MRD Service Gu

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    Table of Contents

    Description PageIntroduction 3Disassembly/Assembly Instructions Casting systems 4- 9

    Hex Thru Axle Installation9

    Noble Air system Service Instructions10 - 15

    MRD Damping system Service Instructions16 - 26

    Technical Data 27

    Service Kit Matrix 28

    Fork Torque Specs 29

    Trouble shooting Tips 30 - 31

    Contact Information

    Hayes Bicycle GroupTech Support6750 W. Florist Ave.Milwaukee, WI. 53218

    Toll Free: (888) 686-3472Direct: (414) 462-0021FAX: (414) 462-0214E-mail: [email protected] site: www.manitoumtb.com

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    INTRODUCTION

    This manual is intended to guide the user through basic service of Manitou front forks.Service is supported by the identification of common parts and assemblies that havebeen assembled into Service Kits. The purpose of this manual will be to describeconditions that may drive the need for service and to provide installation instructions forthe kits.

    Due to the time-consuming nature of suspension fork service, at this time our primaryfocus is to offer service kits that minimize the amount of downtime and labor involved.

    Important information is highlighted in this manual by the following notations:

    WARNINGFailure to follow WARNING instructions could result in severe injury or death to theperson inspecting or repairing the suspension fork or the user.

    CAUTIONA CAUTION a caution indicates special precautions that must be taken to avoid damage tothe product.

    NOTEA NOTE provides key information to make procedures easier or clearer

    GENERAL WARNING: Suspension forks by design can contain preloaded springs,gases and fluids under extreme pressure and warnings contained in this manualmust be observed to reduce the possibility of injury or possible death. Followingthese instructions can help you reduce the risk of being injured. Any questions inregards to the information in this manual should be directed to HBG Tech Supportat (888) 686-3472.

    WARNING: Suspension forks uses preloaded spring(s) to provide compression springresistance. This system must be relieved of preload prior to servicing. Failure to relieveair pressure could result in injury or possible death.

    CAUTION: Suspension forks use precision machined aluminum and other soft alloy components.Using correct tools for assembly is essential to prevent damage.

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    MRD Casting ServiceIncludes Semi Bath change, seal change, and casting change

    Tool List: 12mm wrench, 1.5mm Allen, 7mm Allen, Park Green Pin Spanner (or similar), Shock Pump

    1. Using a shock pump slowly release the air pressure from the Noble Air

    System through the valve on the bottom of the left fork leg. Please Note: When

    the air is removed too rapidly, it will cause air to be trapped in the negative air

    chamber causing the fork to "suck down". If this happens, it is easily fixed bypumping up the air spring back up above the pressure that you originally had in

    the system and then release the air slowly

    2. Remove the 12mm nut from the compression rod on the bottom of the left

    leg.

    3. Remove the blue rebound knob on the bottom of the right leg with a 1.5mm

    Allen wrench. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as the

    are very small and easily lost.

    WARNING:This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must be

    relieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result in

    injury or possible death.

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    4. Remove the detent balls and springs from the Detent Housing.

    5. Remove the Detent housing by unscrewing it counter-clockwise using a gree

    Park Tool pin spanner (or similar tool) inserted into the holes that the springs

    and detent balls sit in.

    6. Using a 7mm Allen wrench, usnscrew the rebound assembly from the casting

    by turning it clockwise.

    7. Pull the casting off the Crown Steerer assembly. It is best to do this over somtype of drip pan to catch the semi-bath that is in the outer legs. Throughly clean

    out the casting to get any contamiated oil and dirt out. If you are changing the

    fork seals, proceed to the next step, if not go to step 13.

    8. To remove the dust seals, first remove the seal tension springs (otherwise

    they will get damaged), then take a large flat-bladed screwdriver and insert the

    tip between the bottom of the seal and the top of the foam wiper.

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    9. Push down on the screwdriver. This will pop the seal out of the casting. Next

    remove the foam oil ring.

    10. Oil the foam rings (new or after cleaning the old rings) with a small amount o

    semi-bath oil and place them in the top of the casting above the Upper Bushing

    11. Install the dust seal into the leg, use a large socket or piece of round tubing

    that is large enough in diameter to press on the outside shoulder of the seal

    rather than putting pressure on the sealing lip and spring so that they are not

    damaged. Repeat steps 9-12 for the opposite fork leg.

    12. Extend the compression rod and the rebound shaft fully, check to see if the

    face seal on the rebound shaft and the o-ring on the compression rod are

    damaged. If so, replace them, otherwise it is OK to reuse them.

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    13. Slide the casting onto the stanchions being careful not to pinch the lip on the

    dust seals. Once the seals are on the legs slide the legs down about 3/4 of the

    way down.

    14. Hold the fork at approximately a 45 degree angle with the drop outs up.

    Using a squeeze bottle or syringe put 16cc(16ml) of Semi Bath (5w40 synthetic

    oil) into each leg of the fork. Be careful that the oil is not poured into the end of

    the rebound shaft or the air valve on the end of the compression rod. After the

    Semi Bath is in each leg, slide the casting down the rest of the way until the

    casting makes contact with the rebound shaft.

    15. Using the 7mm Allen, turn the rebound shaft counter-clockwise to screw the

    rebound assembly into the casting. Tighten it to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).

    Note:You may need to put a slight amount side pressure on the Allen wrench

    and pull out on the rebound shaft to get it to start in the casting. Warning: Do no

    overtighten the rebound damper assembly into the casting, it will cause damage

    to the sealing o-ring on the end of the shaft and cause the semi bath oil to leak

    out of the casting. It is recommended to use a torque wrench when tightening

    this assembly.

    16. Screw the detent assembly clockwise on to the portion of thread of the

    rebound shaft that protrudes out of the casting. Using a tool like the Park Tool

    Pin Spanner and the 7mm Allen wrench, tighten the Detent Housing in a

    clockwise direction while holding the rebound shaft stationary with the Allen

    wrench. Tighten the Detent Housing to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).

    Pinched

    Correct

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    17. Insert a small spring into each of the holes on the detent assembly, apply a

    small amount of grease on top of the spring to hold the detent balls, and then

    place a detent ball on top of each spring.

    18. Place the blue rebound knob on the needle in the rebound assembly and

    attach it with the machine screw using the 1.5mm wrench. Tighten it to 5-8inlbs

    (.6-.9N-m) and be sure to use blue LocTite on the threads.

    19. Install the 12mm nut that secures the compression rod in the left fork leg.

    Tighten it in a clockwise direction to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m). If there is not a

    washer located under the 12mm nut, place a thin washer onto the exposed

    threaded shaft protruding through the casting before you reinstall the nut.

    20. Pressurize the main spring by turning your bike upside down, install the air

    pump on to the schrader valve and then inflate to the pressure that you normally

    use. Now, go have a great ride!

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    32mm Leg Thru Axle and Quick Release Thru Axle Instructions

    Standard Hex Thru Axle

    Removal Instructions

    Removal of Hex Thru Axle1. Loosen the two 3mm clamp-fixing bolts on the right fork leg. (See Fig. 1)

    2. Remove the Thru Axle nut from the right side of the Thru Axle.

    3. Loosen the two 3mm clamp-fixing bolts on the left fork leg.

    4. Push the Hex Thru Axle out of the dropouts from left to right and

    completely remove it and the front wheel from the fork.

    Assembly Instructions

    Fig. 1 Installation of Hex Thru Axle

    1. Insert the Clamp Nuts (See Fig.3 A) into the small hexagonalhole in each of the drop outs.

    2. Start two clamp fixing bolts (See Fig.3 C) in each dropout.Do not tighten these bolts down at this time

    3. Hold the wheel between the dropouts of the fork.4. Insert Hex Thru Axle small hex first into the outside of the left

    drop out (as you are facing the fork) and push it through the hub

    of the wheel, and into the right drop out.

    5. Thread the Thru Axle nut into the end of the axle that is in theright drop out. Thread the Thru Axle nut all of the way in.

    Fig. 2 Tighten the 3mm clamp fixing bolts to the specified torque value6. Push down on the fork a few times to allow the hub to center.

    Tighten the 3mm clamp fixing bolts to the specified torque value

    as called out in Technical Specification Chart at the end of this

    manual. (See Fig 1)

    7. Finish the installation by tightening axle nut to specified torque(See Fig 2)

    Fig. 3

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    MRD Noble Air System ServiceIncludes complete disassembly and service of the air spring system

    Tool List: 12mm wrench, 15mm wrench, 20mm socket, 1.5mm Allen, 7mm Allen, Park Green Pin Spanner (or

    1. Using a shock pump slowly release the air pressure from the Noble Air

    System through the valve on the bottom of the left fork leg. Please Note: When

    the air is removed too rapidly, it will cause air to be trapped in the negative air

    chamber causing the fork to "suck down". If this happens, it is easily fixed by

    pumping up the air spring back up above the pressure that you originally had inthe system and then release the air slowly

    2. Remove the 12mm nut from the compression rod on the bottom of the left leg

    3. Remove the blue rebound knob on the bottom of the right leg with a 1.5mm

    Allen wrench. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as the

    are very small and easily lost.

    WARNING:This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must berelieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result in

    injury or possible death.

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    4. Remove the Detent balls and springs from the Detent Housing.

    5. Remove the Detent housing by unscrewing it counter-clockwise using a gree

    Park Tool pin spanner (or similar tool) inserted into the holes that the springs

    and detent balls sit in.

    6. Using a 7mm Allen wrench, usnscrew the rebound assembly from the casting

    by turning it clockwise.

    7. Pull the casting off the crown steerer assembly. It is best to do this over sometype of drip pan to catch the semi-bath that is in the casting. Thoroughly clean

    out the casting to get any contaminated oil and dirt out. If the fork seals need to

    be serviced, please reference the casting service instructions for details. If you

    are planning to service the damping system please reference those instructions

    8. Use a 15mm wrench to remove the compression rod from the bottom of the

    left fork leg. There may be oil in the area between the endcap and the piston

    (only a few cc/ml) so use caution when pulling the assembly from the fork leg.

    Also it is normal to have a slight amount of negative pressure when removing th

    assembly.

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    9. Inspect the quad seal (might be an o-ring) and piston glide ring for wear or

    damage and replace if any is found. Pay special attention to the area of the qua

    seal that was moving over the negative spring charge slot, as this is where you

    might see possible damage. It will appear like the image as two small areas thaare approximately 1mm wide gouged out of the sealing lips of the quad ring.

    10. Using a 20mm socket, remove the top cap and air spring compensator by

    turning it counter-clockwise.

    11. The air spring compensator is a press fit on the end of the intermediate air

    piston, a sharp pull will separate the two pieces.

    12. Even though the air spring compensator is not actively compressed by the

    compression rod and piston, over time this material will degrade and lose its

    effective spring rate from being compressed by the air pressure in the fork and

    will need to be replaced periodically. The 80mm R7 will use the 60mm long air

    spring compensator, all other MRD forks, R7100mm and both Minute 100 and

    130mm, will use the shorter 40mm air spring compensator.

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    13. Invert the fork, lightly grease the glide ring and quad seal on the air piston

    and also the o-ring on the end cap. Gently insert the piston into the left fork leg,

    will ease the installation past the threads in the inner leg if you turn the assemb

    like screwing in a screw. When screwing the end cap into the leg watch to be

    sure that the o-ring does not catch on the edge of the leg. Torque the end cap t80inlbs (9.0N-m).

    14. Turn the fork upright, and pour about 3-5cc of air piston oil (20w50 synthetic

    motor oil) on the top of the air piston, this will be just enough to cover the dish in

    the piston.

    15. Attach the air spring compensator to the top cap assembly by pushing it on

    to the post on the bottom of the top cap air piston. Lightly grease the o-rings on

    the air piston and the top cap. Gently insert the piston into the left fork leg, it wil

    ease the installation past the threads in the inner leg if you turn the assembly lik

    screwing in a screw. Once the air piston is inside the leg you will meet some

    resistance trying to insert the assembly further as it will build up some air

    pressure in the system, this is normal. When screwing the endcap into the leg

    watch to be sure that the o-ring does not catch on the edge of the leg. Torque

    the top cap to 80inlbs.

    16. Extend the compression rod and the rebound shaft fully, check to see if the

    face seal on the rebound shaft and the o-ring on the compression rod aredamaged if so replace them, otherwise it is OK to reuse them.

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    17. Slide the casting onto the stanchions being careful not to pinch the lip on the

    dust seals. Once the seals are on the legs slide the legs down about 3/4 of theway down.

    18. Hold the fork at approximately a 45 degree angle with the drop outs up.

    Using a squeeze bottle or syringe put 16cc(16ml) of semibath (5w40 synthetic

    oil) into each leg of the fork. Be careful that the oil is not poured into the end of

    the rebound shaft or the air valve on the end of the compression rod. After thesemibath is in each leg, slide the casting down the rest of the way until the

    casting makes contact with the rebound shaft.

    19. Using the 7mm Allen, turn the rebound shaft counter-clockwise to screw the

    rebound assembly into the casting. Tighten it to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).

    Note:You may need to put a slight amount side pressure on the Allen wrench

    and pull out on the rebound shaft to get it to start in the casting. Warning: Do no

    overtighten the rebound damper assembly into the casting, it will cause damage

    to the sealing o-ring on the end of the shaft and cause the semi bath oil to leakout of the casting. It is recommended to use a torque wrench when tightening

    this assembly.

    20. Screw the detent assembly clockwise on to the portion of thread of the

    rebound shaft that protrudes out of the casting. Using a tool like the Park Tool

    Pin Spanner and the 7mm Allen wrench, tighten the Detent Housing in a

    clockwise direction while holding the rebound shaft stationary with the Allen

    wrench. Tighten the Detent Housing to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).

    Pinched

    Correct

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    21. Insert a small spring into each of the holes on the detent assembly, apply a

    small amount of grease on top of the springs to hold the detent balls, and then

    place a detent ball on top of each spring.

    22. Place the blue rebound knob on the needle in the rebound assembly and

    attach it with the machine screw using the 1.5mm wrench. Tighten it to 5-8inlbs

    (.6-.9N-m) and be sure to use blue LocTite on the threads.

    23. Install the 12mm nut that secures the compression rod in the left fork leg.If

    there is not a washer located under the 12mm nut, place a thin washer onto the

    exposed threaded shaft protruding through the casting before you reinstall the

    nut.Tighten it in a clockwise direction to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).

    24. Pressurize the main spring by turning your bike upside down, install the air

    pump on to the schrader valve and then inflate to the pressure that you normally

    use. Now, go have a great ride!

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    MRD Damping Systems ServiceIncludes complete disassembly and service of the Various Damping Systems used in theTool List: 12mm wrench, 15mm wrench, 20mm socket, 24mm socket, 1.5mm Allen, 7mm Allen, Park Green Pin

    1. Using a shock pump slowly release the air pressure from the Noble Air

    System through the valve on the bottom of the left fork leg. Please Note: When

    the air is removed too rapidly, it will cause air to be trapped in the negative air

    chamber causing the fork to "suck down". If this happens, it is easily fixed by

    pumping up the air spring back up above the pressure that you originally had in

    the system and then release the air slowly

    2. Remove the 12mm nut from the compression rod on the bottom of the left leg

    3. Remove the blue rebound knob on the bottom of the right leg with a 1.5mm

    Allen wrench. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as the

    are very small and easily lost.

    WARNING:This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must berelieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result in

    injury or possible death.

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    4. Remove the detent balls and springs from the Detent Housing.

    5. Remove the Detent housing by unscrewing it counter-clockwise using a gree

    Park Tool pin spanner (or similar tool) inserted into the holes that the springs

    and detent balls sit in.

    6. Using a 7mm Allen wrench, unscrew the rebound assembly from the casting

    by turning it clockwise.

    7. Pull the casting off the crown steerer assembly. It is best to do this over sometype of drip pan to catch the semi-bath that is in the outer legs. Throughly clean

    out the casting to get any contamiated oil and dirt out. If the fork seals need to

    be serviced, please reference the casting service instructions for details. If you

    are planning to service the damping system please reference those instructions

    For TPC forks proceed to the next step, for Absolute forks: proceed to step 11

    and for RCT Lock-out forks: proceed to step 14

    8. TPC Forks: Turn the TPC adjustment knob on top of the right side of the forkcounter-clockwise until it reaches the travel limit.Using an 1.5mm allen wrench

    remove the screw in the center of the knob, turn the screw counter-clockwise to

    remove. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as they are

    very small and easily lost.

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    9. Remove the detent balls and springs from the top of the assembly.

    10. Using a 20mm socket remove the TPC compression assembly from the fork

    leg. As you pull the piston out of the damper body be cautious not to spill the oil

    Once the TPC assembly is removed, pour the oil in the damper body out and

    dispose of it properly. Stroke the rebound shaft once or twice while doing this to

    ensure that all of the oil is removed. Continue to step 17 Warning: If thecartridge tube becomes dislodged as you remove the compression damper

    assembly, do not worry. The oil in that tube will drain into the inner leg and can

    be poured out of that leg. The press fit or the "squeeze" of the o-ring between

    the end cap and the tube may be too loose. This will require replacing the o-ring

    in the end cap.

    11. Absolute forks: Turn the adjuster counter-clockwise until the damper is the

    fully open position. Using a 2mm allen remove the screw holding the knob on,turn the screw counter-clockwise to remove. Be cautious of the detent balls and

    springs under the knob as they are very small and easily lost.

    12. Remove the detent balls and springs from the top of the assembly.

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    13. Using a 24mm socket, remove the Absolute compression assembly from the

    fork leg. As you pull the piston out of the damper body be cautious not to spill th

    oil. Once the Absolute assembly is removed, pour the oil in the damper body ou

    and dispose of it properly. Stroke the rebound shaft once or twice while doing

    this to ensure that all of the oil is removed. Continue to step 17 Warning: If

    the cartridge tube becomes dislodged as you remove the CompressionDamper assembly, do not worry. The oil in that tube will drain into the

    inner leg and can be poured out of that leg. The press fit or the "squeeze"

    of the o-ring between the end cap and the tube may be too loose. This will

    require replacing the o-ring in the end cap.

    14. RCT Lock- out Forks: Using a 2mm allen remove the screw holding the

    cable barrel on, turn the screw counter-clockwise to remove. Be cautious of the

    return spring and cover on the bottom of the knob.

    15. Next remove the cable stop clamp by loosening the clamp bolt using a 2mm

    Allen wrench, then just lift the clamp off of the Lock-out assembly.

    16. Using a 24mm socket, remove the Lock-out compression assembly from the

    fork leg. As you pull the piston out of the damper body be cautious not to spill th

    oil. Once the Absolute assembly is removed, pour the oil in the damper body ou

    and dispose of it properly. Stroke the rebound shaft once or twice while doing

    this to ensure that all of the oil is removed.

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    17. Invert the fork, Using a 15mm wrench remove the rebound end cap by

    turning it counter-clockwise. This will remove the rebound assembly and thecartridge body.

    18. Separate the cartridge body from the rebound assembly by twisting the twopieces in opposite directions while pulling them apart.

    19. Inspect all o-rings, seals and piston glide rings, replace any that show signs

    of wear or damage. Be sure to check the o-ring on the inside of the rebound en

    cap that seals on the outside surface of the cartridge body. It is adviceable to

    only replace this o-ring if it is damaged as it extremely difficult to fully seat thereplacement and install the cartridge. If you are replacing the o-ring, lube it with

    semi-bath oil rather than grease as it will seat into the groove in the end cap

    better.

    20. Lube the oring on the inside of the end cap, the outside of the cartridge tube

    and the piston glide ring on the rebound assembly, using a small amout of shocfluid. These areas are pointed out in the photo to the right.

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    21. Slide the rebound assembly into the cartridge tube. To insert the cartridge

    tube into the endcap, place the opposite end of the cartridge tube against the

    edge of the workbench, place on hand on the cartridge tube and one hand on

    the end cap. While leaning your weight into the assemblies, twist the end cap in

    one direction and the tube in the opposite as if screwing the pieces together.

    There should be a sharp snap or click as the tube slides past the o-ring and

    seats into the end cap. if you don't hear the end cap seat there is a very good

    chance that the cartridge tube has cut the o-ring.

    22. Screw the rebound assembly and cartridge tube assembly into the bottom o

    the right leg. Torque the end cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m) using a 15mm wrench. Be

    care not to dislodge the cartridge tube from the end cap as it needs to remain

    fully seated to seal properly.

    23. Turn the fork upright. Fill the cartridge approximately 1/2 to 2/3 full of 5wt

    shock oil. Be careful not to spill fluid in the area between the inner leg and the

    cartridge. Place a shop towel over the top of the leg. Slowly stroke the rebound

    shaft about 1/2 way through its travel, this will get air out from under the reboun

    piston. Fully extend the rebound shaft.

    24. For all MRDForks: Fill the cartridge with shock fluid until the distance from

    the top of the inner leg to the top surface of the oil in the cartridge is 120mm (yo

    are measuring the distance between the 2 arrows). It is easiest to set this level

    using a syringe with a piece of tubing on the end to draw out the proper amount

    of fluid. For TPC forks proceed to the next step; Absolute forks continue to step

    28; RCT forks resume at Step 29

    25. For TPC Forks: lightly lubricate, with shock fluid, the orings on the outside

    and inside of the top cap. Carefully insert the TPC compression assembly to

    make sure that the cartridge body is not knocked off center. Using a 20mm

    socket, torque the top cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m).

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    26. Insert the 2 detent springs and balls into the holes on the top cap.

    27. Using a 1.5mm Allen wrench screw the TPC knob on to the compression

    assembly. Be careful when installing the knob so that you don't dislodge the

    detent balls. Proceed to step 34 to finish the service.

    28. For Absolute forks: Lube the o-rings on the inside and the outside of the

    top cap with shock fluid. Also be sure to lube the o-ring on the piston. Carefullyinsert the Absolute compression assembly to make sure that the cartridge body

    is not knocked off center. Using a 24mm socket, torque the top cap to 80inlbs

    (9.0N-m).

    29. Insert the 2 detent springs and balls into two holes opposite to each other othe top cap.

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    28. Using a 2mm Allen wrench screw the knob and Absolute detent plate on to

    the compression assembly. Be careful when installing the knob so that you dondislodge the detent balls. Proceed to step 34 to finish the service.

    29. For RCT Forks: lightly lubricate, with shock fluid, the orings on the outside

    and inside of the top cap. Carefully insert the TPC compression assembly tomake sure that the cartridge body is not knocked off center. Using a 24mm

    socket, torque the top cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m).

    30. Install clamp w/ cable adjuster pointing to the front of the fork.

    31. Turn cable spool to close the lockout, making sure that it functions properly

    Clock the spool so the cable anchor is close but doesnt interfere with the cable

    adjuster on the clamp.

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    32. Turn spool counter clockwise about 180 degrees from the locked out

    position. Remove Spool and install the return spring in the spool.

    33. Install spool on lock-out in the position from the end of step 32. The return

    spring goes in whichever of the holes in the top cap that it lines up best with.

    Proceed to step 34 to finish the service.

    34. Extend the compression rod and the rebound shaft fully, check to see if the

    face seal on the rebound shaft and the o-ring on the compression rod are

    damaged. If so replace them, otherwise it is OK to reuse them.

    35. Slide the casting on to the stanchions being careful not to pinch the lip on th

    dust seals. Once the seals are on the legs, slide the legs about 3/4 of the way

    down.

    36. Hold the fork at approximately a 45 degree angle with the drop outs up.

    Using a squeeze bottle or syringe put 16cc (16ml) of Semi Bath (5w40 syntheticoil) into each leg of the fork. Be careful that the oil is not poured into the end of

    the rebound shaft or the air valve on the end of the compression rod. After the

    Semi Bath is in each leg, slide the casting down the rest of the way until the

    casting makes contact with the rebound shaft.

    Pinched

    Correct

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    37. Using the 7mm Allen, turn the rebound shaft counter-clockwise to screw the

    rebound assembly into the casting. Tighten it to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).

    Note:You may need to put a slight amount side pressure on the Allen wrench

    and pull out on the rebound shaft to get it to start in the casting. Warning: Do no

    overtighten the rebound damper assembly into the casting, it will cause damage

    to the sealing o-ring on the end of the shaft and cause the semi bath oil to leak

    out of the casting. It is recommended to use a torque wrench when tightening

    this assembly.

    38. Screw the detent assembly clockwise on to the portion of thread of the

    rebound shaft that protrudes out of the casting. Using a tool like the Park Tool

    Pin Spanner and the 7mm Allen wrench, tighten the Detent Housing in a

    clockwise direction while holding the rebound shaft stationary with the Allen

    wrench. Tighten the Detent Housing to 15-20inlbs (1.7-N-m).

    39. Insert a small spring into each of the holes on the detent assembly, apply a

    small amount of grease on top of the springs to hold the detent balls, and then

    place a detent ball on top of each spring.

    40. Place the blue rebound knob on the needle in the rebound assembly and

    attach it with the machine screw using the 1.5mm wrench. Tighten it to 5-8inlbs

    (.6-.9N-m)and be sure to use blue LocTite on the threads.

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    41. Install the 12mm nut that secures the compression rod in the left fork leg. If

    there is not a washer located under the 12mm nut, place a thin washer onto the

    exposed threaded shaft protruding through the casting before you reinstall the

    nut.Tighten it in a clockwise direction to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).

    42. Pressurize the main spring by turning your bike upside down, install the air

    pump on to the schrader valve and then inflate to the pressure that you normally

    use. Now, go have a great ride!urize the main spring back to the air pressure

    that you normally run and go have a great ride!

    Additional note: It is possible to change the compression damping systems (Absolute/TPC) between theMRD Forks. There are different length cartridge tubes required for the Absolute subassembly versus the TPC

    subassembly. So, in order to change from TPC to Absolute or vice versa, you also need the correct

    corresponding cartridge tube.

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    Technical Data

    2008 Fork Set Up Criteria

    Family Model Damping System Travel Oil LevelFactory Build

    Specs

    MM Inches MMSPV/IFP

    PSI

    AirSpring(PSI)

    R7 MRD TPC 80 4.7 120 N/A 70

    100 4.7 120 N/A 70

    MRD Absolute 80 4.7 120 N/A 70

    Minute MRD TPC 100 4.7 120 N/A 100

    130 4.7 120 N/A 100

    Absolute 100 4.7 120 N/A 100

    130 4.7 120 N/A 100

    ForkModel Seal Type

    Seal Partnumber

    Rebound

    DamperEnd

    Torque on Rebound

    Damper to secure inCasting

    08 R7 MRDOrange

    Doughnut 065807AluminumMachined 15-25inlbs (1.69 - 2.82Nm)

    08 MinuteMRD

    Thin WhiteNylon 067110

    AluminumMachined 15-25inlbs (1.69 - 2.82Nm)

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    2008 Manitou Fork Service Kit MatrixName R7 Minute

    Model R7 MRD Minute MRD

    Code M-850 M-851

    RG-

    850

    RG-

    851Travel (mm) 80 100 100 130

    Cartridge Damping Rebuild PartsCartridge Rebound Assy-TPC or Absolute A 83-3267 83-3283

    Cartridge Rebound Assy-CID A

    Cartridge TPC Assy A 83-3265 83-3281

    Cartridge Absolute Assy A 83-3266 83-3282

    Cartridge Body - TPC A83-

    326883-

    326983-

    326983-

    3284

    Cartridge Body - Absolute A83-

    327083-

    327183-

    327183-

    3285

    RCT Remote L/O Lever * A 83-3352 83-3352

    RCT Remote L/O Cable * A 83-3353 83-3353

    RCT Remote L/O Fork Clamp Spool/Spring * A 83-3354 83-3354

    Air Cap C83-

    327283-3343

    83-3286

    83-3287

    Air Spring Compensator C 83-3273 83-3273

    Crn/Str/Leg D

    ***Blk AL S/T(26") MRD83-3276

    83-3277

    83-3290

    83-3291

    Outer Leg Assy E

    STD Merida Green 98-23568

    STD Candy Red 83-3257

    STD Grey (Primer) 83-3256

    STD Gloss Black 98-23561

    NB, STD DO Gloss Black 83-3258

    NB, STD DO Carbon Clear Coated 98-23564NB, STD DO Grey Blue (Ocean Blue) 83-3292

    NB,STD DO Merida Green 98-23569

    NB, STD DO Candy Red 83-3260

    NB, STD DO Grey (Primer) 83-3259

    NB, Hex Axel Grey Blue (Ocean Blue) 83-3332

    Travel Adjust/ H

    Comp Rod/ H

    8083-

    3274

    10083-

    327583-3288

    13083-

    3289

    Bushing Kit E 85-5321 85-5964

    Knob Kit I 83-3279 83-3279

    Dust Seal Kit K 83-2443 85-5293

    O-Ring Kit K 83-3280 83-3293

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    Position Fitting (Internal/

    External) - Size Solution appliedFork Assembly Min Max Min Max

    Brake Post Ext. - 8mm (2 sided) 92 115 80 100

    Red Loctite

    (impreg. threads)End Cap

    (Spring & Damper) Ext. - 24mm Hex 92 115 80 100

    Greased

    (spring grease)

    Top Caps (Spring &

    Damper / Plastic

    Ext. - 20mm Hex /

    Ext. - 24mm Hex 52 63 45 55 NATop Caps (Spring &

    Damper / MetalExt. - 20mm Hex /Ext. - 24mm Hex 69 92 60 80 NA

    Drop out bolt

    (Spring side)

    Ext. - 11mm Hex /

    Ext. - 12mm Hex 52 63 45 55 NADrop out fitting

    (Damping side) Int. - 8mm Hex 15 29 13 25 NA

    Rebound -adjuster knob to -needle Int. - 2mm Hex 5 7 4 6

    Blue Loctite

    (CartridgeDampers Only)

    Triple Clamp

    lower crown Int. - 4mm Hex 58 81 50 70 Blue LoctiteTriple Clampupper crown Int. - 4mm Hex 115 127 100 110 Blue Loctite

    QRTA quick release

    screws Int. - 4mm Hex 35 46 30 40 Blue Loctite

    Std. thru Axle Clamp Screws Int. - 4mm Hex 35 46 30 40 Blue LoctiteStd. / QRTA

    Thru Axle bolt Int. - 6mm Hex

    Greased

    (spring grease)

    Sub Assembly

    Air valve core Ext. (?)mm (2 sided) 3 6 3 5 NARebound Assy.

    Piston Nut Ex. - 13mm Hex 14 17 12 15 Green LoctiteLO, Rem LO:

    Top Cap to Shaft

    Ext. - 24mm Hex to

    Ext. 10mm (2 sided) 52 63 45 55 Red LoctiteLO:

    Piston to Shaft

    Int. 6mm Hex to

    Ext. 10mm (2 sided) 46 58 40 50 Red LoctiteRem LO: Piston seat to Shaft

    bottom Custom fittings 46 58 40 50 Red LoctiteRem LO: Plunger-

    top to -bottom Custom fittings 6 12 5 10 Red LoctiteRem LO: Shaft -

    upper to -lower Custom fittings 52 63 45 55 Red Loctite

    Rem LO: End plugto Piston seat Custom fittings 6 12 5 10 Blue Loctite

    Hand Tight

    Fork Torque Specifications

    Torque (inlbs)Torque (Kg/Cm)

    CRITICAL!!!

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    Trouble Shooting Tips

    Symptom Cause Solution See Page #

    Air LossSchrader Valveleaks

    Tighten Valve core, replace bad partsas needed. 13 Sect.16

    Air Cap O-ring leaksMake sure O-ring is seated properly,replace parts as needed. 13 Sect.15

    Air Piston leaksCheck oil volume on top of piston,replace parts as needed. 13 - Sect.14

    Air Top Cap leaksCheck O-ring, tighten cap to properTorque, and replace parts as needed. 13 Sect.15

    Oil leaks from WiperSeals

    Seal not seatedproperly

    Remove Casting from Inner Legs,reinstall or replace seals 5 Sect.8

    Nicks or scratcheson inner legs

    Replace Crown/Steerer/Inner LegAssembly

    Too much Semi Bathoil

    Follow instructions for removal andinstallation of Outer Casting 4 Sect.9

    Wear

    Remove Casting from Inner Legs,

    reinstall or replace seals 4 Sect.9Oil leaks from bottom

    of CastingRebound dampershaft leaks Replace Rebound Damping assembly 20 Sect.17

    Rebound dampershaft O-ringdamaged

    Replace O-ring on threaded end ofRebound Damping assembly 24 Sect.34

    Compression RodBolt leaks

    Check O-ring on bolt to see if it isdamaged and then reinstall 26 Sect.41

    Lack of Travel Tight BushingsResize bushings or replace with newones if damaged

    Refer to2008 Fork

    ServiceManual

    Hydraulic lock out Replace Rebound Damping assembly See above

    Semi Bath oil volumeFollow instructions for removal andinstallation of Outer Casting See Above

    Damper oil volume Check oil level, Replace ReboundDamping assembly if needed See Above

    Fork alignmentVisually inspect fork, call HBG TechSupport Customer Service

    Fork Top outLoss of ReboundDamping Replace Rebound Damping assembly See AboveTop out springdamaged

    Inspect and replace Top out spring ifneeded. 11 Sect.15

    Damping oil volumenot correct

    Check oil level, Replace ReboundDamping assembly if needed See Above

    Fork Bottom out Too much SAGRefer to SAG Set up in Tuning sectionof Owners Manual

    Table 3Pg.27

    Bottom out Bumperdamaged

    Inspect and replace Bottom out Bumperif needed 11 Sect.15

    Damping oil volumenot correct

    Check oil level, Replace ReboundDamping assembly if needed See above

    Play in Fork Loose bushingsResize bushings or replace with newones if damaged See Above

    Loose CompressionRod bolt Tighten bolt to specified torque

    Loose Rebounddamping shaft Tighten Shaft to specified torque

    Loose press fittolerances

    Call HBG Tech Support CustomerService

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    Trouble Shooting Tips (cont.)

    Absolute DampingProblems Loss of function

    Check oil level, Replace AbsoluteDamping assembly if needed 21 Sect.24

    Noisy whenincreasing platform

    Check oil Level, contact HBG TechSupport 21 Sect.24

    RCT Lockout ProblemsVarious See Remote Lockout Section 19 - 24

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