Mountain Country Adventure Guide to Grand Teton and Yellowstone Region 2009

GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE REGION

FREE

101 Things To Do

Vacation ExcursionsBoating • Hiking • ClimbingBiking • Rodeo • FishingTrail Rides • Wildlife

Family FunMountain TownsNational ParksRegional Map

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2 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2009

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Copyright 2009 by Focus Produc-tions, Inc., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson,Wyoming, 83001. All rights re-served. No part of this publicationmay be reproduced in any formwithout written permission fromthe publishers.

Mountain Country AdventureGuide is a free visitor’s guidepublished annually in May anddistributed all summer at hun-dreds of locations throughoutJackson Hole, Cody, West Yellow-stone, Pinedale, Dubois, andother regional communities, andat information centers through-out the Greater Yellowstone area.

To receive a copy in the mail, send$5 to Mountain Country, P.O. Box1930, Jackson,Wyoming 83001.

Our Web site, focusproduc-tions.com, displays this magazineas well as the Jackson Hole DiningGuide and our winter traveler’sguide, the Jackson Hole Skier.

NATURE5 America’s National Parks50 National Bighorn Sheep Center49 Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center

TOWNS34 Jackson36 Cody39 Teton Village42 Victor & Driggs45 Pinedale48 West Yellowstone50 Dubois

MAPS & DIRECTORIES51 Lodging Directory52 Business Directory54 Greater Yellowstone Map

RECREATION5 101 Things To Do16 Fishing20 Rafting the Snake River21 Regional Boating Information22 Biking24 Community Pathways25 Hiking28 Climbing30 Horseback Riding32 Rodeos39 Jackson Hole Resort42 Grand Targhee Resort

MUSEUMS38 Buffalo Bill Historical Center47 Museum of the Mountain Man

Explore

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OntheCover:Hiking inGrandTetonNational Park

Contentspagephotos,clockwisefromtop left:Hiking in the Tetons; pasqueflowers; team roping at the rodeo;white-water rafting on the Snake;landing acutthroat trout ;rappellingtheGrandTeton

PublishersBobWoodall &WadeMcKoydba Focus Productions, Inc.

EditorsMike Calabrese,WadeMcKoy,

BobWoodall

Photo EditorEric Rohr

Art DirectorJanet Melvin

DistributionManagerJeff Leger

Advertising SalesJackson Hole & TetonValley

Nanci Montgomery, 307-699-1607Kyli Fox, 307-733-6995

WestYellowstoneJanet Melvin, 406-556-8655Cody,Dubois & PinedaleBobWoodall, 307-733-6995

MOUNTAIN COUNTRY

PhotosbyHen

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NATIONAL PARKSFirst, get in the gate.A single entrance fee gains

access to both Grand Teton National Park (GTNP)andYellowstoneNational Park (YNP).These entrancegates are not information booths, though, so be sureto visit the many great information centers found inour parks and gateway towns. The Greater Yellow-stoneEcosystem (GYE),the largest intact ecosystemin the lower 48 states, includes a dozen mountainranges along the Great Divide, the first and largestnational park and national forest, the farthest pointfrom a road outside Alaska, and, not surprisingly,wildlife galore.Slow down and watch for wildlife—Sometimescalled theAmerican Serengeti,YNP andGTNP arehome to bison, elk, deer, moose, grizzly and blackbear, wolves, mountain lion, wolverine, osprey, ea-gles, and a myriad of other small animals, too.Goearly in the morning and keep your eyes peeled.Lamar and Hayden valleys in YNP are sure bets forbison. Moose frequent willowed bottomlands. Becareful, though, and never approach or feedwildlife. For great results, take a wildlife tour withqualified guides.

Waterfalls—The 308-foot Lower Falls of the Yel-lowstone River is the granddaddy of themany road-side water features, but a hike can reveal the park’smore obscure, spectacular torrents. In the Tetonsthousands of siteseers trek toHidden Falls,which,

Vacation Adventuresin Mountain CountryRelax. That’s what vacations are all about. Soak in the sights. Flipthrough Mountain Country and check out the fun things to do in thisvast land. Utilize our wonderful visitor centers, some tourist attractionsthemselves. Local bookstores and libraries provide a great resource, too.

101THINGS TODO

The buffalo roam in Jackson

Hole among yellow flowers (ar-

rowleaf balsam root) and the

Grand Tetons.

The elusive pica inhabits mainly

alpine boulder fields.

A mother fox and her kit drew acrowd last summer in Jackson.

The western tanager, a favorite

of birdwatchers.

http://www.wildbynaturegallery.com

6 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY

ADVENTURE GUIDE 2009

for many,begins with a boat ride across Jenny Lake.

Smell the wild roses—Themountains are famousfor a profusion of wildflowers. Starting in late Mayand June, dazzling displays of color follow thesnowline into the mountains. Some are tiny, espe-cially the ones above timberline, so look closely.Old Faithful Inn—Of course the Old Faithful Geyseris on your must-see list, but don’t forget to go insidethe spectacular Old Faithful Inn. It’s over 100 yearsold and bathed in a rich history.

Ranger Programs—FromRangerAdventureHikestoFamilyCampfireEvenings to StarsOverYellowstone,these programs have something for the whole family.The park newspaper contains all the schedules.Get on the bus—Tired of having to watch the roadwhile everyone else gets to look for bears? ThenviewYellowstone from the perspective of early parkvisitors by touring in the luxury of a refurbished“Historic Yellow Bus.”

Photograph the sites—Digital, film, recorder,whatever.Everybody’s a pro out here. Get a long lens,too.Again,don’t ever approachwild animals!Theycan easily outrun people and simply aren’t as fond ofus as we are of them.

Passport to your national parks—A fun way totrack your lifetime travels across America, buy a“Passport Book”at the park visitor center.Each timeyou visit a park or monument (there are 390), takethe passport book to the Cancellation Station and getit stamped.

Road closures—Summer is construction seasonin the mountains. Expect delays on a number ofroads, including a major closure beginning August17 between Madison and Norris junctions in YNP.Plan accordingly.

EducationSchools—Take a seminar or tour offered by theTeton Science Schools or theYellowstoneAssociationInstitute. These nonprofit organizations offer in-depth field seminars taught by researchers, biolo-gists, and other experts.

Museums—Several outstanding regional and na-tionalmuseums augmentmany localmuseums,pro-viding insight intomountain country’s past. In Codyat the Buffalo Bill Historical Center (BBHC), TheGreater Yellowstone Adventure in the Draper Mu-seum of Natural History offers an expedition pass-port that you stamp at various points of interest. Goon an art hunt throughout the five museums of theBBHC to find hidden object details. Complete thesearch and receive a prize (pg. 38). Jackson’s Na-tional Museum ofWildlifeArt exhibits over 5,000works of art on wildlife and nature, many historic.The world-reknowned museum’s grounds andbuilding incorporate art both subtle and dramatic.Each community has a local museum, too, rich inhistory, quant and modest in setting.

Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center—Getskunked in Yellowstone, never spotting a wolf orbear? Well, don’t despair. Head to West Yellowstoneand say hello to Sam the grizzly or Lakuna the wolfat this spectacular viewing center (pg. 49).

Libraries—Books, music, movies, lectures, and

The Old Faithful Inn, recently refur-bished and 105 years old.

Soaring osprey hunting for fish.

Grizzly bear sow and cub create atraffic “bear jam.”

Jenny Lake, named after the Indianwife of trapper Richard "Beaver Dick"Leigh, was formed about 10,000years ago when Cascade Canyon’sglacier melted and left a 225-foot de-pression and terminal moraine.

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2009 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 7www. focusproduc t i ons . com

http://www.wildlifeexpeditions.org

color of just about every community in mountaincountry.Great havens for tired travelers and curiouskids,especially if the weather is a tad uncooperative.

Bookstores—Some with coffee, pastries, newspa-pers, wi-fi, but all with books!

CultureMusic festivals—A whole score of music awaitsmountain country travelers, including the 22ndAn-nual Yellowstone Jazz Festival with jazz perform-ances at various locations in Cody and Powell; theJackson Hole Cowboy Jubilee in September; theGrand Teton Music Festival in Jackson Hole; andGrand Targhee’s Bluegrass and Targhee Fest andmusic camps. Jackson’s Center for the Arts hosts anumber of music and dance concerts, stage presen-tations, a rock-and-roll camp, and art shows.

Art fairs—The great outdoors is inspirational, andwhat better way to celebrate it than at one of themany art fairs that punctuate the summer weekendsthroughout the area.

Antique shows—Always abargain tobe foundat themanyantique roadshowshosted inMountainCountry.

Classic car show—View or bid on vintage carsdisplayed at the Silver Collector Car Show and Auc-tion, July 4-5 in TetonVillage.

Early Iron and the Rod Run—Keep your eyespeeled for vintage and antique cars and pickupscruising“the strip”around Jackson Hole, June 12-13andWestYellowstone,Aug.7-9.The Model T Club ofAmerica rolls into Jackson for daily excursionsthrough the parks Aug. 31-Sept. 4. Parked on theVirginian lawn, the display is one to behold.Fall Arts Festival—Jackson’s runs through earlyfall, highlighted by the Jackson Hole Cowboy Ju-bileemusic and poetry roundup, September 11-14.Ranch tours, culinary events, and endless activities.

Gallery walks—Stroll through the many art gal-leries in these mountain towns. It’s free to look! Jointhe organized “walks” and get free food in the bar-gain!

Go shopping—Hey, it’s patriotic, helps the wholeeconomy,and is great therapy.The range of productsthat can be found is amazing. From carved bears toelk antler items to unique clothing.

Drive-in theaters—Not many of these left in theworld. The Spud Drive-in Theatre, just south ofDriggs, Idaho, is a trip back in time. Look for thegiant spud on the flatbed truck. Cody hosts its own,too, the Park Drive-in Theater.

Imax—The theater inWest Yellowstone shows spe-cial releases on the parks.

Film festivals and TGR World Premiere—Sep-tember 19,Teton Gravity Research premieres its lat-est ski flick. Fall film festivals include the JacksonHole Wildlife Film Festival, Teton Theater Frank’sFest, the Jackson Hole Film Institute’s offerings, andthe August Spud Fest, including live music, at theSpud Drive-in.

Walk around the town—Boardwalks and wide-open shop-lined streets from the oldWest are centralto every gateway town in Teton /Yellowstone country.Jackson’s town square is set off by elk-antler archwaysand ringed by boardwalks. Unique shops, eateries,

Mountain bikes and horses both take riders farinto the outback, where peace and quiet reign.

Moose calves stay close to Mom, especiallywhen only a few days old.

Steak cookouts, part of the dude ranch experi-ence, come with beef, chicken, and music.

8 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY



Grand Teton and Yellowstonenational parks support thou-sands of bison in variousherds throughout the GreaterYellowstone Ecosystem.

Sea kayakers slip throughJackson Lake, Mount Moranmajestic in the background.

Pasque flowers populate forestmeadows in early summer.

A remote river in Yellowstoneentices these young swimmerswith warm, thermal-fed wa-ters.

Free outdoor concerts high-light July 4th celebrations.

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10 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY


and galleries characterize Mountain Country towns.

Live theater—Family fun right in the heart oftowns like JacksonHole,WestYellowstone,and Cody,some even host dinner theater for eats and antics.

Go out to eat—An army runs on its stomach, andan army of tourists has countless dining opportuni-ties not available in many areas. Take advantage ofthe diverse gustatory offerings.

Fire department chicken fries andbarbecues—Throughout summer volunteer firedepartments throw fundraising chicken-fries andBBQs.All visitors are welcomed.A great way tomeetlocals and experience a sweet slice of American pie.

Dance to the music—Don’t just dance to themusic, dance to live music. Many bars and tavernsoffer nightly live music. Get out and kick up yourheels! Learn toWestern Swing: free lessons at 7:30on Thursday nights at Jackson’s Cowboy Bar andMonday nights at Jackson Lake Lodge in GTNP.Learn to Square Dance: anotherWestern tradition,master the dosido and allemande left on Tuesdaynights at the Rustic Pine Tavern in Dubois,Wyoming.Families welcome.Watch for info. in all our westerntowns.

Water, Water, EverywhereGo fish—Mountain country holds some of the bestfishing steams and lakes in the lower 48 states. Thearea abounds with fishing shops and guide services.Hire a guide or just get out and explore (pg. 16).

White-water rafting—The Snake,Yellowstone,andShoshone rivers sport miles of white-water action.Myriad commercial services are available, or rent araft and go get wet (pg. 20).

Scenic raft trips—Not into getting wet? Then howabout a sublime sunrise voyage in front of the GrandTetons?Watch a bald eagle soar or dive for breakfast.

Canoeing—Want to be a little more intimate withthe water? The possibilities are almost endless.Takethe family to String Lake in GTNP for a paddle oncrystal-clear mountain waters.

White-water kayaking—Toget really personal withthe river, there’s nothing like being in a kayak,splash-ing through rapids or surfing a wave for as long asyou can hold on.

Sea kayaking—Not just for the ocean, sea kayaksaremore stable than the white-water version,and area great way to explore lakes and steams.

Rubber Duckie—An inflatable kayak, these littlepersonal-watercraft allow for a fun romp downstretches of the Snake, Yellowstone, or Shoshonerivers. Rent a gaggle of them for a group or familyouting—no previous experience is necessary.

Pontoon boats—Rent the party-craft for an houror all day and ply the waters of Jackson Lake inGTNP.

Take a cruise—Scenic cruises depart from mari-nas on Jackson Lake and Jenny Lake in GTNP, andonYellowstone Lake inYNP.On Jackson Lake,break-fast and dinner cruises fill out the day’s menu.

Water slide and pool—Rained out or just want toget some exercise? Then head to the J.H.Rec.Center.Complete with lap pool, kids’ pool, Jacuzzi, steamroom, and three-story water slide. Take the whole

Covered wagons transportpatrons to a hearty chuck-wagon dinner and an enter-taining cowboy music show.

Clear, cold mountain wa-ters are ideal for trout andfishermen alike.

A short hike from theLawrence Rockefeller Pre-serve reveals the incrediblescenic vistas of Phelps Lake.

Mountain rivers provideample opportunities toshoot the rapids and infusepure joy into vacationers.

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Phelps Lake mirrors (from left)Mount Hunt, Prospector Peak, theApocalypse Couloir, and DeathCanyon.

Afternoon thunderstorms producedramatic visuals as well as poten-tial danger.

Calm mornings beckon balloonists.

Beartooth Mountains hikers oftenfind themselves above timberline.

The Inner-park Loop Road in GTNPis a top American thoroughfare.

Western theater entertains withprofessional talent.


http://www.jhplayhouse.com/

family. Supervised, adult-led day-adventure pro-grams for kids available, too.Ask about public swim-ming pools in all mountain country towns.

Swim alfresco—You’ll find a number of unique op-tions for outdoor swimming aroundmountain coun-try. In YNP, check out the Firehole River nearMadison Jct. or the Boiling River near Gardiner,where hot springs flow into the river (swimming inhot springs themselves is prohibited and dangerous).In GTNP, String Lake is an outstanding swimminghole, safe for the whole family. If you want it hot andin a commercial swimming pool, visit Granite HotSprings, south of Jackson.

Water ski—The water may be chilly, but the sum-mer sun provides warmth if youwant to try the otherskiing option. Jackson Lake in GTNP and FremontLake near Pinedale offer a number of possibilitiesfor these sports.

Sailing—Fremont Lake outside Pinedale, JacksonLake in GTNP, and Yellowstone Lake all have sail-boats in the docks and on the water.

Best dam views—Completed in 1910, the BuffaloBill Dam near Cody is the most impressive one thisside of the Hoover Dam. Stroll across the dam andpeer 350 feet into the canyon bottom.In GTNP,driveover the Jackson Lake Dam, gaze across the lake atthe Tetons, and marvel at the thundering waterschurning out of the spillways.

Get a LiftTram—The JacksonHoleAerial Tram is back!Aftertwo years of construction, the sleek,new $31millionred box is up and running.Ascend 4,139 feet abovethe valley floor into the alpine zone for a walk,or justto gaze into the mountains (pg. 39).

Chairlifts—Not only do these lifts get you up aboveit all for an impressive view of the scenery,but theyalso provide a quick access for hikers andmountainbikers. Both Snow King and Grand Targhee moun-tain resorts offer rides (pg. 42).

Tandem paragliding—From the top of the tram,sprout wings on a 20-minute tandem flight withJackson Hole Paragliding. Certified pilots with hun-dreds of hours flying in the Tetons are eager to in-troduce first-timers to the exhilarating experienceof tandem paragliding (pg. 39).

Balloon rides—Greet the morning by lofting intothe crisp mountain air under a colorful hot-air bal-loon.

Bungee-trampolining—Give your child the thrillof a trampoline with the lift and spring of bungeecords (pg. 39).

Alpine slide—Ride the chairlift up, then board asled for a journey down amountain slide that curvesand dips through the forest at Snow King.

Glider rides—Mountains create updrafts, and thatmeans good gliding.Check the Driggs airport for in-formation on glider rides.

The Great OutdoorsHiking—An almost endless supply of trails radiateinto themountains.The only limits are your legs andlonging.The views?You supply the adjectives (pg.25).

Camping—The great outdoors were made for

Stagecoach passengers at the Roosevelt Lodgetravel through time in Yellowstone.

The new Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, open for itsinaugural summer season, carries people to thesummit of 10,450-foot Rendezvous Mountain.

Colorful Native American dancers perform atthe Buffalo Bill Historical Center during thePlains Indian Powwow in June.

An artist renders Lamar Valley, “en plein air,” notan uncommon sight in America’s national parks.

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www. focusproduc t i ons . com 2009 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 13

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camping. Get away from the motor home and rough it!Cook out on an open fire and sleep under the stars.Noth-ing like it under the sun, of course.

Climb the Grand—Often listed in the 100 things to doin your life, and for a good reason! Its peak 7,000 feetabove the valley, topping the Grand is an attainable goalfor anyone in good physical condition and among theright companions.

Climbing lessons—If you’re going to climb the Grand,orsomething not quite as grand, you might want a few ofthese.Some of the world’s best guides and instructors livehere (pg. 28).

Mountain biking—Our trail systems are among the bestin the country (pg. 22).

Pathways—Walk, ride a bike, rollerblade. JacksonHole’spathway system rewards all users with a peaceful state ofmind (pg. 24).

Running, biking racesRunning a marathon—If you’re a runner on vacation,make running a race part of the fun. Quite a few townssponsor marathons and half-marathon races as part ofholiday events and fairs. In Jackson run up Snow KingMountain or a 4,139-foot Rendezvous Peak.

Enter a 24-hour relay—In the Cache-Teton Relay onAugust 15, 12-person teams start in Logan, Utah, runthrough four national forests along the historic OregonTrail and shoreline of the Blackfoot Reservoir, thenthrough Star Valley and finally along the Snake River tofinish at the foot of the Tetons.

Mountain bike races—No surprise to find plenty ofmountain bike races in the Rockies. Teton Village alonehosts four races, including a cycle-cross and the ultimatehill climb up 4,139 vertical feet to the top of RendezvousMountain.TheVictor/Driggs biking community hosts asmany.For local info. check in with bike shops throughoutMountain Country.

Road bike races—Oneof the few– andpossibly the best– is the LOTOJA (Logan to Jackson). This 206-mile com-petition attracts nearly 1,000 cyclists on September 12.

Tee TimeMini golf—Everyone can enjoy this one,without break-ing the bank,either! Cody,WestYellowstone, JacksonHole,andmore tucked away atmotels all overMountain Coun-try.

Frisbee golf—What a combo! Can you imagine it? Atboth JHMR and Grand Targhee (pg. 39 & 42).

Real golf—More golf courses than you can shake a stick(or a club) at! Jackson Hole sports three, Teton Valley ishome to a couple, and the loop from Cody toWestYellow-stone to Ashton, Idaho, to Jackson to Dubois,Wyoming,must hold a dozen more.Naturally, the prices range fromfamily to fortune.

Get WesternMountain man rendezvous—The Green River Ren-dezvous on July 12 in Pinedale,Wyoming, is a pageant thateducates visitors about the history of fur-trade era events.Rendezvous in Jackson,Alpine, andWest Yellowstone areopen to the public. Great places to find unique items. Or,outfit yourself and join in the fun!

Indian powwows—This is Indian country, too, so takein a traditional Powwow. The most prominent one is the

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28th Annual Plains Indian Powwow, June 20-21, inCody, at the BBHC. Indian dancers attempt to catchthe judges’ eyes with personal style, footwork fallingon the beat of the music, and beautifully crafteddance attire (pg. 36).

Chuckwagon dinners and shows—Ranging fromdinner under the Tetons at Dornan’s to polishedshows with cowboy musicians and theater in mostMountain Country towns.

Trail rides, pack trips, and horseback rides—You are in theWest after all, so what better way to ex-perience it than astride a horse! Head to the hills foran hour, a day, or even a week (pg. 30).

Wagon trains on Togwotee—Just like a pioneerof old, head out into the wilderness in a coveredwagon. Experience a campfire under spectacularWestern skies.

Stagecoach rides—In Jackson Hole, a short ridearound downtown Jackson is a fun activity for thekids. From Roosevelt Lodge in YNP, stagecoaches,replicas of those used in early park days, coursethrough fourmiles of sagebrush and flower-embroi-dered flats.

Cody Trolley Tours—A60-minute,22-mile tour ina comfortable red& green trolley.Narrators share thestory of world-famousWilliam F.“Buffalo Bill”Codywhile highlighting historical sites, scenic vistas, ge-ology, wildlife, and Old- and New-West attractions.

Dude ranches—The quintessentialWestern vaca-tion. From rustic to polished, these weeklong emer-sions into the lore of the Old West are the perfectfamily getaway.

Rodeo—TheOldWest rides into the arena nightly inCody and several times a week in Jackson andWestYellowstone. Rodeos are also an integral part of July4th celebrations throughout theWest (pg. 32).

Shootout—The legendary OldWest shootout is re-enacted nightly on the streets of Jackson and Cody.For real-action shooting, though, check out Cody’sWildWest Shootout competition in June. No blanksfor this event.

Visit a ghost town—Tour the abandoned gold-mining town of Kirwin in the mountains southwestof Meeteetse. Four-wheel drive recommended.

Cody’s Old Trail Town—One-of-a-kind buildingsfrom the past, including the hideout used by ButchCassidy and the Sundance Kid.Some real graves, too!

Mule Days—Don’t be stubborn, check out JakeClark’s Mule Days in Cody, June 17-20. Not just apack“ani-mule,”this event has amule parade, rodeo,and auction that highlight the abilities of the vener-able saddle mule.

Special EventsElk antler auction—Jackson’s is the King of theHeap,held in lateMay every year.A real down-homeWestern-town gathering and kickoff to spring inMountain Ccountry.

Farmers market—No reason to head to the megamarket for your fresh food.Watch for popular Farm-ers Markets throughout the area.

Fourth of July—Music, rodeos, community pic-nics, parades, foot races, and of course fireworks.

Wranglers herd in the riding stock,trusty horses for dudes to ride.

Locals dance the cowboy swing.

Stargazing into the darkWestern skiesreveals a mind-boggling display.

Beartooth Pass takes travelers on aspectacular tour to 10, 940 feet.

BobWoodallp

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14 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY


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PHOTOGRAPHY AND TEXT BY HENRY H. HOLDSWORTH | FOREWORD BY CHARLIE CRAIGHEAD

WILD by NATUREG A L L E R Y

Wildlife & Landscape Photographs byHenry H. Holdsworth

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What more can we say, check the local papers for com-plete lists of events.

County fairs—These are real community events outhere in theWest.Horses, cows,pigs, sheep, and the best-grown produce of locals as well as fiddle contests,magicshows, even carnival rides and stands complete withcorn dogs and cotton candy.

Scenic DrivesTeton Park Inner Loop—This road takes you as closeto themountains as you can get in a vehicle.For wildlife,come early, stay late.Watch the alpenglow at sunrise andthe shadows lengthen at sunset.

Beartooth Pass—Truly one of the most spectacular,not-to-be-missed drives inAmerica.BetweenRed Lodge,Montana, and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, the high-way switchbacks up the mountainside to above timber-line and the 10,940-foot summit.Along the way crashingwaterfalls, cold mountain streams and deep-blue alpinelakes dot the landscape, while jagged granite peaks jutinto the sky. The excursion passes from sub-alpine toalpine environments. Give yourself plenty of time, be-cause frequent stops are needed–and a snowball fight inJuly is required!

Chief Joseph Scenic Highway—Between Cody andthe Northeast Entrance of YNP, another switchbackingroad heads over Dead Indian Hill and into SunlightBasin. This wide and infrequently used highway is apleasure to travel along for its isolation and incrediblevistas.From the summit you can look deep into both themountains and the Clarks Fork River Canyon.

Wapiti Valley—Between the East Entrance of YNP andCody, this spectacular valley is a treat for the eyes. Themany strange, eroded rock formations look like, well,whatever your imagination can come upwith.Kids excelat this kind of travel creativity. Keep an eye out for theCookie Monster somewhere up there.

Elkhart Park—FromPinedale, the Fremont Lake Roadheads north out of town, crosses a glacial moraine, andthen climbs past the 10-mile-long Fremont Lake toElkhart Park. From this popular trailhead, views are af-forded deep into the Wind River Mountains and down2,000 feet to Fremont Lake.

Trail Lake Road—A short way east of Dubois, TrailLake Road heads south into the Wind River Mountainsand past three jewel-like lakes. Look for petroglyphs onthe large boulders along the way.At the end of the road,hike 3 miles to stunning Lake Louise.

Ashton to Victor, Idaho—This delightful rural roadundulates over the rolling hills of eastern Idaho throughfarmlands, the ever-present Teton Range looming mag-nificently in the distance.Best time to enjoy it is in late af-ternoon, heading toward the mountains.

Look Up at the StarsNow that night has fallen, don’t just hit the sack. Makesure you go out and look up! If you’re a city dweller, thisis an experience you shouldn’t miss. The Milky Waysweeps across the clear western sky in a blaze of lightand confirms the existence of real stars and astronomi-cal delights.—Mountain CountryAdventure Guide



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hy was it difficult to get people to talkabout summer or even early season fishing thisyear? Perhaps because addictive doses of pow-der snow kept distracting skiers and snowmo-bilers. The white stuff continued falling evenafter most regular ski-area seasons ended. Thisfinal flourish at winter’s end has regional an-glers smiling throughout most of Wyoming,Montana, and Idaho. The late snow surge anda moderately wet spring will keep rivers, lakes,and reservoirs comfortably full, thus indicat-ing a favorable 2009 fishing season.

Just as in 2008, those who took to the openrivers early this year were rewarded with excel-lent stream results. Jackson, Cody, EasternIdaho and Dubois areas attract casting addictsas soon as the milder periods of February andMarch arrive.

The extra snowpacks, though, can meanslightly longer lasting runoffs and later-than-normal lake ice-offs. Check before embark-ing on a backcountry trip to higher altitudesearlier than late June, to insure lake and riveraccesses are ready and to avoid the disap-pointment of greeting a frozen trail, lake, ora river in runoff.

Many superb trout rivers lie within an easyday’s drive of northwest Wyoming. It is possi-ble to base yourself in the Jackson, Cody,WestYellowstone or similar areas and explore andfish a variety of locations on day trips. Riverand stream levels vary because drainage runofftimetables differ. Higher-altitude lakes oftenare not free of ice until sometime in mid Junewhile lower-level and larger reservoirs wherethe wind aids in thawing might be ice-free inmid to late May. Targeting lakes during earlyriver runoff periods is a practical plan for an-glers to consider. Schedule hikes, backpacking,and pack trips accordingly.

National Park AccessThe dates of fishing seasons on various waters in

states surrounding Yellowstone National Park varyslightly.A majority of the waters are fishable by Memo-rial Day weekend.Yellowstone Park requires purchase ofa fishing permit, available from visitor stations.Yellow-stone as well as Grand Teton National Park also requirethe purchase of a boat permit (valid in both parks) notonly for sail and powerboats but also for float tubes andpontoon boats.Yellowstone entrances and ranger stationssell fishing permits and boat permits. Grand Teton boatpermits are available at the Moose Visitor Center and a A

llphotosbyWadeMcK

oyorBobWoodall

Crystal clear water makes spotting and casting to wary trout a visual treat.

by Paul Bruun

Greater Yellowstone’s watersprovide the best angling in the worldFISHING

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Wyoming fishing license is necessary in Grand Teton.

Trout-harvest ConceptsTrout seasons onWyoming’s Snake and South Fork of

the Snake in Idaho now include year-round fishing. Thetrout-harvest season in Wyoming runs from April 1through October 31 for cutthroat trout. Catch-and-release cutthroat fishing is permitted between November1 until March 31.

Idaho biologists have implemented an annual catch-and-release regulation on all cutthroat trout in the SouthFork of the Snake as well as a special limit on brown trout.This is an effort to protect native cutthroat strains fromgrowing rainbow trout intrusion and potential hybridiza-tion. Idaho regulations encourage unlimited and year-round harvest of rainbows to protect cutthroat spawning,especially on the upper South Fork. The concept is notwithout controversy.Some anglers and outfitters prefer torelease the rainbows they capture while others may electto keep a few.

Be PreparedVisitors focused on fishing should also be aware of

storms, insects,and bears.High-elevation weather condi-tions change rapidly. A sharp drop in temperature ac-companies fast-moving mountain storms that dispensechilling winds and possible combinations of rain,hail, orsnow. For insurance pack an extra fleece jacket or insu-lated vest to accompany rainwear. Graphite rods attractlightning. Cease casting during thunderstorms!

Biting insects are especially present in irrigated ranchlands and locales that harbor standing snowmelt duringthe early season. Full-coverage clothing and repellent arehelpful.A currently dated aerosol pepper-spray dispensershould be handy during fishing/hiking/camping in bearcountry (just about everywhere). Remember that bearslike to fish, too.

Regional Fishing DestinationsJACKSON HOLE

In addition to its own excellent fisheries,great anglingdestinations surround Jackson. Many visitors base inJackson andmake day-fishing trips outside the valley.Por-tions of rivers like the Hoback, Salt, and Greys are openyear-round. After hard work and inspiration by the lateU.S. Senator Craig Thomas of Wyoming, his legacy willendure because Congress decreed that manymiles of theSnake River and its headwaters receive Wild and ScenicRiver status early in 2009. The Snake is world headquar-

ters to its own subspecies—a fine-spotted cutthroat trout—and is alsoWyoming’s largest Blue Ribbon River and apopular major attraction fished by most anglers.

Easily accessible lakes like Jackson, Jenny, Leigh, andGrassy are usually ice-free by mid- to late May and fishwell from shore until the warmer days of July arrive.Deep-water trolling becomes popular until mid- to late Sep-tember, when fish will again be found in shallower water.

Lake trout or mackinaw that can reach 50 pounds, aswell as cutthroat trout, thrive in these deep lakes. Lewisand Shoshone lakes inside the South Entrance of Yellow-stone are excellent lake and brown trout fisheries that an-glers can access any time,from the end of May (depending

on weather/ice off) through the end of October.Once the Snake clears, the water is high and swift

throughout the summer until mid-September. A steepgradient makes wading challenging, so the Snake is bestfished by floating. The native cutthroat is exceptionallyenthusiastic about dry flies and also chases streamers,nymphs, and spinning lures. Grasshopper fly fishing inAugust and September is a cherished part of the Snake’sseasonal anthology.

Other favorite Jackson rivers more suited to wadingare the Hoback, Gros Ventre, and Buffalo, as well as Flat,Cottonwood, and Pacific creeks. The Hoback provides agiant stonefly hatch in early July.After it clears in July, the

Fishermen like dories for their maneuverability.

Snake River cutthroat trout require cold water.


Clear skies and water mark Snake River angling.

BeAware ofAquaticNuisance Species

The“It can’t happen here”mentality that has beenthe motto of remote western natural resource man-agers is over. Devastating effects of exotic mussels,grasses, snails,algae,diseases, fish,plants,and reptileson our natural resources becomes better documentedevery day.

Biohazard threats from quagga mussels that in-fected the Great Lakes from foreign cargo ship ballastwater are imminent to the Greater Yellowstone Area.These ruinous intruders pave lake bottoms and erad-icate native species by filtering all of the life-givingplankton from the water. Quaggas have already beendocumented in nearby states of Arizona, Colorado,and Utah.

State and federal wildlife managers are playingcatch-up to educate our nation of mobile recreationalusers and provide adequate cleaning stations for nui-sance species transporters such as boats, trailers,rafts, kayaks, and canoes.Wading boots, shoes, san-dals, fishing tackle, and other items such as anchors,bait wells, and engine-cooling systems must be ex-amined, cleaned, and dried before moving to a newwater course.

We implore you to please do your personal best bybecoming better informed and practice methods tostop the transfer and accidental importation of aquaticnuisance species to this great recreational area.


A large selection of flies is essential.


Buffalo fishes well into late September.Flat Creek in the National Elk Refuge is a challenging

fly-fishing-only spring creek-like stream that opens onAugust 1. An extensive section of this stream meandersthrough Jackson.

CODYThis EastYellowstone Entrance community named for

the famousWildWest personality offers a variety of lake,reservoir, and stream fishing.Cody anglers enjoy numer-ous insect hatches emerging from the North Fork of theShoshone. This popular river creates the productive Buf-falo Bill Reservoir and offers rainbows, cutthroats, andbrowns. Lake trout are also abundant in Buffalo Bill. Besure to noteWyoming G&F regs. forApril 1-July 1 spawn-ing closure on portions of river and reservoir.

For both rugged beauty and excellent fishing,Wyoming’s first federally proclaimed Wild & ScenicRiver, the Clark’s Fork of theYellowstone, is a short drivefrom Cody.

Located within easy hiking access to the ruggedBeartooth Highway (U.S. 212) are numerous wildernessfishing lakes.Get local fly shop recommendations to a va-riety of high lakes,where grayling, rainbow,cutthroat andbrook trout are available to fly and spin fishermen afterlate June.These lakes are excellent float-tube waters.Eastand West Newton Lakes, a few minutes’ drive outsideCody,are accessible trout opportunities as are Hogan andLuce Reservoirs, where a variety of fishing techniquesmay be employed.

The Lower Shoshone River right through Cody is anexcellent winter, spring, and late-summer fly fishery.

DUBOIS,WYOMINGNestled along theWindRiver in what is known as Fre-

mont County’s “banana belt,” the community of Duboisoffers a variety of small and large stream and lake fishingbeginning right downtown. The Wind River is a year-round trout fishery known for browns that attain braggin’lengths. Small-stream enthusiasts will love the scrappycutthroats in the Wiggins Fork not too far up the HorseCreek Road fromDubois and then a short ride on CountyRoad 506. Also off the Horse Creek Road is Bog Lake,where both rainbow trout and arctic grayling reside. Inthe historic Union Pass area,anglers can pursue fine spot-ted Snake River cutthroat in Lake of theWoods and alsoexperience Little Warm Springs Creek. Pelham Lake is

usually ice free by mid-June and is west of Dubois offWarm Springs Road and is known for trophy-sizeYellow-stone cutthroat.Contact the local tackle store for exact di-rections to these interesting area fisheries.

WEST YELLOWSTONESurrounding the West Entrance to Yellowstone Na-

tional Park, this area is the jumping-off point tomany leg-endary Western rivers, including the Madison, Henry’sFork, Yellowstone, Firehole, Gallatin, and more. The ea-gerly anticipated and widely acclaimed salmon fly hatchon the Lower Madison begins in late June and peaksaround the Fourth of July.

The Firehole, America’s most unusual trout river, isfed byYellowstone’s great geysers, fumaroles,and thermalsprings.A similar resident rainbow and brown trout pop-ulation also flourishes in the Madison in the park where

excellent mayfly and caddis hatches thrive until hopperfishing takes over inAugust.Bymid-September,spawningfish from downstream in Hebgen Lake begin to migrateinto the park and provide excitement until park fishingcloses in early November.

Hebgen Lake and its various arms offer some of thearea’s finest dry-fly fishing beginning inmid-July.Duringthe morning calm, trout locally termed “gulpers” cruisebetween surface blankets of tiny“Trico”mayflies, sippingconstantly.A little later, the Tricos are joined by larger Cal-libaetis mayflies (speckled spinners) as the trout partyhits high gear.

TheYellowstone River inside the park (with a few trib-utary exceptions) traditionally opens on July 15 to a flour-ish of caddis insect action. This is a truly superb fisheryfor largeYellowstone-strain cutthroat that are willing ris-ers for a variety of fly imitations. The river provides anexceptional range of catch-and-release fishing opportu-nities. Numerous insect types are present and enjoyable towatch as the daily trout menu constantly changes.

Yellowstone Lake offers a fine opportunity to pursueits native cutthroat not only from boats and float tubesbut from the bank as well. Spin and fly fishermen enjoysuccess from many beaches and shores along adjacentpark roads and parking areas.

PINEDALEThis Old West ranching community lies 75 miles

south of JacksonHole.Situated adjacent to theWindRiverRange and squarely along the historic Oregon Trail, thisportion of Sublette County offers a variety of west-slopehiking and horse-packing trail entrances to the splendid

AllphotosbyWadeMcK

oyorBobWoodall

Fishermen prize their “secret” spots.

Quickly landing and releasing trout helps ensuretheir survival.

Can you find the fly?

Nothing tops the excitement of the strike.

Wind River Range and its endless trout-filled lake collec-tion. The Green and the New Fork rivers begin here andflow south,where they ultimately unite near “Wyoming’sIcebox,” Big Piney, currently in the throes of an energy-exploration boom.

High prairie subtly camouflages exceptional fishingfor browns and rainbows in both the Green and smallerNew Fork.Flowing from the Green River Lakes, the upperGreen features extensive public access areas and camp-grounds. Upstream from the Warren Bridge on U.S.189/191, under which the Green flows, are a dozen BLMaccess areas that offer fine wade fishing. Downstreammostly private land surrounds the Green but a few Gameand Fish public access points dot the river.Float fishing ispopular on both rivers beginning in early July when theyclear. Check local shops for current access information.

The Wyoming Game & Fish Dept. continues reintro-duction of once-native cutthroat subspecies to manyPinedale,Daniel, and Big Piney tributary streams as wellas the Green itself.

A special angling treat is found inMeadowLake belowPinedale in theWind River foothills near Boulder.Arcticgrayling is an unusual trout-like fish that wears an ex-tremely large dorsal fin highlightedwith delicate red/pur-ple spotting. Grayling willingly sip small flies and tinyspinning lures.Also vehicle-accessible are Soda andWil-low lakes, which provide excellent float-tube and small-boat angling opportunities.

SOUTHEASTERN IDAHOGiant stoneflies and other exceptional western aquatic

insect hatches historically highlight fishing experienceson the Henry’s and South Fork of the Snake River. Fed byBig Spring andHenry’s Lake Outlet, the Henry’s Fork nearLast Chance, Idaho, is renowned for its salmon fly hatch,which begins around Memorial Day. This river’s prolificinsect hatches attract trout lovers from all over the world

who enjoy challenging its selective rainbows.The South Fork, which begins in Wyoming and then

flows into Idaho above Palisades Reservoir, is the coun-try’s largest native-cutthroat fishery. Big browns swimthere too. Despite being such a sizable river, anglers fre-quently need delicate fishing skills to fool its abundantfish.Both rivers have local outfitters and fly shops ormaybe accessed by Jackson Hole outfitters.

Paul Bruunhas edited several newspapers during hiscareer, and writes the weekly “Outdoors” column in theJackson Hole News&Guide and contributes to outdoormagazines. He operates his own fly-fishing float-tripservice, founded the South Fork Skiff drift boat company,and served 12 years on the Jackson TownCouncil duringhis 36 years in Jackson.

The Wyoming Game & FishDepartment continuesreintroduction of once-nativecutthroat subspecies to manyPinedale, Daniel, and BigPiney tributary streams aswell as the Green itself.


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ur driver chatted cheerily to his white school busfull of nervous, sleepy-eyed rafters en route to a morningadventure of splashing and squealing.“Stay up late, highstepping to that good old cowboy music?”he asked.

Meeting characters like him, the office staff, and pro-fessional guides from outfitters around Jackson Hole isjust one of many reasons that rafting in the Greater Yel-lowstone region is a summer vacation must-do. They areunique personalities with one common denominator:they are all drawn to the mountain lifestyle.

The eight-mile white-water stretch of the Snake Riverjust south of the town of Jacksonmay offer the finest one-day introduction to rapids in the country. Visitors havemany choices for experiencing the rapids, ranging from aself-guided sit-on-top kayak to a sit-back-and-relax fullyguided ride.

Themist was rising from the valley as we gathered ona July morning for our rafting trip. It was cold.

“All aboard,” the boatman called to the parking lot.We piled on—three girls from Baltimore, a family

from Texas, an older couple from Syracuse, and severalsingles from suburbs around the country. I was the onlylocal but, like the rest of the group,a newbie to rafting theSnake River.

The head guide doled out paddles. I claimed front left,which means I controlled the tempo for the row of pad-dlers behind me… and got the wettest.

After emerging safe and adrenaline-pumped from thefirst rapid, I forgot themorning grogginess and started to

crave the roar of white water around each bend that prom-ised another stomach-dropping,hard-paddling,wet ride.I wanted more.

On the flatter sections in between rapids,we glimpsedbald eagles above and silent lodgepole pines holding poston rocky walls. At those moments, and those just beforeplunging my paddle into the next wave, time stood stilland I noticed the sun sparkle, the branches above quiver,the clouds blow by.

And, at each rock or turn, there was a story.“That there is called Vice President Rock,” the guide

said.“And that over there is called Bear Cave.Yep, a nap-ping cowboy had to wrestled a woke-up bear in that rockabout a hundred years ago.”

Some of the stories seemed a bit far-fetched, likethe one about the car on the river bottom, but beforewe had time to turn around and question our guide,he’d shout “Left Forward” and I’d plunge my paddleinto a rolling wave.

The splash-and-squeal trips may sound burly, butthey’re totally family friendly. If my younger sister hadbeen tall enough when she’d visited, I would have takenher.

For those who don’t want the responsibility of pad-dling, but still want the experience, the middle seats arefor you. Just hold on and enjoy the ride.

And don’t forget to smile at Big Kahuna Rapid. Pho-tographers are shooting frames just as the raft enters thegiant frothing hole at the end. Once you’re back in town

you can purchase the photos.Don’t want to get wet and wild? Try a scenic trip.This

float often starts in Grand Teton National Park on asparkly bit of the Snake River winding below the TetonRange.On thismellow float,you’ll sunbathe,eat,and enjoythe quiet while looking out for some of the region’s fa-mous fauna.

Moose, elk, deer, bison, pronghorn antelope, blackand—sometimes—even grizzly bear can all be seenalong the shore.

The relaxing upper stretch of braided, meanderingwater will take you past what feels like vast wilderness.Keep your eyes and ears open,as your guidewill share sto-ries of the valley’s history,point out bloomingwildflowers,and detail the geology of some of the youngestmountainsin our country, all while dense spruce and lodgepoleforests give way to cottonwoods and aspens.Youmay evenspot a river otter or beaver poking its head out of theSnake to watch you.

For the all-day adventurers, some outfitters offer afloat/white-water combo, where the morning is spentlolling down the upper portion of the Snake and the af-ternoon is spent yelping down rapids.Shuttle service, life-jackets, and paddles are also included, and you’ll oftenfind your driver waiting at the end passing out cold sand-wiches to drenched, smiling customers.

UntilLaurenM.Whaley findsameaningful,structured,day job, she'll continue her freelance career while seekingadventure and dancing in JacksonHole and beyond. W

adeMcK

oy/W

ildernessVentures(canoes);BobWoodall(whitew

ater)

by Lauren M. Whaley The Snake River’s Lunch Counter is one of the major rapids that never fails to splash and thrill.

Alpine white-water and scenic floattrips top vacation adventuresRAFTING

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Grand Teton National ParkBoating is restricted to non-motorized craft,except on Jackson and Jenny lakes,where

powerboats are allowed.But leave the jet skis home! Launches along the Snake River ac-cess a variety of waters, some dangerous.Life preservers and boat permits are required.Info: (307) 739-3399.Canoes,pontoon boats,and small powerboats can be rented at Sig-nal Mountain or Colter Bay marinas on Jackson Lake.Boaters will have to register theircraft at the MooseVisitors’ Center,where more information is available in the country’snewest and coolest visitors’ center. Naturally, a host of floating, fishing, kayaking, ca-noeing, sailboating, and scenic concessionaires operate by permit within the park, allresearched by going online at www.nps.gov/grte.

Bridger-Teton National ForestClass III and IV white water on the Snake River begins atWest Table and runs eight

miles through the Snake River Canyon.Self-registration,while not required, is availableatWest Table. Scenic float waters that also hold fish include the South Fork of the Snake.On theWeb: www.snakeriverfund.org. Info: (307) 734-6773.

Other rivers in the area offer everything from serene scenery to challenging rapids.On theWeb:www.fs.fed.us/r4/btnf.Everything you wanted to know about recreating onregional and national federal land.Or call (307) 739-5500 for information on running theBuffalo Fork,GrosVentre,Hoback, or Greys rivers.

Other lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east of Jackson (windsurfing, sailboats, paddlecraft); Palisades Reservoir, at Alpine Junction (power and sailboats).

Yellowstone National ParkIn Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, canoes, rowboats, kayaks, sailboats, and

windsurfers are allowed on Yellowstone and Lewis lakes, but only paddle boats onShoshone Lake. Again, leave the jet skis home! All other rivers and lakes are closed toboaters.Life preservers and permits are required.Boats can be rented at Bridge BayMa-rina. Online: www.nps.gov/yell. Info: (307) 344-7381.

West of YellowstoneWest of the park, the Madison River provides white water from Ennis Reservoir

through Bear Trap Canyon and idyllic floating to its confluence with the Missouri River.Info: (406) 683-8000.

Green River & Pinedale AreaThe Green River between Pinedale and Big Piney is primarily utilized for fishing.For

information, go to www.blm.gov/wy and pull up a cool map of every BLM field officeand district in the state. Just point and click.The short story: Fremont (skads of oppor-tunities and amenities here) andHalf Moon lakes,near Pinedale,allow paddle craft andpower and sailboats; and Green River Lakes, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only.

Cody & the North ForkIn Cody, river runners can catch Class III rapids on the North Fork of the Shoshone

River fromYellowstone Park to the reservoir,or combine placid water with Class IV rapidson themain Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town.River info: www.blm.gov/wyis the place to start. For hiking and camping info go to www.fs.fed.us/r2/shoshone/dis-tricts/windriver.htm or call (307) 527-6921.

Water skiing, fishing,andwindsurfing are enjoyed on the Buffalo Bill Reservoir,westof Cody. Info: (307) 587-9227 or online at www.bbdvc.com.

—Mountain CountryAdventure Guide

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Moonrise at sunset on Shoshone Lake in Yellowstone mesmerizes these lucky canoeists.

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he Greater Snow King Area (GSKA) andTeton Pass Area (TPA) trail systems are twooutdoor gold mines that lure local and visitingmountain bikers alike.Free to all users, the 100-plus miles of qualitysingle track are easilyaccessed and are con-tinually being im-proved. These trails,though, didn’t just ap-pear, like some late af-ternoon Augustthundershower.

For example, theGreater Snow KingArea has seen big im-provements over thepast eight years thanksto a partnership be-tween Friends of Pathways (FOP) and theUnited States Forest Service (USFS), grantmoney from Wyoming State Trails and TetonConservation District, and, perhaps most im-portantly, through volunteer labor totalingthousands of hours from individuals and serv-ice organizations.

Its mission statement,“Sustainable Trails,Respect for People, Respect for Land” cap-

tures the essence of what GSKA is striving forin the region and appears on trailhead kiosksand trail guides.Work is guided by a belief inthe importance of connecting people with

their public lands, fos-tering joint steward-ship in the care ofpublic lands, andworking to craft long-term solutions to ad-dress recreationimpacts and opportu-nities.

Initial GSKA effortsfocused on reconstruct-ing and repairing exist-ing trails such as Sinkor Swim, Putt-putt,West Game, and Josie’s

Ridge, and improving trailhead signing. Thiswork took three years and thousands of hoursof labor (listen up, volunteers!) to bring trailsand trailheads up to a quality standard. Oncemost of the trail systemwas sustainable, the funof adding connections began.

These trail connections were the first newones to be built on the Bridger-Teton NationalForest (BTNF) in decades. Countless hours of

by Chris Peck

AllphotosbyWadeMcK

oy

One service organizationof dedicated localmountain bikers, TheTeton Freedom Riders,took a critical role indesigning and buildingall the downhill-specificmountain bike trails inthe TPA.

Mountain bikers routinely climb into the high country.

Topping out on Ferrin’s Trail.

BIKINGM O U N T A I N

Trail systems flourish with partnershipbetween bike community and forest service

T


planning each new trail were followed by weeks of designand layout work. The result was over four miles of newtrail, including the Ferrin’s Trail, amajor extension on thepopular Putt-putt Trail, and a new trail in lower CacheCreek that reduces congestion on the first section of road.

Through all of these projects, the community hasworked hard to make this a world-class trail system.An increasing amount of funds and labor for the re-building of the GSKA trails is coming through dona-tions from locals. Mapping, trail signs, kiosks, trailguides, stream-bank restoration, and installation ofmutt-mitt stations have all benefited from communityinvolvement. The Bridger-Teton National Forest pro-vides the guidance, but it’s the community that buildsand maintains these trail systems.

Success in the Greater SnowKingArea trail system ac-tually inspired more efforts elsewhere in the valley. AsWyoming State Trails provided additional funding—andmore volunteers and groups came to the table—workbegan on the Teton Pass Area (TPA) adjacent to Wilson.This undertaking proved to be evenmore challenging thanthe GSKA system. Teton Pass trails have a long history ofhorseback and hiking use. Two decades ago, mountainbikes rode onto the scene. The resulting brew of conflict,near collisions, illegal trails, and unhappy recreationistsalong the paths demanded a change in themenu.The For-est Service organized publicmeetings to help craft a trail-system plan. And, unlike with the GSKA system, someseparate-use trails were determined to be essential to theoverall success of the TPA system.The network includes amix of mountain bike trails with technical features, spe-cific horse and hiking trails, and manymulti-use trails.

One service organization of dedicated localmountain

bikers, The Teton Freedom Riders, took a critical role indesigning and building all the downhill-specific moun-tain bike trails in the TPA. These descents include logdrops, dirt jumps, and rock rides, and, for more conser-vative riders, easy ways around those experts-only fea-tures. The Teton Freedom Riders continue loggingthousands of hours each summer buffing out the moun-

tain bike trails in the TPA and GSKA.Another group of volunteers,The Order of theArrow,

Boy Scouts of America (BSA), helped trim the TPA con-struction timetable drastically last summer, buildingnearly 10 miles of new single track in five days! The BSAselected the BTNF as its service project and committed650 trail workers for one week in July 2008.

This BTNF-BSA partnership became a top priorityin the Jackson Ranger District. The USFS and FOP hiredtrail designers and a layout crew,who placed 15,000 pinflags into the still-snowy ground. After the USFSsawyers cut the trail corridors and additional fundrais-ing filled the money gaps, the project was ready for theBoy Scouts’ arrival.

In perhaps the most amazing trail-building tour deforce ever witnessed, the five-mile-long Arrow Trail wascompleted in only three days! By theweek’s end, themore-difficult-to-build, seven-mile Ridge Trail was half done,too.Upon completion, it will be the crown jewel of the TPAtrail system.

These projects alone add over $650,000 dollars of networth to the forest.When the public enjoys these trails,those of us who put our hearts and souls into it feel theeffort truly worthwhile.

As work continues on these systems, good will andvolunteers are still needed. For more information, pleasecall 307-739-5428.

Trail maps are available on the Friends of Pathwayswebsite. Information can also be obtained from any localbike shop.

Chris Peck worked for the USFS/FOP as GSKA/TPATrails Director from 2003-2008. He is currently livingin New Zealand.

The Greater Snow King Area trail system providesmany miles of single-track riding.

http://www.hobacksports.com

Active transportation on a roll and a stroll in Jackson Hole

With the completion ofthe first section of the GrandTeton Pathways System,a newera of visitor access in JacksonHole is about to begin. An 8-mile pathway now connectsMoose and Jenny Lake visitorhubs, the first of a planned 41-mile system. The pathwaystarts in Moose at the CraigThomas Discovery VisitorCenter and at Dornan’s inMoose. Visitors will passthrough a special “honor sys-tem” pathway gate at theMoose park entry, and thenbicyclists and hikers can travelalong the Teton Park road cor-ridor on a separate, 10-footwide paved pathway all theway to the Jenny Lake Storeand Ranger office.

The Grand Teton pathwayproject was made possiblewith federal funds dedicatedby the U.S. Congress. UnitedStates Senator John Barrassoand the late Senator CraigThomas were both greatchampions for the pathway,which will set a new standardfor safe and accessible cyclingand walking in a major na-tional park.

Grand Teton NationalPark Superintendent MaryGibson Scott and the FederalLands Highway engineersmanaged the project well: the$4.4 million project was com-pleted a season early andwithin its budget. The high-quality construction by H-KContractors ensures that thepathway will be a long-lastingasset for the park and visitors.

Grand Teton National Park officials are still com-pleting final details before allowing visitors to start cy-cling the pathway,but they do expect to informally openthe trail in May or early June. Call first to be sure, 307-739-3399 at the Craig ThomasVisitor Center. The Parkplans an official grand-opening celebration sometimelater this summer.

The newGrandTetonpath is the latest addition to anactive pathway construction program that is transform-ing Jackson Hole into a legitimate world-class bicycle-touring destination.The valley now boasts over 40milesof high-quality paved pathways,and leaders are focusingon connecting the remaining missing sections and en-hancing the signage and information along the tails.

Word is getting out about the great cycling here, too.The League of American Bicyclists recently recognizedJackson Hole as a “Gold Bicycle Friendly Community,”one of only nine communities in the country to receivea Gold award.The award recognized the tremendous ac-complishment of the new pathway in Grand Teton, aswell as major enhancements to Teton Pass mountainbike and hiking trails.Also notedwere the incredible vol-unteer efforts of 1,000 Order of the Arrow Boy Scouts,who builtmiles of new trails on Teton Pass last summer.

For new visitors to Jackson Hole, one of the mostpopular pathways connects historicWilson at the baseof Teton Pass with the Aspens, Teton Village, andGrand Teton National Park’s Granite Creek entry. The

10miles of continuous pavedpathways are well separatedfrom the highways and affordusers gentle grades and sce-nic views.

Riders seeking morechallenge should head westfromWilson onto theMillen-nium Trail—near the Stage-coach Bar—and climb theOld Pass Road on a demand-ing 5-mile trip up to the8,431’ summit of Teton Pass.The Old Pass Road was in usefrom the early 1900s until1970, and is a classic switch-back ascent of a high-moun-tain pass like the famousclimbs of the Alps.

South of Jackson, path-ways connect to Game Creekalong the splendid Paul Mer-ritt and Von Gontard trails,and extend farther south viathe Henry’s Trail to HorseCreek. These paths providea great connection to thepopular Cache-Game moun-tain bike loop—riders canskip the shuttle and ride thepath back to town.Maps areavailable at local bike andsports shops.

As the GoldAward shows,cycling and hoofing it aroundthe Town of Jackson andTeton County is an increas-ingly viable option for tripsby locals and tourists alike.You’ll see an eclectic collec-tion of bikes on the trails ormaybe even meet Jackson’sMayor Mark Barron orCounty Commissioner BenEllis heading to their nextmeeting via their trusty bicy-cles. Using non-motorizedtransportation is becoming a

part of the community fabric.Bikes are also being em-ployed to help meet the town and county’s ‘10 x 10campaign’ to reducing its carbon footprint and energyusage 10% by 2010.

There is great hope for a connected regional path-way system in the near future as Jackson Hole, GrandTeton,and TetonValley all work to complete their path-ways. These non-motorized routes provide fun and sus-tainable ways to travel throughout the Tetons.

Tim Young is the executive Director of Friends ofPathways, the local nonprofit advocacy group sup-porting pathways, complete streets, and great trails inJackson Hole and the region.

AllphotosbyWadeMcK

oy


You’ll see aneclectic collection

of bikes on the trailsor maybe even meet

Jackson’s Mayor MarkBarron or County

Commissioner Ben Ellisheading to their next

meeting via theirtrusty bicycles.

Community Pathways

by TimYoung

Teton County’s Community Pathways system affords cyclists safe biking off highways.


love to walk,so forme, trails provide the best avenuesto the valley’s sparkling lakes, stunning vistas, and

wildlife. And while the prospects of walking around thejagged peaks of the Tetons can be daunting,many of thesehikes are anything but.

In choosing the best trail for your day and group,keepa few things in mind.Day hikes in this area range from 1to 21miles and trailheads sit at upwards of 6,200 feet.Trynot to bite off more than your group can chew. Jackson’sSearch and Rescue team is already overworked and un-derfunded.

Dogs aren’t allowed on hiking trails in Grand Tetonand Yellowstone national parks, but trails in the nationalforests surrounding Jackson Hole do allow them. To en-sure that they continue to be welcomed by fellow trailusers and land stewards, please keep dogs on leash orunder voice control,diligently clean up after them,and re-strain them around wildlife.

Although hiking seems fairly straightforward, someloose guidelines can help everyone maximize their en-joyment of popular paths. Good trail etiquette requiresyielding to hikers going uphill and to horseback riders.Staying on trails, rather than taking shortcuts, preventserosion and reduces our impact on the environment andwildlife. Being aware of your surroundings, both visually

and aurally, can not only embellish your experience withthe sounds of nature but might also save you from amountain lion attack, a marauding moose, or a collisionwith a mountain biker.

Now, enough of the rules already! Let’s get on thetrails.

Strolls in the Forest(4 miles or less)

Getting out to stretch your legs is easy in the CacheCreek area on the east side of Jackson.The Hagen Trail isan undemanding hike, and portions of it run parallel tothe creek. Look out, though: some sections are also pop-ular with mountain bikers.And the trail system is exten-sive, so check out the kiosk at the trailhead to weigh youroptions and find that quiet walk along the creek.

Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) offers some spec-tacular trails that reach a lake or overlook in less than fourmiles.The Granite Canyon access begins on the south endof the park near TetonVillage.A quick drive from the vil-lage lands hikers on a beautiful wooded trail wherewildlife often gathers in the cool shade along the creek inGranite Canyon.

A new series of trails recently opened to the public inthe LSR Preserve, named after Laurance S. Rockefeller,who orchestrated the donation of an additional 1,106

by Lora BodmerSchoolroom Glacier—off the beaten path

Marshlands walkway near Phelps Lake

The best avenue to sparkling lakes,stunning vistas, and wildlifeHIKING

M O U N T A I N

I


acres to the park before he passed away in 2004. Findmore information about the area at the new Preserve Cen-ter, on the winding country lane known as the Moose-Wilson Road. These relatively easy trails lead from thepreserve to Phelps Lake and the Tetons.

Taggart Lake has a perfect loop trail, which makesit a perennial favorite. The well-maintained routeskirts through the glacial moraines at the base of theTeton Cathedral Group. At the halfway point, hikersreach Taggart Lake, an ideal spot for gazing up at themagnificent peaks.

Jenny Lake has been rated by some as themost beau-tiful place inAmerica.See it up close by walking along itsshores to Hidden Falls, or simply pay a modest fee andtake the boat shuttle across. From the boat dock, a shorthike toHidden Falls and Inspiration Point—a super high-way of families and even a few high-heeled stumblers dur-ing the height of summer—affords countless photo ops.To add distance and get away from the crowds, venturefrom Inspiration Point into Cascade Canyon as far as yourtime allows.

Just north of Jenny Lake a series of fairly flat trailswrap around String and Leigh lakes.Get a taste of the wet-lands, sand beaches,andmountain peaks in a walk underfourmiles.String Lake is a popular swimming area due toits shallow,warmer waters.“Warm,”however, is a relativeterm: many travelers might not use it to describe any ofthe snow-fed lakes or ponds residing at 6,300 feet.

Half- toWhole-day Excursions(4 to 9 miles)

While the next two hikes aren’t much longer thanthose previously described, they start on Teton Passaround 2,000 feet above the valley floor, making everymile a bit more strenuous.When the crowds head for thepark in mid-summer, the Ski Lake Trail remains peace-ful. The almost five-mile round-trip provides valley views

and a lake destination just begging for a picnic. Park atthe Phillips Canyon trailhead and start walking along thewell-marked trail system.

A little higher up at the top of the pass, a hiking trailheads south along the ridge. Enjoy ample wildflowersand panoramic views, with the ability to turn aroundat any point.

Opposite Teton Pass, on the east side of Jackson Holein the Gros Ventre mountain range, Goodwin Lakeawaits.A three-mile hike from the trailhead reveals thepeaceful,wooded lake. Sometimes its placid waters teemwith small brook trout. Stop here or, if you are feelinghardy, charge past the lake another mile-and-a-half tothe top of Jackson Peak.

In GTNP,combine the shorter Taggart Loop Trail withthe Bradley Lake Trail to add a few more miles and anextra lake to the adventure.Head out to Bradley and thencut over the hill to hike the switchbacks down to Taggartfor a trip of just over five miles.

A slightly longer, but flatter, alternative is the JennyLake Loop. The almost eight-mile hike follows the cir-cumference of Jenny Lake, with stunning views upCascade Canyon. Crowds will be found around the sec-tion from the south-lake parking area to the boatdock, but are sparse the rest of the way. Shave off someof the mileage by hopping on the Jenny Lake boat,which departs from the south-lake parking areathroughout the day.

Snow often lingers into summer on the highest alpine meadows.

Like turquoise gems, a profusion of bone-cold alpine lakes are set among the mountains.


Full-day Hikes(over 10 miles)

For the hardiest crews, those ready to get an early startand go for it,here are some full-day adventures.The Jack-son Hole Aerial Tram provides a high-altitude head startto several long hikes, but most of the well-marked hikesover 10 miles originate in GTNP.

The hike to Holly Lake starts by skirting String Lakebefore heading up Paintbrush Canyon. It climbs over2,500 feet to a Shangri-La of wildflowers and sparklingwater. The 12-mile-plus trek demands a hearty picniclunch and plenty of snacks and water.

The Lupine Meadows parking area is the starting

point for a few longer hikes with some serious vertical.Surprise and Amphitheater lakes sit high on the TetonRange at the foot of some classic rock-climbing routes.Atone point on the series of switchbacks leading up fromthe parking area, there is the option to turn off towardGarnet Canyon.The mouth of the canyon hosts a field ofboulders, but climbing through them is worth it for thepeaceful meadow resting at the base of the Middle andGrand Tetons.Black Bears are very common on this route,so remember tomake noise to let them know you’re there.Give all wild animals a comfortable distance and try notto startle them.

One of the most challenging, yet rewarding, hikesleads up Paintbrush Canyon, over the often snow-ladenPaintbrush Divide, down to Lake Solitude, and into Cas-cade Canyon.The hefty 20-mile loopmarches trekkers up4,000 vertical to the pass and then down through themel-low, creek-side Cascade Canyon Trail.Solitude Lake sits atthe halfway point, providing exactly what its name im-plies. It can be done in one day, but people often opt toget a camping permit and make it a two-day adventure.

After scaring away a few friends with the wrongchoice in day hikes, Lora Bodmer, owner of Jackson-based Deep Communications, learned that modera-tion is key to bringing loved ones back for visits yearafter year.

There are hundreds of hiking opportunities in JacksonHole.Local outdoor andbookstoresprovide volumes of trekking information to keep you busy for a few days—or a lifetime—in the Tetons.While most of the books employ Grand Teton in the title, all but one containhikes that go beyond the national park and into Jackson and the surroundingmountains.

Jackson Hole Hikesby Rebecca Woods, $16.95Woods’ three decades in Jackson Hole help to build what would be best described as an encyclopedia of localtrails.With well over 100 hikes spread across surrounding Jackson Hole and the park, this book could keepeven the most ambitious local high-stepping for years. In addition to detailed trail information, Jackson HoleHikes features basic wildlife and plant information and local history.

Day Hikes in Grand Tetonby Robert Stone, $11.95When I first moved to Jackson Hole, I didn’t have a clue where to start or friends to show the way.What I didhave was Stone’s book of day hikes. During the year, I worked my way through almost every one of his 72 rec-ommendations, never getting lost. It is basic, but provides just what a hiker needs: maps, directions, and dis-tances in a fairly compact package.

Grand Teton Short Hikesby Carl Schreier, $3.95In addition to a much more extensive volume on hiking the Tetons, Schreier publishes a pocketsize, big-valueversion filled with shorter hikes. It has a small sampling of half- to whole-day hikes in the park and aroundJackson Hole.

A Falcon Guide: Best Easy Day Hikes Grand Tetonby Bill Schneider, $7.95If your hiking will be contained within the national park, this pocketsize, straightforward book is a solid choice.It is in the familiar Falcon Guide format and includes a limited selection of hikes,but still more than anyone couldcover in a week.

Day Hikes and Short Walks of Grand Teton National Parkby Charlie Craighead, photos by Henry H. Holdsworth, $4.95This guide selects the best short hikes and easy walks from the over 250miles of trails that wind through GrandTeton National Park and includes maps, hiking tips, scenic highlights, and natural history notes of the trails. Itworks well for those who may only have a day or want to explore several different places over a week.

Best of Grand Teton National Parkby Charlie Craighead, photos by Henry H. Holdsworth, $4.95This guide presents the park’s best natural features, activities, and sights as selected by the experts. From bestbets to see moose to the best places to go on a rainy day, this guide features the wildlife,wildflowers,hikes,his-tory, scenic drives, and classic photo spots you don’t want to miss. —Lora Bodmer

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o one ever askedmewhy I played football or base-ball. Those are normal enough pursuits for Americans,and they need no explanation.But when I fell in love withclimbing, I was asked the question continually.

At first I’d stammer,attempting answers. I even tossedoff George Mallory’s celebrated “Because it’s there” line,but never really believed it. It just broke the seriousnessof the question and covered for my lack of a quick, defin-itive answer.

In fact, when I first heard the question, I never reallyknew where to start. Climbing is a simple game, but oneplayedout ona complex fieldwithno spectators.Maybe thatsums upwhat concerns the people who ask the question.

It is a simple game, because the only rule is to get upthe route.No governing committee publishes a rule bookwith yearly updates.No officials observe the event and re-ward or penalize participants. No medals or trophies aregiven, and no one sees the greatest athletic feat of theclimbers, except the climber and one or two friends.

Yet, it is perhaps these same traits that make climb-ing appeal to the people who devote time, energy, andmoney to the sport.

After I tried answering the“why”question a few times,I decided I should write an essay explaining my motives.Then, when confronted with the question, I could handout a copy of my essay, or at least summarize the ideas Ihad developed. I tried writing it. The result was an ava-

by Steve Gardiner

AllphotosbyWadeMcK

oy/ WW

iillddeerrnneessss VVeennttuurreess

Rappelling allows climbers to quickly descend extreme pitches.

Approach hikes in the Tetons are long, spectacular, and sometimes cross glacial remnants.

Why do they climb? Musing from mountaineersCLIMBING

M O U N T A I N

N

www. focusproduc t i ons . com 2009 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GU IDE 29

lanche of words that ended up as rubble in the valley ofthe garbage can. I couldn’t get it right and, in the end, noone ever saw the essay.

I decided that the answer was bigger than an essay,maybe bigger than me, so I started asking the questionmyself. I posed the question to some of the best climbersin America and Europe, and each time I asked, “Why doyou climb?” I got different and interesting answers.

For example, Scott Heywood of Sheridan, Wyoming,said, “You make conscious decisions to take a chance, andwhen you take that chance you take control of your life,and when you take control of your life it has lots of bene-fits for you. It’s confronting your fears head on. It’s con-fronting a lot of human fear, fear of death, fear of falling;

confronting things like laziness, inertia, and being totallyresponsible for yourself, which is uncommon in our worldtoday, and I think that’s why I like it. It’s immediate grat-ification. It gives you a sense of self-worth. It may be an il-lusion, but it’s an important illusion.”

While many of the people I talked with discussed theexcellent physical training that climbing affords, Chris

Bonnington, who climbed Everest and is one of England’sfinest climbers, talked about how climbing affects onementally. He said, “One of the features of climbing is theintensity of concentration it exacts. In its basic form, ifyou are poised on a rock wall a hundred feet above theground, all other thoughts and problems are engulfed bythe need for absolute concentration. There is no room foranything other than the problem of staying in contactwith the rock and negotiating the next few moves. In thisrespect, climbing offers an escape, or perhaps it would bebetter to describe it as a relaxation, from everyday wor-ries of human relationships, money, or jobs. This relax-ation lasts for longer than just those moments when youare actually climbing and life is in jeopardy.”

Some believe that climbing can take people beyondthe physical and mental to the philo-sophical. Jackson Hole’s own GlennExum, who died in 2000, once said, “Ihave loved climbing, and the reason isthat if you are up there and having abeautiful day and a few cumulus cloudsare sprinkled around and everyone ismoving and handling the rope rightand the air is clear and you can see for-ever, well, I think that is really almostan unmatchable experience. It is al-most sacred.”

For some climbers, like Jim Bridwellof California, climbing is art. “It is likegymnastics, dancing, painting—youhave the rock as a canvas and you expressyour idea in the route. That’s been my at-titude towards climbing. It’s a chance todo something new and creative andbeautiful. If it is clean, beautiful rock anda line that stands out as pure—good,consistent, hard climbing all the way,good quality moves, consistent in its na-ture and texture—then it has somethingto say.”

In the end, I guess I have found thatthe quick, definitive answer I was tryingto find so long ago just doesn’t exist.Climbing affects people deeply, passion-

ately. I think climbers know why they climb while they aredoing it, but the real challenge is trying to transformhuman motivation into words. Why climb mountains?Perhaps there isn’t a good answer, or perhaps there aremany good answers.

Steve Gardiner teaches high school English and jour-nalism in Billings, Montana, and was named MontanaTeacher of the Year in 2008. Why I Climb is one of his fourbooks, and he has written over 550 articles for variousnewspapers and magazines.

Broadway, a ledge on the Grand that ends in the exposed step onto the next ridge pitch.

A guide climbs the Golden Staircase pitch on the Grand Teton.

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“One of the features ofclimbing is the intensity ofconcentration it exacts. In itsbasic form, if you are poisedon a rock wall a hundred feetabove the ground, all otherthoughts and problems areengulfed by the need forabsolute concentration.”

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30 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GU IDE 2009

here is west, and there is The West. Nota direction, but a place steeped in history andfull of icons and symbols. And the one iconepitomizing the West is the cowboy astride hishorse, riding into the sunset. If you’re in searchof that connection with the West, why not sad-dle up and go for a ride?

Although loping off into the horizon maynot be on your agenda, finding a horse tomount up and ride couldn’t be easier. No mat-ter where one travels, trail rides are available.And there are many ways to indulge oneself.The simplest is a two-hour ride. If that leavesyou hankering for more, consider half-day orfull-day rides. For the ultimate Western expe-rience, though, sign on for a multi-day packtrip or a full week at a dude ranch.

Never been on a horse? “Not a problem,”said Marilyn Dahle of Yellowstone Outfittersand Teton Village Trail Rides. “Seventy-fivepercent of our riders have never been on ahorse; it’s fun to take inexperienced peopleand see the big smiles on their faces and thesatisfaction when they learn to ride.” Yellow-stone Outfitters leads riders into the TetonWilderness, where spectacular views of theTetons unfold around every bend.

Wilderness areas are only accessible onfoot or horseback. So why ride a horse? “Thethrill of just being on the back of a horse,” saidDahle “is part of the Western adventure thatpeople are after.”

“Agreed,” noted Triangle C Dude Ranch’sCameron Garnick, whose untimely passingtwo years ago touched the lives of many in theregion. But that’s not all. “You can see muchmore,” he pointed out, “because you are nothaving to watch the trail. You can look aroundat the 360-degree view, enjoy the smell of thesage, the sounds of the forest, listen tostreams, and drink in the landscape—andphysical limitations can be overcome.” Travel-ing at 4-5 miles an hour, horses can cover lotsof territory, and in a short time riders can bedeep into the mountains. Plus, “you are doingit the way it was done by Indians, mountainmen, and cowboys,” said Garnick.

Now that you’re hankering to hit the trail,what’s next?

Well, dress the part. You don’t need to goout and dude yourself up in full cowboy re-galia, but a few items will make the ride moreenjoyable. Cowboy boots are best, but anyclosed-toed shoes are fine. Sandals, however,

ICONSof the

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Horseback Riding

TCowboys know you can lead a horse to water and sometimes it’ll drink.

Mountains, forests, and streams peacefully embrace horseback riders.

by Bob Woodall

Bob Wodall -Triangle C Ranch (this page and top facing); Wade McK

oy (facing page bottom)


are not recommended. Long pants and a hat are advisable,and because the weather can change rapidly here in thereal West, bring a raincoat. Also on the short list are in-sect repellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, water bottle, cam-era, and binoculars.

Next, decide how much time you really have for spend-ing in the saddle. Like most outfitters, Yellowstone Outfit-ters and Teton Village Trail Rides offer two-hour, half-day,and full-day trips. If that’s not enough, they also providethree- and six-day pack trips, as well as Orvis-endorsedfishing trips to the Yellowstone River. And if you want theWestern adventure without spending the whole time on ahorse, check out the overnight wagon train trips. Spendhalf of the trip on the wagon and the rest on horseback.Campfire cookouts come complete with a singing cowboyserenading campers by a fire under the star-filled sky.

If a couple days in the saddle have not reined in yourdesire for an Old West vacation, consider a stay at a duderanch, the ultimate Western experience. In the 1880s theterm “dude” was applied to dressed-up city slickers, espe-

cially to Easterners vacationing in the West and who af-fected elaborate “Wild West” getups as paying visitors at a“dude ranch.” While some places call themselves “guest”

ranches nowadays, seek out ones that havenot dropped the “dude” from their name:those will be the ranches offering the mostauthentic experience.

A proper dude ranch regales its guestswith the romance of the West for a fullweek. Dudes are pampered in a rustic set-ting with a full plate of activities, includingdaily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, West-ern sing-alongs, and rodeos. Ranches tai-lor their weeks for singles, couples,families, and groups.

You’re smack dab in the middle of TheWest, so take advantage of it! Whether it’sfor two hours or a whole week.

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THIS IS A FINAL PROOF!

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“You can look around at the360-degree view, enjoy thesmell of the sage, the sounds ofthe forest, listen to streams, anddrink in the landscape—andphysical limitations can beovercome.”

There’s nothing like a night under a full moonwith a campfire, music, and good friends.

Horses can take riders deep into the mountains.

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It is the most magical moment of the night, when amicrophone crackles to life and the inspiring lyrics of ournational anthem lift hearts around the arena as many singalong with the words that stir them so deeply everytime—“the land of the free and the home of the brave…”

Rodeo is so thoroughly American now (despite rootsin vaquero and ranching traditions of old California andMexico) that it’s mandatory to see the star-spangled ban-ner grasped in a rodeo queen’s hand as she tears aroundthe arena on her horse at full gallop, both showing off forappreciative crowds.

That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way—showingoff. From snaky bulls to snorting broncs, born to buckand born to run; from a glittering rhinestone-studdedbelt here to some turquoise fringed leather there. It’sabout showing off in a good way, because there’s nothingwrong with living to kick higher, run faster, ride longer,rope quicker.

For bull and bronc riders it’s about getting betterscores, keeping a tighter handle on their ride. For the bullsand broncs, it’s about putting on a show trying to launchcowboys into outer space.

When the sparkling gals gallop around on theirstretched-out horses,burning turns aroundthree barrels set in sand,it’s about speed andstyle. For the more taci-turn ropers, it’s the quickelegance of a rope sailingthrough the air to catcha steer or calf in a heart-beat or two.

Man, woman, or ani-mal, it’s a great way to bealive. There’s nothinglike it.

Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years except toget better. More money, better horses, meaner bulls, fastertimes… Chris LeDoux and Garth Brooks have taught us

through their country-western music about “eight-secondrides” and “the roar of a Sunday crowd,” and rodeo stillhas the ability to thrill us. And one thing that neverchanges about rodeo is people’s heartfelt desires to be

good, even great, atsomething they love.

The same can be saidof their horses, whetherbuckin’ broncs or mus-cled mounts: that goodfeeling of doing a job wellholds as true for the ani-mals as it does for themen and women whoride them and the rodeoclowns who risk life andlimb to entertain thecrowd. There’s pride at

stake, whether you’re moving on two legs or four. It’s anexcitement and adrenaline rush that keeps every creaturein that arena on its best—which in many cases is its

worst—behavior. It’s no surprise that people who love torodeo consider it an addiction.

Cody Nite RodeoCody is called the “Rodeo Capital of the World,” and

that isn’t stretching things, with talented cowboys andgirls coming from Peru, Australia, Canada and even Japanto test their skills in Stampede Park and vie for big cashand big buckles. And to have an exciting show every night,the rough stock has to buck.

Stock contractor Maury Tate said that’s what hishorses and bulls want to do. He brings 120-130 horses and120-150 bulls, which he was raising before getting theCody Nite Rodeo contract several years ago.

“They’re all born to buck,” he said. “It’s what they’rebred to do. It’s what their great-granddaddies and great-grandmas were bred to do. A lot of people think they’rewild, but they’re not. They just don’t get handled much ascolts. They’re bred to buck and they love to buck.”

He raises some bucking colts himself and also buysfrom certain breeders.

“It’s a whole industry within itself,” he said. “Some

Dust puffs underfoot as cowgirls and cowboys, little to large,

expectant crowds, and rodeo clowns shuffle their boots and

silently clutch hats to chests. The setting sun sends shafts of

warm light through the evening air and bathes everyone—rider,

roper, racer—in a golden glow and sharpens the silhouettes of

waiting horses and swaggering bulls.

by Joy Ufford

RODE� �Snaky Bulls & Snorting Broncs

Kids love the calf scramble, and eagerly chase thecritter, hoping to capture the ribbon on its tail.

Bull riders are a special breed of cowboy.

The team roping event showcases riding and roping skills.

32 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GU IDE 2009

Photos: Bob Wodall


people just raise bucking colts.”Tate knows what he’s looking for. “To me the perfect

scenario is when the horse looks really good, bucks reallyhard and makes a really good ride. The cowboy is not com-peting against the horse; the cowboy is competing withthe horse. You want him to jump out there and kick—thehigher and harder the better.”

Bucking bulls are an industry of their own as well,with registration programs, futurities, and classics. A cowwith good bucking blood can bring $25,000, even $50,000.

“If your cow’s bred the right way, her calves can bring$2,000 a round at six months old,” Tate explained.

From Oklahoma, Tate andfamily own “Mo” Betta ClothingCo., which came about after heasked his mother to design somewild Western shirts when hestarted rodeoing. He sold them offhis back, literally, at rodeos wherehe first rode bulls and then ropedcalves. Garth Brooks is a devotedcustomer and wears “Mo” Bettashirts at his concerts.

Tate and his family work theCody Nite Rodeo (almost 80 yearsold) from June 1-Aug. 31 at 8 p.m.,with the Professional Rodeo Cow-boy Association-sanctioned CodyStampede Rodeo (since 1937) July1-4. Then on July 5 at 6 p.m bullriders will take to the arena in a PRCA Prorodeo XtremeBulls event.

Nightly events include bareback and saddle broncs,calf and team roping, steer wrestling, break-away roping,barrel racing and bull riding, as well as a calf scramble forthe kids. Kids are also treated to trick-roping demonstra-tions, meeting bullfighters, getting their face painted byrodeo clowns and more. All seating is covered, with greatviews of the arena. Cody Nite Rodeo tickets are $16 foradults, $8 for kids 7-12. Cody Stampede tickets are $18.All can be reserved by calling 1.800.207.0744 or stoppingby Stampede Park, on the west side of Cody.

Jackson Hole RodeoIn Jackson, twice-weekly, the Teton County arena is a

hot destination with a hometown atmosphere for up-and-coming rough-stock riders, barrel racers and ropers, andfor the families, friends, and visitors who crowd thebleachers.

Jackson’s Sadie Wheeldon has barrel raced since shewas four, and considers the JH Rodeo a second home after

all the years she’s raced and, more recently, team-ropedthere and at other rodeos, all while helping her family runthe Mill Iron Ranch south of Jackson.

“The JH Rodeo is a great rodeo,” she said. “We grewthere and learned a lot there. I’ll never quit JH Rodeo. Allof us here are very lucky to have had it growing up; it givesyou that competitive edge.”

“It’s a thrill,” she said of barrel racing and team roping.“I love them both. It’s a speed thing, an adrenaline thing.Both are very addictive.”

Her goal is to make the National Finals Rodeo in LasVegas, not an unusual dream for someone whose entire

family has rodeo’d. “It’s been inthe family for so long.”

Saddle bronc rider BryonLozier from Daniel, Wyoming,about 70 miles south, got caughtup in JH Rodeo’s challenge at 14,with the same dream. For yearshe’s ridden at the JH Rodeo twicea week.

“It’s just an adrenaline rush,”Lozier said of climbing on abronc in the chute. “We went a lotof places, won some money…After awhile you kind of figureout if you’re going that way (tothe NFR) or not… You have arough ride and don’t know if youwant to get back on or not. Then

you get on a good one and want to do it all over again. Ifthe horse kicks a lot, bucking and jumping and you’respurring in time with him, it’s a good ride.”

JH Rodeo has something for everyone: the “calfscramble” pits four- to 12-year-olds against eachother to catch calves tagged with ribbons for prizes;women get to check out Wrangler-clad cowboys andguys check out, well, Wrangler-clad cowgirls. Theevents include barrel racing, calf roping, bull riding,saddle-bronc riding and bronc riding, with a round ofbull riding saved for last.

JH Rodeo starts Saturday, May 23, at 8 p.m. during OldWest Days, at the Teton County Fairgrounds. Wednesdayrodeos start June 3, and both nights offer family funthrough Labor Day weekend. Special rodeos are held dur-ing July Fourth and the Teton County Fair, which also hasa Little Buckaroo rodeo.

Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranchhand and a writer for Pinedale’s Sublette Examiner.

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Rodeo Schedule

�Cody, Wyoming

Cody Nite Rodeo– June-August, nightly at 8:00 p.m.

Cody Stampede–July 1, 2, 3 & 4 Dodge Xtreme Bulls Tour–July 5

Jackson, Wyoming JH Rodeo–Memorial Day through Labor Day,

Wednesday & Saturday at 8 p.m. Dubois, Wyoming

Every Friday June 5–August 28 at 8 p.m. Pinedale, Wyoming

During Green River Rendezvous weekend, Thursday – Saturday, July 9-12 at 7 p.m.

West Yellowstone, Montana Every Thursday-Saturday from

June 4-Aug 29 at 8 p.m.Gardiner, Montana

NRA Rodeo–June 19 & 20 at 8p.m. Big Timber, Montana

June 26 at 7 p.m. & June 27 at 6 p.m. Wilsall, Montana

June 6 at 6:30 p.m. & June 7 at 2 p.m. (30 miles north of Livingston, Montana,

on US Hwy 89)Red Lodge, Montana

Home of Champions Rodeo, July 2, 3 at 6 p.m. & July 4 at 3 p.m.

Livingston, Montana Livingston Roundup–July 2, 3, & 4 at 8 p.m.

Big Piney, Wyoming July 3 at 6 p.m., July 4 at 1 p.m.

Meeteetse, Wyoming Labor Day, September 7 at 1 p.m.

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ome with me, ‘pardner.’ Let’s get lost for a whiletogether,go back a few years.To a Jackson’s Hole of

years gone by.In fact, let’s go all the way back to 1914, the year Jack-

son Hole became a town.Four locals each deeded a pieceof land and thereby created what’s been called “TheSquare”ever since.

So let’s just start there. Take a cool drink from thefountain in the center of The Square and gaze up at theBud Boller bronze of the cowboy on the buckin’ bronc.Look familiar? That same rendition’s on ourWyoming li-cense plates as well as on the tails’ side of the Wyomingquarter.The steed is a famous rodeo horse named Steam-boat. Notice the cowboy“fanning”with his hat.Theywon’tlet cowboys

do that anymore, as it might induce a bucking bronc toturn in a desired direction. Say, towards a judge who’s ac-tually eyeballing the rider instead of cowgirls.

The tall trees above you are cottonwoods,Wyoming’s state tree. But look around at the four antlerarches on each corner. Nah, we didn’t club “those poordeer” to death. The elk antlers are shed every year, andmany were fed into the arches from 1953-1969. Everyyear, on the Saturday before Memorial Day, the east sideof the Square is the site of our annual elk antler auc-tion. Last year 10,669 pounds went for an average of$10.16 a pound, with bidders paying up to $76 perpound.Elk antler artistswill take‘emback home andmakechandeliers and

furniture out of those “horns,” or carve ‘em into beltbuckles, bolo ties. In 2007 the Rotary Club, workingwith the town of Jackson, replaced the arch across fromthe Cowboy Bar and plans to build a new arch everyother year. This year, the southeast corner, also knownas Shootout Corner, hit the auction block.

Throughout the summer, six evenings a week, there’san old-fashionedWestern shootout on that southeast cor-ner. In fact, this is the 54th anniversary year for this, thelongest-runningWestern shootout in the country. It startsat 6:15 p.m., but get there early and find a good place tostand.We hear they use blanks, although the local ceme-tery is in a pretty spot in case they foul up.

From the northeast corner,stroll downDeloney Streeta hundred yards. Look at that old red barn, the door onthe east side. Hollywood took that door away in 1980,hinged a fake one on so Clint Eastwood and Will Smith(not that Will Smith) could come crashing out in the bigfight scene of Any Which Way You Can. (Okay, watchclosely—they’re stunt doubles.) Some 30 feature filmshave been shot here in Jackson Hole.

So just what is Jackson Hole? William Sublette, ofmountain-man fame, named this 40-mile-long by 8-to-

Jackson, sitting nextto the National Elk R

efuge (right), is protected by SnowKing Mountain (left) and

East Gros Ventre Butte (center).


C by Cal Glover

So just what is Jackson Hole?William Sublette, of mountain-manfame, named this 40-mile-long by 8-to-15-mile-wide valley, or “hole,”after his partner, Davey Jackson,while trappin’ beaver, or “soft gold,”in these parts back in the early 1800s.

AllphotosbyWadeMcK

oyorBobWoodall

WYOMING• 83001JACKSON

All aboard the stagecoach for an Old West trip around the Town Square. Trailheads in town lead tohigher grounds.


15-mile-wide valley, or “hole,” after his partner, DaveyJackson,while trappin’beaver,or“soft gold,”in these partsback in the early 1800s.

Aquick tripback to thepresent.That bigbuilding abouta couple hundred yards to the north? That’s our rec. center.Visitors from out of town can use it, too. It sports athleticcourts,a lappool,kids’pool,Jacuzzi,sauna,steamroom,andthe coolest three-story water slide for kids of all ages.

Back to the Square with ya.Wander through some ofour art galleries,viewglimpses of ourWesternheritage cap-tured in paintings, sculp-tures, and photos. Now,it’s free to look, but youmight notice they do notgive these things away.

Have some fun. Finda local, ask,“Can you di-rect me to George Wash-ington Memorial Park?”Chances are you’ll get ablank stare. Most localsdon’t know it, but that isthe Square. Stand acrossfrom the Cowboy Bar.Look at the plaque bear-ing John Colter’s name.You’ve probably come toour valley because youlike the great outdoors.Do you like it enough todo what John Colter did?He left the Lewis andClark Expedition to be the first white man to venture intoour valley.Starting from theMissouri River,Private Coltertraveled 500 miles, by himself, in the late fall of 1807. Hewas the first white man to see the geysers of Yellowstone.Hard to say how he felt about them,since the earliest mapdepictsYellowstone as“Colter’s Hell.”

Some visitors will ask us what we do durin’ our longwinters? Well, we have skiing and snowboarding, snow-mobiling and dogsledding, but ya’ll might be interestedin knowing that we set a record in January of 1979,whenit got to 63 degrees. Ah, shoot, I done forgot to add thatlittle“–”thingy before the number.That makes it, um,95degrees…below freezing! Oh,and the last twowinters upat 9,000 feet we got over 600 and 500 inches of snow re-spectively.

Oh, all right, just one little joke from our ol’ pal JeffFoxworthy: “If you go outside in the winter, drill a two-foot hole in the ice, drop a sharp metal hook down thathole and stand there all day in sub-freezing temperatureswaiting for food to swim by and bite that sharp metalhook…you might live inWyoming!”

If you’re 21 or older, saunter on into the Cowboy Bar,which has been a landmark in our town since 1936. Nobar stools. That’s right, ya sit on saddles.Now, in the olddays, up until the late Fifties, these watering holes werealso called “The Joints.”There was gambling.Accordingto dude rancher Jack Huyler, in his book And That’s theWay It Was In Jackson’s Hole,“Whenever there was a civicproject in need of funds, we’d go to the ‘Joints’ for help;and we’d get it. That changed when riff-raff from Vegasmoved in. Jackson was written up in Fortune magazineas ‘the second toughest town in the United States afterButte,Montana.’”

Walk down the hallway leading to the Cowboy Steak-house beneath the bar. Black-and-white photos will take

you back to years gone by.And check out those spurs. Inthe early years of dude ranching, the rodeos were the bigsocial events of the summer,occurring on July Fourth, thefirst three days of August,and Labor DayWeekend.Thesedays they take place Wednesday and Saturday nightsthroughout summer. The funniest thing you’ve seen in along while will be the kids chasing the calf or the goat,grabbing for the elusive ribbon on its tail.The rodeo has-n’t changed much since dude ranching picked up in theTwenties and Thirties.

Let’s stay lost for a bitlonger,whaddya say? Let’smosey north. Those oldbrown buildings are orig-inal. Davies Reid wasJackson Drug for many ayear, featured homemadeice cream.Walk past it, to-ward the Teton Theater,opened in 1941.Just thinkback and imagine a Sat-urday summer day in1953, how the town folklooked as they lined up tosee the famous Western,Shane, also filmed in ourvalley.

That’s theAnvil Motelacross the street, on thecorner. Let’s say that in1917 you drove yourbuckboard wagon from

your ranch to town to get supplies. The Anvil was wherePop Deloney’s General Store stood.Your supplies came tomore than you had,and Popwasn’t around.Why,you’d justleave a note and settle up next time you came to town.That’s the way it was done.

(Now don’t do what Bill Webb, owner of Green RiverOutfitters, swears is a true story. These two gals were onthe phone with Bill, asking what they should bring.Ol’Billsaid, “Nuthin’ really...just your staples.” They showed upwith, you got it, a box of staples!)

Hey, it’s kinda fun hanging lost back here in the olddays of Jackson’s Hole. Let’s stay just a bit more. Turnaround and head back south, toward Snow King.That skiarea opened in 1939. In late July we have a running race tothe top of SnowKing,starting from the Square.Think youcould you beat TomBorschel’s 2004 record of 22:27?We’lllet you ski for free if you can do it!

Walk past the Cowboy, take a right.Have dinner at ortake a stroll through the Silver Dollar Dining Room in theWort Hotel. Lots of wonderful moments captured inblack-and-white pictures around the Western-themedroom. Built in 1941, The Wort almost burned down in1980, as shown in the pictures and news clips adorningthe hallway’s walls. Valley firemen, though, saved thewooden bar laden with its 2,032 silver dollars.

In fact,youmight just head in there.Walking throughnear 90 years of history, why you just mighta’ worked upa thirst. Or you might wanna grab a bite and stay lost fora while longer.

Come back when you’re ready,will ya?

Cal Glover conducts tours of Yellowstone and GrandTeton parks via Callowishus Park Touring Company(307) 413-5483. He’s penned three locally set novels, in-cluding A Grizzly Death in Yellowstone.

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he West’s history and lore, its landscape andhardy inhabitants draw visitors from all over the

world. Cody,Wyoming, is at the core of this appeal. It’s abig little town. Big in history, big in perspective, big instyle, big in things to do indoors and outdoors.

The town of nearly 9,000 takes its name from found-ing father William Frederick “Buffalo Bill” Cody—scout,marksman, hunter, Pony Express Rider,world-renownedshowman, and visionary. Cody saw in this northwesterncorner of Wyoming boundless opportunity and investedall that he was and all that he earned to make the regionflower.And flower it has, into a premier travel hub and va-cation spot for families, history buffs, and connoisseursof the great outdoors!

Yellowstone National Park, established in 1872 as theworld’s first national park, is amere 52-miles east of Cody.The road from Cody toYellowstone is known today as theBuffalo Bill Scenic Highway, and Teddy Roosevelt justifi-ably called it “the most scenic 50 miles in America.”Thatit is, with

guest ranches offering scenic trail rides through land-scape also perfect for hiking or photographing.Countlessunique rock formations along the byway wear historicnames such as “Holy City” and“OldWoman and Her Cabin.”

But a glance in any directionfrom Cody also reveals plenty ofother scenic drives originatingright from town.The Chief JosephScenic Highway and the incompa-rable Beartooth Pass, for example,or nearby towns such as historicMeeteese and Red Lodge, Powelland its Homesteader Museum,and Ralston, which celebrates anannual Rendezvous and MuleDays, are all accessed from Cody. And at the park’s eastgate sits Pahaska Teepee, where Buffalo Bill entertained

friends and dignitariesfrom around theworld.

Old Trail Town,resting right on Cody’soriginal town site,hearkens back to aclassic Western era.Twenty-six weather-scarred buildingstransported fromaround the Big HornBasin contain thou-sands of artifactsfrom Indian trap-pers, frontier set-tlers, and cowboyswho lived in the re-gion from 1879-

1901. Old Trail town also harbors historic gravesites,among them the final resting place for Jeremiah “LiverEating” Johnson. Johnson, of course, was brought to life

on the big screen byRobert Redford.Visit it online atw w w . m u s e u -moftheoldwest.org.

Cody’s summercalendar is itself al-most legendary,and from Junethrough September,no one’s date bookshould be empty.On the outskirts of

town, visitors and rodeoers alike gather for the world-fa-mous Cody Night Rodeo, where local and regional cow-pokes perform every night throughout June, July, andAugust. This is the real McCoy out here in the West. TheCody Stampede, the region’s true barnburner, this yearkicks off its 90th anniversary on July 1, runs through thenation’s July Fourth celebration, and features pro-rodeoriders in world-class competition. No wonder Cody isknown as the Rodeo Capital of the World! Go online tocodychamber.org for more info.

And speaking of ourAll-American holiday,a Cody 4thwill dazzle young and old like no other,with three paradesand a fabulous fireworks show at the close of four days ofpureWestern fun.

At the Buffalo Bill DamVisitor Center, six miles westof Cody, Buffalo Bill’s remarkable foresight is further re-vealed through his vision to bring water to the town andthe region. The center also recounts the dam’s construc-tion, and houses displays about the Big Horn Basin andsurrounding areas. Visitors can stroll across the 350-foot-

T


by Barbara Foote Colvert

Thenightly shootoutin front of Buffalo Bil

l’s IrmaHotel recalls legends of theOldW

est.

The Cody Stampede, the region’s

true barnburner, this year kicks off

its 90th anniversary on July 1, runs

through the nation’s July Fourth

celebration, and features pro-rodeo

riders in world-class competition.

HistoricphotocourtesyBuffaloBillDam

VisitorCenter;otherphotosbyWadeMcK

oyorBobWoodall

CODYWYOMING• 82414

The Plains Indian Powwow showcases Native American dancers.

Completed in 1910, the Buffalo Bill Dam rises350 feet from the canyon floor.

tall structure and peer over the edge.At the time of com-pletion in 1910, it was the tallest dam in the U.S.

But it’s Cody itself that really calls out to travelers. Inthe curve of Sheridan Avenue lies the Buffalo Bill Histor-ical Center,home to five separatemuseums encompassingmore than 300,000 square feet.

The wide streets of “Downtown Cody,” lined with gal-leries and shops carryingWestern art, photography, fur-niture, jewelry, clothing, keepsakes, and more, welcomethe tired, the hungry, and the curious.“Where’s the beef?”Cody’s range of fine restaurants will supply the answer,andwhet the appetite of even themost discerning palates.Cody is also home to Sierra Trading Post, the perfect placeto gear up for Cody adventures. A genuine log structurehouses this outlet,where clothing for outdoor adventuresof all kinds is proffered at unbelievably low prices. Don’tbelieve it? See for yourself online at sierratradingpost.com.

The historic IrmaHotel,built by Cody himself in 1902and named for his youngest daughter on the occasion ofher engagement, sits in the center of town. The famouscherry-wood bar is one of themost photographed sites inCody,a gift fromQueenVictoria to the famous showman.Outside the Irma, the Cody Gunfighters entertain visitors

nightly throughout the summer season, reenacting fa-mous gun battles and shootouts by Western charactersyouwill recognize.The showdown begins nightly at 6 p.m.

To enjoy a historic overview of the town, hop aboardthe Cody Trolley for a charming tour through Cody’s pastand present.This one-hour 22-mile tour conveys passen-gers through the heart of the West. Relax listening tomusic in Cody City Park during the free summer concertseries; book a trip on the Shoshone River for white-waterrafting, kayaking, or hire a fly-fishing guide; replenishyour gear for hiking,mountain biking, rock or ice climb-ing, or cross-country skiing.

Cody also boasts a state-of-the-art aquatic and sportscenter in case the great outdoors (or the trekkers them-

selves) need a break.For lodging in themany excellent bed and breakfasts,

hotels and motels, and for details of seasonal eventsthroughout the year, contact: www.codychamber.org orwww.yellowstonecountry.org

William Frederick Cody received the CongressionalMedal of Honor for bringing theWest to the world.Cometo Cody and see why!

Barbara Foote Colvert has worked for more than 30years as a graphic designer, journalist,writer,and editor,and has been an award-winning newspaper lifestyle ed-itor and columnist.Her books includeHarvest of Hope–Family Farming and Farming Families and Resolutions.

The spirit of Buffalo

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The Scout, a bronze sculpture, next to theBBHC, depicts Buffalo Bill Cody.


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et in historic Cody, Wyoming, the Buffalo BillHistorical Center (BBHC) invites visitors to em-

bark on a virtual expedition through theAmericanWest.With over 300,000 square feet of floor space on three lev-els, the center presents a breathtaking view of the Westwith an entire museum dedi-cated to each of five themes: thenatural wonders of the Yellow-stone region, the legend of Buf-falo Bill Cody, the living cultureof the Plains Indian, the fine artof Western masters, and themarvelous story of the evolu-tion of the firearm.

Highlights for 2009 includea special exhibition of paint-ings depicting Lewis andClark’s Corps of Discovery, ar-guably the most celebrated ex-ploration expedition in the history of the United States.One hundred paintings by Charles Fritz capture the spiritof the explorers, the explored, and the West’s gloriouslandscape.

The center’s newest wing, the DraperMuseumof Nat-ural History,portrays the natural world of the GreaterYel-lowstone region, while understanding the Westernenvironment sets the stage in the Buffalo Bill Museum fora fascinating look at the life and times ofWilliam F.“Buf-falo Bill”Cody.

The timeless beat of the powwow and the powerfulrecitation of stories handed down through the ages areamong the audio experiences awaiting visitors to thePlains Indian Museum.The use of audio-visual exhibitsin combination with one of the nation’s largest collec-tions of Native American art and artifacts has createdwhat Crow elder and historian Joe Medicine Crow

called a “living, breathing place.”The Whitney Gallery offers visions of the American

West through the eyes of its master painters and sculp-tors. Landscapes byAlbert Bierstadt and ThomasMoranshare space with paintings of the classicWest by Frederic

Remington,CharlesM.Russell,N.C. Wyeth, and W.H.D. Ko-erner. The Whitney is closeduntil June 21,2009,when it willreopen,newly configured to re-flect its 50th Anniversary.

Rounding out the BuffaloBill Historical Center’s perspec-tive, the Cody Firearms Mu-seum reveals insights into theimpact of the firearm on his-tory. The fine art of engravingand revolutionary advance-ments in engineering are

among the surprising elements of the story told with theworld’smost comprehensive collection of American arms,as well as European arms dating to the sixteenth century.

In addition to its five museums, the Buffalo Bill His-torical Center hosts the McCracken Research Library,which specializes in Buffalo Bill’sWildWest,Western artand artists, Plains Indian history and culture, firearmshistory and technology, the natural history of theGreater Yellowstone region, the history of YellowstonePark,Western folk music, and Cody area history.

Visitors may purchase reproductions of fineWesternart, jewelry,andNativeAmerican art at theHistorical Cen-ter’s museum store, Museum Selections. Admission isgood for two consecutive days and includes entry to allfivemuseums.Formore information call 307.587.4771 orvisit www.bbhc.org.

—Buffalo Bill Historical Center

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SThe Seasons of Life Gallery, in the Plains Indian Museum, brings to life stories of the manyNative American tribes.

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etonVillage’s JacksonHoleMountain Resortmaybe most famous for its steep and deep skiing, but

in summer, the surrounding valley overflows with wild-flowers, blue skies, and countless activities for the entirefamily.

With turnkey adventures and ready resources for eachactivity, “The Village” is making it increasingly easy tospend an entire day there exploring the mountains, din-ing, shopping, and sampling new activities before retir-ing to a cozy mountain room.The light is still bright andglowing at 8 p.m. during much of the summer, makingperfect days seem endless.

“We’re not Disney, but we do have the convenience ofpurchasingmultiple options in one go,and attractions forall ages,”saidAnna Olson, Jackson Hole Mountain ResortBrand Manager. The resort offers tickets good for differ-ent activities, like riding the new 100-passenger JacksonHole Aerial Tram, tandem-pararagliding rides, thebungee-trampoline, and nature hiking. “You pick andchoose,” she added.

The resort’s Nick Wilson’s Café, next to the tram,makes a great base camp.Guests can easily walk,drive,ortake public transportation—the START bus—to it fromrentals and hotels to embark upon a day of (or a summerof) discovery.Armed with an array of maps, guides, andequipment suggestions, the staff will help you create in-dividualized excursions for yourself, friends, and family.

AERIAL TRAMFor an overview, best to start at the top—the top of

Rendezvous Mountain that is. The new Jackson HoleAerial Tram is here. The updated red box started car-rying skiers to the top of Rendezvous Mountain in De-cember 2008.

The same aerial tram that whisks skiers and snow-boarders up 4,139 vertical feet during ski season also car-ries summer vacationers on a round-trip journey into thehigh alpine landscape of flowers and granite. The ridemight include spotting a moose, deer, or even the occa-sional black bear foraging on the mountainside.

The sleek cabins,which carry 100passengers in ski season,will be lim-ited to 60 people in the summer.Oneadvantage of the bigger cabin is thatnow a complete bus tour can boardthe tram all at once.

At the summit, take in the unri-valed 360-degree views of JacksonHole, the Snake River, and GrandTetonNational Park.Naturalist talksare at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. daily atCorbet’s Cabin Deck at the Tramsummit.

HIKINGFrom the top a variety of hik-

ing options tug at your boots.Wan-der around the 10,450-footsummit to witness incredible

views and take in the high-alpine tundra that aboundswith hardywildflowers and fascinating geological aspects,including fossils from the ancient oceans that once cov-ered Jackson Hole. Guided hikes are offered at 10:30 a.m.and 1:30 p.m.Cost: 1 activity ticket or $12.

You can also choose to hike down theMountain Trail,a 7.2-mile trek,or head off the backside into Grand TetonNational Park for a long day of hiking.

There are 468 species of plants within the resort’sboundaries, according to David Gonzales’ Jackson Hole:On a Grand Scale—more than enough to distract even themost disciplined hiker.

Watch the clock, though, and the climate. High-alti-tude weather changes quickly from sunshine to thunder-storms and vice versa, so pack a jacket, water, andsunscreen, even for a short walk.

Another popular option from the valley floor,hike upand ride the tram down for free.

SKI & SNOWBOARDINGAlthough all inbounds terrain will be closed, skiers

are welcome to ride the tram and ski their favorite out ofbounds locations for as long as the snow permits.

TANDEM PARAGLIDING FLIGHTSWhilemost people ride the tram back down,a few ad-

venturous souls fly down.Yep, you can sprout wings on a20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding.Their certified pilots have logged hundreds of hours fly-ing in the Tetons and are eager to introduce first-timers tothe unique experience of tandem paragliding.A runningstart to lift-off leads to the peaceful, exhilarating flight tothe valley floor.

BRIDGER GONDOLA, COULOIR RESTAURANT &“THE DECK” AT COULOIR

Now that the red box is back, the Bridger Gondola willoperate evenings only to transport diners to the CouloirRestaurant. At 9,095, the restaurant is nearly 3,000 feetabove the valley floor and provides a unique setting for


T by Lauren M. Whaley

Live music is a staplein Teton Village wat

ering holes.

TETON VILLAGE WYOMING• 83025

Rendezvous Mountain rises 4,139’ above Teton Village. Lush alpine meadows blossomwith Indian Paintbrush next to snow-fed streams.

evening cocktails or dinner.“Step off the Bridger Gondolaat 9,095 feet and walk into a contemporary and hip, newrestaurant,”said Olson.“The out-door ‘Deck’ is a great place totake in views of Corbet’s Couloir,the soaring heights of the Head-wall, and the incredible alpinesetting.”

Starting at 5:30 guests canenjoy a four-course, fixed-pricedinner,Thursday-Saturday, fromJune 18-27, then Wednesday-Sunday from July 1 to Labor Day.The restaurant can also bebooked for special events.

New this year, the‘Deck’outside the Couloir will be of-

fering a lounge experience at 9,000’, with appetizers,shared plates, fine wines and bar. Sundays play host to

“Sunset Sushi,” with live entertain-ment. The ‘Deck’ will be open July 4through Labor Day Weekend (Wed-Sun, 5:30-10 p.m., weather permit-ting). The gondola ride is free after5:30 to everyone.

MOUNTAIN BIKINGThe resort has a bike-trail system

that includes intermediate and ad-vanced riding, with miles of rollingsingle-track. Ride your own or rent amountain bike from Jackson Hole

Sports.Purchase a lift ticket at NickWilson’s Café to trans-port your bike up Teewinot chairlift.Ask a resort employeefor a trail map.

Those who want to get into tricks and jumpsshould check out the beginner terrain park on EaglesRest.This is great for kids and novice riders—and it’sfree.

For a leisurely ride without automobiles, travel theMoose-Wilson pathway north to Grand TetonNationalPark or south all the way toWilson.

TRAIL RIDESTo really getWesternwhile in JacksonHole,be sure

to saddle up and experience a trail ride. Stroll on overto the corrals on the east side of the Snake River Lodge,where you can head out on hourly trail rides on a qual-ity mountain horse, in the company of a real cowboywrangler.

DISC GOLFIf making things fly through the air rather than at-

taching wings to your-self sounds moreappealing, play nineholes of Frisbee golf onthe free course near thebase of the resort. Bringyour own discs or buythem at one of the re-sort’s many shops. Play-ing is free.

RENTALS ANDPURCHASESWith so many

places to recreate, Jack-son Hole Mountain Re-sort naturally includesan abundance of shopsthat rent gear.These in-clude Teton VillageSports, Jackson HoleSports, Jack DennisSports, and the Hole inthe Wall SnowboardShop.NickWilson’s sellsJackson Hole MountainResort logo apparel.

MOUNTAIN SPORTS SCHOOLThe year-round Mountain Sports School admin-

isters all the“sporty”activities in TetonVillage.For ex-ample, it oversees mountain biking andtrail-orientation classes. The qualified staffers alsooffer other fun recreational activities at the base of the

mountain, including bungee-trampolining. Additionally,they help operate the summer yurt and private adventureguide services.

SLEEP IN A YURTSleep over in the Tetons at the Rock SpringsYurt—the

Village’s version of an upscale tent withMongolian origins.The modern Rock Springs’yurt houses a wood-burningstove, eight bunk beds, akitchen, and a large diningtable.This unusual adventureis both rugged and luxurious.Reaching the yurt requires a2.5-mile hike up a trail thatgains 1,400 feet in elevation.But once there, your only re-sponsibilities are enjoying thescenery and your friends.Ex-pert guides cook the food,stoke the stove, and even dothe dishes.Not a bad tradeofffor an exhilarating hike.

PRIVATE ADVENTUREGUIDE

Thosewho detest the ideaof narrowing the choices fromso many amazing activitiescan hire an adventure guide.The guidewillmake selectingan activity simple, so you canenjoy your day without thestress of planning it.

The guide will meet youand up to five of your friends or family at your hotel in themorning.Your planned day could entail a guided excur-sion at Teton Village, horseback riding from the Villageinto Grand TetonNational Park,or simply an itinerary thatyou complete on your own.The guide will even transportyou back to your lodgings.Advanced booking is required.

May 23: Aerial Tram OpensJune 20-21: Aerofest 2008 – Paragliding clinics,

acrobatic demonstration & contestsJune 20: JH Sports 4th Annual Disc Golf SeriesJune 21: Summer Solstice and Family Fun DayJune 27: Jackson Hole Half-MarathonJune 27-28: Jackson Hole Wine AuctionJuly1-Aug15: Grand Teton Music FestivalJuly 4th: Fireworks Celebration in Teton VillageJuly 4-5: Silver Collector Car Show and AuctionJuly 10-12: Teton Village Art & Antique ShowJuly 24-26: Festival for the Arts – food, arts and

entertainment by 60 juried artistsJuly 25: JH Sports 4th Annual Disc Golf SeriesJuly 25: Taming the Tetons Mountain Bike RaceAug 5: UCJH Mountain Bike Race – August SeriesAug 12: UCJH Cyclecross Bike Race – August SeriesAug 15: Cache-Teton 24 Hour Running RelayAug 19: UCJH Mountain Bike Race – August SeriesAug 22: Rendezvous Mountain Bike Hill ClimbAug 28-30: Teton Village Art & Antique ShowAug 29: JH Sports 4th Annual Disc Golf SeriesSept 4-7: Festival for the Arts featuring foods,

arts and entertainmentSept 5-7: Jackson Hole Mountain Festival &

Labor Day Ski SaleSept 12: LOTOJA Bike Race

(Logan, Utah-Jackson Hole)Sept 19: TGR World Movie PremiereSept 27: Aerial Tram Closes

TETON VILLAGESummer Fest:

Ongoing Activities:Kids Ranch Day Camp – 307-739-2691

Jackson Hole Paragliding Rides – 307-690-4948Teton Village Trail Rides – 307-733-2674Grand Teton Music Festival Concert Series

307-733-1128Summer Team Extreme – 307-739-2691

More event information: www.jacksonhole.com

A young athlete goes inverted onthe Bungee Trampoline.

JacksonHoleMountain Resort’s new $31-milliontram carried its first skiers last December.

A family explores the alpine environment atthe top of Rendezvous Mountain.


Paraglidingphoto:JonHunt;allothers:WadeMcK

oyorBobWoodall


A mecca of wildflowers,

wildlife and mountain

scenery interspersed with

a wonderful sampling

of lodging, restaurants,

spas, activities and

entertainment. Whether

you stay for just the

day or a week, there is

plenty of relaxation and

adventure to enjoy

for everyone.

SEIZE THE

TETON VILLAGEDAYS OF SUMMER!

Pick up your free copy of

The Village Mix in any of the

businesses in Teton Village or visit

www.gotetonvillage.com

Box 583, Teton Village, Wyoming 83025307-733-3415 • FAX: 307-739-1142

http://www.thehostel.us email:[email protected]

COME AND STAY WITH US.Enjoy a comfortable, pleasant andinexpensive stay inTetonVillage

at the base of the JacksonHoleMountainResort.

1 or 2 Persons: $69—$99 per night per room3 or 4 Persons: $79—$109 per night per room

Rates vary from high to low seasons.New this summer—Bunkrooms available

KIDS’ RANCHGot kids?TetonVillage is well equipped with staff and facilities

to handle wee ones from as young as six months old.TheKids’Ranch operates June 15-August 31, right next to theBridger Gondola.

Licensed day-care providers lead youngsters on ad-ventures in TetonVillage while focusing on the nature,his-tory, and science of Jackson Hole. Junior trekkers hike,play sports,undertake science and arts projects,and frolicin the water.

“They’ll be able to do all the things that are availableto the public with their camp counselors,” Olson noted.“It’s an activity-based day program with counselors whoare well-trained, good, fun people.”

PEACEFUL PURSUITSFor some, a vacation is about being pampered, and

TetonVillage boasts plenty of tranquil treatments. If youfind it necessary to get away while getting away, severalresort properties offer spa treatments, top-of-the-line fit-ness centers, and restaurants the likes of which you’d ex-pect to find in metros like NewYork City.

ENTERTAINMENTDaily, check out the Mangy Moose Saloon—the fa-

mous TetonVillage bar with top-name, live entertainment.Throughout the summer, visit Walk Festival Hall to

hear music from the Grand Teton Music Festival series.Witness epic orchestra performances under themusic di-rection of maestro Donald Runnicles, only the third per-son to hold the position in the festival’s celebrated 46-yearhistory.

With all its amenities and activities, not to mentionbeing a gateway to Grand Teton National Park, TetonVil-lage begs for a long stay.You could spend an entire vaca-tion at this full-fledged year-round resort, and judgingfrom the passel of things to do and see,maybe you should.

UntilLaurenM.Whaley findsameaningful,structured,day job, she'll continue her freelance career while seekingadventure and dancing in JacksonHole and beyond.

Sprout wings with an expert pilot on a 20-minutetandem paragliding flight from the summit.

http://www.gotetonvillage.com

http://www.thehostel.us

http://www.jacksonhole.com/


A mere 25 minutes from Jackson Hole, Teton Valleyharbors a summer’s (andwinter’s) worth of diverse recre-ational opportunities for the entire family.

The breadth of Teton Valley’s eye-popping landscapecries out to anglers, hikers, backpackers, cyclists, horse-back riders,music lovers,and to sightseers who just wantto soak up all the natural wonders tucked in on the westside of the Grand Tetons.The valley’s high-altitudeWest-ern towns of Victor and Driggs still cling to their small-town charmwhile offering visitors service and first-classamenities to match the mountains.

At the base of Teton Pass lies the town ofVictor, Idaho,often a first and last stop for travelers (and for in-the-know locals) heading to or from Jackson.TheVictor Em-porium, right smack dab downtown, is the unchallengedold-fashioned soda fountain king of the region.The cleverlittle enterprise also dispenses spot-on fly-fishing updatesand info, and stocks all the gear and flies that put anglersin touch with their quarry. A well-known hangout forthose who crave chocolate malts or huckleberry milk-shakes, the Emporium’s handmade soda-fountain con-

coctions are often the reward for anglers returning froma day on the nearby South Fork, Teton, or Henry’s Forkrivers, trout havens that lure fly-fishers and boaters alike.

TetonValley is also home to one of the country’s finestski areas—the powdermine of Grand Targhee Resort.Aswith most ski resorts, its summer terrain promisesequally rewarding adventures.

Already world-famous for its unsurpassed and prodi-gious winter-recreation menu, Grand Targhee is nowstaking out its claim as a major summer destination re-sort. Countless activities await summer visitors andlodgers alike (that includes RVers), from hiking to horse-back riding, frommountain biking to major music festi-vals to fine dining, all in terrain every bit the equal ofMother Nature’s best.

The resort accesses hiking and biking trails rangingfrom half-a-mile to nearly eight miles, in an alpine set-ting where breathlessness is a choice.You can earn it theold-fashioned way or by climbing aboard the resort’sDreamcatcher chairlift,whichwill whisk you and the crewto the 10,000-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain.

by Mike Calabrese

ust over the pass

from Jackson Hole, set

beneath the majestic

Grand Tetons, lies one

of the West’s most

beautiful gems,

Teton Valley. A broadscenic basin once known to trappers and mountain menas Pierre’s Hole, Teton Valley is today a budding all-sea-son playground for the young at heart.

J


IDAHO • 83455

Ride the chairlift at Grand Targhee and get a head start on Grand Teton views.

TETON VALLEY


Bull moose, swans, and 4th of

July balloonists populate the

valley, while bikers and hikers

escape to the mountains. You

(and your bike) ride the chair-

lift all summer long at the

Grand Targhee Resort for just

$99. The Targhee Fest hosts

musicians Keb Mo, Johnny

Lang, James McMurtry, Gov’t

Mule and others, July 17-19.

Bluegrass royalty like the

David Grisman Quintet, the

John Cowan Band, The

Wilders, Yonder Mountain

String Band and a passel of

other notables share the stage

with scenery that matches

anything on the planet as the

resort kicks off its 22nd An-

nual Grand Targhee Bluegrass

Festival, August 21-23. A

Bluegrass Music Camp takes

place the week prior.

Photosbothpages

byWadeMcK

oyorBobWoodall;Wildlifephotos:HenryH.H

oldsw

orth—

Wild

ByNatureGallery

And when the starscome out at GrandTarghee, they really comeout! From July 17-19 thisyear, the mountain hostsmusicians Keb Mo,Johnny Lang, James Mc-Murtry, Gov’t Mule andothers during its cele-brated Targhee Fest.Then,from August 21-23, blue-grass royalty like theDavid Grisman Quintet,the John Cowan Band,The Wilders, YonderMountain String Bandand a passel of other no-tables share the stagewithscenery thatmatches any-thing on the planet as theresort kicks off its 22ndAnnual Grand TargheeBluegrass Festival.

Grand Targhee’s na-tionally known entertain-ment productions have paired up these spectacularheadline acts with the aspens, firs, gently sloping mead-ows, bluebird days and star-laden evenings that moun-tain country is famous for. Its outdoor festivals areunsurpassed celebrations of music in the North Ameri-can tradition.

Never resting on its laurels, the resort’s growing list of

activities and amenities alsoincludes a Kids’ Camp Sum-mer Program that will knocktheir socks off, a ropescourse, climbing wall, discgolf, swimming, and more.

And for visitors lookingto gear up for Targhee’s ter-rain and the valley’s recre-ational opportunities,Victor,Driggs and Grand Targheeshould be the only stops theymake. Local shops are greatplaces to find training orrecreation advice, and forgear, clothing, and guides tothe region. In Driggs, buy abike at Habitat and receivea complimentary GrandTarghee summer mountainbiking pass.

Sure, it may lie over thehill from Jackson Hole, butTeton Valley’s array of sum-mer activities and amenities

soundsmore like a fountain of youth,one that is luring en-thusiastic visitors of all ages.

Mike Calabrese,a Jackson resident for36 years,ownsthe region’s premiere music-booking agency, Notewor-thy, is a board member of the Jackson Hole Cowboy Ju-bilee, and supports his fly-fishing addiction throughmusic performance,writing, and editing.

208-787-2221Located in downtown

Victor, Idaho ~ Just 30 minutesfrom downtown Jackson Hole

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The Teton Rivermeanders through the valley inthe shadow of its namesake mountains.

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http://www.grandtarghee.com


Pinedale is still a small town at heart, set in big country.And it’s clear,even from the road, that the nearbyWind River Mountains,Green Riverand its lakes, historical sites and hordes of wildlife remain unspoiled allthese years after trappers first gathered here in themid-1800s.So settingoff from the highway could no doubtmake for an unexpectedlymem-orable experience.

A weary visitor to Pinedale’s environs can easily ignore themod-ern world.The nearby Green River still goes drifting along like it hasforever, the Wind River Mountains off in the distance change theirintriguing hues from dawn till dusk, and bawling cattle are stillherded through endless sagebrush fields by cowboys on horseback.

But the visitor needs to get out there in that marvelous land-scape—and it’s not that hard to do.Whether you prefer to drive,bike, hike, float, ride, or climb your way to create an adventure orfind seclusion, it really is simple to get away from it all.

The mountain men, fur trappers, and pioneers who camethrough this country in the last 100, 150, even 175 years, foundcompelling reasons to return to the Green RiverValley.Today’s vis-itors often discover similar reasons,and the beckoning landscapeand high-spirited activities might be among them.

The annual Green River Rendezvous,with its unique parade,mountain-man traders’ row, and renowned pageant of grizzledcharacters, is certainly one of the region’s most popular events,happening this year July 9-12.

If recreating on and around mountainside lakes gets youradrenaline going,blaze a trail to the Father’s Day Fishing Derbyon Fremont Lake (June 14),where the Pinedale Boat Club holdsits annual sailing regatta and other water events. Rodeos are featuredduring the Green River Rendezvous and Big Piney’s ChuckWagon Days

by Joy Ufford

he sign welcoming travelersinto Pinedale says it best—“All the civilization you need.”

TPronghorn antelope roam the prairies surrounding Pinedale.

Union Pass is a remote scenic drive, or, for this Wilderness Ventures group, a bike ride.

Photosbothpages

byWadeMcK

oyorBobWoodall

The Upper Green River Valley surrounded by the Gros Ventres andWind River Mountains provides good grazing for cattle ranchers.

PINEDALE WYOMING• 82941


Photosbothpages

byWadeMcK

oyorBobWoodall

(over July Fourth) as well as during the Sublette CountyFair, a down-home celebration complete with singingcowboys, rhinestone ropers, a fiddlers’ jamboree andmore, all reflecting the region’s ranching and agriculturalroots, July 31-Aug 9.

Looking for something a little more solitary? Theheadwaters of the Green River,which flow past old home-steaders’ cabins and classy guest ranches, begin near theiconic Square TopMountain andGreenRiver Lakes.Trails,some fairly rough and some worn smooth with use, leadhikers, riders, and mountain bikers up into wildflower-filled gullies and through stunning landscapes in a rela-tively short time.

Lakes large and small, high up and higher up, are setgemlike throughout the Winds and nearby WyomingRange, where fishing for mackinaw, rainbow, cutthroat,and golden trout is its own reward.Whether you go solo or

hire a guide, fishing can be a complete vacation choicearound Pinedale. The same goes for floating, kayaking,boating—even water-skiing on Boulder Lake’s chilly wa-ters (not for the faint-hearted, though).

The Winds are so spectacular and formidable theyalmost defy travelers to find the range’s heart. But therock climbing (especially in Cirque of the Towers),back-country pack trips andhorseback rides, flat-to-frightening mountain bik-ing, and breathtakingwildlife watching (moreanimals than people in thisterritory!) are world-renowned.

If you get a yearningfor the old ways and olddays, hiking into theBridger Wilderness cangive you that. More than428,000 acres of wild landwhere you’ll never hear achainsaw or meet a four-wheeler. If you require alittle less reality but stillseek experiences of theearly days, there are quickand enjoyable alternatives.

Visit the area’s twowonderful local-historymuseums and get a lessonas only they can teach it.The Green RiverValleyMu-seum in Big Piney is openJune 15-Oct. 15, noon to 4p.m., Tuesday through Sat-urday, donation admission.TheMuseumof theMountainMan in Pinedale is open May 1-Oct. 31, daily 10 a.m.-5p.m.through September,10 a.m.-Noon and 1-3 p.m.Mon-day-Friday in October.Adults $4,kids $3.You’ll come awaywith a new appreciation for the mountain men, miners,pioneers,and ranchers who struggled to find away to sur-vive in this paradisiacal valley.

The next question should be, ‘Where do I stay?’Make it as fancy or down-to-earth as you desire,from camping rough beside a mountain stream tocozying up at bed-and-breakfasts, watching wildlifewander through cabin sites, or savoring luxuriouslyrustic stays at working guest ranches. Camp-grounds, RV parks, and motels fill quickly in Sub-

lette County’s glorioussummers, so plan aheadby making reservationsbefore you arrive.

If in all this outdoors-oriented vacation youneed that little slice ofcivilization, there’s down-town Pinedale with its es-tablished cowboy shops,new movie theater, out-door-gear shops, hard-ware and auto-supplystores, two weekly news-papers, arts and culturalhappenings, excellentdining, and Westernshopping. No Wal Martwithin 100 miles!Whether you need newcowboy boots or the latestin fishing gear, you’ll findit in this little Westerntown with a big heart.

People here are proudof their uniqueness,yet justas it’s true of the GreenRiver Valley community inthe old-fashioned sense of

the word, there are bonds linking locals one to anotherand to the land.

It won’t take you long to discover those feelings withinyourself outdoors in Pinedale’s backyard.

Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranchhand and writer for the Sublette Examiner in Pinedale.

The Wind Rivers are sospectacular and formidablethey almost defy travelers tofind the range’s heart.

The rivers and lakes of the Wind River Rangehold excellent fishing waters.

Pinedale’s many trailheads lead to wilderness.

http://www.mountainmancountry.com

http://www.museumofthemountainman.com/

http://www.meetmeonthegreen.com/

nly the term“mountain man”can match that of“cowboy”for thewealth of color and lore associated

with the“winning of theWest.”Cowboys,of course,roamedpretty much everywhere west of the Mississippi and haveoutlived even their almostmythical epoch of the late 1800s.But mountain men,whomade do with less (after all, cow-boys always had their horses and cattle),prettymuchwentthe way of the beaver hat by the late 1850s.

For every BatMasterson,Bill Hickok,andWyatt Earp,there’s an equally notablemountainman.John C.FremontandWilliam Sublette have a couple of Wyoming countiesand mountain peaks named after them. Jedediah Smithand Kit Carson have certainly garnered enough press toearn their places in popularWestern culture.And moun-tain man Jim Bridger is so revered around here that visi-tors to Wyoming will find no fewer than 21 placeshonoring him. Fitting, then, that a .40 caliber half-stockrifle of his should end up in the region’smost famous col-lection of mountain man history and memorabilia—Museum of the Mountain Man in Pinedale,Wyoming.

Evenmore fitting, themuseum is situated on a hill notfar from the site of the original Green River Rendezvous,held in 1833 in the“Valley of the Green.”Over 3,000 Indi-ans, hundreds of mountain men, fur trappers, and mis-sionaries assembled there to barter and trade their goods.The cry “Meet me on the Green!” was a reminder and areassurance to early trappers,who spent long and isolatedwinters gathering beaver pelts, and to traders who trav-eled countless miles on hazardous, often life-threateningtrails. These rendezvous sometimeslasted formonths.Time enough to getsupplies, renew friendships, swapstories, trade, tipple, and, naturally,debauch. Of the 16 rendezvous heldduring the height of the RockyMountain fur trade, six were locatedin the Green RiverValley.

Exhibits at the museum providea good starting point for visitorsheading to the 73rd Annual GreenRiver Rendezvous, a re-creation ofthose original mountainman gatherings.This year’s ren-dezvous is replete with activities for the entire family andruns July 9-12. The Rendezvous Pageant, where over 200members of the community perform in original cos-

tumes, is set for Sunday, July 12 at 1 p.m. at the PinedaleRodeo Grounds. For more information visit the GreenRiver Rendezvous Pageant Association’s website at meet-meonthegreen.com or call (307) 367-2242.

The museum captures the waysand lore of these hardy individuals.Clothing,artifacts,mounted animals,even the Chief AmericanHorseWar-rior Society tipi help bring the daysof the mountain man alive. The mu-seum also colorfully showcases west-ern wildlife, Indians, fur trapping,wagon trains, mountain men, andbison in its spacious 15,000-square-foot facility. Bridger’s rifle, given tohim in 1853,was at one time part of

the Buffalo Bill collection.Fortunately, it has found a per-manent home in this rewarding and informative setting.The Museum of the Mountain Man is open daily from 9a.m. until 5 p.m., through September 30.Admission fees

are $5 for adults,$4 for seniors,and $3 for kids 6-12 yearsold.For more information call toll free (877) 686-6266 orgo online at museumofthemountainman.com.

Green River Rendezvous and Museum of the Mountain Man

Ph

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73rd AnnualGREEN RIVER

RENDEZVOUS PAGEANTSunday, July 12,1pm atPinedaleRodeoGrounds$5 Admission

GREEN RIVERRENDEZVOUS PAGEANT

Meet me on the Green

www.meetmeonthegreen.comCall (307)367-2242 for information

Parade:Saturday, July 11, 11amDowntown PinedaleLion’s Club BBQ:

Sunday, July 12, 11:30

Parade:Saturday, July 11, 11amDowntown PinedaleLion’s Club BBQ:

Sunday, July 12, 11:30www.meetmeonthegreen.com

Call (307)367-2242 for informationReservations 1-866-995-6343

Locally Owned & ManagedWest Hwy 191 in Pinedale

1054 W. Pine St.Pinedale, WY 82941

• Indoor Pool & Jacuzzi• Free Continental Breakfast• Free High-Speed Internet• Refrigerator and microwave in every room• Located minutes from White Pine Ski Area

307-367-8800

The LODGEAT PINEDALE

The LODGEAT PINEDALE

by Mike CalabreseO

The Green River Rendezvous Pageant celebrates Mountain Man Country.

Mountain man JimBridger is so reveredaround here that visi-tors to Wyoming willfind no fewer than 21places honoring him.


http://www.meetmeonthegreen.com/

http://www.lodgeatpinedale.com


ll right.You’ve been on the road for days. Petsand kids (maybe even spouses) clamoring for

your attention, succor, food, whatever.You’ve maintainedyour otherwise threatened sanity with thoughts of Yel-lowstone’s splendor and magnificence, its vastness andpromise of nature’s less domesticated sonic attributes(trees soughing in the breeze,birds voicing their approval,perhaps even the growl of some ursine creature). But areyou really ready to hit the park, cold turkey?Without, say,a brief respite?

Face it, you might just need to catch your breath—maybe even that sanity—before handing over entrancefees to a ranger at the park’s gate.No doubt you could usea place where you can check through that list of necessi-ties before hitting one of the park’s campgrounds or pitch-ing a tent in the backcountry, or simply chauffeuring thecrew aroundYellowstone’s countless wonders.

If you’re anywhere near West Yellowstone, Montana,keep the faith. If you’re not in the vicinity,head there now!

The town rests comfortably at 6,666 feet, its air cleanand refreshing—andwelcoming.WestYellowstone’s broadstreets, its passel of restaurants, diverse shops, and tree-hemmed lodging could be the start of one great ventureinto Yellowstone park itself.

Oh,yeah,and because it’s summer, the snow has beenpretty much packed away until late next fall.

The town teems with folks and activity throughout

the summer,but then again, it is 2009,not 1907,when thetown’s few visitors arrived mostly by rail on the OregonShort Line.Travelers toWestYellowstone then had almostno means or opportunity to take advan-tage of a final sup-ply stop beforeheading offinto na-t u r e ’ sm a j e s t y.Today, 100years afterit’s found-ing, West Yellow-stone’s 900 or so residents gear upannually for summer visitors readyingthemselves for park travels and moun-tain-country outings.

West, as it’s called by locals (localsinclude folks from as far away as Jack-son Hole,Wyoming, and Bozeman,Montana), is the per-fect place to begin preparing for that journey into thepark. Bookstores stocking an amazing array of regionalhistory, angling, and photography tomes also provide asanctuary to relax in before—or after—a park foray.Giftshops,microbreweries,delis,pizzerias,bike and outdoor-gear rental outlets, angling shops, clothing enterprises,

restaurants, sandwich counters,bars,grocery stores,all ofthem in West are prepared to help the weary—and attimes stymied—traveler make the best of a visit to oneof the most celebrated and impressive pieces of geogra-

phy in the world.Here’s a short list of

whatWestYellowstone’samiable folks can steerthe visitor to: cycling,fishing, hiking, hotsprings, horseback rid-ing, rafting, kayaking,tours, rodeos, movies,food, rest, even med-ical assistance.And,ofcourse,churches—forthose whose soulshave been tried in thebest and worst of

times, spent all too often inmotor vehicles jammed with kin and camp kitchen.

West itself butts right up against a park that is hometo 300 miles of roads, six types of ungulates, grizzly andblack bears, 10,000 thermal features, roughly 200 geysersand 41 waterfalls, and at 2,221,766 acres, enough land toapply for United Nations membership. So when Westopens its doors for summer travelers,businesses had bet-

The art exhibit“Buffalo Roam” ison display in WestYellowstone for athird summer.

by Mike CalabreseA

MONTANA • 59758WEST YELLOWSTONE

The Madison River flows within a fewmiles of downtownWest Yellowstone and attracts anglers from around the world.

Photos—

WadeMcK

oy(top);PaintedBuffalobyMichaelD

.Meissner;BearcourtesyGrizzlyandWolfDiscovry

Center


ter be ready.And they are, with products and services atpeak quality.

Visitors, too,had better be ready.Blazing hot days andbrisk, cool nights endured incars, tents, or on the trails, de-mand a certain amount of pre-paredness from Yellowstone’svisitors. Weather extremesmove in and out of the Yellow-stone area like goldfish dartingaround in an aquarium. Thenights can carry both thehaunting howling of wolves andcoyotes (yep, even in town) andthe daunting chill of quick temperature drops.

West’s summer calendar is loadedwith gatherings andfestivities that beckon devotees with a mind-bogglingarray of interests. June pretty much kicks off the region’s

summer season.Watch for “The Painted Buffalo Roam,”“The Painted Calves Unveiling,” The Janet Clarkson Me-morial Triathlon, and the opening of fishing on the park’s

inimitable Firehole River.July,ofcourse, starts with the usualbang and festivities on the 4th,while August plays host to the38th Annual Yellowstone RodRun, the 4th Annual SmokingWaters Rendezvous, The Pine-needle Stampede—a footracethrough one of the country’smost picturesque trail sys-tems—and the Yellowstone

Historic Center Ball.September andOctober round out thesocial calendar with the 54thAnnual Knothead Jamboreeand the 12thAnnual Fall Cycle Tour.

Topping it all off, theWest inWestYellowstone is cele-

brated by that most Western of traditions, rodeo. Cow-pokes compete every weekend, from June throughAugust,in the arena just a few miles outside of town. Visitwww.yellowstonerodeo.com for more info.

Now, if all of this seems like more than a body couldhandle, there’s always time for just laying over inWest andwalking around the friendly little town itself, grabbingsome grub, a drink, or a souvenir, or just basking in amountain-country community smack dab in the middleof nature’s playground.

For more information, visit West’s chamber site atwww.westyellowstonechamber.com. Or call the chamberat 406-646-7701.

Mike Calabrese, a 36-year resident of Jackson Hole,supports his fly-fishing addiction as a professional mu-sician, editor, and writer.He is the owner of Noteworthy,the region’s premieremusic-booking agency (www.note-worthymusicagency.com).

othing can prepare visitors to West Yellow-stone’s Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center(GWDC) for the startling,up-close experience

of viewing these epic, almost mythic, animals. Thehaunting, intelligent eyes of the graywolves and the regal pelage andmajesty of the grizzlies is simplybreathtaking, even in this carefullycontrolled and maintained habitat.A visit to the center can be every bitasmoving and educational as a jour-ney through the park itself, espe-cially for folks who never ventureaway from cars or campgrounds.

The not-for-profit Grizzly andWolf Discovery Center,also host to afirst-class educational exhibit center and theater, is thelast stop for some of nature’smost recognizable and yetmost threatened creatures.But it should be a first-stopfor visitors to the park.

All of the center’s grizzlies were otherwise doomed,thanks in no small part to their unfortunate adjustmentto, or run-ins with, humans. Foolish interactions–likefeeding them–or the misguided killing of predatorysows by ranchers,put these bears on a path toward cer-

tain destruction. The phrase “a fed bear is a deadbear” is not empty rhetoric.

The center’s stunning exhibit,“Bears: Imagina-tion and Reality,” compellingly draws visitors intothe world of bears, both “real and imaginary.” The25 taxidermic specimens highlight the richly diversecoloration of grizzlies and the awe-inspiring girthof the polar bear. Even accomplished outdoorsmenwill find the exhibit area’s interactive stations in-triguing and challenging.

Watching these bruins (the playful Sam tips thescales at 1,000 pounds) tussle with each other orrummage for food hidden throughout the habitatby both the center’s staff and visiting kids, revealsbehavior that, frankly, few people ever witness. See-ing Illie actually snatch a live rainbow from thehabitat’s stocked pond beats looking at even themost famous and widespread photos of Kodiaksswatting at salmon. Impressive as those images are,

they simply can’t convey the deft quickness of an 800-pound grizzly.

The center’s wolves roam in their own River Val-ley Wolf habitat, separate from that of the grizzlies.

But the two packs are as easilyand productively viewed fromthe outdoors viewing deckthrough the floor-to-ceilingwindows of the new NaturalistCabin. Kids, as well as adults,seem mesmerized by thewolves, and because passes tothe center are good for twoconsecutive days, visitorsoften return, as if to confirmthe reality and proximity of

these mysterious ancestors to today’s canines.The GWDC isAZAA (American Zoo andAquarium

Association) certified,amuch prized and hard-earnedendorsement.A visit to the Grizzly andWolf DiscoveryCenter will easily win over the hearts andminds of vis-itors of any age.

For more information, call the GWDC at 800-257-2570 or go online its site: www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org.

—Mike Calabrese

Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center

Seeing Illie actuallysnatch a live rainbowfrom the habitat’sstocked pond beatslooking at even the mostfamous and widespreadphotos of Kodiaksswatting at salmon.

The nights can carryboth the haunting howlingof wolves and coyotes(yep, even in town) and thedaunting chill of quicktemperature drops.

Bruins in the center’s habitat display exhibit be-havior that few people ever see in the wild.

N

http://www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org

http://www.erniesbakery.com


Stop in for all your fishing, camping &hunting supplies.

[email protected]

1428 Warm Springs Drive307-455-2587

Whiskey Mtn.Tackle & SportsWhiskey Mtn.

Tackle & Sports

Few mammals can match the Rocky Mountainbighorn sheep for its sure-footedness. Powerful andnimble, even at 250 to 300 pounds, it treads cragsand rocky trails like no other creature on earth. Butthis magnificent animal’s survival is threatened allover theWest.Fortunately, its beauty and tenuous ex-istence have been showcased graphically and ele-gantly in the National Bighorn Sheep InterpretiveCenter, right in downtown Dubois,Wyoming.

Stunning, full-size bighorns—set amidst theirnatural flora and geology—lend to this center abreathtaking realism.Photos and hands-on exhibitsdraw visitors into the majestic range and habits ofthese powerful animals. Set aside some time for thekids to take in the center’s engaging hands-on dis-plays and information.

Dubois, of course, hosts this interpretive centerfor good reason: nearbyWhiskeyMountain is hometo the largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountainbighorn sheep inNorthAmerica.And,duringwinter,the staff offers fully guided tours to the snowy habi-tat. The center’s website also accesses a biologist’sjournal describing the sheep’s slow recovery from thepopulation“crash”of 1990.

Located right on the main street of Dubois(which just happens to be Wyoming Highway287/26), the National Bighorn Sheep InterpretiveCenter is open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.during thesummer.Admission fees are $2.50 for adults and $6for families.

For more information, call toll free (888) 209-2795, go on-line at www.bighorn.org, or e-mail thecenter at [email protected].—Mike Calabrese

The mountain-hemmed town of Dubois and theUpperWind RiverValley that surrounds it are only aboutan hour’s drive from Jackson Hole, but they’re a worldaway. Trade alpine for desert...

The area is one of the most spectacularly scenic—and still relatively undiscovered—vacation destinationsin the Northern Rockies.

Dubois is a small ranching community (populationabout 900) set on the Wind River between the AbsarokaandWind River mountain ranges. The town and its out-lying hay meadows and cattle ranches are bordered byseveral million acres of National Forest,more than half ofwhich are protected as wilderness areas.

SPECTACULAR WILD COUNTRYTo the east of town are the dramatic red rock canyons

and colorful rock formations of the Dubois Badlands. Tothe southwest loom the rugged peaks and glacial lakes oftheWindRiverRange.To theNorth rise the pine-clad slopesand alpine meadows of the Absaroka Range.And rollingaway to the southeast are the sagebrushhills andhighplainsof the vast Wind River Indian Reservation, home to theNorthernArapahoe and Eastern Shoshone tribes.

The valley abounds with wildlife. Nearby WhiskeyMountain supports the largest herd of Rocky Mountainbighorn sheep inNorthAmerica.Other big-game animalsand rare species thrive in the wild country that surroundsDubois: moose, elk, antelope, deer, wolf, mountain lion,bald and golden eagle, grizzly and black bear. Areastreams and lakes teemwith an impressive array of gamefish, including rainbow, lake,brook,cutthroat,golden andbrown trout, grayling and mountain whitefish.

WHAT TO DO IN DUBOISAlthough outdoor adventures are the area’s specialty,

there’s lots to do in town as well.The National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center is a

major visitor attraction. The center houses a number ofimpressive exhibits on bighorn sheep biology and suc-cessful herd management methods used at WhiskeyMountain. Next door, the Dubois Museum’s exhibits linkthe valley’s ethnic, social, cultural, and work history withits archaeology, geology, and natural history.

On Friday nights cowboys and cowgirls take to thearena just east of town at the Clarence Allison Arena totest their rodeo skills.Chuckwagon dinners, square danc-ing, bazaars, even Shakespeare (Richard II will make anappearance on stage) have a hand in Dubois summerevents.

Naturally, town shops proffer everything from cow-boy boots and fly-fishing gear to handsome coffee-tablebooks and upscale gifts.Mother Nature is open seven daysa week and so is Wind River Gear, located right in theheart of Dubois. BetweenWind River Gear andWhiskeyMountain Tackle Shop, a recreationist would be hardpressed to hit the great outdoors unprepared.

A tour of town stores also reveals fine silver jewelry,crafts by Native American tribes, high-quality Western-theme gifts, and crafts by local artists.

OFF THE BEATEN PATHDubois is a busy place in the summer,but the solitude

and natural splendor of the badlands and mountains areonly minutes away. Miles of scenic unpaved roads takevisitors in vehicles or on mountain bikes deep into thebackcountry,and dozens of trailheads lead to a network of

well-maintained hiking and horse trails.Southwest of Dubois is Union Pass, said to be the only

place in the country where three river sources flow in dif-ferent directions: streams born on the pass eventually jointhe Columbia, Mississippi, and Colorado rivers. UnionPass is accessible to four-wheel-drive vehicles during thesummer months and early fall.

Southeast of town isWhiskey Mountain with its resi-dent bighorn sheep herd and amajor trailhead that servesas the jumping-off point for hikes and horse-packing tripsinto the FitzpatrickWilderness.The dirt road that leads tothe trailhead makes for slow going, but sharp-eyed trav-elers can spot ancient petroglyphs carved into rock facesalong the way.

For those who really want to get away from it all, anumber of local outfitters offer guided fishing and pack-horse trips into nearby wilderness areas.

For more information about Dubois and the UpperWind River Valley, contact the Dubois Chamber of Com-merce, P.O.Box 632,Dubois,WY 82513,(307) 455-2556,oron-line at duboiswyoming.org.

NancyDebevoise’s articles about theNorthernRock-ies have appeared in The New York Times,The Washing-ton Post,Travel & Leisure, andDestination Discovery.

by Nancy Debevoise

Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center

Photos:BobWoodall/TriangleCRanch-ThunerMountainOutfitters

A pack string heads up the Du Noir River Valley into the Washakie Wilderness Area.

DUBOIS WYOMING • 82513

http://www.windrivergearshop.com



Located on the shore of Fremont Lake 4-milesnorth of Pinedale. Western hospitality, privacy& informal comfort surrounded by pristinewilderness. The resort includes a main lodge &restaurant, deluxe & rustic log cabins, and ma-rina with boat rentals. Aperfect location for meet-ings, conventions, family reunions, receptions,training sessions or any large group function.

Pinedale, Wyoming 82941877-755-LAKE / 307-367-2221www.LakesideLodge.com

Lakeside Lodge ResortGrand Targhee offers convenient, comfort-able, and flexible lodging both on-mountainand in Teton Valley. Whether you desire tobe at the Resort or on Ski Hill Road you haveimmediate access to the area’s summer ad-ventures including mountain biking, horse-back riding, rafting, fly fishing, and muchmore.

Alta, Wyoming 834141-800-TARGHEE 307-353-2300

www.GrandTarghee.com

Grand Targhee Resort

The lodging facility that offers service with asmile combined with price and comfort thatadds value to your trip! Ask about our grouprates, packages and specials. Always freecontinental breakfast; concierge; WIFI;micro-fridge. Come and relax in our giant hottub and sauna!

350 South Highway 89, P.O. Box 9179Jackson, WY 83002

877-JHPlace / 307-733-4340www.ThePoinntJH.com

email: [email protected]

The Point Inn & SuitesExperience true Western hospitality in the heart ofJackson Hole. Just steps away from the free citybus, river rafting, and other recreation. Compli-mentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wirelessinternet, microwave/refrigerator,cable TV with HBOand free local calls. Custom packages & grouprates.

750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, WY 83001800-800-8000 / [email protected]

Jackson Hole Super 8

600 So. Hwy 89, Jackson, Wy 83001307-733-1620 Fax: 307-734-9175

Reservations Number 1-800-466-8356www.motel6.com

Motel 6 Resort in JacksonTwomiles from historic town square, 1 block fromfree bus shuttle, Next to Kmart shopping centerwith shops and restaurants.All guest roomswerecompletely remodeled spring 2009. Guest roomssurround a park like setting for picnics and ourswimming pool. Guest laundries, free local calls,free morning coffee,WIFI access & expandedcable. Pet friendly & kids under 18 stay free

Located just three blocks from the TownSquare, the Painted Buffalo Inn offers con-venient, comfortable accommodations in theheart of Jackson. Within walking distance,you will find streets lined with restaurants,shops, and galleries. Once here, our knowl-edgeable staff will help to ensure an enjoy-able vacation for you and your family.

400 West Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001800-288-3866 / [email protected]

Painted Buffalo Inn

LODGING DIRECTORY

($) Cost Per Night up to $100; ($$) Cost Per Night up to $250; ($$$) Cost Per Night over $250

Resta

urant/Bar

Breakfa

stInc

luded

Swimming

Pool

Hot Tub

/ Sauna

Smoke F

ree

Handica

p Accessib

le

Pet Friendly

Spa/F

itness C

enter

Micro

wave—Refrig

Meeting

Room

Suites

Internet Access

Fireplac

e in R

oom

Grand Targhee Resort $$-$$$ • • • • • • • • •Jackson Hole Super 8 $$ • • • • •Lakeside Lodge & Marina $$ • • • • • •Motel 6 $ • • • • •Painted Buffalo Inn $$ • • • • • • • •Point Inn $$ • • • • • some

HOTELS ~ MOTELS

LODGES ~ RESORTS

LODGING INDEX

Rates Based onDouble Occupancy


http://www.lakesidelodge.com


http://www.paintedbuffaloinn.com

http://www.thepointjh.com

http://www.jacksonholesuper8.com

ACCOMMODATIONS, CAMPING & SPASCODY, WYOM ING

BUFFALO BILL’S CODY/YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY Information center,836 Sheridan Av., 800-393-2639 www.yellowstonecountry.org pg 37

DUBOI S , WYOM INGTRIANGLE C RANCH 3-6 day traditional summer dude ranch vacationswith programs for the whole family. (800) 661-4928 or 307- 455-2225

GRAND TARGHEE, WYOM INGGRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons whereall activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Take a scenic chairlift to thesummit, experience geocache treasure hunting or horseback ridingin our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44

JACKSON, WYOM INGMOTEL 6 Remodeled! Remardable! Clean, friendly, affordable. Petfriendly, kids under 18 stay free. Outdoor pool & picnic courtyardopen in summer. Guest laundry. WIFI. 600 So. Hwy 89, motel6.com,307-733-1620 Reservations call: 800-4MOTEL6 pg 35 & 51PAINTED BUFFALO INN Offers comfortable lodging in the heart ofdowntown Jackson, 3-blocks from the Town Square. Swimming pool,sauna & shuttle stops are just a few of the conveinences we offer.400 W. Broadway, www.paintedbuffaloinn.com 800-288-3866 pg 51POINT INN AND SUITES Service with a smile combine with the priceand comfort that adds value to your trip. Free breakfast, WIFI, micro-fridge, hot tub, sauna. www.ThePointJH.com 877-547-5223 pg 51SUPER 8 Experience true western hospitality in the heart of JacksonHole. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wirelessinternet, microwave/refrigerator. Custom packages & group rates.www.jacksonholesuper8.com, 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, 800-800-8000/307-733-6833 pg 51VIRGINIAN LODGE 170 rooms, jacuzzi suites, phones, restaurant,saloon, liquor store, convention facilities, cable TV. Summer RV park.750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999 pg 31VIRGINIAN RV PARK 105 large spaces, 64 pull-through spaces. 50amp electric, full sewer hook-up, cable TV, laundry, swimming pool,restaurant, saloon and liquor store. 307-733-7189 pg 31

PINEDALE, WYOMINGLAKESIDE LODGE RESORT AND MARINA Located on the shore ofFremont Lake, 4-miles north of Pinedale. Privacy & informal comfortsurrounded by pristine wilderness. Resort includes main lodge &restaurant, deluxe & rustic log cabins, & marina, with magnificentviews of the lake & the Wind River Mountain Range.www.lakesidelodge.com, 307-367-2221 pg 51THE LODGE AT PINEDALE Center of Pinedale, 43 rooms, deluxe con-tinental breakfast,comp evening cookies, indoor pool &jacuzzi,laundry, lobby computer w/high-speed internet, refrigerator &microwave in every room, Sat-TV w/HBO.www.lodgeatpinedale.com. 866-995-6343 pg 47SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE MountainManCountry.com pg 46

TETON V I LLAGE, WYOM INGHOSTEL A friendly lodge with rooms all have private baths & maidservice. Rates range from $69 for 1-2 people to $109 for 3-4 people.Bunkrooms available. At the base of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, inTeton Village, Wyoming. www.thehostel.us 307-733-3415 pg 41JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next tothe Teton Village Market, lodging & accommodation for all seasons.Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getawaysand reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 pg 41TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION A wide variety of lodging choicesfrom high end to very affordable are available in Teton Village. Pickup the Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village businesses forthe various listings or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call1-866-749-4077 pg 41

APPARELCODY, WYOM ING

SIERRA TRADING POST OUTLET STORE Cody’s best selection ofoutdoor clothing and equipment. The North Face, Carhartt, Kelty,Vasque, Marmot, Pearl Izumi, Lowe Alpine. Just south of the BuffaloBill Historical Center, 1402 8th Street, 307-578-5802 pg 38

DUBOI S , WYOM INGWIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casualwear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books,GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend.....where outdoor adventures begin. www.windrivergearshop.com,19 N. First St., 307-455-3468, pg 50

JACKSON & TETON V I LLAGE, WYOM INGJACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 41th Anniversary! Locallyowned & operated, Jackson’s premier outdoor store, extensive selec-tion of brand name products needed for any outdoor pursuit. Twolocations; on the Square in Jackson 307-733-3270, Alpenhof in TetonVillage 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 19

JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, isyour one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes,accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bikerentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 41TERRA Find unique pieces from local artists as well as Calypso,Trina Turk, True Religion, Joe’s Jeans, James Perse, RobertGraham, Splendid, Lacoste, Tibi. 105 E. Broadway. 307-734-0067pg 15TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION Teton Village boast a wide rangeof well-assorted High Mountain and Outdoor apparel stores. Pick upthe Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village Businesses for thevarious listings or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com pg 41

ART, JEWELRY & MUSICJACKSON HOLE, WYOM ING

DANSHELLEY JEWELERS: Wyoming’s Finest Jewelry Experiencesince 1976! From diamonds to elk ivory, to Teton & wildlife originalsand distinctive wedding sets. This gallery transcends the ordinary!Downtown in Gaslight Alley, just off the Town Square.www.DanShelley.com 125 N. Cache. 307-733-2259 pg 3GRAND TARGHEE MUSIC FESTIVALS Great food, vendors, games,part of our summer music festivals. Tent camp in our beautiful for-est during events. It starts with the 5th Annual Targhee Fest, July 17-19. Next is the 4th Annual Bluegrass Music Camp, Aug 18-21, andthe 22nd Annual Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival, Aug 21-23.www.grandtarghee.com pg 44NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for alltypes of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 21TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION Throughout the summer seasonTeton Village hosts several art and antique shows and musical per-formances. For a listing of events, pick up the Free Village Mixbrochure in all Teton Village Businesses or visit on-line atwww.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 41

BICYCLE: RENTAL, SALES, & SERVICEJACKSON & TETON V I LLAGE, WYOM ING

FAT TIRE TOURS Guided mountain-bike adventures on the ElkRefuge, Snow King Mountain, and the Bridger-Teton Forest. Beginnersthru experts. Great Fun. 40 S. Millward. 307-733-5335 pg 23HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike shop. Staffedby professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Dealer forSpecialized, Trek, Haro and Santa Cruz. Bike tours daily. 520 WestBroadway. 307-733-5335 pg 23

JACKSON HOLE SPORTS Bike Rentals for the entire family in theBridger Center, Teton Village. Free Teewinot lift access with full day

rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. Gear, sportswear, shoes, accessoriesand more. 307-739-2687 pg 41TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION Several sports stores in TetonVillage rent, sell and service bicycles. For a complete overview, pickup the Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village Businesses orvisit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 41

TETON VALLEY-DR IGGS/V ICTOR, I DAHOGRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons whereall activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Mountain bike rentals, sin-gle & double track riding from base. Expert downhill riding from topof chairlift. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44

BOATING–CANOEING–KAYAKINGSCENIC & WHITEWATER RAFTING

JACKSON HOLE, WYOM INGMAD RIVER BOAT TRIPS With 14 departures daily, Mad River hassomething for everyone. New equipment, trained guides & the mostvariety. Breakfast, lunch & dinner trips.The best name in whitewater& scenic trips! 1255 S Hwy 89, 307-733-6203/800-458-7238 pg 21SANDS WILDWATER RIVER TRIPS In our 5th decade, our boatmenhave a deep knowledge of every turn, rapid, & current. We've takentens of thousands of people safely down river, including thePresident of the United States. Variet of scenic & whitewater trips,breakfast & overnight trips. 307-733-4410/800-358-8184 pg 21

PINEDALE, WYOMINGLAKESIDE LODGE & MARINA Offers marina services, gas, boatslips—seasonal & temporary, trailer parking, pontoon, small fishingboat, canoe, kayak, paddle boat & jet boat rentals. Quick tie ups forthose stopping for a meal, purchase beer, or to visit. On Fremont Lake,4–miles from Pinedale. www.lakesidelodge.com, 307-367-2221 pg 51

CAMERAS, BINOCULARS & PHOTOGRAPHYJACKSON HOLE, WYOM ING

DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera store.Authorized dealer: Canon, Nikon, Lica, & Pentax. Binoculars, film,frames, & accessories. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film &digital processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831pg 2, 7 & 55FOCUS PRODUCTIONS, INC. Publishers of Mountain Country, JacksonHole Skier & JH Dining Guide. Commercial & editorial photography &stock photo library. 307-733-6995 www.focusproductions.com

WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photog-raphy of Henry H. Holdsworth. Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloneywildbynaturegallery.com 307-733-8877 pg 15

CLIMBING GUIDES & CLIMBING WALLGRAND TARGHEE, WYOM ING

GRAND TARGHEE CLIMBING WALL Experience the fun andchal111lenge of sport climbing right at the base area. Our experi-enced staff will help coach you to the top of our specially designedclimbing wall. pg 44

JACKSON HOLE, WYOM INGJACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968 Offering guidedclimbs and rock climbing instruction in the Tetons, Winds,Beartooths, Red Rocks, Moab & Indian Creek and City of Rocks. 800-239-7642 www.jhmg.com pg 29

P INEDALE , WYOM INGSUBLETTE COUNTY Hiking & climbing in the Wind River &Wyoming Ranges.MountainManCountry.com pg 46

FOOD–RESTAURANTS–DELI–GROCERIESLOUNGES & LIQUOR STORES

GRAND TARGHEE, WYOM INGGRAND TARGHEE serves up a variety of fare at reasonable prices.Find fine dining at the Branding Iron Grille, quick snacks at Snorkel’sor Wild Bill’s Grille, or a full service cafeteria. The Trap Bar & Grille ishome to great food, spirits and local entertainment in a casualatmosphere. pg 44

JACKSON & TETON V I LLAGE, WYOM INGBACKCOUNTRY PROVISIONS Featuring quality ingredients, fastservice, and great value, BCP is the locals #1 choice for breakfast &lunch. Voted best sandwich in Jackson. Open 7 am to 5pm, 7 daysa week. Located 1/2 block west of the town square on Delony St.307-734-9420 pg 27BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS The locals' first choice for a greathalf pound burger, hot dogs and sandwiches. In a lively dineratmosphere. Daily from 11:30 thru dinner. Counter service & take-out. Next to the Cadillac Grille, on the Square. 307-733-3279 pg 56CADILLAC GRILLE A locals' favorite for over 20 years. Choice steaks,game, fresh seafood & pasta. Innovative dishes prepared with care &precision for the discerning palate. Lunch & dinner. Premium welldrinks. Bar menu. 2-for-1 happy hour 5-7daily. Opens daily at 11:30. Onthe Jackson Town Square. 307-733-3279 pg 56

COULOIR AT JH MOUNTAIN RESORT Step off the Bridger Gondola3,000’ above the valley at 9,095’ for fine dining at the CouloirRestaurant, a truely unique dining experience. Open evenings Thur-Sat, June 18-27, Wed-Sun, July 4-Labor Day. Cocktails & appetizers onthe “Deck,” start July 4. Ride FREE 5:30-10p.m. 307-739-2654 pg 4143 NORTH Upscale Tavern at the Base of Snow King Mountain.

AC T I V I T I E S – BU S I N E S S E S – S E R V I C E S

Left:BobWoodall;Right:BobWoodall/Trian

gleCRanch-ThunerMountainOutfitters

Aerial view – Flat Creek, Wyoming



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http://www.yellowstonecountry.org

http://www.trianglec.com



http://www.paintedbuffaloinn.com

http://www.thepointjh.com

http://www.jacksonholesuper8.com




http://www.lodgeatpinedale.com







http://www.jacksonhole.com










http://www.terrajh.com

http://www.danshelley.com

http://www.cadillac-grille.com


http://www.backcountryprovisions.com

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http://www.jhmg.com

http://www.focusproductions.com



http://www.sandswhitewater.com




Open nightly with alfresco and rooftop dining. Live Music. Enjoyaged steaks, fresh seafood, and micro-brewed beer. 733-0043 pg 13JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo:jerkey, salami, smokedroast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burgers & jerky. Pick up your steakfor the BBQ. Gift packs smoked trout & more. WE SHIP! FreeSamples south of town in Smith’s Plaza, & downtown in GaslightAlley. 800-543-6328 / 733-4159. www.buybuffalomeat.com pg 2JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE This 96 page magazine is a compendi-um of menus from the areas restaurants, with index of food types, alongwith maps to restaurants. Pick up a copy at your lodge or view on line atwww.focusproductions.com

JACKSON HOLEMOUNTAIN RESORT At Teton Village, over 12 restau-rants offer breakfast, lunch & dinner, from gourmet burgers, pizza to dis-tinct American cuisine. pg 41McDONALD’S OF JACKSON HOLE Where quality, service, cleanliness& value are a tradition. Featuring McDonald's freshly prepared break-fast & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi availability for your convenience.5:00am-midnight daily. 1110 W. Broadway @ Hwy 22. pg 13TETON LIQUOR Cold beer, full selection of liquor & a great varietyof wine, mixers, ice & more. Conveniently located next to K-Mart onSouth highway 89. Open daily. Order online at www.jacksonholewineandspirits.com, 307-739-1122 pg 35TETON STEAKHOUSE Breakfast, lunch & dinner. Steaks, salad bar,chicken, seafood & more. Jackson’s local favorite! Corner of Pearl &Cache across from Antler Inn. pg 33TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION A wide array of food and drinkestablishments are scattered throughout Teton Village. Pick up theVillage Mix brochure in all Teton Village Businesses for the variouslistings, visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com 866-749-4077 pg 41VIRGINIAN SALOON Restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facili-ties, 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999. pg 31

PINEDALE, WYOMINGLAKESIDE LODGE RESTAURANT Dine inside or out on the deckand enjoy fine food and spirits in a casual atmosphere with breath-taking views of Fremont Lake and the Wind RiverMountains.www.lakesidelodge.com, 307-367-2221 pg 51

TETON VALLEY—V ICTOR, I DAHOVICTOR EMPORIUM Ice cream & more. World Famous HuckleberryShakes. Something for every member of the family, even the dog!Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 44

WEST YE LLOWSTONE, MONTANAERNIE’S DELI & BAKERY Picnic box lunches. Sandwiches madewith fresh baked bread! Deli-sliced meats & cheeses. Breakfast bak-ery items. Dine in or take out. Beer & wine. Call ahead for “no wait”pick-up! 406-646-9467, 406 Hwy 20. pg 49

GIFTS, ANTIQUES & RETAIL SPECIALTIESJACKSON & TETON V I LLAGE, WYOM ING

TETON VILLAGE Gift shops, apparel, sports equipment, at JacksonHole Sports in the Bridger Center. 732-3618 pg 41JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers,jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Giftpacks available, WE SHIP! SEE FOOD & RESTAURANTS pg 2

JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE The official logo store of theJackson Hole Mountain Resort. Your source for logo apparel & giftson the east side of the Jackson Town Square. 307-734-6045 pg 41

TETON VALLEY-V ICTOR /DR IGGS, I DAHOVICTOR EMPORIUM Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World FamousHuckleberry Shakes, & more. Something for every member of thefamily, even the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 44

FRISBEE GOLFGRAND TARGHEE, WYOM ING

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 18-hole disk golf course. 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44

JACKSON & TETON V I LLAGE, WYOM ING9-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF Course starts at Jackson Hole Sports in TetonVillage. Course is free, maps, info and discs available in the shop.307-739-2687 pg 41

GUIDES & OUTFITTERSFISHING–HORSEBACK RIDING–HUNTING

DUBOI S , WYOM INGTHUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing,covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind RiverMountains. 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225

WHISKEY MOUNTAIN TACKLE We are a full sporting goods storethat offers the area’s largest selection of flies, topo maps, hunting& camping gear. Licenses & ATV permits also. 307-455-2587 pg 50

GRAND TARGHEE, WYOM INGGRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, whereall activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Go horseback riding in ourpanoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44

JACKSON & TETON V I LLAGE, WYOM INGJACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 40th Anniversary!Exceptional guided fishing trips, hand-crafted flies, and superiorservice are the norm. On the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270 & theAlpenhof in Teton Village, 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 19TETON VILLAGE TRAIL RIDES Take a horseback ride on the HistoricSnake River Ranch with a real cowboy. Hourly rides. Quality moun-tain horses. Next to Teton Village. 307-733-2674 pg 31WAGONS WEST COVERED WAGON TREKS Relive pioneerdays on a 2, 4 or 6 day trek into the Mt. Leidy [email protected] 307-886-5284, 800-447-4711 pg 31WESTBANK ANGLERS Home to Jackson Hole’s most experienced &professional guided fly fishing services. Full & 1/2 day trips, beginner toexperts. Snake, Green, New Fork & South Fork Rivers & Yellowstone

National Park. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 19YELLOWSTONE OUTFITTERS 2 & 4 hr & all-day horseback rides intoTeton Wilderness. 6-day 1st class horse-pack trips into Yellowstone &Thorofare Rivers. Orvis-endorsed outfitter. Box Creek base camp eastof Moran Jct. @ 23590 Buffalo Valley Road. June, July, Aug & Sept.Reservations needed, 307-543-2418, 800-447-4711 pg 31SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Hiking, fishing, riding in theWind River & Wyoming Ranges.MountainManCountry.com pg 46

TETON VALLEY-V ICTOR /DR IGGS, I DAHOVICTOR EMPORIUM Where the locals shop for fishing advice &gear! Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous HuckleberryShakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, eventhe dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 44

OUTDOOR SHOPSCODY, WYOM ING

SIERRA TRADING POST OUTLET STORE Cody’s best selection ofoutdoor clothing and equipment. The North Face, Carhartt, Kelty,Vasque, Marmot, Pearl Izumi, Lowe Alpine. Just south of the BuffaloBill Historical Center, 1402 8th Street, 307-578-5802 pg 38

DUBOI S , WYOM INGWHISKEY MOUNTAIN TACKLE We are a full sporting goods storethat offers the area’s largest selection of flies, topo maps, hunting& camping gear. Licenses & ATV permits also. 307-455-2587 pg 50WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casualwear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books,GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend.....where outdoor adventures begin. www.windrivergearshop.com,19 N. First St., 307-455-3468, pg 50

JACKSON & TETON V I LLAGE, WYOM INGHOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike & outdoorshop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize.Hiking & running shoes and accessories. 520 West Broadway-#3. 307-733-5335 pg 23JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 40th Anniversary! Locallyowned and operated. Extensive selection of brand name productsfor any outdoor pursuit. Hand-crafted flies, & superior service. Onthe Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270, the Alpenhof in Teton Village307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 19

JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, isyour one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes,accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bikerentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 41TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION Several Outdoor stores in TetonVillage have gear, clothing etc. to outfit you for any adventure. Fora complete overview, pick up the Village Mix brochure in all TetonVillage Businesses or on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com.pg 41WESTBANK ANGLERS Jackson Hole’s fly fishing experts. Most com-plete selection of flies & tackle available. Mail order & website cat-alogues. Retail store on the Teton Village Road, just North of theAspens. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 19

TETON VALLEY-DR IGGS/V ICTOR, I DAHOVICTOR EMPORIUM Where the locals shop for fishing advice &gear! Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous HuckleberryShakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, eventhe dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 44

PARAGLIDINGJH PARAGLIDING Tandem paragliding rides from the top of theJackson Hole Aerial Tram—the experience of a lifetime. Instructionavailable. Reservations & rates in Café 6311 at the Nick Wilson’s atthe base of the Bridger Gondola, (307) 690-4948 pg 41

RODEOCODY, WYOM ING

CODY NITE RODEO Best of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. All Rodeo Events.Nightly at 8:00, June 1– Aug. 31. Kid’s events, clowns, covered grand-stand, free parking. Tickets available at the covered wagon in city park,front gate & various businesses. 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 33

TIRES—BRAKES—ALIGNMENTJACKSON, WYOM ING

BIG 0 TIRES Featuring famous Big O Brand Tires. Bigfoot tires for allyour SUV and 4x4 needs. Computor alignment, complete brake serv-ice, shocks, struts & wheels. Best tire warranty in the business. 90-day financing availale. www.bigotires.com. Next to K-Mart & Motel6, 530 S. Hwy 89, 307-733-8325 pg 35

TRAM—GONDOLA–CHAIRLIFTSGRAND TARGHEE, WYOM ING

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, whereall activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Take a scenic chairlift to thesummit, access our mountain bike trails or horseback riding in ourpanoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44

JACKSON HOLE, WYOM INGJACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM The NEW tram is here! Ride 4,139’above the valley to 10,450’ and the alpine timberline environment.Take in the 360 degree panorama, naturalist on duty. The biggercabins can accomodate up to 60 people. 307-739-2654 pg 41

JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA Ride 3,000’ above the valleyto 9,095’ and the Bridger Restaurant. Cocktails & appetizers on the“Deck” or fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant. Open eveningsThur-Sat, June 18-27; Wed-Sun, July 4-Labor Day. Ride FREE 5:30-10p.m. 307-739-2654 pg 41

TEEWINOT CHAIRLIFT In Teton Village ride the chairlift with yourbike or on foot to access miles of single track for all types of ridersand hiking trails into Grand Teton NP. Tickets & bike rentals at JHSports in the Bridger Center, at the base of the lift. Free lift ticket ifyou rent from a bike from JH Sports. 307-739-2687 pg 41

WILDLIFE & PHOTO SAFARIS –TOURSMUSEUMS, & INTERPRETIVE CENTERS

DUBOI S , WYOM INGNATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER Enjoyable &educational experience."Sheep Mountain,"photos & hands-onexhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & habits of these mag-nificent animals. Gift shop. 9am-8pm daily. 307-455-3429 pg 15

JACKSON HOLE, WYOM INGRIVER RUNNERS MUSEUM Historic boats, rafts, artifacts & replicastake visitors into another era, when river running was a courageous& risky means of travel. In the Mad River Boat Trips “Wedge,” 1255S Hwy 89, Jackson 307-733-6203 pg 21WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SCHOOL provides year-round wildlife viewing & natural history interpretation to anyone inter-ested in close-up, ethical viewing of Greater Yellowstone’s wild animals intheir natural habitat. www.wildlifeexpeditions.org 888-945-3567, 307-733-2623 pg 7

P INEDALE , WYOM ING73rd ANNUAL GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT This hour-long re-enactment relives the early mountain man & Indian history ofthe area. “Meet Me on the Green!” Sunday, July 12, 1pm at thePinedale Rodeo Grounds. 307-367-2242. pg 47MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN Exhibits on fur trade,Mountain Men, Plains Indians and Western exploration. Open daily9am-5pm through September 30. Green River Rendezvous weekendJuly 12-15, 2006. Toll free-877-686-6266 pg 46

WEST YE LLOWSTONE, MONTANAGRIZZLY & WOLF DISCOVERY CENTER See LIVE bears & wolves.Get a glimpse into their worlds at this AZA accredited, Not-for-Profit, Wildlife Park & Educational Center. Films, programs & activi-ties for all ages. 1-block from Yellowstone National Park. Open 365days a year (GWDC bears DO NOT hibernate). 1-800-257-2570 pg 49

WYOMING HISTORICAL SITE & VISITOR CENTERCODY, WYOM ING

BUFFALO BILL DAM & VISITOR CENTER Open daily May 1-Sept.30. Free admission, enjoy views from the top of the dam. The cen-ter includes exhibits, a theater, a self-guided audio tour, bookstore,& restrooms. www.BBDVC.org Located 6 miles west of Cody on wayto Yellowstone. pg 37

WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS, PARTIESGRAND TARGHEE, WYOM ING

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons whereall activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44

JACKSON HOLE, WYOM INGJACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Full service resort in TetonVillage. Hotels, restaurants, lounges, recreation. 307-733-2292 pg 41NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for alltypes of occasions. www.noteworthymusicagency.com Call MikeCalabrese 307-733-5459 pg 21

P INEDALE , WYOM INGLAKESIDE LODGE & RESTAURANTHas meeting facilities to accom-modate up to 100 participants for your company meet-ing/convention, weddings, family reunions or other special events.Catering service is available. www.lakesidelodge.com, 1-877-755-LAKE(5253) / 307-367-2221 pg 51SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE MountainManCountry.com pg 46

REAL ESTATEJACKSON HOLE, WYOM ING

TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION Several Real Estate offices locatedin Teton Village. For a complete overview, pick up the Free VillageMix brochure in all Teton Village businesses or visit on-line atwww.gotetonvillage.com. pg 41

Du Noir River, Wyoming






http://www.trianglec.com





http://www.jacksonholewineandspirits.com

http://www.tetonsteakhouse.com/


http://www.erniesbakery.com













http://www.codyniterodeo.com

http://www.westbank.com






http://www.yellowstoneoutfitters.com/


http://www.bigotires.com






http://www.wildlifeexpeditions.org

http://www.bbdvc.org

http://www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org

http://www.museumofthemountainman.com

http://www.meetmeonthegreen.com




http://www.westbank.com/

• CODY • DUBOIS • JACKSON HOLE • RED LODGE • MAMMOTH • GARDINER • PINEDALE • WYOMING • IDAHO • MONTANA • YELLOWSTONE •

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INFORMATIONBOZEMAN, MONTANA

406-586-5421CODY, WYOMING

307-587-2297DUBOIS, WYOMING

307-455-2556GARDINER, MONTANA

406-848-7971GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK

307-739-3300JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING

307-733-3316LIVINGSTON, MONTANA

406-222-0850MEETEESE, WYOMING

307-868-2423PINEDALE, WYOMING

307-367-2242POWELL, WYOMING

307-754-3494RED LODGE, MONTANA

406-446-1718TETON VALLEY/DRIGGS, IDAHO

208-354-2500WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA

406-646-7701WIND RIVER VISITORS COUNCIL

800-645-6233YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

307-344-7381

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54 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2009 www. focusproduc t i ons . com

ON THE WES T S I D E O F TH E SQUAR E 733 - 3 279 JACKSON HOL E , WYOM INGLARGE GROUPS AND PART I E S AR E WE L COME

www. c a d i l l a c - g r i l l e . c om


Mountain Country Adventure Guide to Grand Teton and Yellowstone Region 2009

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Transcript of Mountain Country Adventure Guide to Grand Teton and Yellowstone Region 2009