rac e a ca rriage horse was observed to throw down a

m o u t h f u l o f h a y g i v e n h i m , w h i c h h i s m a t e p o u n c e d o n .

E a r l y i n t h e m o r n i n g I w a l k e d o v e r t h e c o u r s e , s o t o

s a y . B y r o n M o o r e , s e c r e t a r y o f t h e R a c i n g C l u b , g u i d e d

m e , a n d I s a w t h e a r t i s t i c a r r a n g e m e n t s f o r t h i s g r e a t

event. The ap artm ents for the governor and his com-

p a n y , t h e c o m m i t t e e r o o m s , t h e m e d i c a l r o o m s , t h e l a d i e s '

r o o m s , - a l l w e r e e l a b o r a t e l y e l e g a n t . Th e r e w a s f i n e f l o r a l

d e c o r a t i o n e v e r y w h e r e ; c o s m e t i c s i n t h e l a d i e s ' r o o m , a n d

n e e d l e s t h r e a d e d w i t h e v e r y c o l o u r , r e a d y f o r u s e .

I n t h e e l e m e n t o f g r o t e s q u e r i e t h e E n g l i s h D e r b y h a s

l a r g e a d v a n t a g e s o v e r t h e C u p , w h e r e r e s p e c t a b i l i t y w a s

car ried to an extreme ; there was hardly a side-show,

n o t h i n g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f t h e c o u n t r y , n o a b o r i g i n e s , n o

boomerangs . I t a l l i m p r e s s e d m e a s t o o m u c h a P r e s b y t e -



JOSS HOUSE IN MELBOURNE 7 1

r i a n V a n i t y F a i r ; n o o n e c o u l d f a i l t o b e s t r u c k b y t h e

m u l t i t u d e o f b e a u t i f u l l a d i e s a n d f i n e l o o k i n g m e n , b u t

t h e y a p p e a r e d s o s e r i o u s ! I t w a s p l e a s a n t t o s e e s o m a n y

p e o p l e w i t h o u t a n y t i p s i n e s s , b u t t h e r e m i g h t h a v e b e e n

some fun .

T h e C h i n e s e J o s s H o u s e i n M e l b o u r n e p r e s e n t e d m o r e

p r i m i t i v e p e c u l i a r i t i e s t h a n I d i s c o v e r e d i n t h e S a n F r a n -

c i s c o i n s t i t u t i o n . T h e r e w a s a m o r t u a r y w h e r e t h e C h i n e s e

w h o c a n a f f o r d i t ca n k e e p l i t t l e f o u r - i n c h t o m b s t o n e s o f

t h e m s e l v e s w h i l e t h e y a r e a l i v e ; a t d e a t h t h e m a n ' s i n -

s c r i b e d s t o n e i s s e t u p o n a c o n s e c r a t e d s h e l f . There

w e r e o v e r t w e l v e t h o u s a n d C h i n e s e i n V i c t o r i a ( 1 8 8 3 ) ,

a n d t h e i r c h a p e l s u g g e s t e d w e a l t h . I n t h e m a i n t e m p l e

o n e a p p r o a c h e s t h e a l t a r p a s t t h e f e r o c i o u s b u t i m p o s s i -

b l e l i o n s a n d s e e s s i x p i n k c a n d l e s a r r a n g e d l i k e t h o s e o n

C h r i s t i a n a l t a r s ; a t t h e e n d o f e a c h r o w o f c a n d l e s i s a

f o l i a t e d p i l l a r a b o u t t w o f e e t h i g h , s e t i n a p o t , a r o u n d

w h i c h c o i l s a d r a g o n w h o s e h e a d i s b e a r d e d a n d h o r n e d .

H e g u a r d s a l i t t l e t r e e g r o w i n g o u t o f a n o t h e r p o t . Near

b y i s a b e l l a n d d r u m , t h e o b j e c t o f w h i c h i s t o d r i v e

a w a y e v i l d e m o n s , - f o r i t i s u n i v e r s a l d e m o n o l o g y t h a t

demons cannot stand order ; when the air is made mu-

s i c a l o r r h y t h m i c t h e y m u s t f l y t o a w i l d e r a t m o s p h e r e .

O v e r t h e a l t a r i s a w e l l - p a i n t e d p i c t u r e o f a C h i n e s e

t r i a d -Kwan-yin , Kawn- Tom, Ti-tom . The last two of

t h e s e n a m e s I h a d t o t a k e p h o n e t i c a l l y f r o m m y C h i n a -

m a n , a n d n o w w r i t e t h e m w i t h m i s g i v i n g s . About Kwan -

y i n m u c h m i g h t b e w r i t t e n , f o r s h e i s a c l a s s i c s a i n t , o r

ma y even be c alled the Madonna of the Chinese Budd-

h i s t s . S h e i s t h e w o m a n w h o r e f u s e d t o e n t e r p a r a d i s e

s o l o n g a s a n y h u m a n b e i n g i s e x c l u d e d . " N e v e r w i l l I

r e c e i v e i n d i v i d u a l s a l v a t i o n , " s h e s a i d , a n d s t i l l r e m a i n s

o u t s i d e t h e g a t e s o f h e a v e n .



72 MY PILGRIMAGEThe c e n s u s o f 1881 g a v e V i c t o r i a a p o p u l a t i o n o f

8 6 2 , 2 4 6 a n d r e g i s t e r e d 1 4 4 d e n o m i n a t i o n a l n a m e s . Some

o f t h e s e n a m e s i n t h e o f f i c i a l Y e a r - b o o k a r e n o v e l God-

f e a r i n g , " " S a v e d S i n n e r s , " " S i l e n t A d m i r e r , " " F r e e -

Trade," "Nature," and three men gave their na me as

" L . S . D . " T o t h e " c h u r c h o f E l i S a n d s " f i v e b e l o n g e d

- all women . This I supp ose to be the eloquen t New

York Methodist (1830-1868) . One woman records her

f a i t h a s a " Walkerite," Mr . W a l k e r b e i n g a s e c u l a r i s t

l e c t u r e r i n M e l b o u r n e . A n d t h e r e w a s o n e " B o r r o w i t e . "

N u m e r o u s e n t r i e s i n d i c a t e t h e f e r m e n t a t i o n i n A u s t r a l i a ,

- " B e l i e v e r s i n p a r t s o f t h e B i b l e , " " L i b e r t y o f C o n -

s c i e n c e , " " L i b e r a l V i e w s , " " J u s t i c e a n d L i b e r t y , " "F r e e

R e l i g i o n , " " N a t u r a l R e l i g i o n , " " R a t i o n a l C h r i s t i a n s , "

" R e a s o n i s t s , " " E c l e c t i c , " " N e u t r a l , " " H u m a n i t a r i a n . "

There were 53 "Agnostics," 3 7 "Atheists," 14 " Infi-

d e l s , " w h i l e 7 2 7 7 r e g i s t e r e d t h e m s e l v e s a s w i t h o u t c r e e d

o r s e c t . T h e n u m b e r o f t h o s e w h o r e j e c t e d e v e r y f o r m

o f C h r i s t i a n i t y w a s 2 0 , 0 0 0 .

T h e U n i t a r i a n s n u m b e r e d a b o u t o n e t h o u s a n d . I n 1 8 5 1 ,

w h e n r e g i s t r a t i o n o f o p i n i o n s w a s c o m p u l s o r y , s e v e n t e e n

h u n d r e d c o n f e s s e d t h e U n i t a r i a n f a i t h . I n t h a t y e a r t h e

Victorian government voted to divide fifty thousand

p o u n d s a m o n g a l l t h e c h u r c h e s i n p r o p o r t i o n t o t h e i r

m e m b e r s ( g i v i n g t h e f i v e t a l e n t s t o h i m w h o h a d f i v e a n d

t h e t w o t o h i m w h o h a d t w o ) , a n d t h e s u b s i d y w a s c o n t i n -

u e d m a n y y e a r s . U n d e r t h a t a r r a n g e m e n t t h e U n i t a r i a n s

r e c e i v e d a g o o d p i e c e o f p r o p e r t y . I t n o w h a d f o r i t s

minister Mrs . Webster, who began pr eachin g there as

Miss Turner . S h e i s a s i s t e r o f H e n r y G . T u r n e r o f t h e

C o m m e r c i a l B a n k o f A u s t r a l i a , h i m s e l f a l i t e r a r y m a n

an d editor of the "Melbourne Review ." Mrs . Webster

i s a r a t i o n a l i s t i c U n i t a r i a n , a n d h e r d i s c o u r s e s a r e v e r y



AUSTRALIAN LOYALTY 73

i m p r e s s i v e . I had t h e p l e a s u r e o f p r e a c h i n g t o h e r

s o c i e t y , w h i c h c o n s i s t s o f e d u c a t e d a n d i n f l u e n t i a l f a m -

i l i e s .

T h e A u s t r a l i a n s h a d t h e i n f i r m i t y o f m o s t c o l o n i s t s

o f i m i t a t i n g t h e n o m e n c l a t u r e o f t h e m o t h e r - c o u n t r y .

O n e f i n d s p o o r l i t t l e v i l l a g e s n a m e d B r i g h t o n , C h i s w i c k ,

e t c . , a n d t h e i m i t a t i o n e x t e n d s t o t h i n g s g a s t r o n o m i c . At

t h e m a y o r ' s b a n q u e t i n M e l b o u r n e , h e l d o n t h e s a m e d a y

as that of the Lord Mayor in London, nothing could

h a v e b e e n r i c h e r t h a n t h e h a l l a n d i t s d e c o r a t i o n s , -t h e f l a g s o f m a n y n a t i o n s ; b u t t h e i m i t a t i v e n e s s o f t h e

a f f a i r w a s a m u s i n g . There was turtle soup, the only

o c c a s i o n o n w h i c h I s a w i t i n A u s t r a l i a . T u r t l e a b o u n d s

i n Q u e e n s l a n d , b u t t h e n e i g h b o u r i n g c o l o n i e s c a r e l i t t l e

f o r i t , a n d n o t a t a l l f o r t h e d e l i c i o u s k a n g a r o o - t a i l s o u p ,

n o r f o r t h e beche de mer, b u t s t i c k t o e v e r y t h i n g E n g l i s h .

T h e A u s t r a l i a n s g o b e y o n d t h e E n g l i s h i n l o y a l t y . Not

o n l y Q u e e n V i c t o r i a ' s b i r t h d a y b u t t h a t o f t h e P r i n c e o f

Wales (now Edward VII) was a general holiday . I w a s

t o l d t h a t t h e r e w e r e m o r e h o l i d a y s i n A u s t r a l i a t h a n i n

a n y o t h e r c o u n t r y .

The Marquis of Norma nby, then (1883) governor of

V i c t o r i a , p o l i t e l y e n t e r t a i n e d m e i n h i s p a l a c e a n d g a v e

m e m u c h i n f o r m a t i o n c o n c e r n i n g t h e c o n d i t i o n o f A u s -

t r a l i a . At Lord Norma nby's dra wing-room, which wa s

b r i l l i a n t , I m e t m y L o n d o n f r i e n d s , E u s t a c e S m i t h , M . P . ,

a n d h i s w i f e a n d d a u g h t e r , a n d a f t e r w a r d s t r a v e l l e d w i t h

t h e m t o v a r i o u s p l a c e s . Lord an d Lady Rosebery min-

g l e d v e r y a f f a b l y w i t h t h e g a y c o m p a n y . T h e l a d i e s a t

t h e d r a w i n g - r o o m w e r e a l l i n f u l l c o u r t c o s t u m e .

T h r o u g h o u t A u s t r a l i a g e n t l e m e n o f t e n w e a r e v e n i n g -

d r e s s o n i n f o r m a l o c c a s i o n s w h e n i t w o u l d b e o m i t t e d i n

London, but ladies even in large evening compa nies



7 4 MY PILGRIMAGEm o s t l y w e a r t h e c o n v e n i e n t a n d h i g h - n e c k e d b l a c k s i l k .

I h a v e r e m a r k e d i n v a r i o u s p a r t s o f t h e w o r l d t h a t ' i n

e v e r y c o u n t r y t h e s e x t h a t e x c e e d s t h e o t h e r i n n u m b e r s

a r r a y s i t s e l f f i n e l y , t h e m i n o r i t y s e x d r e s s i n g p l a i n l y . In

A u s t r a l i a t h e w o m e n , b e i n g r e l a t i v e l y f e w , a r e s u r e o f h u s -

b a n d s w i t h o u t r e s o r t i n g t o d e c o r a t i o n .

A g r e a t d e a l w a s s a i d i n t h e r e l i g i o u s p r e s s a b o u t " l a r -

r i k i n s ," t h a t i s , i n s o l e n t r o w d i e s . The crowd appea red

t o m e d e c e n t a n d o r d e r l y , a n d I d o n o t r e c a l l h a v i n g e v e r

s e e n a d r u n k e n p e r s o n i n A u s t r a l i a . I n f a c t t h e w h o l e

p o p u l a t i o n a r e t e a - d r i n k e r s . The nearest appr oach to

L ° l a r r i k i n i s m " I o b s e r v e d w a s i n t h e p i o u s p r e s s i t s e l f .

M y ' r e p u t a t i o n f o r r a t i o n a l i s m h a d b e e n m a d e f o r m e

b y a l e c t u r e a g e n t s e l e c t e d b y m y f r i e n d s M r . J e f f r a y

an d Mr . T u r n e r . S o m e h a n d l i n g o f r e l i g i o u s t h e m e s w a s

e x p e c t e d o f m e , b u t m y o p e n i n g l e c t u r e ( o n D a r w i n ) m u s t

h a v e r e v e a l e d t o t h e k e e n - e a r e d s e c t a r i a n s h e r e s i e s o f

w h i c h I w a s n o t y e t c o n s c i o u s . I a f t e r w a r d s r e a l i z e d t h a t

d u r i n g t h e m o n t h s e l a p s e d s i n c e m y l a s t s e r m o n i n L o n -

don I bad been takin g stock of my beliefs, and that

e s p e c i a l l y d u r i n g t h o s e f o u r w e e k s o n t h e P a c i f i c m y

Theism had been analyzed severely . What I n ow de-

s c r i b e a s t h e " c o l l e c t i v i s t d e i t y " - t h a t i s , a m i n d i n

n a t u r e c r e a t i v e a n d c o n t r o l l i n g t h e e v o l u t i o n a r y f o r c e s -

w a s r e j e c t e d . I f e l t m y s e l f o n e w i t h t h o s e w h o e i g h t e e n

c e n t u r i e s b e f o r e m e h a d t u r n e d f r o m w o r s h i p o f a c r u e l

c o s m i c d e i t y t o t h e s u f f e r i n g g o d - , , forsaken" by the

P o w e r h e h a d t r u s t e d . T h e s e i d e a s h a d n o t c r ys t a l l i z e d i n

m y m i n d s u f f i c i e n t l y f o r m e t o f o r m u l a t e t h e m , b u t t h e y

h a d a f f e c t e d m y m o di f i c a t i o n s o n t h e A u s t r a l i a o f a L o n d o n

l e c t u r e o n D a r w i n . I n g i v i n g t h i s f i r s t i n A u s t r a l i a I p u t

m y w o r s t f o o t f o r e m o s t . M e l b o u r n e a l s o p u t i t s w o r s t

f o o t f o r e m o s t b y g i v i n g m e t h e m o s t u n s c i e n t i f i c h a l l m a n

t



CHEERFUL MARTYRS 7 5

e v e r s p o k e i n . E v e r y w o r d I u t t e r e d r e t u r n e d i n s t a r -

t l i n g e c h o e s , a n d a t h i r d o f t h e f i n e a u d i e n c e c o u l d n o t

h e a r . F o r t h e n e x t l e c t u r e I h a d t h e d e s k m o v e d t o a

s i d e o f t h e h a l l , a n d w a s f a i r l y h e a r d . T h e f i r s t l e c t u r e ,

h o w e v e r , w e l l r e p o r t e d i n t h e a d m i r a b l e " A r g u s , " e l i c i t e d

p u b l i c l e t t e r s v e h e m e n t l y v i n d i ca t i n g t h e f u n c t i o n s o f p a i n

i n n a t u r e . T h e a b l e s t o f t h e s e I h a d t o a n s w e r , s i m p l y

m a i n t a i n i n g t h a t n o a d v a n t a g e s c o u l d j u s t i f y O m n i p o t e n t

L o v e i n s e l e c t i n g p a i n a n d w h o l e s a l e t o r t u r e o f s e n s i t i v e

c r e a t u r e s a s t h e m e t h o d o f E v o l u t i o n . My argument was

n o t a n s w e r e d , b u t I w a s a n g r i l y a b u s e d .

M y c a s e , h o w e v e r , w a s o f s l i g h t i m p o r t a n c e c o m p a r e d

with that of Bishop Moorhouse a nd the Rev. C h a r l e s

Strong . T h e B i s h o p o f M e l b o u r n e a n d t h e m i n i s t e r o f

t h e S c o t s c h u r c h w e r e a d m i t t e d l y t h e a b l e s t m e n i n t h e

A u s t r a l i a n p u l p i t . They were " b r oa d " i n t h e i r v i e w s ,

a n d h a d m a n a g e d t o g e t g i b b e t e d t o g e t h e r a s " p a l s " p r o -

p a g a t i n g i n f i d e l i t y i n t h e s o u t h w e s t e r n h e m i s p h e r e . They

w e r e b o t h i m p r u d e n t e n o u g h t o i n v i t e m e t o t h e i r h o u s e s ,

a n d I f o u n d t h e m c h e e r f u l m a r t y r s , q u i t e a b l e t o a p p r e -

c i a t e t h e a m u s i n g f e a t u r e s o f t h e c o m b i n a t i o n o f S c o t c h

Presbyterians an d English Hard- churc hmen by whom

t h e y w e r e p e l t e d . S t r o n g ' s o f f e n c e s w e r e m a n i f o l d . Hen e v e r p r e a c h e d d o g m a s ; h e i n t r o d u c e d E m e r s o n ' s e s s a y s

i n t o a c l a s s o f y o u n g p e o p l e ; a n d h e i n v i t e d a r a t i o n a l i s t

- Judge Higinbotham of the Supreme Court - to lec-

t u r e i n h i s c h u r c h o n " S c i e n c e a n d R e l i g i o n ." There was

a n o t h e r o f f e n c e o f w h i c h M r . S t r o n g d i d n o t t e l l m e , a n d

w h i c h I d i s c o v e r e d b y a t t e n d i n g h i s g r a n d a n d c r o w d e d

c h u r c h : h e w a s t o o e l o q u e n t . The Nationa l Churc h of

S c o t l a n d t o w h i c h h e b e l o n g s i s u n i t e d w i t h t h e t w o o t h e r s

i n t h e V i c t o r i a P r e s b y t e r y , b u t t h a t d i d n o t p r e v e n t t h e

l a t t e r f r o m f e e l i n g s o m e e m o t i o n a t s e e i n g t h e i r c o n g r e -



76 MY PILGRIMAGEgations becoming thin an d the Scots church plethoric .

N o r d i d t h e y f a i l t o o b s e r v e t h a t n o t o r i o u s l i b e r a l t h i n k e r s

had pews in Strong's church, among them R . J . J e f f r a y ,

a m a n o f r e m a r k a b l e a b i l i t y a n d i n f l u e n c e .

The Bishop of Melbourne becam e implic ated by con -

senting that a Broad- churc hman , Rev . Mr . Brom by,

should excha nge pulpits with Strong . In answer to ac-

cusation s the bishop delivered an a ddress before the

General Assembly so full of catholicity and liberalism

t h a t i n t h e d i s c u s s i o n t h a t f o l l o w e d h i s l o r d s h i p w a s f a i r l y

b a i t e d . H e a n d h i s s i s t e r g a v e m e a n a c c o u n t o f i n c i d e n t s

s u p p r e s s e d b y t h e p a p e r s . Some of the laymen who arose

to speak were unable to do so because of their excite-

m e n t . O n e , r i s i n g t o c a l l a n o t h e r t o o r d e r , c o u l d g e t n o

f a r t h e r t h a n " I c a - c a - c a " - The bishop entrea ted the

s p e a k e r s t o b e c a l m a n d p o l i t e ; whereupon an opponent

exclaimed, " Your lordship, I call a spa de a spa de . "

" I a m g l a d t o h e a r i t , " s a i d t h e b i s h o p ; "from your tone

j u s t n o w I s h o u l d h a v e e x p e c t e d y o u t o c a l l t h e s p a d e a

s a n g u i n a r y s h o v e l . "

B i s h o p M o o r h o u s e w a s e n t i r e l y t o o f i n e a m a n t o b e h u s -

t l e d b y i g n o r a n t p e o p l e . T h e y w e r e j u s t a t h i m a g a i n w h e n

I met him . Miss Jennie Lee was having a grand success

as Jo in " B l e a k H o u s e , " a n d o f f e r e d a b e n e f i t p e r f o r m -

a n c e f o r a c h a r i t y w i t h w h i c h t h e b i s h o p w a s c o n n e c t e d .

T h e a p p e a r a n c e o f h i s n a m e a s p a t r o n o f a t h e a t r i c a l p e r -

f o r m a n c e w a s t h e s i g n a l f o r a n e v a n g e l i c a l f i r e a l l a l o n g

t h e l i n e . T h e p i o u s h o s t i l i t y t o t h e b i s h o p w a s a u g m e n t e d

b y h i s p o p u l a r i t y a m o n g t h e c u l t u r e d m e n o f t h e w o r l d ,

b u t I c o u l d s e e t h a t h e a n d h i s s i s t e r w e r e t i r e d o f t h e

p r o v i n c i a l t e m p e s t s i n t e a p o t s , a n d i t w a s a r e l i e f t o b o t h

of them when he was ma de Bishop of Manchester .

I n A u s t r a l i a I h e a r d o f s e v e r a l c a s e s o f i n s a n i t y t h a t



BALLARAT GOLD MINES 77

s t r u c k m e a s " a n t i p o d a l . " O n e w a s l i t e r a l l y s o - t h a t o f

a l u n a t i c a t S y d n e y , w h o , m a i n t a i n i n g t h a t a t t h e a n t i -

p o d e s a l l c u s t o m s o f t h e o t h e r h e m i s p h e r e s h o u l d b e r e -

v e r s e d , h e l d h i s k n i f e a n d f o r k b y t h e b l a d e a n d p r o n g s ,

a t e w i t h t h e i r h a n d l e s , w r o t e f r o m t h e b o t t o m o f a s h e e t

u p w a r d s , a n d s o o n . At the asylum near Hobart there

w a s a m a n w h o a l t e r n a t e l y f a n c i e d h i m s e l f C h r i s t a n d

Antichrist, his changes from on e to the other being

sudden .

I s a w a w o m a n a t H o b a r t w h o b e l i e v e d h e r s e l f t h e q u e e n

o f E n g l a n d . S h e w e n t a b o u t f r e e l y , a n d w a s t r e a t e d w i t h

a c e r t a i n m o c k r e s p e c t .

B r u n t o n S t e p h e n s w r o t e a s t r i k i n g p o e m o n a c a s e s a i d

to be genuine, -that of a shepherd who went mad on

h e a r i n g o f t h e d i s c o v e r y o f g o l d i n a f i e l d w h e r e h e b a d

l o n g t e n d e d h e r d s , a n d w h i c h h e h a d s o l d f o r a p i t t a n c e .

T h e A u s t r a l i a n g o l d - f i e l d s h a v e b e e n l a r g e l y p o p u l a t e d

with men who made each his pile of gold . There is a

s t o r y t h a t a t B a l l a r a t s o m e w e r e s e e n e a t i n g s a n d w i c h e s

made of bread an d bank-n otes, in sheer bravado . The

a b s e n c e o f a n y n e a r m a r k e t d e p r e c i a t e d t h e i r g o l d , a n d

t h e y s c a t t e r e d i t l i k e c h a f f . A few wome n who found

t h e i r w a y o u t a m o n g t h e t e n t s t h a t o c c u p i e d t h e s i t e o f

B a l l a r a t i n 1 8 6 0 w e r e b i d f o r a n d b o u g h t a t a u c t i o n f o r

s i x t y o r s e v e n t y p o u n d s a p i e c e .

With Eustace Smith, M . P . , I s a n k a t B a l l a r a t d o w n

a n a r r o w a p e r t u r e e i g h t h u n d r e d f e e t i n t o t h e e a r t h . Weh a d t o d r e s s f o r t h e d e s c e n t i n m u d - s p a t t e r e d g a r b , h u g e

b o o t s , a n d h o r r i b l e h a t s , i n s o m u c h t h a t w e a g r e e d t o c a l l

e a c h o t h e r " b l o k e , " a n d t o d i v i d e a n y " swag " w e c o u l d

a n n e x i n t h e m i n e . T h r o u g h t h e s l i m y s i d e s o f t h e g r a v e

w e d e s c e n d e d s h u d d e r i n g , a n d a f t e r s u n d r y b l o o d - c u r d .

l i n g c r e a k i n g s a n d s t o p p a g e s , w e r e d e p o s i t e d i n a p u d d l e .



7 8 MY PILGRIMAGEClutching c andles, we waded through white mud- puree

till we cam e upon men who, with a grunt or groan a t

e a c h s t r o k e , p i c k e d a t t h e h a r d q u a r t z . F o r n i n e h o u r s '

d a i l y t o i l i n t h i s H a d e s e a c h o b t a i n e d s e v e n s h i l l i n g s .

T h e w o r k m a n ' s e y e f l a s h e d a s h e t o l d u s , a d d i n g t h a t h e

h a d h a d a b o u t e n o u g h o f i t .

T h e n w e w e n t o v e r t h e a d j a c e n t e s t a b l i s h m e n t , w h e r e

t h e q u a r t z i s c r u s h e d a n d w a s h e d , w h e r e t h e g o l d d u s t a d -

h e r e s t o t h e c a r p e t s a n d b l a n k e t s o v e r w h i c h t h e y e l l o w

w a t e r p a s s e s , a n d s o o n t h r o u g h t h e s t a g e s b y w h i c h t h e

m i n t i s f i n a l l y r e a c h e d , a n d t h e g o l d g o e s f o r t h w i t h

s a i n t l y G e o r g e a n d h i s b r i g h t - s c a l e d d r a g o n s t a m p e d o n

i t . T h a t s e r p e n t o n t h e E n g l i s h s o v e r e i g n m u s t e a t t h e

d u s t a l l i t s d a y s .

The first Australia n digger wa s Edward H a r g r a v e s ,

w h o , h a v i n g b e e n r e d u c e d t o s e l l h i s s h e e p a s t a l l o w i n

A u s t r a l i a , m i g r a t e d t o t h e n e w l y di s c o v e r e d g o l d - f i e l d s o f

C a l i f o r n i a . H e d i d n o t d o w e l l t h e r e , b u t h e o b s e r v e d t h e

s i m i l a r i t y o f t h e a u r i f e r o u s s o i l i n C a l i f o r n i a t o s o m e b e

h a d n o t i c e d i n N e w S o u t h W a l e s , w h i t h e r h e r e t u r n e d .

The Hon . M r . M c I n t y r e o f t h e V i c t o r i a n P a r l i a m e n t t o l d

u s t h a t C a p t a i n D e v l i n m e t H a r g r a v e s i n C a l i f o r n i a a n d

a s s i s t e d h i m t o r e t u r n t o S y d n e y . O n a n o l d h o r s e , t o

obtain which he had borrowed money at a hundred per

c e n t , H a r g r a v e s t r a v e l l e d t o t h e B l u e M o u n t a i n s , t e l l i n g

e v e r y o n e h e m e t o f h i s h o p e s . A l l l a u g h e d a t h i m s a v e

one Mrs . L i s t e r , a t w h o s e i n n h e s t o p p e d a n d w h o s e n t

h e r s o n t o b e h i s g u i d e . The gold was found a nd Har-

g r a v e s b r o k e i n t o a l a u g h , s a y i n g t o y o u n g L i s t e r , 1 ° T h i s

i s a m e m o r a b l e d a y i n t h e h i s t o r y o f N e w S o u t h W a l e s .

F o r t h i s d a y ' s w o r k I s h a l l b e c r e a t e d a b a r o n e t , y o u w i l l

b e k n i g h t e d , a n d t h i s o l d h o r s e w i l l b e s t u f f e d a n d s e n t

to the British Museum!" But he was pla in Edward



PETER LALOR 79

Hargraves s t i l l (1883) i n S y d n e y , and had been re-

w a r d e d b y f i f t e e n t h o u s a n d p o u n d s f o r t h e P a c t o l u s h e

d i s c o ve r e d f o r o t h e r s .

H e w a s m o r e f o r t u n a t e t h a n t h e d i s c o v e r e r o f g o l d i n

V i c t o r i a , J a m e s E s m o n d , w h o a l s o g o t h i s t r a i n i n g i n

C a l i f o r n i a . H i s d i s c o v e r y w a s n e a r B a l l a r a t , a t a p l a c e

t h e n c a l l e d " P o v e r t y F l a t . " A f t e r g e t t i n g a f a i r f o r t u n e ,

p o o r E s m o n d l o s t i t a l l i n t r y i n g t o m a k e i t b i g g e r .

I h a d t h e p l e a s u r e o f m e e t i n g t h e H o n . P e t e r L a l o r ,

s p e a k e r o f t h e V i c t o r i a n P a r l i a m e n t . H e w a s a s t r i k i n g

f i g u r e , b u t h i s g l o r y w a s t h e s t u m p o f a n a r m l o s t w h i l e

f i g h t i n g a g a i ns t t h e V i c t o r i a n s o l d i e r y a t t h e E u r e k a m i n e .

The government (under Governor Hotham) had imposed

o n e a c h d i g g e r t h e n e c e s s i t y o f a l i c e n s e c o s t i n g t h i r t y

s h i l l i n g s a m o n t h . A m a n w a s l i a b l e t o b e s u d d e n l y a c -

c o s t e d b y a p o l i c e m a n a n d h i s l i c e n s e d e m a n d e d , a n d i f h e

d i d n o t h a p p e n t o h a v e i t a b o u t h i m w a s a t o n c e c h a i n e d

t o a l o g , t h e r e t o r e m a i n f o r t r i a l n e x t d a y . T h e d i g g e r s '

b l o o d b o i l e d o v e r a t l a s t , a n d i n t h e w a y o f o l d E n g l i s h

a g i t a t o r s t h e y t o o k t o s o l d i e r i n g . T h e y m a d e P e t e r L a l o r

c a p t a i n , r a i s e d a f l a g ,-h e S o u t h e r n C r o s s , - a n d b u i l t

a s t o c k a d e . G o v e r n m e n t b l o o d c a n b o i l t o o. A t B a l l a r a t

t h e s o l d i e r s a t t a c k e d t h e s t o c k a d e , a n d a f t e r a c o n s i d e r -

a b l e n u m b e r o f l i v e s w e r e l o s t o n b o t h s i d e s , t h e m a t t e r

w a s s e t t l e d . Th e l e a d i n g r i o t e r s w e r e t r i e d a n d a c qu i t t e d ;

t h e l i c e n s e w a s r e d u c e d t o o n e p o u n d , t h e n t o t e n s h i l l i n g s ,

a n d f i n a l l y t o f i v e . My friend Mr . J e f f r a y , w h o w a s

a m o n g t h e e a r l y d i g g e r s , t o l d m e t h a t o n c e w h e n s o m e

m e a s u r e w a s b e f o r e t h e l e g i s l a t u r e i n v o l v i n g t h e r i g h t s o f

d i g ge r s , P e t e r L a l o r , i n s p e a k i n g, m a d e a g e s t u r e w i t h t h e

s t u m p o f h i s a r m w h i c h e l i c i t e d a w i l d c h e e r f r o m t h e

a s s e m b l y a n d h e l p e d t o c a r r y h i s c a s e .

S o f a r a s I c o u l d l e a r n , c o m p a r a t i ve l y f e w o f t h e g r e a t



8 0 MY PILGRIMAGEf o r t u n e s o f A u s t r a l i a h a d b e e n b u i l t u p o n g o l d m i n e s .

A s w e d r o v e t h r o u g h B a l l a r a t m a n y h o u s e s w e r e p o i n t e d

o u t f a r s u n k e n i n t h e e a r t h b y r e a s o n o f t h e e x c a v a t i o n s

b e n e a t h t h e m , a n d t h e w e a l t h e x c a v a t e d a p p e a r s t o h a v e

r e s t e d l a r g e l y o n a s i m i l a r l y i n s e c u r e f o u n d a t i o n . T h e r e

a r e t r u e l e g e n d s h a u n t i n g t h e s e A u s t r a l i a n g o l d - f i e l d s

w h i c h s o u n d a s i f i n v e n t e d b y s o m e s a g e t o t e a c h t h e v a n i t y

o f l u c k . T h e r e i s i n V i c t o r i a a t o w n o f r u i n e d h o u s e s

-Matolock . I t s l i f e b e g a n i n 1 8 6 4 , w i t h a r u s h o f d i g -

g e r s . T h e l a s t i n h a b i t a n t l e f t i n 1 8 7 9 . I n t h a t f i f t e e n

y e a r s M a t o l o c k b a d f o u n d a f o r t u n e a n d s e e n i t t u r n t o

d r o s s . T h e d i g g e r s l o s t t h e i r w i t s , a s a t B a l l a r a t , l i t t h e i r

p i p e s w i t h b a n k - n o t e s , a n d p l a y e d a t s k i t t l e s w i t h b o t t l e s

of champagne .

D e e s o n , t h e p o o r m a n w h o w e n t o u t o n e d a y w i t h h i s

c h i l d r e n ' s h u n g r y cr i e s i n h i s e a r s a n d r e t u r n e d w i t h t h e

nugget ( " Welcome Stran ger " ) t h a t s o l d f o r t e n t h o u s a n d

p o u n d s , w a s a m a n o f g o o d h a b i t s , b u t h e d i d n o t k n o w w h e n

h e h a d e n o u g h . H e i n v e s t e d h i s f o r t u n e i n m a c h i n e r y a n d

l o s t i t a l l . H e t o i l e d o n t h r o u g h l i f e i n p o v e r t y a h u n -

d r e d y a r ds f r o m t h e s p o t w h e r e a s i n g l e s t r o k e o f h i s p i c k

t u r n e d u p a f o r t u n e .

M y v i s i t t o T a s m a n i a w a s i n r e s p o n s e t o a n e m i n e n t

y o u n g b a r r i s t e r , H o n . A . I n g l i s C l a r k , j u s t e n t e r i n g o n

t h e p u b l i c c a r e e r w h i c h h a s g i v e n h i m f a m e a s a j u r i s t

a n d l e g i s l a t o r . ( H e i s n o w ( 1 9 0 6 ) a t t o r n e y - g e n e r a l o f

Tasma nia . ) H e t o l d m e o f a s m a l l c l u b o f l i b e r a l t h i n k -

e r s w h o m e t t o g e t h e r t o r e a d l i b e r a l w o r k s a n d d i s c u s s

i m p o r t a n t s u b j e c t s .

The novel "For the Term of his Natural Life," by

M a r c u s C l a r k e , w i t h i t s t r a g i c a l p o w e r , h a d s o d a r k e n e d

t h a t i s l a n d t h a t I s h u d d e r e d a t t h e t h o u g h t o f v i s i t i n g i t .

A n d o n t h e v o y a g e t h i t h e r f r o m M e l b o u r n e t h e r e w a s a t



CAMPBELLITES 8 1

night an uncann y phenomenon : o n o n e s i d e o f t h e s h i p

there appeared to be a hundred yar ds distant a gloomy

f o r e s t p a s t w h i c h w e s a i l e d f o r h o u r s . While walkin g the

deck about midnight I asked some passing officer what

land that was ; he said we were several hundr ed miles

from land .

All gruesome imagin ation about Tasmania vanished

w h e n I f o u n d m y s e l f i n t h e d e l i g h t f u l h o m e c i r c l e a t R o s e -

m o n t , r e s i d e n c e o f t h e C l a r k s a t H o b a r t .

B e a u t i f u l f o r s i t u a t i o n i s H o b a r t , w i t h i t s o p a l e s c e n t

harbour and the green mountains surrounding it . Over

i t w a t c h e s M o u n t W e l l i n g t o n , w h o s e c l o u d - c a p p e d s u m m i t

I c o u l d n o t r e a c h , b u t f r o m w h o s e h i g h s h o u l d e r I s a w t h e

f i n e s t s c e n e I b e h e l d i n t h e c o l o n i e s . S t i l l m o r e i n t e r e s t -

i n g d i d I f i n d m y w a l k s a n d t a l k s i n t h e f i e l d s w i t h m y p h i -

l o s o p h i c a l f r i e n d s , a t e v e r y s t e p s e e i n g n e w a n d c u r i o u s

p l a n t s , f l o w e r s , b i r d s , w h o s e n e a r a c q u a i n t a n c e I w a s e n -

a b l e d t o m a k e b y t h e i r s c i e n t i f i c i n t e r p r e t e r , R o b e r t M .

Johnston . H i s i n t i m a c y w i t h t h e f a u n a a n d f l o r a a n d t h e

c h a r m o f h i s p e r s o n a l i t y r e v i v e d i n m e r e c o l l e c t i o n s o f m y

b e l o v e d t e a c h e r s , B a i r d , T h o r e a u , A g a s s i z .

On Sunday m ornin g I selected out of the list of

c h u r c h e s t h e s m a l l e s t c o n v e n t i c l e i n H o b a r t , s i m p l y b e -

c a u s e i t w a s " Cam pbellite ." Alexander Campbell was

t h e o n l y V i r g i n i a n w h o e v e r f o u n d e d a s e c t , a l i t t l e b r i c k

c h a p e l i n o u r t o w n , F r e d e r i c k s b u r g , b e i n g b y t r a d i t i o n

t h e f i r s t b u i l t b y C a m p b e l l i s m . I n e v e r e n t e r e d t h a t e x -

cept to hear Gough on tempera nc e, but now availed

m y s e l f o f m y f i r s t o p p o r t u n i t y t o h e a r a " C a m p b e l l i t e "

sermon . It turned out, however, that there was no

p r e a c h e r . A shipwright and a saddler spoke briefly to

about thirty people, and one or two others said a few

words ; but all sang with fervour fam iliar hymn s . It



8 2 MY PILGRIMAGEw a s a l l s o h u m b l e a s t o b e t o u c h i n g , a n d t h e p a t h o s w a s

i n c r e a s e d b y t h e l i t t l e f r a t e r n i t y ' s h i s t o r y , w h i c h I h a d

t h e c u r i o s i t y t o s e a r c h o u t . Some years before there

had com e to Hobart an evangelist from Kentucky . Heh a d a r a p t u r o u s k i n d o f e l o q u e n c e , a l s o a m a g n e t i c p e r -

s o n a l i t y ; h e d r e w l a r g e a u d i e n c e s , a n d f i l l e d s o m e w i t h

the enthusiasm that built for him this little chapel .

After a time fa mily affa irs ca lled him back to Ken-

t u c k y , b u t h e l e f t a p r o m i s e t h a t h e w o u l d r e t u r n . But

y e a r a f t e r y e a r p a s s e d w i t h o u t t h e i r h e a r i n g f r o m h i m ;

s o m e o f t h e f a t h e r s f e l l a s l e e p ; t h e i r c h i l d r e n a s k e d ,

" Where is the promise of his coming? " and fell away ;

a n d o n l y a f e w o f t h e o l d c o n g r e g a t i o n r e m a i n e d . These

p o o r p e o p l e s t i l l c h e r i s h e d t h e f a i t h t h a t t h e i r i n s p i r e d

founder would come again to them . I had reasons for

b e l i e v i n g t h a t h e w o u l d n e v e r r e t u r n .

Ah, my p oor " Campbellite " b r o t h e r s , h o w m a n y t i m e s

in later year s have I remembered you sitting there in

Hobart an d keeping alive the memory of your leader

As I have strolled through Concord a nd a bout Walden,

r e me mbe r in g how we w al ked there with Eme rso n a nd

T h o r e a u , a n d a b o u t L o n d o n , m e e t i n g n o m o r e t h e m o r n i n g

face of Browning or the deep eyes of Carlyle - but the

list would be long of the bereavements that r emind m e

of those lowly watc hers for their Beloved, who would

n e v e r r e t u r n .

A f t e r l i s t e n i n g t o t h e C a m p b e l l i t e s w e w a l k e d t o a h i l l ,

w h i c h h a v i n g n o n a m e I i n s i s t e d s h o u l d b e c a l l e d T r a n -

s i t H i l l. O n t h i s p l e a s a n t e l e v a t i o n , c o v e r e d w i t h s w a r d ,

m a n y c h i l d r e n w e r e p l a y i n g a r o u n d t h e q u e e r i r o n p i l l a r

f o u r f e e t h i g h a n d t h e s q u a r e f l a t s t o n e w h i c h t h e A m e r -

i c a n a s t r o n o m e r s s e t t h e r e w h e n t h e y o b s e r v e d t h e t r a n s i t

of Venus. In c limbing this height and the great Mount



AUSTRALIAN BIRDS 83

N e l s o n , we m a d e our way over the fallen trunks of

e n o r m o u s t r e e f e r n s w h i c h w e r e p i l e d o n e o n a n o t h e r ,

a n d l o o k e d l i k e h u g e s a u r i a n s .

A g a s s i z s a i d t o o u r c l a s s a t C a m b r i d g e , " T h e r e a r e

j o k e s i n n a t u r e ." One or two examp les I remarked in

t h e f a u n a o f A u s t r a l i a . T h e r e i s a f u n n y p e r t n e s s i n t h e

"hand-fish" that climbs up on the beach and p rops

i t s e l f o n i t s f i n g e r s a n d i n s p e c t s o n e c u r i o u s l y. The

° 1 l a u g h i n g - j a c k a s s " c a n n o t b e h e a r d w i t h o u t r e s p o n s i v e

l a u g h t e r , e s p e c i a l l y i f o n e c a n s e e t h e b i r d w h i l e i t i s

" p e r f o r m i n g , f o r i t s e e m s s o v e r y s o l e m n j u s t b e f o r e a n d

a f t e r i t h a s f i l l e d t h e a i r w i t h i n e x t i n g u i s h a b l e l a u g h t e r .

The he-haw in halations en ding the laugh suggest t h e

" j a c k a s s . " I t s e e m s a k i n d o f b u r l y k i n g f i s h e r , d r e s s e d

i n w h i t e a n d b r o w n , w i t h s l i g h t l y c r e s t e d h e a d a n d a

remark ably bright eye . I t i s n e v e r k i l l e d - not in

V i c t o r i a b e c a u s e i t s s k i l l i n d e s t r o y i n g s n a k e s p r o t e c t s

i t l e g a l l y , a n d i n o t h e r c o l o n i e s a f r i e n d l y f e e l i n g p r o -

t e c t s i t . I n t h e b u s h i t i s c a l l e d t h e « s e t t l e r ' s c l o c k , "

b e c a u s e i t s i n g s - t h o u g h n o t e x c l u s i v e l y - a t s u n r i s e

a n d s u n s e t .

T h e r e i s a g e n e r a l b e l i e f t h a t t h e A u s t r a l i a n b i r d s ,

t h o u g h f i n e i n p l u m a g e , a r e p o o r s o n g s t e r s , a n d w h e n

p r e t t y s o n g s a r e h e a r d i n t h e B o t a n i c a l G a r d e n s i t i s

common to hear them ascribed to imported varieties .

B u t i n t h i s t h e A u s t r a l i a n s a r e i n d a n g e r o f f a l l i n g

i n t o t h e m i s t a k e t h a t t h e o l d V i r g i n i a n s m a d e i n c a l l i n g

t h e i r b e s t s o n g s t e r t h e 11 E n g l i s h m o c k i n g b i r d . " I n t h e

A u s t r a l i a n w o o d s a n d g a r d e n s a r e s o m e n o t e s n o t t o b e

b e a r d e l s e w h e r e : t h o s e o f t h e h o n e y - e a t e r , w h i c h i s l i k e

t o u c h e s o n a g u i t a r ; t h e b e l l - b i r d , h e a r i n g w h o s e t i n k l e

a w a n d e r e r , i t i s s a i d , k n o w s t h a t w a t e r i s n e a r ; a n d t h e

f l u t e - l i k e n o t e s o f t h e m a g p i e . T h e m a g p i e ' i s t h e p e t o f



t

r

8 4 MY PILGRIMAGEcolonial homes and is taught songs . In Hobart I was

awakened the morning after my ar rival by a neigh-

bouring magpie, whose matin was " P o l l y , p u t t h e k e t t l e

on," to which an other responded with half the theme

o f " The Bould Sold ier Boy ." As to plumage, the won-

d e r f u l d e c o r a t i o n o f t h e l y r e - b i r d i s h a r d l y p a r a l l e l e d ;

b u t I w a s e s p e c i a l l y i n t e r e s t e d i n t h e " f i r e t a i l , " b e c a u s e

o f t h e n a t i v e f a n c y t h a t t h e t o u c h o f p u r e f i r e o n i t s t a i l

cam e through its ancestors having been scorched in

saving an ember for man when some demon was robbing

h i m o f t h e P r o m e t h e a n b l e s s i n g .

In California I had been adm onished to be careful

about the " Tasmanian Devils ." At Auckl a n d I he a r d

t h i s a n i m a l d e s c r i b e d a s f i e r c e , u n t a m a b l e , d a n g e r o u s . At

S y d n e y t h e T a s m a n i a n D e v i l w a s d e s c r i b e d a s f i e r c e b u t

n o t o f t e n e n c o u n t e r e d ; at Melbourne he dimin ished into

" a n u g l y l i t t l e b e a s t . " I n T a s m a n i a t h e l i t t l e n o c t u r n a l

c r e a t u r e i s v e r y t i m i d a n d s o r a r e t h a t I s o u g h t i t i n v a i n .

S i c t r a n s i t g l o r i a d i a b o l o r u m .

T h e q u e e r e s t t h i n g I s a w w a s t h e s o - c a l l e d " bulrush

c a t e r p i l l a r " o r " v e g e t a b l e c a t e r p i l l a r . " T h i s a l s o i s f o u n d

in New Zealand, where the natives name it " Aweto-Ho-

t e t e ;" but two specimens found in Tasma nia were given

m e b y t h e l i b r a r i a n o f H o b a r t , A l f r e d T a y l o r , t o w h o m I

a m i n d e b t e d f o r t h e f a c t s a b o u t i t . T h e p l a n t i s a f u n g u s ,

a s p h o e r i a , w h i c h g r o w s s e v e n o r e i g h t i n c h e s a b o v e t h e

g r o u n d , g e n e r a l l y i n a s i n g l e s t e m , r o u n d , a n d c u r v i n g a t

t h e e n d l i k e a s e r p e n t . T h i s e n d i s t h i c k l y c o v e r e d w i t h

b r o w n s e e d f o r s o m e t h r e e i n c h e s . I t g r o w s n e a r t h e r o o t

o f a p a r t i c u l a r t r e e , t h e " r a t a ." Whe n pulled u p its

s i n g l e r o o t i s f o u n d t o c o n s i s t o f a l a r g e c a t e r p i l l a r t h r e e

i n c h e s l o n g , w h i c h i s s o l i d w o o d . E v e r y d e t a i l o f t h i s

g r u b i s p r e s e r v e d . T h e s p h a r i a a l w a y s g r o w s o u t o f t h e



s

EX- CONVICTS 8 5

n a p e o f t h e n e c k , s t r i k e s r o o t , a n d c o m p l e t e l y t u r n s t h e i n -

t e r i o r o f t h e c r e a t u r e i n t o i t s o w n s u b s t a n c e . E x t e r n a l l y

t h e s h e l l i s l e f t i n t a c t , n o s m a l l e r r o o t l e t a p p e a r i n g a n y -

where. The aborigines in New Zealand eat this pure

w h i t e g r u b , a n d M r . T a yl o r s a i d t h a t t a k e n r a w i t i s d e -

l i c i o u s . T h e y a l s o b u r n t h e c a t e r p i l l a r - r o o t a n d r u b i t

i n t o t h e i r t a t t o o w o u n d s . A g o o d m a n y w h i t e p e o p l e b e -

l i e v e * t h a t t h e p l a n t a c t u a l l y d e v e l o p s t h e c a t e r p i l l a r f o r m ,

a n d w e c a n n o t l a u g h m u c h a t o u r a n c e s t o r s w h o b e l i e v e d

i n t h e v e g e t a b l e S c y t h i a n L a m b a n d t h e M a n d r a k e M a n ,

o f w h i c h l a s t a s p e c i m e n i s p r e s e r v e d a t L o n d o n i n t h e

Sloane Museum .

T h e g r e a t s u r p r i s e t h a t a w a i t e d m e i n T a s m a n i a w a s

i t s r e p r e s e n t a t i v e c h a r a c t e r i n a n i m p o r t a n t f e a t u r e o f

c i v i l i z a t i o n . I t i s p r o b a b l e t h a t t h e t h r i l l i n g n o v e l o f

M a r c u s C l a r k e , " F o r t h e T e r m o f H i s N a t u r a l L i f e , " w i t h

i t s t e r r i b l e p i c t u r e s o f p r i s o n l i f e a t N o r f o l k Is l a n d , h a d

s o m e t h i n g t o d o w i t h m a k i n g t h e i n s t i t u t i o n c o m p a r a -

t i v e l y e x c e l l e n t , -I w e n t t h r o u g h i t o b s e r v i n g l y , -b u t

a l s o w i t h t h e s t e a d y e m p t y i n g o f i t b y t h e p a s s i n g o f i t s

i n m a t e s t o t h e f r e e d o m o f g o o d s e r v i c e i n T a s m a n i a . The

s t o u t a r m s a n d s t r o n g p a s s i o n s w h i c h i n t h e c r o w d e d c i t i e s

o f G r e a t B r i t a i n , w e r e t r a i n e d o n l y t o c r i m e h a d h e r e m a d e

T a s m a n i a i n t o a g a r d e n . B y g o o d b e h a v i o u r a n d s e r v i c e

t h e e x i l e s a f t e r a t i m e o b t a i n e d r e l e a s e f r o m p e n a l l a b o u r ,

t h o u g h n o t l i b e r t y t o l e a v e T a s m a n i a . W i t h s o m e l i t t l e

m e a n s t o b e g i n w i t h t h e y g e n e r a l l y b e c o m e u s e f u l i n h a b i t -

a n t s , a n d r a r e l y r e t u r n t o c r i m e . A lady told me that

t h e b e s t n u r s e f o r h e r c h i l d r e n s h e e v e r h a d w a s a y o u n g

w o m a n w h o , a s s h e a f t e r w a r d s d i s c o v e r e d , h a d b e e n t r a n s -

p o r t e d f r o m En g l a n d f o r ki l l i n g h e r i l l e g i t i m a t e c h i l d . Ag o o d m a n y o f t h e s e n t e n c e s a r e f o r l i m i t e d p e r i o d s , b u t

m o s t o f t h e e x i l e s p r e f e r t o r e m a i n i n T a s m a n i a .



86 MY PILGRIMAGEN u m e r o u s s t o r i e s a r e t o l d a b o u t t h e s e c r i m i n a l s . One

was of an English judge who visited Hobart, a nd went

i n t o a b a r b e r - s h o p . The barber while shaving him said,

"Judge, you don't remember m e ." The judge said he

d i d n o t , a n d t h e b a r b e r c o n t i n u e d , " I h a v e t h e a d v a n t a g e

of your honour ; y o u g a v e m e s i x y e a r s o u t h e r e ! " The

r a z o r m o v e d g e n t l y , h o w e v e r , o v e r t h e j u d g e ' s t h r o a t , a n d

h e p a i d a g o o d f e e f o r a g o o d s t o r y t o t e l l i n L o n d o n .

I c a n n o t v o u c h f o r t h e e x a c t n e s s o f t h a t i n c i d e n t , b u t

one occurred in my own experience . In compa ny with a

y o u n g E n g l i s h m a n I d r o v e a b o u t i n a t h i n l y s e t t l e d p a r t

of Tasman ia . At noon we halted at a sm all tavern to

get refreshments for ourselves and our horse . In the

p a r l o u r w e f o u n d t w o r e s p e c t a b l e m e n w i t h g r e y i s h h a i r

a n d s p e c t a c l e s , p l a y i n g c r i b b a g e . I n c o n v e r s a t i o n w e i n -

quired something about convicts said to be working in

t h a t d i s t r i c t , a n d t h e y s a i d t h e r e w e r e a g o o d m a n y a n d

d o i n g w e l l . O n e o f t h e s e p l e a s a n t p e r s o n s w e n t o u t w i t h

m y c o m p a n i o n t o s e e a b o u t o u r h o r s e ; t h e o t h e r o n e , w h e n

we were alone, advised me to be ca reful how I talked

a b o u t c o n v i c t s , a d d i n g , " That ma n I was pla ying with

came out from England under unpleasant circumstances . "

After our good luncheon an d departure, my comp an ion

told me that the man who went with him gave the same

a d v i c e , r e m a r k i n g t h a t h i s o p p o n e n t a t c r i b b a g e h a d c o m e

o u t o r i g i n a l l y a s a c o n v i c t . O f c o u r s e I c a n n o t b e c e r t a i n

t h a t t h e s e e l d e r l y p e r s o n s h a d n o t d e v i s e d a l i t t l e c o m e d y

f o r t h e e n t e r t a i n m e n t o f i n q u i s i t i v e s t r a n g e r s .

The last of the Tasma nian s has perished . In English

i m a g i n a t i o n s t h e n a t i v e s h a d l o o m e d u p i n t o f e r o c i o u s c r e a -

t u r e s ; t h e p h r a s e G ° Native Devils" paralleled "Tasmanian

D e v i l s . " A c o n s i d e r a b l e n u m b e r o f t r o o p s w e r e s e n t o u t t o

s e a r c h f o r n a t i v e s , b u t c o u l d f i n d n o n e . A t l a s t t h e y m a d e



0

EXTINCTION OF TASMANIANS 87

a cordon ac ross one end of Tasman ia and a dvanced day

b y d a y a c r o s s t h e w h o l e i s l a n d , c a t c h i n g i n t h e i r n e t t w o

a g e d p e o p l e ! T h e i r p h o t o g r a p h s w e r e s a i d t o b e t h o s e o f

t h e n a t i v e k i n g a n d q u e e n : t h e f a c e s a r e h a g g a r d a n d d i s -

figured by want and woe .

T h e e x t e r m i n a t i o n o f a r a c e b y n o m e a n s b l o o d t h i r s t y

w a s n o t d u e t o B r i t i s h v i o l e n c e , b u t t o i g n o r a n t a n d p u r i -

t a n i c a l m i s s i o n s . T h e e a r l i e r m i s s i o n a r i e s w e r e s e l f - s a c r i -

ficing, but as of old it was not the worldly pagan em -

p e r o r s w h o p e r s e c u t e d , b u t t h e r e l i g i o u s o n e s , s o i t w a s

those missionaries who took their dogmas seriously who

did the great mischief in Tasma nia . In 183 4, as Aus-

t r a l i a n a n n a l s r e c o r d , 1 1 a fund was raised in England

for the purpose of clothing the native women . A m o n g

the subscr ibers wer e the Duchess of Kent, Lady Noel

Byron , an d the Hon . Mrs . Wilbraham ." It was these

p i o u s p r u d e s w h o k i l l e d o f f t h e T a s m a n i a n s . I t w a s t h e

b e l i e f o f e v e r y s c i e n t i f i c m a n I m e t t h a t t h e y a l l w e r e

a t t a c k e d b y t u b e r c u l o s i s s o o n a f t e r t h e y p u t o n c l o t h i n g .

I l e c t u r e d i n v a r i o u s p a r t s o f T a s m a n i a , a n d h a d t h e

h o n o u r o f b e i n g a t t a c k e d i n t h e p a p e r s b y o r t h o d o x w r i t e r s .

M y l e c t u r e s w e r e n o t t h e o l o g i c a l , b u t m y a c c o u n t o f L o n -

d o n , m y s k e t c h e s o f s c i e n t i f i c m e n , a n d t h e f a c t t h a t I

w a s t h e r e b y i n v i t a t i o n o f d i s t i n g u i s h e d r a t i o n a l i s t s g a v e

s u f f i c i e n t g r o u n d f o r t h i s c l e r i c a l i m p r u d e n c e , w h i c h f i l l e d

m y h a l l s w h e r e v e r I w e n t .

One thing especially imp ressed me in the religious

atmosphere throughout Australia : t h e r e w a s a f r i e n d l y

allianc e between Freethinkers and Spiritualists . The

w h o l e p o p u l a t i o n s e e m e d t o h a v e t h e i r e y e s s e t i n v i o l a b l y

o n t h e f u t u r e l i f e . Most of them or their fathers had

m i g r a t e d t o t h a t d i s t a n t s h o r e t o s e e k t h e i r f o r t u n e s , a n d

t h e n t o r e t u r n t o t h e o l d t h r e s h o l d a n d t h e l o v e d h e a r t s



88 MY PILGRIMAGE'at home . T h e e m i g r a n t s w e r e n o d o u b t m o s t l y o f s a n -

g u i n e t e m p e r a m e n t , e a g e r l y l o o k i n g f o r w a r d , a n d p e r -

haps there ma y have been thus engendered the spirit

t h a t " n e v e r i s , b u t a l w a y s t o b e , b l e s t . "

I was shown a p ap er read to the club by the natu-

r a l i s t R o b e r t M . J o h n s t o n , o n " Comm on Fungoid Illu-

s i o n s , " a c c o m p a n i e d b y a d i a g r a m s h o w i n g t h e r e l a t i v e

v a l u e o f o b s e r v a t i o n s , a s d e t e r m i n e d b y t h e n a t u r e o f t h e

t e s t i m o n y a n d o t h e r c o n d i t i o n s u n d e r w h i c h t h e o b s e r -

v a t i o n s a r e m a d e . T h e r e a r e s h o w n t h e g r a d a t i o n s f r o m

t h e s c i e n t i f i c e v i d e n c e , w h e r e a l l t h e s e n s e s i n t h e i r h e a l t h ,

s p e c i a l l y t r a i n e d , i n g o o d p o s i t i o n , e q u i p p e d w i t h t e s t e d

i n s t r u m e n t s , c o n d u c t t h e i n q u i r y , t h r o u g h o b s e r v a t i o n s

m a d e w h e r e t h e s e a i d s o n e a f t e r a n o t h e r f a i l , d o w n t o

t h e l o w e s t d e g r e e , t h e z e r o o f i n t e l l i g e n c e - i n s a n i t y .

" T h e i n s a n e a r e f o r c e d b y d i s e a s e t o l i v e a l w a y s w i t h i n

a w o r l d o f w o n d e r s s u c h a s t h o s e s o u g h t a f t e r a t t i m e s b y

t h e i g n o r a n t . "

O n m y v o y a g e f r o m T a s m a n i a I r e a d t h r e e n o v e l e t t e s

a b o u t i d e a l i s l a n d s o r s o c i e t i e s , T h e G a r d e n o f E d e n , "

"The Island of Dubitadiva" (by James Smith) , "A Few

H o u r s i n a F a r - o f f A g e " (by Mrs. H. A . D u g d a l e ) , a n d

c l o s e d t h e m a l l w i t h a f e e l i n g t h a t i t w o u l d s u f f i c e c o u l d

I d w e l l w i t h t h a t c i r c l e o f a s p i r i n g s p i r i t s a t H o b a r t t o

w h o m I h a d j u s t b i d d e n a l a s t f a r e w e l l .

Between Melbourne an d Sydney one tra vels nearly a

d a y a m i d g u m - t r e e s , w h o s e t r u n k s , a c c o r d i n g t o o n e ' s

m o o d , m a y s e e m s i l v e r y o r b l a n c h e d i n d e a t h . Man y of

t h e m a r e i n d e e d d e a d , g i r d l e d b y t h e f a r m e r s. The bush

h a s a d e s o l a t e l o o k . I n t h e g r e y m o r n i n g , a s o u r t r a i n

p a s s e d , a l a r g e " n a t i v e b e a r " w a s s e e n c l a s p i n g a t e l e -

g r a p h p o l e . A s t o b e a r s a r e a t t r i b u t e d a p a s s i o n f o r h o n e y ,

I b e l i e v e d i t w a s a c u b d e l u d e d i n t o t h e b e l i e f t h a t t h e



INAPPROPRIATE NAMES' 8 9

h u m m i n g o f t h e w i r e s i n d i c a t e d t h e p r o x i m i t y o f a h i v e.

M y t h e o r y w a s s p e e d i l y u p s e t b y t h e r e m i n d e r t h a t t h e

"n a t i v e b e a r " i s n o b e a r a t a l l , b u t a m a r s u p i a l ( k o a l a ) ;

h o w e v e r , i t l o v e s f r u i t , a n d p o s s i b l y h o n e y . A way the

A u s t r a l i a n s h a v e o f c a l l i n g t h i n g s b y i n a p p r o p r i a t e n a m e s

i s i n c o n v e n i e n t . T h e i r b e a r i s n o b e a r , t h e i r w h i t i n g f i s h

i s n o f i s h , t h e i r f l y i n g f o x i s o n l y a b i g b a t , t h e i r c h e r r y

i s n o c h e r r y . M o s t o f u s h a v e h e a r d i t r e p o r t e d t h a t

" A u s t r a l i a i s a p l a c e w h e r e t h e o y s t e r s g r o w o n t r e e s ,

t h e f e n c e s a r e m a d e o f m a h o g a n y , a n d c h e r r i e s g r o w w i t h

t h e i r s t o n e s o u t s i d e ." There is no real mahogan y-tree

i n t h e c o u n t r y , s o f a r a s I c o u l d l e a r n ; t h e s o - c a l l e d

" c h e r r y " i s a k i n d o f c y p r e s s w h o s e s t o n e s d o g r o w o u t -

s i d e i t s r e d b e r r y ; a n d t h e t r u t h o f t h e o y s t e r s a y i n g

i s t h a t a b o u t s o m e h a r b o u r s o y s t e r s c o v e r t h e b e a c h r o c k s

a n d o c c a s i o n a l l y t h e r o o t s a n d f a l l e n t r u n k s o f t r e e s g r o w -

i n g n e a r t h e w a t e r .

W h e n I w a s s e a t e d a t t h e h o s p i t a b l e t a b l e o f B i s h o p

M o o r h o u s e a n d l i s t e n i n g t o R e v . C h a r l e s S t r o n g i n M e l -

b o u r n e , I l i t t l e s u p p o s e d t h a t I s h o u l d e v e r a d d t o t h e

t r o u b l e s o f e i t h e r o f t h o s e g e n t l e m e n ; s t i l l l e s s t h a t t h e y

w o u l d e v e r a d d t o m i n e . S o , h o w e v e r , i t c a m e a b o u t . B e -

f o r e m y a r r i v a l i n M e l b o u r n e t h e a g e n t i n t o w h o s e h a n d s

m y s c h e m e o f l e c t u r e s h a d b e e n e n t r u s t e d h a d i s s u e d c i r -

culars that when I saw them took my breath away . I

was proc laimed as "the fam ous Champ ion of Civil and

R e l i g i o u s L i b e r t y , " e t c . , a n d a l l t h i s w a s succeeded by

t h e f o l l o w i n g q u o t a t i o n s : -

As yet struggles the twelfth hour of the Night .

B i r d s o f d a r k n e s s a r e o n t h e w i n g ; s p e c t r e s u p r e a r ; t h e

d e a d w a l k ; t h e l i v i n g d r e a m . T h o u , E t e r n a l P r o v i d e n c e ,

w i l t m a k e t h e D a y d a w n . - J e a n P a u l .

God speed Mr . J u s t i c e H i g i n b o t h a m , a n d t e a c h h i m ,



90 MY PILGRIMAGEb y m e t h o d s w h i c h w e c a n n o t f o l l o w , s e c r e t s o f d i v i n e

truth which may glorify his Master and ours . He is

s t i l l o u r b r o t h e r b y v i r t u e o f h i s t r u e l o v e f o r C h r i s t .-Bis h o p M o o r h o u s e .

There are p lain en ough i n d i c a t i o n s-i t n e s s t h e

brin ging out of Mr. Moncure Conway -t h a t s o o n e r o r

l a t e r t h e B a t t l e m u s t c o m e . -Rev. D . A% M 'F, a c h r a n .

I n v i e w o f r e c e n t e v e n t s a n d o f t h e p r e s e n t f e r m e n t

i n t h e p u b l i c m i n d , M r . C o n w a y ' s v i s i t t o t h i s c i t y a p -

p e a r s t o b e v e r y o p p o r t u n e . - The Argus .

T h e t h r e e q u o t a t i o n s f o l l o w i n g t h a t f r o m J e a n P a u l

R i c h t e r f a i r l y c o n s c r i p t e d m e i n t o t h e v a n g u a r d o f a n

imminent battle of whose conditions I knew nothing .

The very na mes of the four generals were given . Myl e c t u r e s c l o s e d a t M e l b o u r n e o n O c t o b e r 1 6 , a n d o n N o -

vember 12 the Genera l Assembly of the Presbyteria n

C h u r c h o f V i c t o r i a w a s t o m e e t . The Melbourne orga n

o f t h e a n t i - S t r o n g p a r t y, " D a i l y T e l e g r a p h " ( w h i c h h a d

i n g e n i o u s l y u t i l i z e d m y s t a t e m e n t s ) , d e t a c h e d f r o m t h e i r

context, to fling at Moorhouse an d Strong, mixed my

h u m b l e s e l f u p w i t h t h o s e l e a d e r s o n t h e m o r n i n g o f t h e

G e n e r a l A s s e m b l y ' s m e e t i n g i n a n a d r o i t l e a d e r . I c i t e a

s p e c i m e n : -

T h e c h i e f d i s t u r b i n g i n fl u e n c e w h i c h t h r e a t e n s t h e P r e s -

b y t e r i a n A s s e m b l y c o m e s f r o m o u t s i d e . O n e , a t l e a s t , o f

o u r c o n t e m p o r a r i e s u n d e r t o o k l o n g a g o t h e c h e e r f u l t a s k

o f w r i t i n g t h e P r e s b y t e r i a n C h u r c h o u t o f e x i s t e n c e .

T h e o n l y t h i n g i t h a s y e t s u c c e e d e d i n d e s t r o y i n g i s i t s

o w n l i t e r a r y r e p u t a t i o n a n d t h e p a t i e n c e o f i t s r e a d e r s ;

s t i l l i t s t i c k s t o i t s c u r i o u s p o l i c y w i t h a p e r s e v e r a n c e

w o r t h y o f a b e t t e r c a u s e . Mr . Mon cu r e D . C o n w a y ' s

c h e e r f u l t h e o r y a b o u t t h e c h u r c h e s i s t h a t t h e y a r e i n s p i r e d

and kept going by the devil . He "keeps the churches

f l o u r i s h i n g , " a n d " p r o v i d e s C h r i s t i a n s w i t h t h e i r r e l i -

g i o n . " I t w o u l d " b e i m p o s s i b l e , " M r . Moncure D . C o n -



MY FAME IN SYDNEY 91

w a y a s s u r e s m a n k i n d , " f o r a n y c h u r c h t o l a s t l o n g w i t h o u t

t h e d e v i l . " O u r c o n t e m p o r a r y p u b l i s h e s t h i s r e m a r k a b l e

t h e o r y o f t h e o r i g i n a n d n a t u r e o f c h u r c h e s t o t h e w o r l d ,

a n d e v i d e n t l y i t s e l f a c t s u p o n i t .

T h e s t a t e m e n t i n m y l e c t u r e o n D e m o n o l o g y , t h u s c l i p p e d

u p f o r a p u r p o s e , w a s a n a c c o u n t o f t h e p a r t p l a y e d b y

S a t a n a n d A n t i c h r i s t i n a n c i e n t t i m e s i n t e r r o r i z i n g t h e

p e o p l e , a n d t h e d e g r e e t o w h i c h i n r e c e n t t i m e s " t h e t e r -

r o r s o f t h e L a w " s t i m u l a t e d r e v i v a l s . I i n v i t e d a n i n t e r -

v i e w w i t h a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e o f t h e " M e l b o u r n e A r g u s " f o r

t h e p u r p o s e o f r e l i e v i n g t h e b i s h o p a n d M r . S t r o n g f r o m

a n y p a r t i c i p a t i o n i n m y v i e w s , a n d w e n t o f f t o S y d n e y

w i t h s o r r o w t h a t I s h o u l d b e m a d e t o a d d a n y w e i g h t t o

t h e m i l l s t o n e a r o u n d t h e i r n e c k .

B u t w h e n I r e a c h e d S y d n e y I f o u n d r e a s o n f o r d i s m a y

a t t h e m i l l s t o n e t h o s e g e n t l e m e n h a d h u n g a r o u n d m y n e c k .

The "Melbourne Daily Telegraph" an d other sectar ian

o r g a n s , a l s o a n i n g e n i o u s M e l b o u r n e c o r r e s p o n d e n t o f t h e

" S y d n e y H e r a l d , " h a d g i v e n m e a f a m e i n S y d n e y l u d i -

c r o u s l y di s p r o p o r t i o n a t e t o m y d e s e r t s ; a n d t h o u g h p r o b -

a b l y n o n e o f m y a c c u s e r s r e v e r e n c e d t h e c h a r a c t e r o f

J e s u s m o r e t h a n I d i d , I f o u n d m y s e l f a f u l l - b l o w n a p o s -

t l e o f An t i ch r i s t . T h e e y e s o f a l l A u s t r a l i a , a n d e s p e c i a l l y

o f S y d n e y , w e r e f i x e d o n t h e G e n e r a l A s s e m b l y t h a t m e t

f o r c o m b a t N o v e m b e r 1 2 , a n d o n t h e e v e n i n g o f N o v e m b e r

1 3 m y o p e n i n g l e c t u r e i n S y d n e y h a d t o b e g i v e n . The

s u b j e c t I h a d a n n o u n c e d w a s " T o l e r a t i o n o f O p i n i o n , o r

P l e a s f o r P e r s e c u t i o n . " M y f i r s t l e c t u r e i n M e l b o u r n e

w a s o n " T h e P r e - D a r w i n i t e a n d P o s t - D a r w i n i t e W o r l d . "

A l t h o u g h i n t r o d u c e d w i t h p e r s o n a l r e c o l l e c t i o n s o f D a r w i n

t h a t w e r e a p p l a u d e d , m y s t a t e m e n t o f t h e e x t e n t t o w h i c h

r e l i g i o u s p h i l o s o p h y h a d b e e n a f f e c t e d b y h i s g r e a t g e n e r -

a l i z a t i o n e x c i t e d a n o u t b u r s t i n t h e s e c t a r i a n o r g a n s , a n d



9 9 , MY PILGRIMAGEI r e s o l v e d t o p u t m y r i g h t f o o t f o r e m o s t i n S y d n e y . I bad

t a k e n t h e u t m o s t p a i n s t o m a k e m y l e c t u r e o n T o l e r a t i o n

c o n c i l i a t o r y . I t w a s g i v e n i n P r o t e s t a n t H a l l , t h e c h i e f

o n e i n S y d n e y , t o a g o o d a u d i e n c e w h i c h i n c l u d e d t h e P r e -

mier, Sir Joseph Parkes, other ministers, and eminent

c i t i z e n s . But hardly ha d I given the exordium when

c r o w d s a s s e m b l e d a t t h e d o o r s a n d w i n d o w s , s h o u t i n g S a l -

vation Army hymn s . Each cr owd sang a different hymn,

t h e r e s u l t b e i n g a c o n f u s i o n o f y e l l s w h i c h m y v o i c e c o u l d

hardly surmount . W h e n , h o w e v e r , t h e s e n o i s y s a i n t s d i s -

covered that my voice was not quite drowned, some of

t h e m r e p a i r e d t o a b o w l i n g a l l e y a d j o i n i n g a w a l l o f t h e

h a l l a n d z e a l o u s l y r o l l e d t h e b a l l s . '

Care wa s taken by the ma na gers of Protestant Hall

t h a t t h e a n n o y a n c e s h o u l d n o t b e r e p e a t e d , b u t t h e b a l l s

w e n t o n r o l l i n g i n t h e ° ° S y d n e y H e r a l d , " w h e r e i n a n o n y -

m o u s l e t t e r s m y l e c t u r e s w e r e d i s t o r t e d . F o r i n s t a n c e , I

g a v e a s k e t c h o f C a r d i n a l N e w m a n , a n d o f m y g o i n g s o m e

d i s t a n c e o n a t e r r i b l y w i n t r y m o r n i n g a t d a y b r e a k t o h i s

o r a t o r y ( B i r m i n g h a m ) , w h e r e h e u s u a l l y c o n d u c t e d m a s s ,

i M y c a s e , h o w e v e r , w a s m i l d c o m p a r e d w i t h t h a t o f a n O r a n g e m a n w h o

v e n t u r e d t o s p e a k i n t h e h a l l s h o r t l y b e f o r e . This was at a Home Rule

m e e t i n g g a t h e r e d t o l i s t e n t o J o h n R e d m o n d , M . P . R e d m o n d ' s t h r i l l i n g

e l o q u e n c e h a d e x c i t e d h i s I r i s h a u di e n c e t o t h e l a s t d e g r e e o f i n t e n s i t y . A f t e r

h e h a d f i n i s h e d , t h e b l a n d I r i s h c h a i r m a n s a i d t h a t i f a n y o n e w a n t e d t o

put a question Mr . Redmond would an swer it . Whereupon the Orange-

m a n r o s e a n d s a i d s h a r p l y , " I w i s h t o p u t a q u e s t i o n . " H e w a s i n v i t e d t o

t h e p l a t f o r m , w h e r e h e b e g a n s o m e s h a r p c r i t i c i s m s , w h e n a n e x c i t e d H o m e

R u l e r o n t h e p l a t f o r m s t e p s j u m p e d u p a n d f e l l e d h i m . H e l a y a p p a r e n t l y

d e a d , a n d h a d t o b e c a r r i e d o u t i n t o a b a c k r o o m , a d o c t o r f o l l o w i n g . T h e r e

w a s a w i l d s c e n e , t h e c r o w d r i s i n g u p a n d y e l l i n g " f ai r p la y, " " s e r v e d h i m

r i g h t , " e t c . I t w a s l o n g b e f o r e q u i e t c o u l d b e r e s t o r e d . T h e l i t t l e c h a i r -

m a n , t o t a l l y w i t h o u t h u m o u r , t h e n s a i d p o l i t e l y , " D o e s a n y o t h e r g e n t l e m a n

w i s h t o a s k a q u e s t i o n ? " No one responded . I a f t e r w a r d s m e t M r . R e d -

m o n d , w h o t o l d m e t h a t t h i s s t o r y w a s v e r y n e a r t h e f a c t .



FRIENDS AND ENTERTAINERS 93

t h o u g h h a r d l y e x p e c t i n g t h a t t h e a g e d m a n w o u l d a r i s e o n

s u c h a b i t t e r m o r n i n g , s u b s t i t u t e s b e i n g a t h a n d . H i s p r e -

s e n c e o n t h a t o c c a s i o n , w h e n o n l y t w o o r t h r e e a t t e n d e d ,

w a s m e n t i o n e d w i t h a d m i r a t i o n , a n d e v e r y w o r d I s a i d

w a s t o h i s c r e d i t . Y e t s o m e s i l l y - o r m a l i c i o u s -C a t h o -

l i c d e s c r i b e d w h a t I s a i d a s a n a t t a c k o n t h e c a r d i n a l !

T h o u g h o t h e r s t a t e m e n t s a b o u t m y t w e l v e l e c t u r e s w e r e

e q u a l l y m i s l e a d i n g , t h i s p a r t i c u l a r o n e a n n o y e d m e m o s t

b e c a u s e i t h a d b e e n a s o r t o f s p e c i a l t y o f m y m i n i s t r y f o r

t h i r t y y e a r s t o m a i n t a i n t h a t Pr o t e s t a n t i s m , t h e o l o g i c a l l y

a n d m o r a l l y , w a s a r e l a p s e i n t o t h e s t o n y a g e s f r o m t h e

h e i g h t t o w h i c h e v o l u t i o n h a d c a r r i e d C a t h o l i c i s m , w i t h

i t s m e r r y S u n d a y , a n t i q u a t e d d o g m a s , e x a l t a t i o n o f a

f e m i n i n e d i v i n i t y , a n d c u l t o f t h e f i n e a r t s .

B u t a g o o d m a n y i n S y d n e y w e r e a s h a m e d o f i t s h o r -

n e t s . The chief club (Union) elected me an honorary

member, a nd I met there cultured gentlemen, besides

b e i n g a b l e t o e s c a p e f r o m t h e p o o r " c h i e f h o t e l " t o g o o d

a c c o m m o d a t i o n s i n t h e c l u b . I w a s i n v i t e d t o g i v e t h e

a n n u a l l e c t u r e b e f o r e t h e p h i l o s o p h i c a l a n d s c i e n t i f i c

i n s t i t u t i o n , a n d f o r s o m e d a y s w a s t h e g u e s t o f t h e a d m i r -

a b l e J u s t i c e W i n d e y e r , w h o p r e s i d e d o n t h a t o c c a s i o n .

S e v e r a l l a d i e s w h o m I h a d k n o w n i n L o n d o n , m a r r i e d i n

S y d n e y t o e x c e l l e n t m e n , e n t e r t a i n e d m e i n t h e i r h o u s e s ,

a r r a n g e d p r e t t y e x c u r s i o n s f o r m e , a n d i n t r o d u c e d m e

t o t h e b e s t p e o p l e . T h e F a t e s , w h o d u r i n g m y f i r s t w e e k

i n S y d n e y w e r e u g l y a s F u r i e s , p r e s e n t l y t o o k o n t h e

l i n e a m e n t s o f t h e W i n d e y e r l a d i e s , o f M r s . H e r o n , M r s .

H a r r i s , a n d i n t h e i r b e a u t i f u l h o m e s m y h u r t s w e r e h e a l e d .

I n f a c t I b - p g a n t o e x c u s e t h e h o r n e t s . A s a l e c t u r e r I

w a s a d i s a p p o i n t m e n t t o t h e a v e r a g e l e c t u r e - g o e r ; I was

n o t a " s p e l l - b i n d e r , " t a k i n g u p l a r g e w o r l d - t h e m e s , w i t h

a m i l l e n n i a l m a g i c - l a n t e r n t h r o w i n g o n t h e p o p u l a r e y e



e

9 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

v i s i o n s o f E n g l a n d , Am e r i c a , Au s t r a l i a , t r a n s f i g u r e d i n

t h e n e a r f u t u r e . M y m i s s i o n , i f I h a d a n y , w a s s t i l l t o

i n d i v i d u a l m i n d s . I l e c t u r e d a b o u t t h e g r e a t l i t e r a r y a n d

s c i e n t i f i c m e n w h o m I h a d k n o w n i n E u r o p e a n d A m e r i c a ,

t r y i n g t o i n t e r p r e t t h e i r i n f l u e n c e a n d t h e i r c o n t r i b u t i o n s

t o t h o u g h t a n d k n o w l e d g e . I n a s e n s e t h e s e w e r e t o t h e

m a s s e s a n o t h e r - w o r l d l y i n t e r e s t s , w h i l e I w a s n o t o t h e r -

w o r l d l y e n o u g h i n r e l i g i o n . A n e m i n e n t s c h o l a r s a i d t o

m e , " N e a r l y e v e r y t h i n k e r i n S y d n e y a g r e e s w i t h y o u , b u t

w e d o n o t s p e a k p u b l i c l y o n s u c h s u b j e c t s . W h y r e a s o n

w i t h p e o p l e w h o d o n o t k n o w t h e m e a n i n g o f r e a s o n ? "

T h e f u s i o n o f F r e e t h o u g h t a n d S p i r i t u a l i s m ( o r T h e o s o -

p h y ), e l s e w h e r e r e f e r r e d t o , h a d b e c o m e s o c o mp l e t e i n

S y d n e y t h a t a n o r a t o r c o m b i n e d b o t h i n h i s l e c t u r e s i n a

t h e a t r e e v e r y S u n d a y e v e n i n g . I r e g r e t t e d n o t h e a r i n g

t h i s a b l e m a n , C h a r l e s B r i g h t , w h o i n s i s t e d t h a t I s h o u l d

t a k e h i s p l a c e o n m y o n l y r e m a i n i n g S u n d a y . T h e t h e a t r e

w a s c r o w d e d , m o r e t h a n t h r e e t h o u s a n d b e i n g p r e s e n t .

T h i s s t r a n g e m o v e m e n t h a d , I w a s t o l d , a l m o s t s w a l l o w e d

u p U n i t a r i a n i s m . Th e w i d o w o f t h e l a t e s t U n i t a r ia n m i n -

i s t e r ( M r . P i l l a r s ) . h a d m a r r i e d C h a r l e s B r i g h t , a n d h a d

b e e n o c c a s i o n a l l y l e c t u r i n g f o r h e r h u s b a n d i n t h e t h e a t r e

w i t h m u c h e f f e c t . A b o u t t h e s a m e t i m e a f e m a l e e v a n -

g e l i s t , M r s . H a m m o n d , w a s d r a w i n g l a r g e r c r o w d s t h a n

a n y r e g u l a r p r e a c h e r a t t r a c t e d . T h i s r e v i v a l i s t w a s p r e a c h -

i n g i n S y d n e y w h i l e I w a s t h e r e , a n d i n m y f i f t h l e c t u r e

( ° ° W o m a n a n d E v o l u t i o n " ) I r e f e r r e d t o h e r a p o s t o l a t e

a s s h o w i n g h o w f a r s o c i e t y h a d t r a v e l l e d a w a y f r o m t h e

P a u li n e d o c tr i n e a g a i n s t w o m e n p r e a c h e r s , a n d c o n g r at u -

l a t e d t h e c i t y o n h a v i n g t w o e l o q u e n t l a d i e s i n t h e r e l i - ,

g i o u s c o n f l i c t o f t h e t i m e .

I n t h e M u s e u m I s a w t h e n e w l y d i s c o v e r e d s k u l l o f t h e

T h y l a c o l e s . W h e n P r o f e s s o r O w e n w a s i n A u s t r a l i a h e



BOTANY BAY 9 5

was shown a sm all bone which p uzzled his friend Dr .

G e o r g e B e n n e t t ( w h o r e p e a t e d t o m e t h e s t o r y ) a n d o t h e r

n a t u r a l i s t s i n S y d n e y . Owen drew an outline of the head

of the unknown a nima l suggested to him by the bone . I

w a s a b l e t o c o m p a r e t h e d r a w i n g w i t h t h e c o m p l e t e s k u l l

( f o u n d i n 1 8 8 1 ) , a n d t h e t w o-s p e c i a l l y t h e j a w s-o n -

formed remarkably .

I n t h e a d m i r a b l e Z o o l o g i c a l G a r d e n s I s a w s o m e l a r g e

ground par rots, a New Zealand bird once of good char -

a c t e r , b u t s a d l y d e m o r a l i z e d b y t h e i n t r o d u c t i o n o f E n g -

l i s h s h e e p . F o r a l o n g t i m e i t c o n t e n t e d i t s e l f w i t h t h e f t s

o f f l e e c e , b u t a t l e n g t h t o o k t o p e r c h i n g o n t h e b a c k o f

s h e e p a n d d i g g i n g d o w n t i l l i t d r e w o u t t h e k i d n e y s . This

w a s t h e o n l y p a r t o f t h e s h e e p i t s e e m e d t o r e l i s h . It

m a y h a v e b e e n o n c e a p r e t t y p a r r o t , b u t t h o s e I s a w w e r e

u g l y a s s a s s i n s , t h e b r e a s t c o l o u r e d l i k e r u s t y i r o n . Ishowed my horror of their crime by lunc hing on cold

p a r r o t a t t h e f i r s t o p p o r t u n i t y , a n d d u r i n g t h e i n d i g e s -

t i o n s p e c u l a t e d o n t h e m o r a l e f f e c t l i k e l y t o b e p r o d u c e d

on Anglo-Saxon humanity by transpla ntation am id the

strange faun a of the southwestern hemisphere .

Some friends took me on an afternoon excursion down

t h e h a r b o u r t o B o t a n y B a y . I t h o u g h t i t a g r u e s o m e d i r e c -

t i o n , b u t f o u n d t o m y a m a z e m e n t t h a t B o t a n y B a y w a s n o t

a n d n e v e r h a d b e e n a c o n v i c t s e t t l e m e n t . When anc iently

t h e f i r s t s h i p l o a d o f c o n v i c t s a r r i v e d , i t w a s d e c i d e d t h a t

the place would not answer at all, and the pr ison was

erected far away near Darling Point . But consignm ents

from England, where the chan ge was for a time unknown,

c o n t i n u e d t o b e d i r e c t e d t o B o t a n y B a y . I n t h i s w a y t h e

n a m e o f a f a v o u r i t e b a t h i n g p l a c e h a s b e c o m e p r o v e r b i a l

for the wretchedness that is near er to the sweet name

"Darling . " H e r e , t h e n , w a s a n o t h e r p a r a b l e !



96 MY PILGRIMAGEJustice Windeyer, a learned Freethinker a nd Spirit-

u a l i s t , t o l d m e t h a t a l a r g e n u m b e r o f t h o s e w h o l i s t e n e d

w i t h h i g h e s t a p p r e c i a t i o n t o m y l e c t u r e s s t i l l r e m a r k e d

w i t h r e g r e t t h e a b s e n c e f r o m t h e m o f a n y t h i n g r e l a t i n g

t o t h e s p i r i t - w o r l d . I d i s c o v e r e d t h a t t h e s a m e " m e d i u m , "

F o s t e r , w h o t w e n t y - f i v e y e a r s b e f o r e h a d m a d e a r i d i c u l o u s

fiasco in my house in Cincin nati, had afterwar ds con-

v e r t e d m u l t i t u d e s i n A u s t r a l i a . A f t e r h i s l e c t u r e s , s a i d

Justice Windeyer, he gave all who c ame up to him mes-

s a g e s f r o m t h e i r d e p a r t e d f r i e n d s , t h e r e c i p i e n t s b u r s t i n g

i n t o e x c l a m a t i o n s o f j o y a n d h a p p y t e a r s . Another very

l e a r n e d g e n t l e m a n , P r o f e s s o r J o h n S m i t h , w a s i n c l i n e d t o

credit the mar vels of Madame Blavatsky, an d made m e

p r o m i s e t o v i s i t h e r i n I n d i a a n d t e s t h e r p o w e r s .

I d e r i v e d f r o m m y e x p e r i e n c e s i n A u s t r a l i a a s u s p i c i o n

t h a t v e r a c i t y a f f e c t s b u t l i t t l e b e l i e f s i n v o l v i n g t h e i m -

mediate happ iness of the world . I f a n e r r o r i n c r e a s e s

what the mass of men deem their well-being and happi-

n e s s , n o d e m o n s t r a t i o n o f i t s e r r o n e o u s n e s s c a n d o m o r e

t h a n c a u s e i t t o c a s t a n o l d s k i n a n d s l i p i n t o a n o t h e r .

One of m y lectures in Sydney was on "The New Pro-

metheus, or the Martyrdom of Thought," in which I re-

l a t e d - t h e l e g e n d t h a t P r o m e t h e u s , i n o r d e r t o m a k e m a n

a t t e n d t o h i s p r e s e n t w o r l d , t o o k f r o m h i m f a i t h i n a f u t u r e

l i f e , a n d l e f t h i m o n l y t h e h o p e . B u t e v o l u t i o n h a s o v e r -

ruled Prometheus. T h e m a j o r i t y o f m a n k i n d f i n d t h a t l i f e

i s h a r d l y w o r t h a t t e n d i n g t o , o r e v e n w o r t h l i v i n g , u n l e s s

i t b e t h e v e s t i b u l e t o a w o r l d i n w h i c h t h e i r i d e a l s a r e

r e a l i z e d . H u m a n e v o l u t i o n , t h e r e f o r e , h a s t u r n e d t h e P r o -

m e t h e a n h o p e i n t o a f a i t h , a n d t h i s , t r u e o r n o t , w i l l c o n -

tinue under one form or another unless a new huma n

s p e c i e s i s f o r m e d .



CHAPTER VC o l o n i a l C h a u v i n i s m -K i n g G e o r g e ' s S o u n d -Weird coast nam es-Aus-

t r a l i a n a b o r i g i n e s - A n u n c i v i l i z a b l e m a i d e n - D a n g e r s o f f e d e r a t i o n -Krakatoan lava-V o l t a i r e a n d W e s l e y o n t h e . Lisbon earthquake .

TH E A u s t r a l i a n s c o u l d n e v e r f o r g i v e A n t h o n y T r o l l o p e

f o r c a l l i n g t h e m " a n a t i o n o f b l o w e r s . " T h e n o v e l i s t

s a i d a h u n d r e d g o o d t h i n g s o f t h e m , b u t h i s w h o l e p o t o f

o i n t m e n t w a s r u i n e d b y t h a t f l y . N o d o u b t i t w a s a h a s t y

g e n e r a l i z a t i o n o n h i s e x p e r i e n c e o f s o m e g e n t l e m a n w h o s e

l o y a l t y t o h i s c o l o n y a m o u n t e d t o l u n a c y . I m e t o n e s u c h

o n m y t r a v e l s . He had travelled around the world, and

f o u n d n o t h i n g o f a n y k i n d c o m p a r a b l e t o t h e c o r r e s p o n d -

i n g t h i n g i n A u s t r a l i a . H e h a d v i s i t e d e v e r y t h e a t r e i n

Europe, an d never seen an y ac tor who would be more

than tolerated on the Melbourne stage . He would not

deny that England con tained some fine people, but he

had not seen a gentleman in America . Nor had he seen

a w e l l - f o r m e d s h e e p o r c o w i n A m e r i c a . And so on . The

A u s t r a l i a n s w h o h e a r d a l l t h i s s a t o n t h e e n t h u s i a s m o f

t h e i r c o u n t r y m a n , a n d s n u b b e d h i m f i e r c e l y ; t h e y f e a r e d

I w o u l d 1 1 t r o l l o p " t h e i r w h o l e c o u n t r y o n h i s a c c o u n t , a n d

e x p l a i n e d h i m a w a y a s w e l l a s t h e y c o u l d . B u t I r e a s s u r e d

t h e m , b y r a t h e r t a k i n g t h e s i d e o f t h e f a n a t i c , a n d c i t -

i n g t h e o p i n i o n o f a p h i l o s o p h e r t h a t n o g r e a t e n t e r p r i s e

i s e v e r c o m p l e t e l y c a r r i e d o u t w i t h o u t i t s a s s u m i n g c e l e s -

t i a l p r o p o r t i o n s i n s o m e m i n d s . I t r e q u i r e s a d e g r e e o f

enthusiasm amounting to semi-c raz iness to cause a man

t o d o h i s w h o l e p a r t i n t h e d e v e l o p m e n t o f a c o l o n y . An

o l d f a r m e r , w h o h a d t o i l e d s i x t y y e a r s n e a r l i t t l e A b b o t s -



9 8 MY PILGRIMAGEb u r y i n E n g l a n d w i t h o u t l e a v i n g i t , w a s v i s i t e d w h e n

d y i n g b y t h e c l e r g y m a n , w h o s p o k e t o h i m o f t h e j o y s o f

heaven . " I t m a y b e a v e r y g o o d p l a c e , " s a i d t h e d y i n g

f a r m e r , " b u t f o r a c o n s t a n c y g i v e m e A b b o t s b u r y . "

Y e t o f t e n e r w a s I r e m i n d e d , e s p e c i a l l y i n t h e way s o

m a n y s p e a k o f E n g l a n d a s " h o m e , " t h a t w i t h a l l t h e i r

l o y a l t y t o A u s t r a l i a a m a j o r i t y o f t h e p e o p l e h a v e a s u b -

c o n s c i o u s f e e l i n g o f e x i l e . When our homeward-boun d

s h i p w a s a b o u t l e a v i n g M e l b o u r n e , l a r g e n u m b e r s c r o w d e d

t o t h e d e c k t o s e e u s o f f . T h e r e w e r e p a r t i n g s , a n d I

t h o u g h t I o b s e r v e d m o r e t e a r s s h e d b y t h o s e l e f t b e h i n d

t h a n b y t h o s e d e p a r t i n g . Somehow the m ultitude sug-

g e s t e d a v i s i o n o f s h a d e s o n e i t h e r s i d e o f t h e S t yx , s o m e

l o n g i n g f o r C h a r o n t o f e r r y t h e m o v e r t o E l y s i u m , t h e

E l y s i a n s l o n g i n g t o v o y a g e b a c k t o t h e u p p e r e a r t h .

W e s t o p p e d h a l f a d a y i n b e a u t i f u l A d e l a i d e , w h e r e I

w a s a b l e t o p a s s a f e w h a p p y h o u r s w i t h a f a m i l y o f d e a r

f r i e n d s I b a d k n o w n i n L o n d o n .

E a r l y i n t h e m o r n i n g w e a p p r o a c h e d t h e c o a s t o f W e s t

A u s t r a l i a , a n d a f o r b i d d i n g c o a s t i t i s - l o w , s a n d y , t r e e -

l e s s l a n d , b r e a k i n g u p a t l e n g t h i n t o p r o m o n t o r i e s a n d

i s l e t s o f s c a r r e d r o c k . Who could have been the bold

m a n w h o f i r s t f i x e d h i s a b o d e a t K i n g G e o r g e ' s S o u n d ?

I t w a s a m i d s u c h b l a n c h e d c r a g s t h a t M e p h i s t o p h e l e s a d -

v i s e d F a u s t t h a t t h e o l o g i a n s d i s p l a y e d l e s s w i s d o m t h a n

p e a s a n t s w h o c a l l e d s u c h p l a c e s a f t e r t h e d e v i l - D e v i l ' s

b r i d g e , D e v i l ' s p u n c h - b o w l , a n d t h e l i k e . They who

named these sea rocks guar ding King George's Sound

h a v e n o t g o n e t h e l e n g t h o f t h e M e p h i s t o p h e l i a n t h e o r y ,

b u t t h e y h a v e i n t e r p r e t e d t h e s t e r n c h a o s o f t h e c o a s t .

T h e f i r s t i s l a n d , a b l a c k r o c k , r e s e m b l e s a p a l l i d c o f -

f i n i n t h e d i s t a n c e , a n d i s n a m e d " C o f f i n I s l a n d . " F a r -

t h e r o n w e f i n d " F a l s e I s l a n d " and 1 1 M i s t a k e n I s l a n d . "



COAST NAMES 9 9

O n e n q u i r i n g o f s o m e o n e f a m i l i a r w i t h t h e c o a s t t h e

o r i g i n o f s o m e o f t h e n a m e s , h e d i d n o t k n o w , b u t s u g -

g e s t e d e x p l a n a t i o n s o f a d e p r e s s i n g c h a r a c t e r : " E c l i p s e

I s l a n d s " w e r e p r o b a b l y n a m e d a f t e r s o m e s h i p w r e c k e d

o n t h e m , a n d p e r h a p s 1 1 T w o P e o p l e ' s B a y " mar ked where

t w o p e o p l e p e r i s h e d . W h y m i g h t i t n o t b e t h a t t w o y o u n g

p e o p l e - l i k e t h e e l o p e d a n d f o r g i v e n y o u n g p e o p l e w h o s e

b o n e y m o o n b e g a n o n o u r s h i p - t h e r e f o u n d t h e i r p a r a -

d i s e ? U p R h o d e I s l a n d h a r b o u r t h e e a r l y m a r i n e r s s a i l e d

p a s t i s l a n d s n a m e d F a i t h , H o p e , a n d C h a r i t y , l a n d i n g a t

P r o v i d e n c e , w h e r e R o g e r W i l l i a m s h a d f o u n d e d t h e f i r s t

r e l i g i o u s l y f r e e a n d t o l e r a n t s t a t e e v e r k n o w n i n C h r i s t e n -

dom . But no Christian colony on our planet is now

b e n i g n e n o u g h t o s u g g e s t o p t i m i s t i c n a m e s ' f o r i t s h a r d

f e a t u r e s . T h e a b o r i g i n e s o f A u s t r a l i a , i f t h e y e v e r b e l i e v e d

i n a n y b e n e f i c e n t p o w e r s , h a v e l o s t t h e m u n d e r B r i t i s h

r u l e , a n d n o w b e l i e v e o n l y i n t h e e v i l o n e s . And the Eng-

l i s h n a v i g a t o r s f o l l o w e d t h e m i n t h e i r i n s t i n c t i v e p e s s i -

m i s m , a s w e f o l l o w t h e n a v i g a t o r s . N o n e o f u s l o o k s a t t h e

h a r d , u n f r i e n d l y c o a s t w i t h o u t f e e l i n g t h a t t h e t w o p e o p l e

never wen t to Two People' s Bay willin gly ; t h e y w e r e

d r o w n e d , o r p e r h a p s g i b b e t e d t h e r e . A n d y e t t h e r e w e r e

a t h o u s a n d p e o p l e d w e l l i n g a t A l b a n y w i l l i n g l y , n e s t l i n g

b e t w e e n t h e s e a a n d t h e r o c k h i l l s .

We entered Albany Harbour between an ugly Scylla

a n d a d i s m a l C h a r y b d i s , l i s t e n i n g t o a n a c c o u n t o f h o w t h e

C l y d e w a s w r e c k e d t h e r e . H a v i n g g o n e a s h o r e o n a l a u n c h ,

I c a u g h t s i g h t o f a n e w s p a p e r s i g n a n d p r o m p t l y e n t e r e d .

The editor of the "Albany Mail" was c ordial an d in-

t e l l i g e n t , a n d h i s f o u r w e e k l y p a g e s w e r e w e l l w o r t h t h e

s i x p e n c e t h e y c o s t . T h e p a p e r , s t a r t e d t h a t y e a r ( 1 8 8 3 ) ,

h a d c o l l e c t e d f a c t s a b o u t t h e s e t t l e m e n t . In 1826 a

r u m o u r r e a c h e d S yd n e y t h a t t h e F r e n c h i n t e n d e d t o o c c u p y



1 0 0 MY PILGRIMAGEK i n g G e o r g e ' s S o u n d , a n d a m i l i t a r y f o r c e w i t h a g a n g o f

c o n v i c t s w a s s e n t t o t a k e p o s s e s s i o n . The p a ni c about

t h e F r e n c h p r o v e d i d l e , t h e c o n v e r s i o n o f t h e n a t i v e s w a s

undertaken, and in 1834, though no clergyman could be

g o t t o g o , t h e p i o u s l a d i e s i n L o n d o n s e n t o u t t h e e v a n -

gelical clothing by which the p oor Australian s were

r a p i d l y k i l l e d o f f .

A l b a n y w a s d e l i g h t f u l l y p r i m i t i v e . The walls were

p l a c a r d e d w i t h n o t i c e s s i g n e d b y i t s t w o j u s t i c e s o f t h e

p e a c e , g i v i n g a l i s t o f n a m e s o f p e r s o n s ( E u r o p e a n s ) t o

w h o m i t i s f o r b i d d e n t o s e l l a l c o h o l i c d r i n k s . A l a w f o r -

b a d e s e l l i n g l i q u o r t o a b o r i g i n e s , o n l y a b o u t t w e n t y o fwhom. w e r e l e f t a t A l b a n y . I t w a s s a i d t h a t e i g h t y m i l e s

away there were five hundred . They ar e com mun ists,

t h o s e w h o e a r n a n y t h i n g f r o m t h e w h i t e s s h a r i n g i t w i t h

t h e r e s t .

I s a w a l o v e l y h a l f - c a s t e g i r l o f a b o u t t e n y e a r s i n t h e

v i l l a g e , b u t h a d t o g o a m i l e o u t t o f i n d o t h e r a b o r i g i n e s .

F i v e o r s i x o f u s w e n t , a n d t h e n a t i v e s w e r e e v i d e n t l y

expecting visitors from the ship . Twelve-l l p u r e

b l o o d e d - p r e s e n t e d t h e m s e l v e s , p e t i t i o n i n g f o r " bobs . "

They have that word for shillings, and I also observed

that their best talker in English dropped an d inserted

h e r " h " i n c o c k n e y s t y l e . T h e y w e r e a l l r e l a t e d t o e a c h

other, and were in trouble because one of their number

had been locked up for fourteen days . The prisoner's

w i f e w a l k e d i n p r o u d d i s t r e s s , a c o n s c i o u s o b j e c t o f c o m -

p a s s i o n . Finding that she spoke English fairly well, I

asked her what had been her husband's offence . « De-

serted his master," she an swered . " I t i s w r o n g , i t i s

w r o n g , " s a i d t h e o l d e s t o f t h e m e n .

T h e l a n g u a g e i n w h i c h t h o s e p e o p l e c o n v e r s e d w i t h e a c h

o t h e r w a s m u s i c a l , a n d t h e i r v o i c e s i n p l e a s a n t c o n t r a s t



ABORIGINAL " KISSES" 1 0 1

w i t h t h e i r g e n e r a l a p p e a r a n c e . They were darker tha n I

expected, though the men and two of the women had made

themselves like chromo- lithographs with ochre, which

t h e y c a l l e d " w i l g e e ." The women used it only on their

cheeks, but most of the men were smeared from head to

f o o t . Some one told me it was put on to keep away ver-

m i n , a n d I d i d o b s e r v e t h a t t h e p e c u l i a r l y p e r t i n a c i o u s

f l i e s o f A l b a n y d i d n o t a l i g h t o n t h e s e l i v i n g c h r o m o s s o

m u c h a s o n t h e r e s t o f u s . B u t t h e m o r e p r o b a b l e e x p l a -

n a t i o n i s t h e f i e r c e , f i e r y a p p e a r a n c e i t g a v e t h e m , m a k i n g

t h e m t e r r i b l e a n d d e m o n i a c t o t h e i r f o e s . That may be

t h e r e a s o n w h y t h e o c h r e i s m o s t l y u s e d b y t h e m e n .

T h e m e n w e r e p l e a s a n t t o t h e i r w o m e n , b u t i t w a s t o l d

me in the village that when a man was leaving home for

a hunt requirin g some weeks' absenc e he sometimes

w o u n d e d h i s w i f e w i t h a s p e a r s u f f i c i e n t l y t o m a k e s u r e

o f h e r r e m a i n i n g a t h o m e u n t i l h i s r e t u r n . On the bac k

o f e v e r y w o m a n ' s s h o u l d e r a r e g u l a r s e r i e s o f f i v e o r s i x

s c a r s , e a c h a b o u t t w o i n c h e s l o n g , e x c i t e d m y c u r i o s i t y ;

a " g i n " woman told me they were her lover's " ki s s e s . "

Such lacerations . a r e m a d e a t r e g u l a r i n t e r v a l s b y t h e

l o v e r u p t o t h e t i m e o f m a r r i a g e . " O n m y b r e a s t , t o o , "

she said, but that was carefully concealed by a kanga-

r o o s k i n . S h e t h e n p o i n t e d t o a j a g g e d f o u r - i n c h s c a r o n

the inside of her forear m an d said pr oudly, "When he

m a ke that I a m m a r r ied ." It is not easy to astonish

t h e s e a s t o n i s h i n g p e o p l e , b u t I m a n a g e d t o d o i t b y a s k -

ing the men to show me the corresponding c aresses

gashed on them . No such scar existed, of course, but

smiles were exchanged by the women . The most aged

o f t h e w o m e n b a d h e r f a c e a l s o s c a r r e d , w h i c h l o o k s a s i f

the earlier treatment of her sex might have been even

more severe .



1 0 2 MY PILGRIMAGEWe were shown their exerc ises with spear, waddy ,

and boomerang . The performan ces were most wonderful .

W i t h t h e i r t e n - f o o t f i n g e r - t h i c k s w i t c h o f a s p e a r t h e y

s t r u c k a s h i l l i n g o n a s t i c k f i f t y f e e t a w a y . The waddy, a

heavy yard-long inch-thick stick, was also thrown with

p r e c i s i o n . T h e h u r l i n g o f t h e b o o m e r a n g w a s a s b e a u t i f u l

as amazing. Thrown at a point near the ground twenty

y a r d s a h e a d , i t g r a d u a l l y r i s e s b e y o n d , a n d c u r v i n g u p -

ward a hundred feet, soars back an d alights behind the

t h r o w e r a t t h e d i s t a n c e h e d e s i r e s . The boomeran g re-

v o l v e s s w i f t l y o n i t s p a s s a g e t h r o u g h t h e a i r a n d h a s a

b e a u t i f u l f a l c o n - l i k e a p p e a r a n c e . I was never weary of

w a t c h i n g t h i s m a r v e l o f s a v a g e s k i l l a n d s t r e n g t h , a n d

they were delighted with h l y a d m i r a t i o n , e s p e c i a l l y s o

l o n g a s i t w a s r e p r e s e n t e d i n s h i l l i n g s . I purcha sed the

b e s t b o o m e r a n g , t h o u g h t h e o w n e r w a s r e l u c t a n t t o s e l l i t .

But nobody believes in the boomera ng mir acle who has

n o t s e e n i t .

A n a m a t e u r p h o t o g r a p h e r w a s w i t h u s , a n d t h e n a t i v e s

w e r e a l l g l a d t o b e p h o t o g r a p h e d , t h e i r c h i e f r e m a r k i n g ,

"When I go into the ground I will still live in that

p i c t u r e . "

T h e y a l l w o r e g a r m e n t s o f k a n g a r o o s k i n , t h o s e o f t h e

men falling behind and leaving them in front naked

except for the groin cloth . The women were thic kly

wrap ped from below the shoulder to the knee . Neither

s e x h a d s t o u t l e g s . T h e f e e t o f t h e w o m e n w e r e d e l i c a t e

a n d s h a p e l y . T h e g r o u p p r e s e n t e d a p a t h e t i c a p p e a r a n c e ,

and it was p ain ful to observe the repugna nc e of the

A u s t r a l i a n w h i t e s g e n e r a l l y r e g a r d i n g t h e m . Were it not

f o r t h e f i l t h y s k i n s a n d b l a n k e t s o n w h i c h t h e B r i t i s h

p r u d e s i n s i s t , t h e y w o u l d b y n o m e a n s b e r e p u l s i v e . They

p o s s e s s c o n s i d e r a b l e i n t e l l i g e n c e a n d h u m o u r . One need



AN UNCIVILIZABLE MAIDEN 1 0 3

o n l y r e a d B r o u g h S m i t h ' s b o o k o n t h e A u s t r a l i a n a b o r i -

g i n e s t o r e c o g n i z e t h e r e m a r k a b l e c h a r a c t e r o f t h e i r

l e g e n d s a n d f o l k- l o r e . W e p a i d t h e m w e l l f o r e n t e r t a i n -

m e n t , b u t f o r w h i c h o u r h a l f d a y i n A l b a n y w o u l d h a v e

b e e n d u l l , a n d l e f t t h e m s q u a t t i n g i n a r o w , b a c k s t o

f e n c e , e a c h w i t h h i s a n d h e r c l a y p i p e .

T h e y c a s t n o e n v i o u s l o o k s t o w a r d s u s , t h e s e s u r v i v o r s

o f a d y i n g r a c e . R e p e a t e d l y h a s t h e e x p e r i m e n t o f s u r -

rounding them with " c i v i l i z a t i o n " been tried . Mr.

K n i g h t , t h e c o m m i s s i o n e r a t A l b a n y , a n d M r s . K n i g h t ,

t o o k i n t o t h e i r h o m e a n e x c e p t i o n a l l y b r i g h t a n d p r e t t y

n a t i v e g i r l , c h r i s t e n e d h e r M a r y C a m e r o n , t a u g h t h e r t o

r e a d , w r i t e , a n d p l a y t h e p i a n o . I t w a s h o p e d s h e w o u l d

d o s o m e t h i n g f o r t h e a b o r i g i n e s , a n d a s c h o o l h o u s e , I

b e l i e v e , w a s b u i l t f o r h e r t o t e a c h i n . But soon Mary

w a s f o u n d w i t h h e r c i v i l i z e d c l o t h i n g c a s t o f f , f a r a w a y

i n a c a v e b e s i d e a s t r e a m , e n j o y i n g a f e a s t o f r a w c r a b s

a n d l i z a r d s . S h e s t o u t l y r e f u s e d t o r e t u r n t o " c i v i l i z a t i o n , "

f r o m w h i c h s h e r e t a i n e d o n l y o n e t h i n g , a p a s s i o n f o r

r e a d i n g n o v e l s . H e r d i s c o v e r e r s g a v e h e r s o m e b l a n k e t s

a n d n o v e l s , a n d l e f t h e r t o h e r c a v e a n d f r e e d o m . P e r -

h a p s t h e r e w a s t o o m u c h c a t e c h i s m a n d t o o m u c h b r i m -

s t o n e i n t h e " c i v i l i z e d " r e g i m e , a n d s h e m a y h a v e b e e n

s a v i n g h e r s o u l f r o m a f a l s e G o d .

W h a t a d i s t a n c e s t r e t c h e s f r o m t h e s e h a g g a r d s h r e d s

o f a w i l d t r i b e t o t h e h a n d s o m e A n g l o - A u s t r a l i a n s b e f o r e

w h o m t h e y m e l t a w a y ! B u t h o w w i l l t h e d e s c e n d a n t s o f

t h e s e l a s t a p p e a r t o t h e t r a v e l l e r o f t h e f a r f u t u r e ? The

e v o l u t i o n a r y f o r c e s t h a t p r o d u c e d t h e a b o r i g i n e s d o n o t

a l t o g e t h e r c e a s e t o w o r k .

On the evening when our ship left King George's

S o u n d , w h i l e w e s a t a t d i n n e r , a n E n g l i s h j o u r n a l i s t

h u m o r o u s l y i n v i t e d m e a l o u d t o d r i n k a g l a s s o f c h a m -



1 04 MY PILGRIMAGEp a g n e w i t h h i m i n f e l i c i t a t i o n o n o u r l e a v i n g A u s t r a l i a .

T h e j e s t w a s n o t l i k e d , a n d I d i d n o t r e s p o n d e v e n m e r r i l y .

T h e A u s t r a l i a n s c o u l d n o t q u i t e l i k e D a r w i n b e c a u s e h e

e x p r e s s e d t h e l i t t l e r e g r e t h e f e l t o n l e a v i n g A u s t r a l i a

n e a r l y f i f t y y e a r s b e f o r e .

T h e j o u r n a l i s t h a d p r o b a b l y s u f f e r e d i n t h e p o o r h o t e l s ,

t h e d u l l c h u r c h e s , a n d t h e r e m o r s e l e s s S a b b a t h s . I bad

e n j o y e d l a v i s h h o s p i t a l i t i e s , c h a r m i n g c o m p a n i e s , a n d t h e

s o c i e t y o f s o m e o f t h e m o s t i n t e l l e c t u a l m e n I e v e r m e t .

B u t I l e f t A u s t r a l i a w i t h a f e e l i n g t h a t I h a d s e e n i t a t

i t s b e s t , a n d t h a t t h e t e n d e n c i e s w e r e i n a d i r e c t i o n o f r e t r o -

g r e s s i o n . Many of the best people were already looking

f o r w a r d w i t h f a v o u r t o t h a t f e d e r a t i o n o f t h e c o l o n i e s

w h i c h h a s s i n c e b e e n a c h i e v e d , a n d w h i c h I f e l t w o u l d b e

a s a d v e r s e t o i n t e l l e c t u a l a n d m o r a l d e v e l o p m e n t a s t h e

u n i o n o f S c o t t i s h c h u r c h e s h a d b e e n t o t h e l i b e r a l i s m o f

such m en a s Charles Strong an d Bishop Moorhouse . I

W h e r e e i t h e r i n d i v i d u a l s o r s t a t e s a r e f e t t e r e d t o g e t h e r ,

t h e i r m o v e m e n t m u s t b e t h a t o f t h e s l o w e s t ; a n d t h e s l o w -

e s t i s a p t t o b e t h e c o l l e a g u e t h a t r e f u s e s t o m o v e a t a l l ,

u n l e s s b a c k w a r d . T h e m o r e f r e e i n d i v i d u a l s , w h e t h e r m e n

or communities, the more chances for those variations

f r o m w h i c h h i g h e r f o r m s a r e d e v e l o p e d . T h e o l d s h o u t o f

i T h e d a y b e f o r e I s a i l e d ' f o r I n d i a I d i n e d a t t h e h o u s e o f R e v . C h a r l e s

S t r o n g w i t h o u r f r i e n d R . J . J e f f r a y . S t r o n g h a d r e s i g n e d h i s p u l p i t a n d

l o o k e d l i k e a D a n i e l r e s c u e d f r o m t h e l i o n s ' d e n . I n A p r i l , 1 8 8 4 , w h e n h e

w a s a t B a l f u r m i n g , I l e l e n s b u r g , S c o t l a n d , I r e c e i v e d a n o t e f r o m h i m i n

w h i c h h e s a i d , " I w a s d e l i v e r i n g a s h o r t l e c t u r e l a s t n i g h t o n A u s t r a l i a .

S t r a n g e a n d h o r r i b l e t o s a y , a y o u n g l a d y w h o w a s p l a y i n g t h e h a r m o n i u m

o n t h e o c c a s i o n t o o k f i r e , h e r d r e s s h a v i n g c o m e i n c o n t a c t w i t h o n e o f t h e

f o o t l i g h t s . W h a t a s c e n e ! L u c k i l y t h e f i r e w a s g o t o u t , b u t h e r a r m s

w e r e b a d l y b u r n t . W h a t i n t e r p r e t a t i o n m i g h t n o t t h e M e l b o u r n e P r e s b y -

t e r y p l a c e u p o n t h i s ! "Mr. S t r o n g r e t u r n e d t o M e l b o u r n e , w h e r e a n i n d e p e n d e n t c h u r c h w a s

e r e c t e d f o r h i m .



KRAKATOA LAVA 1 0 5

" L i b e r t y a n d U n i o n , o n e a n d i n s e p a r a b l e , " h a s a f i n e

s o u n d , b u t s o h a s t h e p r o p h e c y o f t h e l i o n a n d t h e l a m b

l y i n g d o w n t o g e t h e r . T h e l a m b w i l l b e i n s i d e t h e l i o n , a n d

L i b e r t y b e d e v o u r e d b y o v e r - c e n t r a l i z a t i o n .

O n o u r v o y a g e t o w a r d s C e y l o n o u r s h i p s a i l e d a w h o l e

d a y t h r o u g h t h i c k m a s s e s o f f l o a t i n g l a v a , w h i c h r a t t l e d

p e r p e t u a l l y a g a i n s t t h e h u l l . Now and then we passed

f l o a t i n g p a l m - t r e e s w h i c h h a d b e e n h u r l e d a n d t h e n p e r -

h a p s d r i f t e d u n t i l t h e y w e r e a v a s t d i s t a n c e f r o m K r a -

k a t o a , w h e r e t h e y w e r e u p r o o t e d . T h e i r l e a v e s w e r e s t i l l

g r e e n , a n d o n t h e m p e r c h e d m a n y d i f f e r e n t b i r d s . Wep a s s e d w i t h i n a f e w y a r d s o f o n e o f t h o s e p a l m s . I t s

t r u n k w a s c o m p l e t e l y c o v e r e d b y s e a - b i r d s o f a l l s i z e s a n d

v a r i e t i e s . S i d e b y s i d e t h e y s t o o d i n a r o w , m o t i o n l e s s ,

s i l e n t , p e a c e f u l , b u t a l l l o o k e d d i s c o n s o l a t e. They were

n o t d i s t u r b e d b y o u r s h i p o r o u r s h o u t s .

Enough of the lava was drawn up from the sea in

b u c k e t s f o r a l l o f u s t o c a r r y a w a y s o u v e n i r s o f t h a t

B a t a v i a n e v e n t w h i c h , h a d K r a k a t o a b e e n u n d e r c o n t r o l

o f a n y p u r p o s i n g P o w e r , s h o u l d h a v e r e n e w e d i n e v e r y

h e a r t t h e d e f i a n c e o f P r o m e t h e u s . H o w m a n y o f u s m i g h t

h a v e f o u n d i n o u r h a n d f u l o f l a v a a s y m b o l o f t h e f r a g -

m e n t s o f v o l c a n i c t h e o l o g y h i d d e n i n t h e b r a i n o f t h e

m o s t r a t i o n a l i s t i c ?

I n t h e m i d d l e o f t h e e i g h t e e n t h c e n t u r y t w o m e n d i v i d e d

t h e r e l i g i o u s a t t e n t i o n o f E u r o p e - V o l t a i r e a n d J o h n

Wesley . V o l t a i r e w a s a l i o n i n L o n d o n a m o n g t h e a r i s -

t o c r a t s a t t h e v e r y t i m e W e s l e y w a s o r d a i n e d a d e a c o n ;

a n d t h i r t y y e a r s l a t e r t h e t w o m e n r e s p e c t i v e l y r e p r e -

s e n t e d t o " s a l va t i o n i s t s " o f t h e t i m e C h r i s t a n d A n t i -

C h r i s t . While these two men were prom oting each a

r e v i v a l o f h i s o w n k i n d i n E u r o p e , t h e g r e a t L i s b o n e a r t h -

quake occurred, when men, women, and children were



1 0 6 MY PI LGRIMAGE

d e s t r o y e d l i k e f l i e s . B o t h i s s u e d p a m p h l e t s u p o n i t . V o l -

t a i r e i n v i t e d t h e t h e o l o g i a n s t o s t a n d w i t h h i m b e s i d e

t h a t v a s t g r a v e i n w h i c h i n n o c e n t p e o p l e w e r e b u r i e d

a l i v e , a n d s a y w h e t h e r i t w e r e t h e w o r k o f a p r o v i d e n c e

w h o m m e n o u g h t t o w o r s h i p . W e s l e y s u m m o n e d t h e

w o r l d t o w i t n e s s t h e j u dg m e n t o f J e h o v a h u p o n a r e g i o n

w h e r e t h e I n q u i s i t i o n h a d f l o u r i s h e d , a n d a d d e d a n a c c o u n t

o f a l a n d s l i d e a t W h i s t o n C l i f f s , w h i c h , t h o u g h i t h u r t

n o b o d y , w a s m e a n t a s a s i g n o f w h a t G o d c o u l d d o i f h e

w i s h e d .

I n N e w E n g l a n d T h o r e a u t h o u g h t t h a t A t h e i s m m u s t

b e c o m p a r a t i v e l y p o p u l a r w i t h G o d h i m s e l f . N o d o u b t

a n y r e s p e c t a b l e d e i t y w o u l d r a th e r h a v e o n h i s s i d e o n e

V o l t a i r e t h a n m i l l i o n s o f " l a r r i k i n " d e v o t e e s . B u t n e v e r -

t h e l e s s , s o l o n g a s t h e C o l l e c t i v i s t d e i t y h a s t o b e a r t h e

b u r d e n o f t h e v o l ca n o a n d t h e a g o n i e s o f t h e w o r l d , a nd

s u f f e r t h e p a t r o n a g e o f b r a i n l e s s m a s s e s , t h e o r t h o do x

h a v e a g o o d c h a n c e o f m a k i n g t h e w o r l d a s d e p r a v e d a n d

m i s e r a b l e a s t h e i r c r e e d s d e c l a r e i t . T h e g o s p e l o f l a v a -o f f i r e a n d b r i m s t o n e , e s p e c i a l l y f o r t h e V o l t a i r e a n s - i s

v o m i t e d s t i l l f r o m t h o u s a n d s o f p u l p i t s , a n d w e r a t i o n a l -

i s t s a r e s o m e w h a t l i k e t h e d i s co n s o l a t e b i r d s o n t h e i r

f l o a t i n g p a l m - t r e e .

B u t w h a t a b o u t e v e n o u r p a l m ? I t l o o ks g r e e n e n o u g h

w h i l e w e a r e s i t t i n g o n i t , b u t a f t e r a l l i t i s u p r o o t e d , a n d

w e m u s t s e e k s o m e o t h e r a r k . V o l t a i r e , t h o u g h h i s f a i t h

i n p r o v i d e n c e p e r i s h e d i n t h e L i s b o n e a r t h q u a k e , h e l d o n

a p p a r e n t l y t o s o m e g h o s t o f d e i t y ; b u t a d e i t y p r a c t i c a l l y

u s e f u l o n l y s o f a r a s c h u r c h e s m a k e h i m s o h a s d i s a p -

p e a r e d f r o m u n b i a s s e d p h i l o s o p h y .

A s I w r i t e o u t t h e s e n o t e s ( M a y , 1 9 0 2 ) i n N e w Y o r k , a

v o l c a n o i s d e v a s t a t i n g M a r t i n i q u e . B y s o m e u n e x p l a i n e d

c o i n ci d e n c e t h a t v o l c a no b e a r s t h e n a m e o f t h e t e r r i b l e



CONFESSED DELUSIONS 1 0 7

H a w a i i a n g o d d e s s , " La Pelee . " I t i s , h o w e v e r , n o t a b l e

t h a t n o v o i c e i m p o r t a n t e n o u g h t o b e h e a r d i s p r o c l a i m i n g

w i t h J o h n W e s l e y t h a t t h e s e d i s a s t e r s a r e t h e j u d g m e n t

o f J e h o v a h . N a y , t h e d e s t r u c t i o n o c c u r s s i m u l t a n e o u s l y

w i t h t h e b e g i n n i n g o f a r e t r e a t b y t h e G e n e r a l A s s e m b l y

o f t h e P r e s b y t e r i a n C h u r c h i n A m e r i c a f r o m d o g m a s t h a t

g r e w o u t o f j u s t s u c h d e s t r u c t i v e c o u r s e s o f n a t u r e . I t

w a s t h e d e s t r u c t i v e f o r c e s o f n a t u r e t h a t p r o c l a i m e d a g o d

o f w r a t h , a n d t h e i n d i s c r i m i n a t e n e s s o f s u c h d e s t r u c t i o n

- n o t e v e n b a b e s a n d h e l p l e s s a n i m a l s b e i n g s p a r e d -w h i c h p r o c l a i m e d a c u r s e o n t h e e a r t h a n d o n m a n k i n d .

T h e o l d W e s t m i n s t e r C r e e d i s n o w t u r n e d i n t o a l i t e r a l

" c o n f e s s i o n . " I t i s c o n f e s s e d t h a t f o r m a n y g e n e r a t i o n s

a g r e a t c h u r c h h a s b e e n i m p o s i n g o n m a n k i n d a s d i v i n e

t r u t h a g r i e v o u s e r r o r . T h e p h y s i c a l s u f f e r i n g s o f t h e

t w o f i n e s t s c h o l a r s i n G e n e v a s l a i n b y C a l v i n , o f t h e

C a t h o l i c v i c t i m s s a c r i f i c e d i n I r e l a n d b y C r o m w e l l , a n d

t h e v i c t i m s o f P u r i t a n i s m i n A m e r i c a a r e s l i g h t c o m -

par ed with the inward tortures of human hear ts, the

p a r e n t s w e e p i n g f o r t h e p o s s i b l e d a m n a t i o n o f t h e i r b a b e s ,

t h e r u i n o f h a p p i n e s s f o r m a n y m i l l i o n s t e r r o r i z e d f o r

c e n t u r i e s b y d o g m a s n o w c o n f e s s e d t o b e d e l u s i o n s .



CHAPTER VI

C e y l o n-P l a i n l i v i n g a n d h i g h t h i n k i n g -T a l k s w i t h t h e B u d d h i s t P e r e r a-O r i g i n o f W h i t t i n g t o n ' s c a t - " R o d y a s " - A Si n h a l e s e l a w c o u r t -J u d g e A r u n i ch a l a m a n d h i s w i f e a t K a t t u r a -A r a m b l e w i t h S i n h a l e s e

g e n t l e m e n - M y Bu d d h i s t p l e a f o r a s u f f e r i n g s n a k e -H i n d u s h r i n e s

i n B u dd h i s t t e m p l e s - T h e l e a r n e d p r i e s t S u b h u t i - S i n h a l e s e h o m e s -A M o s l e m o n H e b e r ' s v e r s e a b o u t C e y l o n - T e m p l e a t % h a n d y - A

M o s l e m s e r m o n - K e l l a n i a - B u d d h i s t f o l k - t a l e s - " M e r i t s " - N i r -

v a n a - M y C h r i s t m a s l e c t u r e a t C o l o m b o -H i g h p r i e s t o f A d a m ' s P e a k- o n f e r e n c e s w i t h B u d d h i s t s i n t h e i r c o l l e g e - A n u n p u b l i s h e d P i t a k a

- " C o ve t o u s n e s s " - O f a c t i o n s a t o n c e r i g h t a n d s i n f u l -T h e e x t i n c t

o r d e r o f f e m a l e p r i e s t s - E n g l i s h m a s q u e r a d e r s-B i s h o p M d l va i n e a n d

B i s h o p T e m p l e .ON a war m summ er day, in the middle of December,

v o y a g i n g o n a s e a o f g l a s s , I b e h e l d a s e e m i n g l o n g

white cloud low on the horizon . It was Ceylon, -the

land of my dreams . Poor Colum bus ! You who saw a

cloud that turned into America , and were welcomed by

g e n t l e n a t i v e s , - u n a r m e d B u d d h i s t s i n t h e i r p e a c e f u l n e s s ,

- how pitiable you ap pear ! " They knew not the use of

w e a p o n s , a n d c u t t h e i r h a n d s i n h a n d l i n g o u r s w o r d s ; t h e y

k n o w n o e v i l ; what a pity they must be damned because

t h e y k n o w n o t J e s u s ! " S o w r o t e t h e d i s c o v e r e r w h o , d i s -

a p p o i n t e d i n n o t f i n d i n g t h e l a n d o f g o l d , b e t h o u g h t h i m

of transformin g the gentle natives into gold and into

C h r i s t i a n s . Four centuries have pa ssed and Christendom

i s s i n g i n g o f t h e v i l e n e s s o f t h e S i n h a l e s e , t h e m o s t i n n o -

c e n t p e o p l e o n t h e f a c e o f t h e e a r t h !

It was a new world I was entering . I h a d s t u d i e d t h e

S i n h a l e s e B u d d h a a n d B u d d h i s t s , a n d k n e w I w a s l e a v i n g

b e h i n d A n g l o - S a x o n i s m , - c r u e l , a m b i t i o u s , c a n t i n g , a g -



UNWORLDLINESS OF BUDDHISTS 109

g r e s s i v e , - t o m i n g l e w i t h p e o p l e w h o k n e w " t h e b l e s s e d -

n e s s o f b e i n g l i t t l e . " H e r e a t l a s t w a s a c o u n t r y w i t h o u t

a n y r e v o l u t i o n a r y p a r t y . They were free to think and

f e e l a n d d r e a m , t o f i n d h a p p i n e s s i n m a k i n g t h e i r w i v e s

a n d c h i l d r e n h a p p y , a n d i n s h a r i n g t h e t h o u g h t s o f t h e

w o r l d ' s t e a c h e r s .

B u t I w a s t o o s o p h i s t i c a t e d t o a d a p t m y m i n d a t o n c e

t o t h e e x t r e m e u n w o r l d l i n e s s o f t h e . B u d d h i s t s . T o f i n d

p h i l o s o p h e r s l i v i n g i n t h a t c h e d c o t t a g e s w i t h e a r t h e n f l o o r s

w a s a n a s t o n i s h m e n t . S i t t i n g w i t h o n e s u c h m a n , t a l k i n g

o f E m e r s o n a n d C a r l y l e a n d M a x M u l l e r , -e k n e w t h e i r

w o r k s b y h e a r t , - I c o u l d n o t f o r b e a r c o n t r a s t i n g t h e

a b o d e o f e v e n w e l l - t o - d o B u d d h i s t s w i t h t h e v i l l a s o f t h e i r

English and Hindu neighbours . We were not far from

t h e g o v e r n o r ' s p a l a c e s , a n d h e p o i n t e d t o a m o u n t e d e s c o r t

e n t e r i n g t h e p a l a c e c o u r t o n p r a n c i n g s t e e d s . H e s a i d ,

" W o u l d y o u l i k e t o b e i n t h e p l a c e o f t h a t c a p t a i n w i t h

h i s r e d c o a t , h i g h c a p , a n d s t e e d ? " "No," I answered .

" W e l l , t h a t i s t h e w a y w e l o o k u p o n t h e s e p l a n t e r s a n d

o f f i c i a l s a n d t h e i r f i n e h o u s e s . T h e y d o n o t a p p e a l t o u s

i n t h e l e a s t . W e a r e g l a d t o b e q u i t e o u t o f t h e i r s p h e r e .

W e h a v e g o o d f o o d , g o o d w i v e s ; w e l o v e t o s e e o u r c h i l r

d r e n , a s y o u s e e , n e a r l y n a k e d , p l a y i n g o n t h e g r a s s ; a n d

t o r e a d , t h i n k , c o n v e r s e o n g r e a t s u b j e c t s , a n d a r e c o n t e n t

t o l e t t h e w o r l d g o p r a n c i n g o n i t s w a y w h i l e w e g o o n

o u r s . "

Mr. P e r e r a , a h i g h l y e d u c a t e d B u d d h i s t , t o l d m e t h a t

t h e s t o r y o f s o m e E n g l i s h a u t h o r i t i e s o f B u d d h a ' s b i r t h

f r o m a v i r g i n i s u n k n o w n i n C e y l o n . B u d d h a ' s m o t h e r ,

M a i a , d i e d s o m e d a y s a f t e r B u d d h a ' s d e a t h , a n d i n p o p u -

l a r b e l i e f s h e w a s b o r n a m a l e g o d . M y e x p r e s s e d h o p e

t h a t B u d d h a ' s f a t h e r h a d b e c o m e a g o d d e s s a m u s e d h i m .

T h e g r e a t B u d d h a t r e e a t K e l l a n i a , b e l i e v e d t o h a v e b e e n



1 1 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

p a r t o f t h e o r i g i n a l B o - t r e e i n I n d i a , i s s a i d t o h a v e b e e n

b r o u g h t t h e n c e b y a q u e e n l y p r i e s t e s s .

Mr. P e r e r a a l s o g a v e m e s o m e s p e c i m e n s o f t h e d o m e s -

t i c f o r m t a k e n b y t h e B u d d h a g o s h a p a r a b l e s . I n i l l u s t r a -

tion of the effects of bad company Buddha once related

t h a t a c e r t a i n k i n g h a d e v e r y t h i n g p e r f e c t a r o u n d h i m , -h i s w i f e w a s t h e b e s t , h i s h o r s e t h e b e s t , a n d b e e s p e c i a l l y

p r i d e d h i m s e l f o n h a v i n g t h e f i n e s t e l e p h a n t i n t h e w o r l d .

B u t t h i s e l e p h a n t w e n t m a d . Great doctors were sum-

m o n e d , b u t n o n e c o u l d c u r e h i m . The elephant-keeper,

q u e s t i o n e d s h a r p l y , s a i d : " O n e n i g h t w i l d a n i m a l s i n

t h e j u n g l e n e a r b y t a l k i n g t o g e t h e r s a i d , ' This would have

b e e n t h e k i n g o f e l e p h a n t s ; h e r e h e i s a p r i s o n e r c h a i n e d

u p ; we who live in freedom in the jungle are far hap-

p i e r . ' T h e e l e p h a n t h e a r d t h i s a n d i t m a d e h i m w i l d a n d

m a d . B u t t h e p r i e s t s c a m e a n d p r e a c h e d t o t h e e l e p h a n t

h i g h m o r a l i t y , h o w t o d o g o o d , a n d t h e d a n g e r s o f h e l l .

S o t h e e l e p h a n t w a s c u r e d a n d t h e B u d d h i s t p r o v e r b

a r o s e , ' Even the wild beasts may be converted by good

c o m p a n y . " '

M y f r i e n d w a s a l o v i n g r e a d e r o f E m e r s o n , b u t c o u l d n o t

a t a l l f e e l t h e i n t e r e s t o f o u r p h i l o s o p h e r i n i m m o r t a l i t y.

I n d e e d h e s a i d t h a t h e t h o u g h t a b e l i e f t h a t d e a t h w a s

e n t i r e e x t i n c t i o n w o u l d b e t o t h e v a s t m a j o r i t y o f t h e

human race glad tidings . What he said on this matter

reminded me of Shakespeare's thoughts as expressed by

H a m l e t a n d a l s o b y t h e c o n d e m n e d y o u t h i n " M e a s u r e

f o r M e a s u r e . " T h e h u m b l e m i l l i o n s o f t h e w o r l d f e a r

d e a t h l a r g e l y b e c a u s e t h e y h a v e b e e n t e r r i f i e d b y n o t i o n s

o f t o r m e n t a f t e r d e a t h , o r o f i n t e r m i n a b l e j o u r n e y i n g s

t h r o u g h v i l e f o r m s .

I t s e e m s t h a t t h e r e i s a s o r t o f p o p u l a r b e l i e f t h a t

t h e l o w e r a n i m a l s a r e i m m o r t a l . T h e s u f f e r i n g s o f a n i m a l s



THE RODYAS 1 1 1

w h i c h s o t r o u b l e d t h e - f a i t h o f S a r a h F l o w e r A d a m s , t h e

w r i t e r o f " Nearer, My God, to Thee," and of Sir Henry

T a y l o r , a n d F r a n c e s P o w e r C o b b e , w h o c o u l d c o n c e i v e

of no future redress or moral benefit for animals, is

escaped by the Buddhists, who look upon these inferior

f o r m s a s t h e i r h u m b l e s p i r i t u a l a n c e s t o r s a n d p o o r

r e l a t i o n s . T h e f a m i l i a r L o n d o n f o l k - t a l e o f W h i t t i n g t o n

a n d h i s C a t , w h i c h I o n c e t r a c e d t h r o u g h m a n y p a r t s o f

t h e w o r l d , o r i g i n a t e d i n a B u d d h i s t p a r a b l e w h o s e m o r a l

w a s t h e b a s e i n g r a t i t u d e o f m a n t o t h e a n i m a l s t h a t

befriended him . The cat, having ingeniously made the

fortune of a poor peasant, is cast aside to perish in

w r e t c h e d n e s s . This lesson against ingratitude faintly

r e a p p e a r s i n t h e e a r l y v e r s i o n s o f " Puss in Boots," but

h a s e n t i r e l y d i s a p p e a r e d i n t h e s t o r y o f W h i t t i n g t o n , i n

w h i c h t h e c a t i s s u p p l a n t e d b y t h e P r o v i d e n c e w h i c h

watches over the speculations of the pi ous and loyal

B r i t i s h m e r c h a n t .

S o m e r e l i c s o f t r i b e s a r e f o u n d i n I n d i a w h o s e p a s s i v e

and unprogressive character was probably derived from

a g e s o f s u b j u g a t i o n . T h e r a i d o f J o h n B r o w n i n V i r g i n i a

was enough to prove that in the evolution of a docile

s l a v e t h e o l d i n s u r r e c t i o n a r y e l e m e n t s t h a t h a d p r o d u c e d

such leaders as Toussaint l'Ouverture and Nat Turner

h a d l o n g b e e n t r a m p l e d o u t o f t h e n e g r o r a c e i n A m e r i c a .

I t w a s n o d o u b t s o w i t h t h e t a c i t u r n T a m i l s i n C e y l o n ,

a n d t r a c e a b l y s o i n t h e " R o d y a s , " w h o h a v e t h e i r l e g e n d ,

a c c o r d i n g t o w h i c h a n o f f e n c e a g a i n s t s o m e h a l f - m y t h i c a l

monarch by his "nobles " l e d t o a d e c r e e i s o l a t i n g t h e m ,

a n d t h e i r d e s c e n d a n t s h a d b e c o m e a s e p a r a t e t r i b e . T h e i r

w o m e n w e r e f o r b i d d e n t o w e a r c l o t h i n g a b o v e t h e w a i s t ,

a n d t h e m e n b a d s o m e s i m i l a r d i s q u a l i f i c a t i o n w h i c h

k e p t t h e m f r o m m i n g l i n g w i t h p e o p l e i n c i t i e s. Two



1 1 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

Americans accompanied me to the forest of the Rodyas,

and when we saw the men with long knives sheathed in

t h e i r l o i n c l o t h w e f e l t a s i f w e h a d s t r a y e d b e y o n d t h e

l i n e o f s a f e t y . B u t t h e k n i v e s w e r e r e l i c s f a l l i n g t o a

h a r m l e s s g e n e r a t i o n . T h e w o m e n h a d c u l t i v a t e d l o n g h a i r ,

a n d w h e n w e p a s s e d c o v e r e d t h e i r b r e a s t s w i t h i t , G o d i v a r

l i k e . O n e o f t h e s e h e l d i n h e r a r m s a v e r y b e a u t i f u l b a b y ,

into whose hand I put a coin . The mother smiled, and

s a i d s o m e t h i n g t o h e r h u s b a n d . He advanced and walked

with us to a house where there was a person who con-

v e r s e d w i t h u s p l e a s a n t l y i n E n g l i s h .

I made an excursion to Kattura . A law court was in

s e s s i o n t h e r e , a n d t h e p r o c e e d i n g s w e r e m o s t l y i n E n g l i s h ,

t h e c a s e b e i n g b e t w e e n a n a t i v e a n d a n E n g l i s h m a n . T h e

chief lawyer was a fine-looking Sinhalese gentleman,

w h o s e g o l d e n t i n t w a s o c c a s i o n a l l y r e v e a l e d b y a g e s t u r e .

T h e y o u n g j u d g e h a d a n a t t r a c t i v e f a c e w h i c h I h a d

s o m e w h e r e s e e n b e f o r e , a n d h e s e n t d o w n a n o t e f r o m t h e

b e n c h r e q u e s t i n g m e t o r e m a i n n e a r b y , a s h e h a d k n o w n

m e a t C a m b r i d g e , E n g la n d . J u d g e A r u n a ch a l a m w a s a n

u n d e r g r a d u a t e a t C a m b r i d g e a t t h e t i m e o f m y S u n d a y

e v e n i n g l e c t u r e s t h e r e , w h i c h b e h a d h e a r d . H e a l s o p o s -

s e s s e d s e v e r a l o f m y b o o k s a n d s y m p a t h iz e d w i t h m y

r e l i g i o u s v i e w s . He insisted on my visiting him in his -

h o u s e , a n d a s t h e c o u r t w a s n o t t o b e r e s u m e d f o r t h r e e o r

f o u r d a y s , s a i d i t w o u l d b e - a p l e a s u r e t o h i m t o g o w i t h

m e t h r o u g h t h e n e i g h b o u r h o o d . T h e o p p o r t u n i t y w a s

w e l c o m e d . The- judge (Hindu) had recently married a

S i n h a l e s e l a d y , a n d t h e y r e s i d e d i n a b e a u t i f u l v i l l a . His

y o u n g w i f e b a d a n E n g l i s h g o v e r n e s s , a n d w a s a s s i d u o u s

i n h e r s t u d i e s . O n e o f h e r f a v o u r i t e b o o k s w a s m y " S a c r e d

Anthology," and when her husband took me to his house

a n d w e n t o f f t o i n f o r m h e r t h a t h e h a d b r o u g h t a g u e s t ,



A SINHALESE LADY 1 1 3

h e p r e s e n t l y r e t u r n e d w i t h t h e p l e a s i n g i n f o r m a t i o n t h a t

h i s w i f e w o u l d b e p r e s e n t t o r e c e i v e m e a t d i n n e r . He

t o l d m e t h a t s h e h a d n e v e r i n h e r l i f e m e t a n y g e n t l e m a n

o f t h e E n g l i s h r a c e , a n d f e l t a l i t t l e n e r v o u s a t t h e

v e n t u r e ; s h e c o u l d n o t d e p a r t f r o m u s a g e s o f a r a s t o e a t

a t t h e t a b l e w i t h u s , b u t w a s a n x i o u s t o m e e t m e a n d f o r

t h e f i r s t t i m e t o t r y h e r E n g l i s h w i t h o n e f r o m a b r o a d .

T h e h o u s e a n d g a r d e n f i l l e d u p a l l m y o l d v i s i o n s o f

S a a d i ' s " G u l i s t a n " o r R o s e G a r d e n . T h e v i l l a , e m b o w e r e d

b y p a l m s , t w i n e d a b o u t w i t h b l o s s o m i n g v i n e s , t h e o p e n

s i d e s o f t h e d r a w i n g - r o o m t a p e s t r i e d w i t h f l o w e r s , t h e a i r

p e r f u m e d b y t h e b r e a t h o f r o s e s , m a d e a s t a t i o n i n m y

" Earthward Pilgrimage . " B u t w h e n t h e S i n h a l e s e l a d y

a p p e a r e d a l l o f t h e s e f l o w e r s a n d d e c o r a t i o n s w o v e t h e m -

s e l v e s i n t o a s y m p a t h e t i c f r a m e a r o u n d h e r .

T h e E n g l i s h g o v e r n e s s w a s h a n d s o m e , b u t n o t y p e o f

b e a u t y p r e v i o u s l y s e e n h a d p r e p a r e d m e f o r t h a t o f L a d y

A r u n a c h a l a m . Her complexion was of lightest gold-

t i n t , a s l i g h t r o s e - m i s t a p p e a r i n g a n d v a n i s h i n g o n h e r

c h e e k ; h e r f e a t u r e s s m a l l a n d f i n e , h e r a m p l e b l a c k t r e s s e s

f e l l a r o u n d h e r o v a l f a c e . T h e t i m i d i t y i n h e r l a r g e e y e s

w a s s c a r c e l y v e i l e d b y t h e l o n g l a s h e s , b u t t h e r e w a s a l s o

a n e x p r e s s i o n o f i n f a n t i n e c u r i o s i t y . S h e w a s h a r d l y

s e v e n t e e n , I s u p p o s e . I t w a s i n D e c e m b e r , t h e t r o p i c a l

s u m m e r , a n d t h e l a d y w a s n o t b u r d e n e d w i t h g a r m e n t s ;

h e r s i m p l e w h i t e b u t t o n e d d r a p e r y f o l d e d s o f t l y a r o u n d

h e r w i t h t w o o r t h r e e c o i l s , a n d s h e w o r e j e w e l l e d a r m l e t s .

She said something in Sinhalese, which the j u d g e

i n t e r p r e t e d :" S h e w e l c o m e s y o u a n d b e g s t h a t y o u w i l l

b e s e a t e d . " S h e h e r s e l f t o o k a s e a t o n a d i v a n a n d s a i d

p r e s e n t l y w i t h a n a c c e n t I m i g h t h a v e t h o u g h t c o m i c a l i n

a n o t h e r , b u t n o w f o u n d c h a r m i n g , t h a t s h e l o v e d t o s t u d y

E n g l i s h . W i t h s o m e a i d f r o m h e r g o v e r n e s s s h e t o l d m e



1 1 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

t h a t s h e b a d h e a r d t h a t i n E n g l a n d w o m e n w e r e f r e e ,

t h a t t h e y w e r e a b l e t o e n t e r i n t o t h e e m p l o y m e n t s o f l i f e ;

i n I n d i a a n d e v e n C e y l o n w o m e n h a d f e w a d v a n t a g e s .

I g a v e h e r a n a c c o u n t o f t h e p r o g r e s s i n t h a t d i r e c t i o n i n

E n g l a n d a n d A m e r i c a , t e l l i n g h e r p a r t i c u l a r l y a b o u t t h e

f e m a l e p h y s i c i a n s a n d a r t i s t s . Her colour went and came

a s s h e l i s t e n e d a n d a n s w e r e d ,"

I a m v e r y g l a d ." She bad

beard that when the Prince of Wales (Edward VII) was

in India, and made grand parade in the cities attended

b y a l l t h e H i n d u p r i n c e s i n t h e i r r i c h e s t c o s t u m e s , h e h a d

r e q u e s t e d t h a t o n e a c h s u c h o c c a s i o n t h e l a d i e s s h o u l d b e

a l l o w e d t o w i t n e s s t h e s c e n e . The Prince had acted the

p a r t o f m a n y a f a i r y p r i n c e i n o r i e n t a l f o l k - l o r e , a n d i n

the impression made on Lady Arunachalam, the only lady

of high caste with whom I was able to converse in that

r e g i o n , I c o u l d p e r c e i v e t h a t b e h a d n o t o n l y l e f t h i s i m a g e

i n t h e z e n a n a a l o n g w i t h t h e c a n o n i z e d h e r o e s , b u t h a d

b e e n t h e m e a n s o f p l a c i n g s l i g h t l y a j a r t h o s e c l o s e - b a r r e d

d o o r s w h i c h u l t i m a t e l y p e r h a p s m a y b e t h r o w n o p e n .

T h e j u d g e w a s d e l i g h t e d w i t h t h e f r e e d o m o f h i s w i f e

i n c o n v e r s a t i o n w i t h a s t r a n g e r , a n d n o w a n d t h e n p u t i n

a n e n c o u r a g i n g w o r d o r t w o , b u t s h e w a s l e f t t o f o l l o w

h e r o w n w i l l . S h e r e q u e s t e d s o m e s u g g e s t i o n o f i n t e r e s t -

i n g b o o k s i n E n g l i s h , a n d b e f o r e l e a v i n g I m a d e o u t a l i s t .

J u d g e A r u n a c h a l a m h a d a r r a n g e d t h a t o n t h e n e x t

d a y , S u n d a y , t h e m o s t i n t e l l i g e n t B u d d h i s t s o f t h e n e i g h -

b o u r h o o d s h o u l d m e e t m e a t t h e t r a i n a n d b r i n g . m e b y a n

i n t e r e s t i n g r o a d t o h i s h o u s e ; b y b r e a k f a s t t i m e h i s p r e -

p a r a t i o n s f o r M o n d a y ' s c o u r t w o u l d b e f i n i s h e d , a n d w e

c o u l d t o g e t h e r v i s i t v i l l a g e s a n d t e m p l e s . A b o u t t w e n t y

m e t m e , h e a d e d b y t h e E n g l i s h - s p e a k i n g l a w y e r .

O n o u r w a y w e c a m e u p o n a s n a k e r e d u c e d t o h e l p l e s s -

n e s s b y r e d a n t s . I t w a s a h a r m l e s s " r a t - s n a k e , " v a l u e d



A PLEA FOR A SNAKE 1 1 5

a s t h e c h i e f e x t e r m i n a t o r o f r a t s . It had received no

wound, but these red ants have power to paraly ze and

b i n d a c r e a t u r e f i v e f e e t l o n g . The snake was coloured

red by the Lilliputian swarm, and I proposed that it

s h o u l d b e d e l i v e r e d b y d e a t h f r o m i t s m o t i o n l e s s m i s e r y .

B u t t h e r e w e r e m u r m u r s a g a i n s t t hi s . I w a s g i v e n t o

u n d e r s t a n d t h a t i t w a s c o n t r a r y t o t h e i r r e l i g i o n t o t a k e

l i f e , e v e n t h a t o f t h e a n t s . We went on some sixty yards

in silence, when I turned and requested that the snake

might be brought . I t w a s b r o u g h t o n a p o l e , t h e n a t m y

request was dipped in a pool and cleared of ants, and

f i n a l l y l a i d a c r o s s t h e r o a d . I t w a s e v i d e n t l y h a l f d e a d ,

b u t i f l e f t m i g h t l i n g e r i n a g o n y s o m e d a y s . It was on

t h e f i r s t S u n d a y o f 1 8 8 4 t h a t I t h u s f o u n d m y s e l f i n a

f o r e s t o f C e y l o n p r e a c h i n g t o B u d d h i s t s i n b e h a l f o f a

s n a k e , b r i n g i n g b a c k t o t h e m f r o m t h e W e s t a m o r e

h u m a n e i n t e r p r e t a t i o n o f t h e i r o w n d o c t r i n e . I t o l d t h e m

h o w p a i n f u l l y i t i m p r e s s e d m e t h a t t h e m e r c i f u l n e s s o f

Buddha should result in the torture of any creatures .

T h e c o m p a s s i o n a t e h e a r t o f t h a t g r e a t t e a c h e r , r e c o i l i n g

from the cruel sacrifices of altars, from the agonies

inflicted by man on man, and the disregard of animal

s u f f e r i n g s , h a d t e s t i f i e d a g a i n s t s u c h c r u e l t i e s ; but what

would he say could he now see that his tenderness had

e n d e d i n l e a v i n g a h a r m l e s s a n i m a l t o b e s l o w l y d e v o u r e d

a l i v e d u r i n g s e v e r a l d a y s ? W h a t w o u l d t h e c o m p a s -

s i o n a t e B u d d h a , f o r w h o m a s e r p e n t i s s a i d t o h a v e m a d e

a throne with his coils -what would he do if he were

i n t h e p r e s e n c e o f t h i s m i s e r y w h i c h w e c a n n o t r e l i e v e

but can end ? A s I s a i d t h i s , e a c h w o r d b e i n g t r a n s l a t e d

t o t h e m a s u t t e r e d , a y o u t h s t e p p e d f o r t h a n d w i t h

o n e v i g o r o u s b l o w o f a s t i c k e n d e d t h e s n a k e ' s l i f e .

T h e c o m p a n y t h e n b e g a n t o t a l k a m o n g t h e m s e l v e s ,



1 1 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

a n d p r e s e n t l y t h e l a w y e r c o m m u n i c a t e d t o m e t h e i r p o i n t

o f v i e w . T h e s n a k e ' s s i t u a t i o n w a s t h e r e s u l t o f i t s p r e -

v i o u s h i s t o r y i n o t h e r f o r m s , a n d i t s d e a t h b y a n t s m i g h t

be a necessary condition of reaching a higher future,

s u c h d e a t h b e i n g i t s s e l f - d e t e r m i n e d p a t h . T o t h i s I a n -

swered that our passi ng by was as much its destiny as

t h e a t t a c k o f a n t s . The merciful hand that struck the

b l o w o f d e l i v e r a n c e w a s t h e p o o r r e p t i l e ' s d e s t i n y . A n d

w h y , I u r g e d , s h o u l d w e n o t a t a l l t i m e s a n d t o a l l c r e a -

t u r e s b e a g o o d d e s t i n y , c o u n t e r a c t i n g t h e c r u e l t i e s o f

n a t u r e ? This won some favour .

After a luxurious breakfast with Judge Arunachalam ,

we began our ramble by visiting a temple in which by

the side of Buddha stands a small shrine of Vishnu, to

whom offerings of flowers are subordinately made . Wef o u n d h a n g i n g f r o m t h e h a n d o f V i s h n u a B u d d h i s t ' s

w r i t t e n v o w o f a c e r t a i n n u m b e r o f b a s k e t s o f f l o w e r s a n d

o n e h u n d r e d l a m p s i n c a s e o f t h e o f f e r e r ' s s u c c e s s i n d e -

f e n d i n g h i m s e l f o n a t r i a l f o r t h e f t . J u d g e A r u n i c h a l a m ,

b e f o r e w h o m t h e m a n h a d b e e n a c q u i t t ed , w a s a m u s e d

by observing these duly paid debts to Vishnu . A m o n g

these gods transformed to guardian genii is now Maia,

t h e m o t h e r o f B u d d h a . S h e i n t r o d u c e d B u d d h a a m o n g

the gods to humanize them . I w a s s c a n d a l i z e d t h a t h e r

s e x s h o u l d b e c h a n g e d ; b u t a p r i e s t e x p l a i n e d t o m e t h a t

by continued merits a woman might be promoted to be a

man in the next world . I c o u l d n o t f o r b e a r s a y i n g t h a t

I hoped the time might come when it would be believed

t h a t a m a n , b y e x t r a o r d i n a r y v i r t u e s , m i g h t b e r e w a r d e d

b y b e c o m i n g a w o m a n .

A t o n e t e m p l e w e m e t t h e p r i e s t W a s k a d u w e S u b h f i t i , t o

w h o m t h e j u d g e p a i d m a r k e d h o n o u r . H e w a s k n o w n t o

Europea n scholars by his Pali Grammar (1876), and I



THE P R I E S T ' S SUBSTITUTE 117

h a d i n m y p o c k e t a l e t t e r t o h i m f r o m M a x M u l l e r . Hes p o k e e x c e l l e n t E n g l i s h , a n d w a s a g r a c i o u s o l d g e n t l e -

m a n . H i s r e s i d e n c e w a s s o m e d i s t a n c e , a n d h e w a s b r o u g h t

i n a s e d a n c a r r i e d b y f o u r m e n . I v e n t u r e d t o a l l u d e t o

t h i s d e v o t i o n o n t h e p a r t o f h i s p e o p l e . ."

I t i s , " h e s a i d ,

" b e c a u s e I h a v e b e e n w i t h t h e m v e r y l o n g a n d a m n o w

t o o f e e b l e t o w a l k t h e d i s t a n c e f r o m m y h o u s e . " Bu t I

w a s d e s i r o u s o f k n o w i n g w h y h e d i d n o t c o m e i n a c a r -

r i a g e d r a w n b y h o r s e s . H e s a i d t h a t l i f e w a s s o s a c r e d

t h a t h e w a s a f r a i d a h o r s e m i g h t b e v i t a l l y i n j u r e d b y

c a r r y i n g h i m . " B u t , " I s a i d , " m i g h t i t n o t b e t h e s a m e

w i t h o n e o f t h o s e m e n w h i l e h e i s c a r r y i n g y o u ? " A f t e r

a m o m e n t ' s s i l e n c e h e s a i d v e r y s w e e t l y , " B u t a m a n

c a n t e l l m e i f h e i s s u f f e r i n g . "

S u b h u t i w a s a n e x a c t t h i n k e r , a n d t h e e l e v a t i o n a n d

s w e e t n e s s o f h i s s p i r i t e x c i t e d m y v e n e r a t i o n . H e w a s t h e

B u d d h i s t I h a d d r e a m e d o f . T h e a f f e c t i o n o f h i s p e o p l e

f o r h i m w a s t o u c h i n g . H e h a d s o m e p l e a s a n t w o r d t o s a y

t o e a c h o f t h e m . T h e m o t h e r s b r o u g h t t h e i r c h i l d r e n t o

h i m . that be might smile on them, and some of them

b r o u g h t h i m w h i t e l o t o s f l o w e r s .

I g o t i n f o r m a t i o n f r o m S u b h u t i o n t h e p o p u l a r B u d -

d h i s t f o l k - l o r e a n d i d e a s o f f u t u r e e x i s t e n c e , f o r I k n e w

t h a t t h e " w il l t o l iv e " h a d l o n g p r e s s e d N i r v a n a ( a n n i h i -

l a t i o n ) t o a r e m o t e p l a c e . S i v a h a s t r a n s f e r r e d h i s p u n i .

t i v e p o w e r t o Y a m a , w h o s e t h r o n e i s o n a s w o r d ' s e d g e ,

a n d o v e r h i m a m o u n t a i n : s h o u l d h e s h o w t h e v e r y l e a s t

p a r t i a l i t y i n a n y j u d g m e n t t h e m o u n t a i n w i l l f a l l o n h i m

a n d t h e s w o r d c l e a v e h i m . O n e ' s e v i l d e e d s t u r n t o h i s

d e v i l . K i l l i n g a n i m a l s i s t h e s i n m o s t s e v e r e l y p u n i s h e d ,

b u t a B u d d h i s t m a y e a t m e a t o f a n a n i m a l s l a i n b y a n -

o t h e r . A m a n k i l l e d a g o a t t o g i v e f o o d t o a n o b l e w h o

v i s i t e d h i m ; t h e s l a y e r h a d t o s u f f e r a s m a n y y e a r s a s

I



1 1 8 MY PILGRIMAGE

t h e g o a t h a d h a i r s ! I n h e a v e n a l l o f i n f e r i o r m e r i t s w a i t

o n t h o s e o f s u p e r i o r m e r i t s . T h e n e x t B u d d h a w i l l n o t b e

f o u n d u n d e r t h e B o - t r e e b u t u n d e r t h e I r o n - w o o d - t r e e , -

a t r i b u t e t o b e a u t y , a s t h i s t r e e h a s r o s y l e a v e s . T h e r e i s

n o m a r r i a g e i n h e a v e n , b u t t h e s e x e s r e m a i n . ( I n a f r e s c o

I remarked only one she-demon among many male ones . )

A s w e w e r e w a l k i n g t h r o u g h o n e o f t h e v i l l a g e s a

woman ran out from her house and threw herself on her

k n e e s b e f o r e t h e j u d g e , t h e t e a r s f l o w i n g d o w n h e r c h e e k s .

S h e t o u c h e d h e r f o r e h e a d o n h i s f e e t , t h e n l a i d a s i d e h e r

c a p e , a n d t h u s n a k e d t o t h e w a i s t ( s y m b o l o f u t t e r a b a s e -

ment) clasped her hands . While she was pouring forth

h e r h e a r t - b r o k e n p r a y e r , t h e j u d g e w h i s p e r e d t o m e , " H e r

s o n h a s j u s t b e e n a r r e s t e d . " A f t e r l i s t e n i n g t o h e r s t o r y

her son, her only support, excited by tree-toddy, had

struck somebody -the judge placed her garment on her

s h o u l d e r s , a n d l i f t e d h e r g e n t l y . H e t h e n w e n t t o t h e

d o o r s o f s e v e r a l n e i g h b o u r s a n d e n q u i r e d a b o u t t h e c a s e .

T h e r e p o r t s w e r e a l l f a v o u r a b l e t o t h e c h a r a c t e r o f t h e

y o u t h , t h e b l o w w a s n o t s e r i o u s , a n d h e s p o k e w o r d s t h a t

b r o u g h t h o p e i n t o t h e w i d o w ' s f a c e .

T h e j u d g e t o l d t h e g r o u p w h o h a d c o l l e c t e d ( s o h e i n -

formed me) that I honoured Buddha and read his teach-

i n g s t o a s s e m b l i e s i n E n g l a n d ; and he desired me to be

s h o w n t h e i r h o u s e h o l d a r r a n g e m e n t s . I w a s s h o w n t h r o u g h

s e v e r a l h o u s e s , a n d w o m e n b r o u g h t o u t t h e i r u t e n s i l s a n d

implements . O n e y o u n g w o m a n b r o u g h t a s t o n e m o r t a r

a n d p e s t l e a n d b e a t c o r n i n t o " h a d d y " (m ea l) . An ot he r

e x h i b i t e d t h e s t o n e o i l - p r e s s . A l l s u c h t h i n g s w e r e d o n e

b y w o m e n . T h e i r f l e s h w a s l i k e t h e l i g h t e s t b r o n z e ; t h e i r

forms and movements graceful, and in their faces was

t h e h a p p i n e s s a n d i n n o c e n c e o f c h i l d r e n . T h e o n l y t e a r s

I saw in Ceylon were those of the widow about her son .



S UB H U T I , A L E A R N E D B U DD H I S T A U T H O R



BISHOP HEBER'S HYMN 1 1 9

T h e j u d g e ( n o t a B u d d h i s t ) s a i d t h a t c r i m e i n C e y l o n

w a s v e r y r a r e s o f a r a s B u d d h i s t s w e r e c o n c e r n e d . T h e y

had few and simple wants and no hunger for riches or

splendour. I received an account of a curious case of

t h e f t w h i c h h a d o c c u r r e d i n t h e c o l d m o n t h s . A Buddhist

had stolen a ring from an English lady, confessed the

theft, and been imprisoned . H e t h e n s e n t w o r d t o t h e

E n g l i s h l a d y w h e r e s h e w o u l d f i n d h e r r i n g . S h e f o u n d

it, and was curious about the proceeding . I t w a s d i s -

c o v e r e d t h a t t h e m a n ' s h u t w a s s o o u t o f r e p a i r a n d w e t

t h a t h e c o u l d n o t l i v e i n i t d u r i n g t h e c o l d s e a s o n , a n d

h a d d e t e r m i n e d b y t h i s t h e f t t o o b t a i n f o r a t i m e c o m f o r t -

a b l e s u p p o r t i n h e r M a j e s t y ' s a g r e e a b l e p r i s o n .

A m o n g E u r o p e a n m e n o f t h e w o r l d a c q u a i n t e d w i t h

Ceylon, the lines about that island in the Missionary

Hymn-T h o u g h e v e r y p r o s p e c t p l e a s e s ,

A n d o n l y m a n i s v i l e -

a r e r e g a r d e d a s a h u g e j o k e . A M o s l e m j e w e l l e r , o f

w h o m I w a s m a k i n g s o m e p u r c h a s e s a n d w h o w a s f l u e n t

in English, told me that it was perfectly well known

there how Bishop Heber came to write those lines: a

E u r a s i a n C h r i s t i a n j e w e l l e r i n C o l o m b o s o l d H e b e r a

b i g e m e r a l d t h a t w h e n h e g o t h o m e t u r n e d o u t t o b e

glass, so he sat down and wrote that man in Ceylon is

v i l e ! I t i s c e r t a i n t h a t i n a n y g r e a t c i t y o f C h r i s t e n d o m

there is more crime in one day than Ceylon know s in a

year .

There are in Colombo several 11 v i l e " houses depend-

i n g f o r p a t r o n a g e o n t r a v e l l e r s . When our ship arrived,

a g e n t s c a m e o u t o n t h e t e n d e r a n d w e n t a b o u t r e c o m -

m e n d i n g t h o s e h o u s e s , d e c l a r i n g t h a t t h e i n m a t e s w e r e a l l

C h r i s t i a n s .



1 2 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

When I arrived in Ceylon there was much excitement

a b o u t a n a t t a c k t h a t h a d j u s t b e e n m a d e b y t h e C a t h o l i c s

upon a Buddhist procession . A b i t o f w h a t w a s b e l i e v e d

t o b e t h e a l m s - b o w l o f B u d d h a , f o u n d a t S o p a r a n e a r

B o m b a y , h a v i n g b e e n p r e s e n t e d t o t h e B u d d h i s t s o f

C e y l o n , t h e y w e r e b e a r i n g i t t o a s h r i n e w h e n t h e y w e r e

a t t a c k e d . T h e C a t h o l i c s t h o u g h t t h e y w e r e m i m i c k i n g

t h e i r o w n p r o c e s s i o n s a n d c a r r y i n g a l o f t a c r u c i f i e d a p e .

T h e B u d d h i s t s w e r e f o l l o w i n g u s a g e s o l d e r t h a n t h e

C h r i s t i a n e r a .

In Canterbury, England, there is an English Church

training-schoo l for missionaries, in which I once saw

y o u t h s f r e s h f r o m u n i v e r s i t i e s l e a r n i n g c a r p e n t e r i n g a n d

o t h e r m e c h a n i c w o r k t h a t m i g h t b e h e l p f u l t o p r i m i t i v e

t r i b e s , b u t t h e o n e a r t n e e d f u l t h e y w e r e n o t l e a r n i n g -t h a t t h e i r f i r s t d u t y w a s t o c o m p r e h e n d a r e l i g i o n b e f o r e

t r y i n g t o d e s t r o y i t . T h a t a n c i e n t s e a p o r t t o w n , S o p a r a ,

w h i c h o n e t r a d i t i o n p r o n o u n c e s B u d d h a ' s b i r t h p l a c e , a n d

w h e r e t h e r e l i c s e n t t o C e y l o n w a s f o u n d , h a s b e e n

i d e n t i f i e d b y B e n f e y a s t h e O p h i r o f S o l o m o n ; t h e P o r -

tuguese made converts there over seven centuries ago,

a n d t h e C h r i s t i a n s c o n t i n u e a s a c a s t e , t h o u g h i n r i t e s a n d

d r e s s a n d b e l i e f s h a r d l y d i s t i n g u i s h a b l e f r o m t h e B r a h -

m a n s . T h e P o r t u g u e s e a r e u s u a l l y t h e m o s t f r i e n d l y

missionaries, and their only ou tbreak, that of 1883,

t h o u g h n o b o d y w a s h a r m e d , w a s u n f o r t u n a t e . I t g a v e

t h e A m e r i c a n t h e o s o p h i s t , C o l o n e l O l c o t t , a n o p p o r t u n i t y

t o p o s e a s t h e p a t r o n a n d a d v o c a t e o f t h e B u d d h i s t s , -a n

opportunity he made the most of, -and to ally Blavat-

s k y i s m w i t h B u d d h a , l o w e r i n g t h e l a t t e r i n t h e u n l e a r n e d

m i n d . O n t h e o t h e r h a n d , t h e d i s g r a c e o f t h e P o r t u g u e s e

missionaries in Colombo was the means of admonishing

a l l m i s s i o n a r i e s t h a t t h e E m p r e s s o f I n d i a w a s t h e h e a d



A B U DD H I S T T E M P L E



THE EVILS OF NATURE 1 2 1

o f t h e B u d d h i s t C h u r c h i n C e y l o n , a n d t h a t n o d i s r e s p e c t

t o i t w o u l d b e t o l e r a t e d .

In the ancient temple at Khandy the priest unfolded

f o r m e t h e v a r i o u s s a c r e d v e s t m e n t s , w h i c h b o r e s t r i k i n g

resemblance to those of Catholicism . I mentioned this

t o t h e p r i e s t , w h o s a i d t h a t t h e y ( B u d d h i s t s ) w e l l k n e w

t h e o r i g i n o f t h e C a t h o l i c v e s t m e n t s , b u t d i d n o t w i s h t o

c a u s e i r r i t a t i o n b y t a l k i n g o f t h e m a t t e r .

I observed just outside the inner door of this very

a n c i e n t t e m p l e a s m a l l l a m p w i t h r e d l i g h t o v e r a b a s i n

of holy water, from which each one coming out touched

h i s o r h e r f o r e h e a d ; t h e r e w e r e a l s o s h r i n e s , r e l i c s , a l t a r

b e l l s , a n d r o s a r i e s . It is not easy to believe that the

Buddhist and Catholic forms are of independent origin

a n d v e r y d i f f i c u l t t o d e t e r m i n e w h i c h w a s t h e c h i e f

borrower . On the outer walls of the temple were mural

p a i n t i n g s r e p r e s e n t i n g m o n s t r o u s h e l l s a n d d e v i l s , a n d

t h e t o r t u r e o f h u m a n b o d i e s . I a s k e d a l e a r n e d B u d d h i s t

h o w i t w a s t h a t a r e l i g i o n o f m e r c i f u l n e s s , w h i c h i n a l l

h i s t o r y n e v e r s h e d b l o o d n o r h a r m e d e v e n d a n g e r o u s

animals, could thus menace mortals with supernatural

t e r r o r s . S u r p r i s e d b y m y q u e s t i o n , h e r e p l i e d t h a t i t w a s

t h e g r e a t a i m o f B u d d h a t o s a v e m a n k i n d f r o m t h o s e

s u f f e r i n g s . " B u t w h o , t h e n , " I a s k e d , " i s r e s p o n s i b l e f o r

t h e e x i s t e n c e o f s u c h t o r t u r e s i n t h e u n i v e r s e ? " " N o

o n e i s r e s p o n s i b l e . T h e s e a r e t h e e v i l s o f n a t u r e , t h e c o n -

d i t i o n s o f e x i s t e n c e , w h i c h n o G o d o r d e m o n o r i g i n a t e d

o r c a u s e s , w h i c h n o t e v e n t h e p o w e r o f B u d d h a c o u l d

a b o l i s h , b u t w h i c h h e t a u g h t u s h o w t o e s c a p e ." I wished

to know the popular, as distinguished from the theo-

l o g i c a l v i e w o f t h i s m a t t e r , a n d a s k e d a n i n t e l l i g e n t l a y -

man what was his own view of punishment after death .

H i s r e p l y w a s : " N o n e i s e v e r p u n i s h e d b y o t h e r t h a n



1 2 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

h i m s e l f . A l l t h e e v i l t h a t a m a n d o e s d u r i n g l i f e , i f n o t

o v e r b a l a n c e d b y t h e g o o d h e h a s d o n e , f o r m s a t h i s d e a t h a

r e t r i b u t i v e s e l f o f t h a t m a n ; a n i m a g e o f h i m s e l f , u n c o n -

s c i o u s a s a m a c h i n e , t o r t u r e s h i m a c c o r d i n g t o h i s d e m e r i t s . "

I n o n e a n c i e n t f r e s c o a t K h a n d y t e m p l e t h e r e i s p i c -

t u r e d a m a n o f n o b l e f i g u r e o n a c r o s s i n h e l l . T h e d e -

m o n s v a i n l y t r y t o h a r m h i m , w h i l e t h e h u m a n f o r m s

w o r s h i p h i m . T h e p a i n t i n g i s t o o d i m f o r m e t o d i s c o v e r

h o w t h e f o r m - w a s a t t a c h e d t o t h e c r o s s , o r t o m a k e o u t

t h e p r e c i s e s h a p e o f t h e c r o s s . It seems to me much ear-

l i e r t h a n t h e P o r t u g u e s e m i s s i o n i n C e y l o n f o u r c e n t u r i e s

a g o , b u t I n a t u r a l l y a s c r i b e d t h a t p a r t i c u l a r p i c t u r e t o

C h r i s t i a n i t y . N e v e r t h e l e s s t h e w o r d Stauros i n t h e N e w

T e s t a m e n t , w h i c h w e t r a n s l a t e L ° c r o s s , " r e a l l y m e a n s s t a k e ,

t h e c r u c i f o r m a p p e a r i n g o n l y a t t h e c l o s e o f t h e t h i r d

century . I p o s s e s s a n o l d P e r s i a n p i c t u r e r e p r e s e n t i n g a

p e r s o n a g e o f g r e a t d i g n i t y i n h e l l , s e a t e d o n a s o r t o f

t h r o n e , a n d u n h a r m e d by t h e d e m on s . I t m a y b e t h a t

t h e f i g u r e i n t h e P e r s i a n p i c t u r e i s m e a n t f o r Z o r o a s t e r ,

a n d i n i t s t r a n s i t i o n t o K h a n d y c a u g h t u p t h e C h r i s t i a n

e m b l e m . However this may be, the Parsi and the Sin-

h a l e s e c o n c e p t i o n s o f t h e f u t u r e a r e n e a r l y t h e s a m e

. I no n e o f o u r t a l k s S u b h u t i s a i d , " One's deeds change to

h i s d e v i l . " I n t h e v i s i o n o f t h e a n c i e n t P a r s i , A r d a V i r a f ,

i t i s w r i t t e n : " I n a r e g i o n o f b l e a k c o l d w a n d e r e d a

s o u l w h i c h h a d d e p a r t e d f r o m t h e e a r t h ; a n d t h e r e s t o o d

before him a hideous woman, profligate and deformed .

Who art thou, who art thou, than whom no demon could

b e m o r e . h o r r i b l e ? ' T o h i m s h e a n s w e r e d , ' I a m t h y

actions!"' The good meet their actions in the form of

b e a u t i f u l m a i d e n s .

I passed a night at Khandy, and in the evening my

i n t e r p r e t e r , a M o s l e m , t o l d m e t h a t t h e r e w a s t o b e a d i s -



K H A N D Y T E M P L E



A MOSLEM SERMON 1 2 3

c o u r s e b y a m i s s i o n a r y o f h i s f a i t h i n a p r i v a t e h o u s e , t o

w h i c h , b e i n g a M o s l e m , h e c o u l d t a k e m e . T h e r d o m w a s

c r o w d e d b y p e r h a p s s i x t y p e o p l e . Unfortuna tely my guide

could not whisper any translations of what the speaker

said, but I managed to gather from the exercises some-

t h i n g a b o u t t h e m . The preacher or mollah was clearly

n o t a S i n h a l e s e , a n d I b e l i e v e h e w a s a P e r s i a n ; he was

perhaps forty, with some colour in his cheeks, an eye

a l t e r n a t e l y e x p a n d i n g a n d c l o s i n g , a s m a l l i n t e l l e c t u a l

face, and a voice which easily passed from one tone to

a n o t h e r , - d i d a c t i c , p a t h e t i c , h u m o r o u s , - w i t h q u i c k

g e s t u r e s o f a r m s a n d f i n g e r s f o r e v e r y t u r n . There was

nothing notable about his dress, but he had beside him

f o u r r e a d e r s i n s o l e m n g a r b , e a c h w i t h a t l a s - l i k e K o r a n s

b e f o r e t h e m . F r o m t h e s e t h e y r e c i t e d i n u n i s o n s u r a s o n

which the mollah made commentaries, introducing nar-

rative illustrations which deeply impressed and moved

h i s h e a r e r s . My guide told me afterwards that the nar-

r a t i v e s w e r e t h o s e o f g r e a t l e a d e r s a n d t e a c h e r s o f I s l a m

who had passed through ordeals and perils and achieved

g r e a t r e s u l t s . T h e K o r a n r e a d e r s r e c i t e d t h e v e r s e s w i t h

r h y t h m i c b e a t a n d m e a s u r e , s t a c c a t o monotone, as if

the four had one tongue . T h e s p e a k e r w a i t e d i n s i l e n c e ,

then suddenly joined them with exact rhythm and tone

for one line, at the end of which the readers stopped,

w h i l e t h e o r a t o r w i t h o u t a n y p a u s e l i n k e d t h a t l i n e t o h i s

next sentence, in which his own style was resumed . A t

t h e e n d o f t h a t c o m m e n t h e f e l l i n t o t h e s t a c c a t o m o n o -

tone, which the readers caught instantly, and went on

w i t h a n o t h e r K o r a n i c p a s s a g e , w h i l e t h e t e a c h e r s a t s t i l l .

T h e m a n ' s a r t w a s p e r f e c t ; there was no loudness, no

t r i c k , b u t a n u n i n t e r r u p t e d f l o w o f t h o u g h t a n d f e e l i n g

as of a fountain, his whole form and face shimmering



l 2 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

w i t h i t s p l a y . A t t i m e s t h e r e w a s a n i n s t a n t o f s o m e t h i n g

l i k e l a u g h t e r i n h i s v o i c e , b u t i t w a s q u a s i - h y s t e r i c a l ,

and no one smiled . I c o u l d n o t u n d e r s t a n d a w o r d , b u t

w a s s o r r y w h e n i t w a s o v e r , a n d w e n t o f f w i t h t h o u g h t s

o f t h e b i r d s a i d t o h a v e o n c e p e r c h e d o n t h e s h o u l d e r o f

M o h a m m e d w h i l e h e w a s p r e a c h i n g .

An extremely ancient temple in Ceylon is Kellania .

N e a r i t i s a n e n o r m o u s B o - t r e e s a i d t o h a v e d e s c e n d e d f r o m

a s l i p o f t h e o r i g i n a l t r e e a t G y a u n d e r w h i c h S a k y a m u n i

received his illumination and became the Buddha . I t i s

n e a r l y a d a y ' s j o u r n e y i n t h e h e i f e r - d r a w n v e h i c l e ; t h e

s u n w a s v e r y h o t , t h e r e g i o n t h i n l y s e t t l e d , a n d t h e r e b e i n g

n o i n n s i t b e c a m e t r y i n g . M y d r i v e r k n e w l i t t l e E n g l i s h ,

and it required pantomime to tell him I was thirsty .

I n s t a n t l y h e d r o p p e d h i s r e i n , q u i c k l y c l i m b e d a p a l m , a n d

p l u c k e d o f f s e v e r a l g r e e n c o c o a n u t s . With his knife he

c u t a h o l e i n t h e h u s k o f o n e , t r a n s f o r m i n g i t i n t o a f l a s k

o f p e r f e c t l y c o o l n e c t a r .

When I reached the temple a beautiful boy, nude but

f o r h i s l o i n g i r d l e , a p p r o a c h e d m e . H e . w a s a b o u t t w e l v e ,

s p o k e E n g l i s h , a n d w a s d e l i g h t e d a t t h e p r o s p e c t o f g u i d -

i n g a v i s i t o r. T h e r e w a s n o v i l l a g e n e a r t h e t e m p l e , w h i c h

was a good deal dilapidated . The tree was wonderful,

b u t t h a t w h i c h m o s t i n t e r e s t e d m e w a s t h e c r o p o f B o - t r e e

l e g e n d s w h i c h h a d g r o w n a r o u n d i t a n d w e r e r e l a t e d t o m e

b y t h e b o y . One was represented in an isolated wooden

house. To this the lad conducted me, opening the door

w i t h a k e y . Inside was an image of Buddha seated under

a t r e e a r t i f i c i a l l y m o d e l l e d a n d e r e c t i n t h e m i d d l e o f t h e

r o o m . T h e l e a v e s o n t h i s t r e e w e r e a l l s p e a r - h e a d s . W h e n

I e n q u i r e d a b o u t t h i s t h e l a d r e l a t e d t h e l e g e n d i n w o r d s

t h a t I w r o t e d o w n a s n e a r l y a s I c o u l d : -

1 1 Ou r L o r d , w h e n t h e e v i l M a r a t r i e d t o t e m p t h i m



FOLK-TALES 1 9 5

m a n y w a y s , w o u l d n o t y i e l d t o h i s e v i l w i l l ; t h e n t h e e v i l

Mara went and brought a great many horrible monsters

t o m a k e o u r L o r d a f r a i d ; b u t h e w a s n o t m a d e a f r a i d ;

then the evil Mara made his horrible monsters to swoop

d o w n o n o u r L o r d ; b u t a l l a t o n c e e v e r y l e a f o n t h e h o l y

t r e e w a s a s p e a r , a n d t h e h o r r i b l e m o n s t e r s w e r e a l l s t u c k

f a s t o n t h e s p e a r s ; and our Lord sat there ; he was not

t e m p t e d , n o t a f r a i d , n o t h u r t 1 "

I c a n h a r d l y b e l i e v e t h a t t h e b o y ' s t a l e w a s l i t e r a l l y

m e m o r i z e d , f o r h i s f a c e w a s r a d i a n t a s h e t o l d i t ; t h e r e

w e r e a l s o h e s i t a t i o n s , a n d p r o b a b l y I w a s m o r e c o n c e r n e d

t o g e t t h e l e g e n d e x a c t t h a n t o w r i t e d o w n h i s e v e r y w o r d .

I w a s o f t e n i m p r e s s e d b y t h e - c a r e w i t h w h i c h c h i l d r e n o f

B u d d h i s t f a m i l i e s a r e i n s t r u c t e d i n t h e m o r a l t a l e s a n d

p a r a b l e s o f t h e i r r e l i g i o n . W h i l e t h e C h r i s t i a n m o t h e r i s

t e l l i n g h e r c h i l d t h e s t o r y o f t h e P r o d i g a l S o n , t h e P e a r l

searched for, the Leaven and Meal, the Buddhist mother

i s t e l l i n g h e r c h i l d t a l e s a n d p a r a b l e s j u s t a s s w e e t ; a n d

so far as they come from the unsophisticated mother's

h e a r t s u c h i n s t r u c t i o n s a r e a l i k e i n j u s t i c e a n d c o m p a s -

s i o n a t e n e s s .

T h e r e a r e m a n y f o l k - t a l e s i n t h e r e g i o n o f K e l l a n i a , a n d

o n e o f t h e m i s s i m i l a r t o a l e g e n d , o f C h a r l e m a g n e . E l a l a ,

t h e T a m i l k i n g , p l a c e d b e s i d e h i s b e d a b e l l t o w h i c h a

r o p e w a s a t t a c h e d e x t e n d i n g t o t h e g a t e o f h i s p a l a c e . A n y

p e r s o n i n h i s k i n g d o m , h o w e v e r h u m b l e , w h o s u f f e r e d a n y

i n j u s t i c e m i g h t r i n g t h i s b e l l a t a n y h o u r a n d t h e k i n g

would instantly arise and never sleep again until the

w r o n g w a s r e d r e s s e d . T h i s w a s i n t h e r e g i o n o f t h e

" Nagas," or serpent-men, which may possibly be con-

nected with the legend that a snake once coiled around

t h e r o p e a n d r a n g t h e b e l l o f C h a r l e m a g n e , w h o r e -

s p o n d e d , a n d f o l l o w e d t h e s n a k e t o i t s n e s t , f o u n d o c c u -



1 2 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

pied by some other animal, which was duly tried, sen-

t e n c e d , a n d s l a i n .

When I -bad the happiness of receivi ng a call from

Subhuti I questioned him about the Christian mission-

a r i e s . I k n e w h i m t o b e i n c a p a b l e o f u n t r u t h o r u n f a i r n e s s .

H e s a i d t h a t s o m e o f t h e m i s s i o n a r i e s t r o u b l e d B u d d h i s t

f a m i l i e s ; t h e y o b t r u d e d i n t o t h e h o m e s o f t h e h u m b l e

p e o p l e a n d f r i g h t e n e d t h e m . T h e y c o u l d o n l y w o r r y t h e m ,

as a Buddhist peasant was quite unable to comprehend

a n y o f t h e i r d o g m a s .

T h e i d e a o f s a l v a t i o n b y o n e ' s o w n m e r i t p r e v a i l s i n

e v e r y r e l i g i o n o n t h e f a c e o f t h e e a r t h e x c e p t C h r i s t i a n i t y .

I n t h e B u d d h i s t w o r l d i t i s t h e l e s s o n t a u g h t f r o m t h e

c r a d l e ; i t i s t h e d a i l y b r e a d i n e v e r y h o u s e h o l d . In one

o f t h e v i l l a g e s t h r o u g h w h i c h I p a s s e d w i t h J u d g e A r u n a -

c h a l a m I n o t i c e d a b e a u t i f u l b a b y i n i t s m o t h e r ' s a r m s ,

a n d p r e s s e d a p i e c e o f s i l v e r i n t o i t s p i n k h a n d . T h e c h i l d

w h i m p e r e d f a i n t l y , a n d t h e m o t h e r s a i d s o m e t h i n g t o i t a s

i f i t c o u l d u n d e r s t a n d . W h e n w e l e f t , t h e j u d g e r e p e a t e d

what the mother said : " W h y s h o u l d y o u f r e t w h e n y o u

h a v e r e c e i v e d a g i f t f r o m a m e r i t o r i o u s h a n d ? " T h e w o r d

" m e r i t o r i o u s " w a s a d e f i n i t i v e r e l i g i o u s e x p r e s s i o n , a n d

r e f e r r e d t o w h a t m y i n d u l g e n t f r i e n d h a d s a i d o f m e .

I do not remember a child really crying in Ceylon .

I m e n t i o n e d t h i s t o a g e n t l e m a n f r o m P h i l a d e l p h i a w h i l e

w e w e r e w a l k i n g t h r o u g h t h e c r o w d s o n a m a r k e t d a y .

There were swarms of children, but we failed to hear

a n y c r y i n g , n o r d i d w e h e a r a n a n g r y w o r d e x c h a n g e d

between grown-up people . I c o u l d s e e s o m e t h i n g o f t h e

serene Buddha of the temples in every Sinhalese face .

O f c o u r s e i t w a s d i f f e r e n t w i t h t h e d a r k - v i s a g e d Tamils ;

t h e s e a r e t a c i t u r n , a n d h a v e a l o o k o f m e l a n c h o l y .

On Christmas eve I heard the beating of tom-toms in



CHRISTMAS EVE IN CEYLON 1 2 7 ,

C o l o m b o , a n d l e a r n e d t h a t f r o m i m m e m o r i a l t i m e s D e c e m -

b e r 2 5 w a s t h e s a c r e d d a y o f B u d d h a . E v i l b e i n g s w e r e

f r i g h t e n e d a w a y b y t h e t o m - t o m s . B y t h i s t i m e I h a d

f o r m e d f r i e n d s h i p s w i t h s e v e r a l B u d d h i s t s i n t h e t o w n ,

a n d o n e o f t h e m - a l e a r n e d m a n -w e n t a b o u t w i t h m e .

I f o u n d t h a t t h e b e a t i n g o f t h e t o m - t o m w a s a l t o g e t h e r b y

w o m e n . M y f r i e n d t o o k m e i n t o s e v e r a l h o u s e s . Be h i n d

e a c h w a s a t i n y y a r d a n d a c i r c l e o f w o m e n s e a t e d o n

t h e g r o u n d , a l l b e a t i n g l i t t l e d r u m s a n d s i n g i n g , t h o u g h

t h e y p a u s e d n o w a n d t h e n t o c o n v e r s e . A t t h e c e n t r e o f

e a c h c i r c l e w a s a s m a l l f i r e . A s t h e n i g h t w a s w a r m , t h e

f i r e w a s n o d o u b t o f s o m e r e l i g i o u s i m p o r t a n c e .

I t i s o n l y w i t h i n t h e m e m o r y o f m a n y n o w l i v i n g t h a t

B u d d h a h a s b e c o m e a n e m i n e n t n a m e i n E n g l a n d a n d

A m e r i c a , e v e n a m o n g s c h o l a r s . T h e p o p u l a r e n t h u s i a s m

for him was largely due to Sir Edwin Arnold's p oem

" T h e L i g h t o f A s i a , " a n a d a p t a t i o n o f B u d d h a t o o c c i -

d e n t a l p i e t i s m o f l i t t l e v a l u e t o c r i t i c a l s t u d e n t s . T h e l o n g

a n d u n i v e r s a l c i r c u l a t i o n o f B u n y a n ' s ` 1 P i l g r i m ' s P r o -

g r e s s " w a s a g o o d p r e p a r a t i o n f o r t h e e x a l t a t i o n o f a f a b -

u l o u s B u d d h a w h o , a f t e r s e e i n g t h e v a r i o u s t y p e s o f h u m a n

m i s e r y , a b a n d o n s f a m i l y a n d f r i e n d s l i k e ' , C h r i s t i a n ; "

a n d i t w a s n a t u r a l t h a t S i r E d w i n s h o u l d d i s c o v e r s o m e

s o r t o f C e l e s t i a l C i t y i n t h e N i r v a n a - t h e l i v i n g s u i c i d e

-sought by Buddha . L a d y A r n o l d ' s f a t h e r , R e v . W . H .

C h a n n i n g , o n o n e o f h i s p i l g r i m a g e s t o C o n c o r d ( o n e o f

h i s o l d h o m e s ) g a v e t h e r e a l e c t u r e o n B u d d h a , w h o m h e

s o e x a l t e d t h a t n e x t d a y a c o m p a n y o f l a d i e s c a l l e d o n h i m

t o d e m a n d a n o t h e r l e c t u r e t o s a y w h y t h e y s h o u l d n o t a l l

b e c o m e B u d d h i s t s . C h a n n i n g r e p l i e d t h a t h e w a s e x c e e d -

i n g l y d i s t r e s s e d t h a t t h e y s h o u l d h a v e s u c h a n i d e a , b u t

t h a t i t w a s i m p o s s i b l e f o r h i m t o g i v e a n o t h e r l e c t u r e . I n

C h a n n i n g ' s e a r l i e r y e a r s , u n d e r t h e s t i m u l a t i n g b r e a t h o f



. 1 2 8 M Y P I L G R I M A G E

N e w E n g l a n d T r a n s c e n d e n t a l i s m , t h e w o r d " C o m e - o u t e r "

w a s n o t j a r g o n , b u t a s o l e m n t i t l e o f p i l g r i m s c o m i n g o u t

o f t h e i r s e v e r a l C i t i e s o f D e s t r u c t i o n . T h o u g h B u d d h a w a s

k n o w n a s a H i n d u n o n c o n f o r m i s t , h e r e m a i n e d a n a c a d e m i c

f i g u r e , n o t b e i n g a s s o c i a t e d w i t h a n y i d e a l o f p r o g r e s s o r

r e f o r m a t i o n t he n a p p r ec i a b l e i n t h e W e st . S i n c e t h e n a

g r e a t B u d d h a l i t e r a t u r e h a s a r i s e n , b u t w i t h o u t b r i n g i n g

o u t a n y o r i g i n a l o r d i s t i n c t i v e t e a c h i n g b y B u d d h a w h i c h

c a n e x p l a i n t h e e n o r m o u s p r o p o r t i o n s o f B u d d h i s m . B o t h

i n t h e E a s t a n d W e s t i n t e r e s t a n d e n t h u s i a s m c e n tr e i n

t h e s u p p o s e d o r t h e r e a l m a n . W h a t m a n k i n d w a n t i s a

d i v i n e m a s t e r , a p r e t e r n a t u r a l p e r s o n ; a n d w h e n t h e p a r -

t i c u l a r c a u s e o r u r g e n t o c c a s i o n w h i c h r a i s e d t h e l e a d e r

i n t o e m i n e n c e h a s d i s a p p e a r e d t h e a u t h o r i t y o f h i s n a m e

r e m a i n s t o b e c l a i m e d a n d u t i l i z e d a s a l a b e l b y e a c h a n d

e v e r y c o m p e t i t i v e s e c t a n d s c h o o l o f p h i l o s o p h y . T h e r e

h a v e t h u s b e e n t w o B u d d h a s r u n n i n g s i d e b y s i d e t h r o u g h

t h e a g e s , - t h e T e a c h e r a n d t h e m i r a c u l o u s P e r s o n . W e

o w e . t o a f e w m o d e r n s c h o l a r s , a n d c h i e f l y t o P r o f e s s o r

T . W . R h y s D a v i d s , L L . D . , t h e d i s c o v e r y o f a r e a l i n d i -

v i d u a l u n d e r a l l t h o s e l e g e n d a r y a n d s p i r i t i s t i c w r a p p a g e s

w h i c h S i r E d w i n A r n o l d h a s g l o r i f i e d i n " T h e L i g h t o f

A s i a . " T h e r e w a s t h e n a g r e a t m a n n a m e d S i d d h a r t h a ,

b u t h e h a s l e f t n o w r i t i n g s , a n d i t i s d i f f i c u l t t o d i s c o v e r

i n t e a c h i n g s a s c r i b e d t o h i m a n y o r i g i n a l i d e a o f a n

a f f i r m a t i v e o r c o n s t r u c t i v e k i n d . T h e p h e n o m e n a s e e m

t o i m p l y v a s t a n d r a d i c a l n e g a t i o n s .

I f t h e r e i s a n y t h i n g h i s t o r i c a l a b o u t S i d d h a r t h a i t i s

t h a t h e d e n i e d t h e e x i s t e n c e o f a n y d e i t y , a n d d e n i e d

c o n s c i o u s i m m o r t a l i t y . A n d n o o n e w h o h a s s t u d i e d t h e

s u p e r s t i t i o n s t h a t p a s s e d f o r G ° r e l i g i o n " i n h i s t i m e c a n

w o n d e r t h a t c l e a r a n c e o f t h e u n i v e r s e f r o m d e i f i e d p h a n -

t a s m s a n d s u b s t i t u t i o n o f e t e r n a l r e p o s e f o r a f r i g h t f u l



LECTURE IN COLOMBO 1 2 9

f u t u r e w e r e t h e n g l a d t i d i n g s . O f c o u r s e e v o l u t i o n a r y

l a w s m o d i f i e d s u c h n e g a t i o n s . I f N i r v a n a ( a n n i h i l a t i o n )

i s t h e s u p r e m e t h i n g t h e u n b o r n a r e t h e r e , a n d n o l o g i c a l

B u d d h i s t c o u l d b r i n g a n y h u m a n b e i n g i n t o e x i s t e n c e .

T h e i r r a c e w o u l d c o m e t o a n e n d .

O n m y a r r i v a l i n C e y l o n a d e l e g a t i o n o f y o u n g B r a h -

m a n s a n d B u d d h i s t s h a d i n v i t e d m e t o g i v e a p u b l i c l e c -

t u r e o n C h r i s t m a s d a y , a n d I c o n s e n t e d . I h a d w i t h m e

a c o m p a r a t i v e s t u d y o f t h e B i r t h - l e g e n d s o f J e s u s a n d

S a k y a m u n i , o f w h i c h m o d i f i c a t i o n s w e r e s u g g e s t e d b y m y

e x p e r i e n c e i n C e y l o n . T h e l e c t u r e w a s a p p o i n t e d f o r t h e

a f t e r n o o n , a n d I p a s s e d t h e m o r n i n g i n t h e g r e a t C o l o m b o

t e m p l e . T h e r e , i n a s e r i e s o f a n c i e n t f r e s c o e s , t h e E a r t h -

w a r d P i l g r i m a g e o f B u d d h a i s t o l d . T h e e a r t h b l o s s o m s

w h e n h e i s b o r n , a l l g e m s i n t h e e a r t h s e n d u p f l a m e s ,

a n d f r o m a f a r W i s e M e n ( n o t a n g e l s ) c o m e t o f o r e t e l l

p e a c e a n d g o o d w i l l o f m a n t o m a n . I n a n o t h e r p i c t u r e

t h e b a b e i s s e e n w a l k i n g , a n d e v e r y s t e p b r i n g s f o r t h

a l o t o s f l o w e r . T h e l e g e n d a r y s i g n o f C h r i s t ' s b i r t h i s a

s t a r ; t h a t o f B u d d h a ' s b i r t h a f l o w e r .

A w o n d r o u s C h r i s t m a s d a y f o r m e ! T h e B r a h m a n s

a n d B u d d h i s t s h a d u n i t e d t o m a k e m y l e c t u r e a g r a n d

e v e n t ; c a n o p i e s h a d b e e n r a i s e d o v e r a l a r g e o p e n s p a c e ;

a platform had been made for leading natives, and

b e n c h e s f o r t h e c r o w d , w h i c h w a s l a r g e , t h e l e c t u r e b e i n g

g r a t u i t o u s . A l l h a d c o m e i n f i n e r a i m e n t , - m a n y - c o l -

o u r e d r o b e s , j e w e l l e d t u r b a n s , - and nothing European

t o m a r t h e e f f e c t . Around us were no walls but palms

a n d f l o w e r s .

W a s i t a d r e a m ? H o w h a d I g o t t h e r e ? Was I in

a n y s e n s e t h e s a m e a s t h a t M e t h o d i s t y o u t h w h o t h i r t y -

t w o y e a r s b e f o r e h a d l e f t h i s h o m e b e s i d e t h e R a p p a -

h a n n o c k t o p r e a c h M e t h o d i s m ?



1 3 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

I w a s a s s u r e d t h a t m y e v e r y h e a r e r u n d e r s t o o d E n g l i s h ,

t h a t m o s t o f t h e m w e r e f a m i l i a r w i t h r e l i g i o u s d i s c u s s i o n s ,

a n d s o m e w e r e m e n o f l e t t e r s . T h e o b j e c t o f m y l e c t u r e

was not to establish resemblances between the Birth-

legends of Christ and Buddha, but rather to point out

t h a t i n t h e i r r e s p e c t i v e m y t h s w e r e r e f l e c t e d t h e i r d i f f e r -

ent aims, -one, happiness in another world ; t h e o t h e r ,

h a p p i n e s s i n t h i s w o r l d .

Beside me on the platform sat Sumangala, Priest of

Adam's Peak, Primate of the Buddhist world, with whom

I a f t e r w a r d s h a d m u c h c o n v e r s a t i o n . He was amiable as

w e l l a s e r u d i t e a n d a c u t e . O u r f i r s t c o n v e r s a t i o n r e l a t e d

t o t h e T h e o s o p h i s t s , w h o h a d a h a l l i n C o l o m b o i n

which I heard a Buddhist neophyte preach Sunday morn-

i n g , i n E n g l i s h , a s e r m o n s h o w i n g f a m i l i a r i t y w i t h I n g e r -

s o l l ' s w o r k s . In the recent attack of Catholics on the

B u d d h i s t p r o c e s s i o n , C o l o n e l O l c o t t h a d h a s t e n e d t o

C o l o m b o a n d d e m a n d e d o f t h e g o v e r n m e n t r e d r e s s f o r t h e

Buddhists. These were naturally grateful to him , but

Sumangala was troubled by the expositions of Buddhism

given by the Theosophists . T h e p r e t e n d e d M a h a t m a s ,

such as "Kotthume," he declared non-existent . In Bud-

d h i s t t r a d i t i o n s t h e r e w e r e f a m o u s a n c i e n t R i s h i s , b u t t h e y

a r e n o w t h o u g h t o f o n l y a s A b r a h a m a n d o t h e r p a t r i a r c h s

a r e b y C h r i s t i a n s ; n o r e a l B u d d h i s t i m a g i n e s a n y o f t h e m

s t i l l l i v i n g .

T h e P r i e s t o f A d a m ' s P e a k p r e s i d e s o v e r W i d y o a y a

C o l l e g e , t h e B u d d h i s t i n s t i t u t i o n s o m e m i l e s o u t o f C o -

lombo, whose faculty invited me to mee t them and the

s t u d e n t s t h e r e . M y p a r t i c u l a r f r i e n d , t h e H o n . P . Rama-

nathan (Brahman), solicitor-general of Ceylon, called

t o s a y t h a t i f I w o u l d g o h e w o u l d a c c o m p a n y m e a n d

i n t e r p r e t w h a t w a s s a i d . I t w a s a r r a n g e d t h a t t h e s e a n c e



mma oxmv ao igaimi'vavoxvicas



AT WIDYOAYA COLLEGE 1 3 1

s h o u l d o c c u r a b o u t d a w n , i n o r d e r t o e s c a p e t h e h e a t i n

o u r d r i v e . M r . Ramanathan came to my hotel with his

carriage at daybreak, and we drove five or six miles

t h r o u g h t h e e n c h a n t e d l a n d . F o r b y t h i s t i m e I h a d

f a i r l y d e l i v e r e d m y s e l f u p t o t h e s e n s e o f b e i n g i n F a i r y -

l a n d , a n d i t w a s w i t h o u t a n y s u r p r i s e t h a t I a l i g h t e d a t

t h e i d e a l c o l l e g e .

A b o u t t w e n t y - f i v e w e r e p r e s e n t , a t h i r d o f t h e m b e i n g

p r i e s t s , o t h e r s P a l i s c h o l a r s a n d y o u n g s t u d e n t s . T h e y

w e r e a l l B u d d h i s t s e x c e p t t h e f r i e n d w h o c a m e w i t h m e ,

h e b e i n g , h o w e v e r , a s y m p a t h e t i c s t u d e n t o f B u d d h i s t l i t -

e r a t u r e . I w a s c o n d u c t e d t o a c h a i r i n f r o n t o f t h e c h i e f

p r i e s t , w h o s a t o n a c i r c u l a r p l a t f o r m , w i t h a t a b l e b e f o r e

h i m , o n w h i c h l a y h i s a n c i e n t p a l m - l e a f b o o k s . W e w e r e

s h e l t e r e d f r o m t h e g l o w i n g s k y , b u t n o w a l l s w e r e a r o u n d

u s . T h e p a l m - t r e e s r u s t l e d i n t h e b r e e z e , t h e b i r d s s a n g

t h e i r m a t i n s , t h e b r e a t h o f f l o w e r s a n d b l o s s o m i n g t r e e s

i n t e r f u s e d i n c e n s e o f t h e f r e s h d a y w i t h t h o u g h t s t h a t ,

after two thousand years, had power to blossom out of

their palm leaves and send forth an odour sweeter than

l a u r e l o r l o t o s . Sumangala in his orange-coloured gar-

m e n t s m i l e d o n u s a l l a s b e t o o k h i s p l a c e . O p e n i n g o n e

o f t h e t h r e e P i t a k a s , t h e A r u g u t t a - r a n i k a y a S u t t a , w r i t t e n

b e f o r e 2 5 0 B . c . , h e r e a d i n a c l e a r s w e e t v o i c e B u d d h a ' s

plea for free thought -then never translated into Eng-

lish and to me new . A t c e r t a i n p a r t s h e w a s m o v e d , h i s

v o i c e t e n d e d t o i n t o n e , a n d h i s e y e s r o s e g l o w i n g u p o n u s ,

as if demanding homage for sublime ideas . I o b t a i n e d

a c a r e f u l v e r s i o n o f t h e p a s s a g e a s r e a d ( S u m a n g a l a b a d

s l i g h t l y a b b r e v i a t e d i t ) , a n d i t i s h e r e g i v e n .

Buddha came to Bihar . T h e r e c e r t a i n p r i n c e s w e l c o m e d

him, telling him whence they came . They said : 1 1 V a r i -

o u s p r i e s t s a n d B r a h m a n s p a s s t h r o u g h o u r t o w n s a n d



1 32 MY PILGRIMAGE

p r e a c h t h e i r o w n d o c t r i n e s , s p e a k i n g i l l o f t h e d o c t r i n e s o f

o t h e r s . E a c h s e t i s f o l l o w e d b y a n o t h e r , w h o t e l l u s w h a t

w a s p r e a c h e d b e f o r e t h e m i s n o t t r u e , s a y i n g ' L i s t e n t o

u s ! ' T h e y w h o g o i n t o a n d t h e y w h o c o m e f r o m t h e w i l d e r -

ness meet here . T h u s o u r m i n d i s u n s e t t l e d ; we do not

k n o w w h a t t o b e l i e v e ." Buddha said : " T h a t i s b u t n a t u -

r a l . Now hear what I have to say ! Accept not the doc-

t r i n e s t h a t a r e m e r e h e a r s a y - w h a t s o m e b o d y s a y s a n o t h e r

i s p r e a c h i n g . N o d o c t r i n e i s t o b e a c c e p t e d b e c a u s e b e l i e v e d

b y o n e ' s f a t h e r o r g r a n d f a t h e r . Sometimes a clever man

c l o t h e s a d o c t r i n e i n f i n e l a n g u a g e . Not because a doc-

t r i n e i s t h u s d e c o r a t e d i s i t t o b e b e l i e v e d . Not because a

d o c t r i n e i s w r i t t e n i n a b o o k i s i t t o b e b e l i e v e d . S o m e -

t i m e s a p r e a c h e r w i l l e x p r e s s a d o c t r i n e l o g i c a l l y ; b u t

n o t b e c a u s e i t i s s o e x p r e s s e d i s i t t o b e b e l i e v e d . S o m e -

t i m e s a d o c t r i n e i s c o n v e y e d b y t h e N y a y a s y s t e m o f

l o g i c , b u t n o t e v e n f o r t h a t i s i t t o b e a c c e p t e d . S o m e -

t i m e s a d o c t r i n e m a y a p p e a r a c c e p t a b l e o n i t s f a c e ; n o t

m e r e l y f o r t h a t i s i t t o b e b e l i e v e d . Sometimes a preacher

c a t e r s t o t h e e x i s t i n g b e l i e f o f h i s h e a r e r s ; n o t f o r t h a t i s

h i s d o c t r i n e t o b e b e l i e v e d . N o t b e c a u s e a p r e a c h e r c o n -

d u c t s h i m s e l f a c c o r d i n g t o o r t h o d o x r u l e s i s h i s d o c t r i n e

t o b e b e l i e v e d . N o t b e c a u s e y o u r m a s t e r o r t e a c h e r s a y s

i t i s t r u e s h o u l d y o u a c c e p t a d o c t r i n e .

" B u t t h i s i s t h e w a y d o c t r i n e s h o u l d b e a c c e p t e d . In

y o u r o w n m i n d y o u m u s t j u d g e . W h a t t h e w i s e h a v e

r e j e c t e d , a n d y o u y o u r s e l f k n o w t o b e b a d , t h a t r e j e c t .

There is covetousness ; w i l l i t b r i n g g o o d o r e v i l?"

"Evil," answered the princes . " T h e c o v e t e o u s m a n , "

s a i d B u d d h a , " m i g h t m u r d e r , s t e a l , c o m m i t a d u l t e r y , b e a r

false witness, influencing others and causing them to

f o l l o w h i s w a y s ; w i l l h e n o t s u f f e r a l o n g t i m e ? " " Y e s , "

t h e y r e p l i e d . ` ° S u p p o s i n g h a t r e d e n g e n d e r e d , w i l l g o o d

o r e v i l f o l l o w ? T h r o u g h h a t r e d a m a n m a y m u r d e r , s t e a l ,

b e a r f a l s e w i t n e s s ; w i l l h e n o t s u f f e r p a i n ? " " Y e s , " r e -

p l i e d t h e p r i n c e s . " M e n t a l o b s c u r i t y , d e m e r i t s , c r i m e s

-h a v e t h e w i s e p r a i s e d o r r e j e c t e d t h e m ? " " T h e y h a v e

rejected them . " " I f o n e a c c e p t s t h e s e a s g o o d , e v i l w i l l

f o l l o w . I f a m a n p u r i f i e s h i s m i n d o f c o v e t o u s n e s s , h e

w i l l e n j o y h a p p i n e s s . If a man destroys all hatred, he



BUDDHIST PRIESTS OF C EYLON



BUDDHA'S DOCTRINE 1 3 3

w i l l e n j o y h a p p i n e s s . I f a m a n h a v e w i s d o m , h e w i l l e n j o y

a l l h a p p i n e s s . Now ye have judged for yourselves . H e

w h o c o v e t s n o t , w h o h a t e s n o t , i s t h e d i s c i p l e o f B u d d h a .

G o o d w i l l c o m e t o h i m ; h e w i l l b e e n l i g h t e n e d , h e w i l l

l o v e a l l b e i n g s . H e w i l l b e m e r c i f u l , h e w i l l b e h a p p y i n

o t h e r s ' h a p p i n e s s . H e w i l l n o t h a t e o n e a n d l o v e a n o t h e r ,

but be equal toward all . H i s f r i e n d s h i p , m e r c i f u l n e s s ,

s y m p a t h y , g o o d w i l l , s h a l l g o f o r t h t o a l l . His equanimity

s h a l l b e b o u n d l e s s . I n t h i s l i f e h e w i l l o b t a i n f e a r l e s s n e s s

i n - f o u r t h i n g s : H e m a y s a y , ' I f t h e r e b e a n o t h e r w o r l d ,

a n d i f i l l o r w e l l a f f e c t s i t , I s h a l l b e h a p p y . I f t h e r e b e

n o o t h e r w o r l d , I h a v e h a r m e d n o n e a n d b e n e f i t e d o t h e r s ,

a n d a m h a p p y . I f a f t e r d e a t h o n l y t h e w i c k e d s u f f e r , I

have done no evil, and need not fear . If there be no

p u n i s h m e n t f o r t h e w i c k e d , I a m s e c u r e . " ' B u d d h a s a i d

t o t h e p r i n c e s : " A r e t h e s e d o c t r i n e s g o o d o r b a d? "

T h e y r e p l i e d , " T h e y a r e g o o d ; b e t t e r t h a n a n y t a u g h t

u s b e f o r e , " a n d t h e y b e c a m e h i s d i s c i p l e s .

So ended the reading from the Sutta, and for a few

moments there was silence . M r . Ramanathan whispered

t o m e : "Is it not strange that you and I, come from

f a r d i f f e r e n t r e l i g i o n s a n d r e g i o n s , s h o u l d t o g e t h e r l i s t e n

t o a s e r m o n f r o m B u d d h a i n f a v o u r o f t h a t f r e e t h o u g h t ,

t h a t i n d e p e n d e n c e o f t r a d i t i o n a l a n d f a s h i o n a b l e d o c t r i n e s ,

w h i c h i s s t i l l t h e v i t a l p r i n c i p l e o f h u m a n d e v e l o p m e n t ? "

"Y e s , " I s a i d ,

"a n d w e , w i t h t h e p r i n c e s , p r o n o u n c e h i s

d o c t r i n e s g o o d . " To me, indeed, it was thrilling that

f r o m a p a s t o f s e v e n t y g e n e r a t i o n s s h o u l d c o m e t h i s v o i c e

s u m m o n i n g m a n t o r e s t h i s f a i t h o n h i s o w n r e a s o n , a n d

t r u s t h i s l i f e f o r e t e r n i t y t o v i r t u e s r o o t e d i n h i s o w n

c o n s c i o u s n e s s .

I n v i t e d t o q u e s t i o n , I a s k e d t h e p r i e s t a b o u t c o v e t o u s -

ness, and why it occupied such a cardinal place among

t h e s i n s . I o b s e r v e d t h a t a l l c o m m e r c e i s d e v e l o p e d f r o m

m a n ' s d e s i r e f o r w h a t b e l o n g s t o h i s n e i g h b o u r . I asked

w h e t h e r i t m i g h t n o t b e p o s s i b l e t h a t o r i g i n a l l y t h e c o v e t -



1 3 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

o u s e y e m e a n t t h e e v i l e y e ; i t b e i n g s t i l l b e l i e v e d i n s o m e

p a r t s o f E n g l a n d t h a t i f o n e s t r o n g l y d e s i r e s a t h i n g b e -

l o n g i n g t o a n o t h e r , t h a t t h i n g m a y b e s o r e n d e r e d u s e l e s s

t o i t s o w n e r o r e v e n d e s t r o y e d . The priests knew of no

s u c h s u p e r s t i t i o n , a n d S u m a n g a l a s a i d t h a t c o v e t o u s n e s s

w a s n o t a s s o c i a t e d w i t h t h e t h i n g s a m a n d e s i r e d t o e x -

change, and that it was regarded by Buddhism as espe-

c i a l l y e v i l b e c a u s e o f i t s l a s t i n g e f f e c t s . " T h e r e a r e s h o r t

s i n s a n d l o n g s i n s . A n g e r i s a g r e a t s i n , b u t d o e s n o t l a s t

l o n g . C o v e t o u s n e s s i s a s m a l l s i n , b u t e n d u r e s l o n g a n d

g r o w s . E v e n i f a m a n l o v e s h i s o w n t h i n g s s t r o n g l y , i t

brings unhappiness ; s t i l l m o r e i f h e s t r o n g l y d e s i r e s

w h a t b e l o n g s t o o t h e r s . H e c a n n o t a s c e n d i n t h e p a t h t o

N i r v a n a , - t h e e x t i n c t i o n o f d e s i r e . T h e r e a r e f i v e s i n s

e s p e c i a l l y d e s t r u c t i v e o f w h a t b e a r s m a n t o N i r v a n a , a n d

t h e s e w e r e c k o n w o r s t , t h o u g h i n i m m e d i a t e e f f e c t s t h e y

may ap pear least . " " But suppose," I asked, " a m a n

s t r o n g l y d e s i r e s t o g o t o h e a v e n ; i s t h a t c o v e t o u s n e s s ? "

" Y e s , " s a i d t h e p r i e s t , r e s t i n g h i s c h i n u p o n t h e t a b l e

a n d l e v e l l i n g h i s e y e s l i k e a r r o w s a t t h e h e a d o f C h r i s t i a n

f a i t h ; " y e s , i t i s c o v e t o u s n e s s t o d e s i r e p a r a d i s e s t r o n g l y .

O n e w h o g o e s t h e r e w i t h s u c h d e s i r e s i s a s a f l y s t u c k

fast in honey . P a r a d i s e i s n o t e t e r n a l . O n e w h o g o e s

there must die and be born again elsewhere . Only the

d e s i r e f o r N i r v a n a e s c a p e s f r o m t h e m e s h t h a t e n t a n g l e s

a l l o t h e r d e s i r e s , b e c a u s e i t i s n o t d e s i r e f o r a n y o b j e c t a t

a l l ." I asked : " H a v e t h o s e w h o a r e i n N i r v a n a a n y c o n -

s c i o u s n e s s ? " I w a s t h e n i n f o r m e d t h a t t h e r e i s n o S i n -

h a l e s e w o r d f o r c o n s c i o u s n e s s . S u m a n g a l a s a i d , " T o r e a c h

N i r v a n a i s t o b e n o m o r e . " I p o i n t e d t o a s t o n e s t e p a n d

s a i d : " O n e i s t h e r e o n l y a s t h a t s t o n e i s h e r e ? " " N o t

s o m u c h , " a n s w e r e d t h e p r i e s t ; " f o r t h e s t o n e i s a c t u a l l y

h e r e , b u t i n N i r v a n a t h e r e i s n o e x i s t e n c e a t a l l . "



H ON . P . R A M A N A T H A N , S O L I C I T OR G E N E R A L O F C EYL O N



THINGS RIGHT YET SINFUL 1 3 5

A few days after this interview I received from the

h i g h p r i e s t a n i n v i t a t i o n t o r e n e w o u r c o n v e r s a t i o n a t t h e

P a l i C o l l e g e . O n t h i s o c c a s i o n h e h a d w i t h h i m s e v e r a l

o f t h e m o s t e m i n e n t p r i e s t s i n C e y l o n , a n d g e n e r a l l y c o n -

s u l t e d t h e m b e f o r e g i v i n g m e a n s w e r s . I enquired about

the Buddhist doctrine of never taking the life of any

c r e a t u r e . T h i s d o c t r i n e h e a f f i r m e d v e r y s t r o n g l y . I p u t

a c r u c i a l t e s t : a m a n s e e s a t i g e r a b o u t t o l e a p o n h i s

c h i l d ; a g u n i s i n h i s h a n d ; s h o u l d h e k i l l t h e t i g e r o r

l e t i t k i l l t h e c h i l d ? T h e r e w a s c o n s i d e r a b l e c o n s u l t a t i o n

a m o n g t h e p r i e s t s o v e r t h i s c r u x , a t t h e e n d o f w h i c h I

r e c e i v e d t h e f o l l o w i n g r e p l y : " I t w o u l d b e r i g h t t o k i l l

t h e t i g e r , b u t i t w o u l d b e a s i n . " T o p e r s o n s u n f a m i l i a r

w i t h t h e o l o g y t h i s m i g h t a p p e a r a s u p e r s u b t l e d i s t i n c t i o n .

I n f a c t , h o w e v e r , i n w e s t e r n a s w e l l a s o r i e n t a l t h e o l o g y

t h e r e a r e t h i n g s a t o n c e r i g h t a n d s i n f u l . In England it

is sinful to disobey the New Testament, yet if a man

strictly obeys the prescription for the sick given in

J a m e s v , 1 4 , a n d d o e s n o t s e e k m e d i c a l a i d f o r h i s s i c k

c h i l d , t h e l a w h o l d s h i m g u i l t y i f t h e c h i l d d i e s . T h e

development of a similar anomaly in Buddhism suggests

t h a t t h e s o - c a l l e d " atheism " o f Bu dd ha h im se l f wa s no t

p h i l o s o p h i c a l a n t i - s u p e r n a t u r a l i s m b u t m o r a l i n s u r r e c t i o n

against the vile and cruel phantasms of pop ular fear .

Buddha's Sinhalese hymn would run -W h a t t h o u g h t h e s p i c y b r e e z e s

B l o w s o f t o ' e r C e y l o n ' s i s l e ;

T h o u g h e v e r y p r o s p e c t p l e a s e s

A n d o n l y g o d s a r e v i l e .

B u t h i s p u r e l y h u m a n p r o t e s t s h a r e d t h e f a t e o f e v e r y

r e l i g i o n i n v e s t e d w i t h s u p e r n a t u r a l i s m : i t w i l l d e v e l o p

t h e o l o g i c a l , i . e . f i c t i t i o u s , n o t i o n s o f r i g h t a n d w r o n g

w i t h t h e i n v a r i a b l e r e s u l t t h a t t h e r e a l i s s u b o r d i n a t e d t o



1 3 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

the unreal good and evil . I t i s p o s s i b l e , h o w e v e r , t h a t

B u d d h i s m c a u g h t t h i s n o t i o n o f " s i n " f r o m C h r i s t i a n i t y .

I f B i s h o p H e b e r h a d b e e n a s k e d a b o u t t h e p e o p l e o f

Ceylon, after his visit the re in 1826, he would have

described them as innocent and kind ; his word "vile "

means no more than the L ° m i s e r a b l e s i n n e r s " which pure

English maidens and children call themselves in their

L i t a n y ; i t h a s n o t hi n g t o d o w i t h h u m a n v i r t u e s o r

morals, but with mysterious failures in observances or

e t i q u e t t e t o w a r d s G o d . T h i s i s t h e S o l o m o n i c e x p l a n a t i o n

o f t h e r e a s o n w h y b e n e f i t s c o m e t o t h e u n j u s t a s w e l l a s

t o t h e j u s t . A hundred offences will not harm one who

f e a r s G o d p r o p e r l y . (Eccles . v i i i , 1 3 , 1 4 . )

Every Buddhist priest I met impressed me favourably .

T h e y a r e c e l i b a t e , b u t i t i s p e r f e c t l y e a s y f o r o n e w h o

w i s h e s t o m a r r y t o " d i s r o b e , " a s t h e y s a y ; h e i s n o t d i s -

l i k e d . Possibly this complacency is the result of old

e x p e r i e n c e . O n e o f t h e m t o l d m e a n a m u s i n g l e g e n d

a g o d d i s g u i s e d h i m s e l f a s a m o n s t e r d o g w h o s e f u n c t i o n

was to devour immoral priests ; i m m e d i a t e l y e v e r y m o n -

a s t e r y b e c a m e v a c a n t ! E a s y d i v o r c e f r o m p r i e s t h o o d

a p p e a r e d p r e f e r a b l e . I f a p r i e s t " f a l l s " w i t h o u t ° " d i s -

r o b i n g " h e i s d i s g r a c e d .

S u b h u t i t o l d m e t h a t t h e r e w a s o n c e a b o d y o f f e m a l e

p r i e s t s i n C e y l o n . I t w a s n e c e s s a r y f o r a w o m a n t o o r d a i n

a w o m a n . T h e l i n e b e c a m e e x t i n c t , h e s a i d , b y r e a s o n o f

the wars . In telling me this, Subhuti suggested to me

m o r e t h a n h e i n t e n d e d . I t h e l p e d t o c o n f i r m m y b e l i e f

that the inferior position of woman and her political

d i s a b i l i t y w e r e d u e t o h e r u n f i t n e s s f o r b l o o d s h e d .

In 1906 it may be pardoned that Reginald Heber, a

y o u n g t h e o l o g i a n o f 1 8 2 6 , i g n o r a n t o f C e y l o n o r i t s l a n -



MAKE-BELIEVE MOSLEMS 1 3 7

g u a g e o r r e l i g i o n , w r o t e s u c h l i n e s a s " t h e y c a l l u s t o

d e l i v e r t h e i r l a n d f r o m e r r o r ' s c h a i n , " " o n l y m a n i s v i l e , "

" b o w s d o w n t o w o o d a n d s t o n e " ( t h e c h i e f e x a m p l e o f

bowing to wood being homage to a cross from which the

c r u c i f i e d h a s v a n i s h e d ) . T h a t i s p a r d o n a b l e ; b u t t h a t s u c h

a hymn should remain in any modern hymnal can gratify

o n l y t h o s e w h o f i n d s a t i s f a c t i o n i n e v e r y t h i n g d i s c r e d i t -

a b l e t o C h r i s t i a n m i s s i o n s . I t d o e s n o t g r a t i f y m e , b e c a u s e

I k n o w t h a t w h e r e t h e P r o t e s t a n t m i s s i o n a r y b e c o m e s

incompetent there is a soldier behind him able to make

u p f o r h i s f a i l u r e .

W e h a d a s t o r y i n L o n d o n o f t w o y o u n g E n g l i s h

s c h o l a r s ( I w i l l n o t n a m e t h e m ) p e r f e c t e d i n e a s t e r n l a n -

g u a g e s , w h o w e r e t r a v e l l i n g t o g e t h e r i n A r a b i a . They had

got themselves up with the exact Arab complexion and

d r e s s . A t o n e o l d v i l l a g e w h e r e t h e y a r r i v e d t h e y f o u n d

t h e m s e l v e s w i t h o u t m o n e y , t h e i r L o n d o n r e m i t t a n c e s b e i n g

s e n t t o a f a r t h e r c i t y . While thinking what to do they

o b s e r v e d a d e s e r t e d m o s q u e i n b a d c o n d i t i o n . T h e y

a w a i t e d t h e p r o p e r h o u r f o r M o s l e m p r a y e r , a n d f r o m t h e

l i t t l e o u t s i d e p u l p i t s o u n d e d t h e l o u d u s u a l c a l l . T h e

s t a r t l e d v i l l a g e r s h a s t e n e d o u t , a n d t h e t w o s t a i n e d E n g -

l i s h m e n r e c i t e d f i n e s t p a s s a g e s f r o m t h e K o r a n , p r o f e s s e d a

m i s s i o n t o l o o k a f t e r a l l d e s o l a t i o n s , a n d w a r n e d t h e m t o

r e n o v a t e t h a t m o s q u e o r e l s e p r e p a r e f o r h e l l . Then they

t o o k u p a g o o d c o l l e c t i o n a n d w e n t o n t h e i r w a y r e j o i c i n g .

I f a n y o f t h e B e d o u i n s h a d s u s p i c i o n s t h e y w e r e a l l a y e d

b y t h e c o l l e c t i o n . T h e c o l l e c t i o n i s a s i g n o f o r t h o d o x y i n

a l l r e l i g i o n s .

Both of these masqueraders were admirers of Moha m-

m e d , a n d o n e o f t h e m a l w a y s c a l l e d h i m s e l f a M o s l e m .

B u t p r a c t i c a l l y h e c o u l d h a r d l y b e a M o s l e m . I t a p -

p e a r s t h a t n o n e o f t h e o l d e r r e l i g i o n s n o w w i s h t o m a k e



1 3 8 MY PILGRIMAGE

c o n v e r t s . They are pleased by the sympathy of aliens

w i t h t h e i r d o c t r i n e s , b u t i t i s d o u b t f u l i f a n y o n e b o r n

o u t s i d e c o u l d o b t a i n p r a c t i c a l m e m b e r s h i p a s a B r a h m a n ,

P a r s i , B u d d h i s t , o r I s r a e l i t e . Buddhism, Christianity,

a n d I s l a m s t a r t e d a s m i s s i o n a r y r e l i g i o n s , b u t n o w C h r i s -

t i a n i t y a l o n e s e e m s t o b e v e r y a c t i v e i n t h a t r e s p e c t , a n d

its older churches seem tending to confine missions to

t h e i r o w n s c a t t e r e d f l o c k s .

I t i s n o j o k e w h e n t h e y o u n g e s t o f n a t i o n s , w h o s e c o n -

s t i t u t i o n i g n o r e s r e l i g i o n , s t a i n s i t s e l f m o r a l l y w i t h p r e -

c i s e l y t h a t c r i m i n a l c o m p l e x i o n w h i c h w a s o n c e a t t r i b u t e d

t o M o h a m m e d a n i s m . F i f t y y e a r s a g o P r o t e s t a n t p r e a c h -

e r s w e r e n e v e r w e a r y o f a c c u s i n g M o h a m m e d o f p r o p a -

gating his religion by the sword ; but in the opening

t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y , o u r g o v e r n m e n t s e n d s w a r s h i p s t o t h e

chief Moslem natio n and says in effect, "Pay for that

A m e r i c a n m i s s i o n a r y p r o p e r t y d a m a g e d b y a m o b o r w e

will murder your people and burn your capital . " A n d I

h e a r d a m i s s i o n a r y , l e c t u r i n g i n o u r C e n t u r y C l u b , N e w

Y o r k , b o a s t t h a t b y t h i s m e n a c e t h e A m e r i c a n m i s s i o n w a s

t h e o n l y o n e t h a t g o t i t s m o n e y ! O f c o u r s e , s o l o n g a s

c o m f o r t a b l e " c o l l e c t i o n s " c a n b e m a d e i n t h i s w a y i t c a n

h a r d l y b e e x p e c t e d t h a t c h u r c h e s w i l l t u r n f r o m t h e s p u -

r i o u s " G o y e i n t o a l l t h e w o r l d , " t o t h e g e n u i n e w o r d s ,

" G o n o t i n t o a n y w a y o f t h e G e n t i l e s , a n d e n t e r n o t

i n t o a n y c i t y o f t h e S a m a r i t a n s . " " I f t h e y p e r s e c u t e y o u

i n o n e c i t y , g o t o t h e n e x t . " T h a t w i l l n o t d o f o r m i s s i o n -

a r i e s w r a p p e d i n t h e s t a r s a n d s t r i p e s !

But how far have we fallen below President George

W a s h i n g t o n , w h o i n 1 7 96 s e n t t o t h e S e n a t e a t r e a t y

w i t h T r i p o l i , w h o s e o p e n i n g w o r d s a r e t h e s e : -

As the Government of the United States of America

i s n o t i n a n y s e n s e f o u n d e d o n t h e C h r i s t i a n r e l i g i o n , -



AN ANGLO-AMERICAN FUNCTION 139

a s i t h a s i n i t s e l f n o c h a r a c t e r o f e n m i t y a g a i n s t t h e l a w s ,

r e l i g i o n , o r t r a n q u i l l i t y o f M u s s u l m a n s , -a n d a s t h e s a i d

S t a t e s h a v e n e v e r e n t e r e d i n t o a n y w a r o r a c t o f h o s t i l i t y

a g a i n s t a n y M a h o m e t a n n a t i o n , i t i s d e c l a r e d b y t h e p a r -

t i e s t h a t n o p r e t e x t a r i s i n g f r o m r e l i g i o u s o p i n i o n s s h a l l

e v e r p r o d u c e a n i n t e r r u p t i o n o f t h e h a r m o n y e x i s t i n g b e -

t w e e n t h e t w o c o u n t r i e s .

O n J u l y 3 , 1 8 7 2 , S t . P a u l ' s C a t h e d r a l , L o n d o n , w a s t h e

s c e n e o f a c o m b i n a t i o n o f f u n c t i o n s o f i n t e r n a t i o n a l i n t e r -

e s t . A l a r g e n u m b e r o f d i g n i t a r i e s o f t h e E n g l i s h C h u r c h

g a t h e r e d o n t h a t W e d n e s d a y t o r e c e i v e a p r e s e n t f r o m

t h e A m e r i c a n E p i s c o p a l C h u r c h . T h i s w a s a s i l v e r a l m s -

b a s i n . I t w a s b r o u g h t b y t h e e m i n e n t B i s h o p M c l l v a i n e

o f O h i o , w h o w a s a n e x c e l l e n t r e p r e s e n t a t i v e o f t h e

A m e r i c a n c l e r i c a l t y p e a s d i s t i n c t f r o m t h e E n g l i s h .

H e h a d a n i n t e l l e c t u a l f a c e , d e l i c a t e f e a t u r e s u n d e r a

s t r o n g f o r e h e a d . D r e s s e d i n p l a i n b l a c k , h e b o r e t h e e n o r -

m o u s b a s i n ( n e a r l y a y a r d i n d i a m e t e r ) u p t o t h e a l t a r ,

w h e r e h e h a d t o s u p p o r t i t w h i l e t h e B i s h o p o f L i c h f i e l d

g a v e a n a d d r e s s . T h i s b i s h o p t h e n r e c e i v e d t h e b a s i n a n d

c a r r i e d i t b e f o r e t h e a l t a r ; t h e r e h e w a s m e t b y t h e A r c h -

b i s h o p o f C a n t e r b u r y , b e f o r e w h o m h e k n e e l e d , a n d w h o

m a d e a g o o d f r a t e r n a l a d d r e s s . T h e a r c h b i s h o p t h e n s e t

t h e b a s i n o n t h e c o m m u n i o n t a b l e , a n d p r o c e e d e d t o r e a d

t h e t e x t s s u g g e s t i v e o f a l m s . T h e r e w e r e a b o u t t e n o t h e r

b i s h o p s p r e s e n t , w i t h a g r e a t d e a l o f s c a r l e t i n t h e i r r o b e s ,

a n d e a c h i n s u c c e s s i o n w a l k e d u p a l o n e , k n e l t b e f o r e t h e

b a s i n , d r o p p e d a c o i n i n t o i t , a n d r e t i r e d . ( I s a w a J a p -

a n e s e n e a r m e m a k e a n o t e o f t h i s a p p a r e n t w o r s h i p o f

t h e s i l v e r b a s i n ! ) A f t e r t h e b i s h o p s t h e v e r g e r s c a m e

u p w i t h a d o z e n r e d v e l v e t p u r s e s . The Anglo-America n

f u n c t i o n h a d b e e n u n i t e d w i t h t h e a n n i v e r s a r y o f t h e S o c i -

e t y f o r t h e P r o p a g a t i o n o f t h e G o s p e l i n F o r e i g n P a r t s .



1 4 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

T h e a l m s - b a s i n t h u s b e g a n i t s c a r e e r b y r e c e i v i n g g i f t s

f o r t h e p r o p a g a t i o n o f t h e G o s p e l a r o u n d t h e w o r l d , w h i c h

n o w , t h i r t y y e a r s s i n c e t h e g o o d B i s h o p M c l l v a i n e w a s

b u r i e d w i t h h o n o u r i n L o n d o n ( 1 8 7 3 ) , h a s c o m e t o m e a n

a p r o p a g a t i o n b y t h e e d g e o f t h e s w o r d . T h e h u m i l i t y o f

t h e O h i o g e n t l e m a n c o u l d n o t c o n c e a l t h e c o m p l a c e n c y

o f t h e s e c t w h i c h i n i t s a d d r e s s s p o k e o f i t s e l f a s t h e

"American Church," which with that of England made

t h e " t w o b r a n c h e s o f t h e o n e H o l y C a t h o l i c C h u r c h . " I

r e m e m b e r a n e x c h a n g e o f s m i l e s a m o n g t h e l a r g e c o n -

t i n g e n t o f B r o a d C h u r c h c l e r g y m e n a t t h e h i g h e c c l e s i -

a s t i c a l t o n e o f t h e a d d r e s s ; a n d i n d e e d i t h a d f o r s o m e

t i m e b e e n a s o r t o f p r o v e r b a m o n g t h e m t h a t t h e " a p o s -

t o l i c s u c c e s s i o n " n o t i o n w a s A m e r i c a n . M r s . H e w s o n ,

d a u g h t e r o f B i s h o p M c l l v a i n e , t o l d m e t h a t h e r f a t h e r

w a s c a b l e d w h i l e i n E u r o p e t o p r e s e n t t h e b a s i n , a n d ,

h i s e p i s c o p a l r o b e s b e i n g i n A m e r i c a , t h e E n g l i s h b i s h -

o p s t r i e d t o f i n d a m o n g t h e i r o w n o n e t h a t w o u l d f i t h i m .

I n v a i n . A l l w e r e t o o s m a l l f o r t h e t a l l A m e r i c a n , w h o , h i s

s i l k s t o c k i n g s b e i n g o u t o f s i g h t , w a s h a r d l y d i s t i n g u i s h -

a b l e f r o m a n o r d i n a r y c l e r g y m a n . W a s t h i s i n a d e q u a c y

o f t h e E n g l i s h p r e l a t i c a l d r e s s f o r t h e A m e r i c a n p r e l a t e

s y m b o l i c a l ? I t w a s n o t i c e d b y t h e B i s h o p o f L i n c o l n t h a t

t h e g i f t f r o m A m e r i c a n e a r l y c o i n c i d e d w i t h t h e d a t e o f

t h e D e c l a r a t i o n o f I n d e p e n d e n c e , a n d i t a p p e a r e d t o m e

d r o l l t h a t i n t h e o l o g y i n d e p e n d e n c e s h o u l d b e m o r e c h a r -

a c t e r i s t i c o f t h e E n g l i s h t h a n o f t h e A m e r i c a n E p i s c o -

p a l C h u r c h . A d e m o n s t r a t i o n o f t h i s w a s g i v e n i n t h e

f a c t t h a t t h e s e r m o n o n t h e o c c a s i o n w a s b y t h e B i s h o p

o f E x e t e r , - e v e n t h a t D r . F r e d e r i c k T e m p l e , a u t h o r o f a

r a t i o n a l i s t i c c h a p t e r i n ° ° E s s a y s a n d R e v i e w s , " w h o s e p r o -

m o t i o n t o t h e B e n c h o f B i s h o p s w a s s o h e a v y a b l o w t o

t h e p r o t e s t i n g E v a n g e l i c a l s . Those who hoped that in



DR. TEMPLE'S SERMON 1 4 1

t h i s s e r m o n o n t h e P r o p a g a t i o n o f t h e G o s p e l t h e B i s h o p

w o u l d u n s a y w h a t h e h a d s a i d , a s s i m p l e D r . T e m p l e , i n h i s

s t a r t l i n g e s s a y o n " T h e E d u c a t i o n o f t h e W o r l d , " w e r e

d i s a p p o i n t e d . T h e s e r m o n w a s a c o n c i o ad clerum, a n d

t h o s e w h o h a d e a r s t o h e a r r e c o g n i z e d i n i t t h e s a m e c e n -

t r a l i d e a a s t h a t o f t h e c e n s u r e d e s s a y .

H i s t e x t w a s R o m . x i , 1 5 , " F o r i f t h e c a s t i n g a w a y o f

t h e m b e t h e r e c o n c i l i n g o f t h e w o r l d , w h a t s h a l l t h e r e -

c e i v i n g o f t h e m b e b u t l i f e f r o m t h e d e a d ? " T h e b i s h o p

s h o w e d t h a t t h e c a s t i n g a w a y o f t h e J e w s w a s d u e t o t h e

e x p a n s i o n o f t h e g o s p e l t o i n c l u d e t h e G e n t i l e s . The Jews

h a d g a t h e r e d i n g r e a t n u m b e r s t o t h e r e l i g i o n o f C h r i s t ,

u n t i l P a u l a n d o t h e r s b e g a n t o i n t e r p r e t i t a s a r e l i g i o n

for mankind . They were ready to embrace it so long as

they could regard it as only a reformed Judaism . H e

t h e n w e n t o n t o s u g g e s t t h a t t h e s p r e a d o f C h r i s t i a n i t y

among the nations of the earth was very slow, and its

c o n v e r s i o n s i n f o r e i g n p a r t s v e r y f e w , c h i e f l y b e c a u s e i t

(Christianity) was undergoing a process of expansion .

C h r i s t i a n s w i l l n o t s e e t h e i r r e l i g i o n t r i u m p h i n t h e w o r l d

u n t i l t h e y h a v e l e a r n e d t h e i r o w n l e s s o n b e t t e r . It must

f i r s t b e c o m e a l a r g e r t h i n g i n t h e i r o w n m i n d s .

T h i s t a l l , l a r g e - f r a m e d b i s h o p , w i t h h i s g l i t t e r i n g b l a c k

eyes, and black hair and whiskers, and his loud clear

v o i c e , s p o k e w i t h o u t a n y a c c e n t o f t i m i d i t y e i t h e r t o w a r d s

t h e r i g h t - w i n g c h u r c h m e n , w h o s e e y e s w e r e f i x e d s h a r p l y

upon him, or towar ds Dean Stanley and his group, wh o

w e r e a l l p r e s e n t . H e s a i d t h a t a l t h o u g h t h e f o r e i g n p r o -

p a g a t i o n o f C h r i s t i a n i t y w a s a t a s t a n d s t i l l , t h e i m p o r -

t a n t f a c t r e m a i n e d t h a t H e a v e n h a d m a r r i e d h e a v e n l y

l i g h t t o e a r t h l y l i g h t . " The wisest and most civilized

n a t i o n s a r e C h r i s t i a n . "

T h i s a l m o s t s e e m e d t r u e w h e n t h a t s a m e b i s h o p b e



1 4 9 , MY PILGRIMAGE

came Archbishop of Canterbury . B u t a l a s ! s i n c e h i s t i m e

the American churches have apparently resolved not to

l e t f o r e i g n e n l a r g e m e n t w a i t f o r t h e i r o w n s p i r i t u a l e n -

largement at home . The marriage is of Gospel to Gun-

p o w d e r . A s t h e l a t e L o r d S a l i s b u r y s a i d , t h e m i s s i o n a r y

i s r e g u l a r l y f o l l o w e d b y t h e s o l d i e r . O f c o u r s e t h e r e a r e

s o m e r a t i o n a l i s t s w h o , b e l i e v i n g t h a t t h e p r o c e s s m a k e s

u l t i m a t e l y f o r " p r o g r e s s , " m a y s e e w i t h s a t i s f a c t i o n C h r i s -

t i a n i t y r e n d e r i n g i t s e l f o d i o u s a l l r o u n d t h e w o r l d . T h e

m i s s i o n a r y a l r e a d y a l l u d e d t o , w h o l e c t u r e d f o r u s a t t h e

C e n t u r y C l u b , i n v o k e d o u r h o r r o r a t T u r k i s h i n t o l e r a n c e

because they are forbidden to sing such hymns as " On -

ward, Christian Soldier!" For myself, tha t gave me an

i m p r e s s i o n t h a t t h e M o s l e m s h a v e n o w b e c o m e t h e p e a c e -

m a k e r s , a n d t h a t t h e y k n o w b y l o n g e x p e r i e n c e t h a t t h e

" C h r i s t i a n S o l d i e r " h a s n e v e r b e e n c o n t e n t e d w i t h a m e r e

s p i r i t u a l s w o r d . T h e t i t l e o f C h i n e s e G o r d o n i n t h e S o u -

d a n w a s 1 1 O u r C h r i s t i a n S o l d i e r . "



C H A P T E R V I I

New Year's eve in Cinnamon Gardens - H o n . P . R amanatban's banquet

-D e v i l - d a n c e s-S i n h a l e s e d e m o n o l o g y -E n t e r t a i n m e n t i n t h e p a l a c e

o f M u t u K u m a r a S w a m y - T h e N a u t c h d a n c e r s -"T h e M a r t y r o f

T ru th " ( H a r i s c h a n d r a ) -Wagnerite music .

AM O N G t h e c o n c e i v a b l e s e n s a t i o n s o f e x i s t e n c e I h a d

n e v e r i m a g i n e d - u n l e s s i n s o m e e a r l y d a y - m a r e

d r e a m o f t r a n s m u n d a n e t o r m e n t s - a n y c o m p a r a b l e w i t h

t h o s e w h i c h m a d e m e m o r a b l e m y N e w Ye a r ' s e v e . T h e

H o n . P . R a m a n a t h a n i n v i t e d m e t o h i s b e a u t i f u l b u n g a -

low in Cinnamon Gardens, and there I met at dinner a

number of Hindu and Sinhalese gentlemen who possessed

s c h o l a r l y k n o w l e d g e o f t h e h i s t o r y a n d t r a d i t i o n s o f t h e i r

i s l a n d . I t w a s n o h e a v y p r o s a i c d i n n e r s u c h a s t h e i r E n g -

lish neighbours might have import ed to give them the

a i l m e n t s t h e y a s c r i b e d t o t h e c l i m a t e , b u t l i g h t a n d d a i n t y

S i n h a l e s e o y s t e r s , s n i p e , c u r r i e s , s a l a d s , b a n d a k a ( e g g -

p l a n t ) , o t h e r d e l i c a t e v e g e t a b l e s , i s l a n d f r u i t s , a n d t h e

l i g h t e s t F r e n c h w i n e s . ' W h i l e w e w e r e t a k i n g o u r c i g a r s

a n d c o f f e e o n t h e v e r a n d a , s o f t b r e e z e s w h i s p e r i n g t h r o u g h

t h e p a l m a n d m a n g o , f i r e f l i e s f r i n g i n g t h e e n t i r e g a r d e n s ,

t h e a i r l a d e n a t o n c e w i t h f r a g a n c e a n d r h y t h m i c c a d e n c e

o f a m y r i a d t i n y c r e a t u r e s i n t h e i r s l u m b r o u s v e s p e r s ,

'A t t h e G a l l F a c e H o t e l , C o l o m b o , o u r S c o t c h h o s t h a d a p o o r t a b l e ,

b u t o n C h r i s t m a s w e s a w " s w e e t b r e a d s " o n t h e m e n u , a n d p r e p a r e d f o r a

t r e a t . T h e s w e e t b r e a d s w e r e l i t t l e c a k e s o f d o u g h s w e e t e n e d w i t h s u g a r 1

S u r r o u n d e d b y c o f f e e p l a n t a t i o n s , w e c o u l d n o t g e t a c u p o f c o f f e e , b u t o n l y

t e a . H e p r o m i s e d o n e d a y t o p r o c u r e u s c o f f e e , b u t w h e n i t c a m e t w o m o r n -

i n g s l a t e r , i t w a s s o s u g g e s t i v e o f a d e c o c t i o n o f b u r n t c o r k s t h a t w e c o n -

t e n t e d o u r s e l v e s w i t h t h e t e a . B e t w e e n S a n F r a n c i s c o a n d V e n i c e I f o u n d

n o g o o d h o t e l s .



1 4 4 M Y P I L G R I M A G E

w a f t e d m e i n t o d r e a m l a n d . P r e s e n t l y , I s a i d , a t u r b a n e d

m a g i c i a n w i l l c l a p h i s h a n d s a n d a l l w i l l d i s a p p e a r -

t h e s e p l e a s a n t g e n t l e m e n , t h e s e p a l m s , t h e f i r e f l i e s - a l l

I s h a l l r u b m y e y e s , s e e a L o n d o n f o g , t u r n o v e r , a n d

d o z e a g a i n . N o t s o ! B u t t h e d r e a m i s d e s t i n e d t o p a s s

i n t o a f a n t a s t i c r e a l m .

M y h o s t h a d r e a d m y " D e m o n o l o g y a n d D e v i l - L o r e ; "

h e k n e w m y i n t e r e s t i n t h e d i a b o l i c f a u n a o f C e y l o n , a n d

d e t e r m i n e d t h a t f o r o n c e I s h o u l d h a v e e n o u g h o f t h e m .

T h e w i l d p e o p l e c a l l e d"

d e v i l - d a n c e r s " a r e n o t f o u n d i n

o r n e a r C o l o m b o ; E n g l i s h c u s t o m s h a v e f r i g h t e n e d t h e m

i n t o r e m o t e p l a c e s . M y h o s t w i t h c h a r a c t e r i s t i c c o n s i d -

e r a t e n e s s h a d b r o u g h t t w e n t y o r m o r e d e v i l - d a n c e r s f r o m

t h e h i l l s t o p e r f o r m t h e i r w e i r d o r g i e s b e f o r e t h e d o o r .

T h e H i n d u s e r v a n t s o f t h e f a m i l y a r e a c c u s t o m e d d u r -

i n g t h e m o n t h b e t w e e n D e c e m b e r 1 2 a n d J a n u a r y 1 2 t o

d e s i g n a m o s a i c o f f l o u r a n d f l o w e r s w i t h s m a ll a n i m a l

f i g u r e s o n t h e g r o u n d i n f r o n t o f t h e v e r a n d a . A t f i v e

p o i n t s o f i t a r e f l o w e r s , t h e i r s t e m s s t u c k i n s m a l l b a l l s o f

a s u b s t a n c e w h i c h i t r e q u i r e s a l l a c o w ' s s a n c t i t y t o d i g -

n i f y . P e t a l s a r e a l s o s t r e w n a b o u t o v e r t h e f i g u r e s , w h o s e

o b j e c t i s t o d r i v e a w a y t h e d e v i l s ; a n d o n e m a y r e m e m b e r

h o w i n G o e t h e ' s 1 1 F a u s t " t h e a n g e l s p e l t t h e d e v i l s w i t h

f l o w e r s , w h i c h s t i n g t h e m l i k e f l a m e s . B u t t h e s e H i n d u

c h a r m s h a d no e f f e c t u p o n o u r d e v i l - d a n c e r s . I t w a s j u s t

t h e r e t h a t t h e s c e n e t o o k p l a c e . U n f o r e w a r n e d o f a n y p er -

f o r m a n c e , I w a s b e w i l d e r e d b y a f l a r e o f t o r c h e s a p p r o a c h -

i n g f r o m v a r i o u s q u a r t e r s , h e l d b y m e n n e a r l y n a k e d .

T h e n t h e r e w a s l o w b e a t i n g o f t o m - t o m s . P r e s e n t l y a

m a n b e g a n t o d r a w l o u t a w i l d w a i l i n g c h a n t , i n w h i c h

a n o t h e r a n d t h e n a n o t h e r j o i n e d . T h e r e w e r e w o r d s , b u t

t h e g e n t l e m e n p r e s e n t , t h o u g h a l l l i n g u i s t s , c o u l d n o t

m a k e o u t t h e p a t o i s ; o n e o f t h e m t o l d m e t h e s i n g e r s



DEVI L DANC E RS



THE DEVIL-DANCE 1 4 5

themselves probably did not know the meaning of their

rune . By this time a considerable crowd of people had

g a t h e r e d a b o u t t h e o u t e r c o l u m n s o f t h e p o r t i c o , a n d t h e

f l a r i n g o f t h e t o r c h e s o n t h e i r s h i n i n g b l a c k b o d i e s a n d

e a g e r f a c e s m a d e a w o n d r o u s s c e n e .

A t l e n g t h a r o b u s t f e l l o w c l e a r e d a s p a c e , a n d w e w e r e

informed that the devil-dance would be prece ded by a

" k o l u m " (extravaganza) . T h e r e u p o n t w o a p p e a r i n

g r o t e s q u e m a s k s , e m b r o i d e r e d r e d a n d g r e e n b l o u s e s ,

b e l t s w i t h j i n g l e s , w h i t e t r o u s e r s r e a c h i n g t o m i d w a y t h e

leg, and plumed caps . After a minute's dancing around

e a c h o t h e r t h e y s t o p p e d a n d c o n v e r s e d . T h e i r w o r d s w e r e

t r a n s l a t e d f o r m e : " C a n y o u d a n c e ? " " Ye s . " " H o w d o

y o u d a n c e ? " " A s y o u h a v e s e e n m e d o i n g a l l t h i s t i m e . "

" Can you turn a somersa ult?" " I a m g o i n g t o d o t h a t . "

The questioner grapples and hugs him roughly . G° I have

b e e n s t o p p e d f r o m a s o m e r s a u l t b y y o u r e m b r a c e . " " I a m

D o n H e l e n e s d e S i l v a , s o l d i e r . " " A n d I a m M i l o r d t h e

s o l d i e r . " B o t h o f t h e m t h e n r e c o u n t t h e t e r r i f i c b a t t l e s

t h r o u g h w h i c h t h e y h a v e p a s s e d , c o n q u e r i n g a l l t h e i r f o e s ,

a n d c o m p a r e t h e i r m u l t i t u d i n o u s w o u n d s . T h e y t h e n

d a n c e s l o w l y a r o u n d i n c a u t i o u s p u r s u i t , a s i f f o r a g r a p -

p l e , b u t s u d d e n l y t a k e t b t h e i r h e e l s .

A n o l d m a n w i t h a l o n g w h i t e b e a r d n o w a p p r o a c h e s -l e d b y a y o u ng w o m a n w h i t e ne d b y c h a l k . A f t e r s o m e

dancing by these two, the old man stops to cough and

gasp . The young woman mimics the cough and everything

e l s e d o n e b y t h i s a g e d m a n , w h o m t h e y c a l l " Pannikera,"

w h i c h m a y m e a n " p a n t a l o o n . " A y o u n g m a n e n t e r s

and tells the bystanders that the aged man is his son .

T h e y c r y o u t a t t h e i m p o s s i b i l i t y . The old man says that

h e b a d b e e n t h r e e t i m e s m a r r i e d , a n d a d d s ( t o t h e y o u t h ) ,

1 1 1 am here to dance by the king's order, but have re-



1 4 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

c e i v e d n o i n v i t a t i o n ; a s p e n a l t y y o u m u s t d a n c e a n d g o . "

T h i s t h e y o u t h d i d , a n d t h e b a l l e t e n d e d .

During this performance the tom-toms and the unison

o f i n t o n i n g v o i c e s w e r e i n c e s s a n t . B u t w h e n " k o l u m "

h a d e n d e d , a n d t h e d e v i l - d a n c e w a s a b o u t t o b e g i n , t h e

v o c a l a n d i n s t r u m e n t a l o v e r t u r e w a s f u r i o u s . There was

n o c h a n g e i n t h e t u n e , b u t t h e t i m e w a s a c c e l e r a t e d , t h e

b e a t s c h a n g e d , t h e v o i c e s b e c a m e l o u d e r a n d w i l d e r . There

w a s s o m e t h i n g d i s t i n c t l y d i a b o l i c a l i n t h e n o t e s , w h i c h , i n

c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h t h e s i l e n t t h r o n g o f n e a r l y n a k e d p e o p l e ,

t h e i r w h i t e e y e s l i g h t i n g u p t h e i r d u s k y f a c e s , a l o n g w i t h

t h e l u r i d t o r c h e s , c a u s e d s e n s a t i o n s t o s h o o t t h r o u g h o n e ' s

n e r v e s .

A d e a f e n i n g s u c c e s s i o n o f t o m - t o m t h u m p s a c c o m p a n i e d

t h e e n t r a n c e b e f o r e u s o f t h e S e r p e n t K i n g , N a g a R a j a h .

H i s m a s k , f a c e a n d c r o w n t o g e t h e r , r e p r e s e n t e d e v e r y t e r -

rible and beautiful curve and contortion of the cobra .

S e r p e n t s ( r e a l i s t i c i n t h e d u s k ) c o i l e d o u t o f t h e c o r n e r s

of his many-fanged mouth and about his huge protruding

eyes and made the pendants of his ears, the heads and

hoods of five cobras rising to make the canopy of his

c r o w n . W i t h h i m c a m e h i s p r i m e m i n i s t e r , w h o a l s o

s u c c e e d e d w e l l i n h i s m a s k o f s e r p e n t d e c o r a t i o n s , h a v i n g

above his head three huge hooded cobra-heads and three

s m a l l e r . W i t h t h e s e w a s a t h i r d , c r o w n e d w i t h f i v e c o -

b r a s . T h e t h r e e f a c e s w e r e b l o o d - r e d , g o g g l e - e y e d , t u s k y ,

t h e f o r m s d r e s s e d i n r e d w i t h t o u c h e s o f g r e e n , b e n e a t h

which patches of black skin were discernible as they

t h r e w t h e m s e l v e s a b o u t i n s i n u o u s e c s t a s i e s . T h e t h e m e

o f t h e i r d a n c e , t h o u g h t h e y s p o k e n o w o r d , w a s e v i d e n t l y

t h e s e r p e n t ; t h e y c o i l e d , t w i s t e d , t w i n e d , a n d w r u n g t h e i r

necks so long as to make one uneasy . P o s s i b l y w e w e r e

w i t n e s s i n g a t r a v e s t y o f a n c i e n t r i t e s o f s e r p e n t - w o r s h i p .



LEGEND OF THE BLACK PRINCE 1 47

T h e s e N a g a s ( s e r p e n t s ) a r e t h e l e g e n d a r y b e i n g s b e l i e v e d

t o h a v e i n h a b i t e d C e y l o n b e f o r e i t w a s o c c u p i e d b y h u m a n

b e i n g s . F e r g u s o n i d e n t i f i e s t h e m a s s e r p e n t - w o r s h i p p e r s ,

b u t I i n c l i n e t o t h e c o n j e c t u r e t h a t t h e s e r p e n t w a s t h e i r

e n s i g n . B e s i d e s t h e N a g a s t h e S i n h a l e s e b e l i e v e d i n Y a k -

khos, a sort of hobgoblin formed from human beings who

lived wickedly, or who were not burned or buried with

p r o p e r c e r e m o n i e s . There were swarms of these whom the

p r i e s t s w e r e o f t e n r e q u i r e d t o e x p e l f r o m t h e h o u s e s , a l l

d o m e s t i c m i s h a p s b e i n g a t t r i b u t e d t o t h e s e m i s c h i e v o u s

c r e a t u r e s . T h e s e t w o c l a s s e s o f d e m o n s -N a g a s a n d

Ya k k h o s -h a v e o f f i c i a l l e a d e r s , a n d s o m e o f t h e s e h a v e

s p e c i a l t r a d i t i o n s . I r e c o g n i z e d a l e g e n d a r y p e r s o n a g e i n

a p e r f o r m e r w h o f o l l o w e d t h e t h r e e N a g a s j u s t d e s c r i b e d .

T h e y c a l l e d h i m K a l u C u m a r a , t h e B l a c k P r i n c e , b u t

none present seemed to know his legend, wi th which I

m e t so m e ye a r s b e fo r e . T h e m a n a g e r o f t h e s h o w t o l d

m e , t h r o u g h a g e n t l e m a n , t h a t t h i s B l a c k P r i n c e " l i v e d o n

a m o u n t a i n a n d w a s s u r r o u n d e d b y s h e - d e v i l s . " I a s k e d i f

i t w e r e n o t t r u e t h a t w o m e n a t t r i b u t e d a l l t h e i r a i l m e n t s

to him, and was prompt ly answered , "Yes ." The early

l e g e n d , w h i c h h a d d i e d o u t o f p o p u l a r t r a d i t i o n , w a s t h a t

t h i s p r i n c e w a s o n c e b e a u t i f u l ; a r a c e o f f e m a l e w a r r i o r s

b e s i e g e d h i s k i n g d o m , b u t o n s e e i n g h i m a l l f e l l i n l o v e

w i t h h i m . E a c h t r i e d t o a p p r o p r i a te h i m , a n d a m on g

t h e m h e w a s t o r n t o p i e c e s . H e t h e n b e c a m e a d e m o n ,

a n d h a s s i n c e a v e n g e d h i m s e l f o n t h e w h o l e f e m a l e r a c e .

T h e c l a s s i c A m a z o n s h a v e t h u s s u r v i v e d a s s h e - d e v i l s . I

glanced around me and thought I could see a shrinking

back in the crowd when this Black Prince came dashing

i n . He flared large torches with both hands, an d two

o t h e r t o r c h e s w e r e h e l d i n e a c h c o r n e r o f t h e m o u t h o f h i s

h i d e o u s m a s k . He never rested an instant, but danced




a n d l e a p e d f u r i o u s l y , g o i n g t h r o u g h m o v e m e n t s e x p r e s s -

i n g c o n v u l s i o n s , g r i p i n g s , d e l i r i u m , e p i l e p s y , o f t e n s e t t i n g

f i r e t o h i s b e a r d a n d c l o t h e s i n a n a l a r m i n g w a y .

W h e n t h i s f i e r y d e m o n h a d v a n i s h e d t h e t o m - t o m s

b e c a m e s l o w e r , t h e c h a n t m o r e s o l e m n , a n d t h e r e m a r c h e d

i n K i n g N a l a a n d h i s Q u e e n D a m a y a n t i . T h e k i n g ' s

c r o w n w a s a s o r t o f p y r a m i d o f s m a l l g o d s a n d g o d d e s s e s ,

t h a t o f t h e q u e e n a t e m p l e. T h e c o m p l e x i o n s o f t h e t w o

w e r e f a i r , a n d t h e i r m o v e m e n t s m a j e s t i c . T h e y w e r e f o l -

l o w e d b y a h i d e o u s s n a k y N a g a , w h o m I t o o k t o b e t h e

s e r p e n t - k in g - s a i d i n H i n d u l e g e n d t o h a v e b i t t e n K i n g

N a l a . T h i s k i n g g a m b l e d a w a y h i s k i n g d o m , a n d w h i l e

w a n d e r i n g w a s t r a n s f o r m e d t o a m i s s h a p e n d w a r f b y t h e

N a g a ' s b i t e . N a l a r e c o v e r e d h i s w i f e ( D a m a y a n t i ) a n d

k i n g d o m a g a i n , a n d f o r g a v e h i s b r o t h e r , w h o b y c h a r m e d

d i c e h a d w o n h i s k i n g d o m . A l l t h a t w e h e r e s a w o f t h e

g r e a t e p i s o d e o f t h e M a h a b h a r a t a , w h i c h D e a n M i l m a n

t r a n s l a t e d i n t o E n g l i s h v e r s e , w a s b u t t h e i d e a l k i n g a n d

q u e e n a n d t h e p o s s i b l e N a g a . T h e r e w a s n e x t a f e m a l e

N a g a , s a i d t o p e r s o n i f y s o m e d i s e a s e . A S i n h a l e s e p h y -

s i c i a n p r e s e n t l y t o l d m e t h a t w h e n a w o m a n i s i l l o f c h o r e a

o r o t h e r n e r v o u s c o m p l a i n t , t h e y p l a c e b e f o r e h e r s o m e

s u c h h i d e o u s i m a g e . T h e n t h e d e v i l - d a n c e r s b e g i n t o

d a n c e i n o r d e r t o d r a w t h e " p o s s e s s i o n " f r o m t h e p a t i e n t

t o t h e m s e l v e s , a n d p r e s e n t l y t h e p a t i e n t g e t s u p a n d d a n c e s

w i t h t h e m . T h e n t h e y s p e a k t o t h e d e m o n s u p p o s e d t o

p o s s e s s h e r , a n d s a y , " W h e n d o y o u m e a n t o l e a v e t h i s

w o m a n ? " G e n e r a l l y t h e r e i s n o r e p l y u n t i l a f t e r t h e y

h a v e f l o g g e d t h e p a t i e n t o n c e o r t w i c e , w h e n t h r o u g h h e r

l i p s t h e d e m o n s a y s b e w i l l l e a v e w h e n a c e r t a i n b r a n c h

o f a c e r t a i n t r e e f a l l s . S h e n a m e s w i t h p r e c i s i o n t h e t r e e

a n d b r a n c h , a n d s o m e b o d y a l w a y s m a n a g e s t o h a v e t h a t

b r a n c h f a l l s o o n . T h i s p h y s i c i a n s a i d i t w a s a l l m e s m e r -



CHARACTERS OF THE DANCE 1 4 9

i s m ; b u t t h a t t h e o n l y a i l m e n t s c u r e d a r e i m a g i n a r y , a s

i s t h e m e t h o d o f c u r e .

N e x t w e h a d s o m e H i n d u d e m o n s-a k s h a s a s , f o r t h e

Yakkhos, formidable in Ceylon, are in India th e gen-

e r a l l y h a r m l e s s g o b l i n s c a l l e d Y a k k h o s . T h e g r a n d k i n g

of the Rakshasas (Ravana) made his appearance, about

w h i c h t h e m o s t n o t a b l e t h i n g w a s h i s t e r r i b l e t e e t h . This

c o n q u e r o r o f n a t u r e , p r i n c e o f t h i s w o r l d , f o r w h o s e d e -

s t r u c t i o n V i s h n u w a s i n c a r n a t e a s R a m a c h a n d r a , s e e m s t o

h a v e b e e n s h o r n o f s o m e o f h i s t e r r o r s i n C e y l o n , n o t a b l y

o f t h e t e n h e a d s a n d t w e n t y a r m s a s c r i b e d t o h i m i n t h e

R a m a y a n a . H o w e v e r , h e w a s s u f f i c i e n t l y u g l y , a s i n d e e d

was Purnakaya, the Sinhal ese Devil . T h e l a t t e r w a s f o l -

l o w e d b y K o t i y a , " t h e t i g e r - d e m o n ( s p o t t e d a n d c r o u c h -

i n g ) , a n d " Mukara Toranaye," a fish-demon . N o t s o u g l y ,

yet fierce, was Kalinga, the lion-man, from whom the

Veddahs (primitive inhabitant s of Ceylon, of whom two

thousand remain) are traditiona lly descended . A f o x -

d e m o n , a h o u s e - d e v i l , p a s s e d b e f o r e u s ; a n d t h e n t h e r e w a s

a n i n t e r v a l i n w h i c h w e r e r e p r e s e n t e d o r i e n t a l c o s t u m e s a n d

c h a r a c t e r s -a P a r i a h , a Do b i ( w a s h e r w o m a n ) , C h i t t y

( t r a d e s m a n ) , e t c . A m o n g t h e s e w a s a n e g r o ( t h e o n l y o n e

I s a w i n C e y l o n ) i n m i l i t a r y d r e s s , h i s c a p m a r k e d

" 1882 ." One performer had the headdress of a Mudliar

( p e r s o n a g e o f h i g h r a n k ) , b u t o t h e r w i s e w e a r i n g o n l y t h e

T a m i l l o i n - c l o t h . This caused merriment . " W h o a r e

y o u ? " asked our host . " A Mudliar," was replied from

b e n e a t h t h e m a s k . " W h y h a v e y o u n o t t h e M u d l i a r ' s

dress and sword? " " I w a s t o o s l e e p y t o p u t t h e m o n. "

T h e r e w a s g o o d c a u s e f o r t h e p o o r f e l l o w ' s s l e e p i n e s s ; i t

w a s m i d n i g h t . In the finale there moved before us an

embodiment of malaria that recalled to me Blake's pic-

t u r e o f t h e s a m e a s a s l i m y g r e e n s o w e r s c a t t e r i n g s e e d s ;



1 5 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

t h e n d e l i r i u m a p p e a r e d , a n d f i n a l l y a f e a r f u l l i v i d m a s k ,

w i t h a b y s m a l m o u t h , a n d t e e t h l i k e a s a w , -Deat h . This

w a s t h e l a s t .

T h e c h i e f H i n d u d e i t y , I n d r a , a n d S a k r a , h i s p e r s o n i -

f i e d a l i a s in Ceylon, came to bid us good-night and re-

c e i v e c o m p l i m e n t s o n t h e i n t e r e s t i n g d e m o n s p r o v i d e d i n

t h e i r u n i v e r s e . They were all demons, personifying the

d i s e a s e s a n d o b s t r u c t i o n s o f t h e p h y s i c a l m a n ; t h e r e w a s

n o t a d e v i l a m o n g t h e m , f o r d e v i l s d o n o t r e p e l b u t

a l l u r e ; t h e y a r e n o t u g l y b u t f a s c i n a t i n g . I n t h e s e v e n t h

c e n t u r y t h e R a k s h a s a s o f C e y l o n w e r e p i c t u r e d a s b e a u t i -

f u l s e d u c t i v e w o m e n .

At length the torches were extinguished, the dusky

crowd at the doors disappeared among the mangoes and

p a l m s . O u r r e v e l s w e r e e n d e d ; t h e d e m o n s h a d a l l

changed into painted cardboard and spangles, borne in

b u n d l e s o n t h e s h o u l d e r s o f m e n a n d w o m e n , m o v i n g

u n d e r t h e s i l e n t s t a r s a n d p a s t t h e i r s i l e n t t e m p l e s .

A s I d r o v e t o m y h o t e l b e s i d e t h e s e a , a f t e r m i d n i g h t ,

t h e h o u s e s o f t h e S i n h a l e s e c i t y w e r e d a r k , e x c e p t f o r t h e

E n g l i s h c h u r c h , f r o m w h o s e w i n d o w s b r i l l i a n t l i g h t s

s t r e a m e d o u t o v e r t h e l a k e a n d t h e C o m m o n . T h e s e

C h r i s t i a n s w e r e k e e p i n g W a t c h - N i g h t , a n d w r e s t l i n g w i t h

t h e i n v i s i b l e p r i n c i p a l i t i e s a n d p o w e r s o f t h e u n i v e r s e . I f

t h e s e s h o u l d b e g i v e n v i s i b l e f o r m s a n d f a c e s , h o w f a r

w o u l d t h e y r e s e m b l e t h o s e o f t h e d e m o n o l o g y o f C e y l o n ?

A m o n g t h e s o - c a l l e d d e v i l s o n t h e a n c i e n t c h u r c h w a l l s

o f E u r o p e o n e r a r e l y d i s c o v e r s t h e t e m p t i n g S a t a n , b u t

m u c h s u c h g r o t e s q u e f o r m s o f p a i n s , d i s e a s e s , o b s t r u c -

t i o n s , a s t h o s e t h a t p l a y e d t h e i r p h a n t a s m a g o r i a i n a f a i r

garden o n that New Year's ev e, 1883 . Mephistopheles

r e m i n d s F a u s t t h a t t h e D e v i l p a r t i c i p a t e s i n m o d e r n c u l -

t u r e , b u t r e a l l y i t h a s e v o l v e d h i m o u t o f e x i s t e n c e .



EXORCISM 1 5 1

I n 1 8 5 4 , w h e n t h e o p e r a o f " Don Gi o va n n i " w a s p e r -

f o r m e d i n B o s t o n , I r e m e m b e r w e l l a s w a r m o f l i t t l e r e d

d e v i l s - g i r l s a n d b o y s i n s c a r l e t t i g h t s - co m i n g o u t

o f a m e d i a e v a l " m o u t h o f h e l l " a n d c a r r y i n g t h e w i c k e d

D o n i n t o i t . I t d i d n o t a w e t h e s p e c t a t o r s b u t a m u s e d

t h e m , a n d I s u g g e s t e d t o t h e p o e t L o n g f e l l o w , i n w h o s e

b o x I s a t , t h a t t h e d e v i l s h a d b e t t e r b e o m i t t e d ."

I t i s

s o m e s a t i s f a c t i o n t o s e e s o m e p r a c t i c a l i n f l i c t i o n o f t h e

c o n d i g n , " h e s a i d . I t w o u l d n o t b e e n o u g h t o t r u s t , a s

S h a k e s p e a r e u s u a l l y d i d , t o t h e s c o u r g e o f a c o n s c i e n c e

n o l o n g e r e x i s t i n g . I r e m e m b e r e d t h o s e l i t t l e r e d d e v i l s

while in Ceylon, and wondered how such an innoc ent

p o p u l a t i o n c o u l d h a v e b e e n b u i l t u p w i t h o u t a n y p u n i s h e r

o f m o r a l o f f e n c e s . B u t B u d d h a d e c l a r e d v i r t u e t o b e a s

n a t u r a l t o m a n a s g r a s s t o t h e f i e l d s .

I n a n a r t i c l e o n D e m o n o l o g y a n d W i t c h c r a f t i n C e y l o n

J o u r n a l o f t h e C e y l o n B r a n c h o f t h e R o y a l A s i a t i c

S o c i e t y , " 1 8 6 5 - 6 6 ) , t h e v e r y l e a r n e d D u n d r i s G o o n e r a t u e

M o d l i a r q u o t e s l i t e r a l l y f o r m u l a s f o r e x o r c i s i n g d e m o n s

f r o m p e r s o n s w h o s e a i l m e n t s w e r e b e l i e v e d t o b e " p o s s e s -

s i o n s . " I n s o m e H i n d u d i v i n i t i e s , i n o t h e r s C h r i s t i a n

n a m e s a r e i n v o k e d . W h e n a n e x o r c i s m b e g i n s t h e " d e v i l "

d e m a n d s t h r o u g h t h e l i p s o f t h e p o s s e s s e d a ~ ° h u m a n

s a c r i f i c e ; " a c o c k i s g e n e r a l l y s u b s t i t u t e d . I f t h e d e v i l

s t i l l t r o u b l e s h i s v i c t i m h e ( t h e d e v i l ) i s " b o u n d a n d

n a i l e d t o a t r e e . " A n a i l o f c o n s e c r a t e d k i n d i s d r i v e n

i n t o a l i v i n g t r e e , a n d a c o n s e c r a t e d t h r e a d c o i l e d a r o u n d

i t , w i t h c h a r m s , a n d b y t h i s p a n t o m i m e a n d s u f f i c i e n t f a i t h-h e p a t i e n t i n n i n e t y - n i n e c a s e s o f a h u n d r e d i s a

w o m a n - t h e a f f l i c t i n g d e m o n i s e x p e l l e d . T h i s c o m b i n a -

t i o n o f n o t i o n s f o r e i g n t o a n y n a t i v e r e l i g i o n i n C e y l o n , -h u m a n s a c r i f i c e , v i c a r i o u s s u b s t i t u t i o n , n a i l i n g t o a t r e e ,-i m p r e s s e s m e a s s o m e t h i n g m a d e u p f r o m t h e e a r l y P o r t u -

6



1 5 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

g u e s e i n s t r u c t i o n s b y t h e n a t i v e m e d i c i n e - m e n . T h e r e i s ,

o r w a s , i n e a c h r e m o t e n e i g h b o u r h o o d a n a t i v e C a t h o l i c

o f f i c i a l c a l l e d t h e A n n e r y , i n t h e p o t e n c y o f w h o s e e x o r -

c i s m s t h e n a t i v e s h a v e a g o o d d e a l o f f a i t h . H e s h o w s

t h e d e m o n i n t h e p a t i e n t a c r o s s a n d i m a g e s o f s a i n t s , a n d

a s k s i f s h e k n o w s w h a t t h e y a r e . A t t h i s s o m e t r e m b l e a n d

t r y t o a v o i d l o o k i n g a t t h e m . T h e L o r d ' s P r a y e r a n d a

p r a y e r t o t h e V i r g i n a r e r e a d o v e r t o h e r s e v e n t i m e s ;

a f t e r i t a w r i t t e n n a t i v e c h a r m ( R a t t u m a n d i r a m ) i s

f o l d e d i n p a p e r , s p r i n k l e d w i t h h o l y w a t e r , a n d b u n g a t

h e r n e c k . T h e A n n e r y t h e n s a y s : " L e a v e t h i s w o m a n

a n d g o t h y w a y ! I charge thee, demon, in the name of

the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost -name of the Virgin

M a r y a n d a l l t h e s a i n t s - l e a v e h e r t h i s i n s t a n t , o r t h o u

s h a l t b e p u n i s h e d s e v e r e l y ." If the demon says through

t h e w o m a n ' s l i p s , ` ° I w o n ' t , " s h e i s s t r u c k o n t h e b a c k

w i t h t h e t a i l o f a s k a t e - f i s h o v e r w h i c h a c h a r m ( k a t t u )

has been said . A f t e r s e v e n o r e i g h t b l o w s t h e d e m o n i s

overpowered ; t h e w o m a n u s u a l l y r e c o v e r s h e r s e n s e s .

T h e r e i s n o t w i l i g h t i n C e y l o n . W h e n t h e s u n s e t s d a r k -

n e s s f a l l s s u d d e n l y u p o n t h e e a r t h , a n d t h e s t a r s s h i n e o u t

a s i f s o m e h a n d h a d t u r n e d o n t h e s t a r l i g h t . And it is

t h i c k d a r k n e s s t o o ; s o t h i c k t h a t a n a n t h r o p o l o g i c a l s p e c -

ulation is born in my mind, that the dark complexions

a r e d u e t o a p r i m i t i v e s u r v i v a l o f t h e n i g h t - l i k e . A d a r k

S i n h a l e s e o r T a m i l i s i n v i s i b l e a g a i n s t t h e n i g h t , a n d

t h e t r e a d o f h i s b a r e f e e t i s i n a u d i b l e . T h e l i g h t e r , m o r e

v i s i b l e v a r i e t i e s o f t h e i r r a c e w o u l d h a v e b e e n k i l l e d

o f f b y i n v a d e r s a n d w i l d b e a s t s , a n d t h e d a r k w o u l d b e

passed by . I n a d d i t i o n t o t h i s t h e p r e d a t o r y c l a s s w o u l d

b e s u c c e s s f u l i n t h e p r o p o r t i o n t h a t , a s i s s a i d i n t h e

B o o k o f J o b , t h e y w e r e m a r k e d b y t h e n i g h t . T h e C o -

l o m b o c o a c h m a n w i l l n o t d r i v e a s t e p a f t e r s i x o ' c l o c k



A SINHALESE MANSION 1 53

u n l e s s h i s l a m p s a r e l i t , l e s t h e s h o u l d r u n o v e r a s l e e p -

i n g n a t i v e .

T h i s d a r k n e s s l e n d s a s p e c i a l b e a u t y t o t h e b u n g a l o w s

o f t h e r i c h , w h i c h a p p e a r i l l u m i n a t e d , t h e r a y s f r o m t h e i r

lamps shining through the foliag e in a mystical way,

e s p e c i a l l y i f t h e y b e c o c o a n u t - o i l l a m p s , w h i c h g i v e a s o f t

s p i r i t u a l l i g h t .

T h e m o s t p a l a t i a l b u n g a l o w I s a w i n C o l o m b o w a s t h a t

o f M u t u K u m a r a S w a m y , w h o s e h o s p i t a l i t y a n d t h a t o f

h i s b r o t h e r s w a s e x t e n d e d t o m e i n c o n s i d e r a t i o n f o r m y

friendship for their deceased uncle, Sir Kumara Swamy .

S i r K u m a r a w h i l e s t u d y i n g i n L o n d o n h a d g i v e n a c o u r s e

o f l e c t u r e s i n m y c h a p e l , o n t h e v a r i o u s I n d i a n p h i l o s o -

p h i e s ; h e h a d a t t e n d e d o u r r e c e p t i o n s , a n d a t o n e o f t h e m

met a beautiful young English lady whom he married .

A s I d r o v e u p t h r o u g h t h e l a r g e p a r k o f p a l m s r a d i a n t

w i t h f i r e f l i e s , t h e b u n g a l o w l o o k e d l i k e - b u t I a m s a d l y

i n n e e d o f n e w s i m i l i t u d e s . I have used up Fairyland,

a n d a m t r y i n g t o w r i t e w i t h o u t r e f e r r i n g t o t h e 1 1 A r a b i a n

N i g h t s , " b u t i t i s n o t e a s y w h e n I r e c a l l t h e v e r a n d a s , p o r -

ticoes, rooms of Mutu Kumara Swamy's mansion, and the

entertainment he gave me . The tropical heat was made

p l e a s a n t b y t h e g e n t l e w i n d b l o w i n g f r o m t h e n e i g h b o u r -

ing sea through the open doors . I t w a s d i f f i c u l t , a s o n e

p a s s e d a m i d t h e f l o w e r i n g t r e e s a n d f l o r a l f e s t o o n s , t o s a y

just where the garden ended and the veranda began, or

even the drawing-room, which had flower-laden trees in

each corner-flowers and wreaths everywhere . In front

o f t h e c h a i r o f h o n o u r t o w h i c h I w a s c o n d u c t e d , s t o o d a

h i g h t a b l e , a n d t h e r e o n a s i l v e r s a l v e r c o v e r e d w i t h s t e m -

l e s s f l o w e r s c a r e f u l l y a r r a n g e d . From the centre of the

s a l v e r , n e a r l y a y a r d l o n g , r o s e s l o w l y b u r n i n g s t e m s ,

w h o s e i n c e n s e f i l l e d t h e a i r w i t h s w e e t a n d s u b t l e p e r -



1 5 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

f u m e . The odours, mingled with the soft light of the

c o c o a l a m p s , s h e d t h e i r i n f l u e n c e u p o n s e e r s a n d s c e n e

w i t h a s t r a n g e e f f e c t . W h e n o u r b e a u t i f u l h o s t e s s e n t e r e d ,

w i t h h e r r i c h o r i e n t a l r o b e , a n d t h e t u r b a n e d T a m i l t o o k

h i s p l a c e b e h i n d h e r w i t h a l a r g e p e a c o c k f a n , I s a i d ,

"No doubt that is Maya, goddess of Illusi on, who has

waved her wand and begun her air-woven masque . " B u t

w h e n p r e s e n t l y a b l o n d e y o u n g E n g l i s h l a d y e n t e r e d , i n

unmistakable evening dress, realism came with her hu-

m o r o u s c l e a r e y e s .

I t w a s p r e t t y M r s . T h w a i t e s , w h o h a d g i v e n m e a d i n -

n e r c o m p a n y o n t h e i r c o f f e e p l a n t a t i o n , a n d w h o w i c k e d l y

laughed when I coughed, and my host had to remove the

s t e m s o f i n c e n s e . T h e r e w e r e t w o o r t h r e e o t h e r E n g l i s h

l a d i e s p r e s e n t , a n d w e h a d a n o p p o r t u n i t y o f s a t i s f y i n g

o u r c u r i o s i t y i n s e v e r a l t h i n g s - f o r i n s t a n c e , c h e w i n g a

l i t t l e b e t e l a n d m a k i n g o u r t e e t h r e d w i t h i t .

O n t h e w a l l s w e r e s a c r e d p i c t u r e s , o n e o f t h e i n f a n t

Krishna and his mother, the new-born babe's head ha -

l o e d w i t h l i g h t . O n e s i d e o f t h e d r a w i n g - r o o m w a s p a r t l y

o p e n , a n d f r o m t h e r o o m b e y o n d w e p r e s e n t l y h e a r d a

s l i g h t j i n g l i n g o f s i l v e r o r n a m e n t s , n e x t c a u g h t f l a s h e s

f r o m j e w e l l e d h a i r , a n d t h e d a r k e y e s g l a n c i n g i n t o t h e

r o o m . F i v e N a u t c h g i r l s e n t e r e d w i t h f i v e m a l e s i n g e r s

a n d m u s i c i a n s . T h e g i r l s s a t i n a r o w o n t h e f l o o r f a c i n g

us, and the men behind them - t h e p l a i n w h i t e d r e s s o f

t h e l a t t e r m a k i n g a b a c k g r o u n d f o r t h e r i c h c o s t u m e s o f

t h e d a n c e r s . T h e s e N a u t c h c o s t u m e s , t h o u g h g l o w i n g w i t h

colour and laden with jewels, were not gaudy nor even

gorgeous ; they were somewhat barbaric, but had an an-

t i q u a r i a n c h a r a c t e r v e r y p l e a s i n g . In old conventional

p i c t u r e s o f s a c r e d w o m e n -Draupadi, Damyanti, Sita-o n e s e e s s i m i l a r d r e s s e s , w i t h t h e e x c e p t i o n o f t h e s i l k e n



NAUTCH DANCES 1 55

t r o u s e r s . These are probably the addition of a prudish

a g e . T h e S i n h a l e s e N a u t c h g i r l s a r e d r e s s e d w i t h d e c o -

r u m . T h e y a r e s m a l l o f s t a t u r e , s e v e r a l o f t h e m p r e t t y ,

a n d t h e p e a r l s a n d g o l d t h e y w e a r - a l w a y s e x c e p t i n g

the nose-gems -and the silver anklets above their bare

f e e t w e l l b e c o m e t h e i r c o m p l e x i o n . Soon after they had

s e a t e d t h e m s e l v e s o n t h e f l o o r , a l l -m e n a n d w o m e n -b e g a n t o s i n g . I t s o u n d e d a s a c h a n t w i t h g r a c e - n o t e s a t

t h e e n d o f e a c h b a r , a n d m y h o s t , w h o s a t b e s i d e m e , t o l d

m e i t w a s a h y m n t o S i v a . I d i d n o t l i k e i t m u c h : i t i m -

p r e s s e d m y e a r a s n a s a l , n o t t o s a y w h i n i n g , a n d m o n o t o -

n o u s . T h e n f o l l o w e d a l o v e - s o n g , a n d f o r a f e w m o m e n t s

i t s o u n d e d l i k e t h e s a m e t u n e o v e r a g a i n ; b u t a s I l i s -

tened more closely, and tried to detach the accompani-

m e n t o f t o m - t o m , p i p e , a n d v i o l , I p e r c e i v e d t h a t t h e r e

w a s m o r e v a r i e t y a n d m o r e s c i e n c e i n t h i s m u s i c t h a n m y

e a r c o u l d e a s i l y t a k e i n . F o r t h e f i r s t t i m e i t o c c u r r e d t o

m e t h a t p a r t o f t h e f a u l t I f o u n d i n o r i e n t a l m u s i c m i g h t

l i e i n m y e a r n o t b e i n g s u f f i c i e n t l y c o s m o p o l i t a n . But at

t h e s a m e t i m e I f e l t s u r e t h a t t h i s m u s i c w a s n o t a p r o -

duct of art in the European sens e of art ; i t w a s n o t a

t h i n g t h a t a i m e d a t b e a u t y ; i t h a d u l t e r i o r p u r p o s e s : t o

m o v e t h e c o m p a s s i o n o f a g o d o r l o v e r - a cry wrung out

o f s t r u g g l e . I t i s a r e m a r k a b l e f a c t t h a t a l l t h e a n c i e n t

love-songs of India are uttered by women to men . M y

h o s t , w h o s e s t u d i e s o f s u c h s u b j e c t s h a v e b e e n e x t e n s i v e ,

t o l d m e t h a t , j u d g i n g b y t h e a n c i e n t s o n g s , t h e l o v e - m a k -

i n g u s e d t o b e e n t i r e l y o n t h e p a r t o f w o m e n .

These Nautch girls belong to the Hindu tem ple, and

t h e y s i n g a n d d a n c e o n l y t h e s e v e r y a n c i e n t t h e m e s ,

t r a n s m i t t i n g t h e m t o t h e i r c h i l d r e n w i t h e x t r e m e l i t e r a l -

n e s s , p r e c i s e l y a s . they received them . The great piece

of the evening was a long dramatic love-song of great



156 MY PILGRIMAGE

a n t i q u i t y , s u n g b y a l l t h e p e r f o r m e r s , m a l e a n d f e m a l e ,

a c c o m p a n i e d b y f u l l i n s t r u m e n t a t i o n , a n d d a n c e d b y t h e

leading Nautch girl, who alone did not sing . Her ges-

t u r e s w e r e v e r y e x p r e s s i v e , a n d I w a s a t t i m e s r e m i n d e d

o f t h e F r e n c h s a y i n g , 1 ° W h a t c a n ' t b e s a i d c a n b e s u n g ,

a n d w h a t c a n ' t b e s u n g c a n b e d a n c e d . " T h e f e e t ha d

l i t t l e m o r e t o d o w i t h t h e d a n c e t h a n t o b e a r f o r w a r d a n d

backward the swaying or undulating form, -n o t a t a l l

t h ed a n s e d u v e n t r e , -while the arms were ever on the

m o v e a n d t h e f i n g e r s t w i s t e d t h e m s e l v e s i n t o m a n y v a r i a -

t i o n s . None of these hand-movements were the same, and

each meant something . T h e o p e n i n g s c e n e p a n t o m i m e d

w a s t h e f i r s t g l i m p s e o f t h e b e l o v e d , t o l d i n e m b a r r a s s -

m e n t , m e d i t a t i o n , a n d t h e n t h e f l i n g i n g u p o f t h e a r m s i n

a p p e a l t o t h e g o d o f L o v e . T h e n f o l l o w e d t h e f i r s t c o q u e t -

t i s h a t t e m p t t o f a s c i n a t e h i m -n o w b y c o y n e s s , n e x t b y

a d i s p l a y o f c h a r m s . Then follows dismay -t h e b e l o v e d

m a k e s n o s i g n o f r e q u i t a l . T h e m a i d e n b e c o m e s m e l a n -

c h o l y , w e e p s ; t h e n s h e b e c o m e s p a s s i o n a t e a n d c o n f e s s e s

t o h i m h e r l o v e . H e i s s t i l l c o l d a n d s h e i s j e a l o u s . Find-

i n g h e l o v e s n o o t h e r , s h e a s k s i f b e i s a m a n w h o i s t h u s

u n m o v e d b y w o m a n ' s l o v e . H e t h e n p r o p o s e s i l l i c i t l o v e ;

t h i s s h e r e f u s e s w i t h a n i n d i g n a t i o n t h a t t u r n s t o s o r r o w.

Then she becomes angry, and when her anger melts, the

h e a r t o f h e r b e l o v e d a l s o m e l t s . T h e n h e r f i n a l e o f j o y

i s d a n c e d . M u c h i n t h i s d a n c e w a s t o u c h i n g , m u c h w a s

e x c i t i n g , a n d i t w a s a l l o f a b s o r b i n g i n t e r e s t ; when the

g i r l s a t d o w n b r e a t h l e s s , i t f o r t h e f i r s t t i m e o c c u r r e d t o

m e t h a t s h e h a d b e e n d a n c i n g f i f t e e n m i n u t e s w i t h o u t a n

i n s t a n t ' s p a u s e .

I might have enjoyed this dance a little more bad I

n o t h a d t o a c t p a s s i v e l y t h e p a r t o f t h e b e l o v e d o b j e c t .

T h e g i r l a p p r o a c h e d m e , c l a s p e d h e r h a n d s p a s s i o n a t e l y



THE DRAMA OF HARISCHANDRA 1 5 7

u n d e r m y o b d u r a t e e y e s , k n e e l e d t o m e . I d a r e d n o t

glance at the English ladies, who I knew were smiling

b e h i n d t h e i r f a n s , a n d f o r e s a w t h e n a r r a t i v e w i t t y M r s .

Thwaites would send to our mutual friends in London .

In an interval for ices and sherbets the Nautches came

u p i n a p e r f u n c t o r y w a y t o h a v e t h e i r m y s t i c a l o r n a m e n t s

l o o k e d a t ,-r m l e t s , b r a c e l e t s , e t c . , -s i l e n t , i m p a s s i v e ,

a n d a u t o m a t i c d u r i n g t h e p r o c e s s .

T h e r e w e r e o t h e r d a n c e s , o n e o f t h e m o s t s t r i k i n g b e i n g

a d a n c e t o t h e w o r d s , " M o t h e r , a s c o r p i o n h a s s t u n g m e . "

T h e s e w o r d s a r e e n d l e s s l y r e p e a t e d i n t h e c h a n t , t h o u g h

i n v a r y i n g t o n e s , w h i l e t h e d a n c e r g o e s t h r o u g h a l l t h e

d r a m a o f p a i n , i l l n e s s , p a r t i n g , f a i n t n e s s , d e a t h . This

w a s s k i l f u l , a n d s o w e r e a l l t h e d a n c e s . Those in which

a l l t h e N a u t c h g i r l s d a n c e d -e s p e c i a l l y o n e i n w h i c h t h e y

f e n c e d w i t h e a c h o t h e r - w e r e m o r e b e a u t i f u l ; b u t t h e

v e r y a n c i e n t d a n c e s , r e p r e s e n t i n g l o v e a n d d e a t h , w e r e t h e

m o s t i n t e r e s t i n g .

After, the dances were over I had an unexpected de-

l i g h t i n h e a r i n g t h e s i n g i n g o f t h e c l o s i n g a c t s o f t h e

great Tamil drama of " Harischandra . " I f i r s t m a d e t h e

acquaintance of this wonderful Passion Play through a

translation by Sir Kumara Swamy . H a r i s c h a n d r a i s " t h e

M a r t y r o f T r u t h . " T h e p r o l o g u e i s i n t h e c o u r t o f t h e

s u p r e m e d e i t y , I n d r a , w h e r e t h e t r u t h f u l n e s s o f t h e k i n g

i s b y o n e d e c l a r e d i n f l e x i b l e , t h i s b e i n g d e n i e d b y a n o t h e r .

T h e r e s u l t i s a w a g e r . H a r i s c h a n d r a i s s u b j e c t e d t o t h e

m o s t t e r r i b l e o r d e a l s i n o r d e r t o i n d u c e h i m t o t e l l a l i e .

H e s t a n d s b y h i s w o r d a t c o s t o f h i s k i n g d o m , h i s w i f e , h i s

c h i l d , - these and himself becoming slaves. In the e nd

a l l t h e i r p e r s e c u t o r s t h r o w o f f d i s g u i s e a n d a r e s h o w n t o

b e g o d s , a n d e v e r y t h i n g i s r e s t o r e d . The story is much

l i k e t h a t o f J o b i n t h e P u r a n i c v e r s i o n , w h e r e t h e t e s t i s



158 MY PILGRIMAGE

n o t o f H a r i s c h a n d r a ' s v e r a c i t y , b u t o f h i s f i d e l i t y t o h i s

p r o m i s e o f g o l d f o r a s a c r i f i c e t o t h e g o d s w h e n h e n o

l o n g e r h a s t h e g o l d , -h i s p r o p e r t y b e i n g d e s t r o y e d , a s

i n t h e c a s e o f J o b . T h i s g o l d h e o b t a i n s b y s e l l i n g h i m -

s e l f a n d f a m i l y i n t o s l a v e r y . T h e p o p u l a r a n d d r a m a t i c

f o r m h a s h u m a n i z e d t h e e a r l i e r a n d r e l i g i o u s m o t i v e f r o m

which Job was probably derived . My friend who sat by

me translated in a low voice every thought as it was

sung, and then I began to appreciate something of the

m e a n i n g o f H i n d u m u s i c . T h e s i n g e r w a s a m a n o v e r

t h i r t y , w i t h a f i n e v o i c e , v e r y f l e x i b l e ; a n d t h o u g h a

s l i g h t o c c a s i o n a l i n c l i n a t i o n o f t h e h e a d w a s h i s o n l y g e s -

t u r e , t h e p e r s o n s o f t h e d r a m a s e e m e d t o l i v e i n h i s t o n e s .

T h e r e i s o n e p a r t o f t h e d r a m a w h e r e t h e w i f e o f H a r i s -

c h a n d r a , S a n d r a m a t i , f i n d s h e r o n l y s o n d e a d , b i t t e n b y

a s e r p e n t . S h e s a y s t o h i m , " W h y d o y o u n ot s p e ak t o

m e ? W h a t h a v e I d o n e t h a t y o u d o n o t r e p l y o r l o o k a t

m e ? " On e c o u l d h a r d l y r e f r a i n f r o m t e a r s w h e n t h e

m a n sa n g th e s e w o r d s . A n d a g a i n w h e n H a r i s c h a n d r a ,

o r d e r e d t o b e t h e e x e c u t i o n e r o f h i s w i f e ( c h a r g e d w i t h

c h i l d - m u r d e r ) , s a y s , " S a n d r a m a t i , m y w i f e , l a y t h y b e a d

o n t h e b l o c k , t h y s w e e t f a c e t u r n e d t o t h e e a s t ! " T h e

v o i c e w a s h e r e m o s t p l a i n t i v e , a n d s u d d e n l y r a n g o u t t r i -

umphantly when the sword of execution becomes a neck-

lace of pearls on her neck, and the gods pay homage to

t h e i n f l e x i b l e " Martyr of Truth . "

T h e r e i s a f a v o u r i t e p o p u l a r p i c t u r e i n I n d i a o f S a n -

dramati bringing to her husband in the cemetery their

d e a d s o n .

During this last dramat ic cantata I felt the sounds

w e a v i n g a s p e l l a r o u n d m e s u c h a s I h a d a v a g u e r e m e m -

b r a n c e o f h a v i n g o n c e b e f o r e f e l t . O n m y w a y h o m e i t

came to me : t h e s e c r e t o f W a g n e r l a y i n t h i s H i n d u - S i n -



1 6 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

f o l d e d a w a y a s a s h e a t h u n d e r a g l o w i n g s p i r i t u a l f l o w e r

i n w h i c h t h e i r e s s e n c e i s e x p r e s s e d .

O n t h e r e p r e s e n t a t i o n s o f M r . P h e l p s h i s I n d i a n

t e a c h e r w a s i n v i t e d t o v i s i t H a r v a r d U n i v e r s i t y ; and an

address given there by Ramanathan, in November, 1905,

in his admirable English, may fairly be regarded as a

landmark in the history of the famous college founded

b y P u r i t a n i s m . H e v i g o r o u s l y a s s a i l e d t h e n o t i o n t h a t

developments of invention and machinery imply either

p r o g r e s s o r c i v i l i z a t i o n . The only " p r o g r e s s " i s t h a t o f

individual soul into harmony with " G o d . " ( B u t w h i c h

G o d , 0 f r i e n d ! )

J u d g e A r u n a c h a l a m i s a l s o a f i n e w r i t e r , a n d h a s s e n t

m e a n e s s a y p r i n t e d i n C o l o m b o o n " L u m i n o u s S l e e p . "

I t i s a n e x t r e m e l y i n t e r e s t i n g c o m p a r i s o n o f t h e m y s t i -

cal statements in Plato concerning the power of "pure

abstraction," "absolute knowledge," obtained through

s l e e p o f t h e s e n s e s , b e y o n d d r e a m s , w i t h t h e l i k e d o c -

t r i n e s i n I n d i a . " T o t h e w i s e m e n o f t h e E a s t t h e s e

a r e m a t t e r s q u i t e a s a m e n a b l e t o t h e t e s t o f e x p e r i e n c e

a n d v e r i f i a b l e b y i t a s t h e f a c t s o f p h y s i c a l s c i e n c e . Ac-

cordingly in India systematic study has been made and

s e d u l o u s l y p u r s u e d f o r c e n t u r i e s , a n d t h e m e t h o d s o f a t -

tainment, involving physical, intellectual, and moral

d i s c i p l i n e , h a v e b e e n r e d u c e d t o s o m e t h i n g l i k e a s c i e n c e ,

w h i c h t e a c h e r s , c a r r y i n g o n t h e a n c i e n t t r a d i t i o n s , s t i l l

t e a c h , n o t f o r g a i n o r s h o w , b u t f r o m p u r e l o v e , t o p u p i l s

f o u n d w o r t h y o f i n s t r u c t i o n . " T h e j u d g e d o e s n o t h i n t

that he has himself ever had any inner experiences of

t h i s k i n d . S u c h v i s i o n s a r e n o t " v e r i f i a b l e , " b e c a u s e s o u l -

s e n s e s c a n n o t b e t r u s t e d l i k e b o d i l y s e n s e s , a n d c a n n o t

like these be checked by scientific apparatus . I n a n y

i n s a n e a s y l u m w e m a y f i n d p e r s o n s w h o s e m i n d s a r e f i l l e d



LOST PERSONALITY 1 6 1

w i t h d e l u s i o n s w h i l e i n t h e i r b o d i e s e v e r y n e r v e i s f u l f i l -

l i n g i t s f u n c t i o n , a t h o u s a n d v a l v e s o p e n i n g a n d c l o s i n g

w i t h p r e c i s i o n .

A n d t h e n c u i b on o? W hy sh ou ld an y o ne de si re to

h a v e h i s p e r s o n a l i t y s w a l l o w e d u p b y a n y d e i t y ? W h a t

h a p p i n e s s i s i n t h e s e a b s t r a c t i o n s a n d v i s i o n s ? O n e

lovely Lady Arunachalam or Lady Ramanathan moving

a b o u t h e r g a r d e n a n d h o u s e h o l d i s s u r e l y w o r t h m o r e

t h a n a l l t h e f a i r p h a n t o m s o f w i s d o m a n d t h e t r a n s l u n a r y

b e a u t i e s w i t h o u t b l o o d o r p a s s i o n .



C H A P T E R V I I I

Arabi in exile -Relations between Egyptians and English in Colombo

-Arabi's Mohammedan Christianity -A d a m ' s P e a k a n d A r a r a t-H o w A r a b i ' s l i f e w a s s a v e d-T h e E n g l i s h d e f e n d e r s o f A r a b i -A r a b i ' s

s i t u a t i o n a t s e v e n t y -C o n j u r e r s -T h e g i a n t t u r t l e o f C o l o m b o -T h e

h e a r t a n d l i f e o f B u d d h i s m i n C e y l o n .

A MILE along the seashore, behind a red-turbaned

T a m i l a n d a P e r s i a n p o n y , t h e n t w o m i l e s t h r o u g h

s l u m b r o u s v i l l a g e s a n d l e a f y l a n e s , b r o u g h t m e t o a g a t e w a y

m a r k e d " B o n a i r , " t h e v i l l a o f e x i l e d A r a b i . T h e r o a d

w o u n d t h r o u g h s o m e t w o a c r e s o f t h i c k p a l m s t o t h e p r e t t y

b u n g a l o w . O n t h e v e r a n d a s a t f o u r o r f i v e g e n t l e m e n o f

t h e E g y p t i a n t y p e , a n d I k n e w t h a t t h e l a r g e f i n e - l o o k i n g

m a n w h o a r o s e t o r e c e i v e m e w a s A r a b i , t h o u g h I h a d

n e v e r s e e n h i s p o r t r a i t . A friend had prearranged this

m e e t i n g , w h i c h I d e s i r e d m a i n l y b e c a u s e h e w a s t h e m o s t

l e a r n e d r e p r e s e n t a t i v e o f I s l a m i n E g y p t . H e h e l d m y

hand for a moment, and his eye seeme d to ask, "Friend

o r f o e ? " H e t h e n t u r n e d t o a y o u n g m a n , w h o s p o k e

E n g l i s h a n d i n t r o d u c e d u s .

A r a b i w a s a m o r e s t r i k i n g f i g u r e t h a n I h a d e x p e c t e d .

T h e o n l y i m m e d i a t e s i g n o f h i s n a t i o n a l i t y w a s h i s f e z ;

o t h e r w i s e h e w a s d r e s s e d i n p u r e w h i t e g a r m e n t s o f

F r e n c h f a s h i o n , e v e r y t h i n g a b o u t h i m b e i n g s c r u p u l o u s l y

n e a t . H e w a s u n d e r f i f t y , f u l l s i x f e e t t a l l , a n d o f a d -

m i r a b l e p r o p o r t i o n s , w i t h t h e l i g h t e s t o f e a s t e r n c o m -

p l e x i o n s , a l a r g e s o f t e y e , c l e a r - c u t f e a t u r e s , a n d a f a c e

s o s m o o t h , a b r o w s o f u r r o w l e s s , t h a t o n e c o u l d h a r d l y

associate him with any great struggle or tragedy . H e

o f f e r e d m e c i g a r e t t e s , l i t o n e h i m s e l f , a n d t h r o u g h t h e



A C H M E T A R A B I T H E E G YP T I A N

" F r o n i m y p r i s o n i n C a i r o , i n t h e d a y o f m y t r o u b l e , t o J o h n M a c d o n a l d , t h e f r i e n d o f

t h e o p p r e s s e d , c o r r e s p o n d e n t o f t h e D a i l y N e w s "



ARABI IN EXILE 1 6 3

i n t e r p r e t e r b e g a n c o n v e r s a t i o n b y s a y i n g t h a t h e h a d

r e c e i v e d m a n y f r i e n d l y e x p r e s s i o n s f r o m E n g l a n d , w h i c h

s u r p r i s e d h i m . I t o l d h i m I h a d r e p e a t e d l y h e a r d i n -

f l u e n t i a l E n g l i s h m e n e x p r e s s f r i e n d l y f e e l i n g s t o w a r d s

h i m . « W h a t i s t h e c a u s e ? " 1 1 B e c a u s e t h e E n g l i s h l o v e

f r e e d o m , a n d n u m b e r s b e l i e v e t h a t t h e E g y p t i a n s y o u

l e d w e r e u n d e r o p p r e s s i o n ." He was silent a moment,

t h e n s a i d , " T h e r e a r e m i l l i o n s b o u n d u n d e r o n e . " In

f u r t h e r c o n v e r s a t i o n h e s a i d , ° ° N o , I d o n o t f e e l s o m u c h

mental trouble now . I h a ve n o t b e e n a w a y f r o m C o-

lombo, though I may move hereafter . I h a v e s a t i n

t h i s v e r a n d a e v e r y d a y . T h e h o u s e i s p l e a s a n t ; I a m

k i n d l y t r e a t e d b y t h e E n g l i s h ; i n m i n d I a m n o t t r o u b l e d ,

b e c a u s e I h a v e p e r f e c t f a i t h t h a t E g y p t w i l l b e f r e e .

T h e w o r l d w i l l f i n d i t n e c e s s a r y . I l o o k o n w i t h d e e p

f e e l i n g , b u t w i t h n o f e a r a s t o t h e f i n a l r e s u l t . " In

a n o t h e r c o n n e c t i o n h e s a i d , " W e l l , y e s ; the idea has

s o m e t i m e s e n t e r e d m y m i n d o f a v i s i t t o E n g l a n d ; b u t

t h a t r e s t s w i t h a n o t h e r w i l l t h a n m i n e . " He several

t i m e s a l l u d e d t o t h e k i n d n e s s o f t h e E n g l i s h i n C o ,

l o m b o . N o u n p l e a s a n t i n c i d e n t o f h i s r e s i d e n c e t h e r e

w a s k n o w n t o h i m , b u t a n E n g l i s h l a d y t o l d m e t h a t a t

a b a l l t o w h i c h A r a b i a n d h i s c o m p a n i o n s w e r e i n v i t e d

s o m e l a d i e s w e r e a n n o y e d , s u p p o s i n g t h e y w e r e l a u g h e d

a t w h i l e d a n c i n g . T h e c u s t o m o f d a n c i n g i s o n e t o w h i c h

t h e r i g i d M o s l e m m i n d c a n n o t a d a p t i t s e l f ; a n d w h i l e

t h e E n g l i s h a r e s o m e t i m e s s h o c k e d b y e a s t e r n n u d i t y ,

O r i e n t a l s a r e e q u a l l y s h o c k e d b y t h e d e l i b e r a t e l y d e c o l l e t e

d r e s s .

I d i d n o t k n o w t h e n t h a t t h e l i f e o f A r a b i h a d b e e n

p r i v a t e l y p l e a d e d f o r b y J o h n B r i g h t , b u t f o u n d m u c h

s a t i s f a c t i o n i n r e m i n d i n g h i m t h a t t h e g r e a t C o m m o n e r

h a d w i t h d r a w n f r o m t h e G l a d s t o n e C a b i n e t b e c a u s e o f t h e



164 MY PILGRIMAGE

b o m b a r d m e n t o f A l e x a n d r i a . T h e g r a n d o l d Q u a k e r w a s

t o l d b y G l a d s t o n e t h a t A r a b i w a s a b a d m a n a n d d e s e r v e d

t h e f a t e t o w h i c h h e h a d l e d s o m a n y , b u t t h e h o p e o f g e t -

t i n g t h e g r e a t p o p u l a r l e a d e r b a c k i n t o h i s C a b i n e t w a s

p r o b a b l y a p o t e n t r e i n f o r c e m e n t o f t h e g a l l a n t E n g l i s h

band that induced the premier to commute the Egyp-

t i a n ' s s e n t e n c e t o e x i l e . '

In common with other friends of Professor Edward

' John Macdonald, then representative of the London D a i l y N e w s i n

C a i r o , w r o t e t h e l e t t e r s t h a t b r o u g h t t h e E n g l i s h c o n s c i e n c e a n d s e n t i m e n t

t o s h i e l d A r a b i f r o m f u r y i n C a i r o , w h e r e p r o u d C h e r i f P a s h a w a s t h r e a t -

ening that if Arabi was not executed he (Cherif) would leave Egypt .

M a c d o n a l d ' s l e t t e r s b r o u g h t v i v i d l y b e f o r e u s t h e h o n e s t a n d h e r o i c , a l b e i t

f a n a t i c a l , p r i s o n e r , w h o m h e c o n s t a n t l y v i s i t e d . W i t h M a c d o n a l d a n d

h i s w i f e ( b i o g r a p h e r o f R o u s s e a u ) I h a v e r e c e n t l y ( 1 9 0 6 ) t a l k e d o v e r t h e

c a s e o f A r a b i . A p h o t o g r a p h o f A r a b i i n p r i s o n - s o m e w h a t d i m -w a s

g i v e n b y h i m t o M a c d o n a l d , w i t h a n i n s c r i p t i o n i n A r a b i c w h i c h m a y b e

t h u s t r a n s l a t e d : " F r o m m y p r i s o n i n C a i r o i n t h e d a y o f m y t r o u b l e t o

J o h n M a c d o n a l d , t h e f r i e n d o f t h e o p p r e s s e d , c o r r e s p o n d e n t o f t h e D a i l y

News . -Achmet Arabi the Egpytian . "

Arabi always added " the Egyptian " t o h i s s i g n a t u r e .

W i l f r e d B l u n t s p e n t a b o u t £ 5 0 0 0 t o s a v e t h e l i f e o f A r a b i , a n d v a l u a b l e

a i d i n L o n d o n w a s g i v e n b y H e n r y L a b o u c h e r e , M . P . , a n d J e s s e C o l l i n g s ,

M. P. M r . A . W . B r o a d l e y w a s v e r y a c t i v e i n t h e w h o l e a f f a i r , a n d h i s

book, H o w w e d e f e n d e d A r a b i , t e l l s t h e t r u e s t o r y .

A r a b i ' s e x i l e i n C e y l o n e n d e d a b o u t s e v e n y e a r s a f t e r m y v i s i t , b u t i t

a p p e a r s t h a t h i s e n e m i e s h a v e c o n t r i v e d t o g i v e h i m a w o r s e e x i l e i n

C a i r o . I n a n o t e o f J u n e 2 9 , 1 9 0 6 , M r . B r o a d l e y w r i t e s m e : " I f o r m e d

a v e r y h i g h o p i n i o n o f A r a b i ' s p a t r i o t i c c o n d u c t a n d a b s o l u t e d i s i n t e r e s t -

e d n e s s . W e h a v e c o r r e s p o n d e d e v e r s i n c e . I h e a r d f r o m h i m o n l y a f e w

d a y s a g o . H e i s n o w a b o u t s e v e n t y y e a r s o l d -a g r e a t a g e f o r a n E g y p -

t i a n - a n d i s v e r y m i s e r a b l e . H e g e t s £ 6 5 0 a y e a r , a n d t h a t s u m i s n o t

s u f f i c i e n t f o r t h e w a n t s o f h i s a b n o r m a l l y l a r g e f a m i l y , - f o r A r a b i i s

m a r r i e d a n d h a s s e v e n t e e n o r e i g h t e e n c h i l d r e n . H e i s b o y c o t t e d b y a l l

t h e o f f i c i a l s e t i n C a i r o a n d i s s t i l l d e p r i v e d o f a l l c i v i l r i g h t s . H e w a s

m u c h h a p p i e r i n C e y l o n . "

B r e n t a n o ' s h o u s e i n C a i r o s o u g h t i n v a i n t o f i n d f o r m e a p o r t r a i t o f

A r a b i ! I n t h e o u b l i e t t e o f t h i s b r a v e m a n i t m a y b e h o p e d w i l l b e b u r i e d

t h e d e l u s i o n t h a t a p e o p l e c a n s u c c e s s f u l l y f i g h t a n y d e v i l w i t h f i r e - h i s

own element .



CONVERSATIONS WITH ARABI 1 6 5

P a l m e r , I h a d d e p l o r e d t h e d e a t h i n t h a t E g y p t i a n s t r u g -

g l e o f t h e f i n e s t l i n g u i s t i n E n g l a n d . B u t a m i d o u r g r i e f

i n L o n d o n I h a d p o i n t e d o u t i n a p u b l i c d i s c o u r s e t h a t

h i s e x e c u t i o n b y t h e B e d o u i n s w a s a l e g i t i m a t e a c t o f w a r ;

a n d b a d s o l e m n l y a r r a i g n e d t h e E n g l i s h g o v e r n m e n t f o r

u t i l i z i n g t h e k n o w l e d g e o f e a s t e r n l a n g u a g e s i n w h i c h

y o u n g P a l m e r e x c e l l e d t o t u r n h i m i n t o a s p y a n d s e n d

h i m o f f w i t h m o n e y t o b r i b e t h e s o l d i e r s o f A r a b i a n d

m a k e t h e m t r a i t o r s t o t h e i r c a u s e . A l a s , t h a t a b r i l -

l i a n t s c h o l a r s h o u l d h a v e a l l o w e d a n y g o v e r n m e n t t o t e a r

h i m f r o m h i s u n i v e r s i t y f o r a n i n g l o r i o u s m i s s i o n . B u t

s o d o g o v e r n m e n t s c a s t t h e i r c h i l d r e n t o t h e w o l v e s f o r

t h e s a k e o f v i c t o r y .

I w a s t o l d t h a t s o m e h a d h e a r d s o b s i s s u i n g f r o m A r a -

b i ' s c h a m b e r a t m i d n i g h t . N o r d i d I f e e l s u r e t h e s t o r y

w a s m e r e g o s s i p . P r o u d a n d s t r o n g i n f a i t h a s t h a t b i g

E g y p t i a n f e l t h i m s e l f , h e r a r e l y s m i l e d , a n d t h e r e w a s

s o m e t h i n g p a t h e t i c i n h i s r e m a r k , " I w a i t t o s e e w h a t

E n g l a n d w i l l d o . "

A s e r v a n t e n t e r e d w i t h c o f f e e , a n d I w a s g l a d t h a t t h e

t r i a l s o f e x i l e d i d n o t i n c l u d e t h e n e c e s s i t y o f d r i n k i n g

t h e s t u f f c a l l e d c o f f e e i n C e y l o n . T h e c o f f e e w a s E g y p -

t i a n , a n d w a s s e r v e d i n t i n y c u p s h o l d i n g e a c h a b o u t t w o

t h i m b l e f u l s . On one cup was inscribed, in English,

" T h i n k o f m e , " a n d o n a n o t h e r , " F r o m a F r i e n d ." Anx-

i o u s t o a v o i d p o l i t i c s , I a l l u d e d t o t h e M o s l e m t r a d i t i o n

t h a t C e y l o n w a s s e l e c t e d a s t h e p l a c e o f A d a m ' s e x i l e ,

i t s b e a u t y b e i n g s o m e c o m p e n s a t i o n f o r t h e l o s s o f P a r a -

d i s e , a n d e x p r e s s e d t h e h o p e t h a t h e , A r a b i , a l s o f o u n d

i n i t s c h a r m s s o m e m i t i g a t i o n o f e x i l e . I s a w h i s f a c e

b r i g h t e n ; t h e W a h a b i - t h e e n t h u s i a s t o f C a i r o U n i -

v e r s i t y - w a s r e v e a l e d . H e w e n t o n w i t h r a p i d i t y t o d e -

s c r i b e b o w , d i v o r c e d f r o m h i s w i f e , A d a m h a d c o m e t o



1 6 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

C e y l o n ( t h e i s t h m u s i s s t i l l c a l l e d A d a m ' s B r i d g e ) , a n d

h o w a t l e n g t h h e t r a v e l l e d a w a y , f i n d i n g t h e c h a r m s o f

C e yl o n n ot h i ng co m pa re d w i th t h o se o f E ve . H e r h e

f o u n d a t A r a r a t , -w h i c h s i g n i f i e s " g r e a t w o m a n ." She

h a d b e c o m e a g i a n t h u n t r e s s , a n d A d a m h a d t o w o o h e r

a g a i n b e f o r e s h e w o u l d g i v e u p h e r f r e e d o m . ' I c o u l d n o t

g a t h e r c l e a r l y w h e t h e r h e s h a r e d t h e n o t i o n t h a t t h e h u g e

oblong mark on Adam's Peak is Adam's footprint . H e

w a s w i l l i n g , I t h i n k , t o s u r r e n d e r t h a t f o o t p r i n t t o B u d d h a .

K n o w i n g t h a t A r a b i w a s a s c h o l a r , I h a d h o p e d t h a t b e

m i g h t b e i n t e r e s t e d i n t h e P e r s i a n p o e t s ,-i r d u s i , H a f i z ,

p e r h a p s e v e n O m a r K h a y y a m . I f o u n d , h o w e v e r , t h a t h e

k n e w o n l y t h a t t h e y w e r e u n o r t h o d o x . He was a Wahabi,

a M o s l e m P u r i t a n , a n d a l l t h e p o e t r y i n t h e w o r l d w a s

w o r t h l e s s b e s i d e a l i n e o f t h e K o r a n . " T h e r e i s o n e

G o d , " h e s a i d , " t h e c r e a t o r o f a l l t h i n g s , - o f m o u n -

t a i n s , s e a , e a r t h , s k y ! D o y o u n o t b e l i e v e i n a G o d ? "

I n A r a b i ' s W a h a b i d e i t y I d i d n o t b e l i e v e , t h e K o r a n i c

A l l a h b e i n g t o m y m i n d o n e o f t h e l e a s t l o v a b l e o r b e -

l i e v a b l e i m a g e s i n t h e p a n t h e o n o f i n v i s i b l e i d o l s . W h i l e

o u r i n t e r p r e t e r w a s c o n v e y i n g h i s q u e s t i o n I f r a m e d s o m e

v a g u e s t a t e m e n t f r o m m y p o i n t o f v i e w , w h i c h I f e a r

m y s t i f i e d h i m , a n d h a s t e n e d t o c h a n g e t h e s u b j e c t .

T h e m o s t c u r i o u s a n d o b s t i n a t e e r r o r i n C h r i s t e n d o m

i s t h e n o t i o n t h a t t h e M o s l e m s a r e n o t C h r i s t i a n s , a n d

t h a t M o h a m m e d o c c u p i e s t h e p l a c e o f C h r i s t . They are

n o t o n l y C h r i s t i a n s , b u t t h e o n l y o n e s i n t h e E a s t w h o

m a i n t a i n l i t e r a l l y a l l o f t h e m i r a c l e s a s c r i b e d t o C h r i s t i n

t h e g o s p e l s , o r r e l a t i n g t o h i s b i r t h . I t i s v e r y r a r e t o

f i n d a m o n g t h e m a s c e p t i c .

1 T h i s l e g e n d t h a t A d a m a n d E v e h a d q u a r r e l l e d , a p p a r e n t l y o n t h e i s s u e

o f f e m i n i n e " f r e e d o m , " l o o k s a s i f i n s o m e r e g i o n s t h e r e h a d b l e n d e d w i t h

i t t h e l e g e n d o f L i l i t h , A d a m ' s f i r s t w i f e , w h o l e f t h i m b e c a u s e h e d e c l a r e d

h i m s e l f h e r d i v i n e l y a u t h o r i z e d m a s t e r .



CHRIST AND MOHAMMED 167

In my talk with Arabi we spoke of the M ahdi (Mo-

h a m m e d A h m e d ) i n t h e S o u d a n . T h e s o l d i e r s o f A r a b i

h a d b e e n d r a g g e d t o f i g h t a g a i n s t t h e M a h d i , b u t G o r d o n

h a d n o t y e t b e e n s e n t t o b r i n g b a c k t h e s e " g a r r i s o n s . "

A r a b i s a i d t o m e : " T h e r e i s a n e x p e c t a t i o n g e n e r a l l y

p r e v a i l i n g i n t h e M o s l e m w o r l d t h a t t h e M a h d i i s t o

a p p e a r a b o u t t h i s t i m e a n d l e a d i n t h e t r a n s f o r m a t i o n

o f t h e w o r l d . H e w i l l o v e r t h r o w t h e p o w e r s o f w r o n g a n d

a l l i d o l a t r y ; a n d w i t h h i m w i l l p r e s e n t l y a p p e a r J e s u s

C h r i s t , w h o w i l l r e b u k e t h e e r r o r s o f t h o s e w h o c l a i m t o

b e t h e o n l y C h r i s t i a n s , a n d w i l l u n i t e a l l i n t h e w o r s h i p

o f o n e G o d . T h e r e l i g i o n s o f o r m e d w i l l t h e n c e f o r t h b e

t h a t o f t h e w h o l e w o r l d . " I a s k e d w h y i t s h o u l d n o t b e

M o h a m m e d h i m s e l f i n s t e a d o f C h r i s t w h o w o u l d a p p e a r

w i t h t h e M a h d i a n d u n i t e h i s f o l l o w e r s w i t h t h o s e o f

C h r i s t . He said : " M o h a m m e d c a n n o t a p p e a r a g a i n o n

e a r t h ; h e i s d e a d . " " B u t i s n o t C h r i s t s i m i l a r l y d e a d ? "

" N o , C h r i s t n e v e r d i e d . There are two men who never

d i e d , - E l i a s a n d J e s u s . He who hung upon the cross

w a s a m e r e e f f i g y o f J e s u s . T h e c r u c i f i e r s w e r e d e c e i v e d .

J e s u s s t i l l l i v e s , a n d a t t h e r i g h t h o u r w i l l a p p e a r . E l i a s

f o u n d t h e w a t e r o f i m m o r t a l i t y i n a c a v e a n d d r a n k o f

i t ; h e c a n n o t d i e . B u t M o h a m m e d i s a d e a d m a n - h e

i s i n P a r a d i s e . "

A r a b i ' s v o i c e b e c a m e f e r v i d a s h e s a i d t h i s , a n d h i s e y e

e x p a n d e d , a s i f h o l d i n g t h e v i s i o n o f i n n u m e r a b l e m i l l i o n s

t u r n i n g f r o m a d o r a t i o n o f a c r u c i f i e d e f f i g y t o w o r s h i p o f

Allah .

A r a b i e x p r e s s e d a l i v e l y i n t e r e s t i n A m e r i c a. He con-

s i d e r e d t h e l a t e c i v i l w a r , " w h i c h e n d e d w i t h t h e l i b e r -

a t i o n o f f o u r m i l l i o n s l a v e s , " t h e i d e a l e v e n t o f t h e c e n t u r y ,

a n d a d d e d : " A l a s , t h e r e a r e s t i l l s o m a n y s l a v e s ! There

a r e , a s I s a i d , t w e l v e m i l l i o n s b o u n d t o t h e w i l l o f o n e



1 68 MY PILGRIMAGE

m a n . B u t i t c a n n o t r e m a i n s o . I s i t h e r e o n t h i s v e -

randa from week to week and study English every day .

That is my main oc cupation . What will the English do

i n E g y p t ? " T h i s l a s t q u e s t i o n w a s n o t u t t e r e d e x a c t l y t o

m e ; it was a problem slowly put to the horizon toward

w h i c h h i s e y e s w e r e d i r e c t e d . I t h e n a r o s e t o g o . A g a i n

his form towered before me with its grand proportions . _

T h e r e w a s t h e u t m o s t p o l i s h a n d g r a c e f u l n e s s i n t h e w a y

i n w h i c h h e p a r t e d f r o m m e . H e i n v i t e d m e t o c a l l a g a i n ,

b u t I c o u l d n o t d o s o . T h e r e w a s a g o o d d e a l o f f a s c i n a -

t i o n a b o u t t h e m a n , a n d I d i d n o t w o n d e r a t h i s i n f l u e n c e

o v e r h i s c o u n t r y m e n . I l e f t h i m w i t h t h e c o n v i c t i o n t h a t

h e w a s a v e r y a b l e m a n i n d e e d -a genuine patriot -the

t r u e r e p r e s e n t a t i v e o f a p e o p l e , b u t a l s o w i t h a d a w n i n g

s u s p i c i o n t h a t r e l i g i o u s e n t h u s i a s m , n o t t o s a y f a n a t i c i s m ,

h a d m o r e t o d o w i t h h i s a g i t a t i o n i n E g y p t t h a n m o s t o f

h i s E n g l i s h s y m p a t h i z e r s s u p p o s e d .

J u s t a s I w a s b i d d i n g f a r e w e l l t o A r a b i a n d h i s c o m -

r a d e s a m a n a n d b o y e m e r g e d f r o m t h e w o o d s , -f o r t h e r e

w a s n o h a b i t a t i o n n e a r B o n a i r , -t h e m a n b e a r i n g a

s o r t o f r a t t l e w i t h w h i c h h e a c c o m p a n i e d h i s s o n g , t h e

boy a bowl . N o n e o f u s p r e s e n t u n d e r s t o o d t h e s o n g , b u t

the theme was sweet . They were well dressed, and the

b o y , a y e l l o w - t i n t e d E r o s , d i d n o t e x t e n d h i s b o w l f o r

m o n e y . T h e y m a d e o b e i s a nc e a n d p a s s e d o n . A r a bi r e -

g a r d e d t h e v i s i t a s o n e o f r e s p e c t a n d s y m p a t h y , a n d w a s

evidently moved . H i s f a c e f l u s h e d w i t h s e n s i b i l i t y , a n d

h e t o u c h e d t h e b e a u t i f u l l o n g h a i r o f t h e b o y w i t h a l i t t l e

c a r e s s .

I d o n o t b e l i e v e t h a t a n y o n e o f t h e E n g l i s h r u l e r s i n

E g y p t , o r o f t h e E n g l i s h g e n e r a l s t h e r e , w a s a g r a n d e r

m a n t h a n A r a b i .

W h a t m o s t i m p r e s s e d m e a b o u t A r a b i w a s , I t h i n k , h i s



CONJURERS 1 6 9

v e r a c i t y . I t w a s i n c o n c e i v a b l e t h a t t h i s t r a n s p a r e n t

m a n w a s s t r a t e g i s t e n o u g h t o b e a s u c c e s s f u l m i n i s t e r o f

w a r . I n d e e d c a n d o u r a p p e a r e d t o m e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f a l l

t h e M o h a m m e d a n s I m e t o n m y t r a v e l s . A C h r i s t i a n

African envoy from Liberia to a European court told me

o f a p o o r n e g r o w h o w a s p u z z l e d a s t o t h e r i g h t r e l i g i o n ,

and an English agent said to him, " If you want to be

a good man you had better be in this neighbourhood a

M o h a m m e d a n ; if you want to make money, be a Chris-

t i a n . "

While wandering about the streets in Colombo I en-

countered a Sinhalese boy of about sixteen years who

e n t r e a t e d m e t o w i t n e s s h i s c o n j u r i n g t r i c k s . He cheated

m y s e n s e s c l e v e r l y , b u t i n t e r e s t e d m e m o s t w i t h h i s c o b r a .

He took from a basket the large hooded reptile which

reared half its body from the ground and when he piped

t o i t s w a y e d i n g o o d t i m e f r o m s i d e t o s i d e . H e p r e s s e d

t h e r u p e e I l o a n e d i n t o t h e c o b r a ' s m o u t h s e v e r a l t i m e s ,

each time exclaiming " Poison ! " t h e n o f f e r e d i t b a c k t o

m e a n d w a s s a d d e n e d b y m y a c c e p t i n g i t . H o w e v e r , I

r e t u r n e d i t . I came to Ceylon ex pecting to be waylaid

b y c o b r a s , b u t a t l e n g t h w a s w i l l i n g t o p a y a n e x t r a r u p e e

t o s e e e v e n a p e r f o r m i n g o n e .

Later I saw another conjurer performing the renowned

t r i c k o f m a k i n g a m a n g o g r o w f r o m t h e g r o u n d . I t d i d

n o t i m p r e s s m e m u c h ; b u t s i m p l y b e c a u s e o f t h e s t o r i e s

told about it by travellers, I beckoned this conjurer

i n t o a l o n e l y p l a c e a n d o f f e r e d h i m f i v e r u p e e s t o t e l l m e

h i s s e c r e t . He then opened his property-bag and showed

me three slips of the mango plant, the largest having

o n e l i t t l e m a n g o o n i t . T h e s m a l l e s t i s p u t i n t o a m u s -

s e l s h e l l ; but the stem, bent under compression, will,

w h e n t h e l i d i s r e m o v e d , s t a n d e r e c t . I n p l a n t i n g s u c c e s -



1 70 MY PILGRIMAGE

s i v e l y t h e o t h e r a n d l a r g e r t w o , t h e d e x t e r i t y r e q u i r e d

i s a s s i s t e d b y t h e " p r i e s t , " a c o n f e d e r a t e , a l s o b y t h e

f r e q u e n t l i f t i n g o f t h e h o r s e b l a n k e t f o r t h e p e r f o r m e r s

before the public is allowed to see the grow th . T h e

trick is rendered easy by the length of time required,

during which the spectators are apt to move about and

look at other curious things, returning only when the

f i n a l m i r a c l e i s a n n o u n c e d . I t i s n o t t h e m a n g o t h a t i s

so wonderful, but the growth of the narrative about it

b e t w e e n B o m b a y a n d L o n d o n .

T h e r e w a s , h o w e v e r , n o d e c e p t i o n a b o u t t h e g r e a t C e y l o n

t u r t l e . I t i s a b o u t s i x f e e t l o n g b y f o u r o r f i v e w i d e . I t i s

q u i t e b l i n d , n e v e r d r a w i n g i n i t s h e a d a t t h e a p p r o a c h o f a

s t i c k . W h e n t h i r s t y i t b e l l o w s l i k e a b u l l . I n t h e b a c k o f

t h e t h i c k s h e l l a h o l e o f t h r e e i n c h e s d i a m e t e r h a s b e e n

b o r e d s o t h a t t h e t u r t l e m a y b e s p u r r e d w i t h a s t i c k i n t o

motion . A c c o r d i n g t o t h e t r a d i t i o n i t w a s o v e r a h u n d r e d

y e a r s o l d , b u t t h a t i s a m o d e r a t e e s t i m a t e . I v i s i t e d a n

o l d m a n o f n i n e t y w h o t o l d m e t h a t t h e t u r t l e w a s

n e a r l y o f t h e s a m e s i z e i n h i s b o y h o o d . I t o c c u p i e s a f i e l d

o f s e v e r a l a c r e s a l o n e , a n d n o t h i n g i s c h a r g e d f o r s e e -

i n g i t ; b u t a k e e p e r g o e s o v e r t o c a r r y i t w a t e r w h e n i t

r o a r s .

I s h a l l a l w a y s t h i n k o f C e y l o n a s a n E d e n , a n d o f t h e

Sinhalese as happy children who have not yet eaten of

t h a t t r e e w h i c h P e s s i m i s m c a l l s , C o n s c i o u s n e s s . In the

P a d m a P u r a n a b e a u t i f u l P a r v a t i a s k s t h e g o d S i v a t o

s h o w h e r t h e f i n e s t g a r d e n i n t h e e a r t h ; he conveys her

t o N a u d a n a . I n t h e g a r d e n ' s c e n t r e t h e r e i s a w o n d r o u s

t r e e , t h e K a l p a - t r e e , w h i c h " b e s t o w s a l l t h a t g o d s d e -

s i r e . " I t s s e e d s a r e g e m s . P a r v a t i l o n g s f o r t h e " b e a u t i -

ful gem of a maiden," so Asokasundari was born . B u t

this tree? Kalpa means Time, or an immeasurable era



THE KALPA-TREE 1 7 1

d o e s t h e P u r a n i c f a b l e m e a n t h a t T i m e b r i n g s a b o u t a l l

t h a t t h e g o d s d e s i r e ? I t d o e s n o t a l w a y s b r i n g a b o u t w h a t

m a n d e s i r e s , a n d I d o n o t s u p p o s e t h e f a m o u s f o u n d e r s

a n d p r i e s t h o o d s o f a n y t e m p l e s w o u l d b e s a t i s f i e d w i t h t h e

s h a p e T i m e h a s g i v e n t h e i r g o d s i n C e y l o n , w h i c h r e -

c e i v e d t h e m a l l w i t h t h e l a r g e t o l e r a n c e w i t h w h i c h R o g e r

W i l l i a m s w e l c o m e d i n R h o d e I s l a n d t h e h e r e t i c s e x i l e d

f r o m o t h e r r e g i o n s . M o d l i a r q u o t e s a S i n h a l e s e a s s a y i n g

t o a E u r o p e a n s c e p t i c : " I don't know whether these

t h i n g s b e t r u e o r f a l s e . W h e n w e f a l l s i c k w e t r y e v e r y

m e a n s w i t h i n o u r r e a c h o f g e t t i n g b e t t e r . W e w o r s h i p

B u d d h a , t h e g o d s , a n d t h e d e m o n s , a l l a t o n c e , t o t a k e o u r

c h a n c e o f r e c o v e r i n g f r o m t h e s i c k n e s s t h r o u g h t h e h e l p

o f s o m e o f t h e m . A l l m y c o u n t r y m e n d o s o , a n d I a m o n l y

d o i n g l i k e t h e m . " I t d o e s n o t s e e m t o h a v e o c c u r r e d t o

t h e l o w l y m a n t h a t a n y o n e o f t h e s e p o t e n t b e i n g s m i g h t

b e a " j e a l o u s g o d " a n d o b j e c t t o b e i n g m i x e d u p w i t h

o t h e r d e i t i e s . T h e p h i l o s o p h y d e r i v e d f r o m Buddha is

p u r e p e s s i m i s m , a n d C e y l o n i s i t s a c a d e m i c c e n t r e ; b u t

the Kalpa-tree, Time, in that garden has produced a

p e o p l e p r a c t i c a l l y o p t i m i s t . T h e s e e d s o f t h a t t r e e a r e

g e m s , a n d e a c h h a s t h e p r i c e l e s s g e m - c o n t e n t m e n t -w h i c h k e e p s t h e h e a r t y o u n g t o i t s l a s t b e a t .

T h e K a l p a - t r e e i n o r i e n t a l f o l k - l o r e p r o b a b l y o r i g i n a t e d

~ ~ L a P e a u d e C h a g r i n . " B a l z a c ' s c e n t e n a r i a n s a y s , " T h e

Brahman to whom I owe this talisman explained that

i t w o u l d e f f e c t a m y s t e r i o u s a c c o r d b e t w e e n t h e d e s i r e s

a n d t h e d e s t i n i e s o f i t s p o s s e s s o r . " B u t i t r e q u i r e d E u r o -

p e a n s o p h i s t i c a t i o n t o c o n n e c t w i t h t h e W i s h - t a l i s m a n

t h e m o r a l t h a t e v e r y f u l f i l l e d d e s i r e i s a n o t h e r s t e p i n s u i -

c i d e . W h a t e v e r m a y b e t h e n a t u r a l p e n a l t i e s o f v i o l e n t

w e s t e r n p a s s i o n s , t h e r e a r e n o n e f o r t h e s i m p l e a f f e c t i o n s

o f t h e s e S i n h a l e s e v e g e t a r i a n s , w i t h t h e i r c h a s t e n u d i t y ,



1 7 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

t h e w o m a n l i n e s s e v e n o f t h e m e n , w h o s e l o n g h a i r i s c o i l e d

w i t h c o m b s . I c o u n t e d t w e n t y - n i n e v a r i o u s v e g e t a b l e s i n

one market-stall, and wondered whether these various

c o n t r i b u t i o n s o f A r m a i t i , g e n i u s o f t h e E a r t h , h a d a n y

c o n n e c t i o n w i t h t h e v a r i e t i e s o f e x p r e s s i o n , v o i c e , f a n c i e s

o f t h e S i n h a l e s e , a n d t h e i r f r e e d o m f r o m f r i c t i o n . T h e y

s p o k e a n d m o v e d - w o m e n , c h i l d r e n , m e n - s p o n t a -

n e o u s l y , a s i f n e v e r u s e d t o b e i n g s a t u p o n .

B u d d h a s a i d o f T r u t h t h a t i t w a s a s t h e r a i n w h i c h e a c h

p l a n t , f l o w e r , g r a s s - b l a d e s u c k e d u p i n a c c o r d a n c e w i t h i t s

n a t u r e a n d i t s n e e d . What matters any dogma, theology,

philosophy, uttered thousands of years ago, compared

w i t h t h e l i f e t h a t i s q u i c k e n i n g h e a r t s t o - d a y ? E a c h

g r e a t B o - t r e e ( F i c u s r e l i g i o s a ) beside its temple is a

K a l p a , g i v i n g e a c h s e v e r a l h e a r t i t s s u s t e n a n c e ; a n d I

a m l e a v i n g C e y l o n w i t h a s e r e n e c o n f i d e n c e t h a t i f A l l a h

o r J e s u s a r e e v e r w e l c o m e d t h e r e i t w i l l b e b e c a u s e t h e y

w i l l b e s e e n s i t t i n g b e s i d e B u d d h a u n d e r h i s f i g - t r e e , a s

V i s h n u a n d A g n i h a v e l o n g b e e n s i t t i n g , a n d l i k e t h e s e

c o n v e y i n g t o n a t i v e h e a r t s s w e e t s e c r e t s o f p r i v a t e i n t e r -

p r e t a t i o n . T h e B u d d h i s t K a l p a w i l l , I b e l i e v e , c o n t i n u e

i t s g i f t s a f t e r t h e T r e e s r o o t e d i n d e i t i e s a n d d o g m a s h a v e

w i t h e r e d . F o r i n t h e c o u r s e o f a g e s t h e a c c u m u l a t e d s e n -

t i m e n t s p r o j e c t e d i n t o a n d n u r s e d b y e v e r y r e l i g i o n b r i n g

h u m a n h e a r t s i n f a t a l c o n f l i c t w i t h a n y f a l s i t i e s i n t h e i r

f o u n d a t i o n . George Sand, in her " P a u l i n e , " s a y s : -

She [Pauline] was not really pious . . . . S h e f o u n d

i n C a t h o l i c i s m t h e n u a n c e a d a p t e d t o h e r c h a r a c t e r , f o r

a l l t h e s h a d e s ( n u a n c e s ) p o s s i b l e a r e f o u n d i n t h e o l d

r e l i g i o n s ; s o m a n y c e n t u r i e s h a v e m o d i f i e d t h e m , s o

m a n y m e n h a v e h a d a h a n d i n t h e b u i l d i n g , s o m a n y

i n t e l l i g e n c e s , p a s s i o n s , a n d v i r t u e s h a v e b o r n e t o i t t h e i r

t r e a s u r e s , t h e i r e r r o r s , o r t h e i r l i g h t s , t h a t a t h o u s a n d

d o c t r i n e s a r e u l t i m a t e l y s t o r e d i n o n e , a n d a t h o u s a n d



THE OLD RELIGIONS 1 7 3

d i f f e r e n t n a t u r e s a r e a b l e t o d r a w t h e n c e t h e p a l l i a t i o n

o r t h e s t i m u l a n t s u i t e d t o t h e m . I t i s b y t h a t t h e s e

r e l i g i o n s a r e b u i l t u p , a n d a l s o b y t h a t t h e y c r u m b l e .

( G e o r g e S a n d w r o t e t h e s e w o r d s i n 1 8 4 0 , a n d w h i l e I

q u o t e t h e m ( 1 9 0 6 ) t h e w o r l d i s w i t n e s s i n g t h e f u l f i l m e n t

i n F r a n c e o f h e r l a s t c l a u s e -" c ' e s t a u s s i p a r l a , q u ' e l l e s

s ' e c r o u l e n t . " )



CHAPTER IX

M a d r a s - T e m p l e d a n c e r s - T a l k w i t h s t u d e n t s -J u g g e n a u t h -S t .

T h o m e - A P o r t u g u e s e T h o m a s -L e g e n d o f S a v a t r i -N e w d i s -

c o v e r i e s c o n c e r n i n g T h o m a s -P a i n a n d p i e t y -A J a i n p a r a b l e -G o o d w i l l t o m a n-A B u d d h i s t c a r o l .

I

T is the custom on P. and 0 . b o a t s f o r t h e s t e w a r d t o

a w a k e n o n e a t d a w n w i t h a n o f f e r o f c o f f e e . I began

by storming against this dream-murde r, and ended with

o r d e r i n g m y c o f f e e s t i l l e a r l i e r . E v e r y o r i e n t a l d a w n i s a

p i c t o r i a l r a p t u r e o u t o f t h e V e d a s . E s p e c i a l l y r e s p l e n d e n t

w a s t h e s u n r i s e u n d e r w h i c h w e a p p r o a c h e d I n d i a . A

g r e a t s u n a r o s e o u t o f t h e s e a , s t r e t c h e d h i m s e l f , t h e n

s p r a n g a l o f t a n d h u r l e d d a r t s o n A h i , s e r p e n t o f d a r k n e s s ,

r e v e a l i n g M a d r a s i n t h e d i s t a n c e . The colours of dawn

d e s c e n d t o e a r t h , b r e a k i n g o v e r a n o c e a n t h a t k n o w s n o

t w i l i g h t , t r a n s m u t i n g e v e r y w a v e t o o p a l , t i n t i n g e a c h

t o w e r i n g t e m p l e .

C a r r i e d a s h o r e i n a b o a t o f b a m b o o t i e d w i t h s t r i n g s

o f p a l m b a r k , n o n a i l i n i t , I e n t e r e d o n t h e g r a n d e s t a t e

o f t w o d a y s i n M a d r a s . Not a wavelet of daylight or

moonshine to be lost ! S t r a i g h t I w e n t r a m b l i n g i n t h e

s t r e e t s , a n d t o m y j o y f o u n d t h a t a l u n a r f e s t i v a l w a s j u s t

beginning . In front of an ancient temple a procession

w a s f o r m i n g , a n d a g o d d e s s b r o u g h t o u t t o h e r p a l a n q u i n .

I t w a s S i r a , a s i s t e r g o d d e s s ( o f P r o s p e r i t y ) w i t h L a k s h m i .

S h e s a t i n a r o u n d r e d - a n d - g o l d f r a m e , s u r r o u n d e d w i t h

t o n g u e s o f f l a m e r e p r e s e n t i n g r a y s o f t h e s u n . T h e g r e a t

d i s c r e s t e d o n a c h a r i o t d r i v e n b y s o m e H i n d u P h a e t h o n ,

a n d d r a w n b y f i v e m e t a l h o r s e s p a i n t e d g r e e n a n d r e d .

I w a s t h e o n l y w h i t e p e r s o n p r e s e n t ; and as the man-



TEMPLE DANCERS 1 7 5

a g e r s o f t h e a f f a i r w e r e p o l i t e , m a k i n g a n o p e n i n g t h r o u g h

t h e c r o w d t h a t I m i g h t s e e t h e d a n c e r s , I f o l l o w e d t h e m

a n h o u r . W h e n e v e r a t e m p l e o r s h r i n e w a s p a s s e d t h e

five Nautches danced before their goddess . T h e m a r c h

o f t h e p r o c e s s i o n w a s t o t h e b e a t i n g o f t o m - t o m s a n d m u s i c

o f p i p e s ; but now and then a leading personage made a

tinkling sound on a metal cup he held, whereupo n the

p r o c e s s i o n p a u s e d , t h e p a l a n q u i n w a s l e t d o w n f r o m i t s

b e a r e r s ' s h o u l d e r s , a l l o t h e r i n s t r u m e n t s c e a s e d , a n d t o

t h e t i n k l e o f t h e b e l l a n d c h a n t o f h i m w h o b e a t i t t h e

N a u t c h e s d a n c e d . T h e y w e r e c o v e r e d w i th j e w e l s a n d

r i c h l y d r e s s e d . The embroidered cape fell loosely over

t h e u p p e r p a r t o f t h e b r e a s t s , l e a v i n g t h e w a i s t n a k e d ;

t h e s k i r t d e s c e n d e d j u s t b e l o w t h e k n e e s , t h e l e g s b e i n g

b a r e e x c e p t f o r a n k l e t s . T h e d a n c e r s w e r e o f l i g h t e r c o m -

p l e x i o n t h a n o t h e r s i n t h e p r o c e s s i o n ; t h e y w o r e l e s s c l o t h -

ing than the temple-nautches of Ceylon ; but they were

s o c h i l d l i k e , a n d s o a b s o r b e d i n t h e i r d i v i n e p a n t o m i m e

t h a t t h e r e w a s n o e f f e c t o f i n d e c e n c y . Their feet moved

slowly to and fro ; their jewelled hands were contin-

u a l l y m o v i n g , - t h e f i n g e r s , s o m e t i m e s c r o s s e d , n o w a n d

t h e n s t r e t c h e d o u t , o r l i f t e d a s i f i n b e n e d i c t i o n , w e r e

yet never raised heavenward . They were rehearsing the

d e e d s o f S i r a .

The next morning I went out at seven o'clock to the

same temple . T h e d e i t y b r o u g h t o u t o n t h i s o c c a s i o n w a s

t h e e l e p h a n t - h e a d e d G a n e s a , g o d o f w i s d o m . H e w a s

m o u n t e d o n t h e s a m e s u n - c h a r i o t , d r a w n b y t h e f i v e m o d -

e l l e d h o r s e s , w h o s e a t t i t u d e s w e r e m u c h l i k e t h o s e o f S t .

M a r k ' s a t V e n i c e . Two poles upheld large red hearts

with sun and moon (featured) embroidered on them . O n

t h i s o c c a s i o n t h r e e o f t h e f i v e N a u t c h e s w e r e g i r l s o f a b o u t

t e n y e a r s . The little things watched their leader and



1 7 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

imitated her every movement . T h e d a n c e , i n t e r e s t i n g a s

a novelty and study, seemed perfunctory ; there was no

a p p e a r a n c e o f a n y e m o t i o n , m u c h l e s s p a s s i o n o r e c s t a s y ,

a b o u t d a n c e r s o r d a n c e . When the dancers and the deity

first emerged from the temple beneath an arch of palm

branches, they were preceded by a very fair woman who

b o r e i n h e r b a n d a b r a s s p o t , o n t h e t o p o f w h i c h b u r n e d

a f l a m e. W h e n t h e p r o c e s s i o n h a d s t a r t e d s h e m o v e d b a c k

i n t o t h e t e m p l e a n d w a s s e e n n o m o r e .

W h i l e I w a s s t a n d i n g n e a r t h e p a l a n q u i n a y o u n g

H i n d u a p p r o a c h e d m e . " Y o u s e e m , s i r , " h e s a i d i n p e r -

f e c t E n g l i s h , " t o b e c o s m o p o l i t a n . " I t u r n e d a t t h e q u a i n t

remark and saw before me a refined, eager young face,

a b r i g h t , p e n e t r a t i n g e y e , a f r a n k , p l e a s a n t s m i l e . O n

h i s f o r e h e a d w a s t h e r o u n d s p o t o f S i v a . H e w a s d r e s s e d

i n a s n o w - w h i t e r o b e f r o m n e c k t o f e e t . This youth, as

it afterwards appeared, had been standing, with a few

f e l l o w - s t u d e n t s o f M a d r a s U n i v e r s i t y , o n t h e r o o f o f t h e i r

house ; t h e y h a d o b s e r v e d m y i n t e r e s t i n t h e c e r e m o n i e s

a n d t h e d e i t y t o w h o m t h e y w e r e o f f e r e d , a n d r e s o l v e d t o

i n v i t e m e t o t h e i r r o o m s . W h e n a c c o s t e d , I s a i d t h a t I

w a s i n d e e d m u c h i n t e r e s t e d i n o r i e n t a l r e l i g i o n s . " I s h a l l

b e v e r y g l a d t o b e o f a n y a s s i s t a n c e t o y o u , " s a i d m y n e w

f r i e n d , " a n d s o w i l l m y c o m p a n i o n s w h o m y o u m a y s e e

s t a n d i n g o n t h a t h o u s e ." I looked and saw three white-

r o b e d y o u t h s s o m e f i f t y y a r d s a w a y , g a z i n g s t e a d i l y a t u s .

"We are students of the university ; w e s p e a k a l i t t l e

English, and would be glad of some conversation with

y o u . " I w o u l d h a v e f o l l o w e d a y o u t h w i t h s u c h a c o u n t e -

n a n c e a n y w h e r e . 11 I w i l l c o m e p r e s e n t l y , " I s a i d , a n d h e

l e f t m e . H a v i n g m a d e a f e w m o r e n o t e s o f t h e G a n e s a

s e r v i c e , I r e p a i r e d t o t h e h o u s e o f t h e s t u d e n t s . T h r e e ,

a p p a r e n t l y b r o t h e r s , w e l c o m e d m e a t t h e d o o r . T h e r o o m s



TALK WITH STUDENTS 1 7 7

o f t h e s e w e l l - t o - d o s t u d e n t s w e r e c o m f o r t a b l e a n d v e n t i -

lated, but bare of ornament. They sat on benches, but

b r o u g h t a c h a i r f o r m e . I f o u n d t h e m d e e p l y i n t e r e s t e d i n

E n g l i s h s c i e n c e a n d i n t h e i r o w n s a c r e d l i t e r a t u r e .

S t r a n g e c o m b i n a t i o n h a d t h e i r g e n e r a t i o n p r o v i d e d f o r

t h e s e y o u n g b e a d s . I w a s t o l d o f a B u r m e s e s t u d e n t a t C a l -

c u t t a w h o s e f a t h e r s e c u r e d h i m a g a i n s t C h r i s t i a n h e r e s i e s

by means of a praying machine perpetually turned by a

stream of water, but I was curious to know how these

young Hindus were protected . I f o u n d t h a t t h e y s t u d i e d

a n d r e s p e c t e d e v e r y t h i n g E n g l i s h e x c e p t i t s t h e o l o g y . A l l

the theology of Christendom was as a mushroom beside

t h e s t a t e l y f o r e s t o f t h e i r o w n s a c r e d b o o k s a n d t r a d i -

t i o n s . T h e y w e r e j u s t t h e n e n g a g e d o n t h e R a m a y a n a

a n d B h a g a v a t P u r a n a . T h e l a t t e r , w h i c h g i v e s t h e f u l l e s t

a c c o u n t o f K r i s h n a , l e d t o a c o n v e r s a t i o n o n t h e r e s e m -

b l a n c e s b e t w e e n t h a t l e g e n d o f t h e i n c a r n a t i o n o f V i s h n u

and that of Christ in the New Testament . One of these

youths called my attention to a point which has not, I

believe, been noted by western scholars . T h e n e x t i n -

carnation expected by the Hindus is Kalki . T h i s n a m e

h a s u s u a l l y b e e n t r a n s l a t e d G ° w h i t e h o r s e " a n d u n d e r s t o o d

t o m e a n t h a t a t t h e e n d o f t h e K a l k i , o r I r o n A g e , V i s h n u

w i l l c o m e o n a p u r e w h i t e h o r s e t o j u d g e t h e w o r l d . B u t

these students say Kalki means " t h e s e v e r e f a c e , " t h e

i d e a c o n v e y e d b e i n g v e r y n e a r l y t h a t a s c r i b e d b y C h r i s -

t i a n s t o t h e M e s s i a h a t h i s s e c o n d c o m i n g . I t i s b e l i e v e d

that Kalki will appear beside the river Rhambrapurny,

s o u t h o f T i n n i v e l l y . These students spoke of Buddha as

a v e r y g r e a t R i s h i a n d s a g e w h o f o u n d e d a n e w s c h o o l o f

p h i l o s o p h y - t h e S a n k h y a . Theosophy having come under

d i s c u s s i o n , t h e y w e r e s u r p r i s e d t o h e a r m e s p e a k o f i t a s

c l a i m i n g t o b e " B u d d h i s t . " T h e y h a d s e e n t h e 1 1 Countess "



1 78 MY PILGRIMAGE

B l a v a t s k y a n d " C o l o n e l " O l c o t t , h a d a t t e n d e d T h e o s o p h i s t

m e e t i n g s a n d l e c t u r e s , a n d h a d a l w a y s s u p p o s e d i t t o b e

a revival of Hinduism . T h e y h a d n e v e r h e a r d o f t h e

v e i l e d M a h a t m a , K h o t u m e . The Theosophists must have

b e e n a d a p t i n g t h e i r c u l t t o d i f f e r e n t r e g i o n s . They be-

l i e v e d " C o l o n e l " O l c o t t b a d b e e n s u c c e s s f u l i n h e a l i n g

s o m e d i s e a s e s . They had not personally witnessed such

c u r e s , b u t h e a r d t h a t a t C o m b a c o n u m , w h e r e t h e i r p a r e n t s

r e s i d e d , h e h a d c u r e d a b o y o f p a r a l y s i s o f t h e l e g a n d a r m .

T h e s t u d e n t s a p p e a r e d t o m e u n f a m i l i a r w i t h t h e i d e a s

o f s c i e n t i f i c m e n c o n c e r n i n g s u c h s u b j e c t s , o r w i t h t h e

p a t h o l o g y o f i m a g i n a t i o n . T h e y s e e m e d t o t h i n k a l l s u c h

things immediately connected with preternatural or oc-

c u l t c a u s e s . O t h e r w i s e t h e y w e r e k e e p i n g w e l l a b r e a s t o f

E u r o p e a n i d e a s . T h e m o s t s i g n i f i c a n t t h i n g a b o u t t h e i r

t a l k w a s t h e e v i d e n c e g i v e n t h a t t h e y w e r e a l i v e t o t h e

r e s e m b l a n c e s b e t w e e n C h r i s t i a n a n d o r i e n t a l t r a d i t i o n s :

B e s i d e s t h e e x a m p l e a l r e a d y r e f e r r e d t o , t h e y r e m e m b e r e d

the Hindu saints and heroes born of miraculous concep-

t i o n ; a n d a m o n g t h e l e g e n d s c o m m o n t o I n d i a a n d E u -

rope they mentioned the name of one (Awasthama) doomed

to immortality on earth like the Wandering Jew, while

another (Vabisbana), a blessed undying one, might be

compared with sleeping St . John at Ephesus . They say

t h a t t h e h e a v e n f o r w h i c h t h e y h o p e i s n o t v e r y d i f f e r e n t

from that of the Christian ( 1 ° W e s h a l l b e f a i r t h e r e , "

t h e y s a i d ) ; b u t t h e y l o o k e d w i t h h o r r o r u p o n t h e C h r i s -

t i a n d o c t r i n e o f h e l l . T h e y c l a i m e d m o r a l a n d p h i l o -

s o p h i c a l s u p e r i o r i t y f o r t h e i r b e l i e f t h a t s i n f u l s o u l s a r e

g i v e n t h e f o r m s o f a n i m a l s-i g h e r o r l o w e r , a c c o r d i n g

t o t h e i r m e r i t s a n d d i s c i p l i n a r y n e e d s -t h e o b j e c t b e i n g

n o t a t a l l p u n i s h m e n t , b u t t h e d e l i v e r a n c e o f a s o u l f r o m

e v i l a n d i t s a s c e n t t o u n i t y w i t h G o d . All lower forms



JUGGENAUTH 1 7 9

a r e t h e r e f o r e p u r g a t o r i a l , a n d e v e r y s o u l t h a t s i n s i s

a c c o r d e d t h i s s e v e n t y t i m e s s e v e n i f h e s h a l l s o o f t e n d i e

i n h i s s i n . " T h e r e i s n o e t e r n a l p u n i s h m e n t ." To my en-

q u i r y w h e t h e r a s o u l s a n k l o w e r b y i m m o r a l i t y o r b y a t h e -

i s m , t h e y a n s w e r e d , G ° By atheism . " I s a i d t h a t E u r o p e a n

o p i n i o n w a s d i f f e r e n t ; t h a t e v e r y t h i n k e r w h o r e n o u n c e d

a p o p u l a r i d o l w a s a n a t h e i s t t o t h e w o r s h i p p e r o f t h a t

i d o l , a n d t h a t i f p e o p l e w e r e t o b e f r i g h t e n e d b y s u c h e p i -

t h e t s t h e r e c o u l d n e v e r b e a n y a d v a n c e f r o m a n c i e n t e r r o r

to new truth . " W hy t he n, " sa id o ne , " w a s t h e e d i t o r

of the IF r e e t h i n k e r ' i m p r i s o n e d i n L o n d o n ? " I ex-

p l a i n e d t h a t i t w a s n o t b e c a u s e o f a t h e i s m ; t h a t t h e j u d g e

i n t h a t c a s e d e c l a r e d t h a t e v e r y m a n w a s e n t i t l e d t o e x -

p r e s s d i s b e l i e f i n d e i t y ; b u t t h a t t h e e x h i b i t i o n o f c e r t a i n

p i c t o r i a l c a r i c a t u r e s o f s a c r e d p e r s o n s h a d b e e n c o n s i d -

ered contrary to public decency . The caricatures were

not obscene, and many of us considered the conviction

i l l e g a l , a l t h o u g h d i s l i k i n g s u c h c a r i c a t u r e s . This expla-

nation appeared to interest them very much . A f t e r t h i s

c o n v e r s a t i o n t h e s t u d e n t w h o h a d a c c o s t e d m e o n t h e

street accompanied me to the museum, where I was much

a s s i s t e d b y h i s i n t e l l i g e n c e . He had an ardent desire to

v i s i t E n g l a n d , a n d t o l d m e t h a t n o H i n d u n o w l o s t c a s t e

by such a journey, as in former times . O n h i s r e t u r n

s u c h H i n d u t r a v e l l e r n e e d o n l y c a l l a t t h e s h r i n e o f J u g -

genauth and bring home a certificate of having made a

" p i l g r i m a g e t o J u g g e n a u t h , " t o h a v e " n o q u e s t i o n s

asked" as to how much farther his pilgrimage may have

extended .

I f o u n d l e a r n e d m e n i n I n d i a , b o t h n a t i v e a n d E n g l i s h ,

puzzled by the evil reputation of Juggenauth and his

f a m o u s C a r , t h r o u g h o u t C h r i s t e n d o m . H e i s a f o r m o f

Vishnu, the Lord of Life, to whom all destruction is




a b h o r r e n t . T h e d e a t h o f t h e s m a l l e s t c r e a t u r e b e n e a t h t h e

w h e e l s o f t h a t C a r , m u c h m o r e o f a h u m a n b e i n g , w o u l d

e n t a i l l o n g a n d c o s t l y c e r e m o n i e s o f p u r i f i c a t i o n . I t i s

s u r m i s e d t h a t t h e o b s t i n a t e a n d p r o v e r b i a l f i c t i o n a b o u t

t h e C a r o f J u g g e n a u t h m u s t h a v e o r i g i n a t e d i n s o m e

a c c i d e n t w i t n e s s e d b y a m i s s i o n a r y w h o s u p p o s e d i t a r e g -

u l a r p a r t o f t h e c e r e m o n i e s . T h e r e h a v e b e e n s u i c i d e s i n

I n d i a , a s i n C h r i s t i a n c o u n t ri e s , f r o m r e l i g i o u s m a n i a ,

b u t t h e p l a c e w h e r e t h e y a r e l e a s t l i k e l y t o o c c u r i s i n

t h e n e i g h b o u r h o o d o f J u g g e n a u t h .

I n 1 8 7 6 I g a v e a d i s c o u r s e i n L o n d o n i n w h i c h t h i s

s u b j e c t w a s a l l u d e d t o , a n e w p a p e r r e p o r t o f w h i c h l e d

P r o f e s s o r A . B a i n o f A b e r d e e n t o a d d r e s s a l e t t e r t o

t h e " A c a d e m y " c i t i n g h i g h a u t h o r i t i e s i n E n g l a n d f o r

t h e t r a d i t i o n a l b e l i e f a b o u t J u g g e n a u t h. I w a s a b l e t o

f o r t i f y m y s t a t e m e n t , a n d P r o f e s s o r B a i n w r o t e m e a

p r i v a t e l e t t e r s a y i n g t h a t h e w a s c o n v i n c e d t h a t i t w a s

c o r r e c t . E v e n P r o f e s s o r M a x M u l l e r t o l d m e t h a t u n t i l

h e r e a d t h e l e t t e r s i n t h e " A c a d e m y " h e s u p p o s e d t h a t

s u i c i d e s h a d f o r m e r l y o c c u r r e d u n d e r t h e C a r .

T h e l a t e S i r W i l l i a m H u n t e r , g a z e t t e e r - g e n e r a l o f

I n d i a , m a d e a s p e c i a l i n v e s t i g a t i o n i n t o t h e m a t t e r , a n d

i n h i s " O r i s s a " ( 1 8 7 2 ) s a i d : " S o f a r f r o m e n c o u r a g i n g

s e l f - i m m o l a t i o n , t h e g e n t l e d o c t r i n e s o f J u g g e n a u t h t e n d e d

t o c h e c k t h e o n c e u n i v e r s a l c u s t o m o f w i d o w - b u r n i n g .

E v e n b e f o r e t h e g o v e r n m e n t p u t a s t o p t o i t , o u r o f f i c i a l s

o b s e r v e d i t s c o m p a r a t i v e i n f r e q u e n c y a t P u r i . "

W h e n t h e P r i n c e o f W a l e s ( E d w a r d V I I ) v i s i t e d S t .

P a u l ' s a f t e r h i s r e c o v e r y , s e v e r a l p e r s o n s w e r e c r u s h e d t o

d e a t h . O n e c a n i m a g i n e t h i s f a c t r e a c h i n g s o m e d i s t a n t

i s l a n d i n s u c h a s h a p e a s t o l e a v e t h e r e a t r a d i t i o n t h a t

i t i s u s u a l t o s a c r i f i c e h u m a n v i c t i m s i n E n g l a n d o n t h e

r e c o v e r y o f a p r i n c e , a s a p a r t o f a t h a n k s g i v i n g s e r v i c e .



PROCESSION AT TRIPELCANE 1 8 1

E s p e c i a l l y m i g h t t h i s b e t h e c a s e i f t h e s e n t e n c e w e r e r e -

p o r t e d a n d i n t e r p r e t e d b y p r i e s t s a n x i o u s t o p l a c e C h r i s -

t i a n i t y i n i t s w o r s t l i g h t . I f w e w e r e t o s m i l e a t s u c h a

n o t i o n w e s h o u l d o n l y b e d o i n g w h a t e v e r y e d u c a t e d

Hindu probably does, so often as he finds Engl ishmen

b e l i e v i n g t h a t h u m a n s a c r i f i c e s w e r e p a r t o f t h e n o r m a l

worship of Juggenauth, Lord of Life .

I t i s a n o t a b l e e x a m p l e o f t h e i r o n y o f m y t h o l o g y t h a t

t h i s s a m e c a l u m n i a t e d J u g g e n a u t h s h o u l d f o r m a n y y e a r s

have been the deity under whose protection Buddha has

b e e n s t e a d i l y r e t u r n i n g i n t o I n d i a . W h e r e v e r w e s e e a n

i m a g e o f J u g g e n a u t h - w h o s e n o b l e c o u n t e n a n c e i s p i c -

tured in Caristian imagination as ferocious-h e r e i s

n e a r l y a l w a y s b e s i d e h i m a n i m a g e o f B u d d h a . W h e n

we remember that this deity is not only the source of

that catholicity which is renewing Buddhism in India,

b u t a l s o o f t h e l i b e r t y t h a t e n a b l e s I n d i a n s o f r a n k t o

t r a v e l a b r o a d w i t h o u t l o s i n g c a s t e , t h e r e i s b r o u g h t b e f o r e

u s o n e m o r e l e s s o n i n t h e u n t r u s t w o r t h i n e s s o f t h e m i s -

s i o n a r y r e p o r t s o n w h i c h p o p u l a r n o t i o n s o f d i s t a n t c o u n -

t r i e s a r e f o u n d e d .

At Tripelcane stands the only grand temple near Ma-

d r a s . T h e r e I h a d t h e l u c k t o a r r i v e j u s t a s t h e g o d d e s s

of good luck -L a k s h m i-a s p r o m e n a d i n g . The god-

dess was enthroned in her palanquin amid gems under a

m a n y - c o l o u r e d s o l a r a r c h , a n d b o r n e o n t h e s h o u l d e r s o f

m o v i n g b r o n z e s t a t u e s , r e c o g n i z a b l e , a s t h e y c a m e c l o s e r ,

as men . T h e t a b l e a u w a s v e r y p r e t t y w h e n t h e y c a m e

f r o m t h e i r c i r c u i t s i n f r o n t o f t h e t e m p l e a g a i n . T h e s e

temples, which of course none but Hindus are permitted

t o e n t e r , h a v e l o f t y t r u n c a t e d p y r a m i d a l p o r t a l s , w h i c h ,

w i t h t h e c o l u m n e d p o r t i c o , a r e t h e o n l y t h i n g s n o t a b l e .

T h i s p o r t a l - t o w e r a t T r i p e l c a n e i s c a r v e d a l l o v e r w i t h



1 82 MY PILGRIMAGE

f i g u r e s i n d e e p r e l i e f , n o t a n i n c h b e i n g w i t h o u t i t s f i n -

i s h e d s c u l p t u r e . All the popular deities may be picked

o u t . B e n e a t h t h e p i l l a r e d p o r t i c o s e v e r a l s c o r e o f w o m e n

a n d c h i l d r e n a r e s h e l t e r e d f r o m t h e g l o w i n g s u n , n o w a n d

t h e n p u r c h a s i n g s o m e t h i n g f r o m t h e s t a l l s , l o a d e d w i t h

o r a n g e s , b a n a n a s , a n d o t h e r f r u i t s . S o s o o n a s I b e g a n

t o e x a m i n e c l o s e l y t h e f i g u r e s s c u l p t u r e d o n t h e p e d i m e n t s

I w a s s u r r o u n d e d b y a s w a r m o f s m a l l n a k e d f o r m s , w h i c h

d i s p l a y e d q u i t e a s m u c h c u r i o s i t y a s w o u l d b e e x c i t e d b y

a Hindu inspecting Westminster Abbey . I n f r o n t o f t h e

l a r g e t e m p l e t h e r e i s a s o r t o f p a l m - t h a t c h e d c h a p e l - o f - e a s e ,

in which Laksbmi was placed with due ceremony on her

r e t u r n . B e s i d e i t i s t h e c a r -f o r e v e r y t e m p l e k e e p s a

s o r t o f L o r d M a y o r ' s c o a c h - a n d i n f r o n t t h e s q u a r e

t a n k , c o v e r i n g o v e r a n a c r e , i n t h e c e n t r e o f w h i c h i s a

s m a l l s c u l p t u r e d e d i f i c e , a p p a r e n t l y o r n a m e n t a l . O n e o f

t h e p r o f a n e m u s t n o t a p p r o a c h t h i s t a n k n e a r e n o u g h t o

p o l l u t e i t b y a t o u c h , a n d t h e r e b y n o d o u b t r e n d e r a h u n -

d r e d e l a b o r a t e c e r e m o n i e s n e c e s s a r y t o p u r i f y i t ! W h e n

t h e g o d d e s s h a d b e e n c a r r i e d w i t h i n , t h e c h a n t i n g e n d e d ,

t h e v e i l d r a w n , I s t r o l l e d a w a y a b o u t f i f t y y a r d s , a n d p r e -

s e n t l y h e a r d l o u d c a l l s T u r n i n g I s a w t h e h u g e e l e p h a n t

w h i c h h a d a t t e n d e d t h e p r o c e s s i o n m a k i n g s t r a i g h t f o r m e ,

b r a n d i s h i n g h i s h u g e t r u n k , w h i l e t h e H i n d u o n h i s b a c k

w a s u t t e r i n g v a r i o u s c r i e s , p o i n t i n g t o m e a n d t h e n t o t h e

s w i f t l y a d v a n c i n g a n i m a l . I w a s j u s t c o n s i d e r i n g w h e t h e r

a s u d d e n b a t h i n t h e h o l y t a n k m i g h t n o t b e t h e b e t t e r

p a r t o f v a l o u r , w h e n t h e d r i v e r o f m y g h a r r i e r a n u p a n d

s a i d , " The elephant wants some money ." Ah ! I h a v e n o t

o f t e n f o u n d r e l i e f f r o m a n a p p l i c a t i o n f o r " b a k s h e e s h . "

I w a i t e d u n t i l t h i s e l e p h a n t i n e d e v o t e e o f t h e g o d d e s s o f

W e a l t h a p p r o a c h e d , a n d p l a c e d a b i t o f s i l v e r i n h i s p r o -

b o s c i s . H e r a i s e d i t o v e r h i s h e a d t o t h e h a n d o f h i s d r i v e r ,



ST . THOME 1 83

t h e n m o v e d o f f t o h i s n e a t e n c l o s u r e , w h e r e , k n e e l i n g f o r

h i s d r i v e r t o a l i g h t , h e p r e s e n t l y s t r e t c h e d h i m s e l f w i t h

a s t e n t o r i a n y a w n t o e n j o y h i s d o l e s f a r n i e n t e t i l l n e x t

d a y .

From Madras I made a pilgrimage to St . T h o m e , a b o u t

t w e n t y m i l e s a w a y . M y c o n s t i t u t i o n a l l i k i n g f o r t h e D o u b t -

i n g D i s c i p l e w a s n o t s h a r e d b y a n y o f t h e h u n d r e d E n g -

lish passengers on our ship Teheran . I could find no

one to ac company me . A l l a l o n e s a v e f o r m y d r i v e r w i t h

Siva's ashen sign on his forehead, and a gold en-brown

b o y r e c l i n i n g o n t h e f o o t b o a r d b e h i n d , I p a s s e d t h r o u g h

t h e v i l l a g e s a n d l a n e s o f a l a n d w h o s e s t r a n g e g r o w t h s ,

h o u s e s , p e o p l e , b i r d s , m a d e e v e r y m i l e a d e l i g h t . B u t t h e

country was sparsely inhabited, and when I came to St .

T h o m e i t w a s a l m o s t u n c a n n y i n i t s l o n e l i n e s s . C l i m b i n g

a l o n g s t o n e s t a i r w a y t o t h e t o p , I f o u n d a q u e e r r a m b l i n g

e d i f i c e t h a t s e e m e d n e i t h e r c h u r c h n o r c o n v e n t . Enter-

ing, I found a Portuguese priest reading a large book

t h a t l a y o n a p l a i n w o o d e n t a b l e , t h i s a n d t h r e e c h a i r s

b e i n g t h e o n l y f u r n i t u r e . T h e f l o o r w a s s t o n e , t h e w a l l s

p l a i n p l a s t e r . T h e p r i e s t r e c e i v e d m e c o r d i a l l y . H e w a s

a m a n o f p e r h a p s f o r t y y e a r s , t a l l a n d s l e n d e r; h i s f a c e

w a s p i t t e d , b u t t h e f i n e f e a t u r e s , l a r g e a n d e x p r e s s i v e e y e ,

s e n s i t i v e m o u t h w i t h i t s s w e e t a n d s i m p l e v o i c e , d r e w m y

heart out to him. To my apology for obtruding on him

h e a n s w e r e d , w i t h a g e n t l e s m i l e , t h a t i t w a s v e r y r a r e

for him to meet any one from Europe, and he was glad

t o s e e m e . I t o l d h i m t h a t I w a s n o t a C a t h o l i c , b u t h a d

a n e s p e c i a l i n t e r e s t i n S t . Thomas, on whom I had writ-

ten a pamphlet . I w i s h e d t o s t u d y t h e s t o r y o f h i s a p o s -

tolate and martyrdom in ancient India . T h e p r i e s t t o l d

m e t h a t b e d w e l t a l o n e s a v e f o r t h e n e i g h b o u r i n g H i n d u s ;

there had been no congregation there for many years ;



1 8 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

t h e r e w a s n o p u b l i c f u n c t i o n r e q u i r e d o f h i m e x c e p t w h e n

a f e w p i l g r i m s c a m e o n t h e s a i n t ' s d a y . ( H e s a i d t h i s i n

t o l e r a b l e E n g l i s h , b u t p r e f e r r e d t o s p e a k i n F r e n c h . ) Hec o u l d n o t t e l l m e t h e a g e o f t h e b u i l d i n g , s o m e p a r t s o f

w h i c h w e r e v e r y o l d . W h e n , a f t e r w a l k i n g a b o u t i t , I

s u g g e s t e d t h a t s o m e p a r t s a p p e a r e d t o b e t o o a n c i e n t t o

h a v e b e e n o r i g i n a l l y C h r i s t i a n , h e i n c l i n e d t o t h e s a m e

o p i n i o n , b u t h a d s o u g h t i n v a i n f o r t h e f a c t s , - f o r b e

had been there a good many years . T h e p r i e s t l e d m e

t o a s m a l l c a v e a t t h e b a c k o f t h e e d i f i c e , i n w h i c h i s

a s p r i n g b e l i e v e d t o h a v e b e e n m i r a c u l o u s l y e v o k e d b y

S t . T h o m a s . S o m e s i x t y f e e t o f f i s a l a r g e f l a t r o c k s u r -

m o u n t e d b y a s m a l l m o n u m e n t , w h e r e t h e s a i n t p a s s e d

m o s t o f h i s t i m e " a m i d w h a t w a s t h e n a s o l i t u d e . " In

t h e f l o o r o f t h e l i t t l e c h a p e l a r e m e m o r i a l t a b l e t s w i t h

m a i n l y P o r t u g u e s e i n s c r i p t i o n s , -o n e , h o w e v e r , b e i n g

E n g l i s h , -e a r l y a l l o f t h e e i g h t e e n t h c e n t u r y . T h e

c h a p e l i s d e d i c a t e d t o 11 N o t r e D a m e d e S a n t e , " w h o

s t a n d s f a r u p a g a i n s t t h e w a l l o n a n a l t a r p o o r l y o f f f o r

d e c o r a t i o n s . S t . T h o m a s ' s D a y - t h e s o l s t i c e , D e c e m b e r

21, when day and night are Didymuses (twins), and

T i m e s t a n d s i n d o u b t b e t w e e n t h e p o w e r s o f L i g h t a n d

Darkness-ha d brought but few pilgrim s the month be-

f o r e . B y a c u r v i n g s t a i r w a y b e s i d e t h e a l t a r w e d e s c e n d e d

- s t o o p i n g l o w a n d f o l l o w i n g a c a n d l e - i n t o a c a v e w h e r e

t h e s a i n t i s s a i d t o h a v e h i d d e n f r o m p a g a n p u r s u e r s . O n e

s m a l l a p e r t u r e i s c u t t h r o u g h t h e r o c k ( f i v e f e e t t h i c k ) ,

a n d w e c o u l d s t a n d e r e c t o n l y i n o n e c o r n e r . O n a r o c k -

h e w n s h e l f i s a l i t t l e c r u c i f i x , a n d b e h i n d i t a t i n y f r a m e d

p i c t u r e o f C h r i s t , b u t t h e r e w e r e n o o r n a m e n t s . Emerging

i n t o t h e l i g h t , w e p a s s e d b y a l o n g s t o n e s t a i r w a y t o t h e

f o o t o f t h e h i l l . T h e r e t h e p r i e s t p o i n t e d o u t a n i n s c r i p -

t i o n i n c h a r a c t e r s " c o n c e r n i n g w h i c h t h e r e a r e d o u b t s . "



ST . THOMAS'S FOOTPRINT 1 8 5

T w o d a g o b a - l i k e s t r u c t u r e s , e a c h s i x f e e t s q u a r e a n d a b o u t

n i n e f e e t t o t h e a p e x , c o v e r m y s t e r i o u s l y i n d e n t e d r o c k s ,

s u p p o s e d b y s o m e t o b e m a r k e d b y t h e s a i n t ' s b o n e s . " I t

i s d o u b t f u l w h a t t h e y w e r e b u i l t f o r , " s a i d t h e p r i e s t . Near

b y i s a n o t h e r r o c k r e t a i n i n g t h e i m p r e s s i o n o f t h e s a i n t ' s

f o o t a f t e r h e w a s w o u n d e d . T h i s " f o o t p r i n t , " l a r g e r t h a n

t h a t o f a n o r d i n a r y m a n , i s b u t v e r y v a g u e l y t r a c e a b l e i n

a d i s c o l o r a t i o n o f f a i n t y e l l o w a n d r e d o n t h e l i g h t s a n d -

s t o n e . I t i s s l i g h t l y i n d e n t e d , a s i f w o r n b y m a n y k i s s e s .

T h e l e g e n d o f S t . T h o m a s ' s d e a t h i s p e c u l i a r . I t i s s a i d

t h a t a H i n d u a r r o w a i m e d a t a p e a c o c k a c c i d e n t a l l y a n d

f a t a l l y s t r u c k t h e h e e l o f S t . Thomas . T h i s l o o k s a s i f t h e

Hindus had long ago repudiated some tra dition of the

s a i n t ' s " martyrdom " b e i n g o n t h e i r h a n d s , a n d h a d

s h a p e d i t a f t e r t h e l e g e n d o f t h e i r o w n S a v i o u r , K r i s h n a ,

who also died of a wound in the heel from the arrow of

a h u n t s m a n n o t a i m e d a t h i m . N e a r t h e s t o n e w i t h t h e

reddish stains there was found at a considerable depth

a tablet on which was a rudely designed dove, and an

i n s c r i p t i o n i n P a l i a n d P e r s i a n : -

" I n p u n i s h m e n t o f t h e c r o s s w a s t h e s u f f e r i n g o f t h i s

o n e : h e w h o i s t h e t r u e C h r i s t , a n d G o d a b o v e , a n d

Guide ever pure . " '

T h e P o r t u g u e s e p r i e s t , w h e n I a s k e d h i s o p i n i o n o f t h e

a l l e g e d f o o t p r i n t , s h o o k h i s h e a d s i l e n t l y , b u t t h o u g h t t h e

l o n g c o n t i n u a n c e o f t h e l e g e n d i n t e r e s t i n g . H e b e l i e v e d

t h a t t h e r e l i c s , w h i c h h e h a d s e e n , w e r e i n t h e c h u r c h a t

M o u n t S t . T h o m e , a n d I r e s o l v e d t o g o t h e r e .

When we turned away from this spot and walked to a

H i n d u v i l l a g e , t h e c h i l d r e n r a n t o g r e e t t h e p r i e s t , b o w i n g

t h e i r f o r e h e a d s t o t h e g r o u n d . A s h e p a s s e d a l o n g t h e l i t t l e

1 T h e l a t e M r . B u r n e l l g a v e a n a c c o u n t w i t h p l a t e s o f t h e s e r e l i c s i n

t h e I n d i a n A n t i q u a r y , v o l . i i i , p . 3 0 8 .



1 86 MY PILGRIMAGE

s t r e e t t h e w o m e n c a m e t o t h e i r d o o r s , t h e m e n p a u s e d , a n d

h e s p o k e p l e a s a n t l y t o t h e m a l l , p a t t i n g t h e c h i l d r e n o n

the head . I a s k e d i f t h e y w e r e C h r i s t i a n s a n d h e s a i d ,

" N o n e o f t h e m ." So deep had this man gone into their

" h e a t h e n " h e a r t s !

A n d n o w I b e g a n t o t h i n k o n w h a t h e h a d p o i n t e d o u t ,

and stopped a moment or two to enter some items in my

n o t e - b o o k . Then a theory began to dawn on me . W a s i t

n o t t h e e c c l e s i a s t i c a l m e t i e r o f t h e p r i e s t i n c h a r g e o f S t .

T h o m e t o b e l i e v e a l l o f t h e C a t h o l i c t r a d i t i o n s c o n c e r n i n g

t h e m i r a c u l o u s w e l l , t h e f o o t p r i n t , a n d t h e r e s t ? Y e t t h i s

man had spoken hesitatingly and dubiously about every

one of them . I l o o k e d i n t o h i s l a r g e s m i l i n g e y e a n d f e l t

c e r t a i n t h a t I w a s i n t h e p r e s e n c e o f a D o u b t i n g D i s c i p l e .

T h i s l e a r n e d a n d i n t e l l e c t u a l m a n , w i t h h i s f i n e p e r s o n a l -

ity, worshipped by those humble Hindus,-h y w a s h e

s e n t o u t a t m i d d l e a g e t o l i v e a l o n e w i t h o u t c o n g r e g a t i o n

or function in this remote spot? Was it because he was

f o u n d t o b e a s c e p t i c , a d o u b t i n g T h o m a s ?

I f i n d a m o n g m y n o t e s w r i t t e n t h a t d a y , " H o w I w o u l d

l i k e t o h a v e a d a y o f i n t i m a t e t a l k w i t h t h a t m a n ! "

H e s a w t h a t I l o v e d h i m , a n d u r g e d m e t o s t a y l o n g e r; h e

c o u l d g i v e m e f o o d a n d l o d g i n g ; b u t i t c o u l d n o t b e ; t h e

Teheran was to sail early next morning . So we parted .

I d r o v e o n t w o m i l e s t o M o u n t S t . T h o m e . A l o n g s u c -

c e s s i o n o f s t o n e s t a i r w a y s , u p w h i c h o n t h e s a i n t ' s d a y

p i l g r i m s c l i m b o n t h e i r k n e e s , b r o u g h t m e t o t h e s o l i t a r y

white church . I t w a s a l l s i l e n t , e v e r y d o o r c l o s e d , t h e

windows made fast with shutters, so that I coul d not

g e t a g l i m p s e o f t h e i n t e r i o r . T w o t r i c o l o r s w e r e f l y i n g

f r o m a s i g n a l s t a t i o n a t o n e c o r n e r o f t h e g r o u n d s , a n d

a f t e r a g o o d d e a l o f c a l l i n g a n E n g l i s h m a n a p p e a r e d , w i t h

e v i d e n t r e l u c t a n c e , w h o i n f o r m e d m e t h a t t h e p r i e s t w a s



MOUNT ST THOME 1 8 7

a b s e n t . H e ( t h e p r i e s t ) w a s a n a t i v e , a n d w a s i n t h e h a b i t

o f g o i n g n o w a n d t h e n t o s t a y a m o n g t h e v i l l a g e s o f t h e

d i s t r i c t f o r a f o r t n i g h t a t a t i m e . He had now been absent

f o r f i v e d a y s , a n d n o n e c o u l d t e l l h i s w h e r e a b o u t s . " I s

t h e r e a n y t h i n g i n t e r e s t i n g i n t h e c h u r c h t o s e e ? " I asked .

" I d o n ' t k n o w , " r e p l i e d t h e s o l e o c c u p a n t o f t h e h i l l , " I

n e v e r w a s i n s i d e i t . I d o n ' t b e l o n g t o t h a t , b u t t o t h e

C h u r c h o f E n g l a n d . " I f o u n d c o n s o l a t i o n f o r m y c l i m b i n

the grand view which the height commands - a v a s t p l a i n

of banyans and palms, with a few villas and gleaming

streams .

A s I p a s s e d t h r o u g h t h e v i l l a g e a t t h e f o o t o f t h e m o u n t

I observed " H i n d u M ou n t " o n a s i gn , a n d o n e n qu i r y

l e a r n e d t h a t t h e H i n d u s h a v e a n o t h e r n a m e f o r t h e p l a c e ,

w h i c h I c a n n o t r e m e m b e r . N o d o u b t i t w a s , l i k e e v e r y

o t h e r " h i g h p l a c e " i n o r i e n t a l p l a i n s , a s a c r e d h i l l b e f o r e

t h e C h r i s t i a n e r a , a n d p r o b a b l y p a s s e d t o t h e C a t h o l i c s a i n t

b y n a t u r a l s e l e c t i o n .

I d r o v e t w o m i l e s a l o n g a g r a n d a v e n u e o f b a n y a n s

e x t e n d i n g f r o m t h e b a s e o f t h e m o u n t . O f m a n y t h e

b r a n c h e s , h e r e a f t e r t o t a k e r o o t , h u n g d o w n n e a r l y t o t h e

e a r t h i n l a r g e n u m b e r s , l i k e v i n e s . T h e l o w e r h o r i z o n t a l

b r a n c h e s o f o t h e r s w e r e g r a c e f u l l y f e s t o o n e d . But a num-

b e r w e r e a l r e a d y b u t t r e s s e d b y b r a n c h e s t u r n e d t o t r u n k s

s e v e n o r e i g h t i n c h e s t h i c k . I c o u n t e d a s m a n y a s t h i r t e e n

t r u n k s t o o n e t r e e . T h e r o a d o n e a c h s i d e w a s h e d g e d

w i t h c a c t u s , a n d b e y o n d w e r e b e a u t i f u l p a l m s , r i s i n g o u t

o f l a k e l e t s f o r m e d b y i n u n d a t i o n s . B u t a f t e r a l l , t h e r e

w a s n o o t h e r s c e n e s o p i c t u r e s q u e a s t h e t h a t c h e d v i l l a g e s

a n d t h e v i l l a g e r s i n t h e i r c o m b i n a t i o n s o f c o l o u r s a n d d a r k

s k i n s . T h e p e o p l e i n t h i s n e i g h b o u r h o o d , p a r t i c u l a r l y t a l l

a n d w e l l s h a p e d , f o r m e d p r e t t y g r o u p s i n t h e f i e l d s , w h e r e

t h e y w e r e s o s t i l l a s t o b e t a b l e a u x .



1 88 MY PILGRIMAGE

A graceful young Hindu woman was seated beneath the

s h a d e o f t h e g r e a t b a n y a n , h e r c h i l d r e n g r o u p e d p l e a s a n t l y

a r o u n d h e r , a n d a l l s o a b s o r b e d w i t h w h a t s h e w a s s a y i n g

t o t h e m th a t t h e y h a r d l y o b s er v e d m y ap p r o a c h . T h e

m u s i c a l v o i c e c o n t i n u e d o n o n e s i d e w h i l e I w a s c o u n t i n g

t h e d o w n w a r d b r a n c h e s o n t h e o t h e r . W h a t w a s s h e t e l l i n g

t h e m ? P e r h a p s t h e t a l e o f t h e M a d r a s P r i n c e s s S a v a t r i ,

w h o r e f u s e d a l l p o w e r f u l s u i t o r s f o r l o v e o f h o m e l e s s S a t -

y a v a n ; a n d w h o w h e n h e r h u s b a n d w a s k i l l e d b y t h e f a l l

o f a t r e e i n t h e f o r e s t , a n d Y a n i a c a m e f o r h i s o w n , s o

moved that King of Death by her beauty and her gentle

p l e a d i n g t h a t h e r e s t o r e d S a t y a v a n t o h e r . T h i s t a l e i s

t h e c e n t r a l t r u n k o f a n i n v i s i b l e b a n y a n s p r e a d i n m a n y

v e r s i o n s , - L o v e s u b d u i n g Dea t h ; b u t i t a p p e a r s t o m e

s w e e t e r a n d t r u e r t h a n t h e l e g e n d s o f r e s u r r e c t i o n s w h e r e

t h e m u s c u l a r p o w e r o f a H e r a k l e s o r t h e m a g i c m i g h t o f

a C h r i s t h a v e p r e v a i l e d o v e r t h e k i n g o f t e r r o r s . T h e r e i s

n o n e e d , h o w e v e r , t h a t w e s h o u l d s e e k a n y o t h e r o r i g i n

o f t h e b a n y a n - g r o w t h o f s u c h l e g e n d s o f L o v e t h a n i n t h e

m o t h e r ' s h e a r t t h e r e . T h a t i s t h e u n i v e r s a l w i t n e s s t h a t

there is Love i n t h e h e a r t o f n a t u r e d e s p i t e i n o r g a n i c

c r u e l t i e s . If there was any Hindu Thomas of old to say

h e w o u l d n o t b e l i e v e i n S a t y a v a n ' s r e s u r r e c t i o n u n l e s s h e

s a w a n d t o u c h e d t h e s c a r o n h i s h e a d , t h e r e w o u l d b e a

f r i e n d l y p r o p h e t i n f e z t o . s a y . , " S a t i s f y y o u r s e l f , T h o m a s ;

y o u a r e r i g h t t o d e m a n d e v i d e n c e ; b u t b l i n d b e l i e f m a k e s

people happier . " E v e r y m i s s i o n a r y - u n l e s s m y g e n t l e

P o r t u g u e s e s c e p t i c o f S t . T h o m e-must be a Thomas in

d e n y i n g t h e r e s u r r e c t i o n o f S a t y a v a n i n o r d e r t o s i g n a l i z e

t h a t o f J e s u s , b u t t h e S a v a t r i a n d S a t y a v a n f o l k - t a l e w i l l

s t i l l b e i n t h e h e a r t , w h a t e v e r n a m e s a r e o n t h e l i p s .

S a v a t r i i s a t y p e , a s M a r y M a g d a l e n e a t t h e s e p u l c h r e

« w h i l e i t w a s y e t d a r k " i s a t y p e , o f t h e L o v e t h a t h e a l s ,



190 MY PILGRIMAGE

A l t h o u g h e v e r y t h i n g a t t r i b u t e d t o C h r i s t -t h a t i s t o

t h e p o s t - r e s u r r e c t i o n a l s u p p l a n t e r o f J e s u s - h a s t o b e

d o u b l y s c r u t i n i z e d , I t h i n k t h a t o n s o m e o c c a s i o n h e m a y

h a v e s a i d t o h i s s c e p t i c a l f r i e n d , p r o b a b l y w i t h a s m i l e ,

" T h o m a s , y o u c a n b e l i e v e o n l y w h a t y o u s e e ; t h e y a r e

h a p p i e r w h o c a n b e l i e v e w i t h o u t s e e i n g . "

In my long experience I have found very few even

a m o n g r a t i o n a l i s t s w h o w e r e a b l e t o g e t a l o n g w i t h o u t

b e l i e v i n g s o m e t h i n g f o r w h i c h t h e y c o u l d f i n d n o r e a s o n .

T h e o d o r e P a r k e r w a s u n a b l e t o h a r m o n i z e w i t h h i s f a i t h

t h e c r u e l t y o f a c a t p l a y i n g w i t h a t e r r i f i e d m o u s e b e f o r e

d e v o u r i n g i t , y e t h e c o u l d n o t o n t h a t a c c o u n t p a r t f r o m

b e l i e f i n t h e o m n i p o t e n c e o f a b e n e v o l e n t C r e a t o r . H i s

E n g l i s h f r i e n d a n d e d i t o r , F r a n c e s P o w e r C o b b e , w h o

d e v o t e d m a n y y e a r s t o t h e p r o t e c t i o n o f a n i m a l s f r o m

c r u e l t y , u s e d t o q u o t e S i r H e n r y T a y l o r ' s t e r r i b l e l i n e s ,

Pa i n i n m a n

B e a r s t h e h i g h m i s s i o n o f t h e f l a i l a n d f a n ,

I n b r u t e s ' t i s p u r e l y p i t e o u s .

B u t I h a v e i n v a i n a s k e d o f e m i n e n t t h e i s t s w h y O m n i -

w a s e r a s e d f r o m t h e S y n o p t i c s . ) T h e " G o s p e l a c c o r d i n g t o T h o m a s "

( p r o b a b l y n e a r t h e c l o s e o f t h e s e c o n d c e n t u r y ) w a s c o n d e m n e d b y H i p -

p o l y t u s i n a p a s s a g e q u o t e d b y G r e n f e l l a n d H u n t w h i c h s h o w s t h a t t h e r e

w a s a s e c t w h i c h b e l i e v e d t h a t T h o m a s h a d r e c e i v e d e s p e c i a l c o n f i d e n c e s

f r o m J e s u s . T h e e x t r a c t f r o m H i p p o l y t u s ( R e f u t . v . 7 ) i s a s f o l l o w s : -

" B u t t h e y ( t h e N a a s s e n e s ) a s s e r t t h a t n o t o n l y i s t h e r e i n f a v o u r o f t h e i r

d o c t r i n e t e s t i m o n y t o b e d r a w n f r o m t h e m y s t e r i e s o f t h e A s s y r i a n s , b u t

a l s o f r o m t h o s e o f t h e P h r y g i a n s c o n c e r n i n g t h e h a p p y n a t u r e , c o n c e a l e d

a n d y e t a t t h e s a m e t i m e d i s c l o s e d , o f t h i n g s t h a t h a v e b e e n a n d a r e c o m -

i n g i n t o e x i s t e n c e a n d m o r e o v e r w i l l b e ( a h a p p y n a t u r e ) , w h i c h ( t h e

N a a s s e n e ) s a y s i s t h e k i n g d o m o f h e a v e n t o b e s o u g h t f o r w i t h i n a m a n .

A n d c o n c e r n i n g t h i s [ n a t u r e ] t h e y h a n d d o w n a n e x p l i c i t p a s s a g e o c c u r r i n g

i n t h e G o s p e l i n s c r i b e d ` a c c o r d i n g t o T h o m a s , ' e x p r e s s i n g t h e m s e l v e s

t h u s : ' H e w h o s e e k s m e w i l l f i n d m e i n c h i l d r e n f r o m s e v e n y e a r s o l d ;

f o r t h e r e c o n c e a l e d I s h a l l i n t h e f o u r t e e n t h a g e ( o r p e o n ) b e m a d e m a n i -

f e s t . ' "



V I R C I I A N D R . G A N DH I



PAIN AND PIETY 1 9 1

p o t e n t L o v e s h o u l d u s e t r i b u l a t i o n -t h e f l a i l a n d f a n -on human beings? No good parent would chastise a child

if he were omnipotent . No surgeon would cause pain if

h e w e r e o m n i p o t e n t . I o n c e l e c t u r e d f o r D r . F e l i x A d l e r ' s

Ethical Culture Society in New York on "The Religion

of Humanity," my contention being that the dogmas of

hereditary sin, imputed guilt, endless punishment were

f a i r t r a n s c r i p t s o f t h e l a w s o f n a t u r e , t h e g r e a t e r r o r b e i n g

i n t h e b e l i e f t h a t t h e s e i n j u s t i c e s a n d a g o n i e s o f n a t u r e

were the laws of omnipotent deity, and that there was

a n y c r e a t i o n o r C r e a t o r . M y a r g u m e n t w a s t h a t e i t h e r

t h e o m n i p o t e n c e o r t h e g o o d n e s s o r t h e e x i s t e n c e o f d e i t y

m u s t b e s u r r e n d e r e d b y E t h i c a l R e l i g i o n . Dr . A d l e r a r o s e

a t t h e c l o s e o f m y d i s c o u r s e a n d a n n o u n c e d t h a t o n t h e

f o l l o w i n g S u n d a y h e w o u l d r e v i e w i t a n d s t a t e h i s d i f f e r -

ences from me . A n e n g a g e m e n t i n a n o t h e r c i t y p r e v e n t e d

m y h e a r i n g h i m , a n d I c o u l d f i n d n o r e p o r t o f h i s c r i t i -

c i s m s , b u t i n a c o n v e r s a t i o n h e p l a n t e d h i m s e l f o n K a n t ' s

" c a t e g o r i c a l i m p e r a t i v e , " a n d t o l d m e a b o u t a y o u n g l a d y

f r i e n d o f h i s w h o m p a i n h a d b r o u g h t i n t o a b e a u t i f u l a n d

p a t i e n t s p i r i t a s s h e w a s s l o w l y d y i n g . Of course I knew

of many such cases, and may have mentioned to him -t h o u g h I a m n o t c e r t a i n o f t h i s -the case of a young

author in Brooklyn whose talent and cul ture had been

d e v e l o p e d b y t h e c o n f i n e m e n t c o n s e q u e n t o n t h e b r e a k i n g

of his back in childhood . The d evelopment wa s credit-

a b l e t o t h e y o u n g m a n , b u t b y n o m e a n s c r e d i t a b l e t o t h e

c a r e l e s s c a u s e o f h i s m i s f o r t u n e . O f c o u r s e a w i s e m o r a l i s t

h a s t o b e s o m e w h a t p a t h o l o g i c a l i n d e a l i n g w i t h s u f f e r e r s ,

b u t h e w i l l n o n e t h e l e s s s a y w i t h J e s u s , W o e t o h i m b y

w h o m t h e s u f f e r i n g c o m e s . N o r d o I b e l i e v e t h a t t h e e v i l s

a n d a g o n i e s o f t h e w o r l d w i l l e v e r b e m u c h d i m i n i s h e d s o

l o n g a s g e n e r a t i o n s a r e t r a i n e d t o s e e i n s u c h h o r r o r s a



1 9 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

d i v i n e h a n d , i n s t e a d o f s e e i n g t h a t h a n d s o l e l y i n t h e

" e t e r n a l f e m i n i n e , " a s G o e t h e c a l l s i t , -t h e l o v i n g a n d

m a t e r n a l f o r c e , w e a k b u t u n w e a r i e d , g e n t l y p u s h i n g b a c k

t h e f r o n t i e r s o f w i l d a n d i n o r g a n i c n a t u r e .

T h i s o f c o u r s e i s a b o u t e q u i v a l e n t t o s a y i n g t h a t t h e

e v i l s a n d a g o n i e s o f t h e w o r l d w i l l n e v e r b e h e a l e d a t a l l

u n t i l t h e a l t a r s o f t h e e x i s t i n g d e i t i e s s o - c a l l e d a r e e n -

t i r e l y d e s e r t e d . I n n e a r l y a l l r e l i g i o n s t h e r e i s a s o r t o f

P a i n - w o r s h i p , w h i c h c o n t i n u e s i n t h e f a v o u r i t e w o r d o f

l i b e r a l C h r i s t i a n i t y , " S e l f - s a c r i f i c e , " a n d i n t h e f a i t h e x -

p r e s s e d i n T e n n y s o n ' s " D i v i n e d e p t h s o f s o r r o w . " W h y

not the divine depths of happ iness? Why should our

c h i l d r e n b e t r a i n e d t o t h i n k t h e i r g i v i n g u p s o m e p l e a s a n t

t h i n g t o g r a t i f y o t h e r s a s a c r i f i c e o f s e l f w h e n t h e y a r e

t h e r e b y g a i n i n g g r a t e f u l s m i l e s , f a r m o r e d e l i g h t f u l a n d

p r e c i o u s t h a n w h a t t h e y g i v e a w a y ? A f t e r a l l t h e a g e s ,

w e a r e u n a b l e t o s e e w i t h J e s u s t h a t i t i s g r e a t e r h a p p i -

n e s s t o g i v e t h a n t o r e c e i v e , a n d m u s t n e e d s g o o n s a y -

i n g " I t i s m o r e b l e s s e d , " t h a t i s , t h a t G o d p a y s i t b a c k

t o u s .

O n e o f t h e m o s t m i l d a n d l i b e r a l r e l i g i o n s i n I n d i a i s

t h e J a i n . T h e y h a v e n o p r i e s t s , b u t s o m e p u b l i c t e a c h e r s .

O n e o f t h e s e , V i r c h a n d R . G a n d h i , s t a y e d a t m y h o u s e

i n L o n d o n n e a r l y a w e e k , a n d m y w i f e a n d I f o u n d h i m

a t t r a c t i v e i n c o n v e r s a t i o n , t h o u g h w e c o u l d n o t u n d e r -

s t a n d h i s v e r y m y s t i c a l i d e a s . H e s h r a n k f r o m e v e n t h e

s m a l l e s t t h i n g t h a t i n c l i n e d t o w a r d s s e l f - i n d u l g e n c e . H e

w o u l d n o t r e m a i n a l o n e w i t h a l a d y . ( T h i s i s a T a l m u d i c

r e g u l a t i o n .) H e g a ve m e a pi ct u r e -i t i s n o w b e f o r e

m e - w h i c h r e p r e s e n t s t h e J a i n i d e a o f t h e m o r a l c o n -

d i t i o n o f m a n k i n d . T h e r e i s a b a n y a n - t r e e o n a l i m b o f

which bees have hived a mass of honeycomb, and be-

n e a t h i s a d i l a p i d a t e d w e l l i n w h i c h a r e s e e n v e n o m o u s



A COMPOSITE PICTURE 1 9 3

s e r p e n t s . A m a n h a s f a l l en i n t o t h e w e l l . H e i s k e p t

from sinking and drowning by holding on to the end of

a f r a i l b r a n c h w h i c h d e s c e n d s f r o m t h e t r e e . A s h e h o l d s

o n , t h e h o n e y d r o p s d o w n t o h i s l i p s , a n d s o a b s o r b e d i s

h e w i t h t h e s w e e t n e s s o f t h i s h o n e y t h a t h e d o e s n o t n o -

tice the serpents gathering near him, nor a rat above

g n a w i n g t h e s l e n d e r l i m b h e c l i n g s t o , n o r a n e l e p h a n t

w h o s e t r u n k i s a b o u t t o p u l l d o w n t h e e n t i r e t r e e; n o r

d o e s h e r e g a r d a t a l l a h o l y t e a c h e r w i t h h i s s t a f f o f f e r i n g

t o s a v e h i m . T h i s h o l y m a n i s i n t h e g a r b o f a B u d d h i s t

priest, but he has beard and hair much like an earl y

c o n v e n t i o n a l i z e d C h r i s t , a n d a s o r t o f a s p e r s o i r u n d e r h i s

l e f t a r m . I s u s p e c t t h e p i c t u r e t o b e c o m p o s i t e , -B r a h -

m a n i s m , B u d d h i s m , a n d C a t h o l i c i s m p e r v e r t i n g s o m e s i m -

ple fable reminding man that he may be so absorbed in

o n e p l e a s u r e o r p a s s i o n a s t o s u f f e r b y t h e a t r o p h y o f o t h e r

s e n s e s a n d f a c u l t i e s . I t m a y b e f e a r e d t h a t u n p h i l o s o p h i -

c a l l i t t l e J a i n s a r e b r o u g h t u p w i t h s o m e s u s p i c i o n t h a t

s w e e t t h i n g s g e n e r a l l y a r e w i c k e d a n d d a n g e r o u s . W h e n

w e g o b a c k t o t h e e a r l i e s t a g e s w e f i n d m o r e r e l i g i o n o f

j o y t h a n i n t h e m o d e r n w o r l d : i t i s s o i n t h e V e d i c h y m n s

a n d Z e n d l i t a n i e s .

While Christianity, claiming to have come into th e

w o r l d w i t h g l a d t i d i n g s o f g r e a t j o y t o a l l m a n k i n d , h a s

shed more blood and caused more misery than all other

r e l i g i o n s p u t t o g e t h e r , t h e B u d d h i s t r e l i g i o n , b e g i n n i n g

w i t h a p h i l o s o p h y t h a t s e e m s p e s s i m i s t i c , - w i t h o u t d e i t y

o r f a i t h i n a n y p a r a d i s e , h e a v e n l y o r m i l l e n n i a l , - h a s p r o -

d u c e d t h e h a p p i e s t b e l i e v e r s o n e a r t h . Many a Christian

c h i l d m o p i n g u n d e r a m i s e r a b l e S a b b a t h , f o r b i d d e n g a m e s

a n d s p o r t s , o v e r s h a d o w e d b y e q u a l f e a r o f d e i t y a n d

d e v i l , g i v i n g h i s p e n n i e s o r d i m e s t o s e n d h i s g l o o m t o

C e y l o n ' s i s l e , -ah, many a child might envy the joyous



1 9 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

i n n o c e n c e o f t h o s e c h i l d r e n i n C e y l o n , g r o w i n g u p u n d e r

t h e s p i r i t o f t h e a n c i e n t c a r o l d e r i v e d f r o m B u d d h a : -

T h i s i s w h a t s h o u l d b e d o n e b y h i m w h o i s w i s e i n

s e e k i n g h i s o w n g o o d , a n d g a i n i n g a k n o w l e d g e o f t h e

t r a n q u i l l o t o f N i r v a n a : -

L e t h i m b e d i l i g e n t , u p r i g h t , a n d c o n s c i e n t i o u s ; n o t

v a i n g l o r i o u s , b u t g e n t l e a n d l o w l y ;

C o n t e n t e d a n d c h e e r f u l ; n o t o p p r e s s e d w i t h c a r e s ;

n o t b u r d e n e d w i t h r i c h e s ; t r a n q u i l , p r u d e n t , f r e e f r o m

a r r o g a n c e a n d a v a r i c e .

L e t h i m n o t d o a n y m e a n a c t i o n , n o r i n c u r t h e r e -

p r o v a l o f w i s e m e n .

L e t a l l c r e a t u r e s b e p r o s p e r o u s a n d h a p p y , l e t t h e m b e

o f j o y f u l m i n d ; a l l b e i n g s t h a t h a v e l i f e , b e t h e y f e e b l e

o r s t r o n g , b e t h e y m i n u t e o r v a s t

S e e n o r u n s e e n , n e a r o r a f a r , b o r n o r s e e k i n g b i r t h , l e t

a l l b e i n g s b e j o y f u l .

L e t n o m a n d e c e i v e a n o t h e r ; l e t n o n e b e h a r s h t o a n y ;

l e t n o n e w i s h i l l t o h i s n e i g h b o u r .

L e t t h e l o v e t h a t f i l l s a m o t h e r ' s h e a r t a s s h e w a t c h e s

o v e r a n o n l y c h i l d , e v e n s u c h l o v e a n i m a t e a l l t o w a r d s a l l .

L e t t h e g o o d w i l l t h a t i s b o u n d l e s s , i m m e a s u r a b l e ,

i m p a r t i a l , u n m i x e d w i t h e n m i t y , p r e v a i l t h r o u g h o u t t h e

w o r l d - a b o v e , b e l o w , a r o u n d .

I f a m a n b e o f t h i s m i n d , w h e r e v e r h e m o v e s , a n d i n

e v e r y m o m e n t , t h e s a y i n g i s c o m e t o p a s s , 1 1 T h i s p l a c e i s

t h e a b o d e o f h o l i n e s s . "



CHAPTER XA d y a r -Mme . B l a v a t s l ; y a n d h e r c o n f e s s i o n -T h e T h e o s o p h i s t s - A n

A m e r i c a n r e c e i v i n g t h e B u d d h i s t p a n s a l a - T h e a t t e m p t e d f r a u d o n t h e

B roughtons-L etter of Commissioner B roughton -Origin of Koo-

thoomi- Revelations of Mme . Coulomb .

WHEN Mme . B l a v a t s k y w a s o n h e r w a y f r o m N e w

Y o r k t o I n d i a s h e s t o p p e d f o r s o m e d a y s i n L o n -

d o n , a n d m y w i f e a n d I w e r e i n v i t e d t o m e e t h e r a t t h e

house of Mr . a n d M r s . W i l l i a m T e b b . M r s . C o n w a y w a s

n o t a t t r a c t e d b y h e r , b u t I f o u n d h e r e n t e r t a i n i n g . Sh e

h a d n o t h i n g t h a t c o u l d b e d e s c r i b e d a s c u l t u r e ; a n d t h o u g h

t h e w o r k , " I s i s U n v e i l e d , " a s c r i b e d t o h e r , w a s w i t h o u t

v a l u e t o m e s o f a r a s I r e a d i t , I h a v e n e v e r b e l i e v e d

s h e c o u l d w r i t e a n y t h i n g s o e l a b o r a t e . I n f a c t , t h o u g h

Mme. B l a v a t s k y w a s e n t e r t a i n i n g , i t w a s b e c a u s e o f h e r

g o s s i p y k n o w l e d g e o f c o n t e m p o r a r y p e r s o n s a n d e v e n t s .

S u c h a t a n y r a t e w a s t h e k i n d o f c o n v e r s a t i o n s h e c a r -

r i e d o n w i t h m y s e l f , a n d I w o n d e r e d h o w m y t h o u g h t f u l

f r i e n d s , t h e T e b b s , c o u l d t a k e h e r s o s e r i o u s l y.

A f t e r a t i m e r e p o r t s c a m e f r o m I n d i a o f M m e . B l a v a t -

s k y ' s n e w r e l i g i o n c a l l e d T h e o s o p h y , a n d o f h e r m i r a c l e s .

M a r i o n C r a w f o r d i n t r o d u c e d a m y s t e r i o u s " M a h a t m a "

i n t o h i s r o m a n c e , " M r . I s a a c s , " a n d w a s p r o u d l y c l a i m e d

b y T h e o s o p h i s t s ( w h o m , h o w e v e r , a n d t h e i r w o n d e r s h e

r i d i c u l e d i n c o n v e r s a t i o n o n m y m e n t i o n i n g t h e m a t t e r ) .

At length Mr . S i n n e t t c a m e t o L o n d o n f r o m I n d i a a s a n

a p o s t l e o f t h e n e w f a i t h , o f w h i c h h e g a v e s t r a n g e n a r r a -

t i v e s , m o s t l y t o t h e e l i t e g a t h e r e d i n f a s h i o n a b l e d r a w i n g -

rooms . I l i s t e n e d t o s e v e r a l o f h i s a d d r e s s e s , a n d a f t e r

o n e i n w h i c h h e t o l d o f t h e w o n d e r f u l M a h a t m a s , w h o



1 9 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

h a d l i v e d f o r a g e s a n d w e r e n o w s e m i - v i s i b l y r e v e a l i n g

themselves, I had some conversation with him . I w a s

a b o u t t o g o t o I n d i a , a n d e n q u i r e d w h e t h e r I c o u l d f i n d

out one of the Mahatmas . He gave a start, and with a

look of surprise said, "Do you mean, can you see and

talk with a Mahatma as you are talking with me now? "

" Y e s , " I r e p l i e d , u n c o n s c i o u s o f my naivete . " N o , " h e

a n s w e r e d , a n d w e n t o n w i t h a n e b u l o u s e x p l a n a t i o n .

Mr. S i n n e t t ' s b o o k , " Esoteric Buddhism," gave me an

i m p r e s s i o n t h a t M m e . Blavatsky had simply invented a

n e w s e t o f a r c h a n g e l s a n d s a i n t s t o s u p p l y t h a t r e v e r -

e n t i a l f o g a m i d w h i c h a l l i m p o s t u r e s a r e p o s s i b l e . I t w a s ,

h o w e v e r , a s e r i o u s t h i n g t h a t s u c h n o t i o n s s h o u l d i n f e c t

excellent people, and it became one of my duties as a

p u b l i c t e a c h e r t o i n v e s t i g a t e i t . All the way around the

world I was urged by persons of influence to exam ine

T h e o s o p h y i n I n d i a . I n S y d n e y , J u d g e W i n d e y e r , i n

whose house I passed several days, and who was one of

t h e b e s t o f m e n , a s s u r e d m e t h a t I w o u l d f i n d t h e e v i -

d e n c e s o f T h e o s o p h y i r r e s i s t i b l e . I n t h e s a m e c i t y t h e l a t e

P r o f e s s o r J o h n S m i t h s a i d h e h a d b e e n i m p r e s s e d b y h i s

interviews with Mme . B l a v a t s k y , a n d I p r o m i s e d h i m a n d

h i s w i f e , t o w h o m I o w e d m u c h f o r t h e i r h o s p i t a l i t y , t h a t

I w o u l d i n v e s t i g a t e t h e m a t t e r .

A n d t h u s i t w a s t h a t o n a b r i g h t d a y i n 1 8 8 4 , b e g i n -

n i n g w i t h t h e e l e p h a n t - h e a d e d g o d o f w i s d o m a t M a d r a s ,

and travelling to the shrine of Doubting Didymus and

h i s l o n e l y p r i e s t , I p r o c e e d e d t o v i s i t t h e h i g h p r i e s t e s s o f

T h e o s o p h y .

The centre of the Theosophic cult is Adyar . O n t h e

g a t e w a y w a s w r i t t e n , " H e a d q u a r t e r s o f t h e T h e o s o p h i c a l

S o c i e t y ." At the entrance of the park was the dilapi-

d a t e d c a r c a s s o f a b l u e p a s t e b o a r d e l e p h a n t , w h i c h i t a p -



MADAME BLAVATSKY



ADYAR 1 9 7

p e a r e d s o m e M a d r a s b e l i e v e r h a d s e t u p o n a r e c e n t T h e o -

s o p h i c a n n i v e r s a r y . The carriage-road wound through

a l e a f y p a r k u p t o a h a n d s o m e b u n g a l o w . T h e s p a c i o u s

v e r a n d a d i s p l a y e d e v e r y e l e g a n c e , b u t i t w a s u n o c c u p i e d .

F o r a f e w m i n u t e s m y d r i v e r v a i n l y t r i e d t o f i n d s o m e o n e

a b o u t t h e p l a c e , a n d I w a s c o n s c i o u s o f a h a l f h o p e t h a t n o

o n e m i g h t b e ' a t h o m e . M y a r r i v a l , h o w e v e r , w a s k n o w n

a y o u n g B a b u c a m e t o b r i n g m e t h e " C o u n t e s s " B l a v a t -

s k y ' s w e l c o m e , a n d t o s a y s h e w o u l d p r e s e n t l y r e c e i v e m e .

Next a Hindu youth of remarkable appearance - d e l i -

c a t e , a l m o s t m a i d e n l y -a d v a n c e d ; b u t w h e n , i n r e s p o n s e

t o h i s g r e e t i n g , I h e l d o u t m y b a n d , h e s a i d s w e e t l y ,

" I c a n n o t s h a k e h a n d s w i t h y o u . " I a f t e r w a r d s l e a r n e d

t h a t t h i s y o u t h w a s " a l a y c h e l a , " t h a t h e a l r e a d y p o s -

s e s s e d t h e p o w e r o f a p p e a r i n g a t a d i s t a n c e i n h i s " a s t r a l "

b o d y , a n d t h a t i f h e s h o o k h a n d s h i s m a g n e t i s m m i g h t b e

i m p a i r e d .

I w a s s o r r y t o h e a r t h a t t h e p r e s i d e n t , " C o l o n e l " O l c o t t ,

w a s a b s e n t . H e w a s f o u n d i n g a n e w b r a n c h o f t h e s o c i -

e t y s o m e w h e r e . T h e " C o u n t e s s " B l a v a t s k y w a s c o r d i a l ,

a n d u r g e d m y r e m a i n i n g t i l l t h e m o r n i n g . I a c c e p t e d h e r

i n v i t a t i o n s o f a r a s t h e r e s t o f t h e e v e n i n g w a s c o n c e r n e d ,

a n d w a s t h e r e n e a r l y s i x h o u r s . B e s i d e s t h e t w o m e n -

t i o n e d , t h e r e w e r e t w o o t h e r n a t i v e g e n t l e m e n , o n e o f t h e m

( N o r e n d r o n a t h S e n ) k n o w n t o m e b y r e p u t a t i o n a s e d i t o r

o f t h e " I n d i a n M i r r o r . " A m e r i c a w a s r e p r e s e n t e d i n t h e

company by a Dr . H a r t m a n n o f C o l o r a d o . A n o t h e r p e r -

son present was Mr . W . T. B r o w n o f G l a s g o w , a y o u n g

m a n o f p l e a s a n t m a n n e r s , w h o t o l d m e s o m e o f h i s m a r -

v e l l o u s e x p e r i e n c e s ; b u t w h e n I i n t i m a t e d t h a t I w o u l d

l i k e t o c a r r y a w a y s o m e l i t t l e m a r v e l o f m y o w n e x p e -

r i e n c e , t h e r e p l y u n p l e a s a n t l y r e c a l l e d v a i n a t t e m p t s m a d e

t h r o u g h m a n y y e a r s t o w i t n e s s a v e r i f i a b l e s p i r i t u a l i s t i c



1 9 8 MY PILGRIMAGE

" p h e n o m e n o n . " I w a s o n c e m o r e p u t o f f w i t h n a r r a t i v e s

o f w h a t h a d o c c u r r e d b e f o r e I c a m e , a n d p r e d i c t i o n s o f

what might occur if I should come again . There was a

c a b i n e t s h r i n e i n w h i c h l e t t e r s w e r e d e p o s i t e d a n d s w i f t

a n s w e r s r e c e i v e d f r o m t h e w o n d e r f u l M a h a t m a s ; b u t w h e n

I p r o p o s e d t o w r i t e a n o t e , I w a s i n f o r m e d t h a t o n l y a f e w

d a y s b e f o r e t h e M a h a t m a s h a d f o r b i d d e n a n y f u r t h e r c a b -

i n e t c o r r e s p o n d e n c e . I s a i d t h a t w a s j u s t m y l u c k i n s u c h

m a t t e r s ; w h e r e v e r a m i r a c l e o c c u r s I w a s a l w a y s t o o s o o n

o r t o o l a t e t o s e e i t . M y e x p e r i e n c e w a s t h a t o f A l i c e i n

the Looking-glass,-"Jam yesterday, jam to-morrow, but

n e v e r j a m t o - d a y . "

Mme . B l a v a t s k y h a d b e e n f o r e w a r n e d b y P r o f e s s o r J o h n

S m i t h o f m y v i s i t , a n d a s a s h r e w d r e a d e r o f t h o u g h t s s a w

t h a t I r e g a r d e d t h e n e w o r d e r a g a i n s t l e t t e r s a s a i m e d a t

m y i n v e s t i g a t i o n . I w a s c a r e f u l , h o w e v e r , n o t t o s a y t h a t

I t h o u g h t i t u n r e a s o n a b l e f o r t h e M a h a t m a t o f o r e c l o s e

t h e c a b i n e t t e s t j u s t a s h i s o m n i s c i e n c e k n e w t h a t o n e

was coming who needed the wonders s o m u c h m o r e t h a n

t h e c o n v i n c e d a l r e a d y . M y s e l f - r e s t r a i n t i n n o t p r e s s i n g

the point in company pleased her . S o m e o f t h e y o u n g

neophytes moved off the veranda and strolled medita-

t i v e l y u n d e r t h e p a l m s . T h e i r f a c e s w e r e s e r e n e l y s o l e m n ;

t h e y d i d n o t t a l k o r s m i l e ; t h e y i m p r e s s e d m e o u t t h e r e

a s r a r e p l a n t s i n a n u r s e r y , t h a t m u s t b e s e v e r a l l y k e p t

u n d e r g l a s s i n c o l d w e a t h e r . These Hindu neophytes, not

o n e o f t h e m f e m i n i n e , w e r e o f w e a l t h y f a m i l i e s a n d o f h i g h

c a s t e ; I w a s t o l d t h a t t h e h a n d s o m e m a n s i o n w a s f u r n i s h e d

by them . M r . Sinnett and others in England and Amer-

i c a w e r e t a l k i n g a g o o d d e a l a b o u t g r e a t s a c r i f i c e s m a d e

b y t h e " Countess " f o r t h e s a k e o f h e r c a u s e , b u t I s a w

n o t r a c e o r s u g g e s t i o n o f m a r t y r d o m a t t h e h e a d q u a r t e r s .

T h e h o u s e , s u r r o u n d e d b y a f i n e p a r k , w a s s p a c i o u s a n d



MME. BLAVATSKY 1 9 9

p r e t t y ; the long veranda was well sup plied with easy

chairs softly cushioned, and a table with English and

A m e r i c a n m a g az i n e s a n d t h e n e w n o v e l s ; a n d m a d a m e

d r o v e i n h e r o w n n e a t c a r r i a g e w i t h f i n e h o r s e s , a s I h a d

grateful reason to know, having returned to Madras in

i t . W h i l e n e v e r r e g a r d i n g M m e . B l a v a t s k y ' s c a r e e r a s

i n s p i r e d b y d e s i r e f o r g a i n , I c a n n o t b u t s m i l e w h e n e v e r

I h e a r T h e o s o p h i s t s t a l k a b o u t h e r m o v e m e n t i n I n d i a a s

w r o u g h t b y s e l f - s a c r i f i c i n g d e v o t i o n . C e r t a i n l y t h e r e w a s

no pretence of that kind in Mme . B l a v a t s k y h e r s e l f . She

s a t i n h e r l a r g e d e c o r a t e d c h a i r , i n a n a i r y w h i t e b e l t l e s s

gown much in the style of the midsummer dress of Rus-

s i a n l a d i e s , e n d l e s s l y s m o k i n g c i g a r e t t e s , c o n v e r s i n g i n a

f r e e a n d e a s y w a y , a n d p u t t i n g o n n o a i r s a t a l l . M a d a m e

w a s n o t p r e t t y , b u t s h e w a s a n o t a b l e f i g u r e , h e r e y e s c a p a ,

b l e o f e v e r y v a r i e t y o f e x p r e s s i o n , a n d h e r h u m o u r a l w a y s

p l a y i n g .

At a certain moment when we happened to be alone on

t h e v e r a n d a m a d a m e a r o s e a n d a s k e d m e t o f o l l o w h e r .

S h e l e d m e t h r o u g h a h a l l a n d a l o n g a c o r r i d o r , t h e n u p

a s t a i r w a y t o a b o u d o i r r i c h l y d e c o r a t e d . There she in-

v i t e d m e t o t a k e a s e a t , a n d p r o f f e r e d a b o x o f c i g a r e t t e s ,

l i g h t i n g o n e f o r h e r s e l f . I preferred my cigar, and was

r e a d y f o r a n a p p a r e n t l y i n t e n d e d e n c o u n t e r . S h e a s k e d

what was my particular proposal or desire . I s a i d , " I

w i s h t o f i n d o u t s o m e t h i n g a b o u t t h e s t r a n g e p e r f o r m a n c e s

a t t r i b u t e d t o y o u . I hear of your drawing teapots from

u n d e r y o u r c h a i r , t a k i n g b r o o c h e s o u t o f f l o w e r s , a n d o f

o t h e r m i r a c l e s . I f s u c h t h i n g s r e a l l y o c c u r I d e s i r e t o

k n o w i t , a n d t o g i v e a t e s t i m o n y t o m y p e o p l e i n L o n d o n

in favour of Theosophy . What does it all mean?"

S h e s a i d w i t h a s e r e n e s m i l e , " I w i l l t e l l y o u , b e c a u s e

y o u a r e a p u b l i c t e a c h e r [ h e r e s h e a d d e d s o m e f l a t t e r y ] ,



20 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

a n d y o u o u g h t t o k n o w t h e t r u t h : i t i s a l l g l a m o u r - p e o p l e

t h i n k t h e y s e e w h a t t h e y d o n o t s e e-h a t i s t h e w h o l e

o f i t . "

I t w a s i m p o s s i b l e n o t t o a d m i r e t h e a r t o f t h i s c o n f e s s i o n .

Mme. B l a v a t s k y , f o r e w a r n e d b y P r o f e s s o r J o h n S m i t h o f

m y i n t e n d e d i n v e s t i g a t i o n , b a d a r r a n g e d p r e c i s e l y t h e o n e

m a n o e u v r e t h a t c o u l d t h w a r t i t . H a d I c o n t i n u e d i t , c r o s s -

e x a m i n i n g h e r a d h e r e n t s , p r o p o s i n g p l a n s f o r v e r i f i c a t i o n ,

I might have awakened doubts and suspicions among her

" n e o p h y t e s . " B u t s h e s p i k e d m y g u n s ; h e r c o n f e s s i o n

w a s m a d e w i t h o u t w i t n e s s e s , a n d s h o u l d I u s e i t p u b l i c l y

i t w a s e a s y e n o u g h t o s a y I h a d m i s u n d e r s t o o d h e r . A n d

moreover she had used the vague word " glamour," which

m i g h t p r e s e r v e h e r p e r s o n a l t h r o n e w h i l e g i v i n g u p t h e

r e a l i t y o f t h e t h i n g s a t t e s t e d b y h e r m i r a c l e s .

I d i d n o t p r e s s t h e m a t t e r a t a l l . I felt that madame

was a genius in her way, and a moral phenomenon to be

s t u d i e d , b u t s h e m a d e n o p r e t e n c e s w i t h m e . O f t h e

c o m m o n T h e o s o p h i c t a l k a b o u t a n e w e r a , w e l f a r e o f

humanity, reincarnation, there was no trace whatever .

Not a word about " Occultism " o r a n y o t h e r " i s m " c a m e

from her, nor anything in the way of an abstraction .

S h e g o s s i p e d w i t t i l y a n d s o m e t i m e s s a t i r i c a l l y a b o u t t h i s

or that person she had met in America, London, Paris,

a n d t o l d a m u s i n g a n e c d o t e s .

A b o u t s e v e n a s i g n a l f o r d i n n e r i n t e r r u p t e d t h e b o u -

d o i r i n t e r v i e w . There were seven or eight at the large

r o u n d t a b l e , a l l o f u s w h i t e s . T h e d i n n e r w a s e x c e l l e n t ,

but one or two of the young men did not eat the meat .

Mme . B l a v a t s k y a t e l i t t l e a n d s m o k e d m o s t o f t h e t i m e .

In the ' talk, which was all about Theosophic marvels,

Mme . Blavatsky did not participate except with some

such remark as, "There, Mr . Conway, what can be said



ORIGIN OF KOOTHOOMI 201

o f s u c h e v e n t s ? " e t c. S h e l i m i t e d h e r s e l f t o m i l d i n t e r -

j e c t i o n s , b u t m e a n t i m e e x c h a n g i n g w i t h m e h u m o r o u s

l o o k s ; f o r t h e s i t u a t i o n w a s i n d e e d a m u s i n g .

T h e r e w a s a t t h e t a b l e a w o m a n t o w h o m I w a s n o t i n -

t r o d u c e d , b u t w h o m I r e m a r k e d b e c a u s e s h e d i d n o t s a y

a w o r d n o r e v e n s m i l e d u r i n g t h e m e a l , a n d I t h o u g h t

w a t c h e d m e c l o s e l y .

There were named three Mahatmas in the Blavatsky

s y s t e m : K o o t h o o m i , M o r y a , a n d D j u a l K h o o t . I s t r o n g l y

s u s p e c t t h e l a t t e r t o b e a n o t h e r o f M m e . B l a v a t s k y ' s j o k e s .

H a v i n g c r e a t e d t h e i m a g i n a r y K o o t h o o m i ( o r i g i n a l l y K o t -

t h u m e ) b y p i e c i n g t o g e t h e r p a r t s o f t h e n a m e s o f h e r

t w o c h i e f d i s c i p l e s , O l c o t t a n d H u m e , t h a t s u c c e s s p r o b -

a b l y l e d h e r t o c r e a t e a n o t h e r M a h a t m a , - a s e c o n d

C o t t ( O l c o t t ) t r a v e s t i e d a s a d u a l o r D j u a l K h o o t .

A f t e r d i n n e r t h e y o u n g m e n w e r e a l l e a g e r t o h a v e

m e g o i n t o t h e s a c r e d r o o m , t h o u g h M m e . B l a v a t s k y w a s

r a t h e r r e l u c t a n t . I t w a s a s m a l l r o o m a n d i t s o n l y f u r -

n i t u r e t h e s o - c a l l e d " s h r i n e , " - r e a l l y a c a b i n e t s u c h a s

S p i r i t u a l i s t s o r d i n a r i l y u s e , t h o u g h s m a l l e r , a n d s u c h a s

Mme. B l a v a t s k y h e r s e l f p r o b a b l y u s e d w h e n a s p i r i t - r a p -

ping medium in America . T h e o n l y p e r s o n s I r e m e m b e r

p r e s e n t b e s i d e s M m e . B l a v a t s k y w e r e t w o y o u n g H i n d u s ,

a n d o n e n t e r i n g t h e y i n s t a n t l y p r o s t r a t e d t h e m s e l v e s o n

t h e f l o o r , f l a t o n t h e i r s t o m a c h s , b u r y i n g t h e i r e y e s u n d e r

f o l d e d h a n d s . I t o c c u r r e d t o m e t h a t I m y s e l f c o u l d p e r -

f o r m m i r a c l e s a m o n g s u c h w i t n e s s e s . M a d a m e s t o o d w i t h

a n a m u s e d s m i l e l o o k i n g f r o m t h e n e o p h y t e s t o m e . She

t h e n o p e n e d t h e d o o r s o f t h e c a b i n e t , w h i c h w a s a b o u t f i v e

f e e t h i g h b y f o u r w i d e . I t w a s t a s t e f u l l y d e c o r a t e d , a n d

w h e n o p e n e d r i c h l y w r o u g h t m e t a l w a s d i s c l o s e d . I n i t

s a t a s m a l l B u d d h a , a n d o n e a c h s i d e , i n f r a m e s a b o u t

s e v e n i n c h e s h i g h , a p i c t u r e . T h e s e w e r e o f t w o l i g h t - b r o w n



2 0 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

p e r s o n s , t h e c h i e f " M a h a t m a s , " d o n e b y s o m e p r o c e s s

s a i d t o b e o c c u l t . T h e p o r t r a i t o f 11 K o o t h o o m i " w a s , I f e e l

s u r e , f r o m o n e o f R a m m o h u n R o y m a d e i n L o n d o n b y m y

o l d f r i e n d J a m e s P h i l p . A c o p y o f t h e p o r t r a i t o f t h a t

f a m o u s f o u n d e r o f B r a h m o t h e i s m , g i v e n m e b y F r a n k l i n

P h i l p i n W a s h i n g t o n , h a d b e e n o n m y w a l l t h i r t y y e a r s b e -

f o r e I s a w h i m f a k e d u p a s " K o o t h o o m i , " w i t h a p r a y i n g

m a c h i n e o n h i s h e a d. T h e o t h e r M a h a t m a i n t h e c a b i n e t

w a s M o r y a , w h o s e e m e d t o b e a R a j a h f r o m s o m e s a c r e d

p i c t u r e , p e r h a p s a m a n i p u l a t e d R a m a . I a g a i n p r o p o s e d

t o l e a v e a l e t t e r t o o n e o f t h e M a h a t m a s , b u t m a d a m e

s h r u g g e d h e r s h o u l d e r s a n d c l o s e d t h e c a b i n e t .

When we had returned to the veranda most of t he

y o u n g m e n d e c l a r e d t h e y h a d a t t i m e s s e e n K o o t h o o m i .

K n o w i n g w e l l t h a t K o o t h o o m i w a s a n a m e t w i s t e d f r o m

O 1 [ c o t t - H u m e ] , a n d t h a t n o s u c h b e i n g e x i s t e d , I s t i l l

d i d n o t q u e s t i o n t h e g o o d f a i t h o f t h e s e y o u n g m e n ; b u t

I q u i e t l y c r o s s - e x a m i n e d t h e m , w i t h o u t s e e m i n g t o d o s o ,

and found that they had seen him generally in his

" a s t r a l " b o d y . T h r e e t h o u g h t t h e y h a d s e e n h i m o n c e

i n h i s p h y s i c a l b o d y , b u t t h e i r t e s t i m o n y w a s u n s a t i s f a c -

t o r y , e s p e c i a l l y a s I h a d o b s e r v e d i n t h e s a c r e d r o o m t h e i r

m e t h o d o f o b s e r v i n g t h i n g s w i t h t h e i r e y e s c l o s e t o t h e

f l o o r. M r . B r o w n o f G l a s g o w w a s c a n d i d i n h i s n a r r a t i v e

o f h i s t h r e e m e e t i n g s w i t h K o o t h o o m i . O n t h e f i r s t o c c a -

s i o n h e s a i d h e w a s s o o v e r w h e l m e d w i t h a w e t h a t h e

"could not look upon him . " O n t h e n e x t o c c a s i o n t h e

M a h a t m a w a s a t s o m e l i t t l e d i s t a n c e , h i s h e a d a n d l o w e r

f a c e b e i n g c o v e r e d a f t e r t h e m a n n e r o f s a c r e d R a j a h s .

O n t h e l a s t o c c a s i o n i t w a s a t n i g h t , M r . B r o w n b e i n g i n

b e d , a n d h e o n l y k n e w t h a t h e h a d b e e n w i t h K o o t h o o m i

b y a h a n d k e r c h i e f m a r k e d " K. H . " s l i p p e d i n t o h i s h a n d

w i t h a l e t t e r . I t w a s e v i d e n t t h a t M r . B r o w n w a s s i n c e r e ,



THEOSOPHIC MIRACLES 2 0 3

a n d a l s o t h a t h e h a d n o p e r c e p t i o n o f t h e n a t u r e o f e v i -

d e n c e . S e v e r a l o f t h e l e t t e r s r e c e i v e d f r o m "K. H . " w e r e

s h o w n m e ; they were the merest commonplace notes,

w i t h o u t a n y v a l u e w h a t e v e r u n l e s s r e a d w i t h o c c u l t e m o -

t i o n s .

W h e n I l e f t i n t h e e v e n i n g f o r M a d r a s , M a d a m e

Bl a va t s k y s a i d m e r r i l y t h a t s h e w o u l d m a k e m e an

" a s t r a l "v i s i t i n L o n d o n . I r e m i n d e d h e r t h a t I h a d i n

t h e m o r n i n g l o o k e d w i t h d o u b t o n t h e f o o t p r i n t o f S t .

T h o m a s , t h e d i s c i p l e w h o w o u l d n o t b e l i e v e i n t h e e x -

i s t e n c e o f h i s M a h a t m a w i t h o u t t o u c h i n g h i m , a n d t h a t

h i s s c e p t i c a l s p i r i t i s s t i l l i n t h e e a r t h .

I w a s s u r p r i s e d n e x t m o r n i n g , w h e n w e w e r e o u t a t s e a

o n t h e T e h e r a n t o f i n d o n b o a r d N o r e n d r o n a t h S e n , w h o m

I h a d s e e n a t A d y a r , s t i l l m o r e t o h e a r f r o m h i m t h a t

w h i l e I w a s i n t h e p r e s e n c e o f t h e c a b i n e t a " s i g n " h a d

b e e n g i v e n o f w h i c h I t o o k n o n o t i c e . T h e y o u n g m e n

h a d t o l d h i m t h a t w h e n I e n t e r e d t h e r o o m a b e l l r a n g i n

a p l a c e w h e r e t h e r e w a s n o b e l l . I r e m a r k e d o n l y t h a t

i t w a s u n a c c o u n t a b l e t h a t m y a t t e n t i o n s h o u l d n o t h a v e

b e e n c a l l e d t o i t a t t h e t i m e . This Mr . S e n , o f t h e " I n d i a n

M i r r o r , " w a s a r e l a t i v e o f t h e B r a h m o l e a d e r , K e s h u b

Chunder Sen . T h a t h e d i d n o t h a v e p e r f e c t f a i t h i n t h e

T h e o s o p h i c m i r a c l e s w a s e v i d e n t t o m e f r o m t h e f a c t o f

h i s e x p r e s s i n g r e g r e t t h a t t h e m o v e m e n t s h o u l d b e p e r -

m i t t e d t o b e a n y t h i n g m o r e t h a n a n e t h i c a l a n d r e l i g i o u s

r e f o r m a t i o n . H e r a t h e r c o m p l a i n e d o f m y s e l f a n d o t h e r s

w h o w e r e i n t e r e s t e d o n l y i n t h e " s i g n s a n d w o n d e r s , "

b e i n g t h u s t h e m e a n s o f p r e v e n t i n g T h e o s o p h y f r o m d e -

v e l o p i n g i n t o t h e g r e a t R e f o r m e d R e l i g i o n o f I n d i a . Hew a s a n i n t e l l i g e n t m a n , a n d I r e c e i v e d f r o m h i m a c l e a r

i d e a o f t h e c a u s e s w h i c h h a d g i v e n s o - c a l l e d T h e o s o p h y i t s

s u c c e s s . While Madame Blavatsky had, in my opinion,



2 0 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

n o r e a l i n t e r e s t i n t h e m o r a l a n d r e l i g i o u s0 0

r e g e n e r a t i o n "

of India, and would I think have sympathized with my

o w n d i s l i k e o f t h e C h r i s t i a n i z i n g p r o p a g a n d a , t h e s e s c h o l -

a r l y H i n d u s w e r e d r e a m i n g o f a n i d e a l r e l i g i o n b u i l t o u t

o f t h e i r o w n h i s t o r y a n d l i t e r a t u r e . And it was an event

whose importance we western people can hardly compre-

hend when there appeared from America this company of

people who had abandoned every form of Christiani ty,

t a k e n u p t h e i r a b o d e i n I n d i a t o l e a d i n t h e w o r k o f a t

o n c e r e h a b i l i t a t i n g a n d r e v i s i n g t h e s e a n c i e n t s y s t e m s , a n d

pointed Hindus and Buddhists to their own scriptures

a n d p r o p h e t s a s f o u n t a i n s o f f a i t h a n d h o p e . They natu-

r a l l y g a i n e d a h o l d o n t h e h e a r t s o f t h e s e p e o p l e , a n d i n

a f e w y e a r s m o v e d a n d a t t r a c t e d t h e m m o r e t h a n d i d t h e

C h r i s t i a n m i s s i o n a r i e s i n a s m a n y c e n t u r i e s .

I have spoken of Dr . Hartmann of Colorado . In Co-

l o m b o t h e c h i e f p r i e s t S u m a n g a l a t o l d m e h e h a d r e -

c e i v e d f r o m ~ ° C o l o n e l " O l c o t t o f N e w Y o r k a r e q u e s t f o r

up e r m i s s i o n " t o a d m i n i s t e r pansala t o Dr . Hartmann,

and had granted it . P a n s a l a m e a n s t h e f i v e p r e c e p t s o f

Buddhism, and their administration to any individual

m e a n s h i s i n i t i a t i o n i n t o t h e h i g h e r g r a d e o f B u d d h i s m .

T h i s c er e m o n y ha d b e e n p e r f o r me d i n M ad r a s b y " C o l o -

n e l " O l c o t t . I n t h e m i d s t o f a c i r c l e o f d e v o u t o r i e n -

t a l p e o p l e s t o o d t h e s e t w o A m e r i c a n s . T h e o n e r e p e a t e d ,

t h e o t h e r r e s p o n d e d t o , t h e a n c i e n t a n d s o l e m n f o r -

mula, " I take refuge in Buddha ! I t a k e r e f u g e i n r e -

l i g i o n ! I take refuge in truth ! " Before the assembly

Dr. Hartmann pledged his honour to obser ve the fivep r e c e p t s , - t o a b s t a i n f r o m t h e f t ; t o a b s t a i n f r o m l y i n g ;

t o a b s t a i n f r o m t a k i n g l i f e ; t o a b s t a i n f r o m i n t o x i c a t i n g

d r i n k s ; to abstain from adultery . The spectacle, two

A m e r i c a n s a b a n d o n i n g C h r i s t i a n i t y a n d a d o p t i n g a n



MME . BLAVATSKY'S GLAMOUR " 9 0 5

o r i e n t a l r e l i g i o n , t o u c h e d t h e H i n d u i m a g i n a t i o n . I t w a s

u n i q u e , e v e n a m o n g t h e a n o m a l i e s o f t h e o l o g i c a l h i s t o r y .

B u t M m e . B l a v a t s k y w a s n o t a w o m a n o f i m a g i n a t i o n ,

s h e w a s a w o m a n o f t h e w o r l d . I t i s s a i d t h a t s h e r a n

a w a y f r o m h e r R u s s i a n h o m e i n g i r l h o o d t o t r a v e l w i t h a

c i r c u s , a n d s h e a p p e a r e d t o m e a s a n a c t r e s s t r a i n e d b y

m a n y a d v e n t u r e s t o a m o r b i d d e s i r e t o s w a y m e n . W i t h-

o u t b e a u t y , s h e m a d e t h e m o s t o f h e r w i t , a n d h a d m a n -

a g e d t o g e t a f e w a b l e m e n t o c o m m i t t h e m s e l v e s t o h e r

m a g i c a l p r e t e n s i o n s . P o s s i b l y s h e p o s s e s s e d s o m e o f t h e

p o w e r n o w c a l l e d " h y p n o t i c . " W h e n I m e t M r s . Anne

B e s a n t , w h o m I h a d s o l o n g k n o w n a s a f r e e t h i n k e r , a f t e r

h e r c o n v e r s i o n t o T h e o s o p h y , I t o l d h e r w h a t M m e . B l a v a t -

s k y h a d s a i d t o m e a b o u t i t s b e i n g a l l " glamour . " M r s .

B e s a n t s a i d t h a t " g l a m o u r " i m p l i e d a g o o d d e a l ; t o m a k e

o n e s e e a p e r s o n i n o n e ' s r o o m , e v e n i f t h e r e w a s n o p e r s o n

t h e r e , w a s a m a r v e l l o u s p o w e r . B u t s h e t h o u g h t I m u s t

h a v e b e e n m i s t a k e n i n t h i n k i n g m a d a m e h a d a d d e d ' 1 t h a t

i s t h e w h o l e o f i t . "

Mme . B l a v a t s k y ' s f a u l t a s a t h a u m a t u r g i s t w a s t o o

g r e a t e a g e r n e s s t o c a p t u r e d i s t i n g u i s h e d p e o p l e . I was

t o l d a t B o m b a y t h a t s h e h a d t o g i v e u p h e r r e s i d e n c e

t h e r e b y t h e e x p o s u r e o f h e r e f f o r t t o d e c e i v e t h e p r i n c e

( n o w E d w a r d V I I ) , a n d a d a r i n g a t t e m p t a t f r a u d i n 1 8 8 2

n o d o u b t l e d t o h e r l e a v i n g C a l c u t t a . A b o u t t h i s l a t t e r

a f f a i r I w a s a b l e t o a s c e r t a i n t h e f a c t s .

I h a d b r o u g h t a l e t t e r o f i n t r o d u c t i o n f r o m a l e a d i n g

b a r r i s t e r i n L o n d o n , C h a r l e s C . M a c r a e , t o a n e m i n e n t

E n g l i s h o f f i c i a l i n C a l c u t t a , C o m m i s s i o n e r B r o u g h t o n ,

w h o w i t h h i s w i f e , a l a d y d i s t i n g u i s h e d i n s o c i e t y , w e r e

p e r s o n s w h o m M m e . B l a v a t s k y n a t u r a l l y d e s i r e d t o h a v e

i n h e r t r a i n . M r . B r o u g h t o n t o l d m e t h e s t o r y o f t h e

co l l u s i o n b e t w e e n Mm e . B l a v a t s k y a n d M r . E g l i n t o n



906 MY PILGRIMAGE

( a L o n d o n « m e d i u m , " w h o h a d b e e n h o l d i n g s e a n c e s i n

C a l c u t t a ) t o i m p o s e o n h i s w i f e a n d h i m s e l f . T h e f a c t s

w e r e s u b s e q u e n t l y w r i t t e n f o r m e i n d e t a i l b y h i m a n d a r e

c u r i o u s e n o u g h t o b e p l a c e d o n r e c o r d i n t h e B l a v a t s k y

a n n a l s .

3 O UT R A M S T ., CALCUTTA .

M Y DE A R S I R , - I a m h a p p y t o t e l l y o u a l l I k n o w

a b o u t t h e l e t t e r s a i d t o h a v e b e e n b r o u g h t f r o m t h e

Vega, and as some of the p assengers are now here I

s h o w e d y o u r l e t t e r t o t h e m , a n d e n c l o s e t h e i r r e s p e c t i v e

a c c o u n t s . M y w i f e i s i n E u r o p e , a n d m a y w r i t e t o y o u

h e r s e l f . I h a v e s e n t t h e s e l e t t e r s t o h e r , w i t h y o u r o w n .

W i t h r e g a r d t o m y o w n k n o w l e d g e o f t h e t r a n s a c t i o n , I

w a s i n C a l c u t t a , a n d a f r i e n d w a s s t a y i n g w i t h m e , -

Mr. H . B l a n f o r d , a F e l l o w o f t h e R o y a l S o c i e t y a n d h e a d

o f t h e M e t e o r o l o g i c a l D e p a r t m e n t , a p r a c t i c a l m a n , n o t

I t h i n k d i s p o s e d t o j u d g e w r o n g l y o n e w a y o r t h e o t h e r .

W e b o t h k n o w M r s . G o r d o n , t h e l a d y t o w h o m M r . E g l i n -

t o n w r o t e , o r s a y s h e w r o t e , f r o m t h e V e g a w h i l e a t s e a ,

a n d I a m o n f r i e n d l y t e r m s w i t h h e r , a s i s M r . B l a n -

f o r d , t o t h e b e s t o f m y b e l i e f . S h e c a l l e d a t m y h o u s e a

d a y o r t w o a f t e r t h e V e g a h a d l e f t C o l o m b o , a n d p r o -

d u c e d a l e t t e r , a n e n v e l o p e , a n d t w o o r t h r e e c a r d s .

T h e l e t t e r w a s f r o m M r . E g l i n t o n ; i t w a s n o t i n t h e e n -

v e l o p e , b u t w a s a t t a c h e d t o i t b y a s t r i n g i n t h e c o r n e r ,

w h i c h w a s a l s o p a s s e d t h r o u g h t h e c o r n e r s o f t h e c a r d s .

T h e s e c a r d s h a d w r i t i n g u p o n t h e m , w h i c h w e w e r e t o l d

was the writing of Mme . B l a v a t s k y , t h e n a t P o o n a ; t h e

w r i t i n g o n t h e c a r d s r e f e r r e d t o

t h e c o n t e n t s o f t h e l e t t e r . T h e

e n v e l o p e h a d t h r e e c r o s s e s u p o n

i t i n t h e p o s i t i o n s I h a v e i n d i -

c a t e d . M r s . G o r d o n s t a t e d t h a t t h e s e l e t t e r s h a d b e e n



MR. BROUGHTON'S LETTER 207

b r o u g h t t o h e r t h e d a y b e f o r e b y w h a t a r e c a l l e d " a s t r a l "

m e a n s , h a v i n g b e e n c o n v e y e d f r o m t h e V e g a - t h e n o n t h e

way from Colombo to Aden -first to Poona, and then

from Poona to her residence in Hourah, a subu rb of

C a l c u t t a . I h a v e n o t t h e s l i g h t e s t d o u b t t h a t M r s . G o r d o n

f i r m l y b e l i e v e d t h i s , a n d I a m u n d e r t h e i m p r e s s i o n t h a t

s h e b e l i e v e s i t s t i l l , b u t I h a v e n o t h a d t h e p l e a s u r e o f

m e e t i n g h e r f o r s o m e t i m e . M r . B l a n f o r d a n d I , h o w e v e r ,

v e n t u r e d t o a s k a f e w g e n t l e m e n a s t o t h e c i r c u m s t a n c e s

u n d e r w h i c h t h e l e t t e r s m a d e t h e i r a p p e a r a n c e a t H o u r a h ,

a n d t h e r e p l i e s l e d u s t o f o r m a n o p i n i o n t h a t t h e l a d y

m i g h t h a v e b e e n i m p o s e d u p o n .

T h e c i r c u m s t a n c e s , w h i c h w e r e , I b e l i e v e , c o n s i d e r e d t o

a m o u n t t o s t r o n g p r o o f i n f a v o u r o f t h e " a s t r a l " t h e o r y ,

w e r e p u b l i s h e d i n a p a p e r c a l l e d t h e " P s y c h i c N o t e s , "

w h i c h f o r a s h o r t p e r i o d i n t h a t y e a r h a d b e e n p u b l i s h e d ,

I t h i n k w e e k l y , i n C a l c u t t a .

I w r o t e t o m y w i f e , a n d s e n t t h i s a c c o u n t , s u b s t a n -

t i a l l y a s I h a v e n o w s t a t e d i t , t o h e r ; a n d s h e r e p l i e d

t h a t M r . E g l i n t o n h a d b r o u g h t a l e t t e r t o h e r t o b e

m a r k e d , t h a t i t h a d a c r o s s u p o n i t , t h a t s h e w a s a s k e d

t o m a r k a n o t h e r o r o t h e r s , a n d t h a t s h e d i d s o , c r o s s i n g

t h e f i r s t c r o s s i n t h i s m a n n e r .

I w i l l a d d t h a t w h e n m y w i f e

l e f t C a l c u t t a I a c c o m p a n i e d h e r ,

w i t h s o m e o t h e r p a s s e n g e r s , i n

a s t e a m l a u n c h , a n d s h e e m b a r k e d o n b o a r d t h e V e g a a t

D i a m o n d H a r b o u r o r t h e r e a b o u t s , s o m e h o u r s ' r u n f r o m

C a l c u t t a. I w a s t h e b e a r e r o f a l e t t e r t o M r

. E g l i n t o n .

I t w a s g i v e n t o m e f o r h i m b y M r s . G o r d o n , I t h i n k , b u t

I w o n ' t b e p o s i t i v e , a n d o f c o u r s e I d o n o t k n o w b y

w h o m i t w a s w r i t t e n . I g a v e i t t o M r . E g l i n t o n , w h o w a s

p l a y i n g a r u b b e r i n t h e s m o k i n g - r o o m w h e n w e a r r i v e d



208 MY PILGRIMAGE

a t t h e s h i p . I t o o k l e a v e o f h i m , a n d h a v e n e v e r s e e n

h i m s i n c e . I h a d k n o w n M r . E g l i n t o n ; he was in the

h a b i t , w h e n i n C a l c u t t a , o f g i v i n g e x h i b i t i o n s o f h i s

p o w e r s a t p r i v a t e h o u s e s f o r a f e e . H e g e n e r a l l y d i n e d

a t t h e h o u s e , a n d t h e c o m p a n y a f t e r w a r d s a d j o u r n e d t o

a d a r k e n e d r o o m , w h e r e m u s i c a l - b o x e s p l a y e d a n d t a m -

b o u r i n e s w e r e t h u m p e d b y , a s i t w a s s a i d , m y s t e r i o u s

a g e n c i e s . H e c a m e t o o u r h o u s e i n t h i s w a y , b u t n o t h i n g

o c c u r r e d . I t h i n k l i e c o n s i d e r e d i t a f a i l u r e .

Mr. S i n n e t t w e d o n o t k n o w .

I a m , y o u r s f a i t h f u l l y ,

L. P . DE L V E S B R O UG H T O N .

M r s . B r o u g h t o n s a y s i n h e r l e t t e r ( O c t o b e r 2 4 , 1 8 85 )

" When Mr. E g l i n t o n b r o u g h t m e t h e e n v e l o p e i t h a d

o n e c r o s s u p o n i t , a n d I s a i d i n a v a g u e w a y , ` L e t m e s e e ,

h o w s h a l l I m a r k i t ? ' w h e r e u p o n M r . E g l i n t o n p r o m p t l y

p r o p o s e d I s h o u l d m a k e a s e c o n d c r o s s + + s o ,

w h i c h n a t u r a l l y d e c i d e d m e n o t t o d o s o , a n d n o d o u b t

i n t h i s c o n s i s t e d ` t h e b a d b e h a v i o u r ' M r . S i n n e t t s p o k e

t o y o u o f . A s M r . E g l i n t o n f o u n d o c c a s i o n t o o p e n t h e

e n v e l o p e I h a d m a r k e d , i t s e e m s s i n g u l a r h e s h o u l d n o t

h a v e f o u n d i t w o r t h w h i l e t o t e l l m e b e h a d d o n e s o . Hem a d e a n u n f o r t u n a t e m i s t a k e i n r e f e r r i n g t h e m a t t e r t o

m e a t a l l , a s h e d i d n o t f i n d m e t h e p l i a b l e b e i n g h e e x -

p e c t e d ! "

M r s . B r o u g h t o n w a s t r a v e l l i n g t o L o n d o n w i t h f r i e n d s ,-Mr. a n d M r s . W . K . E d d i s a n d M r . A . W i l s o n . L e t t e r s

f r o m t h e s e g e n t l e m e n w e r e e n c l o s e d t o m e b y t h e B r o u g h -

t o n s . T h e y w e r e e l i c i t e d b y m y r e p o r t t o t h e m o f a n

explanation sent me by my friend Mrs . C a r o l i n e G o r -

d o n , a d e v o u t S p i r i t u a l i s t , w h o b e f o r e h e r h u s b a n d ( a n

o f f i c e r ) w a s t r a n s f e r r e d t o C a l c u t t a a t t e n d e d m y c h a p e l



EGLINTON'S ATTEMPTED FRAUD 909

i n L o n d o n . S h e h a d l e a r n e d f r o m M r . E g l i n t o n t h a t

a f t e r t h e e n v e l o p e w a s m a r k e d b y M r s . B r o u g h t o n , h e c o n -

c l u d e d t o e n c l o s e a n o t e t o M m e . B l a v a t s k y i n i t , a n d p u t

t h e c o n t e n t s i n t o a n e w e n v e l o p e ; b u t i t w a s l a t e ( w h y

t h e h a s t e ? ) a n d h e c o u l d n o t f i n d M r s . B r o u g h t o n , s o h e

m a r k e d t h e e n v e l o p e h i m s e l f ! O f a l l t h i s , h o w e v e r , n o t

a w o r d w a s h e a r d f r o m E g l i n t o n d u r i n g t h e r e s t o f t h e

v o y a g e , - n o t e v e n w h e n h e w a s h e l d u p t o r i d i c u l e o n

t h e V e g a , w h e r e a l e t t e r w a s b r o u g h t o n b o a r d a t G r a v e s -

e n d f r o m M r . B r o u g h t o n s a y i n g t h a t t h e e n v e l o p e h a d

t h r e e c r o s s e s ; f o r t h e m a t t e r h a d b e e n t h e t a l k o f a l l

t h e p a s s e n g e r s . T h a t E g l i n t o n h a d n o t i n a n y m a r k i m -

i t a t e d M r s . B r o u g h t o n ' s a s t e r i s k M r s . G o r d o n ( s i n c e r e a s

s h e w a s c r e d u l o u s ) a s c r i b e d t o h i s s t r a n g e i g n o r a n c e o f

t e s t - c o n d i t i o n s . E g l i n t o n w a s n o i d i o t . L i k e M m e . B l a -

v a t s k y h e w a s a n a c t o r , a n d I w a s t o l d t h a t i n C a l c u t t a

t h e y a f f e c t e d c o n t e m p t o f e a c h o t h e r ' s p r e t e n s i o n s .

-My w i f e , " w r i t e s Mr . E d d i s , " w a s s i t t i n g b y M r s .

B r o u g h t o n w h e n E g l i n t o n r e a d t o h e r t h e l e t t e r h e w a s

g o i n g t o s e n d b y a s t r a l m e a n s . B o t h n o t i c e d a t t h e t i m e

t h a t t h e r e w a s n o t o n e w o r d i n t h e l e t t e r w h i c h m i g h t

n o t h a v e b e e n w r i t t e n i n C a l c u t t a b e f o r e t h e s t e a m e r

s t a r t e d , - n o t a s i n g l e a l l u s i o n t o a n y t h i n g w h i c h h a d

o c c u r r e d s i n c e w e l e f t C o l o m b o , w h i c h w o u l d h a v e p u t

s u s p i c i o n o u t o f t h e q u e s t i o n . " T h e s e l a d i e s w e r e t o o

w i t t y t o p o i n t o u t t o t h e S p i r i t u a l i s t t h i s d e f e c t i n h i s

l e t t e r , a n d a l l o w e d h i m t o g o o n d i g g i n g t h e p i t i n t o

w h i c h h e a n d M m e . B l a v a t s k y f e l l .

One evening at a dinner company at the Salisbury

Hotel, London, where Mr . S i n n e t t w a s p r e s e n t , I a s k e d

h i m h o w h e c o u l d e x p l a i n t h a t B l a v a t s k y - B r o u g h t o n i n c i -

d e n t . H e a n s w e r e d , " I t i s a l o n g s t o r y , b u t I c a n s a y

t h i s m u c h : Mrs . B r o u g h t o n b e h a v e d v e r y b a d l y . "



210 MY PILGRIMAGE

O n e d a y w h e n I w a s a t t h e h o u s e o f G e n e r a l P i t t R i v e r s

in London " C o l o n e l " O l c o t t c a l l e d . T h e H o n . M r s . P i t t

R i v e r s , o n e o f w h o s e s o n s b a d b e e n a b e l i e v e r i n T h e o s o -

p h y , r e p e a t e d t h e s t o r y o f t h e a t t e m p t e d f r a u d o n t h e

Broughtons and asked him to explain it . " C o l o n e l "

O l c o t t a n s w e r e d , " Y o u r q u e s t i o n i m p l i e s t h e p o s s i b i l i t y

o f a c o l l u s i o n b e t w e e n t h e T h e o s o p h i s t s o f I n d i a a n d M r .

E g l i n t o n , a n d b e f o r e s u c h a s u g g e s t i o n I a m d u m b . " I t

w a s t h e b e s t - i n d e e d , t h e o n l y - r e p l y t h a t c o u l d b e

m a d e , a n d M r s . P i t t R i v e r s t r i e d i n v a i n t o g e t a n y o t h e r .

B u t t h e e v a s i o n s o f S i n n e t t a n d O l c o t t p r o v e t h e t r u t h o f

w h a t M m e . B l a v a t s k y s a i d i n a l e t t e r t o M m e . C o u l o m b ,

w h e n t h e l a t t e r r e s o l v e d t o e x p o s e h e r t r i c k s , " God him-

s e l f c a n n o t t a k e o u t o f m y h a n d t h o s e w h o b e l i e v e i n m e . "

T h a t M m e . B l a v a t s k y w i t h o u t b e a u t y o r w e a l t h s h o u l d

b e a b l e t o b i n d m e n t o h e r p r o v e s t h a t s h e p o s s e s s e d s o m e

o f t h o s e " o c c u l t " q u a l i t i e s i n w h i c h L o r d B a c o n f i n d s

t h e s e c r e t o f s u c c e s s . I d o n o t b e l i e v e t h a t s h e w a s c h a r -

a c t e r i s t i c a l l y c r a f t y o r s h r e w d . Al t h o u g h s h e h a d e x-

h i b i t e d a r t i n h e r c o n f e s s i o n t o m e , s h e a f t e r w a r d s m a d e

a b l u n d e r a b o u t i t b y g e t t i n g a p r e m a t u r e e x p l a n a t i o n

p r i n t e d i i i E n g l a n d . I h a d n o t r e p o r t e d o r u s e d w h a t s h e

s a i d , b u t o n l y h a d i t u n d e r c o n s i d e r a t i o n w h e n I s a w i t

s t a t e d i n s o m e p a p e r , o n h e r a u t h o r i t y , t h a t t h e a n s w e r

s h e g a v e m e w a s w h a t s h e w a s d i r e c t e d b y h e r " G u r u "

t o g i v e ! S h e w a s i m p r u d e n t a l s o i n a l l o w i n g s o m e o f

t h e e a r l i e r s i g n a t u r e s o f t h e c h i e f M a h a t m a , a s " Kot-

t h u m e , " t o r e m a i n i n c i r c u l a t i o n a f t e r t h e c h a n g e t o

" K o o t h o o m i . " O n e o f h e r y o u n g d i s c i p l e s , M o b i n i , e x -

h i b i t e d a s o r t o f b o o k - m a r k ( " K o t t h u m e " ) o n c e g i v e n

h i m b y M m e . B l a v a t s k y i n a c o m p a n y a t m y h o u s e i n

B e d f o r d P a r k , L o n d o n , a n d u n w i t t i n g l y c o n f i r m e d t h e

b e l i e f t h a t t h e n a m e w a s m a d e u p o f O l c o t t - H u m e ; t h e



MME . COULOMB'S REVELATIONS 2ll

c h a n g e t o " K o o t h o o m i " h a v i n g b e e n m a d e a s a b e t t e r

d i s g u i s e o f t h e c o m b i n a t i o n . ( S i r W i l l i a m H u n t e r t o l d m e

i n C a l c u t t a t h a t i n e i t h e r f o r m t h e n a m e i s o u t s i d e a l l

a n a l o g i e s o f a n y l a n g u a g e e v e r k n o w n i n I n d i a . )

I r e p e a t m y c o n v i c t i o n t h a t M m e . B l a v a t s k y ' s i m p o s -

t u r e s w e r e n o t f o r t h e p u r p o s e o f g e t t i n g m o n e y . A t

t i m e s s h e l a v i s h e d a l l t h e m o n e y s h e h a d o n s o m e s c h e m e

t o a m a z e a d i s t i n g u i s h e d p e r s o n o r s e c u r e a n i n f l u e n t i a l

f o l l o w e r .

T h e s i l e n t w o m a n a t t h e A d y a r t a b l e w a s M m e . C o u -

l o m b , w h o s o o n a f t e r m a d e t h e f a t a l r e v e l a t i o n s c o n c e r n -

i n g M m e . B l a v a t s k y ' s t r i c k s . The French woman, I am

n o w c e r t a i n , w a s r e s o l v e d t h a t i f a n y a t t e m p t t o i m p o s e

on me were made she would warn me . She had already

c e a s e d t o b e a n a s s i s t a n t , a n d i t i s p o s s i b l e t h a t M m e .

B l a v a t s k y ' s e x p l a n a t i o n t o m e , t h a t h e r m y s t e r i o u s f a m i l -

i a r s h a d j u s t . f o r b i d d e n f u r t h e r c o r r e s p o n d e n c e t h r o u g h

t h e m i r a c u l o u s c a b i n e t , w a s d u e t o M m e . C o u l o m b ' s w i t h -

d r a w a l o f h e r c o n n i v a n c e . T h e a w f u l c o n f l i c t w a s e v e n

t h e n g o i n g o n i n s e c r e t , a n d I d i d n o t s u s p e c t t h e e x t e n t

o f M m e . B l a v a t s k y ' s h i s t r i o n i c p o w e r s u n t i l t h e p u b l i -

c a t i o n o f h e r l e t t e r s t o h e r p e n i t e n t a c c o m p l i c e r e v e a l e d

t h a t d u r i n g a l l t h a t t i m e w h e n s h e w a s s o s e r e n e l y p r e -

s i d i n g a t h e r t a b l e , a n d c o n v e r s i n g w i t h m e s o m e r r i l y ,

s h e w a s j u s t o v e r a r u m b l i n g v o l c a n o t h r e a t e n i n g e v e r y

i n s t a n t t o b u r s t o u t w i t h r u i n t o h e r w h o l e e m p i r e i n

I n d i a . H o w e v e r , i t i s m o r e p r o b a b l e t h a t M m e . B l a v a t s k y

w o u l d n o t i n a n y c a s e h a v e a t t e m p t e d t o c o n v e r t m e ; s h e

m u s t h a v e h e a r d f r o m h e r L o n d o n f r i e n d s t h a t I w a s s o

e x a c t i n g i n e v i d e n c e , a b o u t a l l s u c h w o n d e r s , a s t o b e

a h o p e l e s s c a s e . W h a t s h e r e a l l y w i s h e d w a s , I t h i n k ,

t o f o r e s t a l l t h e u g l y r e p o r t s a b o u t h e r t h a t I w a s l i k e l y

t o h e a r i n C a l c u t t a a n d B o m b a y , a n d b y h e r p e r s o n a l



A REPULSIVE SERMON 91 8

p e o p l e h a d n o m e a n s a t a l l o f r e c o v e r i n g t h e i r m o n e y o r

o f l i v i n g e x c e p t b y r e c e i v i n g s u p p o r t a t t h e T h e o s o p h i c

h e a d q u a r t e r s . Mme. Coulomb was a believer in super-

n a t u r a l i s m ; s h e n a i v e l y s a y s t h a t s h e d i d n o t m i n d v e r y

m u c h t h e d e c e p t i o n s w o r k e d o n H i n d u s b e c a u s e t h e y

a l r e a d y b e l i e v e d such m i r a c l e s , b u t w h e n t h e f r a u d s b e g a n

t o i m p o s e o n English p e o p l e s h e c o u l d n o t s t a n d i t .' The

s i t u a t i o n w a s t h u s r e a l l y u n i q u e . I n o r d e r t o r e v e a l t h e

whole thing and publish all the letters that Mme . B l a -

vatsky bad written to her, poor Mme . C o u l o m b h a d t o

c o n f e s s t h a t s h e h a d b e e n a n a c c o m p l i c e , a n d a l s o l o s e a l l

the money that she and her husband had invested in the

concern . S h e w a s t h u s a s o r t o f m a r t y r . She was reduced

to pauperism, for I do not believe that the missionary

m a g a z i n e w h i c h p u b l i s h e d t h e l e t t e r s p a i d h e r e v e n a p i t -

t a n c e f o r t h e m ; and what became of her I know not .

On o u r w a y f r o m M a d r a s t o C a l c u t t a a S u n d a y m o r n -

i n g w a s o c c u p i e d b y M r . M u l l e r o f B r i s t o l , w h o b a d g a i n e d

c e l e b r i t y b y c a r r y i n g o n a s o r t o f r e l i g i o u s h o s p i t a l t h e r e

which he claimed was supported by prayer alone . Miss

Mary Carpenter and Miss Frances Power Cobbe had dis-

covered the imposture of that claim, which indeed all

i n t e l l i g e n t p e o p l e w e l l k n e w , t h e s c a n d a l b e i n g t h a t s o

m a n y s u b s c r i b e r s l e n t t h e m s e l v e s t o t h e p i o u s f r a u d .

Muller, whom I had some curiosity to see, preached the

m o s t r e p u l s i v e s e r m o n t h a t I e v e r h e a r d . His theme was

t h e b l e s s i n g o f t h o s e w h o s e " s i n i s c o v e r e d " (Ps . x x x i i , 1 ) ,

1 I n h e r l e t t e r t o m e M m e . C o u l o m b b i t t e r l y c o m p l a i n s o f a g e n t l e m a n

w h o r e p a i d h e r e f f o r t t o s a v e h i m f r o m a d e c e p t i o n b y a s s i s t i n g i n h e r

ruin . " I d o n o t t h i n k t h a t e v e r s i n c e t h e w o r l d b e g a n t h e r e h a s b e e n a n

impostor like Madame Blavatsky . I a m n o t a s h a m e d t o b e c a l l e d a T h e -

o s o p h i s t , a n d w o u l d I w e r e a b l e t o d e v o t e m y t i m e t o i t , b u t w h a t I w o u l d

l i k e v e r y m u c h w o u l d b e t o t e a r o u t o f m y l i f e t h e p a g e t h a t e o n c e r n s m y

l i f e w i t h M a d a m e B l a v a t s k y . "




a n d h e a s s e r t e d t h a t i f a m a n o r w o m a n w e r e o n l y b e l i e v -

e r s i n t h e b l o o d o f C h r i s t , t h e A l m i g h t y d i d n o t s e e t h e i r

s i n s a t a l l . W h a t e v e r c r i m e s o r v i l l a i n i e s t h e y h a d d o n e ,

t h e y w e r e e n t i r e l y h i d d e n u n d e r t h e n a m e o f C h r i s t , a n d

t h e a l l - s e e i n g e y e w o u l d n e v e r l o o k b e y o n d t h a t c o v e r i n g .

A f t e r t h i s s e r m o n I w a s c o n v e r s i n g o n d e c k w i t h a n u m -

b e r o f e d u c a t e d H i n d u g e n t l e m e n w h o w e r e a s t o u n d e d

t h a t a n y p r e a c h e r c o u l d t a l k i n t h a t w a y . T h e r e w e r e

t h r e e o r f o u r o f t h e s e e d u c a t e d H i n d u s , a n d t h e y w e r e

u n a n i m o u s i n t h e o p i n i o n t h a t i f a n y s u c h d o c t r i n e a s

t h a t w e r e r e a l l y t o g e t i n t o t he m i n d a n d h e a r t o f a n y

l a r g e n u m b e r o f H i n d u s , t h e a m o u n t o f c r i m e t h a t w o u l d

e n s u e w o u l d b e u n i m a g i n a b l e . I t o l d t h e m t h a t t h e f r u i t s

o f s u c h p r e a c h i n g w e r e a l r e a d y v i s i b l e i n E n g l a n d , b u t

t h a t f o r t u n a t e l y v e r y f e w p r e a c h e rs c o u l d b e f o u n d e v e n

i n t h e m o s t i g n o r a n t c o n v e n t i c l e s t o b e l i e v e s u c h s t u f f , a n d

t h a t t h e m a s s e s o f E n g l i s h a n d A m e r i c a n p e o p l e g o t t h e i r

m o r a l s m a i n l y f r o m t h e l a w c o u r t s .

T o t h o s e w h o l i k e m y s e l f d e s i r e t o p r e s e r v e a n d c o n -

t i n u e a l l t h e v a r i e t i e s o f r e l i g i o n i n t h e i r o w n s t r u c t u r a l

d e v e l o p m e n t , i t i s a s a t i s f a c t i o n t o r e a l i z e t h e e x t e n t t o

w h i c h t h e l i t e r a l i s m o f m i s s i o n a r i e s p r e v e n t s t h e i r d o i n g

m u c h r e a l h a r m .



C H A P T E R X I

C a l c u t t a - e s h u b C h u n d e r S e n a n d h i s d e a t h - J o g e n d r a C h a n d r a G h o s h

a n d P o s i t i v i s m -M o z o o m d a r a n d D r . T y n d a l l -E x p o s i t i o n -H o l y

p i c t u r e s - M i r a c l e p l a y s a n d H i n d u t h e a t r e s - K a l i g h a t f e s t i v a l -S i r

W i l l i a m H u n t e r - A l e a r n e d f a k i r - K a l i - S a l v a t i o n A r m y - E n t e r -

t a i n m e n t b y P r i n c e F u r r o k S h a h - C h r i s t i a n e r r o r s a b o u t " i d o l s " - A

d r e a m i n t e r v i e w w i t h K a l i .

IR E A C H E D C a l c u t t a j u s t i n t i m e t o b e p r e s e n t a t t h e

b a n q u e t i n c e l e b r a t i o n o f t h e o n e h u n d r e d t h a n n i v e r -

s a r y o f t h e R o y a l A s i a t i c S o c i e t y o f B e n g a l . I t s p r e s i d e n t ,

t h e v i c e r o y ( M a r q u i s o f R i p o n ) , w a s a C a t h o l i c . T h e

C a t h o l i c s o f t e n s e c u r e f r a t e r n a l r e l a t i o n s w i t h p e o p l e s o f

d a r k c o m p l e x i o n w h e r e P r o t e s t a n t s f a i l . T h e v i c e r o y h a d

a l r e a d y s h o w n t h e C a t h o l i c s p i r i t b y a d i s p o s i t i o n t o

i n c l u d e n a t i v e g e n t l e m e n f u r t h e r i n t h e a f f a i r s o f I n d i a ,

a n d w a s e n t e r t a i n i n g m i x e d c o l o u r s a t t h e v i c e - r e g a l t a b l e .

H e m a d e a n e x c e l l e n t s p e e c h , a s a l s o d i d t h e H o n . Mr .

I l b e r t a n d D r . ( a f t e r w a r d s S i r ) W i l l i a m W . H u n t e r .

On m y w a y f r o m M a d r a s I t r a v e l l e d w i t h t h e B r a h m o

m i n i s t e r , P r o t a p C h u n d e r M o z o o m d a r , w h o t o l d m e t h a t

I would find their chief, Kesh ub Chunder Sen, much

e x p a n d e d i n t e l l e c t u a l l y s i n c e h e w a s i n L o n d o n . But on

a r r i v a l a t t h e w h a r f w e l e a r n e d t h a t S e n w a s d e a d . His

f o l l o w e r s g a v e v e n t t o t h e i r g r i e f i n u t t e r a n c e s r a t h e r

s t a r t l i n g . A d i s c i p l e i n " N e w D i s p e n s a t i o n " w r o t e t h a t

t h e i r " m a s t e r " h a d b e e n k i l l e d b y " t h e p o i s o n o u s d a r t s

o f u n b e l i e f , i n d i f f e r e n c e , a n d d i s o b e d i e n c e which were

r e p e a t e d l y l e v e l l e d a g a i n s t h i m . " " T h u s t h e l i g h t t h a t

w a s s h i n i n g i n d a r k n e s s , a n d t h e d a r k n e s s k n e w i t n o t ,

w a s s u d d e n l y e x t i n g u i s h e d ; t h u s t h e S o n o f G o d b a d b e e n



216 MY PILGRIMAGE

c r u c i f i e d a s e c o n d t i m e , t h o u g h i n a n o v e l f a s h i o n , b u t n o

l e s s c r u e l a n d c o r r u p t t h a n t h e f i r s t . " " H av e we c al le d

o u r M a s t e r t h e S o n o f G o d ? Yes . He came first to

s h o w u s t h e F a t h e r , a n d n o w h e c a m e a g a i n t o s h o w u s

the Mother . " A l l t h i s s h o w s t h a t t h e m o v e m e n t o f S e n

h a d m i n g l e d w i t h t h e H i n d u i s m , t o w a r d w h i c h i t h a d r e -

l a p s e d , C h r i s t i a n m o d e s o f t h o u g h t a n d e x p r e s s i o n . On e

w h o k n e w h i m i n t i m a t e l y d e c l a r e d t o m e t h a t h i s d e a t h

w a s a n u n c o n s c i o u s s u i c i d e ; h e w a s k i l l e d b y Y o g a . T h i s

i d e a o f s p i r i t u a l s a n c t i f i c a t i o n a n d a b s o r p t i o n , t a k i n g t h e

f o r m o f e c s t a t i c a u s t e r i t i e s , r e d u c i n g t h e f o o d n e c e s s a r y t o

n o u r i s h h i s l a r g e f r a m e a n d s u s t a i n h i s l a b o u r s , r e s u l t e d

i n e l e p h a n t i a s i s . M r . D a l l , t h e A m e r i c a n U n i t a r i a n m i s -

s i o n a r y i n C a l c u t t a , w h o l o v e d S e n , t o l d m e t h a t t h e s c e n e

a t h i s d e a t h w a s v e r y p a i n f u l . When he (Dall) entered

t h e r o o m a d e v o t e e s a t a t h i s h e a d c r y i n g i n a m o u r n f u l

v o i c e , ~ ~ H a r i , H a r i ! " [ n a m e o f C h a i t a n y a ' s 1 1 S a l v a t i o n

Army" god centuries ago] . H i s s o n , w e e p i n g c o n t i n u -

a l l y , c a l l e d " B a b a , B a b a ! " S e n ' s m o t h e r a s k e d m o u r n -

f u l l y , " W h a t h a v e I d o n e , t h a t t h o u s h o u l d s t s u f f e r s u c h

a g o n y ? " T h e d y i n g m a n s a i d t h a t t h i s a g o n y w a s t h e

a p p a r e n t l y s t e r n f a c e o f h i s D i v i n e M o t h e r , a n d t h a t h e

s a w h e r c o u n t e n a n c e f u l l o f l o v e a n d b e a u t y . A S i n g i n g

A p o s t l e s a n g i n t h e r o o m h y m n s t h a t a r e t h u s t r a n s l a t e d

I . I f p o s s i b l e , 0 b e l o v e d , r e m o v e t h i s c u p , y e t n o t

m y w i l l b u t t h i n e b e d o n e . I n t h i s d i r e d i s t r e s s , b o d y ,

m i n d , a n d l i f e a r e t h i n e . Do with them as Thou wilt

o n l y ; w i t h c l a s p e d h a n d s I a s k f o r t h i s b l e s s i n g , -Gr a n t

u n t o m e p e a c e , p a t i e n c e , a n d s t r e n g t h .

I I . I n t h e d a r k n e s s o f p e r i l , M o t h e r , w h a t a f r i g h t f u l

l o o k i s T h i n e . T h e b o d y t r e m b l e s a t t h a t t e r r i b l e c o u n t e -

nance . I n t h e m i d s t o f t h e d i s m a l g r o u n d o f c r e m a t i o n

Thou seemest to be dancing in the armour of battle .

T h y i n t e l l i g e n t f o r m , d e e p i n i t s i m m e n s i t y , a p p e a r s t i n g e d



K E S H UB C H U N D E R S E N



THE DIVINE MOTHER X17

w i t h b l o o d . B u t , M o t h e r , i n t h y i n w a r d n a t u r e t h e r e i s a

d e e p o c e a n o f l o v e t h a t s u r g e s c o n s t a n t l y . W h a t f e a r t h e n ?

M o t h e r , I h a v e f o u n d T h e e o u t , -T h o u a r t t h a t M e r c i -

f u l , I n f i n i t e O c e a n o f L o v e .

I t i s c u r i o u s t o o b s e r v e i n t h i s s e c o n d h y m n t h e p i c t u r e

o f K a l i d a n c i n g t h a t t e r r i b l e d a n c e w h i c h t h r e a t e n e d u n i -

v e r s a l d e s t r u c t i o n w h i c h S i v a , h e r l o r d , c o u l d a r r e s t o n l y

b y c a s t i n g h i m s e l f b e n e a t h h e r f e e t . O n e c a n h a r d l y

f a i l t o a p p r e c i a t e t h e p o w e r o f t h a t f a i t h w h i c h b a d f o u n d

e v e n t h a t m o s t d r e a d f u l i m a g e t h e m a s k o f t h e m a t e r n a l

s p i r i t i n t h e u n i v e r s e .

I n o n e o f t h e B r a h m o a n n u a l s w a s a n a r t i c l e o n t h e

"Divine M other " i n w h i c h t h e w r i t e r e x p r e s s e s h i s b e l i e f

t h a t B r a h m o s o u g h t t o c a l l g o d t h e i r M o t h e r i n s t e a d o f

F a t h e r . H e s a y s : " T h e C h r i s t i a n M a d o n n a a n d H i n d u

A m b a c o n v e y a l l t h a t i s h o l y ." Amba is now a general

H i n d u s t a n i w o r d f o r m o t h e r b u t i t i s a l s o t h e n a m e o f a

m y t h o l o g i c a l c h a r a c t e r . S h e w a s t h e r e v e r s e o f t h a t w h i c h

i s c o n v e y e d i n t h e t e r m m o t h e r . S h e w a s d i s a p p o i n t e d i n

h e r a f f e c t i o n s , a n d r e t i r e d t o a f o r e s t , w h e r e s h e c o n c e n -

t r a t e d a l l h e r h e a r t a n d s o u l i n t o p r a y e r f o r o n e t h i n g .

T h a t w a s t h a t s h e m i g h t o b t a i n r e v e n g e o n t h e k i n g w h o

b a d b e e n t h e m e a n s o f h e r d i s a p p o i n t m e n t . S i v a , g o d o f

d e s t r u c t i o n , h e a r d h e r ; b u t b e c o u l d n o t g r a n t h e r p r a y e r

s o l o n g a s s h e w a s a w o m a n . S h e a s c e n d e d t h e p i l e , w a s

b u r n e d , a n d b o r n a g a i n a s a m a n . I n t h a t f o r m r e v e n g e

w a s o b t a i n e d ; t h e a u t h o r o f h e r m i s f o r t u n e w a s p i e r c e d

w i t h a r r o w s . ' I t s e e m s t h u s t h a t t h e M a d o n n a c a r r i e d

t o I n d i a b y t h e e a r l y m i s s i o n a r i e s h a d g r a d u a l l y b e c o m e

a s s o c i a t e d w i t h f i e r c e K a l i , w h o i s a t l e a s t b e t t e r t h a n t h e

1 Amba m e a n s m a n g o , i n t h e d i c t i o n a r i e s , a n d i t s e e m s t h a t t h i s c u r i o u s

myth of the vindictive woman turned man was of onomatopoetic o r i g i n

ambya, t h e y o u n g m a n g o , i s f e m i n i n e ; a m , t h e f u l l - g r o w n m a n g o , i s m a s -

c u l i n e .




m a s c u l i n i z e d A m b a . I t i s a n e c e s s i t y o f T h e i s m t o s e e

E v i l a s a m a s k o f G o o d , b u t i t i s n o t p l e a s a n t t o f i n d t h e

M a d o n n a i n s u c h c o m p a n y , a s s h e i s a l m o s t t h e o n l y d i v i n e

b e i n g o f h u m a n i m a g i n a t i o n a b s o l u t e l y w i t h ou t a n y f r o w n

a t a l l .

T h e B r a h m o S o m a j w a s i n d e e d n o t v e r y d i f f e r e n t f r o m

e a r l y C h r i s t i a n U n i t a r i a n i s m . T h a t h e r e s y , h o w e v e r , w a s

d e v e l o p e d a m o n g l e a r n e d a n d a r i s t o c r a t i c p e o p l e i n E n g -

l a n d a n d A m e r i c a w h o c o u l d h a v e n o c o n c e p t i o n o f t h e

a s c e t i c i d e a s a s s o c i a t e d w i t h p i e t y a m o n g t h e p o o r H i n d u s .

I n d e e d , I w e l l r e m e m b e r t h a t a f t e r m i n i s t e r i n g t o t h e

h u m b l e M e t h o d i s t s i n M a r y l a n d I w a s r a t h e r s h o c k e d , o n

j o i n i n g t h e U n i t a r i a n s i n B o s t o n a n d C a m b r i d g e , t o f i n d

t h e m s o l u x u r i o u s . K e s h u b C h u n d e r S e n , w h e n h e c a m e

t o L o n d o n , s u f f e r e d c h i e f l y b y t h e g r a n d f e t e s g i v e n t o

h i m . H e t o l d m e t h a t a t t h e f i r s t f a s h i o n a b l e d i n n e r

p a r t y e v e r y d i s h o f m e a t s e e m e d t o h i m a c o o k e d b a b y .

I t w a s o n a c c o u n t o f t h e i n c r e a s i n g C h r i s t i a n i s m o f

K e s h u b C h u n d e r S e n t h a t t h e s e p a r a t e s o c i e t y w a s f o r m e d ,

-t h e S a n d h a r a n B r a h m o s . I h a d s o m e c o n v e r s a t i o n w i t h

t h e i r v e n e r a b l e P r e s i d e n t D e b . H e s a i d t h a t t h e s o c i e t y

w a s s i m p l y t h e i s t i c a n d r a t i o n a l i s t i c . I t w a s e n t i r e l y f r e e

f r o m c e r e m o n i e s a n d s u p e r s t i t i o n s , a n d i n s y m p a t h y w i t h

a l l p r o g r e s s i v e , s o c i a l , a n d e t h i c a l m o v e m e n t s .

I w a s i n t e r e s t e d a t f i n d i n g i n C a l c u t t a a s c h o o l o f P o s i -

t i v i s t s - s m a l l i n d e e d , b u t c o n s i s t i n g o f a b l e m e n . T h i s

s o c i e t y w a s l e d b y M r . J . S . C o t t o n o f t h e B e n g a l C i v i l

S e r v i c e , w e l l k n o w n t o t h e P o s i t i v i s t s o f L o n d o n , a n d e s -

p e c i a l l y b y a n a b l e a d d r e s s d e l i v e r e d b y h i m a t D r . C o n -

g r e v e ' s c h u r c h o n " E n g l a n d a n d I n d i a . " I h a v e r e l a t e d

i n m y A u t o b i o g r a p h y t h e f a c t s o f M r . C o t t o n ' s r o m a n t i c

m a r r i a g e a t F a r r i n g d o n , a n d T e n n y s o n ' s i n t e r e s t i n t h a t

a f f a i r . B y h i s f a v o u r I w i t n e s s e d t h e c e r e m o n y o f a d -



A P O S I T I V I S T SACRAMENT 219

m i n i s t e r i n g t o a n a t i v e g e n t l e m a n t h e P o s i t i v i s t S a c r a -

ment of Maturity . ( M a t u r i t y i s t h e a g e o f f o r t y - t w o . )

T h e g e n t l e m a n i n i t i a t e d o n t h i s o c c a s i o n w a s J o g e n d r a

C h a n d r a G h o s h . M r . G h o s h w a s a v e r y a t t r a c t i v e g e n -

t l e m a n , a s w e l l a s a s c h o l a r a n d a w r i t e r o f a b i l i t y . His

c o n t r i b u t i o n s t o t h e " C a l c u t t a R e v i e w " a n d h i s p a m p h l e t s

s h o w m a s t e r y o f t h e E n g l i s h l a n g u a g e a n d c o m p r e h e n s i v e

l e a r n i n g. T h e c e r e m o n y w a s h e l d i n a r o o m o f t h e B r i t i s h

I n d i a n A s s o c i a t i o n . S i x t e e n w e r e p r e s e n t ( a l l m e n ) , M r .

Cotton, Mr . F o r d y c e , a n d m y s e l f b e i n g t h e o n l y w h i t e

p e r s o n s . T h e o f f i c i a l p r i e s t o f t h e G h o s h f a m i l y w a s c o n -

s p i c u o u s . This venerable Brahman was alluded t o b y

Mr. C o t t o n i n h i s r e m a r k a b l e a d d r e s s o n t h i s t h e f i r s t

o c c a s i o n o f t h e k i n d t h a t h a d o c c u r r e d i n I n d i a . Mr.

C o t t o n s t a t e d t h a t h e h a d a s k e d a n d r e c e i v e d f r o m D r .

C o n g r e v e ( L o n d o n ) , h i s s u p e r i o r , p e r m i s s i o n t o a d m i n -

i s t e r t h i s r i t e . P o s i t i v i s m , h e s a i d , w a s i n s y m p a t h y w i t h

r e s p e c t f o r a n c e s t r a l i d e a s . " W e c o m e n o t t o s e n d a

s w o r d u p o n t h e e a r t h , b u t p e a c e : a n d s o t h e c e r e m o n i a l o f

t o - d a y i s n o t l i k e t h e a d m i n i s t r a t i o n o f a C h r i s t i a n s a c r a -

m e n t , w h i c h w o u l d h a v e t h e e f f e c t o f a l i e n a t i n g y o u [ M r .

G h o s h ] f r o m t h e p a s t a n d f r o m a l l t h e s u r r o u n d i n g s o f

y o u r o r d i n a r y l i f e . " A f t e r M r . G h o s h h a d e l a b o r a t e l y

s t a t e d h i s r e a s o n s f o r a d o p t i n g P o s i t i v i s m , h i s B r a h m a n

p r i e s t f e l i c i t a t e d h i m c o r d i a l l y i n a l m o s t e q u a l l y g o o d

E n g l i s h . I h a d r e a d S i r A l f r e d L y a l l ' s s t a t e m e n t o f t h e

a b s o r b i n g p o w e r o f B r a h m a n i s m , a n d i t o c c u r r e d t o m e

that a Brahman Positivism might some day arise, and

A u g u s t e C o m t e b e a n o t h e r a v a t a r o f V i s h n u . I s a i d t h i s

to the emin ent Dr . R a j e n d r a l a l a M i t r a , w h o r e m i n d e d

m e t h a t t h r e e g r e a t s y s t e m s o f t h e E a s t w e r e f u n d a m e n -

t a l l y a t h e i s t i c , -Buddhism, Jainism, and t h e S a n k y a

p h i l o s o p h y . T h e b e a u t i f u l Jain Temple in Calcutta,



220 MY PILGRIMAGE

whose l o r di s a

w i d e - a w a k e B u d d h a , i s a t t e n d e d b y

B r a h m a n s , o n e o f w h o m , w h o s h o w e d m e t h r o u g h i t ,

s t o p p e d t o s a y i n i t h i s p r a y e r s . I n a n s w e r t o m y i n -

q u i r y h e s a i d , " I c a n s a y m y p r a y e r s a n y w h e r e . " 1

T h e B r a h m a n f a m i l y p r i e s t s a r e l a r g e l y o c c u p i e d i n

p e r f o r m i n g c e r e m o n i e s a n d i n v o c a t i o n s o v e r t h e f o o d , e t c . ,

o f t h o s e w e a l t h y e n o u g h t o e m p l o y t h e m . T h e y m a y b e

s e e n i n e v e r y R a j a h ' s g a r d e n , r e l i e v i n g e a c h o t h e r ' s w a t c h e s

i n t h e u n b r o k e n i n c a n t a t i o n o v e r h i m d a y a n d n i g h t . I

o b s e r v e d f r o m m y w i n d o w a p r i e s t i n a g a r d e n e n g a g e d i n

s p i r i t u a l e x e r c i s e s o v e r d i s h a f t e r d i s h b r o u g h t o u t b e f o r e

I From time to time I c orresp onded with M r . G h o s h . H i s l a s t l e t t e r

( A p r i l 8 , 1 9 0 1 ) b e i n g , a s I t h i n k , c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f t h e t y p e o f t h i n k e r

l i k e l y t o b e d e v e l o p e d i n t h e I n d i a n u n i v e r s i t i es , a n e x t r a c t i s s u b j o i n e d : -

" I s e n d y o u h e r e w i t h a p a m p h l e t o f m i n e w h i c h c o n t a i n s a r e p r i n t o f

y o u r a r t i c l e i n t h e Glasgow Herald .

" Y o u r l e t t e r b r o u g h t m e s a d n e w s : t h e d e a t h o f M r s . Conway . B u t p e r -

h a p s I s h o u l d b e w i s e n o t t o r e c a l l t h e p a s t t o y o u w h e n t i m e m i g h t h a v e

b r o u g h t t o y o u a n y r e l i e f . O n l y w e o r i e n t a l p e o p l e a r e s o t i e d u p t o

home that home-matters rivet our attention very much, and such mis-

f o r t u n e s e x c i t e o u r s t r o n g e s t s y m p a t h i e s .

" I a m a s h a m e d t o c o n f e s s t h a t I h a v e n o t r e a d y o u r E n g l i s h e d i t i o n o f

T o m P a i n e . T h e F r e n c h b o o k i s s e a l e d t o m e . I w o n d e r i f y o u r r e l i g i o u s

s e n t i m e n t s h a v e t u r n e d t o w a r d s C h r i s t i a n o r f a r t h e r o f f t o w a r d s f r e e r

thought . I c o n t i n u e t o s t a n d f a s t b y C o m t e ' s t e a c h i n g a n d m y o w n H i n d u

a n t e c e d e n t . I ought not to judge between Positivism, Brahmoism, and

H i n d u i s m . I a m n o t i n f a v o u r o f t h e I n d i a n f o r m o f C h r i s t i a n r e l i g i o n . I

a m a f r a i d R a j a R a m m o h u n R o y w a s s w a y e d a l i t t l e t o o m u c h b y h i s P e r -

s i a n c u l t u r e a n d h i s p e r s o n a l i t y , o r r a t h e r h i s t r a d i t i o n s ; a n d t h e v i s i b l e

g r a n d e u r o f C h r i s t i a n d o m i n a t i o n l e d a w a y K e s h u b C h u n d e r S e n . K e s h u b ,

a s y o u r a c c o u n t s h o w s , m a d e a f e e b l e a t t e m p t t o r e c o n c i l e h i s o p i n i o n s

w i t h H i n d u i s m , a n d f a i l e d . I d o n o t k n o w i f y o u m a d e t h e a c q u a i n t a n c e o f

Pandit Iswar Chandra Vidya-Sagar . I f y o u d i d y o u w o u l d b e i n a p o s i -

t i o n t o j u d g e w h e t h e r P o s i t i v i s m i s n o t m o r e s u i t e d f o r r e c o n s t r u c t i o n o f

H i n d u i s m t h a n e i t h e r C h r i s t i a n o r P a r l i a m e n t a r y G o v e r n m e n t .

" Y o u r k i n d e f f o r t s f o r f a m i n e - s t r i c k e n I n d i a a r e v e r y t o u c h i n g t o m y

m i n d . B u t a s t h e H i n d u p r o v e r b s a y s , i t i s l i k e d r o p s o f d e w f o r a s e a o f

s a l t w a t e r . "



PROTAP CHUNDER MOZOOMDAR 29 1

b e i n g c o n v e y e d t o t h e b r e a k f a s t - t a b l e , - p e r h a p s t h e

o r i g i n o f t h e B r i t o n ' s g r a c e b e f o r e m e a t . I t w o u l d a p p e a r

t h a t t h e B r a h m a n P a n d i t i s w i t h o u t h o s t i l i t y t o a n y p h i l o -

s o p h i c a l v i e w s o f h i s e m p l o y e r t h a t d o n o t a f f e c t t h e l a t t e r ' s

r e l a t i o n t o t h e c e r e m o n i a l m a c h i n e r y o f w h i c h t h e P a n d i t

i s a p a r t .

T h e r e w a s a l r e a d y a g o o d d e a l o f s p e c u l a t i o n i n C a l -

c u t t a a s t o t h e p r o b a b l e s u c c e s s o r o f K e s h u b C h u n d e r S e n .

A name frequently mentioned was that of Mozoomdar,

w e l l k n o w n i n E n g l a n d a n d A m e r i c a , b e t w e e n w h i c h a n d

I n d i a h e s e e m e d t o o s c i l l a t e . M oz o o m d a r , i n a p p e a r a n c e

t h e t y p i c a l " m i l d H i n d u , " s p o k e g o o d E n g l i s h , a n d l i k e

h i s c h i e f , K e s h u b C b u n d e r S e n , g o t h i s f i r s t L o n d o n

h e a r i n g i n m y c h a p e l . Bu t Mozo o m d a r s h o w e d t o w a r d s

u s a f t e r w a r d s a s h y n e s s t h a t w a s n a t u r a l t h o u g h r a t h e r

d r o l l : a l t h o u g h o u r s w a s t h e o n l y U n i t a r i a n s o c i e t y w h i c h

h a d r e n o u n c e d t h e C h r i s t i a n n a m e , l a r g e l y b e c a u s e i t

e x c l u d e d o t h e r r e l i g i o n s , a B r a h m o a p o s t l e i n E n g l a n d

n e e d e d m a n y p u l p i t s , a n d t h e s e c o u l d b e s u p p l i e d o n l y

b y U n i t a r i a n C h r i s t i a n s . I c o n t i n u e d o n f r i e n d l y t e r m s

personally with M ozoomdar . H e w a s r e a l l y i n s p i r i t n o

H i n d u a t a l l , b u t a p r e a c h e r o f a v e r a g e E n g l i s h U n i t a -

r i a n i s m .

M oz o o m d a r ' s g r e a t t r o u b l e w a s t h e e x t e n t t o w h i c h

e d u c a t e d Y o u n g I n d i a , i n c a s t i n g o f f t h e o l d d e i t i e s , s e t

n o t h i n g i n t h e i r p l a c e . H e l o n g e d t o o b t a i n i n E n g l a n d

s o m e s c i e n t i f i c p a t r o n a g e o f h i s T h e i s m , a n d r e q u e s t e d m e

t o a r r a n g e f o r h i m a n i n t e r v i e w w i t h T y n d a l l , m y m e m o -

r a n d u m o f w h i c h I c o n c l u d e t o i n s e r t h e r e .

T h e i n t e r v i e w t o o k p l a c e a t t h e R o y a l I n s t i t u t i o n . W e

t h r e e w e r e a l o n e , a n d M o z o o m d a r , a f t e r a l l u d i n g t o t h e

h i g h r e p u t a t i o n o f T y n d a l l i n I n d i a , s a i d , « I f e e l t h e n e e d

f o r a f e w a x i o m s o f r e l i g i o n . " T y n d a l l s a i d , 11 Should we



222 MY PILGRIMAGE

c a l l t h e m b y s u c h a p r e c i s e t e r m a s a x i o m ? " M o z o o m d a r

s u g g e s t e d t h a t t h e t e r m p r i n c i p l e s m i g h t b e s u b s t i t u t e d ,

a d d i n g i n i l l u s t r a t i o n , " S u c h a s G o d a n d t h e s o u l . "

Tyndall in his gracious way said, " I t i s n o t p o s s i b l e

f o r m e t o u s e t h o s e w o r d s e x c e p t w i t h r e s e r v a t i o n s a n d

e x p l a n a t i o n s . " M oz o o m d a r a s k e d i n w h a t f o r m p o s s i b l e

those ideas or principles could be expressed . Tyndall

a s k e d , " I s a n y f o r m p o s s i b l e o r e v e n d e s i r a b l e ? " M o z o o m -

d a r s a i d , " I n I n d i a w e d o s t a n d i n n e e d o f s o m e f o r m t o

e m b o d y o u r n e w r e l i g i o u s i d e a s , f o r t h e s a k e o f m o r a l i t y .

Young men abound th ere who are not onl y parting with

t h e i r o l d b e l i e f s , b u t w i t h t h e i r m o r a l i t y a t t h e s a m e t i m e . "

Tyndall expresse d a hope that Mozoomdar might be mis-

t a k e n , a n d a d d e d , " I c a n n o t b e l i e v e t h a t t h e r e w o u l d b e

a n y s u c h r e s u l t i f t h e s e y o u n g m e n w e r e p r o p e r l y t a u g h t

i n m o r a l p r i n c i p l e s ." Mozoomdar acknowledged that they

w e r e n o t , p r o p e r l y s p e a k i n g , t a u g h t m o r a l i t y a t a l l . T y n -

d a l l s a i d , " I c a n n o t b e l i e v e t h a t a n y m a n r e q u i r e s t h e

a i d o f t h e o l o g y t o t e a c h h i m t h a t a n h o n e s t m a n i s b e t t e r

t h a n a r o g u e . " T y n d a l l s t a t e d t h a t c e r t a i n p u r e l y m o r a l

passages in a work of Fichte had wrought an impo rtant

e f f e c t i n h i m s e l f i n e a r l y l i f e , a n d h e d i d n o t d e n y t h a t

sacred books might stimulate into activity the higher

principles in every human mind and heart -where they

a l w a y s e x i s t t h o u g h s o m e t i m e s l a t e n t u n l e s s i n f l u e n c e d

from without . M o z o o m d a r s a i d w i t h e m p h a s i s , " I f e e l

t h a t r e l i g i o n m u s t c o n f o r m t o s c i e n c e . " T y n d a l l r e j o i n e d ,

` ° S u c h r e l i g i o n a s t h a t I c a n n o t c o n d e m n , b u t t h e r e v e r s e .

I n t r u e r e l i g i o n t h e r e i s a p e r m a n e n t a n d i n d e s t r u c t i b l e

element ; t h e f o r m s m a y f r e q u e n t l y h a v e t o b e a b a n d o n e d ,

t h e e s s e n c e n e v e r . I t h i n k i t i s n o t w i s e t o m o u l d t h i s

fluid element into form, however new . T h e y w h o s e e

f a r t h e s t c a n n o t d i s c e r n t h e u l t i m a t e f o r m s i n t o w h i c h t h i s



MOZOOMDAR'S DEITY 2 2 3

r e l i g i o u s s e n t i m e n t w i l l m o u l d i t s e l f . " O n h e a r i n g t h i s

M o z o o m d a r s t r e t c h e d f o r t h h i s h a n d t o T y n d a l l , w h o c o r -

d i a l l y g r a s p e d i t .

I b a d n o t m e t M o z o o m d a r s i n c e t h a t i n t e r v i e w ( 1 8 7 4 )

u n t i l w e t r a v e l l e d t o g e t h e r f r o m M a d r a s t o C a l c u t t a .

W e h a d a g o o d d e a l o f c o n v e r s a t i o n , b u t c o u l d n o t r e a c h

a n y k i n d o f a g r e e m e n t b e c a u s e h i s d e m a n d w a s f o r a d e -

m o n s t r a b l y w o r k i n g , m i n e f o r a l o v a b l e , d e i t y . He wished

t o c l e a r a w a y t h e g o d s a n d g o d d e s s e s o f I n d i a a s s o m a n y

i d o l s , b u t w h o w a s r e s p o n s i b l e f o r t h e i g n o r a n c e f r o m

w h i c h t h e y g r e w ? A n d w h a t w a s h i s o w n o n e B r a h m o

d e i t y b u t a l l o f t h o s e n a t u r e - g o d s c o n s o l i d a t e d i n t o o n e ,-h a t o n e r e s p o n s i b l e f o r a l l t h e c r u e l a n d d e s t r u c t i v e

f o r c e s r e p r e s e n t e d b y S i v a a n d K a l i ? O n c e h e s a i d t o m e ,

" I s t h e r e a n y t h i n g a t a l l t h a t y o u r e v e r e n c e ? " " Y e s , "

I r e p l i e d , " a l o v e l y a n d l o v a b l e w o m a n , a s w e e t c h i l d , a

m a n o f w i s d o m , a m i n d c o n s e c r a t e d t o p u r e r e a s o n , a t r u e

a n d l o v i n g h e a r t . " M o z o o m d a r t r i e d t o p e r s u a d e m e t h a t

a l l t h e s e b e a u t i f u l q u a l i t i e s w e r e d e e p i n t h e h e a r t o f h i s

d y n a m i c , u n i v e r s a l , o m n i p o t e n t d e i t y ; I c o u l d n o t s e e

l o v e i n c a n c e r s , I n d i a n f a m i n e s , e t c . , b u t w a s a s t e n d e r

a s I c o u l d b e w i t h t h e f a i t h o f t h i s H i n d u s o p a t h e t i c a l l y

a n x i o u s t o b u i l d u p a n e w r e l i g i o n f o r h i s r a c e . '

T h e g r e a t E x p o s i t i o n a t C a l c u t t a w a s o p e n , a n d S i r

W i l l i a m H u n t e r , t h e d i r e c t o r , g a v e m e f a c i l i t i e s f o r s e e -

i n g i t , e v e n i n c l u d i n g m e a m o n g t h e f e w m e n a d m i t t e d o n

t h e d a y r e s e r v e d f o r H i n d u l a d i e s . Among these ladies

w e r e a b o u t a d o z e n " c o n v e r t s " b e l o n g i n g t o a C h r i s t i a n

H o m e i n C a l c u t t a. T h e y h a d a c o s t u m e o f t h e i r o w n , a n d

g r o u p e d t h e m s e l v e s a p a r t . T h e i r u n c o n v e r t e d s i s t e r s i n

I P. C . M o z o o m d a r d i d p r e a c h i n K es h u b Ch u n d er S e n' s p u lp i t , w i t h

what success I know not . S i n c e t h i s v o l u m e w a s i n p r e s s I h a v e b e a r d o f

h i s r e c e n t d e a t h .



2 9 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

p a s s i n g b y p a u s e d t o g a z e o n t h e C h r i s t i a n s w i t h s e r i o u s

c u r i o s i t y , a n d a l w a y s w i t h e n t i r e r e s p e c t . T h e u n i f o r m

o f t h e c o n v e r t s-l l f i n e l o o k i n g -w a s a s n o w y w h i t e

garment flowing from the neck, and a sort of long sash

f o l d i n g a r o u n d t h e w a i s t a n d a l s o b e l o w i t t o t h e f e e t .

The garment, though perhaps devised for modesty, was

semi-transparent above the waist, and impressed me as

l e s s r e f i n e d t h a n t h e u n c o n s c i o u s a n d c h i l d l i k e e x p o s u r e s

o f t h e u n c o n v e r t e d l a d i e s i n t h e i r v a r i e d d r a p e r i e s . These

multitudes streaming along the corridors and from room

t o r o o m a p p e a r e d s o f u l l o f s u n s h i n e a n d m i r t h t h a t t h e y

s e e m e d t o b e g r o w n - u p c h i l d r e n ; t h e y w e r e f o u n d o f p l a y -

ing little tricks on each other as they marched along,

s u c h a s r e a c h i n g o v e r t h e s h o u l d e r s b e f o r e t h e m t o g i v e a

s l i g h t p u l l a t t h e h a i r o r c l o t h i n g o f s o m e a c q u a i n t a n c e ,

t h e n g a z i n g i n n o c e n t l y a w a y , a n d w h e n d e t e c t e d b r e a k i n g

into laughter that was never loud but shook the entire

f o r m . I t a p p e a r e d t o m e t h a t n e v e r i n E n g l a n d o r A m e r -

ica or Australia had I seen so many happy female faces

a s i n t h a t E x p o s i t i o n w h e r e t h e y w e r e g a t h e r e d f r o m m a n y

r e g i o n s .

I n t h e I n d i a n s e c t i o n f o u r b o y s w e r e w e a v i n g a c a r p e t ,

w h o s e c o l o u r s w e r e s h u t t l e d m u s i c a l l y . A m a n s a t i n f r o n t

with a pattern in his hand, chanting each colour to be

i n s e r t e d . The boys responded in chorus, each with the

c o l o u r h e h a d t o t o u c h , a n d t h e l i t t l e s h u t t l e s w e r e s e l e c t e d

deftly enough . T h i s w a s a p r e t t y i n s t a n c e o f v e r s e s w e e t -

ening toil, and seemed to unite the beauty wrought by

m a n w i t h t h a t w h i c h c l o t h e s t h e b u t t e r f l y a n d f l o w e r .

I n t h e C a l c u t t a s e c t i o n s t o o d a g r o u p o f l i f e - s i z e d C a t h -

o l i c i m a g e s , a n d o n e m o r n i n g I w a s m o v e d t o s o m e r e f l e c -

t i o n s b y s e e i n g a H i n d u , d u s t e r i n h a n d , t r y i n g t o c l e a n

t h e s e s a c r e d f i g u r e s . H e e v i d e n t l y f o u n d i t d i f f i c u l t . T h e



IN A CALCUTTA PRINT-SHOP 2 2 5 ,

g r o u p s o f o u t l a n d i s h p e o p l e c r o w d i n g t h e E x p o s i t i o n w e r e

p a r t i c u l a r l y a t t r a c t e d b y t h e s e C h r i s t i a n i m a g e s i n b l u e

a n d g o l d w i t h t h e i r b r a s s g l o r i e s .

I t w a s a g o o d - p l a c e f o r e t h n o g r a p h i c a l o b s e r v a t i o n s .

T h e r e w e r e a g o o d m a n y l i v i n g r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s o f t r i b e s ,

b u t m o s t o f t h e m w e r e s h o w n i n l i f e - s i z e d m o d e l s . T h e r e

h a d b e e n s o m e d i f f i c u l t y i n o b t a i n i n g t h e s e m o d e l s , a n d

t h e e f f o r t t o g e t a n A k a f o r m o d e l l i n g b a d b r o u g h t o n

a s m a l l w a r . A B a b u w a s s e n t i n t o t h e n e i g h b o u r h o o d o f

A s s a r t o f i n d a t y p i c a l A k a , b u t t h e A k a l o c k e d h i m u p ,

a n d i t r e q u i r e d a r e g i m e n t a n d a s k i r m i s h t o r e c o v e r h i m .

I g a t h e r e d f r o m t h e p r i n t - s h o p s o f C a l c u t t a s e v e r a l

p o p u l a r p i c t u r e s , - h i g h l y c o l o u r e d , - a m o n g t h e m t h e

G o d d e s s o f L e a r n i n g , w h o , w i t h h e r G r e e k r o b e a n d p i l e

o f b o o k s , r e s e m b l e s s o m e m e d i a e v a l p e r s o n i f i c a t i o n s o f

G r a m m a r . M a h a d a r , b e a r i n g S a t i o n h i s s h o u l d e r , - a

g i a n t w i t h f l o w i n g b e a r d a n d h a i r , t o i l i n g , s t a f f i n h a n d ,

b e t w e e n s t e e p a n d r u g g e d c l i f f s , - i s a f a i r i m a g e o f S t .

C h r i s t o p h e r . J a g a d h a t r i , t h e U n i v e r s a l N u r s e , s e a t e d o n

h e r l i o n , r e c a l l s U n a . D e v a k a , f a t h e r o f K r i s h n a , f l y i n g

w i t h t h e n e w - b o r n b a b e i n t o t h e w i l d e r n e s s t o e s c a p e K i n g

K a n s a , i s n o t a b l e f o r t h e b e a u t i f u l a n d e x q u i s i t e l y - h a l o e d

h e a d o f t h e c h i l d , w h i c h s e e m s t o h a v e c o m e f r o m a n o l d

I t a l i a n c a n v a s . B u t I s h a l l h a v e m o r e t o s a y o f p i c t u r e s

p r e s e n t l y .

On t h e c u r t a i n o f o n e o f t h e H i n d u t h e a t r e s w a s a

p i c t u r e a p p a r e n t l y o f A d a m a n d E v e . I t w a s i n a P a r s i

t h e a t r e , a n d w o u l d t h e r e f o r e r e p r e s e n t t h e o l d P e r s i a n

l e g e n d s o f t h e f i r s t p a r e n t s o f m a n k i n d , M e s c h i a a n d

Meschiane . I n I n d i a Adam" is now the ancient name

o f t h e f i r s t m a n ; b u t i n t h e S a n s k r i t i t w a s A d i m a , " t h e

f i r s t , " w h i l e t h e H e b r e w A d a m m e a n s " r e d e a r t h . I t i s

n o t e w o r t h y t h a t t h e s e s a c r e d p e r s o n a g e s a r e o f t e n p i c -



9 2 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

t u r e d v e r y f a i r , a n d g e n e r a l l y w i t h d i f f e r e n t c o m p l e x i o n s

f r o m t h o s e o f t h e p r e s e n t o r i e n t a l r a c e s . The houris of

t h e M o s l e m P a r a d i s e a r e s o c a l l e d , n o t , a s s o m e s u p p o s e ,

b e c a u s e t h e y a r e d a r k - e y e d , b u t b e c a u s e t h e y a r e f a i r .

T h e t h e a t r e s o f I n d i a a r e o f i n d i g e n o u s g r o w t h , a n d n o

d o u b t w e r e o r i g i n a l l y f o r m e d t o r e p r e s e n t d e e d s o f t h e

h e r o e s a n d d i v i n i t i e s t h a t s t i l l c h i e f l y f i g u r e o n i t s s t a g e .

S e v e r a l p l a y s o f S h a k e s p e a r e h a v e b e e n t r a n s l a t e d i n t o

Sinhalese, and in 1884 a company was rehearsing them

i n C o l o m b o . But the old Star Theatre in Calcutta was

o c c u p i e d w i t h H i n d u M i r a c l e P l a y s . T h e a u d i e n c e a t f i r s t

a p p e a r s t o b e m a d e u p e n t i r e l y o f m e n , b u t p r e s e n t l y o n e

sees what seems to be a faded tapestry surrounding the

amphitheatre ; t h e f i g u r e s , h o w e v e r , o c c a s i o n a l l y m o v e ,

a n d a r e t h e n d i s c o v e r e d t o b e w o m e n . T h e y a r e s e a t e d b e -

h i n d t h i n n e s t g a u z e , a n d a r e i n j u s t t h e s a m e u p p e r r o w s ,

separate from men, that women occupied in the ancient

G r e e k t h e a t r e ( A t h e n e u s , x i i , 5 3 4 ) .

T h e f i r s t p l a y I s a w w a s t h e c o m b a t o f t h e h e r o R a m a

w i t h t h e d e m o n R a v a n a . ( Ravana was a king of Ceylon

who was demonized in India, and popularly given many

h e a d s , j u s t a s t h e C z a r i s i n E n g l a n d , w h i c h s e e s h i s m i -

r a c u l o u s u b i q u i t y i n e v e r y v i l l a i n y t h a t o c c u r s t h r o u g h -

out Russia!) The performance opened with a chorus of

n y m p h s b e a u t i f u l l y d r a p e d , m a r c h i n g t o a n d f r o , s i n g i n g

a n a n c i e n t b a l l a d i n p r a i s e o f t h e h e r o . T h e t e r r i b l e g o d -

dess Kali was personated by a blackened man . S h e p r o -

m i s e s R a v a n a , t h e d e m o n k i n g o f L a n k a ( C e y l o n ), h e r

p r o t e c t i o n . V i b h i S h a n a , y o u n g e r b r o t h e r o f R a v a n a ,

w a r n s t h e d e m o n o f h i s f a t e . R a v a n a i s h e a v i l y w h i s k e r e d

a n d f e r o c i o u s , t h o u g h h e t a k e s t h e h e r o ' s s i d e i n t h e e n d .

We pass to the forest where Rama invokes the godde ss

Du r g a . The nymphs sing around him in the forest . T h e



A HINDU MIRACLE PLAY 2 2 7

s e n s a t i o n a l s c e n e i s w h e r e R a m a i s a b o u t t o t e a r o u t h i s

e y e a n d o f f e r i t a s a s a c r i f i c e t o t h e g o d d e s s . Durga, thu s

f a r a w o o d e n i m a g e , s t a r t s f o r w a r d , p r e v e n t s t h i s s a c r i f i c e ,

and promises to protect Rama's wife, Sita, whom Ravana

h a s a b d u c t e d a n d p l a c e d w i t h h i s d a u g h t e r i n - l a w .

T h e c o n f l i c t i s f o r t h e r e s c u e o f S i t a . W h e n R a v a n a

a p p r o a c h e s , h i s d a u g h t e r - i n - l a w o f c o u r s e h i d e s . A m e s -

s e n g e r w a r n s R a v a n a o f h i s p e r i l . R a v a n a b o a s t s t h a t h e

has a magic arrow, and cannot be defeated . T h e m o n -

key god, however, in disguise of a holy fakir, manages

to obtain this arrow from Ravana's wife . T h e c o m b a t

b e t w e e n t h e h e r o a n d t h e d e m o n c a u s e d e x c i t e m e n t i n t h e

a u d i e n c e , b u t i t w a s i n d i c a t e d o n l y b y l o w v o c a l u t t e r a n c e s .

When Ravana is dying in the fores t his conqueror Rama

a n d o t h e r s a s k h i m q u e s t i o n s . They approach and say he

h a s p e c u l i a r a n d o c c u l t k n o w l e d g e , b e i n g a v e r y a g e d k i n g ,

a n d t h e r e f o r e w i l l b e a b l e t o i n s t r u c t t h e y o u t h f u l R a m a

f o r h i s r o y a l c a r e e r . Ravana replies to him : 1 1 Thou art

t h e i n c a r n a t i o n o f G o d , a n d c a n s t n o t l e a r n a n y t h i n g o f

me ; y e t w i l l I s a y t o t h e e , ' B e q u i c k t o d o w h a t i s g o o d ,

s l o w t o d o w h a t i s e v i l .' All the good things I meant

to do are now unavailing ; I meant to build a stairway

to heaven, to make the salt ocean sweet . " T h e w i f e o f

Ravana mourns over him and cries, " After I have wor-

s h i p p e d a l l t h e g o d s a n d g o d d e s s e s s o l o n g , t h i s i s t h e

r e s u l t . " H e r a d o p t e d s o n c o n s o l e s h e r b y s a y i n g t h a t

s i n c e R a v a n a w a s k i l l e d b y R a m a , a d i v i n e b e i n g , b e m u s t

n e c e s s a r i l y g o t o I n d r a ' s p a r a d i s e . R a m a t h e n t e l l s h e r t h a t

her husband will never die . Then we have the exciting

e p i s o d e i n w h i c h S i t a , s u s p e c t e d b y R a m a , c a s t s h e r s e l f

i n t o t h e f i r e . R a m a , r a v i n g i n h i s a n g u i s h , i s a b o u t t o k i l l

h i m s e l f , w h e n A g n i , g o d o f f i r e , w i t h d r a w s t h e f l a m e s , a n d

S i t a r i s e s i n p u r e a p o t h e o s i s ; a f t e r w h i c h t h e o r c h e s t r a



9 1 2 8 MY PILGRIMAGE

p l a y s " God s a v e t h e Q u e e n , " a n d t h e a u d i e n c e s i l e n t l y

r e t i r e s .

I n t h e c o u r s e o f t h i s p l a y a n i n c i d e n t o c c u r r e d n o t s e t

d o w n o n t h e p r o g r a m m e . T h e H o n . M r . I l b e r t a n d a

B a b u w h o i n t e r p r e t e d t h e p l a y ( H i n d u s t a n i ) f o r m e w e r e ,

w i t h m y s e l f , t h e o n l y o c c u p a n t s o f t h e d r e s s - c i r c l e . T h e

m a n a g e r o f t h e t h e a t r e c a m e u p d u r i n g a n e n t r ' a c t e a n d

i n v i t e d u s b e h i n d t h e s c e n e s. We readily accepted, when

Mr. Ilbert, who supposed himself incognito, suddenly

f o u n d h i m s e l f t h e o b j e c t o f a p a t r i o t i c d e m o n s t r a t i o n . T h e

Hindus had recognized the author of the famous Ilbert

B i l l f o r e n l a r g i n g t h e r i g h t s o f n a t i v e s , a n d n o w R a m a ,

R a v a n a , t h e i r r e t i n u e s , a n d e v e n t h e i r w i v e s , c a m e f o r w a r d

a n d p r o s t r a t e d t h e m s e l v e s b e f o r e t h e a s t o n i s h e d s t a t e s -

m a n . The nymphs with the chorus stood round and made

p r o f o u n d o b e i s a n c e , a n d t h e g o d A n g i s a i d i n g o o d E n g l i s h ,

" S e e , s i r , e v e n o u r w o m e n , i g n o r a n t a s t h e y a r e , have been

m o v e d w i t h a d m i r a t i o n o f y o u , f o r y o u r j u s t i c e t o o u r r a c e ,

a n d d e s i r e t o p a y y o u h o m a g e . " M r . I l b e r t , a b a s h e d a t t h i s

u n e x p e c t e d s c e n e , a f t e r a b r i e f a c k n o w l e d g m e n t , i n t r o d u c e d

m e t o t h e g r o u p i n a f l a t t e r i n g w a y a s t h e c o m p i l e r o f a n

oriental Anthology, whereupon the manager exclaimed,

" T hi s is M r . I l b e r t ' s f r i e n d , " a n d s t r a i g h t w a y I h a d t h e

h o n o u r o f s e e i n g A g n i , V i b h i , R a m a , a n d R a v a n a i n t h e i r

s p l e n d o u r a n d a l l t h e e p i c a l h e r o i n e s k n e e l i n g o n t h e f l o o r

before me !

T h i s i n c i d e n t b e h i n d t h e s c e n e s w a s m y n e a r e s t g l i m p s e

o f t h e c o n t e m p o r a r y w o r l d i n t h e C a l c u t t a t h e a t r e . I w a s

p r e s e n t l y b a c k i n m y s e a t n e a r t h e w o m e n s e a t e d i n a n c i e n t

G r e e k f a s h i o n , w h i l e t h e a c t o r s j u s t n o w k n e e l i n g t o u s ,

r e s u m i n g t h e i r g r a n d e u r , b o r e m e b a c k t o p o e t i c v i s i o n s o f

primitive man . H a v i n g b e f o r e g o t t h e t a l e c o m p l e t e l y i n

my memory, it was so illuminated by the Puranic cos-



2 3 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

g r i g a o n t h e d a y w h e n t h e f e s t i v a l o f t h e N a g a r a j a s G i r i k a

and Sundara was celebrated, and sounded a drum . _ A n d

w h e n a g r e a t c r o w d h a d c o l l e c t e d h e e x h i b i t e d i n a d r a m a

the above-mentioned in the life of Bhagavant (Buddha)

in harmony with the Abhinishkramanasutra . Thereby the

performers and the assembled crowds were confirmed in

t h e f a i t h . And they uttered sounds of approval, and be

m a d e a l a r g e p r o f i t . " B u t t h i s a c t o r , i n o r d e r t o i m p r e s s

t h e u n b e l i e v e r s , h a d m a d e u p t w o o f h i s p e r f o r m e r s i n t h e

g u i s e o f e m i n e n t B h i k s h u s , - h o l y p e r s o n a g e s o f r a n k , -a d d i n g a l i t t l e f a n , a n d t h e s e , a n g r y a t b e i n g t a k e n o f f b y

t h e a c t o r , p u t u p a b o o t h n e a r h i s a n d p e r f o r m e d a g r a n d e r

B o d i s a t p l a y . A s t h e y w e r e i n d i s g u i s e t h e a c t o r f o l l o w e d

t h e m , a n d o n e t u r n e d o n h i m a n d s a i d , " You wret ch, who

l i v e b y o u r a r t ! a s y o u h a v e b r o u g h t u s o n t o t h e s t a g e

w e w i l l g o t o e v e r y p l a c e w h e r e y o u p e r f o r m , a n d w e w i l l

annoy you . " T h e a c t o r c r a v e d p a r d o n , b e c a u s e h e g o t h i s

l i v i n g b y h i s p e r f o r m a n c e , a n d r e c e i v e d i t b y g i v i n g u p

t h e w h o l e o f h i s r e c e i p t s t o t h e B h i k s h u s .

T h e w o r d s o f t h e B h i k s h u , " o u r a r t , " a r e s i g n i f i c a n t .

I t a p p e a r s t h a t t h e o f f e n c e w a s i n a p e r f o r m a n c e o f t h e

B u d d h i s t M i r a c l e P l a y b y a n u n s a n c t i f i e d p e r s o n f o r

p e r s o n a l p r o f i t . A n y t h i n g r e c e i v e d b y a B h i k s h u w a s

s u p p o s e d t o g o t o t h e h o l y b r o t h e r h o o d , -w h i c h i n t h e

T i b e t a n t a l e c o n s i s t e d o f t w e l v e .

A t t h e P a r s i t h e a t r e s a l l t h e f e m a l e p a r t s a r e a c t e d b y

men, and it is wonderful how feminine they make them-

s e l v e s . O v e r t h e d r o p s c e n e i n t h e P a r s i t h e a t r e a t C a l -

c u t t a t h e r e w a s a p o r t r a i t i n w h i c h I w a s m u c h i n t e r e s t e d ,

a n d f o u n d t o m y a s t o n i s h m e n t t h a t i t w a s m e a n t f o r S h a k e -

s p e a r e . T h e p l a y w a s t h e o p e r a o f " Nairung-Ishk . " T h e

language used was Ghuzerati . I t i s a t a l e o f a p p a r e n t l y

P e r s i a n - M o h a m m e d a n o r i g i n , a n d i n i t I d i s c o v e r e d a r e -



A PARSY OPERA 2 3 1

s e m b l a n c e t o o u r E u r o p e a n l e g e n d o f t h e m o t h e r o f

C h a r l e m a g n e . I n t h e f i r s t s c e n e w e s e e t w o v e r y y o u n g

people -a sister and a brother -who bewail their cruel

treatment at the hands of their royal stepmother . T h e

s t e p m o t h e r e n t e r s , a n d i s a n g r y a t s e e i n g t h e m t o g e t h e r .

T h i s s t e p m o t h e r h a s a s o n o f h e r o w n . S h e i n t e n d s t o k i l l

t h e s t e p s o n , h e i r t o h e r h u s b a n d ' s t h r o n e , a n d h a v e h e r

o w n s o n m a r r y t h e g i r l , i n d e f i a n c e o f c u s t o m . T h e g i r l ,

h o w e v e r , i s f i r m i n h e r d e t e r m i n a t i o n t o r e s i s t t h i s . T h e

t w o y o u n g p e o p l e a r e n e x t n e a r l y s t a r v e d , a n d r e p a i r t o t h e

t o m b o f t h e i r m o t h e r . T h e r e t h e y t e l l h e r w h a t t h e y h a v e

t o s u f f e r , a n d l o n g t o r e s t b e s i d e h e r . T h e s p i r i t o f t h e

m o t h e r r i s e s o u t o f h e r t o m b a n d s a y s t o t h e m , 1 1 B e p a t i e n t ,

d o n o t g r i e v e s o m u c h . A t t e n d t o w h a t I s a y . T h e t r e e t h a t

g r o w s b e s i d e m y t o m b h a s o n i t f r u i t , w h i c h y o u m u s t e a t

morning and evening . " T h e y e a t t h i s f r u i t a n d c o n t i n u a l l y

e a t i t . T h e s t e p m o t h e r , s e e i n g t h a t t h e y d o n o t s t a r v e ,

m a k e s h e r s o n a c t a s a s p y u p o n t h e i r m o v e m e n t s . H e r e -

p o r t s h o w t h e y a r e o b t a i n i n g f o o d . The stepmother then

p r e t e n d s i l l n e s s , a n d t e l l s h e r h u s b a n d t h a t a n a s t r o l o g e r

d e c l a r e s s h e c a n b e c u r e d o n l y b y t h e r o o t o f a t r e e n e a r

t h e t o m b o f h i s f o r m e r w i f e. T h e k i n g , a b o u t t o l e a v e f o r

t h e w a r s , c o n s e n t s t h a t t h e t r e e s h o u l d b e p u l l e d u p b y t h e

r o o t s . When the king has gone, the stepmother orders a

s l a v e t o t a k e t h e t w o y o u n g p e o p l e i n t o t h e j u n g l e a n d s l a y

t h e m . W h e n t h e s l a v e h a s t a k e n t h e m i n t o t h e j u n g l e h e

r e v e a l s t o t h e m h i s e r r a n d , a n d s a y s h e w i l l n o t s l a y t h o s e

w h o m h e h a s a t t e n d e d s i n c e t h e i r i n f a n c y . They implore

h i m t o c a r r y o u t h i s i n s t r u c t i o n s , t h e i r l i v e s b e i n g w r e t c h e d .

T h e s l a v e s a y s , " I w i l l n e v e r k i l l y o u ; I h a v e e a t e n s a l t

with you ; i f y o u p l e a s e y o u m a y k i l l m e . I h a v e a n o b e -

d i e n t h e a r t , a n d i f y o u w i l l , w e w i l l f l y t o g e t h e r a n d n e v e r

r e t u r n . " I t i s a r r a n g e d , h o w e v e r , t h a t h e s h a l l r e t u r n a n d



2 3 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

r e p o r t t h e i r d e a t h , a n d i n p a r t i n g h e s a y s , H a p p i n e s s i s

n o t p e r p e t u a l ; nor unhappiness . B e p a t i e n t . " W h e n h e

h a s l e f t t h e m , t h e t w o k n e e l a n d p r a y , c o n c l u d i n g w i t h

the words, "Almighty, we are faithful to thee ! " A s

they wander they become hungry . The brother s e e s s o m e

a n i m a l , a n d p r o p o s e s t o k i l l i t , b u t h i s s i s t e r s a y s , " Wem u s t n o t k i l l . " H e r e p l i e s , " Y e s , f o r i t i s s e n t b y G o d

i n a n s w e r t o o u r p r a y e r . " H e f i r e s a t t h e a n i m a l , a n d k i l l s

i t , b u t t h e y h a v e n o m e a n s o f c o o k i n g . H e g o e s t o b e g

a l i t t l e f i r e . T h e s i s t e r r e m a i n s a l o n e . She bemoans the

f a t e o f t h e a n i m a l . L ° Poor deer, your fate brought you

n e a r u s , a n d y o u a r e d e a d . I n t h e s a m e w a y a l l w i l l d i e . "

A s s h e s i n g s t h i s a s e r p e n t b i t e s h e r a n d s h e f a l l s s e n s e -

l e s s . W h i l e s h e i s i n t h i s c o n d i t i o n r o b b e r s e n t e r t h e f o r -

e s t , a n d r o b h e r o f h e r j e w e l s ; b u t s e e i n g t h a t s h e i s a

b e a u t y w h o w o u l d b r i n g a g o o d p r i c e , t h e y d e s i r e t o r e s t o r e

h e r . O n e o f t h e m h a s a c h a r m f r o m a s e r p e n t ' s h e a d , a n d

w i t h i t c u r e s h e r . S h e r i s e s w i t h t h e w o r d s ,"W h y d i d

you waken me from sleep? " T h e y t e l l h e r w h a t h a s h a p -

' p e n e d . S h e a s k s f o r h e r b r o t h e r ; t h e y t e l l h e r t h a t h e i s

n e a r b y a t a h o u s e , a n d t h e y w i l l g u i d e h e r t o h i m . W h e n

s h e h a s g o n e , h e r b r o t h e r r e t u r n s , d e p l o r i n g t h a t h e h a d

missed the road . A t t h i s m o m e n t t h e p e o p l e f r o m t h e

c i t y o f t h e Y a m a n e n t e r , a n d d e c l a r e t h a t h e m u s t b e t h e i r

k i n g . W h e n e v e r t h e k i n g d i e s , t h e s t r a n g e r t h a t f i r s t a r r i v e s

m u s t b e m a d e k i n g . T h e y b e a r h i m o f f b y f o r c e , h e c a l l i n g

f o r h i s s i s t e r . S h e m e a n w h i l e i s a p r i s o n e r . One of the

r o b b e r s f a l l s i n l o v e w i t h h e r , b u t s h e r e j e c t s h i m . W h i l s t

t h e y a r e t o g e t h e r , t h e o t h e r r o b b e r s e n t e r , s h o w i n g t h e i r

s u s p i c i o n o f t h e i r c o m r a d e ' s g o o d f a i t h , w h i c h h e a l l a y s

b y d e c l a r i n g s h e m u s t b e s o l d . S h e i s s o l d i n t h e c i t y ( f o r

5 0 0 0 r u p e e s ) t o a h a g , w h o t a k e s h e r t o a d i s r e p u t a b l e

h o u s e , w h e r e s h e i s c o m p e l l e d t o s i n g f o r m o n e y . W h i l s t



23 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

f o l l o w e d t h e s a m e c u s t o m , I i n f e r t h a t t h e p l a y m u s t h a v e

been written by one of the reformers who had caused a

schism by demanding the release of woman from the or-

d e a l s t o w h i c h s h e i s s u b j e c t e d b y H i n d u i s m , a n d a l s o t h e

a b o l i t i o n o f i n f a n t m a r r i a g e s . I n t h i s a m u s i n g l i t t l e p l a y

a w e a l t h y y o u t h w h o h a d b e e n m a r r i e d t o a d i s t i n g u i s h e d

c h i l d b a d f a l l e n i n t o t h e h a n d s o f a f a s c i n a t i n g w o m a n .

Among other things she dictates to him an exceedingly

c o m i c a l l e t t e r t o h i s w i f e , s t a t i n g t h a t h e w a s h a v i n g a

v e r y p l e a s a n t e n t e r t a i n m e n t w h e r e h e w a s , b u t w o u l d c o m e

t o h e r a g a i n w h e n b e g o t t i r e d .

O n i n q u i r i n g a t C a l c u t t a a b o u t t h e f a m i l y o f t h e f a m o u s

R a m m o h u n R o y , f o u n d e r o f B r a h m o i s m ( T h e i s m ) i n I n -

d i a , w h o s e m i s s i o n t o E n g l a n d f i f t y y e a r s b e f o r e w a s a n

e v e n t o f h i s t o r i c i m p o r t a n c e , I l e a r n e d t h a t b e w a s r e p r e -

s e n t e d b y a g r a n d s o n , H u r r e i n i h u n R o y , a w e a l t h y g e n t l e -

m a n i n t e r e s t e d c h i e f l y i n a m e n a g e r i e h e h a d e s t a b l i s h e d

o n h i s e s t a t e , a l o n g w i t h a c i r c u s ! Of course I went out

to the circus, and at the entrance found a programme

p r i n t e d i n t h e b e s t s t y l e o f " E n g l i s h a s s h e i s s p o k e : "

" L o o k ! L o o k ! ! L o o k ! ! ! T h e u n p r e c e d e n t e d s c e n e i n

B e n g a l . T h e B l o s s o m i n g R o s e , o r t h e D a u g h t e r o f F l o w e r s .

T h e F a i r y K n o h u m k u m n i . T h e m o s t a t t r a c t i v e You n g

Equestrian in the New and Wonderful feats on the Pad

H o r s e . A B o y o f f i v e y e a r s i s t h e m o s t a t t r a c t i o n ! "

As a matter of fact, a primary gymnastic school in

L o n d o n c o u l d s h o w b e t t e r a c r o b a t i c f e a t s , a n d t h e h o r s e -

riding was comically commonplace . The manager of the

s h o w , s e e i n g m e t a k i n g n o t e s , c a m e t o m e a n d a p o l o g i z e d

f o r t h e s p e c t a c l e , s a y i n g t h a t i t w a s e n t i r e l y b y a m a t e u r s .

On payment of a few additional pice I visited the me-

n a g e r i e , w h e r e t h e r e w a s a b r a s s b a n d t h a t h a d a n a c c o m -

p a n i m e n t f o r e a c h p a r t i c u l a r c r y o r g r o w l o f t h e a n i m a l s .



2 3 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

b u s i n e s s ;but everybody is on the move, all are noisy,

many frant ic . It is as if a vast population were hag-

r i d d e n . So soon as we alighted from our wagonette two

or three men speaking pigeon-English fasten ed on us,

a n x i o u s t o b e o u r g u i d e s ; a r o u n d o u r g r o u p o v e r a h u n d r e d

p e o p l e o f a l l a g e s a n d b o t h s e x e s m a s s e d t h e m s e l v e s , h o l d -

i n g o u t t h e i r s m a l l o r l a r g e o r s k i n n y a r m s , a n d c l a m o u r -

i n g f o r G° baksheesh . " W e n e e d e d t h e g u i d e s s i m p l y t o

c l e a r a p a t h b e f o r e u s , w h i c h t h e y d i d b y y e l l s a n d b l o w s .

A s w e t r i e d t o m o v e i t w a s h a r d l y p o s s i b l e t o t a k e a s t e p

without running down some of the innumerable children,

. w h o s e o n l y c l o t h i n g w a s a b i t o f m e t a l i n t h e n o s t r i l , t o

w h i c h s o m e a d d e d a s t r i n g a r o u n d t h e p i t o f t h e s t o m a c h .

N o H i n d u d e i t y o r d e m o n w a s e v e r m o r e m a n y - h a n d e d

t h a n e a c h o f t h e s e t h e i r w o r s h i p p e r s . One boy of ten or

t w e l v e y e a r s , p a r t i c u l a r l y u r g e n t i n h i s e n t r e a t i e s , s u p p l i e d

us with a naive specimen of some of these beggars . A s

we were nearing a point where many genuine suf ferers

w e r e d i s p l a y i n g t h e i r p h y s i c a l d i s t o r t i o n s a n d a i l m e n t s ,

S i r W i l l i a m w a n t e d s o m e p i c e t o d i s t r i b u t e , a n d d e -

m a n d e d c o p p e r c h a n g e f o r s i l v e r . O n t h e i n s t a n t t h e l a d

w h o b a d b e g g e d s o p i t e o u s l y d r e w o u t a w e l l - l o a d e d

m o n e y - b a g , c o u n t e d o u t t h e c h a n g e , a n d i n s t a n t l y b e g a n

again his whine for baksheesh .

T h e f i r s t c r o w d t h a t b e s e t u s b e c a m e d i s c o u r a g e d w h e n

t h e y f o u n d t h a t S i r W i l l i a m k n e w t h e i r l a n g u a g e a n d t h e m

p e r f e c t l y , s o o u r w a y t h r o u g h t h e t h r o n g b e c a m e e a s i e r

f o r a l i t t l e t i m e . We came upon several small shrines in

s m a l l b o o t h s , i n w h i c h r u d e e f f i g i e s o f a b o r i g i n a l d e i t i e s

w e r e h u d d l e d t o g e t h e r i n a n o m a l o u s f a s h i o n . B e s i d e t h e

bloodthirst y Kali was Ganesa, god of wisdom ; o n e i t h e r

side of these were the Linga ; while before them were

five large green pumpkins, each with gre en leaves on



SI R WILLIAM HUNTER 23 7

i t s t o p . I n d e e d t h e L i n g a a p p e a r e d a t e v e r y s t e p , a n d

b y n o m e a n s s o m u c h c o n v e n t i o n a l i z e d a s i n t h e t e m p l e s .

I n o n e o r t w o i n s t a n c e s i t w a s r a t h e r s t a r t l i n g t o o b s e r v e

t h e d e g r e e o f r e a l i s m w i t h w h i c h t h e s y m b o l s o f r e p r o d u c -

t i o n w e r e d i s p l a y e d . I t s e e m s a d m i s s i b l e f o r a n y b o d y t o

s e t u p a r e d u g l y f i g u r e , w i t h g o g g l e - e y e s a n d m o n s t r o u s

t e e t h , c a l l i t b y t h e n a m e o f s o m e d e i t y , a n d b e g p i c e f o r

l o o k i n g a t i t . S i r W i l l i a m , h o w e v e r , p a u s e d o n l y a t p l a c e s

w h i c h d i s p l a y e d f o r m s o f m y t h o l o g i c a l o r a r c h a e o l o g i c a l

i n t e r e s t . H i s e x p l a n a t i o n s o f t h e m t o m e -t h e i r o r i g i n ,

h i s t o r y , m e a n i n g - w e r e l i s t e n e d t o b y o u r p i g e o n - E n g -

l i s h g u i d e s w i t h m u t e a s t o n i s h m e n t . T h e y h a d a t f i r s t

a t t e m p t e d t o g i v e u s e x p l a n a t i o n s , b u t w h e n t h e y f o u n d

t h a t t h e E n g l i s h m a n p r o c e e d e d t o d i s c l o s e a k n o w l e d g e

i n f i n i t e l y b e y o n d t h e i r o w n , a n d h e a r d t h e c o a r s e s t k i n d

o f s y m b o l r a i s e d i n t o s i g n i f i c a n c e , t h e y w e r e a w e s t r u c k .

" W e c a n n o t t e l l y o u a n y t h i n g , s i r , " s a i d o n e .

P r e s e n t l y w e c a m e t o a l a r g e , r o u n d , o p e n b u i l d i n g ,

i n t h e c e n t r e o f w h i c h w a s a l i n g a - s h a p e d f o u n t a i n , i n t o

w h i c h p r i e s t s w e r e c a s t i n g f l o w e r s ( m a r i g o l d s ) a n d l a d l e s

o f w a t e r , a n d b e s i d e w h i c h w e r e f i g u r e s o f a b u l l a n d t h e

e l e p h a n t - h e a d e d G a n e s a . T h i s w a s a c o m p a r a t i v e l y q u i e t

s p o t , t h e p e o p l e a b o u t i t b e i n g f e w e r a n d m o r e r e s p e c t -

a b l e . S i r W i l l i a m g a v e m e a c l e a r a n d f u l l e x p l a n a t i o n ,

a n d w h i l e h e d i d s o a g r o u p o f n a t i v e s d r e w n e a r ; a l l

v o i c e s c e a s e d ; i t w a s w r i t t e n o n t h e i r f a c e s t h a t t h e y

n e v e r b e f o r e h a d a s s o c i a t e d a n y s e r i o u s m e a n i n g w i t h

t h o s e f o r m s . O n e o f o u r g u i d e s , w h o s p o k e f a i r E n g l i s h ,

t r a n s l a t e d p a r t s o f w h a t S i r W i l l i a m s a i d t o s o m e y o u n g

p e o p l e , a n d a s w e p a s s e d o n s a i d , " W e h a v e n e v e r b e -

f o r e h e a r d a n y s u c h m e a n i n g c o n n e c t e d w i t h t h e s e t h i n g s .

W e h a v e n e v e r b e f o r e h a d h e r e a n y E n g l i s h m a n l i k e y o u ,

s i r . "



238 MY PILGRIMAGE

Just as this was said we passed six or seven naked,

long-haired, and long-bearded y o g i s , e a c h s q u a t t e d b e -

neath his separate rude shelter of leav es or rushes,

mutely contemplating a smoking log . S o m e o n e s a i d t o

S i r W i l l i a m , " T h e r e i s a m a n f r o m t h e u n i v e r s i t y , " a n d

o n t u r n i n g w e s a w a f i n e - l o o k i n g y o g i , y o u n g e r t h a n

t h e r e s t , w h o s e e m e d t o b e o u t o f p l a c e . O n a p p r o a c h -

i n g h i m w e f o u n d t h a t h e c o u l d n o t o n l y s p e a k g o o d

E n g l i s h , b u t w a s a B . A . a n d D . L . o f C a l c u t t a U n i v e r s i t y .

I t w a s a p p a l l i n g t o f i n d a g r a d u a t e o f t h e u n i v e r s i t y a n d

o f t h e l a w s c h o o l i n s u c h s i t u a t i o n . T h i s y o g i h a d e x c i t e d

u n u s u a l i n t e r e s t , a n d a c r o w d h u n g r o u n d h i m . T h e

following conversation, of which I made careful notes,

e ns ue d : -

B u n t e r . What led you to become a y o g i ?

Yog i . T h e g o v e r n m e n t m a d e m e a y o g i .

H u n t e r . H o w d i d t h e y d o t h a t ?

Y o g i . They ordered me to go through the exercises

n e c e s s a r y t o b e c o m e a y o g i .

Hunte r. You a r e n o t t e l l i n g m e t h e f a c t s . Yo u m u s t

have had some inducement to become a y o g i .

Y o g i ( s m i l i n g ) . I a m t h e l a r g e s t n a t i v e l a n d o w n e r

about here ; I i n h e r i t e d t h r e e h u n d r e d a c r e s ; I t h o u g h t

I c o u l d f u l f i l t h e o b l i g a t i o n s a n d d u t i e s o f t h e e s t a t e b e t -

t e r b y b e c o m i n g a y o g i . The government said so .

H u n t e r . D o y o u s p e n d t h e w h o l e d a y h e r e ?

Y o g i . Y e s , a n d t h e n i g h t -w h e n t h e r e i s l e s s n o i s e .

H u n t e r . H o w d o y o u o c c u p y y o u r s e l f ?

Y o g i . W o r s h i p p i n g t h e f i r e t h e r e .

H u n t e r . D o y o u e x p e c t t o b e c o m e b e t t e r b y i t ?

Yog i . Ye s . B y e x e r c i s e s , b y p r a y e r s , I m a y m a k e m y -

s e l f b e t t e r , a n d g r a d u a l l y b e c o m e a n a b d u r .M D . C . W i l l y o u s i t h e r e t h e n a s n o w ?



A "GOVERNMENT YOGI" 239

Yog i . Ye s .

. M D . C . Will y o u t h e n h a v e p o w e r t o w o r k m i r a c l e s ?

Yog i . N o . C h r i s t a l o n e c o u l d w o r k m i r a c l e s .

T h a t w a s t h e l a s t o f o u r i n t e r v i e w w i t h t h i s b a c h e l o r

o f a r t s a n d o f l a w s . O n h i s f o r e h e a d , a s h e a g a i n b e n t

i t t o w a r d s t h e b u r n i n g l o g , I o b s e r v e d a s p e c i a l S i v a - m a r k

( o n e r e d b e t w e e n t w o a s h e n l i n e s ) , a n d t h o u g h t i t w a s

a b o u t t i m e f o r a n o t h e r a v a t a r o f V i s h n u w h e n a n y p a r t n e r

o f t h e T r i a d c a n s o b r i n g a m a n o f t a l e n t t o t h e d u s t .

S i r W i l l i a m t h o u g h t i t p r o b a b l e t h a t t h e y o g i ' s s t a t e -

m e n t t h a t t h e g o v e r n m e n t h a d d i r e c t e d h i m t o b e c o m e

s u c h m u s t b e b a s e d o n s o m e c l a u s e i n t h e t i t l e t o h i s

land, which may have been originally d e e d e d t o a n

ancestor, as "Mr . S o - a n d - s o , y o g i , " and that he may

h a v e e r r o n e o u s l y i n f e r r e d t h a t h i s t e n u r e m i g h t n o t be

s e c u r e u n l e s s h e a l s o b e c a m e a y o g i . T h e f i c t i o n o f

b e i n g a " g ov e rn m en t y o g i " w o u l d a l s o g i v e h i m e x c e p -

t i o n a l i m p o r t a n c e . B u t o f w h a t u t i l i t y c o u l d t h e a c r e s , o r

a l l t h e w e a l t h o f I n d i e s , b e t o a m a n d o o m e d f o r l i f e t o

s i t l o o k i n g a t a s m o k i n g l o g ? I h a d w i t n e s s e d a l i v i n g

c r e m a t i o n , a n d y e t t h e r e w a s n o t r a c e o f s a d n e s s i n t h e

v i c t i m ' s c o u n t e n a n c e , - i n d e e d h e w a s c h e e r f u l. '

Another y o g i , w i t h l o n g b l a c k h a i r a n d b e a r d s u r r o u n d -

i n g a f a c e t h a t s e e m e d a h u n d r e d y e a r s o l d , g a z e d a t m e

w i t h e y e s t h a t n e v e r w i n k e d , a n d i n w h i c h t h e r e w a s n o

1 T h e m o t i v e o f t h i s y o g i , a t o n c e w o r l d l y a n d v i r t u a l l y s u i c i d a l , s u g -

g e s t s a c l u e t o t h e r a g e w i t h w h i c h a t h e i s m i s c o m m o n l y m e t . D e n i a l o f

t h e e x i s t e n c e o f G o d i s d r e a d e d m o r e t h a n c r i m e . W h y i s t h a t ? W h o h a s

i n f o r m e d t h e w o r l d t h a t G o d o b j e c t s t o h a v i n g h i s e x i s t e n c e d e n i e d ? I t

c a n n o t b e i m a g i n e d t h a t t h e e x i s t e n c e d e p e n d s o n w h e t h e r m e n b e l i e v e i t

o r n o t , o r t h a t d i v i n e h a p p i n e s s c a n b e a f f e c t e d b y t h e d i s b e l i e f o f m e n ; b u t

t h e r e a r e m a n y h u m a n i n s t i t u t i o n s a n d i n t e r e s t s , o f a s o c i a l , p o l i t i c a l , a n d

p e c u n i a r y k i n d , w h i c h h a v e t h e n a m e o f G o d i n t h e i r t i t l e s , a n d s e e m t o

r e s t u p o n h i s g e n u i n e n e s s . I f t h e r e i s n o G o d s u c h a s i s t he r e i n d e s c r i b e d ,

t h e y m i g h t l o o k a b s u r d , a n d t h e i r a u t h o r i t y m i g h t b e q u e s t i o n e d .



240 MY PILGRIMAGE

s p e c u l a t i o n . H i s n e a r l y n a k e d f o r m w a s m o t i o n l e s s , n o t a

g e s t u r e e x h i b i t e d a n y s i g n o f l i f e ; h e l o o k e d l i k e p a i n t e d

w o o d . I remembered how in early life I used to find a

certain romance in reading about yogis-h e p i c t u r e o f

t h e h o l y m a n i n t h e f o r e s t , g i v e n i n " Sakuntala," who had

s a t m o t i o n l e s s s o l o n g t h a t b i r d s b u i l t t h e i r n e s t s i n h i s

r a g s , a n d t h e s e r p e n t c a s t i t s s k i n a c r o s s h i s l a p . But the

yogi i s m u c h m o r e a t t r a c t i v e i n t h e v e r s e o f K a l i d a s a t h a n

w h e n s e e n n e a r t o .

W e p a s s e d t h r o u g h s t r e e t s a b o u t t e n f e e t w i d e b e t w e e n

booths bristling with begging hands, and came upon a

l a n e o f h o w l i n g m a l f o r m a t i o n s , m o n s t r o s i t i e s , m a d n e s s e s .

One had no legs, another no thighs ; a r m l e s s b o y s , l e g -

l e s s m e n , s e v e r a l w h o s e a r m s e n d i n b o n e o r t h e i r l e g s i n

c l u b s ; a n e p i l e p t i c c r o n e b e a t i n g h e r h e a d a g a i n s t t h e

e a r t h ; a n o t h e r w h o l o o k e d l i k e a b a l l o n t w o b o n e s . A s ,

s c a t t e r i n g c o p p e r s t o e a c h , w e p r e s s e d b e y o n d t h e s e r a v -

i n g s u f f e r e r s , t h e i r c r i e s s o u n d e d a s i f g a t h e r e d i n o n e

a g o n i z e d , s h a r p v o i c e , t h e s c r e a m o f s o m e m o n s t e r , t h a t

c u r d l e d t h e b l o o d .

B u t n o w w e w e r e c a u g h t i n a c r o w d e v e n m o r e u n c a n n y ,

w e r e t h a t p o s s i b l e . It was a crowd of convulsionaires,

f r e s h f r o m t h e a n n u a l p i l g r i m a g e t o S a g a r , m o u t h o f t h e

r i v e r , a l l s t r u g g l i n g t o g e t n e a r o n e s h r i n e . The slight

garment each wore was nearly torn from so me of them,

b u t t h e y f o r g o t t h a t a n d e v e r y t h i n g e l s e a s w i t h s h o u t s

a n d c r i e s t h e y p u s h e d a n d e l b o w e d e a c h o t h e r . A p a t h w a s

l a b o r i o u s l y m a d e f o r u s u n t i l w e r e a c h e d t h e e n t r a n c e o f

t h e p o r t i c o , b e y o n d w h i c h p r o f a n e f e e t c a n n o t g o . T h e

great goddess Kali was now only a few yards away, but

s h u t f r o m o u r view b y a w a l l o f n a k e d b a c k s , e v e r y

m u s c l e s t a n d i n g o u t i n k n o t s . I w a s a l m o s t i n d e s p a i r o f

s e e i n g K a l i a t a l l ; b u t S i r W i l l i a m h a d a s i l v e r t a l i s m a n ,



K A L I ' S IMAGE 9 4 1

a t s i g h t o f w h i c h t h r e e o r f o u r s t a l w a r t f e l l o w s p u m -

m e l l e d t h e w a l l o f b a c k s u n t i l o n e a f t e r a n o t h e r v e e r e d

a s i d e , a n d t h r o u g h a r i f t i n t h e m a s s I s a w t h e r e n o w n e d

i m a g e o f K a l i . H e r v i s a g e w a s b l a c k a s t a r , s a v e f o r h e r

t h r e e b l o o d - r e d e y e s ( o n e i n t h e f o r e h e a d ) , r e d e y e b r o w s ,

a n d r e d t o n g u e l o l l i n g d o w n a n d d r i p p i n g b l o o d o n h e r

b r e a s t . Two erect cobras made the ornamen ts of her

c h e e k s , a n d a c r o w n o f g o l d a n d r e d , b a l o e d w i t h b l a c k

s m o k e - r a y s , w a s o n h e r h e a d . S h e h a d f o u r j e w e l l e d a r m s

a n d h a n d s - t w o b l o o d - r e d , o n e h e l d u p w a r d , t h e o t h e r

d o w n w a r d , t h e o t h e r s b e a r i n g r e s p e c t i v e l y a r a p i e r a n d

t h e h e a d i t h a d c u t o f f . H e r f o r m b e l o w t h e b r e a s t w a s i n

a s o r t o f p i t , w h e r e s e v e r a l p e o p l e s t o o d m a k i n g o f f e r i n g s .

W h i l e I w a s g a z i n g o n e o f t h e s e t u r n e d , a n d I b e h e l d

c l o s e b e s i d e K a l i ' s f e a r f u l f a c e a c o u n t e n a n c e t e n d e r a n d

l o v e l y e n o u g h f o r a M a d o n n a .

K a l i ' s i m a g e w a s t o o a n t i q u a t e d a n d i m p o s s i b l e t o

s h o c k m e v e r y m u c h , b u t t h e h o r r o r w a s t h a t s h e s h o u l d

b e w o r s h i p p e d , a n d c r u e l s a c r i f i c e s o f f e r e d . F o r t h e s p a c e

o f t w e n t y o r t h i r t y f e e t t h e p a v e m e n t w a s w e t w i t h b l o o d .

K i d s w e r e l y i n g a b o u t i n d y i n g c o n v u l s i o n s .

A t d i n n e r t h a t e v e n i n g t h e m e a t f i r s t s e r v e d w a s k i d ;

I c o u l d n o t t o u c h i t , a n d i t d i s g u s t e d m e w i t h a l l t h e

m e a t . F o r t h e f i r s t t i m e I p o n d e r e d w i t h i n t e r e s t w h a t

i s s a i d i n C o r i n t h i a n s o f e a t i n g t h i n g s o f f e r e d t o i d o l s .

P a u l ' s o b j e c t i o n ( 1 C o r . x , 2 0 ) , t h a t t h e G e n t i l e s a c r i -

f i c e s w e r e G 0 t o d e m o n s a n d n o t t o G o d , " a n d ' 1 y e c a n n o t

p a r t a k e o f t h e t a b l e o f t h e L o r d a n d o f t h e t a b l e o f

d e m o n s , " - t h e s u b s t i t u t i o n o f h u m a n s a c r i f i c e f o r a n -

i m a l s a c r i f i c e ,-s e t m e t o r e c o n s i d e r i n g t h e s t o r y o f t h e

v i o l e n c e o f J e s u s i n t h e t e m p l e , w h i c h I o n c e r e j e c t e d a s

p r e p o s t e r o u s .

A t s u c h s h r i n e s o n e s e e s m o s t l y t h e p i c k e d p e o p l e o f



249 MY PILGRIMAGE

s u p e r s t i t i o n c o l l e c t e d f r o m m a n y n e i g h b o u r h o o d s , a n d b y

n o m e a n s r e p r e s e n t a t i v e o f t h e c o u n t r y g e n e r a l l y . A n d

f o r t h e s e , t o o , i t s h o u l d b e s a i d t h a t K a l i , i n t h e i r h e a r t s ,

i s b y n o m e a n s s o b l a c k a s s h e i s p a i n t e d .

I n a s t r i c t s e n s e t h e r e c o u l d b e n o s u c h t h i n g a s d e v i l -

worship . A d e v i l , b e i n g p u r e e v i l , w i t h o u t a n y h e a r t a t

a l l , c o u l d n o t b e r e a c h e d m o r e t h a n a s t o n e b y a n a p p e a l

to compassion . D e m o n - w o r s h i p i s a d i f f e r e n t t h i n g . Dr .

R a j e n d r a l a l a M i t r a r e c a l l e d w i t h e m o t i o n t h a t o n h i s r e -

c o v e r y f r o m a d a n g e r o u s p l e u r i s y h e a c c o m p a n i e d h i s

a g e d m o t h e r t o K a l i g h a t , w h e r e t o t t e r i n g b e f o r e K a l i s h e

b a r e d h e r b o s o m a n d w i t h a k n i f e d r e w s o m e d r o p s o f

b l o o d b e t w e e n h e r b r e a s t s . T h i s w a s i n f u l f i l m e n t o f a

v o w m a d e d u r i n g h i s i l l n e s s . I t o c c u r r e d a b o u t 1 8 7 5 . I

o b s e r v e d n o s u c h c e r e m o n y a t K a l i g h a t , t h o u g h s u c h m a y

h a v e o c c u r r e d . T h a t a f e w d r o p s o f b l o o d a l o n e a r e s u f f i -

c i e n t s h o w s t h a t K a l i d o e s n o t f e e d o n i t , b u t a c c e p t s i t a s

a n e v i d e n c e o f r e s p e c t o r o f e a r n e s t n e s s . It is somewhat

l i k e t h e b a p t i s m a l s p r i n k l i n g , w h i c h n o l o n g e r m e a n s t o

m o s t p a r e n t s t h e a c t u a l e x o r c i s m o f a d e v i l f r o m t h e b a b e ,

b u t o n l y i t s c o n s e c r a t i o n .

T h e g o o d f a i r y o f o u r o w n E u r o p e a n m y t h o l o g y i s

sometimes disguised as a hag, and in Norse fable as a

d r a g o n , a n d t h e r e a r e s t o r i e s o f K a l i w h i c h s u g g e s t a s o f t

p l a c e i n h e r h e a r t . In Lal Be hari Day's " F o l k - T a l e s o f

B e n g a l " t h e r e i s o n e o f a d e a d c h i l d p l a c e d b y i t s m o t h e r

n e a r t h e s h r i n e o f K a l i a n d r e s t o r e d t o l i f e . Perhaps that

w o m a n w i t h t h e M a d o n n a f a c e w h o m I s a w m a k i n g o f -

f e r i n g s t o K a l i w a s p l e a d i n g w i t h t h e f i e r c e g o d d e s s f o r

s o m e l i t t l e s u f f e r e r a t h o m e .

It has often been remarked that it is the women who

m a i n l y a t t e n d c h u r c h e s a n d k e e p t h e m g o i n g . I n m y

M e t h o d i s t d a y s I h a d m a n y m o r e f e m a l e t h a n m a l e



IDOLS MISUNDERSTOOD 245

c o u l d f a n c y m y s e l f d i n i n g w i t h m y b r o t h e r O m a r i t e s o f

o u r O m a r K h a y a m C l u b i n L o n d o n . T h e H o n . M o u l o y

Mahomed Yusoof took me ou t in his carriag e, and the

o t h e r g u e s t s t h e M a h a r a j a h S i r J o g e n d r a M o h u n T a j o r e

B a h a d o o r , J o g e n d r a C h a n d r a G h o s h , M a h a r a j a h N a r e n d r a

K r i s h n a , K r i s t o d a s P a l , B a b o o J o y K i s s e n M o k e r j i a n d

h i s b r o t h e r P e a r y , C o u n c i l l o r S y e d A m e e r A l i , t h e b r i l -

l i a n t y o u n g l a w y e r s B a n n e r j i a n d C h a t t e r j i . They were

a l l f r i e n d s , m e n o f t h e w o r l d i n a h i g h s e n s e ; a n d i f , w i t h

t h e i r c u l t u r e , t h e i r r e f i n e d f a c e s a n d m a n n e r s , t h e y c o u l d

a l l b e t r a n s f e r r e d t o B o s t o n , t h e r e w o u l d b e a g l a d c r y t h e r e

t h a t i t s l i t e r a r y e r a h a d r e t u r n e d . Y e t t h e s e a r e t h e m e n t o

w h o m B o s t o n s e n d s m i s s i o n a r i e s ! N o d o z e n m i s s i o n a r i e s

i n I n d i a , w e r e t h e i r b r a i n s p a c k e d t o g e t h e r , c o u l d e q u a l a n y

o n e o f t h e s e h e a d s . T h e t a l k w a s m a i n l y o f E n g l i s h a n d

A m e r i c a n l i t e r a t u r e a n d p h i l o s o p h y , i n w h i c h t h e y w e r e

w e l l r e a d . L i t t l e w a s s a i d a b o u t r e l i g i o n , b u t I h a d s o m e

c o n v e r s a t i o n w i t h o n e b a r r i s t e r ( C h a t t e r j i , I t h i n k ) , a n a -

t i v e o f B e n a r e s , a b o u t t h e f e s t i v a l g o i n g o n a t K a l i g h a t .

I m e n t i o n e d t h e r e p u l s i o n I f e l t o n s e e i n g t h e s a c r i f i c e o f

k i d s , a n d t h a t I c o u l d n o t e a t t h e f l e s h w h e n o f f e r e d a t m y

h o t e l . H e s a i d t h e v u l g a r f a n a t i c i s m w a s e q u a l l y r e p u l s i v e

t o e d u c a t e d H i n d u s ; t h e n r e m a r k e d t h a t t h e r e w a s m i s -

u n d e r s t a n d i n g a m o n g f o r e i g n e r s o f w h a t t h e y c a l l " i d o l s . "

E v e n t h e h u m b l e p e o p l e d o n o t w o r s h i p t h e i m a g e s i n

t h e m s e l v e s . T h e i m a g e s a r e c o v e r e d w i t h s y m b o l i c a l o r n a -

m e n t s r e p r e s e n t i n g t h e c h a r a c t e r o r l e g e n d a r y d e e d s o f

t h i s o r t h a t d i v i n i t y . E a c h d i v i n i t y h a s a c e r t a i n d a y i n

t h e m o n t h , a n d a c e r t a i n h o u r , w h e n h e o r s h e e n t e r s

h i s o r h e r t e m p l e , a n d b y a t e m p o r a r y t r a n s u b s t a n t i a t i o n

e n t e r s t h e i m a g e . A f t e r r e c e i v i n g d u e o f f e r i n g s t h e d e i t y

d e p a r t s , a n d f r o m t h a t m o m e n t u n t i l t h e r e t u r n o f t h e i r

f e s t i v a l t h e i m a g e i s w i t h o u t a n y s a n c t i t y w h a t e v e r . I t



946 MY PILGRIMAGE

p o s s e s s e s n o c o n t i n u o u s s a n c t i t y l i k e t h e c r o s s . A f t e r t h e

b l o o d h a s b e e n s h e d b e f o r e K a l i s h e d e p a r t s , a n d t h e k i d s

m a y b e s o l d a n d e a t e n l i k e a n y o t h e r m e a t . " W e b o y s a t

B e n a r e s u s e d f o r f u n t o s t r i p a n d r o l l o u r s e l v e s i n t h e

b l o o d o f t h e k i d s , t h e n g o a n d p l u n g e i n t o a t a n k o r

s t r e a m f o r a s w i m . "

A l l t h i s t a l k w a s a c r o s s t h e t a b l e , h e a r d o f a l l t h e c i r c l e

i n w h i c h a l l r e l i g i o n s h a d t h e i r e v o l v e d r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s .

T h e r e w a s n o t h i n g s e c r e t , n o w h i s p e r s , b u t p e r f e c t f r e e -

d o m , s o t h a t o u r h o s t , t h e M o s l e m P r i n c e F u r r o k h S h a h ,

w a s p r e s i d i n g o v e r a s o r t o f A k b a r a s s e m b l y f r o m w h i c h

t h e p o l e m i c s h a d d i e d a w a y .

T h i s e x p e r i e n c e o f t h e R a t i o n a l i s t B r a h m a n b a r r i s t e r

i n t e r e s t e d m e s t i l l m o r e i n t h e g o d d e s s K a l i . I n m y

"Demonology an d Devil-Lore " my accoun t of Kali was

a c a d e m i c . T h e p i c t u r e ( v o l . i , f i g . 1 8 ) , c o p i e d f r o m a

H i n d u p r i n t , d o e s n o t r e p r e s e n t h e r a s w i t h o u t c o m e l i -

n e s s , a n d p r o b a b l y i t w a s c h i e f l y t h e s m e a r i n g s o f b l o o d

w h i c h m a d e t h e l a r g e i m a g e a t K a l i g h a t s o r e p u l s i v e ;

b u t I m u s t n o w s e e i n t h a t i m a g e o n l y a d e c o r a t e d a n -

t i q u e c a s k e t i n w h i c h a n i n v i s i b l e b e i n g e n t e r s a t c e r t a i n

t i m e s . T h e H i n d u s c h o l a r s w i t h w h o m I c o n v e r s e d c o u l d

n o t g i v e m e a n y i d e a o f t h a t i n v i s i b l e K a l i . S h e i s t r e a d -

i n g S i v a , h e r h u s b a n d , u n d e r h e r f e e t , - t h e l e g e n d b e i n g

t h a t h e t h r e w h i m s e l f t h e r e t o a r r e s t h e r d a n c e , t h a t

t h r e a t e n e d t o d e s t r o y t h e u n i v e r s e . The dance was for

j o y i n h a v i n g d e c a p i t a t e d t h e h u n d r e d h e a d s o f a g i a n t

d e m o n ( e u p h e m i s t i c a l l y d e m i g o d ) . S i v a h i m s e l f b e i n g t h e

g o d o f D e s t r u c t i o n , t h e m y t h t a k e n s t r i c t l y i s t h a t o f a

h o u s e d i v i d e d a g a i n s t i t s e l f . T h e p o s i t i o n o f S i v a i s t h a t

o f S a t a n u n d e r t h e a r c h a n g e l ' s f o o t . A s f o r h e r g i r d l e o f

b e a d s , t h e y a r e t h o s e o f t h e m a n y - b e a d e d d e m o n s h e h a d

d e s t r o y e d b e f o r e S i v a c o u l d s t o p h e r d a n g e r o u s d a n c e .



MAN'S ABDICATION 247

W h a t o f K a l i ' s r i g h t h a n d , r a i s e d u p w a r d i n b e n e -

d i c t i o n ? A s I s a t a t m i d n i g h t o n m y h o t e l p o r t i c o , I s a w

a g a i n a s i n a d r e a m t h a t M a d o n n a - l i k e w o m a n w h o s t o o d

n e a r e s t t o t h e g o d d e s s a t K a l i g b a t ; a n d a m i d t h e o u t -

w a r d s i l e n c e a s t i l l s m a l l v o i c e s a i d t o m y i n w a r d e a r ,

" I am Ka li . W h e n , i n a n a g e f a r p a s t , p r o p h e t s a r o s e

t o t e l l m a n k i n d t h a t t h e i r a g o n i e s w e r e i n f l i c t e d b y c r u e l

a n d h e a r t l e s s d e i t i e s , I w e n t f o r t h , a p r i n c e s s t u r n e d

p r o p h e t e s s , t o p o i n t t h e s u f f e r e r s u p w a r d t o a p a r a d i s e

w h e r e a l l t h e i r s o r r o w s w o u l d b e c o m p e n s a t e d , a n d a l l

t e a r s w i p e d a w a y . ' A f t e r d e a t h ? ' t h e p e o p l e c r i e d ; ' w h y

n o t n o w ? ' T h e n I w e n t i n t o r e t r e a t , a n d r e f l e c t i o n , t o

r e a p p e a r w i t h t h e f a i t h t h a t a l l h u m a n a g o n i e s a n d e v i l s

a r e d i s g u i s e s o f a u n i v e r s a l m a t e r n a l l o v e w h i c h b y s u c h

t e r r i b l e d i s c i p l i n e t r a i n s t h e s u f f e r e r s f o r e t e r n a l f e l i c i t y .

A l a s , t h a t h e a v e n w a r d h a n d d r e w o n t h e t h r e e h a n d s o f

d e s t r u c t i o n a s s i g n e d m e a f t e r d e a t h . M y c a s k e t w a s c o v -

e r e d e q u a l l y w i t h f l o w e r s a n d w i t h t h e s y m b o l s o f f e r o c i t y

a n d d i s e a s e i n n a t u r e . I b a d b y m y o p t i m i s m c o n s e c r a t e d

t h e h o r r o r s o f t h i s p r e d a t o r y w o r l d . You see me pede s-

t a l l e d o n t h e g e n i u s o f D e s t r u c t i o n , w h o m m y l o v e s h o u l d

h a v e t r o d d e n d o w n . A h , t h o u t r a v e l l e r u n k n o w n , t h e f a t a l

t e a c h i n g i n t h i s w o r l d i s t h a t a l l i s u n d e r d i v i n e P r o v i -

d e n c e , a n d a l l e v i l g o o d a t h e a r t . T h a t i s m a n ' s a b d i -

c a t i o n ! "



C H A P T E R X I I

E x p l o r i n g B e n g a l - A c o n f e r e n c e o f r e l i g i o n s -M o s l e m C h r i s t i a n i t y -Dr . R d j e n d r a l g l a M i t r a o n C h r i s t i a n p o l y t h e i s m -H o n . S y e d A m e e r A l i

- Dr An a n d a Cu m a r a S w a m y - T h e m a r v e l l o u s d o l l s - M a h a ra j a h

S i r J o t e n d r a M o h u n T a j o r e -The demonized B uddha -B uddha-Gaya

-R o o t o f B u d d h a ' s B o - t r e e - L e t t e r f r o m D r . M i t r a - B u d d h i s t - H i n d u -

p h i l o s o p h y -B e n a r e s -M o n k e y T e m p l e -D e e r P a r k a n d l e g e n d o f t h e

M a n g o G i r l - " T h e T o y - C a r t " - O u r W e s t e r n B u d d h a .

SI R W I L L I A M H UN T E R c a m e i n h i s c a r r i a g e o n e

day and said, " I i n t e n d t o s h o w y o u B e n g a l . " I

had only a day or two more in Calcutta, but my simple

f a i t h i n t h e G a z e t t e e r - g e n e r a l o f I n d i a p r e v e n t e d m y h a v -

i n g a n y d o u b t a b o u t h i s a b i l i t y t o s h o w m e a g r e a t p r o v i n c e

i n t h a t t i m e . W e d r o v e n e a r l y t e n m i l e s i n t o t h e c o u n t r y ,

a n d v i s i t e d t h e h o m e s o f s e v e r a l h u m b l e H i n d u f a m i l i e s o f

which he knew something . S i r W i l l i a m t o l d t h e m i n t h e i r

o w n l a n g u a g e t h a t h e w i s h e d m e t o s e e t h e i n t e r i o r o f t h e

h o u s e s , a n d t h e s e w e r e c h e e r f u l l y s h o w n . E v e n t h e w o m e n

( m o s t o f t h e m c o m e l y ) w e r e n o t s h y o f u s ; t h e y s m i l i n g l y

m a d e a h a l f m o v e m e n t a s i d e b u t n o t o u t o f s i g h t ; a n d i t

w a s e s p e c i a l l y n o t a b l e t h a t t h o s e w h o i n t h e h o t w e a t h e r

b a d s c a n t y c l o t h i n g d i d n o t s h o w a n y c o n s c i o u s n e s s o f t h a t

a t a l l . In one house a woman scampered out of sight in

e a r n e s t , b u t i t w a s b e c a u s e h e r f a t h e r - i n - l a w h a d c o m e i n

a t t h e g a t e . I n no case must a wife meet her husband's

f a t h e r !

T h e h o u s e s w e r e p o o r t o l o o k a t , b u t c o m f o r t a b l e e n o u g h

i n s i d e . One man took us to see a curious thing in the

w o o d s n e a r h i s h o u s e ,-n e n o r m o u s s t o n e , a b o u t t e n f e e t

s q u a r e a n d m o r e t h a n t w o t h i c k , h e l d s e v e n f e e t i n t h e a i r



250 MY PILGRIMAGE

t h e i r r i c h l y t u r b a n e d h e a d s t o g e t h e r i n p r i v a t e c o n s u l t a.

t i o n . A t l e n g t h o n e o f t h e m a r o s e a n d s a i d t h a t t h e y a l l

f e l t " b o u n d t o a c c e p t t h e n a r r a t i v e j u s t a s i t s t a n d s i n

i n t h e N e w T e s t a m e n t . "

A s t h e M o s l e m s w e r e t h e o n l y o r t h o d o x C h r i s t i a n s p r e -

s e n t , b u t w o u l d n o t a r g u e a b o u t t h e i r f a i t h , o u r c o n f e r -

e n c e a m o u n t e d o n l y t o a h i g h a p p r e c i a t i o n o n t h e p a r t o f

t h e P a n d i t s o f E n g l i s h s c i e n c e a n d l i t e r a t u r e , r e s p o n d e d

t o b y o u r e x a l t a t i o n o f t h e s a c r e d b o o k s a n d p o e m s o f

I n d i a . T h e m o s t n o t a b l e t h i n g w a s t h a t i n a l a r g e c o m -

p a n y i n C a l c u t t a , o f w h i c h a t h i r d w e r e i n f l u e n t i a l a n d

o f f i c i a l E n g l i s h m e n , t h e o n l y b e l i e v e r s i n C h r i s t i a n s u p e r -

n a t u r a l i s m w e r e t h e M o s l e m s ! I w a s a l s o i m p r e s s e d b y

t h e f a m i l i a r i t y o f t h e B r a h m a n s w i t h a l l t h o s e v i t a l p r o b -

lems with which we were so occupied in Europe a n d

A m e r i c a , - d i v i n e e x i s t e n c e , f a t e , f r e e d o m , a n i m i s m , i m -

m o r t a l i t y , - t h e s e i s s u e s b e i n g r a i s e d i n t h e i r o w n p h i l o -

s o p h i c a l s y s t e m s . D i s c u s s i o n s , i n t h e w e s t e r n w o r l d h a v e

n o d o u b t r e v i v e d t h e i n t e r e s t o f H i n d u t h i n k e r s i n s u c h

q u e s t i o n s , b u t h a v e g i v e n t h e m n o i d e a n o t f o u n d i n t h e i r

o w n a n c i e n t b o o k s .

J a m e s S i m e , b i o g r a p h e r o f L e s s i n g , t o l d m e t h a t o n

S c h o p e n h a u e r ' s l a s t d a y h e s a i d , " I a m B u d d h a ! " Those

a r o u n d h i m s u p p o s e d t h a t h i s m i n d w a s w a n d e r i n g , b u t

t h e p e s s i m i s t ' s w o r d s h a d m e a n i n g . Dr . R h y s D a v i d s s a y s

" G o t a m a B u d d h a w a s t h e A u g u s t e C o m t e b o r n t w o t h o u -

s a n d y e a r s t o o s o o n , " b u t I s h o u l d r a t h e r d e s c r i b e h i m , a s

t h e S c h o p e n h a u e r o f t h a t t i m e .

T h e v e n e r a b l e a u t h o r , D r . R a j e n d r a l a l a M i t r a , w a s u n -

a b l e t o a t t e n d t h e c o n f e r e n c e , b u t r e q u e s t e d m e t o v i s i t h i m .

I f o u n d h i m i n h i s l a r g e f i n e l i b r a r y , a n d b u t f o r h i s c o m -

p l e x i o n I m i g h t h a v e f a n c i e d m y s e l f c o n v e r s i n g w i t h s o m e

e m i n e n t o r i e n t a l i s t i n E u r o p e . H e w a s s i m p l y t h e p h i l o -



252 MY PILGRIMAGE

adds : "To persons deluded by ascetic works and by

s a c r i f i c e s I s h a l l s h o w t h e d e s t r u c t i o n o f a l l w o r k s a n d

s a c r i f i c e s . "

Dr . R a j e n d r a l a l a M i t r a e n r i c h e d m e b y s e n d i n g t o m y

l o d g i n g s h i s g r e a t w o r k o n t h e A r y a n r a c e a n d t h a t o n

B u d d h a - G a y a , w h i c h I w a s a b o u t t o v i s i t . I n o n e o f h i s

v o l u m e s I r e m a r k e d a s i g n i f i c a n t m i s t r a n s l a t i o n o f a

c o u p l e t i n a n o l d M e t h o d i s t h y m n : -

T h e w o r l d i s a l l a f l e e t i n g s h o w

F o r m a n ' s i l l u s i o n g i v e n .

T h e w o r d i n t h e h y m n i s d e l u s i o n , a n d t h e m e a n i n g i s a s

f a r f r o m t h e o r i e n t a l d o c t r i n e o f i l l u s i o n a s t h e E a s t i s

f r o m t h e W e s t . '

A l t h o u g h , a s I h a v e s a i d , i t i s r a r e t o f i n d a s c e p t i c a l

M o s l e m , t h e r e i s i n I n d i a a r a t i o n a l i s t i c s e c t ( M u t a r z a -

l i t e ) w h o s e c h i e f i n t e r p r e t e r i s S y e d A m e e r A l i . I t w a s

p l e a s a n t i n d e e d t o m e e t i n C a l c u t t a S y e d A m e e r A l i , w h o s e

f r i e n d s h i p I h a d e n j o y e d i n L o n d o n , a n d w h o s e i d e a s

w e r e s o i n d i v i d u a l a n d h i s s p i r i t s o s w e e t t h a t h e h a d

o f t e n s u g g e s t e d t o m e t h e r e f i n e d S u f i M o h a m m e d a n i s m

o f P e r s i a w h i c h o n e b r e a t h e s i n t h e R o s e - G a r d e n o f S a a d i ,

-the G° G u l i s t a n . "

W h e n S y e d A m e e r A l i w a s a l a w s t u d e n t a t t h e I n n e r

T e m p l e , L o n d o n , h e w a s o f t e n a t o u r h o u s e ; w e l o v e d h i m ,

a n d h i s b e a u t i f u l s p i r i t s e e m e d t o t r a n s f u s e h i s f a c e , f o r m ,

v o i c e , m a n n e r , -h i s e n t i r e b e i n g . A t t h a t t i m e h e w r o t e

" A C r i t i c a l E x a m i n a t i o n o f t h e L i f e a n d T e a c h i n g s o f

Mohammed" (1873), which I found a delightful book ;

i t r a i s e d a l l I s l a m -w h i c h I b a d d e e m e d a h a r d e a s t e r n

Calvinism - i n m y e s t e e m t h a t s u c h a m a n c o u l d l o v e

i t , a n d d r a w s o m u c h t r u t h a n d b e a u t y o u t o f i t . I s t i l l

1 1906. T h e h y m n i s o m i t t e d i n t h e n e w A m e r i c a n M e t h o d i s t h y m n a l .



SYED AMEER ALI Q53

r e g a r d t h i s l i t t l e b o o k a s t h e b e s t k n o w n t o m e o n t h e

s u b j e c t .

T h e y o u n g a u t h o r a n d b a r r i s t e r - o f f a i r e r c o m p l e x i o n

t h a n m o s t H i n d u s -f e l l i n l o v e w i t h a y o u n g E n g l i s h

l a d y , M i s s K o h n s t r a m - w h o w i t h h e r m o t h e r s o m e t i m e s

c a m e t o m y c h a p e l , -a n d h i s l o v e w a s r e q u i t e d . H e r

m o t h e r c a m e t o c o n v e r s e w i t h m y w i f e a n d m y s e l f a b o u t

S y e d A m e e r A l i p e r s o n a l l y , a n d a s k e d w h a t I t h o u g h t o f

t h e w i s d o m o f m a r r i a g e b e t w e e n a n E n g l i s h l a d y a n d a n

I n d i a n . H o w w a s h e r o r h i s s o c i a l p o s i t i o n l i k e l y t o b e

a f f e c t e d i n I n d i a ? M y w i f e a n d I h a d h e a r d n o t h i n g a b o u t

t h e m a t t e r f r o m h i m , a n d i t w a s b y a s p o n t a n e o u s o u t -

b u r s t t h a t w e b o t h d e c l a r e d t h a t a f t e r k n o w i n g h i m f o r

s o m e y e a r s w e c o n s i d e r e d h i m w o r t h y e v e n o f h e r c u l t u r e d

a n d f a i r d a u g h t e r . F o r t h e r e s t I d i d n o t b e l i e v e t h a t a n y

v u l g a r r a c e - p r e j u d i c e w o u l d b e f o u n d i n C a l c u t t a a m o n g

t h o s e w h o s e a c q u a i n t a n c e c o u l d b e o f a n y v a l u e t o e i t h e r

o f t h e m .

W h e n I v i s i t e d C a l c u t t a A m e e r A l i w a s a m e m b e r

o f t h e S u p r e m e L e g i s l a t i v e C o u n c i l . I n t h e i r b e a u t i f u l

home hearty welcome was given me, though I do n o t

k n o w t o t h i s d a y w h e t h e r t h e y w e r e a w a r e t h a t I h a d

b e e n c o n s u l t e d a b o u t t h e m a r r i a g e . I s a w t h a t i t h a d

p r o v e d a n i d e a l m a r r i a g e ; h a p p i n e s s w a s w r i t t e n o n t h e i r

f a c e s ; t h e y w e r e s u r r o u n d e d b y t h e m o s t i n t e l l e c t u a l p e o -

p l e , a n d c o u l d p i c k a n d c h o o s e t h e i r a c q u a i n t a n c e s i n

" s o c i e t y . "

I s h o u l d a d d t h a t I o b s e r v e d s e v e r a l H i n d u l a d i e s a t

r e c e p t i o n s i n C a l c u t t a , a n d t h a t t h e r e a p p e a r e d n o s i g n

o f c o l o u r - p r e j u d i c e . T h e H i n d u l a d i e s m u s t h a v e d i s t i n -

g u i s h e d t h e m s e l v e s b y e m a n c i p a t i o n f r o m t h e r e s t r i c t i o n s

o f t h e z e n a n a a n d w e r e r a t h e r l i o n i z e d . B u t a n i n t e r m a r -

r i a g e b e t w e e n o n e o f t h e r u l i n g r a c e a n d o n e o f t h e r u l e d



Q54 MY PILGRIMAGE

r a c e , a t t h e v e r y m o m e n t w h e n r e f o r m e r s w e r e d e m a n d -

i n g i n c r e a s e d r i g h t s f o r t h e n a t i v e s , c o u l d h a r d l y f a i l t o

e x c i t e m i s g i v i n g s o f t h e ` 1 c o n s e r v a t i v e s . " T h e p e r s o n a l

e q u a t i o n , h o w e v e r , w a s t o o p o t e n t i n t h i s c a s e f o r a n y m a n -

i f e s t a t i o n o f r e l i g i o u s o r r a c e p r e j u d i c e s . '

A g e n t l e m a n l y y o u n g E n g l i s h t r a v e l l e r w h o m I c h a n c e d

1 1908 . A m e e r A l i h a s b a d a u n i q u e c a r e e r . I n 1 8 7 9 h e w a s a p p o i n t e d

C h i e f P r e s i d e n c y M a g i s t r a t e; he sat for several years in the Bengal

Legislative Council, and in 1884 was appointed by Lord Ripon to the

I m p e r i a l C o u n c i l ; he was created by Lord Dufferin Companion of the

Indian Empire ; i n 1 8 9 0 h e w a s a t L o r d L a n s d o w n e ' s r e q u e s t a p p o i n t e d a

J u s t i c e o f t h e H i g h C o u r t . I n a l l o f t h e s e p o s i t i o n s A m e e r A l i ' s s e r v i c e s

w e r e u n i v e r s a l l y r e c o g n i z e d , a n d a t t h e s a m e t i m e h e h a s w r i t t e n w o r k s

o f t h e m o s t p a i n s t a k i n g c h a r a c t e r a n d t h e h i g h e s t v a l u e : " T h e M a h o m -

m e d a n L a w ; " " Personal L aw of the M ahommedans ; " " T h e S p i r i t o f

Islam ; " " T h e E t h i c s o f I s l a m ; " " A S h o r t H i s t o r y o f t h e S a r a c e n s . " I n

1 9 0 4 J u s t i c e A m e e r A l i r e t i r e d f r o m t h e b e n c h a n d i s a t p r e s e n t i n E n g -

l a n d ( w h e r e h i s s o n s a r e a t c o l l e g e ) a n d e n g a g e d o n a " H i s t o r y o f M a -

h o m m e d a n C i v i l i z a t i o n i n I n d i a ." He is the only M ohammedan author,

a n d i t i s a h a p p y e v e n t t h a t h e c a n d e v o t e h i m s e l f t o l i t e r a t u r e .

F r o m t h e D u f f e r i n s a n d f r o m S i r W i l l i a m H u n t e r I h e a r d o f t h e h i g h

e s t e e m i n w h i c h J u s t i c e A l i a n d h i s w i f e w e r e h e l d . T h e i r h o u s e w a s a

f a v o u r i t e s o c i a l c e n t r e , a n d M r s . A m e e r A l i ' s F r i d a y r e c e p t i o n s a n d h e r

p a r t i e s a l w a y s d r e w t h e b e s t p e o p l e t o g e t h e r .

A n o t h e r i n t e r m a r r i a g e w h i c h m u c h i n t e r e s t e d m e w a s t h a t o f t h e l a t e

Sir Mutu Cumara Swamy of Ceylon with a beautiful lady of my London

c h a p e l ( M i s s E l i z a b e t h B e e b y ) . To this I have alluded in my seventh

c h a p t e r i n c o n n e c t i o n w i t h t h e b r i l l i a n t e n t e r t a i n m e n t s g i v e n m e b y h i s

n e p h e w s . T h e s e g e n t l e m e n a r e n o w t h e c h i e f r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s o f t h e a n c i e n t

r u l i n g r a c e -T a m i l -i n C e y l o n . T h e w i d o w o f S i r M u t u I r e m e m b e r r e -

t u r n i n g t o L o n d o n w i t h h e r p r e t t y l i t t l e b o y ; a n d b y a l e t t e r I h a v e j u s t

r e c e i v e d f r o m H o n . P . A r u n g c h a l a m I l e a r n t h a t t h i s b o y , A n a n d a C u m a r a

Swamy, has made a name for himself in Science (D . S c . L o u d . , F . L . S ,

F . S . S . ) , a n d i s n o w e m p l o y e d i n C e y l o n a s D i r e c t o r o f t h e M i n e r a l o g i c a l

S u r v e y . H e h a s a l s o e d i t e d , i n c o n n e c t i o n w i t h a n o t h e r a b l e m a n , W . A .

d e S i l v a , " T h e C e y l o n N a t i o n a l R e v i e w , " a n o r g a n o f t h e C e y l o n S o c i a l

Reform Society, which aims to prevent the Sinhalese and Tamils from

b e i n g w e s t e r n i z e d o r C h r i s t i a n i z e d , a n d t o l i b e r a t e w o m e n f r o m t h e s o c i a l

s e c l u s i o n ( t h e " p u r d a h , i n I n d i a " zenana " ) w h i c h w a s " b o r r o w e d f r o m

the Mohammedan conquerors of India . "



THE MARVELLOUS DOLLS 2 5 5

t o m e e t t o l d m e t h a t h e h a d s e e n a H i n d u c u t a b o y t o

p i e c e s w i t h h i s s w o r d , t h e n t h r o w t h e s e v e r e d l i m b s i n a

bag ; i n a m i n u t e t h e b o y c a m e r u n n i n g u p , a n d t h e b a g

was opened and found empty . " C a n y o u b e l i e v e t h a t ? "

h e a s k e d . " N o , " I r e p l i e d . " N o r c a n I , " s a i d h e ; " I b e -

l i e v e t h e c o n j u r e r m e s m e r i z e d m e . " " Yo u w o u l d h a v e

s e i z e d t h e a s s a i l a n t a t t h e f i r s t g a s h , " I s a i d . " Y e s , c e r -

t a i n l y , i f I h a d b e e n i n m y s e n s e s . " I w a s s c e p t i c a l a b o u t

t h e e x a c t n e s s o f t h i s t e s t i m o n y , k n o w i n g n o t h i n g o f t h e

, w i t n e s s ; a n d i f h e s h o u l d s e e t h i s p a g e h e w i l l b e e q u a l l y

s c e p t i c a l a b o u t t h e " d o l l t r i c k " w h i c h I s a w i n C a l c u t t a .

H a v i n g t w o v i s i t s t o m a k e t o e m i n e n t p e r s o n a g e s , D r .

H u n t e r p l a c e d h i s c a r r i a g e a t m y d i s p o s a l , a n d a l s o h i s

s e c r e t a r y , a n i n t e l l i g e n t B a b u w h o s p o k e E n g l i s h . As we

w e r e d r i v i n g a l o n g t h e s t r e e t I s a w a t e n t i n a n o p e n

s p a c e , b e s i d e w h i c h a m a n w a s s h o u t i n g , a c r o w d o f b o y s

p r e s s i n g a r o u n d h i m . T h e B a b u s a i d i t w a s a c o n j u r e r ,

a n d I a s k e d t o b e d r i v e n t o t h e t e n t . The Babu evi-

d e n t l y d i d n o t t h i n k i t w a s s u i t e d t o o u r d i g n i t y ; b u t I

w a s e a g e r , a n d t h e d r i v e r w i t h s o m e a s t o n i s h m e n t o b e y e d

t h e o r d e r . T h e c o n j u r e r , o v e r w h e l m e d b y s e e i n g a f i n e

c a r r i a g e w i t h l i v e r i e d c o a c h m a n a p p r o a c h , b e a t o f f t h e

b o y s w i t h a s t i c k , a n d b o w e d t o t h e g r o u n d . T h e s h o w

h a d n o t o p e n e d , a n d t h e B a b u a n d m y s e l f h a d t h e t e n t

a l l t o o u r s e l v e s . I t c o n t a i n e d a p l a i n w o o d e n t a b l e w i t h -

o u t c o v e r o r a n y h a n g i n g s a r o u n d i t . N o t h i n g e l s e w a s

i n t h e t e n t , w h i c h w a s a b o u t t w e n t y f e e t i n d i a m e t e r ,

w i t h o u t f l o o r a n d o p e n a t t h e t o p . I t w a s f l o o d e d w i t h

t h e n o o n l i g h t . T h e c o n j u r e r , w h o w o r e o n l y a l o i n - c l o t h ,

w e n t o u t a t t h e b a c k a n d r e t u r n e d w i t h h i s d o u b l e d h a n d s

f i l l e d w i t h t i n y f i g u r e s , e a c h a b o u t t w o i n c h e s h i g h , w i t h

s t r a w l e g s , s e a l i n g - w a x b e a d s , a n d b u t t o n s t o s t a n d o n .

H e s t o o d t h e m a l l i n t h e c e n t r e o f t h e w o o d e n t a b l e , t h e n



9 , 5 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

s t o o d o f f t w o y a r d s a n d t a l k e d t o t h e m . P r e s e n t l y t h e y

b e g a n t o s t i r , t o m o v e , t o d a n c e . W a v i n g a l i t t l e w a n d ,

b e a t i n g t i m e , b u t n e v e r c o m i n g w i t h i n t w o y a r d s o f t h e m ,

- t a l k i n g t o t h e m a l l t h e t i m e , - h e m a d e t h e m d a n c e i n

e v e r y d i r e c t i o n . I e x a m i n e d t h e t a b l e a b o v e a n d b e n e a t h ,

a n d p a s s e d m y a r m a b o v e t h e d o l l s t o d i s c o v e r w h e t h e r

t h e r e m i g h t n o t b e i n v i s i b l e t h r e a d s a t t a c h e d t o t h e m .

T h e c o n j u r e r , t h r o u g h t h e B a b u , a s k e d m e w h e r e I w i s h e d

t h e m t o d a n c e , a n d t h e y m o v e d i n e v e r y d i r e c t i o n I i n d i -

c a t e d . I r e q u e s t e d t h a t t w o s h o u l d s e p a r a t e f r o m t h e r e s t

a n d d a n c e a p a r t , t h e o t h e r s r e m a i n i n g s t a t i o n a r y . T h i s

w a s d o n e . F i n a l l y b e d e s i r e d m e t o p u t a p e n n y o n t h e

t a b l e ; t h e p e n n y d a n c e d a c r o s s t h e t a b l e a n d p i t c h e d

i t s e l f i n t o a l i t t l e b o x . T h i s w a s t h e m o s t i n e x p l i c a b l e

p e r f o r m a n c e I e v e r s a w .

T h e m a n w h o e x h i b i t s t h e d o l l s p e r f o r m s n o t h i n g e l s e .

T h e B a b u w a s t r o u b l e d a t m y g i v i n g t h e c o n j u r e r t w o

r u p e e s , -t w o o r t h r e e c o w r i e s b e i n g t h e u s u a l f e e , -b u t

s a i d i t w a s t h e m o s t w o n d e r f u l p e r f o r m a n c e k n o w n i n

I n d i a , t h e s e c r e t b e i n g k e p t c l o s e . I t i s t h e o n l y t r i c k I

h a v e e v e r s e e n o f w h i c h I c a n i m a g i n e n o e x p l a n a t i o n .

W e d r o v e f r o m t h e t e n t t o t h e h o u s e o f t h e d i s t i n g u i s h e d

Maharajah, Sir Jotendra Mohun Tajore, K . C . S . I . , w h o

c o u l d n o t s u g g e s t a n y e x p l a n a t i o n , t h o u g h h e h a d s e e n

t h r o u g h a t r i c k w i t h w h i c h M m e . B l a v a t s k y t r i e d t o d e -

c e i v e h i m . T h e M a h a r a j a h d i d n o t g o i n t o t h e p a r t i c u -

l a r s o f t h i s a t t e m p t , a n d a p p e a r e d t o b e d i s a p p o i n t e d t h a t

T h e o s o p h y h a d t u r n e d o u t a n i m p o s t u r e .

I f M m e . B l a v a t s k y h a d b e e n a n i m a t e d b y a n y s e r i o u s o r

r e l i g i o u s p u r p o s e s h e w o u l d h a v e k n o w n t h a t i t c o u l d n o t

b e f u r t h e r e d i n I n d i a b y m i r a c l e s , e v e n w e r e t h e y g e n u i n e .

E d u c a t e d H i n d u s a r e t o o f a m i l i a r w i t h s u c h s i g n s a n d

w o n d e r s t o c a r e f o r t h e m , a n d w h e r e b e l i e v e d t h e y a r e



SHRINE AT BUDDHA-GAYA 957

a s s o c i a t e d w i t h t h e d a r k a n d e v i l p o w e r s r a t h e r t h a n w i t h

r e l i g i o n . T h e o s o p h y m i g h t h a v e a t t a i n e d a l a r g e s u c c e s s

i n I n d i a b u t f o r i t s v u l g a r i z a t i o n b y c o u n t e r f e i t i n g t h e

s u p e r s t i t i o n s t h a t g i v e r i s e t o s u c h f a n a t i c i s m s a s t h o s e

a t K a l i g h a t , o f w h i c h e d u c a t e d I n d i a i s a s h a m e d . Su ch

p o w e r f o r e v i l a s S a t a n h a d o v e r J o b , V i s v a m i t r a a l s o h a d

o v e r H a r i s c h a n d r a , t h e I n d i a n J o b . T h e l e a r n e d y o g i w e

f o u n d a t K a l i g h a t , w h o s a i d ," Only Christ could work

m i r a c l e s , " n e v e r t h o u g h t o f b e l i e v i n g C h r i s t i a n i t y o n t h a t

a c c o u n t .

F r o m C a l c u t t a I j o u r n e y e d t o t h e m o s t s a c r e d p l a c e i n

B u d d h i s t t r a d i t i o n , B u d d h a - G a y a . I t h e r e f o u n d a n o t a -

b l e l e g e n d a r y i l l u s t r a t i o n o f t h e t o t a l s e p a r a t i o n b e t w e e n

p r e t e r n a t u r a l p o w e r a n d h o l i n e s s i n t h e a n c i e n t t h e o l o g i -

c a l m i n d . O n a h i l l c a l l e d B h u r m o i l l a ( H o l y S t o n e ) t h e r e

i s a n a n c i e n t s h r i n e w i t h t h e f o l l o w i n g h i s t o r y : A c e r t a i n

d e m o n a c q u i r e d b y p r o l o n g e d r i t e s a n d a u s t e r i t i e s c e l e s -

t i a l p o w e r s i n a d d i t i o n t o h i s i n f e r n a l p o w e r s , a n d t h e r e b y

c a u s e d t h e a l t a r s t o b e d e s e r t e d . T h e g o d s t h e r e f o r e u n i t e d

t o b u r y t h e " h o l y d e m o n , " a n d p l a c e o n h i s h e a d a h u g e

s t o n e t o k e e p h i m d o w n . S h o u l d t h a t s t o n e b e r o l l e d a w a y

t h e w h o l e c o u n t r y w o u l d b e o v e r w h e l m e d b y t h e s u p e r -

d i v i n e p o w e r o f t h e d e m o n a n d t h e t e m p l e s a l l g o t o r u i n .

T h e r e i s a l w a y s t h i s d a n g e r , f o r t h e s t o n e h a s t o b e h e l d

i n i t s p l a c e b y a n e x c e p t i o n a l n u m b e r o f o f f e r i n g s a n d

s a c r i f i c e s e v e r y y e a r . T h e r e i s a f o o t p r i n t o f V i s h n u o n

t h e s t o n e , b u t m e a n w h i l e V i s h n u , u n d e r h i s f o r m o f J u g -

g e n a u t h , i s b r i n g i n g b a c k t h e " h o l y d e m o n " i n t o I n d i a a s

h i s l a t e s t a n d h i g h e s t a v a t a r . F o r R a j e n d r a l a l a M i t r a h a s

f u l l y i d e n t i f i e d t h e " h o l y d e m o n " a s B u d d h a h i m s e l f , a n d

i n t h e v e r y t o w n c o n s e c r a t e d b y h i s s p i r i t u a l b i r t h t h e r e

r e m a i n s t h i s l e g e n d a r y s t o n e - w i t n e s s t o h i s c o n t e m p o r a r y

r e c e p t i o n a s o n e w h o 11 h a t h a d e v i l 1 "



THE TEMPLE AT GAYA 259

c o u l d n e v e r h a v e b e e n p o p u l o u s . T h e s p o t m u s t h a v e b e e n

g e n u i n e l y a s s o c i a t e d w i t h S a k y a m u n i . T h e t e m p l e i t s e l f i s

s u r r o u n d e d b y t h e p o p p y , -t h e p l a n t t h a t c a n s u r r o u n d

t h e b r a i n w i t h i n s u b s t a n t i a l v i s i o n s , o r s o m e t i m e s b r i n g t o

i n s o m n i a a n d p a i n t h e i r N i r v a n a . A l s o t h e r e i s t h e M o w a -

t r e e , w i t h i t s f e a t h e r y f l o w e r , w h i c h b e a r s g r a p e - l i k e f r u i t ;

t h i s m i x e d w i t h j a g g r e e ( m o l a s s e s ) a n d s t e a m e d y i e l d s a n

i n t o x i c a t i n g l i q u o r . C a s t o r o i l t r e e s , t o o , a b o u n d . These

n a s t y t r e e s , - d i d t h e e v i l M a r a p l a n t t h e m , a f t e r h i s

f a i l u r e t o s u b d u e B u d d h a , t o s u c k a w a y s a p f r o m t h e B o -

t r e e s ? O f t h e s e n o t o n e c o u l d I d i s c o v e r .

( T h e o n l y e d i f i c e a t G a y a l a r g e r t h a n t h e t e m p l e i s t h e

p r i s o n ( E n g l i s h ) i n w h i c h t h e m a l e f a c t o r s o f m a n y r e g i o n s

a r e i n c a r c e r a t e d . I w a s t o l d t h e r e w e r e i n i t t h e n ( 1 8 8 4 )

f o u r t h o u s a n d p r i s o n e r s . )

M y r e a d e r w i l l r e m e m b e r t h a t t h e y o u n g P r i n c e S a k y a ,

o v e r w h e l m e d b y s e e i n g t h e a g o n i e s o f t h e w o r l d , r e p e l l e d

b y t h e p i o u s f a b l e s a n d p h a n t a s m s s u p p l e m e n t i n g t h e

t o r t u r e s o f n a t u r e , f l e d f r o m h i s f a t h e r ' s p a l a c e , a n d

w a n d e r e d a w a y t o a l o n e l y s p o t t o t r y a n d t h i n k o u t t h e

t r u t h o f t h i n g s . A n c i e n t t r a d i t i o n p l a c e s h e r e , w h e r e

t h e o l d e s t B u d d h i s t t e m p l e i n t h e w o r l d s t o o d , t h e B o -

t r e e u n d e r w h i c h h e s a t o n t h e g r a s s , a n d a t t a i n e d t h e

" e n l i g h t e n m e n t " t h a t g a v e h i m t h e t i t l e " B u d d h a . "

T h e w o r k o n t h e t e m p l e w a s n o t y e t c o m p l e t e d . T h e

o r i g i n a l p l a n o f t h e c e n t r a l e d i f i c e w a s m a d e o u t b y t h e

s t u d i e s i n I n d i a a r c h i t e c t u r e o f D r . R a j e n d r a l a l a M i t r a ,

a n d w a s n e a r l y f i n i s h e d . B u t t h e b u i l d i n g s c o n n e c t e d w i t h

t h i s y e l l o w t o w e r - l i k e t e m p l e -t w o h u n d r e d f e e t h i g h-b a d c o v e r e d s e v e r a l a c r e s , a n d t h e g r o u n d w a s s t r e w n w i t h

t h e i r f r a g m e n t s . T h e s e a n n e x e s c a n n e v e r b e r e s t o r e d .

S i r W i l l i a m H u n t e r h a d g i v e n m e a n o t e t o t h e E n g l i s h

e n g i n e e r e m p l o y e d b y t h e A s i a t i c S o c i e t y , M r . J . D . B e g -



2 6 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

l e r , w h o i n t r o d u c e d m e t o a l e a r n e d H i n d u , G o p e l C h u n -

d e r M o k e r j e e , a n d a B u d d h i s t p r i e s t , M a h o n t H a m m r e i n j a l .

With these I examined the many small figures and sym-

bols with which every square foot of the locality was

covered . B u t b e f o r e d o i n g t h i s I e x a m i n e d t h e f o o t p r i n t s

o f B u d d h a i n t h e n e i g h b o u r h o o d , o f w h i c h t h e r e w e r e

about twenty . T h e y w e r e a l l u n n a t u r a l l y l a r g e , o n e b e i n g

t w o f e e t l o n g , a n d t h e t o e s a l l o f o n e s i z e e x c e p t t h e b i g

t o e , w h i c h w a s s l i g h t l y l o n g e r t h a n t h e o t h e r s . T h e r e i s

a Buddha between two women, to whom he holds out his

h a n d s , i n t h e p a l m o f e a c h b e i n g a r o u n d m a r k w i t h a d o t

i n t h e c e n t r e .

T h e m o s t h o l y s p o t w a s t h a t w h e r e t h e B o - t r e e i s s u p -

posed to have grown . I t i s a b o u t t e n y a r d s f r o m t h e t e m -

ple, and the deep space between was covered over . O n

the site was a marble platform inscribed "Buddhawasse

2427," and beneath a statement decla ring it the place

o f t h e M a s t e r ' s i l l u m i n a t i o n . On it were sculptured the

" grand beings " who came with offerings -a l l h u m a n .

Five candles were burning before this sacred spot . A

c o m p a n y o f B u r m e s e p i l g r i m s p r e s e n t h a d l a i d f r e s h l o t u s

f l o w e r s o n t h e m a r b l e , a n d g o n e o f f t o b a t h e i n t h e s a c r e d

tank . F a r a w a y I s a w a s o l i t a r y M o s l e m , o n e o f t h e w o r k -

men, kneeling on his mat towards Mec ca . The pilgrims

h a d h a p p y f a c e s l i k e t h o s e o f c h i l d r e n . I r e m e m b e r w h e n

first gazing on the huge bronze Buddha in South Ken-

s i n g t o n M u s e u m a l a d y a p p r o a c h e d w i t h h e r l i t t l e d a u g h -

t e r , t o w h o m s h e e x p l a i n e d w h a t a g o o d m a n h e w a s . T h e

c h i l d , a f t e r s o m e s i l e n c e , s a i d : " H o w I w o u l d l i k e t o

climb up and sit in his lap ! I might get some of his

g o o d n e s s ! " S h e w a s t h e l i t t l e s i s t e r o f t h e s e p i l g r i m s ,

j o u r n e y i n g f a r t o n e s t l e c l o s e t o t h e b e l o v e d o n e .

In conversing with Mr . B e g l e r I a s k e d h i m i f h e h a d



BUDDHA'S BO-TREE 2 6 1

f o u n d a n y B o - t r e e ( F i c u s r e l i g i o u a ) i n t h e v i c i n i t y , a s i t

a p p e a r e d i m p r o b a b l e ( a l t h o u g h a n y t r e e m a y b e a B o - t r e e )

t h a t t h e l e g e n d s h o u l d b e l o c a t e d w h e r e t h e r e w e r e n o n e .

H e s m i l e d , a n d s a i d h e w o u l d c o n f i d e t o m e a d i s c o v e r y

m a d e t h a t w e e k . H e t h e n t o o k m e o u t t o t h e c o v e r e d

p l a c e a d j o i n i n g t h e m a r b l e , u n l o c k e d a d o o r o f t h e l i t t l e

s h a n t y , a n d t h e r e s h o w e d m e t h e b r a n c h i n g r o o t s o f w h a t

m u s t h a v e b e e n a n e n o r m o u s t r e e . T h e r o o t s b r a n c h e d

d o w n w a r d s e v e r a l y a r d s f r o m t h e s a c r e d s p o t ; t h e y l o o k e d

l i k e c o r k , b u t w e r e p e r f e c t l y t r a c e a b l e . He desired me

n o t t o m e n t i o n t h e d i s c o v e r y a t G a y a ; w e r e i t k n o w n , i t

w o u l d b e i m p o s s i b l e t o r e s t r a i n t h e p i l g r i m s f r o m t e a r i n g

u p t h e w h o l e b a n k f o r b i t s o f t h e r o o t .

A b o u t t h e m i d d l e o f t h e t h i r d c e n t u r y b e f o r e o u r e r a

t h e g r e a t K i n g A s o k a c a m e o n a p i l g r i m a g e t o t h i s s p o t

b e c a u s e o f t h i s B o d h i T r e e , o r T r e e o f K n o w l e d g e , u n d e r

which his adopted Lord Buddha had sat. He caused a

m o n a s t e r y t o b e e s t a b l i s h e d h e r e , a n d d e v o t e d m u c h o f

h i s w e a l t h t o e m b e l l i s h t h e t r e e a n d m o n a s t e r y . H i s q u e e n

b e c a m e j e a l o u s o f t h e t r e e , a n d a l s o t r o u b l e d b e c a u s e h e r

g o d s w e r e n e g l e c t e d , a n d e m p l o y e d a s e c r e t a g e n t t o d e -

s t r o y t h e t r e e b y " s o r c e r y . " A s o k a w a s s o i n c o n s o l a b l e

t h a t h i s q u e e n g o t t h e " s o r c e r e s s " t o r e s u s c i t a t e t h i s T r e e

of Knowledge . B u t t h e B a n y a n o f I g n o r a n c e h a s s o o v e r -

grown Christendom in the ages that many of us can

r e m e m b e r t h e t i m e w h e n B u d d h a b e g a n t o b e t a l k e d

a b o u t i n E u r o p e a n d A m e r i c a . M y o l d f r i e n d M r s . M a n -

n i n g , w h o r e s i d e d f o r s o m e y e a r s i n B e n g a l , a n d w r o t e

an admirable book on "Ancient and Mediaeval India"

( 1 8 6 9 ) , s a y s t h a t " n o t u n t i l t h e y e a r 1 8 3 7 , i n w h i c h M r .

J a m e s P r i n s e p d e c i p h e r e d t h e w r i t t e n c h a r a c t e r o f K i n g

A s o k a ' s e d i c t s , w a s a n y t h i n g k n o w n o f t h e B u d d h i s m o f

a n c i e n t I n d i a . " T h e r e l i g i o u s a n d m o r a l s e n t i m e n t a b o u t



2 6 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

B u d d h a b e g a n y e t l a t e r , b u t s o r a p i d l y d i d i t g r o w t h a t

t h e s a m e E n g l i s h g e n e r a t i o n f i r s t i n t e r e s t e d i n t h a t r e l i -

g i o n w i t n e s s e d t h e r e c o n s t r u c t i o n b y t h e i r g o v e r n m e n t o f

t h i s f i r s t B u d d h i s t t e m p l e .

V a s t a n d i m p o s i n g a s i t i s , t h e o r i g i n a l e d i f i c e w a s

t h r i c e a s l a r g e , a s i s p r o v e d b y t h e a c r e s o f f r a g m e n t s

t h a t d e f y a l l a r c h i t e c t u r a l s p e c u l a t i o n . T h a t t h i s c o l o s s a l

temple preceded the cathedrals of Europe by a thousand

y e a r s i s e x p l a i n e d b y t h e f a c t t h a t C h r i s t e n d o m w a s p a r a -

l y z e d b y t h e e x p e c t a t i o n o f t h e e n d o f t h e w o r l d a t t h a t

p e r i o d .

T h e a n c i e n t H i n d u t e m p l e s a r e p r e t t y b u t s m a l l , -

l a r g e a n d e m b e l l i s h e d s h r i n e s . T h e r e l i g i o n o f t h e s e c t s

that make what is called Hinduism is domestic ; t h e s o -

called temples are not constructed for sermons or any

s e r v i c e s t o a t t r a c t t h e p e o p l e . T h e r e i s n o d e s i r e t o c o n -

v e r t a n y b o d y , - n o p r o p a g a n d a . T o p l a c a t e s o m e i n v i s -

ible ghost or demon who, if his or her oblations are

n e g l e c t e d , m a y d o t h e p e o p l e s o m e m i s c h i e f , t h e s e s h r i n e s

a n d a l t a r s w i t h t h e i r d e c o r a t e d d o m e s w e r e e r e c t e d . T h e

l e g e n d s o f t h e s e p h a n t a s m s w e r e t r a n s m i t t e d o r a l l y , a n d

they too were embellished, so that the masses learned

them by means of dramas, - m i r a c l e p l a y s . B u t t h i s n e w

m i s s i o n a r y m o v e m e n t c a l l e d B u d d h i s m w a s a p r e a c h i n g

a n d t e a c h i n g s e c t . Around this edifice, towering up as

a l a n d m a r k f o r p i l g r i m s , w e r e h o s p i t a l s f o r m e n a n d a n i -

m a l s , m o n a s t e r i e s , a c o l l e g e f o r t e a c h e r s l i k e t h a t n e a r

C o l o m b o , a n d n o d o u b t a t h e a t r e f o r r e h e a r s i n g t h e l e g e n d s

o f B u d d h a a n d h i s d i s c i p l e s . H e n c e t h e a c r e s o f f r a g m e n t s .

And it is the great secular power in India -England

-t h a t r e b u i l d s t h e t e m p l e w h i c h t h e g r a n d s e c u l a r i s t ,

King Asoka, founded!

B u t t h i s f i r s t t e m p l e o f B u d d h a c a n n o t b e r e c o n s t r u c t e d



DR. MITRA'S LETTER 263

a l a r g e p r o p o r t i o n o f t h e o r i g i n a l s t o n e s - among them

m a n y f i n e l y - c a r v e d s t u p a s - a r e s t r e w n a b o u t t h e f i e l d .

T h e y s y m b o l i z e t h e d e b r i s o f B u d d h a a n d h i s r e l i g i o n

l o n g s t r e w n a b o u t t h e w o r l d -C h i n a , J a p a n , B u r m a h , a l s o

now about Chris tendom-t o b e f i t t e d i n t o s e c t s a n d s y s -

t e m s o f t h e i r o w n . I w e n t o f f w i t h a b e a u t i f u l l i t t l e s t u p a

p r e s e n t e d t o m e b y t h e e n g i n e e r , o n w h i c h i s a s e a t e d

B u d d h a w i t h e v e r y l i n e a s t r u e a s i f i t h a d b e e n c a r v e d

a f e w y e a r s b e f o r e i n s t e a d o f t w o t h o u s a n d . I p r e s e n t e d

i t t o D r . P a u l C a r n s , e d i t o r o f " The Open Cour t " ( C h i -

c a g o ) , o u t o f r e s p e c t f o r h i s a s s i d u o u s e f f o r t s t o d i f f u s e

k n o w l e d g e o f B u d d h i s m a n d r e v e r e n c e f o r B u d d h a .

I f e e l a s i f I k n o w s o m e t h i n g o f Z o r o a s t e r a n d o f J e s u s ,

a n d t h e s e t w o a r e t o m e t h e m e n w h o k n e w t h e t r u e r e l i -

g i o n. The real Bu ddha is more dim

;bu t at Gaya the

t h o u g h t o f t h a t y o u n g p r i n c e b u r d e n e d w i t h t h e s o r r o w s

and delus ions of mankind r eached f ar down in me and

t o u c h e d s o m e s u b c o n s c i o u s s o u r c e o f t e a r s a n d l o v e f o r

t h e m a n , a n d I l o n g e d t o c l a s p h i s k n e e s .

I a t o n c e w r o t e t o R a j e n d r a l a l a M i t r a , L L . D . , a t C a l -

c u t t a , a b o u t t h e c a l c i n e d r o o t . I a l s o m e n t i o n e d m y c o n -

vers ation wi th a Bu dd hist who had not qu ite met my

q u e s t i o n w h y , i f e x i s t e n c e b e a n e v i l , B u d d h i s t s s h o u l d ,

b y b r i n g i n g c h i l d r e n i n t o t h e w o r l d , d e p r i v e t h e m o f t h e

N i r v a n a o f n o n - e x i s t e n c e . I give an extract from Dr .

M i t r a ' s a n s w e r : -

W h e n I e x a m i n e d t h e m o u n d w h i c h m a r k e d t h e s i t e o f

t h e B o d h i T r e e , i t c o n s i s t e d o f s u c h a m i s c e l l a n e o u s m a s s

o f r u b b i s h , b r o k e n p o t t e r y , k i t c h e n m i d d e n , c i n d e r s , e t c . ,

t h a t I c o u l d n o t m a k e a n y u s e o f i t f o r h i s t o r i c a l p u r p o s e s .

T h e m o u n d w a s m o r e o v e r a t t h e t i m e a l l b u t i n t a c t , a n d I

w a s n o t a t l i b e r t y t o d i g i n t o i t . Mr . B e g l e r c a r t e d a w a y

t h e w h o l e o f i t , a n d t h e r e f o r e h a d f u l l o p p o r t u n i t y t o s t u d y

t h e c h a r r e d r o o t i n s i t u , a n d w h e n h e p u b l i s h e s h i s r e p o r t



2 6 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

w e s h a l l b e i n a p o s i t i o n t o k n o w w h e t h e r t h e s a i d r o o t i s

a part of the tree whic h was bu rnt down by the Hindu s

o r o n l y t h e c h a r r e d d e b r i s o f k i t c h e n f u e l .

I a m n o t s u r p r i s e d t h a t t h e i d e a s h o u l d h a v e s t r u c k y o u

a b o u t t h e a n t e c e d e n t N i r v a n a o f a n u n b o r n c h i l d . S t a r t -

ing as you must f rom the European dogma of a f r s t c r e a -

t i o n , t h e c o r o l l a r y f o l l o w s a s a m a t t e r o f c o u r s e , a n d S c h o -

p e n h a u e r t r i e d t o g e t o v e r i t b y p u t t i n g d o w n m a r r i a g e .

T h e S a n k h y a s , t h e Y o g i s , a n d t h e B u d d h i s t s o f m y c o u n -

t r y f e l t t h e d i f f i c u l t y q u i t e a s m u c h , b u t t h e y d i d n o t y i e l d

t o i t . T h e i d e a s o f b l o t t i n g o u t c r e a t i o n b y a b s t a i n i n g

f r o m m a r r i a g e s e e m e d t o t h e m t o b e t o o c h i l d i s h t o b e r e -

c o g n i z e d a s a p r i n c i p l e o f p h i l o s o p h y , a n d t h e y r o s e f a r

above it. They hold that where every thing is governed

b y l a w s , i m m u t a b l e a n d e t e r n a l , i t i s a b s u r d t o t h i n k o f

f i r s t c r e a t i o n u n d e r a p e r s o n a l a g e n c y , h o w e v e r s u p e r n a t -

u r a l a n d t r a n s c e n d e n t a l w e m a y c h o o s e t o a s s u m e i t . What

is happening every d ay now must have happened in the

p a s t w i t h o u t a l i m i t , a n d t h e w o r l d t h e r e f o r e e x i s t s f r o m

e t e r n i t y ; and inasmuch as every acti on, every d ream,

e v e r y i d e a , e v e r y c o n c e p t i o n , l e a v e s a m a r k o r i m p r e s s i o n

o r r e s i d u u m o n t h e f i e l d o f t h e m i n d , t h e m i n d o f t h e u n -

b o r n c h i l d i s n o t a n d c a n n o t b e i n N i r v a n a -i t i s a l w a y s

t i n d e r t h e i n f l u e n c e o f t h e i m p r e s s i o n s o r r e s i d u a o f i t s

f o r m e r b i r t h s o r t e r m s o f e x i s t e n c e s , a n d t h e w i l l t o l i v e

a n d m u l t i p l y i s i n h e r e n t i n i t . T h i s t h e o r y o f c o u r s e i n -

v o l v e s a r e g r e s s e s a d i n f i n i t u m , b u t o u r p e o p l e d o n o t a d -

m i t t h a t t o b e a l o g i c a l d e f e c t . I t r e q u i r e s , m o r e o v e r , t h e

t h e o r y o f m e t e m p s y c h o s i s , a n d t h a t f o r m s t h e c o r n e r - s t o n e

o f a l l H i n d u s y s t e m s , e x c e p t t h a t o f t h e C h o r v a k a s . T he

t h e o r y o f r e s i d u a m a y a t f i r s t s i g h t a p p e a r v e r y l i k e t h a t

o f p r e d e s t i n a t i o n , b u t i n r e a l i t y i t i s n o t s o . The one im-

p l i e s a n i r r e s i s t i b l e a n d n e v e r f a i l i n g l a w o f s e q u e n c e s ,

e v e r y a c t m u s t b e f o l l o w e d b y i t s c o r r e s p o n d i n g f r u i t , -a n i n e v i t a b l e s c a l d a f t e r d i p p i n g t h e f i n g e r s i n b o i l i n g

water, -w hereas the other assumes an extraneous s upe-

r i o r g o v e r n i n g p o w e r w h i c h s e t t l e s b e f o r e h a n d i n a n a r -

b i t r a r y a n d c a p r i c i o u s m a n n e r w h a t w i l l h a p p e n h e r e a f t e r ,-h e f a t e s w r i t i n g d o w n t h a t a p a r t i c u l a r p e r s o n i s t o

h a v e h i s f i n g e r s c a l d e d a t s u c h a t i m e , h o w e v e r c a u t i o u s



STUPA



A PARABLE OF THE SOUL 96 5

h e m a y b e , o r w h a t e v e r p r e c a u t i o n s h e m a y t a k e t o a v o i d

s u c h a c o n t i n g e n c y .

It was not to the merely u nborn chi ld that I had

referr ed, bu t to the creation of an embry onic germ of

b e i n g w h e r e n o n e e x i s t s . S c h o p e n h a u e r i s t h e o n l y p e s s i -

m i s t i c w r i t e r w h o e v e r f a c e d t h a t q u e s t i o n . With him the

y o u t h a n d m a i d f a l l i n g i n l o v e a r e t h e t r a i t o r s , b u t f o r

whom the great mistake of the univ erse- . c o n s c i o u s n e s s-o u l d b e r e m e d i e d , a n d t h e m i s e r y o f l i f e e n d .

F o r t h e r e s t , D r . M i t r a ' s l e t t e r s h o w s t h a t t h e s e a t i n g

of Bud dha side b y si de wi th Juggenauth in the popular

festivals of Indi a corresponds w ith a union of Brahman

a n d B u d d h i s t p h i l o s o p h i e s i n l e a r n e d m i n d s . I t i s a c o n -

s o l a t i o n t o t h o s e w h o , a m i d t h e o r i e s e v e r s h i f t i n g , f i x t h e i r

e y e s o n h u m a n h a p p i n e s s a s t h e f r u i t b y w h i c h t h e r e l i -

g i o u s T r e e s a r e t o b e j u d g e d , t h a t i n t h e r e l i g i o n s s e e m -

i n g l y m o s t i n c o n g r u o u s t h e p e o p l e s f i n d s i m i l a r s a t i s f a c t i o n .

A philos ophic Hi ndu i n whose mind Br ahmanism,

Bud dhism, and Jainism blended descri bed to me in a

parable the condition of the indivi du al soul : a f r og

sw allows a gem ; b y g e o l o g i c c h a n g e s t h e f r o g i s i m b e d d e d

in mud, the mud hardens to rock, the rock overwhelmed

by an avalanche is at the bottom of the interi or of a

mountain . T h e p e s s i m i s t i c p h i l o s o p h y s a i d t h a t t o r e a c h

that gem many kalp as ar e needed . A kalp a means the

t i m e t h a t w o u l d b e r e q u i r e d f o r a m a n s t r i k i n g a m o u n t a i n

w i t h a s i l k h a n d k e r c h i e f o n c e a n h o u r t o w e a r t h a t m o u n -

tain away . A l l t h e r e l i g i o n s o f t h e g r e a t t e a c h e r s r e s t o n

sc hemes for perf orating the mountain and reaching the

f r o g w i t h t h e g e m i n s i d e i t .

My Hi ndu philosopher's parabl e has recur red to me

a t t i m e s a s i l l u s t r a t i n g t h e i m p o s s i b i l i t y o f e v e r r e s c u i n g

manki nd from irr ational sys tems . That wh i c h neve r



266 MY PILGRIMAGE

e n t e r e d i n t o t h e m b y r e a s o n c a n n o t b e g o t o u t o f t h e m b y

r e a s o n . I t w o u l d r e q u i r e a k a l p a t o g e t e v e n t h e l e a r n e d

f r e e f r o m e v e r y m o r a l a n d s o c i a l h e r i t a g e f r o m t h e d o g m a s

t h e y d i s c r e d i t ; a n d f o r o n e I w o u l d b e g l a d t o s e e t h e s e

p r a c t i c a l s e q u e l c e exchanged f or c eremonial and meta-

p h y s i c a l s u p e r s t i t i o n s w h i c h h a v e b e c o m e c o m p a r a t i v e l y

h a r m l e s s a b s t r a c t i o n s . E v o l u t i o n a r y f o r c e s s t e a d i l y m a k e

d o g m a s a c a d e m i c , b u t i t i s a t t h e c o s t o f d e v e l o p i n g o u t

o f w h a t G e o r g e S a n d c a l l e d " l e s v e r t u s a u s t e r e s d e l a

m e d i o c r i t e " a m o r a l i n q u i s i t i o n m o r e f a t a l t o h u m a n h a p -

p i n e s s a n d e t h i c a l p r o g r e s s t h a n t h e o l d a n t i - h e r e t i c a l

i n q u i s i t i o n .

My firs t morning at Benares was p assed on a barge

w i t n e s s i n g t h e i m m e r s i o n s i n t h e G a n g e s , - a m u c h m u l t i -

p l i e d r e p r o d u c t i o n o f t h e b a p t i s m o f o u r c o l o u r e d f o l k i n

t h e R a p p a h a n n o c k , w h i c h I u s e d t o w i t n e s s i n b o y h o o d .

E v e r y t i m e a p r i e s t i m m e r s e d a p e r s o n h e t h r e w a l i t t l e

w a t e r w i t h h i s h a n d t o w a r d s t h e s u n , a n d t h e b a p t i z e d o n e

t o o k a s i p o f t h e w a t e r . M y g u i d e w a s a M o s l e m a n d s a i d ,

° ' D r i n k i n g c h o l e r a . " H e a l s o i n v e i g h e d a g a i n s t t h e c r e -

m a t i o n o f d e a d b o d i e s g o i n g o n a t o n e p o i n t , a n d w a s

a m a z e d t o f i n d t h a t I a p p r o v e d o f i t .

T h e p l e a s a n t e s t s c e n e w a s t h e " W i d o w ' s G h a t . " These

p r e t t y y o u n g d a m e s , n o t f a r f r o m t h e s p o t w h e r e t h e y

w o u l d o n c e h a v e b e e n b u r n t w i t h t h e i r h u s b a n d s , w e r e

r e c l i n i n g o n t h e i r G h a t ( m a r b l e s t a i r t o t h e r i v e r ) a n d

d i s p o r t i n g t h e m s e l v e s m e r r i l y i n t h e w a t e r , a n d , b e i n g

a p a r t f r o m t h e c r o w d , h a d n o n e e d o f g a r m e n t s . T h a t t h e y

w e r e v i s i b l e f r o m o u r b a r g e s c o n c e r n e d t h e m n o t . They

p o i s e d o n t h e i r m a r b l e l i k e l i g h t b r o n z e s t a t u e s , a n d t h e i r

l o u d l a u g h t e r w a s m u s i c a l a c r o s s t h e w a t e r .

T h e G a n g e s i s t h e H i n d u J o r d a n , a n d B e n a r e s b e s i d e

i t i s t h e H i n d u J e r u s a l e m . I t i s t h e C i t y of Temples ;



MONKEY TEMPLE AT BENARES 9 , 6 7

i t s o n l y t r a d e i s i n g o d s . I t s c h i e f g o d i s S i v a , t h e D e -

s t r o y e r - p r o p e r l y s o , f o r t h e G a n g e s i s t h e r e a s e w e r ,

a n d a s e a c h p i l g r i m m u s t d r i n k s o m e o f t h e l i q u i d c h o l e r a ,

d i s e a s e i s d i f f u s e d f a r a n d w i d e . They have a famous

w e l l-he Well of Knowledge-f w h o s e w a t e r s h u n -

d r e d s w e r e d r i n k i n g , t h o u g h t o m y u n b e l i e v i n g n o s t r i l

t h e s t e n c h o f i t w a s i n s u p p o r t a b l e . I j o u r n e y e d t h r o u g h

t h e t e m p l e s a l l d a y , a l o n g w i t h m y M o s l e m i n t e r p r e t e r ,

w h o w a s s c a n d a l i z e d b y m y p u r c h a s e s o f l i t t l e g o d s a n d

g o d d e s s e s , w h i c h b e c a r r i e d w i t h r e l u c t a n c e . I am not

s u r e w h e t h e r h i s t r o u b l e w a s d u e t o f e a r s f o r h i s s o u l i n

handli ng suc h " i d o l s , " o r j e a l o u s y t h a t h i s i d o l a t r o u s

n e i g h b o u r s s h o u l d h a v e t h e t r i u m p h o f w e s t e r n p a t r o n a g e

o f t h e i r r e l i g i o n . H e d i d n o t f a i l t o i n f o r m m e t h a t t h e r e

w a s o n l y o n e G o d .

I w a s m u c h i n t e r e s t e d i n t h e M o n k e y T e m p l e . B e f o r e

I w a s h o l y e n o u g h t o e n t e r i t a p r i e s t c a m e o u t a n d t h r e w

a w r e a t h o f y e l l o w f l o w e r s a r o u n d m y n e c k . Then a boy

b r o u g h t a s a l v e r o f s w e e t t h i n g s w i t h w h i c h I w a s t o f e e d

t h e m o n k e y s . T h e m u l t i t u d i n o u s m o n k e y s c a m e f r o m r o o f ,

c o r n i c e , h o l e s , c o r n e r s , a l t a r s , - s e v e r a l h u n d r e d s . Some

d i d n o t c o m e a t a l l , b u t e y e d m e c u r i o u s l y o r w i t h a n a i r

o f s u p e r i o r i t y . I r e a d c l e a r l y i n t h e e y e s o f o n e v e n e r a b l e

c h i m p a n z e e h i s e x p l a n a t i o n t h a t t h e y c o n s i d e r e d t h e m -

s e l v e s i n t h e i r p l a c e a n d m e o u t o f m i n e . T h o s e t h a t c a m e

a t e t h e s u g a r - p l u m s l a z i l y . T h e y w e r e o f m a n y v a r i e t i e s

a n d c o l o u r s . O n e l a r g e p a t r i a r c h a l p e r s o n a g e t o o k a c a k e ,

b u t d i d n o t e a t i t ; h e g a z e d a t m e s t e a d i l y a l o n g t i m e ,

a n d I r e t u r n e d t h e g a z e . I p e r c e i v e d t h a t h e w a s a S o l o -

m o n o f h i s r a c e . I n s o m e w a y h e c o n v e y e d t o m e a q u e r y

w h y I s h o u l d c o n s i d e r m y s e l f a n d o t h e r m e n t h e h i g h e r

d e v e l o p m e n t o f m o n k e y s , r a t h e r t h a n m o n k e y s s h o u l d b e

regarded as evolv ed men . He mu st hav e r ead my



268 MY PILGRIMAGE

t h o u g h t s ,for at that moment I w as think ing that the

r e l i g i o u s o b s e r v a n c e s I h a d b e e n w i t n e s s i n g w e r e t h o s e

r e p r e s e n t i n g t h e a n c i e n t r e l i g i o n o f c h i m p a n z e e s , a n d t h a t

m e n h a d k e p t i t u p , b u t t a k e n a w a y f r o m t h e o r i g i n a l

f o u n d e r s a l l t h e i r t e m p l e s e x c e p t t h i s o n e . B u t t h i s s i m -

i a l S o l o m o n g a v e m e a n e w i d e a ; n a m e l y , t h a t t h e s e m o n -

k e y s w e r e o n c e m e n , a n d f o u n d t h e m s e l v e s s o o p p r e s s e d

b y t h e p r i e s t l y p o w e r s a n d d e g r a d e d b y t h e s u p e r s t i t i o n s

t h a t t h e y h a d c o n c l u d e d t o e v o l v e i n t o m o n k e y f o r m s .

T h e y c o u l d t h u s e n j o y t h e s e r v i c e s a n d s w e e t m e a t s o f t h e

p r i e s t h o o d w i t h o u t p a r t i c i p a t i n g i n t h e i r c e r e m o n i e s .

I n m y p r e t t y l i t t l e h o t e l a t B e n a r e s I b e g a n a s e r i e s o f

p a p e r s , a f t e r w a r d s p u b l i s h e d i n " T h e O p e n C o u r t " u n d e r

t h e t i t l e , " C h a t s w i t h a C h i m p a n z e e . " Every morning

b e g a n w i t h a v i s i t t o t h i s d e l i g h t f u l T e m p l e o f t h e M o n -

k e y s .

I made a delightful exc urs ion from Benares to the

" D e e r P a r k , " w h i c h R h y s D a v i d s s p e a k s o f a s t h e d e e r -

forest where Bud dha passed much of his time . But I

h a d a l s o h e a r d a c o n j e c t u r e t h a t i t w a s t h e r e t h a t t h e

cour tesan Ambapali ( or Amrapali) resi ded, - the most

romantic f igur e in the Bud dha legend, and under t h e

n a m e o f M a g d a l e n e t h e m o s t r o m a n t i c f i g u r e i n C h r i s -

t i a n l e g e n d s . A m b a p a l i i s s p o k e n o f i n t h e m o s t a n c i e n t

a c c o u n t a s " t h e c o u r t e s a n o f V a i s a l i . " But where was

V a i s a l i ? I n E u g e n e ' s B u r n o u f ' s " I n t r o d u c t i o n a 1 ' h i s -

t o i r e d u B u d d h i s m e i n d i e n , " v o l . i , p . 7 6 ( e d i t i o n o f

1 8 7 6 ) , t h e r e i s a f o o t n o t e ( 2 ) s h o w i n g t h a t C o s m a h a d l o -

c a t e d V a i s a l i n e a r A l l a h a b a d , a n d H a m i l t o n n e a r P a t n a ,

- B u r n o u f h i m s e l f i n c l i n i n g t o t h e l a t t e r o p i n i o n . The

s i t e b e i n g t h u s u n d e t e r m i n e d , w h y m a y n o t o n e s u p p o s e

t h a t i f B u d d h a l o v e d t h i s D e e r P a r k , a n d m a d e i t t h e

h e a d q u a r t e r s o f h i s f r a t e r n i t y , i t w a s b e c a u s e t h e c a s t l e



VAISALI 969

a n d p a r k w e r e p r e s e n t e d t o h i m f o r t h a t p u r p o s e b y t h e

f a m o u s c o u r t e s a n ? B u t w a s t h e r e a n y c i t y o r r e a l m o f

V a i s a l i ( o r V e s a l i , a s R h y s D a v i d s w r i t e s i t , o r B e l a s i ,

a s H a m i l t o n w r i t e s i t ) ? I n t h e o l d T i b e t a n ( S a n s c r i t )

t a l e , " P r i n c e J i v a k a , " i t i s s a i d : " O n l y i n V a i s a l i d i d

t h e p e o p l e r u l e . . . . T h e r e w e r e t h r e e d i s t r i c t s i n V a i s a l i .

I n t h e f i r s t d i s t r i c t w e r e 7 0 0 0 h o u s e s w i t h g o l d e n t o w e r s ,

i n t h e m i d d l e d i s t r i c t w e r e 1 4 , 0 0 0 w i t h s i l v e r t o w e r s , a n d

i n t h e l a s t d i s t r i c t w e r e 2 1 , 0 0 0 h o u s e s w i t h c o p p e r t o w e r s .

I n t h e s e l i v e d t h e u p p e r , t h e midd le, and the lower

c l a s s e s a c c o r d i n g t o t h e i r p o s i t i o n . T h e p e o p l e o f V a i s a l i

h a d m a d e i t a l a w t h a t a d a u g h t e r b o r n i n t h e f i r s t d i s -

t r i c t c o u l d m a r r y o n l y i n t h e f i r s t d i s t r i c t , n o t i n t h e s e e -

c o n d o r t h i r d ; t h a t o n e b o r n i n t h e m i d d l e d i s t r i c t c o u l d

m a r r y o n l y i n t h e f i r s t a n d s e c o n d ; b u t t h a t o n e b o r n i n

t h e l a s t d i s t r i c t c o u l d m a r r y i n a n y o n e o f t h e t h r e e ;

m o r e o v e r , t h a t n o m a r r i a g e w a s t o b e c o n t r a c t e d o u t s i d e

V a i s a l i , a n d t h a t a w o m a n r e c o g n i z e d a s a p e a r l a m o n g

women should not be marri ed to any one, but s hould

a p p e r t a i n t o t h e p e o p l e f o r c o m m o n e n j o y m e n t . "

I n s e a r c h a f t e r s u c h a c i t y i s o n e t r y i n g t o l o c a t e B u n -

y a n ' s V a n i t y F a i r o r t h e V a l e o f H u m i l i t y ? I s V a i s a l i

b u i l t o u t o f v i s a l , w h i c h m e a n s " m e e t i n g o f l o v e r s , " " s e x -

u a l i n t e r c o u r s e "? o r r e l a t e d t o b a z a r ( b a z a n k i m e t h a i , -

"b a z a r s w e e t m e a t s " b e i n g a p r o v e r b i a l p h r a s e f o r t h e

d e m i - m o n d e ) ? I c a n g e t s o m u c h o u t o f F a l l o n ' s H i n d u -

s t a n i - E n g l i s h D i c t i o n a r y , b u t h a v e n o t t h e k n o w l e d g e

t o p u r s u e t h e p o i n t , w h i c h m a y b e d e a l t w i t h i n w o r k s I

h a v e n o t r e a d . T h e f a i r l y h i s t o r i c a l t h i n g i s t h a t a f a -

m o u s c o u r t e s a n p r e s e n t e d B u d d h a a n d h i s d i s c i p l e s w i t h

h e r m a n s i o n a n d p a r k , a n d a s i t i s n o t l i k e l y t h a t t h e y

c o u l d h a v e c o m e i n p o s s e s s i o n o f t h i s D e e r P a r k e x c e p t

b y a d o n a t i o n , I m o v e d a b o u t i t r e v e r e n t l y ; h a v i n g l o n g



r

9 , 7 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

ago formed the habit of sayi ng c h e r c h e z l a f e m m e , n o t

when a disaster is to be accounted f or, bu t when the

s o u r c e o f a g r e a t i n s p i r a t i o n a n d c h a r a c t e r i s s o u g h t .

T h e n a r r a t i v e i s ( c o n d e n s e d ) a s f o l l o w s : -

Hearing of Bu ddha as the wi sest of men, Ambapali

s t a r t e d i n h e r c h a r i o t w i t h a g r a n d e s c o r t t o v i s i t h i m .

A r r i v i n g a f t e r a l o n g j o u r n e y a t t h e p l a c e , s h e s a t n e a r

Bud dha and li stened . W h e n h i s d i s c o u r s e h a d e n d e d , s h e

approached and desir ed that he would , w hen he came to

h e r r e g i o n , t a k e h i s m e a l i n h e r h o u s e . To this Bud dha

consented, and Ambapali jour neyed to her home . Mean-

w h i l e t h e p r i n c e s o f h e r n e i g h b o u r h o o d a r r i v e d a n d p r e -

s e n t e d t h e i r i n v i t a t i o n s , b u t B u d d h a t o l d t h e m t h a t s o

l o n g a s h e w a s i n t h e i r r e g i o n h i s s o j o u r n w o u l d b e i n

the hous e of the courtesan Ambapali. The princes said

t o e a c h o t h e r , " The Mango Gir l has got ahead of us ! "

A c c o r d i n g t o e x i s t i n g e t i q u e t t e o n e w h o h e l d a n e n g a g e -

m e n t t o g i v e a f e a s t t o a n y p e r s o n a g e m i g h t t r a n s f e r i t t o

a n o t h e r h o s t . T h e p r i n c e s t h e r e f o r e o v e r t o o k t h e c h a r i o t

of Ambapali and off ered her a large sum to give up to

them the right of entertaining Bu dd ha . She told them

that she would not surr ender her pr ivi lege ; and when

they went on to pile u p the amount of gold they wou ld

g i v e f o r i t , s h e a n s w e r e d t h a t n o t i f t h e y s h o u l d o f f e r h e r

t h e i r u n i t e d k i n g d o m s w o u l d s h e y i e l d .

On the appointed day Bu dd ha came wi th his imme-

d i a t e d i s c i p l e s i n t o t h e p a l a c e o f t h e b e a u t i f u l c o u r t e s a n .

Ambapali pers onally w aited on them, the feast being,

however, simple, -ric e and f ruit . A f t er w a r d s B u d d h a

d e l i v e r e d a d i s c o u r s e i n w h i c h t h e r e i s n o a l l u s i o n t o

A m b a p a l i ' s m o d e o f l i f e . '

1 " G r e a t i s t h e f r u i t , g r e a t t h e a d v a n t a g e o f e a r n e s t c o n t e m p l a ti o n w h e n

s e t r o u n d w i t h u p r i g h t c o n d u c t . G r e a t i s t h e f r u i t , g r e a t t h e a d v a n t a g e o f



AMBAPALI 271

Ambapali at once conveyed to Bud dha and his dis -

c i p l e s a c o m p l e t e t i t l e t o h e r m a n s i o n a n d p a r k . C a l l i n g

h e r c h a r i o t a n d a t t e n d a n t s , s h e d r o v e a w a y , a n d p a s s e d

o u t o f h i s t o r y .

N o t h i n g i s s a i d o f A m b a p a l i ' s " c o n v e r s i o n , " a n d t h e r e

i s n o i n t i m a t i o n t h a t s h e a b a n d o n e d h e r " v o c a t i o n . " In

a c o u n t r y o f i n f a n t m a r r i a g e s , a l w a y s m a t t e r s o f n e g o t i a -

t i o n , i t i s p r o b a b l e t h a t a g r e a t e t h i c a l t e a c h e r m i g h t

r e g a r d a c o u r t e s a n a s n o t m o r a l l y i n f e r i o r t o t h o s e c e r e -

m o n i a l l y m a r r i e d . A t G a y a I o b s e r v e d n e a r t h e t e m p l e a

u n i q u e " B o d i s a t a , " - a f i n e l y c a r v e d s t u p a r e p r e s e n t a t i o n

o f a y o u n g w o m a n , s e a t e d i n t h e p o s t u r e o f a B u d d h a .

T h e r e a r e a g o o d m a n y w o m e n m e n t i o n e d i n e a r l y a n n a l s

a s h a v i n g b e c o m e f e r v e n t d i s c i p l e s o f B u d d h a , b u t t h e

d o n o r o f t h e m a n s i o n a n d p a r k r e m a i n s i n e a r l y o r i e n t a l

f o l k - t a l e s a l w a y s t h e s p l e n d i d c o u r t e s a n .

Dr. Rhys David s told me that no early Bud dhist

w r i t e r s e e m s t o h a v e c o n s i d e r e d a n y d e f e n c e n e c e s s a r y ,

w h e t h e r o f A m b a p a l i o r o f B u d d h a ' s s i l e n c e c o n c e r n i n g

h e r l i f e . B u t i n t h e T i b e t a n t a l e , " P r i n c e J i v a k a , " i t i s

s t a t e d t h a t ' s h e w a s m a d e a c o u r t e s a n b y a l a w o f V a i s a l i ,

t h o u g h s h e i m p o s e d , a s w a s h e r r i g h t , r i g o r o u s a n d c o s t l y

c o n d i t i o n s . S h e w a s n o t a c o m m o n m o r t a l , b u t a k i n d o f

dryad ; s h e c a m e o u t o f a m a n g o - t r e e a n d w a s t h e r e f o r e

c a l l e d A m b a p a l i .

I n a f a m o u s p l a y o f t h e a n c i e n t H i n d u t h e a t r e , " T he

T o y - C a r t , " t h e h e r o i n e ( V a s a n t a s e n a ) i s a c o u r t e s a n . She

l i v e s i n a p a l a c e o f g r e a t s p l e n d o u r , i s n o t e d f o r h e r

c h a r i t i e s , a n d b y h e r b o u n d l e s s w e a l t h r a i s e s a B r a h m a n

i n t e l l e c t w h e n s e t r o u n d w i t h e a r n e s t c o n t e m p l a t i o n . The mind set round

w i t h i n t e l l i g e n c e i s f r e e d f r o m t h e g r e a t e v i l s , -t h a t i s t o s a y , f r o m s e n -

s u a l i t y , i n d i v i d u a l i t y [ e g o i s m ? ] , f r o m d e l u s i o n a n d f r o m i g n o r a n c e ." -

D i s c o u r s e i n A m b a p a l i ' s g r o v e , B u d d h i s t S u t r a s , t r . b y J . W. R h y s D a v i d s ,

p . 3 4 .



2 7 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

a n d h i s f a m i l y ( w i f e a n d c h i l d ) o u t o f e x t r e m e p o v e r t y .

She becomes enamoured of this Brahman (Charud atta) .

S e e i n g h i s l i t t l e c h i l d w i t h a n e a r t h e n t o y - c a r t , s h e s u b -

s t i t u t e s a c a r t o f g o l d ; she sends a s tring of di amonds

t o t h e B r a h m a n ' s w i f e , w i t h t h e m e s s a g e ," I am Charu-

datta's handmaid and your slave . " I t i s r e t u r n e d , w i t h

the word s, "You are favoured b y the son of my lord ; i t

i s n o t p r o p e r f o r m e t o a c c e p t t h i s n e c k l a c e . Know that

the only ornament I valu e is my hus band ." Ev entually

t h e w i f e m e e t i n g t h e c o u r t e s a n , s a y s , " Welc ome, happy

si ster!" This i s the formula for r ecognizi ng a "new

w i f e ;" they embrace, and a veil is thrown over Vasan-

tasena to mark that " she is no longer a pub lic char-

a c t e r . " B u t s h e d o e s n o t a p p e a r t o h a v e b e e n q u i t e t h a t ,

a n d i s f i r s t s e e n e s c a p i n g f r o m a _ b r u t a l p r i n c e.

Mr s . M a n n i n g , i n h e r a c c o u n t o f t h e p l a y , t h i n k s t h e

d r a m a t i c e f f e c t w o u l d b e b e t t e r i f i t e n d e d w i t h t h i s r e c o g -

n i t i o n o f V a s a n t a s e n a b y t h e w i f e a n d c h i l d . P r o b a b l y t h e

o r i g i n a l d r a m a d i d s o e n d , a n d t h e r i s e o f B u d d h i s m s u g -

gested the compli cations w hic h extend the play to ten

a c t s . T h e c o u r t e s a n i s s t r a n g l e d b y a p r i n c e s h e h a d r e -

b u f f e d , a n d , l e f t f o r d e a d , i s f o u n d b y a" Sramana," or

Bud dhist devotee . This man had been a gambler , and

h a v i n g l o s t e v e r y t h i n g a t d i c e w a s a b o u t t o b e s o l d a s a

s l a v e , w h e n V a s a n t a s e n a , w i t h h e r u s u a l g e n e r o s i t y , r e -

deems his d ebt ; whereon he renounces gambli ng and

b e c o m e s a B u d d h i s t d e v o t e e . H e a r r i v e s j u s t a s t h e c o u r -

t e s a n i s r e c o v e r i n g , a n d e x c l a i m s , " I t i s t h e l a d y V a s a n -

tasena, the devoted wor ship per of Bu dd ha," and takes

h e r t o a " c o n v e n t , w h e r e d w e l l s a h o l y s i s t e r . "

T h e a u t h o r s h i p o f t h i s p l a y i s u n k n o w n . I t o p e n s w i t h

the manager's announcement that its author w as a King

Sudraka, 1 1 who lived a hundred y ears, and then burnt



LEGEND OF THE MAGDALENE 2 7 3

himself, leaving his ki ngdom to his son . " I t s p r e s e n t

form was arranged about the beginning of our era, b ut

i t i s r e a l l y m u c h e a r l i e r . Siva and Bu dd ha are equally

revered in it, and it is shown that both Brahman and

Bud dhist regarded a " c o u r t e s a n " in muc h the same way

a s a"concubine . " o f H e b r e w a n t i q u i t y . Vasantasena may

be a " c o u r t e s a n " and at the same time " t h e d e v o t e d

worshipper of Budd ha . "

My belief i s that in the narrative of J esus and the

woman arrested for adultery, the word s " si n no more "

h a v e b e e n a d d e d ; f o r t h o u g h h e s a i d , " N e i t h e r d o I c o n -

d e m n t h e e , " t h e w o r d s s e e m t o b e r e c a l l e d w h e n h e d o e s

c o n d e m n h e r f o r s i n . A t a n y r a t e , t h e r e i s n o t t h e s l i g h t e s t

reproach by Jesus of the woman of Samaria, and E dmond

R o s t a n d i n " La Samaritaine " h a s h a d t o i n v e s t h e r w i t h

t h e l e g e n d o f t h e M a g d a l e n e . The moral sys tem in both

India and Judea was b uilt u pon the priestly system ; i t

was u nreal and unjus t so far as the moral sentiment of

simple humanity was concerned ; a n d a v e r y g r e a t t h i n k e r

m i g h t n a t u r a l l y d i s r e g a r d s u c h s a c r a m e n t a l a r r a n g e m e n t s

jus t as George Fox and the Quak ers di d, who preferr ed

h a v i n g t h e i r m a r r i a g e s c a l l e d i l l e g i t i m a t e r a t h e r t h a n b e

m a r r i e d b y p r i e s t s .

In Fr ance the Buddhis t legend was cl everly taken by

Armand Silvestre to di sgui se a romance between Jesus

and the Magdalene . In the tragedy of " I z e y l " Sarah

B e r n h a r d t a p p e a r e d t o m e t o e x c e e d a l l o f h e r o t h e r i m -

p e r s o n a t i o n s , e x c e p t h e r f ° La Samaritai ne . " T h e h e r o i n e ,

with a Magdalene make-u p, seeks to fasc inate Sid dartha

(a Christ-lik e make-up) ; she is converted, bec omes a

penitent devotee, and bestows her wealth on the poor .

B u t S i d d a r t h a ( B u d d h a ) c o n c e i v e s a p a s s i o n a t e l o v e f o r

h e r , -a s s h e h a s f o r h i m , -a n d i t i s I z e y l w h o w i t h a



2 7 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

b r e a k i n g h e a r t a n d a t c o s t o f h e r l i f e k e e p s h i m t r u e t o

h i s g r e a t G ° c a u s e , " w h i c h h e i s w i l l i n g t o d e s e r t f o r h e r s a k e .

The most noted event in the career of Ambapali as a

courtesan was that she was f or a time the mistress of

Bimbi sara, the renowned king of Magadha . T h e T a l m u d

s a y s t h a t M i r i a m o f M a g d a l a d e r i v e d t h i s t i t l e f r o m a n

a n c i e n t c i t y w h i c h w a s d e s t r o y e d b e c a u s e o f i t s l i c e n t i o u s -

n e s s . T h e k i n g o f M a g a d h a i s d e s c r i b e d i n t h e K a h - G y u r

a s " always longing after str ange women," and among

h i s i n t r i g u e s o n e r e s e m b l e s t h a t o f D a v i d w i t h B a t h s h e b a

( t h o u g h t h e h u s b a n d i s n o t s l a i n ) , t h e r e s u l t b e i n g t h e

b i r t h o f t h e g r e a t S c i e n t i f i c ( S o l o m o n i c ?) Javaka, who

healed Budd ha . The king of Magadha's s on by Amba-

p a l i was Prince Abhaye (the Fearless) . I s t h i s " Ma -

gadha " t h e o r i g i n o f t h e t i t l e w h i c h f o u n d i t s w a y t o t h e

l a d y i n J e r u s a l e m ? I t i s a l w a y s t o b e b o r n e i n m i n d t h a t

there is nothing in the New Testament suggesting that

she bad ever been immoral and there was no legend of

t h a t k i n d d u r i n g t h e f i r s t t w o c e n t u r i e s o f o u r e r a .

A l t h o u g h t h e r e i s n o i n d i c a t i o n t h a t A m b a p a l i b e c a m e

a Bud dhis t devotee, the king of Magadha, Bimb isar a,

wi th whom she was associ ated, w as converted, and he

e s t a b l i s h e d g r e a t B u d d h i s t f e s t i v a l s i n h i s k i n g d o m , o f

which Gaya was a part . A t t h e s e f e s t i v a l s - a s s h o w n i n

the Kah-G y u r-u d d hi s t " M y s t e r i e s " w e r e p e r f o r m e d ,

a n d i t c a n h a r d l y b e d o u b t e d t h a t t h e f a m o u s m i s t r e s s o f

t h e k i n g ( " Amrapf il i," i n Magadha), w ho made the mag-

n i f i c e n t d o n a t i o n t o B u d d h a , w a s a f i g u r e i n t h o s e d r a m a s .

When these dramas, acted everyw here, were suc ceeded

b y C h r i s t i a n " M y s t e r i e s , " t h e r o l e o f t h e w e a l t h y c o u r -

tesan who endowed Bu dd ha might easi ly pas s to the

wealthy lady of Jerusalem who " administered to him

[ J e s u s , i n s o m e v e r s i o n s ' t o t h e m ' ] o f h e r p r o p e r t y . "



STORY OF BRAHMADATTA 2 7 5

I n t h e a n c i e n t" Mystery " o f " Mary Magdalene " s h e

h a s i n h e r i t e d t h e " Castle of Maudl eyn ." Her beauty and

spl endour ar e suc h that Satan covets them for his ow n

realm and s ummons a council to devise her seduc tion .

This c orresponds to the assembly of Vaiiil i whic h de-

manded the presence of Amrapali . " When the perfecti on

o f h e r y o u t h a n d b e a u t y w e r e s e e n , " t h e y c r i e d , " T h i s i s

a pearl of a woman, and therefore she b elongs to the

e n j o y m e n t s o f t h e p e o p l e . " I n t h e C h r i s t i a n " Mystery "

Satan employs the seven Capital Sins to besi ege Mary

Magdalene, and this way our English translators were

t e m p t e d t o t h e f a l s e h o o d o f i m p o r t i n g t h e w o r d " d e v i l s "

i n t o L u k e v i i i , 2 .

T h e r e i s a n o t h e r i n t e r e s t i n g s t o r y c o n n e c t e d w i t h B e -

nares whic h Mr . R . C . C h i l d e r s g a v e m e , s a y i n g t h a t i t

w a s t r a c e a b l e t o t h e s i x t h c e n t u r y b e f o r e o u r e r a .

There was once a king of Benares named Br ahmadatta,

w h o s e r i g h t e o u s a d m i n i s t r a t i o n o f j u s t i c e p u t a n e n d t o

l i t i g a t i o n i n h i s k i n g d o m , a n d l e f t h i m t i m e t o t u r n h i s

a t t e n t i o n t o h i s o w n f a u l t s , w i t h a v i e w t o t h e i r c o r r e c -

t i o n . H e a c c o r d i n g l y q u e s t i o n e d f i r s t h i s o w n r e t i n u e ,

t h e n t h e p u b l i c o f f i c i a l s , t h e n t h e c i t i z e n s o f B e n a r e s ,

t h e n t h e s u b u r b a n i n h a b i t a n t s , a n d l a s t l y , m o u n t i n g h i s

c h a r i o t , h e d r o v e t h r o u g h t h e l e n g t h a n d b r e a d t h o f t h e

l a n d , b e g g i n g a l l w h o m h e m e t t o t e l l h i m h i s f a u l t s . B u t

a l l w i t h o n e a c c o r d t o l d h i m o n l y o f h i s v i r t u e s , a n d h e

w a s r e t u r n i n g b a f f l e d f r o m h i s e x p e d i t i o n , w h e n i n a n a r -

r o w d e f i l e h i s c h a r i o t m e t t h a t o f M a l l i k a , K i n g o f K o s a l a ,

w h o w a s b o u n d o n a p r e c i s e l y s i m i l a r m i s s i o n . I t a t o n c e

bec ame evi dent that one of the chariots mu st make way

f o r t h e o t h e r , a n d t h e c h a r i o t e e r s o f t h e r i v a l m o n a r c h s

commenced a di spu te for the precedence, whic h seemed

h o p e l e s s w h e n i t w a s a s c e r t a i n e d t h a t n e i t h e r c o u l d c l a i m

any advantage over the other in age, wealth, fame, or

m i l i t a r y p o w e r . A t l e n g t h , h o w e v e r , i t w a s d e c i d e d t h a t

the more virtuou s s hould have the precedence ; and the



2 7 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

c h a r i o t e e r o f K i n g M a l l i k a , c h a l l e n g e d t o d e s c r i b e t h e

v i r t u e s o f h i s r o y a l m a s t e r , r e p l i e s a s f o l l o w s : "K ing

M a l l i k a o v e r t h r o w s t h e s t r o n g b y s t r e n g t h , t h e m i l d b y

m i l d n e s s ; g o o d h e o v e r c o m e s w i t h g o o d , a n d e v i l w i t h

e v i l . " T h e o t h e r c h a r i o t e e r s a i d , " I f t h e s e a r e h i s v i r t u e s ,

w h a t a r e h i s f a u l t s ? " T h e n h e s a i d o f h i s o w n m a s t e r ,

" W i t h m e e k n e s s h e c o n q u e r s a n g e r , h e o v e r c o m e s e v i l

w i t h g o o d , h e d i s a r m s a v a r i c e w i t h l i b e r a l i t y , a n d t h e l i a r

w i t h t r u t h . " H e a r i n g t h i s , M a l l i k a a n d h i s c h a r i o t e e r

a l i g h t , a n d t h e i r c h a r i o t i s d r a w n a s i d e .



C H APT ER XI I I

D e l h i p a l a c e s -P i l l a r o f A s o k a - T h e M i n a r P i l l a r -P u r a n a K e e l s -T h e T a j a t A g r a - A k b a r - T h e P a r l i a m e n t o f R e l i g i o n s -O r i e n t a l

e t h i c s - T h e J e h a n a r a m o s q u e .

AT l a s t I a m i n D e l h i , - c e m e t e r y o f s p l e n d o u r s . Am i d

i t s s i l e n t p a l a c e s t h e f a b l e s o f S a a d i a r e w r i t t e n i n

s t o n e , a n d t h e i r m o r a l s p o i n t e d i n m i n a r e t s . T h e l e g e n d -

a r y H a l l o f A f r a s i a b , w h e r e t h e s p i d e r w e a v e s h i s w e b ,

t h e p l e a s u r e - d o m e o f M a h m o u d , o f w h i c h n o t o n e s t o n e

w a s l e f t u p o n a n o t h e r , r i s e a s t h i n a i r o v e r f i e l d s s t r e w n

w i t h f i n e f r a g m e n t s . On the marbl e vacancy w here the

P e a c o c k t h r o n e o n c e s t o o d - s o l i d g o l d , i n l a i d w i t h g e m s-s i n v i s i b l y s e t t h e i n s c r i p t i o n o f F e r i d e e n ' s p o r t i c o ,

" T h e w o r l d , 0 m y b r o t h e r , c o n t i n u e s n o t t o a n y o n e ; p l a c e

y o u r a f f e c t i o n s o n t h e C r e a t o r o f t h e u n i v e r s e , a n d t h a t

, w i l l s u f f i c e . M a k e n o r e l i a n c e , n e i t h e r r e s t u p o n t h e k i n g -

d o m o f t h i s w o r l d , s e e i n g h o w m a n y l i k e t h y s e l f i t h a t h

n o u r i s h e d a n d k i l l e d . W h e n t h e s o u l i s a b o u t t o d e p a r t ,

w h a t i s d i f f e r e n c e b e t w e e n e x p i r i n g o n a t h r o n e o r o n t h e

bare ground?"

M y g u i d e s u p p o s e d t h a t m y o b j e c t i n c o m i n g t o D e l h i

w a s t o s e e t h e l o c a l i t y o f t h e s i e g e o f 1 8 5 7 a n d i t s m e m o -

r i a l m o n u m e n t , " 1 1 0 f e e t h i g h , b u i l t a t a c o s t o f 2 0 , 0 0 0

r u p e e s . " I t w a s w i t h d i f f i c u l t y t h a t I m a d e h i m u n d e r s t a n d

m y s l i g h t i n t e r e s t i n t h a t l i t t l e a f f a i r , a n d m y d e e p f e e l i n g

a b o u t t h e n e i g h b o u r i n g P i l l a r o f A s o k a , w h i c h s t i l l p u b -

l i s h e s i t s e d i c t s o f p e a c e a n d g o o d w i l l t o m e n . T h i s g u i d e

(H indu ) told me wi th some feeling that the Bri tish

g u n s h a d b r o k e n t h i s P i l l a r o f A s o k a i n t o f i v e f r a g m e n t s .



2 7 8 MY PItG.RIMAGE

The pieces have been put together again as neatly as

p o s s i b l e , a n d t h e p i l l a r s t a n d s b e s i d e t h e m o d e r n m o n u -

ment in a lowly way . T i m e h a s , h o w e v e r , b e t t e r s p a r e d

t h e " G o l d e n P i l l a r . " F i v e c e n t u r i e s a g o l e g e n d d e c l a r e d

i t t h e s t a f f o f K r i s h n a , w h i c h c o u l d n o t b e r e m o v e d f r o m

Kumaon till the Last Day . F e r o z s h a h , t o e n d t h i s s u p e r -

s t i t i o n , r e m o v e d i t t o t h e p r e c i n c t s o f h i s p a l a c e , - a p a l a c e

n o w v i s i b l e o n l y a s t h e p e d e s t a l o f A s o k a ' s P i l l a r , w h i c h

s t i l l s h i n e s g o l d e n i n t h e s u n l i g h t , f u l f i l l i n g i t s f i n a l w o r d s ,

" L e t t h i s r e l i g i o u s e d i c t b e e n g r a v e d o n s t o n e p i l l a r s a n d

s t o n e t a b l e t s , t h a t i t m a y e n d u r e f o r e v e r . "

In a mosque i ts keeper s howed me the footprint of

Mabomed Shah neatl y c a r ve d in mar b l e . The passi on

for holy footprints has gone round the world ; I have

s e e n s c o r e s - f o o t p r i n t s o f V i s h n u , S i v a , B u d d h a , C h r i s t ,

St. Thomas, John Wesley ; a n d t h e g e n e r a l i m p r e s s i o n I

h a v e d e r i v e d f r o m t h e m a l l i s t h a t d e v o t e e s o f t h e g r e a t

a r e a p t t o t a k e t h e i r s a i n t s au p i e d , -a t t h e i r l o w e s t .

O n e m o r n i n g I s t u m b l e d o n a c u r i o u s o l d p l a c e , w h e r e

s t o o d " t h e b l e e d i n g t r e e , " b e s i d e w h i c h a H i n d u w a s k e e p -

ing watch . I n t h i s d e a d t r u n k ' s h o l l o w w a s a p i c t u r e o f

a p r i n c e w i t h s i l v e r h e a d , -the Pri nce Dara beheaded by

his br other Aur ungzeb, - a n d b e s i d e i t a p e r p e t u a l l a m p .

T h e t r e e i s a " Neem," a sacred tree among the Hind us .

T h e M o h a m m e d a n s r e p u d i a t e a n c i e n t t r e e s o r r e l i c s , b u t

t h e H i n d u a t m o s p h e r e i s t o o s t r o n g f o r t h e m .

There are also moral relics of Moslem supr emacy . At

t h e d o w n f a l l o f t h e i r r e i g n t h e h a r e m s o f t h e s e p a l a c e s

were sud denly emptied . T h e h e l p l e s s b e a u t i e s o f f a m o u s

c o u r t s w e r e t h r o w n u p o n t h e s t r e e t s t o m a k e a c o m m u n a l

harem . T h e y w h o s e p r e d e c e s s o r s w e r e t h e f a v o u r i t e s o f '

s h a h s a n d v i z i e r s f l a u n t e d t h e i r s e d u c t i v e b e a u t y a l o n g

t h e b a l c o n i e s , a n d I s a w i n t h e s t r e e t s a p a r a d e , w i t h m u s i c ,



DELHI 9. 7 9

o f y o u n g w o m e n s a i d t o b e o f t h i s c l a s s . O c c a s i o n a l l y

they may be s een dancing near the gate of the great

m o s q u e , e s p e c i a l l y o n F r i d a y s , w h e n t h o u s a n d s o f M o s l e m s

r e p a i r t h i t h e r f o r p r a y e r .

I saw a decorated li ttle boy mounted on an orna-

m e n t a l p o n y , a t t e n d e d b y p r i e s t s a n d a b a n d o f m u s i c , o n

h i s w a y t o t h e m a r r i a g e a l t a r , f o l l o w e d b y a c l o s e d p a l a n -

q u i n , w h o s e s m a l l n e s s d i s c l o s e d h o w y o u n g m u s t b e t h e

b r i de o f t h a t l i t t l e l o r d .

I b a d a h o t - a i r b a t h i n D e l h i ; t h e r o o m w a s l o w - v a u l t e d ,

w i t h m o s a i c f l o o r , a n d l i k e t h o s e p o r t r a y e d i n a n c i e n t , P e r -

s i a n p i c t u r e s . B u t I c o u l d n o t g e t t h e f u l l e r ' s e a r t h w h i c h

i n s p i r e d S a a d i ' s f a b l e . I n a b a t h a t D a m a s c u s t h e y g a v e

h i m f u l l e r ' s e a r t h ( l o n g w r a p t i n r o s e - l e a v e s ) , a n d he

a s k e d i t w h e t h e r i t w a s o f h e a v e n o r e a r t h , s o s w e e t w a s

i t s o d o u r . I t r e p l i e d , " I a m b u t h u m b l e c l a y , b u t s o m e -

t i m e I k e p t c o m p a n y w i t h t h e r o s e . " P e r f u m e s a r e s t i l l

dear to the Mosl em, Mohammed's love of them having

g i v e n f r e e d o m t o t h i s k i n d o f l u x u r y .

O l d D e l h i i s e l e v e n m i l e s d i s t a n t f r o m t h e m a i n c i t y .

I n t h e f a m o u s p i l l a r M i n a r ( 2 3 8 f e e t a n d 1 i n c h ) a r e

insc ri ptions f rom the Koran and the ninety names of

A l l a h , a l s o t h e l a u d a t i o n s o f M a z o o d e e n A b d u l , M u z a f u r

Mahome d B in Sam . O n t h e n e i g h b o u r i n g i r o n p i l l a r ,

o n e R a j a h D h a v a i s c o m p a r e d t o t h e s u n a n d m o o n . T r a -

d i t i o n ' h a s , h o w e v e r , b e e n u n c o m p l i m e n t a r y e n o u g h t o

a s s o c i a t e w i t h t h e i r o n p i l l a r t h e f a m e o f R a j a h P i t h o r a ,

t h e l a s t o f t h e H i n d u s o v e r e i g n s . T h e l e g e n d i s t h a t

R a j a h P i t h o r a , h a v i n g c o n s u l t e d t h e B r a h m a n s a s t o t h e

c o n t i n u a n c e o f h i s e m p i r e , w a s i n f o r m e d t h a t i f h e s a n k

a n i r o n s h a f t i n t o t h e g r o u n d h e m i g h t p i e r c e t h e h e a d o f

t h e s n a k e - g o d L i s h a y , w h o s u p p o r t s t h e w o r l d , a n d t h e n

h i s k i n g d o m w o u l d l a s t f o r e v e r . S o m e t i m e a f t e r s i n k i n g



2 80 MY PILGRIMAGE

t h e s h a f t t h e R a j a h w a s d e s i r o u s o f d i s c o v e r i n g w h e t h e r

t h e s n a k e h a d b e e n t o u c h e d , a n d , c o n t r a r y t o t h e w a r n i n g

o f t h e B r a h m a n s , h a d t h e p i l l a r t a k e n u p . T h e e n d o f i t

w a s c o v e r e d w i t h b l o o d , a n d t h e R a j a h w a s i n f o r m e d t h a t

his d ynasty would soon cease . Although the pillar w as

a g a i n s e t u p , t h e c h a r m h a d b e e n b r o k e n ; Shahaboodeen

took Pithora's li fe and k ingdom, and thenceforth no

H i n d u k i n g h a s r e i g n e d i n D e l h i .

Fr om the top of the Minar is seen an interminabl e

cemetery of sultans, shahs, and su bli me cour tiers . Ap i c t u r e o f s p l e n d i d d e s o l a t i o n ! O n o n e t o m b s a t a k i t e ,

a n d o n a n o t h e r t w o o w l s , w h o s e a n c e s t o r s s o m e c e n t u r i e s

a g o e n a b l e d a c e r t a i n p o e t t o b r i n g a s h a h t o a s e n s e o f

h i s w i c k e d n e s s . As they drove past a rui n the shah and

h i s c o u r t p o e t p a s s e d t w o o w l s s e a t e d o n t h e r u i n , a n d t h e

shah remarked that they seemed to be conversi ng . The

p o e t s a i d , " Yes, and I c an understand what they say . "

"What do they s ay?" asked the shah . "They are utter-

i n g t h e p r a i s e s o f y o u r M a j e s t y , a n d s a y i n g t h a t s o l o n g

a s y o u r r e i g n c o n t i n u e s , t h e y w i l l n e v e r w a n t f o r r u i n e d

v i l l a g e s i n w h i c h t o h o u s e t h e m s e l v e s ." The s hah took

t h e s e w o r d s t o h e a r t a n d m e n d e d h i s w a y s , a s t h e y a l w a y s

d o i n f a b l e s .

N e a r o l d D e l h i I v i s i t e d t h e t o m b o f t h e p o e t K h r u s -

r o o , a t t h e s i d e o f w h i c h s t a n d s t h e g r a n d e r m a u s o l e u m o f

h i s p a t r o n N i z a m - o o d e n , - s u p p o s e d f o u n d e r o f t h e o r d e r

of devout murderers c alled Thugs . The inhabi tants of

o n e v i l l a g e , g e n e r a l l y a v o i d e d b y t o u r i s t s , s t r u c k m e a s

a n u n c a n n y s e t , a n d I w a s n o t s o r r y t o l e a v e t h e i r n e i g h -

bourhood . I n t h i s v i c i n i t y I h a d t h e g o o d f o r t u n e t o f i n d

in the magistrac y a young gentleman I had met in Cam-

bri dge Universi ty (Mr . R e n n i e ) . Hi s offic e was in the

rehabili tated tomb of some old s hah . He dr ove about



THE BROKEN PITCHER 2 8 1

w i t h m e du ri ng the morning, and I learned fr om him

t h a t p e t t y c r i m e a m o n g t h e n a t i v e s i s e n c o u r a g e d b y t h e

s u p e r i o r i t y o f t h e p r i s o n s t o t h e i r d w e l l i n g s .

T h e h o l l o w t a n k s o f t h e n e i g h b o u r h o o d a r e n o w s u n k e n

a n d s t a g n a n t p o o l s ; where pilgri ms once washed their

s i n s a w a y b o y s n o w e a r n p i c e b y m a k i n g f r i g h t f u l l e a p s

f r o m t h e l o f t y w a l l s . H a v i n g s e e n o n e o f t h e s e l e a p s , I

r e f u s e d t h e r e q u e s t o f o t h e r s t o w i t n e s s t h e i r p e r f o r m -

a n c e s , s a y i n g t o m y g u i d e , " I d o n o t w i s h t o s e e a n y t h i n g

t h a t e n d a n g e r s l i f e . " H e r e p l i e d , " B u t , s i r , t h i s i s t h e i r

l i f e . "

I n d r i v i n g o n I s a w a p i c t u r e s q u e o l d H i n d u w i t h a

s m a l l p i t c h e r o f y e l l o w c l a y i n h i s h a n d n e a r a n o l d w e l l .

B e i n g t h i r s t y a f t e r a l o n g d r i v e , I m a d e my d r i v e r s t o p

t h e r e a n d a s k f o r a d r a u g h t o f w a t e r . The old H indu

made me obeis ance, and fr om the buck et he bad ju st

d r a w n u p f i l l e d t h e l i t t l e p i t c h e r a n d o f f e r e d i t t o m e .

When I had q uenched my thirst and handed back the

p i t c h e r , h e t o s s e d i t o n t h e g r o u n d a l i t t l e w a y a n d a g a i n

made obeis ance . My guid e told me that it was out of

r e s p e c t , a n d I h a v e m a n y a t i m e s e e n i n E u r o p e a w i n e -

g l a s s b r o k e n a f t e r t h e t o a s t t o s o m e g r e a t m a n o r h i s

memo r y . B ut s omething in the old man's pr oceeding

m a d e m e d o u b t t h i s i n t e r p r e t a t i o n . I b a d e m y g u i d e t e l l

h i m t h a t I w a s s o r r y t h e p r e t t y l i t t l e v e s s e l w a s b r o k e n ,

a n d t h a t I w o u l d g l a d l y h a v e p u r c h a s e d i t t o t a k e h o m e

wi th me . The old Hindu , who did not speak E nglis h,

s a i d t o m y g u i d e t h a t i t w a s n o t p o s s i b l e o n a c c o u n t o f

t h e i r r e l i g i o n t h a t h e o r a n y o f h i s f a m i l y s h o u l d d r i n k

o u t o f a v e s s e l t h a t h a d b e e n u s e d b y a s t r a n g e r . By"

r e l i g i o n " h e r e a l l y m e a n t h i s c a s t e . H e w a s v e r y k i n d l y

a n d p o l i t e , a n d r e q u e s t i n g m e t o w a i t a moment, went to

h i s h o u s e n e a r b y a n d b r o u g h t m e t h r e e l i t t l e p i e c e s o f



2 8 2 M Y P I LG R I M AG E

d i f f e r e n t s h a p e d v e s s e l s o f b a k e d c l a y , w h i c h h e b e g g e d

m e t o * a c c e p t . I a s k e d m y d r i v e r h o w m u c h t h e y w e r e

w o r t h a n d w a s t o l d t h a t t h e y w e r e v e r y c h e a p . I o f f e r e d

t h e o l d m a n a r u p e e f o r e a c h , b u t h e a b s o l u t e l y r e f u s e d

t o r e c e i v e p a y m e n t . H e s a i d t o m y g u i d e t h a t i t w a s a

h a p p i n e s s t o h i m t o p r e s e n t a n y t h i n g t h a t h e c o u l d t o

a p a s s i n g t r a v e l l e r .

A l a d d i n ' s t o w e r ! I f o u n d m y s e l f c h i l d i s h e n o u g h t o

e n j o y m o s t t h e a s s o c i a t i o n o f A l a d d i n w i t h t h e f i n e s t

p i e c e o f a r c h i t e c t u r e h e r e . T h e a s s o c i a t i o n o f A l t o m i s b ,

w h o f r o m a s l a v e b e c a m e e m p e r o r , w i t h t h e h e r o o f t h e

W o n d e r f u l L a m p w a s a r b i t r a r y o f c o u r s e ; b u t , a s T a l l e y -

r a n d s a i d , f a c t s a r e m a n a g e a b l e . " T h e u n f i n i s h e d w i n d o w

o f A l a d di n " i s f a i r l y r e p r e s e n t e d ; o n e o f t h e e n t r a n c e s

o f t h e s u p e r b s t r u c t u r e h a d l o s t i t s o r n a m e n t a l e d g e .

A g e n u i n e p o e t i c c h a r m i n v e s t e d t h e a n c i e n t f o r t i f i e d

v i l l a g e P u r a n a K e e l a . I n m y y o u t h E m e r s o n l o a n e d me

t h e B h a g a v a t G i t a ( W i l k i n s ' s t r a n s l a t i o n ) , a n d m y i n t e r -

e s t i n o r i e n t a l t h o u g h t b e g a n w i t h t h e d i a l o g u e b e t w e e n

A r j u n a a n d K r i s h n a . L a t e r I f o u n d t h e w h ol e s t o r y o f

t h e M a h a b h a r a t a f i n e l y t o l d b y m y f r i e n d M r s . M a n n i n g

i n h e r " A n c i e n t a n d M e d i ae v a l I n d i a . " E v e n fo r t y y e a rs

a g o o n e h a d t o s e a r c h o u t w h a t i s n o w a c c e s s i b l e t o a l l .

I t w a s t h r i l l i n g t o f i n d m y s e l f a t t h e p i l l a r e d g a t e w a y o f

t h e f o r t i f i e d c i t y , t r a d i t i o n a l l y s u p p o s e d t o b e t h e c a p i t a l

o f t h e P a n d a v a s d u r i n g t h e i r l o n g s t r u g g l e w i t h t h e K u -

r a v as . H e r e d w e l t D r a u p a d i a n d h e r f i v e h u s b a n d s - t h e

P a n d u p r i n c e s . F r o m t h e s e g a t e s w e n t f o r t h A r j u n a h i m -

s e l f , d r i v e n b y t h e c h a r i o t e e r w h o p r e s e n t l y r e v e a l e d

h i m s e l f a s t h e g o d K r i s h n a . I t w a s o n y o n d e r f i e l d t h a t

t h e h e r o w e p t a n d d e c l a r e d t h a t h e c o u l d n o t f i g h t a g a i n s t

h i s k i n d r e d , w h e n t h e c h a r i o t e e r , t h r o w i n g o f f h i s d i s -

g u i s e , u t t e r e d t o h i m t h o s e w o n d e r f u l d i s c o u r s e s w h i c h



CASTLE OF TH E PANDAVAS



LEGEND OF YUDHISHTHIRA 283

h a v e become H o l y S c r i p t u r e s t o t h e m y s t i c a l o r i e n t a l

minds turning from Hindui sm . I t w a s a r o u n d t h e s e s t i l l

m i g h t y w a l l s t h a t t h e g o d s d e s c e n d e d t o t a k e p a r t i n t h e

s t r u g g l e ; and w hen the ki ngdom of the Pandavas w as

e s t a b l i s h e d , h e r e w a s t h e s c e n e o f t h e G o l d e n A g e : "every

s u b j e c t o f t h e R a j a h Y u d h i s h t h i r a w a s p i o u s ; t h e r e w e r e

n o l i a r s , n o t h i e v e s , n o s w i n d l e r s ; t h e r e w e r e n o d r o u g h t s ,

n o f l o o d s , n o l o c u s t s , n o c o n f l a g r a t i o n s , n o f o r e i g n i n -

v a d e r s , a n d n o p a r r o t s t o e a t u p t h e g r a i n . "

I t w a s f r o m t h i s p l a c e t h a t , w h e n h i s k i n g d o m w a s l o s t

b y d i c e , Y u d b i s h t h i r a w i t h h i s w i f e D r a u p a d i a n d f a m i l y

w e n t t o w a n d e r i n t h e j u n g l e f o r t w e l v e y e a r s . One by

one the ki ng's companions per is hed by the way, and

D r a u p a d i h e r s e l f . H e w a s a l o n e a t l a s t , w i t h o n l y h i s

f a i t h f u l d o g t o k e e p h i m c o m p a n y . H e c o m e s t o t h e g a t e

o f I n d r a . T h e K i n g o f G o d s m e e t s h i m a n d t e l l s h i m t h a t

i n h e a v e n h e s h a l l f i n d a g a i n h i s b r o t h e r s a n d h i s w i f e .

W i t h j o y Y u d h i s b t h i r a i s a b o u t t o e n t e r , w h e n I n d r a d r i v e s

away his dog . Y u d h i s h t h i r a c a n n o t p a r t f r o m t h i s f a i t h -

fu l c ompanion, who never d eserted him, and b rought

g a m e f r o m t h e f o r e s t , t h o u g h s t a r v i n g i t s e l f . I n d r a d e -

c l a r e s , " M y h e a v e n h a t h n o p l a c e f o r d o g s , " b u t Y u d h i s h -

t h i r a r e f u s e s t o e n t e r h e a v e n u n l e s s h i s d o g m a y e n t e r

a l s o . H i s f i d e l i t y t o t h e f a i t h f u l a n i m a l t h u s h a v i n g b e e n

p r o v e d , t h e d o g h i m s e l f t h r o w s o f f h i s d i s g u i s e a n d a p -

p e a r s a s Y a m a , K i n g o f D e a t h . A l l t h e p a i n s a n d t r i a l s

o f t h e l o n g w a n d e r i n g a r e p r o v e d t o b e i l l u s i o n s , a n d t h e

t r i a l s o f t h e P a n d a v a s e n d i n j o y , l i k e t h o s e t h a t c l o s e

t h e k i n d r e d d r a m a o f J o b .

I n s i d e t h e v a s t f o r t r e s s a s s o c i a t e d w i t h t h e p o e t i c l e -

g e n d s ( I h a v e m e n t i o n e d b u t o n e ) i s a v i l l a g e o f t h e p o o r -

e s t p e o p l e I s a w a n y w h e r e i n t h e E a s t . T h e i r h o u s e s a r e l i k e

a n t - h i l l s , w i t h l i t t l e c u r v i n g p a t h s r u n n i n g b e t w e e n t h e m ,



2 84 MY PILGRIMAGE

and my guid e says, "N obody k nows how they manage to

l i v e ." What a contrast wi th the legendary spl endours

c o n n e c t e d w i t h t h a t c a s t l e a n d f o r t r e s s ! It may have

been partly my i magination that gave the men and wo-

m e n t h e i r a r i s t o c r a t i c a i r . Several women appeared w hose

f e a t u r e s w e r e n o t u n w o r t h y o f D r a u p a d i h e r s e l f . A very

hands ome little boy of ten summers - no winters seemed

to have touched him-v o l u n t e e r e d t o d o t h e h o n o u r s o f

t h e l i t t l e c i t y o f h u t s . I n f r o n t o f e a c h t h e r e w a s a g r o u p

o f b u s y w o m en ; I d id not encounter a b eggar there .

T h e o n l y e d i f i c e o f i m p o r t a n c e w i t h i n t h e f o r t r e s s w a s a n

ancient mosqu e. Workmen were engaged in repai ri ng it

-"by order of the government," I was told . I c o u l d n o t

h e l p t h i n k i n g t h a t t h e o l d m o s q u e m i g h t w e l l e n o u g h w a i t

until the livi ng temples around it w ere better housed .

S u c h , n o d o u b t , w o u l d h a v e b e e n t h e d e c r e e o f t h e B u d -

d h i s t A s o k a , w h o s e p i l l a r , w i t h i t s h u m a n e e d i c t s , s h i n e s

a g a i n s t t h e b l u e s k y a s I l e a v e t h e g a t e s o f t h i s c a s t l e , s o

h a u n t e d w i t h p o e t r y a n d p o v e r t y .

Let that day be marked round wi th a many-colou red

p e n c i l o f l i g h t w h e n I f i r s t s a w t h e T a j ! F o r t h a t b e a u t i -

f u l d r e a m i n m a r b l e s t a n d s i n m y m e m o r y t i n t e d w i t h t h e

r o s e o f d a w n b e n e a t h w h i c h I f i r s t b e h e l d i t , a n d f l u s h e d

w i t h t h e s o f t e v e n i n g s k y w h e n I p a r t e d f r o m i t ; a n d b e -

t w e e n t h e d a w n a n d t h e m o o n r i s e , a s I r e t u r n e d t o i t a g a i n

a n d a g a i n , I b e h e l d n o t o n e T a j b u t m a n y . A s t h e s t a t u e

of Memnon was said to emit mus ic when the su n touc hed

i t , o n e m a y s a y w i t h o u t f a b l e t h a t t h e c h a n g i n g s k y o f t h e

d a y b r i n g s f o r t h v a r i e d a r c h i t e c t u r a l h a r m o n i e s f r o m t h e

Taj . N o w i t i s o f t h e f a i n t e s t s n o w - b l u e t i n t , n o w p u r e s t

w h i t e , a n d a g a i n p i n k - f a i n t i n i t s r e s p o n s e t o d a w n o r

s u n s e t .

When wander ing about the great mosqu e-li ke tombs



THE TAJ AT AGRA 2 8 5

e l s e w h e r e a n d s e e i n g t h e l i f e o f t h e p e o p l e b e s i d e t h e m ,

i t s e e m e d p a i n f u l t h a t t h e d e a d s h o u l d s l e e p i n p a l a c e s

w h i l e s o m a n y o f t h e l i v i n g b u r r o w e d i n m u d h u t s . This

f e e l i n g d i d n o t m a r t h e h a p p i n e s s w i t h w h i c h I b e h e l d t h e

T a j , f o r I f e l t t h a t L o v e b u i l t i t i n i t s b e a u t y -h a t i t

h a d h e r e c r e a t e d a m y s t i c a l r o s e i n w h o s e l i g h t a n d j o y

a l l t h e l i v i n g f i n d a f a i r e r l i f e . I t i s l i t e r a l l y , t o o , a s w e l l

a s s p i r i t u a l l y , t h e t r e a s u r y o f t h e p e o p l e o f A g r a . A young

A m e r i c a n l a d y I s a w t h e r e s e e m e d t o r e q u i r e m o r e s h a d e s

f o r t h e s e l i n e s o f l i g h t . " I s i t c e r t a i n , " s h e s a i d , " e n -

t i r e l y c e r t a i n , t h a t S h a h J e h a n b u i l t i t f o r l o v e o f h i s

w i f e ? W a s h e n o t t h i n k i n g o f h i m s e l f a t a l l ? A h , I ' m

s u r e b e m a r r i e d s o m e b o d y e l s e b e f o r e h i s q u e e n ' s m o n u -

m e n t w a s f i n i s h e d . " I d o n o t k n o w t h a t s h e r e m e m b e r e d

t h e f a c t t h a t t h e q u e e n b e g g e d S h a h J e h a n n o t t o m a r r y

a g a i n a n d " g e t c h i l d r e n t o c o n t e n d w i t h h e r s f o r h i s

f a v o u r a n d d o m i n i o n s , " b u t i t w a s s o m e r e a s s u r a n c e t o

r e m e m b e r n o w t h a t i t i s a l l o n e t o t h o s e c o n c e r n e d , a n d

t h a t p o p u l a r s e n t i m e n t h a s s m o t h e r e d i n o b l i v i o n a n y

s u b s e q u e n t w i f e o r c h i l d r e n , i f t h e s h a h h a d s u c h .

I t w o u l d r e q u i r e a v o l u m e t o e x p l o r e t h e f l o r a o f t h e

T a j a l o n e ;i n i t s o r n a m e n t a t i o n t h e r a r e s t f l o w e r s a n d

l e a v e s a r e t r a c e a b l e , a n d t h e w a y i n w h i c h t h e y t w i n e a n d

f r a m e t h e s e n t e n c e s o f t h e K o r a n r e m i n d s o n e o f t h e p l e a -

s a n t f a c t t h a t t h e m a t e r i a l s o f a n c i e n t l i t e r a t u r e w e r e t h e

l e a v e s , b a r k, o r t a b l e t s o f t r e e s , s t i l l p r e s e r v e d i n t h e w o r d s

p a p e r , l i b r a r y , b o o k .

B e s i d e t h e T a j f l o w s t h e J u m n a , o n w h o s e b a n k s K r i s h n a

d w e l t a m o n g t h e m i l k m a i d s , c h a r m e d t h e l o w l y w i t h h i s

l u t e , a n d d a n c e d w i t h t h e r u s t i c b e a u t i e s i n t h o s e m a r v e l -

l o u s d a n c e s w h e r e e a c h b e l i e v e d t h a t h e w a s h e r p a r t n e r .

I t i s a p e a c e f u l , l a n g u i d r i v e r , w i t h a l t e r n a t i n g m e a d -

o w s a n d s a n d y b e a c h e s , w h e r e i n t h e w a r m m o r n i n g t h e

1



t


m i l d - e y e d l o t u s - e a t e r s w e r e v i s i b l e s e a t e d o n t h e y e l l o w

sand or bathing in the sacred stream . The whole land-

s c a p e w a s a p i c t u r e o f p a s t o r a l b e a u t y . T h e r e a r e b e a u t i -

ful riv ersid e gardens, w ell kept, one being the Asam

Bogh, where Babar, f ounder of the Mogul dy nasty, had

h i s f o u n t a i n o f w i n e a n d h i s r e v e l s .

B u t a l l e m p e r o r s a r e d w a r f e d i n p r e s e n c e o f t h e s h a d e

of Akbar . H i s t o m b i s f i v e m i l e s f r o m A g r a , a n d t h e r o a d

i s v e r y p l e a s a n t , p a s t i n t e r e s t i n g o l d p l a c e s o f w h i c h p l e a -

s a n t s t o r i e s a r e t o l d a n d s o m e u n p l e a s a n t o n e s f o r g o t t e n .

An old chu rc h recalls the catholici ty of Akb ar and the

w i t o f h i s s o n w h o p r o p o s e d t h a t t h e J e s u i t F a t h e r w i t h

h i s G o s p e l u n d e r h i s a r m , a n d t h e M o l l a h w i t h t h e K o r a n

u n d e r h i s , s h o u l d t r y t h e v i r t u e o f t h e i r r e s p e c t i v e b e l i e f s

b y c a s t i n g t h e m s e l v e s t o g e t h e r i n t o a f i e r y p i t , p r o m i s i n g

to embrace the reli gion of the one that came out safe .

T h i s a p p e a r s , h o w e v e r , t o h a v e b e e n s o m e w h a t o f a d e c l i n e

fr om the large way of Akbar . His mausoleum is second

o n l y t o t h e T a j i n b e a u t y . B u t I c o u l d n o t h e l p f e e l i n g

that the Albert Memorial in Hy de Park, w ith all i ts

f a u l t s , r e p r e s e n t s a n a d v a n c e i n t h e i d e a o f a g r e a t m a n ' s

memori al . How f ar more preciou s to us now than this

great silent palace ris ing over the small marbl e tomb

w o u l d b e a p e d e s t a l c a r v e d w i t h t h e f o r m s a n d f a c e s o f

the men of all religi ons who gathered around Akbar i n

his wonderful assemblies ! H o w va l ua b le wo u l d be a

s t a t u e t h e r e o f A k b a r h i m s e l f , a n d s t a t u e s o f h i s s c h o l a r l y

f r i e n d s , -A b u l f a z l , B i r B a r , a n d F a i z i t h e p o e t , w h o d e -

s c r i b e d h i m s e l f a s " a f r e e t h i n k e r w h o b e l o n g s t o a t h o u -

s a n d s e c t s ! "

A k b a r ' s p a l a c e i n A g r a i s b e a u t i f u l , a n d h a s t h e c h a r m

o f h o l d i n g t h e m a r b l e s l a b o n w h i c h h i s t h r o n e r e s t e d .

It might be called Akbar 's Vedi, or pul pit-"the p u l p i t



AKBAR 2 8 7

o f l i g h t " o f w h i c h h i s f r i e n d F a i z i w r o t e . H ere he sat

t o j u d g e h i s p e o p l e . T h e r e i s a r e d s t a i n o n i t , s a i d t o b e

o f b l o o d , a s i f t h e m a r b l e s t i l l r e m e m b e r e d t h e h e a r t ' s

blood of a tru e man . Before this marble dais c ame the

learned men from all parts of the world, and f rom the

r e l i g i o u s c a m p s i n t o w h i c h c r e e d s b a d d i v i d e d i t . E a c h

b r o u g h t h i s S a c r e d B o o k s , - stud ied by Akbar seven gen-

erations before known to the scholars of Eur ope, -and

each bad his gospel and his argument heard and heeded .

None was permitted to aff ront another ; the throne of

o n e e m p e r o r a t l e a s t s h o u l d b e t h e t h r o n e o f i m p a r t i a l

jus tice and calm reason ! Three hundred years b efore

A k b a r t h e s a m e l a r g e h o s p i t a l i t y t o a l l r e l i g i o u s i d e a s

a n d s y s t e ms w a s k n o w n i n C h i n a b e f o r e a n e m p er o r

whose hard Moslem faith had been softened by B udd hism

-e v e n i n t h a t s t a t e l y " pleasure-d ome " of Kub la Khan,

w h i c h s o m e s u p p o s e t h e d r e a m o f C o l e r i d g e .

B u t i t r e a p p e a r e d i n t h e J u m n a , b e s i d e w h i c h r o s e t h i s

pleasur e-dome and palace of truth, where Akb ar br ought

I n d i a i t s d a y o f g r a c e , s o s o o n s i n n e d a w a y ! There are

s o m e i n d i c a t i o n s i n t h e a n c i e n t a c c u s a t i o n s b r o u g h t a g a i n s t

S o l o m o n f o r i d o l a t r y t h a t t h e w i s e k i n g w a s t h e p r o t o t y p e

o f t h e s e o r i e n t a l l i b e r a l s . T h e y a r e a l l f a i r l y f o l l o w e d b y

t h e c a t h o l i c i t y o f t h e E n g l i s h r e g i m e , w h i c h m a i n t a i n s

p e r f e c t e q u a l i t y o f a l l r e l i g i o n s , a n d p r o t e c t s e v e r y t e m p l e

a n d e v e r y s o - c a l l e d " i d o l " f r o m a f f r o n t .

T h e c h i e f o b s t a c l e t o a f u l l a p p r e c i a t i o n o f t h e p o e t i c

ideals embodied in oriental mythology by English and

A m e r i c a n p e o p l e l i e s i n o u r e t h i c a l l i m i t a t i o n s . I t r e -

q u i r e s c l o s e s t u d y o f t h e e a r l y s o c i a l c o n d i t i o n s o f I n d i a

to see that the morality b y which the legends and im-

a g e s o f I n d i a a r e j u d g e d i s t h e r e s u l t o f l o c a l c o n d i t i o n s ,

a n d i t s s t a n d a r d p r o v i n c i a l . A l l t h r o u g h t h i s r e g i o n t h e




legends of Kr ishna and his dances wi th the milk maids,

m u l t i p l y i n g h i m s e l f m i r a c u l o u s l y , a r e p a r t i c u l a r l y s t r o n g .

To the average Englishman they s uggest immoral i deas,

a n d i t i s r a r e t o f i n d a m i n d s o e l e v a t e d a s R e n a n , w h o

intended to compose a sacr ed ball et on Kris hna . The

s c i e n t i f i c m i n d g u a r d s i t s e l f f r o m c o n f u s i n g e v e n s u c h

i n s t i t u t i o n s a s p o l y g a m y a n d p o l y a n d r y w i t h i m m o r a l i t y .

I m m o r a l i t y d e p e n d s o n t h e a c t u a l w r o n g s c a u s e d , n o t o n

the supposed spiritual injur ies, by any conduct . In a

c o n f e r e n c e o f P r o t e s t a n t m i s s i o n a r i e s a t C a l c u t t a i t w a s

m a d e c l e a r t h a t i t w o u l d b e u n j u s t a n d c r u e l , t h e r e f o r e

i m m o r a l , f o r t h e i r H i n d u c o n v e r t s t o s e n d a l l t h e i r w i v e s

a d r i f t e x c e p t o n e . T h i s c o n f e r e n c e , c o n s i s t i n g o f E p i s -

c o p a l i a n s , P r e s b y t e r i a n s , M e t h o d i s t s , B a p t i s t s , I n d e p e n d -

e n t s , c a m e u n a n i m o u s l y t o t h i s c o n c l u s i o n : -

I f a c o n v e r t , b e f o r e b e c o m i n g a C h r i s t i a n , h a s m a r r i e d

m o r e w i v e s t h a n o n e , i n a c c o r d a n c e w i t h t h e p r a c t i c e o f

t h e J e w i s h a n d p r i m i t i v e C h r i s t i a n c h u r c h e s , h e s h a l l b e

p e r m i t t e d t o k e e p t h e m a l l , b u t s u c h a p e r s o n i s n o t e l i -

g i b l e t o a n y o f f i c e i n t h e c h u r c h .

Although General Sleeman, in his del ightfu l " R a m -

b l e s , " a n d o t h e r s , h a v e s a i d m u c h o f t h e v i r t u e s o f t h e

Emperor Akbar's w if e, there would appear to be some

p o s s i b i l i t i e s t h a t t h e f a t h e r o f h e r f i r s t s o n a f t e r h i s m a r -

r i a g e w a s t h e f a m o u s h e r m i t t o w h o m t h e c h i l d l e s s p a i r

c a m e f o r m i r a c u l o u s a s s i s t a n c e . T h e h i s t o r i a n s a r e c a r e -

f u l t o s a y t h a t t h i s h e r m i t , S h e i k S a l e e n , w a s n i n e t y - s i x

y e a r s o l d . T h e s t a t e m e n t b e a r s a s u s p i c i o u s r e s e m b l a n c e

to the extreme age ascr ib ed to Abr aham, and in medi -

aeval art to the hus band of Mary . This eld est son of

Akbar and the Hindu pr incess w ho had become his wi fe,

b o r n 1 5 6 9 , w a s a t a n y r a t e n a m e d S a l e e n a f t e r t h e h e r -

m i t . H e a s c e n d e d t h e t h r o n e u n d e r t h e n a m e o f J e h a n g i r ,



A DROLL ADVENTURE 2 8 9

a n d , i f i n d e e d h e w e r e t h e h e r m i t ' s s o n , d i d m o r e j u s t i c e

t o h i s a m a t o r y p r o p e n s i t i e s t h a n t o t h e g o o d n a m e o f

A k b a r . I n o b t a i n i n g h i s w i f e , h e w e n t b e y o n d t h e e x a m -

p l e o f D a v i d i n t h e U r i a h a f f a i r , w h i c h i t c l o s e l y r e s e m -

b l e s i n a l l e x c e p t t h e r e p e n t a n c e .

T h a t t h e g r e a t - h e a r t e d A k b a r ' s l i b e r a l i t y a n d t o l e r -

a n c e s h o u l d h a v e p r o v e d t h e v e r y m e a n s o f l e a d i n g o n

t h e s t r i f e , c r u e l t i e s , m u r d e r s , w h i c h c u l m i n a t e d i n t h e

enthronement of Aur ungzeb, the murd erous 1 1 Man of

Prayers," i s enough to make one a pessi mist . While

m o v i n g a m o n g t h e m e m o r i a l s o f t h e s e e v e n t s I c a m e u p o n

a f a i r s y m b o l o f t h a t s a i n t l y a s s a s s i n - a h u g e c r o c o d i l e

j u s t c a u g h t i n t h e J u m n a . I t s f a c e a n d t h e h u n g r y c r u -

e l t y o f i t s r o a m i n g e y e w e r e a s t u d y . I t w a s d r a g o n - l i k e ,

a n d t h e c r o w d o f h a l f - n a k e d , d u s k y p e o p l e a r o u n d t h i s

r e p t i l e , w e l l s e c u r e d w i t h r o p e s , o p e n e d a s o r t o f v i s t a

i n t o t h e s a u r i a n a g e . T h e S t . G e o r g e w h o h a d c o n q u e r e d

t h e m o n s t e r w a s m a k i n g m o n e y b y i t , a s i t i s s a i d t h e

s a i n t d i d .

A n d n o w I h a d a d r o l l a d v e n t u r e i n t h i s c r o w d . I h a d

managed, or thought I had, to convey to my gui de my

d e s i r e t o s e e t h e p o o r e s t p a r t s o f A g r a - d w e l l i n g s o f

t h e p o o r . I t p u z z l e d h i m e x c e e d i n g l y . After pr ofound

m e d i t a t i o n o n w h a t I h a d s a i d , b y t h e a s s i s t a n c e o f a

c h a n c e B a b u , h e d i r e c t e d t h e d r i v e r t o s t o p i n t h e m i d -

d l e o f t h e s t r e e t . H e t h e n w e n t f o r t h r i g h t a n d l e f t a n d

b r o u g h t b a c k a s w a r m o f r a g g e d a n d m u t i l a t e d b e g g a r s ,

a n d p o i n t i n g t o t h e m , s a i d , - T h e r e ! there!" or some-

t h i n g t h a t s o u n d e d l i k e t h o s e w o r d s . H e e v i d e n t l y h a d

c o n c l u d e d t h a t m y d e s i r e w a s t o f o r m a s o r t o f c o l l e c t i o n

o f A g r a p a u p e r s a n d d e f o r m i t i e s . I n o n e m i n u t e m y c a r -

r i a g e w a s c o m p l e t e l y b l o c k e d b y a c r o w d o f t h e s e w r e t c h e d

p e o p l e h o l d i n g o u t t h e i r h a n d s a n d t h e i r b a b i e s , w i t h



t o o MY PILGRIMAGE

cries of "Boxes" (Baksheesb) . F o r t u n a t e l y , I w a s p r o -

vi ded w ith pic e enough to diver t the attention of the

cr owd to another part of the street by throwing them

t h e r e . In this way w e escaped fr om the siege, and al-

t h o u g h I w a s f o l l o w e d b y c e r t a i n b e g g a r s w h o s e m u t i - s

lations made them swif t, found r efuge in the Ju mna

Mo s q u e .

The Jumna Mosque, b ui lt in honour of the Pri ncess

J e h a n a r a , -w h b w i t h h e r b r o t h e r D a r a ( m u r d e r e d b y h i s

brother Aurungzeb) had maintained the great liber alism

of their grandfather (Akbar) , - h a s f i t l y b e c o m e a s s o -

c i a t e d w i t h s c h o o l s i n w h i c h v a r i o u s l a n g u a g e s a n d l i t -

e r a t u r e s a r e t a u g h t . O n t h e r i g h t o f t h e g r e a t c o u r t t h e r e

a r e l a r g e s p a c e s s o m e t h i n g l i k e o p e n c l o i s t e r s . N e xt to

t h e p l e a s u r e o f s e e i n g t h e T a j , i f n o t e v e n g r e a t e r , w a s

that I experienced in s eeing these child ren-Hindu ,

M o s l e m , a n d C h r i s t i a n-t u d y i n g P e r s i a n , A r a b i c , U r d u ,

a n d t h e s e f r o m t h e i r g r e a t l i t e r a t u r e s . I l i n g e r e d n e a r ,

a n d l i s t e n e d t o t h e i r m u s i c a l v o i c e s r e a d i n g t o t h e i r v e n e r -

a b l e t e a c h e r s S u r a s o f t h e K o r a n , s e n t e n c e s f r o m S a a d i ' s

" G u l i s t a n " and " B u s t a n , " t a l e s f r o m N i z a m i , v e r s e s f r o m

Hafiz. Several of the teachers w ith whom I conversed

wer e pleased w ith my interest in the Pers ian and Ara-

b i a n p o e t s , a n d s h o w e d m e t he b o o k s u s e d . At my

r e q u e s t s o m e c h i l d r e n w e r e s e l e c t e d w h o s a n g q u a t r a i n s

of Omar K hayyam . I p u r c h a s e d s o m e o f t h e s e w o r k s , a n d

i n t h e n e i g h b o u r h o o d b o u g h t q u e e r p i c t u r e - b o o k s o f H i n d u

mythology put forth by some fr eethinking caric aturis t .

O n t h e w h o l e , t h i s m o s q u e o f t h e l o w l y a n d l i b e r a l J e h a -

n a r a , w i t h i t s s c h o o l s , - p o s s i b l y f o l l o w i n g s i m i l a r o n e s

f o u n d e d b y h e r s e l f , - w h e r e c h i l d r e n a r e t a u g h t t h e r e a l

b e a u t i e s o f o r i e n t a l l i t e r a t u r e , -seems to me of equ al

b e a u t y i n o n e s e n s e w i t h t h e T a j . H e r e w a s t h e l a s t l a m p



KRISHNA'S DANCE 2 91

bu rning from the sacr ed tomb of Akb ar! I t s l i g h t

r e f l e c t e d a b e a u t i f u l l i g h t f r o m t h e T a j , t h e t o m b o f h e r

mother . To this again I repair ed to linger motionless

before i t until the night train s hould tear me away .

Through all the park doves w ere cooing, the flowers

b r e a t h i n g t h e i r p a s s i o n a t e p e r f u m e , w h i l e h e r e a n d t h e r e

man and mai d w ande re d in the deep fol i age ; a n d I

c a u g h t t h e t h e m e o f t h a t o l d , o l d m u s i c w h i c h h a s b u i l t,

the walls of many ci ties before and since Thebes, bu t

n e v e r b u i l t i n s t o n e a m o r e b e a u t i f u l m o n u m e n t t h a n t h e /

iTaj .

The Americ an poet Park Benjamin w rote a charming

" S o n g o f t h e S t r o m k e r l , " b a s e d o n t h e f o l l o w i n g q u o t a -

tion from Washington Irvi ng : -

1 1 T h e S w e d e s d e l i g h t t o t e l l o f t h e S t r o m k e r l , o r b o y

o f t h e s t r e a m , w h o h a u n t s t h e g l a s s y b r o o k s a n d s t e a l s

gently through green meadows, and sits on the sil ver

waves at moonlight, playing his harp to the elves who

d a n c e o n t h e f l o w e r y m a r g i n . " I t w o u l d b e a f a i r s u b j e c t

f o r a n y i n v e s t i g a t o r o f f o l k - l o r e t o s e a r c h o u t h o w f a r

has extended i n Eur ope this romance of the youthful

Kri shna and his dance, while his career as a renowned

and crafty warr ior has no di stinct representations in

t h e w e s t . The legend of Kri shna's dance with the cow-

m a i d e n s , e a c h b e l i e v i n g s h e b a d h i m f o r a p a r t n e r , b e a r s

a n o t a b l e r e s e m b l a n c e t o a s c e n e i n G e o r g e S a n d ' s m a r -

v e l l o u s n o v e l , " Les Maitres Sonneur s . " T h e f a s c i n a t i n g

y o u n g g e n i u s o f t h e m y s t e r i o u s B a n d s u d d e n l y a p p e a r s a t

a v i l l a g e f e t e , w i t h h i s e x q u i s i t e c o r n e t s e t s t h e m a l l t o

d a n c i n g , m a n a g e s t o d a n c e w i t h a l l t h e p r e t t i e s t , a n d v a n -

i s h e s i n t h e f o r e s t a t d a y b r e a k . G e o r g e S a n d ' s p i c t u r e i s

t o o r e a l i s t i c f o r o n e t o b e c e r t a i n o f a n y t h i n g m o r e t h a n

t h a t i f a n y s u c h r u s t i c p e r f o r m a n c e s u g g e s t e d t h e K r i s h n a



Q 9 Q MY PILGRIMAGE

dance-legend it must have been in an Indi a long ex-

t i n c t .

T h e r e i s a p o p u l a r P u r a n i c l e g e n d w h i c h h a s n o t y e t ,

I b e l i e v e , r e c e i v e d a t t e n t i o n f r o m t h e s t u d e n t s o f c o m -

parative mythology . In a dis cours e in London (whic h

w a s p r i n t e d ) r e l a t i n g t o t h e l e g e n d o f S t . A g n e s I t r a c e d

her steps through the Miracl e Plays to Lady G odiv a of

C o v e n t r y , b u t I h a d n o t t h e n c o n n e c t e d h e r w i t h t h e H i n d u

princess Draupadi . S t . Agnes, it w ill be remembered,

w a s a C h r i s t i a n c o n v e r t w h o r e f u s e d t h e s u i t o f a R o m a n

nobleman, sayi ng that she was b etrothed to a heavenly

l o v e r . The youth's f ather, Prefec t of Rome, unabl e to

bend her resolution, condemned her to publi c exposu re

and di shonour . Bu t when she was di vested of clothing,

the Prefect's son, as he approached her, w as stru ck

b l i n d , a n d w h e n s h e w a s l e d f o r t h h e r h a i r h a d m i r a c u -

l o u s l y g r o w n s o a s t o e n v e l o p h e r a s a g a r m e n t . A f t e r -

w a r d s , h o w e v e r , s h e p i t i e d h i m w h o h a d b e e n s t r u c k b l i n d ,

a n d h e r p r a y e r r e s t o r e d h i s s i g h t .

The beautiful Draupadi, wif e of the five Pandavas

pri nces, was taken captive by King Dur yodhan, who was

about to marry her . T h e l o y a l w i f e s c o r n f u l l y r e f u s e d ,

and the fierc e king ordered that she should b e cut to

p i e c e s , a n d f i r s t , h e s a i d , ' S t r i p h e r s o t h a t a l l m a y s e e

h e r ! " H i s o f f i c e r s e i z e d h e r b y t h e h a i r a n d b e g a n t o

s t r i p h e r . She prayed to Kri shna, who appeared b efore

h e r . When Dus hasan stri pped her he found another

d r e s s ; he strip ped her of that and found yet another ;

a n d t h u s b e w e n t o n u n t i l h e f o u n d a d r e s s w h i c h a d h e r e d

to the skin and could not be removed . These miracles

c o n v e r t e d h e r o p p r e s s o r s , a n d a l l w e n t w e l l .

In a convers ation I once had w ith Anthony Fr oud e

c o n c e r n i n g t h e r e s e m b l a n c e s b e t w e e n c e r t a i n n a r r a t i v e s



HEBREW AND INDIAN MYTHS 2 9 3

in the oriental books and those of the Bib le, he said

that a number of su ch coinci dences used to be talked

of among the students at Oxf ord w hen he was there,

a n d t h a t t h e y w e r e e x p l a i n e d b y a t h e o r y t h a t t h e r e h a d

been a div ine prepar ation of the ancient pagan race,

f o r t h e r e c e p t i o n o f t h e C h r i s t i a n r e v e l a t i o n . S i n c e t h a t

t i m e , h o w e v e r , t h e s t u d y o f C h r i s t i a n m y t h o l o g y h a s a t -

t a i n e d t h e p r o p o r t i o n s o f a s c i e n c e .

T h e o n l y s a t i s f a c t o r y m e t h o d o f d i s c r i m i n a t i n g b e t w e e n

a n a t u r a l c o i n c i d e n c e o f o n e m y t h w i t h a n o t h e r a n d t h o s e

t h a t c o u l d n o t h a v e h a d i n d e p e n d e n t o r i g i n i s , a s I t h i n k ,

the simple l iterary method . I t d o e s n o t f o l l o w b e c a u s e

s o m e o f t h e t h i n g s s a i d i n t h e B i b l e t o h a v e b e e n i m p o r t e d

by Solomon have Sansc ri t names that Solomon vis ited

I n d i a . T h e A m e r i c a n t u r k e y n e v e r c a m e f r o m T u r k e y , a n d

our Americ an Indians never came fr om India . B u t t h e

" J u d g m e n t o f S o l o m o n , " f o r i n s t a n c e , i s t r a c e a b l e t o a s

I n d i a n s o u r c e . I n t h e o r i e n t a l l e g e n d t h e w i s e j u d g e i s a

mai d en . F o r V i s a k h a , s o n o f t h e p r i m e m i n i s t e r o f K o s a l a ,

a b r i d e i s s o u g h t i n v a r i o u s r e g i o n s b y a B r a h m a n . Among

t h e m a n y m a i d e n s c o n v e r s e d w i t h o n e g a v e e v i d e n c e o f e x -

t r a o r d i n a r y w i s d o m . S h e w a s b r o u g h t t o K o s a l a w i t h g r e a t

p o m p , b u t b e f o r e b e i n g a s k e d f o r h e r h a n d s h e w a s e n t e r -

tained i n the palace in ord er that her wi sdom might be

t e s t e d . A m o n g t h e v a r i o u s t e s t s s h e w a s a s k e d t o d e c i d e

between two w omen claimi ng to be mother of the same

c h i l d . S h e s a i d : -

Speak to the two women thus : " As we d o not know

t o w h i c h o f y o u t h e b o y b e l o n g s , l e t h e r w h o i s t h e s t r o n g -

e s t t a k e t h e b o y ." When each of them has taken hold

of one of the boy's hands, and he begins to cry out on

a c c o u n t o f t h e p a i n , t h e r e a l m o t h e r w i l l l e t g o , b e i n g f u l l

o f c o m p a s s i o n f o r h i m , a n d k n o w i n g t h a t i f h e r c h i l d r e -

m a i n s a l i v e s h e w i l l b e a b l e t o s e e i t a g a i n ; b u t t h e o t h e r ,



294 MY PILGRIMAGE

who has no compassi on for him, wi ll not let go . T h e n

b e a t h e r w i t h a s w i t c h , a n d s h e w i l l t h e r e u p o n c o n f e s s

t h e t r u t h o f t h e w h o l e m a t t e r .

T h u s f a r o n e m i g h t s a y t h a t t h i s t a l e , f r o m t h e T i b e t a n

" Kah-Gyu r," might have been suggested by the story of

Solomon . B u t i n t h e B i b l i c a l t a l e t h e r e i s a m i s s i n g l i n k

why should the false mother, who bad so d esir ed the

c h i l d , c o n s e n t t o h a v e i t c u t i n t w o ?What motive coul d

she have? In the Ti betan tale one of the women is the

wif e, the other the concub ine, of a householder . T h e

w i f e b o r e h i m n o c h i l d , a n d w a s j e a l o u s o f t h e c o n c u b i n e

on acc ount of her babe . T h e c o n c u b i n e , f e e l i n g c e r t a i n

t h a t t h e w i f e w o u l d k i l l t h e c h i l d , g a v e i t t o h e r , w i t h h e r

l o r d ' s a p p r o v a l ; but after his d eath possessi on of the

h o u s e h a d t o f o l l o w m o t h e r h o o d o f t h e c h i l d . I f , h o w e v e r ,

t h e c h i l d w e r e d e a d , t h e f a l s e c l a i m a n t w o u l d b e m i s t r e s s

o f t h e h o u s e . H e r e , t h e n , i s a m o t i v e w a n t i n g i n t h e s t o r y

of Solomon, and s uggesting that the latter is not the

o r i g i n a l .

I n t h e a n c i e n t " ° M a h o s a d h a J a t a k a " t h e f a l s e c l a i m a n t

p r o v e s t o b e a Y a k s h i n i ( a s o r t o f v a m p i r e ) w h o w i s h e s

t o e a t t h e c h i l d . T o B u d d h a h i m s e l f i s h e r e a s c r i b e d t h e

ju dgment, whic h is much the same as that of the "wi se

C hampa mai d en," Vi s a kha . Here also is a motive for

a s s e n t i n g t o t h e c h i l d ' s d e a t h w h i c h i s l a c k i n g i n t h e B i b -

l i c a l s t o r y .

It may be mentioned as an interesting parallel that

the w i s e mai d en in the H i n d u tale bear s the same

name as the young man whose b ri de s he becomes -Vis akha, - and that the bri de in Solomon's Song of

Songs i s named Shulamith, -f eminine of Shelomoh,

Solomon .

A l l t h e H i n d u s I m e t i m p r e s s e d m e b y t h e i r p o l i t e n e s s



KRISHNA AND CHRIST 995

and tact. P e r h a p s t h e i r s u p e r i o r i t y t o t h e a v e r a g e m i s -

s i o n a r y i n m a n n e r s i s t h a t t h e H i n d u i s n o t a p r o p a g a n d i s t

o f h i s r e l i g i o n . H e i s n o t a d d i c t e d t o t h e r u d e n e s s o f t e l l -

i n g o t h e r s , " Y o u r r e l i g i o n i s a l l f a l s e , m i n e i s t r u e , a n d

y o u w i l l b e d a m n e d , a s y o u r a n c e s t o r s a r e , i f y o u d o n ' t

a g r e e w i t h m e . " I h a v e n o d o u b t t h a t t h e s e l e a r n e d B r a h -

mans, w ho know E nglish and are students of the Bible,

a r e c o n v i n c e d t h a t C h r i s t i a n i t y h a s d e r i v e d i d e a s f r o m

I n d i a , b u t i n n o i n s t a n c e h a v e I k n o w n a n y o n e o f t h e m t o

s u g g e s t t h i s u n l e s s t h e s u b j e c t w a s i n t r o d u c e d b y m y s e l f .

T h e y n o t o n l y a v o i d t r e a d i n g o n C h r i s t i a n t o e s , b u t e v e n

o n c o r n s .

I n r e c e n t t i m e s e d u c a t e d C h r i s t i a n w r i t e r s h a v e b e e n

i n c l i n e d t o f o l l o w P a u l ' s e x a m p l e o n M a r s H i l l , a n d q u o t e

t h e p o e t s o f a l i e n r e l i g i o n s , c l a i m i n g i n d e e d t h a t " P r o v i -

dence " h a s p r e p a r e d i n a l l r a c e s f u r r o w s f o r t h e g o s p e l

s e e d , t h e r e b e i n g o n l y o n e o r t w o c o i n c i d e n c e s t h a t e x c i t e

t h e i r f e a r . P r i n c i p a l a m o n g t h e s e i s t h e s i m i l a r i t y b e -

t w e e n t h e b i r t h - l e g e n d s o f K r i s h n a a n d C h r i s t . T h e q u e s -

t i o n o f p r e c e d e n c e i s t o o a c a d e m i c t o b e d e a l t w i t h h e r e ,

b u t a n e x a m i n a t i o n o f t h e o l d H i n d u p i c t u r e s l e a d s m e t o

t h e c o n c l u s i o n t h a t a t n o p e r i o d c o u l d t h e n a m e " C h r i s t "

o r h i s b i r t h - l e g e n d s h a v e b e e n a p p r o p r i a t e d f o r a n a m o -

r o u s d e i t y l i k e K r i s h n a . I n l a t e r t i m e s E u r o p e a n a n d H i n d u

a u t h o r s h a v e t r i e d t o g i v e m y s t i c a l i n t e r p r e t a t i o n t o t h e

l o v e r o m a n c e s o f K r i s h n a , j u s t a s t h e B i b l e t r a n s l a t o r s

h e a d e d t h e c h a p t e r s o f t h e " Song of Songs " with such

a b s u r d i t i e s , b u t i t s e e m s t h a t t h i s e i g h t h i n c a r n a t i o n o f

Vishnu ( Kri shna) represents a reaction of human natur e

a g a i n s t t h e e x t r e m e S i v a i t e a s c e t i c i s m . O ne may even

c o n j e c t u r e t h a t t h e B u d d h a l e g e n d w a s a s o r t o f S i v a i t e

p r o t e s t a g a i n s t s o m e f l u t e - p l a y i n g a n d E p i c u r e a n p h i l o s o -

p h e r , a n d t h a t t h e i r c o n f l i c t p a s s e d t h r o u g h t h e a g e s f r o m



2 96 MY PILGRIMAGE

t h e J u m n a t o t h e J o r d a n t o b e r e p r e s e n t e d i n a c h i l d i s h

rune-W e p i p e d u n t o y o u a n d y e d i d n o t d a n c e

W e w a i l e d , a n d y e d i d n o t b e a t t h e b r e a s t .

The well-known desc rip tion of the young Prince Sid-

d a r t h a ' s l a s t g r e a t f e t e i n h i s p a l a c e ; t h e " b e v y o f t h e m o s t

l o v e l y a n d f a s c i n a t i n g g i r l s s u r r o u n d i n g h i m , s t r i v i n g b y

d a n c i n g , m u s i c , a n d s o n g s t o a t t r a c t h i s t h o u g h t s t o p l e a -

s u r e ; " h i s r e g a r d i n g " h i s r o y a l p a l a c e , f u l l o f l o v e l y w o -

m e n , a s i f i t w e r e b u t a c e m e t e r y f u l l o f h o r r i d c o r p s e s ; "

h i s l e a v i n g t h i s s p l e n d o u r , a l s o h i s w i f e a n d c h i l d , t o b e c o m e

a m e n d i c a n t , -a l l t h e s e t r a d i t i o n s p i c t u r e t h e e a r t h l y a n d

present paradis e with which Kris hna and his beautiful

R a d h a h a v e b e e n f o r m a n y c e n t u r i e s -n d a r e t o t h i s d a y-s s o c i a t e d .

O f B u d d h a a n d C h r i s t a l i k e i t i s s a i d t h a t t h e y w e r e

ric h but became poor . A l i k e t h e y a r e o f r o y a l l i n e a g e .

K r i s h n a i s p r e d e s t i n e d t o a t h r o n e , w h i c h b e f i n a l l y a t t a i n s .

Born at Mathur a, on the ri ver J umna, between Agra and

D e l h i , K r i s h n a s p r i n g s f r o m t h e t r i b e o f Y u d a . A Krish-

n a i t e m i g h t q u o t e l i t e r a l l y H e b r e w s v i i , 1 4 : " I t i s c l e a r

beforehand that our Lord has spr ung out of Ju dah"

(Iouda) . H i s f a t h e r w a s V a s u d e f , h i s m o t h e r D e v a k i ( i . e .

Div ine Lady) . O n t h e n i g h t o f h i s b i r t h h i s u n c l e , K i n g

Kansa, bad b een warned b y a voi ce fr om heaven that the

eighth son of Devaki would slay him, and c onsequently

had every nephew ki lled when born . But Vasu def f l e d

w i t h t h e c h i l d a c r o s s t h e r i v e r a n d p l a c e d h i m w i t h t h e

shepherd N a n d a a n d h i s w i f e Yosada,-t h i s l a d y b e c o m -

ing famous as Kri shna's reputed mother . The tyrant

Kansa then ord ers a general mass acre of inf ants, but

K r i s h n a a n d h i s b r o t h e r , B a l a r a m a ( R a m a t h e s t r o n g ) a r e

s a v e d a n d t h e t w o a r e b r o u g h t u p b y Y o s a d a a s h e r o w n .



KRISHNA IN HINDU ART 297

The persecution by Kansa and his death by the hand of

K r i s h n a o r V a s u d e f a r e m e n t i o n e d i n P a n t a j a l i ' s " Gr eat

Commentary " ( s e c o n d c e n t u r y B . C . ) . T h e r e i s e v i d e n c e ,

t o o , t h a t t h e r e w a s t h e n a d r a m a t i c r e p r e s e n t a t i o n o f t h e

story,- as there is to-day . Bu t the Kansa legend has

l o n g b e e n e c l i p s e d i n p o p u l a r i n t e r e s t b y t h e s t o r i e s o f

the chil dhood and youth of Kris hna in the shepherd' s

home .

Among the popul ar colou red pr ints r epresenting the

c o n v e n t i o n a l i z e d s t o r y o f K r i s h n a , w h i c h I b r o u g h t h o m e

wi th me, two are of especial i nterest and beauty . O ne

represents the fair f oster-mother Yosada holding some

l i t t l e f r u i t o r s u g a r - p l u m i n h e r h a n d f o r t h e b e a u t i f u l

dark blu e babe whic h in moving on the floor, on hands

a n d k n e e s , t u r n s h i s f a c e t o h e r a n d l i f t s h i s r i g h t h a n d .

T h e y a r e i n a f i n e h a l l w i t h p i l l a r s a n d a r c h e s ; s h e i s

elegantly draped, i n dark r ed cloak and hood, arms and

f e e t j e w e l l e d , b u t n o n o s e - r i n g : the child is naked but

covered with jewels, - one heart-s haped pendant on his

b r e a s t , a n o t h e r a b o v e h i s f o r e h e a d , a c i r c l e a b o v e w h i c h

r i s e t h r e e f e a t h e r s f o r m i n g a s o r t o f c r o s s . A vague halo

sur rounds the head . S t i l l m o r e s t r i k i n g i s t h e o t h e r p i c -

t u r e . Yosad a comes out of a fine arched doorw ay to a

v e r a n d a f o l l o w i n g b l u e K r i s h n a , a b o y o f t e n y e a r s , w i t h

her hands on his shoulders , where they are met by his

b r o t h e r B a l a r a m a , o f t h e s a m e s i z e , w h o l e a n s f o r w a r d t o

k i s s h i m . T h i s b r o t h e r i s w h i t e , a n d b e a r s a s t a f f . Out-

s i d e i s a f l o c k o f s h e e p w a t c h e d b y t h e s h e p h e r d , w h o h a s

a l o n g w h i t e b e a r d a n d a c r o o k i n h i s h a n d . T h e r e i s t h e

same dis parity of age between Nanda and Yosada that is

n o t i c e a b l e i n p i c t u r e s o f J o s e p h a n d M a r y . Yos ada and

b o t h c h i l d r e n a r e r i c h l y d r e s s e d a n d a d o r n e d w i t h p e a r l s ,

e a c h h a v i n g o n e o n t h e u p p e r l i p . I f i n d i t i m p o s s i b l e t o



2 9 8 MY PILGRIMAGE

l o o k a t t h i s p i c t u r e w i t h o u t f e e l i n g t h a t i t i s r e l a t e d t o t h e

Catholic pictur e of the Holy Family and St . John the

B a p t i s t , a l t h o u g h t h e r e i s h e r e n o h a l o .

T h e r e a r e m a n y t h e o r i e s a b o u t t h e d a r k b l u e c o l o u r o f

Krishna . The name means "bl ack . " P o s s i b l y i t w a s o r i -

ginally meant to show that he was s pru ng from the dark

a b o r i g i n e s ( n o n - A r y a n ) a n d t h e b l u e t i n t g i v e n l a t e r w h e n

he was decl ared an avatar of Vis hnu, whose throat was

b l u e .

" K r i s h n a t e a c h i n g R a d h a t o p l a y t h e f l u t e " i s a f a v o u r -

i t e s u b j e c t o f H i n d u a r t . The merry youth possessed the

magic flu te, and no cowherdess could resist i ts charm .

Accordi ng to Eus ebiu s the original Prodigal Son had

in the far country devoured his s ub stance wi th "flute-

w o m e n. "

T h e e a r l y C h r i s t i a n s d e s t r o y e d , u t t e r l y , m o r e t h a n a

h u n d r e d g o s p e l s a n d e p i s t l e s n o w k n o w n t o h a v e e x i s t e d ,

among them three by St . T h o m a s , t r a d i t i o n a l l y t h e a p o s -

t l e t o I n d i a . W e a r e l e f t , t h e n , t o c o n j e c t u r e w h a t s c a n -

d a l s t o a s c e t i c s l i k e J o h n t h e B a p t i s t a n d h i s d i s c i p l e s ,

w h o f a s t e d w h i l e J e s u s f a s t e d n o t , l e d t o t h e r e p u t a t i o n

o f h i s b e i n g "a g l u t t o n a n d a w i n e - d r i n k e r , a f r i e n d o f

b a n k e r s a n d s i n n e r s , " a l s o t o t h e n a r r a t i v e s o f w o r l d l i n e s s

and fi ne entertainments in Egyptian palaces of J oseph,

M a r y , a n d t h e c h i l d , r e l a t e d i n t h e A r a b i c G o s p e l .

It must be always b orne in mind that with Bud dhism

a r o s e t h e f i r s t m i s s i o n a r y r e l i g i o n ; t h e i r p r o p a g a n d i s t s w e n t

t h r o u g h t h e n a t i o n s , l i k e t h e F r a n c i s c a n s o f l a t e r t i m e s , a n d

i n c i t i e s w h e r e t h e i r l a n g u a g e w a s p o p u l a r l y u n k n o w n t h e y

must d epend on scenery and pantomime . T h e r e a r e e v i -

d e n c e s o f B u d d h i s t m i s s i o n s i n P a l e s t i n e a n d A r a b i a , a n d

t h e s c e n e s o f g a i e t y a n d l i c e n t i o u s n e s s a s s o c i a t e d w i t h

K r i s h n a a n d h i s f l u t e a n d d a n c i n g g i r l s b e s i d e t h e J u m n a



LEGEND OF ST. GIOSAFAT 2 9 9

would naturall y be the back ground of the Prince Budd ha

t u r n i n g h i s b a c k o n a l l w o r l d l y r e v e l r i e s .

The beautifu l statue of St . G i o s a f a t i n t h e a n c i e n t

c h u r c h b e a r i n g h i s n a m e a t P a l e r m o i s o n e o f t h e m o s t i n -

t e r e s t i n g i n E u r o p e . John of D amascus (born A . D . 6 7 6 )

came into contact there wi th the story of a pri nce who

prepared two b oxes, one of gold the other of some base

sub stance, b etween which his nobles were su mmoned to

m a k e t h e i r c h o i c e ; t h e y a l l c h o s e t h e g o l d b o x w h i c h w a s

f o u n d f u l l o f d e a d b o n e s , w h i l e t h e o t h e r w a s f o u n d t o c o n -

t a i n r a r e s t g e m s . T h e p r i n c e t h e n r e b u k e d h i s n o b l e s f o r

j u d g i n g b y t h e s e n s e s . T h i s p r i n c e , a s i s n o w k n o w n , w a s

n o o t h e r t h a n B u d d h a , b u t o n t h e r e p r e s e n t a t i o n s o f J o h n

o f D a m a s c u s a t R o m e h e w a s d e c l a r e d a s a i n t a n d r e c o g -

n i z e d a s s u c h b y a s u c c e s s i o n o f P o p e s f r o m S i x t u s V t o

the present day, -N ovember 27 i n the Calendar being

s o l e m n l y s e t a p a r t f o r h i s c o m m e m o r a t i o n . T h i s b e a u t i f u l

e x a m p l e o f t h e c o n t i n u i t y o f r e l i g i o u s h i s t o r y i s f i t l y e n -

s h r i n e d i n t h e b e a u t i f u l s t a t u e . The cr own and the nimbus

r i s e a b o v e a f a c e , i n w h i c h m a n l i n e s s a n d w o m a n l i n e s s a r e

c o m b i n e d , t u r n e d t o t h e c r u c i f i x u p h e l d i n t h e r i g h t b a n d ,

t h e l e f t b e i n g f o l d e d a r o u n d a l a r g e v o l u m e .

I w a s i n t e r e s t e d t o f i n d a l l t h e y o u n g p e o p l e i n I n d i a a n d

in Ceylon speaking of the Brahmans as the 1 1 C a t h o l i c s . "

I as ked sever al of them bow they managed to get that

t e r m f o r t h e o r i g i n a l r e l i g i o n o f t h e i r c o u n t r y , a n d t h e y

c o u l d n o t t e l l m e a n y t h i n g e x c e p t t h a t i t w a s i n h e r i t e d

fr om time immemorial . I n l o o k i n g a t t h e f a v o u r i t e h o u s e -

h o l d p i c t u r e s o f B r a h m a n i s m , I f e e l c e r t a i n t h a t t h e i r s o -

c a l l e d I I g o d d e s s e s " a r e s i m p l y a s i s t e r h o o d o f s y m b o l i c a l

f i g u r e s . There is a goddess of music (Benapani), who

h o l d s a l o n g , u n i f o r m l y n a r r o w s t r i n g e d i n s t r u m e n t w h i c h

r i s e s u p a b o v e h e r s o l a r h a l o ; s h e i s s e a t e d o n a t h r o n e o f



3 0 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

u n o p e n e d w h i t e l i l i e s o v e r a l a k e , h e r f o o t s t o o l b e i n g a

r e d - l e a v e d l o t u s . S h e i s a s i s t e r , n o d o u b t , o f R a d h a , l e a r n -

i n g t o p l a y t h e f l u t e f r o m h e r b e l o v e d K r i s h n a . And both

a r e g l o r i f i e d i n t h e s u p r e m e g o d d e s s L a k s h m i , t h e g o d d e s s

o f P r o s p e r i t y . The beautifu l fac e of Lakshmi and her

s u p e r b j e w e l l e d c r o w n s u r m o u n t e d b y t h e P h a l l i c e m b l e m

i s b a l o e d b y t h e s u n ; h e r r i g h t h a n d h o l d s a l a r g e g o l d e n

v a s e w i t h t u r r e t e d c o v e r ; t h e a f f l u e n c e o f e a r t h a n d s e a

s u r r o u n d s h e r , -a l l v a r i e t i e s o f s h e l l s a n d l o t u s e s , a n d b e -

y o n d h e r a f i e l d o f g o l d e n w h e a t . B u t t h e r e a r e t w o s y m -

bols that set one dreaming of her ki nswomen in other

l a n d s : p r o m i n e n t b e s i d e h e r i s a l a r g e o w l , w h i c h t e l l s o f

the Wis dom that cr owned Prosperi ty in Athens ; a n d a t

L a k s h m i ' s b r e a s t i s c l a s p e d a s h e a f o f w h e a t w h i c h w i l l

r e a p p e a r i n t h e i m a g e o f C e r e s a t R o m e .

T h e o w l i s u n i v e r s a l l y a b i r d o f i l l o m e n . Fr om it came

t h e f a t a l l y f a s c i n a t i n g L i l i t h , w h o s e n a m e i s f o o l i s h l y

s u p p r e s s e d u n d e r t h e n a m e s c r e e c h - o w l i n t h e o l d v e r s i o n

o f I s a i a h x x x i v , 1 4 : " L i l i t h s h a l l a b i d e t h e r e a n d f i n d

h e r a p l a c e o f r e s t . " L i l i t h , i n J e w i s h t r a d i t i o n A d a m ' s

f i r s t w i f e , w o u l d m o r e n e a r l y r e s e m b l e R a d h a . T h e o w l o f

Lakshmi is always w hite, its uncanny reputation being

t h u s p e r h a p s s o f t e n e d i n t o t h a t o f a w h i t e w i t c h . I t s g r e a t

e y e s , u n w i n k i n g , a b l e t o s e e i n t o a n d t h r o u g h t h e d a r k n e s s ,

made it the symbol of Fortune and of Wisd om so long

a s P a r a d i s e w a s c o n c e i v e d a s o n e a r t h ; w h e n I n d r a ' s P a r -

a d i s e w a s s u p e r s e d e d b y a P a r a d i s e i n t h e s k y t h e o w l w a s

s u p e r s e d e d b y t h e c a r r i e r p i g e o n , w h i c h o n E g y p t i a n m o n -

u m e n t s t h e p r i e s t s a r e s e e n s e n d i n g o f f t o b e a r t h e s e c r e t s

o f e a r t h t o t h e g o d s .

A t e v e r y m o m e n t i n I n d i a I b a d t o l a m e n t t h e n a r r o w -

ness of our English and American theologians and pro-

f e s s o r s w h o , i n t h e i r g r a t u i t o u s j e a l o u s y f o r t h e o r i g i n a l i t y



ORIGIN OF WESTERN FOLK-LORE 301

o f e v e r y t h i n g i n t h e B i b l e , i m p l a n t e d e v e n i n t h e m o s t

l i b e r a l o f u s t h e i r p u p i l s a n o t i o n t h a t t h e r e w a s a t a n d

b e f o r e t h e b e g i n n i n g o f o u r e r a a g r e a t g u l f f i x e d b e t w e e n

t h e " Hol y Land " a n d I n d i a , s o t h a t n o t h i n g c o u l d h a v e

b e e n p o s s i b l y d e r i v e d t h e r e f r o m b y C h r i s t i a n i t y . That

e r r o r i s n o w e x p l o d e d , e v e n i n P r o t e s t a n t c o u n t r i e s , -

f o r t h e G r e e k a n d R o m a n c h u r c h e s m u s t b e c r e d i t e d w i t h

h a v i n g f o r t h e m o s t p a r t i g n o r e d t h i s e r r o r . I n f a c t ,

n e a r l y a l l o f o u r E u r o p e a n a n d A m e r i c a n f o l k - l o r e i s t h e

d e b r i s o f A s i a t i c u s a g e a n d s u p e r s t i t i o n , s u c h a s b l e s s i n g

p e o p l e w h e n t h e y s n e e z e ; t h e i n d i c a t i o n b y a b u r n i n g

e a r o r c h e e k t h a t s o m e b o d y i s t a l k i n g a b o u t y o u ; t h e

s y m b o l i s m o f t h e s t o r k ; t h e d o g h o w l i n g a t n i g h t a s a

p r e s a g e o f d e a t h ; a n d t h e h o r s e s h o e a s p r o t e c t i o n a g a i n s t

s o r c e r y .

T h e C o v e n a n t o f S a l t i n t h e E a s t , w h i c h i n E u r o p e s i m p l y

r e p r e s e n t s a n i d l e n o t i o n t h a t t o s p i l l s a l t i n o f f e r i n g i t

b o d e s a q u a r r e l , p o s s e s s e s a m e a n i n g t r a c e a b l e t o t h e t i m e

w h e n m e n c a r r i e d w i t h t h e m o n t h e i r j o u r n e y s a l l s u p p l i e s

e x c e p t a f e w v e r y c h e a p t h i n g s . Every man was supposed

t o b e " w o r t h h i s s a l t , " w h i c h t h u s b e c a m e a s y m b o l o f

u n i v e r s a l b r o t h e r h o o d . I f a m a n w e r e a s e c r e t e n e m y h e

m u s t m a n a g e t o s p i l l t h e s a l t w h i c h a s u s p i c i o u s s t r a n g e r

might d emand . I n I n d i a i t i s u s u a l f o r e v e r y c h i l d t o

b e g i n a b i r t h d a y b y t a k i n g a l i t t l e s a l t .

I t i s a s u f f i c i e n t e v i d e n c e t h a t t h e b o o k o f J o b i s

a d a p t e d f r o m a n A s i a t i c o r i g i n a l t h a t i n t h e W e s t o n e o f

i t s m o s t s i g n i f i c a n t s e n t e n c e s ( i , 2 2 ) h a s b e e n t r a n s l a t e d ,

" I n a l l t h i s J o b s i n n e d n o t , n o r c h a r g e d G o d f o o l i s h l y ; "

t h e r e a l t r a n s l a t i o n b e i n g , " I n a l l t h i s J o b s i n n e d n o t ,

n o r o f f e r e d h i s s a c r i f i c e w i t h o u t s a l t . " J o b f u l f i l l e d h i s

p a r t o f t h e c o v e n a n t w i t h o u t f a l t e r i n g .



C H APT E R X I V

Allahabad -Manways h f e s t i v a l -Ganges immersions - A C h r i s t i a n -

Brahman debate -R e l i c o f c o b r a - w o r s h i p -R i v e r d e i t i e s -C h r i s t i a n

a n d B r a h m a n d o c t r i n e s o f s a c r i f i c e .

IW A S s o r r y n o t t o f i n d S i r A l f r e d L y a l l a t A l l a h a b a d ,

b u t t w o g e n t l e m e n i n t h e C l u b t r e a t e d m e p o l i t e l y a n d

s e c u r e d f o r m e a g o o d g u i d e f o r t h e g r e a t a n n u a l f e s t i v a l

c a l l e d M a n w a y s h - t h a t i s , t h e J u n c t i o n o f t h e W a t e r s .

I t i s h e r e t h a t t h e G a n g e s a n d t h e J u m n a m e e t ; a n d t o

t h e e y e s o f f a i t h t h e r e i s a t h i r d r i v e r , t h e S a r a s w a t i ,

w h i c h u n i t e s w i t h t h e m . T h e t h r e e f o r m t h e m o s t s a c r e d

o f t h e s e v e n s t r e a m s t h a t f a l l f r o m t h e r i g h t f o o t o f

V i s h n u , a c c o r d i n g t o t h e V i s h n u i t e s - f r o m t h e b r o w o f

S i v a a c c o r d i n g t o t h e S i v a i t e s . I n s i d e t h e f o r t a t A l l a -

h a b a d a r e t h e r e m a i n s o f a s u b t e r r a n e a n t e m p l e i n w h i c h

i s a s a c r e d f o u n t a i n b e l i e v e d t o b e f e d b y t h e w a t e r s o f

S a r a s w a t i . I was r eminded of Colerid ge's "Alph"-

Where Alph, the sacred r iver, ran,

Through caverns measur eless to man,

Down to a sunless sea .

H e r e t o o a f o u n t a i n " flu ng up momently the sacred

r i v e r ;" and arou nd it w as a strange collection-the

B l e e d i n g T r e e , a n u p r i g h t l o g a t w h o s e b a s e a r e t w o f o o t -

p r i n t s o f V i s h n u ; a p h a l l i a l i n g a s a i d t o h a v e b e e n c u t

through at a blow b y the Moslem Aur ungzoo, whereon

f r o m o n e s i d e f l o w e d m i l k , f r o m t h e o t h e r b l o o d ; f o o t -

p r i n t s o f R a m a a n d o f h i s w i f e S i t a ; and many r emark -

a b l e i m a g e s o f K r i s h n a , o n e o r t w o o f w h i c h a p p e a r e d t o

m e i n c l i n i n g t o b e B u d d h a s . E m e r g i n g f r o m t h i s s u b t e r -



ALLAHABAD 3 03

r a n e a n h i d i n g - p l a c e o f i m a g e s s u f f i c i e n t l y r u d e t o s e e k

concealment, my eyes were gr eeted by the sight of a

s u p e r b P i l l a r o f A s o k a , w i t h i t s m o r a l l a w s i n g o o d p r e -

s e r v a t i o n , f i n e l y p e d e s t a l l e d a n d s u r r o u n d e d b y a p a r t e r r e

o f f l o w e r s t e n d e d b y E n g l i s h b a n d s .

I t i s t h r e e m i l e s f r o m t h e f o r t t o t h e j u n c t i o n o f t h e

r i v e r s , b u t i t w a s n e c e s s a r y t o l e a v e t h e r e m y c a r r i a g e , a n d

move on foot through the dense c row d . I t w a s e s t i m a t e d

t h a t t w o m i l l i o n s w e r e p r e s e n t d u r i n g t h e t w o d a y s ' f e s -

t i v a l . A s t h e s e p e o p l e w e r e t o m y e y e a l l a l i k e , t h e m e n

m o s t l y n a k e d , I b a d t o p i n a b i t o f r e d o n t h e h e a d - d r e s s

o f m y g u i d e i n o r d e r t o f o l l o w h i m a s h e p r e s s e d o n r a p -

i d l y , s h o v i n g p e o p l e a s i d e . As we d rew near to the pro-

montory between the ri vers the bazars multipli ed, and

m a n y b a n n e r s f l o a t e d t h r o u g h t h e a i r , p i c t u r e d w i t h a l l

m a n n e r o f t o t e m s , n o n d e s c r i p t s , a n d s y m b o l s . O n o n e s i d e

w a s a n a c r e o f g r o u n d , w h e r e a l a r g e p o p u l a t i o n , s q u a t t e d

o n t h e g r o u n d , w e r e h a v i n g t h e i r h e a d s s h o r n b y b a r b e r s .

T h e g r o u n d w a s c a r p e t e d w i t h b l a c k h a i r , e v e r y h a i r s a c -

rif iced meaning an added year in Paradi se . No w oman,

h o w e v e r , w a s s a c r i f i c i n g h e r g l o r y i n t h i s w a y , n o r d i d t h e

w o m e n i m i t a t e t h e z e a l o f m a n y m a l e p i l g r i m s , w h o c o v -

e r e d t h e m s e l v e s w i t h m u d b e f o r e p l u n g i n g i n t o t h e w a t -

e r s . A p r i e s t s t a n d i n g i n t h e w a t e r r e c e i v e d e a c h m u d d y

p i l g r i m a n d b e s o u g h t t h e r i v e r d e i t i e s t o p u r g e h i m o f s i n

e v e n a s t h e w a t e r s w a s h e d t h e m u d f r o m h i s b o d y .

T h e r i v e r s a r e s h a l l o w a t t h e i r j u n c t i o n , a n d a c o n t i n u -

ou s p r o ce s s i on wa s w a d i ng f r om bank to bank . T h e

b a n k s f a r a n d n e a r w e r e b l a c k w i t h t h e s w a r m o f p e o p l e .

There were li nes of barges moving to and f ro, and an

is land made of bamboo boats, from which Hindu s were

l e a p i n g e v e r y s e c o n d . I w as soon on a barge, observi ng

t h e e c s t a s i e s o f t h e m u l t i t u d e , a n d t h e i r l o u d i n v o c a t i o n s



3 0 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

when immersed . T h e m e n w o r e o n l y t h e r e g u l a t i o n l o i n -

c l o t h . The women on the bank passed in fr ank nudity

fr om their cl othes to transpar ent bathing wrapp ers .

T h e r e w a s n o s i g n o f c o n s c i o u s o r r e c o g n i z e d i n d e c o r u m ,

bu t on the other hand no solemnity,-all were merry .

A l a r g e p o r t i o n o f t h e p l a i n h a d t h e a p p e a r a n c e o f a

p l e a s u r e f a i r . I t w a s a k i n d o f c o m b i n a t i o n o f N i j n i - N o v -

gorod and many Methodist c ampmeetings . T h e r e w e r e

l i t t l e e x t e m p o r i z e d v i l l a g e s ( o f s h a n t i e s ) i n t e r s e c t e d b y

s m a l l p a t h w a y s , a n d t e n t s w i t h t h e i r s h r i n e s ; t h e r e w e r e

i n n u m e r a b l e f a k i r s c o v e r e d w i t h a s h e s , t h e i r f o r e h e a d s

f r e s c o e d w i t h s y m b o l s , r e c e i v i n g w o r s h i p a n d c o p p e r s . In

o n e e n c l o s u r e , t o w h i c h m y g u i d e t o o k m e a c c i d e n t a l l y ,

s o m e p e r s o n i n a u t h o r i t y w a r n e d u s o f f . My guid e moved

away rapid ly, but gave me no explanation . I t may not

h a v e b e e n a r e l i g i o u s p e r f o r m a n c e a t a l l .

T h e r e w e r e m a n y l o w , b r o a d t a b l e s a b o u t t h e g r o u n d s ,

w h i c h d i d s e r v i c e a s c h a i r s a l s o , s u p p o r t i n g t h e f r u i t s ,

g r a i n , a n d s u g a r c a k e s s o l d a s r e f r e s h m e n t f o r b o t h m a n

and gods . T h e r e w e r e l i t t l e b u r n t o f f e r i n g s f o r a n c e s t o r s

a l w a y s g o i n g o n . Priests were perf orming some kind of

cer emony over d evotees who bent their heads to the

ground ; the priest covered the low bent head w ith his

s k i r t , m u t t e r e d p r a y e r o r f o r m u l a w i t h o p e n e y e s , r e c e i v e d

h i s c o p p e r s o r c o w r i e s , a n d m o v e d o n t o t h e n e x t . A t v a -

r i o u s p o i n t s b o y s r a n g s m a l l b e l l s , a p p a r e n t l y t o a t t r a c t

t h e p e o p l e t o s o m e p r i e s t r e a d y t o d o s o m e t h i n g f o r t h e m .

L a r g e n u m b e r s o f s a c r e d c o w s w e r e l e d a b o u t , d e c o r a t e d

w i t h m y s t i c a l s y m b o l s a n d c h a i n s o f c o i n s o r i m i t a t i o n s o f

t h e m , b e s i d e s r i b a n d s a b o u t t h e i r h o r n s . Those who led

t h e l i t t l e s l a t e - c o l o u r e d a n i m a l s e x p e c t e d p i c e , w h i c h w e r e

g i v e n , h o w e v e r , c h i e f l y t o t h o s e w h o s e c o w s e x h i b i t e d s o m e

d e f o r m i t y . The number of these was large enough to be



MANWAYSH FESTIVAL 3 0 5

z o o l o g i c a l l y i n t e r e s t i n g . T h e m o n s t r o s i t i e s c o n s i s t e d o f

l i t t l e l e g s o r t a i l s c o m i n g o u t o f t h e a n i m a l ' s f o r e h e a d ,

shoulder, or rump . These exc resc ences were handled

f r e e l y , s e v e r a l o f t h e m b y m y s e l f . G o e t h e s a y s , ° ° N a t u r e

r e v e a l s h e r s e c r e t s i n m o n s t e r s , " b u t t h e H i n d u n o t i o n i s

t h a t t h e s e c r e t o f s o m e g o d o r d e m o n i s c o n t a i n e d i n

e a c h m o n s t r o s i t y . It must be on this pri ncip le they

p l a c a t e t h e i r f i e r c e p e r s e c u t o r G e n e r a l N i c h o l s o n , w h o f e l l

i n t h e s i e g e o f D e l h i ; and elsewhere an Englis hman is

worshipped who killed his w ife and drank himself to

d e a t h .

A c e r t a i n r e v e r e n c e s e e m e d t o b e p a i d t o h u m a n i n f i r m -

i t i e s , s o m e o f t h e s e b e i n g f r i g h t f u l e n o u g h . T h e s u f f e r e r s

d i s p l a y e d t h e i r " l o s s e s " a s p r o u d l y a s D o g b e r r y . Amazing

was a f e m a l e y o g i , q u i t e n a k e d , w r i t h i n g o n t h e g r o u n d

a n d f i l l i n g t h e a i r w i t h h e r r a v i n g s . S h e w a s s a i d t o b e

° ' p o s s e s s e d , " a n d r e c e i v e d p i c e t h e r e f o r . Not far from

t h i s w a s a t e n t i n w h i c h a N a u t c h d a n c e r w a s p e r f o r m i n g

i n p a n t o m i m e s o m e d i v i n e f a b l e .

I o b s e r v e d a t v a r i o u s p o i n t s t w o s m a l l b o y s w i t h p a i n t e d

f a c e s a n d d e c o r a t e d p a s t e b o a r d h a t s , e a c h h o l d i n g a b o w

a n d a r r o w . T h e y w e r e m o t i o n l e s s , a n d I c o u l d n o t u n d e r -

s t a n d t h e m e a n i n g o f t h i s r e c u r r i n g w a y s i d e t a b l e a u , b u t

s u s p e c t t h a t i t i s t h e l a s t d i m i n u t i v e o u t c o m e o f A r j u n a

and Abhimonzu, -the boy warri or now pi ctur ed as the

1 1 boy hermit ." At another point a man was telli ng a

g a p i n g c i r c l e s o m e t h i n g m y s t e r i o u s a b o u t a v e i l e d w o m a n

w h o s a t n e a r h i m .

The most pathetic si ght was that of a London mis-

s i o n a r y i n h i s t e n t c o n t e n d i n g s i n g l e - h a n d e d a g a i n s t a

c i r c l e o f a c u t e B r a h m a n s . T h e r e w a s a l a r g e c r o w d a r o u n d

t h e d i s p u t a n t s . T h e h e a t a l o n e w a s e n o u g h t o h a n d i c a p

the Englis hman ; b u t , a p a r t f r o m t h a t , h i s t a s k w a s s u f -



3 06 MY PILGRIMAGE

f i c i e n t t o c a u s e p e r s p i r a t i o n . I w a s c a r e f u l t o s e c u r e a

t r a n s l a t i o n o f e v e r y w o r d a s i t w a s u t t e r e d o n e i t h e r s i d e .

A s I e n t e r e d , t h e B r a h m a n w a s s a y i n g , " You say we must

h a v e f a i t h ; w e l l , w e h a v e f a i t h ." Missi onary : " But you

m u s t h a v e t h e r i g h t f a i t h ." "Our f aith seems to us as

r i g h t a s y o u r f a i t h s e e m s t o y o u . " " But you have faith

i n s u c h t h i n g s a s t h e w a t e r o f t h e G a n g e s ." "But if it

i s a s y o u s a y , -we are saved by faith, -why should

we not be saved by faith in the holy Ganges?" " How

can the Ganges wash away your si ns? " The water of

the Ganges w ashed away my si ns this morning . " " How

d o y o u k n o w t h a t i t h a s w a s h e d a w a y y o u r s i n s ? " " Howdo you know that the blood of Chri st has washed away

y o u r s i n s ? " " I k n o w i t b y t h e g r a c e o f G o d i n m y h e a r t . "

"And I, " said the Brahman, "know it by the grace of

God in my heart ." A freethinking Babu remarked to me,

" T h a t m i s s i o n a r y , i f h e o n l y k n e w i t , i s c a r r y i n g c o a l s t o

Newcastle ." I could not help smiling that our proverb

s h o u l d h a v e t r a v e l l e d s o f a r .

On the second day of the festival I saw and heard a

c l e v e r m i s s i o n a r y , w h o r e a l i z e d t h a t h e h a d i n h i s a u d i -

e n c e t w o p a r t i e s , - o n e f r o m t h e P u n j a b w h o d i f f e r e d o n

some pet dogma from more southern Hi ndus . The mis-

s i o n a r y w a s s i m i l a r l y h a r d p r e s s e d b y h i s B r a h m a n a d v e r -

s a r y , -a f i n e - l o o k i n g a n d a b l e m a n , -b u t he managed

d e x t e r o u s l y t o s h i f t t h e c o n t r o v e r s y r o u n d t o t h e p o i n t o f

d i f f e r e n c e r e f e r r e d t o . T h e P u n j a b m e n s o o n r o s e a g a i n s t

t h e B r a h m a n s , a n d t h e m i s s i o n a r y h a d t h e s a t i s f a c t i o n o f

s i t t i n g f o r a q u a r t e r o f a n h o u r c o m p l a c e n t l y w i p i n g h i s

brow w hile the Hindus dis puted with animation . Their

v o i c e s w e r e n o t v e r y l o u d , b u t t h e i r f e e l i n g s e e m e d i n -

t e n s e . One of them gesticu lated in a strange way, and

i l l u s t r a t e d s o m e p o i n t , w h i c h m y i n t e r p r e t e r d i d n o t q u i t e



STRANGE SIGHTS 307

c a t c h , b y t a k i n g o f f h i s s l i p p e r , t r e a d i n g o n i t , t h e n p u t -

t i n g i t o n a g a i n .

I had obser ved that a good many pilgri ms came from

a d i r e c t i o n i n w h i c h I h a d b e e n t o l d b y a H i n d u s c h o l a r

t h a t t h e r e w a s s o m e t h i n g p e c u l i a r t o b e s e e n . I d e v o t e d

an afternoon to an exploration, and fou nd mysel f amid

s c e n e s s o u n u s u a l t h a t I f e l t a s i f I m u s t h a v e s l e p t a w a y

a c e n t u r y o r t w o b a c k w a r d a n d w a k e d u p i n a r e m o t e p a s t .

At last I appr oached a vill age whose name was gi ven

me as Dab arwanga, -f i v e m i l e s p e r h a p s f r o m A l l a h a b a d .

Near it I c ame to a crowd ed common, where I got out of

my carriage and walked . Presently I came upon a human

bead l yi ng in my path on the ground . S t a r t i n g b a c k , I

p e r c e i v e d t h a t t h i s p a i n t e d h e a d , t h o u g h i t s e y e s w e r e

closed , belonged to a liv ing man, the rest of his b ody

b e i n g b u r i e d . A s m a l l t e n t h a d b e e n r a i s e d o v e r a n o t h e r

head farther on to shade it fr om the su n . S c e n e s l i k e

t h e s e b e g a n t o m u l t i p l y . I c a m e u p o n s e v e r a l n a k e d b o d i e s ,

a p p a r e n t l y d e c a p i t a t e d , t h e i r h e a d s a l o n e b e i n g b u r i e d

and the gravel smoothed flat over them . There were a

n u m b e r o f c h i l d r e n i n t h i s s i t u a t i o n , s t r e t c h i n g o u t t h e i r

h a n d s f o r g i f t s . S o l i t t l e r e s p e c t , h o w e v e r , d i d t h e i r c o m -

p a n i o n s f e e l f o r t h e s e i n f a n t d e v o t e e s t h a t t h e y s o m e t i m e s

p u t b i t s o f t i n o r f l i n t i n t h e i r h a n d s , w h i c h w e r e p r o m p t l y

thrown away . At one point a yo ung woman wa s j u s t

b u r y i n g a c h i l d u p t o t h e n e c k . S h e i n d i c a t e d t o m e h e r

e x p e c t a t i o n o f p i c e , w h i c h , o f c o u r s e , s h e d i d n o t g e t .

As I w alked on, men and women seemed to be fr antic

i n t h e s a m e d e g r e e t h a t I h a d w i t n e s s e d a t t h e t e m p l e o f

K a l i a t K a l i g h a t . T h e y w e r e a l l p r e s s i n g t o a s m a l l a n d

ancient temple . Thither I f ollowed . Approachi ng the

altar I beheld there one image alone- huge five-

h e a d e d c a r v e d c o b r a , b l a c k e n e d b y t i m e . A crowd, mainly



308 MY PILGRIMAGE

o f w o m e n , w e r e p r o s t r a t e b e f o r e t h i s w e i r d f o r m . I t w a s

t h e f i r s t t i m e I h a d s e e n s e r p e n t - w o r s h i p , p u r e a n d s i m p l e .

T h e r e w a s a h o r r i b l e s p l a s h o f b l o o d o n t h e p a v e m e n t i n

f r o n t o f t h e e n t r a n c e . What poor animal it was that had

t h e r e s h e d i t s b l o o d a s a n o f f e r i n g t o t h e O l d S e r p e n t I

knew not ; b u t I f e l t t h a t t h e r e f e a r h a d p a r a l y z e d p i t y ,

a n d r e a s o n s u n k l o w e r t h a n t h e b r u t e i t s a c r i f i c e d .

F o r t w o p i c e I b o u g h t o n e o f t h e p o p u l a r p r i n t s o f t h e

A l l a h a b a d f e s t i v a l , h a w k e d b y t h e w a y s i d e . I t i s a r u d e

and primiti ve representation of Kr ishna standing on a

l o t u s o n t h e s a n d s ; o n t h e s u r f a c e o f t h e G a n g e s a d e i t y

f l o a t s o n a c r o c o d i l e ; on the Jumna a deity ri des on a

t u r t l e ; while b etween, presu mably on the unseen Saras-

w a t i , a d e i t y r i d e s o n a g o o s e . I t a p p e a r e d a t f i r s t a f a i r

t r i a d , a n d f a i r l y m o u n t e d o n t h e z o o l o g i c t y p e s o f c r u e l t y ,

s l o w n e s s , a n d s i l l i n e s s , b u t i t i s t h e b r u t e f o r m s s u b j e c t

t o d i v i n e f o r m s . I returned to enlightened Akbar's be-

loved Allahabad, which Moslem zealots changed to "City

of Allapast," passi ng the night-camps of i nnumerable

pilgri ms, whose fires and cauld rons made appropriate

i n c i d e n t s i n t h e b i g W i t c h e s ' S a b b a t h I h a d w i t n e s s e d .

There w ere no tents ; they w ere spr eading their s traw

b e d s o n t h e g r o u n d i n t h e o p e n a i r , a m o t l e y m u l t i t u d e

o f m e n a n d w o m e n , t h e r e b e i n g , h o w e v e r , n o i n d i c a t i o n s

o f l i c e n t i o u s n e s s . I p a s s e d b y t h e s p o t w h e r e t h e g r e a t -

hearted, c atholic-minded Akbar lived- where the noble

P i l l a r o f A s o k a , w i t h i t s s u b l i m e B u d d h i s t e d i c t s , s t i l l

r i ses - and wondered if they who now hold the fort

w h i c h g u a r d s t h a t s p o t w i l l e v e r r i s e t o a c o r r e s p o n d i n g

h e i g h t , a n d c o n f r o n t t h e s u p e r s t i t i o n s a n d d o g m a s o f t h e

p o o r m i s s i o n a r y l a b o u r i n g s o v a i n l y i n h i s t e n t .

While at Allahabad, u nder the vivid impressi ons of



HINDU AND CHRISTIAN FANATICS 309

w h a t I h a d s e e n , I w r o t e s o m e a c c o u n t o f t h e m f o r a j o u r -

n a l , w h i c h e x c i t e d t h e a t t e n t i o n o f r e l i g i o u s p a p e r s . I

w a s m o r t i f i e d t o l e a r n t h a t m y t e s t i m o n y w a s c i t e d t o

s h o w t h e n e e d o f m i s s i o n s i n I n d i a , i t s i m p o r t a n c e b e i n g

t h a t I w a s k n o w n t o b e a n a d m i r e r o f t h e o r i e n t a l r e l i -

g i o n s . I d i d n o t b l a m e t h e r e l i g i o u s j o u r n a l s a n d t h e

p r e a c h e r s f o r m a k i n g t h e m o s t o f m y d e s c r i p t i o n ; i t w a s

m y o w n m i s t a k e t o f o r g e t t h a t I w a s c a r r y i n g m y S o u t h

P l a c e p l a t f o r m a l o n g i n w h a t e v e r I w r o t e , a n d i n g i v i n g

t o t h e w o r l d a d e s c r i p t i o n o f c e r t a i n m o r b i d p h e n o m e n a

i n I n d i a d e t a c h e d f r o m m y a c c o u n t o f t h i n g s h e a l t h y a n d

b e a u t i f u l .

W h a t I w i t n e s s e d a t A l l a h a b a d w a s t h e e l i t e o f t h e f a -

n a t i c i s m s o f t h e c o u n t r y , r e p r e s e n t e d b y t w o m i l l i o n s o u t

o f a p o p u l a t i o n o f 3 0 0 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0 . T h e p r o p o r t i o n o f H i n d u s

w h o d e p l o r e s u c h t h i n g s t o t h o s e w h o a c t i n t h e m i s a s

l a r g e a s t h e p r o p o r t i o n o f A m e r i c a n s w h o h o l d a l o o f f r o m

s p i r i t - r a p p i n g , C h r i s t i a n S c i e n c e , a n d t h e S a l v a t i o n A r m y .

A n d f o r t h e r e s t , w h a t w e r e t h e s e h a r m l e s s o r g i e s o f

t h r e e d a y s , d u r i n g w h i c h n o a c c i d e n t o r i n j u r y o c c u r r e d

t o a n y o n e , c o m p a r e d w i t h w h a t I h a d w i t n e s s e d f o r m a n y

d a y s t o g e t h e r o n C h r i s t i a n b a t t l e f i e l d s ? O f c o u r s e i t w i l l

a p p e a r d i f f e r e n t l y t o C h r i s t i a n s f a n a t i c a l e n o u g h t o b e -

l i e v e t h a t a l l t h e s e d e v o t e e s a r e p a s s i n g i n t o e t e r n a l f i r e s ,

b u t f o r m y p a r t I w o u l d f a r r a t h e r s e e t h e c r o w d o f p e o p l e

i n m y n a t i v e S o u t h g a t h e r e d t o s a c r i f i c e k i d s b e f o r e K a l i

o r C o b r a , t h a n g a t h e r e d t o b u r n a l i v i n g n e g r o .

T h e l a t e P r o f e s s o r F . W . N e w m a n , b r o t h e r o f t h e c a r -

d i n a l , i n e a r l y l i f e d i s c o v e r e d t h a t t h e r e w a s n o p o s s i b i l -

i t y o f c o n v e r t i n g t h e"

h e a t h e n " u n t i l C h r i s t e n d o m h a d

earned a new r epu tation among them . C h r i s t i a n s a r e

k n o w n a m o n g t h e m a s g r e a t c o n q u e r o r s , a v e n g e r s , t r a d e r s ,

o f t e n l a x i n m o r a l s , i n d i f f e r e n t t o r e l i g i o n . N e wman im -



3 10 MY PILGRIMAGE

a g i n e d a l i t t l e c o l o n y a m o n g t h e s e a l i e n s , s o a n i m a t e d b y

p r i m i t i v e f a i t h , l o v e , d i s i n t e r e s t e d n e s s , t h a t t h e i r m o r a l

i n f l u e n c e m i g h t b e f e l t . S e v e r a l I r i s h y o u t h s s y m p a t h i z e d

w i t h h i s v i s i o n , a n d i n 1 8 3 0 t h e y l e f t f o r B a g d a d . N e w -

m a n , t h e n a b o u t t w e n t y - f i v e , h e l d a c o n v e r s a t i o n a t A l e p p o

w i t h a M o h a m m e d a n c a r p e n t e r , w h i c h l e f t o n h i m a l a s t -

i n g i m p r e s s i o n . " Among other matters," s ays New man,

" I w a s p e c u l i a r l y d e s i r o u s o f d i s a b u s i n g h i m o f t h e c u r -

r e n t n o t i o n o f h i s p e o p l e , t h a t o u r g o s p e l s a r e s p u r i o u s

n a r r a t i v e s o f l a t e d a t e . I f o u n d g r e a t d i f f i c u l t y o f e x p r e s -

s i o n ; bu t the man lis tened to me wi th much attention,

and I was encouraged to exert myself . He waited pa-

t i e n t l y t i l l I h a d d o n e , a n d t h e n s p o k e t o t h e f o l l o w i n g

e f f e c t : ' I w i l l t e l l y o u , s i r , h o w t h e c a s e s t a n d s . G o d

h a s g i v e n t o y o u E n g l i s h a g r e a t m a n y g o o d g i f t s . Yo u

m a k e f i n e s h i p s , a n d s h a r p p e n k n i v e s , a n d g o o d c l o t h a n d

c o t t o n s ; a n d y o u h a v e r i c h n o b l e s a n d b r a v e s o l d i e r s ; a n d

you wr ite and pr int many learned b ooks (di ctionaries

and grammars ) : a l l t h i s i s o f G o d . B u t t h e r e i s o n e t h i n g

t h a t G o d h a s w i t h h e l d f r o m y o u , a n d h a s r e v e a l e d t o u s ;

a n d t h a t i s t h e k n o w l e d g e o f t h e t r u e r e l i g i o n , b y w h i c h

one may b e saved .' When he thus i gnored my argu ment

(whic h was probably qui te unintelligibl e to him), and

d e l i v e r e d h i s s i m p l e p r o t e s t , I w a s s i l e n c e d , a n d a t t h e

same time amused . B u t t h e m o r e I t h o u g h t i t o v e r , t h e

m o r e i n s t r u c t i o n I s a w i n t h e c a s e . "

After years of mental troubl e Newman found that the

Mohammedan carpenter w as near the tru th so far as

English i gnorance of religion was concerned . While in

Indi a I often recalled the incid ent, about whic h I had

a t a l k w i t h N e w m a n , i n t h e c o u r s e o f w h i c h h e m e n t i o n e d

t h e i m p r e s s i o n m a d e u p o n h i m d u r i n g a v o y a g e i n P e r s i a n

w a t e r s . "The Persians sat on deck all day motionless,



THE DOCTRINE OF SACRIFICE 3 1 1

n e v e r l i f t i n g t h e i r e y e s f r o m t h e i r b o o k s , t h e i r s c r i p t u r e s

a n d p o e t s , w h i c h s e e m e d t o g i v e t h e m s e r e n e h a p p i n e s s . "

T h e l a t e P r o f e s s o r P a l m e r o f C a m b r i d g e , w h e n g i v i n g m e

h i s t r a n s l a t i o n o f a P e r s i a n p o e m f o r m y " S a c r e d A n t h o -

l o g y , " s a i d , " I t e l l m y f r i e n d s t h a t i f t h e y s t u d y c a r e -

f u l l y P e r s i a n l i t e r a t u r e t h e y w i l l k n o w s o m e t h i n g a b o u t

r e l i g i o n . " W o u l d i t n o t b e w e l l i f y o u n g m e n a s p i r i n g

t o m i s s i o n a r y w o r k w e r e f i r s t s e n t o u t t o t h e s e o r i e n t a l

c o u n t r i e s u n d e r e n g a g e m e n t n o t t o c r i t i c i s e t h e i r e x i s t i n g

r e l i g i o n s u n t i l t h e y h a d p a s s e d a y e a r o r t w o i n s t u d y i n g

t h e m ? W e r e t h e y t o s w e e p d i l i g e n t l y e v e n a m o n g t h e s e

r e p u l s i v e s a c r i f i c e s a n d c e r e m o n i e s o f t h e m o r e u n e d u c a t e d

H i n d u s , s u c h u n c o m m i t t e d s t u d e n t s m i g h t f i n d a p e a r l o f

p r i c e w h i c h t h e C h r i s t i a n f a t h e r s p o s s e s s e d , b u t w h i c h

h a s b e e n l o s t u n d e r t h e i n v a s i o n s o f m e t a p h y s i c s a n d t h e -

o l o g y . I f o n e r e a d s t h e w o r k s o f I r e m e u s , T e r t u l l i a n ,

O r i g e n , a n d G r e g o r y o f N y s s a , h e f i n d s a d o c t r i n e o f R e -

d e m p t i o n w h i c h , h o w e v e r m i n g l e d w i t h s u p e r s t i t i o n , a t

l e a s t h a r m o n i z e s w i t h D i v i n e L o v e a n d J u s t i c e . T h e i r

f a i t h n e v e r i m a g i n e d t h a t t h e F a t h e r h a d r e q u i r e d t h e

d e a t h o f h i s S o n . T h e s a c r i f i c e w a s s o l e l y t o S a t a n , t o

whom the human race w as under a bond whic h not only

d o o m e d m a n k i n d t o a f u t u r e h e l l , b u t a l s o s o c o r r u p t e d

t h e m i n t h i s w o r l d t h a t t h e y w e r e n o t a d m i s s i b l e t o t h e

divi ne kingdom . T h i s m o r a l l y s u b l i m e i d e a o f a d i v i n e

b e i n g s p o n t a n e o u s l y o f f e r i n g h i m s e l f t o b e s u b j e c t t o S a t a n ,

a n d g o t o h e l l f o r t h e r a n s o m o f m a n k i n d , w a s r e p u d i a t e d

b y A t h a n a s i u s t o w a r d s t h e e n d o f t h e f o u r t h c e n t u r y . T he

j e a l o u s y o f t h e H e b r e w d e i t y , u n w i l l i n g t o a d m i t a n y

l i m i t t o h i s p o w e r , e v e n i n t h e d o m a i n o f D i a b o l i s m ,

b r o u g h t C h r i s t e n d o m t o t h a t c o n c e p t i o n w h i c h w e t h i n k

especially horri ble among savages,-H uman Sacrif ice!

W h e r e O r i g e n b e h e l d a p u r e G o d s o l o v i n g t h e w o r l d a s



3 1 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

t o sacr if ic e himself to the dark and evil Powers of

natur e as a su bs titute for the doomed r ace, the modern

theologian now sees a God su bs tituted for those evil

Powers and demanding the death of Chri st for his own

s a t i s f a c t i o n .

I have gone into this anomaly of Chri stian his tory

i n o r d e r t o i l l u s t r a t e w h a t I m e a n b y t h e l o s t P e a r l . The

r e l i g i o u s s p i r i t o f t h e o r i e n t a l w o r l d i s j u s t t h a t o f t h e

e a r l y C h r i s t i a n b e l i e v e r s . A l l o f t h e s e s a c r i f i c e s o f g o a t s

which I saw at Kalighat and Allahabad were off ered to

those same dark and evil Powers . They are meant to

p l a c a t e t h e p e r s o n i f i e d d i s e a s e s a n d a g o n i e s w h i c h I s a w

i n t h e " d e v i l - d a n c e s " at Colombo . T o V i s h n u o r h i s a v a -

t a r s n o h u m a n s a c r i f i c e s w e r e e v e r s a n c t i o n e d b y a n y r e a l

H i n d u r e l i g i o n . S u t t e e ( S a t i ) w a s n e v e r a s a c r i f i c e ; i t w a s

a w i f e g l a d l y a c c o m p a n y i n g h e r l o r d i n a c h a r i o t o f f i r e t o

a n e a r t h l y p a r a d i s e t h e r e t o d w e l l w i t h h i m i n j o y f o r e v e r .

T h e e f f o r t t o p r o v e t h a t h u m a n s a c r i f i c e s o c c u r r e d u n d e r

the car of J uggenauth has totally f ailed . T h e l o w e r

c l a s s e s s t i l l c o n t i n u e t h e a n i m a l s a c r i f i c e s o n g r e a t f e s t i -

v a l o c c a s i o n s , b u t o n e c a n n o t s a y h o w f a r t h i s i s d u e t o

t h e m o t i v e o f p r o p i t i a t i o n , o r s i m p l y t h e c o n t i n u a n c e o f

o l d u s a g e s w i t h o u t a n y c o n s c i o u s p u r p o s e . A t a n y r a t e ,

t h e p r e s e n c e o f b l o o d o n a n y a l t a r i n I n d i a m e a n s a s a c -

r i f i c e t o s o m e d e m o n . T h e o n l y o f f e r i n g s o n t h e a l t a r s o f

t h e s u p r e m e d e i t i e s a r e f l o w e r s . T h e f o l l o w i n g s e n t e n c e s I

p i c k e d o u t o f a t r a n s l a t i o n f r o m t h e A g n i P u r a n a b y H . H .

Wilson, F . R . S . , - a manusc ri pt in the Indi a House

l i b r a r y i n L o n d o n : -

That is the best worship w hich is made without the

e x p e c t a t i o n o f t h e a t t a i n m e n t o f a n y p a r t i c u l a r o b j e c t ;

t h e w o r s t i s t h a t w h i c h i s p e r f o r m e d f o r t h e a c c o m p l i s h -

m e n t o f a p a r t i c u l a r e n d .



ANCIENT HINDU CHRISTIANS 313

He who adores Vis hnu s hould behold him in everyc r e a t u r e a n d e v e r y c r e a t u r e i n h i m .

T h e w o r s h i p p e r s h a l l d o h o m a g e t o h i m s e l f . H e s h a l l

t h i n k i n h i m s e l f t h a t t h e s p i r i t w h i c h e x i s t s i n t h e c r o w n

o f h i s h e a d h a s d i s p e l l e d t h e d a r k n e s s o f h i s b o d y , i n t e r -

n a l a n d e x t e r n a l , a n d e n d o w e d t h e w h o l e f o r m a n d t h e

s e n s e , s o t h a t h e m a y c o n s i d e r a n d s a y , " I a m d i v i n e , " a n d

l a y b o l d o n t h e s w o r d o f k n o w l e d g e .

T h e L o r d o f L i f e ( V i s h n u ) s h o u l d n o t b e w o r s h i p p e d

w i t h f l o w e r s t h a t h a v e f a d e d . T h o s e t h a t g r o w i n t h i n e

o w n g a r d e n a r e f a r b e t t e r t h a n t h o s e o f a n y o t h e r . With

t h e f l o w e r s g a t h e r e d t h e r e m u s t b e r e v e r e n c e - i t s e l f a

f l o w e r .

T h e r e i s i n t h e i n t e l l e c t a s a c r e d l o t u s t o w h i c h e v e r y

b r e a t h i s w a f t e d , a n d i n i t l o s t . H e w h o s h a l l c o n t e m p l a t e

t h i s f l o w e r i n t h e i n t e l l e c t s h a l l f i n d i t f u l l o f s p l e n d o u r ,

b e y o n d t h e c o l l e c t i v e l i g h t o f m a n y m o o n s , a n d n e a r u n t o

t h e D e i t y .

T h e H i n d u C h r i s t i a n s f o u n d b y C o s m a s I n d i c o p l e u s t e s

i n t h e s i x t h c e n t u r y - a l a r g e n u m b e r o f c o n g r e g a t i o n s w i t h

a b i s h o p o r d a i n e d i n P e r s i a - w e r e c a l l e d 1 1 C h r i s t i a n s o f

St. T h o m a s . " T h e y w e r e u n i t e d w i t h t h e R o m a n C a t h o l i c

C h u r c h i n 1 5 9 9 , a n d s e v e n y e a r s l a t e r t h e J e s u i t f a t h e r ,

R o b e r t D e N o b i l i , c o n c e i v e d t h e p l a n o f a c c o m m o d a t i n g

h i m s e l f a n d h i s m i s s i o n t o H i n d u c u s t o m s . He encoun-

t e r e d s t r o n g o p p o s i t i o n i n h i s o r d e r , b u t t h e v i o l e n t c o n -

t r o v e r s y a f t e r t h i r t e e n y e a r s w a s d e c i d e d by P o p e G r e g o r y

X V i n h i s f a v o u r , a n d t h e c h u r c h i n I n d i a l a r g e l y i n -

c r e a s e d u n t i l t h e s a c r i f i c i a l d o g m a s w e r e i n t r o d u c e d a b o u t

t w o c e n t u r i e s l a t e r . T h e w h o l e s u b j e c t r e q u i r e s a m i n u t e

h i s t o r i c a l a n d c r i t i c a l e x a m i n a t i o n n e v e r g i v e n i t . But

i t i s c e r t a i n t h a t i f t h e H i n d u s c o u l d b e i n d u c e d t o a d o p t

t h e t h e o l o g y o f a b l o o d s a c r i f i c e t o a n y d e i t y t h a t d e i t y

w o u l d f a l l t o t h e l e v e l o f t h o s e e v i l b e i n g s t o w h o m g o a t s

a r e n o w s a c r i f i c e d .



3 1 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

T h e f u n d a m e n t a l d i v i s i o n b e t w e e n t h e o r i e n t a l r e l i g i o n s

a n d C h r i s t i a n i t y i s t h e m e r i t p r i n c i p l e o f t h e f o r m e r a n d

t h e v i c a r i o u s p r i n c i p l e o f t h e l a t t e r . T h e m i s s i o n a r i e s i n

s o u n d i n g t h e c h a n g e s o n t h e s u p e r i o r i t y o f t h e C h r i s t i a n

n a t i o n s i n w e a l t h a r e u s i n g t h e i r b e s t a r g u m e n t . People

w h o c a n r e l i e v e t h e i r c o n s c i e n c e s b y c l a i m i n g i n d e m n i t y

f o r t h e i r s i n s t h r o u g h C h r i s t a r e m o r e f r e e i n a c t i o n , a n d

i f t h e i n d e m n i t y d i d n o t e q u a l l y i n c l u d e b a d a c t i o n s a

p h i l o s o p h i c s e c u l a r i s t m i g h t r e j o i c e i n w h a t s t r i k e s t h e

oriental mind as worldl iness . The grievous bur den of

o r i e n t a l r e l i g i o n i s t h a t t h e p e r s o n a l m e r i t s a r e i n t h e

l a r g e r p a r t n o t r e a l a n d p r a c t i c a l m e r i t s , b u t a h e r i t a g e

o f r i t e s a n d c e r e m o n i e s , p o i n t s o f e t i q u e t t e d e m a n d e d b y

i m a g i n a r y d e i t i e s . These deities w ere no doubt evolved

o u t o f m e r e p h r a s e s , -a s i f o u t o f s u c h C h r i s t i a n p h r a s e s

f o r J e h o v a h a s " A n c i e n t o f D a y s , " " C r e a t o r , "" Maker,"

, , Almighty," -H eavenly Father," "Firs t Pers on," etc . ,

e a c h e p i t h e t w a s s e v e r a l l y p e r s o n i f i e d , e a c h p e r s o n i f i c a t i o n

g i v i n g r i s e t o a n e w b r o o d .

By this pr ocess the poetic beauty was los t from the

e a r l y c o n c e p t i o n s . I n 1 8 3 8 E m e r s o n i n h i s a d d r e s s t o t h e

divi nity students at Cambrid ge said : " The idioms of

h i s ( J e s u s ' ) l a n g u a g e a n d t h e f i g u r e s o f h i s r h e t o r i c h a v e

u s u r p e d t h e p l a c e o f h i s t r u t h ; a n d c h u r c h e s a r e n o t b u i l t

o n h i s p r i n c i p l e s , b u t o n h i s t r o p e s . C h r i s t i a n i t y b e c a m e

a M y t h u s , a s t h e p o e t i c t e a c h i n g o f G r e e c e a n d o f E g y p t ,

b e f o r e . " T h e r e s u l t o f t h e s i m i l a r p r o c e s s i n I n d i a h a s

a p p a r e n t l y b e e n m o r e s e r i o u s , b e c a u s e i t w a s n o t s o m u c h

chur ches that were bui lt on the tropes as homes and

haunted mind s . M a x M u l l e r n o t i c e d t h a t t h e s k y i s n e v e r

s p o k e n o f a s"

b l u e " i n t h e B i b l e o r i n t h e V e d a s . I n t h e

V e d a s t h e s i n g e r s c o u l d h a r d l y t h i n k o f c o l o u r o r b e a u t y

i n a s k y t h a t h a d a l r e a d y b e c o m e t h e a l l - s e a r c h i n g e y e o f



INTEREST IN INDIAN RELIGIONS 3 1 5

V a r u n a r e f l e c t e d e v e n i n t h e w a t e r . V a r u n a w a s t h e s p e -

c i a l g u a r d i a n o f m o r a l s , b u t u n f o r t u n a t e l y n o t m e r e l y o f

human moral s . T h u s , c h i l d l e s s H a r i s c h a n d r a . h a v i n g

m a d e a v o w t o V a r u n a t h a t i f g r a n t e d c h i l d r e n h e w o u l d

i m m o l a t e h i s f i r s t - b o r n t o h i m , a s o n ( R o h i t a ) w a s b o r n .

T h e f a t h e r e v a d e d h i s v o w a n d V a r u n a a f f l i c t e d h i m ( t h e

f a t h e r ) w i t h d r o p s y . A n d t h e v e n g e a n c e f o r t h a t u n f u l -

f i l l e d v o w w e n t o n .

Varuna was u ltimately s upplanted by D yaus, a name

which sur vives in Jup iter (Dy aus-pater, father o f

Heaven) . A n d w h a t t h e o u t c o m e o f t h i s d e v e l o p m e n t o f

e g o i s t i c d i v i n i t y w a s w e k n o w b y A r i s t o t l e ' s r e m a r k , " I t

w o u l d b e r i d i c u l o u s f o r a n y o n e t o s a y t h a t h e l o v e s J u p i -

t e r . " B u t f e a r m a y r e m a i n a f t e r l o v e c e a s e s , a n d h a u n t s

t h e n u r s e r y a f t e r b e c o m i n g m e r e l y f o r m a l a m o n g t h e m a -

t u r e .

Since the Englis h government has ass umed i n Indi a

t h e a t t i t u d e o f a p u r e l y s e c u l a r p o w e r , e n t i r e l y n e u t r a l

b e t w e e n a l l r e l i g i o n s , C h r i s t i a n i t y i n c l u d e d , t h e E n g l i s h

r e s i d e n t s i n I n d i a h a v e m a n i f e s t e d a g o o d d e a l o f i n t e r e s t

in the vari ous s ys tems around them . T h e c u l t i v a t e d

g e n t l e m e n o f t h e c i v i l s e r v i c e a r e a p t t o b e t h o s e w h o

s o u g h t o f f i c e i n I n d i a b e c a u s e o f t h e i r a p p r e c i a t i o n o f

t h e g r a n d l i t e r a t u r e a n d h i s t o r i c i n t e r e s t o f t h e c o u n t r y .

T h e r e i s n o l o n g e r a m o n g t h e c h a p l a i n s s e n t o u t b y t h e

English C hurc h any talk about "heathenism . " All of

w h i c h i s f a v o u r a b l e f o r l e a v e n i n g t h e B r a h m a n m e a s u r e s

o f m e a l w i t h t h a t p o l i t e s o c i a l i n t e r e s t w h i c h d i s s e n t e r s

a n d H i n d u s a l i k e r e g a r d a s " w o r l d l i n e s s . " I t i s , h o w e v e r ,

p o s s i b l e t h a t t h i s l i t e r a r y a n d p h i l o s o p h i c a l i n t e r e s t o f

E n g l i s h s c h o l a r s m a y b e t o o a c a d e m i c . O n e f e e l s a t e v e r y

s t e p t h e v a s t d i s t a n c e o f t h e p o p u l a r w o r s h i p f r o m t h e w i t

a n d w i s d o m o f t h e a n c i e n t b o o k s . R e s p e c t a n d c h a r i t y



3 1 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

do not requir e that one shall applaud any r eligion so

i n d i s c r i m i n a t e l y a s t o i n c l u d e t h e p r a c t i c a l e x c r e s c e n c e s

i n w h i c h a r e a c c u m u l a t e d t h e s m a l l o c c a s i o n a l f a n a t i c i s m s

o f a g e s . T h e h u r t f u l t h i n g i n t h e o l o g i c a l e r r o r i s n o t i n

a n y c a t e c h e t i c a l f o r m u l a ; into that an indiv id ual mind

w i l l b e c e r t a i n t o r e a d i t s o w n i d e a s : b u t t h e e v i l i s d o n e i n

t h e n e s t s o f o l d c u s t o m w h e r e t h e n e w i d e a s w a r m i n t o l i f e

f o r c e s o f p r a c t i c a l e v i l . W h a t I n d i a r e a l l y n e e d s i s n o t

t h a t u n i v e r s a l p o l i t i c a l s u f f r a g e w h i c h i s t h e E u r o p e a n

and Americ an kingdom of Heaven, nor the abolition of

B r a h m a n c a s t e , - w h i c h i s n o t a t a l l l i k e t h e l u x u r i o u s

a n d p r i v i l e g e d a r i s t o c r a c y o f o t h e r c o u n t r i e s , b u t m o r e

like that scholars' caste which Emerson hoped f or in

Amer i c a : t h e n e e d i s f o r a h a p p i e r s o c i a l l i f e , w i t h g e n -

t l e m e n a n d l a d i e s m e e t i n g i n i t o n e q u a l t e r m s , a n d t h e

practical emancipation of manners and habits f rom the

a s c e t i c u s a g e s w h i c h t h e c u l t u r e d P a n d i t s r e g a r d a s a n

e x o t e r i c n e c e s s i t y f o r p o p u l a r m o r a l i t y . I t i s t h a t s c h o l -

a r l y P a n d i t w h o h a s t o l e a r n f r o m s c h o l a r l y E n g l a n d t h a t

t h e g r e a t e s t i m m o r a l i t y i s a n y s y s t e m t h a t s i t s a u t h o r i t a -

t i v e l y o n e v e r y w o m a n a n d c h i l d a n d p r e v e n t s t h e d e v e l -

o p m e n t o f t h e m o r a l f r e e d o m e s s e n t i a l t o r e a l v i r t u e a s

w e l l a s t o h a p p i n e s s .



CHAPTER XV

B o m b a y - Alexander Agassiz - M i s s i o n a r i e s -E ng lan d i n I n d i a -" The

Old Mis s ionary" -Nelacantah Ooreh-P r o f e s s o r Pete r s on - H i n d u

h y m n -A drive wi th Judge West-Shankur an Pandi t-The Tower s

o f S i l e n c e - Z o r o a s s t r i a n i s m - Parsis - The zenana - R am ab a i - K e-

s h u b C h u n d e r Sen and h i s monu ment -Bhakti (faith)-I n d i a n

s e c t s -F a u l t s o f E n g l i s h c o l o n i s t s -Samuel Laing, M . P . , " A Moder n

Z o r o a s t r i a n "- The ideal Jain temple .

AS I w a s a p p r o a c h i n g B o m b a y I o b s e r v e d w i t h d e l i g h t

a g r o u p o f l a r g e m o n k e y s s p o r t i n g i n t h e f o r e s t .

T h e y l o o k e d l i k e t r u a n t c h i l d r e n c o m e o u t t o s e e o u r t r a i n

p a s s . We were moving slowl y and I had a chance to

w a v e m y h a n d k e r c h i e f t o t h e m , a n d t o s e e t h e m d a n c i n g

about and s ome running up the trees . I w a s t r a v e l l i n g

w i t h C o l o n e l M i l l e r o f B o m b a y , a c l e v e r a n d s o l i d E n g -

l i s h g e n t l e m a n , w h o w a s e q u a l t o a n y a m o u n t o f w a r b u t

c o u l d n o t f o r g i v e H a e c k e l f o r h a v i n g k i l l e d o n e m o n k e y .

( I t w a s a p e c u l i a r m o n k e y w h i c h t h e n a t u r a l i s t w a n t e d

f o r h i s c o l l e g e m u s e u m a t J e n a . ) C o l o n e l M i l l e r , a n a m -

a t e u r a r t i s t a l s o , k n e w m o n k e y s w e l l , a n d a g r e e d w i t h

the Sinhalese that to kill a monkey w as mur der even

t h o u g h d o n e f o r s c i e n c e . T h o s e f o r e s t m o n k e y s m a d e m e

r e a l i z e t h e t r u t h o f O e r s t e d ' s c h a p t e r o n t h e " U n b e a u t i -

f u l i n N a t u r e , " i n w h i c h h e a f f i r m s t h a t i t i s o n l y w h e n

w e s e e c r e a t u r e s o u t o f t h e i r n a t u r a l p l a c e t h a t w e d o n o t

r e c o g n i z e t h e i r b e a u t y .

In Bombay, b y the introduc tion of my South Place

fr iend Mr . P h i p s o n , I w a s a c c o r d e d a r o o m i n t h e E n g -

l i s h C l u b . T h e r e w e r e e m i n e n t s c h o l a r s i n t h e p l a c e w h o



3 1 8 MY PILGRIMAGE

m a d e my stay happy and i nstructive . With Professor

P e t e r s o n o f E l p h i n s t o n e U n i v e r s i t y I v i s i t e d t h e c a v e s o f

El ephanta, and there had the pleasur e of meeting my

old acq uaintance Alexander Agassi z . He resembled his

father in various ways . I am not sur e that he is old

enough to remember the time when his f ather was the

most widely d enounced heretic in Americ a, and f rom

t h a t r e t r o s p e c t i v e p o i n t o f v i e w s a w w i t h m e t h e p i c t u r -

e s q u e n e s s o f t h e s a m e h e r e t i c b e c o m i n g a d a r l i n g o f t h e

pulpits because of his opposition to Darwinism . I t r e -

qu ir ed only a decade for the storm that raged around

t h e h e r e s y t h a t m a n k i n d w a s n o t d e s c e n d e d f r o m a s i n g l e

p a i r t o s i n k i n t o a t e a p o t t e m p e s t b e s i d e t h e t o r n a d o e s

c a u s e d b y t h e d i s c o v e r y o f o u r a n t h r o p o i d a n c e s t r y .

T h e o f f e n c e g i v e n b y A g a s s i z w a s n o t r e a l l y t h e d e n i a l

o f a n y B i b l i c a l s t a t e m e n t , i t b e i n g i n d e e d e a s y t o f i n d i n

t h e B i b l e s u g g e s t i o n s o f v a r i o u s o r i g i n s o f m a n k i n d , -a s

f o r i n s t a n c e C a i n ' s e m i g r a t i o n t o t h e L a n d o f N o d , f i n d i n g

a w i f e t h e r e a n d b u i l d i n g a c i t y . T h e t r o u b l e w a s t h a t t h e

t h e o r y o f A g a s s i z d i d a w a y w i t h t h e f u n d a m e n t a l f a i t h " i n

A d a m ' s f a l l w e s i n n e d a l l , " a n d l o g i c a l l y u p s e t t h e e n t i r e

sys tem of mis sions to peoples not descended fr om the

fair and perfect Adam and Eve created by Milton in the

Ga r d en of E d en . And that corollary was not evaded by

Agassi z ; h e s a i d i t w a s a g r i e v o u s m i s t a k e t o t r y a n d i n -

troduc e our own doctri nes and institutions among races

t o t a l l y d i s t i n c t b y o r i g i n a n d d e v e l o p m e n t .

A f t e r m y t r a v e l s i n I n d i a I r e a c h e d t h e c o n c l u s i o n t h a t

t h e p o s s e s s i o n o f t h a t v a s t c o u n t r y b y E n g l a n d i s a g r e a t

bles sing to manki nd as well as to India, this being

l a r g e l y d u e t o t h e f a c t t h a t r e l i g i o n h a d n o t h i n g t o d o w i t h

i t s o r i g i n ; a l s o t h a t t h e E n g l i s h m o n a r c h b e i n g t h e o f f i c i a l

h e a d o f B r a h m a n i s m , i t i s a s o r t o f d i s l o y a l t y f o r C h r i s -



ENGLAND IN INDIA 3 1 9

t i a n i t y t o i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e n a t u r a l r e l i g i o n o f t h e c o u n t r y .

T h e o l d E a s t I n d i a C o m p a n y w a s a p u r e l y m e r c a n t i l e c o n -

c e r n ; i n s t e a d o f c a r i n g a b o u t t h e i n s t i t u t i o n s o r m o r a l s o f

t h e c o u n t r y , t h e h a r e m s o f s o m e o l d t r a d e s m e n a r e s t i l l

a s s o c i a t e d w i t h s e v e r a l g r o u p s o f h o u s e s ; t h e y n e v e r c o n -

s i d e r e d i t n e c e s s a r y t h a t t h e n a t i v e s s h o u l d b e c l o t h e d l i k e

t h e E n g l i s h . I n t h i s w a y t h e t r a d i t i o n s o f p e r s o n a l l i b e r t y

i n I n d i a w e r e s o l i d i f i e d b e f o r e t h e c o u n t r y p a s s e d u n d e r

w h a t i s c a l l e d t h e " benevolent desp otism " of E ngland .

A n d w h a t e v e r m a y b e s a i d o f t h e f a u l t s o f t h e g o v e r n m e n t

i n I n d i a , b e n e v o l e n t i t c e r t a i n l y i s i n t h e m o s t i m p o r t a n t

s e n s e , - n a m e l y , t h a t i t h a s e n t i r e l y e n d e d t h e o l d c h r o n i c

w a r s b e t w e e n t r i b e s a n d r a c e s o n p o i n t s o f t h e o l o g y . I n

C h i n a a n d M a n i l a , A m e r i c a n m i s s i o n a r i e s , - e s p e c i a l l y n o -

t o r i o u s s i n c e t h e t i m e o f J u d s o n f o r t h e i r i g n o r a n c e , -c an

c o n t i n u e t o a d v a n c e t h e c r o s s b y t h e s w o r d , b u t i n I n d i a

C h r i s t i a n i t y i s c o m p e l l e d t o d e p e n d o n i t s m e r i t s a n d a t -

t r a c t i o n s . The Taeping insur rection and massacr es in

C h i n a w e r e n o t t h e w o r k o f a n y n a t i v e r e l i g i o n i s t s i n t h a t

c o u n t r y , b u t o f a p o w e r f u l c h i e f e x c e s s i v e l y c o n v e r t e d b y

s o m e A m e r i c a n m i s s i o n a r i e s , w h o b e g a n b u t c h e r i n g C o n f u -

c i a n s a n d B u d d h i s t s i n a c c o r d a n c e w i t h t h e d i v i n e o r d e r s

in the Bib le for exterminating the Canaanites and the

p r i e s t s o f B a a l . I f t h e m i s s i o n a r i e s i n I n d i a o n l y k n e w

more of the people they would tremble to reflect what

m i g h t o c c u r i f t h o s e p e o p l e s h o u l d a c c e p t t h e B i b l e a s t h e i r

g u i d e . E n g l i s h a n d A m e r i c a n C h r i s t i a n s a d a p t t h e m s e l v e s

a t h o m e t o t h e i r s y s t e m s , a n d d o n o t a c c e p t l i t e r a l l y t h e

sayings as cr ibed to Jesus that he had c ome not to send

p e a c e b u t a s w o r d , a n d t h a t h i s d i s c i p l e s s h o u l d s e l l t h e i r

garments to buy swor ds . B u t a l o n g a n d t r a g i c a l h i s t o r y

h a s s h o w n t h a t t h e H i n d u s a r e a p t t o t a k e a b s t r a c t i o n s i n

s e r i o u s a n d p r a c t i c a l w a y s .



3 2 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

A little book b y Sir Wil liam Hu nter, entitled " T h e

Old Miss ionary," -he told me it was drawn f rom fact,-eveals the reason why men of abi lity and l earning

h a v e w i t h d r a w n f r o m t h e m i s s i o n a r y f i e l d i n I n d i a . T he

missi onary, albeit not unorthodox, had emphasized the

g e n t l e , b e n e v o l e n t , a n d h u m a n e e l e m e n t s o f h i s r e l i g i o n ,

a n d b l e n d e d t h e m w i t h t h e s a m e e l e m e n t s i n t h e r e l i g i o n

of the humble people around him . He had gained their

affection, and buil t up a peaceful and happy paris h of

n a t i v e C h r i s t i a n s , n o n e o f w h o m c o u l d u n d e r s t a n d a w o r d

o f t h e c r e e d s , b u t w e r e a l l a b l e t o f e e l t h e c h a r m o f h i s

s p i r i t a n d h i s c h a r i t i e s . B u t o n e b r i l l i a n t H i n d u y o u t h o f

his pari sh resolved to become a clergyman ; h e s t u d i e d

t h e B i b l e a n d t h e C h u r c h f o r m u l a s c r i t i c a l l y a n d d i s c o v -

e r e d w h a t t h e o l d m i s s i o n a r y h a d k e p t i n t h e b a c k g r o u n d .

H e i n s i s t e d o n t h e l e t t e r o f t h e c r e e d s a n d s a c r a m e n t s ,

s p l i t u p t h e o l d m i s s i o n a r y ' s p a r i s h , r u i n e d a l l h i s w o r k ,

a n d b r o u g h t h i s g r e y h a i r s w i t h s o r r o w t o t h e g r a v e .

A. g e n t l e m a n a t t h e E n g l i s h C l u b a t A l l a h a b a d s e n t m e

to an old Hi ndu Solomon there, who spoke perf ect Eng-

lish, and of whom I inquir ed how many Hindu Christians

t h e r e w e r e i n t h e p l a c e . H e asked me how many E nglish

o f f i c i a l s t h e r e w e r e t h e r e . I a n s w e r e d , " L e t u s s a y t w e n t y . "

"How many servants are allowed each family ?"

h a p s f i v e . " " Fiv e times twenty is one hundred . There

are one hundred Hi ndu C hristians i n Allahabad as long

a s t h o s e f a m i l i e s s t a y . " ' 1 B u t w h a t d o t h e i r p r i e s t s a n d

relations say?" "Not a word . Nobody s upposes their

r e l i g i o n i s c h a n g e d a n y m o r e t h a n t h e i r c o m p l e x i o n . "

The "Cowley Brothers" are connected wi th the Chur ch

of England in a technical way, b ut their miss ion at

Poonah is not, I was told, ad opted by the Chur ch, and

a m o u n t s o n l y t o a s m a l l c o l o n y o f e x t r e m e r i t u a l i s t s g a t h -



NELACANTAH GOREH 8 2 1

ered u nder the headshi p of N elacantah Goreh . I wa s

s o r r y t h a t I c o u l d n o t v i s i t P o o n a h f o r t h e p u r p o s e o f

seeing this man, of whom I had heard muc h from Max

M i i l l e r , b u t I w a s t o l d b y f r i e n d s i n B o m b a y t h a t I w o u l d

s e e i n h i m o n l y a r u i n . H e w a s a m a n o f h i g h c a s t e a n d

o f g r e a t l e a r n i n g , w h o b y c a r e f u l s t u d y b e c a m e d i s s a t i s -

f i e d w i t h h i s H i n d u r e l i g i o n , a n d w e n t t o t h e n e i g h b o u r i n g

m i s s i o n s t a t i o n a n d a s k e d t o b e r e c e i v e d a s a C h r i s t i a n .

I t w a s a m i s s i o n o f i l l i t e r a t e p r e a c h e r s f r o m L o n d o n c o n -

v e n t i c l e s , w h o c o u l d n o t i n t h e l e a s t a p p r e c i a t e t h e g r e a t

man who had c ome into their hands . T h e y s e n t h i m t o

t h e i r m i s s i o n h o u s e i n L o n d o n , w h e r e h e w a s s e t t o d o

t h e d r u d g e r y o f t h e e s t a b l i s h m e n t , - c a r r y i n g b o x e s o f

books and tr acts, and i n the intervals d oing manual

work . A l l t h e b r a i n s o f t h e m i s s i o n i n I n d i a a n d i n

London put together wou ld not have made one brai n

e q u a l t o t h a t o f t h i s p o o r H i n d u s c h o l a r . H e e n d u r e d t h i s

f o r t w o o r t h r e e y e a r s . "One day," said Max Mull er,

" t h e r e e n t e r e d m y l i b r a r y a f i n e - l o o k i n g m a n w h o g a v e

his name as Nelacantah Goreh, and i n attempting to

s p e a k t o m e i n E n g l i s h f a l t e r e d , a n d s a t d o w n a n d w e p t .

I r e c o g n i z e d a t o n c e t h a t I h a d b e f o r e m e a n I n d i a n o f

i m p o r t a n c e , a n d b e g a n t a l k i n g t o h i m i n S a n s c r i t . Onb e a r i n g t h i s , h e a r o s e w i t h s h i n i n g f a c e , a n d c l a s p e d m y

h a n d , a n d a n s w e r i n g m e i n S a n s c r i t , s a i d t h a t h e h a d

b e e n a s l a v e i n L o n d o n , a n d t h a t a t l a s t h i s p a t i e n c e a n d

strength had b roken down . H e had r ead s ome of my

books and sought me out . H i s s t o r y d e e p l y i m p r e s s e d

and even moved me; I c a l l e d m y w i f e , a n d a f t e r t o g e t h e r

m a k i n g o u t t h e w h o l e c a s e , s h e i n s i s t e d t h a t h e s h o u l d

r e m a i n i n o u r h o u s e f o r t h e t i m e . H e was a most modest

m a n , b u t f u l l o f k n o w l e d g e , a n d w e f o u n d h i s c o n v e r s a t i o n

- f o r h e s p o k e f a i r E n g l i s h - v e r y i n t e r e s t i n g . H i s a c -



3 2 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

q u a i n t a n c e w i t h t h e v a r i o u s s c h o o l s o f I n d i a n p h i l o s o p h y

w a s s o g r e a t , a n d h i s p o w e r s o f e x p r e s s i o n s o e x c e l l e n t ,

t h a t I p e r s u a d e d h i m t o w r i t e a t r e a t i s e o n t h e s u b j e c t . I

h a d i n m y l i b r a r y a l l t h e b o o k s t o w h i c h h e m i g h t w i s h t o

r e f e r , a n d w i t h e a g e r n e s s h e s e t h i m s e l f t o t h e .work on a

t a b l e p r o v i d e d i n h i s c h a m b e r . H i s l i t t l e b o o k w a s p u b -

l i s h e d , a n d d u l y v a l u e d b y t h o s e i n t e r e s t e d i n i t s s u b -

j e c t -the Vedic Philosophy-a n d a g o o d l i t e r a r y c a r e e r

s e e m e d t o o p e n b e f o r e h i m , b u t h i s r e l i g i o u s i d e a s a n d

feelings were overwhelming ; p o s s i b l y , t o o , s o m e o f t h e

High Chur chmen had beard of his s tory and got hold of

hi m . A t a n y r a t e , h e d e t e r m i n e d t o r e t u r n t o I n d i a , a n d

the last I heard of him was f rom a fri end w ho recog-

n i z e d h i m i n a m o t i o n l e s s f i g u r e p r o s t r a t e d b e f o r e a c r o s s . "

I h a v e f o l l o w e d p r e t t y c l o s e l y M a x M u l l e r ' s s t a t e m e n t ,

w h i c h I w r o t e d o w n a t t h e t i m e , a n d g a v e a d i s c o u r s e o n

Nel acantah Goreh to my people at South Place . I was

t o l d a t B o m b a y t h a t N e l a c a n t a h G o r e h w a s e n t i r e l y w i t h -

o u t i n f l u e n c e a t P o o n a h o n h i s c o u n t r y m e n , t h a t h e w a s

s t i l l k n e e l i n g b e f o r e t h e c r o s s . A liv ing entombment !

I n t h e g i g a n t i c i m a g e a t E l e p h a n t a o f t h e H i n d u T r i a d ,

P r o f e s s o r P e t e r s o n e n a b l e d m e t o t r a c e t h e i r t r a n s f i g u -

ration into the peaceful grandeur of the Bud dha . T h e

profess or presented me with the sub joined translation

w h i c h h e h a d m a d e f r o m t h e a n c i e n t ' ° S u b l i a i s h i t a v a l i "

( g a r l a n d o f s w e e t s a y i n g s ) o f V a l l a b h a n d e v a : -

Heart, my heart ! Y o u go d o wn into hel l and mount

high above the heavens ; i n e m p t i n e s s o f s p i r i t y o u w a n -

d e r o v e r t h e u n i v e r s e ;bu t not by wanderi ng abroad wil l

you lay hold on God, who is w ithin you, who only c an

g i v e y o u r e s t .

There is this bond b etween me and thee-I a m o f a l l

m e n t h e m o s t m i s e r a b l e , t h o u a r t o f a l l b e i n g s t h e m o s t

m e r c i f u l : i t c a n n o t b e , L o r d , t h a t t h o u w i l t n o t s a v e m e .



THE WALKISHWUR TANK 393

I f I w e r e n o t a g r e a t s i n n e r , i f I w e r e n o t d i s t r a c t e d b y

f e a r , i f I w e r e n o t c o n s u m e d b y p a s s i o n , w h a t n e e d s h o u l d

I h a v e o f a s a v i o u r ?

I n o u r s i c k n e s s H i m s e l f i s t h e p h y s i c i a n a n d H i m s e l f

t h e m e d i c i n e ; i n d a r k n e s s , a l i g h t ; i n r o u g h p l a c e s , a

p a t h ; i n d a n g e r , a p r o t e c t i o n , a n d i n a d v e r s i t y , a b r o t h e r ;

H e i s t h e s h i p t h a t s h a l l b e a r m e s a f e l y o v e r l i f e ' s u n -

s o u n d e d s e a .

J u d g e W e s t , w h o s e s t u d i e s o f a n c i e n t P a r s i l i t e r a t u r e

had helped me i n my " S a c r e d A n t h o l o g y , " w a s d e e p i n

I n d i a n l o r e . H e d r o v e w i t h m e a b o u t t h e c o u n t r y i n h i s

c a r r i a g e a n d t o o k p a i n s t h a t I s h o u l d s e e e v e r y o b j e c t o f

s p e c i a l i n t e r e s t a n d s i g n i f i c a n c e .

Among the plac es we vi si ted was the Walki shwu r

T a n k , a s s o c i a t e d w i t h a b e a u t i f u l p a s s a g e i n t h e" Ra-

mayana . " T h e l a k e i s s a i d t o h a v e s p r u n g u p a t a p o i n t

w h e r e t h e a r r o w o f D a s a r a t h a , f a t h e r o f R a m a , f e l l u p o n

w h a t b e s u p p o s e d t o b e a s t a g , b u t w h i c h w a s S h r a v a n ,

s e e k i n g w a t e r f o r h i s p a r e n t s , a t h i r s t i n t h e i r w a n d e r i n g s .

I t i s i n H i n d u r o m a n c e w h a t f o u n t a i n s c a l l e d f r o m r o c k

o r d e s e r t b y J e w i s h o r C h r i s t i a n s a i n t s a r e i n o t h e r t r a d i -

t i o n s . T h e w a t e r i s s u r r o u n d e d b y t e m p l e s o f r e m a r k a b l e

b e a u t y . T h e r e i s a n a r r o w c l e f t l e a d i n g d o w n t o t h e s e a ,

t h r o u g h w h i c h p l u c k y p i l g r i m s a r e s a i d t o b e d r a w n , a s a

m e a n s o f b e i n g ' 1 b o r n a g a i n "-s i m i l a r r o c k c l e f t s , w i t h

s i m i l a r a s s o c i a t i o n s , b e i n g k n o w n i n E n g l a n d .

I n B o m b a y S h a n k u r a n P a n d i t , e d i t o r o f t h e " R i g V e d a , "

o n e o f t h e n o b l e s t m e n I e v e r m e t , i n v i t e d a c o m p a n y o f

h i s f r i e n d s t o m e e t m e . O r i g i n a l l y f r o m d i f f e r e n t r e l i g i o n s ,

t h e y w e r e e m a n c i p a t e d m i n d s ; b u t n o n e o f t h e m a p p e a r e d

t o d r e a m o f t h e r e l i g i o u s i n s t i t u t i o n s o f I n d i a e v e r b e i n g

changed . T h e y h a d f r a t e r n a l l y f o r m e d t h e i r l i t t l e o a s i s

o f t h o u g h t a n d c u l t u r e i n B o m b a y , a n d t h e v a s t d e s e r t s

a n d j u n g l e s o f s u p e r s t i t i o n w o r k i n g o n b y p r o c e s s e s o f



3 P 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

n a t u r a l e v o l u t i o n , s u p p l i e d t h e m w i t h m a t e r i a l s f o r p s y -

c h o l o g i c a l a n d s o c i a l s t u d i e s . H a v i n g n o n o t i o n t h a t s u c h

p h e n o m e n a w e r e c a u s e d b y a n y s u p e r n a t u r a l p o w e r , t h e i r

r e a s o n w a s n o t h a u n t e d b y d e i t y o r d e m o n . I n t h e s e c o n -

v e r s a t i o n s t h e f e w P a r s i s p r e s e n t w e r e r a t h e r s i l e n t a n d

s h y , t h o u g h i t w a s m y e s p e c i a l d e s i r e t o g e t a t t h e i r i d e a s .

I n C a m b r i d g e , E n g l a n d , I w a s t o l d a n a n e c d o t e o f t h e

R e v . P r o f e s s o r K i n g , a u t h o r o f a n e x c e l l e n t w o r k o n " T h e

G n o s t i c s . " A P a r s i s t u d e n t c o n f i d e d t o h i m t h a t h e h a d

some thought of becoming a Chri stian . The antiqu arian

b e i n g s t r o n g e r t h a n t h e c l e r g y m a n i n t h e p r o f e s s o r , h e

remarked, "There are so many Chri stians in the world,

a n d s o f e w P a r s i s , d o n ' t y o u t h i n k y o u h a d b e t t e r s t a y

where you are?" Unfortunately, however, many of these

P a r s i s h a v e t r a v e l l e d f a r a w a y f r o m t h e n o b l e r e l i g i o n o f

Z o r o a s t e r , - a b o u t a s f a r a s C h r i s t i a n s f r o m t h e s i m i l a r

r e l i g i o n o f J e s u s . F o r J e s u s a n d Z o r o a s t e r a l i k e s a i d o f

the tares, "An enemy hath done this . " I t i s o n l y i n t h e

t r a d i t i o n a l P a r s i c e r e m o n i e s t h a t I c o u l d d i s c o v e r t h a t

m o r a l l y e s s e n t i a l r e c o g n i t i o n o f A h r i m a n w h i c h r e l i e v e d

Z o r o a s t e r ' s d e i t y f r o m r e s p o n s i b i l i t y f o r t h e e v i l s o f

n a t u r e .

B y t h e k i n d n e s s o f a P a r s i g e n t l e m a n I w a s e n a b l e d t o

v i s i t t h e T o w e r s o f S i l e n c e . T h e r e i s a s t r a n g e , a l m o s t

m y s t i c a l , s o l e m n i t y a b o u t t h i s g a r d e n , i n w h i c h a t s u n r i s e

I s t o o d f o r a t i m e a l o n e , g a z i n g a t t h e t o w e r s f r o m t h e

d i s t a n c e o f t h i r t y y a r d s , b e y o n d w h i c h n o n e m u s t p a s s w h o

woul d r eturn to the abode of men . A s s o o n a s a b o d y i s

dead it bec omes the possess ion of Ahriman . A d e m o n

t e n a n t o f h i s o c c u p i e s i t .

A chant reached my ear and pr esently a group of men

i n s n o w - w h i t e g a r m e n t s a n d t u r b a n s e n t e r e d t h e g a t e w a y ,

b e a r i n g t h e i r s h r o u d e d b u r d e n . T h e y p a s s e d s i l e n t l y a n d



AT THE TOWERS OF SILENCE 3 9 5

quic kly towards the towers . Presently there appeared,

twenty y ards behind them, another group i n snow-w hite

r o b e s c h a n t i n g a s t h e y r a p i d l y m o v e d , t h e i r c h a n t b e i n g v e r y

di ffer ent fr om any I had heard about Hindu temples . I t

w a s e n t i r e l y i n m i n o r o r w h i n i n g t o n e s , a n d m u s t h a v e c o m e

fr om some era in w hic h human nature had not yet found

t h e c o n s o l a t i o n r e p r e s e n t e d i n t h e f e a t u r e s o f t h i s f u n e r a l ,

w h i c h r e c a l l e d t h e E g y p t i a n f e s t i v i t i e s o n t h e e n t r a n c e o f a

s o u l i n t o p a r a d i s e . T h e s i n g e r s s p e e d i l y r e t u r n e d t o t h e

garden, where they formed a regular grou p and intoned

t h e i r c o n v e r s a t i o n , o c c a s i o n a l l y b r e a k i n g o u t i n t o a c h a n t .

I was i nformed that they spoke of the vir tues of the

deceased and chanted hymns of the Avesta . I l i s t e n e d ,

g a z i n g a t t h e t o p o f t h e t o w e r , w h e r e o n t h e b o d y h a d b e e n

d e p o s i t e d a n d i t s l i m b s f a s t e n e d , f a c e u p w a r d t o t h e s u n .

A l r e a d y a t i t s c o m i n g a c i r c l e o f v u l t u r e s h a d d e s c e n d e d

t o p e r c h a r o u n d t h e p a r a p e t , w h e r e t h e y s a t p e r f e c t l y s t i l l

d u r i n g t h e p r e s e n c e o f t h e c o r p s e - c a r r i e r s . The moment

w h e n t h e b o d y w a s a b a n d o n e d b y i t s b e a r e r s w a s r e p o r t e d

b y t h e s l o w a n d d i g n i f i e d d i s a p p e a r a n c e o f t h e s e b i r d s ,

w h i c h p r e s e n t l y r o s e i n t o t h e a i r , e a c h b e a r i n g s o m e l a s t

c o n t r i b u t i o n o f a m o r t a l t o t h e i m m o r t a l C o s m o s . Some-

h o w t h i s s c e n e i m p r e s s e d m e m o r e t h a n t h e b u r n i n g p y r e s

of the Ganges . There I f elt how muc h pleasanter than

b u r i a l t o t h e i m a g i n a t i o n i t w o u l d b e t o c o n t e m p l a t e i n

o n e ' s l a s t m o m e n t s a s c e n d i n g i n t h a t f i e r y c h a r i o t t o c l o u d

a n d e t h e r ; h e r e I f e l t t h a t t h e P a r s i h a d a m o r e p o e t i c

p r o s p e c t o f m i n g l i n g i n t h e c u r r e n t s o f o r g a n i c l i f e , s m i l i n g

i n f l o w e r s , s i n g i n g i n t h e t h r o a t s o f b i r d s , s m i l i n g a g a i n i n

h u m a n l o v e l i n e s s .

T h e m o d e r n P a r s i s a r e r a r e l y Z o r o a s t r i a n s . T hey make

m u c h o f t h e a n c i e n t Z o r o a s t r i a n p h r a s e s a n d d e t a i l s a n d

n a m e s , w h i c h , h o w e v e r , o n l y f o r m t h e f r a m e a r o u n d t h e c e n -



326 MY PILGRIMAGE

t r a l a n d e s s e n t i a l p r i n c i p l e o f Z o r o a s t e r - D U A L I S M . P e r -

h a p s i t m i g h t b e s t r i c t l y d e s c r i b e d a s r e l i g i o u s a n d e t h i c a l

D u a l i s m , a s o n e c a n n o t f e e l c e r t a i n t h a t Z o r o a s t e r a p p l i e d

h i s g e n e r a l i z a t i o n t o t h e e n t i r e c o n s t i t u t i o n o f n a t u r e ,

t h o u g h e v e n t h i s i s s u g g e s t e d i n h i s d i v i s i o n o f t h e u n i v e r s e

i n t o " t h e l i v i n g a n d t h e n o t - l i v i n g . " 1 I o n c e h a d a c o n v e r -

s a t i o n a t t h e S o r b o n n e w i t h J a m e s D a r m e s t e t e r , t r a n s l a t o r

o f t h e Z e n d a v e s t a , a n d c o u l d n o t g e t f r o m h i m a n y s a y -

i n g o f Z o r o a s t e r j u s t i f y i n g t h e n o t i o n o f a n o r i g i n a l b e i n g

fr om whom Or muzd and Ahri man -the Good Mind and

the Evi l Mind -b oth descended . T h i s n o t i o n h a s b e e n

i m p o r t e d b y P a r s i t h e o l o g y , a n d I c a n n o t h e l p s u s p e c t i n g

t h a t t h i s i m p o r t a t i o n w a s f r o m t h e m o r e w e s t e r n w o r l d ,

where the idea of an omnipotent Cr eator and su pr eme

R u l e r o f t h e u n i v e r s e w a s e v o l v e d .

U n d e r a l i k e p r e s s u r e f r o m S c i e n c e t h e b e l i e f i n a p e r -

s o n a l S a t a n s t e a d i l y d e c l i n e d , a n d w i t h h i m t h e c o n c e p -

t i o n o f a r e d e e m e r o f m a n k i n d f r o m s a t a n i c t h r a l d o m .

T h e m i n d o f t h e P r o t e s t a n t w o r l d b e c a m e s u b s t a n t i a l l y

d e i s t i c . T h e t i m e f o r e s e e n b y P a u l ( 1 C o r . x v , 2 8 ) h a d

come in a subc onscious spiri tual way,- When all

t h i n g s h a v e b e e n s u b j e c t e d u n t o h i m , t h e n a l s o s h a l l t h e

S o n h i m s e l f b e s u b j e c t e d t o h i m , t h a t G o d m a y b e a l l

i n a l l . " A f o r t i o r i t h e d e v i l w a s s u b j e c t e d , b e c a m e

G o d ' s d e v i l , a n d i t b e i n g n o l o n g e r a d m i s s i b l e t h a t G o d

s h o u l d b e e v e n i n d i r e c t l y t h e a u t h o r o f s i n o r a t e m p t e r ,

S a t a n v i r t u a l l y d i s a p p e a r e d f r o m C h r i s t i a n t h e o l o g y .

B u t w h e n a l l o f t h e s e p r e t e r n a t u r a l p o w e r s h a d f a d e d

o u t o f t h e s c i e n t i f i c a n d p h i l o s o p h i c m i n d , t h e i d e a r e -

m a i n e d o f a C o s m o s , a n d o f i t s c o r o l l a r y , t h e e s s e n t i a l

i " G a y a a n d a j y a a i t i , " t r a n s l a t e d b y H a u g " r e a l i t y a n d u n r e a l i t y . "

T h e t r a n s l a t i o n " l i v i n g a n d n o t - l i v i n g " w a s s e n t m e b y M a x M u l l e r i n

a n s w e r t o m y r e q u e s t f o r a n e x a c t r e n d e r i n g .



ZOROASTRIAN DUALISM 327

u n i t y o f n a t u r e . T h i s M o n i s m i s a l m o s t a s c i e n t i f i c

axiom in England and Ameri ca, b ut on what evid ence

d i d i t r e s t ? W h y s h o u l d t h i n g s a l l c o m e f r o m o n e s u b -

s t a n c e i n s t e a d o f t w o , o r e v e n m o r e ? In readi ng my

f r i e n d H e r b e r t S p e n c e r ' s t h e o r y o f t h e " unknowable f rom

w h i c h a l l t h i n g s p r o c e e d , " I f e l t t h a t t h i s i d e a o f u n i t y

w a s a s e q u e l t o D e i s m , a n d t h e s u r v i v a l o f a s u p e r s t i t i o n .

T h o u g h I w a s n o t a b l e t o s e a r c h n a t u r e s c i e n t i f i c a l l y ,

t h e Z o r o a s t r i a n g e n e r a l i z a t i o n - " the livi ng and the

n o t - l i v i n g " - organic and inorganic - s u p p l i e d a f a i r

p r o v i s i o n a l t h e o r y f o r e t h i c a l s t u d i e s , w h e r e I h a d m o r e

competency . I a l w a y s r e g r e t t h a t i t w a s o n l y a f t e r J o h n

S t u a r t M i l l ' s d e a t h t h a t I d i s c o v e r e d ( i n h i s A u t o b i o -

g r a p h y ) t h a t h e i n c l i n e d t o t h e Z o r o a s t r i a n D u a l i s m . I

was muc h impressed b y the work of Rev . D r . A b b o t , a

l e a r n e d e d u c a t o r i n L o n d o n , " K e r n e l a n d H u s k , " i n w h i c h

h e c o n c e d e s t o r a t i o n a l i s m m o s t o f i t s r e c l a m a t i o n s , b u t

i n s i s t s o n t h e e x i s t e n c e o f a f o r c e o f e v i l i n n a t u r e n o t

d i v i n e l y c o n t r o l l e d . H e c o u l d n o t , b e s a i d , v i s i t t h e p o o r

a n d s u f f e r i n g a n d t e l l t h e m t h e i r a g o n i e s w e r e i n f l i c t e d b y

h i s d e i t y . I t w a s t h i s t r a n s f e r o f t h e i s s u e f r o m t h e o l d

m e t a p h y s i c a l o n e o f m o r a l r e s p o n s i b i l i t y t o t h e t o r t u r e s

i n n a t u r e w h i c h w a s s o s t r i k i n g i n M a s t e r A b b o t ' s b o o k .

Ormuzd (Ahuramazda, the shining one) in the Zend-

a v e s t a i s n o t i n o u r m o d e r n s e n s e a g o d a t a l l ; h e i s a

s o u r c e o f l i g h t t r y i n g t o i n s p i r e m e n a n d w o m e n t o c o n -

t e n d a g a i n s t t h e f o r c e s o f d a r k n e s s ; h e a s k s f o r n o g l o r i -

f i c a t i o n , c l a i m s n o m a j e s t y ; h e i s l o w l y a n d i n p a i n , a n d

t e l l s Z o r o a s t e r t h a t h e i s u n a b l e t o a c h i e v e a n y t h i n g e x -

c e p t t h r o u g h t h e s o u l s ' o f g o o d a n d w i s e m e n a n d w o m e n .

Woman is central in Zoroaster's religion ; the Hol y

S p i r i t i s f e m a l e ( A n a h i t a ) , a n d h e r s i s t e r - s a v i o u r o n e a r t h

i s A r m a i t i . T h e r e a r e n o b e i n g s h i g h e r t h a n t h e s e w o m e n .



8 2 8 MY PILGRIMAGE

A h u r a m a z d a ' s s t r u g g l e w i t h A h r i m a n i s n o t a c e l e s t i a l

o n e - n o t a g a i n s t r e b e l a n g e l s o r g i a n t s - b u t t o r e p r e s s

s a v a g e r y a n d v i o l e n c e o n e a r t h , t o h u m a n i z e t h e p e o p l e ,

d e v e l o p f i n e s o u l s , s o w t h e f i e l d s , a n d m a k e t h e w i l d e r n e s s

b l o s s o m l i k e a r o s e .

O n e a f t e r n o o n w h e n J u d g e W e s t , t h e g r e a t s c h o l a r i n

P a r s i r e l i g i o n a n d l i t e r a t u r e , w a s t a k i n g m e o n a d r i v e

a b o u t a l e a g u e o u t s i d e B o m b a y , i t a p p e a r e d t o m e p r e -

sently that I was maki ng an excurs ion into Eden .

W h e t h e r i t w a s t h e f l o w e r s a n d v i n e s , t h e t r e e s a n d b i r d s ,

o r t h e r i c h e s o f t h i s m a n ' s m i n d l a v i s h e d o n m e w h e n h e

f o u n d t h a t Z o r o a s t e r w a s m y s t a r i n t h e E a s t , i t s e e m e d

a s u f f i c i e n t e n d o f e x i s t e n c e t o b e o u t t h e r e u n d e r t h e s o f t

sky . S u d d e n l y t h e j u d g e s t o p p e d h i s h o r s e , a s s o m e t h i n g

c a u g h t h i s e y e . O n t h e t r u n k o f a l a r g e t r e e s o m e n a t u r a l

f o r m a t i o n s u g g e s t i v e o f t h e p h a l l i c y o n i had been made

r e a l i s t i c b y f r e s h p a i n t . I t s t r u c k m e a s c o a r s e a n d o b -

s c e n e , b u t o n t h i n k i n g i t o v e r a f t e r w a r d s I c o n c l u d e d t h a t

t h e i m p r e s s i o n w a s d u e t o m y o w n p r o v i n c i a l i s m . There

w a s r e a l l y a s u g g e s t i o n o f t h e p r i m i t i v e p u r e i m a g i n a t i o n

t o w h i c h a l l t h i n g s a r e p u r e r e c o g n i z i n g t h e s y m b o l o f

c r e a t i v e l i f e . T h e s a n c t i f i e d s n a k e h a d n o t y e t c r e p t i n t o

t h i s l i t t l e g a r d e n t o m a k e t h e H i n d u E v e a s h a m e d , a n d

t h e r e w e r e s e v e r a l f l o r a l o f f e r i n g s a n d s a c r i f i c i a l c a k e s a t

f o o t o f t h e t r e e .

H o w o f t e n d o t h e o l d B i b l i c a l l e g e n d s o c c u r t o m e i n

I n d i a ! T h e t r e e - a n d - s e r p e n t l e g e n d - s o u n r e l a t e d t o H e -

b r a i s m t h a t i t i s n o t a l l u d e d t o a f t e r w a r d s i n t h e B i b l e

u n t i l P a u l d u g i t u p a s a s t o n e t o t h r o w a t w o m a n k i n d -

f i n d s i t s r i g h t p l a c e i n o r i e n t a l m y t h o l o g y . Cain ( s m i t h )

an d Abe l ( p a s s i n g ) a r e a l l e g o r i c a l r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s o f

t h e g r e a t s c h i s m b e t w e e n t h e t w o w i n g s o f t h e A r y a n r a c e ,-h e a g r i c u l t u r i s t s , f o u n d e r s o f s e t t l e m e n t s a n d c i t i e s ,



E N G LI SH , O R AR Y AN ? 8 2 9

w o r k e r s i n m e t a l , i n P e r s i a , w h e r e b l o o d s a c r i f i c e w a s

a b h o r r e d ; a n d t h e n o m a d s w h o a f t e r v a i n l y b e s i e g i n g t h e

s e t t l e m e n t s d e s c e n d e d o u I n d i a a n d e n s l a v e d i t s t r i b e s

a n d c o n t i n u e d t o o f f e r b l o o d l i k e A b e l u n t i l i t b e c a m e

human blood . T h e r e i s a s i g n i f i c a n t o r i e n t a l t r a d i t i o n

t h a t t h e w i f e f o u n d b y t h e a r t i s a n ( C a i n ) i n t h e l a n d o f

N o d w a s name d" Az u r a . " T h e g e n e r a l n a m e i n P e r s i a

f o r a d i v i n i t y i s " A s u r a , " a n d o f c o u r s e t h e w o r d m e a n s

d e m o n i n I n d i a .

Walking in a crowd ed and rather poor part of Bom-

b a y , i n c o m p a n y w i t h a n i n t e l l i g e n t B a b u , I r e m a r k e d

j u s t b e f o r e u s a l a r g e a n d s h a p e l y w o m a n w h o s e l e g s , b a r e

t o t h e k n e e s , w e r e w h i t e . 4 ° D o Eur opean women also go

b a r e l e g g e d o u t h e r e ? " I a s k e d t h e B a b u . " S h e i s H i n d u , "

h e s a i d ; " t h e w h i t e n e s s i s l e p r o s y . We could not see

t h e w o m a n ' s f a c e , b e i n g b e h i n d h e r , b u t I f e l t c e r t a i n t h a t

t h e w h i t e l e g s , w i t h s o m e p i n k t i n t , w e r e n o t d i s e a s e d . She

w a s c a r r y i n g a b a s k e t ,-r r a t h e r s o m e t h i n g o f t h a t k i n d ,

- a n d h e r d r e s s w a s l i k e t h a t o f o t h e r s a r o u n d h e r , n o n e

o f t h e m s e e m i n g t o n o t i c e h e r p e c u l i a r i t y . One sees now

a n d t h e n a E u r a s i a n o f l i g h t c o m p l e x i o n , b u t m y H i n d u

c o m p a n i o n d i d n o t s u g g e s t t h a t a s a n e x p l a n a t i o n i n t h i s

c a s e , a n d I c o n c l u d e d t h a t i t w a s e i t h e r t h a t o f a n E n g -

l i s h w o m a n o r o f " r e v e r s i o n " t o t h e A r y a n t y p e . A l l o f

t h e g r e a t E u r o p e a n r a c e s a r e d e r i v e d b y e t h n o g r a p h e r s

f r o m t h o s e A r y a n s ( " n o b l e s " ) , b u t b o w d i d t h e l a t t e r

l o s e t h e i r w h i t e c o m p l e x i o n ? I t w a s t o l d o f a M e t h o d i s t

p r e a c h e r , i n s l a v e r y t i m e s , t h a t o n c o m i n g t o h i s S o u t h e r n

c i r c u i t h e s a i d f r o m t h e p u l p i t , " T h i s c o u n t y h a s t h e

r e p u t a t i o n o f b e i n g p a r t i c u l a r l y r e l i g i o u s a n d m o r a l , b u t

w h e r e d i d a l l t h o s e m u l a t t o f a c e s i n t h a t n e g r o g a l l e r y

c o m e f r o m ? " T h o s e s i n g e r s o f t h e V e d a s , c o m e f r o m t h e

p a r a d i s e o f t h e g o d s i n t h e H i m a l a y a s , w h o d e s c r i b e d



3 30 MY PILGRIMAGE

t h e m s e l v e s a s "f a i r , " a n d s u b d u e d t h e

G 1d ar k "

a b o r i g i n e s

of Indi a and ru led them two thous and years, may have

g i v e n r i s e t o t h e l e g e n d t h a t t h e s o n s o f t h e g o d s w e r e

fasci nated b y the daughters of men .' The high-caste

B r a h m a n s a r e o f l i g h t e r c o m p l e x i o n t h a n t h e l o w e r c a s t e s ,

b u t i f t h e i r a n c e s t o r s w e r e e v e r a s w h i t e a s t h e I n d o - G e r -

m a n i c , t h e d a r k p i g m e n t o f t h e a b o r i g i n e s m u s t h a v e b e e n

m u c h m o r e p o t e n t t h a n t h e w h i t e o f t h e i r m a s t e r s.

D e t e r i o r a t i o n i s t h e i n e v i t a b l e f a t e o f t h e c o n q u e r o r s

a n d e n s l a v e r s o f w e a k e r r a c e s . M u c h i s s a i d o f s p r e a d i n g

c i v i l i z a t i o n ; b u t w h a t e v e r c i v i l i z a t i o n - i f t h e r e b e a n y -g o e s i n t o t h e s u b j u g a t e d , g o e s o u t o f t h e c o n q u e r e d . T he

f i n e s t - l o o k i n g a n d t h e f a i r e s t o f t h e d e s c e n d a n t s o f t h e

a n c i e n t A r y a n s a r e n o t t h e B r a h m a n s b u t t h e P a r s i s , a n d

b e f o r e t h e y w e r e d r i v e n o u t o f t h e i r c o u n t r y b y t h e M o s -

l e m s t h e y p r o d u c e d a l i t e r a t u r e s u r p a s s i n g t h a t o f I n d i a .

Although there were among the Parsis in Bombay sev-

e r a l e r u d i t e P a h l a v i s c h o l a r s , - A n k l e s a r i a , M i n o c h i h a r j i ,

P a t e l , -I w a s d i s a p p o i n t e d t o f i n d t h e f e w I m e t -p e r -

s o n a l l y a t t r a c t i v e a s t h e y w e r e - u n a w a r e o f t h e s u r p a s s -

i n g b e a u t y o f t h e i r a n c i e n t r e l i g i o n ! T h a t n o g r e a t P a r s i

wr iter appears may be du e to the fact that the sombre

g e n i u s o f B u d d h a , r e n o u n c i n g t h e w o r l d , i s m o r e a t t r a c t i v e

t o t h e p u r i t a n i c a l s p i r i t o f E n g l a n d t h a n t h e s u n s h i n e o f

Z o r o a s t e r t e l l i n g m e n t h a t h e a v e n i s i n t h e i r o w n h o m e s

a n d f i e l d s .

I e x p e r i e n c e d a s e n s e o f s o c i a l s u f f o c a t i o n i n m e e t i n g

companies of cu ltivated Hi ndu gentlemen without the

1 T h e p a r a d i s e o f t h e g o d s , n o t u n p o e t i c a l l y l o c a t e d i n t h e s h i n i n g h e i g h t s

o n e s e e s a c r o s s t h e p l a i n s o f I n d i a , a r e s t i l l p o p u l a t e d b y t h e t h e o s o p h i c

imagination with Mahatmas, -the "Brothers," - some of whom have

l i v e d h u n d r e d s o r e v e n t h o u s a n d s o f y e a r s 1 I t m u s t h a v e b e e n a n o v e r -

s i g h t o f o u r a d m i r a b l e S i r M a r t i n C o n w a y t h a t i n c l i m b i n g t h e h i g h e s t

o f t h o s e p e a k s h e d i d n o t " i n t e r v i e w " I n d i r a n o r e v e n K o a t h o o m i .



RAMABAI 3 3 1

p r e s e n c e o f l a d i e s . S o m e o f t h e s e s c h o l a r s c o n f e s s e d t o

a s i m i l a r f e e l i n g . They deeply deplored the then recent

c o n v e r s i o n o f R a m a b a i t o C a t h o l i c i s m . T h i s h i g h l y e d u -

cated Hindu lady, having emancipated herself f rom the

z e n a n a , w e n t a b o u t g i v i n g l e c t u r e s t o h e r s e x o n t h e i r

d u t i e s a n d r i g h t f u l p o s i t i o n . H e r l e c t u r e s w e r e a t t e n d e d

by many Hi ndu lad ies , and it appeared that the zenana

g l a c i e r w a s a b o u t t o m e l t u n d e r h e r e l o q u e n c e ; but she

came under the influ ence of Nelacantah Goreh of the

Cowley B rothers, and w ent farther than he desired in

t h e C h r i s t i a n d i r e c t i o n h e p o i n t e d h e r . She went into a

Roman Catholic si sterhood . T h i s e n d e d a l l h e r i n f l u e n c e

a m o n g h e r s i s t e r s a n d h e r o w n r a c e . T he C ° p r o g r e s s i v e "

H i n d u s r e g a r d e d t h i s a s t h e g o i n g o u t o f a s h i n i n g l i g h t

from which they had hoped much . And some of us who

have lis tened to Ramabai i n England and Ameri ca share

i n t h e d i s a p p o i n t m e n t .

I t i s p r o b a b l e t h a t t h e z e n a n a i n I n d i a a n d t h e c o n v e n t s

f o r w o m e n i n E u r o p e a l i k e o r i g i n a t e d i n t h e a g e s o f t r i b a l

w a r s a n d i n v a s i o n s w h e n t h e p r o t e c t i o n o f s a n c t u a r y o r

a s y l u m e s t a b l i s h e d i t s e l f . M y f r i e n d G e n e r a l P i t t R i v e r s

s t u d i e d t h e v a r i o u s c a p s w o r n b y w o m e n i n B r i t t a n y a n d

d i s c o v e r e d t h a t t h e y w e r e a l l v a r i a t i o n s o f t h e n u n ' s c a p . I n

e m e r g i n g f r o m t h e c o n v e n t - a s y l u m t h e w o m e n w o u l d p r o b a -

b l y c o n t i n u e t h i s b a d g e o f p r o t e c t i o n , a s o n b a t t l e f i e l d s a

c r o s s o n t h e a r m p r o t e c t s t h o s e w h o a r e t h e r e f o r s u c c o u r .

Bgt the same evolutionary f orces w hich have drawn the

v a s t m a j o r i t y o f E u r o p e a n w o m e n o u t o f t h e c o n v e n t h a v e

b e e n s t e a d i l y d r a w i n g t h e w o m e n o f I n d i a f r o m t h e z e n a n a .

T h e s t r e e t s o f I n d i a n c i t i e s a l r e a d y s w a r m w i t h w o m e n ,

a n d i f t h e p e a c e f u l r e g i m e o f E n g l i s h r u l e i s n o t o v e r t h r o w n

b y t h e r e c r u d e s c e n t m i l i t a r i s m , t h e z e n a n a s a r e l i k e l y t o

become as antiquated as the convents of F rance . T h e



332 MY PILGRIMAGE

w o m e n s e e n o n t h e s t r e e t s , a n d i n t h e s a c r e d b a t h i n g - t a n k s ,

a n d a t t h e m a n y r e l i g i o u s f e s t i v a l s , a r e b y n o m e a n s a l l o f

t h e " p a r i a h " c l a s s ; t h e m a j o r i t y o f t h e m , t h o u g h n o t s o

r i c h l y d r e s s e d a s t h o s e o f t h e z e n a n a , - j u d g i n g b y t h e

h i g h - c a s t e l a d i e s I s a w a t t h e C a l c u t t a E x p o s i t i o n o n

L a d i e s ' D a y ,-r e q u i t e a s g o o d - l o o k i n g . T h e p r e s e n c e

i n I n d i a o f s o m a n y E n g l i s h f a m i l i e s , w h o s e l a d i e s d r i v e

a b o u t a n d e n j o y t h e m s e l v e s , a n d s h o w t h e m s e l v e s k i n d a n d

c h a r i t a b l e t o t h e i r H i n d u n e i g h b o u r s , i s d o i n g m u c h t o

u n b a r t h e d o o r s o f t h e z e n a n a . T h e s e E n g l i s h l a d i e s

r a r e l y t r y t o " c o n v e r t " t h e i r n e i g h b o u r s ; t h a t i s " bad

form . "

T h e r e w a s a g o o d d e a l o f c o n v e r s a t i o n a m o n g t h e r a -

t i o n a l i s t i c I n d i a n s i n B o m b a y , o f a l l t y p e s , c o n c e r n i n g t h e

deceased Br ahmo leader, Keshub Chunder Sen, apropos

o f t h e p r o p o s a l o f l e a d i n g E n g l i s h s c h o l a r s a n d s t a t e s m e n

t o e r e c t a m o n u m e n t t o h i m . A t t h e r i s k o f s o m e r e i t e r a -

t i o n I m u s t s a y s o m e t h i n g m o r e a b o u t h i m .

I t b e c a m e p l a i n t o m e t h a t B r a h m o i s m ( H i n d u t h e i s m )

h a d p r o v e d a f a i l u r e s o f a r a s t h e h o p e s o f i t s f o u n d e r s

a n d f r i e n d s i n E n g l a n d w e r e c o n c e r n e d . It was i n my

South Place C hapel that Rammohun Roy w as w elcomed

t o E n g l a n d b y i t s e l o q u e n t m i n i s t e r , W . J . F o x , i n 1 8 3 4 .

T h a t w a s a d a w n o f t h e n e w i n t e r e s t o f c u l t u r e d E n g l a n d

i n H i n d u r e l i g i o n . Mr . F o x w a s s u r r o u n d e d b y t h e b e s t

men and women, -H a r r i e t M a r t i n e a u , L e i g h H u n t , J . S .

Mill, El iza and Sarah Flower ( who wrote "Nearer, my

G o d , t o T h e e ! " ) a n d a l l o f t h e l e a d i n g U n i t a r i a n m i n i s -

t e r s. I t w a s i n t h a t h o m a g e t o t h e g r a n d I n d i a n o r a t o r w h o

h a d b e g u n t h e w o r k o f e m a n c i p a t i n g h i s c o u n t r y m e n f r o m

° ~ i d o l a t r y , " a s i t i s c a l l e d , t h a t t h e U n i t a r i a n A s s o c i a t i o n

d r o p p e d t h e t i t l e " C h r i s t i a n " a n d c a l l e d i t s e l f " T h e B r i t -

i s h a n d F o r e i g n U n i t a r i a n A s s o c i a t i o n . " Bu t Rammohun



RAMABAI



KESHUB CHUNDER SEN 3 3 3

Roy w as a man of the worl d- though by no means aworld ly man -and wi shed to fr ee his cou ntrymen from

t h e i r e c s t a t i c s u p e r s t i t i o n a b o u t a b s o r p t i o n i n d e i t y . H e

w a s n o t m u c h i n t e r e s t e d i n C h r i s t i a n i t y b u t h a d f o r m e d a

c o n c e p t i o n o f J e s u s w h i c h l e d h i m t o p r o t e s t a g a i n s t t h e

E u r o p e a n p a i n t i n g s r e p r e s e n t i n g h i m ( J e s u s ) a s a w h i t e

ma n . K e s h u b C h u n d e r S e n b a d p e r h a p s h e a r d o f t h i s . H e

w r o t e m e a l e t t e r f r o m I n d i a s a y i n g t h a t a f r i e n d o f h i s

t h e r e h a d d i s c o v e r e d t h a t m o s t o f t h e s t o r y o f C h r i s t w a s

d e r i v e d f r o m I n d i a , a n d a s k e d i f I c o u l d s e c u r e a L o n d o n

p u b l i s h e r f o r s u c h a w o r k . I r e p l i e d t h a t t h e r e s e m b l a n c e s

b e t w e e n t h e n a r r a t i v e s i n t h e N e w T e s t a m e n t a n d s e v e r a l

in Hindu legends bad been much dis c u s s ed in Eur ope

a n d A m e r i c a , b u t a l e a r n e d a n d a b l y w r i t t e n b o o k o f t h a t

kind would surely f ind a publi sher in London . K e s h u b

was s uc h an egoist that he could not learn anything .

When he vis ited England he began his d isc ours es in my

C h a p e l , a n d w i t h s e v e r a l o f h i s c o m p a n i o n s w a s t h e g u e s t

of our beloved chapel treasu rer, George Hick son, at

Earlswood House, Highbury . H i s f i r s t d i s c o u r s e a s w e l l

a s h i s c o n v e r s a t i o n r e v e a l e d t o m e t h a t h e h a d c o m e t o

England to teach, not to be taught, whic h was what he

needed . A t t h e g r e a t r e c e p t i o n g i v e n h i m i n S t . J a m e s ' s

Hall, w here many dis tinguis hed men and women were

p r e s e n t , h e a p p e a l e d t o t h e m p a s s i o n a t e l y , " Come unto

m e ! " He u s e d t h e p h r a s e r e p e a t e d l y , a n d t h e i m p r e s s i o n

was not pleasant . I cannot help thinki ng that he held

some vague messianic theory of his miss ion . Professor

Newman told me that some of his f ollower s once knelt

a n d w o r s h i p p e d h i m , a n d w h e n c r i t i c i s e d b e c a u s e h e d i d

n o t p r e v e n t t h e m h e s a i d t h a t h e d i d n o t l i k e t o s t o p t h e

f l o w o f d e v o u t r e l i g i o u s f e e l i n g . H e u s e d t h e w o r d B h a k t i ,

I t h i n k , i n t h e s e n s e o f d i v i n e e x a l t a t i o n , t h e b e n e f i t o f



3 3 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

w h i c h d i d n o t d e p e n d o n i t s c a u s e o r t h e o b j e c t t o w h i c h

i t w a s d i r e c t e d . I h a d s o m e h o p e s o f h i m w h e n h e l e d h i s

p e o p l e i n t o t h e m o v e m e n t f o r t h e s u p p r e s s i o n o f i n f a n t

marriages, but i n the midst of it all he gale his own

i n f a n t d a u g h t e r i n m a r r i a g e t o a l i t t l e p e r s o n a g e o f t i t l e ,

a n d t h a t w a s f a t a l t o h i s g e n e r a l i n f l u e n c e . Max Muller ,

Sir Wil liam Hunter, and others f ound excus es for him,

b u t h i s c o n g r e g a t i o n i n C a l c u t t a d i m i n i s h e d , a n d i t i s

probable that the severe judgments of H indu reformers

u n b a l a n c e d h i s m i n d a n d l e d t o t h a t a s c e t i c f a s t i n g u n d e r

which, as I have already s tated, his lar ge frame su c-

c u m b e d . I c ontribu ted something for his monument at

Calcutta because Sir Will iam Hunter thought it would

p r o d u c e a g o o d g e n e r a l e f f e c t t h e r e , a n d a l s o b e c a u s e t h e

Brabmo movement was i n its ori gin connected w ith my

London chap el .

B u t w i t h n o n e b u t k i n d f e e l i n g s t o w a r d s K e s h u b C h u n -

d e r S e n p e r s o n a l l y I h a d s o m e f e a r s a b o u t t h e e f f e c t o n

young Hindus of seeing a monument erected chiefly by

i n f l u e n t i a l E n g l i s h m e n t o t h e l e a d e r o f a s e c t , - a n d t h a t

sect stric tly fenced off by creed and usages from the

unorganized f raternity of sc holars i n India reared in

d i f f e r e n t r e l i g i o n s . I d r e a d e d , t o o , t h e p u r i t a n i c a l l e a v e n .

Mozoomdar s poke of the theatres wi th the horror that

o u r o l d M e t h o d i s t s h a d m a d e m e f a m i l i a r w i t h , a n d s a i d

t h e H i n d u a c t r e s s e s w e r e b a d c h a r a c t e r s . T h i s I k n e w t o

b e m e r e p r e j u d i c e a g a i n s t i n s t i t u t i o n s i n C a l c u t t a w h i c h

w e r e d o i n g m u c h f o r c i v i l i z a t i o n a n d h a p p i n e s s .

S i m i l a r f e e l i n g s e x i s t e v e n a m o n g m a n y t h e i s t s i n E n g -

land . I o n c e g a v e a S u n d a y l e c t u r e a t S t . G e o r g e ' s H a l l ,

L o n d o n , s u r r o u n d e d b y a s c e n i c l a n d s c a p e r e m a i n i n g f r o m

s o m e p l a y g i v e n t h e r e d u r i n g t h e p r e v i o u s w e e k , a n d M i s s

Fr ances Power Cobb e wrote me that though she was p re-



BHAKTI 3 3 5

s e n t s h e c o u l d n o t e n j o y i t b e c a u s e o f h e r d i s t r e s s a t s e e i n g

a n y t h i n g s u g g e s t i v e o f a t h e a t r e .

Some Englis h wri ter complai ned of Renan that he not

only made Jesus a man, b ut a Fr enchman ! T h e c r i t i c i s m ,

h o w e v e r , w a s i n s p i r e d b y t h e f a c t t h a t i n G r e a t B r i t a i n

Je s u s has been made a Pu r i tan Engl i s hman . Renan's

" L i f e o f J e s u s , " w h a t e v e r i t s f a u l t s , r e v e a l e d i n J e s u s

w i t a n d h u m o u r , i m p u l s i v e n e s s , e n t h u s i a s m o f h u m a n i t y ,

p o e t i c g e n i u s , a p p r e c i a t i o n o f f e m i n i n e b e a u t y . A r e t h e s e

e x c l u s i v e l y F r e n c h ?

In tr uth, that ancient antagonism b etween the hard

a s c e t i c s a c r i f i c i a l s p i r i t a n d t h e g e n i a l h u m a n a n d g e n t l e -

m a n l y s p i r i t , w h i c h s o l o n g m a d e t h e c o n f l i c t b e t w e e n t h e

Jahvist and the Solomonic schools of Jerus alem, keeps

t h e m f i g h t i n g t h e i r e t e r n a l d u e l i n E u r o p e a n d A m e r i c a ,

a n d g r a d u a l l y e x t e n d i n g t h e i r w a r o v e r t h e w o r l d .

T h e m o d e r n e n t h u s i a s m f o r B u d d h a , d e s p i t e h i s a t h e i s m ,

i s b e c a u s e o f h i s s u p p o s e d m o r a l a s c e t i c i s m a n d P u r i t a n -

i s m . I t i s a c c o m p a n i e d b y a s o r t o f r a g e a g a i n s t K r i s h n a

becaus e of his s upposed Solomonic dis regard of conven-

t i o n a l i t i e s , h i s m y t h i c a l s i x t e e n h u n d r e d w i v e s , h i s f l u t e ,

a n d t h e u n p a r d o n a b l e s i m i l a r i t y o f h i s b i r t h - l e g e n d w i t h

t h a t o f J e s u s .

T h e r e i s n o d o u b t t h a t l a t e r e f f o r t s t o g i v e m y s t i c a l

i n t e r p r e t a t i o n t o t h e y o u t h f u l p r a n k s o f K r i s h n a , a f t e r h i s

d e i f i c a t i o n , d e v e l o p e d a r e l i g i o n o f B h a k t i (Faith) which

must be morally d angerous . Professor Wil son, a great

o r i e n t a l i s t , s t a t e s t h a t i n t h e P u r a n a s t h e d o c t r i n e o f F a i t h

r e n d e r s C o n d u c t w h o l l y i m m a t e r i a l .

It matters not how atroci ous a s inner a man may be,

i f h e p a i n t s h i s f a c e , h i s b r e a s t , h i s a r m s , w i t h c e r t a i n

s e c t a r i a l m a r k s , o r , w h i c h i s b e t t e r , i f h e b r a n d s h i s s k i n

permanently w ith them with a hot ir on stamp ; i f h e i s



336 MY PILGRIMAGE

c o n s t a n t l y c h a n t i n g h y m n s i n h o n o r o f V i s h n u ; o r , w h a t i s

e q u a l l y e f f i c a c i o u s , i f h e s p e n d s h o u r s i n t h e s i m p l e r e i t -

e r a t i o n o f h i s n a m e o r n a m e s ; i f h e d i e w i t h t h e w o r d

H a r i o r I R a m a o r K r i s h n a o n h i s l i p s , a n d t h e t h o u g h t

o f h i m i n h i s m i n d , h e m a y h a v e l i v e d a m o n s t e r o f i n i -

q u i t y , - h e i s c e r t a i n o f h e a v e n .

W i l s o n t h o u g h t t h a t i n t h i s p a r t i c u l a r o f t h e v i t a l i m -

p o r t a n c e o f f a i t h t h e V i s h n u - K r i s h n a w o r s h i p w a s " i n d i -

r e c t l y " i n f l u e n c e d b y t h e d i f f u s i o n o f C h r i s t i a n i t y . J o hn

M. R o b e r t s o n , M . P . , c o m m e n t i n g o n t h e p a r a g r a p h j u s t

q u o t e d f r o m W i l s o n , s a y s , " I t c a n n o t b e d e n i e d t h a t a l l

t h i s b e a r s a v e r y c l o s e r e s e m b l a n c e t o t h e p r a c t i c a l a p p l i -

c a t i o n s o f t h e C h r i s t i a n d o c t r i n e o f f a i t h i n E u r o p e a n

h i s t o r y , a n d t h a t t h a t i s o f a l l C h r i s t i a n d o c t r i n e s t h e o n e

w h i c h m a y w i t h m o s t p l a u s i b i l i t y b e h e l d t o h a v e o r i g i -

n a t e d , i n E u r o p e , w i t h t h e N e w T e s t a m e n t . " 1 R o b e r t s o n ,

h o w e v e r , f i n d s t h e d o c t r i n e i m p l i c i t l y g i v e n i n t h e B h a -

g a v a t G i t a , w h i c h h e r e g a r d s a s t o o e a r l y t o h a v e b e e n

i n f l u e n c e d b y C h r i s t i a n i t y . The date of that work is

v a r i o u s l y p l a c e d b e t w e e n t h e s e c o n d c e n t u r y b e f o r e , a n d

t h e s e c o n d a f t e r , o u r e r a . I t i s d o u b t f u l w h e t h e r t h e d o c -

t r i n e o f s a l v a t i o n b y f a i t h c o u l d h a v e b e e n c a r r i e d f r o m

P a l e s t i n e t o I n d i a w i t h o u t c o n n e c t i n g w i t h i t t h e d o c -

t r i n e o f v i c a r i o u s m a r t y r d o m . T h e r e i s n o s u g g e s t i o n o f

t h a t k i n d i n t h e l i f e o r d e a t h o f K r i s h n a . I n d e e d , o n e m a y

a l m o s t s u s p e c t a r e p u d i a t i o n o f t h a t d o c t r i n e i n t h e c o m -

m o n p l a c e d e a t h s o f K r i s h n a a n d B u d d h a -t h e f o r m e r b y

a n a c c i d e n t a l w o u n d i n t h e h e e l , t h e l a t t e r f r o m a n i l l n e s s

b r o u g h t o n b y e a t i n g p o r k .

I n t h e b e g i n n i n g o f t h e s i x t e e n t h c e n t u r y , C h a i t a n y a ,

recognized by Keshub Chunder Sen as "the Prophet of

Nud dea," reviv ed Vishnui sm, and has had wors hippers

1 C h r i s t a n d K r i s h n a , p . 1 1 7 .



VISHNU-KRISHNA SECTS 8 8 7

e v e n t o t h i s d a y w h o b e l i e v e h i m t o h a v e b e e n a n i n c a r -

nation of Vis hnu . I t w a s h e w h o g a v e e x a l t a t i o n t o t h e

d i v i n e n a m e , b y t h e u t t e r a n c e o f w h i c h h e i s s a i d t o h a v e

w o r k e d m i r a c l e s . H i s f o l l o w e r s d i s c a r d a l l l u x u r i e s , t o u c h

n o t m e a t o r w i n e , l i v e o n t h e b a r e n e c e s s a r i e s o f l i f e , d i s -

r e g a r d c a s t e , a n d c o n s i d e r m e n d i c a n c y f o r t h e p u r p o s e o f

e n t i r e s e l f - d e d i c a t i o n t o G o d h o n o u r a b l e . A f t e r h i s d e a t h

( 1 5 2 7 ) a s e c t a r o s e a m o n g h i s f o l l o w e r s w h o a s s e r t e d t h e

spi ritu al independence of women . They s eem to be not

v e r y d i f f e r e n t f r o m o u r A m e r i c a n S h a k e r s . 1 1 I n t h e i r m o -

n a s t i c e n c l o s u r e s , " s a y s S i r W i l l i a m H u n t e r , " m a l e a n d

f e m a l e c e n o b i t e s l i v e i n c e l i b a c y ,-he women shaving

t h e i r h e a d s , w i t h t h e e x c e p t i o n o f a s i n g l e l o c k o f h a i r . The

t w o s e x e s c h a n t t o g e t h e r t h e p r a i s e s o f V i s h n u a n d C h a i -

tanya i n hymn and s olemn dance . B u t t h e r e a l l y i m p o r -

t a n t d o c t r i n e o f t h e s e c t i s t h e i r r e c o g n i t i o n o f t h e v a l u e

o f w o m e n a s i n s t r u c t o r s o f t h e o u t s i d e f e m a l e c o m m u n i t y .

F o r l o n g t h e y w e r e t h e o n l y t e a c h e r s a d m i t t e d i n t o t h e

zenanas of good f amilies in Bengal . F i f t y y e a r s a g o ,

t h e y h a d e f f e c t e d a c h a n g e f o r t h e b e t t e r i n t h e s t a t e o f

f e m a l e e d u c a t i o n ; a n d t h e v a l u e o f s u c h i n s t r u c t i o n w a s

a s s i g n e d a s t h e c a u s e o f t h e s e c t h a v i n g s p r e a d i n C a l c u t t a . "

O u t o f t h e s e m o v e m e n t s a r o s e i n t h e s a m e c e n t u r y t h e

r a t h e r a r i s t o c r a t i c K r i s h n a i s m o f w h i c h V a l l a b h a - S w a m i

w a s t h e a p o s t l e . " T h e s p e c i a l o b j e c t o f h i s h o m a g e , " s a y s

S i r W i l l i a m H u n t e r , ' ° w a s V i s h n u i n h i s p a s t o r a l i n c a r -

nation, in whic h he took the form of the di vi ne youth

K r i s h n a , a n d l e d a n A r c a d i a n l i f e i n t h e f o r e s t . Shady

bowers , lovely women, exqui site viands, and everything

t h a t a p p e a l s t o t h e l u s c i o u s s e n s u o u s n e s s o f a t r o p i c a l

race are mingled in his w orship . H i s d a i l y r i t u a l c o n -

s i s t s o f e i g h t s e r v i c e s , i n w h i c h K r i s h n a ' s i m a g e , a s a

b e a u t i f u l b o y , i s d e l i c a t e l y b a t h e d , a n o i n t e d w i t h e s s e n c e s ,



3 3 8 MY PILGRIMAGE

s p l e n d i d l y a t t i r e d , a n d s u m p t u o u s l y f e d. " 11 T h i s s e c t p e r -

f o r m s i t s d e v o t i o n s a r r a y e d i n c o s t l y a p p a r e l , a n o i n t e d

w i t h o i l , a n d p e r f u m e d w i t h c a m p h o r o r s a n d a l - w o o d . I t

s e e k s i t s c o n v e r t s n o t a m o n g w e a v e r s , o r l e a t h e r - d r e s s e r s ,

or barb ers, b ut among wealthy b ankers and merchants,

who look upon li fe as a thing to be enjoyed, and upon

p i l g r i m a g e a s a h o l i d a y e x c u r s i o n , o r a n o p p o r t u n i t y f o r

t r a d e . "

Keshub Chund er Sen spok e to me a good deal w hen he

w a s i n L o n d o n o f t h e i l l - t r e a t m e n t o f t h e H i n d u s b y t h e

a v e r a g e u n o f f i c i a l E n g l i s h b u s i n e s s m e n r e s i d e n t i n I n d i a .

H e g a v e m e i n s t a n c e s i n w h i c h s o m e o f t h e m w e r e s t r u c k

and many insu lted . In my jour neyings between Calcu tta

a n d B o m b a y , i n f i r s t - c l a s s c a r r i a g e s , I w a s c o n s t a n t l y

t h r o w n w i t h s u c h r e s i d e n t s , a n d t h e b u r d e n o f t h e i r t a l k

w a s a n g r y a b u s e o f t h e H o n . M r . I l b e r t f o r h i s p r o p o s a l t o

combine native wi th white jurymen i n t r i a l s w h e r e p e r -

s o n s o f b o t h r a c e s w e r e e q u a l l y i n v o l v e d . T h e i r t o n e w a s

m u c h t h e s a m e a s t h a t w i t h w h i c h s o m e o f t h e S o u t h e r n -

e r s i n A m e r i c a d e n o u n c e t h e p r o v i s i o n s f o r n e g r o e q u a l i t y .

What I have said about inappr eciation of the great

a d v a n t a g e s o f E n g l i s h r u l e t o I n d i a i s q u i t e c o n s i s t e n t

w i t h p o s s i b l e d i s a d v a n t a g e s t o t h e B r i t i s h c o l o n i s t s . I t i s

h a r d l y p o s s i b l e f o r a w h i t e r a c e t o d w e l l w i t h a r a c e o f c o l -

o u r e d s u b j e c t s w i t h o u t d e t e r i o r a t i o n . I remember hearing

a n e t h n o g r a p h i c a l l e c t u r e b y P r o f e s s o r H u x l e y , i n w h i c h ,

whil e pointing out on a map the smallness of G reat

B r i t a i n i n c o n t r a s t w i t h I n d i a , h e s a i d c a s u a l l y , " That

t h i s s m a l l i s l a n d s h o u l d r u l e t h a t v a s t c o u n t r y , w i t h m a n y

t i m e s i t s p o p u l a t i o n , i s t h e m o s t s t r i k i n g i n s t a n c e I k n o w

o f t h e p o w e r o f m i n d o v e r m a t t e r . " I t w a s t h e o n l y t i m e

I ever heard Hu xley s peak with the slightest jingoist

a c c e n t , a n d I d o u b t e d t h a t t h e r u l e r w a s n o t a l t o g e t h e r



ENGLISH RULE IN INDIA 3 3 9

" mind " n o r t h e r u l e d " m a t t e r . " I f o u n d i n I n d i a t h a t

t h e p e a c e f u l r u l e o f E n g l a n d t h e r e w a s i n d e e d d u e t o t h e

good sense of England i n sendi ng out many eminent

s c h o l a r s a n d m e n o f s c i e n c e t o f i l l t h e c h i e f o f f i c e s , a n d

c o m p a r a t i v e l y f e w m i l i t a r y m e n a n d s o l d i e r s . The young

m e n p a s s i n g t h r o u g h E n g l i s h u n i v e r s i t i e s r e v e r e d H u x l e y

a n d t h e s c i e n t i f i c m e n a n d t h e s c h o l a r s s e n t o u t o f t h e m ,

a n d y e t t h e H i n d u s g e n e r a l l y d i d n o t l o v e t h e E n g l i s h

among them, nor their government . T h e r e w e r e h e r e d i -

t a r y t r a d i t i o n s o f w r o n g s a n d c r u e l t i e s t r a n s m i t t e d f r o m

t h e a g e s b e f o r e s u c h s c h o l a r s a s M a x M u l l e r a n d o t h e r s

had awakened the western world to the splendour s of

o r i e n t a l l i t e r a t u r e . '

I n I n d i a I s t e a d i l y r e a l i z e d n o t o n l y t h a t t h e t r u e r e l i -

g i o n w a s t h a t o f Z o r o a s t e r , b u t t h a t f u n d a m e n t a l l y t h e o n l y

p r a c t i c a b l e r e l i g i o n i s t h e s t r u g g l e o f G o o d a g a i n s t E v i l .

T h a t i s w h a t e v e r y b o d y i s n e c e s s a r i l y d o i n g . Why then do

I f e e l d i s a p p o i n t e d a b o u t t h e s e m a s s e s o f t h e i g n o r a n t i n

' " B l e s s e d a r e t h e l o w l y , f o r t h e y s h a l l i n h e r i t t h e e a r t h . " S u b l i m e p a r a -

d o x , w h i c h y o u n g a m b i t i o n m a y d e s p i s e b u t g r a y e x p e r i e n c e k n o w s t r u e I

T h e c o n q u e r o r s o f t h e e a r t h d o n o t r e a l l y p o s s e s s t h e e a r t h ; i t p o s s e s s e s

them . G i b b o n s m i l e s a t L i v y , w h o , h e s a y s , t r i e s t o p e r s u a d e u s t h a t R o m e

c o n q u e r e d t h e w o r l d i n s e l f - d e f e n c e . B u t s u c h a r e t h e c o n d i t i o n s . When-

e v e r a n a t i o n m a k e s a c o n q u e s t , i t m u s t l i v e u p t o i t o r d o w n t o i t ; m u s t

s u r r o u n d e v e r y s u b j u g a t e d c o u n t r y w i t h a M o n r o e d o c t r i n e , e v e r e x p a n d i n g

t i l l i t i n v o l v e s h o s t i l i t y t o t h e w h o l e w o r l d a n d l o s s o f a l l t h a t f r e e - w i l l ,

w h i c h a l o n e c a n r e a l l y i n h e r i t t h e e a r t h , a n d e n j o y i t . D a n i e l W e b s t e r ' s

r h e t o r i c w a s s p l e n d i d w h e n i n t h e S e n a t e h e s p o k e o f G r e a t B r i t a i n a s

t h a t " P o w e r w h o s e m o r n i n g d r a m - b e a t , t r a v e l l i n g w i t h t h e s u n a n d k e e p -

i n g t i m e w i t h t h e s t a r s , e n c i r c l e s t h e e a r t h w i t h o n e c o n t i n u o u s s t r a i n o f

t h e m a r t i a l a i r s o f E n g l a n d . " B u t w h a t h a s i t p r o f i t e d E n g l a n d t o e n c i r c l e

t h e w h o l e w o r l d a n d l o s e i t s r e a l s o u l , i t s f r e e d o m , s o t h a t i t h a s h a d t o

f i g h t n e a r l y e v e r y r a c e , - H i n d u , R u s s i a n , A m e r i c a n , F r e n c h , C h i n e s e ,

S p a n i s h , E g y p t i a n , K a f f i r , B o e r , T i b e t a n , - i n s e l f - d e f e n c e ; every war

b e i n g o n e f o r w h i c h E n g l a n d n o w h a n g s i t s h e a d f o r s h a m e . - F r o m m y

o r a t i o n a t D i c k i n s o n C o l l e g e , J u n e 6 , 1 9 0 6 .



3 4 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

I n d i a ? I s u p p o s e t h a t u n c o n s c i o u s l y I e x p e c t e d t o s e e t h e

g r e a t e p i c s r e f l e c t e d i n t h e i r r e l i g i o u s f e s t i v a l s i n s t e a d o f

s a c r i f i c i a l s u p e r s t i t i o n s . B u t a f t e r a l l , w e r e n o t t h e s e p o o r

p e o p l e s t r u g g l i n g a g a i n s t E v i l ,-i s e a s e , h u n g e r , d e a t h ,

-i n t h e o n l y w a y t h e y c o u l d ? T h e y a r e n o t p h y s i c i a n s , n o r

l e a r n e d , n o r w e a l t h y , n o r e v e n v o t e r s ; a r e t h e y t h e n t o

g i v e u p e v e n t h e f e e l i n g t h a t t h e i r h u m b l e a l t a r o f f e r i n g s

and pray ers may b e doing some li ttle to help the good

s i d e ? A n d w h e n I h e s i t a t e a b o u t t h i s , a n d f e a r t h a t w h e n

Evi ls ar e resis ted as persons -Satans, Ahrimans-h e

r e s i s t a n c e i s i n e f f e c t u a l , b e c a u s e u n s c i e n t i f i c , t h e o v e r -

whelming sense of Fate confounds me . A population of

3 0 0 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0 w h o s e m o s t i m p e r a t i v e r e l i g i o u s d u t y i s t o

m u l t i p l y , m u s t i n e v i t a b l y a c t i n o r g a n i c a l l y . I t c a n n o t h a v e

t h e f r e e t h o u g h t o r f r e e a g e n c y o f a n i n d i v i d u a l .

T h o s e l i t t l e b o y s I s a w i n t h e C a l c u t t a E x p o s i t i o n w e a v -

i n g w i t h s h u t t l e s o b e d i e n t t o a t u n e s u n g t o t h e m -ach

n o t e s i g n i f y i n g a t h r e a d c o l o u r-e r e o n l y t h e m o r e c o m -

p l e x c e r e b r a l p a r t o f t h e l o o m . W h a t , t h e n , i s t h i s v a s t

a u t o m a t i c l o o m c a l l e d I n d i a , - w h a t i s i t w e a v i n g ?

E n g l i s h t h r e a d s . E v e n t h e m i s s i o n a r i e s , w h o d r e a d t h e

Darwi nians and s ceptics at home, are cooperating with

t h e m i n I n d i a . F o r t h e l o g i c w i t h w h i c h t h e y e x p o s e t h e

H i nd u " id ol s " is a boomerang recoiling on their own

C h r i s t i a n i d o l s , a n d t h e r e s u l t i s t h a t t h e I n d i a n m i n d i s

s t e a d i l y b e c o m i n g i r r e l i g i o u s . A n d i t i s t h e n e w s o n g o f

the mind educated by E ngland which spi ns and increas-

i n g l y d i r e c t s t h e c h i l d r e n w i t h t h e i r s h u t t l e s . Bu t the

c h i l d r e n w i l l g o o n w i t h t h e i r o l d h a p p y f e s t i v a l s u n t i l

Englis h wealth and k nowledge give them happier ones .

W h i l e I w a s w o r k i n g a t m y o w n l i t t l e l o o m , a n d w e a v -

ing an ideal Indi a with Zendavestan threads, a fi ne

sc holar i n London, Samuel Laing, M . P ., w ho had made



SAMUEL LAIN G



SAMUEL LAING 3 4 1

h i s p i l g r i m a g e i n I n d i a l o n g b e f o r e , w a s d e v e l o p i n g a l i k e

c o n c l u s i o n . I cannot leave Bombay w ithout inserting

here some trib ute to that admirab le man and author,

w h o m I u s e d t o m e e t i n t h e h o u s e o f m y d e a r f r i e n d s M r .

and Mrs . C h a r l e s C . M a c r a e ( s h e w a s h i s d a u g h t e r ) , a n d

w i t h w h a t d e l i g h t I f o u n d o n m y r e t u r n t o E n g l a n d t h a t

a s c i e n t i f i c Z o r o a s t e r h a d a p p e a r e d i n h i m . I n h i s m a r -

v e l l o u s w o r k , " A M o d e r n Z o r o a s t r i a n " ( t h e m o s t i m p o r -

a n t r e l i g i o u s v o l u m e w r i t t e n i n m y t i m e ) , h e m a i n t a i n s

t h a t C h r i s t i a n i t y h a s b e c o m e p r a c t i c a l l y Z o r o a s t r i a n , w i t h

C h r i s t f o r t h e i r O r m u z d . H is grand w ork-long out of

p r i n t , I f e a r , -r i s e s f i n a l l y i n t o s o n g : -

H a i l 1 g r a c i o u s O r m u z d , a u t h o r o f a l l g o o d ,

S p i r i t o f b e a u t y , p u r i t y , a n d l i g h t ;

T e a c h m e l i k e t h e e t o h a t e d a r k d e e d s o f n i g h t ,

A n d b a t t l e e v e r w i t h t h e h e l l i s h b r o o d

O f A h r i m a n , d r e a d p r i n c e o f e v i l m o o d-F a t h e r o f l i e s , u n c l e a n n e s s , e n v i o u s s p i t e ,

T h e f t s , m u r d e r s , s e n s u a l s i n s t h a t s h u n t h e l i g h t ,

U n r e a s o n , u g l i n e s s , a n d f a n c i e s l e w d -G r a n t m e , b r i g h t O r m u z d , i n t h y r a n k s t o s t a n d ,

A v a l i a n t s o l d i e r f a i t h f u l t o t h e e n d ;

S o w h e n I l e a v e t h i s l i f e ' s f a m i l i a r s t r a n d ,

Bound f or the great Unknown, shall I commend

M y s o u l , i f s o u l s u r v i v e , i n t o t h y h a n d -

F e a r l e s s o f f a t e i f t h o u t h i n e a i d w i l l l e n d .

T h e i d e a l t e m p l e i n B o m b a y i s t h e J a i n . I w a s t o l d

t h a t t h e r e a r e o n l y h a l f a m i l l i o n J a i n s i n I n d i a , b u t

t h e y a r e w e a l t h y a n d e d u c a t e d , a n d e r e c t t h e i r b e a u t i f u l

t e m p l e s -w h i c h a l l m a y f r e e l y e n t e r - e a c h i n t h e c e n -

t r e o f a f l o w e r g a r d e n . The " i m a g e s " a r e w o r k s o f a r t .

T h e s t a t u e r e s e m b l i n g B u d d h a i s n o t r e c l i n i n g n o r s l u m -

b e r i n g i n a n y N i r v a n a , b u t u p r i g h t a n d o p e n - e y e d . There

i s f a i r P a d m a v a , 1 1 L a d y o f t h e L i l y , " a n d h e r h u s b a n d



3 4 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

P a r s a n a t h a - b o t h p u r e l y h u m a n . O n a g l a s s d o o r s t a i n e d

w i t h p i c t u r e s w e r e s i d e b y s i d e Y a s o d a n u r s i n g K r i s h n a

a n d M a r y n u r s i n g J e s u s . W i t h o u t p r i e s t h o o d , w i t h o u t

s a c r i f i c e s , t h e J a i n ' s d a i l y w o r s h i p i s t o g a t h e r f l o w e r s

f r o m t h e t e m p l e - g a r d e n , o r f r o m h i s o w n , a n d s t r e w

t h e m b e f o r e t h o s e f o r m s -man and w oman-s a y i ng " S a lu t a t i oo t h e s a i n t s , t o t h e p u r e b e i n g s , t o t h e

s a g e s , t o t h e d e v o u t i n a l l t h e w o r l d ! "



C H APT E R XVI

H o m e w a r d -The Flyi ng Dutchman-Ou r ` Lady of the Peki ng' - A

l e t t e r o f J o h n B r i g h t - " C h i n e s e G o r d o n " i n t h e S o u d a n a n d i n P a l e s t i n e

-Pilgri mage to the Krup p Gu n Works at Ess en, Germany -Address

a t D i c k i n s o n C o l l e g e , P e n n s y l v a n i a .

AN D n ow H o me w a r d

Every week the "Bombay Times" prints a list

o f t h e d e a t h s t h e r e , a n d u s u a l l y s e v e r a l c a u s e d b y c h o l e r a .

T h e s e a r e g e n e r a l l y i l l - f e d a n d p o o r l y h o u s e d n a t i v e s ,

a n d t h e l i s t c a u s e s n o a l a r m . Bu t while I w as there an

E n g l i s h g e n t l e m a n d i e d o f c h o l e r a , a n d t h i s w a s s o u n l i k e

t h e s n o b b i s h c h a r a c t e r o f D e a t h t h a t t h e e v e n t w a s t e l e -

graphed to Eu rope, and after w e left Aden none on our

homeward b ound ship w as permitted to land in Egypt .

E v e n t h e m a i l s w e r e n o t a d m i t t e d , a n d a n u r g e n t d i s p a t c h

w a s s e n t t o t h e c a n a l b a n k i n a b o t t l e . My hope of pass -

i n g a w e e k i n P a l e s t i n e w a s t h u s d e f e a t e d .

T h e m o s t i n t e r e s t i n g a c q u a i n t a n c e I m a d e o n t h e v o y -

age was a Zanzib ar work man, -the bl ackes t man I ever

saw and one of the most fi nely for med . He generall y

s t r i p p e d t o t h e w a i s t f o r h i s w o r k , a n d h i s h e a d , p r o f i l e ,

f e a t u r e s w e r e a s r e f i n e d a n d b e a u t i f u l a s h i s b u s t . H e

s p o k e E n g l i s h , a n d I u s e d t o g o t o t h e f o r e p a r t o f t h e

ship b efore sunri se to talk with him when he was not

much occupied . F rom him I learned s ome of the Zanzi-

b a r f o l k - l o r e . O n e m o r n i n g h e t o l d m e t h a t i f I h a d . o n l y

r i s e n a l i t t l e s o o n e r I m i g h t h a v e s e e n t h e F l y i n g D u t c h -

ma n . H e h a d s e e n i t s d a r k s a i l o n t h e h o r i z o n , b u t i t

n e v e r r e m a i n s v i s i b l e f o r m o r e t h a n a f e w m o m e n t s . So



$44 MY PILGRIMAGE

long lasts the Promethean legend of C aptain Ber nard

F o k k e , w h o d e f i e d t h e C r e a t o r b y p l a t i n g h i s s h i p w i t h

s h e e t - i r o n , w h i c h i n s t e a d o f t h e r e b y s i n k i n g w a s t h e s w i f t -

e s t s h i p a f l o a t . I n d e e d t o t h i s d a y s t e a m a n d s o l i d i r o n

s h i p s c a n n o t o v e r t a k e t h e h e a v e n - d e f y i n g c r a f t which

m u s t s p e e d w i t h o u t r e a c h i n g a n y p o r t t i l l J u d g m e n t D a y !

B e t w e e n A d e n a n d V e n i c e t h e r e w a s i n o u r f a i r l y l a r g e

company only one woman,- Mrs . F r a s e r o f M e l b o u r n e .

T h e r e w a s n o t e v e n a f e m a l e s e r v a n t o n t h e P e k i n g . T he

a t t r a c t i v e a n d l i t e r a r y y o u n g l a d y h a d t h e w i t t o a p p r e c i a t e

t h e h u m o r o u s a s p e c t s o f t h e s i t u a t i o n , - o n e o f t h e s e b e i n g

t h e f a c t t h a t s h e b a d r e c e n t l y o b t a i n e d a d i v o r c e . She

w a s f a m i l i a r w i t h t h e w o r k s o f W . D . H o w e l l s a n d n e e d e d

n o e x p l a n a t i o n o f m y a l l u s i o n t o t ° The Lady of the

A r o o s t o o k . " H a d H o w e l l s b e e n a l o n g h e m i g h t h a v e w r i t -

t e n a v a r i a n t o f t h e s t o r y i n w h i c h t h e l a d y i n s t e a d o f

b e i n g t a k e n u n d e r c h i v a l r o u s p r o t e c t i o n o f s o m e y o u t h s

w o u l d e x t e n d a s o r t o f p r o t e c t i o n t o t h e d e s o l a t e b a c h e l o r s

w h o f o r m o r e t h a n a w e e k c o u l d s e e n o f e m i n i n e f a c e b u t

h e r s . N o q u e e n i n h i s t o r y e v e r r e i g n e d o v e r h e r r e a l m s o

m o d e s t l y , g r a c e f u l l y , a n d g r a c i o u s l y a s t h i s f a i r y o u n g

d a m e o v e r h e r f l o a t i n g e m p i r e . We were quarantined in

t h e g u l f o f V e n i c e f o u r d a y s - n i n e t y - e i g h t h o u r s , - a n d

s o r i g i d l y t h a t w h e n t h e c a p t a i n o p e n e d t h e p i g e o n - h o u s e

t o l e t t h e b i r d s e n j o y t h e a i r , o f f i c e r s c a m e out near

e n o u g h t o c o m m a n d t h a t t h e y s h o u l d b e h o u s e d , l e s t o n e

s h o u l d t r a v e l t o V e n i c e ( m i l e s a w a y ) a n d c a r r y t h e e b o l -

e r a !

In Venice, C arnival w as b eginning, and the street

s c e n e s v i v i d l y r e m i n d e d m e o f G e o r g e E l i o t ' s d e s c r i p t i o n s

in "Romola ." When I reached Paris the Mard i- gras

m i r t h a n d g r o t e s q u e r i e w e r e i n f u l l g l o r y . On Wednes-

d a y ( M a r c h 1 3 , 1 8 8 4 ) 1 w a s a t m y h o m e i n B e d f o r d P a r k .



, , CHINESE GORDON" 345

On my r etur n to England I found the nation pro-

foundly moved by the death of G eneral G ordon in the

Soudan . T h e m i n g l e d g r i e f a n d r a g e w a s s o m e t h i n g l i k e

that which fi lled New E ngland when John Brown was

e x e c u t e d i n V i r g i n i a , b u t a s G o r d o n w a s s l a i n i n f a i r

c o m b a t w h i l e i n v a d i n g a f o r e i g n c o u n t r y t h e r e w a s n o n e

t o r a g e a g a i n s t e x c e p t t h e g o v e r n m e n t . The Prime Min-

i s t e r ( G l a d s t o n e ) h a d t o d e f e n d h i m s e l f a s w e l l a s h e

c o u l d i n a c a s e w h e r e t h e a t t a c k w a s a n i m a t e d s o l e l y b y a

r e c r u d e s c e n c e o f t h e c r u s a d i n g s p i r i t . " C h i n e s e G o r d o n , "

a s h e h a s b e e n c a l l e d , w a s n o w s p o k e n o f b y t h e n a t i o n a l

c l e r g y a s " O u r C h r i s t i a n S o l d i e r ." The wr ath of the

c l e r i c a l a r i s t o c r a c y , r e i n f o r c e d b y t h a t o f t h e Q u e e n h e r -

s e l f , s e e m e d a b o u t t o f l o o d t h e S o u d a n w i t h a d e l u g e o f

b l o o d , a n d t h e o n e g r e a t v o i c e w h i c h i n e v e r y s u c h c r i s i s

h a d p l e a d e d f o r p e a c e-h a t o f J o h n B r i g h t -w a s s i l e n t .

A f t e r a g o o d d e a l o f c o n s u l t a t i o n w i t h h i s i n f l u e n t i a l

f r i e n d s , 1 r e s o l v e d t o w r i t e t o J o h n B r i g h t . My twenty

y e a r s o f f r i e n d s h i p w i t h h i m w a s a s u f f i c i e n t w a r r a n t f o r

d o i n g s o , 4 n d i n a d d i t i o n I h a d b e e n e n g a g e d b y s o m e

o f h i s a d m i r e r s i n A m e r i c a t o c o n v e y t o h i m a n i n v i -

t a t i o n t o v i s i t o u r c o u n t r y . S o t h e l e t t e r w a s w r i t t e n a n d

t h e f o l l o w i n g a n s w e r r e t u r n e d : -

O x z A s a , R O C H D ALE , A p r i l 9 , ' 8 5 .

MY DEAR MR. C O N W A Y ,-I a m v e r y s e n s i b l e o f t h e

k i n d n e s s o f y o u r l e t t e r . I t i s n o t l i k e l y t h a t I s h a l l v i s i t

y o u r c o u n t r y I a m t o o f a r o n i n l i f e f o r s u c h a n a d v e n -

t u r e .

A s t o t h e m a i n p u r p o r t o f y o u r l e t t e r I c o u l d w r i t e

m u c h , b u t s h a l l o n l y w r i t e l i t t l e . I l e f t t h e G o v e r n m e n t

n e a r l y t h r e e y e a r s a g o , g i v i n g u p w h a t m e n p r i z e g r e a t l y ,

and separating myself f rom Mr . G l a d s t o n e , w i t h w h o m

I had acted f or many years . This w as my protest

a g a i n s t t h e b o m b a r d m e n t o f A l e x a n d r i a . I r e t i r e d f r o m



3 46 MY PILGRIMAGE

the Government, and ab stained fr om any f ur ther open

condemnation of my late colleagues . The outrage at

Alexandria has b een followed b y other b lunders and

o t h e r c r i m e s . I h a v e l o o k e d o n w i t h g r i e f a n d s h a m e -b u t i n p u b l i c I h a v e s a i d n o t h i n g o r a l m o s t n o t h i n g .

W h e n w a r i s o n t h e r e i s l i t t l e u s e i n p r o t e s t i n g o r c o n -

demning -I di sc overed that thirty years ago, duri ng

the Cr imean war . I f I c o u l d h a v e d o n e a n y t h i n g , i t c o u l d

o n l y h a v e b e e n d o n e b y t h e o v e r t h r o w o f t h e G o v e r n m e n t

-a n d t h e i r s u c c e s s o r s m u s t h a v e b e e n t h o s e w h o s e p o l i c y

was and i s w orse than that of those they followed - a

p o l i c y w h i c h , i f i n s i s t e d u p o n , w o u l d p r o b a b l y h a v e i n -

v o l v e d a w a r w i t h F r a n c e . V i e w i n g a l l t h e c i r c u m s t a n c e s

o f t h e c a s e , I h a v e t h o u g h t i t w a s r i g h t f o r m e t o b e s i l e n t .

M y p o s i t i o n i n r e g a r d t o t h i s u n h a p p y b u s i n e s s i s p e c u l i a r ,

a n d I m u s t f o l l o w s u c h l i g h t a s I h a v e . I c o u l d n o t s p e a k

upon it wi thout the use of language suc h as I am not

wi lli ng to utter when dealing wi th the mistakes of my

late colleagues, and of my pers onal fr iends . M y lan-

guage and purpose would be misu nderstood, and wr ong

m o t i v e s b e a t t r i b u t e d t o m e . One member of the Govern-

m e n t i s m y c o l l e a g u e i n t h e r e p r e s e n t a t i o n o f B i r m i n g -

h am ; i t w o u l d b e p a i n f u l f o r m e t o d i s c u s s t h e q u e s t i o n

before our Constituency, and I have spoken on other

topics - p a r t l y o n F o r e i g n p o l i c y , b u t w i t h o u t d i r e c t r e -

f e r e n c e t o t h e E g y p t i a n m u d d l e .

You s peak of the good people you know w ho ask why

I a m s i l e n t . I c a n n o t n o w g i v e t h e m a n a n s w e r-f t h e y

c o u l d t r u s t m e i n s o g r e a t a q u e s t i o n , p e r h a p s t h e y w i l l

t r u s t m e e v e n t h o u g h I a m s i l e n t w h e n t h e y w o u l d e x p e c t

me to speak . I f I h a v e a n y i n f l u e n c e w i t h t h e G o v e r n -

m e n t i t h a s n o t b e e n w i t h h e l d , b u t I h a v e n o t a p p e a r e d

i n p u b l i c a s t h e i r a c c u s e r . I b e l i e v e , l o o k i n g t o t h e h o m e

i n t e r e s t s o f t h e C o u n t r y , a n d t o i t s f o r e i g n i n t e r e s t s a l s o

I h a v e d o n e w h a t w a s m y d u t y i n t h i s d i f f i c u l t c a s e . W e

w a n t a t h o r o u g h c h a n g e i n o u r n o t i o n s o f f o r e i g n p o l i c y

-w h e n i t w i l l c o m e I k n o w n o t . P e r h a p s s o m e g r e a t c a -

t a s t r o p h e i s a p p r o a c h i n g . I s o m e t i m e s s u s p e c t i t . E a r t h -

q u a k e s c o m e w i t h o u t n o i s e o f f o o t s t e p . E u r o p e i s n e a r l y

ready for one, and i ts nations, we amongst them, may

n e e d a l e s s o n .



[ L e t t e r f r o m J o h n B r i g h t ]

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R O C H D A LE .

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GORDON'S MISSION 347

F o r g i v e t h i s u n s a t i s f a c t o r y r e p l y t o y o u r v e r y f r i e n d l y

l e t t e r . I f e e l s u r e y o u w i l l n o t m i s u n d e r s t a n d m e .

I a m ,

V e r y r e s p e c t f u l l y y o u r s ,

JOHN BRIGHT.

M e a n w h i l e f r o m t h e F o r e i g n O f f i c e , a n d f r o m G o r d o n ' s

f r i e n d , W . H . M a l l o c k , a n d f r o m G o r d o n H a k e , h i s r e l a -

tive, the facts and d ocuments c oncerning Gordon and

h i s m i s s i o n f l o o d e d t h e p a p e r s a n d r e v i e w s , r e v e a l i n g t h e

s t r a n g e s t c h a r a c t e r a n d w i l d e s t c o n d u c t k n o w n t o m o d e r n

h i s t o r y .

Gord on seemed to have passed much time in devout

s a u n t e r i n g s i n t h e " " H o l y L a n d , " d i s c o v e r i n g s a c r e d l o c a l -

i t i e s . F o r i n s t a n c e , a h i l l n e a r t h e M o u n t o f O l i v e s a p -

p e a r i n g s o m e t h i n g l i k e a h u m a n f o r m , i t s s k u l l - l i k e k n o l l

r e v e a l s t h e e x a c t s p o t o f t h e C r u c i f i x i o n . G ordon had

m a d e f r i e n d s w i t h t h e S o u d a n e s e a n d r e p e a t e d l y d e c l a r e d

E g y p t i a n r u l e t h e r e t o b e " t h e c u r s e o f t h e c o u n t r y . "

A s h e a l s o k n e w t h e i r l a n g u a g e , b e a p p e a r e d t h e ' b e s t m a n

t o s e n d o n a m i s s i o n , - n o t m i l i t a r y , b u t f o r p e r s u a s i o n

a n d n e g o t i a t i o n ,-o s e c u r e r e l e a s e o f t h e E g y p t i a n s h e l d

by the Mahdi .

G o r d o n a c c e p t e d t h e m i s s i o n a n d t h e i n s t r u c t i o n s w i t h

perfect agreement, but w hen he arriv ed in E gypt the

K h e d i v e h e l d u p b e f o r e h i m a d i v i n e m i s s i o n , a n d J a h v i s t

i n s t r u c t i o n s . H e w a s t o c o m m a n d t h e h o s t s o f t h e E g y p -

t i a n s , s u b d u e t h e f a l s e M e s s i a h ( M a h d i ) a n d p r e p a r e t h e

w a y o f t h e T r u e M e s s i a h . G o r d o n ' s d i a r y c o n t a i n s e n t r i e s

t h a t o n e m i g h t e x p e c t i n a d i a r y o f P e t e r t h e H e r m i t. ' ° I

take this prophecy as my own" (Is a . x i x ) : "And i t

s h a l l b e f o r a s i g n a n d f o r a w i t n e s s u n t o t h e L o r d o f

h o s t s i n t h e l a n d o f E g y p t ." When the Mahdi has s ent

h i m a w a r n i n g , G o r d o n w r i t e s t h e w o r d a n d i n t e r r o g a t i o n



348 MY PILGRIMAGE

"Armage d d on?" One need only r ead the passage in

R e v e l a t i o n x v , 1 2 - 1 6 , t o r e a l i z e t h e f a t a l f a n a t i c i s m o f

t h a t w o r d " A r m a g e d d o n " i n s u c h a c r i s i s . It was Mahdi

meeting Mahdi . B u t t h e s e r e v e l a t i o n s s e e m e d o n l y t o i n -

c r e a s e E n g l i s h e n t h u s i a s m f o r " O u r C h r i s t i a n S o l d i e r , "

a n d I r e a c h e d t h e c o n c l u s i o n t h a t i f o n e s c r a t c h e s a n E n g -

l i s h m a n w i t h a M o s l e m s p e a r h e w i l l f i n d a c r u s a d e r .

A b o u t t h i s t i m e I w a s r e q u e s t e d b y m y f r i e n d t h e l a t e

J o s e p h H a r p e r t o v i s i t E s s e n , a n d w r i t e f o r " H a r p e r ' s

M a g a z i n e " a n a c c o u n t o f t h e K r u p p w o r k s . I t w a s a r a t h e r

d r o l l c o m m i s s i o n f o r a P e a c e m a n l i k e m y s e l f , b u t i t w a s

n o t i n a p p r o p r i a t e e x c e p t b y r e a s o n o f m y d e f i c i e n c y i n t h e

s c i e n c e o f g u n s . I f i n d t h a t a t t h a t t i m e I w a s s t i l l u n d e r

t h e d o m i n i o n o f t h e b e l i e f i n s o m e u n i v e r s a l l a w o f p r o -

g r e s s. T h a t i m p l i e s o f c o u r s e t h a t t h e w o r k o f d e s t r u c -

t i o n h a s i t s l e g i t i m a t e m o r a l p l a c e . I n I n d i a , w h o s e m o s t

p o p u l a r d e i t y i s S i v a t h e D e s t r o y e r , I j o u r n e y e d f o r m a n y

w e e k s a m i d p e a c e f u l h o m e s a n d v i l l a g e s , c h a r m e d b y t h e

f a c t t h a t o v e r t h o s e i n n u m e r a b l e p e o p l e n o c l o u d o f w a r

a p p e a r e d . A n d n o w m y f i r s t p i l g r i m a g e w a s t o t h e l a n d

o f E u r o p e a n S i v a , w e l l r e p r e s e n t e d b y V o n M o l t k e , t h i s

most accompli shed c ommander of E ur ope, whom I had

s e e n a t t h e h e a d o f h i s a r m i e s i n F r a n c e , a n d w h o b a d

j u s t a n s w e r e d a P e a c e A s s o c i a t i o n : " Your dream is not

m e r e l y u n p r a c t i c a l , i t i s n o t e v e n b e a u t i f u l . " At that

t i m e I w a s n a i v e e n o u g h t o b e l i e v e t h a t w a r h a d c r u s h e d

s l a v e r y i n A m e r i c a a n d C x s a r i s m i n F r a n c e .

S o a t E s s e n , w i t h s i x t e e n t h o u s a n d p e o p l e d w e l l i n g i n

an ideal town created by the Work s, I saw the huge

g u n s a s t h e g l i t t e r i n g v e r t e b r a o f m o n s t e r s a u r i a n s p r e -

p a r i n g t h e w a y f o r a h u m a n d e v e l o p m e n t a t t a i n a b l e o n l y

t h r o u g h t h e i r e x t i n c t i o n . T h e y a r e , I t h o u g h t , r u d e p i o -

n e e r s o f a c i v i l i z a t i o n w h o s e p e a c e f u l a b o d e s s h a l l b e p a v e d



THE KRUPP GUN WORKS 3 4 9

w i t h t h e i r f o s s i l b o n e s . A s I w r i t e n o w , l o n g a f t e r t h e s e

i l l u s i v e r a i n b o w s h a v e v a n i s h e d , I m a y r e p o r t m y p i l g r i m -

a g e t o t h e K r u p p W o r k s a s v i s i b l e t h r o u g h t h e v i s t a o f

m y l a t e r p i l g r i m a g e i n t i m e . This may be done by the

f o l l o w i n g e x t r a c t f r o m a n a d d r e s s g i v e n a t D i c k i n s o n

C o l l e g e ( C a r l i s l e , P a . ) : -

H e n c e t h a t d r e a d d o u b l e n e s s o f n a t i o n s , e a c h s e n d i n g

o u t s w e e t w a t e r s a n d b i t t e r . T h i r t y - f i v e y e a r s ago my

d u t i e s a s a j o u r n a l i s t c a r r i e d m e t o b a t t l e f i e l d s o f F r a n c e ,

where men were mowed d own lik e grass and vi llages

bu rned and desolated . S o m e t i m e a f t e r , l i k e d u t i e s

c a r r i e d m e t o t h e t o w n o f E s s e n , i n G e r m a n y , s e a t o f t h e

K r u p p W o r k s , t h e l a r g e s t f o r g e o f a r m s i n t h e w o r l d .

T h e r e I s a w t w o k i n d s o f p e r f e c t i o n . O n e w a s t h e t o w n o f

the Krupp workpeople . S o c i a l i s t i c r e f o r m e r s , - B a b e u f ,

F o u r i e r , S t . Simon, Robert Ow en, -have for mor e than

a c e n t u r y b e e n t r y i n g i n v a i n t o b u i l d i d e a l c o m m u n i t i e s ,

a n d s u c h h a v e b e e n s u c c e s s f u l l y b u i l t o n l y i n r o m a n c e s .

B u t w h e r e s o c i a l e n t h u s i a s t s h a v e f a i l e d t h e K r u p p G u n

W o r k s h a v e s u c c e e d e d . E x p l o r i n g t h o s e b e a u t i f u l h a b i t a -

t i o n s w i t h h a p p y w i v e s a n d c h i l d r e n , t h e l i b r a r y , r e a d -

i n g - r o o m , s c h o o l , b a t h s , c h u r c h , g y m n a s i u m , p l a y g r o u n d ,

h o s p i t a l , I w a l k e d t h r o u g h a v e r i t a b l e U t o p i a , - a l l t h e

v i s i o n a r y r o m a n c e s b e c o m e r e a l . Then I s aw the other

p e r f e c t i o n ,-h e e x q u i s i t e e v o l u t i o n b y w h i c h t h e i r o n o r e

p a s s e d f r o m f u r n a c e t o f u r n a c e , f o r g e t o f o r g e , - announ-

c i n g t o t h e s c i e n t i f i c r e f i n e r b y t i n t s o f f l a m e , r e d , y e l l o w ,

b l u e , w h e n i t w a s r e a d y t o a d v a n c e a n o t h e r s t a g e t o w a r d s

t h a t p u r i t y o f h e a r t w h e n i t b e c o m e s B e s s e m e r s t e e l , a n d

t h e n a t t a i n t o t a l s a n c t i f i c a t i o n a s a g u n a b l e t o c a r r y a

s h e l l f o r m i l e s . T h e y e n t r u s t e d m e t o a s c i e n t i f i c m a n a g e r

w h o k n e w E n g l i s h , a n d r e v e a l e d c e r t a i n t h i n g s I w a s n o t

t o p r i n t ,-e c r e t s o f s t a t e . H e s h o w e d m e a t r a n s c e n d e n t

g u n , - a b e a u t y . T h i s d a i n t y c r e a t u r e w a s s u r r o u n d e d b y

a r t i s t i c s h e l l s , a s V e n u s m i g h t b e b y C u p i d s , e a c h s h e l l

w i t h a f a c e o r d i a l , o n w h i c h a h a n d i s t u r n e d t o a f i g u r e .

T h e s h e l l f l i e s , a n d a t t h e e x a c t s e c o n d p o i n t e d t o b y t h e

d i a l h a n d i n f a l l i b l y e x p l o d e s . When I saw the array of

t h e s e p e r f e c t g u n s , w i t h t h e i r f a m i l i e s o f s h e l l s n e s t l i n g



850 MY PILGRIMAGE

a r o u n d t h e m , a n d t h e w o r k m e n ' s p r e t t y a n d w e l l - d r e s s e d

c h i l d r e n p l a y i n g a r o u n d , t h e t o u c h i n g s c e n e r e c a l l e d t h e

e a r l y w e s t e r n e p i t a p h o f f ° Jeames Hambric k, w ho was

s h o t w i t h a r e v o l v e r , o n e o f t h e o l d - f a s h i o n e d k i n d , b r a s s -

m o u n t e d , a n d o f s u c h i s t h e k i n g d o m o f H e a v e n . "



CHAPTER XVII

S E E K I N G T H E B E LO VE D

FR O M t h e d e c k o f o u r q u a r a n t i n e d s h i p i n t h e w a t e r s

o f E g y p t , g a z i n g t o w a r d s t h e c o n s e c r a t e d l a n d I w a s

f o r b i d d e n t o e n t e r , I a s k e d m y s e l f t h e r e a s o n o f m y k e e n

d i s a p p o i n t m e n t . Was it a r eal sentiment about t h e

1 1 b l e s s e d a c r e s " w h i c h t h e f e e t o f J e s u s h a d t r o d , o r w a s

i t c u r i o s i t y , t h a t c a u s e d m y l o n g i n g ? S o m e t h i n g o f b o t h

p e r h a p s , b u t o n e t h i n g s e e m e d c e r t a i n , - m y p i l g r i m a g e

t o t h e W i s e M e n o f t h e E a s t c o u l d n o t b e c o n t i n u e d i n

P a l e s t i n e . What Wis e Men were there?

B u t w h a t I h a d s e e n a n d l e a r n e d i n A s i a i n s p i r e d m e

w i t h a f e e l i n g t h a t I h a d n o t y e t c o m e c l o s e e n o u g h f o r

pers onal recogniti on to the wise man to whom C h r i s -

t e n d o m w a s c r y i n g L o r d , L o r d , w h i l e d o i n g t h e r e v e r s e

o f w h a t h e s a i d . I had k nown him as t h e c r u c i f i e d , h a d

r e c o g n i z e d h i m i n t h e o p p r e s s e d s l a v e , a n d i n m a n y a

s u f f e r i n g C a u s e , b u t m y o c c a s i o n a l t e n t a t i v e e s s a y s a b o u t

t h e i n d i v i d u a l J e s u s -h e f l e s h - a n d - b l o o d m a n -s t i l l

l e f t h i m a s o r t o f f i g u r e - h e a d . T h e r e r e m a i n e d t h e n a p i l -

g r i m a g e o f e x p l o r a t i o n t o b e m a d e , a n d I s e t t l e d m y s e l f

d o w n t o m a k e i t o n s h i p b o a r d d u r i n g o u r w e e k ( n e a r l y )

o f q u a r a n t i n e . B u t t h a t e x p l o r a t i o n h a s c o n t i n u e d t o t h e

d a y w h e n t h i s v o l u m e g o e s t o p r e s s , a n d f r o m n o t e s w r i t -

t e n f r o m t i m e t o t i m e d u r i n g t w e n t y y e a r s a r e s e l e c t e d

t h o s e c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s f i n a l c h a p t e r . It is in my own

m i n d s o m e j u s t i f i c a t i o n o f i t s i n c l u s i o n h e r e t h a t i t p a r t l y

g r e w o u t o f m y o r i e n t a l p i l g r i m a g e .



3 5 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

I n t h e t a l e f r o m t h e A r a b i c G o s p e l w i t h w h i c h I s e t

o u t ( P r o l e g o m e n a ) , t h e Z o r o a s t r i a n p i l g r i m s w h o h a d f o l -

l o w e d a s t a r t i l l i t t o o k h u m a n s h a p e , t h e n l e d t h e m b a c k

t o t h e i r o w n c o u n t r y , w e r e a s k e d b y t h e p r i n c e s what

t h e y h a d b r o u g h t b a c k . T h e y d i s p l a y e d a c h i l d ' s s w a d -

d l i n g - b a n d g i v e n t h e m b y i t s m o t h e r , a n d w h i c h t h e i r

s a c r e d f i r e c o u l d n o t c o n s u m e . T h i s t h e y p r e s s e d t o t h e i r

l i p s a n d t o t h e i r e y e s. My own pri nces-my learned mas-

t e r s-w i l l f i n d t h a t i n t h e p r e c e d i n g p a g e s I h a v e b r o u g h t

b a c k l i t t l e t h a t i s n e w , u n l e s s e r r o r s a b o u t n a m e s a n d

H i n d u p h i l o s o p h i e s . But I have brought back a sw ad-

d ~ i n g - b a n d t o o ! Y o s a d a u s e d i t f o r t h e i n f a n t K r i s h n a ,

and Maia f or the babe Bu dd ha, and B athsheba for

Solomon (Wi sd om vi i, 4 : "I was nursed in swaddling

c l o t h e s , a n d t h a t w i t h c a r e s " ) ; a n d w h e n , a f t e r p r e s s i n g

i t t o m y l i p s a n d e y e s , I l o o k e d o v e r t o w a r d s P a l e s t i n e ,

and saw in vi si on Lady Mary and her babe (as I had

s e e n t h e m i n t h e J a i n t e m p l e a n d t h e P o s i t i v i s t t e m p l e ) ,

t h e s w a d d l i n g - b a n d r e v e a l e d i t s e l f a s a s y m b o l o f r e l i g i o n

i n i t s l o v i n g , u n s o p h i s t i c a t e d i n f a n c y . Fear may b e the

m o t h e r o f D e v o t i o n , b u t L o v e i s t h e m o t h e r o f t h a t r e a l

f a i t h i n a l l h e a r t s w h i c h n o f i r e -n o r m e n a c e s o f f i r e-can consume . A m i d a l l t h e m e t a p h y s i c a l a n d c e r e m o n i a l

c i n d e r s o f o r i e n t a l r e l i g i o n s , a n d t h e f i e r c e d e m o n s p l a -

c a t e d i n t e m p l e s b u t n o t w o r s h i p p e d , t h e h u m b l e h o m e s

know only the tender li ght shed f rom sw eet faces on

t h e i r w a l l s , - m o t h e r s , l o v e r s , w i v e s , c h i l d r e n , h e r o i c m e n ,

- e a c h p i c t u r e w i t h i t s s i m p l e t a l e o r i d y l .

F r o m m y s w a d d l i n g - b a n d p o i n t o f v i e w p o l y t h e i s m h a s

i t s a d v a n t a g e s . "To worship a god not your own is

m e r e f l a t t e r y , " s a y s C o n f u c i u s . I t i s n o f l a t t e r y o f t h e

g o d b u t o f s o m e d e v o t e e o f h i s w h o w i l l h a t e y o u o r k i l l

y o u i f y o u d o n o t s a c r i f i c e y o u r s u p r e m e i d e a l t o h i s i d o l .



LOVE PERSONIFIED 3 5 3

A c o l l e c t i v i s t d e i t y h a s f o r m e n o r e l i g i o u s m e a n i n g a t

a l l . "Do you believe in a God? " W hi c h ? O r m u z d ,

B r a h m a , J u p i t e r , J e h o v a h , A l l a h , T r i n i t y , T r i a d , M u m b o -

J u m bo? The m in d ma y be " g o d - f e a r i n g , " b u t t h e h e a r t

b e l i e v e s i n t h e b e l o v e d ; a u n i v e r s a l " G o d " w o u l d b e a s

u n r e a l a s a u n i v e r s a l s w e e t h e a r t . T h a t w h i c h t h e h e a r t

l o v e s i t e n s h r i n e s , a n d t o m e i t i s t h e l o v i n g , u n s e l f i s h ,

g i v i n g , b e a u t i f u l s i d e o f n a t u r e ; i t i s L o v e , n o t o m n i p o -

t e n t , b u t f e m i n i n e . S h o u l d I p e r s o n i f y i t , t h e r e w o u l d b e

i n m y v i s i o n a c o m p o s i t e p i c t u r e o f t h e l o v e l y a n d b e l o v e d

f a c e s t h a t w a t c h e d o v e r m y i n f a n c y , a n d s m i l e d o n m e

t h r o u g h l i f e , a n d r e n d e r e d i t i m p o s s i b l e f o r m y h e a r t t o

b o w a t a n y s h r i n e o f W i l l o r O m n i p o t e n c e . To Power I

o f f e r n o p r a y e r , b u t t o a b e l o v e d w o m a n I h a v e o f t e n s a i d ,

a n d s a i d b e s i d e h e r d e a t h b e d , " F o r g i v e m e m y s i n s ! "

" My mother," said J esus , - " My mother the Hol y

S p i r i t b o r e m e u p t o t h e g r e a t m o u n t a i n T a b o r . "

T h e r e i s p e r h a p s s o m e m y s t i c a l s i g n i f i c a n c e i n t h e

f a i t h t h a t t h e p e r f e c t m a n i s b o r n o f w o m a n a l o n e .

I n 1 8 7 6 I p r i n t e d a c o l l e c t i o n o f d i s c o u r s e s i n L o n d o n ,

u n d e r t h e t i t l e , " C h r i s t i a n i t y , " t h e m o t t o b e n e a t h b e i n g ,

W h o s o w i l l b e g r e a t , l e t h i m s e r v e . T h e s i x s e c t i o n s w e r e

headed : Its Morning Star ; I t s Da wn ; I t s D a y ; I t s

D e c l i n e ; I t s A f t e r g l o w ; The Morr ow . In 1877 I ap-

p e n d e d i t t o m y v o l u m e e n t i t l e d , " I d o l s a n d I d e a l s . "

T h e r e i s n o t h i n g i n t h e e s s a y t h a t i s o f m u c h i m p o r t a n c e

t o m e n o w t o c a n c e l , b u t w h a t I f e e l t o b e w a n t i n g i n i t

i s t h e l a c k o f a n y d e e p p e r s o n a l f e e l i n g a b o u t J e s u s . I

e x a l t h i s c h a r a c t e r a n d t e a c h i n g s , b u t i n a p h i l o s o p h i c

w a y , a s i f c a r v i n g a n o v e l f i g u r e o n t h e s e p u l c h r e o f h i s

s p i r i t ,-e p u l c h r e t o m e r e p r e s e n t e d b y t h e e c c l e s i a s t i c a l

s y s t e m c a l l e d C h r i s t i a n i t y ; a n d t h e f o l l o w i n g w o r d s a p -

p e a r e d t o m e t h e n a s u f f i c i e n t e p i t a p h : -



3 5 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

"Nor wi ll the Morr ow take away Chris t . I t w i l l r e s t o r e

h i m t o t h e W o r l d f r o m w h i c h p a t r i s t i c m e t a p h y s i c s h a v e

removed him . I t w i l l n o l o n g e r b e c o n s i d e r e d a n y d e g r a -

d a t i o n t o c a l l h i m a m a n . H e w i l l b e s e e n a s o n e o f a h i g h

and holy f raternity of seers and teachers, stretching

t h r o u g h a l l a g e s , w h o m n o o n e r a c e c a n c l a i m , w h o s p e a k

f o r u n i v e r s a l r i g h t a n d r e a s o n . "

I then p refer r ed the name " C h r i s t " t o " J e s u s , " b e -

cause Christ was a " r o y a l t i t l e " which Jew and Gentile

united to bestow on a poor man whose only c laim to

k i n g s h i p w a s t h a t h e b o r e w i t n e s s t o t h e t r u t h . Before

p a s s i n g t h r o u g h E g y p t I h a d r e a c h e d a d e f i n i t e b e l i e f t h a t

J e s u s w a s t h e r e a l n a m e , p r o b a b l y g i v e n b y h i s p a r e n t s i n

h o m a g e t o J e s u s B e n S i r a , p r i n c i p a l a u t h o r o f t h e b r i l l i a n t

heretical book entitled "Wis dom," to which Chri stians

g a v e t h e t i t l e " E c c l e s i a s t i c u s ." The name would thus be

a n i n d i c a t i o n t h a t J e s u s w a s b r o u g h t u p i n a n a n t i - j a h v i s t

h o u s e h o l d a n d t r a i n e d i n t h e s e c u l a r w i s d o m a s s o c i a t e d

wi th the Solomonic s chool ; and that he was himself

t r a i n e d i n b o y h o o d i n t h e a c a d e m y o f c o s m o p o l i t a n H i l l e l .

I n m y b e l i e f J e s u s w a s , a s P a u l s a y s , a r i c h m a n , w h o b y

d e v o t i n g h i m s e l f t o a p u b l i c c a u s e b e c a m e s u f f i c i e n t l y

p o o r t o a c c e p t t h e p e c u n i a r y s u p p o r t o f c e r t a i n p e r s o n s o f

rank, - suc h as Mary entitled the Magdalene ; Joanna,

the wi fe of Herod's s teward ; Susanna, " a n d m a n y

o t h e r s . "

In the abs ence of any mention of J esus by any c on-

t e m p o r a r y w r i t e r I c o u l d r e a c h m y c o n v i c t i o n o f h i s a c t u a l

e x i s t e n c e o n l y b y a p u r e l y l i t e r a r y i n v e s t i g a t i o n .

At the close of one day we were compensated for our

qu arantine impri sonment on Suez - C a n a l b y a s o r t o f a f t e r -

glow which shaped itself into a mirage . It needed bu t

s l i g h t h e l p o f i m a g i n a t i o n t o s e e l a k e a n d p a l m s o n t h e



CONFRONTING THE SPHINX 355

h o r i z o n , a n d p e r h a p s a l l m y " l o s t b o w e r s " o f f a i t h m i g h t

h a v e r e a p p e a r e d h a d n o t t h e b l a c k c u r t a i n o f E g y p t i a n

n i g h t f a l l e n .

M y f r i e n d C h a r l e s D u d l e y W a r n e r , w h o v i s i t e d m e i n

London on his r eturn fr om the Nil e, -about w hich he

w r o t e t w o c h a r m i n g b o o k s , - w a s i m p r e s s e d b y a n i n c i d e n t

w h i c h w o u l d n o t h a v e b e e n n o t i c e d b y a n y m e r e t r a v e l l e r .

I t m a d e m e r e c o g n i z e i n h i m a b r o t h e r p i l g r i m w h o h a d

c o m e a s f a r f r o m t h e o l d M e t h o d i s t m e e t i n g s i n M a d i s o n

C o u n t y , N e w Y o r k , a s I h a d f r o m t h o s e o f S t a f f o r d i n

V i r g i n i a . A m i d t h e s o l e m n m o n u m e n t s o f a n i m m e m o r i a l

P a s t , s i t t i n g a l o n e o n h i s b a r g e f a r i n t h e d e p t h s o f n i g h t ,

wi th the mysteries of Sphinx and Pyramid and T emple

a r o u n d h i m , h e h e a r d f r o m a n e i g h b o u r i n g b a r g e a f l u t e

s e n d i n g o u t i n t h e m i d n i g h t t h e a i r o f t h e f a m i l i a r h y m n ,-

H o w f i r m a f o u n d a t i o n , y e s a i n t s o f t h e L o r d ,

I s l a i d i n y o u r f a i t h b y h i s e x c e l l e n t w o r d .

Warner knew by insti nct that this w as some happy

Y a n k e e c o n f r o n t i n g t h e S p h i n x w i t h h i s s o l u t i o n o f t h e

e n i g m a o f t h e u n i v e r s e . There was a story that when

R a l p h W a l d o E m e r s o n f i r s t s t o o d b e f o r e t h e S p h i n x s h e

said to him, -You'r e another . " T h i s i s a f a i r e n o u g h

s t o r y t o d e r i v e f r o m l i n e s i n E m e r s o n ' s f i r s t p o e m . : -T h e o l d S p h i n x b i t h e r t h i c k l i p , -

S a i d , " W h o t a u g h t t h e e m e t o n a m e ?

I a m t h y s p i r i t , y o k e - f e l l o w ,

O f t h i n e e y e I a m e y e b e a m . "

B u t t h i s h u m b l e b e l i e v e r , w i t h h i s f l u t e a n d h i s " f i r m

f o u n d a t i o n , " c o m i n g f r o m t h e s a m e r e g i o n a s t h e p h i l o s o -

p h e r w h o f l o a t e d m y f o u n d a t i o n i n e a r l y y o u t h , f a r a w a y

i n V i r g i n i a , g a v e m e a m y s t i c a l t h e m e t o p o n d e r a s I s a t

o n t h e d e c k , a b l e t o v i s i t E g y p t o n l y i n d r e a m s .

I b e g a n t h e n t o t u r n m y l i t t l e s e a r c h l i g h t u p o n m y



356 MY PILGRIMAGE

o w n c o n s c i o u s n e s s. What remained of my old founda-

t i o n ? E s p e c i a l l y d i d t h a t b e i n g w h o m m y e a r l y f a i t h b e -

h e l d m o v i n g a m i d t h e p e o p l e o v e r t h e r e , h e a l i n g t h e i r

s i c k , r a i s i n g t h e i r d e a d , a n d t e a c h i n g r e n u n c i a t i o n o f t h e

w o r l d , - d i d h e e v e r e x i s t a t a l l ? O r d i d a n y g r e a t m a n

e x i s t t h e r e i n t h e r e m o t e p a s t w h o c o u l d h a v e a n y v a l u e

f o r m e ? I c o u l d c r o o n h y m n s a s w e l l a s W a r n e r ' s i n v i s i b l e

n e i g h b o u r w i t h t h e f l u t e ; a n d I d i d r e m e m b e r o v e r t h e r e

a f a v o u r i t e o l d h y m n o f w h i c h m y e x p e r i e n c e h a d c h a n g e d

o n l y a w o r d o r t w o : -

H a r k , m y s o u l , i t i s t h e L o r d 1

' T i s t h e S p i r i t , h e a r h e r w o r d :

J e s u s s p e a k s , h e s p e a k s t o t h e e , -

' S a y p o o r p i l g r i m , l o v e s t t h o u m e ?

I d e l i v e r e d t h e e w h e n b o u n d ,

And when bleeding healed thy wound,

S o u g h t t h e e w a n d e r i n g , s e t t h e e r i g h t ,

T u r n e d t h y d a r k n e s s i n t o l i g h t . '

D i d t h e s e l i n e s h a v e m o r e t h a n p a t h o s f o r m e , - d i d t h e y

h o l d a n y t r u t h f o r m e ? I t i s p e r f e c t l y t r u e t h a t i n e v e r y

v i c i s s i t u d e o f t h o u g h t , b e l i e f , l i f e , t h a t m a n h a d l e d m e .

I t w a s h e w h o w h e n , i n m y t w e n t i e t h y e a r , I c e a s e d t o b e -

l i e v e t h a t h e w a s A l m i g h t y G o d , l e d m e g e n t l y o u t o f m y

p u l p i t a n d b a d e m e f o l l o w m y l i g h t . I t w a s h e w h o g a v e

m e s t r e n g t h t o l e a v e f a t h e r , m o t h e r , a n d h o m e f o r t h e

s a k e o f w h a t I b e l i e v e d t h e t r u t h , a n d g a v e m e c o u r a g e t o

s u f f e r e x i l e a n d f a c e p e r i l f o r t h e s a k e o f t h e n e g r o s l a v e .

T h a t c a r r i e d m e t o t h e f e e t a n d t h e f r i e n d s h i p o f E m e r -

s o n , o f L o n g f e l l o w , a n d u l t i m a t e l y o f t h e p o e t s a n d l e a d e r s

o f t h o u g h t a n d s c i e n c e i n m y t i m e . C o u l d I n o t , t h e n j u s t

p a s t m y f i f t i e t h y e a r , t a k e t o m y s e l f w h a t J e s u s s a i d t o

o n e o f h i s f r i e n d s , " A r e y o u s u r e y o u l o v e m e ? "

Y e s , I l o v e t h e e , b u t i t i s s i n c e l e a v i n g t h e e a s a p r e -

t e r n a t u r a l b e i n g . I f i n d i n d e e d t h a t e v e n i n t h e o l d d a y s



THE MESSIANIC "MYSTERY" 357

m y b r e a s t w a s u n c o n s c i o u s l y d e t a c h i n g J e s u s f r o m t h e

C o s mo s . Who can love a Cosmos?

A l s o , I h a d t o d e t a c h J e s u s f r o m t h e l i b r e t t i o f t h e

s e c o n d a n d t h i r d c e n t u r y p l a y s , w h i c h s h o w h i m a s t h e

c e n t r a l m e s s i a n i c f i g u r e o f a l l e g o r i c a l d r a m a t i s p e r s o n a e ,-u d a s ( t y p e o f J e w r y ) I s c a r i o t ( a w o r d m a d e u p o f

I s s a c h a r , c o u c h i n g b e t w e e n t w o b u r d e n s , -e r v a n t u n d e r

trib ute,-and s c o r t e a s u g g e s t i n g t h e m o n e y - b a g , i t b e i n g

n e c e s s a r y t o e x p l a i n t h e u n b e l i e f o f t h e J e w s , d e s p i t e

m i r a c l e s , a s a r i s i n g f r o m s e l f - i n t e r e s t ) ; Mary Magdalene

( s e e c h a p t e r x i i ) ; S au l , a l i a s o f P a u l , i n a d a p t a t i o n t o t h e

p r o v e r b , " I s S a u l a l s o a m o n g t h e p r o p h e t s ; J e s u s B a -

r a b b a s , a n d B a r J e s u s , e q u i v a l e n t s o f A n t i c h r i s t ; E l y m as

t h e " s o r c e r e r " ( m a g u s ) , i . e . M r . W o r l d l y - w i s e - m a n . T he

f i g u r e o f J o h n i s a n o t a b l e e x a m p l e o f t h e f r e e d o m w i t h

w h i c h t h e a t r i c a l e x i g e n c i e s d e t e r m i n e d t h i n g s . Although

J o h n i s c a l l e d a s o n o f t h u n d e r ( B o a n e r g e s ) , a n d J e s u s

r e p e a t e d l y r e b u k e s h i m f o r h i s f e r o c i t y a n d m u r d e r o u s i n -

t o l e r a n c e , h e i s a s s u m e d t o b e t h e s p e c i a l l y b e l o v e d d i s -

c i p l e , s o c a l l e d i n t h e g o s p e l t r a d i t i o n a l l y a s c r i b e d t o h i m

( J o h n ) t h o u g h h i s n a m e i s n o t o n i t n o r i n i t . T h e t a b l e a u

o f a b e l o v e d l e a n i n g o n C h r i s t ' s b o s o m a n d a S a t a n ( J u d a s )

o n t h e o t h e r i s t o o p i c t u r e s q u e f o r a n y s p e c t a t o r t o r e f l e c t

o n t h e m o r a l i t y o f t h i s f a v o u r i t i s m f o r o n e d i s c i p l e a n d

t h e s e l e c t i o n o f t h e S a t a n t o b e t r e a s u r e r .

I n w i t n e s s i n g R o s t a n d ' s p l a y , " L a S a m a r i t a i n e , " I r e -

m a r k e d t h e r e l i g i o u s f e e l i n g p r o d u c e d i n t h e a u d i e n c e b y

t h e d e c e p t i o n w i t h w h i c h J e s u s i n t r o d u c e s h i m s e l f t o t h e

w o m a n . H e s a y s t h e s u n i s h o t , a n d a s k s f o r w a t e r , b u t

w h e n a f t e r s o m e t a l k s h e o f f e r s h i m w a t e r h e s a y s , " I h a v e

n o t h i r s t e x c e p t f o r t h y s o u l . " I t m u s t b e t h a t a l l C h r i s -

t i a n s f e e l t h a t t h e i n c i d e n t a t J a c o b ' s w e l l i s a s c e n e ,

n o n e b e i n g t r o u b l e d b y t h e a f f e c t a t i o n o f s a y i n g , 1 1C a l l t h y



3 58 MY PILGRIMAGE

husb and," when be knew she had none . S o m e i n s t i n c t i v e

s e n s e o f d r a m a t i c l i c e n c e m u s t b e c h a r i t a b l y c r e d i t e d t o

r e a d e r s o f t h e s t o r y o f t h e r e s u r r e c t i o n o f L a z a r u s w h o f e e l

no shock at the suc cessi on of u ntruths and deceptions

a t t r i b u t e d t o J e s u s . He is represented as s taying away

f r o m t h e s i c k m a n , i n o r d e r t h a t h e m a y d i e ; h e a f f e c t s t o

b e l i e v e t h a t L a z a r u s i s o n l y a s l e e p , b u t f i n d i n g h i s d i s c i -

p l e s p l e a s e d w i t h t h e p r o s p e c t o f r e c o v e r y , i n w h i c h c a s e

t h e r e w o u l d b e n o m i r a c l e , h e b e c o m e s f r a n k ( p a r r e s i a )

a n d a s s u r e s t h e m t h a t L a z a r u s i s d e a d ; b e t e l l s h i s d i s c i -

p l e s p r i v a t e l y h e i s g l a d L a z a r u s i s d e a d ; h e t e l l s M a r t h a ,

when she comes out to him a l o n e , t h a t h e r b r o t h e r s h a l l

r i s e ; b u t w h e n h e r s i s t e r M a r y c o m e s o u t , a c c o m p a n i e d b y

her Jewis h consolers, Jesus breaks out into vehement

g r o a n s a n d l a m e n t a t i o n s , l a s h i n g h i m s e l f ( e t a r a s e n e a u t o n )

into this s ham grief over a man at whose death he has

c o n n i v e d a n d w h o w o u l d p r e s e n t l y b e a l i v e ! E v e n i n h i s

p r a y e r o v e r L a z a r u s t h e p r e t e n c e i s k e p t u p , a n d h i s f a -

t h e r i s i n f o r m e d , i n a n a s i d e , " I k n o w t h a t t h o u b e a r e s t

m e a l w a y s , b u t b e c a u s e o f t h e m u l t i t u d e a r o u n d I s a i d i t ,

t h a t t h e y m a y b e l i e v e t h a t t h o u d i d s t s e n d m e . " T h u s d o e s

t h e F o u r t h G o s p e l i f t a k e n p r o s a i c a l l y s i n k J e s u s m o r a l l y

i n t o t h e g r a v e o f L a z a r u s .

B u t t h e r e s u r r e c t i o n o f L a z a r u s i s a t r a n s p a r e n t d r a m a

m a d e o u t o f t h e p a r a b l e o f t h e r i c h m a n a n d t h e b e g g a r .

T h i s p a r a b l e i s Z o r o a s t r i a n a n d v e r y a n c i e n t , b e i n g f o u n d

i n t h e B a h m a n Y a s t . ' Among the vis ions of Zoroaster

w a s a 1 1 celebr ity wi th much wealth, whose soul, infa-

m o u s i n t h e b o d y , w a s h u n g r y a n d j a u n d i c e d a n d i n h e l l .

A n d I s a w a b e g g a r w i t h n o w e a l t h a n d h e l p l e s s , a n d h i s

s o u l w a s t h r i v i n g i n p a r a d i s e . " ( I t w i l l b e n o t i c e d t h a t

i n t h e C h r i s t i a n v e r s i o n t h e r i c h m a n ' s o n l y s i n w a s h i s

1 S a c r e d B o o k s o f t h e E a s t , v o l . v . p . 1 9 7 .



RESURRECTION OF LAZARUS 3 5 9

r i c h e s. ) Abraham's word s to the ri ch man-"neither

wi ll they be persu aded if one rose fr om the dead"-

w e r e n o t a d a p t e d t o a f a i t h b u i l t o n a r e s u r r e c t i o n , a n d

t h a t p a r a b l e i s n o t f o u n d i n t h e F o u r t h G o s p e l . T he

r e s u r r e c t i o n o f a s u p e r n a t u r a l m a n i s n o t s u f f i c i e n t f o r a

p e o p l e n o t s u p e r n a t u r a l . Those w ho had b een looki ng

f o r a r e t u r n i n g C h r i s t h a d d i e d , j u s t l i k e t h e u n b e l i e v e r s .

T h e r e w a s a t r e m e n d o u s n e c e s s i t y f o r a n e x a m p l e o f t h e

r e s u r r e c t i o n o f a n o r d i n a r y m a n . T h e r e i s a u d i b l e i n t h e

s t o r y t h e p a t h e t i c c r y o f t h e h u m a n h e a r t , a n d t h e d e m a n d

t h a t m u s t b e m e t b y a n y g o s p e l c l a i m i n g t h e f a i t h o f

humanity . " L o r d , i f t h o u h a d s t b e e n h e r e m y b r o t h e r

h a d n o t d i e d ! " T h r o u g h w h a t a g e s h a s t h a t d e c l a r a t i o n

a s c e n d e d t o c o l d a n d s i l e n t s k i e s ? I t i s f o u n d i n t h e

V e d a s , i n J o b , i n t h e P s a l m s . I f t h e r e i s a h e a r t u p t h e r e ,

w h y a r e w e t o r t u r e d ? T o t h e m a n y a p o l o g i e s a n d e x p l a -

n a t i o n s a n d p r e t e n c e s w h i c h i m p e r i l l e d s y s t e m s h a d g i v e n ,

C h r i s t i a n i t y h a d t o a d d s o m e t h i n g m o r e t h a n E g y p t i a n

d r e a m s a n d P l a t o n i c s p e c u l a t i o n s . A d e a d m a n m u s t a r i s e ;

i t m u s t b e d o n e d r a m a t i c a l l y , a m i d d o m e s t i c g r i e f a n d

n e i g h b o u r l y s y m p a t h y ; i t m u s t b e d o n e d o c t r i n a l l y , w i t h

f u n e r a l s e r m o n t u r n e d t o r e j o i c i n g s . A n d t h i s i s a l l d o n e

i n t h e s t o r y o f L a z a r u s i n s u c h a w a y t h a t i t m i g h t s u r -

r o u n d e v e r y g r a v e w i t h h a p p y v i s i o n s . F o r w h o , w h i l e

t e a r s a r e f a l l i n g , w i l l p a u s e t o h a n d l e t h e w r e a t h s , a n d

f i n d w h e t h e r t h e y a r e g e n u i n e ? W h o , w h i l e t h e s e r v i c e

i s p r o c e e d i n g , w i l l a n a l y z e t h e d e t a i l s , a n d a s k w h e t h e r i t

i s p o s s i b l e t h a t J e s u s c o u l d h a v e p r a c t i s e d s u c h d e c e p t i o n

a n d a s s u m e d s u c h t h e a t r i c a l a t t i t u d e s a s t h o s e d e s c r i b e d

i n . t h e F o u r t h G o s p e l ?

T h e f o r e r u n n e r s o f t h e f r e e t h i n k e r s o f o u r m o d e r n w o r l d

w e r e a c t i v e f o u n d e r s o f i n s t i t u t i o n s , p o l i t i c a l a n d e d u c a .

t i o n a l , b u t d i d n o t d r e a m o f b u i l d i n g u p a n y t h i n g p r a c t i c a l



3 6 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

w i t h o u t t h e a i d o f r e l i g i o n . T h o m a s J e f f e r s o n e v e n w h i l e

a t W i l l i a m a n d M a r y C o l l e g e w a s a d i s b e l i e v e r i n C h r i s -

t i a n i t y , b u t i t w a s h e w h o a t t h e o u t b r e a k o f t h e R e v o l u -

t i o n d e c r e e d f o r V i r g i n i a a d a y o f f a s t i n g . D r . Benjamin

Rush was a Univers alist and Governor John Dick inson

a deist, bu t in together founding Di ck inson College in

Pennsylvania they imported f rom Scotland a pr esid ent

a n d f a c u l t y o f C a l v i n i s t s , a v o w e d l y b e c a u s e t h e y r e g a r d e d

i t a s e s s e n t i a l f o r s u c c e s s t o a t t r a c t t h e P r e s b y t e r i a n s .

Benjamin Fr anklin was w hat would now be pronounced

a n " i n f i d e l , " b u t i t w a s h e w h o m o v e d t h a t t h e C o n s t i t u -

tional Convention (1 78 7) s hould be opened with prayer .

Wakefield, the founder of the New Zealand Colony, was

a t h e i s t i c r a t i o n a l i s t , b u t h e d i d n o t e v e n t r y t o b e g i n o r

c a r r y o n t h e w o r k w i t h o u t o b t a i n i n g a i d o f t h e E n g l i s h

clergy, and establishing there the Chur ch of E ngland .

It is probable that such men assu med as an axiom that

the features of reli gion which they repu di ated wer e

m e r e l y i n c i d e n t a l t o t h e e t h i c a l s y s t e m o n w h i c h s o c i e t y

was based . T h o m a s J e f f e r s o n , w r i t i n g p r i v a t e l y t o J o h n

Adams, sai d : -4 ° Among the sayings and d isc ourses imputed to him

[ J e s u s ] b y h i s b i o g r a p h e r s , I f i n d m a n y p a s s a g e s o f f i n e

i m a g i n a t i o n , c o r r e c t m o r a l i t y , a n d o f t h e m o s t l o v e l y b e -

n e v o l e n c e ; a n d o t h e r s , a g a i n , o f s o m u c h i g n o r a n c e , o f s o

much absur dity, s o much untru th, and imposture, as to

p r o n o u n c e i t i m p o s s i b l e t h a t s u c h c o n t r a d i c t i o n s s h o u l d

h a v e p r o c e e d e d f r o m t h e s a m e b e i n g . I s e p a r a t e , t h e r e f o r e ,

t h e g o l d f r o m t h e d r o s s , r e s t o r e t o h i m t h e f o r m e r , a n d

l e a v e t h e l a t t e r t o t h e s t u p i d i t y o f s o m e a n d t h e r o g u e r y o f

o t h e r s o f h i s d i s c i p l e s . "

M a n y y e a r s a g o , J e f f e r s o n ' s g r a n d d a u g h t e r s s h o w e d m e

t h e l i t t l e b o o k i n w h i c h h e p a s t e d p a s s a g e s f r o m t h e N e w



4

ETHICS ASCRIBED TO CHRIST 3 6 1

T e s t a m e n t w h i c h b e c o n s i d e r e d t h e " g o l d , " e v e r y t h i n g

m i r a c u l o u s b e i n g o m i t t e d a s d r o s s .

This had alr eady been done (182 0) b y the learned

Brahman dis si dent, Rammobun Roy, who pub lis hed i n

S a n s c r i t , B e n g a l e e , a n d E n g l i s h h i s b o o k " T h e P r e c e p t s

o f J e s u s , t h e G u i d e t o P e a c e a n d H a p p i n e s s . " T h i s b o o k

d i d n o t g u i d e t h e H i n d u a u t h o r t o " p e a c e a n d h a p p i n e s s , "

bu t br ought on him the wrath of both Brahmans and

m i s s i o n a r i e s . B u t e v e r y p i l g r i m , f r o m u n n a t u r a l t o n a t -

u r a l r e l i g i o n , h a s m a d e f o r h i m s e l f a s i m i l a r s e l e c t i o n .

S u c h c o m p i l a t i o n s , - i n c l u d i n g m y o w n " S a c r e d A n t h o -

l o g y " ( 1 8 7 4 ) , - h o w e v e r r e s t r i c t e d ( b y i n t e n t i o n ) t o e t h -

i c a l i n s t r u c t i o n s , l e a v e t h e m i n d s t i l l i n a n a t m o s p h e r e

c h a r g e d w i t h s u p e r s t i t i o n s . T h e e t h i c s a s c r i b e d t o C h r i s t ,

s u c h a s t h e " S e r m o n o n t h e M o u n t , " a r e l a r g e l y p o s t -

r e s u r r e c t i o n a l a n d q u a s i - m i r a c u l o u s . They are meant in

l a r g e p a r t f o r p e o p l e e x p e c t i n g a s p e e d y e n d o f t h e w o r l d .

T h e r e f o r e t h e y a r e e x h o r t e d t o l a y u p n o t r e a s u r e s o n t h e

e x i s t i n g e a r t h , t a k e n o t h o u g h t f o r t h e m o r r o w , g i v e a l l

t h e i r p r o p e r t y t o t h e p o o r , d i s r e g a r d f a m i l y t i e s , m o u r n ,

m a k e t h e m s e l v e s s e x l e s s , h a t e t h e w o r l d , a n d d o o r a b -

s t a i n f r o m o t h e r t h i n g s , -conduc t which f or men and

women li ving in a permanent world woul d b e immoral

a n d i n s a n e .

T h e t e n t a t i v e e f f o r t o f J e f f e r s o n t o s e p a r a t e g o l d f r o m

d r o s s i n t h e " G o s p e l s " i s c r e d i t a b l e , a n d h e s h o w s , I t h i n k ,

e s p e c i a l a c u m e n i n d e s c r i b i n g P a u l a s t h e " f i r s t c o r r u p t e r

o f t h e d o c t r i n e s o f J e s u s . " N o m i r a c l e a s c r i b e d t o J e s u s

i s a l l u d e d t o b y P a u l , b u t h i s f a t a l i s m , c l e r i c a l a m b i t i o n ,

a n d f a l s e h o o d i n p r e t e n d i n g t o r e c e i v e p r i v a t e r e v e l a t i o n s

f r o m J e s u s a f t e r d e a t h , c o r r u p t e d t h e m o r a l s o f t h e r e l i -

gious movement . H i s i m m e a s u r a b l e c r i m e w a s t o r e s t o r e

i n t h e f o r m o f J e s u s h i m s e l f t h e s a c r i f i c i a l v i c t i m s J e s u s



8 6 2 MY PILGRIMAGE

d r o v e f r o m t h e t e m p l e . I t i s d u e t o P a u l t h a t C h r i s t i a n i t y

r e s t s u p o n a h u m a n s a c r i f i c e . '

T u r n i n g f r o m t h e m e s s i a n i c m y t h a n d t h e " m y s t e r y , " I

f i n d a J e s u s i n c o n t r a s t w i t h t h e p o s t - r e s u r r e c t i o n a l u t t e r -

a n c e s a s c r i b e d t o h i m a n d t h e a c c r e t i o n s w h i c h h a v e i n -

v e s t e d t h e " C h r i s t " d u r i n g t h e a g e s , a n d b e e n p u t i n t o t h e

New Testament by translators, -s uch as deri ving Jesus

f r o m p e a s a n t p a r e n t s , m a k i n g h i s f a t h e r a n d e v e n h i m s e l f

a c a r p e n t e r . (The word TEKT(0v means any work er in w ood .

J o s e p h m a y h a v e b e e n a s c u l p t o r i n w o o d .) Were the nar-

r a t i v e s r e a d a s i f d u g u p i n P e r s i a a n d r e l a t e d t o Z o r o a s t e r ,

w e s h o u l d f i n d i n t h e m a g e n t l e m a n , t r a d i t i o n a l l y o f h i g h

b i r t h , e d u c a t e d , a n d i n t h e b e s t s e n s e a m a n o f t h e w o r l d .

He eats and dri nks wi th pers onages of rank, admires

t h e G r e e k s , e x a l t s c o s m o p o l i t a n S o l o m o n a n d t h e " Gen-

t i l e " Q u e e n o f S h e b a a b o v e t h e p r o v i n c i a l s e c t a r i a n s o f h i s

t i m e , a n d r e p u d i a t e s p r i e s t h o o d , s a c r i f i c e s , s a b b a t h , a n d

p h a r i s a i c m o r a l i t y . H i s f a m i l i a r i t y w i t h r e f i n e d a n d p o l i t e

s o c i a l l i f e a p p e a r s i n p o e t i c p a r a b l e s a n d m e t a p h o r s o f t e n

d r a w n f r o m g r a n d a n d e l e g a n t l i f e , - a l o s t p e a r l , m a s t e r s

o f f i e l d s a n d v i n e y a r d s , w e d d i n g g a r m e n t s , r o y a l a m b a s -

s a d o r s , p r e c e d e n c e a t f e a s t s , t h e f i n e r o b e a n d r i n g , a n d

t h e f a t t e d c a l f . 2

1 Paul found the early separ atists enjoying annually a merr y wine

s u p p e r ( 1 C o r . x i ) w h i c h J e s u s h i m s e l f h a d s u b s t i t u t e d f o r t h e P a s s o v e r ,

a n d s u p p r e s s e d i t b y p r e t e n d i n g t h a t J e s u s h a d a p p e a r e d t o h i m a n d t o l d

h i m i t w a s a s a c r a m e n t i n w h i c h h i s d i s c i p l e s a t e h i s f l e s h a n d d r a n k h i s

b l o o d . The Romans charged the Christians w ith cannibalism, and grad-

u a l l y t h i s b e c a m e a n a c c u s a t i o n o f s e c r e t h u m a n s a c r i f i c e s . As the Romans

made no distincti on between the Christian and non-Chris tian Jews, the

C h r i s t i a n s p a s s e d t h e a c c u s a t i o n o n t o t h e P a s s o v e r J e w s , a n d m u l t i t u d e s

o f t h e s e h a v e s u f f e r e d - m a n y s u f f e r t o t h i s d a y -n d e r a n a c c u s a t i o n o f

" r i t u a l m u r d e r " w h i c h o r i g i n a t e d i n t h e f l e s h - a n d - b l o o d s a c r a m e n t i n s t i -

t u t e d b y P a u l ' s p r e t e n c e o f a p e r s o n a l i n t e r v i e w w i t h t h e d e a d J e s u s .

2 1 c a n n o t q u o t e t h e p a r a b l e o f t h e P r o d i g a l S o n a s a v e r i t a b l e u t t e r a n c e



PREPOSTEROUS LANGUAGE 363

T h e n o t i o n t h a t J e s u s d r e w a r o u n d h i m i g n o r a n t a n d

p o o r " f i s h e r m e n " i s f o s t e r e d b y a d e m o c r a t i c a g e w h o s e

c r e e d i s v o x p o p u l i v o x d e i . F a n c y t h e a b s u r d i t y o f s a y i n g

t o p o o r f i s h e r m e n t h e w o r d s J e s u s i s r e p o r t e d a s a d d r e s s -

i n g ( L u k e x v i i , 7 - 1 0 ) t o h i s a p o s t l e s a l o n e : "Who i s

t h e r e o f y o u , h a v i n g a b o n d s e r v a n t p l o u g h i n g o r k e e p i n g

s h e e p , t h a t w i l l s a y u n t o h i m , w h e n h e i s c o m e i n f r o m

t h e f i e l d , C o m e s t r a i g h t w a y a n d s i t d o w n t o m e a t ; and

w i l l n o t r a t h e r s a y u n t o h i m , M a k e r e a d y w h e r e w i t h I

m a y s u p , a n d g i r d t h y s e l f a n d s e r v e m e t i l l I h a v e e a t e n

and d runken ? " No matter whether Jesus really s aid

t h i s o r n o t , t h e w r i t e r o f L u k e c o u l d n e v e r i m a g i n e a n y -

t h i n g s o p r e p o s t e r o u s a s t h e u s e o f s u c h l a n g u a g e t o m e n

o f t h e l o w e r c l a s s .

D i v e s t i n g a l l t h e t r a d i t i o n a l a c c o u n t s o f e v e r y t h i n g

t h a t c o u l d b e c a l l e d p o s t - r e s u r r e c t i o n a l a n d e v e r y t h i n g

m i r a c u l o u s , - n o m i r a c l e a s c r i b e d t o h i m b e i n g k n o w n t o

a n y o f t h e e a r l y b o o k s o f t h e N e w T e s t a m e n t , t h e E p i s -

t l e s , - I h a d t o c o n s i d e r w h e t h e r t h e r e w e r e u t t e r a n c e s ,

o r i g i n a l i n f o r m i f n o t i n s u b s t a n c e , d e r i v a b l e f r o m t h o s e

f r a g m e n t a r y a c c o u n t s w h i c h c o u l d n o t h a v e b e e n i n v e n t e d

b y a n y o f t h e p e r s o n s w h o r e p o r t t h e m ; a n d w h e t h e r p u t -

t i n g t h e s e t o g e t h e r t h e y i n d i c a t e d t h e p r e s e n c e a b o u t t h a t

t i m e o f a n i n t e g r a l m i n d , a n d o n e o f e x t r a o r d i n a r y g e n i u s .

o f J e s u s , b e c a u s e I t h i n k i t w a s t w i s t e d b y P a u l i n e i n f l u e n c e ( s e e E p h . i i ,

1 2 , 1 3 , a n d 1 4 ) t o r e p r e s e n t t h e r e l a t i o n o f J e w a n d G e n t i l e i n t h e C h u r c h .

T h e G e n t i l e i s t h e l i c e n t i o u s p r o d i g a l , t h e J e w t h e e l d e r b r o t h e r . B u t

t h a t J e s u s d i d u t t e r s o m e p a r a b l e c o n c e r n i n g i n d i v i d u a l i m m o r a l i t i e s s e e m s

p r o b a b l e f r o m a p a s s a g e i n E u s e b i u s : " T h e G o s p e l w h i c h c o m e s t o u s i n

H e b r e w c h a r a c t e r s h a s d i r e c t e d t h e t h r e a t n o t a g a i n s t t h e h i d e r b u t a g a i n s t

t h e p r o f l i g a t e . F o r i t h a s i n c l u d e d t h r e e s e r v a n t s , o n e w h i c h d e v o u r e d t h e

s u b s t a n c e w i t h h a r l o t s a n d f l u t e - w o m e n , a n d o n e w h i c h m u l t i p l i e d , a n d o n e

w h i c h h i d t h e t a l e n t : a f t e r w a r d s t h a t o n e ( t h e p r o f l i g a t e ) w a s r e c e i v e d

b a c k , o n e s i m p l y b l a m e d , a n d o n e ( t h e h i d e r ) c a s t i n t o p r i s o n . " ( I t s e e m s

t h a t i n t h e o r i g i n a l p a r a b l e t h e c h i e f u s u r e r w a s c e n s u r e d . )



3 6 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

St. Augustine, in his C ommentary on John, says that

some had removed f rom their manus cr ipts the story of

t h e w o m a n t a k e n i n a d u l t e r y . " I i m a g i n e , " h e a d d s , " o u t

o f f e a r t h a t i m p u n i t y o f s i n w e r e g r a n t e d t o t h e i r w i v e s . "

I n t h a t c a s e , t o o , t h e s t o r y , s u p p r e s s e d i n o t h e r g o s p e l s ,

c o u l d b e p r e s e r v e d o n l y b y m a k i n g J e s u s p a r t l y t a k e b a c k

h i s w o r d s , " N e i t h e r w i l l I c o n d e m n t h e e , " b y a d d i n g , " G o

and no longer si n." The addition is cant .' As for the

story i n itself, - the wr iting on the ground , the ac-

c u s e r s s l i n k i n g a w a y , a n d t h e t i t l e o f c o u r t e s y w i t h w h i c h

Jesus addresses the woman, " Mistress " (Gunai), - I

c a n n o t d i s c o v e r a n y t h i n g s i m i l a r i n e a s t e r n o r o r i e n t a l

books . I t w o u l d h a v e r e q u i r e d a f i r s t - c e n t u r y B o c c a c c i o

t o i n v e n t s u c h a n e x q u i s i t e s t o r y . 2

The most impor tant revelation to me of the Gos pel

a c c o r d i n g t o t h e H e b r e w s , t h e o n l y g o s p e l w r i t t e n i n A r a -

maic, the language spoken in J erus alem in the time of

J e s u s , i s t h a t t o w h i c h I a l l u d e d i n m y c o n v e r s a t i o n w i t h

Dr. R a j e n d r a l a l a M i t r a i n C a l c u t t a ( c h a p t e r x i i ) . T h e

sentence has b een preserved from this s uppr essed Ara-

maic Gospel by Epiphanius, who writes (Hi r . x x x , 1 6 )

" A n d t h e y s a y t h a t b e b o t h c a m e , a n d ( a s t h e i r s o - c a l l e d

G o s p e l h a s i t ) i n s t r u c t e d t h e m t h a t h e h a d c o m e t o d i s -

s o l v e t h e S a c r i f i c e s : I a n d u n l e s s y e c e a s e f r o m s a c r i f i c i n g ,

1 A t G r i m s b y , E n g l a n d , w h e n a l l d o o r s w e r e c l o s e d a g a i n s t J o h n W e s -

l e y , a w o m a n o f b a d r e p u t e o f f e r e d h i m , w i t h o u t e v i l i n t e n t , a r o o m i n h e r

h o u s e . H e p e r s u a d e d h e r t o r e t u r n t o h e r h u s b a n d i n N e w c a s t l e - o n - T y n e

a n d a c c o m p a n i e d h e r t h i t h e r . T h a t w a s n o t c a n t .

2 M y l e a r n e d f r i e n d , J o h n M . R o b e r t s o n , M . P . , t o w h o m I m e n t i o n e d t h e

o r i g i n a l i t y o f t h e s t o r y , q u o t e d f r o m o n e o r t w o L a t i n a u t h o r s t h e s e n t i m e n t

t h a t a n a c c u s e r s h o u l d b e h i m s e l f w i t h o u t t h e f a u l t h e c h a r g e s . T h i s i s

i n d e e d o u r l a w m a x i m , t h a t a p l a i n t i f f m u s t c o m e i n t o c o u r t w i t h c l e a n

h a n d s , b u t t h e a r t o f g e n i u s i s d i s p l a y e d i n t h e f o r m a n d c o l o u r . A s C o n -

f u c i u s s a i d , " T h e h i d e o f a d o g a n d t h e h i d e o f a p a n t h e r a r e t h e s a m e i f

s t r i p p e d o f t h e i r d e c o r a t i v e h a i r . "



WHY JESUS WAS PUT TO DEATH 365

t h e w r a t h s h a l l n o t c e a s e f r o m y o u ."' Dr . N i c h o l s o n i s

s h o c k e d a t t h i s t h r e a t , a n d s u s p e c t s t h e E b i o n i t e s o f h a v -

i n g a l t e r e d w h a t J e s u s s a i d . B u t s u r e l y i t i s a t r u e a n d

g r a n d a d m o n i t i o n b y o n e s u p e r s e d i n g a p h a n t a s m o f h e a -

v e n l y e g o i s m , d e m a n d i n g g i f t s f r o m m e n f o r p a c i f i c a t i o n ,

w i t h t h e i d e a o f S u p r e m e L o v e . D r . N i c h o l s o n c o n n e c t s

i t , n o d o u b t r i g h t l y , w i t h L u k e x i i i , 1 - 3 , w h i c h s h o u l d

p r o b a b l y r e a d : " T h e r e w e r e s o m e p r e s e n t a t t h a t v e r y s e a -

s o n w h o t o l d h i m o f t h e G a l i l e a n s w h o s e b l o o d P i l a t e h a d

m i n g l e d w i t h t h e i r s a c r i f i c e s . A n d h e a n s w e r e d , T h i n k y e

t h e s e G a l i l e a n s w e r e s i n n e r s r a t h e r t h a n a l l o t h e r G a l i l e a n s

b e c a u s e t h e y s u f f e r e d t h e s e t h i n g s ? I t e l l y o u , N o ! And

u n l e s s y e c e a s e f r o m s a c r i f i c i n g , t h e w r a t h w i l l n o t c e a s e

fr om you . " T h a t i s , t h e y w o u l d a l w a y s b e h a u n t e d b y

t h e d e l u s i o n o f a b l o o d t h i r s t y g o d , a g o d o f w r a t h , a n d

s e e a j u d g m e n t , n o t o n l y i n e v e r y a c c i d e n t , b u t i n e v e r y

c a l a m i t y w r o u g h t b y f i e n d i s h m e n .

Here for the fi rst time I dis covered why the Jews

s o u g h t t h e d e a t h o f J e s u s . I n m y E s s a y o n C h r i s t i a n i t y

( 1 8 7 6 ) I e x p r e s s e d t h e b e l i e f t h a t J e s u s " w a s n o t p u t

t o d e a t h b e c a u s e o f h i s b e a u t i f u l m o r a l t e a c h i n g s o r h i s

p u r e l i f e , " b u t b e c a u s e h i s r e l i g i o n " r e n d e r e d a p r i e s t h o o d

t o t a l l y u n n e c e s s a r y , " a n d b e c a u s e h e t u r n e d t h e p e o p l e

a g a i n s t h i m b y o v e r t h r o w i n g t h e i r h o p e s o f a n a t i o n a l

p o l i t i c a l M e s s i a h a n d m i l i t a r y d e l i v e r e r a n d t h e i r f u t u r e

g l o r y . B u t t h e i n s u f f i c i e n c y o f t h e s e t e a c h i n g s , o r a n y

t e a c h i n g s , t o e x c i t e a m u r d e r o u s p u r p o s e a g a i n s t J e s u s h a d

a l r e a d y b e e n f e l t b y m e b e f o r e I w e i g h e d t h e w o r d s o f

t h e A r a m a i c G o s p e l , a n d e v e n t h e s e w o r d s a l o n e d i d n o t

e x p l a i n t h e t r a g e d y . D e n u n c i a t i o n s o f t h e s a c r i f i c e s a r e

f o u n d i n s e v e r a l p r o p h e t i c P s a l m s , a n d i n t h e p e c u l i a r e x -

p r e s s i o n u s e d b y E p i p h a n i u s i n c i t i n g t h e A r a m a i c G o s p e l

( ' 1 h e b o t h c a m e a n d i n s t r u c t e d t h e m t h a t h e h a d c o m e t o



3 6 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

d e s t r o y t h e s a c r i f i c e s " ) d i d n o t r e f e r e x a c t l y t o v e r b a l

t e a c h i n g , b u t t o s o m e t h i n g d o n e . I n r e v i s i n g t h e l i f e o f

J e s u s I p e r c e i v e d t h a t t h e s t o r y o f t h e a l l e g e d a t t a c k o n

the money-c hangers in the temple had b een tampered

w i t h , a n d t h a t t h e o r i g i n a l s t o r y i n t h e F o u r t h G o s p e l

w as : "He made a whip of small cords and drove out of

the temple the sheep and oxen, and to those that sold

doves s aid, Remove them." The clums y importation into

t h i s t e x t o f t h e p a i n s t a k i n g e f f o r t o f t h e S y n o p t i c s t o t u r n

t h e a c t i o n o f J e s u s f r o m a d e m o n s t r a t i o n a g a i n s t a n i m a l

sacr if ice i nto zeal for the temple and w rath against a

l e g i t i m a t e b u s i n e s s l e d m e t o r e c o n s i d e r t h a t l e g e n d w h i c h

I h a d t o t a l l y d i s c a r d e d . I r e a c h e d t h e c o n c l u s i o n , t h a t h e

w h o m C h u r c h t r a d i t i o n s h a v e w i t h o u t s c r i p t u r a l w a r r a n t

r e p r e s e n t e d a s a s o r t o f p e a s a n t s u r r o u n d e d b y p e a s a n t

d i s c i p l e s , w a s o n t h e c o n t r a r y a g e n t l e m a n o f l o c a l d i s -

t i n c t i o n , e n j o y i n g t h e f r i e n d s h i p o f h i g h p e r s o n a g e s , i n -

c l u d i n g P i l a t e a n d h i s w i f e , a n d t h a t h e g a t h e r e d a r o u n d

h i m a n u m b e r o f a n t i - s a c r i f i c e r e f o r m e r s l a r g e e n o u g h t o

p r o t e c t h i m i n d r i v i n g t h e a n i m a l s o u t o f t h e t e m p l e .

I n t h e n a r r a t i v e o f t h e t r i a l o f J e s u s i n t h e F o u r t h

Gospel (x ix) the English translations have massed to-

g e t h e r t h e c l a u s e s o f v e r s e 1 2 , m a k i n g i t a p p e a r t h a t t h e

e f f o r t o f P i l a t e t o r e l e a s e J e s u s w a s o n l y t o s e c u r e h i s

a c q u i t t a l a t t h e t r i a l . B u t i n t h e o r i g i n a l t h e f i r s t c l a u s e

i s a d i s t i n c t s e n t e n c e : " T h e n c e f o r t h P i l a t e s o u g h t t o r e -

lease him. " Taken in connection with the warni ng sent

P i l a t e b y h i s w i f e t o d o n o t h i n g a g a i n s t t h e j u s t m a n , a n d

t h e c a r e o f t h e R o m a n s o l d i e r s n o t t o b r e a k a n y b o n e s ,

and the entombment in a ric h man's sepu lc hre wi thout

embalmment, a fai r argument may be made that Pilate,

w h i l e a f f e c t i n g t o s u r r e n d e r J e s u s t o t h e m o b , c o n t i n u e d

his effor t to save him, and that when Mary Magdalene



DEATH OF JESUS ESSENTIAL 3 6 7

w e n t t o t h e s e p u l c h r e w h i l e i t w a s y e t d a r k , i t w a s t o a

l i v i n g J e s u s t h a t s h e c r i e d , " M y M a s t e r ! " I t i s p o s s i b l e

t h a t t h i s l a d y o f t i t l e a n d p r o p e r t y a c t e d w i t h t h e a d v i c e

o f P i l a t e a n d h i s w i f e , a n d w e n t w h i l e i t w a s y e t d a r k i n

o r d e r t h a t s h e m i g h t s p i r i t o f f J e s u s t o a p l a c e o f s a f e t y .

T h e r e i s n o e v i d e n c e t h a t J e s u s r e c e i v e d a n y f a t a l w o u n d .

However this may be, it was essential for pious and

e c c l e s i a s t i c a l p u r p o s e s t h a t t h e p u r e l y h u m a n J e s u s s h o u l d

b e d e c l a r e d d e a d , a n d t h a t t h e r e s h o u l d e m e r g e f r o m h i s

s e p u l c h r e a M e s s i a h ,- C h r i s t , -a n d a l s o t h a t t h e l o c a l

tradi tions reporting the real man should b e entombed,

a f t e r s e l e c t i n g f r o m t h e m j u s t s u c h p a s s a g e s a s m i g h t b e

edited and adapted to the supernatural founder of the

Chur ch and Pri esthood . For human love and s ympathies

h a d t o b e p r e s e r v e d , a s w e l l a s d i v i n e s a n c t i t i e s o f t h e

s w o r d a n d o f c r e e d s a n d i n q u i s i t o r i a l p o w e r . F o r t u n a t e l y ,

h o w e v e r , l i t e r a r y a r t a t t h e e n d o f t h e f i r s t c e n t u r y a n d

i n t h e s e c o n d w a s n o t e q u a l t o t h e d e l i c a t e t a s k o f w e l d -

ing the human Jesus wi th the Chris t finely enough to

p r e v e n t c r i t i c i s m f r o m s e p a r a t i n g t h e m s u f f i c i e n t l y t o r e -

c o v e r , a s I t h i n k , t o s o m e e x t e n t a t l e a s t , t h e m a n s o m e

h a v e t h o u g h t i r r e c o v e r a b l e a n d o t h e r s e n t i r e l y m y t h i c a l.

Before quoting the ideas that appear genuine in the

a l l e g e d u t t e r a n c e s o f J e s u s , l e t m e w a r n m y r e a d e r t h a t

t h e y a r e n o t s e l e c t e d f o r t h e i r i n t r i n s i c t r u t h n o r f o r

t h e i r o r i g i n a l i t y . T h e b e l i e f t h a t J e s u s w a s t h e s o n o f a

peasant or a carpenter, or particu larly a man of sor-

rows , -trad itional vestment giv en him to attract the

sympathies of the poor and exci te their wonder ,-c an-

not remain in unpreposs essed eyes . There are i n the

Solomonic b ooks more than fif ty sayings that flower in

the parables and metaphors of J esus , who was wi thout

a n y p r e t e n s i o n t o o r i g i n a l i t y . H e wa s no p rop het, no



3 6 8 MY PILGRIMAGE

r a b b i , a n d b u t i n c i d e n t a l l y a p u b l i c t e a c h e r ; h e w a s , I

b e l i e v e , a s c h o l a r o f g e n i u s t r y i n g t o d e l i v e r t h e p e o p l e

f r o m p r a c t i c a l l y p e r n i c i o u s s u p e r s t i t i o n s , a n d f r e e l y -

eloquently, too-us ing for that end all the wi sd om he

c o u l d g e t h o l d o f .

N e x t t o S i d d a r t h a ( B u d d h a ) s t a n d s i n t h e e a r l i e s t a n -

n a l s o f h i s l i f e h i s r e l a t i v e a n d d e v o u t d i s c i p l e , A n a n d a .

It i s r elated that Ananda, after a long walk in the

c o u n t r y , m e t M a t a n g i , a w o m a n o f l o w c a s t e , n e a r a w e l l

and asked her f or some water. She tells him she must

n o t c o m e n e a r h i m , b e i n g o f l o w e r c a s t e . A n a n d a r e p l i e s ,

" M y s i s t e r , I a s k n o t f o r t h y c a s t e o r t h y f a m i l y , I a s k

o n l y f o r a d r a u g h t o f w a t e r ." She bec omes a devotee of

B u d d h a . T h e r e i s n o r e a s o n w h y t h i s B u d d h i s t a n e c d o t e

s h o u l d n o t h a v e b e e n k n o w n t o t h e s c h o l a r s o f J e r u s a l e m

C o l l e g e , w h e r e t h e g r e a t l i b e r a l t h i n k e r H i l l e l p r e s i d e d ,

a n d w h e r e p r o b a b l y J e s u s , a s s a i d i n L u k e ( i i , 4 0 , 5 2 ) ,

g r e w s t r o n g , a d v a n c e d i n w i s d o m , a n d w a s b e l o v e d .

I n J u d e a t h e c a s t e w a s r a c i a l , t h a t o f b e i n g t h e " chosen

p e o p l e " o f A b r a h a m i c d e s c e n t , a n d t h e e s p e c i a l a p p l i c a t i o n

o f i t s p r e t e n s i o n s w a s a g a i n s t t h e S a m a r i t a n s . T h e r e i s

every r eason why a man of genius and of high position

s h o u l d t a k e p a i n s t o v i s i t S a m a r i a , n a t u r a l t h a t h e s h o u l d

talk w ith a woman there, again natural that when his

f r i e n d s m a r v e l a t h i s t a l k i n g w i t h t h e w o m a n h e s h o u l d

have remi nded them of Ananda and the woman of l ow

c a s t e a t t h e w e l l . T h e S a m a r i t a n s t h e m s e l v e s c o u l d i n d e e d

p r o v i d e t h e s c e n e r y : they w ere Assyr ians, and Babylon

h a d l o n g b e e n a g r e a t c e n t r e o f B u d d h i s m , w h o s e m i s s i o n -

a r i e s a n d a c t o r s w e r e g o i n g t h r o u g h a l l t h e w o r l d .' They

1 "Babylon dtait devenue depuis qu elque temps u n vrai foyer d e

Bo u d d h i s me ; B o u d a s p ( B o d h i s a t t v a ) 6 t a i t r d p u t d u n s a g e c h a l d e e n e t

l e f o n d a t e u r d u s a b i s m e . Le s a b i s m e l u i - m e m e , q u ' d t a i t - i l ? Ce que son



A BASE INTERPOLATION 369

w o u l d r e a d i l y a s s o c i a t e t h e W e l l o f A n a n d a w i t h t h e i r

Well of Jacob . B u t t h e c o i n c i d e n c e r e l a t e s s o l e l y t o t h e

f r a m e a r o u n d t h e p i c t u r e . T h e r e p u d i a t i o n o f c a s t e i s a

s m a l l t h i n g c o m p a r e d w i t h t h e s u b l i m e a n d f a r - r e a c h i n g

t h o u g h t o f J e s u s : ° ° M i s t r e s s , b e l i e v e m e , t h e h o u r c o m e s

w h e n n e i t h e r i n t h i s m o u n t a i n n o r y e t i n J e r u s a l e m s h a l l

y e w o r s h i p t h e F a t h e r : t h e h o u r c o m e s , a n d n o w i s , w h e n

t h e t r u e w o r s h i p p e r s s h a l l w o r s h i p t h e F a t h e r i n s p i r i t

a n d i n t r u t h . " W h o w o u l d h a v e b e e n b o l d e n o u g h , e v e n

h a d h e b e e n l i b e r a l e n o u g h , t o c l e a r a w a y a l l t h e m o s t

s a c r e d p l a c e s i n o n e t r e m e n d o u s a f f i r m a t i o n ? Who could

i n v e n t i t ? M a t t h e w , M a r k , L u k e s u p p r e s s i t . Even in

t h e o n e g o s p e l t h a t v e n t u r e s t o p r e s e r v e t h e g r a n d u t t e r -

a n c e i t c o u l d o n l y b e d o n e b y a t t a c h i n g t o i t a s e n t e n c e

r e t r a c t i n g i t: "

Y e w o r s h i p t h a t w h i c h y e k n o w n o t ; w e

wors hip that which we know : f o r s a l v a t i o n i s f r o m t h e

Jews . "

T h i s i n t e r p o l a t i o n i n t h e F o u r t h G o s p e l ( i v , 2 2 ) i s t h e

b a s e s t i n t h e N e w T e s t a m e n t , a s t h e u t t e r a n c e i t p e r v e r t s

i s t h e h i g h e s t . . I t b e g a n t h e s e c t a r i a n w o r k o f c h o k i n g

u p t h e W e l l w h i c h , s y m b o l i z e d a h u m a n r e l i g i o n i n t h e

w a t e r r e f r e s h i n g a l l w i t h o u t r e g a r d t o s e c t o r d o g m a .

' ° T h e r e i s n o t h i n g t o b e s e e n , " s a y s S t u a r t - G l e n n i e

("Pilgrim Memories"), concerning Jacob's Well, "but

4 t y m o l o g i e i n d i q u e : l e b a p t i s m e , c ' e s t - a - d i r e l a r e l i g i o n d e s b a p t e m e s

m u l t i p l i e s , l a s o u c h e d e l a s e c t e e n c o r e e x i s t a n t e q u ' o n a p p e l l e c h r 4 t i e n s

d e S a i n t J e a n o n m e n d a i t e s , e t q u e l e s A r a b e s a p p e l l e n t e l - m o g t a s i l a , l e s

b a p t i s t e s ." - Renan .

I t i s e v e n p o s s i b l e t h a t i n t h e S a m a r i t a n w o m a n ' s l e g e n d w e h a v e a

r e a p p e a r a n c e o f D r a u p a d i , w h o w i t h K r i s h n a ' s a d v i c e w a s t h e w i f e o f t h e

fiv e Pandava princes, and who pretended to be enamoured of one "who

w a s n o t h e r h u s b a n d , " t h e w a r r i o r K i c h a k a , w h o p e r i s h e d b e c a u s e o f h i s

a t t e m p t s o n h e r l o y a l t y a n d m o d e s t y . I n t h e a n c i e n t t i m e o f p o l y a n d r y ,

Draupadi was the ideal wife, woman, and princess . She was w idel y

f a m o u s , a n d i s s t i l l o n t h e s t a g e i n I n d i a .



3 7 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

b e s i d e a l i t t l e m o u n d o f r u i n s , a s h a l l o w p i t h a l f c h o k e d

with rubbi sh ." The rival sects sur roundi ng the "holy

p l a c e s " w i t h t h e i r g a u d y t e m p l e s - e a c h m a i n t a i n i n g i t s

G e r i z i m o r i t s J e r u s a l e m , i t s M e c c a o r R o m e o r C o n s t a n -

t i n o p l e - a r e a l l u n c o n s c i o u s l y a t t e s t i n g b y t h e i r n e g l e c t

o f J a c o b ' s W e l l t h a t i n t w o t h o u s a n d y e a r s C h r i s t e n d o m

h a s n e v e r b e e n a b l e t o a p p r e c i a t e , m u c h l e s s i n v e n t t h e

s u b l i m e u t t e r a n c e a s s o c i a t e d w i t h i t . The utterance-wheresoever or to whomsoever spoken-i s t h a t o f a g r e a t

t h i n k e r a n d a g r e a t h e a r t . Who was it?

I t i s n o t a q u e s t i o n o f w h e t h e r t h e r e h a d n o t b e e n a s

g r e a t t h i n k e r s - o r g r e a t e r - w h o s p o k e w i t h e q u a l c a t h o -

l i c i t y b e f o r e o u r e r a ; b u t t h e s i m p l y h i s t o r i c a l q u e s t i o n

w h e t h e r t h e r e w a s o n e s u c h a t t h e b e g i n n i n g o f o u r e r a ,

a n d w h e t h e r w e a r e t o i d e n t i f y h i m a s t h e i n d i v i d u a l t o

w h o m t h e p a r a d o x i s a s c r i b e d , w i t h t i m i d r e s e r v a t i o n , i n

the (anonymous) F ourth Gospel .

S e t t i n g a s i d e a l l t h a t i s o f m e s s i a n i c , p o s t - r e s u r r e c t i o n a l ,

p e r f u n c t o r y , o r s u p e r n a t u r a l a c c e n t i n t h e r e p o r t e d s a y i n g s

of Jesu s, and conceiv ing him as a man of geniu s who

n e v e r d r e a m e d o f f o u n d i n g a n e w r e l i g i o u s o r g a n i z a t i o n ,

I s u b j o i n t h e s e n t e n c e s a n d s t a t e m e n t s w h i c h I a c c e p t ( o n

l i t e r a r y g r o u n d s ) i n s u b s t a n c e j u s t a s I a c c e p t t h e r e p o r t e d

u t t e r a n c e s o f S o c r a t e s a n d C o n f u c i u s .

I b e g i n w i t h t h a t d e c l a r a t i o n w h i c h , t r a n s l a t e d i n t o

a c t i o n , r i s k e d-n d p o s s i b l y c o s t-i s l i f e .

I a m c o m e t o d i s s o l v e t h e S a c r i f i c e s ; and unless you

c e a s e f r o m s a c r i f i c i n g , t h e W r a t h s h a l l n o t c e a s e f r o m y o u .

G o y o u a n d l e a r n t h e m e a n i n g o f t h i s : I d e s i r e m e r c i -

f u l n e s s , n o t s a c r i f i c e .

I f y o u c a r r y a g i f t t o a n a l t a r , b e t h i n k t h e e w h e t h e r

t h y f e l l o w m a n h a s a n y c l a i m u p o n t h e e ; l e a v e t h e r e t h y

g i f t f o r t h e a l t a r u n o f f e r e d a n d f i r s t a n s w e r t h e n e e d o f

ma n .



SAYINGS OF JESUS 3 7 1

I f y o u l o v e n o t y o u r b r o t h e r m a n w h o m y o u h a v e s e e n ,

bow c an you love God whom you have not seen?

If thy br other hath off ended in anything and b ath

made thee amends, s even times i n a day r eceive him .

Simon said, Seven times in a day? J esus answered, I

t e l l t h e e a l s o u n t o s e v e n t y t i m e s s e v e n ; f o r i n t h e p r o -

p h e t s l i k e w i s e a f t e r t h e y w e r e a n o i n t e d b y t h e H o l y S p i r i t

u t t e r a n c e o f e r r o r w a s f o u n d .

The Sabb ath was made f or man, not man for the Sab-

bath .

Beholdi ng a man work ing on the Sabbath, Jesu s s aid

t o h i m , M a n , i f t h o u k n o w e s t w h a t t h o u d o e s t , b l e s s e d a r e

thou ; b u t i f t h o u k n o w e s t n o t , t h o u a r t u n d e r a c u r s e , a

mere law- breaker .

L e t y o u r l i g h t s h i n e b e f o r e m e n . A l a m p i s n o t l i t t o

b e p u t u n d e r a b u s h e l .

T h e l a m p o f t h e b o d y i s t h e e y e . I f t h i n e e y e b e s o u n d ,

t h e w h o l e b o d y i s i l l u m i n e d ; i f t h e e y e b e d i s e a s e d , t h e

w h o l e b o d y i s i n d a r k n e s s . I f t h e i n n e r e y e b e d a r k e n e d ,

h o w g r e a t i s t h e d a r k n e s s !

S u f f i c i e n t u n t o t h e d a y i s t h e e v i l t h e r e o f .

B y t h e i r f r u i t s b o t h t r e e s a n d m e n a r e k n o w n .

E a c h t r e e i s k n o w n b y i t s o w n f r u i t .

Jus t now my mother the Holy Spiri t took me by one

of my hair s and b ore me up on to the great mountain

T a bo r . 1

Whatsoever ye would that men should d o to you, do

ye even s o to them : on this hang all the law and the

p r o p h e t s .

The lawyer to whom Jesus said , Love thy neighbour

a s t h y s e l f , a s k e d , W h o i s m y n e i g h b o u r ? J e s u s s a i d : A

certain man was going down from Jeru salem to Jericho ;

and he fell among robbers , whic h both stripped him and

beat him, and d eparted leaving him half dead . A nd b y

chance a certain pri est was going down that way ; andwhen he saw him he passed b y on the other s id e . An d

i T h i s i s o l a t e d f r a g m e n t i s q u o t e d s i m p l y b e c a u s e o f t h e s i g n i f i c a n c e o f

t h e f a c t t h a t i n t h e o n l y r e f e r e n c e , t o t h e H o l y S p i r i t b y t h e p r e - r e s u r r e c -

t i o n a l J e s u s h e p e r s o n i f i e s i t a s a w o m a n . T h i s h e r e s y a l o n e w a s e n o u g h

t o s u p p r e s s t h e A r a m a i c G o s p e l .



3 7 9 MY PILGRIMAGE

i n l i k e m a n n e r a L e v i t e a l s o , w h e n h e c a m e t o t h e p l a c e ,

a n d s a w h i m , p a s s e d b y o n t h e o t h e r s i d e . B u t a c e r t a i n

S a m a r i t a n a s h e j o u r n e y e d , c a m e w h e r e h e w a s : and when

he saw him he was moved wi th compassion, and came to

him, and bound up hi s wou nds pour ing on them oil and

wine ; a n d h e s e t h i m o n h i s o w i l b e a s t , a n d b r o u g h t h i m

t o a n i n n a n d t o o k c a r e o f h i m . And on the morr ow he

t o o k o u t t w o p e n c e , a n d g a v e t h e m t o t h e h o s t , a n d s a i d ,

Take care of him ; a n d w h a t s o e v e r t h o u s p e n d e s t m o r e , I ,

w h e n I c o m e b a c k a g a i n , w i l l r e p a y t h e e . Which of these

t h r e e , t h i n k e s t t h o u , p r o v e d n e i g h b o u r t o h i m t h a t f e l l

among the robb ers? And he said, He that spewed mercy

on him . A n d J e s u s s a i d u n t o h i m , G o , a nd d o t ho u

l i k e w i s e .

Now as they went on their way , he entered i nto a

c e r t a i n v i l l a g e : an d a c e rta in w oman named Ma rtha

r e c e i v e d h i m i n t o h e r h o u s e . A n d s h e h a d a s i s t e r c a l l e d

M a r y , w h i c h a l s o s a t a t t h e L o r d ' s f e e t , a n d h e a r d h i s w o r d .

But Martha was cumbered about much serv ing ; a n d s h e

c a m e u p t o h i m , a n d s a i d , L o r d , d o s t t h o u n o t c a r e t h a t m y

s i s t e r l e a v e s m e t o s e r v e a l o n e ? b i d h e r h e l p m e . Jesus

s a i d M a r t h a , M a r t h a , t h o u a r t a n x i o u s a n d t r o u b l e d a b o u t

many things ; one dis h is enough : Mary hath chosen a

g o o d s h a r e , w h i c h m u s t n o t b e t a k e n f r o m h e r . (No doubt

said with some humour . )

T h e d i v i n e s w a y c o m e s n o t v i s i b l y , s o t h a t a m a n m a y

s a y , L o h e r e ! l o t h e r e ! f o r i t i s w i t h ( o r w i t h i n ) y o u . I t

i s l i k e u n t o l e a v e n w h i c h a w o m a n h i d i n t h r e e m e a s u r e s

o f m e a l , t i l l i t w a s a l l l e a v e n e d .

S u f f e r t h e l i t t l e c h i l d r e n t o c o m e t o m e ; forbi d them

n o t ; o f s u c h i s t h e k i n g d o m o f t h e h e a v e n s . '

M a n y t h a t a r e f i r s t s h a l l b e l a s t , a n d l a s t t h a t s h a l l

b e f i r s t .

The mother and b rothers of Jesus said to him, John

t h e B a p t i s t b a p t i z e t h f o r r e m i s s i o n o f s i n s : l e t u s g o a n d

b e b a p t i z e d b y h i m . Bu t he said to them, Wherein have

1 A l t h o u g h J e s u s a t t i m e s u s e s t h i s p h r a s e , " k i n g d o m o f t h e h e a v e n s , " i t

i s o f t e n e r a s c r i b e d t o h i m i n a s e n s e h e r e p u d i a t e d w i t h e m p h a s i s ; i t w a s

n o t s o m e t h i n g e x t e r n a l , i n a n o t h e r w o r l d , n o r i n t h e f u t u r e , n o r w a s i t

a n y t h i n g r o y a l .



SAYINGS OF JESUS 3 7 3

I s i n n e d t h a t I s h o u l d g o a n d b e b a p t i z e d b y h i m e x c e p t

p e r h a p s t h i s v e r y t h i n g t h a t I h a v e s a i d i s i g n o r a n c e .

J o h n t h e B a p t i s t i s g r e a t , y e t h e t h a t i s b u t l i t t l e i n

t h e ( r e a l ) k i n g d o m o f t h e h e a v e n s i s g r e a t e r . For from

t h e d a y s o f J o h n t h e B a p t i s t t i l l n o w t h i s k i n g d o m ( t h a t

i s w i t h i n ) s u f f e r s b y v i o l e n c e , a n d b y t h e v i o l e n t w h o

w o u l d t a k e i t b y f o r c e .

I t i s l i k e u n t o a g r a i n o f m u s t a r d s e e d , w h i c h a m a n

took, and cast into his own garden ; and it grew, and

became a tree ; and the bir ds of the heavens lodged in

t h e b r a n c h e s t h e r e o f .

T h e w o m a n ( o f S a m a r i a ) s a i d t o h i m , O u r f a t h e r s w o r -

s h i p p e d i n t h i s m o u n t a i n ; a n d y e s a y , t h a t i n J e r u s a l e m

is the place where men ought to worshi p . Jesus said

Mistress, believe me, the hour is coming when neither

i n t h i s m o u n t a i n , n o r i n J e r u s a l e m , s h a l l y e w o r s h i p t h e

F a t h e r _ B u t t h e h o u r c o m e s , a n d n o w i s , w h e n t r u e w o r -

s h i p p e r s s h a l l w o r s h i p t h e F a t h e r i n m i n d a n d h e a r t: f o r

such the Father also seeks . God is spirit : t h e y t h a t

w o r s h i p h i m m u s t w o r s h i p i n s p i r i t a n d s i n c e r i t y .

T h e s c r i b e s a n d t h e P h a r i s e e s b r i n g a w o m a n t a k e n u p

f o r a d u l t e r y : a n d h a v i n g p l a c e d h e r i n t h e m i d s t t h e y s a i d

t o h i m , T e a c h e r , t h i s w o m a n h a s b e e n t a k e n u p i n a d u l -

t e r y , i n t h e v e r y a c t ; and in the law Moses c ommanded

us to stone such : what dost thou s ay? Jesus having

bent down, wrote with his finger up on the ground . B u t

a s t h e y c o n t i n u e d a s k i n g h i m , b e u n b e n t a n d s a i d t o t h e m ,

Let the sinles s one of you fi rs t cast against her the

s t o n e . And havi ng bent down again, he kept wri ting

u p o n t h e g r o u n d . B u t t h e y w e n t o u t o n e b y o n e , b e g i n n i n g

f r o m t h e e l d e r o n e s , a n d J e s u s w a s l e f t a l o n e w i t h t h e

w o m a n . A n d J e s u s h a v i n g u n b e n t , s a i d t o h e r , M i s t r e s s ,

where ar e they? Hath none condemned thee ? S h e s a i d ,

N o n e , s i r . J e s u s s a i d , N e i t h e r w i l l I c o n d e m n t h e e .

S a y n o t y e , T h e r e a r e y e t f o u r m o n t h s , a n d t h e n com-

eth the harvest? Behold I s ay unto you, Lif t up you r

e y e s , a n d l o o k o n t h e f i e l d s , t h a t t h e y a r e w h i t e a l r e a d y

u n t o h a r v e s t .

Y e h a v e h e a r d i t s a i d , A n e y e f o r a n e y e , a t o o t h f o r

a t o o t h , b u t I s a y , R e s i s t n o t h i m t h a t i s e v i l . Y e h a v e



3 7 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

h e a r d i t s a i d , T h o u s h a l t l o v e t h y n e i g h b o u r a n d h a t e t h i n e

enemy : I s a y , L o v e y o u r e n e m i e s .

W h y a r e y e a n x i o u s a b o u t r a i m e n t? C o n s i d e r t h e

l i l i e s o f t h e f i e l d , h o w t h e y g r o w : t h e y t o i l n o t , s p i n n o t ;

y e t S o l o m o n a m i d a l l h i s g l o r y n e v e r a r r a y e d h i m s e l f l i k e

o n e o f t h e s e . ( T h e P a l e s t i n e l i l i e s a r e g o r g e o u s . )

B e n o t a n x i o u s f o r t h e m o r r o w : t h e m o r r o w w i l l b e a n x -

i o u s f o r i t s e l f . S u f f i c i e n t u n t o t h e d a y i s t h e e v i l t h e r e o f .

Ju dge not !

Give not that which i s holy to the dogs, whi ch turn

and tear you ; c a s t n o t y o u r p e a r l s b e f o r e s w i n e , w h i c h

t r a m p l e t h e m u n d e r t h e i r f e e t .

Wide and b road i s the path to destru ction, and many

e n t e r t h e w i d e g a t e : h o w n a r r o w t h e g a t e a n d s t r a i t e n e d

t h e w a y ( o f t r u e ) l i f e , a n d h o w f e w f i n d i t !

C e r t a i n s c r i b e s a n d P h a r i s e e s s a i d , T e a c h e r , w e w o u l d

s e e a s i g n f r o m t h e e . Jesu s answered, An evil and sen-

s u a l t i m e l o o k s f o r a m i r a c l e : n o m i r a c l e w i l l o c c u r .

Jesu s ( speaking in the temple to the chief p ri ests)

said, Did ye never read in the Scri ptures, The stone

whic h the bui lder s rej ected was made the head of the

c o r n e r ? H e t h a t f a l l e t h o n t h i s s t o n e s h a l l b e b r o k e n ,

b u t o n w h o m s o e v e r i t s h a l l f a l l i t w i l l g r i n d h i m t o d u s t .

Call no man master .

One of the Pharisees d esir ed him to eat with him .

A woman of the town when she knew that he was s itting

a t m e a t i n t h e P h a r i s e e ' s h o u s e b r o u g h t a f l a s k o f o i n t -

ment and began to wet his feet wi th tears and w iped

t h e m w i t h t h e h a i r o f h e r h e a d a n d k i s s e d h i s f e e t a n d

a n o i n t e d t h e m w i t h t h e o i n t m e n t .

She has loved muc h .

T h e h o u s e w a s f i l l e d w i t h t h e o d o u r o f t h e o i n t m e n t ;

b u t s o m e s a i d , T o w h a t p u r p o s e t h i s w a s t e ? The ointment

m i g h t h a v e b e e n s o l d f o r t h r e e h u n d r e d p e n c e a n d g i v e n

t o t h e p o o r , a n d t h e y m u r m u r e d a g a i n s t h e r . J e s u s s a i d ,

L e t h e r a l o n e ; why troub le her? On me she has w rought

a good wor k . S h e h a s d o n e w h a t s h e c o u l d .

P u t n o t n e w w i n e i n t o o l d w i n e - s k i n s , l e s t t h e y b u r s t .

B e w i s e a s s e r p e n t s , a n d h a r m l e s s a s d o v e s .

I f a n y m a n w i l l b e g r e a t , l e t h i m s e r v e .



SAYINGS OF JESUS 375

T h e l o w l y s h a l l b e e x a l t e d , t h e p r o u d h u m b l e d .

B l i n d g u i d e s s t r a i n o u t o n t h e g n a t , a n d s w a l l o w a

camel .

G i v e , a n d i t s h a l l b e g i v e n y o u .

T h e m e a s u r e y e m e t e s h a l l b e m e a s u r e d t o y o u .

Cast the beam from thine eye, before noticing t h e

m o t e i n t b y n e i g h b o u r ' s e y e .

H e i s a g r e a t c r i m i n a l , w h o h a t h g r i e v e d t h e s p i r i t o f

h i s b r o t h e r .

N o t h a n k t o y o u i f y o u l o v e t h e m t h a t l o v e y o u , b u t

t h e r e i s t h a n k i f y o u l o v e y o u r e n e m i e s a n d t h e m t h a t

h a t e y o u .

B e y e n e v e r j o y f u l s a v e w h e n y o u h a v e l o o k e d u p o n

y o u r b r o t h e r i n c h a r i t y .

B e a s l a m b k i n s ( t h o u g h ) i n t h e m i d s t o f w o l v e s .

T h e s o n a n d t h e d a u g h t e r s h o u l d i n h e r i t a l i k e .

I t i s h a p p i e r t o g i v e t h a n t o r e c e i v e .

N o s e r v a n t c a n s e r v e t w o m a s t e r s .

O u t o f e n t i r e h e a r t a n d o u t o f e n t i r e m i n d .

W h a t i s t h e p r o f i t i f a m a n g a i n t h e e n t i r e w o r l d , a n d

l o s e h i s l i f e ?

B e c o m e p r o v e d b a n k e r s .

I f y e h a v e n o t b e e n f a i t h f u l i n t h e l i t t l e , w h o w i l l

t r u s t y o u w i t h t h e l a r g e ?

H a p p y a r e t h e l o w l y ; t h e y e n j o y t h e e a r t h .

H a p p y a r e t h e y t h a t h u n g e r a n d t h i r s t a f t e r j u s t i c e

i n t h e m i t i s f u l f i l l e d .

H a p p y a r e t h e c o m p a s s i o n a t e ; t h e y s h a l l r e c e i v e c o m -

p a s s i o n .

H a p p y a r e t h e p u r e i n h e a r t .

H a p p y a r e t h e p e a c e m a k e r s .

T h e e v i l o n e i s t h e t e m p t e r .

G i v e n o o p p o r t u n i t y t o t h e e v i l o n e .

A man sowed good seed in his fi eld, b ut whil e he

s l e p t h i s e n e m y s o w e d t a r e s a m i d h i s w h e a t a n d w e n t o f f .

When the blade s prang up and b ore forth fr uit there

a p p e a r e d t h e t a r e s a l s o , a n d t h e s e r v a n t s o f t h e h o u s e -

h o l d e r c a m e a n d s a i d , S i r , d i d s t t h o u n o t s o w g o o d s e e d

in thy fi eld ? Whence then has it tares? And be sai d

u n t o t h e m , A n e n e m y h a t h d o n e t h i s .



3 7 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

I n t h e s e s e l e c t i o n s I h a v e i n c l u d e d o n l y w h a t I b e l i e v e

J e s u s s a i d . T h e r e a r e s e v e r a l t h i n g s r e p o r t e d i n t h e N e w

Testament in whi ch there i s r e a l i t y a n d b e a u t y , b u t s o

m u c h d i s g u i s e d t h a t i t i s d i f f i c u l t t o g i v e t h e m p r e c i s e

e x p r e s s i o n . No doubt there was some real remark in the

conclud ing reference to John the Baptist in Luke vii ,

3 1 - 3 4 , b u t J e s u s c o u l d n o t h a v e u s e d t h e p h r a s e ' S o n o f

m a n ' a s a t i t l e . F o r t h e r e s t , t h e r e i s b o t h h u m o u r a n d

p a t h o s i n t h e i n c i d e n t :-

W h e r e u n t o t h e n s h a l l I l i k e n t h e m e n o f t h i s g e n e r a -

t i o n , a n d t o w h a t a r e t h e y l i k e ? T h e y a r e . l i k e u n t o c h i l -

d r e n t h a t s i t i n t h e m a r k e t - p l a c e , a n d c a l l o n e t o a n o t h e r ;

w h i c h s a y , W e p i p e d u n t o y o u , a n d y e d i d n o t d a n c e ; w e

wailed, and ye d id not weep . For J ohn the Baptist i s

c o m e e a t i n g n o b r e a d n o r d r i n k i n g w i n e ; a n d y e s a y , H e

b a t h a d e v i l . The Son of man is c ome eating and d ri nk-

i n g ; and ye s ay, Behold a glu ttonous man, and a wine-

b i b b e r , a f r i e n d o f p u b l i c a n s a n d s i n n e r s ! B u t w i s d o m i s

j u s t i f i e d o f a l l h e r c h i l d r e n .

I t i s n o t b e c o n s i d e r e d t h a t t h o s e w h o d o n o t a c c e p t

n a r r a t i v e s o f s u p e r n a t u r a l e v e n t s a s h i s t o r y a r e i n d i f f e r e n t

t o t h e i r s i g n i f i c a n c e . I t i s n o t m e r e l y a s p o e t r y t h a t s u c h

l e g e n d s a s t h a t o f t h e N a t i v i t y a r e v a l u a b l e , b u t a s s e r i o u s

w i t n e s s e s t o t h e m e n t a l a n d m o r a l c o n d i t i o n s a m i d w h i c h

w e r e s h a p e d t r a d i t i o n s l i t e r a l l y u n h i s t o r i c . I n t h e N a t i v -

i t y w e h a v e a d r a m a t i c a n d r e a l i s t i c c o m p o s i t i o n b a s e d

o n a n e a r l i e r s t o r y o f t h e b a p t i s m o f J e s u s . T h e e a r l i e s t

a c c o u n t i s c e r t a i n l y t h a t o f t h e A r a m a i c G o s p e l : -

When the people had been baptized, J esus also came

and was baptized by J ohn . And as he w ent up the hea-

v e n s w e r e o p e n e d , a n d b e s a w t h e H o l y S p i r i t i n s h a p e o f

a d o v e d e s c e n d i n g a n d e n t e r i n g i n t o h i m . A n d a v o i c e o u t

o f t h e h e a v e n , s a y i n g , T h o u a r t m y b e l o v e d S o n , i n t h e e

I a m w e l l p l e a s e d : a n d a g a i n , I h a v e t h i s d a y b e g o t t e n

t h e e . And strai ghtway a great li ght shone around the



BAPTISM OF JESUS 377

p l a c e . And w hen John saw i t be sai th unto him, Who

a r t t h o u , L o r d ? A n d a g a i n a v o i c e o u t o f h e a v e n u n t o

h i m , T h i s i s m y b e l o v e d S o n , i n w h o m I a m w e l l p l e a s e d .

T h e n J o h n f e l l d o w n b e f o r e h i m a n d s a i d , I p r a y t h e e ,

L o r d , b a p t i z e t h o u m e . B u t h e p r e v e n t e d h i m , s a y i n g ,

Let be ; f o r t h u s i t i s b e c o m i n g t h a t a l l t h i n g s s h o u l d b e

f u l f i l l e d . A n d i t c a m e t o p a s s , w h e n t h e L o r d b a d c o m e

u p f r o m t h e w a t e r , t h e e n t i r e f o u n t a i n o f t h e H o l y S p i r i t

d e s c e n d e d a n d r e s t e d u p o n h i m a n d s a i d t o h i m , M y s o n ,

i n a l l t h e p r o p h e t s d i d I a w a i t t h e e , t h a t t h o u m i g h t e s t

c o m e a n d I m i g h t r e s t i n t h e e ; f o r t h o u a r t m y r e s t ; t h o u

a r t m y f i r s t b o r n S o n t h a t r e i g n e s t f o r e v e r .

In no other gospel are f ound the words, "This day

h a v e I b e g o t t e n t h e e . " W h e n t h a t w a s w r i t t e n i t c o u l d

n o t h a v e b e e n b e l i e v e d t h a t t h i s d i v i n e p a t e r n i t y d a t e d

b a c k t o a p h y s i c a l e v e n t t h i r t y y e a r s b e f o r e . T h a t s t o r y

w a s n o t y e t c o m p l e t e d i n t h e m i d d l e o f t h e s e c o n d c e n -

t u r y , w h e n w e f i n d C l e m e n t o f A l e x a n d r i a ( S t r o m a t e i s )

s a y i n g t h a t s o m e p e o p l e i n h i s t i m e w e r e m a i n t a i n i n g t h a t

M a r y w a s a v i r g i n , a n o p i n i o n w h i c h h e c o n d e m n s . T he

H o l y S p i r i t o v e r s h a d o w i n g J e s u s a t b a p t i s m i s t h e s a m e

t h a t l a t e r o v e r s h a d o w s M a r y , t o w h o m w a s t r a n s f e r r e d t h e

t i t l e h e h a d a p p l i e d t o t h e H o l y S p i r i t , - " My mother . "

T h e g r e a t l i g h t w h i c h s h i n e s o v e r t h e b a p t i s m , n o t m e n -

t i o n e d i n t h e o t h e r G o s p e l s , b e c o m e s a f t e r w a r d s t h e g l o r y

t h a t s h o n e a r o u n d t h e s h e p h e r d s . T h e m a t e r n a l w o r d s o f

t h e S p i r i t e n t e r i n g J e s u s a t b a p t i s m i n t h e A r a m a i c n a r -

r a t i v e - a d o v e w h i c h h e a l o n e s a w o r h e a r d-o r r e s p o n d

w i t h t h e w o r d s o f S i m e o n , w h o c a m e b y t h e S p i r i t i n t o

the Temple . '

1 I n t h e a n c i e n t L a l i t a V i s t a r a i t i s r e l a t e d t h a t a n i n s p i r e d r i s h i o r

s a g e , d w e l l i n g i n t h e H i m a l a y a s , n a m e d A s i t a , b e c a m e i n f o r m e d b y p o r -

t e n t s o f t h e b i r t h o f a f u t u r e l a w g i v e r , a s t h e s o n o f K i n g S u d d h o d a n a ,

a t K a p i l a v a s t u , a n d j o u r n e y e d t h i t h e r t o p a y h i s h o m a g e t o t h e i n f a n t .

A m o n g t h e p o r t e n t s A s i t a b e a r d j o y f u l g o d s a c c l a i m i n g i n t h e s k y B u d d h a ' s

n a m e , a n d h e s a w f a r o f f t h e b a b e i n h i s c r a d l e .



3 7 8 MY PILGRIMAGE

T h e o l o g i a n s h a v e n a t u r a l l y c l a i m e d t h a t t h e w o r d s a d -

d r e s s e d t o J e s u s b y t h e J e w s , " W e w e r e n o t b o r n o f f o r -

n i c a t i o n , " w e r e a s n e e r , a n d p r o v e t h e i r k n o w l e d g e t h a t

J o s e p h w a s n o t t h e f a t h e r o f J e s u s . T h e J e w i s h t r a d i t i o n

t h a t J e s u s w a s t h e s o n o f a y o u n g R o m a n n a m e d P a n t h e r a

m i g h t s e e m f o r t i f i e d b y t h e a l l e g e d r u d e n e s s o f J e s u s t o

h i s m o t h e r , " Woman, what have I to do w ith thee ? " and

h i s a p p a r e n t r e f u s a l t o s e e h e r a n d h i s b r e t h r e n w h e n t h e y

a s k e d t o s e e h i m ( M a r k i i i , 3 1 - 3 5 ). I t i s a l s o s a i d t h a t t h e

b r o t h e r s o f J e s u s d i d n o t b e l i e v e i n h i m . B u t s u c h t e x t s

a r e m a i n l y m e s s i a n i c a n d m e a n t h a t J e s u s d i d n o t d e r i v e

h i s w i s d o m f r o m e a r t h l y p a r e n t a g e , b u t a s o n e b e g o t t e n

" n o t o f t h e w i l l o f m a n , b u t o f G o d ." In the genealogy

of Jesu s (Matt. i ) the only wi ves mentioned are those

about whom some irregularity w as traditional -Tamar,

R u t h , B a t h s h e b a , M a r y , - a n d i t i s p o s s i b l e t h a t i n t h e

p o s t - r e s u r r e c t i o n a l e r a i t h a d b e c o m e i m p o r t a n t t o a c c e p t

a n d m a g n i f y t h e a l l e g e d i l l e g i t i m a c y .

I t i s n o t i m p r o b a b l e t h a t t h e s u p e r s t i t i o n a b o u t i l l e g i t i -

m a c y , a s u n d e r s o m e c o n d i t i o n s a s i g n o f a h e r o ' s h e a v e n l y

o r i g i n , m a y h a v e h a d s o m e f o u n d a t i o n i n t h e f a c t s o f h e -

r e d i t y . I n t i m e s w h e n l o v e o r e v e n p a s s i o n h a d l i t t l e c o n -

n e c t i o n w i t h a n y m a r r i a g e , a n d n o n e w i t h r o y a l m a r r i a g e s ,

t h e o f f s p r i n g o f a n a m o u r m i g h t n a t u r a l l y m a n i f e s t m o r e

f o r c e o f c h a r a c t e r t h a n t h e l e g i t i m a t e , a n d t h e i n h e r i t e d

s e n s u a l i m p u l s e s , o f t e n d i s p l a y e d i n n o b l e e n e r g i e s , m i g h t

prov e of enormous impor tance in breaking down an old

o p p r e s s i o n c o n t i n u e d b y a n a u t o m a t i c l e g i t i m a c y o f s u c -

c e s s i o n .

T h e p h r a s e , " e n t i r e f o u n t a i n o f t h e H o l y S p i r i t , " i s Z o r o a s t r i a n : i n

t h e A v e s t a t h e H o l y S p i r i t i s A n t i h i t a ; h e r i n f l u e n c e i s a l w a y s d e s c r i b e d

as a fountain des cending on the saints or heroes to whom she giv es

s t r e n g t h .



THE RESURRECTION MYTH 879

T h e n a r r a t i v e o f t h e A n n u n c i a t i o n a n d N a t i v i t y i s i n -

s e r t e d i n t h e N e w T e s t a m e n t w i t h s i m p l i c i t y , a n d w i t h o u t

a n y f r a u d u l e n t e f f o r t t o h a r m o n i z e i t w i t h t h e e a r l i e r b i o -

graphy . M a r y s a y s t o J e s u s , ° G Thy f ather and I have

s o u g h t t b e e ; " s h e m a k e s t h e u s u a l s a c r i f i c e i n t h e T e m p l e

f o r p u r i f i c a t i o n ; a n d d e s p i t e t h e o f f e r i n g s t o t h e i n f a n t o f

g o l d , f r a n k i n c e n s e , a n d m y r r h , i t i s s a i d h i s b r o t h e r s d i d

n o t b e l i e v e i n h i m . T h e s t o r y h a s b e c o m e t o u s a C h r i s t -

m a s c a r o l w h i c h t e s t i f i e s , h o w e v e r , t o t h e e x a l t a t i o n o f p o p -

u l a r f a i t h a n d h o p e w h e n i t w a s b e l i e v e d t h a t J e s u s h a d

r i s e n f r o m t h e d e a d , a n d t h a t h e w o u l d s p e e d i l y r e a p p e a r

i n r e s p l e n d e n t p o w e r t o b r i n g p e a c e o n e a r t h a n d j o y t o

a l l m a n k i n d . M y o w n b e l i e f i s t h a t i t w a s w r i t t e n o u t a s

a p l a y , w i t h b o r r o w i n g s f r o m o l d B u d d h i s t p l a y s , a n d w a s

a c t e d i n t h e v i l l a g e s . A n d a l l t h i s b r i n g s m e t e s t i m o n y

t h a t t h e r e a c t u a l l y w a s a t t h a t p e r i o d a g r e a t o r i g i n a l

o r a t o r w h o s o u p l i f t e d a n d c h a r m e d t h e b e s t m i n d s a r o u n d

hi m-p r o b a b l y n o t m a n y -t h a t t h e y c o u l d n o t b e a r t h e

t h o u g h t o f h i s d e a t h ; a n d t h a t o n e o f t h e s e , t h e M a g -

d a l e n e , r e p o r t i n g t h a t s h e h a d s e e n h i m a f t e r h i s s u p p o s e d

d e a t h , t h o u g h , a s L u k e s a y s , t h e d i s c i p l e s r e g a r d e d h e r

s t o r y a s i d l e t a l k , n e v e r t h e l e s s g a v e r i s e t o d r a m a s o f

m a r t y r d o m a n d r e s u r r e c t i o n . Ou t of the womb of one

M a r y J e s u s w a s b o r n , o u t o f t h e h e a r t o f a n o t h e r M a r y

h e w a s b o r n a g a i n . A s s h e s a t a l o n e b e s i d e t h e s e p u l c h r e ,

s h e h e a r d a v o i c e s a y i n g , « W h y w e e p e s t t h o u ? " " B e c a u s e

they have taken away my master and I k now not where

t h e y h a v e l a i d h i m ! " " M a r y ! " " Rabb oni-y master!"

M a r y d o e s n o t s p e a k a s i f s h e s u p p o s e d J e s u s h a d d i e d ,

a n d i t c a n n o t n o w b e d e t e r m i n e d w h e t h e r t h e J e s u s s h e

s aw " w h i l e i t w a s y e t d a r k " w a s l i v i n g o r a v i s i o n .

H a d t h e l o v i n g l a d y - t h e m o s t c a l u m n i a t e d t h a t e v e r

l i v e d - f o r e s e e n w h a t w a s t o c o m e , t h e v i s i o n , i f s u c h



3 8 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

it was, c ould not have occurr ed . Mary's heart would

h a v e s a i d , " R e s t , m y b e l o v e d ! S l e e p o n t i l l a p u r e r a g e

c a n r a i s e t h e e f o r a h i g h e r , n o t a l o w e r , c a r e e r , - f o r a

l o v i n g , n o t c u r s i n g , c a r e e r ! T h e e a r t h i s d a r k w i t h o u t

t h e e , b u t t h o u m u s t n o t r i s e t o i n c a r n a t e t h e a u t h o r i t y o f

c r u e l g o d s , a n d c r o w n t h e p o w e r o f c r u e l m e n , a n d t r a c e

t h y s t e p s t h r o u g h h i s t o r y i n b l o o d o f h e a r t s m o s t l i k e

thine own!" Bu t Mary saw not that ; h e r l o v e w a s n o t

t h a t o f t h e p e n i t e n t o f C h r i s t i a n f i c t i o n , b u t t h a t o f t h e

pur e human lover of a great lover ; a n d i f J e s u s i s e v e r

r e l e a s e d b y t h e a n g e l I m a g i n a t i o n f r o m h i s t o m b o f p i o u s

and moral mediocr ity, there will c ome forth with him

grand epi cs and romances, among these that of the Lady

of Maudleyn Castle, w hose wealth helped to su pport her

Beloved when from being ric h he had b ecome poor .

A n i n t e l l i g e n t A m e r i c a n f e l l o w - t r a v e l l e r s a i d t o m e ,

~ ~ D o n ' t f e e l d i s t r e s s e d a t n o t v i s i t i n g P a l e s t i n e . My wif e

t h e r e a n d I c a m e a l l t h e w a y f r o m B o s t o n , c h i e f l y t o v i s i t

t h e p l a c e s a s s o c i a t e d w i t h J e s u s ; and both of u s c ame

a w a y , f e e l i n g r a t h e r s o r r y w e h a d g o n e . I t i s d i f f i c u l t t o

e x p l a i n o u r d i s i l l u s i o n , b u t i t w a s p a r t l y t h e v u l g a r i z a t i o n

b y s h o w m e n o f e v e r y t h i n g s a c r e d , a n d t h e s e c t a r i a n m o n -

uments, s plendid memorials of intolerance, continually

e x c i t i n g d i s g u s t , i n s t e a d o f t h e s w e e t a n d h a p p y e m o t i o n s

we bad expected . "

I e a s i l y r e c o g n i z e d i n t h i s B o s t o n g e n t l e m a n a n o l d -

f a s h i o n e d i n t e l l e c t u a l S o c i n i a n , w h o s e i d e a l w a s a J e s u s

n o t t o o f a r , n o r y e t t o o n e a r . M y e a r l y M e t h o d i s t t r a i n -

i n g i n t h e S o u t h h a d c o n t i n u e d t h r o u g h a l l v i c i s s i t u d e s ,

as an increasing love for my teachers, for those who

h e l p e d m e a t a p i n c h , w h e t h e r t h e y w e r e a n c i e n t o r m o d -

e r n . There are i n my "Sacr ed Anthology" some selec -

tions from Budd ha, - s u c h a s h i s " E x c e l l e n c i e s , " - a n d



aMY VISION 3 8 1

s o m e f r o m S a a d i , w h i c h I c e a s e d t o r e a d t o m y c o n g r e g a -

t i o n a s L e s s o n s , b e c a u s e t h e y b r o u g h t t h o s e m e n b e f o r e

m e s o v i v i d l y t h a t t h e s t r a i n o n m y f e e l i n g w a s t o o g r e a t .

T h e i d e a s I g r a d u a l l y f o r m e d o f J e s u s a s a m a n , a n d m y

i n t e r p r e t a t i o n s a s g i v e n a b o v e , o f w h a t h e r e a l l y t h o u g h t

a n d f e l t ( s o f a r a s t h e r e w e r e a n y d a t a b e f o r e m e ) a w a k -

e n e d i n m e a g r e a t l o v e f o r h i m . O u t t h e r e o n o u r s h i p ,

i n t h e S u e z C a n a l , i n t h e d a r k n e s s , i t w a s a s i f h e s a to n

t h e d e c k b e s i d e m e , a n d s a i d s o f t l y , " I w a s l o n e l y i n l i f e

b e c a u s e t h e a g e w a s f r a n t i c a b o u t r e l i g i o n , a n d e v e r y b o d y

w a s t r y i n g t o m a k e m e o u t s o m e k i n d o f a p r i e s t o r p r o p h e t

o r m e s s i a h ; o n l y o n e o r t w o m e n l o v e d m e f o r m y r e a l

h u m a n s e l f , b u t t h e r e w e r e s o m e a f f e c t i o n a t e l a d i e s , w i t h

o n e o f w h o m , M a r y o f M a g d a l a , m y r e l a t i o n s w e r e t e n d e r

a n d i n t i m a t e . M a r y o f B e t h a n y a n o i n t e d m e a t t h e t a b l e

a s i f I w e r e a k i n g , b u t w h a t I p r i z e d w e r e h e r t e a r s a n d

k i s s e s . S h e , t o o , h a d a h e a r t , a n d l o v e d m e . "

" A n d t h e t e a r s , " I s a i d , " w e r e t h e y n o t t h e n s i m p l y

p e n i t e n t i a l ? "

" N o t a t a l l . "

Then I repeated the words pr eserved f rom the su p-

p r e s s e d G o s p e l : " T h e d i s c i p l e s s a y , ' Where wi lt thou

that we pr epare for the pass over to eat?' J e s u s a n -

s w e r e d , ' H a v e I d e s i r e d t o e a t t h i s f l e s h , t h e p a s s o v e r ,

w i t h y o u ? ' "

T h r o u g h t h e d a r k n e s s c a m e t h e w o r d s : " N o t h i n g s a c -

r i f i c i a l c o u l d I t o l e r a t e , n o r c o u l d I p a r t i c i p a t e i n a

m e m o r i a l f e a s t b a s e d u p o n t h e w i l d a n d g u i l t y s u p e r s t i -

t i o n o f a n a n g e l k i l l i n g o n e i n e v e r y E g y p t i a n h o m e , a n d

p a s s i n g o v e r t h e h o m e s o f I s r a e l i t e s . M y l i t t l e c i r c l e o f

f r i e n d s h a d b e e n a c c u s t o m e d t o t h e - f e a s t , l o n g b e c o m e

merry, and I i nvited them to a wine-su pper where we

e n j o y e d o u r s e l v e s . I t w a s q u i t e a s i m p l e a f f a i r . "



C H APT E R XVII I

ADDEN D A 1905, 1906 .

THE Oxford scholars engaged i n the Expl oration of

E g y p t , p r i n c i p a l l y D r . B e r n a r d G r e n f e l l o f Q u e e n ' s

C o l l e g e , a n d D r . Arthur H unt of Lincoln College, were

rewarded i n 1897 b y the dis covery on the site of Oxy-

r h y n c h u s , o n e o f t h e c h i e f c i t i e s o f a n c i e n t E g y p t , o f a

page from a book containing some Sayings as cr ib ed to

J e s u s . I n 19 0 3 thei r sear c h wa s renewe d w i th even

g r e a t e r s u c c e s s . T h e s e g e n t l e m e n h a v e e d i t e d t h e p a p y r i

i n a p a m p h l e t o f 4 5 p a g e s , p u b l i s h e d f o r t h e E g y p t E x -

p l o r a t i o n F u n d i n 1 9 0 4 , w i t h f a c s i m i l e s o f t h e i n s c r i p t i o n s

a n d E n g l i s h t r a n s l a t i o n s . F r o m t h e s e I c i t e c e r t a i n p a s -

s a g e s t h a t i m p r e s s m e a s p r e s e n t i n g i n a r e f l e c t e d w a y ,

t h o u g h s o m e t i m e s r e f r a c t e d , g e n u i n e u t t e r a n c e s o f J e s u s .

In readi ng the New Testament and these wri tings fr om

t h e e a r l y c e n t u r i e s o f o u r e r a i t i s i m p o r t a n t t o r e m e m b e r

t h a t c l a s s i c a l G r e e k h a d b e e n a g o o d d e a l m o d i f i e d . T h e

word b a s i l e i a , kingdom, for i nstance, had become very

elastic and represented any kind of sway, so that the

Cr omwellians w ere not far w rong when they prayed ,

'° Thy C ommonwealth come ! "

O n e o f t h e s e s a y i n g s i s : -J e s u s s a i d , T h o u h e a r e s t w i t h o n e e a r , b u t t h e o t h e r

t h o u h a s t c l o s e d .

S t i l l m o r e s t r i k i n g i s t h e f o l l o w i n g : -

Jesu s sai d, Wherever there are two, they are not

w i t h o u t G o d , a n d w h e r e v e r t h e r e i s o n e a l o n e , I s a y , I a m

0



SAYINGS ASCRIBED TO JESUS 383

with him . R a i s e t h e s t o n e , a n d t h e r e t h o u s h a l t f i n d m e :

c l e a v e t h e w o o d , a n d t h e r e a m I .

D o e s t h i s m e a n t h a t G o d i s s i m p l y a c o l l e c t i v i s t t e r m

a n d c o n c e p t i o n , a n d t h a t J e s u s r e p r e s e n t s t h e i n t e r i o r

i n d i v i d u a l m i n d ? A l s o t h a t h e i s f o u n d i n t h e h e a r t o f

h i m w h o h a s d o n e h a r d w o r k ?

O n e o f t h e f r a g m e n t s s h o w s t h a t i n w h a t J e s u s s a i d

a b o u t t h e c l o t h i n g o f t h e l i l i e s , a n d t h a t " t h e l i f e i s m o r e

t h a n t h e f o o d , a n d t h e b o d y m o r e t h a n r a i m e n t , " h e u t t e r e d

s o m e t h i n g t o o s t a r t l i n g t o b e c a n o n i c a l l y r e p r o d u c e d : -

W h o c o u l d a d d t o y o u r s t a t u r e ? H e h i m s e l f w i l l g i v e

y o u y o u r g a r m e n t . H i s d i s c i p l e s s a y u n t o h i m , w h e n w i l t

t h o u b e m a n i f e s t t o u s , a n d w h e n s h a l l w e s e e t h e e ? Hes a i d , W h e n y e s h a l l b e s t r i p p e d a n d n o t b e a s h a m e d ? 1

T h e l o n g e s t o f t h e S a y i n g s i s c o n s i d e r a b l y b r o k e n , a n d

i n g i v i n g i t a s c o n j e c t u r a l l y m a d e o u t b y G r e n f e l l a n d

H u n t I m u s t e x p r e s s g r a v e m i s g i v i n g s a b o u t t h e w o r d s

t h e y h a v e s u p p l i e d p a r a n t h e t i c a l l y : -

Jesu s s aith, (Ye ask? who are these) that draw us

( t o t h e k i n g d o m , i f ) t h e k i n g d o m i s i n H e a v e n ? . . . t h e

f o w l s o f t h e a i r , a n d a l l b e a s t s t h a t a r e u n d e r t h e e a r t h

o r u p o n t h e e a r t h , a n d t h e f i s h e s o f t h e s e a , ( t h e s e a r e

they whic h draw) you, and the Kingdom of Heaven is

1 O n t h i s s a y i n g m a y b e b a s e d a p a s s a g e f r o m a n e a r l y G o s p e l a c c o r d i n g

t o t h e E g y p t i a n s r e f e r r e d t o b y C l e m e n t o f A l e x a n d r i a . It is qu oted by

t h e O x f o r d e d i t o r s a n d s u g g e s t s t h e p r o c e s s b y w h i c h t h e c e l i b a c y o f p r i e s t

a n d n u n w a s d e v e l o p e d : -

S a l o m e a s k e d h o w l o n g d e a t h w o u l d p r e v a i l . T h e L o r d s a i d , S o l o n g a s

y e w o m e n b e a r c h i l d r e n . For I have come to destroy the works of the

f e m a l e . A n d S a l o m e s a i d t o h i m , D i d I t h e r e f o r e w e l l i n b e a r i n g n o c h i l -

dren ? T h e L o r d a n s w e r e d a n d s a i d , E a t e v e r y h e r b , b u t e a t n o t t h a t w h i c h

i s b i t t e r n e s s . When Salome asked when those things about w hich s he

q u e s t i o n e d s h o u l d b e m a d e k n o w n , t h e L o r d s a i d , w h e n y e t r a m p l e u p o n

t h e g a r m e n t o f s h a m e ; w h e n t h e t w o b e c o m e o n e , a n d t h e m a l e w i t h t h e

f e m a l e n e i t h e r m a l e n o r f e m a l e .



3 84 MY PILGRIMAGE

w i t h i n y o u ; a n d w h o e v e r s h a l l k n o w h i m s e l f s h a l l f i n d i t .

( S t r i v e t h e r e f o r e ? ) t o k n o w y o u r s e l v e s , a n d y e s h a l l b e

aware that ye are the sons of the (almi ghty?) Father ;

( a n d ? ) y e s h a l l k n o w t h a t y e a r e i n ( t h e c i t y o f G o d ? )

a n d y e a r e ( t h e c i t y ? ) .

There is a notable absence f rom most of these newly

d i s c o v e r e d f r a g m e n t s o f t h i n g s p o s t - r e s u r r e c t i o n a l , a n d i n

them Jesus appears as an unworldly man of the world,

o r i g i n a l a n d w i t t y , p h i l o s o p h i c a l a n d p r o f o u n d , l o o k i n g

t o t h e c l e a r i n g a w a y o f o p p r e s s i v e p r e j u d i c e s r a t h e r t h a n

to any Utopia . I n t h e s e c o n d E p i s t l e o f C l e m e n t i t i s

s a i d t h a t w h e n J e s u s w a s a s k e d w h e n h i s k i n g d o m s h o u l d

come, he repli ed, "When the two shall be one, and the

outsid e as the insid e, and the male with the female

n e i t h e r m a l e n o r f e m a l e . " T h i s a p p e a r s t o b e a h u m o r o u s

w a y o f s a y i n g N e v e r .

I have little doubt that if these admirable Ox ford

s c h o l a r s w e r e p e r m i t t e d t h e f r e e e x p l o r a t i o n o f t h e V a t i -

c a n l i b r a r y , a n d a f e w o t h e r g u a r d e d c o l l e c t i o n s , t h e y

w o u l d f i n d c o p i e s o f t h e A r a m a i c a n d o t h e r l o s t G o s p e l s .

M e a n w h i l e t h e y m a y t a k e t o h e a r t m o r e l i t e r a l l y t h a n t h e

r e s t o f u s t w o o f t h e S a y i n g s t h e y h a v e d i s c o v e r e d : -

J e s u s s a i t h , E v e r y t h i n g t h a t i s n o t b e f o r e t h y f a c e a n d

t h a t w h i c h i s b i d d e n f r o m t h e e s h a l l b e r e v e a l e d t o t h e e .

For there is nothing hidden whic h shall not be made

m a n i f e s t , n o r b u r i e d w h i c h s h a l l n o t b e r a i s e d .

Jesu s s aith, let not him who seeks . . . u n t i l h e

f i n d s , a n d w h e n h e f i n d s h e s h a l l b e a s t o n i s h e d ; a s t o n -

is hed he shall reach the kingdom, and having reached

t h e k i n g d o m h e s h a l l r e s t .

" He who knows only one reli gion knows none." This

f i n e g e n e r a l i z a t i o n o f M a x M i i l l e r I o f t e n r e c a l l e d i n t h e

E a s t , b u t o f t e n e r s i n c e m y r e t u r n . T h e o r i e n t a l s w a d d l i n g -



ARCHBISHOP MANNING 385

b a n d s p r e s s e d t o m y e y e s , I f o u n d t h a t I h a d n o t r e a l l y

i n t e r p r e t e d t h e r e l i g i o n s a r o u n d m e a t h o m e , - i n A m e r i c a

a n d E u r o p e , - a n d m y l i t t l e e x c u r s i o n s , a n d m y r e c o r d s

o f f o r m e r e x c u r s i o n s r e r e a d , w e r e f o u n d t o b e c o n t i n u a -

t i o n s o f m y p i l g r i m a g e t o t h e W i s e M e n o f t h e E a s t . The

s t a r t h a t d r e w m e t h i t h e r h a d t a k e n a p u r e l y h u m a n f a c e ,

a n d w h e n i t l e d m e b a c k w e s t w a r d I c o u l d s e e i n C h r i s t i a n

s e c t s n o t t h e i r c r e e d s b u t s o l e l y t h e e x t e n t t o w h i c h t h a t

h u m a n f a c e w a s r e f l e c t e d i n t h e m .

Archb is hop Manning gave in London a lectur e on

" P r o g r e s s , " w h i c h i n t e r e s t e d m e a g o o d d e a l . I had a

p l e a s a n t f e e l i n g t o w a r d s M a n n i n g b e c a u s e , w h e n h e w a s

t r y i n g t o h a v e f o u n t a i n s p r o v i d e d t h r o u g h o u t L o n d o n , s o

t h a t p e o p l e s h o u l d n o t b e d r i v e n i n t o t h e l i q u o r s h o p s b y

s h e e r t h i r s t , h e i n v i t e d a l l t h e m i n i s t e r s i n t h e c i t y t o

m e e t h i m a t t h e A r c h b i s h o p ' s p a l a c e ( p l a i n a s a Q u a k e r

m e e t i n g - h o u s e ) , a n d d i d n o t e x c l u d e e v e n s u c h a t e s t o f

t o l e r a n c e a s m y s e l f . N ot many minis ters attended the

a s s e m b l y i n t h e p a l a c e , b u t I d i d , a n d w a s p l e a s e d b y t h e

e a r n e s t n e s s o f M a n n i n g i n t h e m a t t e r .

I n e v e r h e a r d M a n n i n g p r e a c h , b u t i n h i s l e c t u r e h e

m a d e n o e f f o r t a t e l o q u e n c e . H i s t a l l , t h i n f o r m o f t e n

m o v e d b a c k w a r d a n d f o r w a r d , b u t h i s f a c e d i d n o t c h a n g e ,

n o r h i s v o i c e , w h i c h w a s n o t e n t i r e l y a g r e e a b l e . H i s a i m

w a s s i m p l y t o m a k e a c l e a r s t a t e m e n t , a n d t h a t i t s h o u l d

b e h e a r d i n e v e r y p a r t o f t h e h a l l . H e b e g a n b y r e l a t i n g

a s s e r i o u s h i s t o r y a l e g e n d o f P o p e H i l d e b r a n d ' s b o y h o o d .

H i s f a t h e r w a s a w o o d - c u t t e r , a n d o n c e w h e n t h e l a d w a s

c u t t i n g a t r e e t h e f l y i n g c h i p s s h a p e d t h e m s e l v e s i n t o l e t -

t e r s a n d i n t o t h i s s e n t e n c e : R e g n a b i t e x m a r e a d m a r e .

I t w a s t h e p r o p h e t i c s i g n o f h i s d e s t i n y - t o r e i g n f r o m

s e a t o s e a -a n d s t e a d i l y f u l f i l l e d . T h a t , d e c l a r e d t h e

A r c h b i s h o p , w a s p r o g r e s s , a n d a l l p r o g r e s s m e a n s s i m -



3 8 6 MY PILGRIMAGE

p l y t h e f u l f i l m e n t o f t h e p o i n t i n g s o f P r o v i d e n c e . That

m a s s e s o f p e o p l e a n d t h e i r l e a d e r s s h o u l d p u r s u e t h e i r i n -

t e r e s t s a n d f o l l o w t h e i r a m b i t i o n s w a s n a t u r a l , b u t n o t

p r o g r e s s ; i t m i g h t i n d e e d b e r e t r o g r e s s i o n . I t w a s a s u g -

g e s t i v e l i n e o f t h o u g h t , b u t i t a f f e c t e d m e s t r a n g e l y t h a t

a m a n s h o u l d b e t r a i n e d a m i d t h e m o d e r n c u l t u r e a n d s c i -

e n c e o f E n g l a n d t o f i n d t h e s a l i e n t e x a m p l e o f t h e w o r l d ' s

p r o g r e s s i n t h e d e v e l o p m e n t o f t h e t e m p o r a l p o w e r o f t h e

C h u r c h - v i s i b l y c r u m b l i n g u n d e r t h e A r c h b i s h o p ' s e y e s .

T h e r e g i m e H i l d e b r a n d o f c e n t u r i e s h a v i n g t e r m i n a t e d ,

a n d t h e C a t h o l i c C h u r c h h a v i n g b e e n s e t o n t h e w a y o f

d e p e n d i n g o n i t s m e r i t s , w h e r e f o r e t h e h a t r e d o f i t ? Wasn o t t h i s s i n c e r e A r c h b i s h o p , w h o s e e v e r y p h y s i c a l a n d

m e n t a l t r a i t r e p r e s e n t e d a d i s t i n c t i n d i v i d u a l e v o l u t i o n ,

- w a s h e n o t a n o b l e r f i g u r e t h a n a n y c o n v e n t i o n a l i z e d

P r o t e s t a n t ? A t a n y r a t e , h e h a d i n d i v i d u a l i t y e n o u g h t o

m a k e h i s p i l g r i m - p r o g r e s s f r o m h i s i n h e r i t e d t o h i s g e n u -

i n e c h u r c h .

M y b e l i e f i s t h a t t h e p e r s i s t e n t a n i m o s i t y a g a i n s t t h e

C a t h o l i c C h u r c h i n E n g l a n d a n d A m e r i c a i s a P r o t e s t a n t

heritage from Hi ldebr andis m . Protestantis m, having

d r o p p e d t h e i n d i v i d u a l m a n f r o m t h e c r o s s , h a s m a d e i t

t h e e n s i g n o f t h e m o s t p o w e r f u l r a c e , a n d v o w e d t h a t i t

s h a l l r e i g n f r o m s e a t o s e a . T r a d e t r a v e l s w i t h i t , a n d

p r i d e o f e m p i r e . T h e c r u c i f i x b a r s t h e w a y o f t h e c r o s s

i n m a n y r e g i o n s , a n d h a t r e d o f i t i s f o s t e r e d i n t h e d e m o -

c r a c y b y c o n s t a n t a n d v i v i d d e s c r i p t i o n s o f p a p a l o p p r e s -

s i o n s t h a t h a v e l o n g c e a s e d . I t i s t e r r i b l e t o t h i n k o f t h e

b r u t a l d i s r e g a r d b y t h e P r o t e s t a n t H i l d e b r a n d o f a l l t h e

t e n d e r n e s s a n d h a p p i n e s s i n t e r t w i n e d w i t h t h e a n c i e n t

r e l i g i o n s , a n d o f t h e c o s t t o t h e d e s t r o y e r s . When the

c r o s s r e i g n s f r o m s e a t o s e a t h o s e w h o w i n t h a t v i c t o r y

w i l l h a v e m e a n w h i l e b e c o m e w e r e w o l v e s .



CONGRESS OF FREETHINKERS 3 8 7

I n S e p t e m b e r , 1 9 0 4 , I w a s r e q u e s t e d b y t h e A m e r i c a n

U n i t e d S e c u l a r i s t S o c i e t i e s t o r e p r e s e n t t h e m a t t h e C o n -

gress of F reethinkers at Rome, and,by the Committee

o f t h a t I n t e r n a t i o n a l C o n g r e s s I w a s r e q u e s t e d t o g i v e b e -

f o r e i t a n a d d r e s s o n " Science and D ogma ." My addr ess

w a s c a r e f u l l y t r a n s l a t e d i n t o F r e n c h i n P a r i s , a n d p a r t o f

i t r e a d t o t h e C o n g r e s s b y m y f r i e n d , J o h n M . R o b e r t s o n ,

M. P . ,-y s u c c e s s o r a t S o u t h P l a c e C h a p e l , - a s I c o u l d

n o t t r u s t m y F r e n c h p r o n u n c i a t i o n n o r m y a b i l i t y t o d e a l

w i t h a c r o w d o f n e a r l y t w o t h o u s a n d i n t h e l a r g e h a l l

p r o v i d e d f o r u s b y t h e I t a l i a n g o v e r n m e n t . I h a d b e e n

e s p e c i a l l y w a r n e d b y t h e f a t e o f H a e c k e l , f r o m whose

l a r g e f o r m s o u n d s a f e e b l e v o i c e , a n d w h o s e c a r e f u l l y

p r e p a r e d G e r m a n s p e e c h w a s b e a r d b y f e w e x c e p t t h o s e

o n t h e p l a t f o r m . T h e m a n a g e r s d e m a n d e d t h a t I s h o u l d

d e l i v e r a n a d d r e s s i n E n g l i s h , w h i c h I d i d ; b u t i t s p e e d i l y

b e c a m e p l a i n t h a t t h e d e l e g a t e s f r o m F r a n c e , I t a l y , S p a i n ,

a n d m o s t o f t h o s e f r o m S w i t z e r l a n d , h a d c o m e s i m p l y f o r

a d e m o n s t r a t i o n i n f a v o u r o f t h e s e p a r a t i o n o f C h u r c h

a n d S t a t e . T h e c a r e f u l s t u d i e s o f H a e c k e l a n d R o b e r t s o n ,

a n d o f t h e e l o q u e n t C h i c a g o m i n i s t e r M a n g a s a r i a n , l i k e

m y d i s c o u r s e o n " S c i e n c e a n d D o g m a , " h a d t o f i n d t h e i r

w a y i n t o p r i n t a s t h e y c o u l d . The Chur ch and State

i s s u e b r o u g h t i n t o p l a y a p a r t y o f A n a r c h i s t s w h o w i s h e d

t o m a k e t h e i r c a u s e a r i d e r o n b o t h f r e e t h o u g h t a n d

s e p a r a t i o n . T h e A n a r c h i s t s , h o w e v e r , w e r e i n f e r i o r i n

n u m b e r s t o t h e S o c i a l i s t s , w h o s i l e n c e d t h e m a n d u l t i -

m a t e l y w e r e t h e m s e l v e s s i l e n c e d w h e n t h e y t r i e d t o u t i l i z e

t h e C o n g r e s s f o r t h e i r p r o p a g a n d a .

T h e p r o c e e d i n g s o f t h e C o n g r e s s , d a i l y r e p o r t e d i n a

C a t h o l i c j o u r n a l i n a w a y f i t t e s t t o h o r r i f y t h e P o p e , c u l -

m i n a t e d i n a p r o c e s s i o n w i t h b a n n e r s t o t h e m o n u m e n t o f

B r u n o . M y f r i e n d R o b e r t s o n a n d m y s e l f d i d n o t m a r c h



3 8 8 MY PILGRIMAGE

w i t h t h e p r o c e s s i o n , a s w e d e s i r e d t o s e e s e v e r a l c o l l e c -

t i o n s , e s p e c i a l l y t h e L a t e r a n , w h i c h w e h a d b e e n o f f i c i a l l y

i n f o r m e d w o u l d b e o p e n e d t h a t d a y . But when we arr ived

a t t h e d o o r w e f o u n d i t c l o s e d . W e managed to su mmon

t h e j a n i t o r i n s i d e , w h o o p e n e d t h e l i t t l e w i c k e t a n d a s k e d

i n I t a l i a n i f w e w e r e p i l g r i m s , - t h e r e b e i n g a t t h e t i m e a

p i l g r i m a g e f r o m s o m e c o u n t r y i n t h e c i t y . R o b e r t s o n s a i d ,

"No," a n d i m p r u d e n t l y s h o w e d o u r o f f i c i a l t i c k e t o f a d -

m i s s i o n t o a l l s u c h p l a c e s . T h e w i c k e t - s l i d e w a s s h a r p l y

c l o s e d i n o u r f a c e s , a n d w e w e n t o f f f e e l i n g t h a t w e h a d

b e e n c o n s i g n e d t o G e h e n n a b y o r d e r o f t h e v i c a r o f C h r i s t .

T h e r e w a s l i t t l e i n c o n v e n i e n c e i n t h i s e x c l u s i o n t o m y -

s e l f p e r s o n a l l y , f o r I h a d r e p e a t e d l y e x p l o r e d R o m e , b u t

R o b e r t s o n h a d n o t , a n d w e h a d t o s o o t h e o u r s e l v e s w i t h

t h e s a t i s f a c t i o n o f h a v i n g c e l e b r a t e d t h e b u r n i n g o f B r u n o

by a li ttle martyrd om of our own . There was s ome ab-

s u r d i t y i n m y o w n c a s e , a s I h a d b e e n t h e o n l y m e m b e r o f

the Congress w ho had warned the French, in my Englis h

s p e e c h , t h a t a f t e r t h e y b a d s w e p t a n d g a r n i s h e d t h e i r h o u s e ,

b e f o r e t h e m i n d o f t h e m a s s e s w a s s w e p t c l e a r o f s u p e r -

s t i t i o n s , t h e y w o u l d b e l i k e l y t o f i n d t h e i r h o u s e e n t e r e d

b y a c o m b i n a t i o n o f s e c t s l i k e t h a t v i r t u a l l y e s t a b l i s h e d

i n A m e r i c a , a n d t h e i r l a s t c a s e b e w o r s e t h a n t h e f i r s t .

O n e m a y h o p e , t h a t n o w , w h e n t h e p o l i t i c a l i s s u e w i t h

P a p a c y i s o u t o f t h e a r e n a i n F r a n c e , t h e m a n y m e n a n d

w o m e n o f g e n i u s i n t h a t n a t i o n w i l l b e a b l e t o r e c o g n i z e

m o r e c l e a r l y t h e f i n e e l e m e n t s p o t e n t i a l i n t h e i r s y s t e m , a s

t h e y a r e r e c o g n i z e d b y a g o o d m a n y f o r e i g n r a t i o n a l i s t s

who have never had c ause f or c oncern about the Pope .

None of us , I s uppose, who have been br ought up under

t h e p a r a l y z i n g S a b b a t h s , t h e h o r r i b l e d o g m a s , t h e u n d e c o -

r a t e d c h u r c h w a l l s , a n d t h e u n l o v e l y d e i t i e s o f P r o t e s t a n t

c o u n t r i e s , h a v e v i s i t e d F r a n c e w i t h o u t e n v y i n g t h e p e o p l e



CHRISTIANITY SECTARIAN 8 89

t h e i r f r e e a n d h a p p y S u n d a y , t h e i r s w e e t f e m i n i n e d e i t y ,

t h e i r c h u r c h e s s h i n i n g w i t h s a i n t l y f o r m s , t h e i r U n i v e r -

s a l i s t d o c t r i n e o f P u r g a t o r y . A s i t i s n o t t o b e s u p p o s e d

t h a t t h e p e o p l e g e n e r a l l y w i l l b e t r a n s f o r m e d i n t o R e n a n s

a n d Z o l a s , w e r e i t n o t w e l l t h a t t h e g r e a t s c h o l a r s a n d

w r i t e r s o f F r a n c e s h o u l d r e c o g n i z e t h a t t h e d i s e s t a b l i s h -

m e n t o f a w o r l d o f r e l i g i o u s u s a g e s a n d h a b i t s e v o l v e d

t h r o u g h m a n y a g e s i s i m p o s s i b l e , b u t t h a t i t i s n o t i m -

p o s s i b l e b y s y m p a t h e t i c a r t t o c u l t i v a t e t h e g o o d s e e d s

i n a n y s y s t e m . I t i s b y h u m a n a r t t h a t b r i e r s h a v e b e e n

changed to roses and these to many-l eaved ros es, and

f i n a l l y t o t h o r n l e s s r o s e s .

A g o o d m a n y y e a r s o f m y m i n i s t e r i a l l i f e w e r e p a s s e d

i n t h e d e v e l o p m e n t o f T h e i s m a s o p p o s e d t o C h r i s t i a n i t y .

T h i s w a s l a r g e l y b e c a u s e C h r i s t i a n i t y a s a s y s t e m i s s e c t -

a r i a n ; i t d e m a n d s t h e e x c l u s i o n o f a l l o t h e r r e l i g i o n s a s

u n t r u e a n d n e e d i n g t o b e s u p p l a n t e d a n d d e s t r o y e d . The

m o s t v u l g a r a n d i g n o r a n t C h r i s t i a n m u s t c o n f r o n t a C o n -

f u c i u s , a Z o r o a s t e r , a B u d d h a , w i t h , s o t o s a y , a h o l i e r -

t h a n - t h o u a t t i t u d e . The work of s ocial humanization is

t h e r e b y c o n f i n e d t o C h r i s t e n d o m a t m o s t , a n d t h e s y s t e m

t e n d s t o d e g e n e r a t i o n w i t h i n b e c a u s e m a n y o f t h e l e a r n e d

a n d t h i n k i n g d o n o t b e l i e v e i n i t a n d w i t h d r a w f r o m i t ,

a n d t h e i r l e a v e n o f s w e e t n e s s a n d l i g h t i s l o s t . My belief

i s t h a t t h e r e a l f a i t h o f e d u c a t e d C h r i s t e n d o m i s d e i s m .

T h a t w h i c h s o m a n y o f u s c o n t e n d e d f o r s e e m s t o b e i n a

s e n s e t r i u m p h a n t , b u t f o r m y s e l f i t h a s c o m e i n a d o g m a t i c

f o r m , t u r n i n g t o a s h e s o n m y l i p s .

C h r i s t J e s u s a t a n y r a t e c a r r i e s f l e s h a n d b l o o d i n t o t h e

godhead . B u t w h o o r w h a t i s t h i s c o s m i c , c r e a t i v e , o m n i -

p o t e n t , o v e r r u l i n g f o r c e r e s p o n s i b l e f o r e v e r y t h i n g i n t h i s

u n l o v a b l e u n i v e r s e ? A F r e n c h a u t h o r , d e e p l y i n t e r e s t e d

i n r e l i g i o n , r e c e n t l y t r a v e l l e d a b o u t F r a n c e i n t e r v i e w i n g



390 MY PILGRIMAGE

p e o p l e o f e v e r y r a n k a n d c o n d i t i o n a b o u t t h e i r r e l i g i o u s

i d e a s . One inc ident was an exchange of questi on and

answer w ith a poor woman hard at work . C ° May I ask

what is your idea of God?" "He has never shown any

c o n c e r n a b o u t m e , a n d I d o n ' t s e e w h y I s h o u l d c o n c e r n

myself about him . " P r o b a b l y i n t h e l i t t l e s h a n t y o f t h i s

humbl e woman there looked f rom the wall a holy mother

a n d b a b e o r a c r u c i f i e d f r i e n d , a n d t h e s i m p l e r e p l y s h e

gave held in it the secr et of those tender di vinities .

S o d i d m a n k i n d t u r n f r o m t h e c o l d a n d d i s t a n t d e i t i e s ,

u n c o n c e r n e d a b o u t t h e i r a g o n i e s , t o w e a k a n d s o r r o w f u l

d e i t i e s c o m p a s s i o n a t e l y r e g a r d i n g t h e m . They love him

b e c a u s e h e f i r s t l o v e d t h e m .

The primitive Hi ndu cosmic Pantheism br oke up grad-

u a l l y i n t o m u l t i t u d i n o u s d i v i n i t i e s , s o t h a t e a c h h e a r t a n d

h o m e c a n c h e r i s h i t s i d e a l b e i n g .

One Sunday evening in Pari s I went to the Gaiete-

M o n t p a r n a s s e , a c h e a p p o p u l a r t h e a t r e , a n d w i t n e s s e d a

s p e c t a c u l a r r e v u e i n w h i c h l o c a l e v e n t s a r e r i d i c u l e d o r

c e l e b r a t e d i n t r a v e s t y , t a b l e a u , a n d d a n c e . It was all

p r e t t y a n d m u s i c a l , b u t a s u c c e s s i o n o f t r i v i a l j e s t s a n d

s c e n e s , s o m e o f t h e m a u d a c i o u s . I n o n e s c e n e a r e p u l s i v e

tramp appears and infor ms the gaily dr essed c ommere

a n d c o m p e r e o f t h e r e p a i r s o n a b r i d g e w h i c h d e p r i v e h i m

o f h i s o n l y s l e e p i n g p l a c e u n d e r o n e o f i t s a r c h e s . A

w r e t c h e d w o m a n t h e n e n t e r s a n d c o m p l a i n s o f s o m e o t h e r

r e p a i r s w h i c h d e p r i v e d h e r o f h e r c h i e f h a u n t . The com-

pere and commere shr ink away from the brazen woman

a n d t h e t h i e f . T h e n s l o w l y m o v i n g f r o m b e h i n d t h e s c e n e

a p p e a r s t h e w h i t e - r o b e d J e s u s . T h e v a s t a u d i e n c e , w h i c h

h a d b e e n r o a r i n g w i t h l a u g h t e r a n d a t t i m e s c a l l i n g o u t

t o f a v o u r i t e f i g u r a n t e s , s u d d e n l y , o n t h e a p p e a r a n c e o f



A MONTPARNASSE CHRIST 3 9 1

uL e C h r i s t , " w a s b r e a t h l e s s l y s i l e n t

. J e s u s - a b e a u t i f u l

fi gure-s tandi ng between the man and woman, said to

t h e a u d i e n c e , " T h e s e a r e t h e p e o p l e y o u c r e a t e b y y o u r

p a s s i o n s a n d y o u r s e l f i s h n e s s , a n d t h e n s h r i n k f r o m ! " In

t h i s g r a v e w a y h e b e g a n , w i t h l o w v o i c e , b u t g r a d u a l l y h i s

w o r d s g r e w p a s s i o n a t e , h i s r e b u k e o f i n h u m a n i t y p a t h e t i c

a n d a l m o s t i n t o n e d . T h e n h e p a u s e d , a n d s i l e n t l y m o v i n g

t o w a r d s t h e m i s e r a b l e t w o p l a c e d h i s a r m s a r o u n d t h e i r

n e c k s a n d b e t w e e n t h e m s l o w l y w a l k e d o f f t h e s t a g e . That

w a s t h e e n d . T h e c u r t a i n f e l l . B u t t h e c r o w d w o u l d n o t

l e a v e . A f t e r a f e w m o m e n t s o f a w e d s i l e n c e t h e y s h o u t e d

" L e C h r i s t ! L e C h r i s t ! " s o l o n g t h a t t h e c u r t a i n r o s e

a g a i n a n d t h e w h i t e - r o b e d f i g u r e w a s s e e n a g a i n g a z i n g o n

t h e t r a m p a n d t h e b a g - w h o a t f i r s t h a d b e e n b r a z e n b u t

n o w h u n g t h e i r b e a d s .

T h a t J e s u s f r o m a M o n t p a r n a s s e m a n g e r w a s n o t f o r -

g e t t a b l e l i k e t h e a u t o m a t i c C h r i s t a t O b e r a m m e r g a u . His

r a i m e n t a n d p a r t e d f l o w i n g h a i r w e r e j u s t a r t i s t i c a l l y

c o n v e n t i o n a l e n o u g h f o r r e c o g n i t i o n b y a l l . H e r e c i t e d

n o t e x t , m a d e n o a l l u s i o n t o t h e s i n s o f a n c i e n t t r i b e s ,

b u t w i t h o u t c a n t s p o k e t o t h e L a t i n Q u a r t e r , a n d t o u c h e d

e v e r y h e a r t b y a s i m p l e a p p e a l f o r j u s t i c e a n d c o n s i d e r -

a t i o n f o r a l l , h o w e v e r d e g r a d e d .

M y E n g l i s h o r A m e r i c a n r e a d e r m a y f e e l t h a t t h e i n -

t r o d u c t i o n o f J e s u s a m i d s u c h f r i v o l i t y w a s o b j e c t i o n a b l e .

But my c ompanions -J ohn and Kate Macdonald, s erious

E n g l i s h w r i t e r s -f e l t w i t h m e t h a t m u c h o f t h e c h a r m

w a s d u e t o c o n t r a s t w i t h t h e c a r i c a t u r e s a n d s p a r k l i n g

a u d a c i t i e s o f t h e r e v u e . T h e a g e d F a u s t i n h i s c l o i s t e r ,

o n E a s t e r D a y , h e a r s t h e y o u n g ' p e o p l e o u t s i d e s i n g i n g

" C h r i s t i s r i s e n ! " a n d r e f l e c t s t h a t t h e y t h e m s e l v e s h a v e

r i s e n ,-u t o f t h e i r h o v e l s a n d w o r k s h o p s , -a n d w i l l

h a v e t h e h o l i d a y f r o l i c . The Gaiete-Montparnasse was



3 92 MY PILGRIMAGE

crowd ed wi th the poor, who for that glad Sunday even-

i n g h a d r i s e n f r o m t h e d e n s o f d r u d g e r y a n d s e e n b e a u t i -

f u l a c t r e s s e s a n d c o s t u m e s , a n d h e a r d m e r r y s o n g s , a n d i t

w a s f i t t i n g t h a t t h e h u m a n l y h a l o e d m a n s h o u l d b e t h e r e

t o r e m i n d e a c h t h a t h e o r s h e m u s t d i f f u s e g l a d n e s s , a n d

p r e s s n o t h o r n s o n a n y h e a d .

Jesus wil l remain in the popular mind and share its

development, whether upward or downward . The "b on

s a n s c u l o t t e " o f t h e R e v o l u t i o n , b r i n g i n g n o t p e a c e b u t a

s w o r d , t h e c a r p e n t e r , t h e c o m m u n i s t , t h e h a t e r o f p r i e s t -

hood, as may be demanded politically, he will als o be

i d e a l l y t h e h o l y b a b e i n e v e r y m o t h e r ' s a r m s , t h e b r i n g e r

o f p e a c e o n e a r t h a n d g o o d w i l l t o m e n , t h e s a v i o u r o f

t h e s u f f e r i n g a n d t h e f a l l e n . T h e h i g h e r c r i t i c i s m w i l l

n e v e r r e a c h t h e J e s u s o f p o p u l a r i m a g i n a t i o n ; t h e i d e a l

h a s s t r u c k t o o d e e p-t h a s b e e n a d o p t e d b y t h e l a w o f

n a t u r a l s e l e c t i o n . We c an hope to make it mor e and

m o r e a s o u r c e o f j u s t i c e , k i n d n e s s , a n d h a p p i n e s s .

A n d e v e n i n t h e l e g e n d s t h a t s e e m t o s c e p t i c s c r u e l t h e

h u m a n h e a r t o f t e n h i v e s s w e e t n e s s . O n e o f m y p i l g r i m a g e s

w a s t o t h e S a l p e t r i b r e h o s p i t a l i n P a r i s , u n d e r t h e g u i d -

a n c e o f a s p e c i a l i s t i n e p i l e p s y . T h e c a s e s i n w h i c h I w a s

i n t e r e s t e d w e r e t h o s e o f w h i c h I h a d b e a r d a s o f a r e l i -

g i o u s t y p e . T h e s e w e r e a l l w o m e n a n d o f t h e h u m b l e c l a s s .

O n e I s a w , a s w e p a s s e d t h r o u g h t h e i r w a r d , s i t t i n g w i t h

u p l i f t e d e y e s a n d c l a s p e d h a n d s , a s i f i n b e a t i t u d e . T he

most interesting case w as that of a c omely woman who

o n c e e v e r y w e e k u n d e r w e n t a s o r t o f c r u c i f i x i o n . This I

d i d n o t w i t n e s s , b u t t h e p h y s i c i a n d e s c r i b e d i t a n d g a v e

m e p h o t o g r a p h s r e p r e s e n t i n g e v e r y s t a g e o f t h e s t r a n g e

c o n v u l s i o n . T h e c r u c i f i x i o n g e n e r a l l y l a s t e d t h r e e h o u r s ,

b u t s o m e t i m e s n e a r l y a l l d a y , - a n d d u r i n g t h e t i m e t h e

w o m a n ' s a t t i t u d e r e p r o d u c e d c l o s e l y t h e c o n v e n t i o n a l p i e -



AN EPILEPTIC CRUCIFIXION 3 9 3

t u r e o f t h e c h u r c h e s . E v e n o n e f o o t w a s p l a c e d u p o n t h e

o t h e r a n d t h e r e r i g i d l y r e m a i n e d a s i f a s p i k e w e r e d r i v e n

t h r o u g h t h e t w o . W h e n I e x p r e s s e d s o m e h o r r o r t h a t t h e

young woman should u ndergo suc h agony the physic ian

t o l d m e t h a t m y s y m p a t h y w a s m i s p l a c e d . W h e n s h e f i r s t

c a m e s h e h a d l a i n i n t h e r i g i d a t t i t u d e o v e r f o u r h o u r s ,

then waked as from a dr eam, and excl aimed : " W h e r e

am I? I h a v e b e e n s o h a p p y u p t h e r e ! I t w a s s o b e a u t i -

fu l!" When ask ed what she had seen, she answ ered

" I w a s i n h e a v e n a m i d d a z z l i n g l i g h t . T h e r e w a s a m e a -

d o w a n d l i t t l e S t . J o h n w i t h c u r l y s h e e p . T h e r e w e r e s h i n -

i n g d i a m o n d s , p i c t u r e s , s t a r s o f a l l c o l o u r s . Our Lord had

l o n g c h e s t n u t h a i r , c u r l i n g , a n d a g r a n d r e d b e a r d . H e i s

b e a u t i f u l , l a r g e , s t r o n g , a l l i n g o l d . T h e h o l y V i r g i n i s i n

s i l v e r . O u r L o r d s p o k e t o m e b u t I c a n n o t r e m e m b e r h i s

words . I d i d n o t a n s w e r h i m , f o r I w a s d u m b . "

S u c h w a s t h e b l i s s g o i n g o n f o u r h o u r s u n d e r a n e x t e r i o r

o f p r o t r a c t e d a g o n y . I n s u c h a t y p e , a s t h r o u g h a s m a l l

c r e v i c e , o n e m a y s e e , d o w n a l o n g v i s t a o f s e l f - i n f l i c t e d

m a r t y r d o m s , t h e e v o l u t i o n o f t h e c u l t o f p a i n a n d s o r r o w

a s t h e p o r t a l t o p a r a d i s e . T h e H i n d u s a y i n g w a s , " C o o l

t o t h e w i d o w ' s b r e a s t i s t h e f l a m e o f h e r h u s b a n d ' s p y r e . "

B u t t h e w i d o w - b u r n i n g h a s c e a s e d , a n d h u m a n s a c r i f i c e s

s e e m t o b e n o w c o n f i n e d t o C h r i s t e n d o m . " W i t h o u t t h e

s h e d d i n g o f b l o o d t h e r e i s n o r e m i s s i o n o f s i n s " i s t h e

c o n s e c r a t i o n o f a l l v i o l e n c e ,-a r , l y n c h i n g s , r e v o l u t i o n s .

I n s o c i a l l i f e e d u c a t e d p e o p l e d o n o t s a c r i f i c e t h e m s e l v e s

r e a l l y , b u t m a n y o f t h e m h a v e a n o t i o n t h a t " c r o s s e s " a r e

g o o d f o r t h e m a s s e s t o b e a r , a n d h e n c e t h e w e e k l y e p i l e p t i c

c r u c i f i x i o n o f E n g l a n d a n d A m e r i c a o n t h e S a b b a t h . ,

i F r a n c e , t o o , h a s n o w ( 1 9 0 6 ) a d o p t e d a h e b d o m a i r e d a y o f r e s t f r o m

l a b o u r , -from noon Sunday to noon Monday, -o b l i g a t o r y o n e m p l o y e r s .

B u t e v e r y i n d i v i d u a l i s f r e e t o w o r k o r p l a y d u r i n g t h a t t i m e , a n d i n d e e d



3 9 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

I f - s o m e o f t h e v i o l e n t i n v e c t i v e a s c r i b e d t o C h r i s t w e r e

genuine there woul d b e some ground for the charge of

c a s t i n g o u t d e v i l s b y B e e l z e b u b . I t i s n o t , h o w e v e r , i n

l a n g u a g e b u t i n s p i r i t a n d m e t h o d t h a t t h e p o s s e s s e d a n d

t h e p r e p o s s e s s e d a r e m a d e m a n i f e s t . I had a talk w ith

the famous c ommunis t Louis e Michel after her return

f r o m e x i l e . I n her homely and stormbeaten countenance

t h e l o o k o f t h e b e a t i f i e d e p i l e p t i c w a s v i s i b l e i n p e r f e c t

s w e e t n e s s , b u t i n h e r p l e a d i n g f o r a s o c i a l i s m i n v o l v i n g t h e

d e s t r u c t i o n o f C h r i s t i a n i t y t h e c r u c i f i e d e p i l e p t i c w a s a p -

p a r e n t . K r o p o t k i n a n d G o r k i , i n R u s s i a , a n d t h e S o c i a l -

i s t s e v e r y w h e r e a r e l a b o u r i n g f o r t h e e a r l y C h r i s t i a n c o m -

mune and mil lennium under an antic hris tian flag. They

w o u l d t a k e i t b y v i o l e n c e . T h e y w o u l d s e a t o n t h e t h r o n e

o f A u t h o r i t y a m u l t i - m i l l i o n - a r m e d d e s p o t i s m o f m a s s e s

u n d e r w h i c h i n d i v i d u a l l i b e r t y w o u l d b e i m p o s s i b l e . '

t h e m a i n o b j e c t o f t h e n e w l a w i s t o e n a b l e t h e w o r k p e o p l e t o e n j o y t h e

S u n d a y t h e a t r e s a n d t h e s p o r t s .

1 A F r e n c h j o u r n a l , r e f e r r i n g ( 1 9 0 6 ) t o t h e s o - c a l l e d " r e v o l u t i o n " i n

R u s s i a , s a i d : " T h e r e i s t o o m u c h T o l s t o i i n t h e R u s s i a n m a s s e s a n d t o o

m u c h N i e t s c h e i n t h e i r m a s t e r s . " T o l s t o i , w h i l e r e j e c t i n g t h e A p o s t l e s '

C r e e d , h a s w i t h a p o s t o l i c f e r v o u r i n s i s t e d o n t h e p r i m i t i v e c o m m u n i s m

w h i c h i s t h e c o r r o l l a r y o f t h a t c r e e d . H e h a s r a i s e d b e f o r e t h e i g n o r a n t

m a s s e s v i s i o n s w h i c h c a n n o t b e r e a l i z e d w i t h o u t e v e r y o w n e r o f p r o p e r t y

f a l l i n g l i k e A n a n i a s a n d S a p p h i r a . I t i s d o u b t f u l i f T o l s t o i h i m s e l f i s n o t

k e e p i n g b a c k p a r t o f t h e p r i c e i B e i n g a m a n o f p e a c e h e i s a p p a l l e d b y

t h e v i o l e n c e c a u s e d b y h i s r e t e n t i o n o f a p r i m i t i v e c o m m u n i s m w h i c h i s

a n i n t e g r a l p a r t o f t h e m i r a c u l o u s s y s t e m h e r e j e c t s . T h e g r e a t w r i t e r

h a s s a d l y m i s l e d t h e y o u t h e v e r y w h e r e w h o h a v i n g a b a n d o n e d o l d c r e e d s

s t i l l l o n g t o b e l i e v e i n s o m e t h i n g . Among the instances I have p erson-

ally known one is that of a young woman who belonged to South Place

S o c i e t y , L o n d o n . I n o n e o f m y d i s c o u r s e s I a l l u d e d t o t h e a n c i e n t n o t i o n

t h a t t h e H o l y G h o s t n e v e r p a r d o n e d . The si n of Ananias and Sapphira

w a s n o t , a s P e t e r e x p l a i n e d , k e e p i n g t h e i r p r o p e r t y b u t " l y i n g t o t h e

Holy Ghost ." The woman waited f or me at the chapel door ; she was

r e a d y t o g i v e u p t h e w h o l e N e w T e s t a m e n t e x c e p t p a r t o f A c t s i v a n d v .

S h e b e l i e v e d h e r s e l f a f r e e t h i n k e r , b u t t h a t A n a n i a s a n d S a p p h i r a p e r i s h e d ,



HUMAN SACRIFICE 395

G u i z o t d e s c r i b e d h i m s e l f a s a r e p u b l i c a n w h o b e l i e v e d

i n n o r e p u b l i c . ° " T h e r e p u b l i c b e g i n s w i t h P l a t o a n d e n d s

i n t h e p o l i c e m a n . "

T h i s p o l i c e m a n , w h o m e t e s o u t t o e v e r y c i t i z e n h i s m e a -

s u r e o f f r e e d o m a n d t h r a l d o m , i s t h e i g n o r a n t , v u l g a r

c r e a t u r e o f t h e m a n y - h e a d e d m e d i o c r i t y a r o u n d h i m . H e

i s t h e a g e n t o f t h e a g g r e g a t e a p e h o o d s u r v i v i n g i n h u -

m a n s o c i e t y i n t h e i r d e t e r m i n a t i o n t h a t n o v a r i a t i o n s h a l l

b e t o l e r a t e d .

G o l d w i n S m i t h f e a r s t h a t t h e d e c a y o f f a i t h m a y b e

f o l l o w e d b y a d e c l i n e o f m o r a l i t y , b u t m y o l d f r i e n d m a y

d e p e n d o n t h e p o l i c e m a n f o r t h e p r o t e c t i o n o f t h e v i r t u e s

o f m e d i o c r i t y , e s p e c i a l l y f r o m t h o s e w h o w o u l d e l e v a t e o r

l i b e r a l i z e t h e m . T h e g r a n d p u b l i c i s t o f T o r o n t o b e l o n g s

to a generation whose standard of mor ality d emanded

s e l f - t r u t h f u l n e s s ,-i n d e p e n d e n c e i n t h o u g h t , s p e e c h , a n d

a c t i o n , - j u s t i c e , - p r o t e c t i o n o f t h e w e a k a n d l o w l y , -

d e f e n c e o f p e a c e . I t i s b u r i e d i n t h e g r a v e s o f B o e r s ,

F i l i p i n o s , l y n c h e d n e g r o e s , - b e y o n d t h e r e a c h o f h e l p o r

ha rm .

W e r e m y p u b l i c m i n i s t r y t o b e g i n a g a i n , I s h o u l d a s -

s u m e t h a t t h e o l d t h e o l o g i c a l i d e a s e x i s t n o m o r e i n m i n d s

c a p a b l e o f i d e a s , b u t m a k e f o r t h e n e s t s i n w h i c h t h e o v a

o f d e f u n c t s u p e r s t i t i o n s a r e b r e d i n t o l i v i n g w r o n g s . These

n e s t s a r e i n t h e n e r v e s , i n t i m i d c o m p l a i s a n c e , i n t h e t o r -

p o r o f h a b i t , t h e d r e a d o f i s o l a t i o n , w h i c h l e a d t h e l e a d e r s

t o a c o n f o r m i t y w i t h t h e r i t u a l o f h u m a n s a c r i f i c e . F or

e v e r y s a c r i f i c e i s a h u m a n s a c r i f i c e , - b e i t s a c r i f i c e o f

r e a s o n , v e r a c i t y , m o r a l f r e e d o m , p l e a s u r e , h a p p i n e s s , o r

o f t h e s e n s e s , - a n d i m p l i e s a l o w a n d m e a n c o n c e p t i o n

j u s t l y a l b e i t m y s t e r i o u s l y , f o r t h e u n s p e a k a b l e c r i m e o f k e e p i n g b a c k

money pledged to their commune . S h e n e v e r e n t e r e d m y c h a p e l a g a i n .



396 MY PILGRIMAGE

o f d e i t y . " I a m c o m e t o e n d t h e s a c r i f i c e s , " s a i d J e s u s .

They are offerings to Abaddon-to Wrath . L o v e n e e d s

n o c o n c i l i a t i o n .

I s t h e r e n o c o u r a g e o u s y o u n g o r a t o r i n t h e o r t h o d o x

p u l p i t t o t a k e u p t h i s r e c o v e r e d G o s p e l o f J e s u s ? I t d o e s

n o t r e q u i r e a w h i p o f s m a l l c o r d s , - t h e r e a r e n o a n i m a l s

t o b e d r i v e n f r o m t h e t e m p l e , - b u t i t i s h u m a n b e i n g s w h o

n e e d t h e b r i n g e r o f t i d i n g s o f J o y. T h e o t h e r d a y a y o u n g

a n d v a l i a n t P r e s b y t e r i a n i n A m e r i c a , o f p o e t i c i n s i g h t a n d

f i n e c u l t u r e , V a n D y k e b y n a m e , c o n f r o n t e d a n d w i t h s o f t

i n v i n c i b i l i t y l e d o u t o f t h a t C o n f e s s i o n a d o g m a o f p r e -

d e s t i n a t i o n w h i c h h a d p r e y e d v a m p i r e - l i k e o n t h e h e a r t s

o f p a r e n t s a n d c h i l d r e n f o r e i g h t g e n e r a t i o n s . A revo-

l u t i o n g e n t l e a s t h a t o f t h e e a r t h p a s s i n g f r o m w i n t e r

s n o w s t o s u m m e r b l o s s o m s , a v i c t o r y i n w h i c h t h e w i n t r y

a n t a g o n i s t s a r e e q u a l l y v i c t o r i o u s , i s a s h i n i n g r e v e l a t i o n

i n o u r d a r k t i m e o f t h e s t r e n g t h t h a t d w e l l s i n a r i g h t

a n d t r u e m a n i n s p i r e d b y a l o n g i n g t o s a v e h u m a n s o u l s

f r o m r e a l a n d p r e s e n t t o r m e n t s .

N o w l e t a c h o r u s b e h e a r d i n t h e c h u r c h e s , -s t o p t h e

s a c r i f i c e s ! C e a s e t o i m m o l a t e o n e s e v e n t h o f h u m a n t i m e

t o t h e s a b b a t h i d o l ! U n b i n d t h o s e h e a r t s f e t t e r e d o n t h e

m a r r i a g e a l t a r b y c h a i n s f o r g e d o u t o f a n t i q u a t e d n o t i o n s

o f d i v o r c e ! S t o p b e a t i n g t h a t c h i l d w i t h a r o d f r o m s o m e

a n c i e n t p r o v e r b , i n s t r u c t i n g h i m t o b e a t o t h e r s s m a l l e r

t h a n h i m s e l f ! C e a s e t o s a c r i f i c e s o c i a l w e l f a r e a n d j u s t i c e

t o a b a r b a r i c t e x t e n j o i n i n g t h e p u n i s h m e n t o f a m u r d e r e r

b y i m i t a t i n g h i m ! C e a s e t o c a l l l o v e a n d g e n e r o s i t y " s e l f -

s a c r i f i c e , " - s w e e p a l l t h e s e s a c r i f i c i a l s a v a g e r i e s o u t o f

g o o d h e a r t s a n d h e a l t h y m i n d s , a n d o u t o f o u r l a n g u a g e ,

s o t h a t t h e w o m a n m a y f i n d f a i r m e a s u r e s o f h o n e s t m e a l

i n w h i c h t o m i n g l e h e r l e a v e n o f c i v i l i z a t i o n ! T h e r e i s n o

o t h e r h o p e o f a b e t t e r w o r l d .



SUNSHINE IN RELIGION 8 9 7

O ne of the " Cowl ey Br others" at Poonah, I ndia,-

Mr. C o n g r e v e , - i s r e p o r t e d a s p r e a c h i n g a n e w d o c t r i n e

c a l l e d " S e l f - a n a t o m i z a t i o n . " T h e i n d e f i n i t e n e s s o f t h e

p h r a s e i s d e f i n i t i v e , i n a s e n s e : s u c h f a m i l i a r p h r a s e s a s

" s e l f - e x a m i n a t i o n , " " s e l f - de n i a l , " " s e l f - s a cr i f i ce , " c o ul d

o n l y h a v e b e e n s e t a s i d e f o r s o m e n e w v a r i e t y o f s e l f -

i m m o l a t i o n . B u t a f t e r a l l , w h y c a l l t h e s e i n v e s t m e n t s o f

b o d i l y h e a l t h a n d p l e a s u r e f o r s p l e n d i d f u t u r e s , - w h y

c a l l t h e m " s e l f - s a c r i f i c e ? " T h e a n c i e n t H i n d u s o f f e r e d

s a c r i f i c e s t o p l a c a t e o n e o r a n o t h e r a d v e r s a r y o f m a n , -

o r w h a t m a y b e p l a i n l y c a l l e d d e v i l s ,-n d i t i s a s t r a n g e

a n o m a l y t h a t l e a r n e d A n g l i c a n s s h o u l d b e t h e f i r s t t o

c a r r y t o I n d i a a d e i t y d e m a n d i n g s a c r i f i c e s o f h u m a n h a p -

p i n e s s !

T h e o l d M e t h o d i s t a i m w a s t o s e c u r e t h e b l i s s o f s o u l s ,

n o t o n l y i n a n o t h e r w o r l d b u t i n t h i s , a n d w e u s e d t o c o n -

s i d e r e v e r y s e r m o n g o o d t h a t e l i c i t e d j o y f u l e x c l a m a t i o n s .

I r e m e m b e r p r e a c h i n g o n t h e a n e c d o t e o f a s c e p t i c w h o

fou nd a negro woman -a s l a v e-i n g i n g a h y m n l o u d l y

w h i l e a t w o r k . " W h a t a r e y o u s i n g i n g f o r , a u n t y ? " he

a s k e d . " ' C a u s e J e s u s m a k e m y s o u l h a p p y . " " S o u l ! w h y

y o u h a v e n ' t a n y s o u l , -n o b o d y h a s . " " W e l l , m a s s a , J e s u s

make my bod y happy . "

T h e C h r i s t m a s c a r o l h e a r d i n c h i l d h o o d - t h e a n g e l ' s

song-G l a d t i d i n g s o f g r e a t j o y I b r i n g ,

To you and all mankind-g a v e m e a s t a n d a r d o f e v e r y r e l i g i o n ; and having de-

t a c h e d C a t h o l i c i s m f r o m a l l p o l i t i c a l q u e s t i o n s , I l o n g

a g o f o u n d t h a t t h e r e w a s i n i t a s a f a i t h m o r e s u n s h i n e

t h a n i n t h e a v e r a g e P r o t e s t a n t i s m .

N a t h a n i e l H a w t h o r n e ' s n o t e s i n R o m e r e v e a l h i m s e l f

a s a f i g u r e s t r i k i n g a s a n y n o v e l h e e v e r w r o t e . H e had



398 MY PILGRIMAGE

b e e n s o c r u s h e d b y t h e c r u e l t y o f h i s a n c e s t o r s i n N e w

England to Quak ers and " w i t c h e s " t h a t , e x c e p t a t h i s

m a r r i a g e , h e c o u l d n e v e r b e p e r s u a d e d t o e n t e r a c h u r c h

i n A m e r i c a . I n R o m e h e s e e s r e l i g i o n i l l u s t r a t e d b y a r t

a n d l a m e n t s t h a t " P r o t e s t a n t i s m s h o u l d h a v e e n t i r e l y l a i d

a s i d e t h i s m e t h o d o f a p p e a l i n g t o t h e r e l i g i o u s s e n t i m e n t . "

He s eems unable, however, to r ecognize the Madonna .

I n t h e S i s t i n e C h a p e l ' h e i s t r o u b l e d b y M i c h e l A n g e l o ' s

Last Ju dgment . " A b o v e s i t s J e s u s , n o t l o o k i n g i n t h e

l e a s t l i k e t h e S a v i o u r o f t h e w o r l d , b u t , w i t h u p l i f t e d a r m ,

denounc ing eternal miser y on those whom He came to

s a v e . I f e a r I a m m y s e l f a m o n g t h e w i c k e d , f o r I f o u n d

m y s e l f i n e v i t a b l y t a k i n g t h e i r p a r t , a n d a s k i n g f o r a t

l e a s t a l i t t l e p i t y , s o m e f e w r e g r e t s , a n d n o t s u c h a s t e r n ,

d e n u n c i a t o r y s p i r i t o n t h e p a r t o f H i m w h o h a d t h o u g h t

u s w o r t h d y i n g f o r . " H a w t h o r n e i s c o n s o l e d a t F l o r e n c e

b y t h e J e s u s o f F r a A n g e l i c o ' s 1 ° Last J ud gment . "

" A b o v e s i t s J e s u s , w i t h t h e t h r o n g o f b l e s s e d s a i n t s

a r o u n d H i m , a n d a f l o w o f t e n d e r a n d p o w e r f u l l o v e i n

H i s o w n f a c e , t h a t o u g h t t o s u f f i c e t o r e d e e m a l l t h e

d a m n e d , a n d c o n v e r t t h e v e r y f i e n d s , a n d q u e n c h t h e f i r e s

o f h e l l . A t a n y r a t e , F r a A n g e l i c o h a d a h i g h e r c o n c e p -

t i o n o f h i s S a v i o u r t h a n M i c h e l A n g e l o . "

New E ngland Protestantism had not only depr iv ed

Haw thorne - i t s f i r s t i m a g i n a t i v e g e n i u s - o f t h e p i c t o -

r i a l g o s p e l w h i c h a l o n e c o u l d m o v e h i m , b u t o f t h e e y e s

f o r i n t e r p r e t i n g t h e h e a r t o f t h a t g o s p e l w h e n a t f i f t y -

e i g h t i t w a s b e f o r e h i m . F o r t h e s o u l o f M i c h e l A n g e l o ' s

L a s t J u d g m e n t i s n o t t h e w r a t h f u l j u d g e , b u t h i s m o t h e r ,

f u l l o f c o m p a s s i o n , r e s t r a i n i n g t h e w r a t h . P r o t e s t a n t i s m

h a d e l i m i n a t e d t h e M a d o n n a b u t g r a d u a l l y t r a n s f e r r e d

h e r c o m p a s s i o n a t e n e s s t o J e s u s , w h o s e f e m i n i n e f a c e a n d

h a i r a r e c o n v e n t i o n a l i z e d i n m o d e r n p i c t u r e s . A n d a f t e r



THE EVERYDAY MADONNA 399

l o o k i n g a t F r a A n g e l i c o ' s p i c t u r e o f t h e L a s t J u d g m e n t ,

b l e s s i n g t h o s e o n h i s r i g h t , H a w t h o r n e d o e s n o t d o u b t

t h a t t h e b e n i g n i t y i n c l u d e s t h e d a m n e d . T h a t w a s q u i t e

i n a c c o r d w i t h t h e J e s u s o f N e w E n g l a n d U n i v e r s a l i s m ,

a n d H a w t h o r n e h a d n o e y e s t o s e e o r e v e n l o o k f o r t h e

c o n p a n i o n p i c t u r e n e a r b y i n w h i c h F r a A n g e l i c o p a i n t e d

J e s u s t u r n i n g t o t h e w i c k e d o n t h e l e f t , h i s f a c e d i s t o r t e d

w i t h a n g e r .

C r i t i c s m a y d o u b t w h e t h e r J e s u s w a s t h e s o n o f M a r y ,

b u t i t i s c e r t a i n t h a t t h e g e n t l e a n d l o v i n g a n d h u m a n e

J e s u s i s t h e c h i l d o f t h e M a d o n n a . I t i s s h e w h o h a s

g i v e n c u l t u r e d P r o t e s t a n t i s m e y e s u n a b l e , like Haw-

t h o r n ' s , t o s e e a C h r i s t c r y i n g , " D e p a r t , y e c u r s e d , i n t o

e v e r l a s t i n g f i r e , " a n d " H e t h a t b a t h n o s w o r d l e t h i m s e l l

h i s c l o a k a n d b u y o n e , " a n d " I c a m e n o t t o s e n d p e a c e

b u t a s w o r d . " I t i s n o t ' ° H i g h e r C r i t i c i s m " t h a t h a s d i -

v e s t e d J e s u s o f s u c h t r a p p i n g s o f a n c i e n t w a r - g o d s , b u t

the Madonna .

Calv in and Luther and J ohn Knox, and the Puri tans

i n E n g l a n d a n d A m e r i c a , i n s t e a d o f b u i l d i n g u p t h e i r

r e v o l u t i o n a g a i n s t P a p a c y o n t h e m a t e r n a l a n d f e m i n i n e

p r i n c i p l e , r e s t o r e d t h e t h r o n e o f t h e m a n o f w a r , J e h o v a h ,

a n d s e t f o r t h t h e O l d T e s t a m e n t w i t h i t s f e r o c i t i e s a s t h e

w o r d o f Go d . The innumerable wars f ollowed and the

n a t i o n s o r g a n i z e d b y a n d f o r b l o o d s h e d a n d c o n q u e s t .

C i v i l i z a t i o n m e a n s t h e b o u n d l e s s d o m i n a t i o n o v e r t h e

e a r t h . T h o s e w h o r e g a r d a l l t h i s a s r e t r o g r e s s i o n , d e t e -

r i o r a t i o n , a n d t h e s p r e a d o f m i s e r y , a r e s t i l l n o t l e f t h e l p -

l e s s a n d h o p e l e s s . F o r w o m a n , w i t h h e r l e a v e n o f l o v e ,

h e r b e a u t y a n d c h a r m , i s s t i l l i n t h e e a r t h , a n d b y h e r

e x c l u s i o n f r o m a r m i e s , n a v i e s , p o l i t i c a l f u n c t i o n s a n d e c -

c l e s i a s t i c a l s h a m s i s e n a b l e d t o b u i l d b e a u t i f u l h o m e s a n d

h a p p y s o c i e t i e s . T h e s e M a d o n n a s o f e v e r y d a y l i f e h a v e



4 0 0 MY PILGRIMAGE

s t e a d i l y h u m a n i z e d t h e i r C h r i s t , a n d i n t h e c l o i s t e r a s

w e l l a s i n w o r l d l y s o c i e t y a f o r c e f i n e r t h a n t h a t c a l l e d

v i r i l e i s s t e a d i l y e v o l v e d .

I vi si ted the ancient Convent of Marmoutier near

T o u r s , m a i n l y t o s e e t h e g r a v e s o f t h e S e v e n S l e e p e r s . I

c a r r i e d a g o o d n o t e o f i n t r o d u c t i o n , a n d a n I r i s h l a d y

c a m e o u t t o b e m y g u i d e . S h e w a s o n l y a b o u t t h i r t y , b u t ,

as I unders tood, the abb ess of the Englis h-speaking

s i s t e r s o f t h e c o n v e n t . She was l arge and handsome,

a l s o c h e e r f u l a n d v e r y i n t e l l i g e n t . When we had pa s s e d

t h r o u g h t h e b e a u t i f u l g a r d e n a n d g r o u n d s t o t h e g r o t t o

w i t h i t s s e v e n c o f f i n - s h a p e d o p e n a n d e m p t y g r a v e s s h e

t o l d m e t h e i r l o c a l v e r s i o n o f t h e l e g e n d : t h e e a r l i e r l e g e n d

o f t h e S e v e n S l e e p e r s o f E p h e s u s b a d t r a v e l l e d i n t o c e n -

tral France in the form of pi lgrims f rom the East who

came to s ee St. Martin, w ho gave them the sacr ament,

w h i c h w h e n t h e y d i e d p r e s e r v e d t h e i r b o d i e s f r o m d e c a y .

I w a s c a r e f u l n o t t o i n q u i r e t o o f a r , b u t l o o k e d u p f r o m

the empty graves to the active woman before me, who-a s I w e l l k n e w b y t w o s u m m e r s p a s s e d i n t h a t n e i g h b o u r -

hood-e p r e s e n t e d a S i s t e r h o o d s l e e p l e s s l y w a t c h i n g o v e r

a l l s u f f e r e r s a r o u n d t h e m . I spoke to her of the noble

s e r v i c e s r e n d e r e d b y h e r l a d i e s t w o o r t h r e e y e a r s b e f o r e

t o t h e w o u n d e d s o l d i e r s , b o t h F r e n c h a n d G e r m a n , a n d t o

t h e s u f f e r i n g f a m i l i e s o f t h a t r e g i o n . She gave me some

a c c o u n t o f t h e t e r r i b l e t r i a l s t h e y h a d p a s s e d t h r o u g h ,

w i t h t h e r o u g h s o l d i e r s p a s s i n g a b o u t t h e i r g r o u n d s , b u t

n e v e r r o u g h e n o u g h , i t s e e m e d , t o i n v a d e t h e a s y l u m o f

t h e S i s t e r h o o d . The wounded man, however rough, was

s a c r e d e n o u g h t o b e n u r s e d b y t h e s e r e f i n e d S a m a r i t a i n e s .

T h e a b b e s s a p p e a r e d b e s i d e t h e s e v e n g r a v e s a s a S l e e p -

ing Beauty very w ide awake .

It was fr om the threshold of Marmoutier that Peter



JESUS AND MADONNA 4 0 1

t h e H e r m i t m a d e h i s a p p e a l f o r t h e C r u s a d e s , a n d i n t h e

c e n t u r i e s t h e c o n v e n t h a d b e c o m e f a m o u s a s a n a s y l u m

o f P e a c e . I n p a r t i n g f r o m t h i s a t t r a c t i v e l a d y s h e s a i d ,

p e r h a p s w i t h r e f e r e n c e t o s o m e r e m a r k o f m i n e ( w h i c h I

f o r g e t ) : "This i s an abode of happiness ; e v e r y h o u r

b r i n g s u s a t a s k w e l o v e , a n d w e c o n t i n u a l l y o f f e r t h a n k s

f o r o u r h a p p i n e s s i n h a v i n g s u c h a h o m e , a n d s u c h c o n -

s t a n t o p p o r t u n i t i e s f o r c h a r i t y a n d h e l p f u l n e s s . "

T h e b e l l i g e r e n t C h r i s t o f t h e C r u s a d e s h a s n o p a r t i n

t h e i d e a l o f t h e h u m b l e a n d t h e c u l t u r e d C a t h o l i c s o f o u r

t i m e , b u t t h e f e m i n i n e h e a r t c a n n o t a d o r e a f e m i n i n e

d i v i n i t y a l o n e . O n e f i n d s i n t h e p i o u s m e d i t a t i o n s o f M a -

dame Gu ion, Madame Ador na, and other d evout and

r e f i n e d C a t h o l i c w o m e n , a J e s u s a n d M a d o n n a c o m b i n e d

i n a n i n c a r n a t i o n o f b l e n d e d f o r c e a n d g e n t l e n e s s t o w h i c h

t h e m o d e r n C h r i s t i a n r a t i o n a l i s m h a s s t e a d i l y l e d t h e

p e w s , i f n o t y e t t h e p u l p i t s , o f n e a r l y a l l P r o t e s t a n t

c h u r c h e s . M a n y y e a r s a g o I p i c k e d u p s o m e w h e r e a c o p y

o f t h e N e w Y o r k " C a t h o l i c W o r l d " ( x x , 6 6 5 ) a n d c o p i e d

from it an anonymous poem : -

F r i e n d , t h e w a y i s s t e e p a n d l o n e l y ,

T h i c k l y g r o w s t h e r u e ;

A l l a r o u n d a r e s h a d o w s o n l y :

May I w alk with you ?

Not too near -f or oh! your going

I s u p o n t h e h e i g h t s

W h e r e t h e a i r s o f h e a v e n a r e b l o w i n g

T h r o u g h t h e m o r n i n g l i g h t s .

D a r e I b r u s h t h e d e w s t h a t g l i s t e n

A l l a b o u t y o u r f e e t ?

C a n I l i s t e n w h e r e y o u l i s t e n ,

M e e t t h e s i g h t s y o u m e e t ?



402 MY PILGRIMAGE

N o t t o o f a r -I f a i n t a t m i s s i n g

You fr om out my way -V a i n i s t h e n t h e g l o r y k i s s i n g

A l l t h e p e a k s o f d a y :

V a i n a r e a l l t h e l a u g h i n g s h o w e r s

L e a d i n g o n t h e S p r i n g ,

A l l t h e S u m m e r g r e e n a n d f l o w e r s ,

A l l t h e b i r d s t h a t s i n g .

A t y o u r s i d e m y w a y i s c l e a r e s t :

T e l l m e I m a y s t a y !

N o t t o o f a r - a n d y e t , m y d e a r e s t ,

N o t t o o f a r a w a y .

I t i s s a i d t h a t J e s u s i n a c r o w d o n c e p a u s e d a n d s a i d ,

~° Who touched me?" Through the miracul ous v eil one

m a y d i s c e r n t h e s e n s i t i v e m a n w h o c o u l d d i s t i n g u i s h t h e

l i g h t e s t c a r e s s f r o m a l l a c c i d e n t a l t o u c h e s . Amid the

m u l t i t u d i n o u s t h r o n g i n N e w Y o r k c r y i n g , " L o r d , L o r d , "

t o a c o n v e n t i o n a l i z e d J e s u s t h e r e m a y b e r e c o g n i z e d i n

the above poem one who really touched him . I f e e l c e r -

t a i n t h a t i t i s t h e s o n g o f a M a d o n n a w h o b a d s p i r i t u a l l y

conceived and b orne and exalted above herself, b u t n o t

t o o f a r , a Son of the univ ers al motherhood . F o r h e r

" F ri end " is not commonplace nor conventional, bu t an

original and genui ne expr essi on of that forc e which

a great man of sc ience, W. K . C l i f f o r d , e n u n c i a t e d i n a

lectu re in London which f il led me wi th emotion when I

h e a r d i t , a n d i n w h i c h m y o l d a g e n o w f i n d s o n e o f t h e

f e w c o n t e m p o r a r y e v a n g e l s a n d p r o p h e c i e s w h i c h s u r v i v e

m y m a n y v a n i s h e d i l l u s i o n s : -In this pri nciple (evolution) we must recognize the

m o t h e r o f l i f e , a n d e s p e c i a l l y o f h u m a n l i f e , p o w e r f u l

enough to sub du e the elements, and yet always work ing

gently against them ; bi di ng her time in the whole ex-



THE MOTHER TRIUMPHANT 4 0 3

panse of heaven, to make the highest cosmos out of inor-

ganic chaos ; t h e a c t o r , n o t o f a l l t h e a c t i o n s o f l i v i n g

things, but only of the good actions ; f o r a b a d a c t i o n i s

one by w hich the organis m tends to be less organic, and

acts for a time as if i norganic . T o t h i s m o t h e r o f l i f e ,

pers onifyi ng herself i n the good work s of humanity, it

seems to me we may fitly addr ess a spl endid hymn of Mr

Swinbur ne's ("Mater Tri u mphalis ") : -

M o t h e r o f m a n ' s t i m e - t r a v e l l i n g g e n e r a t i o n s ,

B r e a t h o f h i s n o s t r i l s , h e a r t - b l o o d o f h i s h e a r t ,

G o d a b o v e a l l G o d s w o r s h i p p e d o f a l l n a t i o n s ,

L i g h t a b o v e l i g h t , l a w b e y o n d l a w , t h o u a r t .

T h y f a c e i s a s a s w o r d s m i t i n g i n s u n d e r

S h a d o w s a n d c h a i n s a n d d r e a m s a n d i r o n t h i n g s ;

T h e s e a i s d u m b b e f o r e t h y f a c e , t h e t h u n d e r

S i l e n t , t h e s k i e s a r e n a r r o w e r t h a n t h y w i n g s .

A l l o l d g r e y h i s t o r i e s h i d i n g t h y c l e a r f e a t u r e s ,

0 s e c r e t s p i r i t a n d s o v e r e i g n , a l l m e n ' s t a l e s ,

C r e e d s w o v e n o f m e n t h y c h i l d r e n a n d t h y c r e a t u r e s ,

T h e y h a v e w o v e n f o r v e s t u r e s o f t h e e a n d f o r v e i l s .

T h i n e h a n d s , w i t h o u t e l e c t i o n o r e x e m p t i o n ,

F e e d a l l m e n f a i n t i n g f r o m f a l s e p e a c e o r s t r i f e ,

0 t h o u , t h e r e s u r r e c t i o n a n d r e d e m p t i o n ,

T h e g o d h e a d , a n d t h e m a n h o o d , a n d t h e l i f e 1

In the recently dis covered Gosp el of Peter it is s aid

that Jesus in dyi ng cri ed, " M y p o w e r , m y p o w e r , w h y

hast thou forsaken me?" It is not lik ely, as Profess or

Estli n Carpenter says in his able work on the Synoptics ,

t h a t a n y d i s c i p l e w o u l d i n v e n t s u c h a c r y o f d e s p a i r f r o m

his dy ing master . T h e r e a r e i n d e e d v a r i o u s i n d i c a t i o n s i n

the New T estament that Jesus tri ed to escape fr om the

mobs, and the termination of his li fe when it was ju st

unfoldi ng must have been bitter ind eed . B u t i t i s t o b e

hoped that his l ast days were not haunted by any fear



4 0 4 MY PILGRIMAGE

t h a t h i s g h o s t w o u l d a p p e a r a n d u n s a y a l l t h a t h e h a d

t a u g h t . F o r i t i s c e r t a i n t h a t s i d e b y s i d e w i t h t h e b e a u -

t i f u l a n d h u m a n e t e a c h i n g s w h i c h I h a v e q u o t e d , o t h e r s

a r e a s c r i b e d t o h i m w h i c h d e n y e v e r y o n e o f t h e m . His

" p o w e r " p a s s e d i n t o t h e h a n d s o f t h e d e i f i e d f o r c e s o f

p r e d a t o r y N a t u r e , a n d t h e s t i l l s m a l l v o i c e o f J e s u s i s

d r o w n e d b y t h e d o g m a s b o r n o f v o l c a n o a n d l i g h t n i n g s .

I t i s t e r r i b l e t o c o n s i d e r h o w h a r d i t i s t o n u r s e a n y

b r i e r l e s s r o s e o f r e l i g i o u s f a i t h i n a w o r l d w h e r e t h e c r u e l

p h e n o m e n a o f h e r e d i t a r y d i s e a s e s , t h e f a t a l a n d n e v e r -

e n d i n g c o n s e q u e n c e s o f e v e n s m a l l e r r o r s , t h e i n d i s c r i m -

i n a t e s u f f e r i n g s o f b o t h i n n o c e n t a n d g u i l t y , p r o c l a i m

s o l o u d l y a c r e a t i v e D e m i u r g o s . An eminent Unitarian

p r e a c h e r , t e a c h i n g u n w e a r i e d l y t h a t G o d i s L o v e , r e -

l a t e s t h e f o l l o w i n g i n c i d e n t : " O n e d a y a l a d y i n B o s t o n

c a m e t o me, a m e m b e r o f t h e O l d S o u t h C h u r c h , o n e o f

t h e f i n e s t a n d r i c h e s t . c h u r c h e s i n B o s t o n . She bel onged

t o t h e b e s t s o c i e t y . S h e w a s c u l t i v a t e d a n d i n t e l l i g e n t ;

a n d s h e s a t d o w n b e s i d e m e , a n d s a i d , ' Mr. S a v a g e , w o n ' t

y o u t e l l m e w h a t y o u b e l i e v e ? ' I t o l d h e r . When I w as

t h r o u g h , s h e s a i d , ' I w o u l d g i v e t h e w o r l d i f I d a r e d t o

b e l i e v e a s y o u d o . ' T h e n s h e a d d e d ,'H o w d o I k n o w ,

a f t e r a l l , h o w c a n I b e s u r e , t h a t t h e r e i s n o s u c h G o d i n

t h e u n i v e r s e a s I h a v e b e e n t a u g h t t o b e l i e v e i n P a n d i f

t h e r e i s , I a m a f r a i d o f h i m . " '

T h e a g e s o f C h r i s t i a n t h e o l o g y h a d b r o u g h t t h i s B o s t o n

l a d y t o t h e m e n t a l c o n d i t i o n o f s o m e o f t h e a b o r i g i n a l

t r i b e s o f I n d i a . T h e S a n t a l s , w h o k n o w n o t d i s t i n c t i o n s

o f c a s t e n o r p o l y g a m y , a n d r e s p e c t w o m e n , c a n n o t , s a y s

S i r W i l l i a m H u n t e r , i m a g i n e " o n e o m n i p o t e n t a n d b e n e -

f i c e n t d e i t y , w h o w a t c h e s o v e r m a n k i n d . " A Santal sai d

t o a n e l o q u e n t m i s s i o n a r y w h o h a d d i s c o u r s e d o f t h e C h r i s -

t i a n G o d , " W h a t i f t h a t S t r o n g O n e s h o u l d e a t m e ? "



SIR WILLIAM W . HUNTER



A HUMANIZED SAINT 405

My f r i e n d H e n r i M o n o d o f P a r i s t o l d m e o f a l i t t l e

g i r l w h o s a i d t o h e r m o t h e r , -"Mamma, if the good God

a n d t h e d e v i l w e r e b o t h d e a d I w o u l d f e e l m o r e t r a n q u i l . "

S h e w a s b r o u g h t u p a C a t h o l i c , a n d h e r c a s e -a s s h e w a s

s t i l l t a u g h t t o b e l i e v e i n a d e v i l - w a s h a p p i e r t h a n t h e

B o s t o n l a d y t r a i n e d t o b e l i e v e i n o n e s i n g l e o m n i p o t e n t

c r e a t o r r e s p o n s i b l e f o r a l l t h e e v i l s a n d a g o n i e s p r o c e e d -

i n g f r o m h i s c r e a t i o n . O f s u c h a d r e a d p o w e r w h y s h o u l d

a s w e e t a n d t e n d e r w o m a n n o t b e a f r a i d ?

F r o m s u c h d e i t i e s B u d d h a a n d C o n f u c i u s a n d Z o r o a s t e r

a n d J e s u s l e d t h e i r f r i e n d s , a n d i n A m e r i c a E m e r s o n l e d

t h e d e s c e n d a n t s o f t h e t e r r i b l e C a l v i n i s t d e i t y i n t h e s a m e

d i r e c t i o n b y c a l l i n g t h e m t o t h e r e l i g i o n o f t h e i r o w n

h e a r t s . W h e n I w a s s t u d y i n g i n t h e U n i t a r i a n D i v i n i t y

S c h o o l , C a m b r i d g e ( M a s s a c h u s e t t s ) , I o c c a s i o n a l l y w e n t

t o p r e a c h i n t h e t e m p o r a r i l y v a c a n t U n i t a r i a n p u l p i t a t

Plymouth . The c h u r c h w a s t h e a n c i e n t f o u n d a t i o n o f t h e

P i l g r i m s , a n d I n e v e r e n t e r e d i t w i t h o u t a f e e l i n g o f e x -

a l t a t i o n . T h e p r i c k l y C a l v i n i s t i c c a c t u s p l a n t e d t h e r e i n

1 6 2 1 h a d t h e n b u d d e d i n t o t h e b e a u t i f u l f a i t h o f C h a n n i n g

a n d w a s f i n a l l y f l o w e r i n g i n t h e i d e a l i s m o f E m e r s o n !

Emers on had marri ed a Plymouth lady and bad w arm

f r i e n d s t h e r e ; a m o n g t h e s e b e i n g M r s . L u c i a B r i g g s , w h o

s t a n d s i n m y m e m o r y a s a h u m a n i z e d s a i n t , -y m p a t h e t i c

a n d i n d i v i d u a l , s e r e n e a n d s m i l i n g , c u l t u r e d a n d s i m p l e .

" S h e i s o n e o f t h e p r e c i o u s p e r s o n s , " s a i d E m e r s o n , w h e n

I s p o k e o f h e r , b u t I d i d n o t k n o w t h e n t h a t h e h a d b e e n

a n i n f l u e n c e i n h e r l i f e . I n a b o o k w r i t t e n b y h e r s o n ,

" R o u t i n e a n d I d e a l s , " a p p e a r s a l e t t e r o f E m e r s o n t o

l i t t l e L u c i a a t P l y m o u t h , a g e d t h i r t e e n , w h i c h c o n t a i n s

a p a r a g r a p h n o t s u r p a s s e d b y a n y s a y i n g o f t h e h a l o e d

s a g e s : -



406 MY PILGRIMAGE

I w ould gladly know what books Luci a likes to read

when nobody advi ses her, and most of all w hat her

thoughts are when she walks alone or s its alone . F o r ,

t h o u g h I k n o w t h a t L u c i a i s t h e h a p p i e s t o f g i r l s i n h a v -

i n g i n h e r s i s t e r s o w i s e a n d k i n d a g u i d e , y e t e v e n h e r a i d

m u s t s t o p w h e n s h e h a s p u t t h e b o o k b e f o r e y o u ; n e i t h e r

s i s t e r n o r b r o t h e r n o r m o t h e r n o r f a t h e r c a n t h i n k f o r u s ;

i n t h e l i t t l e p r i v a t e c h a p e l o f y o u r o w n m i n d n o n e b u t y o u

c a n k n o w t h e h a p p y t h o u g h t s t h a t f o l l o w e a c h o t h e r , t h e

b e a u t i f u l a f f e c t i o n s t h a t s p r i n g t h e r e , t h e l i t t l e s i l e n t h y m n s

that are s ung there at morning and at evening . A n d I

h o p e t h a t e v e r y s u n t h a t s h i n e s , e v e r y s t a r t h a t r i s e s , e v e r y

wi nd that blows u pon you will only br ing you better

t h o u g h t s a n d s w e e t e r m u s i c .

H e r e , t h e n , I f i n d t h e i n s c r i p t i o n o n m y f i n a l s h r i n e .

A f t e r v o y a g i n g a r o u n d t h e w o r l d a n d v i s i t i n g m a n y t e m -

p l e s I c o m e a t l a s t t o t h e " l i t t l e p r i v a t e c h a p e l i n m y o w n

m i n d , " w h e r e t h e i d e a l s a r e s m a l l b u t i n t i m a t e a n d t h e

s e r v i c e s l o w l y b u t l o v i n g .

M a n y y e a r s a g o a n A m e r i c a n s p o k e t o m e a f t e r m y d i s -

cou rs e at South Place Chapel, London, and as ked me to

c a l l o n h i m a t h i s h o t e l . H e was gentlemanly and attrac-

t i v e , a n d i n v i t e d m e s o e a r n e s t l y t h a t I c o m p l i e d . I t w a s

a f a s h i o n a b l e h o t e l a n d b e r e c e i v e d m e i n a f i n e l a r g e

r oom . A t a b l e w a s c o v e r e d w i t h l a r g e d r a w i n g s a n d d e -

s i g n s o f a n i n v e n t i o n t h i s A m e r i c a n h a d m a d e f o r t u n n e l -

l i n g mountai ns . He showed me clearly that a mountain

c o u l d b e p e r f o r a t e d w i t h f a r l e s s c o s t i n m o n e y , t i m e , a n d

l a b o u r , a n d h e e n u m e r a t e d t h e m o u n t a i n c h a i n s s t i l l s e p -

arating nations and peoples, i mpedi ng commerce and

c i v i l i z a t i o n , r e n d e r i n g i m p o s s i b l e t h e " f e d e r a t i o n o f t h e

world ." Some London engineers and men of wealth were

interested in his invention, and a syndi cate would b e

formed . H e d i d n o t r e q u i r e a n y h e l p f r o m m e , b u t h a v i n g

l i s t e n e d t o m y d i s c o u r s e t h o u g h t I w o u l d b e i n t e r e s t e d i n



TWO INVENTORS 407

h i s i n v e n t i o n . I w a s i n d e e d i n t e r e s t e d , a n d h o p e d t o h e a r

f r o m h i m a g a i n , b u t d i d n o t , a n d t h e m a t t e r p a s s e d f r o m

my mind .

Y e a r s l a t e r I w a s a c c o s t e d b y a s t r a n g e r n e a r K i n g ' s

C r o s s , a h a g g a r d m a n i n t h r e a d b a r e c o a t , w h o s a i d p l e a -

s a n t l y , " Y o u d o n o t r e m e m b e r m e , b u t y o u c a m e t o s e e

m e o n c e a t C h a r i n g C r o s s H o t e l . " " A h , y e s , y o u h a d a n

i n v e n t i o n o f s o m e k i n d , w h a t c a m e o f i t ? " " W e l l , t h e

c a p i t a l i s t s w o u l d n o t g o i n t o i t , b u t I h a v e a n o t h e r i n v e n -

t i o n n o w ,- w i s h y o u w o u l d l e t m e s h o w i t t o y o u . " " I

c a n g o n o w . " I f o l l o w e d t h e i n v e n t o r t o a p o o r l o d g i n g -

h o u s e n e a r b y , f e l t m y w a y t h r o u g h t h e n a r r o w p a s s a g e s

a n d u p t h e c r e a k i n g s t a i r w a y s t o a d i n g y l i t t l e a t t i c , w i t h

c o t a n d t w o w o o d e n c h a i r s . T h e r e h e s h o w e d m e h i s n e w

i n v e n t i o n , -a l i t t l e m a c h i n e f o r s h a r p e n i n g k n i v e s a n d

f o r k s .

P a t h e t i c c o m e d i e s a r e n o t r a r e i n L o n d o n , s o I s o o n

f o r g o t t h e i n v e n t o r . I n e v e r s a w h i m a g a i n a n d d o n o t

remember his name, but in later years think of him .

C o u l d I m e e t h i m t o - d a y I w o u l d t a k e t h a t m a n b y t h e

h a n d a n d s a y , " B r o t h e r , w e a r e i n t h e s a m e c a s e . I t o o

s t a r t e d o u t w i t h m y i n v e n t i o n f o r t u n n e l l i n g b a r r i e r s

b e t w e e n r a c e s a n d n a t i o n s a n d p r o m o t i n g u n i v e r s a l p e a c e

a n d f r a t e r n i t y ; b u t I h a v e c o m e d o w n t o s o m e t h i n g s m a l l ,

- n o t e x a c t l y s h a r p e n i n g k n i v e s a n d f o r k s , p o s s i b l y l e s s

u s e f u l . I a m n o w c o n t e n t i f I c a n w i n a s m i l e t o t h e f a c e s

t h a t s u r r o u n d m e , o r b r i n g a l i t t l e c h e e r t o h o m e s t h a t

l o o k t o m e f o r h e l p . "

A s I w r i t e t h i s i n t h e h a p p y h o m e o f m y d a u g h t e r M i l -

d r e d a n d h e r h u s b a n d , i n N e w Y o r k , t h e m i d n i g h t c h i m e s

a r e r i n g i n g i n C h r i s t m a s , 1 9 0 5 . M y d e v o t e d t w o c h i l d r e n

a n d c h i l d r e n - i n - l a w d o a l l t h a t a f f e c t i o n c a n t o w i t h d r a w

m e f r o m m e m o r i e s o f t h e b e r e a v e m e n t w e s u f f e r e d i n t h e



4 0 8 MY PILGRIMAGE

d e a t h o f t h e i r m o t h e r o n C h r i s t m a s d a y , 1 8 9 7 . T h e C h r i s t -

m a s t r e e i s d r e s s e d f o r t h e l i t t l e c h i l d r e n , a l t h o u g h n o n e

o f u s b e l i e v e i n a n y s u p e r n a t u r a l b i r t h . The human Jesus

i s w i t h u s i n h u m a n k i n d n e s s , a n d t h e h o u s e i s f u l l o f

t h e o d o u r o f t h e l o v e p o u r e d o u t f r o m o u r l i t t l e a l a b a s t e r

b o x e s t o g l a d d e n t h e h e a r t s t h a t s u r r o u n d u s .

I n a s e n t e n c e p r e s e r v e d b y H i p p o l y t u s f r o m a l o s t G o s -

p e l o f S t . T h o m a s , J e s u s s a y s , 1 1 He who seeks me shall

f i n d m e i n c h i l d r e n f r o m s e v e n y e a r s o l d . "

I n a n e w l y d i s c o v e r e d l o g i c J e s u s s a y s , " I s t o o d i n t h e

m i d s t o f t h e w o r l d . . . and found all men drunk en, and

none found I athirs t among them, and my soul grieves

o v e r t h e s o n s o f m e n b e c a u s e t h e y a r e b l i n d i n t h e h e a r t s

a n d s e e n o t " - T h e r e s t o f t h e p a p y r u s i s b r o k e n . My

c o n j e c t u r e i s t h a t J e s u s f e l t t h a t h i s e f f o r t s t o r e f o r m

mankind had f ailed , and that none were eager for the

b e a t i t u d e , " Happ y are they that hunger and thirs t for

j u s t i c e . " ( E v e n n o w C h r i s t i a n s t h i r s t s o l i t t l e f o r j u s t i c e

t h a t t h e y h i d e i t u n d e r t h e m o n g r e l " r i g h t e o u s n e s s " ! )

B u t w i t h J e s u s t o t h e l a s t w e r e t h e w o m e n ; a n d s h a l l

I f o r g e t t h a t s w e e t e s t o f a l l p a r a b l e s , t h e w o m a n h i d i n g

her leaven in the measur es of meal til l the whole was

r a i s e d ? S o l o n g a s t h e e a r t h s t i l l p r o d u c e s l o v e l y a n d

l o v i n g w o m e n , o n e c a n n o t d e s p a i r o f t h e h a p p i e r w o r l d ,

t h a t i s n o t s e e n b u t i s w i t h i n e v e r y t r u e a n d l o v i n g h e a r t .

In all the world loving women are bowing down before

d e i t i e s t h a t s e e m t o m e l o v e l e s s a n d h e a r t l e s s , b u t t h o s e

h e a r t s a r e s t i l l s i n g i n g , " J e s u s , l o v e r o f m y s o u l ." Deep

b e n e a t h t h o s e m a t e r n a l b r e a s t s i s a p o t e n t a l c h e m y l i k e

t h a t w h i c h i n t h e f l o w e r t u r n s t h e f o u l e s t m u d a n d s l i m e

a t i t s r o o t i n t o p u r i t y a n d f r a g r a n c e o f l i l y a n d r o s e . I t i s

s a i d w i t h s o m e t r u t h t h a t t h e h a n d t h a t r o c k s t h e c r a d l e

r u l e s t h e w o r l d ; b u t i t i s n o t a v i s i b l e r u l e , - n o t a r u l e



THE LEAVEN OF HAPPINESS 4 0 9

o f w h i c h m e n m a y s a y , L o h e r e ! l o t h e r e ! We re woman

t o b e w i t h d r a w n b y p u b l i c a m b i t i o n f r o m h e r r e a l m o f

b e a u t y a n d l o w l i n e s s , s h e w o u l d b e a d d e d t o t h e m e a s u r e s

o f m e a l , b u t w h e r e w o u l d b e t h e l e a v e n ?

O s i s t e r s , o u r s o r e s t n e e d i s t o e n d t h e W r a t h b y e n d -

i n g t h e s a c r i f i c e s , a s J e s u s s a i d ,-i k e h i m t o c l e a r t h e

t e m p l e o f e v e r y v i c t i m . B u t t h a t l e a v e n , f o r w h i c h w e

must also wi th Jesus look to woman-o n s t i t u t i o n a l l y

d e r i v i n g h a p p i n e s s f r o m g i v i n g r a t h e r t h a n r e c e i v i n g -c a n r e a c h t h e t e m p l e b e s t b y b e i n g h i d i n h e a r t s a n d

homes .



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penhauer, 2 50 ; sacred place of,

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f a b l e s a n d p a r a b l e s , 1 0 9 - 1 1 1 ; v e n -

e r a b l e p r i e s t , 1 1 6 , 1 1 7 , 1 2 2 ; r e l i g i o u s

b e l i e f s , 1 1 7 , 1 1 8 ; c r i m e r a r e a m o n g ,

1 1 9 ; r e l i g i o u s p r o c e s s i o n , 1 2 0 ;

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teric Buddhism " b y S i n n e t t , 1 9 6 ;



4 1 2 I N D E X

" p a n s a l a , " t h e f i v e p r e c e p t s , 2 0 4 ,

2 0 5 ; p r i e s t s c l a i m s u p e r n a t u r a l f a -

v o u r , 2 2 9 ; m i r a c l e p l a y , 2 3 0 ; t r a d i -

t i o n a l s a c r e d p l a c e , 2 5 7 .

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1 5 7 ; Tamil dr ama of ` Har i s chan .

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Conway, Moncu re D . , C i n c i n n a t i p a s -

t o r a t e , 2 , 3 ; The Earthward Pil .

g r i m a g e , " 4 , 5 ; v o y a g e t o N e w Y o r k ,

8 - 1 3 ; m e e t s p r o m i n e n t c i t i z e n s , 1 5 ,

1 6 ; c o n c e p t i o n o f p a t r i o t i s m , 1 6 - 1 8 ;

a p p r e c i a t i on o f I n g e r s o l l , 1 9 - 2 4 ; p o s t -

h e l i u m c o n d i t i o n s , 2 4 , 2 5 ; w a r p o l i c y

r e g r e t t e d , 2 5 , 2 6 ; A Necklace ofS t o r i e s , " 2 6, 2 7 ; r e f le c t i o n s o n v is i t

home, 27-3 0 ; V i r g i n i a h i s t o r i c a l

p i l g r i m a g e , 3 0 ; e f f e c t s o f w a r, 3 4 - 3 6 ;

w i t c h h u n t , 3 7 ; v i s i t s J u d g e H o a d l y ,

3 8 - 4 0 ; v i s i t s U t a h , 4 0 - 4 5 ; c o n v e r s e s

w i t h J o h n W . Young, 41 ; meets

p r o m i n e n t M o r m o n s , 4 4 , 4 5 ; a r r i v e s

i n S a n F r a n c i s c o , 4 7 ; v i s i t s C h i n a -

t o w n , 4 7 , 4 8 ; v i s it s f r i en d s a nd r e l a-

t i v e s , 4 9 ; Shakespeare-Bacon con-t r o v e r s y , 5 1 , 6 3 ; i n H a w a i i , 5 3 - 5 9 ;

d i v e r s i o n s o f P a c i f i c v o y a g e , 6 2 - 6 4 ; i n

N e w Z e a l a n d , 6 5 , 6 6 ; a t M e l b o u r n e ,

7 0 - 7 6 ; v i s i t s g o l d - f i e l d s , 7 7 - 8 0 ; i n T a s -

m a n i a , 8 0 - 8 8 ; Melbour ne lectures

m i s u n d e r s t o o d , 8 9 , 9 0 ; S y d n e y l e c -

t u r e s , 9 1 - 9 4 ; a t B o t a n y B a y , 9 5 ; v i s i t s

A l ba n y , 9 9 - 1 0 4 ; v o y a g e t o C e y l o n ,

1 0 5 ; a B u d d h i s t f r i e n d , 1 0 9 - 1 1 1 ; e x -

p e d i t i o n t o R o d y a s c o u n t r y , 1 1 1 , 1 1 2 ;

e n t e r t a i n e d b y S i n h a l e s e , 1 1 2 - 1 1 4 ; a d -

m o n i s h e s B u d d h i s t s , 1 1 5 , 1 1 6 ; m e e t s

S u b h n t i , 1 1 6 , 1 1 7 ; v i s i t s K h a n d y t e m -

p l e , 1 2 1 , 1 2 2 ; h e a r s M o s l e m p r e a c h e r ,

1 2 3 , 1 2 4 ; v i s i t s K e l l a n i a t e m p l e , 1 2 4 ;

q u e s t i o n s S u b h I I t i a b o u t m i s s i o n -

a r i e s , 1 2 6 ; s p e n d s C h r i s t m a s i n C o .

l o m b o , 1 2 7 - 1 3 0 ; a t B u d d h i s t c o l l e g e ,

1 3 0 - 1 3 4 ; c o n v e r s a t i o n w i t h p r i e s t s ,

1 3 5 , 1 3 6 ; a t t e n d s i n t e r n a t i o n a l c h u r c h

f u n ct i o n , 1 3 9 - 1 4 2 ; e n te r t ai n e d a t C in -

namon Gardens, 1 43 ; s e e s d e v i l .

d a n c e , 1 4 4 - 1 5 0 ; e n t e r t a i n e d a t S w a -

m y b u n g a l o w , 1 5 3 - 1 5 9 ; s e e s N a u t c h

d a n c e s , 1 5 4 - 1 5 7 ; ` H a r i s c h a n d r a , "

T a m i l d r a m a , 1 5 7 - 1 5 9 ; v i s i t s A c h m e t

A r a b i , 1 6 2 - 1 6 8 ; w a t c h e s s t r ee t c o n -

j u r e r , 1 6 9 ; a t M a d r a s t e m p l e c e r e -

m o n i a l s , 1 7 4 - 1 7 6 ; t a l k s w i t h s t u -

d e n t s , 1 7 6 - 1 7 9 ; o p p o s e s t r a d i t i o n a l

b e l i e f a b o u t J u g g e n a u t h , 1 8 0 , 1 8 1 ; a t

T r i p e l c a n e t e m p l e , 1 8 1 - 1 8 3 ; p i l g r i m-

a g e t o S t . T h o m d , 1 8 3 - 1 8 7 ; l e c t u r e s

o n " R e l i g i o n o f H u m a n i t y , " 1 9 1 ; v i s -

i t e d b y J a i n t e ac h e r , 1 9 2 , 1 9 3 ; w i t h

Mme . B l a v a t s k y a t A d y ar , 1 9 6 - 2 0 3 ;

w i t n e s s e s " p a n s a l a " a d m i n i s t e r e d ,

2 0 4 , 2 0 5 ; i n v e s t i g a t e s T h e o s o p h i e

m i r a c l e s , 2 0 5 - 2 1 3 ; attends Royal

A s i a t i c S o c i e t y b a n q u e t i n C a l c u t t a ,

2 1 5 ; t r a v e l s w i t h M o z o o m d a r , 2 1 5 ;

a t P o s i t i v i s t s c h o o l , 2 1 8 - 2 2 0 ; i n t r o -

duc es Mozoomdar to Tyndall, 22 1-

2 2 3 ; a t C a l c u t t a E x p o s i t i o n , 2 2 3 - 2 2 5 ;

p r i n t - s h o p, 2 2 5 ; t h e a t r e s , 2 2 6 - 2 3 4 ;

c i r c u s , 2 3 4 ; v i s i t s s h r i n e o f K a l i ,

0



2 3 5 - 2 3 7 , 2 4 1 , 2 4 2 ; c o n v e r s a t i o n w i t h

y o g i , 2 3 8 , 2 3 9 ; dines with Indian

p r i n c e , 2 4 4 - 2 4 6 ; s e e i n g B e n g a l , 2 4 8 ,

2 4 9 ; h o l d s r e l i g i o u s c o n f e r e n c e , 2 4 9 ,

2 5 0 ; visits Dr . M i t r a , 2 5 0 - 2 5 2 ;

A m e e r A l i , 2 5 2 - 2 5 4 ; s e e s c o n j u r e r ' s

m a r v e l l o u s d o l l s , 2 5 5 , 2 5 6 ; j o u r n e y s

to Bu d dha-Gaya 2 5 7 - 2 6 2 ; at Be .

n a r e s , 2 6 6 - 2 6 8 ; h i s " C h a t s w i t h a

Chimpanzee " b e g u n , 2 6 8 ; e x c u r s i o n

t o " D e e r P a r k , " 2 6 8 ; o p i n i o n o f t h e

narrative of Jesu s and the woman

o f S a m a r i a , 2 7 3 ; a t D e l h i , 2 7 7 - 2 8 1 ;

a t P ur a n a K e e l a, 2 8 2 - 2 8 4 ; s ee s t h e

T a j , 2 8 4 , 2 8 5 ; a d v e n t u r e a t A g r a , 2 8 9 ;

a t A l l a h a b a d , 3 0 2 - 3 0 9 ; in Bombay,

3 1 7 - 3 3 2 ; s a i l s f o r h o m e , 3 4 3 ; h i s

s e a r c h f o r J e s us , 3 5 1 - 3 8 1 .

C o o k , C a p t a i n , a u t h e n t i c a c c o u n t o f

h i s d e a t h , 5 5 .

C o u lom b , Mme . , e x p o s e s T h e o s o p h i c

m a r v e l s , 2 1 1 - 2 1 3 .

C r a w f o r d , F . M a r i o n, h i s " M r . I s a a c s "

a n d T h e o s o p h y , 1 9 5 .

C r o c o d i l e , a f a i r s y m b o l o f A u r u n g -

z e b , 2 8 9 .

D a h a r w a n g a , s t r a n g e s i g h t s a t , 3 0 7 .

D a m o n , F r a n k , 5 5 .

Damon, Rev. D r

. , 5 5 .

D a r m e s t e t e r , J a m e s , 3 2 6 .

D a r w i n , C h a r l e s , o n t r o p i c a l t r i b e s , 5 8 ,

6 5 ; C . l e c t u r e s o n , 7 4 , 9 1 , 9 4 ; d i s l i k e d

b y A u s t r a l i a n s , 1 0 4 .

D a v i d s , T . W . R h y s , L L . D . , 1 2 8 , 2 5 0 .

D a y , L a l B e h a r l , h i s " F o l k - T a l e s o f

B e n g a l , " 2 4 2 .

" D e e r P a r k , " 2 6 8 , 2 6 9 .

D e l h i , 2 7 7 - 2 8 1 .

Demons and demonology, C . ' s b o o k

o n , 1 4 4 , 2 4 6 , 2 4 7 ; i n C e y l o n , 1 4 7 , 1 5 1 ,

1 5 2 ; i n I n d i a , 2 4 2 .

De Siva, W . A . , c o - e d i t o r o f " C e y l o n

N a t i o n a l R e v i e w ," 2 5 4

.

D e v i l - d a n c e , 1 4 4 - 1 5 0 .

" D e w - d r o p , T h e C i r c u m n a v i g a t i o n o f

a ," 9 .

D i c k i n s o n C o l l e g e , e x t r a c t f r o m a d -

d r e s s a t , 3 4 9 .

D o l l s , m a r v e l l o u s , 2 5 5 , 2 5 6 .

D r a u p a d i , a n d h e r f i v e h u s b a n d s , 2 8 2 ,

2 8 3 ; a n d S t . A g n e s , 2 9 2 ; and the

S a m a r i t a n w o ma n , 3 6 9 , n o t e .

D u a l i s m , t h e c e n t r a l p r i n c i p l e o f Z o -

r o a s t e r, 3 2 6 .

E a r t h w a r d P i l g r i m a g e , T h e , 4 , 5 .

E g l i n t o n , a m e d i u m , 2 0 5 - 2 0 9 .

E l e p h a n t s , 3 1 8 , 3 2 2 .

E m a n c i p a t i o n , c h i e f e n d o f C i v i l W a r ,

2 5 .

E m e r s o n , R a l p h W a l d o , " The Sphinx"

q u o t e d , 3 5 5 .

E n g l a n d , i n f l u en c e o f , o n I n d i a , 3 1 8 ,

3 1 9 , 3 3 9 .

E s m o n d , J a m e s , 7 9 .

E s s e n , t o w n o f , 3 4 8 - 3 5 0 .

I N D E X 4 1 3

F i t z h u g h , W i l l i a m , 3 1 .

F o k k e , C a p t . B e r n a r d , l e g e n d o f , 3 4 4 .

F o l k - l o r e t h e d e b r i s o f A s i a t i c u s a g e

a n d s u p e r s t i t io n , 3 0 1 .

F o x , W . J . , m i n i s t e r o f S o u t h P l a c e

C h a p e l , 3 3 2 .

F r a n k li n , B e n j a m i n , 3 6 0 .

F r a s e r , M r s . , o f M e l b o u r n e , 3 4 4 .

F r e e t h i n k e r s , I n t e r n a t i o n a l C o n g r e s s

o f , 3 8 7 .

F r o u d e , J a m e s A n t h o n y , 2 9 2 , 2 9 3 .

G a i e t f - M o n t p a r n a s s e , a S u n d a y e v e n -

i n g r e v u e a t , 3 9 0 , 3 9 1 .

G a n d h i , V i r c h a n d , 1 9 2 , 1 9 3 .

G a n g e s , i m m e r s i o n s i n t h e , 2 6 6 .

Garnett, Dr . R i c h a r d , h i s " E d w a r dG i b b o n W a k e f i e l d , " 6 8 .

G a y a , t e m p l e a t , 2 5 7 - 2 6 3 ; di s c o v e r y

a t , 2 6 1 .

Ghosh, Jogendra Chandra, adoptsP o s i t i v i s m , 2 1 9 .

G i o s a f a t , S t . , b e a u t i f u l s t a t u e o f , 2 9 9 .

" G o l d e n P i l l a r , " 2 7 8 .

Gordon, Charles G eorge ("ChineseGordon " ) , 3 4 5 - 3 4 8 .

G o r e h , N e l a c a n t a h , 3 2 1 , 3 2 2 , 3 3 1 .

G o s p e l o f t h e I n f a n c y , A r a b i c , 1 .

G r e n f e l l , D r . B e r n a r d , 3 8 2 .

G u i z o t , F . P . G. , q u o t e d , 3 9 5

.

H a p p i n e s s , r e l i g i o n p r o m o t e s , 1 3 ; a n d

s e l f - s a c r i f i c e , 1 9 2 .

H a r g r a v e s , E d w a r d , d i s c o v e r s g o l d i n

A u s t r a l i a , 7 8 , 7 9 .

Hartmann, D r . , 1 9 7 , 2 0 2 ; "pansala"a d m i n i s te r e d t o , 2 0 4 , 2 0 5 .

H a w a i i , s t r i c t S u n d a y l a w s i n , 5 4 , 5 5 ;

h a l f - c a s t e p o p u l a t i o n , 5 5 ; o v e r t h r o w

o f p a g a n i s m i n , 5 6 , 5 7 ; m i s s i o n a r y

e f f o r t s f u t i l e , 5 7 , 5 8 .

H a w t h o r n e , N a t h a n i e l , i n R o m e , 3 9 7 -

3 9 9 .

Heber, Bi shop Reginald, misc oncep.

t i o n s o f , 1 1 9 , 1 3 6 , 1 3 7 .

H i g i n b o t h a m , J u d g e , 7 5 , 8 9 .

H i n d u , e x o r c i s i n g d e v i l s , 1 4 4 , 1 5 1 ; d e -

m o n s , 1 4 9 , 1 5 0 ; c h i e f d e i t y , 1 5 o ;

t e m p l e d a n c e r s , 1 5 5 - 1 5 7 , 1 7 5 , 1 7 6 ;

m u s i c , 1 5 8 , 1 5 9 ; d e i t i e s , 1 7 4 , 1 7 5 , 1 7 8 -

1 8 2 ; s t u d e n t s , 1 7 6 - 1 7 9 ; k i l l s S t .

Thomas, 18 5 ; t a l e o f S a v a t r i , 1 8 8 ,

1 8 9 ; T h e o s o p h i s t s , 1 9 7 - 1 9 9 ; r e l i -

g i o n s , 2 1 8 - 2 2 1 ; t h e a t r e s , 2 2 5 - 2 3 4 ;

m i r a c l e p l a y , 2 2 6 - 2 2 8 ; K al i wor -

s h i p , 2 3 5 - 2 3 7 , 2 4 1 - 2 4 4 ; y o g i s , 2 3 8 - 2 4 0 ;

w o m e n , s e c l u s i o n o f , 2 4 3 ; f a n a t i c i s m

r e p u l s i v e t o e d u c a t e d , 2 4 5 ; i d o l s

o n l y s y m b o l s , 2 4 5 , 2 4 6 ; c on j u re r s ,

2 5 5 , 2 5 6 ; p o l i t e n e s s a n d t a c t o f , 2 9 4 ,

2 9 5 ; i l l - t r e a t e d b y s o m e o f t h e E n g -

l i s h , 3 3 8 .

H o a d l y , G e o r g e , 2 1 ; p o l i t i c a l c a r e e r ,

3 8 .

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H u n t , D r . A r t h u r , 3 8 2 .

H u n t e r , S i r Wi l l i a m , 1 8 0 , 2 1 1 , 2 1 5 , 2 2 3 ,



4 1 4 I N D E X

2 5 9 ; w i t h C . a t K a l i g h a t , 2 3 5 - 2 4 4 ;

with C . a t B e n g a l , 2 4 8 ; o n m i s s i o n .

a r i e s , 3 2 0 ; q u o t e d o n s o m e d e v e l o p -

m e n t s o f V i s h n u i s m, 3 3 7 .

H u x l e y , T . H . , 3 3 8 .

I l b e r t , H o n . M r . , 2 2 8 .

I n g e r s o l l , R o b e r t G . , p e r s u a s i ve pow .

e r o f , 1 9 , 2 0 ; f r e e d o m o f m i n d , 2 0 ; h i s

i c o n o c l a s m i n c i d e n t a l , 2 1 ; p u r i t y o f

m i n d , 2 2 ; attacked by Rev . Sam .

J o n e s , 2 2 ; f a m i l y l i f e , 2 3 ; c o m p e l l e d

t o r e s i g n n o m i n a t i o n a s m i n i s t e r t o

Germany, 24 .

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4 0 6 , 4 0 7 .

J a c o b ' s w e l l , 3 6 9 , 3 7 0 .

J a i n r e l i g i on , 1 9 2 , 1 9 3 ; t e m p l e i n B o m -

b a y , 3 4 1 .

J e f f e r s o n , T h o m a s , r e l i g i o u s a t t i t u d e

o f , 3 6 0 .

J e f f r a y , R o b e r t . I . , 8 .

J e h a n , S h a h , 2 8 5 .

J e h a n a r a , P r i n c e s s , 2 9 0 .

J e n c k e s , W i l l i a m , 1 9 .

J e s u s , q u e s t o f , 3 5 1 - 3 8 1 ; w h y p u t t o

d e at h , 3 6 5 ; a g e n t l e m a n , a n d r i c h ,

3 6 6 ; s a y i n g s o f , 3 7 0 - 3 7 5 ; h i s b a p t i s m ,

3 7 6 , 3 7 7 ; h i s b i r t h , 3 7 8; r e s u r r e c t i o n ,

3 7 9 ; s a yi n g s a s c r i b e d t o , 3 8 2 .

J i n g o , d e f e n c e o f a , 1 6 .

J o b , b o o k o f , 3 0 1 .

J o n e s , R e v . S a m . , 2 - 2 .

J u d a s , i d e n t i f i e d w i t h d o u b t i n g T h o m .

a s , 1 8 9 , 1 9 0 .

J u g g e n a u t h , 1 7 9 - 1 8 1 , 2 5 7 , 2 6 5 ; c a r o f ,

3 1 2 .

J u m n a , t h e r i v e r , 2 8 5 , 2 8 7 .

J u m n a M o s q u e , t h e , 2 9 0 .

K al i , s h ri n e o f, 2 3 5 - 2 3 7 ; i m a ge o f , 2 4 1 ;

v o w s a n d s a c r i f i c e s t o , 2 4 2 ; n o t i d e a l

d e i t y , 2 4 4 ; i n v i s i b l e , 2 4 6 , 2 4 7 .

K a l p a - t r e e , i n O r i e n t a l l o r e , 1 7 1 , 1 7 2 .

K h r u s r o o , t h e p o e t , t o m b o f , 2 8 0 .

K i n g , C h a r l e s W i l l i a m , a n e c d o t e o f ,

3 2 4 .

K r i s h n a , a n d A r j n n a , 2 8 2 ; l e g e n d o f

h i s d a n c i n g w i t h m i l k m a i d s , 2 8 5 , 2 8 8 ,

2 9 1 ; answers Draupadi's prayer,

2 9 2 ; s i m i l a r i t y b e t w e e n l e g e n d s o f

h i s b i r t h a n d Ch r i s t 's , 2 9 5 , 2 9 6 ; p o p u-

l a r c o l o u r e d p r i n t s o f h i s s t o r y , 2 9 7 ,

2 9 8 .

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3 5 9 .

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Madonna, the Every day, 3 99 ; J e s u s

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1 7 6 - 1 7 9 ; t e m p l e a t T r i p e l c a n e , 1 8 1 -

1 8 3 ; P r i n c e s s S a v a t r i o f , l e g e n d

a b o u t , 1 8 8 , 1 8 9 .

M a g d a l e n e , l e g e n d o f t h e , 2 7 3 .

Manning, Archbishop, on pr ogress,

3 8 5 , 3 8 6 .

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M a o r i s , d e p u t a t i o n o f , 6 9 .

M a r m o u t i e r , c o n v e n t o f , 4 0 0 .

M a r y l a n d , o r i g i n o f n a m e , 2 9 .

M e l b o u r n e , " C u p D a y , " 7 0 , 7 1 ; J o s s

Hou se, 7 1 ; mayor's banquet, 73 ;

B i s h o p o f , 7 5 , 7 6 .

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6 9 ; m i s co n c e p t i o n s o f , 1 1 9 , 1 2 0 , 1 3 6 ,

1 3 7 ; i n C e y l o n , 1 2 6 ; M o s l e m , 1 2 3 ,

1 2 4 ; i n c o n s i s t e n c y o f , 1 3 8 , 1 4 2 ; a n -

e c d o t e s o f , 3 0 5 , 3 0 6 .

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t o C . , 2 6 3 , 2 6 5 .

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M o n k e y T e m p l e a t B e n a r e s , 2 6 7 , 2 6 8 .

M o u n d , H e n r i , 4 0 5 .

M o o r h o u s e , B i s h o p , m a r t y r t o l i b e r -

a l i s m , 7 5, 7 6 , 8 9 , 9 0 , 1 0 4 .

M o r m o n s , p e r s e c u t i o n s o f , 4 0 ; p o l y g -

a m y , 4 1 , 4 2 ; e l d e r ' s s e r m o n , 4 3 , 4 4 ;

" G o d b e i te s , " 4 4 , 4 5 .

M o s l e m , s e r m o n b y a , 1 2 3 , 1 2 4 ; make .

b e l i e v e , 1 3 7 , 1 3 8 ; e x i l e i n C e y l o n ,

1 6 2 - 1 6 8 ; r e l i g i o n m i s u n d e r s t o o d , 1 6 6 ;

o r t h o d o x b e l i e f s , 2 5 0 ; s c h o l a r , A l i ,

2 5 2 - 2 5 4 .

Mozoomdar, Protap Chunder, Brahmo

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T y n d a l l , 2 2 1 , 2 2 2 .

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My Pilgramage to the Wise Men of the East-Moncure Daniel Conway-1906-449pgs-REL

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