Module 6: Correcting Problem Behaviors

So far we’ve looked inside a dog’s mind and got to grips with modern training methods.

You’ve put your best foot fur-wards, done everything right, and still your pup misbehaves.

Or, perhaps you have an older dog that has got into bad habits. Whatever the reason,

here is your chance to understand the root cause of some common bad behaviors and

take steps to correct them.

6.1 Anxiety and fear (See also: Separation anxiety)

6.2 Aggression

6.3 Bad manners

6.4 Barking

6.5 Begging

6.6 Digging

6.7 Food guarding

6.8 House soiling

6.9 Inter-dog tension

6.10 Jumping up

6.11 Leaving objects

6.12 Over excited dogs

6.13 Poor recall

6.14 Possessiveness

6.15 Pulling on the leash

6.16 Separation anxiety

6.1 ANXIETY and FEAR

From thunderstorms to men-with-beards, our pet pals have all sorts of hang-ups,

anxieties, and phobias. It is human nature to soothe a quivering dog and tell them

everything is OK. Unfortunately, in a dog’s mind this petting rewards their fearful behavior,

it reinforces the anxiety, and makes the problem worse.

So if it’s wrong to reassure your anxious dog, what should you do?

6.1.1 Understand Anxiety

When faced with a fearful situation (think

thunderstorms, fireworks, loud noises, umbrellas,

men-with-beards, etc.) the dog’s body releases

hormones that prepare him to do one of four things:

Fight off the scary thing; a lot of terriers do this

Flight or run away

Freeze and hope the scary thing doesn’t spot you

Fool around, make people laugh and hope the

scary thing loses interest

Which group does your dog fall into when faced with a scary stranger: Do they hide behind

the sofa or strain on the end of a leash?

The hormones associated with anxiety cause a racing heart, shivering, and nausea, all of

which are very real sensations that reinforce how scary the situation is.

6.1.2 Reducing Anxiety

Here’s how to go about reducing an anxious dog’s dilemma.

a) Avoid the Triggers

During retraining, where possible, identify and avoid the trigger factor.

Avoiding a full on panic attack, builds the dog’s confidence to relearn a positive reaction

to the feared event.

b) Watch your body language!

The dog looks to you for cues, so don’t show him you are anxious or worried. Appear

non-chalant when the bearded-man appears in the park. Likewise, avoiding fussing with

the dog when he’s shaking or fearful – it reinforces the behavior.

c) Use the “Come away” command

When in the park and the scary umbrella or dog approaches, avoid your dog’s fear

escalating by using the “Come away” command and taking the dog in a different direction.

[See MODULE 5 for the “Come away” command.]

a) Start a desensitization and counter-conditioning program

Don’t be put off by the big words. This basically means exposing the dog to an ultra-low

level of the scary situation, such that he doesn’t react with fear. You let him get used to

this exposure, reward him, and then turn things up a notch.

For example: FIREWORKS

Play an MP3 track of fireworks at such a low volume that the dog doesn’t react.

Reward his courage with a treat and praise.

Turn the volume up one notch. Let him settle. Then reward his courage.

If at any stage the dog shows fear, take the volume back down to where he was

comfortable.

Gradually increase the volume over several weeks, until he tolerates it playing at a

normal volume.

b) Know that drugs are sometimes necessary

Extremely fearful dogs may require medication to quell those fearful hormones.

Also consider an Adaptil Dog Appeasing Pheromone (DAP) collar, and a Thundershirt.

6.2 Aggression

Aggression is a complex topic which could

take an entire course and more just to cover.

Any dog with aggressive tendencies has the

potential to be dangerous, especially to

children. It cannot be stressed enough that

serious aggression in a dog is not something

you should attempt to remedy yourself. It is

essential you consult a veterinarian to check if a physical problem could be causing the

short temper. If no physical reason is found, then ask your veterinarian for a referral to a

qualified animal behaviorist.

The reason for a referral is that every aspect of the dog’s behavior must be studied in

order to work out the dog’s motivation. If this ground work is not done, it’s entirely possible

that inappropriate corrective measures could make matters worse.

To give an idea of the complex nature of aggression, here is a table of common forms of

aggression and how best to react. [See also, Holly and Hugo’s guide to aggression. ]

Type of Aggression Trigger Owner Action

Fear

Something that scares the

dog such as umbrellas,

black dogs, or bearded

men

Avoid trigger situations

where possible

Teach the “Come away”

command

Desensitize and counter-

condition the dog (See:

ANXIETY 6.1)

Status

The dog regularly

challenges another dog or

a person

Avoid confrontation and

staring at the dog

Owner should restrict the

dog’s privileges and grant

them only when the dog

obeys commands

Ignore the dog’s attempts

to get attention and only

interact when the human

starts the contact

Redirected

The dog redirects

frustration and attacks

another dog or individual

Address the underlying

cause of the dog’s

frustration

Possessive The dog guards toys or

food

Do not challenge or

confront the dog

Do not attempt to remove

the resource

Avoid giving the dog toys

that he values highly, whilst

retraining him to “Give” on

demand.

Never remove food from a

food possessive dog

Territorial Patrols the yard to see off

intruders

Limit access to the area the

dog patrols

Block views of the yard

Muzzle the dog

Maternal A female dog guards her

puppies

Make the nest room safe

and secure

Do not attempt to separate

mum and pups

Pain induced Pain causes the dog to

lash out

Veterinary consultation to

identify and treat the pain.

6.2.3 General Principles of Managing an Aggressive Dog

While you are waiting for the behaviorists visit, consider if the following strategies are

appropriate for your circumstances.

Children: Never leave children unsupervised with an aggressive dog.

Exercise: Give the dog plenty of exercise. A pleasantly tired dog through lots of play

is more likely to sleep than misbehave.

Reward-based training: Start teaching the dog using reward-based training. Make it

fun and have at least two sessions a day. Teach your dog a rock-solid sit under all

circumstances, and you are starting to win back control.

Never punish: Do not, under any circumstances punish the dog. This may inhibit the

dog from growling with the result that he moves straight from feeling annoyed to biting

but without any warning. Also, punishment increases the dog’s stress levels, which

makes him more likely to attack, not less.

6.2.3 General Principles of Managing an Aggressive Dog

Muzzle: Train the dog to accept a muzzle. (To do let him eat treats out of the muzzle,

and gradually get the dog used to sliding the muzzle onto his nose. Introduce wearing

the muzzle gradually, a few seconds at a time initially, followed by lots of praise.)

A Long line: Consider attaching a long line to the dog’s collar while in the house. This

enables you to move the dog off furniture without putting your hands near him.

However, be aware there is a right and wrong way to use a long line - so speak to

your behaviorist about your particular circumstances.

Teach “Come away”: To remove the dog from sticky situations (See Module 5)

6.3 Bad Manners

This includes actions such as rushing the front door, general bad behavior, and not

listening to commands. Think of this dog as an unruly child.

The answer is training and then more training. Get the dog listening to your commands,

so that he behaves under all circumstances. [See Holly and Hugo’s guide to clicker

training]

If the dog’s concentration is poor, then focus his mind and have him work to earn rewards

such as supper. Make a start by insisting he sits for his super bowl or sits before going

for a walk. Help him to understand that good things happen when he listens, and he’ll

soon be tripping you up with his eagerness to obey.

A common mistake is to train the dog in one setting, such as the back yard, so the dog

thinks he only has to behave in that setting. Don’t forget to train wherever you go and

whatever you’re doing, there’s always time for “Sit” practice.

As for dashing the door…think laterally. First

train your dog a command to go to his bed or a

certain spot. Then get a friend to ring the doorbell

and practice sending the dog to his bed. Keep

the stimulus low key by gently knocking on the

door, but the friend not entering. Don’t advance

to letting the friend in until the dog goes to his

chill out spot every time you ask. To avoid unlearning his progress, pop the dog in a back

room when actual visitors call, so he doesn’t get the opportunity to rush the door. Be sure

to give your fur-pal plenty of praise when he does what you say. [See also Holly and

Hugo’s guide to training commands.]

6.4 Barking

Barking is another huge topic with lots to woof about.

It’s important to remember that barking is vital communication for a dog, much like having

a chat, so it’s wrong to expect them to be silent all the time. However, you want to avoid

an escalation of barking such that the smallest sound triggers an avalanche of deafening

barking.

6.4.1 Why Dogs Bark

Dogs feel the need to bark for a number of reasons, which include:

Territorial: Guarding territory such as the back yard.

Fear: A fearful dog may decide attack, in the form of fearsome barking, is the best

form of defense.

Attention seeking: The dog noticed how when he barks the owner starts yelling, and

he learns this is a great way to get attention.

Older dogs: If you have a senior who’s developed a woofing habit, then get a vet

check. Problems such as deafness or cognitive dysfunction can cause disorientation

in their senses which leads to barking.

Here are a few tips to help you sort that barking problem.

6.4.2 To Yell or Not to Yell?

Tempting as it is to shout at a barking dog, resist the urge.

For a start, the dog will think you’re joining the barking party and encourage him to keep

going.

Then there’s the fact that yelling at him is valuable attention, which means you rewardthe

barking so he keeps going.

Bear in mind that if you bite your tongue and let him bark for 30 minutes, but you snap

and yell at him…next time he’ll bark for 35 minutes without thinking twice.

However, not yelling is important so that you don’t accidentally encourage him; but once

he’s learnt the habit, ignoring him isn’t going to stop him, you need a plan.

6.4.3 Put Barking on Cue

Unfortunately for us, barking is a ‘self-rewarding’ behavior. This means the dog enjoys

the sound of his own woof so much, that he barks just for the heck of it. Thus, you need

to find a way of stopping him that doesn’t involve yelling.

The clever way to do this is to put the barking on cue. This means you teach a dog to

bark (Nuts or what!) and then once he barks on demand, you can teach him the “Quiet”

cue. By putting the barking behavior on demand, you have a tool to stop him from barking

when you want. Sounds good, doesn’t it?

To learn how to teach “Bark” and “Quiet” see Module 5.

6.4.4 Reduce the Triggers for Barking

If your dog is a guarding breed, such as a German shepherd or Rottweiler, then his

genetics make him highly likely to bark to protect his patch. You can teach him the “Quiet”

cue, but if he’s faced with overwhelming trigger of school kids walking past the yard fence,

then you’ll struggle to stop him.

In this scenario it’s sensible to reduce the triggers, which means bringing the dog indoors

before school finishes for the day. Do this, along with 6.4.5 to decrease the chance of the

dog barking out of boredom.

6.4.5 Plenty of exercise

Bored dogs bark to entertain themselves. Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise, so

that he’s so tuckered out he can’t even summon the energy to raise his head for a lazy

‘oof.

6.4.6 Train him to Hold a Toy

OK, this is a sneaky one. Some dogs, (retrievers and spaniels spring to mind) are mouth

orientated and love holding things. Consider giving the dog an alternative activity when

visitors call, such as holding a toy. Did you spot how sneaky this is? When the dog’s

mouth is occupied holding a toy he can’t bark. Genius!

6.5 Begging

Begging from the table is an example of a behavior (begging) being rewarded (he gets

food scraps) and the behavior is enforced (he begs some more.)

Stopping this behavior should be as simple as

ignoring those big brown eyes – but it’s not.

When you stop, expect the dog to become more

determined! In the dog’s mind he needs to work

harder to get a tidbit. He may start jumping up or

barking at people, until someone gives in. Bingo!

The behavior just got reinforced and he learns to

persist harder to get that treat.

You have two options:

1. Put the dog in a separate room at mealtimes and ignore his barks.

2. Let him sit beside the table but on no account feed him.

OK, you could soften the disappointment by putting some of his meal in a Kong and giving

that too him during mealtimes, so he has a food-based distraction to remove him from the

table.

6.6 Digging

Does your yard look like the set of “The Martian”?

Digging is another natural behavior which is out of place in our modern lives. It is wrong

to punish or chastise a dog for digging, apart from anything else, it will drive the behavior

underground (see what I did there). A frustrated digger will divert his energy into other

nefarious practices which are just as bad, such as chewing or barking.

Instead, a game of “If you can’t beat ‘em, join

‘em” is the best outlook, and provide the dog

with his own area where he’s allowed to dig.

Training him to dig in that spot is achieved by

burying a few chew toys in some soft earth

and encouraging the dog to dig. As he gets

the hang of what you want, praise and reward

him, and then add in a cue word “Dig.”

Keep taking him to his digging spot and encourage him to unearth goodies such as his

favorite chew toy, and whilst he’s digging use the “Dig” cue. Before you know it he’ll be

enthusiastically digging on demand, in an area of your choosing.

Also, bear in mind some dogs dig out of boredom. If you are out for 8 hours at a time and

the dog has access to the garden, he’s going to dig to amuse himself. Be prepared for

the fact, and also give him plenty of exercise before you leave and when you get back,

so that he’s physically tired and less likely to want to dig amongst the dahlias.

6.7 Food Guarding

It’s extremely important that dogs are safe around food. A dog who is overly protective

around his dinner, poses a potential threat to any toddler who wanders too close to the

food bowl. However, never try to teach the dog a lesson by forcibly removing the bowl.

This makes things far worse as the dog’s fears are realized. As the bowl vanishes into

the sky, he’s far more likely to react with greater aggressive the next time you go near the

bowl.

Instead, teach him that human’s near the food bowl are a good thing because they put

food IN it.

Here are the steps to reduce food guarding possessiveness:

Switch the dog onto a dull, bland diet, so he’s less excited about the food.

Put his empty food bowl on the floor and have his food in a bowl on the counter top.

Remove a piece of kibble, hold it just above his head, and ask the dog to sit.

Once he’s sitting, drop the piece of kibble in the bowl.

Repeat with the next piece of kibble.

Repeat this for several meals.

Once he is sitting for his supper, practice moving around the bowl as he eats (whilst

adding pieces of kibble).

Build up the association between people and food, rather than the bowl and food, and

he’ll come to welcome people around his bowl.

6.8 House Soiling

Take care to distinguish house soiling due to a breakdown in toilet training, from house

soiling for a medical reason such as a bladder infection or irritable bowel disease. As a

general rule, if your dog has been impeccably clean and only recently started having

accidents, get him checked by a vet.

If the dog is fit and well, but regularly messes in the house, then take toilet training back

to basics, plus thoroughly deodorize his toilet spots.

6.8.1 Do not punish

No matter how tempting, resist the urge to punish your dog, even if you catch him in the

act, and certainly not afterwards. The reason for this is that the dog associates the

punishment with you, rather than soiling the house. A likely scenario is the dog believes

you have an irrational dislike of his bodily functions and slides off to a secret hiding place

in order to eliminate, thus making it more difficult for you to train him and also deodorize

the house.

In a worst case scenario, the dog may feel so inhibited about going to the toilet (for fear

of punishment) that he holds on while you’re there. In effect, you’ve just made house

breaking 100 times more difficult because the dog is reluctant to go in your presence. The

message is: If you find a puddle then grit your teeth, go outside, and shout at the stars,

but don’t take it out on the dog.

6.8.2 Thoroughly Deodorize

Urinary or fecal accidents in the house will draw the dog back to the same spot. Make

sure to get rid of any lingering odor, so that it doesn’t smell like a latrine to him.

Be aware that many household cleaning products and floor cleaners contain ammonia or

bleach, which are components of urine. You may have the best intentions in the world,

but by using these cleaners you are amplifying the urine scent, not obliterating it.

Instead, try the following recipe to get rid of toilet accidents (Always test the carpet or soft

furnishing first for color fastness first):

1. Blot the area dry to remove surface wetness. Don’t push too hard as this can force

moisture deeper into the pile.

2. Use a solution of biological washing detergent in water, to wash away the stain.

3. Rinse with warm water.

4. Blot the area and make sure the cloth looks clean. If it isn’t, wash again as for step

2.

5. Rinse the area with a solution of bicarbonate of soda.

6. Blot and rinse with clean water.

7. Optional final step – sprinkle the area with a little bicarbonate of soda.

8. If the surface is hard (such as tiles) skip (7) and wipe over with rubbing alcohol

(surgical spirit).

9. Allow to dry before letting the dog back in.

Go back to basics, just as if the dog was a

puppy who knew no better. See Module 3

Common reasons for failure of training include:

1. The dog is left outdoors alone. This

means you are denied the opportunity

to reward the dog when he finally goes

to the toilet. The dog doesn’t realize he’s outside to do business and looks on this

as an extended playtime.

2. The dog has too much freedom indoors. The dog is allowed full access of the

house and can squat down when and where he likes. This makes it difficult to find

all those secret spots and the dog gets drawn back to his illicit toilet.

3. The dog plum doesn’t understand what he’s expected to do. If this is the case treat

him like a puppy, even though he’s a grown up dog. Take him outside on the lead

every hour and stand with him. If he hasn’t gone within 5 minutes, take him back

inside. In-between visits outdoors either keep him confined to his crate [Download

Holly and Hugo’s free Crate Training guide here.] with a chew toy, or attach his

leash to your wrist so you know where he is. At the first sign of sniffing to toilet,

pop him outside and prepare to reward his clever actions.

3. Expecting training to happen quickly. It takes weeks, if not months, for the ‘penny

to drop’ for some dogs. Be prepared to be patient, and stick to the gun drill no

matter what. Consistency is king and you will win if you stick with it.

6.9 Inter-dog tension

One dog gives you so much pleasure, so two will give you twice as much. But if those two

dogs don’t get on then the dream of a happy household can quickly become a nightmare.

Dogs living in the same household who are in a constant state of conflict, are not easy to

live with. Should a fight break out, never use your hands to separate the dogs as in the

heat of the moment you are likely to get bitten. To stop the fight either try and distract

them with a rattle or a shaker, or lasso one dog with a leash and remove him from the

fray.

6.9.1 What Causes Inter-Dog Tension

We don’t necessarily get on with everyone we meet, and it’s just the same for dogs. Only

with dogs throw in the additional factors of competition for resources, hormones, and the

irritation of an upstart puppy and the tension is tighter than a suspension spring.

Factors that cause tension include:

Competition for

resources: This includes food, water, a comfy bed, and your attention.

Status: If one dog believes they are superior to another then they will

pick on the other dog until they back down.

Self-defense: A sick dog or a dog in pain may snap when another dog comes

close, in order to protect himself.

Gender issues:

The pairing most likely to fight are two female dogs. This goes

back to a female dog wanting a male partner to breed with and

no competition for resources that might be needed to rear the

puppies.

6.9.2 Preventing Inter-Dog Tension

When choosing dogs to live together, try to avoid two females dog (see 6.9.1).

If you have got female dogs, neuter them early so that hormones are less of a

flashpoint.

It can, also help to choose dogs of different sizes, for reasons that are explained in

6.9.3

Make sure there are plenty of resources such as food and water, and that no one dog

can hog them all.

If you have an old-timer and a puppy, and the puppy wants to play and won’t leave

the oldie alone, then be sure to put the puppy in time out or gently chastise him when

he’s pestering the old guy, so he gets the message to be gentle.

6.9.3 What to Do if your Dogs Don’t get Along

Dogs that really don’t get along will do each other serious harm, so take some short-term

action to keep everyone safe.

Separate the dogs and only allow them together under supervision.

Keep leads on the dogs so you can pull them apart if necessary.

Don’t leave favorite toys where either dog can reach them and then fight over

ownership.

If things start to get edgy, distract the dogs with a sudden noise (like a rattle or shaker),

slip a lasso over one of their heads and separate them.

6.9.4 Sorting the Problem in the Longer Term

It is human nature to favor the underdog (literally, in this case). However, for the dogs to

learn to get along you must go against your instinct and favor the top dog.

Most fights break out when one dog believes he’s higher status than the other and then

we upset the balance further by backing the underdog. Take this scenario as an example:

Dog 1, believes he is more important than Dog 2. Unfortunately, Dog 2 accidentally walks

too close to Dog 1’s favorite toy. Dog 1 warns Dog 2 off with a growl. The owner comes

along and feels sorry that Dog 2 is being picked on and tells Dog 1 off. The latter then

feels even more conflicted because he’s being chastised when it was his toy that was

under threat. Meanwhile, the owner has backed up Dog 2 which makes him feel braver

and more likely to stand up to Dog 1…and the tension escalates.

This situation is resolved when there is a clear winner. This is achieved by the owner

gently chastising Dog 2 for touching the other dog’s toy, which gives a clear message that

Dog 1 is boss. This straightens things out for the dogs. They both understand the status

quo and Dog 1 plays with his toy, confident in the knowledge that Dog 2 is not going to

touch it.

To increase the chances of harmony what you must do is:

Identify which is the bolder, more confident dog

Always give attention to the bolder dog first

If the bolder dog chastises the underdog, you must gently chastise the underdog and

help him understand his place

You may spot here a common complication, which is that many people elect to get the

troublemaker dog neutered. However, under some circumstances this makes the problem

worse, because it evens out authority. There is a sound argument in some cases, if both

dogs are entire, to neuter the underdog. This exaggerates the gap between the dogs and

thus helps him accept his place with less argument. If you are considering surgery this is

a delicate balance and one best talked through with your veterinarian prior to surgery, so

that you make the right decision for the long term.

6.10 Jumping Up

Jumping up to greet people is a common problem, because

dogs have a natural affinity for our faces. They want to get

close to greet us, and since we are taller than them this

means jumping up. While this might be cute in a toy dog,

it’snot such fun in a giant breed that could frighten a child

or knock an elderly person over.

There are different ways to end this behavior, so have a

think and decide which is best suited to your dog.

6.10.1 Intensive training for perfect manners

Get yourself a treat bum bag that you can wear around the house.

At different spots in the house have the dog “Sit” and reward him with treats.

Now go to places in the house where he tends to jump up.

Command him to sit, if he jumps up turn your head away and say “No.”

As he learns to calm, have him sit, and reward him.

When he’s doing that reliably, do the same exercise by the front door.

Have a friend visit and teach them to turn aside and say “No” if the dog jumps up.

Eventually the dog works out that attention stops if he jumps up, but he gets a reward

for sitting. So, he sits.

6.10.2 Step on a Lead

Keep a lead on the dog. Have a friend visit. Allow the dog to approach the friend but

position yourself so as to be able to put your foot on the leash and bring the dog up short

if he goes to jump up. Give the cue for “Sit” and reward the dog.

6.10.3 Teach an Alternative Behavior

Some dogs jump up because they are excited and just want to greet the new arrival.

Channel that energy into a different activity, such as having the dog fetch a favorite toy

when they hear the doorbell ring, ready to present to the new arrival. This also works well

for dogs that bark with excitement at guests.

6.11 Leaving Objects

Dogs will pick things up in their mouth, but some objects are too precious to take the risk

of being swallowed (a diamond ring!) while others could cause physical harm. It is

however a familiar scenario to many people that a game of chase ensues, where the

delighted dog runs away, object still in his mouth, and is delighted that he’s discovered a

new way of getting your attention.

For safety’s sake every owner should teach their dog to drop objects. See Module 6 for

the mechanics of how to teach “Drop”, while here we’ll look at one of the common pitfalls

of trying to retrieve an object.

Imagine this:

Your dog steals your favorite designer shoe. Dreading that he chews it, you jump up with

the intention of whipping it out of his mouth. The dog, however, has other ideas. Seeing

he has your attention he trots across the room. Muttering ever louder exclamations of

“Give it here, you mutt!”, you set off after him. Wagging his tail, without a care in the world,

he takes off through the house, pleased with himself for inventing a new game called

chase.

The problem here is that the dog’s bad behavior (picking up the shoe) has been rewarded

with your undivided attention. The dog is fully aware you want the shoe back, but equally

it’s worth a lot to him as a bargaining chip to keep you interested in the game. But, even

greater problems lie ahead, because the pattern is set for the future.

OK, in a one-off truly serious situation, such as the dog has a packet of medication in his

mouth, you may be forced to make a lunge for the dog, but as a way of dealing with this

problem in general it won’t work in the long term.

Instead, you need to beat him at his own game. Pretend disinterest while you get his

absolute favorite all-time chew toy. If you want to up the ante, then smear some scrummy

pate on the outside of the chew to make it extra appealing. Then, make sure he can see

you, and pretend to play with the toy. In fact, have such a good time that you forget all

about him (you don’t really, but he doesn’t have to know that).

What you’re aiming for is a confidence trick where you make him believe you have

something of higher value than that old shoe. If he believes the shoe is worthless but

there’s ayummy chew toy on offer, he’ll soon let go of the shoe without a game of chase.

Oh yes, have the dog sit before you give him the toy, so that he’s being rewarded for the

sit and not other (bad) behavior.

6.12 Over-Excited Dogs

We’ve all met them, the social hand-grenade of a

dog that explodes into a blur of inappropriate

bouncing or tears around the room knocking

everything thing over. The over-excited dog can

spoil a happy time because they quickly get out of

control and you dread them hurting themselves,

hurting someone else, or damaging property.

For over-excited dogs, learning to be calm is a skill,

just like learning bite inhibition or a ‘down-stay’.

And this is where the owner comes in, because success or failure rests on recognizing

their dog is about to go into meltdown and instigating their calming time out. But, to get to

the stage of a hyped-up dog paying attention to a time-out, it requires a lot of work behind

the scenes.

To teach a dog to calm down involves:

1 Regular training sessions: To teach the dog to listen to you

2 Plenty of exercise: So pent up energy isn’t revving their engine

3 Dog massages: To show them what calm feels like

4 Cooling off period: Halting games before they start to get over-the-top.

The first two points are self-explanatory, so let’s jump in with the third.

6.12.1 Dog Massage

Have you ever experienced the profound peace of a yoga meditation or the deep

relaxation of a massage?

Now we’re not suggesting your dog becomes a yoga master, but they can learn what

being relaxed feels like as an antidote to hyped up.

Dog massage is surprisingly easy, because it’s like petting your dog, only much slower.

Encourage your dog to lie down, perhaps after a walk so that he’s tired, a little sleepy,

and more likely to co-operate. Use firm pressure and move your hand in s-l-o-w motion

in the direction of the fur. Start on areas that he’s familiar with being touched like his back

and flanks, and repeat the ultra-slow, firm pressure strokes and watch him visibly relax.

Try the same thing with his ears, perhaps over the shoulder, and along the big muscles

of his thigh. (If your dog has health problems, first check with your vet that this is OK).

Take your time, but work like this for 20 – 30 minutes, perhaps while watching your

favorite TV show.

One trick is to put a dab of diluted chamomile oil on your hands, which will spread the

scent over his fur. Do this every time you massage him and he’ll associate the chamomile

smell with peace and relaxation, which you can use as a cue when you want to calm play

down – just pop a dab on your hand and call him over.

16.12.2 Cooling Off Period

Too many times an over-excited dog continues in a game, chasing another dog, getting

more and more excited until you fear he’s going to hurt himself.

If your dog doesn’t have self-control, then you have to teach it to him.

The learning starts during simple games at home. Get some toys ready for a play session.

Start off with a few “Sit” exercises to get pup listening, then start to play. Well before the

dog gets rowdy (this will differ for each individual), slow the calm right up and have the

dog “Sit” a few times, perhaps accompanied by a short slow massage. Once he’s proved

he can calm down, start the game off again.

If you slow up the game and the dog starts jumping at you and barking, given a curt “Uh

oh” sound, turn your back and ignore him. If he keeps on pestering then leave the room

taking the toy with you and return when he’s calmed down. Have him “Sit” then resume

the game, only to pause again a tad earlier than previously so he’s less revved up.

If he gets too rowdy, stop the fun. The message being that it pays to be calm because

the game continues.

Likewise, the massage will help him to enjoy ‘time out’ so he doesn’t see that as a

punishment.

6.13 Poor Recall

We looked at how to teach recall in Module 3, but here we’re going to consider how things

go wrong.

Your dog is enjoying a game in the park. It’s time to go. You call him. He carries on

playing. You call…and call…and call. Eventually, half an hour later, after stomping around

the park in a game of cat and mouse, you’re fuming and he eventually decides he’s tired

and comes to you. By now you’re late for work. You snap on the leash, give him a smack

on the rump, and head off home.

Can you spot why you’ve just taught the dog NOT to come to recall? OK, let’s list them.

1. Even though the dog took an age, he eventually came to you. At which point you

smacked him. This has the effect of punishing the recall, not rewarding it.

2. You put the leash on and go straight home. In the dog’s mind, the leash signals

end-of-fun, which makes him reluctant to have his freedom curtailed. Again, he’s

been punished for coming.

So what should you do?

1. When he eventually comes to recall, grit your teeth (no matter how angry you are)

and make a huge fuss of him. Remember the more you reward him for coming

now, the quicker he’ll do it in future.

2. Rather than let him play right up until you have to leave the park, deliberately end

the game 5 – 10 minutes early. Pop him on the leash, then play a game of tug or

take him for a walk, telling him what a good boy he is as you go. The idea is to

teach him the fun doesn’t stop when the leash is on.

Get the picture? Stay positive, no matter how aggravating his behavior, and always

reward good behavior.

6.14 Possessiveness

We touched on possessiveness in food guarding (Module 6.7) and leaving objects

(Module 6.11).

Some dogs have a possessive streak. The

trouble is it can be dangerous, especially if you

have children in the house. A child who tries to

take a prized toy from a possessive dog could

end up getting badly bitten. In fact,

possessiveness is best thought of as a form of

aggression triggered by ownership of toys, food, or space.

The typical possessive dog may carry his prize objects around, guard them, or even hide

them. The problem comes when you try to take the object from him (or he believes you

are about to – which can be more dangerous as you don’t anticipate the flashpoint) and

he growls, snarls, or bites in retaliation.

The principles of coping with a possessive dog include:

1. Teach “Leave It” – See Module 6, for those times when you have to get that special

something out of his mouth.

2. Don’t leave toys of high value out for the dog to guard and become possessive

over.

3. Buy several of the same high value toy so that, if necessary, you can trade one for

another (and teach him to give items in the process). Through regular training

sessions with low value toys, teach him the idea of trading one toy for another, so

he becomes accustomed to yielding toys to you.

Never confront a possessive dog and try to take items from him. You may get away with

it once, but when he realizes what you’re about, the next time he may bite and do serious

harm. Get away from the idea that you should be able to take his toys away in order to

show him who’s boss, this will end in injury (yours!).

6.15 Pulling on the Leash

This is an all too common problem. It’s time for a much anticipated walk to the park. You

put the leash on the dog, they charge out of the door ahead of you and proceed to drag

you down the road on the end of a tight leash. If your dog is small, this is an inconvenience

and looks bad, but if you have a large dog then you could end up flat on your face. In fact,

many small dogs are much worse at walking precisely because you can just about stay

upright, whereas a big dog forces the issue because of the risk of falling over.

To sort this problem it helps to understand that pulling on the lead is its own reward; that

is dogs associate the pulling sensation with getting where they want to go. In their mind,

pulling gets them to a fun destination more quickly. Therefore, the answer is to turn things

around so they link NOT pulling with getting where they want to go. To do this takes

patience. Start training when you aren’t in a hurry and it doesn’t matter if you don’t get

where you want to go (you have be prepared not to move far).

Method A involves stopping every time the dog pulls and walking in the opposite direction.

The dog pulls again, you stop, turn around, and walk until the dog pulls again. Basically,

you go nowhere. The dog will eventually realize that when he pulls, you stop and get

further away, rather than achieving what he wants. As he starts to walk on a slack lead,

praise him, and keep walking. Help him understand that less is more in terms of getting

to the park.

Method B you can do in the back yard. With the dog on the leash, set a totally tasty treat

on the ground a few feet away, let the dog see it and walk towards it. If the dog pulls, then

make a disapproving noise and return to the start. Repeat. Set off, and as soon as he

pulls give a signal that he did wrong and then return to base. This helps him understand

that he only gets to the treat when he walks without pulling.

Once he gets the message, then practice in other locations so that he learns to walk on

a loose lead in different places, not just the back yard.

6.16 Separation Anxiety

This hugely distressing condition, both for dog and

owner, is more common in shelter dogs. It takes the form

of the dog being over dependent on the owner’s

company and not coping when they leave. The dog may

vocalize (whine or bark), attempt to escape (digging or

chewing), and become frantically restless as a

displacement activity. [Download Holly and Hugo’s free guide to building trust ]

Separation anxiety is often deep-seated and is a difficult problem to solve, especially as

it’s inevitable the dog has to be left during rehabilitation. The principle of helping a dog to

overcome separation anxiety revolves around rewarding calm, independent behavior,

uncoupling departure cues from the act of leaving, and decreasing the anxiety caused by

departure.

If your dog has severe separation anxiety then medication prescribed by your vet may

blunt some of the physical sensations of panic and distress, which helps the dog respond

to retraining. As with so many behavioral issues this is a complex area and a qualified

behaviorist is best placed to put a plan in place to help. The following table gives you an

idea of the strategies which may help.

Aim Action

Teach independence

Have the dog lie on a mat on the

far side of the room, give a chew

toy to distract him, and spend time

out of the room.

Ignore attention seeking behavior.

Initiate interactions and reward the

dog for “Sit” and doing what you

ask.

Practice the dog sitting on his bed,

leaving the room (for longer and

longer) and reward him for staying.

Desensitize to Departure

Vary your leaving routine e.g., Pick

up car keys but don’t leave the

house, wear your coat but without

going out, exit by a different door.

Distract the dog with a chew toy,

put on a cue such as a CD, and

leave unnoticed through a different

door. Return and reward him.

Practice short departures with the

CD on, as a cue that you will return

shortly.

Distractions prior to departure

Exercise and play prior to

departure so the dog is tired.

Ensure plenty of play, exercise,

and social time through the day,

but expect the dog to rest away

from you.

Give a high value toys 15 min. prior

to departure and allow dog to

settle. Remove the toy on return so

it’s only available in your absence.

Care with confinement

Train the dog to accept a crate and

be relaxed in it.

Ensure the dog is relaxed in the

crate while you are elsewhere in

the house.

Never shut the dog in a crate if he

will be distressed and try to escape

in your absence.

Coming home Keep the return home low key.

Greet the dog only once he is calm.

Training

Ensure plenty of basic obedience

training. This helps him understand

you are in control and he is safe,

increasing his general confidence

level and decreasing background

anxieties.