Module 2 – Functional Natural Cosmetic Ingredients PCF ...

Module 2 – Functional Natural Cosmetic Ingredients

PCF – Natural Cosmetics Perry Romanowski

Objective: After completing this lesson you’ll know the basic functional ingredients used to create cosmetics and natural alternatives to standard technologies.

Hello and welcome to the second module of Natural Cosmetic Formulating. I'm your instructor Perry Romanowski. In the first module we introduced you to the various standards groups and their definitions of natural. Hopefully, you've thought about your own standards for natural and have developed a definition that you support. This is important to prepare you for the things you will learn in future modules. The rest of this course will focus on natural raw materials and formulations. These are the specific details you need to actually create natural cosmetic formulations yourself.

In this module we are going to introduce you to the primary functional cosmetic ingredients and some natural alternatives to standard technologies. This will provide you with the proper knowledge needed for formulating natural cosmetics.

As always let's begin with the objective of this lesson. The primary objective of this lesson is to teach you the natural ingredients used to create cosmetics and personal care products. We will begin with a discussion about how ingredients are classified as natural. There are several ways to figure out the “naturalness” and we will review those methods. Then we will cover the different types of ingredients that are considered natural based on their function in the formula. Finally, we will cover the ingredients are generally unacceptable, even if they are common for regular products. This will help you steer clear of ingredients that might make your product seem less natural.

Before we begin talking about specific ingredients it makes sense to discuss the differences between “natural” ingredients and “not natural” ingredients.

As we saw in the first module “natural” has no legal meaning. However, the term does have a meaningto certification groups, product distributors, cosmetic manufacturers and consumers. How you define natural ingredients will impact the ingredients you use. Here are some things to consider.

Ingredient source

What is the source of the ingredient? Cosmetic ingredients can be made in a variety of ways. The most simple way is by directly obtaining them from nature. This would apply to ingredients like essential oils, resins, juices or other materials which are taken directly from plants. If you are a Tier 1 or Tier 2 natural formulator the raw materials you use for making cosmetics must be obtained in this manner. Unfortunately, that severely limits the ingredients you can use since there are very few things taken directly from nature that can provide the benefits that people want from cosmetics.

It's also notable that there are ingredients that can be taken directly from nature but most people don't consider them natural. For example, crude oil, coal and natural gas all exist in nature and are not man-

©2015 Element 44 Inc PCF – Natural Cosmetic Formulating

made. They don't qualify as natural however. Also, many people object to animal derived ingredients like gelatin, milks, lanolin, and even beeswax. Standards like COSMOS allows these but many others don't.

Another way to obtain cosmetic raw materials is to chemically modify them. As we also saw in the first module, there are some synthetic chemical processes that are allowable by standards but others that are not. In this module we are going to focus on ingredients that would be allowable by most natural cosmetic standards. It's possible that you won't agree with all the suggestions that I make as you may be following a more strict standard for natural. However, in this class we are trying to provide you the widest range of ingredients that you could reasonably use in natural formulating.

The reason formulating natural products is so difficult is because you are limited to the amount and type of ingredients you're allowed to use. It is like a painter trying to create a picture but not being allowed to use all the colors available. You can still make a great picture, it's just a lot harder.

Since you'll be making products for consumers it is important that you understand what your consumer believes is natural or not. And it's also helpful to understand how easily misinformed they can be. I once saw a video which was meant to demonstrate people were asked to sign a petition banning dihydrogen monoxide. The chemical sounds scary and it even causes a lot of deaths every year. Presented in this way would cause many consumers to steer clear of the material. But presented with its more common name, water, people aren't nearly as afraid. The danger hasn't changed as water does kill people in a number of ways every year, but the way consumers see it is somehow different. Just understand that sometimes things can have an unnatural chemical name but are perfectly natural and safe.

Some companies and brands have attempted to combat this consumer misunderstanding by emphasizing the source of their raw materials. Here is an example....

As you are putting together your brand identity and formulations you should know the source of any compound you use that is synthetic. This is a requirement for most of the natural certification standards but it can also be useful for your marketing story. The way to get this information is to ask your suppliers for detailed information about your ingredients. If your supplier will not provide you with this information, you shouldn't use them as ingredient suppliers.

Renewable ingredientsWhile it is important to use natural ingredients, it is also important to use renewable or sustainable ingredients. But you might wonder what exactly does this mean? And how is it calculated? There is actually a pretty standard calculation in the cosmetics industry called the Renewable Carbon Index. This was developed so scientists can figure out what percentage of a certain molecule or formulation is renewable. It’s pretty simple. You take the number of carbons from a renewable source and divide by the total carbons in the molecule. A renewable source would be plant-derived. A non-renewable source would be derived from crude oil.

Here is an example of a surfactant called Lauryl / Myristyl Amidopropyl Amine Oxide. This molecule is made from a plant source and a petroleum source. The long chain fatty hydrocarbon is derived from a plant and represents 13 total carbons. For people who are familiar with organic chemistry this should


make sense. If you don't have a background in organic chemistry all you need to know is that the number of carbons in this molecule from the fatty portion is 13. The part that is not renewable is the amidopropyl amine. It has a total of 5 carbons. So the renewable carbon index in this molecule is equal to the number of renewable carbons, 13, divided by the number of total carbons, 18. This is equal to 72% or 72% renewable. That is not bad but as a natural formulator you will want to strive for an even higher renewable index score. When selecting molecules to work with ask your suppliers for their renewable carbon score.

Ingredients in cosmeticsPeople who took the initial Practical Cosmetic Formulating or have some background in cosmetics should know that there are a number of ways to discuss the ingredients used to make cosmetics but focusing on their primary purpose for being in the formula makes the most sense. If you need more details about the general category of ingredients we are going to discuss I would encourage you to go through our Practical Formulating Course.

Categorizing ingredients by the function isn't a perfect way to discuss them since some ingredients have multiple functions, but it provides a good framework for the discussion. Basically, there are three reasons to use an ingredient to a formula, functional reasons, aesthetic and marketing.

Functional ingredients are used to provide the primary benefit to the consumer who is using the product. These are the ingredients that clean the skin, condition hair, provide moisturization or even color. They are also the so-called active ingredients that make over the counter drugs work.

Aesthetic ingredients are technologies that make the formulas look and feel better. The problem with many functional ingredients is that they do not feel nice or apply well on their own. They may even smell bad. Aesthetic ingredients improve the experience of using these cosmetics.

Marketing ingredients are the last category and these are ingredients that are added to the formula specifically to help support the marketing story. They are not expected to do anything in the formulation. These ingredients are important since they are often the entire reason for purchasing the product but they are not expected to actually have a significant impact on the performance of the formula. Natural consumers prefer to buy moisturizing products with Aloe Vera rather than Petrolatumeven though the latter ingredient actually provides better moisturization benefits.

In this module we will be focusing on the Functional ingredients and provide natural options. In module 3 we will focus on the aesthetic and marketing ingredients.

Functional Cosmetic Ingredients Here are the most important functional raw materials for all types of cosmetics.

• Surfactants• Conditioning and Moisturizing ingredients• Colorants• Fragrance ingredients • Active Ingredients


Surfactants are ingredients used for a variety of purposes but we will focus primarily on their use as cleansers in this module.

Conditioning and Moisturizing ingredients are materials that improve the feel or condition of whatever surface they are put on including the skin or hair. They typically have an 'oily' nature and for them to be effective they must also be substantive or left behind on the surface in some way. Materials that are easily washed away do not make good conditioning or moisturizing ingredients. These ingredients are the easiest one for which to find natural options.

Actives are ingredients that actually perform some type of specific effect. My definition for actives is different than most of you are used to as I only consider ingredients that have proven effects to be active ingredients. This limits them to things that have been granted monograph status for an OTC by the FDA.

Colors are ingredients used in formulas to change the color of the surface of skin and hair. They can also be used to change the color of the base formula so they have both functional and aesthetic uses. Fragrances also have multiple effects but since they can be used to change the odor of the hair and skin we will look at them in this module.

Because the focus of this course is on natural ingredients and products we won't dwell too much on the chemistry of each ingredient type. Instead you'll get a brief overview of what the ingredient is mainly used for in formulations then we'll focus on natural options. If you want more detail on specific ingredient types our course Practical Cosmetic Formulating has more about that.

Primary SurfactantsWe begin our look at functional ingredients with surfactants. Perhaps the most important of all cosmetic ingredients are surfactants. They have so many useful applications that the cosmetic industry probably wouldn't exist if it wasn't for surfactants. In cosmetics surfactants are used for cleansing, foaming, thickening, emulsification, solubilization, penetration enhancement, antimicrobial effects, andother special effects.

Surfactant is a word that is formed from the phrase, surface active agent. The key property of surfactant molecules that make them useful cosmetic ingredients is that they are compatible with both water and oil. When put in a water solution they naturally create structures with lipophilic (meaning oilloving) portions aligning with lipids (or oils) and hydrophilic (water loving) portions aligning with water.

The molecule pictured below is sodium lauryl sulfate, one of the most common surfactants used in personal care products. It's also one which is not allowed for use by most every natural formulating certification standard.

The term sulfate is typically a negative in the minds of most consumers who are looking for natural products. Coincidentally, it is also a term in raw material names that are unacceptable by most standards. There are three major classes of surfactants containing sulfate that are frequently used in conventional cleansing products that are not acceptable for most natural product formulations. These include sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and alkyl sulfates. We'll go into each category separately, then look at some surfactants that you can use as acceptable replacements for these.


The first class is sulfosuccinates. These products are secondary surfactants that are often used in bubble baths and children’s products because of their mildness. Four types are considered unacceptableaccording to the Whole Foods list including Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleamido Sulfosuccinate, Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, and Laureth Sulfosuccinate. You'll notice that three ofthese ingredients are circled. That's because these are not actually approved cosmetic ingredient names. This is one of the problems with following a standard put together by someone else. They don't always have accurate information. Cosmetic ingredients are supposed to follow the names defined in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary (the INCI). These banned ingredients don't actually have the proper chemical names. But for the moment we will ignor that because they made a note of it on their list that they know it’s not compliant. There are other sulfosuccinates not on the Whole Foods banned list you could technically use, but for this module we will focus on other more natural options that Whole Foods as well as other governing bodies will accept.

Before we get into alternatives to sulfosuccinates it's useful to mention the format we'll follow for the rest of this module. First, we'll highlight some examples of the banned ingredients and what you mightuse them for in formulating, then we'll offer a few alternatives for you might use instead. We are goingto use the Whole Foods banned list to guide the discussion but we'll also note their COSMOS status. There might be some repetition because it would be appropriate to replace one material for a few different classes of materials. Don’t worry, at the end of this course in the bonus materials there will bea single list you can reference of all the products that are not on the Whole Foods banned list.

For this class of product, you could substitute a Sultaine for a Sulfosuccinate. They are not quite as mild as sulfosuccinates, but they will help build viscosity in systems better than Sulfosuccinates while having similar foam. An example of something you could use is Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine

A second replacement option for Sulfosuccinates are Acyl Sarcosinates. They are high foaming secondary surfactants that create a luxurious type of foam and are also more stable than sulfosuccinates. An example would be Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate.

You may say to yourself at this point that the alternatives don’t sound any less like a chemical than the one that is banned on the Whole Foods list. Just keep in mind they are taking into account other factorssuch as biodegradability, sustainability, and whatever some NGOs think of the products. For surfactants, you’ll find it’s impossible for something to sound as natural as say, shea butter, yet still foam and clean properly. When we get into the next module, there will be some more natural soundingoptions. It should be noted that Sulfosuccinates, Sarcosinates, and Sultaines are all banned by the COSMOS standards.

The next group of surfactants that are useful in cleansing products but are banned by the Whole Foods list are Sulfonates. Sulfonates are often used instead of sulfates for people to claim “sulfate-free” because they have similar foaming and cleansing properties. The banned ingredients include Ammonium Xylene Sulfonate, C12-C14 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate, Olefin Sulfonate, and Sodium C12-C14 Olefin Sulfonate. Again, there are some mistakes on the Whole Foodslist when it comes to the ingredient names, but the overall message is to stay away from these types of ingredients if you want to avoid problems of not being natural enough.


However, these sulfonate ingredients are very similar to sulfates and are the easiest way to make a really nice product that will perform as well as the current market. Remember when we talked about your definition of natural, these may be an option for you if you’re toward the greenwashing part of thepyramid. However, Whole Foods won’t accept them and neither will the COSMOS standard.

The best option as a natural alternative to sulfonates are alkyl polyglucosides. They are natural surfactants derived from coconut oil and sugar. They are also biodegradable. Unfortunately, they are tricky to work with because they do not build viscosity well and they don't foam as well as sulfonates but they are considered more natural. Another drawback is that they are more expensive than most other primary surfactants so your finished formula will cost more than standard formulas. A typical example of an alkyl polyglucoside is Lauryl Glucoside.

The next class and most common in shampoo and body wash are sulfates. On the Whole Foods list they pretty much banned every type of sulfate available on the market. If you’re trying to formulate a natural product for anyone it’s probably best to stay away from these entirely. If you’re just trying to greenwash, these are perfectly fine and you’ll be able to make a very effective product if one of these isyour primary surfactant.

So what can you use instead if you want to be more natural than just a greenwashed product? As with the example for sulfonates, you can use alkyl polyglucosides. Again, they just aren’t as easy to work with or effective but they will work.

All of the surfactant examples we have discussed thus far are synthetic ingredients. Even the "natural" ones are chemically synthesized from natural sources. But there is one class of surfactant that is more natural than most since no synthetic manipulation is required. These are Saponins which are obtained from marine plants. An example of one is Quillaja Saponaria Molina. These compounds are very difficult to purify, which makes them very expensive and hard to obtain. They also aren't nearly as effective as your typical synthetic surfactants. For instance they produce about 40% less foam than typical sulfates. However, if you’re trying to formulate in the Tier 1 or Tier 2 level using Saponins is an option. They have a natural sounding name and a good story so maybe the cost and lower performance are worth it. One final formulation challenge is that these ingredients are very dark in color, so formulating a light or clear product may be impossible.

Here are some of the other commercially available saponins. You can try Bio-Saponins from Bio-Botanica, Neo Actipone Soap Nutshell from Symerise, and Andean QD Ultra from Desert King which is from a Chilean Soap Bark Tree. There are not many suppliers as you can see. They all offer different varieties so you can choose which supplier you want if you choose to work with this type of product. These ingredients would be appropriate for most any natural standard.

Secondary Surfactants The next class of surfactant we’ll discuss are secondary surfactants. The most common of these ingredients are betaines. Secondary surfactants are added to formulas for a wide variety of reasons but their primary purpose in cleansing systems is to boost foam, increase viscosity, and reduce irritation. On occasion these ingredients are used as the primary detergent too.

Strangely enough Whole Foods sells Betaine HCl as a health food supplement but bans it from being used in cosmetics. For some reason they believe it's OK to put Betaine in your body but not outside


your body. It doesn’t make sense but that is one of the biggest challenges to formulating to someone else's natural standard. We should note that Betaines are generally OK if you’re going for COSMOS certification. Of course, they have to be plant derived.

Here is a list of the banned secondary surfactants from the Whole Foods list. Their list has some problems again with not following INCI names, but for the most part, it seems they don’t want people using this class of product. However, it is curious why the most common betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine isn’t on their banned list. I have checked and there are some products in Whole Foods that have Cocamidopropyl Betaine so just make sure if they will accept before you formulate with it. Another thing to mention is if you look at the banned list you’ll notice the note on most of these is that it's OK if proven from a natural source. Most of the fatty portions of these molecules are derived from coconut oil, so that should be OK.

While most Betaines are on the banned list you can still use them if you can produce the proper documentation that they are naturally derived. These ingredients are also allowed if you are following the COSMOS standard. However, if you want to avoid having to show the paperwork and get the extraverification from your suppliers, there are a variety of alternative ingredients that OK to use. The secondary surfactants that are the closest match in performance are Sultaines. They are nearly identicalin foam and viscosity building when used with most primary surfactants. However, you could also opt to go with an Acyl Methyl Taurate, an Acyl Isethionate, or an Acyl Sarcosinate. All of those options have slight disadvantages vs. sultaine, but to some they might sound more natural on a label. The biggest disadvantage would be cost. Sultaines are the least expensive option of these ingredients. Unfortunately, most of these alternative ingredients are not allowed when following the COSMOS standard.

AmidesThe next class of surfactants we'll look at are amides. They are widely used as secondary surfactants along with betaine in many cleansing formulations. They give products luxurious foam and also help build viscosity in foaming systems. Recently, California placed DEA, or diethanolamine on their Prop 65 list. The Prop 65 list is a list of ingredients that are demonstrated to cause cancer in laboratory animals. The testing levels are typically much higher than consumers would ever be exposed to in cosmetics however, if you use these ingredients you have to put a cancer warning on your product. As you can imagine putting a cancer warning on your cosmetic is not a great idea especially if you are trying to position yourself as "natural." Even companies who are not going for the natural consumer are switching away from products containing DEA because of this.

If you used Cocamide MIPA you can avoid any trace of DEA, but it’s not acceptable for the Whole Foods list. It might still be an option depending on what level of natural you are formulating to. Certainly it would be OK if you’re in the greenwashing level.

If you want to avoid Amides completely you could use Sultaines. I know at this point it sounds like sultaines are a magic ingredient and for the time being it looks like they are. There is not yet any negative press on them, and they perform so well as a secondary surfactant across all aspects including cost they really are the best option. At some point they may come under fire but take advantage of them now. You can also use Betaines, with the caveat you’ll have to show they are from natural sources. If you use Cocamidopropyl Betaine, that might get through without question.


A new class not mentioned yet are Amphoacetates. They can be used in place of amides. They don’t build viscosity or foam quite as well, but they are cost competitive to this class. You could also try using these in place of sulfosuccinates. They are very mild and historically used in baby shampoos.

To wrap up the surfactant section, there are several limitations when trying to formulate with natural surfactants. The first thing is there are fewer options. When you limit the primary surfactants you can use, that really leaves fewer things in your toolbox with which to formulate. The things that are actually derived directly from nature are less foaming and have other drawbacks. SLS is pretty much the best foaming option you have and this is what the vast majority of consumers are used to. Some of these alternatives leave a residual feel that might be unpleasant and will require some other formulatingtricks to make it less noticeable. The colors of the natural alternatives are sometimes darker, so formulating clear or light colored products may be difficult. The last issue is irritation. Some of the natural surfactants are just soap, which is the reaction product of a natural oil with a strong base. An example is Potassium Oleate. That’s just a simple soap you can make in your kitchen. Soaps are notoriously drying and irritating to skin and they are not good to use on hair.

If you are making cleansing products while trying to be as natural as possible, you are going to have a difficult time. And if you are competing against companies who are using a greenwashing strategy it's going to be very difficult to overcome the negatives of alternatives.

Although, when we talk about the formulating of cleansing products we'll give you some formulation tips on how to overcome some of these challenges.

Conditioning and Moisturizing ingredients The next class of functional ingredients we'll cover are conditioners and moisturizers. Conditioning and Moisturizing ingredients are materials that improve the feel or condition of whatever surface they are put on including the skin or hair. They typically have an 'oily' nature and for them to be effective they must also be substantive or left behind on the surface in some way. Materials that are easily washed away do not make good conditioning or moisturizing ingredients.

There are a wide range of different types of conditioning and moisturizing ingredients but the most typical ones include.

• Quats - (Cationic Surfactants)• Cationic Polymers - longer molecules that can bind to hair and skin• Occlusive agents - ingredients that form a film a moisturize by preventing water loss• Humectants - which attract water to surfaces like hair and skin• Emollients - which are oils that change the feel of surfaces

Cationic SurfactantsThe first type of conditioning ingredient we'll cover are cationic surfactants. These are also known as Quaternary Ammonium Compounds, Quaternized compounds or just simply “Quats.” They contain atleast one Nitrogen atom bonded to 4 other hydrocarbon groups. In the example here you can see Nitrogen bonded to a Cetyl group and then 3 other Methyl (CH3) groups. This part of the molecule is positively charged so it is associated with a negative ion, Chlorine. Together they make Cetrimonium Chloride. This is a common ingredient in many hair conditioners.


Unfortunately, for most natural standards you can't use these quaternized ingredients. Here is a list of quats that are on the Whole Foods banned list. This is a pretty much a comprehensive list of all popular quats commonly used in personal care. They did leave some off the list so you might be able to use those if you are trying to formulate to the Whole Foods list. Note that none of these product class are approved according to COSMOS.

If you’d like to use the same class of cationic surfactant, then you could just go with the ingredients Whole Foods did not list on their banned list such as Behentrimonium Chloride or Stearalkonium Chloride. If you want to stay away from this class and you might want to because they may eventually discover this oversight, there are some tertiary amines such as Alkamidopropyl Dimethylamine which will become cationic in acid pH systems, such as conditioners.

Note they did ban a couple of tertiary amines including popular conditioner ingredients Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine and Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine. You could use any other fatty chain instead though since there are several others available. The last option you could use are Cationic Polymers. The Whole Foods list does allow some of them, and they will be discussed in the next few slides.

Basically, there is no such a thing as a completely natural cationic surfactant. You need to go through some chemical synthesis to create them. COSMOS doesn’t have any approved for their standard. You can use the link in this slide to search for ingredients that are approved or not by COSMOS. Unlike theWhole Foods list, COSMOS has an approved list so if it’s not on there, you can’t use it.

Whole Foods doesn’t really use cationic surfactants in their own products. I did find one of their conditioners contained Behentrimonium Chloride but that was launched in 2009 and it looks like it wasreformulated to remove it.

If you are a follower of the Environmental Working Group Skin Deep database, cationic surfactants areclassified as generally low risk. This really is a good example of the confusion around natural products. Here is one class of chemical that is anywhere from completely banned, to low risk depending on what natural standard you follow. The Whole Foods standard is somewhere in the middle where certain types are still useable.

Cationic Polymers Cationic polymers are commonly used in hair conditioners and shampoos. They also find some use in skin creams. These products are long chained molecules that have multiple positive charges which makes them highly substantive to hair and skin.

This is a list of the most common cationic polymers used in the personal care industry. They provide a nice smooth feel on the hair and skin. Let’s look at which ones are not allowed on the Whole Foods listfirst. You can see that they ban Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, and Polyquaternium-51. Of these, Polyquat 7 and Polyquat 10 are the most frequently used in standard cosmetic products.

The banned list is not extensive, and they don’t go out of their way to ban the class of products called Polyquaterniums. There are a number of alternative Polyquaternium ingredients as they go all the way


from Polyquaternium 6 to Polyquaternium 84. They also don’t mention Guar derivatives at all. Then the best thing to use would be a Quaternized Guar instead. If you’d like to stick with synthetic Polyquats, you could still use things like Polyquaternium 6 or Polyquaternium 22. There are other less common ones that would also be appropriate. However, these are going to be less natural than guar derivatives so you might want to stay with that as your conditioning agent. The EWG gives quaternized Guar a very good score. 1 out of 10 for risk, which is very low.

If you’re going for the COSMOS standard, stay away from cationic polymers. None of them are approved. There are probably not many very effective hair conditioners that are COSMOS approved because there just aren't approved cationics so the finished products won’t have the substantivity of products with cationic molecules in them. You'll be limited to heavier feeling ingredients which we will talk about next.

SiliconesThe next class of conditioning ingredients we will discuss are silicones. In conventional products theseare used for both hair and skin products. They give excellent shine, slip on skin and they provide a nicefeel on skin. There has recently been more of a backlash against silicones due to their lack of biodegradability. In fact I recently saw a story in which researchers had found a build-up of cyclomethicone in the soil in Antarctica. This suggests that volatile silicones from beauty products make their way to the atmosphere and are deposited in places all over the globe. Fortunately, there are no known negative effects but it is somewhat disturbing to know that is happening.

Another issue with silicones is that some people feel they build up over time. They actually do, but with some good formulating techniques you can avoid that negative effect and only get the good properties of silicones, which are many.

There are a few basic varieties of silicone, and I won’t go into much detail as it’s covered in our Practical Cosmetic Formulating class. The four basic types are cyclomethicone, dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, and dimethicone copolyol. There are all kinds of ways you can chemically modify silicones to produce other molecules with different textures and effects but these four are the ones used by the majority of standard cosmetic product manufacturers.

When we look at silicones that are listed on the Whole Foods banned list we discover that they really haven't banned many specific ones, but they caught the major silicone classes and most silicone raw materials are typically a blend made with one of these. The banned ingredients include Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Phenyltrimethicone, and Simethicone. Strangely, they didn't ban Dimethicone specifically but there is good reason not to formulate with it in your formulations. This is because many LOHAS consumers are savvy enough to know that a chemical with the word "cone" in it is a silicone and they avoid them. If you are trying to formulate to a Tier 3 standard you should avoid using silicones. And the Skin Deep Database lists Dimethicone with a safety score of 3. If you’re following some standard that involves the EWG, remember that 3 is the magic number. According to some natural standards ingredients that have a safety score of 3 or less by EWG is fine fora natural type of product.

As far as the natural standards of COSMOS and Ecocert go, you can't use silicones. The only thing with the word "cone" in it that is approved for use is coneflower extract. This cone doesn't refer to silicones. You’ll notice in this case that Whole Foods and COSMOS are the toughest on silicones,


while the EWG thinks they are fine. This is a great example of the ambiguity between natural certification and determination group mentioned in the previous module. This is exactly why it's best for you to come up with your own definition of natural and have some way to defend it based on your own interpretation. Some of the things these groups decide just do not make scientific (or sometimes even logical) sense. Also, they may change their mind on things for no reason. At the moment GMO ingredients are fine to use for the Natural Products Association standards but in the future they may not.

The reason that formulators use silicones is that they provide some excellent benefits. They really are materials unmatched for their lightness, shininess, and slippery feel. It's hard to make products that work equally as well without them. However, it's not impossible.

Since silicones are banned from most natural standards, a number of raw material producers have created ingredients that are advertised as silicone replacements. These ingredients are supposed to mimic the effect of silicones but still be approved by most natural standards.

There is a line from Inolex called Lexfeel. This is a mixture of two types of esters blended at different ratios to get the different viscosities. They are said to feel similar to Cyclomethicone or Dimethicone depending on the variety you choose. This blend is also allowed by the Whole Foods list. Currently, they are not registered for the COSMOS standard but they are said to meet the criteria of COSMOS. If there is enough demand in the future to get certified it's likely the company will do that.

Another silicone replacement option is the Cetiol line from BASF. These products were tested verses silicones and found to have similar performance. These ingredients are emollients with INCI names of Coco-caprylate and Dicaprylyl Carbonate, which sound pretty natural in comparison to other options. A word of caution as these relate to the Whole Foods list. A few of the ingredients like these are flagged so the product manufacturer has to show that the origin of the raw material is from natural sources. Also, there is a caprylyl derivative that is on the banned list.

One final option to replace silicone is to use a straight ester. Esters are a type of molecule that is a straight chain hydrocarbon. Essentially, it is just a purified oil with a low molecular weight. Croda supplies several versions and one they point out specifically to replace silicone is Crodamol STS. The STS stands for superior to silicone. According to the Whole Foods standard these esters are OK to use. In general, esters are good replacements for silicone and there are several options. The ingredients listed on this slide have been specifically tested against silicones and found to have similar performance.

Of course, if these silicone replacements were as good as silicones there would be little reason to use silicones. While these products can imitate many of the characteristics of silicones they aren't likely to match the shininess, slickness and unique feel of silicones. As a natural formulator it will be your job to get as close to matching as you can.

HumectantsThe next class of moisturizer is humectants. These are ingredients that are able to attract moisture to the skin. They are found in nearly all good skin creams and some hair products use them too. Some common examples include Glycerin, Hyarluronic acid, Propylene glycol, Sodium PCA, Sorbitol and more. The molecule on the right is Glycerin and it is the most commonly used humectant in cosmetics.


It's also a byproduct of soap production so you'll see this ingredient in some soaps.

As far as natural formulating goes you have many humectant options. The Whole Foods list only restricts a couple of them including Propylene Glycol and Butylene Glycol. So, you can use this ingredient type pretty freely and there are several options other to replace propylene glycol and butylene glycol. It is interesting to note that COSMOS does not allow propylene glycol, but it does allow butylene glycol.

If you are looking for alternatives you can use anything from the first slide not on the banned list. Humectants all work in a similar way and are somewhat interchangeable. Most people choose to use glycerin because it’s the most cost effective solution and consumers know the ingredient and like it. Glycerin is widely used in cosmetics right now and will likely be used extensively in the future. The only thing to watch out for when using glycerin is to make sure it comes from a non-animal source. Sometimes it can be made from tallow say when making a tallow based soap, but most glycerin used incosmetics is from a vegetable source. You need to check with your chemical supplier to make sure it isplant based.

Also, many herbal extracts are supplied in a solvent of propylene glycol. If you are going to include a natural extract in your product you'll want to ensure that the supplier is not using propylene glycol as the solvent. Other ingredients used as replacements in this case are water, ethanol or even glycerin.

Occlusive AgentsOcclusive agents are the next important class of moisturizer. They are some of the most effective skin moisturizers available working by creating a water insoluble barrier on the skin. This helps to trap moisture at the surface of skin and provides long lasting moisturization. The most common (and effective) examples include Petrolatum, Mineral Oil and Dimethicone. Unfortunately, none of these effective ingredients are acceptable for natural formulating. The Whole Foods list bans these ingredients as does the COSMOS standards. Pretty much all natural standards ban petroleum derived ingredients and it doesn't matter how well an ingredient works if it is derived from crude oil it is probably out. Fortunately, there are other natural occlusive ingredients that can provide some benefits.

Natural butters are great choices for occlusive ingredients. These include ingredients like Shea Butter, Mango Butter, or Cocoa Butter. They have a similar texture and effect as petrolatum. The drawback isthat they can be more sticky and less effective but you can make fine working formulas using these options. Another natural occlusive to use is Beeswax. It is commonly used as the main occlusive agentin lip care products. There are also raw material companies making products they claim as suitable petrolatum replacement which we'll include in future bonus material.

EmollientsThe last class of moisturizing ingredients commonly used is emollients. They form a light coating on the skin and used to improve the feel. There are several examples of them. The silicone we mentioned previously can be classified as emollients. Another commonly used example is Isoparaffin. Unfortunately, for natural formulators neither of these are allowed by the COSMOS standard. The silicones are not allowed if you are formulating to the Whole Foods standard either.

Another type of emollient is an ester. Esters are compounds created by reacting a fatty alcohol with an organic acid. Depending on the ingredients reacted they can be clear, thin liquids or translucent,


thicker liquids. For natural cosmetic formulating some esters are allowed while others aren't. We'll go more into detail in the coming slides. But first let's look at the banned emollients.

There are really only two common emollients that are on the Whole Foods banned list. These include Isopropyl Myristate and Myristyl Myristate. I remember when I first started formulating I used Myristyl Myristate as a pearling agent for a shampoo I was working on. It was an unconventional use of the ingredient but it could have lead to a patent. Unfortunately, someone else has just made the same discovery about a year before I started my work on it. So, I didn't get that patent on Myristyl Myristate. Darn. A good thing I guess because it can't be used in natural products that are being sold at Whole Foods.

If you are looking for direct replacements for these banned ingredients there are some common esters you could use instead. For example Octyl Palmitate or Isopropyl Palmitate have similar performance qualities as the two banned ingredients. Of course, there are other options if you are willing to open yourself up to different categories of ingredients.

It should be noted when you are doing this natural formulating you may either be taking a standard existing formula and trying to make it more natural. In that case you want to use ingredients that are assimilar to the original formula as you can. But if you are starting a formula from scratch you have a bitmore leeway in the choice of ingredients.

There are several options for natural emollients. You can use natural oils for example, like coconut oil.Coconut Oil is actually an excellent choice for hair products as it is one of the only oils demonstrated topenetrate into the hair shaft. Other popular choice are Argan Oil, Sunflowerseed Oil, Meadowfoamseed Oil, Jojoba Oil and more. Which oil to use really depends more on your marketing than on the effect of the oil. If you look at the chemical composition of most oils they are basically composed of similar molecules. All of them are made up of mostly fatty acids with a chain length of anywhere from 8 carbons to 22 carbons. The differences are basically the amount of all those fatty acids. They can have a real impact on the way the ingredient feels, looks, and smells but if you formulate your product properly you can pretty much use natural oils interchangeably.

Another option for emollients is butters and fats. These ingredients are semi-solid triglycerides that have a near room temperature melting point. A good example of this is Shea Butter. It can provide a nice feel to the skin and cream. Waxes are another type of emollient used in cosmetic formulating which are suitable for natural formulating. They are solid lipids or hydrogenated oils with high meltingpoints. While they can be occlusive agents they are more commonly used as emollients. Too much butter or wax can make the formula feel too greasy or heavy. A common example is Beeswax.

For emollients, we can finally talk about different options in the natural pyramid. You can get productshere that are from agriculture and could be certified organic, such as seed oils or beeswax. So if you are trying to formulate in the Tier 1 and Tier 2 levels, these ingredients are options. You could also getwild harvested or wild crafted products like tropical butters or plant waxes. Shea butter is a good example here again. You could also get non-organic varieties. The exact raw materials you use or source all depends on your marketing position. From a formulating standpoint these ingredients actually work very similarly.

The ingredients in the last section can be expanded to include all types of natural oils and extracts but


we will confine our conversation to what has been discussed thus far. Figuring out exactly what ingredient you want to use depends much on your marketing position and less on the chemistry.

Cosmetic ColorantsWe move away from moisturizing ingredients and on to the topic of cosmetic colors. These are ingredients which can both provide color to the skin and provide color in the product. This section willcover both pigments and dyes. The difference being pigments provide color and shine, so think of makeup ingredients. Dyes color the product itself, so think of the FD&C colors like Blue #1 or Yellow#5. There are also hair dyes, but those are all synthetic and really aren’t part of the natural product landscape. Some people make natural hair dyes from henna or herbs, but they don’t really work in a manner that makes them a commercially viable product. You can certainly try to color hair with these ingredients but the results are just not consistent enough.

There are two main types of pigments, mineral or organic which we will discuss. It's important to note that colorants are the most highly regulated of all cosmetic ingredients. As you'll see, you are only allowed to use ingredients that are listed on the FDA approved colorant list. This does not matter if theingredients are synthetic or naturally derived. Just because something comes from nature and provides a color doesn't mean you are allowed to use it. We'll examine this more closely next.

As suggested in the US, the FDA regulates pigments. Under CFR 73 and 74 there is a positive list, meaning that if a color ingredient is on this list it is deemed safe to use. In the European Union (EU), colors are regulated by directive 76/786 and that has both an approval, meaning positive list and a banned, meaning negative list. Japan has the ordinance number 30 which is a positive list. The natural standard of Whole Foods bans several colors on their unacceptable list which will will discuss.

There are a number of different types of inorganic pigments. These are ingredients that are mined fromthe Earth or they may be synthetically derived. One of the most important types of inorganic pigments are Iron Oxides. They are available in three main colors including Red, black, and yellow. Using thesethree colors plus Titanium Dioxide color formulators can match any human skin tone. Mixing these colors is an art form in itself, and people can become experts just in this area. Most inorganic pigmentsare allowed according to the Whole Foods standard and they sell several brands of makeup containing these.

Beyond Iron Oxides there are a number of other inorganic pigments available in a wide range of colors.You can achieve most any color by selecting the right colors from this list. Also, for color cosmetics pigment extenders are used to help increase the coverage, spread out the pigment and lighten the color. These are generally transparent or white as is the case for Titanium Dioxide which is a popular pigmentextender. These types of inorganic pigments are allowed also by the COSMOS standards.

While you could make an entire line of products using only inorganic pigments (this is the basis for products that are advertised as mineral makeup) there are a number of drawbacks to using these ingredients. The colors are not as bright, you have fewer choices, and there can be residual contamination in the pigment source.

For more color diversity cosmetic formulators usually use organic pigments. There are several types and depending on the chemical structure of the molecule you can get many different colors. Here is a listing of all the classes of organic pigments available. A common type are Azo compounds which give


a red or yellow color. This slide lists other pigments and the colors that they produce. It's not terribly important that you memorize these since for the most part, natural formulations can not use organic pigments.

If you are following the COSMOS natural standards organic pigments are not allowed unless they are derived from a natural source and not lab produced. The Whole Foods list does not have a specific restriction on organic pigments, but a lot of these compounds are the basis of FD&C colors, which Whole Foods outright bans.

The only inorganic pigment banned by Whole Foods are Ultramarines. Fortunately, you have a plethora of choices to use instead so it shouldn’t be difficult to find replacement colors for your cosmetics. Refer to the previous slide for the choices of inorganic pigments. There are also a number of natural organic pigments available from which to choose.

Here are some allowed natural organic pigments. Beta Carotene which is derived from plants gives a yellow to orange color depending on how much is used. For an orange color you can use Annatto pigment. Beet Root can be used to create a nice red color. To produce a brown color, Caramel is the ingredient of choice. One caution with Caramel is that there are some consumers who believe that this coloring poses a cancer risk. There is not enough evidence to worry the FDA so the ingredient is still allowed but every so often you see stories about how caramel color is a carcinogen. This might be a good reason to avoid using it despite it's natural status.

There are also several others that you can mix to get any number of colors. Keep in mind these natural pigments tend to be brighter and less consistent than other pigments so it might be trickier to formulate with these types than the lab created pigments.

One color that can be found in lipstick is Carmine. This ingredient was mentioned by Whole Foods earlier as being restricted. It is a deep red pigment and has been used for centuries. It is often considered a natural colorant. But is it really? There is some controversy here because carmine is derived from the exoskeletons of beetles. Yes, there are insect shells used to color your lipstick. Manypeople consider this a natural ingredient and have no problem with it but others do have a problem withit. Here is where you'll have to know your own consumer. The point here is to be wary of where your products are derived, even if you think they are natural.

Here is a more complete list of natural colors that are available for use. They are derived from plants and most of them have been around for centuries to color fabrics or other products before we had synthetic colors. Because of their natural sourcing they tend to be very expensive and there are not many producers. It would take an entire section to go through all these in detail so I’ll just leave this list as a reference. Commercial sources for most of these will be in the bonus materials at the end of this class. A Google search on these terms will yield some kind of producer of the material if you are curious about any of these.

While you have plenty of options for choosing natural dyes and pigments, there are a few formulation issues with using them. First, these natural ingredients can be allergens. Some of your consumers will be allergic and need to avoid them. It might surprise you to learn that natural ingredients are often the most allergen inducing substances while synthetic ingredients have that problem to a much lesser extent. Just because something is natural doesn't mean it's safe.


These natural pigments are also difficult to work with because of limited solubility as well as compatibility with common products used in personal care. They will fade easier which will lead to color changing issues as the product sits on the shelf. Many of the products are pH indicators too so they can only be used in a specific pH range or else they will change color. This can be a significant stability issue. If the product pH changes over time, so will the color. The biggest issue is light stability. If your product is exposed to light, there can be a rapid change in the color if not properly protected.

Fragrance The next functional class is fragrance. These ingredients are added to formulations to either change theodor of the formula or to provide a new odor to the surface of skin or hair. They are a blend of aromatic compounds, which can be essential oils, other nature obtained ingredients, or synthetic fragrance compounds. Creating fragrances is actually a specialty and fragrance houses employ perfumers whose job it is to learn all of the odiferous ingredients and blend them together in the right ratios to make fragrances. It requires a bit of art as well as science to master the craft of perfumery andpeople can study 15 to 20 years before becoming full-fledged perfumers.

Synthetic fragrance materials are in the majority of fragrances used in mass produced cosmetics. Thereare a number of benefits to using synthetic ingredients in fragrances. First, skilled perfumers can blendchemicals to create odors that mimic nearly anything found in nature. For example, when you smell a strawberry body wash it's unlikely that any part of a strawberry was used to make it smell that way. Next, synthetic ingredients can be an alternate source for a difficult to obtain natural source, like something that is scarce in nature. Another advantage is that you get a consistent fragrance. You get pretty much the same chemical every time so when you make your product it will smell the same. For natural materials, consistency is often a problem since the end material depends on the growing conditions. Also, synthetic fragrances are more straightforward. People can identify easily with the fragrance profile of these easily. They smell exactly like strawberry, apple, rose, etc. They are also more affordable. And while synthetic ingredients have a number of advantages, almost no natural standard would count them as natural.

Under the COSMOS / Ecocert standard synthetic fragrance ingredients can't be used at all. If you wantto make a natural product that qualifies under this standard you'll have to use natural fragrance materials to create your fragrance. It's worth noting that some natural consumers might say they prefer no fragrance. However, sales data shows differently. Products with a fragrance sell much better than products advertised as fragrance free. Even if your personal natural standard compels you to create fragrance free products, you are still going to want to add some of the natural fragrance ingredients to offset the odor of the other materials in your product. Remember people continue to buy products they enjoy using. If you don't have a fragrance in your product or it has an objectionable odor people won't continue to buy your product no matter how "naturally focused" they are.

Natural fragrance ingredients are sourced from plants and animals, although it’s likely you’ll want to stick with plant sources if you are formulating natural products. Most of these ingredients will vary in odor from batch to batch, so you might find it harder to get a consistent fragrance in your product if you use this type. They are also very expensive compared to synthetic fragrances. You should expect a natural fragrance to cost you about double the price of a similar smelling synthetically based fragrance, if not more. One other issue with natural fragrance ingredients is that sometimes these


products are not produced sustainably because new crops are not planted to replace what is taken. Thisis especially true of products from third world countries. This is something to consider when sourcing your natural fragrances. For the Whole Foods standard, they simply say any fragrance that is synthetic is banned. So what does that leave to work with? These four main classes of products including resinoids, moss, essential oils, and herbal extracts. Let’s look at each category to describe what they are and give some examples of each.

Resinoids are resinous plant matter that is extracted from the plant itself. The raw material that comes directly from a plant is a resin but it typically can’t be used because it is too thick and sticky and doesn't mix well with most of the other components in personal care products. Therefore, the resin is mixed with some solvent like methanol, ethanol, or acetone to produce a resinoid form is used which tends to be less viscous and easier to mix in formulations. Of course, when formulating natural cosmetics you can't use a resinoid that is made using a synthetic solvent. This limits resinoids to those made with naturally produced ethanol or methanol. Some typical examples are myrrh, frankincense, and balsam. There will be a more complete list in the bonus materials.

The next category of natural fragrance material is moss. These are small, flowerless plants that grow on the ground in clumps in damp or shady regions. This category also includes lichen, which grow on parts of other plants. In our examples, Oakmoss and Spanish moss are both of the lichen variety. There aren’t many options here, but Oakmoss is used as a part of a lot of fragrances because it gives offa distinct note called Chypre that is liked by perfumers.

Another natural fragrance ingredient category is essential oil. These ingredients were mentioned earlieras potential emollients and many of them do have multiple application which is why they are useful. Essential oils are obtained by distillation and have a naturally characteristic fragrance of the plant or whatever source it was extracted from. There are countless examples and they will be in the reference materials, but a few common ones are chamomile, orange, lemongrass, and tea tree.

If you look at product labels, you’ll notice the proper way they are labeled are by their Latin name, thenoften times the simplified version in parentheses followed by oil. The example here would be what lavender oil would look like on a label. In the cosmetic industry you are supposed to follow the labeling conventions as laid out by the INCI dictionary. Unless you are following the USDA organic standard you are not supposed to use any ingredient names on the label that are not found in the INCI dictionary.

The last natural fragrance ingredient category is botanical extract. An extract is a substance made by extracting a part of the material by using a solvent. To qualify as a true natural material the solvent hasto be of natural origin so you are limited to water or alcohol extractions. Botanical extracts are less concentrated than essential oils and it often takes a higher concentration to get the fragrance to come through strongly.

Like essential oils, there are numerous examples of these and there is a lot of overlap. Many essential oils and extracts come from the same materials. The first example, rose hips extract can also be obtained as rose hips oil. You can use either depending on your formulation and cost constraints. Typically, extracts are cheaper because they are more dilute. Some other examples are eucalyptus


extract, peppermint extract, and vanilla extract. And when labeling botanical extracts on your ingredient list the same format is used as the essential oils where the Latin name is used followed by the word extract.

To sum up natural fragrances, there are many options and unless you want to blend the natural ingredients yourself you should work with a fragrance house that can provide you a more consistent natural fragrance to use. But you should realize that using a natural fragrance has a number of challenges. It will be harder to create more complicated, diverse odors because there are actually less fragrance choices. Sometimes to get those subtle notes you need to use synthetic fragrances. Naturallyfragranced products tend to only be a few notes, while synthetic fragrances can be a symphony in comparison. Also, natural fragrances will tend to cost more and there can be an inconsistent supply as demand spikes in other industries. You'll often have color issues while stability testing your formulas so you'll need to add antioxidants or other compounds to offset these issues. The natural fragrance materials tend to be much darker so formulating clear to light colored products will sometimes prove difficult.

You may also have odor problems with your natural fragrance since they are less pure than synthetics, and may contain off odors that detract from the natural product you’re trying to highlight. There can also be stability problems. They are more difficult to emulsify and sometimes will drop out of solution if you’re not careful in your formulation. The good news it’s not impossible, and you’re really left withno other choice. This is a good chance to be creative.

Active Ingredients The last class of functional materials is active ingredients. These are any ingredients that are proven to have an effect on cells or fight disease. In the US, these products are classified as OTC Drugs and covered by the FDA monograph. This means that the government has told companies what ingredientsthey can use, at what levels, and the specific claims they can make. When you are producing an OTC you are really limited in the variation of the active ingredients in your formula. You can modify things like the product feel, color, odor, and even the preservative system but you must include the ingredientsdescribed in the monograph.

Unfortunately, when you are trying to create OTC drugs there are very few natural based ingredients that are approved by the FDA.

Here is a listing of all the things that seem like cosmetics but are actually classified as OTC drugs in theUS. Around the world you have more flexibility with some active ingredients but the EU and Japan have similar regulations.

The products that are OTC drugs which are sold alongside cosmetics include Sunscreens, Anti-acne products, Anti-perspirants, Anti-dandruff products, Anti-cavity products, Anti-microbials, hair growth products, and Skin lightening products. If you are going to make or sell any of these products you'll need to review the FDA monograph for the claims you're allowed to make and the ingredients you're allowed to use.

If you are following the COSMOS standard you are limited to the following active ingredients that are approved for natural formulating. For sunscreen products the only allowed active ingredients are inorganic types such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These ingredients are also on the FDA


monograph so you can be in compliance and still create a suitable sunscreen. However, it's important to note that you can't use nanoparticle sized ingredients so the natural sunscreen will tend to leave the skin looking more white than most standard sunscreens.

Anti-acne products are designed to combat acne and there is only one approved active that would be suitable for a natural product, salicylic acid. This can be used in products in a concentration range of 0.5 to 2.0 percent.

If you want to create an anti-perspirant that actually stops the production of sweat, you can use aluminum salts like Aluminum Chloride or Aluminum Chlorohydrate. These are approved by most natural formulation standards and by the FDA.

To make a natural anti-dandruff hair product you are allowed to use Salicylic Acid at a level between 1.8 and 3.0 percent. For anti-cavity products like toothpaste you are allowed to use fluoride compounds. For anti-microbial, you can use certain things but no triclosan.

Finally, there are some OTC drugs that have actives approved by the FDA but there are no acceptalbe natural active ingredients. For example, the drug minoxidil is approved for use for hair growth but this is not a suitably natural ingredient for the COSMOS or other natural standards. I know skin bleaching or skin lightening is an area where there is a lot of interest but the only FDA approved active for this effect is Hydroquinone and this is not approved for use by the natural standards. There are a number ofnon-monographed materials that people have used for skin lightening and some of these are approved for use in natural products despite the fact that many have not been proven to work. When we get to the formulation modules we will cover skin lightening in more detail.

Now let’s look at the Whole Foods list of approved natural ingredients.

According to the Whole Foods list they only allow Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide for sunscreens. They did a pretty good job of banning everything synthetic in this space. They also have some errors intheir list which they will hopefully correct at some point in the future. It should be noted that there are some synthetic sunscreens that they do not explicitly ban such as Dioxybenzone and Sulisobenzone. However, this doesn't mean that you'll be able to use these for formulating and expect to get the products sold in Whole Foods. You should assume that the only sunscreen actives this standard will accept are the mineral sunscreens.

For every other active category you are very limited in what you can make because the Whole Foods list has pretty much banned the approved FDA monograph ingredients. So, there is no natural version of anti-dandruff, anti-acne, or skin lightening products you can legally make and still follow the Whole Foods list. Because of the expense and extra testing required for FDA, this probably isn’t an area where a natural product formulator would start. This is where the larger companies would start to venture because they have the resources to go after this space. This section of functional ingredients was put here just so you could learn what the landscape looks like.

It should be noted that there are a number of natural brands that offer natural versions of many of these OTC drug products. Numerous companies are offering natural sunscreens and they all use Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide as the active ingredient. There are also companies that sell toothpaste but theseare not allowed to contain Fluoride and can not make cavity fighting claims. The natural anti-acne


products you might buy are not allowed to claim they are anti-acne so there are many fewer brands whomake these products. We will delve deeper into specific formulation of products in a later module.

So, that brings us to the end of this module related to natural functional ingredients. If there are requests for more detailed information about certain ingredients let me know and we can include bonus videos that dive deeper into those ingredients. There are a number of ingredient types that we haven't included but those are more related to the aesthetics of the products and we are going to cover them in the next module.

To summarize this module about natural active ingredients you should have learned the different ways that an ingredient can be classified as natural. Also, you learned the different types of functional materials that include cleansing surfactants, conditioning materials, fragrance, and colors among others.Hopefully as you went along you saw what was is commonly used in the industry, and what are some suitable substitutes that would qualify under what most people consider natural standards. In the next module, we will continue to look at cosmetic ingredients and natural alternatives but focus on ingredients that affect the aesthetics & stability of the products plus ingredients added specifically for their marketing benefit.

Thanks again for watching. I'm Perry Romanowski and I will see you in the next video.


Resources

Whole Foods Banned Ingredient List - http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/about-our-products/premium-body-care-standards

Here is a list of cosmetic/OTC products that are governed by an FDA monograph. If you are formulating one of these products, you will have to follow the rules described in the OTC monograph. Only a few of the active ingredients are allowed in natural cosmetic products.

1. Anti-acne productsc– This monograph describes 40 different ingredients that can be used for anti-acne. Rule

was finalized in 1990 although there was some action in 2010 on Benzoyl Peroxide.

2. Toothpaste & anti-cavity productsc– This monograph gives a list of over 20 ingredients that can be used to

fight cavities. The final rule was issued in 1995.

3. Topical anti-fungal– Products that are topically applied to places that need anti-fungal effects (diaper rash,

feet, etc). Final rule was originally passed in 1993.

4. Anti-microbial products– There is a long list of ingredients that can be used for topical anti-microbial

products. For most of the antimicrobial ingredients, the final rule has not yet been issued. It is suggested you

follow the proposed rules when formulating.

5. Antiperspirant– This monograph is for products that are designed to stop sweating. The final monograph was

originally issued in 2003. It lists 26 active ingredients that you can use.

6. Astringents– These are classified as skin

protectants. The final rule was originally issued in 2003.

7. Corn & Callus removers– Definitely a niche product but some cosmetic companies might want to create these

formulations.

8. Dandruff products– If you are planning to create an anti-dandruff shampoo, then you have to follow the rules

of this monograph. The final monograph was issued in 1991 & revised in 1992.

9. Hair growth / hair loss– The final monograph for these types of products was issued in 1989 and includes

nothing that works. However, in 1994, Minoxidil was switched from a prescription drug to an OTC. It remains

the only non-prescription option.

10. Nailbiting products– There is a monograph for products that are designed to stop people from biting their

nails. Who knew? The final monograph was issued in 1993.

11. Psoriasis– These products are designed to treat the condition of psoriasis. The tentative monograph was

issued in 1986 and has yet to be finalized. Only a couple of active ingredients are allowed including Coal Tar and

Salicylic acid.

12. Skin bleaching– Skin lightening products are OTCs in the US. The tentative final monograph was issued in

1982 but it has yet to be finalized. There are only 2 active ingredients acceptable for skin lightening.

13. Sunscreen– It’s been a long time coming but a final monograph on this topic was issued in 2011.

14. Topical analgesic– These products find a wide variety of application and cover products such as those

designed for diaper rash, cold sore treatments, poison ivy treatments, and others.

15. Wart remover– Products that are used to remove warts. The final monograph was issued in 1990 but

updated in 1994. Thirteen active ingredients are listed.


http://www.fda.gov/Drugs/DevelopmentApprovalProcess/DevelopmentResources/Over-the-CounterOTCDrugs/StatusofOTCRulemakings/ucm072033.htm















Module 2 – Functional Natural Cosmetic Ingredients PCF ...

Documents

Transcript of Module 2 – Functional Natural Cosmetic Ingredients PCF ...