MAKING AMosaicDorothy du Plessis

DESIGN,

TECHNIQUES

& PROJECTS

ContentsIntroduction 6

How and where to start 9

Mosaic design 13

Materials 17

Various surfaces 24

Tools 27

Adhesives and additives 31

Grout 34

Basic techniques 38The direct method 38The indirect method 41The net method 45

Projects 47Very easy light switch covers 48Earthy mirror frame 51Abstract mirror frame 54Mixed media mirror frames 57Very easy photo frames 60Thinking out of the box 62All sorts holders 66Glass candle holders 70Funky paisley 72House name 76House numbers 80Place mats 85Strip pavers 92Bunny pavers 96Table top 99Shower floor 103Broken crockery mosaics 110

38

Basic techniquesThere are traditionally two methods of making a mosaic; the direct method and the indirect method. However, I have also included the net method, which is another version of the direct method:

� The direct method – you work directly onto the chosen surface. It is suitable for surfaces that do not need to be level, for example, wall panels and mirror frames. The characteristic of a direct mosaic is the unevennes created by the differing thicknesses of the tiles, resulting in an uneven surface.

� The indirect method – your work is initially done on paper and then installed onto the final surface. This is for floors, tables, splash backs and place mats where the mosaicked surface has to be even, level and smooth.

� The net method – the work is done onto net first and then installed. This is suitable for awkward areas and cylindrical shapes, for example, pots.

The direct methodThis is when a suitable design is drawn onto a base (such as wood or concrete) and the mosaic pieces are cut to shape and then glued down one by one. Wood glue or a ready-mix tile adhesive, like tile flex (see Adhesives on page 31) is put onto each piece separately with an applicator and the pieces are glued face up directly onto the prepared base. Wood glue comes in easy-to-squeeze bottles, so use those to squeeze a drop of glue onto the backs of your tiles – then an applicator isn’t necessary.

This method is suitable for wall panels, expressive works of art, frames and anything that does not need a smooth surface. It is an exciting technique that is open to experimentation, so try using different textures and types of materials together.

STEPS FOR DIRECT METHOD1. Draw your design onto the surface you want to mosaic.

2. Mosaic the design or focal point first, then the border and, lastly, the background.

3. If it is an all-over design, do the border first and then work from one side of the design to the other, for example, from left to right. Always work consecutively, one piece following the next.

4. Using your tile nipper cut the first piece, shape and then glue it down. Cut, shape and glue…cut, shape and glue. Don’t cut and shape a whole lot of pieces and then try to glue them, as they tend to shift around and seldom fit as you intended. Fix them with glue immediately.

5. Repeat until your mosaic is complete.

TIPIf you are doing a crazy mosaic, where you are using a lot of triangles or shards, then cut a fair amount beforehand. With this method it’s a case of searching through the ready-cut pieces for the best fit.

62

Not all mosaics have to be complicated and planned to the hilt. There are times when simplicity rules, and this is what these planters are about…

The four containers in this project are all made using the same method – the net method – but I’ve tried to demonstrate variations achieved with different materials and design approaches. I’ve used the net method because I find it very awkward working on a surface that is not flat and stable.

A while back I was given a whole stack of square, 5-litre plastic containers (the type ice cream usually comes in) and, wanting to do a really quick, no-fuss mosaic, my mind turned to these. Instead of going out to buy plastic planters, why not turn these into attractive planters?

In my studio, I have mosaic funky flower inserts done on net that I make to sell. I also found broken mugs with cute cow motifs on them that someone had donated to me, plus ceramic fish which I had got from a friend. It was time to get creative! To demonstrate the use of really simple geometric shapes, I used mosaics from my ready-cut packets. I knew that I was working on unstable plastic bases so I used flexible tile adhesive to glue everything down.

5-litre plastic container/s

Brown craft paper/pencil

Mosaic/design items

Cling wrap or plastic

Net

Tile nippers

Wood glue

Craft knife

Drill

Bowl for water

Sponge and cloth

Spatula/applicator

Flexible tile adhesive

Board

Grout

Bonding liquid

Steel wool (optional)

Paint

Paintbrush

1. Start by measuring the circumference and the height of the container. On three of the containers that I mosaicked, I left the top border to be done after the main body was installed. I decided not to add a border to the yellow funky flower container.

2. Draw the outer dimensions on brown craft paper and divide this into four equal sections – the size equal to the four sides of the container. Now draw in the basic plan of your design. I placed the images down that I wanted to use, traced around and removed them, and then drew in a vague plan of what would be in the background.

3. Secure the brown paper on a stable board and cover with

cling wrap. Now secure the net on top of the cling wrap.

4. Glue down your images. The fish were glued down with

wood glue, as were images that I had cut from the broken mugs. However, these images were slightly curved so I cut them into smaller pieces

N ET M ET HOD

Thinking out of the box

66

I started this project by choosing my design and colours. I used references but adapted them for my purposes, adding my individual stamp. So I did some doodles and drawings and eventually decided on which ones to use.

Colouring in the design really helps when it comes to deciding what colours of mosaic tiles I should buy, scrounge from my collection, or search for from my sources. The coloured-in design is not set in stone; I make changes as I go along, because often I can’t get the exact hue or tone I imagine, so I have to compromise.

Thick cardboard tube

Paper

Pencil and coloured pencils

Ruler

Carbon paper

Net

Permanent marker

Board – slightly bigger than your paper

Cling film

Mosaic tiles in colours of your choice

Tile nippers

Paintbrush – for cleaning up shards

Wood glue

Flexible tile adhesive

Applicator

Grout

Sponge and cloth

1. Measure the area you are going to mosaic. Wrap a piece of paper around the tube and mark where it joins to indicate the circumference. Then measure the height and circumference marked on the paper with a ruler. Once you have the two measurements, draw the outer dimensions onto paper, reducing the measurements slightly to allow for expansion.

2. Choose a design of the correct size and, if not in colour, colour in the design with coloured pencils.

3. Trace the design onto the measured and marked paper using carbon paper. Secure the paper and carbon paper with

tape so that you can make an accurate copy.

4. Using a permanent marker, draw the outlines of your design, then draw in the flow of how you want to place your mosaic tiles, in pencil.

5. Secure this design onto the board, covering with secured cling-film and lastly, the net on top of that (also secured), giving you three layers. The cling film prevents the mosaic from sticking to the paper.

N ET M ET HOD

All sorts holders

85

Hot food is always better served on a warm plate, so protect your table from being scorched by hot plates by making these mosaic place mats. They are really versatile as they can also be used for hot serving dishes or as interesting and unusual décor pieces. As the surface for the plates – or serving dishes – needs to be smooth and level, I used the indirect method for these mosaics.

I N DI R EC T M ET HOD

Place mats

Framed base the size of a place mat

Brown craft paper

HB Pencil

Permanent marker

White cartridge paper

Wallpaper glue

Masking tape

2 boards slightly bigger than your mosaic

Mosaic tiles

Tile nippers

Sponge and cloth

Water container

Craft knife

Mosaic tile adhesive

Bonding liquid

Key coat

Spatula

Applicator

Sandpaper

Paint and paintbrush

Container with lid

Straight edge – to use as a leveller

Wooden float

Metal float

White grout

1. My base was fibre board onto which I secured a small wooden frame. If you use something like SupaWood, ensure that it is completely sealed to prevent water damage. The frame depth should be 8mm, as this is the average depth of mosaic tiles.

2. Take the inner measure-ments of the framed base and reduce this by 5mm all the way around to allow for expansion that takes place as the mosaic is installed. Transfer and draw this measurement onto brown craft paper (see page 13).

3. Inspired by one of my tablecloths, I designed my place mats on white cartridge paper because it is clearer to draw on than brown paper. I wanted to keep the colouring to whites and neutral shades.

4. To indicate the outlines of the design, I drew them in with a permanent marker. The piece division was drawn in pencil. This clarifies that the black lines are unchangeable

as these are important to the overall design. However, the pencil lines can change as the mosaic evolves. As I was using neutral colours, I decided not to colour in the design, but to just shade the variations I visualised with my HB pencil.

5. Using wallpaper glue, I pasted the white paper onto the brown craft paper, and

96

I N DI R EC T M ET HOD

A simple way of making garden pavers is to use moulds from the kitchen – like a plastic basin, a cake tin or even the plastic drip tray from a pot plant. Look around you; there are so many things that can be used as moulds! You just have to make sure they are deep enough – at least 50mm. Bear in mind that not all pavers have to be round or square (old, rectangular ice cream containers will also work) and a mould – be it wood or plastic – can be used over and over again.

The method I used is slightly more complicated than that described for the strip pavers, so follow these instructions carefully.

Mould of your choice

Petroleum jelly

Brown craft paper

Pencil

Permanent marker

Tiles of your choice

Tile nippers

Wallpaper glue

2 boards slightly bigger than your design

Plastic sheeting

Cement

Building sand

Bucket

Trowel

Chicken mesh

Newspaper

Sponge and cloth

Grout, waterproofing additive and applicator (optional)

1. Take measurements of your mould or container and transfer these to brown craft paper. Draw your design (mine was a bunny in a garden of flowers) and. Wrap the brown paper around a board and secure so that your mosaic does not move while you work.

2. Select the tiles you want to use. I used mosaic rounds for the flower centres.

3. Cut the tiles and glue them to the brown paper with wallpaper glue – this time with all the tiles the right way up (facing you) because you are going to use the double reverse method. I used a sheet of shaded tiles for the shading on the bunny. You may want to loosen all the tiles from the sheet, then arrange them in shades from light to dark so that you can choose the shade you need as you work.

Bunny pavers

MAKING A MOSAICDesign, techniques and projectsDorothy du Plessis

193 x 260 mm112 ppSoftcoverRRP: R200.00ISBN 978-1-928201-51-9Publication date: September 2015Available in Afrikaans: Doen mosaïek

ISBN 978-1-928201-52-6

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Dorothy du Plessis qualified in Textile Design and Technology which provided an excellent background for her special interest in mosaic art. After 13 years of running her own textile design business she started working in mosaics on a full time basis as principal designer for Mosaic Arts in Pretoria, dealing with everything from the design to the installation of commissioned mosaics. She now runs her own studio in Kenton-on-Sea, teaching, showcasing her current mosaic projects and working on a wide range of commissions.

Dorothy loves colour, line, texture and composition. She finds inspiration and peace in walking on the beach or in the veld, observing these elements in nature.

She coordinated the publication of Quin Sculptures: Sixty years of excellence, a book documenting the work of internationally acclaimed sculptor Maureen Quin.

METZ PRESSwww.metzpress .co.za

Have you been tinkering with mosaics for a while, but feel that you need to take it to the next level? Or are you a beginner looking for a challenge? Then this is the book you need. It looks at mosaics as an art form, where line, colour and texture all combine to produce beautiful works of art. The stunning photographs gracing every page are both inspiring and informative.

Starting out as a textile designer, the author recognises how important the choice of design is when you start a mosaic project. This book will teach you how to choose the right design and translate it into a template, allowing you to ‘paint’ with the mosaic tiles. The technical information supplied will guide you through the selection process of the right design, teach you about the various tiles available, surfaces to work on and which ones to choose for which conditions, materials and tools needed as well as the different mosaic techniques that can be used to complete your project. You will also find suggestions for alternatives if supplies are hard to find in your area.

The step-by-step projects are lovely and can be followed exactly, but the author urges crafters to make the projects their own and bring their own personality into them by playing around with colours and texture. The projects include big and small items for the home or to give as gifts, with alternative ideas and suggestions if you prefer a different look or feel.

Mosaics is so much more than just placing tiles next to each other and in this book you will discover just how rewarding this craft can be.