MWB210 MAGAZINE FEBRUARY ISSUE

issue 210 | FeBruary 2014 | £6.95 | mwB-online.co.uk

From classic to contemporarythe best of what Moda has to offer this season—cut From the same clothMwb speaks to private white v.c designer nick ashley

weekendoffender.com

For AW14 sales and distribution enquiries contact

[email protected] +44(0)1332 342 068

SALES ENQUIRIESSOUTHERN ENGLAND NICK 07956 822959MIDLANDS MATT 0121 6931454NORTH & SCOTLAND CHRIS 07799 647512INTERNATIONAL VIKEN 07970 146280HEAD OFFICE GARETH 07951 949064

INTRODUCING

mwb210 Main Document_Layout 1 03/02/2014 12:41

FEBRUARY 2014 | CONTENTS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 05

12 Online InsiderAdvice, news and issues online

14 Retail InsiderThe latest in-store news

17 Business talkEssential advice from four key industry experts

24 Product newsRounding up the key stories this month

26 In-seasonSpring in your step

28 Tuning up for the new seasonPicks from Pitti Uomo

30 Peacocks and pea coats The finest street style from Florence

33 Spiewak relaunches for 110th anniversaryProfiling the classic American brand

36 London Collections: MenCream of the British crop

42 Moda LifestyleCasual and contemporary mainstream menswear

44 Moda TailoringA tailored approach to city dressing

46 Moda Shirts & TrousersDressing from top to bottom with the best in shirting and trousers

50 Moda AccessoriesEssential point of sale extras and add-ons

52 Moda Urban LifeThe best in urban, sports, surf and denim

56 Moda FootwearContinuing its reign as the largest footwear show in the UK

59 SelectContemporary and directional apparel and footwear

62 Moda InformationThe who, what and when from this month’s show


68 In-seasonHome run

70 From hide to fashion rideProfiling Derby independent Canopy

72 Bread & ButterWhat the Berlin show had to offer

74 Berlin voicesInterviews direct from German trade shows Seek and Premium

7 Comment8 News20 Interview

Nick Ashley

76 Collective79 The Bottomley Line82 Last Orders With…

Casely-Hayford

Front cover:

Atelier Scotch 0031 681934373

R E T A I L

G E N T

D E N I M & S T R E E T

M O D A

R E G U L A R S

We will be showing our new Autumn/Winter 14 Collection, along with ourupdated Stock Service lines at:

MODA Gent ExhibitionSunday 16th - Tuesday 18th February 2014NEC Birmingham - STAND MC41

Exclusive show offers for visitors to the above show.

For more information contact Julie Oates

E [email protected] T 0113 240 2211

FEBRUARY 2014 |MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 07

e d i t o r

Victoria Jackson [email protected]

—

d e p U t y e d i t o r

Tom Bottomley [email protected]

—

c o n t r i b U t o r s

Isabella Griffiths [email protected]

Laura Turner [email protected]

Christina Williams [email protected]

—

s U b e d i t o r

Amanda Batley [email protected]

—

d e s i g n e r s

Michael Podger [email protected]

James Lindley [email protected]

Clive Holloway [email protected]

Richard Boyle [email protected]

—

s a l e s M a n a g e r

Sharon Le Goff [email protected]

—

s U b s c r i p t i o n s

Caroline Mackinnon [email protected]

—

h e a d o f M e n s w e a r

Jamie Harden [email protected]

—

p r o d U c t i o n d i r e c t o r

Gill Brabham [email protected]

—

p o r t f o l i o d i r e c t o r

Nick Cook [email protected]

—

M a r k e t i n g d i r e c t o r

Stephanie Parker [email protected]

—

M a n a g i n g d i r e c t o r

Colette Tebbutt [email protected]

—

a buyer series fashion business publicationMwb is a fashion business publication produced by ras publishing

ltd. other titles in the buyer series include wwb and cwb. ras publishing ltd is an ite group plc company.

Mwb is published 11 times per year by ras publishing ltd, the old town hall,

lewisham road, slaithwaite, huddersfield hd7 5al. call 01484 846069 fax 01484 846232

copyright © 2014 Mwb Magazine limited. all rights reserved.reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any

purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictlyforbidden. neither ras publishing ltd nor its agents accept liability

for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submittedfor publication.

reprographics/printingImage Colourprint Ltd 01482 652323

—

with retailers experiencing some tough months recently, especially thosestill continuing to battle against the weather in the south of england – someof which is still under flood water eight weeks on – the news comes with acautious exhale of breath.

the mood across shows such as pitti Uomo and seek in berlin wasoptimistic and, when i think back to how flat the same shows seemed this timelast year, it was great to see the sombre mood had subsided, even perhaps if itwas just for show purposes. of course, when a journalist asks how things are, ialways hear the same “great”, “fantastic” and sometimes even the odd “neverbetter”, but this season it seemed more, dare i say it, genuine.

we spoke to independent retailer guy hudson this month (p8) whoseopinion on media coverage influencing consumer spending power i couldn’tagree with more. positive press helps to instill confidence in shoppers and, withthat, purse strings become a little looser. when all the news brings is doom andgloom, it’s no surprise that consumers batten down the hatches and retreat fromspending. but if your product mix is right and you’re offering them somethingthey want and can’t get down the road, you’re more than half way there.

this leads me onto our february issue. if new names and fresh product arewhat you’re looking for, be sure to check out Moda, which takes place atbirmingham’s nec later this month. with a raft of new names across appareland footwear, including dr Martens, Marshall artist, weekend offender andanerkjendt, this is one of the strongest contemporary line-ups the show has hadto date.

the Mwb team will be out in force at the three-day event, on the hunt forthe best-dressed man for the show's new initiative sunday best, where the mostdapper dresser will be awarded with a made-to-measure gibson london suit.i'll look forward to seeing your sartorial choices at the show.

Victoria Jacksoneditor

comment

our main news story in this issue ofmwB looks at the buoyant start 2014has got off to on the whole, followingfigures released by the office ofnational statistics, that showed theeconomy in the uk grew at its fastest annual rate since 2007 last year.—

FEBRUARY 2014 | NEWS |MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 08

HENRI LLOYD REVEALS FACEOF NEW SEASON

fresh from competing in the 2013 america’s cup,four-time gold medallist sir ben ainslie will fronthenri lloyd’s latest campaign inspired by the brand’srich maritime heritage. craig prest, creative directorfor henri lloyd, says, “spring 2014 is all about investingfurther into strong nautical looks and the very bestof british design. from seafaring stripes and colourblocking to indispensable seasonal staples, thecollection is easy to wear and easy to style.”

the label is keen to honour ainslie’sachievements, dubbing him a “true modern-daypioneer”. its campaign features shots by esteemedfashion photographer steve harries, and will bereleased alongside an exclusive behind-the-scenesvideo prior to the official collection launch this month.

—

WESTFIELD TRIALS “CLICKAND COLLECT”

london shopping destination westfield is trialling“click and collect” for customers at its shepherd’sbush location. shoppers will be able to order fromthe likes of asos, topshop and house of fraser, andthen pick up purchases from the collect+ @westfield lounge.

with fitting rooms available, customers are able to try on purchases in-store – a first in the Uk for online delivery service collect+. there are also set to be dedicated parking spaces available for click-and-collect customers. the service could beextended to the group’s other Uk shopping centresin stratford, birmingham and derby if found to besuccessful in shepherd’s bush.

—

N E W S

latest figures released by the office for national statistics (ons) have revealedthat the uk’s economy grew at its fastest annual rate since 2007 last year withoverall GDp having increased by 1.9 per cent in 2013, compared with 2012. thenews has been welcomed as the onset of a new chapter in the economical recovery, afteryears of doom and gloom that have affected all corners of business. Many indies up anddown the country indeed concur with the positive start to 2014, though most remaincautious about pronouncing a recuperation of the market just yet.

guy hudson, owner of lynx in harrogate, north yorkshire, has seen a markedimprovement in trade over the last few months, and attributes some of the change inconsumer confidence to more positive reports in the media. “i’ve noticed that things aregetting better since december,” he says. “the press is more positive, and it does thenhave a positive effect on the consumer; it influences them massively. it can encouragethem to hold back on spending or make them feel more confident and willing to go outand spend. we’ve had such a long and severe dip in the marketplace that i thinkconsumers are desperate for good news and to release the purse strings. we’ve had twopositive months in terms of the media, and this is reflected in footfall and takings.”

lewis tweedle, owner of lewis yates in billericay, essex, agrees. “things definitelyimproved over christmas and throughout last year,” he says. “i think people listen to thenews, and if it sounds as though the economy is getting better, they’re willing to spend.customer confidence is definitely up, but i still think that, as a retailer, you’ve got to beoffering them something they want, otherwise they won’t just spend anywhere.”

the tentatively positive outlook by indies is also backed by the british independentretailers association’s sales monitor for the last quarter of 2013, which reveals the bestaverage growth among indies since 2010. though just under half of independent retailerswho took part in the survey found things tougher, the fine balance between the twoproduced a small amount of net growth of just over one per cent. the report alsosuggests that independents are feeling confident about the year ahead, with levels ofconfidence said to be at their highest since 2009.

—

OPTIMISM MARKSSTART TO 2014

FEBRUARY 2014 | NEWS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 09

ASOS RECORDS 38 PER CENTSALES HIKE

Asos has revealed strong trading figures in the run-up to Christmas, with overall retail sales havingsoared by 38 per cent in the four months to 31December. UK sales rose by 37 per cent to £133.7m,while EU retail sales increased by 69 per cent to£87.3m and US sales to £32.3m, a rise of 28 per cent.

According to Asos, the e-tailer had 7.9 millionactive customers on 31 December, up by 41 per centon the previous year. “We have enjoyed anotherstrong Christmas and made a good start to thefinancial year, with retail sales growth for the fourmonths to 31 December 2013 up 38 per cent to£335.7m,” says Asos CEO Nick Robertson.

—

ANTHONY MILES ASSIGNSNEW CREATIVE MANAGER

Footwear label Anthony Miles, which launched in2012, has appointed former Kurt Geiger men’sproduction manager Chris Margetts as its newcreative manager.

The brand will also expand its offer forautumn/winter 2014 with two new sole units. This willinclude a new wedge sole that takes the block ofcolour at the heel and blends it neatly into the mid-section of the sole.

Further updates have been added across therange, alongside the incorporation of new materialsand techniques such as rubberised leather, which isdesigned to embody the brand’s minimal styling.

—

NATIONAL MANUFACTURINGCONFERENCE 2014

How Britain can double its exports by 2020 and bringmanufacturing home is just one topic to be discussedat the third National Manufacturing Conferencehosted by EEF, the organisation for UKmanufacturing companies. Entitled Make it Britain,the conference takes place on Tuesday 4 March 2014at the QE2 Centre, Westminster.

The event will see senior industrialists andpoliticians question how to rebuild thriving supplychains and meet the Chancellor’s target doubling ofexports to £1tn over the next six years. Keynotespeakers at the conference, sponsored by assetfinance provider Lombard, include secretary of statefor business Rt Hon Dr Vince Cable MP and chiefexecutive of GKN plc Nigel Stein. They will be joinedby some of the UK’s most successful manufacturingexporters including Angus Thirwell, CEO and co-founder of Hotel Chocolat.

—

SUPERGROUP APPOINTS HANSSCHMITT TO THE BOARD

SuperGroup, the parent company of lifestyle labelSuperdry, has assigned Hans Schmitt, managingdirector of international and wholesale at thecompany, to the board.

Schmitt, currently responsible for the wholesalebusiness in both the UK market and internationalSuperdry concessions, franchises and retail stores,will join the board from May 2014.

“Hans has brought extensive internationalexperience to SuperGroup,” says chairman PeterBamford. “His appointment to the board reflects hispersonal contribution to date and the significance ofour international growth strategy.

Schmitt adds, “After eight months in the role Iam more than convinced than ever in the size of theopportunity for the Superdry brand, and feel I canplay an important part in helping the team deliver it.”

—

DENIM LABEL WÅVEN LAUNCHES FOR A/W 14Autumn/winter 2014 will see the launchof contemporary denim label Wåven(pronounced woh-vuhn), across both themen’s and womenswear sector.

The men’s range, which wasshowcased at Jacket Required earlierthis month, comprises six styles ofjeans across 19 washes, alongside 22tops. The women’s line, meanwhile,offers 10 styles of jeans with 23washes and 25 tops.

Carrying inspiration from theluxury and contemporary denim market,Wåven is looking to target the trend-conscious 16-35 year old.

“We are so excited to announce thelaunch of Wåven at this season’s JacketRequired,” says Anika Islam, director,Wåven. “It is an honest brand -alongside our focus on product designand creativity, our main priorities arefit, fabric and wash, and we want tokeep true to this – a goal that ourextensive combined experience in denimdefinitely supports.” For sales andmore information contact JustConsultancies Ltd on 020 7739 7620.

—

MUSTO ANNOUNCES PARTNERSHIP WITH ABUDHABI OCEAN RACINGSailing clothing brand Musto hasannounced its partnership with AbuDhabi Ocean Racing for the 2014-15Volvo Ocean Race.

The Volvo Ocean Race, which visits10 cities in 10 countries, includingthe United Arab Emirates capital AbuDhabi, and covers 39,379 nauticalmiles, is acclaimed as the world’stoughest ocean race. Musto will be theofficial supplier of sailing appareland footwear for the next two editionsof the Volvo Ocean Race.

—

NEW SEASON SEES MARKETING BOOST FORLACOSTELifestyle label Lacoste has boosted itsmarketing budget for 2014, followingits acquisition in November 2012 bySwiss retail group Maus Frères.

The brand has unveiled a newmarketing campaign, which sees theintroduction of a new tag line, “Lifeis a beautiful sport”.

Lacoste plans to increase itsglobal marketing budget from five percent to 10 per cent. Digital and filmare expected to take 30 per cent, whileprint and billboard advertising willaccount for 40 per cent of the budget.

Overall sales last year increasedaround five per cent from €1.8bn, withgrowth in 2014 expected to come fromupgrading existing units rather thanfrom new stores.

—

E.TAUTZ COLLABORATES WITH ROYAL SCHOOLOF NEEDLEWORKMenswear designer Patrick Grant,creative director of E.Tautz, joinedforces with the students of the RoyalSchool of Needlework (RSN) for thebrand’s a/w 14 showcase at LondonCollections: Men earlier last month.

The range features embellished,hand-embroidered garments created bythe RSN students, who worked on keypieces such as shirts, a waistcoat anda contemporary twist on a biker jacket.

—

IN BRIeF

FEBRUARY 2014 | NEWS |MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 10

GANT APPOINTS NEW HEADOF WHOLESALE

gant has recruited steven kelly as head of wholesalefor gant Uk and ireland.

kelly will be responsible for all the brand’swholesale operation, leading and directing the teamsselling menswear, womenswear, childrenswear andhomeware, as well as developing some of the label’skey licence businesses that it plans to increase focuson including footwear, underwear and accessories.

“having reviewed our commercial structure andgiven the importance of developing our wholesalebusiness, we have strengthened our wholesale teamin order to deliver our plans over the next few years,”says fergus patterson, Md of gant Uk.

kelly has extensive wholesale fashionexperience, having worked previously at wolsey,Marc o’polo, dkny and fred perry.

—

GROWTH PLANS FORPANORAMA BERLIN

a larger venue for s/s 15 will support the continuedgrowth of fashion trade exhibition panorama berlin,which saw an 11 per cent increase in visitor figures thisseason compared to s/s 14. the event, whichattracted 40,081 visitors from 93 nations for a/w 14,also saw marked increase in collections shown, withfigures rising from 360 to 400.

the forthcoming s/s edition will, therefore,relocate from its current venue of the expocenterairport to a new Messe berlin location under thefunkturm radio tower. advantages of the move, aswell as providing more exhibition space across sixhalls, include space for fashion shows and easy accessto public transport.

—

NEW SALES MANAGER FORBASE LONDON

footwear label base london has appointed alanharrison as Uk sales manager. harrison rejoins the brand after a nine-year absence, during which he held roles at berghaus and grenson, to maintain and develop the brand’s position within the domesticUk market.

sales director Mark husted will continue tomanage base london’s key accounts and concentratehis focus on the label’s rapidly expanding exportbusiness.

“having alan back on board has allowed us toconcentrate on growing our international businesswithout neglecting our home market,” says husted.“he knows the business and the industry inside andout and has a great relationship with our network ofsales agents. it allows me to ensure our internationalmarkets receive the attention they individuallyrequire to thrive.”

—

BOXFRESH NAMES NEWCOMMERCIAL DIRECTOR

streetwear label boxfresh has announced theappointment of alistair Mccombe as its newcommercial director.

having previously worked at nike, Mccombehis looking to maximise the brand’s 25th anniversarysince launching. “for me, this year i will be puttingthe brand back on the map with the consumer,” saysMccombe. “we will excite our consumers again, sothey need to be able to find us.

“our strategy will focus on building greatpartnerships with our key Uk retailers, increasing ourfootprint in london, e-commerce and growing ourinternational business, which is already extremelystrong in germany,” he continues. “on top of all that,we intend to have some fun this year. there’s a lot todo, but also a lot to celebrate.”

—

FURTHER WOLSEY PIONEERS RECRUITEDBritish label Wolsey has welcomed onboard a series of new ambassadors – theWolsey Pioneers – in conjunction withthe release of its Sportsman line.

These include fashion designerJohan Lindeberg and pro golfers TomLewis, Robert Rock and James Heath, whowill join current ambassador polarexplorer Alex Hibbert.

The Sportsman Line is a range ofhigh-performance clothing and has beenreleased for the autumn/winter 2014buying season.

—

START-UP FASHION EVENT FOR YOUNGFASHION ENTREPRENEURSUKFT Rise, the network for ambitiousunder-35s in the fashion and textileindustry, held its debut StartupFashion networking event last month,giving budding fashion entrepreneursthe chance to meet and hear from someof the industry’s most influentialfigures.

The event took place at RBSheadquarters at 250 Bishopsgate on 28January and brought together a high-profile line-up of speakers, includingPatrick Grant, creative director ofE.Tautz and presenter of the GreatBritish Sewing Bee; Stylist magazine’sfashion director, Alexandra Fullerton;CEO of Karen Millen Mike Shearwood;Harrods head of PR Lauren Stevenson;and representatives from Ted Baker,Orla Kiely, Etsy and Olivia Rubin.

Providing an insight into launchingand running a successful fashionbusiness, the half-day event offeredadvice and guidance in a range of keyareas including routes to marketthrough retail, wholesale andinternational, building a brand throughmarketing and PR, financing a businessand production.

—

PAUL SMITH EXHIBITION EXTENDEDThe Design Museum’s latest fashionexhibition, “Hello, my name is PaulSmith”, which was due to end in March,has been extended until mid-June due to“significant public demand.”

In addition, the museum’s shop hasalso seen record sales of exhibitionmerchandise, with the most popularpurchase the exhibition catalogue,closely followed by the “Every day is anew beginning” button badge.

The exhibition charts the designer’sbeginnings from a 3m x 3m shop inNottingham to the global operation ofPaul Smith today. “Hello, my name isPaul Smith will now run until 22 Juneat the Design Museum London.

—

TEXTILE FORUM INTRODUCES MOREINSPIRATIONAL FABRICSAmong the new exhibitors at nextmonth’s fashion fabric show TextileForum is military fabric specialist A WHainsworth. It will join more than 50fabric collections during the two-dayevent aimed at buyers of daywear,eveningwear, bridalwear, lingerie andaccessories, for men, women andchildren. Other new exhibitors arePlatinum Bridal Fabrics, Partap FashionFabrics and Zia Embroideries. TextileForum takes place on 5-6 March at OneMarylebone, Regent’s Park. As part ofits plans to develop Textile Forum, anew website and registration system haslaunched. Visit www.textileforum.co.uk.

—

in BrieF

FEBRUARY 2014 | ADVICE |MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 12

online insiDeradvice, news and issues online.

weB watch

www.hiphunters.com

Making its online debut for 2014, hiphunters.comis a new style platform for the Uk, with a focus onnew brands and cutting-edge premium designers.comprising a shop, magazine and online community,the site has partnered with e-commerce sitesincluding farfetch, My-wardrobe.com and ln-ccto present the best these stores have to offer.hiphunters also publishes a digital magazinemonthly with sector news and local street style. amix of pinterest and tumblr, visitors to the site canshare content through its community platform.

—

advice: why retailers must prepare Fortimes oF peak DemanD in 2014

Jim DaViDson ismanager ofmarketing research atBronto software andcan be contacted atwww.bronto.co.uk

it is vital for online retailers to exploit peak trading times, now more thanever, by analysing trends and discovering the most successful way toincrease site traffic. email marketing has been proven to radically increasetraffic, if utilised in the right way to suit your business.

email marketing stats across peak christmas trading times, includingblack friday and cyber Monday, can account for up to 40% of a retailer’sannual revenue, but other national holidays and times of year are just asimportant to keep revenue consistent throughout the year. for example;valentine’s day, easter, and events such as the 2014 fifa world cup. ofcourse, different times of year will apply more significantly to differentretailers.

planning is key. get a structure in place that you can follow throughoutthe year, re-introducing popular promotions through email marketingcampaigns. if a time of peak trade is coming up, start your campaign earlyand beat your competitors to the sale.

Messaging is always going to be one of the most important aspects ingetting your campaign right – don’t confuse promotions, and keep thecontent fresh and exciting. contemplate building your narrative for the daywith multiple emails, but keep the mix fresh with design and contentdifferences. if you don’t have the resources to make the emails radicallydifferent – make noticeable design changes and alter the subject line. this isa great alternative solution when it’s difficult to create new campaigns.

email traffic over the christmas period tends to be at its lowest in theearly morning and peaking around 7am, lunchtime, 3pm and 5-6pm. considerthough, the email inbox will be at its fullest at these times, so subject linesaround peak times must be very informational in order to stand out fromothers – perhaps announcing big sales and last chance to buy offers.

give your business its best chance at flourishing in 2014 with a solidemail marketing strategy.

—

CARNABY STREET LAUNCHES INTERACTIVESOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMCarnaby Street, home to some of thebiggest names in fashion retail, haslaunched a fully integrated socialmedia website, Carnaby.co.uk.

The online concept featuresfashion, lifestyle and food andincludes a micro-platform for brandsand independent shoppers. Consumers canengage in real-time interactions withCarnaby’s shops and restaurants whilebrowsing the latest news and events,promotions, prize draws and storeinformation.

Over 200 brands, including Diesel,Eleven Paris and Lyle & Scott, areintegrated into the website, with bothbrands and shoppers encouraged toconnect with Carnaby by using #Carnabyand sharing information and comments onproducts, launches, new collections andexperiential events.

“Visitors are engaging with Carnabyshops, bars and restaurants directlyand sharing their opinions andexperiences with other consumers inreal time,” says Clare Harris, head ofcommunications at property companyShaftesbury. “Carnaby.co.uk ischampioning user-generated content,enabling our tenants to engage directlywith shoppers, introducing potentialcustomers to their latest products.”

A spokesperson for denim specialistReplay, whose flagship store is onCarnaby Street, adds, “Carnaby.co.ukallows us to engage and encourage newconversations and build relationshipswith customers online, even before theyhave visited the Replay store.”

—

news

WW

W.D

IGEL

.DE MODA MENSWEAR

BIRMINGHAM HALL 20, STAND MC 3016.02. 18.02.2014

North of England & ScotlandRob Daviesmobile: 07787-793863email: [email protected]

Midlands, Norfolk, Su� olk & North WalesSimon Beardmobile: 07932-172944email: [email protected]

South of England, South Wales & Channel IslandsMike Pincombemobile: 07710-213092email: [email protected]

WW

W.D

IGEL

.DE MODA MENSWEAR

BIRMINGHAM HALL 20, STAND MC 3016.02. 18.02.2014

North of England & ScotlandRob Daviesmobile: 07787-793863email: [email protected]

Midlands, Norfolk, Su� olk & North WalesSimon Beardmobile: 07932-172944email: [email protected]

South of England, South Wales & Channel IslandsMike Pincombemobile: 07710-213092email: [email protected]

FEBRUARY 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

ReTAILINSIDeR

VIEWPOINT

So another season is over. The madness of aChristmas rush and the clearing of our“mistakes” in the January sale are behind us.Like so many of you we greet the New yearwith buying, and for me it always starts with atrip to Bread & Butter. However, in recentseasons I have felt slightly underwhelmed bythe offering at Bread & Butter for the UKmarket. It appears to be more relevant tostreetwear and Central European fashion.

The offering this year was smaller than inprevious years, with fewer exhibitors and amore “spacious” feel. The show appeared to bedominated by Scandinavian brands, with someBritish and German suppliers completing theline-up. The footwear offering was dominatedby the casual and fashion trainer brands, withNew Balance leading the way with its usualbold colours and designs. Similar productswere also shown from the likes of ReebokClassics and Diadora.

As for clothing, British heritage brandswere as popular as ever, with a lot of buzzaround a busy Barbour stand. The brand’sstaple quilt design remains strong and it addeddepth with new fabrication. Fashion waxjackets look certain to be strong next autumn,too, for those looking to move on from quilts.Similarly, Lyle & Scott did what it does bestwith great knitwear, micro-cable knits andtextured pieces in rich traditional colours. Thelabel has also increased jersey options toinclude heavy marl-effect sweaters to sitalongside simple block colours.

Generally speaking, leather coats made aresurgence, too, but it remains to be seenwhether it will translate to the shop floor in the UK.

Will I return next season? Almost certainlybut, without the other shows runningalongside Bread & Butter, I would have toquestion this myself. One thing that probablywon’t be around next season – beards. Thetrend for heavy beards appears to be over, andI for one won’t be sad to see them go.www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

JOHN LEWIS SPONSORS GLASGOW 2014

COMMONWEALTH GAMES

John Lewis is the “official department store provider” of the Glasgow 2014 Commonwealth Games – apartnership that will see the retailer supply bedding and white goods for the Athletes’ Village.

Additionally, Glasgow 2014 merchandise is available to buy on www.johnlewis.com and, later in theyear, dedicated Glasgow 2014 shops will open within the retailer’s Scottish stores in Glasgow, Edinburghand Aberdeen.

The department store’s sponsorship of the Glasgow Games builds on its support of London 2012,where John Lewis’ sales of London 2012 official merchandise across the country exceeded expectationsby 25 per cent, while sales of its own-brand celebratory range, Celebration of Britain, were 44 per centhigher than expected.

—

IN BRIeF

The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.—

RENEWED OPTIMISM AMID INDEPENDENTS Nearly two thirds of independent retailersare “confident” or “very confident” aboutbusiness in 2014, according to the latestsales monitor from British IndependentRetailers Association (bira).Additionally, more than half of smallshops taking part in the survey saw theirbest average growth in the last quarter of2013 since 2010, and just over a third ofrespondents are now trading online, withthose that are doing this deriving, onaverage, an eighth of their turnover fromthis channel.

—

AUSSIE TAILOR TARGETS UK MARKET Australian online bespoke tailor InStitchuhas set its sights on the UK market, amove it has supported with the opening ofa UK office in South London. InStitchuworks by allowing men to design a bespokeshirt or suit online, complete withcustomised options. Following a quickturnaround, it is then home delivered.Aspirations for the UK arm of the businessinclude pop-up shops and potentially abricks-and-mortar store going forward.

—

KARL ROSheR is a menswearbuyer at Coes, Ipswich, and is amember of the FashionAssociation of Britain

FEBRUARY 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: heROeS

IN FOCUS: SeVeNWOLVeS

SELFRIDGES LONDONPREVIEWS FESTIVAL OF

IMAGINATION

Festival of Imagination is the latest campaignlaunched by Selfridges to encourage people toexplore the power of their imagination with theaid of some inspirational personalities. A line-upof “imagineers”, including Lucy Hawking, thenovelist and daughter of scientist StephenHawking, will give over 100 talks, lectures anddiscussions in Imaginariums in Selfridges stores inLondon, Manchester and Birmingham.

Festival of Imagination runs until 2 March andfollows on from the retailer’s successful 2013campaign No Noise, which celebrated silence,meditation and the “less is more” approach.

—

how’s business been, and are you confident going forward intospring/summer? On the whole, business has improved gradually sincewe opened in September 2012. September to December 2013 wereour busiest months, with considerable growth, so we are confidentand more than excited going forward into spring/summer. —What new brands are you bringing that you hope will be attractive toyour customers? We have a couple of new brands coming in to

increase our apparel such as Italian labels Hamaki-Ho and Gaudi. They will complement the brands thatwe have had great success with in a/w 13 such as V-Neck, a beautiful Italian knitwear company, andGrand Tour – English style but made in Italy. We arestill finding our feet, so are continuing to seek out

smaller or less mainstream brands that have something interesting orinnovative to offer without going down the overly quirky route.—how is your a/w 14 buying going, are you changing anything? We areplanning on reducing the footwear to allow space and money for theadditional clothing brands we have taken on. This was something wealways knew would be a welcomed eventuality.—What have consistently been your best-performing brands andproduct types? Boots have been our bread and butter in terms offootwear, in particular Red Wing and Wolverine. They are both nichelabels but, after the first six months, they took off. In terms of clothing,Holland Esquire has again performed valiantly in Richmond, and looksto continue that way. —

NOTTINGHAM’S SHOPPING SCENE MARKED FORREVAMP Nottingham City Council has signed aconditional development agreement withshopping centre operator Intu for a £190mredevelopment of its two shopping centresover the coming years. Plans include theregeneration of Nottingham’s IntuBroadmarsh shopping centre, car park andsurrounding public realm improvements, aswell as the current work underway toremodel and refurbish the Intu VictoriaCentre ahead of a wider development andextension of the shopping centre.

—

MIChAeL DAVISON,CO-FOUNDER,HEROES, RICHMOND,SURREY

24 exChANGe STReeT, NORWICh NR2 1Ax

eSTABLISheD: 2011BRANDS: FOLK, OLIVERSPENCER, UNIVERSALWORKS, LIBERTINELIBERTINE, NORSEPROJECTS, OURLEGACY, BWGH, YMC,WESTWOODANGLOMANIA, LEVI’SMADE & CRAFTED,NUDIE, EDWIN,PATAGONIA, PENFIELD,CARHARTT, BARBOUR,GANT RUGGER

Partners and life-long friends Nick Snell and Robin Norton launched Sevenwolves in 2011,conceived from a long-term desire to evolve their original concept of Dogfish – the store theylaunched in Norwich 1992 and Cambridge 1994 – and to expand beyond its streetwear-inspired brandmix to appeal to the ever-evolving taste of its audience who were looking for a more premiumlifestyle way of dressing. But the Dogfish ethos has been retained with a relaxed and welcomingstore. It became more and more obvious that there was a need to create an alternative environmentto support the expanding movement towards the contemporary market, and it was clear from thestart that the Sevenwolves formula appealed to a much broader demographic than Dogfish – literallyan average age of 20-60 and up. There are white walls and old heavy metal warehouse rails,dedicated branded corners and a piece of luxury in the shape of a B&B Italia sofa. The changingrooms are spacious and discreet, but the key asset is selling a broad spectrum of brands but keepingit connective, realistic and with a nod and a wink to the Dogfish roots.

—

IN BRIeF

Création Gross GmbH & Co. KG // Houbirgstraße 7 // 91217 Hersbruck // Phone +44 (0) 207 937 58 63 E-Mail: [email protected] // carlgross.com

Création Gross GmbH & Co. KG // Houbirgstraße 7 // 91217 Hersbruck // Phone +44 (0) 207 937 58 63 E-Mail: [email protected] // carlgross.com

FEBRUARY 2014 | RETAIL | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 17

BUSINeSS TALKMWB highlights some of the key issues affecting independent retailers as they move into2014, with essential advice from four key industry experts.—

To what extent a worker on long-term sick leave, who has beenunable to take holiday due to sickness, is entitled to carry forwardaccrued but untaken holiday to a subsequent leave year has beenhotly debated in courts throughout europe.

The European Working Time Directive (the Directive) governs this areaof law and was implemented in the UK by way of the Working TimeRegulations 1998 (WTR).

Workers in the UK are entitled to 28 days annual leave per year: • 20 days “ordinary” annual leave (regulation 13, WTR), a right

guaranteed by the Directive.• 8 days “additional” annual leave (regulation 13A, WTR), a right under

domestic legislation only.

It is established law that ordinary annual leave can be carried over byworkers on long-term sick leave, but not whether the “additional” eightdays could be carried over. The Employment Appeal Tribunal (EAT)gave its view in Sood Enterprises v Healy.

Mr Healy was on sick leave from July 2010 until June 2011. He hadtaken 11 days’ holiday out of his 28-day entitlement in 2010 and hadaccrued 14 days’ holiday in 2011, when his employment ended. Hereceived no payment in lieu of accrued holiday on termination of hisemployment and brought unpaid holiday claims. The employmenttribunal relied on the EAT decision in NHS Leeds v Larner, in which theEAT found that a worker who was signed off sick for the entire leaveyear was presumed not to have been well enough to exercise what theECJ has described as the “right to enjoy a period of relaxation andleisure” and could carry over the full 28-day holiday entitlement to thenext leave year. The EAT, however, held instead that regulation 13A ofthe WTR did not allow for the carrying over or payment in lieu of theadditional eight days’ entitlement. Therefore it was only up to 20 daysordinary annual leave that could be carried forward.

This decision is good news for employers as it goes some way toreducing the potentially high cost of accrued holiday pay for departingstaff after long periods of sick leave. The Coalition has indicated thatwhen the WTR are amended in line with recent ECJ decisions onholiday and sickness, its intention is to enshrine the principle in Soodin the amended legislation, and this judgment should go some way topush government in the right direction.—Joanna Chatterton is a partner in the Fashion Law Group at Fox Williams LLP, specialising in employment law. Email [email protected] or call 020 7614 2617.

hOW DOeS NeW

SICK PAy RULING

AFFeCT eMPLOyeRS?

e-commerce was certainly on the up in 2013 and, with the trend onlyexpected to grow further during 2014, how can businesses ensure theyare making the most of the opportunities open to them?

DON’T IGNORE THE HIGH STREETOnline retail may be seen as a replacement for the high street but, in 2014,e-commerce sites will need bricks-and-mortar stores more than ever. Asconsumers switch to shopping across multiple channels and blend onlinewith offline shopping, e-commerce companies should be looking toestablish a high-street presence, so customers can see products up closeand try before they buy.

OFFER A PERSONALISED SERVICE It’s becoming more important to treat customers as individuals, however arecent study by customer experience expert SDL suggested that 36 percent of European online retailers have not invested in in-housepersonalisation services for customers. Retailers should offer customerstailored recommendations and send them targeted messages about dealsthat may interest them or gently remind them about abandoned shoppingcarts to show they are noticed and valued.

CREATE A MOBILE-FRIENDLy SITEToday’s shoppers want to make purchases on the go, and are using mobiledevices to access the web. Data from SplitPixel predicts that there will bean 84 per cent increase in mobile devices’ share of website hits between2013 and 2014 while, by next year, more than half of people will have usedmobile devices to carry out online purchases. Where possible, make sureyou factor mobile shopping in your e-commerce strategy to avoid alienatingthis growing customer base.

KEEP yOUR WEBSITE UPDATEDKeeping website content regularly updated can be time consuming, but itis important to the success of an e-commerce store. Not only will it increaseyour website’s searchability, but updating with high-quality, appropriatevideo, image-led and written content will single you out as a knowledgeableresource and keep consumers coming back.

TARGET ExISTING CUSTOMERSData gathered by yotpo shows that new visitors spend an average of twominutes and 31 seconds on a site, compared with five minutes and 31seconds for returning visitors. Returning visitors also look at more pagesper visit on average and are more likely to make purchases, meaningcampaigns that target existing customers can pay off – so don’t forget themor assume their continued loyalty.—James Hardy is head of Europe for Alibaba.com.

hOW CAN I MAKe

The MOST OF ONLINe

OPPORTUNITIeS?

>>>

FEBRUARY 2014 | RETAIL | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 18

British fashion brands have two advantages when it comes to theinternational fashion market. Firstly, the UK has a reputation forexciting, innovative designers, creating a global appetite for Britishfashion. Secondly, there is a strong infrastructure in Britain – bothonline and offline – to enable your wares to reach a worldwidemarket. The UK exports £3.9bn in clothing and footwear every year,and this number is growing all the time. If you are looking to growand strengthen your fashion business, exporting to foreign marketscould set you on the road to international success.

Small clothing, footwear and accessories brands are well suited toonline trading or e-commerce, allowing them to reach a worldwidecustomer base without having to pay large overheads and upfrontcosts. Choosing the right market for your goods is important, and itmay be worth focusing on one country or a handful rather thanspreading your resources too thinly, especially when you are new toexporting.

Designers should consider the local culture when assessing thelikely demand for their products. There has traditionally been a highdemand in China for high-end fashion labels, but increasingly thetrendy youth population is seeking unique, unbranded items to definetheir individuality. Establishing local partnerships can be key to gainingon-the-ground insight and, if you are not opting for a purely e-commerce model, choosing the right distributors may make or breakyour business in that country. you might like to start by creating anexport plan and populate it with research on your target market,including language spoken, time zone, business etiquette, currencyrate, inflation, transport links, levels of consumer spending and, mostimportantly, demand in that market for your product or service.

An understanding of the necessary customs, finance andimport/export regulations will also go a long way to facilitatingdistribution abroad, and help is at hand in the form of advisory bodies.UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) offers a range of services for UKexporters, including a flexible business tool called the Overseas MarketIntroduction Service (OMIS) and the Tradeshow Access Programme,which offers grants to enable firms to attend overseas trade fairs. TheBritish Chambers of Commerce (BCC) also offers export trainingservices. DHL, meanwhile, provides free support and guidance to smallbusinesses looking to export.—Sue Perry-Whitehead, direct sales channel director, DHL

WhAT’S TO CONSIDeR

WITh INTeRNATIONAL

exPORTING?

how do you value compensation to be paid to your agent on terminationof the agency agreement? For some time, the position has been clear –compensation is the price that a notional third-party purchaser wouldpay for the agency if the agency had continued and was made availablefor sale on the open market.

Usually, the amount in question is determined on the basis of expertevidence put forward by agent and principal.

Indeed, this was the position in the latest reported court caseconcerning compensation. The experts in this case had agreed the directcosts of the agency. But there was a dispute as to the indirect costs to bededucted from the profits of the agency in order to ascertain the netincome stream. The agent held a number of agencies with differentprincipals. The agencies generated an aggregate annual commission ofaround £1m. Accordingly, the £60,000 annual commission that wasachieved under the terminated agency agreement represented only a smallproportion of the agent’s total commissions received each year. The agent’sexpert claimed that the majority of the agent’s overheads should beregarded as fixed costs because they would continue to be required tosupport the agent’s other agencies, whether or not the agent still had theagency with the former principal.

Unsurprisingly, the former principal’s expert disagreed. Instead, heproposed “absorption costing”, by which all overheads (including fixedcosts) were to be apportioned to costs centres and income streams usingpre-determined rates. The court preferred the evidence of the agent’sexpert on fixed costs. However, what of the multiplier to be applied to theannual net income stream? The former principal argued that a multiplier of2 times should be applied. In contrast the agent argued that a multiplier of7 times should be applied. The judge, in a Solomonesque decision,determined that a multiplier of 4.5 times would be applied to the netincome stream. While this was less than the amount the agent had sought,it is the case that it was still 250 per cent more than the principal hadoffered to pay and, with a certain degree of planning, the principal couldpossibly have avoided having to make a payment of this amount.

To avoid paying compensation, the principal must provide in theagency agreement that on termination the agent will be entitled under theregulations to an indemnity and not compensation.

If the payment of compensation or indemnity is to be avoided, thenthe principal must point to a material breach of the agency by the agentwhich justifies immediate termination. —Stephen Sidkin is a partner in Fox Williams LLP (www.agentlaw.co.uk, www.fashionlaw.co.uk).

hOW DO yOU

VALUe AGeNT

COMPeNSATION?

FEBRUARY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 20

DeSIGNeRPRIVATe WhITe V.C

INTeRVIeW

Private White V.C’s factory inSalford, Manchester, specialises inouterwear and has made for thelikes of Burberry, Aquascutum,Nigel Cabourn and Baracuta. Thesedays, though, private-label work islimited, as the focus is now onbuilding the brand in its own righton an international scale – hence thedebut at January’s Pitti Uomo. Tom Bottomley gets the lowdownfrom designer – and colourfulcharacter – Nick Ashley.—Tom Bottomley: how long have you beendesigning for Private White V.C now?Nick Ashley: I’ve been here three years and it’staken that time to get to this stage where we’reshowing at Pitti. It’s kind of like, “Welcome to thereal world.”—TB: how did designing for the brand come aboutin the first place?NA: I had been using its factory for about 25 years.The factory has been called many things over theyears, including four-letter words. Mike Stoll,whom I’ve been dealing with for many years, hasbeen kicked around and treated rough for a longtime and had finally had enough. He sold thebusiness to James Eden, though he still works onthe factory floor and handles the small private-labelwork under the original Cooper & Stollbrand name.

James is the great grandson of Jack White (hencePrivate White V.C) who started the factory in 1919after World War I. He’s put in a dynamic new energy,and a different approach towards business. He got me in to design the product and decided to doit vertically with an own label and selling it himself.The obvious thing with a vertically integrated set-up is to open your own stores, which we didn’twant to do because our strengths are designing and making.

NICK AShLey

FEBRUARY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 21

—TB: But you still have the London shop?NA: We do have the shop on Lambs ConduitStreet but, to be honest, we’re the most expensiveproduct on the street because we’re the only oneswho make in the UK. For some people we’refrighteningly expensive, and we probably need torelocate the brand to a location that fits the labelbetter. There’s an awful lot of making up as we goalong, and it’s difficult. We’re doing somethingthat’s not really been done before because we’rean uber-luxury British factory. There’s only oneplace higher than us in terms of make, quality andprice, and that’s Savile Row. Mayfair wouldcertainly suit us. But we may just bypass the wholething and go straight to Tokyo to open a shop. —TB: Why Tokyo?NA: It will have the footfall, and it will fly becausethe people there understand the product. They’llsave up for it and buy it because it enriches theirsoles. The Japanese understand a “high touch”product. We start with the sheep, we end up withthe shop. It’s like an Italian restaurant – you go forfish in an Italian restaurant and start off with a liveone in a tank. And we’re exactly the same withclothing – so we’re unique. It’s got to be expensiveand exclusive, and we make no bones about it. It’shard for British people to get a handle on that. InBritain we spend so much money on our housesand our kids’ education that we don’t have anydisposable income left for spending on greatthings, unlike the Germans, Italians and Japanese– they’ve got their life structured in a different way.So we have to go with them, because they are thepeople that hanker after this type of product. —TB: What are your ambitions for the brand?NA: James is the last man standing. The factory inManchester was there at the start of the industry,and when it’s gone, it’s gone. The whole of theManchester ship canal – from Liverpool toManchester – was built for the industry, but it’s allgone apart from this. I dream of getting a ship intoManchester, filling it with product and sailing it to China – and selling a whole load of clothesthere. Then I can die a happy man. Out of the mill,out of the factory and even take the voyage –smoking Capstan Full Strength and drinking rumall the way!—

TB: How would you best describe your ownbackground?NA: Well, my DNA is design and manufacturing. Iwas born into a family that had factories andworkshops. When they were building up the LauraAshley business, my parents put all their moneyinto it, to the extent that we were brought up intents – army style. My mother grew her ownvegetables and we had a goat for milk. When theyhad spare change they rented a caravan, so wetraded up trailer trash. School holidays were spentin the factory packing boxes, cleaning machinesand so on. I really have done rags to riches.

My parents’ business was started in 1953. Mymother died in 1985. She died the same year thebusiness went public and that was the end of it.They say the most important part of a brand is theemotion behind it and, when my mother died, theemotion had gone. Therefore, with Private WhiteV.C, I quickly realised that it needed the emotion.These Manchester guys had to realise what theyhad, and before James came along they didn’thave a clue – they were used to being hammeredto hell to produce cheaper product. They just hadto realise they were operating a good factory,paying top wages for old skills and producinggreat product. It was a case of, “You’ve got to getinto the luxury arena, boys.” Of course, it’sfrightening when it’s not what you’re used to.

TB: You were more used to designing for theluxury market during your time at Dunhillthough, right?NA: You could say that, but I always designedpremium stuff, including when I did my own labeland I had my own shop in Notting Hill. I was atDunhill for three years from around 2003 as headof casual menswear, Richard James was tailoredclothes, Bill Amberg was leather goods and TomBolt was on watches. Theycalled us the four musketeersand we had a blast.—TB: Where does your designinspiration come from?NA: My card says it all really –I’m a “people watcher”. I do mywork walking around a showlike Pitti when I go to get mylunch. That’s my research –

to see how people wear clothes. I’m an editor, I’mnot designing; I’m re-designing and making itrelevant to today’s people and how they live.—TB: What else drives you?NA: There’s a lot to do with socio-economicsituations. We’ve got China coming up, but it’s anunsophisticated market at the moment so they’regoing to walk straight past Private White V.C andbuy Burberry. Burberry is an old brand, but it’s alsomade in China, so it is Chinese people buyingChinese goods, and that’s unsophisticated. Butthey will learn, and they will learn fast. Give thema couple of years and they’ll be buying our stuff.We have to position ourselves so that, in a fewyears time, we’re ready. —TB: What are the key pieces in the new a/w 14collection?NA: I’d say the Twintrack jacket, so named becausethe zip can be fastened more tightly for summerand looser for winter to accommodate a chunkypiece of knitwear. It comes in Brisbane Moss waxcotton. Also, the Jeepcoat in washable 3110, amilitary spec cotton drill, with raw state sheepskin,and a bomber jacket in Harris Tweed withsheepskin collar. It’s a hybrid mix of Americanmilitary design, and hand-woven wool from the isleof Harris, so Anglo American mid-Atlantic chic ifyou want to put a fashion spin on it.—TB: Which are your best accounts in the UK?NA: We don’t have any at the moment; we sellthrough our own shop and online. We were at Pitti for wholesale reasons, of course, but werepicking up more people from Scandinavia whoreally understand our stuff, and stockists fromAmerica. Germany is also a fantastic market for us.We had interest from the UK and wrote a feworders. Britain is a small place and, as I say, people

spend all their money onhouses and education. If youcompare it even to Italy,there’s a vast difference.People dress beautifully, eatbeautifully and have loads ofsex. That’s their priority in life.Their economy is knackered,but they’re having a greattime. Let’s all move to Italy! —

“I’ve been herethree years and it’staken that time toget to this stagewhere we’reshowing at Pitti.It’s kind of like,‘Welcome to thereal world’”

2014AUTUMN WINTER

TO BOOK AN APPOINTMENT PLEASE CONTACT JOULES ON T: +44 (0) 1858 435261 E: [email protected]

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | CONTENTS | 23

Born in Helsinki, Frenn is a label that MWB discovered at the recent edition of Seek, Berlin. Designed for the“urban working man”, the brand was the brainchild of Antti Laitinen and Jarkko Kallio, both of which haveworked in the fashion and textile industry for a number of years.

The label’s autumn/winter 2014 collection marries smart, clean lines with relaxed tailoring and luxe fabrics,including moleskin, bamboo, organic cottons and knitted merino wool. The manufacturing and production ofthe range is carried out throughout Europe including Estonia, with fabrics sourced from Italy, Portugal andLithuania. “There’s nothing wrong with mass production when it’s done responsibly, with attention to quality,”says Laitinen. “The era of sweatshops are over; the future lies in a completely different direction. Dressinguniquely doesn’t necessarily mean one-off pieces.”

With standalone stores in Finland and various stockists across Europe, the next market in the designduo’s sight is the UK, with a number of select doors planned for the new season.

—

G E N T

fInnISHfIrST


26 In-seasonSpring in your step

28 Tuning up for the new seasonPicks from Pitti Uomo

30 Peacocks and pea coats The finest street style from Florence

33 Spiewak relaunches for 110th anniversaryProfiling the classic American brand

36 London Collections: MenCream of the British crop

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 24

raDarSpotlighting style.

ProDUCT neWSInside menswear.

ESTABLISHED: 1937—SIGNATURE STYLE: Baracuta is synonymous with the classic G9Harrington jacket.—HISTORY: International distributor WP Lavori in Corso acquired the heritage brand in 2012, presenting its first collection together at Pitti Uomo for s/s 13. Baracuta offers the Ivory Label, which is its corecollection, and designer range Blue Label by Jeff Griffin.

In a bid to continue injecting innovation into Baracuta’s premium line,Blue Label, WP Lavori has called upon the skills of Jeff Griffin,appointing the designer creative director for a/w 14. Jeff Griffin’s ownline, Griffin, was established in 1994 and he has since become renownedfor creating ground-breaking garments and collaborating with keyartists and brands worldwide, breaking down boundaries betweenurban and outdoor, fashion and art.

With the partnership between Griffin and Baracuta cemented bya shared loved of British design and the championing of Britishmanufacture and fabric production, the Blue Label a/w 14 line focuseson traditional themes commonly seen in British menswear. Thesethemes have been reinterpreted, however, to create wearable yetcontemporary and novel garments using fabrics from some of Britain’sfinest mills including Harris Tweed from Scotland – one of Griffin’sfavourite British mills – and Utexbel, one of the oldest military fabricproducers in Europe.

Key items include the Harris Tweed G9 utilitarian bomber-stylejacket and the reversible camouflage G9, which plays on the classicFraser tartan lining and offers two very different looks depending onwhich side the wearer chooses to use as the outer. www.baracuta.com

BARACUTABLUE LABEL

WEARING THETROUSERS

A/w 14 sees German trouserspecialist MMX present dramaticcolour and material mixes, withstylish cuts and slimline silhouettesfeaturing new interpretations ofclassic patterns and use ofinnovative finishes.

Comprising three ranges:Casual, offering relaxed everydaylooks; Collection, focusing onclassic styles; and Style, reflectingurban trends, a/w 14 highlightsinclude classic diamond patterns,washed wool fibres, leather pipingon pocket openings, tweedflannel, cashmere and heavycotton trousers.

—

WINTER WEAR

Established in 2005, Norwegian lifestyle brand Swims, which specialisesin water-resistant products for men and women, has developed its a/w 14 offering to include new footwear styles and an outerwear collection.

Swims’ winter footwear, which has previously consisted of acollection of waterproof and water-resistant boots for men and women,has, due to demand, developed to include winter footwear that can beworn in warmer regions. To accompany the footwear, the brand also hasa new classic outerwear collection which, while highly technical andconvenient for winter conditions, also incorporates fashion influences.

—

DANISHDELIGHTS

key amid danishmenswear label sandcopenhagen’s a/w 14offering is a variety ofouterwear options,ranging from cashmerecoats through to lightdown jackets, neo-dandy dinnerjackets in printed velvet,and single or doublebreasted blazers.

other highlightsinclude waistcoats,tailormade flanneltrousers, printed chinosand shirts through hand-knitted cardigans, jumpersand fine roll-necks. the brand’s a/w 14 colourpalettes are shades of burgundy, Urban safari,which includes tones of tan and khaki,Monochrome, petrol blue and pop colours.

—


on trendproDuct newsinside menswear.

chapman has produced hand-crafted bags for travel, leisure, business andsporting activities for decades, and is one of the last remaining companiesto make its bags exclusively in the uk. the company has, in fact, recentlyopened a new carlisle manufacturing facility, significantly enhancing itscapacity and capabilities. this is the first phase of a programme that will seethe brand invest in buildings, machinery, systems, skills and trainingsupported by its shareholders, cumbria county council and the cumbrialep regional growth fund.

taking inspiration from the lake district and its surrounding borders,the bags are designed to survive the rigours of life, using quality materialsuch as solid brass hardware, naturally bonded layers of pure cotton drill andrubber, military grade 100 per cent cotton webbing and sam brownefastenings, all hand-crafted with double-stitched zips. its heritage status,meanwhile, is supported by an extensive archive of british countryside bagsfor game and fishing, and design blueprints that are still used to producebags today.

divided into collections for travel, city and country, highlights includeweekend holdalls, laptop bags, totes, shopping bags, picnic bags andbackpacks. the collection also includes wallets and wash bags. www.chapmanbags.com

BranD to watch

ESTABLISHED: 1984—SIGNATURE STYLE: Bags created using qualitymaterials, with designs inspired bythe Lake District and an extensivearchive of British countryside bagsfor game and fishing. —HISTORY:Founded by John Chapman over 20 years ago, the Made in Britainlabel is now looking to enter selectindependent retailers throughoutthe UK.

1 2

3 4

5

1: CHAPMAN BAGS£37.50 01228 514514

2: SIMON CARTERprice on request 020 8683 4475

3: ICON£10.42 020 3137 7217

4: CHERCHBI£120 07970 603278

5: GIBSON LONDONprice on request 01405 782830

seasonal extras: ipad cases

chapMan bags


SPrIng In YoUr STePThe defining piece in any gent’s wardrobe, the single-breasted

blazer returns in relaxed cuts, complete with roundedshoulders and in a plethora of neutrals and blues.

—

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

JOULES £54.20 01858 435255 SAMSØE & SAMSØE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7148 6396 BARBOUR £84.45 0800 009 988

GIBSON £46 01405 782813 1 LIKE NO OTHER £120 020 7268 0020 GUIDE LONDON £52 020 7481 1111

SKOPES £42 0113 240 2211

BOOMERANG £72 020 7603 4500 GABICCI £65 01442 233700 WITHOUT PREJUDICE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7624 0164

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | REVIEW | 28

the best independents always head to pitti uomo because they know there will always be somethingthere to get them enthused for the new season ahead. tom Bottomley is no different, and here are six

picks that did the job at the music-inspired rock me pitti 85th edition.—

tuninG up Forthe new season

ALTEA

best known for its quality ties and scarves, altea has in recentyears expanded its offer to a full collection of jackets, trousers,shirts and knitwear. it’s italian in its styling and fit – slimmersilhouettes and shorter jacket lengths – but there’s no reasonwhy the look won’t work here. as yet, there are very few Ukcustomers for this great old brand’s clothing line. but it is afourth-generation family business, and it surely won’t be longbefore retailers who appreciate such things will catch on andbuy into it. as you would imagine, with its speciality fantasticscarves, the knitwear stands out, too. and some of the wooljackets, with bang on-trend jacquard weaves featuring heavily,are spot on, as is a double-breasted tweed coat that wouldhave made any 40s newspaper reporter – or 70s footballmanager for that matter – proud. prices are fairly high end, with jackets retailing between £400 and £500.—

TODD SNYDER + CHAMPION

there is plenty of heritage-inspired sportswear around for a/w 14,but perhaps none quite as good as this. anthem retailer simonspiteri knows a thing or two about authenticity, and he’s got onboard to handle the Uk sales for it. some would say it’s whatchampion should have done a long time ago – once not onlythe Us king of track and field wear, supplying all the collegeteams since god knows when (the brand was founded in 1919),but also the king of the streets in the 80s with its reverse-weavesweats and tees. it’s time to get back to those glory years andmake us old fans not quite so reliant on good vintage finds.“aside from a great designer in his own right, and the man whore-invented J.crew, todd snyder is a long-term fan of thechampion brand, and he’s gone through all the archives andold catalogues to come up with up the real deal. champion alsoinvented the hoody,” says spiteri. time to reclaim it, then. —

PRIVATE WHITE V.C

this was among the best collections at pitti. it has a certainclass about it – outerwear you want to put on and not take off.yes it’s pricey, but yes it’s worth it. from a striped reefer with ashawl collar that looks like something out of on the waterfrontwith Marlon brando to a modern take on a four-pocketmotorcycle-style jacket with leather collar and a clever “twin-track” double-zip front, which basically means you canexpand the front to get a big jumper underneath in the winter,or zip off the panel in summer when bigger layers are no longerrequired. it was a first-time showing at pitti for the brand, whichmakes its outerwear at its own factory in salford, Manchester.once it was all about private label, now it’s all about buildingthe brand, and it’s definitely got what it takes in spades. it’s alldesigned by one nick ashley, too (see interview on page 20).—

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | REVIEW | 29

WORKERS MARQUE

anyone remember a brand called hicky from the earlynoughties? good stuff it was; probably among the best of thevintage-inspired collections that started to spring up aroundthat time. the man behind it was one david gilston, or Jackdavid gilston to be more accurate, though he always liked touse his middle name. enough of that, but this is his work onceagain – his first foray back in to creating a brand for a long time,and a debut at pitti. gilston got stitched up with poorproduction management, which put paid to hicky, though healso used to design for brands such as levi’s and edwin. hethen went to the states and designed for the likes of hollister,and has designed “everything from staircases to suitcases,”since. but this small collection of handmade leather and canvasbags is all about his personal design passion once again – andall made in england. —

HANSEN

there’s a new scandinavian brand in town, and it goes by thename of hansen – after the designer, ase helena who, alongwith her co-founder and ceo, per chrois, brought a touch ofdanish style to proceedings at pitti. “the danes are known forgreat furniture design,” says hansen. “but this range reallycaptures the way we like to dress.” dressed down, almostcasual suiting, with the type of waistcoats you can easily wearwith jeans or chinos, gives a taste of what it’s about. and theylike a hat or two. the brand isn’t actually that new – now in itseighth season (third time at pitti, but this was a much strongerlocation than before) – but there aren’t many brits on the caseyet, so it might be a good time for buyers to dip their toes. oh,and 14oz in berlin is a stockist, and karl-heinz Müller (bread &butter’s boss who owns the shop) certainly knows a thing ortwo about brands.—

EAST HARBOUR SURPLUS

what can one say other than this is proper kit. for theuninitiated, it’s a korean brand from Mr han taemin, who alsohappens to have a shop called san francisco Market, selling thelikes of engineered garments and haversack, so you get thedrift. taemin started off as a designer in florence, beforeopening his own store in seoul, and this was east harboursurplus’ third outing at pitti. so far there is just one Uk account,but surely something is set to change. prices are not scaryeither, as they can be with aforementioned brands. everythingis made in italy, and though the looks are vintage-inspired, ithas a more european flavour to it as opposed to american,reinterpreting great looks in modern fabrics and fits. vintagemilitary influences are evident, but there are also some finecasual tailoring – including an interesting four-piece (waistcoatand shirt as well) in an old regimental stripe. outerwear is astrong point, too, and this collection apparently had a strongreaction from buyers across the board. —

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | PITTI UOMO | 30

PeaCoCKS anD Pea CoaTSIn terms of setting the precedence for street-style trends for the season ahead, Pitti Uomo is the place to draw inspiration, admire and watch as the peacocks of thefortezza da Basso do what they do best. MWB was on hand to capture the sartorial choices of the gents of florence. —

“High meets low this season as beanies were teamed with slick tailored suits, with neon, unsurprisingly, makingthe most impact visually”

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | PITTI UOMO | 31

“Double-breasted styles returned to the spotlight in both suit jacketsand heavyweight wool overcoats in a series of tone-on-tone tailoringas well as braver Prince of Wales checks”

SHOWING AT JACKET REQUIRED FEBRUARY 2014.

SHOWROOM APPOINTMENTS: [email protected] T: 020 7486 8916 FRAAS.COM

BOLD STYLES FOR WINTERY MONTHS.

SCARVES ARE OUR WORLD.


SHOWING AT JACKET REQUIRED FEBRUARY 2014.

SHOWROOM APPOINTMENTS: [email protected] T: 020 7486 8916 FRAAS.COM

BOLD STYLES FOR WINTERY MONTHS.

SCARVES ARE OUR WORLD.

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | PROFILE | 33

SPIeWaK reLaUnCHeSfor 110TH

annIverSarYIt’s one of those old american brands that has stood the test of time and supplied outerwear for the military,fire service and police force for decades. now in its 110th anniversary year, and under new Italian ownershipfor the lifestyle offer, it relaunched at Pitti with a limited-edition line under the original golden fleece label,

writes Tom Bottomley.—

Under the name of golden fleece I Spiewak &Sons, a brand was born in new York in 1904. fastforward 110 years, and the “lifestyle” arm of thebusiness is now Italian-owned by a companycalled g&g, while the uniforms business is stillamerican-owned. A Pitti relaunch beckoned, witha standalone stand and limited-edition piecesusing the original Golden Fleece branding.

Kevin Stone, who is handling sales for theGolden Fleece line with Index-London, as well assales for the main line Spiewak collection, says,“We’ve got the classic MA-1 jacket that is now

relaunched. They were so lucky that they found a40-year old deadstock fabric in a warehouse in theUS. It’s a heavyweight cotton that has been Teflon-coated. It’s an archive piece, but they’ve given it amodern sensibility. It’s got “onion bag” quiltinginside.”

The N3-B parka is another classic that’s beenreinvented for the limited-edition Golden Fleeceline, again in the deadstock fabric as well as inauthentic “flight satin” fabric. Details includeleather arrowheads to reinforce the pockets, andthere’s a well-executed cotton drill US Navy deck

jacket, as well as a heavy melton wool pea coatthat looks like the fit has been tweaked for the 21stcentury. It’s all made in the US. Giving the capsulecollection a fashion edge, there’s also a nylonripstop “woodland” camouflage parka and anotherMA-1 in the camo, too.

Of course, while the limited-edition GoldenFleece line is the attention grabber, it’s theSpiewak main line that will be the real sales driver.And there’s some great new additions in thecollection, aside from the aforementioned classicssuch as the N3-B – albeit without the extra special

>>>

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | PROFILE | 34

of a city fit than a war fit, for instance.”travelling is a big inspiration for donadi – not

surprising considering the amount he’s done. sohe looks at performance, practicality andfunctionality as key elements, as well as weightand warmth. “this is what we have looked at forspiewak,” he says. “we’re stating the obvious, ie‘this is what we need today.’” it reflects back tothe origins of the brand, which donadi says wasstarted “to make the life of workmen easier.”protection from weather conditions was a keyfactor of course. “with respect for the past weneed to look at the future,” says donadi.

spiewak’s history is indeed equallingintriguing. it started with a journey from warsawto brooklyn, new york, by one polish immigrantand entrepreneur by the name of isaac spiewak.in 1904 his handcrafted sheepskin vests sold to williamsburg waterfront dock workers. and that became the foundation of a familybusiness. spiewak soon began creating the iconicmilitary uniforms, and produced countless duringworld war i, and even more during world war ii.flight jackets were a speciality, as were pea coats for the navy. spiewak’s golden fleece logo was a dependable sight on outerwear.partnership with the armed forces wasparticularly prevalent during the korean war inthe 50s – a time that brought about the classicssuch as the Ma-1 flying jacket, n3-b snorkel parkaand shorter n2-b style.

donadi has been given the opportunity to“look at the brand as a whole.” not only theapparel, but the packaging and the “experience”of the brand. “it’s something i’m very interestedin,” he says. donadi specifically went out to findthe deadstock fabric for the golden fleecelimited-edition line. “we found it in a warehousein la. there was a few thousand yards of thisbeautiful fabric. it’s limited-edition by default; it’s not really a marketing story.” when he talksabout golden fleece, he talks of it as “more forthe purists.” interestingly he also sees no reasonwhy the higher end line can’t be developed andreach strong sales going forward, too. with moreglobal interest in general in premium product –which obviously comes at a price – he may wellhave a point.

MAURIZIO DONADI

diesel to say they were “coming to america” andopening a small office in new york that theywanted him to run. he took the opportunity andbecame the brand’s head of retail for five years.then armani called, and he spent six and a halfyears there in a creative role to “travel the worldand bring in new retail ideas and designinspiration.” nice work if you get it.

following armani, donadi worked for ralphlauren’s top-end rrl line as senior vice president– overseeing the entire rll brand. “it was aboutproducing the most beautiful clothes fromamerican heritage,” he says. an opportunity cameup to lead the premium division of levi’s – withlevi’s vintage clothing and Made & crafted. thisis all before setting up his own consultancybusiness in los angeles and landing the role ofcreative director for spiewak – something he’scertainly well primed for. “i’m not a designer,” hesays. “i’m probably the last qualified person towork on design. but i can read the numbers, and ithink i have a pretty good idea of what theaesthetic of a brand is.”

on spiewak, he says, “i love the brand. it’sinteresting and part of american history. it’sutilitarian and not fashion. it’s useful andfunctional. you have certain elements such asgolden fleece that reflect the interest in thebrand’s history. then you have the main spiewaksection, which is about the future. what isintriguing in the way we have worked togetherwith the spiewak team. it’s very much been aboutsaying, ‘let’s look at tomorrow with knowledge ofyesterday,’ instead of ‘let’s do another heritagebrand and let’s do another replica.’ that’s justsomething that’s been done already. so wedevoted an element of golden fleece to beingclose to heritage with a modern take on it. More

touches of the limited-edition collection. however,you do get the choice of having the hood trimmedwith real cayote fur (as per the original), fake fur or even no fur at all. as one of the officialmanufacturers for the Us air force, spiewak first developed the n3-b parka circa 1950. “thereare also a lot of technical pieces in the main line,”says stone. “and a great melton wool overshirtwith a nylon pocket and reinforced sleeves that ithink will be a good seller. there are some morecommercial fashion pieces as well, of course, anda full womenswear offer.” around 30 accounts are sought in the Uk for the first season with themain line, whereas the golden fleece line will onlysit in around 10 of the top-tier accounts. thegolden fleece Ma-1 in the deadstock fabric willretail at £389, whereas the main line Ma-1 will bemore like £206 retail – to give an indication ofprice structure.

the man brought in as “creative director atlarge” to put together the golden fleece line isone Maurizio donadi, a man with an interestingpast and who was on hand to give his account ofthings at bread & butter berlin. donadi is anitalian who expanded the benetton retail chain inamerica and the caribbean throughout the 80s,when the brand was red hot, before settling inMiami and opening a vintage shop calledoutlander in 1992. that sealed his interest in greatold pieces. he says, “it was kind of like the time ofthe relaunch of Miami, because before that it wasquite a sleepy town. i had designers and brandpeople from the likes of levi’s, diesel and replaycoming in the shop buying vintage levi’s jeans,leather jackets and so on. we went from being asecond-hand shop to a collector’s store. wespecialised in getting the best.”

it wasn’t long before donadi got the call from

www.gucinari.co.uk

Showing at Moda FootwearStand R11, NEC Birmingham, 16-18 February 2014


FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | PREVIEW | 36

LOU DALTON

Taking inspiration from Dorothea Lange’s bleak,depression-era photographs, British designerLou Dalton described her a/w 14 muse as a “rawyoung farm hand.” The brand’s latest collectionwas an intensely personal affair, informed byDalton’s own working class roots. Fresh-facedmodels took to the runway in modern workwearwith military touches. Mismatched silhouettesfigured heavily, while chord, shearling, denimand Fair Isle knits were key. Comprising green-browns, faded blues and pinks shot withred, the colour palette was suitably understated.A green chord shirt and trouser combination, abelted pea coat and a camouflage-print shirtwere among the collection’s stand-out pieces.

COMMON

Setting the scene with UV lights and a stark-white show space, Common unveiled afuturistic a/w 14 offer at this season’s LondonCollections: Men. Its range was inspired byAndrew Niccol’s 1997 sci-fi film, Gattaca.Featuring signature knitted collars, white shirtswith zip detailing and a combination of metallicand matt fabrics, it married science fiction withHollywood noir. Key pieces included a laser-redtechnical down jacket, flecked wool suits anddetailed overcoats. Comprising reds and greens, the brand’s colour palette wasborrowed, in part, from the work of Germandigital artist Gerhard Mantz.

Lon

Do

nC

oLL

eCT

Ion

S:M

en

one of the key events in themenswear buying calendar,the London showcase broughttogether the best in Britishdesign this season.—

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | PREVIEW | 37

BAARTMANS AND SIEGEL

Baartmans and Siegel showcased its a/w 14collection to the strains of orchestral music,while smoke and eerie blue light served to evokethe challenging arctic landscapes by which thebrand was inspired. As ever, outerwear was key,and the show saw Baartmans and Siegel unveilits exclusive collaboration with Penfield.Developed for “life in the open”, the label’s threerefined performance coats featured sharptailoring, luxurious detailing, rubber hardwareand a soft-shell outer layer. The design duo’spreoccupation with cold climates was reflectedin a colour palette of tonal navy and classic blue.Down feather bomber jackets, streamlinedwindbreakers and enhanced parkas wereinspired by its key themes – “focused pursuit”and “action”.

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

Christopher Raeburn showcased his arctic-inspired a/w 14 collection at The VictoriaHouse, which echoed with the sounds ofcracking ice, howling wind and boots on snow.The rising star’s offer had a political agenda,exploring issues of sustainability, shelter andprotection. As ever, vintage militarywear hadbeen thoughtfully recycled, while lightweightparkas were crafted from German militarysleeping bags, and the heavy sheepskin ofrecycled Siberian officers coats was reminiscentof polar bear fur. Layers of padding, neoprene-like finishes and drawstring detailingreflected Raeburn’s preoccupation withendangered arctic landscapes. The bleak colourpalette comprised greys, olive greens and stormblues, while heavy duty boots finished each look.

OLIVER SPENCER

Oliver Spencer’s a/w 14 range was unveiled atthe Sorting Office, a cavernous, atmosphericallylit space wholly in keeping with his luxury urbanaesthetic. Blur bassist Alex James took to thecatwalk, while Specials drummer John Bradburyplayed a live set to accompany the show. Thecross-generational collection was inspired byurban renewal and the mechanical, modulardesigns of leading Purist Le Corbusier.Reworked fabrications were one of many nodsto his ground-breaking creations. Ultimately,traditional tailoring met the clean architecturallines of the Unite d’Habitation, creating amodern fit for a/w 14.

showyourejockey.com

Visit us at Moda, Stand MC16

showyourejockey.com

Visit us at Moda, Stand MC16

MoDaaUTUMn/WInTer 2014

16-18 february, neC Birmingham—

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | MODA | 39

gIBSon LonDon STanD Mf39

42 Moda LifestyleCasual and contemporary mainstream menswear

44 Moda TailoringA tailored approach to city dressing

46 Moda Shirts & TrousersDressing from top to bottom with the best in shirting and trousers

50 Moda accessoriesEssential point-of-sale extras and add-ons

52 Moda Urban LifeThe best in urban, sports, surf and denim

56 Moda footwearContinuing its reign as the largest footwear show in the UK

59 SelectContemporary and directional apparel and footwear

62 Moda InformationThe who, what and when from this month’s show

QualityLuxuryHeritageMade in Scotland

See us at Moda - Stand MD31T: 01450 363100

E: [email protected]/trade


MoDaLIfeSTYLe

for the more casual shopper, Moda gent offers a host of brands across forward and short order stock, including denim, knitwear and

outerwear categories.—

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | MODA GENT | 42

ragIng BULL With rugby legend and founder of Raging Bull Phil Vickery on hand to talk through the brand’s latest collection, buyers andrugby fans alike will be keen to see what a/w 14 has in store. Spilt into two themes, the collection includes Away Day Champion, whichcomprises button-down collar shirts layered with Fair Isle sweaters and coloured chinos, and Gentleman and Player, a style based on garmentssuch as the herringbone jacket and quarter zip knitwear. fYnCH HaTTon The new season sees the expansion of a comprehensive trousercollection for Fynch Hatton, designed to complement the label’s shirting and knitwear offer. The cornerstone remains with good quality inthe areas of knitwear and shirts. Besides the knitwear classics, structures and fancy plains promise to enhance the range and stimulateinterest. Brax Great Britain is the inspiration behind a/w 14 at Brax, with autumnal hunting scenes influencing the use of waxed outdoor,tweed, flannel and twin-sided fabrics. Outerwear continues to strengthen, with highlights including the knitted jackets with quilted frontsand sleeves. Denim is one of the most central themes in this collection. The look is renewed above all by technical innovations includinglaser finish, laser prints, colour coatings and vintage. CreW CLoTHIng Making its Moda Gent debut, Crew Clothing is crafted to createa rugged and authentic, coast-meets-country look. A fresh colour palette features birch green, washed red, fig and ochre, while nautical-inspired designs include fisherman’s ribbed crew-neck jumpers, tweed blazers and a heritage polo, which features spray and sail appliques.

—

ragIng BULL STanD Mf31 Brax STanD Me20 CreW CLoTHIng STanD Mg29

CaMeL aCTIve STanD Me10fYnCH HaTTon STanD Mf20


CaMeL aCTIve The new season is all about minimalism for German lifestyle label Camel Active. Treatments such as garment dying orgarment washing create more subtle, worn-look effects. Key styles on the other hand, such as deliberately shorter jackets and longer parkasin robust cotton fabrics, feature pocket facings and applications. The use of material blends or leather trimmings underscores the brand’score. faraH 1920 Drawing inspiration from folkloric craftsmanship of Balkan and South-American origin, Farah 1920 sees an emphasistowards smarter, warmer and more traditional fabrics including herringbone twill and wool Melton, which sit alongside a range of distinctIkat weaves and tribal jacquards. DUKe Young fashion label Duke returns to Moda Gent with its broad offer of basic jeans, tops, belts,beanies and accessories. The brand’s sub-label, D555, is on hand to fly the flag for home-grown British design, with everything conceivedand developed at the label’s HQ in Nottingham. Classics such as parkas and baseball jackets are key, while newness comes from the likesof drop-crotch joggers and innovative dying techniques. gLenBrae After successfully launching its range of lambswool and merinogarments for s/s 14, Glenbrae is looking to drive its presence in the UK independent retail market further for the new season. New additionssee a range of designs in finer merino, ideal for layering and wearing with tailored jackets, while the label’s core collection of knitwearcontinues to be offered in a rainbow palette including purples, blues, greens, reds and creams.

—

faraH 1920 STanD Mf41 gLenBrae STanD MC37

CaMeL aCTIve STanD Me10

DUKe STanD Me31

MoDaTaILorIng

Moda gent offers a raft of tailoring specialists this autumn/winter 2014, with a number of returning favourites

alongside new names to discover. —


DIgeL The trend for suits in Digel’s latest showcase remains figure-hugging silhouettes with modern, shortened jacket lengths and narrowtrousers. Detail is key with contrasting decorative stitching, lapel pins and luxe linings. In terms of prints, the geometric micro and minipatterns are highlights, and can be seen on inside collars and pocket linings. DIeLMar Making its Moda Gent debut this season, premiumlabel Dielmar returns to the golden age of the 60s with its autumn/winter 2014 offering. Inspired by the movie The Thomas Crown Affair,the collection mixes modern, innovative fabrics with the styling of the star of the movie, Steve McQueen. SKoPeS Tailoring specialistSkopes returns to the halls of Moda Gent, presenting a comprehensive collection of suits, overcoats, sports jackets and classic blazers. Akey style in the collection is the navy Egan suit in navy, comprising a slim-tailored fit, slanted flap pockets, centre vent, contrast lining andslanted flap pockets. gIBSon LonDon As part of the show’s latest initiative, Sunday Best – a concept designed to find and award thebest-dressed man at Moda Gent – British label Gibson London is offering the winner a bespoke tailormade suit. In terms of autumn/winter2014, the brand is set to offer up and collection of petrol, blue and grey designs, with splashes of mustard, rust and lilac coming through inthe finer details.

—

DIgeL STanD MC30 SKoPeS STanD MC41

gIBSon LonDon STanD Mf39DIeLMar STanD MC61


reMUS UoMo Remus Uomo continues to offer sharp styling, fine detailing and exceptional quality this season. With a plethora of newfabrics, textures and colours, the brand offers a collection of both everyday causal and smarter-affair alternatives. BerTonI Another namemaking its debut at the show is Bertoni, which comes under the helm of London agency Double H. The Danish label puts its focus on woolfor the new season, drawing inspiration from the richness of the Scottish Highlands to the grays of Northern Europe’s coastlines. Expectkey, tailored lines in premium wool blends such as simple car coats with contrasting collars or in modern salt-and-pepper melange check.BenvenUTo Classic designs have been reinterpreted for autumn/winter 2014, and buyers can expect a host of new features from theGerman label at the forthcoming Moda Gent, including patch pockets, peaked lapels and contrast buttons. The collection also offers versatileblazers, coats and trousers in a range of materials. Its shirts are finished with woven ribbons, contrast seams and elegant buttons. MageeRecognising the growing need for casual wardrobe additions, Magee has taken its range of wool and poly-wool suits in urban colourationsand interesting weaves and moved it out of the office and onto the more casual-dressed man. The brand’s range of Donegal tweeds, retrowool checks and robust country check suits, for example, bridge the gap between sartorial and relaxed dressing.

—

reMUS UoMo STanD Mf38 Magee STanD MC21BenvenUTo STanD Mg21

BerTonI STanD Mg23

MoDaSHIrTS & TroUSerS

from top to bottom, this season welcomes the very bestin the shirting and trouser sector to showcase what’s on offer this

autumn/winter 2014.—


oLYMP Colour is a definite focus across German label Olymp’s casual and business shirting categories, with a palette comprising cognacreds, emerald tones, petrol blue, mustard and violet shades. Decorative detailing, however, is more discrete than in previous seasons, withsubtle prints on collars and inside cuffs. BrUHL Aside from its signature range of comfort and classic trouser styles, Moda favourite Bruhlupdates its corduroy segment in a range of trend-conscious colours with washed-out effects. Fabric qualities in this series include finelypatterned herringbone and robust Donegal. MeYer Autumn/winter 2014 sees German label Meyer retain its slim silhouettes of last season,with highlights including the detailed jean and the modern pocket chinos – the Chicago style with diagonal front pocket and quilted backpocket is a hero piece. HaTTrIC Trouser specialist Hattric draws its inspiration from Dublin, with a colour palette inspired by the naturalness,rusticness and traditional influences of the Irish city. With an obvious turn to shades of green, including moss and cedar, subtle colours canalso be found in cognac and rust.

—

BrUHL STanD Mf18 HaTTrIC STanD MD21 SeIDenSTICKer STanD MC49

MeYer STanD Me18

oLYMP STanD MD18


SeIDenSTICKer One of the leading names in shirts, Seidensticker returns to Moda Gent this season with a collection comprising threesegments: Splendesto offers a wide range of colours and prints, button-down double collars, smaller Kent collars without front pockets andAMF stitching; Schwarze Rose sees the use of floral, baroque and camouflage prints; and Uno City is a smarter alternative in cadet stripesand small repeat checks. DoUBLe TWo The new season heralds the introduction of a new improved shirt fit for British label Double Two,while its premium sub-line, Paradigm, continues to present its non-iron micro-twill fabrics, which are soft to the touch, breathable anddurable. Sister brand to Double Two, Bar Harbour, meanwhile, will see the launch of its updated branding with a vintage typewriter print.eTerna Shirt specialist Eterna presents its new collection, which is structured to coincide with three delivery dates across July, Augustand September. Each drop will feature Comfort Fit, Modern Fit and Slim Fit styles, while more premium quality fabrics, decorative fabricsand shorter collar lengths characterise the look and feel of the entire collection. CaSaMoDa Casamoda turns its attention to improvingthe quality of its product this season and, alongside its signature intricate detailing and finishes, the brand welcomes fabrics such as denim,melange and thermal flannels, as well as printed cords and sporty minimal prints.

—

CaSaMoDa STanD MD21

eTerna STanD Me11DoUBLe TWo STanD MC19

See us at Moda

Stand MC49

Brian Winterbourne

UK and Ireland Sales

Tel/Fax: 01572 723931

Mobile: 07889 305 479

www.seidensticker.com


MoDaaCCeSSorIeS

finishing touches such as bags, ties, wallets and leather goodsare perfect for point-of-sale purchases. Moda offers up some of the best

in the sector. —


KnIgHTSBrIDge Split between contemporary zone Select and the more mainstream Moda Gent, British accessory label Knightsbridgereturns to the show with a strong collection of ties, scarves, bow ties and pocket squares. A key style for the new season is the City Slickersilk scarf, which features a rich autumnal colour palette and on-trend paisley print. gIBSon LonDon Tailoring label Gibson Londonpresents its debut accessory collection for men, including bonded Tweed style holdalls designed for long weekends, with matching tabletholder and leather trim. Both feature gold tone hardware and are branded with a Gibson London leather plaque – all made in England,might we add, by Chapman Bags. TrIBe Established in 2013, Tribe is a quirky addition to Moda Gent’s accessory offer. Offering eco-friendlyeyewear, watches and wallets, each product is handmade using the highest quality sustainably sourced wood, with each design featuringunique natural colours and markings. BLaDen Menswear label Bladen returns to the show with its mainline collection of tailored jackets,moleskin trousers and cloth backed waistcoats. Newness, however, comes with the introduction of a new range of ties and luggage toenhance the total collection, featuring quirky fox and bird embroidered motifs. joCKeY Leading men’s underwear label Jockey launchesyet another versatile a/w collection, comprising its signature underwear and loungewear in its iconic masculine style. Themes in the newrange include Colorado Highlands, Aspen Lodge and Ski Village, using a classic colour palette of navy, frost white and red, as well asinjections of light blue and plum.

—

KnIgHTSBrIDge STanDS Se18 & Me28

TrIBe STanD MD68 BLaDen STanD MC10 joCKeY STanD MC16

gIBSon LonDon STanD Mf39

ModaUrban liFE

a new addition to the Moda exhibition, Urban life brings together thebest in surf, sports, denim and urban menswear.

—

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT |MODA URBAN LIFE | 52

lindbErgh Another Scandinavian label to hit Moda, Lindbergh’s a/w 14 collection is potentially its strongest to date. With the expansionof the label’s denim line, Blue, the brand is looking to further cement its presence in the UK market for the new season. Other lines includeBlack, a preppy and classically formal collection, and White, which is a clean, core range of staples across shirts, suits, jackets and knits.blEnd Danish label Blend presents its latest development for a/w 14 – Casual Friday – which is a slightly more grown-up line for the Blendman, offering six collections annually in an array of mix and match separates. Designed to take the wearer from work to the bar, the rangecentres around the art of layering and accessorising for a versatile wardrobe. id dEniM A new name to the halls of Moda, ID Denim is aScandinavian lifestyle label spanning denim, causal and streetwear. Key pieces include heavyweight quilted jackets and gilets, graphic teesand on-trend Ikat prints. A sub-line of ID Denim is its Vintage category, catering for the slightly older consumer, with a variety of denimwashes, fits and cuts. björn borg A key component for this season’s collection from Swedish label Björn Borg is the use of reflectivematerial, found across sports apparel, bags and footwear. Other key elements are interpretations of traditional fashion statements such ascamouflage, quilting and leopard print, all executed in Björn Borg’s signature full-impact way. Important colours for this season are shadesof grey, black, tonal blues, burgundy, army green, pink and orange.

—

blEnd stand MF69

M.o.d. stand ME68id dEniM stand ME47

lindbErgh stand ME48

björn borg stand ME60

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT |MODA URBAN LIFE | 53

M.o.d Following its successful sell-through of its outerwear category last season, M.O.D has expanded its jacket and coat offer for a/w 14.Coated denims are key, while newness comes in the form of panels, where different panels are stitched together from different denims.After washing, it gives different effects on each panel. garcia Denim specialist Garcia continues its expansion into a complete lifestylecollection for a/w 14. The Italian label, currently distributed by Double H Agency, blends the signature European use of colour with morepared-down styling suitable for the UK market. The new line is a comprehensive offer, comprising jeans, hoodies, sweats, shirts, T-shirts andaccessories. shinE original Designed for the 15-40 year old market, Shine Original caters for both father and son. Specialising in jeans,the a/w 14 collection draws inspiration from rock ’n’ roll and surf culture and, while the core of the collection focuses on denim, there arewardrobe additions in outerwear, sweatshirts and non-denim pants, with silhouettes remaining slim-fitted throughout.

—

shinE original stand ME48garcia stand ME66

Garments that won’t hang about.The steamer that will.

For more informationTel: 020 8417 0660 www.propress.co.uk

ModaFootWEar

as the Uk’s largest footwear exhibition, Moda Footwear continues to welcome a raft ofestablished and emerging talent, spanning contemporary, comfort and casual labels. new namesto the mix include iconic british label dr Martens, whilst brands such as sorel, base london and

Fish n chips are returning favourites. —

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT |MODA FOOTWEAR | 56

lUis

go

nza

lo

sta

nd

p34

sorE

l

sta

nd

Q21

Front stand t5

ikon stand X5

basE stand W4

lotUs stand p25

Fish n chips stand W4

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT |MODA FOOTWEAR | 57

bogs stand o21

dr MartEns stand y5

aig

lE

sta

nd

V4

MU

sta

ng

st

an

d V

11

pod

st

an

d X

9

caMpobEllo stand s29

Xti stand V19

hEy dUdE stand W5

sElEctcontemporary and urban zone select welcomes a whole host of names to

its latest edition, including some of the best names in british design, as wella plethora of international brands.

—

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT | SELECT | 59

WEEKEND OFFENDER

Casual culture and influential sub-cultures are the inspirationbehind Weekend Offender’s a/w 14 offering. The twocollections, Category A and Mainline, both feature parkasand crisp shirting, with textured knitwear also key. Technicalfleece garments featuring contrast nylon pockets areprominent, as is a taped seam kagoule and the classic snorkelparka. Fabrics include paisley cotton shirting and a wovenrepeat W fabric for shirting and trims. Refreshed brandingoffers the new colours of navy and cream for labelling.Stand SE36—

PETER WERTH

Established in 1975, eponymous London labelPeter Werth is known for its long-sleeved,knitted polo shirts, and this season is nodifferent. Inspired by four decades of knitwearmanufacturing – in Leicester and Nottingham –the a/w 14 collection features lambswool tipped,long-sleeved, knitted polo shirts in burgundy,canary yellow, navy and grey.Stand SE26—

GUIDE LONDON

Guide London ushers in a/w 14 with amore relaxed collection, inspired byTeddy Boy and Mod styling. Notch lapeljackets, double-breasted military coats,high-collared polo shirts and dogtoothjacquard cardigans are among its keypieces. The brand’s focus has shiftedfrom intricate details to fabric quality andstructure; its sub-range features playfulprints in bright colours, while its popularsocks are available in new patterns andhues. It even plans to introduce a line ofleather belts and wallets.Stand SE22 / SE20—

JOULES

Following its successful footwear debut at Moda lastseason, British label Joules has moved into contemporaryzone Select for a/w 14. There are new additions to itswellington category, and accessories are also key,comprising scarves, leather wallets and tablet cases,while the new season welcomes the collaboration withanother British favourite, Harris Tweed.Stand SE21—

>>>


ANERKJENDT

Young brand Anerkjendt continues toexperiment with fashion and trendsthis season. Edgy, humorous and easyto wear, its a/w 14 collection has beendesigned with the theme “rock’n’rollmeets baseball meets space andjungle” in mind. Buyers can expect amixture of denims, nylons, naturalfabrics and playful prints. Classicshapes are key, while street elementsand sporty details lend each design afashion-forward edge.Stand SE38—

PARADIGMA

For a/w 14, footwear label Paradigmahas developed a collection focusedprimarily on must-have wardrobestaples, with newness coming fromthe introduction of tracks andtextures not seen from the brandbefore. With a wide range ofcontemporary designs, the collectionis designed for an “active andmodern man”, with Chelsea boots,brogues and tassel loafers beinghighlights of the new season.Stand SE05—

PANTHERELLA

For a/w 14, sock brand Pantherella’s Business Classicscollection for the well-heeled gent focuses on yarns andtextures and includes a Vintage range, which sees thecompany return to its archives for traditional styling andcolours that epitomise British Heritage. The BusinessModerns range, meanwhile, takes inspiration frommodern graphics including polka dots, stripes, checks,hounds tooth and geometric prints in merino wool yarns.Stand SE33—

GABICCI VINTAGE

Gabicci Vintage continues to takeinspiration from its archivecollections. Buyers can expecttapestry, Ikat-inspired jacquardsand prints juxtaposed with sleeksilhouettes of the 50s. Clean,crisp wool-blend jackets and fineknits contrast with soft lambswool,while neatly collared polos andcardigans work with parkas andbomber jackets. Smarter looks areshown in three-piece suits andcity woven shirts – the iconic goldG badge appearing throughout.Stand SE26—

BOOMERANG

Swedish label Boomerang returns to Select for a/w 14following a successful twelve months in the UK market.The new collection sees a continuation of the brand’soutdoors-inspired design ethos, where functionality andversatility are teamed with on-trend elements. Inspirationis taken from an urban sports look, with hi-tops, metallicpadded outerwear and polo-necks featuring throughout. Stand SE06—


MARSHALL ARTIST

An exciting new name to the Select line-up,Marshall Artist presents its a/w 14 collection,described as “an exploration into modern Britishtailoring”. The new season sees the brand offer animpressive array of technically advancedfabrications including compact cotton/polyamide,which when overdyed at a specific temperatureshrinks to create a worn-in vintage look.Stand SE38—

BARBOUR

This season, iconic brand Barbour unveils an expanded range offootwear, inspired by its own country heritage. Focusing on comfort,practicality and tradition, its Classic line features smart Derbybrogues and a new, tartan trim Monty slipper. The Lifestyle collectionis more casual, comprising relaxed brogues, leather chukka boots anddesert boots in leather and wax combinations. Highlights from itsHeritage range include the chocolate brown Hector chukka boot, andthe Falstaff 2 brogue, complete with off-white cup soles. Stand SE03—

BRITISH BELT COMPANY

Handcrafted in England, leathergoods label British Belt Companyis part of Arnold Wills & Co Ltd – afamily owned manufacturerlocated in Rutland, England’ssmallest county no less. Carryingthrough a core collection ofleather staples each season, thebrand will present a range of belts,wallets, washbags and holdallsamong other products, someincluding waxed canvas fabric fromrenowned wax manufacturerHalley Stevensons. Stand SE29—

PEREGRINE

Made in England, Peregrine’s a/w collection isinfluenced by folklore this season. Highlightsinclude the introduction of new British canvas andtweed fabrics and contrasting and tactile textures.Collection colours remain rich and complementaryfor a/w 14, with key shades including warm khaki,gun metal and ochre. English-made knitwear,including Fair Isle and chevron knits, offer uniqueand bold attention to detail, with key knitwearpieces including a patchwork Aran jumper. Stand SE39—

FEBRUARY 2014 | GENT |MODA | 62

MorE catWalks. MorE contEnt. MorE inspiration.Make sure you’ve registered for the event of the season as Moda prepares for evenmore live debates, fresh new brands, seminars to inspire and catwalks providing thebest overview of this season’s hottest trends.

don’t Miss thE big liVE dEbatEs

Mon 17 Feb Hall 20 12:00 – Big Live Menswear DebateHall 20 15:00 – Big Live Footwear Debate

Moda’s Big Live Debate returns this season bigger and betterwith the introduction of a brand new Footwear Debate. Moda’svery own portfolio director, Nick Cook, will lead the panel ofexperts, so join in with the discussions that could affect yourbusiness, or just take a seat and listen to your peers offering aninsight to current hot topics from within your sector.

The womenswear and lingerie sectors will also host debates in Hall 17 on the same day at 10.45 and 13.00 respectively.—

grow your business withhelp, funding andinvestment: Warren Knight,CEO, GloopleTuesday 18 February13:00 Hall 17Only 50 per cent of newbusinesses survive year one, somake sure you’re one of them.Warren will take you through astep-by-step process from start-up to growth and gettinginvestment, including all thepitfalls and challenges from anyretail business.

getting your businessmobile: Martin O’Toole,Managing director, Fist of FurySunday 16 February 14:00 Hall 17 Lingerie & SwimwearRetail Theatre16:45 Hall 17Returning to Moda for hissecond year, Martin will discusschanges in consumer behaviour– and the importance of mobilemarketing as a result – in today’smarketplace.

getting sales with socialmedia and onlinemarketing:Warren Knight, CEO, GloopleTuesday 18 February10:00 Hall 17 Lingerie & SwimwearRetail TheatreWarren will talk you through thefour core areas behind anyonline success as well as theimportance of creating greatcontent and building onlinerelationships to get sales.

10 steps to visual retail success:Eve Reid,director & founder, Metamorphosis GroupMonday 17 February11:45 Hall 17 (Retail Theatre)15:00 Hall 17In the current climate, making agood first impression has neverbeen so important on the highstreet. Eve will help you discoverthe secret to maximising yoursales through the art of visualmerchandising in this dynamicand inspirational seminar.

schedule of eventsHALL 17sunday 16 February10.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk11.15 Fashion catwalk12.45 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk13.30 Fashion catwalk15.00 Evening & occasionwear catwalk16.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk18.00 Fashion catwalk & drinks

Monday 17 February10.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk11.00 Fashion catwalk13.00 Evening & occasionwear catwalk14.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk16.00 Fashion catwalk17.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk

tuesday 18 February10.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk12.00 Fashion catwalk13.45 Evening & occasionwear catwalk14.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk

HALL20sunday 16 February10.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk11.15 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk12.45 Footwear & accessories catwalk13.30 Urban & contemporary catwalk15.00 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk16.00 Footwear & accessories catwalk18.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk & drinks

Monday 17 February10.00 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk11.00 Footwear & accessories catwalk13.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk14.00 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk16.00 Footwear & accessories catwalk17.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk

tuesday 18 February10.00 Urban & contemporary catwalk12.00 Tailoring & lifestyle catwalk13.45 Footwear & accessories catwalk

The Fashion Association ofBritain (FAB) will once againhost its Fab Lounge in ModaWoman. FAB will also lead aseminar on the latest tool togalvanise the high street andmarry e-commerce with localretailers and produce, so makesure you’re in Hall 17 at 14:15 tofind out more about MyHigh.st—

Moda onthE MoVE

Don’t forget to download theModa Events app and stayahead of thegame of what to do and see at Moda.—

tWo catWalk thEatrEs

Moda has two catwalk theatres, offering dailyinspiration for every sector, and this seasonwe’re bringing you closer to the action! —

party at thE pUnchboWl

Join us on Monday 17 February at thePunchbowl in nearby Lapworth – a perfectopportunity for brands and buyers to mix in arelaxed setting.

To reserve your tickets call 01484 846069 or email [email protected].—

Marketing made simple!Simon Shepherd, Client Marketing LtdMonday 17 February12:15 Hall 17Simon will discuss the marketing of yourbusiness in simple terms. He will give you aninsight into how to write and deliver amarketing plan while addressing anyfundamental questions you may wish to putto him, so get your thinking caps on!

getting the best from e-commerceand the web:David Abbott, director, Insight Best Practice (BP)Tuesday 18 February11:00 Hall 1713:00 Hall 17 Lingerie & Swimwear Retail TheatreAre you losing out to online competition?Online sales are growing faster than high-street sales, and nearly all customers who shoplocally do some online research first. Davidwill explore factors such as price relativity,price anchors and the power of zero to giveyou ideas to apply in your own businesses.

the importance of blogging: Jonny Ross, Jonny Ross ConsultancySunday 16 February 12:00 Hall 1714:15 Hall 2017:00 Hall 17 Lingerie & Swimwear Retail TheatreBlogging is key to any good digital strategyand how it links in with an organisation’swider PR and communications plan. Jonnywill give hints and tips on how to improveyour Google rankings, as well as usingFacebook and Twitter to build relationshipsand win new business.

FrEE bUsinEss adVicE

With more than 25 debates and seminars taking place across the duration of show, Moda offers you the perfectopportunity to hear expert advice on the latest innovations in retail and get the inside story of some of the biggestsuccesses in independent fashion. See the Moda website or app for a full schedule.

STEVENLAND.COM

FIND US ON

For more details or to make an appointment please contact

Stuart Pearce on 07867 503360

Moda U.K. - NEC Birmingham stand # MB28

SPRING 2014

FEBRUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | CONTENTS | 65

Featuring model of the moment and tattoo enthusiast Ricky Hall, contemporary fashion label Duck and Coverpresents the campaign for its latest denim development – DAC DNM – for autumn/winter 2014.

A brand new chapter to its 16-year history in menswear, the launch of the new denim sub-line sees thelabel take a more directional turn in terms of its washes, silhouettes and detailing. The collection features aseries of cuts and styles such as the Rannu – a slim-skinny fit jean with regular rise, slim thigh and narrow hem;the Boxsir – a straight-fit jean with a regular rise and hem, with a silhouette remaining fairly parallel from theknee to hem; and the Tinnu, a slim-fit style with regular waist, slim thigh and slim hem, with the top half fittingclose to the waist and hips and the jeans narrowing subtly towards the hem.

The denim collective is supported by a complete clothing range. Distinguished from the main line by awealth of denim-inspired detailing, the collection includes garment-dyed tees, sweatshirts, wadded bomberjackets and down-filled blousons.

—

D E N I M & S T R E E T

rEWritinghistory

66 product newsRounding up the key stories this month

68 in-seasonHome run

70 From hide to fashion rideProfiling Derby independent Canopy

72 bread & butterWhat the Berlin show had to offer

74 berlin voicesInterviews direct from German trade shows Seek and Premium

FEBRUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 66

radarspotlighting style.

prodUct nEWsinside menswear.

ESTABLISHED: 2010—HISTORY: Founded by Par Lundqvist, Rich Bell and Steve Little, Neuwwas created from the trio’s innate love of vintage denims. —SIGNATURE STYLE:Each jean style includes a fob ring, vintage revisiondart and repair stitch for a reinforced pocket.

Neuw was a label that came to the attention of MWB at Gallery inCopenhagen in 2011. The label has since grown into a must-see denimname with five standalone stores in Australia and New Zealand.

Created by three experts in the denim field, Swede Par Lundqvistand Australian friends Rich Bell and Steve Little took their knowledgeand experience of having worked across the industry for a number ofyears and established their own denim offer.

“We collect jeans, the best fits, fabrics and finishes from the last100 years,” says Lundqvist. “By referencing the traditions of patternmaking and tailoring, we re-cut the jeans and re-develop the fabric.Respect the heritage; embrace the future. We call it vintage revision.”

Stocked in some of the world’s key retail stores, includingSelfridges, Harvey Nichols and Berlin’s 14oz store, Neuw is now lookingto enter doors in select menswear independents across the UK.Targeting the 20-35 year-old market, the brand is designed for the manwho “moves with the trends, and has an interest in cuts and shapes whilealso understanding the importance of quality and fabrics.”

New additions for a/w 14 include a mid-season collection calledBlack Rope, which will focus on music influences and punk styles in asimple palette of black. Potential stockists can expect to pay £50wholesale for Neuw designs and, with the brand having a presence inmarkets including Belgium, Australia, the US, Hong Kong, South Africa,Canada, Norway and Germany, you’d certainly be in good company.www.neuw.se

NEUW

LOOK BUSYBOI

Contemporary Britishstreetwear label Busyboi wasspotted at this month’sJacket Required, showcasinga high-summer collection ofT-shirts and vests.

Created to offer itswearer a “strong sense ofindividuality”, the brand isinspired by the high-octanelifestyle of London, LA, NewYork, Tokyo and Berlin,drawing influence from amixture of fashion, music andmedia in these global hotspots. The a/w 14 collectionwill see Busyboi welcome the addition of sweat pantsand a classic varsity jacketstyle to its comprehensiverange of tops.

—

SQUARED UP

Marrying the streetwear styleof Australia with the coolelements of inner-city Londondressing, Two Square pridesitself on being the “antithesisof uncool”. Offering a new,updated collection every fourmonths, the brand is thebrainchild of Jeremy Remeeusand Steve Atkinson, whocollectively have worked atthe likes of Diesel, Gas,Firetrap and Gio-Goi.

The summer dropincludes a strong sportswearinfluence and, whilesilhouettes are generous, theyare also sleek and sharp in apalette of black, navy, heathergrey and off-white.

—

TWENTY FIVEYEARS YOUNG

This year marks achapter in history forBritish streetwear labelBoxfresh as itcelebrates its 25thanniversary.

To mark theoccasion, the brand ishosting 25 events,ranging from parties toart exhibitions, as wellas releasing its second“25” collection.Featuring slick graphics,exaggerated silhouettesand a subtle colourpalette, the rangesignifies a new direction and approach for the label. Landing instores in September, the capsule collection comprises 14 piecesof apparel and four footwear styles.

The range will feature the Quarter graphic on T-shirts andsweats and has a label inside each product. A varsity, sports-influenced theme with a sophisticated twist runsthroughout the collection, with oversized silhouettes andbaseball collars key.

—


ON TREND

scottish label abandon ship apparel was created in 2011 as a way to fill“the huge hole in the market for iconic graphic designs”, and the brandhasn’t looked back since. in three short years, the streetwear label hasgrown from a fledging t-shirt brand into a seasonal collection, comprisingdenims, sweats, hoodies and pullovers.

Drawing inspiration from everyday objects such as food, art and music,the design duo admits that many ideas simply come after a beer or two.Designed for young style-conscious men, it’s no surprise the Abandon ShipApparel was snapped up by the likes of Ark, Topman, Asos and Footasylumin its first two years since inception.

With plans to expand into the US market, alongside a number ofcollaborations with artists and designers, the next 12 months are set to be a thriving time for the brand. www.abandonshipapparel.com

brand to Watch

ABANDON SHIP APPAREL

ESTABLISHED:2011—HISTORY:An idea between friendsRichard Davies and DuncanSweeny over drinks one eveningturned into reality months laterand Abandon Ship Apparel was born. —SIGNATURE STYLE:Bold graphic prints and custom-fit garments. —

1 2

3 4

5

1: MONOKEL £[email protected]

2: POLICEprice on request01923 249491

3: TRIWA£48 0046 8410249

4: QUAY£10 03932 88233

5: QUIKSILVERprice on request 020 7392 4020

seasonal extras: sunglasses

Unless stated otherwiseall prices are wholesale


Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

Drawing inspiration from east-coast american street culture,baseball jerseys now dominate the fast-fashion trends among theyouth menswear market. traditional logo placements are fused withintricate prints, while slimmer silhouettes offer an alternative tooversized cuts. —

home run

MAKERS LDN £[email protected]

ROCAWEAR £2207966 934251

ANOTHERINFLUENCE PRICEON REQUEST 0161 835 2064

OTHER £[email protected]

HYPE £[email protected]

MAJESTIC £14020 7428 1800

BOXFRESH £16020 8371 7554

DUCK DA SYSTEM £27.5007510 222222

FEBRUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PROFILE | 70

FroM hidEto Fashion ridE

derby independent canopy took a different fashion route four years ago with its men’s and women’sshops, after 17 years’ specialising in leather goods and luggage. it’s a move owner james hurdis and his

wife, louisa, are happy they took as they’re finding an increasing customer base in need of a goodindependent with fashion-led product, as tom bottomley discovers.

—

FEBRUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PROFILE | 71

the leather goods connection stems fromcanopy owner james hurdis’ father, johnhurdis, once having a small factory inderbyshire making product before cheaperimports took their toll. the first canopy shopopened in 1993 on sadler gate situated inderby’s cathedral Quarter, originally sellingtraditional luggage, leather goods and footwear.

But four years ago, Hurdis and his wife,Louisa, decided to take the leap and make fashionthe focus in the men’s and women’s stores (bothon Sadler Gate) in Derby, still backed up with astrong accessories and footwear offer.

“When Limeys stopped trading on the samestreet as us a few years ago, we felt it left a voidthat we could in some part fill,” says Hurdis. “Theproblem with only selling accessories was thatsales to a particular customer are less frequent.When you add fashion into the mix, it gives thesame customer a reason to come back on a muchmore frequent basis. I am so pleased we did whatwe did. It hasn’t been easy, but dealing withsomething you love every day makes the hardwork seem more bearable.”

For the men’s store, Hurdis was heavilyinfluenced with its direction by buying trips toMilan. He’d developed a particular fondness for ashop called Eral 55, which he’d make a beeline foron every trip. “I loved the way the store neverseemed to change too dramatically, but alwaysmade me feel like a kid in a sweet shop,” he says.“Obviously I realised that Derby was never goingbe to like Milan, but it was more about the feel of the place. You get guys of all ages in therechatting away to the staff, and it felt like a club of sorts.”

Louisa used to be a store manager andwomenswear buyer for Limeys, once a Derbyfashion institution. And it was apparently herexperience there that was a deciding factor intheir change of direction. He buys the menswear,and she buys the womenswear. “It works fine,”says Hurdis. “We don’t get too involved in whateach other is buying, other than the odd ‘what doyou think of this or that?’ There is healthycompetition there, though. For years, the businesswas definitely aimed more at the female market,so the womenswear store had a head start whenwe changed things around. However, the men’sshop is starting to catch up.”

Bestselling brands at the moment are Edwin,Hartford, Norse Projects, Universal Works andBarbour. “They’re probably the ones with thebroadest appeal,” says Hurdis. But he thinks it’simportant that the bestselling labels don’t start todictate the flavour and direction of the store.“With this in mind, we would look to try and pushthe average ticket price up, always bearing in mindthat we’re in Derby, not London.”

So what’s Derby like in general these days foran independent retailer? “Sadler Gate was once ahigh-footfall area, but this has changedsignificantly over the last 10 years,” says Hurdis.“However, a store like ours is very much adestination, so we’re not over-reliant on passingtrade. I do think, though, that even in Derby thereseems to be a growing desire to shop withindependents, so we will start to see the emptyunits being filled and more people in the streets.When Westfield opened in the city around sixyears ago, and the recession started to bite, westarted to find units being vacated around us. Butthat has helped to drive rents down, making it amore viable proposition for independents.”

Average wages in Derby are pretty good,thanks in no small part to Rolls Royce AeroEngines (the city’s largest employer). Hurdis notesthat as a company they seem to go from strengthto strength, which is great for the local economy.

“Derby is pretty good for independent shopsand I think it is improving,” he says. “We are alsostarting to see new independent restaurantsopening and old pubs having new life breathedinto them. Derby is a small city but has some greatvillages and towns within a 20-minute drive of thecentre. We’re also getting a growing number ofcustomers from neighbouring Nottingham, whereindependent retail isn’t so good.”

He realises the need to keep enticing andsurprising their customers. “It’s important to keepbringing in new things, but if not a brand, maybe a new product category. Good examplesare the Laboratory Perfumes and RoyallFragrances we got in before Christmas, both ofwhich I was talked into trying. I have to say it’sopened my eyes to a whole new category of products.”

As for competition, he says there are plentyof fashion retailers doing their own thing but,while he thinks it’s prudent to keep an eye on thecompetition, he also believes retailers often gettoo concerned with what their competitors are upto. “There is so much good product out there,there’s no need to be doing the same as one of

your neighbours,” he says. Straight thinking, andvery true indeed.

Purdis says he only looks forward to gettingstuff in the store that he likes personally. “I justhope that my passion for the product rubs off onthe customers so that we sell them well.” So farthat has been the case. He believes it’s a massivehelp if the buyer works on the shop floor as well,because he sees getting to speak to his customerson a one-to-one basis and really getting to knowthem as a huge advantage. He also believes thatit’s important that the buying has a direction, ashe says an independent “can’t be all things to allpeople.” At Pitti he placed an order with Italianbrand Barena in the Touch area. “Great jackets,beautiful fabrics, good fits and easy to wear,” hesays. “I think it’s important to always push thestore in a certain direction. The labels that aremost interesting are often more expensive. Wehave customers who have a genuine passion fortheir clothes, and it’s important to keep findingnew things to keep them coming back. I alsoalways wear the brands we sell. That is important.”

The target market for the shop is broad interms of age. What Hurdis’ customers do all havein common is that they’re looking for a certainquality, something different, at a price that isn’tridiculous, and something the high street doesn’toffer. He says, “We have young guys coming inbuying Norse Projects tees, and older guys maybecoming in to replace their Tricker’s because theirold ones have given up after 15 years’ service.”

Leather goods is also something that Hurdiswants to get back into as a sideline. They havedabbled fairly recently with small quantities ofEnglish handmade small leather goods, under theCanopy brand name, and that’s something they’dlove to do more of in the near future. “We will lookto do it again, when I can find the right source. Wejust want to do it very slowly in our own store andgauge customers reaction but, who knows, maybein the future we would look to wholesale it. Thelast time we had some leather goods made, a guycalled Peter Smith handmade them for us. He hada workshop on the platform at Haltwhistle trainstation. Unfortunately, he moved to France so itcame to an end.” Hurdis’ dad still helps out in thestore, so maybe with his expertise in leathergoods he’s the man to find the new source. Funnyhow things come full circle.

FEBRUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | REVIEW | 72

CANDY FOR RICHMEN

A brand new label to Bread &Butter despite being establishedfor over seven years, Candy forRichmen is looking to break intothe UK market under the helm offashion agency Agent C forautumn/winter 2014. Offering aseries of unisex designs such asvest, tees and hoodies, it’s thisbrand’s eye for photography printsthat make it one to watch. —

FORBES & LEWIS

Showcasing its quintessentiallyBritish style, Forbes & Lewis madeits debut at last month’s Berlinshow with a range of accessorystaples. Covering weekend bags,holdalls and the odd briefcase, thecollection welcomed theintroduction of neon on its leatherstraps and handles, refreshing itshero piece – the leather backpack. —

HUMOR

Danish label Humor returned tothe halls of Bread & Butter with itssignature denim and contemporarymenswear range. Typically forautumn/winter, outerwear was key,with heavyweight utilitarian parkasfeaturing contrast colour panelsand contrast stitching. Also keywas the houndstooth-print longsleeved shirt, while denimhighlights included the drop crotchwith white buttons, contrast yellowand white hem and pocket stitching.—

brEad& bUttEr

While the majority of talk among the halls of templehof airport focused on the impendingspring/summer 2015 consumer edition of bread & butter, MWb was on the hunt for new labels,

developments and product for autumn/winter 2014. here’s what the team discovered across denim,street and young contemporary menswear.

—

FEBRUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | REVIEW | 73

HYMN

Launching at Bread & Butter thisseason, young menswear labelHymn comes from the same familystable as successful womenswearbrand Louche. Marrying durabilityand functionality with clean,commercially quirky designs, thecollection comprised chinos,knitwear, outerwear, T-shirts andaccessories. Highlights includedknitted jumpers with whale andlobster graphics, tartan linings andteal fisherman jumpers. —

NENA & PASADENA

Launched in Melbourne, Australia,in 2010, Nena & Pasadena returnedto the show with a plethora ofsignature T-shirt prints. Foundedby Tim Arandt, Ryan Griggs andPaul Edwards, the brand hasexperienced great success in itsnative market, and is currentlygrowing quite the following here inthe UK. Highlights include the useof a risqué black and whitephotograph and denim pieces suchas the cut-off waistcoat. —

OILL

Another brand debut at the show,streetwear label Oill stems fromCopenhagen and offers a mix ofunisex apparel, accessories andfootwear styles. Targeting the 15-30age group, the brand creates fourannual collections and is exportedto 17 different markets in Europeand Asia. Oill stays close to its corevalues of a streetwear label thisseason with sports-inspiredsilhouettes, UV-components,graphic prints and a classicmonochrome colour palette. —

THE CUCKOOS NEST

The Cuckoos Nest is adevelopment from the team atcontemporary fashion brandCuckoos Nest, with a morepremium direction in terms ofdesign and logo. Comprisinghoodies, sweats, tracksuit bottoms,shirts, jackets and tees, prints are key and include peacockfeathers, oil-effect and abstractbird illustrations.—

FEBRUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PEOPLE | 74

bErlin VoicEsseek and premium have different appeals as exhibitions, with seek the edgier of the two. but premium is perhaps most likely to throw up a surprise in a hidden corner. tom bottomley went along to get the chatfrom both shows.—

rUssEll pickEttsalEs dirEctor, by Way oFnatUral sElEction

What’s changed with the brand?We’re moving away from our association withdenim, though not forgetting that it’s where ourroots are as we still make very good jeans. But we’renow offering a more clean and contemporaryfashion collection. We’ve cleaned up our jeans andtaken off the Natural Selection Denim branding. It’s

going down more of an APC route – slightly more grown-up. It’s thefirst time we’ve shown it and it’s a lot sharper using cleaner fabrics.“Clean” has become the new “heritage” in terms of an industrybuzzword, so it gets overused a lot.you’ve shown in seek previously, so why now show at premium?Yes, we really like Seek – we’ve shown there for a couple of seasonsand it’s a well-curated show, but we’ve supported our Germandistributor this time at Premium as it’s more of a “local” show for him,and he had two or three other brands there. He feels that for theGerman market he gets more of a premium buyer as opposed toSeek. It’s not really for us, or how we’re moving forward though tobe honest. For instance, we’re showing at Man in New York thisseason. It is more of a step in the right direction, and more of theenvironment where we see the brand fitting.—

rhys daViEssalEs dirEctor, EVisU

Why are you showing the main line and high-endjapanese range in premium, and Evisu genes in seek?Evisu Genes is more streetwear-focused, and wefelt we hadn’t really put a definition between thebrands and on the segmentation of where ourdistribution is going and the feeling of thecollections. The main line is a much more denim-

focused and contemporary collection, featuring a wool peacoat withleather sleeves and a Crombie-style coat with a raw denim collar.And there are a lot of internal details such as denim linings,camouflage and pops of colour. Was this season the first time you’ve shown at premium?Yes, and it was very good. There is a much more focused customercoming in who understands the product instantly. They can see thedifference between the main line and the handmade in Japancollection, which is our cherry on the cake. That has the white patchwith red Buddha logo – and No.2 on it. Each jean has either hand-painted or applique back pockets. There are limited production runson it, and everything about it is hand-crafted in the Japanese factory.It’s therefore limited distribution. The jeans retail for £500-plus,whereas the main line is £200-plus. The Evisu Genes line goes for£130-£190. It keeps the distribution channels clear, and the brandingis different on all of them.—

FEliX staEUdingEroWnEr and distribUtor, MEnil

What is your brand ethos?We are from Dusseldorf, but we make outerwear inEast London under Menil, which was mygrandfather’s name. He travelled around sellingyarns and textiles during the 50s and 60s. We’redoing duffle coats, reefers and quilted jackets in lotsof colours. We also have a shawl-neck duffle style,and we do one in a camouflage fabric, which breaks

with tradition. We’re producing classics, but in a more modern fit andwith modern details. We’re also using contrast colours, which give atraditional piece such as a duffle a younger appeal. how long has the brand been established?It’s our second year, so this is our fourth season. We cater for men,women and kids. Our label on the outerwear says, “Handcrafted inEast London.” We want to bring European-made products to the finalconsumer for the best possible price. Our duffle coats retail for€390. We also make belts in Cornwall and linen scarves at an oldweaver in France. Our goal is to find good manufacturers anddevelop with them a product that fits our brand. In 10 years we wouldlike to have a complete collection – all made in Europe. We are alsocurrently seeking UK distribution.—

Marc hicklingdirEctor, Marc alEXandEragEnciEs ltd. shoWing circlEoF gEntlEMEn

how long has the brand been established in the Uk?Around two years. It’s a Dutch brand and it has itsown twist. We’ve been specific to where we’veplaced it – only working with the best independentssuch as Jules B, Jonathan Trumball and Hatters. We

tend to work with tailoring specialists. In fact we’re now in around60 of the most premium independents. We’ve so far held off with thedepartment stores because we want to grow the label through theindependent channel first. so is this a turning point for you?I’d say so, because the collection has now grown up a bit, and thecustomers we’re working with have had fantastic sell-throughs. Wealso offer a good stock replenishment system. Shirts retail at £129-£149. A lot of the fabrics are exclusive to Circle of Gentlemen. Blazersare a strong category for us, too – shorter in fit but traditional intailoring. They range from £299 to around £450. We sit alongsideCanali and Zegna in a lot of stores. Everything is half-canvassed and,though the end customer doesn’t necessarily recognise that, theyunderstand the fit and the quality when they wear it.—

PREMIUM

FEBRUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PEOPLE | 75

stuart Grahamsales manaGer, a numBer oFnames, showinG new laBel tsptr

what’s the new label all about?it’s from the guys who have trainerspotter and hadthe heritage research line. the abbreviated namestands for the five principles of modernist design,as quoted by famous architect louis sullivan – truth,symmetry, pleasure, taste and recognition. there’sa peanuts collaboration, based around the 60s

comic strip featuring charlie brown and snoopy. there are alsoreferences to the student protests in america in the 60s, when thevietnam war was really kicking in. some of the graphics incorporatethe classic vietnam film apocalypse now with Marlon brando. any key pieces?there’s a t-shirt featuring charlie brown with a surfboard and thecaption, “charlie don’t surf”, which is a well-known quote from thefilm. in terms of product it’s that heritage sports look, with good-quality heavyweight tees and sweats. there’s also a coach jacketfeaturing a charlie brown graphic with a cord collar and quilted lining.—

DaViD keyteowner anD DesiGner, uniVersal works

how many times have you shown at seek?this is our fourth time. we weren’t getting a lot ofgerman business, and obviously you come to berlinhoping to get some german customers. we werepicking up customers from other parts of the worldwho travel, but not much business in germany. lasttime we had a bit of interest, but this season we’ve

been inundated with people wanting to buy the collection. seek islike the quirky young upstart of premium – it’s part of it, but it’sdefinitely very different. Maybe it used to be too quirky for thegerman market, but perhaps now it’s not. there are a lot of germanstores coming in and liking what they’re seeing. where are you taking your design route?we always try to use as many british fabrics as we can. we buy a lotof fabric from yorkshire, lancashire and scotland, and we makethings in the Uk where we can. we’ve always been a mix of fashionand streetwear. it’s very casual, but we still have a slightly smarteredge to us – and we’ve moved it in that direction i think. there’s onlyso much you do with menswear without it starting to look jokey.classic works, but classic changes all the time. what was classic 20years ago is a very different shape now. silhouettes change.—

marco cairnsDesiGner, DuFFer oF st GeorGe Japan

how does this brand differ to the Duffer line thatsells in JD sports?this is more like the original duffer of st georgecollections. i’ve been designing it for Japan for thelast 10 years, and the idea is to now bring it back toeurope. it is a proper menswear collection, aimedat an older audience. there’s more attention to

detail and the price points are higher. whereas the Jd line is morethe sportswear side, this is more jerseys and wovens, and there arestronger outerwear pieces such as the deck jacket. are there any archive pieces you’re reintroducing?we’ve introduced a small archive range, featuring pieces we weredoing around 15 years ago – using the original label and old artwork.people have been asking for it. it’s only the second season we’vebeen available in the Uk again. what has been the reaction?i was nervous about it at first, in terms of how people were going toreact – obviously with the Jd thing. but it’s generally been positive.it’s got a different handwriting, and people are coming back to it.—

GorDon lawrieaccount manaGer, BarBour

which part of the Barbour offer was at seek?the men’s heritage collection, as well asdepartment b – which is a capsule line within men’sheritage. it’s in its third season, and is influenced byan old customisation room we used to have at southshields. it’s based around a military look, and ismore of a premium collection to sit where we usedto have the to ki to line for beacon heritage.

there’s also a hunting lodge theme for a/w 14. and we’re in our thirdand final season of our collaboration with patrick grant from norton& sons, then we will have something new for s/s 15.how does it differ from Barbour international?we feel we have two strong stories. at bread & butter we have ourbarbour international stand. barbour international was started in1936 supplying international product and motorcycle gear. they areboth now clearly defined offers, and we wouldn’t carry the heritageline in our barbour international stores.—

SEEK

FEBRUARY 2014 | PEOPLE |MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 76

collectiVethe people, the places, the products.

remember the millennium? i found myself thinking about thatauspicious date this new year’s eve. Despite the doomsdaysoothsayers, the world didn’t collapse at midnight. the much-vauntedmillennium Bug failed to materialise to the relief of all, especially thoseit contractors who had been charging £5,000 a day in late 1999 tomake our systems future-proof.

they were the late 20th-century equivalents of plumbers looking atfaulty boilers. there was much sucking in of air, prodding and poking,jargon designed to exclude mere mortals, and dire forecasts designed tomake those mere mortals pay through the nose for something theequivalent of a tap washer. “two sugars and have you got any biscuits?”

common to both is the sense of anxiety, of not wanting things to gowrong, to be on top of the issue. now we have a new anxiety – socialMedia inadequacy disorder, or sMid for short. we are bombardedcontinually by commentators explaining that conventional means ofcommunications – such as talking – are dead, and that the under 30s onlyrespond to whatsapp, blogs and twitter. Unless stimulated by socialmedia, they drift into a catatonic state. you see them on buses and thetube. blank faces, lifeless eyes, slumped, just waiting for their devices tobleep to reactivate them.

an entire industry has grown up feeding off our collective sMid. theother day i was asked by a blogger, “how many twitter followers do youhave?” when i replied, proudly, “one thousand”, i was given the kind ofwithering look normally reserved for people who strangle cats for fun.

My somewhat old-fashioned view that good retail is as necessary asgood online – at least for my business – does not exclude social media.i’m not that stupid. i know i need it, even if i don’t like it much.

last summer i suffered a particularly bad sMid attack when itbecame clear that i didn’t know the difference between pinterest andtumblr. enough was enough – i recruited Jess, my marketing manager.bright, young and thankfully free of sMid, she soon had all the socialmedia under control. now we are all connected and engaged.

but much of this is common sense, and i’m glad that we did it inhouse. Jess has managed to maintain the “flavour” of the brand on all thedifferent platforms, and there is plainly a rising awareness of the brandon google and this must play a part. i no longer feel inadequate. Maybei should tweet that. or post it on facebook. or maybe just have a nicecup of tea.simon carter is the ceo of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

—

little black bookthe Doll’s house,

lonDon n1

there’s nothing like a time limit to lend an air of exclusivity to a venue and,due for demolition in a year’s time, london’s new club, the Doll’s house,fits the bill when it comes to must-visit, “get it while it’s still standing”after-hours socialising. —occupying a somewhat faceless office block on the eastern side of hoxtonsquare, the doll’s house turns a shabby building into an atmosphericbackdrop for those wanting an after-hours drink in the parlour, a culinaryexperience in the dining room or time out on the venue’s rooftop terrace.free membership is available via the club’s online form.

—

plan B

Declan wisedirector, afends

having grown up and lived my entire life in ByronBay (a small town with a great lifestyle in australia),i could not see myself chained to a city – eventhough i love city life. —My plan b would be shaping surfboards; it feels sogood to be able to create a piece of art that you canhave so much fun on. the ultimate goal would be tolive somewhere tropical like indo [bali] with goodfood and great surf. i’d be focused on clean eating,happiness and being energetic. in the off-season, myplan b would to be based in europe as it’s got moreculture and good-looking people than anywhere elseon the planet. although plan b sounds amazing, plana is proving very successful, and being based out ofbyron bay makes plenty of time for work, health,happiness and a great life.

—

siMon says

© Pa

ul R

owla

nd

FEBRUARY 2014 | PEOPLE |MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 77

My wardrobe must-have? i’d have to say my Electric“sunnies” have been a favourite of mine for years. Theyare good quality but hardwearing, which is perfect for meas you’re most active when outside in the sun, and so Iappreciate their sports edge. “Sunnies” are a must-havefor holidays and travelling, so it’s good to have a pair thatserve me well but some I’m not super precious over. Thereis no point in spending lots of money on something likesunglasses and not wearing them. —My Wesc skate pack ticks two boxes for me – travel

friendly and skate friendly. It’s easy to get in and out of, which is good for a manwho travels frequently. I also skate a lot, so this pack can carry my laptop and workdocuments, but I can still carry a board on the back. —With the travelling comes plenty of walking to and from trade shows, airportsand train stations. So it’s important to have a good pair of shoes, and that’s why Iwear my Volcom Sub Zero boots 90 per cent of the time when I am on the road.They are so comfortable and warm but aren’t heavy, so I’m not dragging my feetaround. There is nothing worse than shoes that rub. I normally only take one pairon a trip, and these lend themselves well to day and evening events. —next up is my Volcom grant taylor shirt. Being on the road a lot means I havebecome a pro at packing light, and am often looking for versatile items that can beused repeatedly. This item works well over a T-shirt as a shirt or jacket, so I can getmultiple wears on one trip.—i have always been a beanie wearer, whether it is cold or not. When it comes tobeanies, I wear many labels and colours, but I keep coming back to my UrbanOutfitters’ own-brand one because I like the colour and the chunky knit material,which holds up well in the rain.

paUl bUcklandcoUntry ManagEr, VolcoM

TOP TWEETS

SOCIETY

Lee Jeans�@LeeJeans Great fit and great style are synonymous.#thesaurusday

Stuart Flatt @stuartflatt People who leave the cross thread in therear of a new blazer or suit. Really?

Nathan Rous @NathanRous Not sure the quiet carriage on this train wasprepared for the noisiest opening of a muffinever. Sorry....

David Walker-Smith @DavidEWS @LBQblog: today marks the beginning of anew era for @FenwickBondSt - their logo isturning white! For good!

Katy Lubin�@katylubin Bravo Santander for sponsoring@JohnSmedley apprenticeship scheme.Wonderful British brand that will now beable to boost local workforce

Daniel Rhone @danielrhone It looks like it's Argyle everywhere atMoncleur this evening #MFW

Lizzie Singleton�@DebsPR_Lizzie All my wardrobe consists of is leathershorts/skirts/trousers, grey t-shirts &jumpers & odd pair of jeans. I'm like afemale @SimonCowell

David Watts�@David_M_Watts Reviewing SS14 Couture collections andsomeone must explain to Designers thatvery expensive fabrics does not alone HauteCouture make?

thE partiEs and EVEnts FroM in and aroUnd thE MEnsWEar indUstry.

closEtconFidEntial

As part of the London Collections: Men three-day event lastmonth, British label Ben Sherman welcomed guests includingsinger Eliza Doolittle (pictured), Olympian Louis Smith andMade in Chelsea star turned designer Oliver Proudlock to anexclusive presentation of its autumn/winter 2014 Plectrumline, introduced with a short film by design duo Agi & Sam.

Menswear designer Patrick Grant (pictured) gave theaudience at the recent UKFT Rise StartUp Fashion Event an insight into his journey from purchasing the strugglingSavile Row tailor Norton & Sons to reviving the business as fashion’s go-to bespoke suit service and launching ready-to-wear range E.Tautz.

Trade exhibition Premium welcomed more than 350 buyers,industry insiders and press to announce the winners of thePremium Young Designers Award 2014, with the MenswearDesigner of the Year Award presented to London label Na DiStudio (pictured centre).


thE bottoMlEy linEMWb deputy editor tom bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

it’s a FaMily aFFair

Well-known industry face Mark McCann and hiswife, Hannah, and brother-in-law Charlie Warren– along with his wife Shelly – are backingouterwear brand Greatcoat, which we’re thinkingwill do everything it says on the tin, or cloth forthat matter. The project is supported with morefamily members getting involved, includingcousins of the clan to support sales andcommunications. There are some good-lookingpieces, classics reinvented if you will. “We havecombined our skill sets in putting together apremium offer of men’s outerwear,” says McCann.“We felt passionate enough to utilise our socialtime – that we already spend together – workingon design, trims, details, sourcing and production.Our experience, and 80 years in the fashionindustry combined, has got this labour of love upand running. We are all committed to our day jobswith continued zest and appetite for success, butwe are also pursuing this project to ensureGreatcoat has the opportunity to succeed.”Spoken like a true professional. Launching atJacket Required, McCann adds that they areusing “the very best of British manufacturing,” aswell as the finest Italian fabrics, with classic andtechnical detailing thrown into the mix.

“pitbUll” daVids says Fashion ishis passion

Former footie pro Edgar Davids, who ex-Ajaxmanager Louis van Gaal once nicknamed ThePitbull for his tenacious style of play despite beingonly 5ft 7in, is now up and running with his secondlove – fashion. His Monta Heritage line launchedat Pitti, and it’s likely he’s got a few mates with alot of spare cash who will now be getting toggedup by the Surinamese-born Dutch professional,who was capped 74 times by the Netherlands. Hisdreadlocked hair and protective goggles made

him one of the most recognised players of hisgeneration, and he’s now hoping his style will bepicked up on by many others (not necessarily thedreads and goggles you understand). MontaSoccer, Davids’ “street football” gear, has beenaround for a while, but this is pure fashion andthere’s something different about it. Davids hastravelled a lot in his time at the likes of Milan,Juventus – where manager Marcello Lippi oncedescribed him as “my one man engine room” –Barcelona, Tottenham, Crystal Palace – albeitshort-lived – and even as player-manager ofConference Premier side Barnet (bet the fanswore dreadlock wigs while he was there, but willthey be sporting Montage Heritage for a/w 14?).So he likes to be stylish but comfortable, with a bitof luxury thrown in, of course, despite the Barnetphase. He even underwent a part-time fashiondesign course at St Martins. And he’s nailed the“sneaker suit”, if ever there was such a thing. A“whistle” (and not the ref’s) that looks right with apair of trainers, in a flecked wool that seriouslylooks the part. He loves a bit of leather, too, thoughthese days it’s not because of his favourite footieboots but because of his favourite flying jacket.

thE look that kEEps on giVing

The beard, the fishing jacket, the boots with thewhite wedge soles, or brogues, of course, thetattoos – even on the neck (once the preserve ofbank robbers, now the favoured look of bankclerks) is a look that dangerously seems to betaking over the world. Berlin was particularlyinflicted with such tribesmen for the last bout ofshows, but when will it end? It’s a trend that’srapidly turning into a disaster, especially lookingaround the waiting lounge at Berlin airport. Eventhe geeks are going for the neck tats these days,and they won’t be able to grow a beard longenough to cover them up should they one dayrealise their error of judgement in the name ofsupposed coolness. In my youthful days, it wasonly the skinhead nutters – and those bound foryoung offenders units – who dared to ink theirnecks, faces, ears, eyes and inside lips. Call me oldfashioned, but I think we’ve got an ink epidemic.We need a new trend please, maybe we can westart with a razor?

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

© Pa

ul M

owat

t

GREYCOAT MAKESITS DEBUT ATJACKET REQUIREDTHIS SEASON

EDGAR DAVIDS HAS LAUNCHED

HIS NEW FASHION LINE, MONTA HERITAGE

FEBRUARY 2014 | DIRECTORY | 80

big sizEs

casUalWEar garMEnt stands

stEaMErs & irons

Unit 63 (Sixth Floor) Regent Studios8 Andrews Road, Hackney, London E8 4QNTel: 0207 254 8888 Fax: 0207 254 8889Email: [email protected]

sUits

WantEd

to advertise please callsharon on

01484 846069or email

[email protected]


01484 846069or email

[email protected]

AGENTS WANTEDWe are looking foragents to cover allregions to sell a NEW BRAND OF

DESIGNER GRAPHIC T-SHIRTS.

Email:agents@random

clothing.eu

agEnts WantEd


01484 846069or email

[email protected]

FEBRUARY 2014 | DIRECTORY | 81

to subscribe to MWb simply call +44 (0)1484 846069or visit mwb-online.co.uk.

EU £75 (includes p+p) outside EU £146 (includes p+p)

nEXt issUEaprilonE stEp bEyondMWB PUTS THE FOCUS ON FOOTWEAR

accEssory to a criMETHE KEY ACCESSORIES AND ADD-ONS FOR THE NEW SEASON

80s rEViValTHE RELAUNCH OF 80S CLASSIC BONEVILLE+online insider |

retail insider |

collective |

last orders With...

ANTHONY MILES

to advertise on mwb-online.co.uk please contact sharon le goffon +44 (0)1484 846069or email [email protected]


last orDers with...casely–hayForDafter a triumphant start to the new season following their autumn/winter 2014 debut at london collections: men, father-and-son design duo Joe and charlie casely-hayford talk to mwB’s Victoria Jackson about fine-tuning their workingrelationship and the dream of dressing president obama. —

Place of birth: JC-H: Kent CC-H: LondonLive now: LondonD/O/B: JC-H: 24/05/56 CC-H: 24/05/86Twitter: @CaselyHayfordUK Website: www.casely-hayford.com

importantly, we share the same core vision andideals. we even share the same birthday.cc-h: it’s in the finer details that we bringdifferent things to the table. it’s always aninteresting process as an exchange betweenfather and son, where i try to convey how i haveperceived something for the first time and why it’srelevant, and my father may have experienced orseen it several times over in his career. Most of thetime it’s about context, and we often go back andforth. i guess it’s a form of education that worksboth ways.

Do you draw inspiration from anyone or any timein particular in terms of your personal style?Jc-h: i’m classic in my style, and my wardrobeworks around the same pieces. i find changingproportions with time moves my look forward. forexample, during the winter i wore an oversizedchesterfield coat, a cashmere crew neck, 1968 levi’sand triple-welted U-tip brogues – all the samestyles i would have worn differently five years ago. cc-h: i wear a uniform and probably always will.i like the sense of stability when working insomething as transient as fashion. My style is kindof a sartorial skinhead. i don’t know how else todescribe it. i wear a suit and t-shirt every day withcropped trousers, red socks and 12-hole armyboots with a white pocket square. i like not havingto think in the morning.

Quick-Fire Questions—Dream client? JC-H: President Obama.— What’s the best piece of advice you’veever received? CC-H: Life is what you make it; don’twait around for things to happen.—Theme tune to your life? JC-H: A little bit of Miles Davis mixedwith some Poulenc piano and Madlib. —Film that made in impact on your life? CC-H: Withnail and I.—Labels in your closet?CC-H: Comme des Garçons and NikeAir Jordan sweats.

First of all, congratulations on a great start tothe season. where did you start in terms ofinspiration for the a/w 14 collection?Jc-h: we have been overwhelmed by thereaction to our first show. the casely-hayforddna brings together our main influences – aninterest in social issues and the energy of britishsubcultures, with a new spirit in tailoring thatdraws on traditional methods and techniques. Mybackground combines designing commissionedstage outfits and dressing the highest membersof the british establishment during my time ascreative director of gieves & hawkes.

charlie, you joined forces with your father in2008 to establish casely-hayford. was it a pathyou had always thought about going down?cc-h: yes. we discussed working together whilemy father was at gieves & hawkes. i studied at stMartins and went on to study fine art in florence.i was in the middle of a history of art course at thecourtauld institute when we joined forces. welaunched our first collection while i was still atuniversity. i didn’t get much kip around that time.

Joe, you have had a successful career as both amenswear and womenswear designer, but whohave you enjoyed designing for the most?Jc-h: i enjoy designing for both men and women.with menswear, i’m constantly aware of the formalsartorial rules and traditions that create interestingparameters to work within. womenswear,meanwhile, begins with a blank canvas, whichpresents infinite possibilities.

Do you both have equal roles in terms ofdesigning each collection?Jc-h: we work closely and enjoy an ongoingdialogue which, as you might gather, is approachedfrom opposite ends of the generation spectrum.this does present some “interesting” exchanges,but we tend to find that our strongest ideas areoften the result of the deepest discussions. Most

MWB210 MAGAZINE FEBRUARY ISSUE

Documents

Transcript of MWB210 MAGAZINE FEBRUARY ISSUE