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Transcript of Mojave Creative Lab
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
Since 2009 Mojave Creative Lab has been creating innovative
designs in scientific method to ensure yoursquore stoked and your
market is moved
Mojave is a full service creative priding itself in unmatched
design incredible service and timely turn-arounds David has
art directed and designed publications with distribution well
over 50000 has had his work published on USA Today and has
branded events featuring the most notable people and companies
in the outdoor industry His work ranges from simple digital
campaigns to complex print publications tiny web ads to large
scale tradeshow graphics On any given day Mojave Creative Lab
produces advertising material websites email and social media
campaigns infographics branding material event collateral
tradeshow signage print collateral and more Good design
happens and is necessary everywhere For a quote contact David
at dboersmamojavecreativelabcom
[This page] David and his wife Tara drying off after a surf session Mondo Beach CA Gretchen Davis [Cover] Mountain Khakis ambassador Eric Bouwman and Patagonia Environmental Programs Associate Paul Hendricks slog up to base camp Uneva Pass CO David Boersma
Good design lands somewhere between the abstract and concrete worlds of art and science
ABOUT MOJAVE
PRINT DIGITAL
magazine layout websites
posters social
mailers e-newsletters
invitations presentations
tradeshow and loads more
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 1
David Boersma Art Director at Mojave Creative Lab has worked
on behalf of a multitude brands particularly in the outdoor and
travel industries This includes world-renowned brands Merrellreg
Otterboxreg Incasereg KbullSWISSreg REIreg Levirsquosreg New Era Capreg
Airwalkreg Obermeyerreg Filsonreg Cushereg Palladiumreg Above
The Rimreg Skiscom The American Alpine Club Travaasareg
Experiential Resorts Park Hyatt Beaver Creekreg The Brown
Palace Hotel amp Spareg and many more
When not laying out designs or scouring the world for the
latest trends like every other Coloradoan hersquos typically found
tucked away somewhere in the Rocky Mountains backpacking
snowboarding or climbing with his wife and two dogs cooler in
tow His daily routine didnrsquot always consist of of a low-key climb
and craft beer Prior to moving to Colorado David hiked much
of the Appalachian Trail and motorcycled the length of the Andes
Mountains throughout South America While now settled and
married he still tries to live his life in ways that continue to look
beyond the familiar
If yoursquod like to explore working with David contact him at
dboersmamojavecreativelabcom
ABOUT THE DAVID
[This page Top] David and his wife at his hometownrsquos first annual Pride Festival Holland MI [This page Bottom Left] School children Tanzania David Boersma [This page Bottom Right] Boy
fishing Zanzibar David Boersma [Facing Page] David leaving Machu Picchu Ollantaytambo Peru
My creative inspiration is the result of experiencing a world much bigger than myself
ldquo ldquo
2 | mojavecreativelabcom
mojavecreativelabcom | 3
CLIENTS
only a small selection of clients that Art Director David Boersma has done design work for
TRAVAASA EXPERIENTIAL RESORTS
NEW ERA CAP
EVO ROCK + FITNESS
KbullSWISS
INCASE
FILSON
REI
MERRELLSKISCOM
OTTERBOX
MOONLIGHT BASIN
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATION
AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING MUSEUM
PARADOX SPORTS
OBERMEYER
AIRWALK
One last fall crag day at Jurassic Park Colorado David Boersma
4 | mojavecreativelabcom
VIEW ONLINE
POURING DOWN
RISING UP
TWe had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible
Hulk the Harding Route on Keeler Needle and Dark Star on
Temple Crag I had dreamed about climbing these routes
since my infancy as a rock climber And this was the last of
Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness As we dropped
into one of the gullies to reach the base its sheer 1200rsquo
southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation
And there was one more reason Conness was last on
our ticklist
ldquoI guess we found the routerdquo I said to Luke pointing at
the Goodrich Memorial
ldquoLetrsquos just get it done withrdquo
In 1959 after Warren Hardingrsquos landmark ascent of
the Nose the southwest face of Mount Conness was a
logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers
If siege tactics could work on El Capitan why not this
overhanging alpine face Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter a
by Tony Chang photos by Ken Etzel
18 | Advocacy Advocacy | 19
to the challenge On his maiden attempt of the wall Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall
A few months later Harding Herb Swedlund and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent With Goodrichrsquos blood still staining the wall they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method lots of pitons drilled bolts and wine
We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess turning our 59 into something of a 510+ insecure slab But Luke the technician took it down with a smile
If you met him on the street yoursquod think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee California However under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple
3000rsquo+ climbing days in the Sierra Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school I had moved to Flagstaff Arizona primarily for school but also for the great access to local climbing Learning to climb in California my most memorable major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra Given our collective climbing backgrounds Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives
We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four Somehow we landed the grant and there we were on a massive alpine face our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10000 feet
Pitch 2 is the technical crux Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up Deal It was a wild bit of rock climbingmdashone of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof
Blistering sun hit me at 11 am as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth large crystals chewing through my skin Halfway up I placed my only 6 Camalot The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 58 a grade on which Irsquom considerably more comfortable Unfortunately the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam Awesome The remaining offwidth although semi-secure was not easy moving I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay blood soaking through the legs of my pants I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident
Luke rocketed up reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didnrsquot make it He led the last cruxmdashthe most intimidating part of the routemdasha steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney When Luke got there his last piece was a ways to his left with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it I kept the belay
DREAMLIVE YOUR
THE AAC GRANT FOR THE EVERY-DAY ADVENTURER
powered by
I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A
MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTldquo
tight and watched him take his time clearly tired from the week as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney I followed thankful I didnrsquot have to lead that terror show I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast
With the last hard pitch done we were elated All the suffering would soon be over The months of training had paid off There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining
Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures but the upper 3rd- and 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldnrsquot find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads
ldquoLooks like we got to the top just in time for a stormrdquo I said nodding to dark clouds circling above
ldquoNah itrsquos been like this all dayrdquo Ken replied ldquoBut it hasnrsquot done
anything on this side of the valleyrdquo He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo
Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke ldquoItrsquos these beetles that are around hererdquo Ken reassured uneasiness
in his voice ldquoIrsquove been hearing it all dayrdquoLuke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside His hair
was sticking on end face white eyes bulging ldquoI just felt a shock go through my spinerdquo he yelled as he made a mad
dash back down the talus We followed The buzzing was now almost deafening
ldquoDrop your gearrdquo Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain thunder echoing above
ldquoDammitrdquo I yelled over to the guys We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below so wersquod have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat Irsquod never been too concerned about lightning before having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country This was different I could see lightning striking less than a mile away closing in fast
ldquoGet that camera away from merdquo I yelled at Ken afraid that the metal could attract electricity Cold rain hit us we begin to shiver During a short break in the rain we made a run for the top The buzzing grew more intense and my arm hair came back to life ldquoNo Go back downrdquo
With lightning and virga drawing closer we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from I fell a few times on the summit talus and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly I considered trying the summit again but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down There was nothing to do but wait
[Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm bull [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness
20 | Advocacy Advocacy | 21
My mind was racing angry and confused We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it The irony Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing Live Your Dream More like Live Your Nightmare
It was 15 more minutes of misery shivering and fear before the storm broke This time the rain stopped We took the opportunity to make another run for the summitmdashno buzzing this time We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs High fives and cheers all around We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives
The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds and something changed I realized that this is what we had come for To experience the intensity and the doubt To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the ldquoreal worldrdquo Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks
We all love those bluebird days at the crag catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches but those arenrsquot the days you remember Itrsquos those times you had to bivy at 14000rsquo happy to be alive the next day Itrsquos those times when you canrsquot get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before Itrsquos the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive This was one of those memories one we will never forget
TONY CHANG bull Bozeman MT
Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons
BETAbull More than $30000 availablebull Apply January 1 ndash March 1bull Winners announced 4ndash6 weeks after application period endsbull All climbing disciplines welcomebull Apply through your local regionbull Max grant amounts of $1000
All climbers have dreams Let us help you live yours The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you the every-day adventurer take your abilities to the next level
LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT
americanalpinecluborgliveyourdream
[This Page Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit bull [This Page Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness bull [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await
22 | Advocacy Advocacy | 23
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
This is your Club These are your photos We are the AACWe are climbers stewards of the outdoors We are doers And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action doing what they love
Want to see your photos in next yearrsquos Guidebook to MembershipSend to photoamericanalpinecluborg
Indian Creek UT Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (511c) AAC member Niko Monteiro52 53
Bishop CA Jon Fait of Gibbon Slacklines representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Cragginrsquo Classic AAC staff member Jeff Deikis
Eastern Sierra CA Climb hard party harder AAC member Jeremy Dreier
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
54 55
1 Stansbury Island UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a
winter ascent No supplemental oxygen required AAC member Craig Armstrong
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
2
3
54
1
2 Little Rock City TN Whitney Boland Tenessee Thong (V7) AAC member Dan
Brayack
3 North Woodstock NH No pressure Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up
competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival AAC member Ian MacLellan
5 Yosemite National Park CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle
working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan AAC member Cheyne Lempe
4 Bartlett NH Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere 2013 Cragginrsquo
Classic AAC member Bryan Rafferty
60 61
TO MEMBERSHIPGUIDEBOOK
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB2014
For two years running David has art directed
and designed the American Alpine Clubrsquos
annual Guidebook to Membership a 100 page
archival quality publication In process he
has had the opportunity to work hand-
in-hand with some of the most reputable
photographers writers and companies
in the outdoor industry Supported in
advertising from Alpinist Adidas Five Ten
Black Diamond LOWA and Patagonia the
Guidebook to Membership sees an annual
print distribution of 30000 copies
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP
mojavecreativelabcom | 5
In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American
Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the
greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard
was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600
people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer
David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
CHOUINARD
O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B
PRESENTED BY
6 | mojavecreativelabcom
The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier
climbing organization in the United States With over 14000
members consistent support is key to its growth David
designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal
rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and
focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly
successful for the rapidly expanding organization
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
AAC member Andrew Burr
o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory
YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community
Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135
Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring
By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions
Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew
Call303-384-0110 x110
MailCompleted renewal form
RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]
Hi [INFORMAL]
This is your last mailing before your membership expires
Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today
Thanks for your support
Phil Powers Executive Director
TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE
mojavecreativelabcom | 7
As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on
biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership
As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding
phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt
prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile
and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the
112-year history of the Club
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN
FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP
For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included
AAC Member Corey Rich
MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)
Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS
VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL
LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT
[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM
bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership
bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community
LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt
DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM
7000
9000
11000
13000
Members
bus t-shirt campaign
2012
2011
2010
2009
2013
8 | mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
2 0 1 4
[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz
starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower
(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]
Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland
The big towers above Baronet (left) and
Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald
S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in
A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger
A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger
p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai
C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies
David Stevenson Book Reviews
David Wilkes In Memoriam
I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato
Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing
I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman
T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek
Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming
R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel
Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea
Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth
Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and
Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China
O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach
Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io
A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea
Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe
W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro
Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters
[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh
[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey
2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88
C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face
2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth
3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant
3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West
4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains
5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit
5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway
6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal
7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent
R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]
7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile
9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future
W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T
Douglas Beal lRichard Blum
Yvon ChouinardAnonymous
Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion
Ken Ehrhart
Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman
David KochMark Kroese
McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion
Peter Metcalf
AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC
Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs
Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton
Doug and Maggie Walker
G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P
$ 1 0 0 0 0 +
$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9
$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9
$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson
Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson
Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates
Gal i BehVaclav Benes
Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner
Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg
Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers
Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion
Robert J CampbellPeter Carter
Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell
Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson
Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey
David DingmanJennifer Dow MD
Jeff DozierRichard Draves
Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers
H Newcomb Eldredge
Stuart El l isonLee Elman
Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish
Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes
James FrankJames Frush
James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens
David GoeddelAnonymous
Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th
Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson
Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah
AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska
Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham
Leo LebonPaul Lego
Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman
Chris LynchBrent Manning
Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy
Peter McGannHacksaw
Paul MorrowTed Morton
Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips
James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope
Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt
Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick
Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph
Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw
Jay SmithGeorge N Smith
Brian SohnAllen Steck
Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer
Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen
Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy
Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi
Rob Ziegler
Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch
Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch
John CattoMike Coll ins
James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth
Jim EdwardsDan Emmett
Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i
Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l
Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD
Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr
George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous
Linda McMil lan
James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle
David OlsenCharles Peck
Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I
Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg
Bob StreetPaul Underwood
Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson
Keegan Young
Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby
Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks
Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l
Louis Kasischke
George McCownAmy Meredith
Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle
Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer
Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka
Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick
Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich
The Estate of Paul Wiseman
In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff
Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch
Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke
Dan CoxBi l l Cox
Phi l ip Erard
Jim FrushRyland Gardner
Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in
Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah
Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke
Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD
Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD
Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t
[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene
F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
mojavecreativelabcom | 9
In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American
Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many
of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold
Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended
by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic
Designer David has branded the entire event
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
10 | mojavecreativelabcom
Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City
Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were
Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage
posters gift cards and more
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN
ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi
JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM
Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only
Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)
Expires 93014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM
mojavecreativelabcom | 11
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
Since 2009 Mojave Creative Lab has been creating innovative
designs in scientific method to ensure yoursquore stoked and your
market is moved
Mojave is a full service creative priding itself in unmatched
design incredible service and timely turn-arounds David has
art directed and designed publications with distribution well
over 50000 has had his work published on USA Today and has
branded events featuring the most notable people and companies
in the outdoor industry His work ranges from simple digital
campaigns to complex print publications tiny web ads to large
scale tradeshow graphics On any given day Mojave Creative Lab
produces advertising material websites email and social media
campaigns infographics branding material event collateral
tradeshow signage print collateral and more Good design
happens and is necessary everywhere For a quote contact David
at dboersmamojavecreativelabcom
[This page] David and his wife Tara drying off after a surf session Mondo Beach CA Gretchen Davis [Cover] Mountain Khakis ambassador Eric Bouwman and Patagonia Environmental Programs Associate Paul Hendricks slog up to base camp Uneva Pass CO David Boersma
Good design lands somewhere between the abstract and concrete worlds of art and science
ABOUT MOJAVE
PRINT DIGITAL
magazine layout websites
posters social
mailers e-newsletters
invitations presentations
tradeshow and loads more
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 1
David Boersma Art Director at Mojave Creative Lab has worked
on behalf of a multitude brands particularly in the outdoor and
travel industries This includes world-renowned brands Merrellreg
Otterboxreg Incasereg KbullSWISSreg REIreg Levirsquosreg New Era Capreg
Airwalkreg Obermeyerreg Filsonreg Cushereg Palladiumreg Above
The Rimreg Skiscom The American Alpine Club Travaasareg
Experiential Resorts Park Hyatt Beaver Creekreg The Brown
Palace Hotel amp Spareg and many more
When not laying out designs or scouring the world for the
latest trends like every other Coloradoan hersquos typically found
tucked away somewhere in the Rocky Mountains backpacking
snowboarding or climbing with his wife and two dogs cooler in
tow His daily routine didnrsquot always consist of of a low-key climb
and craft beer Prior to moving to Colorado David hiked much
of the Appalachian Trail and motorcycled the length of the Andes
Mountains throughout South America While now settled and
married he still tries to live his life in ways that continue to look
beyond the familiar
If yoursquod like to explore working with David contact him at
dboersmamojavecreativelabcom
ABOUT THE DAVID
[This page Top] David and his wife at his hometownrsquos first annual Pride Festival Holland MI [This page Bottom Left] School children Tanzania David Boersma [This page Bottom Right] Boy
fishing Zanzibar David Boersma [Facing Page] David leaving Machu Picchu Ollantaytambo Peru
My creative inspiration is the result of experiencing a world much bigger than myself
ldquo ldquo
2 | mojavecreativelabcom
mojavecreativelabcom | 3
CLIENTS
only a small selection of clients that Art Director David Boersma has done design work for
TRAVAASA EXPERIENTIAL RESORTS
NEW ERA CAP
EVO ROCK + FITNESS
KbullSWISS
INCASE
FILSON
REI
MERRELLSKISCOM
OTTERBOX
MOONLIGHT BASIN
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATION
AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING MUSEUM
PARADOX SPORTS
OBERMEYER
AIRWALK
One last fall crag day at Jurassic Park Colorado David Boersma
4 | mojavecreativelabcom
VIEW ONLINE
POURING DOWN
RISING UP
TWe had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible
Hulk the Harding Route on Keeler Needle and Dark Star on
Temple Crag I had dreamed about climbing these routes
since my infancy as a rock climber And this was the last of
Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness As we dropped
into one of the gullies to reach the base its sheer 1200rsquo
southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation
And there was one more reason Conness was last on
our ticklist
ldquoI guess we found the routerdquo I said to Luke pointing at
the Goodrich Memorial
ldquoLetrsquos just get it done withrdquo
In 1959 after Warren Hardingrsquos landmark ascent of
the Nose the southwest face of Mount Conness was a
logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers
If siege tactics could work on El Capitan why not this
overhanging alpine face Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter a
by Tony Chang photos by Ken Etzel
18 | Advocacy Advocacy | 19
to the challenge On his maiden attempt of the wall Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall
A few months later Harding Herb Swedlund and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent With Goodrichrsquos blood still staining the wall they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method lots of pitons drilled bolts and wine
We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess turning our 59 into something of a 510+ insecure slab But Luke the technician took it down with a smile
If you met him on the street yoursquod think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee California However under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple
3000rsquo+ climbing days in the Sierra Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school I had moved to Flagstaff Arizona primarily for school but also for the great access to local climbing Learning to climb in California my most memorable major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra Given our collective climbing backgrounds Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives
We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four Somehow we landed the grant and there we were on a massive alpine face our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10000 feet
Pitch 2 is the technical crux Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up Deal It was a wild bit of rock climbingmdashone of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof
Blistering sun hit me at 11 am as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth large crystals chewing through my skin Halfway up I placed my only 6 Camalot The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 58 a grade on which Irsquom considerably more comfortable Unfortunately the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam Awesome The remaining offwidth although semi-secure was not easy moving I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay blood soaking through the legs of my pants I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident
Luke rocketed up reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didnrsquot make it He led the last cruxmdashthe most intimidating part of the routemdasha steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney When Luke got there his last piece was a ways to his left with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it I kept the belay
DREAMLIVE YOUR
THE AAC GRANT FOR THE EVERY-DAY ADVENTURER
powered by
I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A
MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTldquo
tight and watched him take his time clearly tired from the week as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney I followed thankful I didnrsquot have to lead that terror show I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast
With the last hard pitch done we were elated All the suffering would soon be over The months of training had paid off There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining
Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures but the upper 3rd- and 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldnrsquot find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads
ldquoLooks like we got to the top just in time for a stormrdquo I said nodding to dark clouds circling above
ldquoNah itrsquos been like this all dayrdquo Ken replied ldquoBut it hasnrsquot done
anything on this side of the valleyrdquo He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo
Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke ldquoItrsquos these beetles that are around hererdquo Ken reassured uneasiness
in his voice ldquoIrsquove been hearing it all dayrdquoLuke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside His hair
was sticking on end face white eyes bulging ldquoI just felt a shock go through my spinerdquo he yelled as he made a mad
dash back down the talus We followed The buzzing was now almost deafening
ldquoDrop your gearrdquo Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain thunder echoing above
ldquoDammitrdquo I yelled over to the guys We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below so wersquod have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat Irsquod never been too concerned about lightning before having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country This was different I could see lightning striking less than a mile away closing in fast
ldquoGet that camera away from merdquo I yelled at Ken afraid that the metal could attract electricity Cold rain hit us we begin to shiver During a short break in the rain we made a run for the top The buzzing grew more intense and my arm hair came back to life ldquoNo Go back downrdquo
With lightning and virga drawing closer we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from I fell a few times on the summit talus and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly I considered trying the summit again but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down There was nothing to do but wait
[Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm bull [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness
20 | Advocacy Advocacy | 21
My mind was racing angry and confused We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it The irony Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing Live Your Dream More like Live Your Nightmare
It was 15 more minutes of misery shivering and fear before the storm broke This time the rain stopped We took the opportunity to make another run for the summitmdashno buzzing this time We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs High fives and cheers all around We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives
The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds and something changed I realized that this is what we had come for To experience the intensity and the doubt To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the ldquoreal worldrdquo Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks
We all love those bluebird days at the crag catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches but those arenrsquot the days you remember Itrsquos those times you had to bivy at 14000rsquo happy to be alive the next day Itrsquos those times when you canrsquot get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before Itrsquos the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive This was one of those memories one we will never forget
TONY CHANG bull Bozeman MT
Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons
BETAbull More than $30000 availablebull Apply January 1 ndash March 1bull Winners announced 4ndash6 weeks after application period endsbull All climbing disciplines welcomebull Apply through your local regionbull Max grant amounts of $1000
All climbers have dreams Let us help you live yours The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you the every-day adventurer take your abilities to the next level
LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT
americanalpinecluborgliveyourdream
[This Page Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit bull [This Page Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness bull [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await
22 | Advocacy Advocacy | 23
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
This is your Club These are your photos We are the AACWe are climbers stewards of the outdoors We are doers And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action doing what they love
Want to see your photos in next yearrsquos Guidebook to MembershipSend to photoamericanalpinecluborg
Indian Creek UT Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (511c) AAC member Niko Monteiro52 53
Bishop CA Jon Fait of Gibbon Slacklines representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Cragginrsquo Classic AAC staff member Jeff Deikis
Eastern Sierra CA Climb hard party harder AAC member Jeremy Dreier
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
54 55
1 Stansbury Island UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a
winter ascent No supplemental oxygen required AAC member Craig Armstrong
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
2
3
54
1
2 Little Rock City TN Whitney Boland Tenessee Thong (V7) AAC member Dan
Brayack
3 North Woodstock NH No pressure Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up
competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival AAC member Ian MacLellan
5 Yosemite National Park CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle
working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan AAC member Cheyne Lempe
4 Bartlett NH Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere 2013 Cragginrsquo
Classic AAC member Bryan Rafferty
60 61
TO MEMBERSHIPGUIDEBOOK
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB2014
For two years running David has art directed
and designed the American Alpine Clubrsquos
annual Guidebook to Membership a 100 page
archival quality publication In process he
has had the opportunity to work hand-
in-hand with some of the most reputable
photographers writers and companies
in the outdoor industry Supported in
advertising from Alpinist Adidas Five Ten
Black Diamond LOWA and Patagonia the
Guidebook to Membership sees an annual
print distribution of 30000 copies
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP
mojavecreativelabcom | 5
In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American
Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the
greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard
was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600
people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer
David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
CHOUINARD
O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B
PRESENTED BY
6 | mojavecreativelabcom
The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier
climbing organization in the United States With over 14000
members consistent support is key to its growth David
designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal
rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and
focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly
successful for the rapidly expanding organization
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
AAC member Andrew Burr
o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory
YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community
Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135
Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring
By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions
Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew
Call303-384-0110 x110
MailCompleted renewal form
RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]
Hi [INFORMAL]
This is your last mailing before your membership expires
Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today
Thanks for your support
Phil Powers Executive Director
TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE
mojavecreativelabcom | 7
As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on
biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership
As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding
phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt
prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile
and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the
112-year history of the Club
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN
FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP
For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included
AAC Member Corey Rich
MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)
Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS
VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL
LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT
[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM
bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership
bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community
LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt
DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM
7000
9000
11000
13000
Members
bus t-shirt campaign
2012
2011
2010
2009
2013
8 | mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
2 0 1 4
[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz
starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower
(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]
Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland
The big towers above Baronet (left) and
Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald
S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in
A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger
A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger
p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai
C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies
David Stevenson Book Reviews
David Wilkes In Memoriam
I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato
Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing
I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman
T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek
Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming
R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel
Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea
Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth
Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and
Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China
O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach
Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io
A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea
Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe
W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro
Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters
[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh
[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey
2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88
C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face
2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth
3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant
3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West
4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains
5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit
5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway
6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal
7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent
R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]
7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile
9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future
W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T
Douglas Beal lRichard Blum
Yvon ChouinardAnonymous
Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion
Ken Ehrhart
Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman
David KochMark Kroese
McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion
Peter Metcalf
AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC
Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs
Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton
Doug and Maggie Walker
G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P
$ 1 0 0 0 0 +
$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9
$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9
$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson
Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson
Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates
Gal i BehVaclav Benes
Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner
Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg
Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers
Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion
Robert J CampbellPeter Carter
Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell
Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson
Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey
David DingmanJennifer Dow MD
Jeff DozierRichard Draves
Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers
H Newcomb Eldredge
Stuart El l isonLee Elman
Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish
Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes
James FrankJames Frush
James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens
David GoeddelAnonymous
Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th
Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson
Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah
AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska
Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham
Leo LebonPaul Lego
Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman
Chris LynchBrent Manning
Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy
Peter McGannHacksaw
Paul MorrowTed Morton
Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips
James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope
Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt
Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick
Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph
Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw
Jay SmithGeorge N Smith
Brian SohnAllen Steck
Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer
Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen
Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy
Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi
Rob Ziegler
Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch
Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch
John CattoMike Coll ins
James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth
Jim EdwardsDan Emmett
Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i
Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l
Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD
Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr
George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous
Linda McMil lan
James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle
David OlsenCharles Peck
Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I
Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg
Bob StreetPaul Underwood
Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson
Keegan Young
Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby
Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks
Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l
Louis Kasischke
George McCownAmy Meredith
Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle
Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer
Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka
Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick
Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich
The Estate of Paul Wiseman
In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff
Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch
Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke
Dan CoxBi l l Cox
Phi l ip Erard
Jim FrushRyland Gardner
Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in
Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah
Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke
Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD
Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD
Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t
[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene
F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
mojavecreativelabcom | 9
In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American
Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many
of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold
Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended
by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic
Designer David has branded the entire event
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
10 | mojavecreativelabcom
Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City
Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were
Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage
posters gift cards and more
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN
ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi
JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM
Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only
Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)
Expires 93014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM
mojavecreativelabcom | 11
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
David Boersma Art Director at Mojave Creative Lab has worked
on behalf of a multitude brands particularly in the outdoor and
travel industries This includes world-renowned brands Merrellreg
Otterboxreg Incasereg KbullSWISSreg REIreg Levirsquosreg New Era Capreg
Airwalkreg Obermeyerreg Filsonreg Cushereg Palladiumreg Above
The Rimreg Skiscom The American Alpine Club Travaasareg
Experiential Resorts Park Hyatt Beaver Creekreg The Brown
Palace Hotel amp Spareg and many more
When not laying out designs or scouring the world for the
latest trends like every other Coloradoan hersquos typically found
tucked away somewhere in the Rocky Mountains backpacking
snowboarding or climbing with his wife and two dogs cooler in
tow His daily routine didnrsquot always consist of of a low-key climb
and craft beer Prior to moving to Colorado David hiked much
of the Appalachian Trail and motorcycled the length of the Andes
Mountains throughout South America While now settled and
married he still tries to live his life in ways that continue to look
beyond the familiar
If yoursquod like to explore working with David contact him at
dboersmamojavecreativelabcom
ABOUT THE DAVID
[This page Top] David and his wife at his hometownrsquos first annual Pride Festival Holland MI [This page Bottom Left] School children Tanzania David Boersma [This page Bottom Right] Boy
fishing Zanzibar David Boersma [Facing Page] David leaving Machu Picchu Ollantaytambo Peru
My creative inspiration is the result of experiencing a world much bigger than myself
ldquo ldquo
2 | mojavecreativelabcom
mojavecreativelabcom | 3
CLIENTS
only a small selection of clients that Art Director David Boersma has done design work for
TRAVAASA EXPERIENTIAL RESORTS
NEW ERA CAP
EVO ROCK + FITNESS
KbullSWISS
INCASE
FILSON
REI
MERRELLSKISCOM
OTTERBOX
MOONLIGHT BASIN
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATION
AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING MUSEUM
PARADOX SPORTS
OBERMEYER
AIRWALK
One last fall crag day at Jurassic Park Colorado David Boersma
4 | mojavecreativelabcom
VIEW ONLINE
POURING DOWN
RISING UP
TWe had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible
Hulk the Harding Route on Keeler Needle and Dark Star on
Temple Crag I had dreamed about climbing these routes
since my infancy as a rock climber And this was the last of
Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness As we dropped
into one of the gullies to reach the base its sheer 1200rsquo
southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation
And there was one more reason Conness was last on
our ticklist
ldquoI guess we found the routerdquo I said to Luke pointing at
the Goodrich Memorial
ldquoLetrsquos just get it done withrdquo
In 1959 after Warren Hardingrsquos landmark ascent of
the Nose the southwest face of Mount Conness was a
logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers
If siege tactics could work on El Capitan why not this
overhanging alpine face Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter a
by Tony Chang photos by Ken Etzel
18 | Advocacy Advocacy | 19
to the challenge On his maiden attempt of the wall Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall
A few months later Harding Herb Swedlund and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent With Goodrichrsquos blood still staining the wall they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method lots of pitons drilled bolts and wine
We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess turning our 59 into something of a 510+ insecure slab But Luke the technician took it down with a smile
If you met him on the street yoursquod think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee California However under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple
3000rsquo+ climbing days in the Sierra Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school I had moved to Flagstaff Arizona primarily for school but also for the great access to local climbing Learning to climb in California my most memorable major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra Given our collective climbing backgrounds Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives
We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four Somehow we landed the grant and there we were on a massive alpine face our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10000 feet
Pitch 2 is the technical crux Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up Deal It was a wild bit of rock climbingmdashone of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof
Blistering sun hit me at 11 am as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth large crystals chewing through my skin Halfway up I placed my only 6 Camalot The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 58 a grade on which Irsquom considerably more comfortable Unfortunately the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam Awesome The remaining offwidth although semi-secure was not easy moving I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay blood soaking through the legs of my pants I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident
Luke rocketed up reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didnrsquot make it He led the last cruxmdashthe most intimidating part of the routemdasha steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney When Luke got there his last piece was a ways to his left with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it I kept the belay
DREAMLIVE YOUR
THE AAC GRANT FOR THE EVERY-DAY ADVENTURER
powered by
I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A
MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTldquo
tight and watched him take his time clearly tired from the week as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney I followed thankful I didnrsquot have to lead that terror show I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast
With the last hard pitch done we were elated All the suffering would soon be over The months of training had paid off There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining
Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures but the upper 3rd- and 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldnrsquot find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads
ldquoLooks like we got to the top just in time for a stormrdquo I said nodding to dark clouds circling above
ldquoNah itrsquos been like this all dayrdquo Ken replied ldquoBut it hasnrsquot done
anything on this side of the valleyrdquo He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo
Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke ldquoItrsquos these beetles that are around hererdquo Ken reassured uneasiness
in his voice ldquoIrsquove been hearing it all dayrdquoLuke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside His hair
was sticking on end face white eyes bulging ldquoI just felt a shock go through my spinerdquo he yelled as he made a mad
dash back down the talus We followed The buzzing was now almost deafening
ldquoDrop your gearrdquo Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain thunder echoing above
ldquoDammitrdquo I yelled over to the guys We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below so wersquod have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat Irsquod never been too concerned about lightning before having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country This was different I could see lightning striking less than a mile away closing in fast
ldquoGet that camera away from merdquo I yelled at Ken afraid that the metal could attract electricity Cold rain hit us we begin to shiver During a short break in the rain we made a run for the top The buzzing grew more intense and my arm hair came back to life ldquoNo Go back downrdquo
With lightning and virga drawing closer we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from I fell a few times on the summit talus and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly I considered trying the summit again but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down There was nothing to do but wait
[Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm bull [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness
20 | Advocacy Advocacy | 21
My mind was racing angry and confused We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it The irony Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing Live Your Dream More like Live Your Nightmare
It was 15 more minutes of misery shivering and fear before the storm broke This time the rain stopped We took the opportunity to make another run for the summitmdashno buzzing this time We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs High fives and cheers all around We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives
The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds and something changed I realized that this is what we had come for To experience the intensity and the doubt To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the ldquoreal worldrdquo Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks
We all love those bluebird days at the crag catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches but those arenrsquot the days you remember Itrsquos those times you had to bivy at 14000rsquo happy to be alive the next day Itrsquos those times when you canrsquot get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before Itrsquos the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive This was one of those memories one we will never forget
TONY CHANG bull Bozeman MT
Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons
BETAbull More than $30000 availablebull Apply January 1 ndash March 1bull Winners announced 4ndash6 weeks after application period endsbull All climbing disciplines welcomebull Apply through your local regionbull Max grant amounts of $1000
All climbers have dreams Let us help you live yours The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you the every-day adventurer take your abilities to the next level
LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT
americanalpinecluborgliveyourdream
[This Page Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit bull [This Page Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness bull [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await
22 | Advocacy Advocacy | 23
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
This is your Club These are your photos We are the AACWe are climbers stewards of the outdoors We are doers And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action doing what they love
Want to see your photos in next yearrsquos Guidebook to MembershipSend to photoamericanalpinecluborg
Indian Creek UT Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (511c) AAC member Niko Monteiro52 53
Bishop CA Jon Fait of Gibbon Slacklines representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Cragginrsquo Classic AAC staff member Jeff Deikis
Eastern Sierra CA Climb hard party harder AAC member Jeremy Dreier
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
54 55
1 Stansbury Island UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a
winter ascent No supplemental oxygen required AAC member Craig Armstrong
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
2
3
54
1
2 Little Rock City TN Whitney Boland Tenessee Thong (V7) AAC member Dan
Brayack
3 North Woodstock NH No pressure Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up
competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival AAC member Ian MacLellan
5 Yosemite National Park CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle
working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan AAC member Cheyne Lempe
4 Bartlett NH Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere 2013 Cragginrsquo
Classic AAC member Bryan Rafferty
60 61
TO MEMBERSHIPGUIDEBOOK
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB2014
For two years running David has art directed
and designed the American Alpine Clubrsquos
annual Guidebook to Membership a 100 page
archival quality publication In process he
has had the opportunity to work hand-
in-hand with some of the most reputable
photographers writers and companies
in the outdoor industry Supported in
advertising from Alpinist Adidas Five Ten
Black Diamond LOWA and Patagonia the
Guidebook to Membership sees an annual
print distribution of 30000 copies
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP
mojavecreativelabcom | 5
In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American
Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the
greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard
was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600
people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer
David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
CHOUINARD
O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B
PRESENTED BY
6 | mojavecreativelabcom
The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier
climbing organization in the United States With over 14000
members consistent support is key to its growth David
designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal
rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and
focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly
successful for the rapidly expanding organization
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
AAC member Andrew Burr
o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory
YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community
Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135
Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring
By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions
Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew
Call303-384-0110 x110
MailCompleted renewal form
RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]
Hi [INFORMAL]
This is your last mailing before your membership expires
Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today
Thanks for your support
Phil Powers Executive Director
TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE
mojavecreativelabcom | 7
As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on
biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership
As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding
phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt
prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile
and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the
112-year history of the Club
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN
FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP
For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included
AAC Member Corey Rich
MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)
Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS
VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL
LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT
[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM
bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership
bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community
LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt
DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM
7000
9000
11000
13000
Members
bus t-shirt campaign
2012
2011
2010
2009
2013
8 | mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
2 0 1 4
[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz
starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower
(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]
Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland
The big towers above Baronet (left) and
Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald
S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in
A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger
A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger
p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai
C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies
David Stevenson Book Reviews
David Wilkes In Memoriam
I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato
Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing
I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman
T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek
Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming
R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel
Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea
Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth
Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and
Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China
O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach
Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io
A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea
Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe
W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro
Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters
[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh
[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey
2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88
C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face
2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth
3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant
3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West
4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains
5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit
5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway
6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal
7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent
R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]
7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile
9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future
W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T
Douglas Beal lRichard Blum
Yvon ChouinardAnonymous
Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion
Ken Ehrhart
Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman
David KochMark Kroese
McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion
Peter Metcalf
AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC
Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs
Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton
Doug and Maggie Walker
G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P
$ 1 0 0 0 0 +
$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9
$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9
$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson
Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson
Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates
Gal i BehVaclav Benes
Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner
Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg
Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers
Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion
Robert J CampbellPeter Carter
Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell
Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson
Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey
David DingmanJennifer Dow MD
Jeff DozierRichard Draves
Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers
H Newcomb Eldredge
Stuart El l isonLee Elman
Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish
Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes
James FrankJames Frush
James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens
David GoeddelAnonymous
Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th
Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson
Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah
AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska
Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham
Leo LebonPaul Lego
Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman
Chris LynchBrent Manning
Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy
Peter McGannHacksaw
Paul MorrowTed Morton
Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips
James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope
Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt
Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick
Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph
Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw
Jay SmithGeorge N Smith
Brian SohnAllen Steck
Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer
Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen
Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy
Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi
Rob Ziegler
Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch
Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch
John CattoMike Coll ins
James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth
Jim EdwardsDan Emmett
Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i
Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l
Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD
Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr
George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous
Linda McMil lan
James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle
David OlsenCharles Peck
Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I
Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg
Bob StreetPaul Underwood
Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson
Keegan Young
Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby
Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks
Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l
Louis Kasischke
George McCownAmy Meredith
Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle
Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer
Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka
Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick
Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich
The Estate of Paul Wiseman
In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff
Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch
Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke
Dan CoxBi l l Cox
Phi l ip Erard
Jim FrushRyland Gardner
Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in
Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah
Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke
Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD
Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD
Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t
[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene
F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
mojavecreativelabcom | 9
In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American
Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many
of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold
Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended
by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic
Designer David has branded the entire event
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
10 | mojavecreativelabcom
Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City
Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were
Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage
posters gift cards and more
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN
ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi
JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM
Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only
Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)
Expires 93014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM
mojavecreativelabcom | 11
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
mojavecreativelabcom | 3
CLIENTS
only a small selection of clients that Art Director David Boersma has done design work for
TRAVAASA EXPERIENTIAL RESORTS
NEW ERA CAP
EVO ROCK + FITNESS
KbullSWISS
INCASE
FILSON
REI
MERRELLSKISCOM
OTTERBOX
MOONLIGHT BASIN
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATION
AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING MUSEUM
PARADOX SPORTS
OBERMEYER
AIRWALK
One last fall crag day at Jurassic Park Colorado David Boersma
4 | mojavecreativelabcom
VIEW ONLINE
POURING DOWN
RISING UP
TWe had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible
Hulk the Harding Route on Keeler Needle and Dark Star on
Temple Crag I had dreamed about climbing these routes
since my infancy as a rock climber And this was the last of
Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness As we dropped
into one of the gullies to reach the base its sheer 1200rsquo
southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation
And there was one more reason Conness was last on
our ticklist
ldquoI guess we found the routerdquo I said to Luke pointing at
the Goodrich Memorial
ldquoLetrsquos just get it done withrdquo
In 1959 after Warren Hardingrsquos landmark ascent of
the Nose the southwest face of Mount Conness was a
logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers
If siege tactics could work on El Capitan why not this
overhanging alpine face Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter a
by Tony Chang photos by Ken Etzel
18 | Advocacy Advocacy | 19
to the challenge On his maiden attempt of the wall Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall
A few months later Harding Herb Swedlund and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent With Goodrichrsquos blood still staining the wall they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method lots of pitons drilled bolts and wine
We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess turning our 59 into something of a 510+ insecure slab But Luke the technician took it down with a smile
If you met him on the street yoursquod think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee California However under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple
3000rsquo+ climbing days in the Sierra Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school I had moved to Flagstaff Arizona primarily for school but also for the great access to local climbing Learning to climb in California my most memorable major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra Given our collective climbing backgrounds Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives
We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four Somehow we landed the grant and there we were on a massive alpine face our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10000 feet
Pitch 2 is the technical crux Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up Deal It was a wild bit of rock climbingmdashone of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof
Blistering sun hit me at 11 am as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth large crystals chewing through my skin Halfway up I placed my only 6 Camalot The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 58 a grade on which Irsquom considerably more comfortable Unfortunately the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam Awesome The remaining offwidth although semi-secure was not easy moving I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay blood soaking through the legs of my pants I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident
Luke rocketed up reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didnrsquot make it He led the last cruxmdashthe most intimidating part of the routemdasha steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney When Luke got there his last piece was a ways to his left with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it I kept the belay
DREAMLIVE YOUR
THE AAC GRANT FOR THE EVERY-DAY ADVENTURER
powered by
I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A
MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTldquo
tight and watched him take his time clearly tired from the week as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney I followed thankful I didnrsquot have to lead that terror show I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast
With the last hard pitch done we were elated All the suffering would soon be over The months of training had paid off There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining
Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures but the upper 3rd- and 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldnrsquot find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads
ldquoLooks like we got to the top just in time for a stormrdquo I said nodding to dark clouds circling above
ldquoNah itrsquos been like this all dayrdquo Ken replied ldquoBut it hasnrsquot done
anything on this side of the valleyrdquo He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo
Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke ldquoItrsquos these beetles that are around hererdquo Ken reassured uneasiness
in his voice ldquoIrsquove been hearing it all dayrdquoLuke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside His hair
was sticking on end face white eyes bulging ldquoI just felt a shock go through my spinerdquo he yelled as he made a mad
dash back down the talus We followed The buzzing was now almost deafening
ldquoDrop your gearrdquo Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain thunder echoing above
ldquoDammitrdquo I yelled over to the guys We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below so wersquod have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat Irsquod never been too concerned about lightning before having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country This was different I could see lightning striking less than a mile away closing in fast
ldquoGet that camera away from merdquo I yelled at Ken afraid that the metal could attract electricity Cold rain hit us we begin to shiver During a short break in the rain we made a run for the top The buzzing grew more intense and my arm hair came back to life ldquoNo Go back downrdquo
With lightning and virga drawing closer we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from I fell a few times on the summit talus and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly I considered trying the summit again but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down There was nothing to do but wait
[Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm bull [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness
20 | Advocacy Advocacy | 21
My mind was racing angry and confused We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it The irony Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing Live Your Dream More like Live Your Nightmare
It was 15 more minutes of misery shivering and fear before the storm broke This time the rain stopped We took the opportunity to make another run for the summitmdashno buzzing this time We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs High fives and cheers all around We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives
The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds and something changed I realized that this is what we had come for To experience the intensity and the doubt To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the ldquoreal worldrdquo Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks
We all love those bluebird days at the crag catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches but those arenrsquot the days you remember Itrsquos those times you had to bivy at 14000rsquo happy to be alive the next day Itrsquos those times when you canrsquot get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before Itrsquos the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive This was one of those memories one we will never forget
TONY CHANG bull Bozeman MT
Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons
BETAbull More than $30000 availablebull Apply January 1 ndash March 1bull Winners announced 4ndash6 weeks after application period endsbull All climbing disciplines welcomebull Apply through your local regionbull Max grant amounts of $1000
All climbers have dreams Let us help you live yours The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you the every-day adventurer take your abilities to the next level
LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT
americanalpinecluborgliveyourdream
[This Page Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit bull [This Page Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness bull [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await
22 | Advocacy Advocacy | 23
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
This is your Club These are your photos We are the AACWe are climbers stewards of the outdoors We are doers And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action doing what they love
Want to see your photos in next yearrsquos Guidebook to MembershipSend to photoamericanalpinecluborg
Indian Creek UT Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (511c) AAC member Niko Monteiro52 53
Bishop CA Jon Fait of Gibbon Slacklines representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Cragginrsquo Classic AAC staff member Jeff Deikis
Eastern Sierra CA Climb hard party harder AAC member Jeremy Dreier
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
54 55
1 Stansbury Island UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a
winter ascent No supplemental oxygen required AAC member Craig Armstrong
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
2
3
54
1
2 Little Rock City TN Whitney Boland Tenessee Thong (V7) AAC member Dan
Brayack
3 North Woodstock NH No pressure Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up
competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival AAC member Ian MacLellan
5 Yosemite National Park CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle
working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan AAC member Cheyne Lempe
4 Bartlett NH Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere 2013 Cragginrsquo
Classic AAC member Bryan Rafferty
60 61
TO MEMBERSHIPGUIDEBOOK
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB2014
For two years running David has art directed
and designed the American Alpine Clubrsquos
annual Guidebook to Membership a 100 page
archival quality publication In process he
has had the opportunity to work hand-
in-hand with some of the most reputable
photographers writers and companies
in the outdoor industry Supported in
advertising from Alpinist Adidas Five Ten
Black Diamond LOWA and Patagonia the
Guidebook to Membership sees an annual
print distribution of 30000 copies
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP
mojavecreativelabcom | 5
In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American
Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the
greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard
was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600
people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer
David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
CHOUINARD
O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B
PRESENTED BY
6 | mojavecreativelabcom
The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier
climbing organization in the United States With over 14000
members consistent support is key to its growth David
designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal
rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and
focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly
successful for the rapidly expanding organization
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
AAC member Andrew Burr
o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory
YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community
Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135
Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring
By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions
Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew
Call303-384-0110 x110
MailCompleted renewal form
RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]
Hi [INFORMAL]
This is your last mailing before your membership expires
Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today
Thanks for your support
Phil Powers Executive Director
TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE
mojavecreativelabcom | 7
As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on
biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership
As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding
phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt
prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile
and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the
112-year history of the Club
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN
FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP
For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included
AAC Member Corey Rich
MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)
Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS
VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL
LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT
[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM
bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership
bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community
LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt
DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM
7000
9000
11000
13000
Members
bus t-shirt campaign
2012
2011
2010
2009
2013
8 | mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
2 0 1 4
[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz
starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower
(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]
Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland
The big towers above Baronet (left) and
Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald
S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in
A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger
A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger
p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai
C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies
David Stevenson Book Reviews
David Wilkes In Memoriam
I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato
Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing
I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman
T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek
Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming
R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel
Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea
Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth
Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and
Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China
O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach
Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io
A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea
Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe
W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro
Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters
[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh
[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey
2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88
C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face
2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth
3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant
3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West
4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains
5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit
5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway
6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal
7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent
R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]
7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile
9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future
W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T
Douglas Beal lRichard Blum
Yvon ChouinardAnonymous
Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion
Ken Ehrhart
Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman
David KochMark Kroese
McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion
Peter Metcalf
AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC
Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs
Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton
Doug and Maggie Walker
G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P
$ 1 0 0 0 0 +
$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9
$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9
$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson
Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson
Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates
Gal i BehVaclav Benes
Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner
Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg
Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers
Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion
Robert J CampbellPeter Carter
Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell
Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson
Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey
David DingmanJennifer Dow MD
Jeff DozierRichard Draves
Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers
H Newcomb Eldredge
Stuart El l isonLee Elman
Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish
Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes
James FrankJames Frush
James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens
David GoeddelAnonymous
Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th
Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson
Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah
AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska
Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham
Leo LebonPaul Lego
Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman
Chris LynchBrent Manning
Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy
Peter McGannHacksaw
Paul MorrowTed Morton
Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips
James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope
Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt
Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick
Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph
Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw
Jay SmithGeorge N Smith
Brian SohnAllen Steck
Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer
Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen
Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy
Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi
Rob Ziegler
Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch
Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch
John CattoMike Coll ins
James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth
Jim EdwardsDan Emmett
Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i
Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l
Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD
Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr
George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous
Linda McMil lan
James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle
David OlsenCharles Peck
Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I
Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg
Bob StreetPaul Underwood
Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson
Keegan Young
Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby
Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks
Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l
Louis Kasischke
George McCownAmy Meredith
Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle
Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer
Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka
Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick
Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich
The Estate of Paul Wiseman
In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff
Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch
Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke
Dan CoxBi l l Cox
Phi l ip Erard
Jim FrushRyland Gardner
Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in
Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah
Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke
Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD
Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD
Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t
[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene
F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
mojavecreativelabcom | 9
In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American
Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many
of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold
Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended
by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic
Designer David has branded the entire event
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
10 | mojavecreativelabcom
Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City
Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were
Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage
posters gift cards and more
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN
ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi
JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM
Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only
Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)
Expires 93014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM
mojavecreativelabcom | 11
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
CLIENTS
only a small selection of clients that Art Director David Boersma has done design work for
TRAVAASA EXPERIENTIAL RESORTS
NEW ERA CAP
EVO ROCK + FITNESS
KbullSWISS
INCASE
FILSON
REI
MERRELLSKISCOM
OTTERBOX
MOONLIGHT BASIN
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATION
AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING MUSEUM
PARADOX SPORTS
OBERMEYER
AIRWALK
One last fall crag day at Jurassic Park Colorado David Boersma
4 | mojavecreativelabcom
VIEW ONLINE
POURING DOWN
RISING UP
TWe had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible
Hulk the Harding Route on Keeler Needle and Dark Star on
Temple Crag I had dreamed about climbing these routes
since my infancy as a rock climber And this was the last of
Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness As we dropped
into one of the gullies to reach the base its sheer 1200rsquo
southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation
And there was one more reason Conness was last on
our ticklist
ldquoI guess we found the routerdquo I said to Luke pointing at
the Goodrich Memorial
ldquoLetrsquos just get it done withrdquo
In 1959 after Warren Hardingrsquos landmark ascent of
the Nose the southwest face of Mount Conness was a
logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers
If siege tactics could work on El Capitan why not this
overhanging alpine face Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter a
by Tony Chang photos by Ken Etzel
18 | Advocacy Advocacy | 19
to the challenge On his maiden attempt of the wall Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall
A few months later Harding Herb Swedlund and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent With Goodrichrsquos blood still staining the wall they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method lots of pitons drilled bolts and wine
We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess turning our 59 into something of a 510+ insecure slab But Luke the technician took it down with a smile
If you met him on the street yoursquod think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee California However under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple
3000rsquo+ climbing days in the Sierra Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school I had moved to Flagstaff Arizona primarily for school but also for the great access to local climbing Learning to climb in California my most memorable major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra Given our collective climbing backgrounds Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives
We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four Somehow we landed the grant and there we were on a massive alpine face our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10000 feet
Pitch 2 is the technical crux Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up Deal It was a wild bit of rock climbingmdashone of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof
Blistering sun hit me at 11 am as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth large crystals chewing through my skin Halfway up I placed my only 6 Camalot The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 58 a grade on which Irsquom considerably more comfortable Unfortunately the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam Awesome The remaining offwidth although semi-secure was not easy moving I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay blood soaking through the legs of my pants I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident
Luke rocketed up reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didnrsquot make it He led the last cruxmdashthe most intimidating part of the routemdasha steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney When Luke got there his last piece was a ways to his left with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it I kept the belay
DREAMLIVE YOUR
THE AAC GRANT FOR THE EVERY-DAY ADVENTURER
powered by
I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A
MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTldquo
tight and watched him take his time clearly tired from the week as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney I followed thankful I didnrsquot have to lead that terror show I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast
With the last hard pitch done we were elated All the suffering would soon be over The months of training had paid off There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining
Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures but the upper 3rd- and 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldnrsquot find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads
ldquoLooks like we got to the top just in time for a stormrdquo I said nodding to dark clouds circling above
ldquoNah itrsquos been like this all dayrdquo Ken replied ldquoBut it hasnrsquot done
anything on this side of the valleyrdquo He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo
Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke ldquoItrsquos these beetles that are around hererdquo Ken reassured uneasiness
in his voice ldquoIrsquove been hearing it all dayrdquoLuke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside His hair
was sticking on end face white eyes bulging ldquoI just felt a shock go through my spinerdquo he yelled as he made a mad
dash back down the talus We followed The buzzing was now almost deafening
ldquoDrop your gearrdquo Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain thunder echoing above
ldquoDammitrdquo I yelled over to the guys We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below so wersquod have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat Irsquod never been too concerned about lightning before having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country This was different I could see lightning striking less than a mile away closing in fast
ldquoGet that camera away from merdquo I yelled at Ken afraid that the metal could attract electricity Cold rain hit us we begin to shiver During a short break in the rain we made a run for the top The buzzing grew more intense and my arm hair came back to life ldquoNo Go back downrdquo
With lightning and virga drawing closer we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from I fell a few times on the summit talus and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly I considered trying the summit again but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down There was nothing to do but wait
[Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm bull [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness
20 | Advocacy Advocacy | 21
My mind was racing angry and confused We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it The irony Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing Live Your Dream More like Live Your Nightmare
It was 15 more minutes of misery shivering and fear before the storm broke This time the rain stopped We took the opportunity to make another run for the summitmdashno buzzing this time We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs High fives and cheers all around We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives
The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds and something changed I realized that this is what we had come for To experience the intensity and the doubt To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the ldquoreal worldrdquo Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks
We all love those bluebird days at the crag catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches but those arenrsquot the days you remember Itrsquos those times you had to bivy at 14000rsquo happy to be alive the next day Itrsquos those times when you canrsquot get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before Itrsquos the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive This was one of those memories one we will never forget
TONY CHANG bull Bozeman MT
Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons
BETAbull More than $30000 availablebull Apply January 1 ndash March 1bull Winners announced 4ndash6 weeks after application period endsbull All climbing disciplines welcomebull Apply through your local regionbull Max grant amounts of $1000
All climbers have dreams Let us help you live yours The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you the every-day adventurer take your abilities to the next level
LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT
americanalpinecluborgliveyourdream
[This Page Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit bull [This Page Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness bull [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await
22 | Advocacy Advocacy | 23
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
This is your Club These are your photos We are the AACWe are climbers stewards of the outdoors We are doers And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action doing what they love
Want to see your photos in next yearrsquos Guidebook to MembershipSend to photoamericanalpinecluborg
Indian Creek UT Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (511c) AAC member Niko Monteiro52 53
Bishop CA Jon Fait of Gibbon Slacklines representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Cragginrsquo Classic AAC staff member Jeff Deikis
Eastern Sierra CA Climb hard party harder AAC member Jeremy Dreier
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
54 55
1 Stansbury Island UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a
winter ascent No supplemental oxygen required AAC member Craig Armstrong
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
2
3
54
1
2 Little Rock City TN Whitney Boland Tenessee Thong (V7) AAC member Dan
Brayack
3 North Woodstock NH No pressure Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up
competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival AAC member Ian MacLellan
5 Yosemite National Park CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle
working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan AAC member Cheyne Lempe
4 Bartlett NH Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere 2013 Cragginrsquo
Classic AAC member Bryan Rafferty
60 61
TO MEMBERSHIPGUIDEBOOK
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB2014
For two years running David has art directed
and designed the American Alpine Clubrsquos
annual Guidebook to Membership a 100 page
archival quality publication In process he
has had the opportunity to work hand-
in-hand with some of the most reputable
photographers writers and companies
in the outdoor industry Supported in
advertising from Alpinist Adidas Five Ten
Black Diamond LOWA and Patagonia the
Guidebook to Membership sees an annual
print distribution of 30000 copies
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP
mojavecreativelabcom | 5
In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American
Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the
greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard
was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600
people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer
David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
CHOUINARD
O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B
PRESENTED BY
6 | mojavecreativelabcom
The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier
climbing organization in the United States With over 14000
members consistent support is key to its growth David
designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal
rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and
focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly
successful for the rapidly expanding organization
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
AAC member Andrew Burr
o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory
YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community
Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135
Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring
By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions
Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew
Call303-384-0110 x110
MailCompleted renewal form
RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]
Hi [INFORMAL]
This is your last mailing before your membership expires
Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today
Thanks for your support
Phil Powers Executive Director
TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE
mojavecreativelabcom | 7
As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on
biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership
As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding
phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt
prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile
and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the
112-year history of the Club
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN
FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP
For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included
AAC Member Corey Rich
MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)
Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS
VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL
LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT
[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM
bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership
bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community
LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt
DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM
7000
9000
11000
13000
Members
bus t-shirt campaign
2012
2011
2010
2009
2013
8 | mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
2 0 1 4
[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz
starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower
(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]
Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland
The big towers above Baronet (left) and
Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald
S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in
A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger
A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger
p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai
C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies
David Stevenson Book Reviews
David Wilkes In Memoriam
I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato
Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing
I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman
T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek
Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming
R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel
Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea
Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth
Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and
Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China
O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach
Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io
A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea
Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe
W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro
Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters
[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh
[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey
2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88
C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face
2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth
3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant
3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West
4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains
5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit
5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway
6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal
7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent
R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]
7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile
9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future
W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T
Douglas Beal lRichard Blum
Yvon ChouinardAnonymous
Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion
Ken Ehrhart
Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman
David KochMark Kroese
McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion
Peter Metcalf
AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC
Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs
Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton
Doug and Maggie Walker
G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P
$ 1 0 0 0 0 +
$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9
$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9
$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson
Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson
Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates
Gal i BehVaclav Benes
Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner
Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg
Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers
Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion
Robert J CampbellPeter Carter
Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell
Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson
Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey
David DingmanJennifer Dow MD
Jeff DozierRichard Draves
Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers
H Newcomb Eldredge
Stuart El l isonLee Elman
Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish
Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes
James FrankJames Frush
James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens
David GoeddelAnonymous
Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th
Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson
Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah
AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska
Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham
Leo LebonPaul Lego
Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman
Chris LynchBrent Manning
Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy
Peter McGannHacksaw
Paul MorrowTed Morton
Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips
James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope
Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt
Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick
Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph
Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw
Jay SmithGeorge N Smith
Brian SohnAllen Steck
Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer
Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen
Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy
Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi
Rob Ziegler
Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch
Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch
John CattoMike Coll ins
James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth
Jim EdwardsDan Emmett
Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i
Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l
Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD
Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr
George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous
Linda McMil lan
James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle
David OlsenCharles Peck
Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I
Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg
Bob StreetPaul Underwood
Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson
Keegan Young
Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby
Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks
Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l
Louis Kasischke
George McCownAmy Meredith
Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle
Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer
Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka
Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick
Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich
The Estate of Paul Wiseman
In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff
Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch
Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke
Dan CoxBi l l Cox
Phi l ip Erard
Jim FrushRyland Gardner
Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in
Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah
Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke
Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD
Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD
Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t
[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene
F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
mojavecreativelabcom | 9
In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American
Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many
of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold
Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended
by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic
Designer David has branded the entire event
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
10 | mojavecreativelabcom
Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City
Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were
Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage
posters gift cards and more
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN
ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi
JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM
Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only
Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)
Expires 93014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM
mojavecreativelabcom | 11
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
VIEW ONLINE
POURING DOWN
RISING UP
TWe had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible
Hulk the Harding Route on Keeler Needle and Dark Star on
Temple Crag I had dreamed about climbing these routes
since my infancy as a rock climber And this was the last of
Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness As we dropped
into one of the gullies to reach the base its sheer 1200rsquo
southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation
And there was one more reason Conness was last on
our ticklist
ldquoI guess we found the routerdquo I said to Luke pointing at
the Goodrich Memorial
ldquoLetrsquos just get it done withrdquo
In 1959 after Warren Hardingrsquos landmark ascent of
the Nose the southwest face of Mount Conness was a
logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers
If siege tactics could work on El Capitan why not this
overhanging alpine face Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter a
by Tony Chang photos by Ken Etzel
18 | Advocacy Advocacy | 19
to the challenge On his maiden attempt of the wall Goodrich pulled a huge block off the second pitch Although he jumped free when the block pulled outward it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall
A few months later Harding Herb Swedlund and Glen Denny made their own bid for the first ascent With Goodrichrsquos blood still staining the wall they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method lots of pitons drilled bolts and wine
We just wanted to get our tired bodies to the top The first pitch greeted us with a wet mess turning our 59 into something of a 510+ insecure slab But Luke the technician took it down with a smile
If you met him on the street yoursquod think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey He works as a research scientist for a landscape conservation NGO in Truckee California However under his office-nerd facade is a serious competitor and athlete Having ticked 21 desert towers and 33 technical canyons across Utah and Arizona as well as multiple
3000rsquo+ climbing days in the Sierra Luke is no stranger to adventure and suffering We met four years ago during my third year of graduate school I had moved to Flagstaff Arizona primarily for school but also for the great access to local climbing Learning to climb in California my most memorable major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra Given our collective climbing backgrounds Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives
We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four Somehow we landed the grant and there we were on a massive alpine face our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10000 feet
Pitch 2 is the technical crux Luke offered to take this one on the condition that I take the difficult off-width pitch higher up Deal It was a wild bit of rock climbingmdashone of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof
Blistering sun hit me at 11 am as I cruised up hand jams and thrutched into the offwidth large crystals chewing through my skin Halfway up I placed my only 6 Camalot The offwidth continued but toned down a bit to 58 a grade on which Irsquom considerably more comfortable Unfortunately the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam Awesome The remaining offwidth although semi-secure was not easy moving I groveled the last 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay blood soaking through the legs of my pants I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident
Luke rocketed up reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didnrsquot make it He led the last cruxmdashthe most intimidating part of the routemdasha steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney When Luke got there his last piece was a ways to his left with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it I kept the belay
DREAMLIVE YOUR
THE AAC GRANT FOR THE EVERY-DAY ADVENTURER
powered by
I GROVELED THE LAST 25 FEET IN FEAR AND EXHAUSTION TO REACH THE BELAY BLOOD SOAKING THROUGH THE LEGS OF MY PANTS I LOOKED LIKE I HAD BEEN IN A
MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTldquo
tight and watched him take his time clearly tired from the week as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney I followed thankful I didnrsquot have to lead that terror show I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast
With the last hard pitch done we were elated All the suffering would soon be over The months of training had paid off There were just a few more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash in on beer and fish tacos at the Mobil station in Lee Vining
Our buddy Ken greeted us at the top with a smile He spent the day trying to figure out how to rappel in to take pictures but the upper 3rd- and 4th-class sections were chossy enough that he couldnrsquot find a solid anchor without raining rocks on our heads
ldquoLooks like we got to the top just in time for a stormrdquo I said nodding to dark clouds circling above
ldquoNah itrsquos been like this all dayrdquo Ken replied ldquoBut it hasnrsquot done
anything on this side of the valleyrdquo He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo
Yards from the summit a loud buzzing sound resonated near Luke ldquoItrsquos these beetles that are around hererdquo Ken reassured uneasiness
in his voice ldquoIrsquove been hearing it all dayrdquoLuke pulled off his helmet and looked for a beetle inside His hair
was sticking on end face white eyes bulging ldquoI just felt a shock go through my spinerdquo he yelled as he made a mad
dash back down the talus We followed The buzzing was now almost deafening
ldquoDrop your gearrdquo Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground My arm hair stood tall as I frantically tried to undo my harness straps I tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain thunder echoing above
ldquoDammitrdquo I yelled over to the guys We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below so wersquod have to return to the summit and drop off the other side to retreat Irsquod never been too concerned about lightning before having hiked around Flagstaff on the San Francisco peaks during monsoon season and having worked trails in the Yosemite high country This was different I could see lightning striking less than a mile away closing in fast
ldquoGet that camera away from merdquo I yelled at Ken afraid that the metal could attract electricity Cold rain hit us we begin to shiver During a short break in the rain we made a run for the top The buzzing grew more intense and my arm hair came back to life ldquoNo Go back downrdquo
With lightning and virga drawing closer we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from I fell a few times on the summit talus and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly I considered trying the summit again but Ken saw it in my eyes and commanded me to hunker back down There was nothing to do but wait
[Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm bull [Facing Page] Tony Chang decends after climbing the SW face of Mount Conness
20 | Advocacy Advocacy | 21
My mind was racing angry and confused We sent four of our biggest dream routes but might not live to tell about it The irony Maybe we should have just stayed in Tahoe and gone fishing Live Your Dream More like Live Your Nightmare
It was 15 more minutes of misery shivering and fear before the storm broke This time the rain stopped We took the opportunity to make another run for the summitmdashno buzzing this time We scurried down the 3rd-class ledges and ran across the saddle toward our packs High fives and cheers all around We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives
The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds and something changed I realized that this is what we had come for To experience the intensity and the doubt To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the ldquoreal worldrdquo Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks
We all love those bluebird days at the crag catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches but those arenrsquot the days you remember Itrsquos those times you had to bivy at 14000rsquo happy to be alive the next day Itrsquos those times when you canrsquot get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing you did the day before Itrsquos the epic stories you love to tell around the campfire but never actually want to relive This was one of those memories one we will never forget
TONY CHANG bull Bozeman MT
Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science while finding time to mountaineer in the Beartooths and Tetons
BETAbull More than $30000 availablebull Apply January 1 ndash March 1bull Winners announced 4ndash6 weeks after application period endsbull All climbing disciplines welcomebull Apply through your local regionbull Max grant amounts of $1000
All climbers have dreams Let us help you live yours The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you the every-day adventurer take your abilities to the next level
LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT
americanalpinecluborgliveyourdream
[This Page Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit bull [This Page Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croftrsquos ldquoBig FourrdquomdashMount Conness bull [Facing Page] Beer and fish tacos await
22 | Advocacy Advocacy | 23
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
This is your Club These are your photos We are the AACWe are climbers stewards of the outdoors We are doers And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action doing what they love
Want to see your photos in next yearrsquos Guidebook to MembershipSend to photoamericanalpinecluborg
Indian Creek UT Bryan Cox fights for the chains on Anunnaki (511c) AAC member Niko Monteiro52 53
Bishop CA Jon Fait of Gibbon Slacklines representing at the 2013 Fall Highball Cragginrsquo Classic AAC staff member Jeff Deikis
Eastern Sierra CA Climb hard party harder AAC member Jeremy Dreier
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
54 55
1 Stansbury Island UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a
winter ascent No supplemental oxygen required AAC member Craig Armstrong
MEMBERSHIPTHROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY
2
3
54
1
2 Little Rock City TN Whitney Boland Tenessee Thong (V7) AAC member Dan
Brayack
3 North Woodstock NH No pressure Maryanna Saenko competes in a pull-up
competition at the 5th Annual VICE Festival AAC member Ian MacLellan
5 Yosemite National Park CA Dave Campbell and Yosemite NPS climbing ranger Ben Doyle
working hard to remove garbage from the Nose on El Capitan AAC member Cheyne Lempe
4 Bartlett NH Future rock-crushers gotta start somewhere 2013 Cragginrsquo
Classic AAC member Bryan Rafferty
60 61
TO MEMBERSHIPGUIDEBOOK
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB2014
For two years running David has art directed
and designed the American Alpine Clubrsquos
annual Guidebook to Membership a 100 page
archival quality publication In process he
has had the opportunity to work hand-
in-hand with some of the most reputable
photographers writers and companies
in the outdoor industry Supported in
advertising from Alpinist Adidas Five Ten
Black Diamond LOWA and Patagonia the
Guidebook to Membership sees an annual
print distribution of 30000 copies
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP
mojavecreativelabcom | 5
In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American
Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the
greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard
was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600
people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer
David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
CHOUINARD
O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B
PRESENTED BY
6 | mojavecreativelabcom
The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier
climbing organization in the United States With over 14000
members consistent support is key to its growth David
designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal
rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and
focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly
successful for the rapidly expanding organization
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
AAC member Andrew Burr
o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory
YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community
Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135
Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring
By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions
Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew
Call303-384-0110 x110
MailCompleted renewal form
RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]
Hi [INFORMAL]
This is your last mailing before your membership expires
Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today
Thanks for your support
Phil Powers Executive Director
TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE
mojavecreativelabcom | 7
As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on
biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership
As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding
phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt
prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile
and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the
112-year history of the Club
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN
FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP
For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included
AAC Member Corey Rich
MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)
Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS
VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL
LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT
[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM
bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership
bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community
LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt
DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM
7000
9000
11000
13000
Members
bus t-shirt campaign
2012
2011
2010
2009
2013
8 | mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
2 0 1 4
[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz
starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower
(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]
Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland
The big towers above Baronet (left) and
Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald
S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in
A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger
A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger
p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai
C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies
David Stevenson Book Reviews
David Wilkes In Memoriam
I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato
Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing
I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman
T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek
Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming
R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel
Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea
Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth
Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and
Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China
O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach
Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io
A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea
Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe
W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro
Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters
[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh
[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey
2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88
C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face
2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth
3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant
3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West
4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains
5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit
5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway
6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal
7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent
R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]
7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile
9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future
W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T
Douglas Beal lRichard Blum
Yvon ChouinardAnonymous
Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion
Ken Ehrhart
Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman
David KochMark Kroese
McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion
Peter Metcalf
AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC
Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs
Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton
Doug and Maggie Walker
G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P
$ 1 0 0 0 0 +
$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9
$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9
$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson
Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson
Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates
Gal i BehVaclav Benes
Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner
Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg
Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers
Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion
Robert J CampbellPeter Carter
Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell
Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson
Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey
David DingmanJennifer Dow MD
Jeff DozierRichard Draves
Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers
H Newcomb Eldredge
Stuart El l isonLee Elman
Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish
Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes
James FrankJames Frush
James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens
David GoeddelAnonymous
Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th
Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson
Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah
AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska
Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham
Leo LebonPaul Lego
Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman
Chris LynchBrent Manning
Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy
Peter McGannHacksaw
Paul MorrowTed Morton
Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips
James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope
Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt
Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick
Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph
Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw
Jay SmithGeorge N Smith
Brian SohnAllen Steck
Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer
Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen
Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy
Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi
Rob Ziegler
Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch
Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch
John CattoMike Coll ins
James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth
Jim EdwardsDan Emmett
Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i
Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l
Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD
Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr
George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous
Linda McMil lan
James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle
David OlsenCharles Peck
Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I
Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg
Bob StreetPaul Underwood
Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson
Keegan Young
Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby
Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks
Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l
Louis Kasischke
George McCownAmy Meredith
Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle
Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer
Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka
Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick
Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich
The Estate of Paul Wiseman
In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff
Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch
Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke
Dan CoxBi l l Cox
Phi l ip Erard
Jim FrushRyland Gardner
Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in
Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah
Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke
Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD
Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD
Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t
[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene
F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
mojavecreativelabcom | 9
In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American
Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many
of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold
Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended
by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic
Designer David has branded the entire event
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
10 | mojavecreativelabcom
Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City
Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were
Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage
posters gift cards and more
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN
ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi
JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM
Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only
Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)
Expires 93014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM
mojavecreativelabcom | 11
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
In celebration of the golden age of Yosemite climbing the American
Alpine Club hosted itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside some of the
greatest climbers of all time Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard
was the keynote speaker at the event attended by nearly 600
people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic Designer
David branded the entire event and all subsequent creative
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
CHOUINARD
O U R P I O N E E R I N G S P I R I TYOSEMITE
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E C L U B
PRESENTED BY
6 | mojavecreativelabcom
The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier
climbing organization in the United States With over 14000
members consistent support is key to its growth David
designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal
rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and
focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly
successful for the rapidly expanding organization
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
AAC member Andrew Burr
o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory
YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community
Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135
Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring
By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions
Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew
Call303-384-0110 x110
MailCompleted renewal form
RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]
Hi [INFORMAL]
This is your last mailing before your membership expires
Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today
Thanks for your support
Phil Powers Executive Director
TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE
mojavecreativelabcom | 7
As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on
biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership
As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding
phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt
prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile
and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the
112-year history of the Club
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN
FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP
For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included
AAC Member Corey Rich
MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)
Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS
VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL
LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT
[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM
bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership
bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community
LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt
DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM
7000
9000
11000
13000
Members
bus t-shirt campaign
2012
2011
2010
2009
2013
8 | mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
2 0 1 4
[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz
starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower
(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]
Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland
The big towers above Baronet (left) and
Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald
S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in
A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger
A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger
p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai
C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies
David Stevenson Book Reviews
David Wilkes In Memoriam
I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato
Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing
I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman
T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek
Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming
R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel
Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea
Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth
Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and
Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China
O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach
Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io
A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea
Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe
W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro
Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters
[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh
[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey
2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88
C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face
2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth
3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant
3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West
4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains
5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit
5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway
6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal
7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent
R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]
7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile
9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future
W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T
Douglas Beal lRichard Blum
Yvon ChouinardAnonymous
Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion
Ken Ehrhart
Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman
David KochMark Kroese
McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion
Peter Metcalf
AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC
Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs
Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton
Doug and Maggie Walker
G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P
$ 1 0 0 0 0 +
$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9
$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9
$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson
Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson
Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates
Gal i BehVaclav Benes
Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner
Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg
Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers
Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion
Robert J CampbellPeter Carter
Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell
Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson
Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey
David DingmanJennifer Dow MD
Jeff DozierRichard Draves
Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers
H Newcomb Eldredge
Stuart El l isonLee Elman
Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish
Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes
James FrankJames Frush
James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens
David GoeddelAnonymous
Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th
Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson
Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah
AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska
Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham
Leo LebonPaul Lego
Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman
Chris LynchBrent Manning
Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy
Peter McGannHacksaw
Paul MorrowTed Morton
Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips
James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope
Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt
Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick
Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph
Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw
Jay SmithGeorge N Smith
Brian SohnAllen Steck
Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer
Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen
Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy
Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi
Rob Ziegler
Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch
Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch
John CattoMike Coll ins
James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth
Jim EdwardsDan Emmett
Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i
Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l
Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD
Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr
George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous
Linda McMil lan
James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle
David OlsenCharles Peck
Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I
Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg
Bob StreetPaul Underwood
Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson
Keegan Young
Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby
Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks
Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l
Louis Kasischke
George McCownAmy Meredith
Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle
Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer
Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka
Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick
Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich
The Estate of Paul Wiseman
In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff
Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch
Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke
Dan CoxBi l l Cox
Phi l ip Erard
Jim FrushRyland Gardner
Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in
Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah
Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke
Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD
Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD
Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t
[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene
F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
mojavecreativelabcom | 9
In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American
Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many
of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold
Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended
by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic
Designer David has branded the entire event
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
10 | mojavecreativelabcom
Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City
Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were
Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage
posters gift cards and more
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN
ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi
JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM
Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only
Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)
Expires 93014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM
mojavecreativelabcom | 11
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
The American Alpine Club founded in 1902 is the premier
climbing organization in the United States With over 14000
members consistent support is key to its growth David
designed all Club mailers to increase organization renewal
rates With clear-cut calls to action inspiring graphics and
focused messaging the mailers have consistently proven highly
successful for the rapidly expanding organization
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
AAC member Andrew Burr
o Please exclude my name from members-only mail offers from AAC Partnerso Please exclude my name from the online membership directory
YESmdashKEEP MY MEMBERSHIP ACTIVEI want to continue to receive AAC member benefitand keep supporting the climbing community
Auto Renew o Regular $70 o Junior $35 o Sr $45 o Joint $125o Regular $80 o Junior $45 (Under 29) o Sr $55 (Over 65) o Joint $135
Birthday (Required) ______________________________________________________o CanadaMexico add $30 for postage o Other foreign address add $40Irsquod like to support AAC Conservation Programs with a gifto $50 o $150 o $300 o $500 o Other __________________________Total Payment Amount $ ___________________Name as it appears on credit card _________________________________________CC ______________________________________________ Expiration __________Signature __________________________________________ CVV______________JOINT MEMBERSHIP DETAILS Only the Primary Member will receive annual publications and AAC mailings but both members have access to all other benefitsSecondary Member Name _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Email _____________________________________________________________Secondary Member Birthday (Required) __________________________________________________
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAMbull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membershipbull Never worry about your membership expiring
By checking one of the red boxes your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitation Automatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing communityMembers on Auto Renew are not eligible for current or future promotions
Visitamericanalpinecluborgrenew
Call303-384-0110 x110
MailCompleted renewal form
RENEW TODAYYour AAC Membership Expires [MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES]
Hi [INFORMAL]
This is your last mailing before your membership expires
Together we share a passion for climbing And as a member of the AAC yoursquore part of a tribe thatrsquos making a big difference We support each other with rescue benefits critical lodging facilities conservation projects advocacy grants discounts and more Without you none of this would be possible We depend on our dedicated members to accomplish more for our climbing community than we otherwise could alone Please continue to make a difference by renewing your membership today
Thanks for your support
Phil Powers Executive Director
TOGETHER WE ACCOMPLISH A LOT MORE
mojavecreativelabcom | 7
As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on
biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership
As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding
phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt
prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile
and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the
112-year history of the Club
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN
FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP
For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included
AAC Member Corey Rich
MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)
Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS
VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL
LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT
[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM
bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership
bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community
LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt
DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM
7000
9000
11000
13000
Members
bus t-shirt campaign
2012
2011
2010
2009
2013
8 | mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
2 0 1 4
[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz
starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower
(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]
Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland
The big towers above Baronet (left) and
Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald
S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in
A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger
A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger
p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai
C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies
David Stevenson Book Reviews
David Wilkes In Memoriam
I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato
Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing
I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman
T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek
Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming
R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel
Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea
Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth
Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and
Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China
O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach
Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io
A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea
Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe
W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro
Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters
[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh
[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey
2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88
C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face
2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth
3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant
3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West
4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains
5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit
5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway
6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal
7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent
R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]
7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile
9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future
W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T
Douglas Beal lRichard Blum
Yvon ChouinardAnonymous
Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion
Ken Ehrhart
Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman
David KochMark Kroese
McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion
Peter Metcalf
AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC
Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs
Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton
Doug and Maggie Walker
G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P
$ 1 0 0 0 0 +
$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9
$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9
$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson
Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson
Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates
Gal i BehVaclav Benes
Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner
Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg
Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers
Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion
Robert J CampbellPeter Carter
Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell
Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson
Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey
David DingmanJennifer Dow MD
Jeff DozierRichard Draves
Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers
H Newcomb Eldredge
Stuart El l isonLee Elman
Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish
Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes
James FrankJames Frush
James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens
David GoeddelAnonymous
Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th
Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson
Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah
AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska
Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham
Leo LebonPaul Lego
Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman
Chris LynchBrent Manning
Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy
Peter McGannHacksaw
Paul MorrowTed Morton
Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips
James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope
Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt
Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick
Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph
Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw
Jay SmithGeorge N Smith
Brian SohnAllen Steck
Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer
Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen
Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy
Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi
Rob Ziegler
Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch
Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch
John CattoMike Coll ins
James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth
Jim EdwardsDan Emmett
Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i
Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l
Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD
Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr
George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous
Linda McMil lan
James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle
David OlsenCharles Peck
Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I
Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg
Bob StreetPaul Underwood
Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson
Keegan Young
Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby
Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks
Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l
Louis Kasischke
George McCownAmy Meredith
Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle
Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer
Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka
Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick
Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich
The Estate of Paul Wiseman
In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff
Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch
Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke
Dan CoxBi l l Cox
Phi l ip Erard
Jim FrushRyland Gardner
Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in
Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah
Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke
Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD
Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD
Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t
[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene
F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
mojavecreativelabcom | 9
In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American
Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many
of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold
Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended
by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic
Designer David has branded the entire event
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
10 | mojavecreativelabcom
Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City
Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were
Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage
posters gift cards and more
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN
ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi
JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM
Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only
Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)
Expires 93014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM
mojavecreativelabcom | 11
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
As a membership organization the American Alpine Club depends on
biannual campaigns aimed at significant increases in membership
As a joinrenewal insentive David designed a t-shirt and coinciding
phrase ldquoGet on the bus Wersquove got mountains to climbrdquo The t-shirt
prompted incredible feedback significantly increased brand profile
and saw the greatest single-month membership growth in the
112-year history of the Club
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT T-SHIRT CAMPAIGN
FREE T-SHIRT WITH MEMBERSHIP
For a limited time when you join the AAC community yoursquoll receive our new ldquoBus to Mountainsrdquo t-shirt for free Made with a soft polycotton blend this shirt inspires the start of an adventure Membership prices increase on October 1st but you can join the club at the current rate until November 1st t-shirt included
AAC Member Corey Rich
MailCompleted join form (includecredit card info or check)
Call303-384-0110 x110Mention code AAC-BUS
VisitamericanalpinecluborgjoinEnter promo code corresponding w t-shirt sizeAAC-BUS-XS AAC-BUS-S AAC-BUS-M AAC-BUS-LAAC-BUS-XL AAC-BUS-XXL
LIMITED TIME FREE T-SHIRT
[FULL NAME][ADDRESS 1][ADDRESS 2][CITY] [STATE] [ZIP CODE] [COUNTRY]
JOIN AUTOMATIC RENEWAL PROGRAM
bull Never deal with the hassle of renewing your membership
bull Never worry about your membership expiringBy checking the box your membership will renew automatically in years to come Yoursquoll receive notice by email before your credit card is charged each year should you wish to change your preference You will not receive print renewal solicitationAutomatic renewal helps us spend less on renewal initiatives and more on the things important to the climbing community
LIMITED TIME SPECIAL OFFERJoin the club by November 1st to save $5 and get a free t-shirt
DM_V2indd 1 9513 1214 PM
7000
9000
11000
13000
Members
bus t-shirt campaign
2012
2011
2010
2009
2013
8 | mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
2 0 1 4
[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz
starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower
(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]
Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland
The big towers above Baronet (left) and
Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald
S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in
A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger
A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger
p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai
C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies
David Stevenson Book Reviews
David Wilkes In Memoriam
I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato
Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing
I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman
T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek
Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming
R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel
Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea
Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth
Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and
Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China
O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach
Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io
A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea
Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe
W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro
Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters
[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh
[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey
2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88
C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face
2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth
3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant
3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West
4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains
5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit
5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway
6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal
7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent
R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]
7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile
9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future
W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T
Douglas Beal lRichard Blum
Yvon ChouinardAnonymous
Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion
Ken Ehrhart
Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman
David KochMark Kroese
McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion
Peter Metcalf
AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC
Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs
Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton
Doug and Maggie Walker
G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P
$ 1 0 0 0 0 +
$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9
$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9
$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson
Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson
Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates
Gal i BehVaclav Benes
Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner
Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg
Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers
Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion
Robert J CampbellPeter Carter
Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell
Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson
Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey
David DingmanJennifer Dow MD
Jeff DozierRichard Draves
Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers
H Newcomb Eldredge
Stuart El l isonLee Elman
Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish
Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes
James FrankJames Frush
James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens
David GoeddelAnonymous
Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th
Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson
Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah
AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska
Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham
Leo LebonPaul Lego
Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman
Chris LynchBrent Manning
Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy
Peter McGannHacksaw
Paul MorrowTed Morton
Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips
James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope
Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt
Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick
Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph
Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw
Jay SmithGeorge N Smith
Brian SohnAllen Steck
Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer
Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen
Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy
Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi
Rob Ziegler
Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch
Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch
John CattoMike Coll ins
James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth
Jim EdwardsDan Emmett
Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i
Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l
Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD
Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr
George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous
Linda McMil lan
James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle
David OlsenCharles Peck
Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I
Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg
Bob StreetPaul Underwood
Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson
Keegan Young
Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby
Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks
Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l
Louis Kasischke
George McCownAmy Meredith
Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle
Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer
Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka
Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick
Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich
The Estate of Paul Wiseman
In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff
Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch
Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke
Dan CoxBi l l Cox
Phi l ip Erard
Jim FrushRyland Gardner
Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in
Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah
Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke
Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD
Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD
Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t
[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene
F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
mojavecreativelabcom | 9
In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American
Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many
of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold
Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended
by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic
Designer David has branded the entire event
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
10 | mojavecreativelabcom
Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City
Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were
Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage
posters gift cards and more
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN
ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi
JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM
Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only
Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)
Expires 93014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM
mojavecreativelabcom | 11
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2014
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
2 0 1 4
[Front cover] Will it hold Marek Raganowicz
starts pitch 26 Bushido Great Trango Tower
(p297) Marcin Tomaszewski [This page]
Quinn Brett and Prairie Kearney in Greenland
The big towers above Baronet (left) and
Baron (right) (p182) John Dickey
T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
E x e c u t i v e E d i t o rDougald MacDonald
S E N I O R E D I T O RLindsay Gr i f f in
A s s i s ta n t e d i t o rErik Rieger
A r t D i r e c t o rErik Rieger
p u b l i c at i o n s i n t e r nMichiko Arai
C o n t r i b u t i n g e d i t o r sFrederick O Johnson Club Act iv i t ies
David Stevenson Book Reviews
David Wilkes In Memoriam
I l l u s t r at i o n s a n d m a p sJeremy Coll ins Jesse Crock Joe Iurato
Mike Clel land Anna Ri l ing
I n d e x e r sRalph Ferrara Eve Tal lman
T r a n s l at o r sPeter Jensen-Choi Zbysek Cesenek
Tamotsu Nakamura Henry Pickford S imone Sturm Ekater ina Vorotnikova X ia Zhongming
R e g i o n a l c o n ta c t sSteve Gruhn Alaska Drew Brayshaw Rapahel
Slawinski Canada Sevi Bohorquez Sergio Ramiacuterez Carrascal Peru Damien Gi ldea
Antarct ica Rolando Gar ibott i Marcelo Scanu Daniel Seel iger Argent inaChi le Rajesh Gadgi l Har ish Kapadia India El izabeth
Hawley Rodolphe Popier R ichard Sal isbury Nepal Tamotsu Nakamura Hiroshi Hagiwara Japanese cl imbs Peter Jensen-Choi Korean cl imbs Anna Piunova Russia Taj ik istan and
Kyrgyzstan X ia Zhongming China
O n l i n e e d i t o r sDoug Hal ler Chr is Harr ington Joel Peach
Tom Pr igg Cr is Valer io
A d v i s o r y b o a r dAndrew Bisharat Kel ly Cordes Damien Gi ldea
Col in Haley Mark Richey Freddie Wilk inson Emily St i f ler Wolfe
W I T H H E A R T F E LT T H A N K S T ODavid Boersma Claude Gardien Maro
Lablance Er ik Lambert Anna Piunova Tucker and al l AAJ donors and supporters
[ T h i s p a g e ] A p p ro a c h i n g t h e Doublets in East Rosebud Canyon Montana (p127) Ian Cavanaugh
[This page] Whit Magro on the first one-day free ascent of Jaded Lady Mt Hooker Wyoming (p132) John Dickey
2 0 1 4 Volume 56 Issue 88
C O N T E N T S1 2 A n n a p u r n a b y U e l i S t e c k amp Ya n n i c k G r a z i a n iTwo extraordinary ascents of the south face
2 2 N o w e a k s h i t b y s c o t t a d a m s o nA 10-year obsession with the Mooses Tooth
3 2 K h u n ya n g C h h i s h E a s t b y H a n s j ouml r g A u e rThe first ascent of a Karakoram giant
3 8 L e a r n i n g t o w a l k b y r a p h a e l s l a w i n s k iLessons from past expeditions equal success on K6 West
4 5 G a m l a n g r a z i b y A n d y T y s o nExploring northern Myanmarrsquos mysterious mountains
5 2 Ta l u n g b y m a r e k H o l e c e kA favorite partner a final summit
5 8 W i l d s p o r t b y J o n at h a n s i e g r i s tThe future of American rock climbing lies far from the highway
6 4 P u r g at i o n b y C h r i s w r i g h tExploration and intrigue in Nepal
7 2 M o n t e S a r m i e n t o b y C a m i l o R a d aAfter 57 years Tierra del Fuegorsquos spellbinding peak gets a second ascent
R E C O N [ u n e x p l o r e d amp o v e r l o o k e d ]
7 8 T o w e r s o f W i n d a n d I c e b y C a m i l o r a d a amp J a c k M i l l e rThe Cordillera de Sarmiento of southern Chile
9 0 T h e W h i t n e y M a s s i f b y D o u g R o b i n s o n A m y N e s s amp M y l e s M o s e rClassic routes hot new lines and a blank canvas for the future
W E T H A N K T H E F O L L O W I N G F O RT H E I R G E N E R O U S F I N A N C I A L S U P P O R T
Douglas Beal lRichard Blum
Yvon ChouinardAnonymous
Kevin Duncan amp Duncan Family Foundat ion
Ken Ehrhart
Clark Gerhardt JrTodd Hoffman
David KochMark Kroese
McKibbenMerner Family- Foundat ion
Peter Metcalf
AnonymousNY Sect ion AAC
Mark amp Teresa RicheyDavid Riggs
Steve SchwartzSteven Swenson amp Ann Dalton
Doug and Maggie Walker
G R E A T R A N G E S F E L L O W S H I P
$ 1 0 0 0 0 +
$ 5 0 0 0 - $ 9 9 9 9
$ 2 5 0 0 - $ 4 9 9 9
$ 1 0 0 0 - $ 2 4 9 9Robert Anderson
Larry ArthurWil l iam Atk inson
Gai l BatesCOL Christopher Bates
Gal i BehVaclav Benes
Gordon A Benner MDLaur ie Berl iner
Tanya Bradby amp Mart in SlovacekJohn Bragg
Wesley BrownPaul BrunnerWil l iam BurdDeirdre Byers
Edmund amp Betsy Cabot Foundat ion
Robert J CampbellPeter Carter
Jeffrey CohenDouglas Colwell
Kevin CooneyMatt amp Charlotte Culberson
Karen DaubertJoseph DavidsonTom DegenhardtStanley Dempsey
David DingmanJennifer Dow MD
Jeff DozierRichard Draves
Jesse DwyerCharles Ei lers
H Newcomb Eldredge
Stuart El l isonLee Elman
Denise ElmerTerrence Engl ish
Phi l ip ErardTimothy Forbes
James FrankJames Frush
James amp Franziska GarrettBi l l Givens
David GoeddelAnonymous
Wayne amp Cynthia Gr i f f inRichard Gr i f f i th
Scot Hi l lmanMarley amp Jennifer Hodgson
Richard E Hoffman MDRobert Hyman amp Deborah
AtwoodThomas JansonJohn Kascenska
Wil l iam Krause MDEl len Lapham
Leo LebonPaul Lego
Gerald LofthouseJamie LoganGai l Loveman
Chris LynchBrent Manning
Edward MatthewsJames McCarthy
Peter McGannHacksaw
Paul MorrowTed Morton
Amy ParadisWil l Phi l l ips
James Pinter-LuckeJohn Pope
Matthew PruisEugene RehfeldLouis Reichardt
Prof John ReppyAndrea Resnick
Ryan RichMichael Ri leyCarey RobertsJoel RobinsonJohn Rudolph
Stephen Scof ieldGeorge Shaw
Jay SmithGeorge N Smith
Brian SohnAllen Steck
Robert amp Jennifer StephensonSeth Switzer
Pat amp Jack TackleThomas Tapl inDavid Thoenen
Mart in J TorresquinteroJohn Tracy
Dieter Von HennigJames Whit takerTodd Winzenr iedJoseph Yannuzzi
Rob Ziegler
Warren AdelmanSteve BarrettGeorge Basch
Sherman Bul l MDThomas Burch
John CattoMike Coll ins
James Donin iJames amp Cheryl Duckworth
Jim EdwardsDan Emmett
Charlotte FoxMari lyn Geninatt i
Peter Sam Addis amp Gus GoldmanSyed HaiderRobert Hal lHelene Hi l l
Michael HodgesThomas Hornbein MD
Mark KassnerPhi l Lakin Jr
George Lowe I I IJeff Mart inAnonymous
Linda McMil lan
James Morr isseyMir iam Nelson amp Kinloch Earle
David OlsenCharles Peck
Marshal l PetersonCharles Sassara I I I
Howard SeboldAlan Spielberg
Bob StreetPaul Underwood
Theodore WeickerJohn (Jed) Wil l iamson
Keegan Young
Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby
Charles Fle ischmanBruce Franks
Gerald Gal lwasSandy Hi l l
Louis Kasischke
George McCownAmy Meredith
Vanessa OrsquoBr ienWolf Riehle
Cody J SmithTravis Spi tzer
Wil l iam amp Barbra Straka
Theodore Stre ibertPeter Sul ick
Lawrence True amp Linda BrownRonald Ulr ich
The Estate of Paul Wiseman
In Memory of Charl ie Fowler amp Randy Grandstaff
Gordon A Benner MDRobert Branch
Yvon ChouinardChristopher Clarke
Dan CoxBi l l Cox
Phi l ip Erard
Jim FrushRyland Gardner
Stephen GeremiaWayne and Cynthia Gr i f f in
Richard Gr i f f i thDavid Harrah
Richard E Hoffman MDJohn KascenskaLouis Kasischke
Mike LewisDougald MacDonaldMary Ann MatthewsPeter McGann MD
Mona ReynoldsSamuel Si lverste in MD
Theodore Stre ibertTimothy Wil t
[This page] If yoursquore climbing Cerro Mariposa therersquos only one approach Will Stanhope a n d M a rc-A n d re Le c l e rc paddle out from the wall (p224) Matt Van Biene
F R I E N D S O F T H E A M E R I C A N A L P I N E J O U R N A L
mojavecreativelabcom | 9
In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American
Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many
of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold
Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended
by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic
Designer David has branded the entire event
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
10 | mojavecreativelabcom
Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City
Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were
Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage
posters gift cards and more
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN
ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi
JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM
Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only
Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)
Expires 93014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM
mojavecreativelabcom | 11
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
In celebration of the worldrsquos greatest climber the American
Alpine Club is hosting itrsquos annual benefit dinner alongside many
of the most influential people in the outdoor industry Reinhold
Messner Chouinard will keynote the NYC event to be attended
by nearly 600 people from around the world As the Clubrsquos Graphic
Designer David has branded the entire event
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBPROJECT ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER (FEATURING YVON CHOUINARD)
10 | mojavecreativelabcom
Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City
Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were
Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage
posters gift cards and more
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN
ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi
JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM
Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only
Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)
Expires 93014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM
mojavecreativelabcom | 11
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
Outdoor Retailer is the premiere trade show of outdoor industry
brands throughout the world held annually in Salt Lake City
Utah As the American Alpine Clubrsquos Graphic Designer David
created many different pieces of creative for the the event in
partnership with Adidas and Petzl On display at the event were
Davidrsquos work on brochures magazines tradeshow signage
posters gift cards and more
BRAND AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB - ADIDASPROJECT RENEWAL MAILER
SHOW SPECIALJOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR AND GET AN
ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
a Redstone CO Carlo Traversi
JOIN AT ADIDASBOOTH 1009
AAC_ORADIDASPOSTER_FINAL_070914indd 1 71514 557 PM
Canrsquot make it to the booth Join the Club online at the pro ratemdashoffer valid Aug amp Sept only
Visit americanalpinecluborgjoin choose regular membership category amp enter code ORSM14AAC
Good for $25 off regular membership price ($80)
Expires 93014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB VIP $25 OFF
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 2 71714 512 PM
STOP BY THE ADIDAS OUTDOOR BOOTH (1009) AND JOIN THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT $25 OFF AND GET A GET A 65 OFF PRO-DEAL WITH ADIDAS OUTDOOR ANDGET AN ADIDAS OUTDOOR $25 GIFT CARD
AAC_BCAdidas_r1v1_071014indd 1 71714 512 PM
mojavecreativelabcom | 11
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
Mojave Creative Lab is incredibly invested in supporting non-profit
organizations aligned with our beliefs and interests Thatrsquos why we
work pro-bono with Paradox Sports PS is a non-profit committed
to providing inspiration opportunities and specialized adaptive
equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in
human-powered sports Mojave Creative Lab was founded upon
creativity and the love of outdoors Offering our services for free to
an organization with a similar mission was a no-brainer
BRAND PARADOX SPORTSPROJECT POSTCARD DESIGN
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
The Paradox Sports Adaptive Climbing Curriculum includes a comprehensive manual clinic and equipment package The curriculum provides qualified instruction on how to provide a rewarding climbing experience for persons with a wide array of physical disabilities while developing inclusive supportive communities for adaptive sport and
emphasizes risk management The curriculum explains the specifics for creating and curating this program at climbing gyms universities adaptive sports agencies outdoor clubs hospitals and community rec programs with a focus on physical adaptation with paralysis amputation deafnessblindness neurological disorders PTSD and TBI
PARADOX SPORTS1911 11th St bull Suite 201 bull Boulder CO 80302 bull (720) 638-5593 bull paradoxsportsorg
paradoxsportsorgcausesparadox-curriculum
ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CURRICULUM
12 | mojavecreativelabcom
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
Mojave Creative Lab also supports world-renknowned climber Jeff
Lowe in his final act For the past ten years Jeff has been battling
an unidentified neurological desease similar to ALS Mojave is
proud to support Jeff and is currently designing the cover art for
Jeffrsquorsquos much anticipated film Metanoia premeiring this November
at Banff Mountain Film Festival MCL is a proud sponsor of the film
BRAND JEFF LOWE MOUNTAIN FOUNDATIONPROJECT TRIBUTE POSTER
mojavecreativelabcom | 13
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
Each October Estes Park CO hosts a month long celebration of
its highly concentrated elk population In order to promote the
event and boost tourism Estes Park sought a visual that would
garner traction in the press and inspire potential visitors While
working for Turner PR David designed this visual which was
featured on USA Today and many other online publications
BRAND VISIT ESTES PARKPROJECT ELKTOBER INFOGRAPHIC
VIEW ONLINE
14 | mojavecreativelabcom
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
Moonlight Basin wanted to put on a contest coinciding the
Suburu Freeskiing World Tour which was to take place at the Big
Sky MT ski resort With the goal of increasing its social media
presence and fan-base Turner PR alongside David designed
a campaign requiring entrants to ldquoLikerdquo Moonlightrsquos Facebook
page prior to entering Through co-branding the creative
and pushing the Moonlight brand forward its fanbase grew
substantially over the course of the contest
BRAND MOONLIGHT BASIN SUBURU FREESKIING WORLD TOURPROJECT FACEBOOK CONTEST
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 15
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
Smartwool requested a full-page magazine ad to promote its new
layering system By combining product placement and action
photography the ad effectively drew in its visual outdoor audience
and simultaniously communicated the new product line
BRAND SMARTWOOLPROJECT MAGAZINE AD
copy Tyler Stableford Photography
MOUNTAIN
S M A R T SInstead of looking at layers individually wetook a ldquosystemrdquo approach - designing piecesthat not only work independently but together aswell Fitting together Made for each other Smartlayers that are more efficient with less bulk
Layered together they donrsquot bunch or restrictmovement so you can focus on the trail
The Result
Menrsquos PhDreg SmartLoft Divide Full Zip
16 | mojavecreativelabcom
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
In 2013 David and four others founded gear review site
ascentdescentreviewcom Having seen an opening in the gear
review market David built a website that was mobile-friendly
and would allow for user feedback and ratings No other gear
review site in the industry has a friendlier interface or
allows for such user-interaction
BRAND ASCENT DESCENT REVIEWPROJECT WEBSITE
VIEW ONLINE
mojavecreativelabcom | 17
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
At Mojave Creative Lab we design t-shirt illustrations and graphics
to promote brands creativity and the outdoor lifestyle This
original graphic is available to be purchased for full commercial
license It can be custom branded and altered as requested by
the buyer If interested in purchase reach out to dboersma
mojavecreativelabcom
BRAND MOJAVE CREATIVE LAB MOJAVE WEARPROJECT T-SHIRT DESIGN
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
desert dweller
W E A RM J AV E
18 | mojavecreativelabcom
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19
Want to explore working with David at Mojave Creative Labdboersmamojavecreativelabcom
Brady Jensen hooks a trout Laramie River Canyon WY David Boersma
CONTACT
mojavecreativelabcom
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
M J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGN
THE SCIENCE OF DESIGNM J AV EC R E A T I V E L A B
mojavecreativelabcom | 19