Mobius Coils by Loohan

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Mobius Coils http://www.loohan.com/mobius.htm

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Mobius Coils

[Note: This bulletin was first written many years ago, and has sequentialupdates further down. My mobius coil practices have changed slightlyand evolved over time.]

Disclaimer: I am not an expert on mobius coils, merely offering myimpressions from a limited amount of fooling around with them.This page will likely evolve over time.

There are many different types of mobius coils, most of which I knowlittle or nothing about.

Warning! Mobius coils are not necessarily inherently safe. Don Croftsaid that the type of mobius coil he makes (single-knot mobius coil) issafe, provided one either puts a crystal in it or places a boundary wirearound it. Otherwise it can cause undesirable energy phenomena. Hepowers them with a 15hz frequency generator; I do not know whetherthis caveat applies to passive (unpowered) mobius coils as well. I am ofthe impression, though, that orgonite and/or water can be substitutedfor a quartz crystal, as could various other stones. Quartz isnevertheless very well-suited.

From a very interesting article at http://www.insightofnc.com/articles38.htm:

Scalar waves are produced when two electromagnetic waves of thesame frequency are exactly out of phase (opposite to each other) and theamplitudes subtract and cancel or destroy each other. The result is notexactly an annihilation of magnetic fields but a transformation of energyback into a scalar wave. This scalar field has reverted back to a vacuumstate of potentiality.

Scalar waves can be created by wrapping electrical wires around afigure eight in the shape of a m�bius coil. When an electric currentflows through the wires in opposite directions, the opposingelectromagnetic fields from the two wires cancel each other and create ascalar wave.

Just don't ask me to define "scalar". I'm just the wire-bender.

The best tutorial for making a continuous-knot toroidal mobius is foundon Jon Logan's site. Single-knot mobius coils are what Don Croft uses,


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and there used to be a tutorial at cloud-busters.com, but it was notentirely clear.I confess I have as yet never made the latter, though some assert theyare more powerful. Intuitively, I really like the flowing quality of thecontinuous-knot ones, which are also easier to make.

One characteristic of mobius coils is that they are highly responsive toambient energy input: the life-force in one's hands, for example. Forthis reason, I have been wrapping wands with them, generally using asimple spiral wrap around the pipe instead of the doughnut shape. Thedoughnut shape is probably somewhat superior (better output per unitof wire) but less wieldy or practicable in many situations.Al Gray swears by relatively small mobius coils out of thin wire for hisTriniti and other wands, in which he wraps several small coils made outof one section of cable around the pipe. This is similar to what is used inPower Wands. So far, I have not really used this method, exactly.

A few tips I've learned from my unsystematic muddling so far:

It is not necessary to double the wire over twice; once will do nicely(that is, make a 2-strand cable instead of the orthodox 4). Many otherexperimenters have tried this, and I think we are unanimous on thispoint. For me it is a matter of practicality; if 4 is reasonably feasible,considering wire size, space available for it, malleability of the resultantcable, etc., then I will use 4.I have also made ones with 8 strands.

When twisting the wire: a tip from Kininigan: "Avoid resonance - the'standing wave effect' - as that puts excessive twists near the chuck.Try varying the speed and tension. Always run the wire a little slack, butnot enough to 'curl up'."I have inadvertently twisted off (broken) the cable before by using toomuch tension. I was able to unravel the ends and reconnect them. Youwant just enough tension to keep the cable from escaping out in asideways goiter.

For making doughnut-shaped ones, there is an optimal range of lengthof the twisted cable. Meaning, if the twisted cable is too long, it will bequite impracticable to feed it through itself. (But it can still be used towrap spirally around a wand, cylindrical HHG, bottle, etc. More on thisapplication later.)


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Wire type: Magnet wire (which has only a very thin coat of insulation)I have found somewhat difficult to make the doughnut variety with.When using heavy magnet wire, e.g. 14g, it is difficult to bend smoothly.When using thinner wire, e.g. 20g, one should secure the open-endedside, a few inches from the ends, in a clamp or something, and chuck theclosed end in the drill; otherwise the ends wrap so tightly in the drillthat they are near-impossible to elegantly unravel to make the endsavailable for connecting.[Update Aug. 24, '06: See note below about wire types.]

How to power them: The orthodox way is to use a low-voltagefrequency generator such as Don's Terminator zapper or a softwarefrequency generator such as the NCH toner, but I and others havefound these coils to be quite effective used passively (no juice) as longas the circuit is closed i.e. the wire ends connected together. This isvery convenient for environmental gifts and sleek wands.My preference for powering at this time is the earth battery, which inthis case is essentially 2 electrodes of different metals, e.g. galvanizedconduit pipe and copper pipe, stuck into the earth a couple feet deep. Inreasonably moist soil, this usually yields .6 to .8+ volt but with the mostwonderful energy quality. After being accustomed to it, the 15hz zappervibe felt intolerably wimpy and unpleasant to me.There may be voltage fluctuations, even polarity reversals at times,moreso in some locations than others. A cheap multimeter is needed.

But some people who are less lazy than myself (e.g. Bruce Stenulson) cando remarkable things with electrified frequency tuners, and probablyshould.

However, I am speaking here of an earth battery that is a good distancefrom 60hz electrical pollution, on well-orgonized ground. It appears thatin urban areas, the coil may resonate with the toxic artificial frequencythey like to feed us. At least someone reported this impression. Thismight not be that bad, though, for orgone devices buried in the ground;my impression is that it works excellently that way even in a populatedarea. I feel the coil, etc. are effective tools for converting harmfulenergy into benign. But thought I'd mention it just in case.

One of the best things to put in the loop with a mobius coil is one ormore other mobius coils! Whether passive or powered by an earthbattery. I have not tried this with a frequency generator yet, but Jonsaid that he had trouble getting the various coils (hooked up in series) in


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phase that way.It doesn't seem to matter when plugged into the earth battery, though;indeed I highly recommend putting several devices in series on one loopfed by an earth battery. The coils feed off each other.

This coil is powered by such a circuit. Can you feel the vibe?

If you wrap the coil with aluminum foil or aluminum tape, it seems toreally improve the power. Al Gray got us started on that habit. Lately Ihave been getting into wrapping with aluminum, then (a la Reichianorgone accumulator) a layer of cellophane tape or electrical tape. Notethat some brands of electrical tape have a very dull energy, and othersvery good energy; there is some cheap Taiwanese tape around that Iprefer.Then (room providing) more layers, as described more fully below.

Spiral Wrap Mobius Coils:[update 9/2006: I no longer make spiral mobius coils, and don'trecommend them except for wrapping wands that will be held inhand. Otherwise, a short continuous-knot mobius around the objectwill be much better.In fact, a mobius strip (see below) is probably better than a spiralmobius coil even for hand-helds.]

For many applications, a thinner profile is desirable. I like the energy of


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a doughnut-shaped mobius around a crystal, but it is awkward to hold inthe hand, and, worse, difficult to cover with the hand, so as to maximizeits uptake of one's personal chi. One way is to make a series of smallercoils, as is done in a Power Wand or Al's creations. Somehow, though,I've gotten into just doing a spiral wrap with the twisted cable.This is useful for a wand or a long crystal, but also for a cylindricalorgonite creation, e.g. a CB base to be recast. I have also done this ontruncated-cone units, cast in a yoghurt cup or a tumbler.Here's the way I've been doing spiral wrap mobius coils lately:

I double or quadruple over the wire and twist it in adrill. Wrap it around the pipe or whatever in adirection opposite to the twist.Then tape it in place with aluminum tape. Then I placeone or more labyrinth pics (OTB 12) face inward overthe tape (I would have put them under the coil, too,actually) and tack in place with bits of clear tape.Then, as in a traditional orgone accumulator, I coverthe aluminum with a layer of "organic" plastic,specifically, clear cellophane packing tape or electricaltape, then copper foil. (I happen to have some greatcopper foil, very dull and rough on one side, and shiny on the other.)Using foil allows one to turn the shiny side in. The rough side is yin, theshiny side yang; the objective in some cases is to draw chi from theoperator's hands into the pipe or crystal, if that's what you are workingwith. It may not matter for wrapping other devices, depending on whatyou are trying to make it do, though personally, I like the centripetal,implosive kind of energy further discussed in OTB 10. See OTB 9 forinfo on maximizing copper foil.. Many layers.

If making a copper wand, you may wish to bare the wire ends and tapethem around the pipe, so the pipe itself is connected to the wire. Thisalso seems to benefit the energy. And one can always undo the tape atthe end, and temporarily connect the coil to an earth battery orwhatever if one desires.

The longest mobius coil I have made was with 500' of 14g plastic-insulated wire, doubled over, i.e. probably close to 200' of cable afterthe shrinkage resulting from doubling and twisting.) This was spirally-wrapped one layer thick, taped in place with aluminum tape, and the wrapcontinued back over the tape the other way. Repeated 3 or 4 times. Wasit worth the hassle? Not until I then did my "eclectic layering" using


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copper foil, tape, and labyrinths (see OTBs 9 & 12) which amped it up bigtime.

In February, 2004, Kininigin came out with the scarab coil. Here's atutorial. This is a fairly intense little passive coil. Some people makesmaller ones and wear them as rings, and credit them with amazingpowers. Some put them on the ends of CB pipes for an extra boost.

Personally, I much prefer the quality of the energy if I twist the wiresCW instead of CCW, and it feels stronger to me, too. Not beingparticularly psychic, I don't know whether they lose their reputedpower against evil critters this way, though. I'm hoping someone will tryit and offer feedback someday.Update July, 2006: With the advantage of greater sensitivity, I nowfeel that yes, it is different, but I like it. I tried "sending" a standardscarab coil into a demon, and found it weakened him markedly. Not sowith the variant I'd made with a reversed twist.

Kininigan suggests applying these constructiontechniques to mobius coils, too. I have donethis with some small mobius coils so far, andfind it much easier to make them this way (acaduceus wind instead of the toroidal mobiuswrap I was using) plus they are stronger. Evenwith the circuits broken as in the onesdepicted here. Especially when I add the littlepassive outer spiral wraps you see here. I

used 2 pieces of copper wire, 6.66" long, one going CW and one goingCCW for these latter. Selenite is in the middle.

The coils, like the scarab coils proper, have a direction. If wound leftover right, as Kin suggests results in a coil in which the energy goesmainly out the end away from where the wire ends end up. Also thisstriated selenite has a definite direction, which I put agreeing with thecoils here.

I have also used this caduceus-style mobius technique to make mobiuscoils around 1-gallon jugs to make an item as described in OTB 11. Usedabout 30' of 18g on each one. Marked the centers of the twistedsection, excluding the ends. Wrapped the wires directly on the bottle,which left them rather snug. I happen to have a bunch of very smallplastic ty-bands, and I slipped some of those under the coils to cinch


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them in place. Seems to work quite well. Due to my impressions with thescarab coils, I only use a CW twist (forward mode with the drill).

Update May, 2005: A while back Archie shared with me a discoveryhe'd made: a mobius coil can be passively driven with a magnet. Put onelead on the north end and one lead on the south. You need to be able todiscern WHICH lead goes on which end, as one will work a lot betterthan the other.Also, even a passive mobius alone will have a + side and a minus side. Youwant to make sure the + side faces toward the business end of thecrystal.Anyway, this magnet thing feels pretty impressive, if strong magnetsare used. I just did this with a stack of neodymium magnets. Also tapeda piece of hematite and a bismuth pellet to the mags for synergy. Thisworks well in conjunction with a potentiometer tuner arrangement.Makes it much more powerful, but still needs no electrical input.

Update August 2006: Lately I have become much better at dowsing,even dowsing devices before I make them. And I have made a few moremobes. Here are some points I would now emphasize:

The twist should always be done with the drill in reverse mode.Though the other way is powerful, too, to me the reverse mode makes acoil that has a quality of resolving discordancy, whereas the forwardmode makes a more discordant field that is slightly uncomfortable to bearound. In a regular mobe. In the scarab coil, the forward twist actuallyfeels mellower, but is not effective against demons like the reversetwist. So either coil type, you want to go reverse mode.Also, when making a (non-scarab) mobius, you want to wrap the cablewith the same "twist" direction; it should go like the threads of a screw.I have not made any new scarab-type coils lately. I doubt they would bebetter, and they certainly won't be easier to make, than my shortmobes.

Longer is not better. I don't care what your spam basket says. It wassheer stupidity of me to make mobes hundreds of feet long. I could havegotten better results much more cheaply and easily with a short coil ofdowsed length. And saved a lot of space, too. Al was right.Lately I am favoring (for 22g phone wire doubled over to make 4-strandcable) lengths of 9'3.5" and 27' 5". That's length of the single strandbefore folding, not counting some extra length needed for the 2 leads.The larger length is not superior except where a longer coil is required


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to physically encircle a larger object.Different lengths would apply for different gauge wire.

The best thing to drive them is a low-voltage frequency driver withmore than one freq going into different coils. Perhaps a stereo.

Hooking up multitudes of mobes on a single circuit is excellent. Inseries is far better than in parallel.

I have a screw-hook inside a cupboard. When I want to make a mobe, Iopen the cupboard, use the hook to loop the wire over to draw itstraight, double it over and do it again. Then I put a bit of electricaltape around the end that has the 2 leads and one loop. This I clamp ontoa solid object, and chuck the other end in the drill.

I had been taping the other end, too,but someone wrote me with a betteridea: chuck a screw-hook into the drill,and use that to twist the end with the 2loops.Don't go too fast, and vary the speed.Use just enough tension to keep thewire from knotting up in a sideways

lump.

Now for something truly radical and easy-to-do:Mobius Strips.

Some time back, Kneweyes put a remarkably niceTrinity Wand right by the Skull and Bones tomb.This has caused them considerable distress.I checked out this wand recently when Ineutralized their countermeasures to it. I wasamazed at how good its energy was. I askedKneweyes for the secret. She did a few thingsdifferently, but mainly it was the mobius stripthat dowsed as the big factor.

Not wanting to make a coil, she had the idea ofwrapping aluminum tape in a mobius strip aroundthe 3 pipes.Just leave a bit of end sticking out when you


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start the wrap, and when you get to the end, turn it over and tape the 2sticky sides together. Flatten in place. [correction: see Sept. 2006update below]

On the last thing I made, I did the same thing around one of the stonesin it, using narrow, silver-plated copper tape. For a number of reasons,that unit came out as the best orgone device I've made yet, and one bigfactor is this strip. I put a mobius coil around the strip, too (this tape istoo narrow to wrap over a coil with).

I recommend this highly, and expect to be incorporating more suchthings in future devices.

How many turns should one go around before securing the ends? I dowsethat the best number is 4, with 2 being a very close second. Three is notas good.

A friend sent me this pic, asking ifthat is correct.

Yes, that's basically it. Though Iwould call that 3 turns, and getthat 1 more would be good. Alsothere is a bit too much slack formy taste, but this is just a demo

photo to show what's going on.

This is how I have done it. This is 4wraps of copper tape on a nice littlecylinder that I will re-cast in a largermold next time I pour epoxy.

As you can see, I started at thebottom, leaving a "tail".I am not sure it matters much whetheryou go CW or CCW. I had the vague feeling that CW ascending might beslightly better on this unit.

Wire types: Again, Al was way ahead of me on this. I now dowse thatthe best wire is 24awg, whether solid or stranded, whether for activeor passive use. Followed closely by 22g.This is good to know, because I have mainly found 22g sold as phone


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cable with a second sheath of insulation around 4 or more separateinsulated strands. It is good stuff, and very inexpensive compared tomost wire, but it's a real hassle to remove the outer sheath withoutscraping off some of the insulation around the separate wires inside.Whereas, 24awg is often sold in spools of one insulated wire.Beware, a lot of this stuff has flouride compounds like PTFE (Teflon). Itshould be labeled as such, because this is a more expensive feature. Itmay be called "shielded" or military grade or something like that.Artificial flouride compounds have a bad vibe, and this type of wire isnot recommended for energy devices!Some wires are tinned or silver-coated. The additional metal coat isdesirableI found some here. 5 sets make almost 1000' of wire, and with shippingcosts about what the last spool I bid on at eBay sold for with shipping.The eBay spool was 1000' of tinned cu. The problem is that most ofwhat comes in the kits I got is in lengths of of 5 meters. Fortunately,this works out, as the best 24g lengths I dowse as 6'5.5" and and 9'4"to 9'5", excluding leads. So one can get one of each out of every littleroll, and have just a few inches left over for splicing onto sturdier leadwires.

Incidentally, when making any splices that will be buried under resin,make sure the connection is real tight. Finding that your masterpiecelacks continuity once cured is most disheartening. Either solder it, ortwist very tightly and "waterproof" the junction with silicone seal ortape or something. What presumably happens is that hot resin likes toseep into tight spaces like between wires, placing an insulative coatwhere you don't want it.I will be trying butt splices in my next pour. You can get a couple dozenof these at any hardware store for a few bucks. You will also need acrimping tool, such as is on most wire strippers. Crimp snugly. I will besealing the ends of the splice tubes with dabs of silicone anyway,because I hate to gamble.Here is a conversion table into mm wire sizes. I do not know what iscommonly sold in the way of European sizes around the range of22-24awg, but I get that .54mm would be pretty ideal.

Update September, 2006: In the pic,the splices are on the right. On the leftare wire connectors that unplug. Theseare useful for hooking up several coils inseries. The wire-strippers have


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crimping sections near the tip. However,for me these don't crimp hard enough.The wires come loose under stress,

unless I crimp with a sterner instrument.

Note how the ends of the jaws onthese particular vise-grips applypressure in the right spot.[Note Jan/'07: My problem was justthat the strippers I had were crummy.My new pair crimps better.]

Although the smallest size I found forsuch hardware is for 22g and up, theywill work for 24g.

Correction about mobius strips: What Kneweyes did, and what worksbest, is to put the two bare sides of the tape ends together forconductivity, and tape them in place with duct tape. This is significantlysuperior to using the tape glue, because it is an insulator. Unless you areusing specialized metal tape with conductive glue. But unless you aredoing a single loop, or otherwise not having the loops touch, you don'twant conductive glue, either, because you do want insulation between thelayers. I think a strip made with bare metal against bare metal will work,but not nearly as well.This means also that one should beware of shorting out the strip byfolding bare sections of ends over the bare wrap; one can put tape overthe section which will be under the bare end.

Also recently I found that silk is superior to metal for mobius strips.Narrow silk ribbon is available on eBay, not expensive. Again, it isprobably best to have the ends touching without glue.

The ribbon is very narrow, about 1/8", and awkward to work with unlessyou have good eyes and nimble fingers. I just position the ends and tapeinto place

Update December, 2006: I have recently converted all my units thatwere running on earth battery power to magnet drive, that is, usingArchie's ingenious magnet trick as described above in the May, 2005update. Actually, it is not necessary to use a stack of strong magnets. Ijust used a single modest bar magnet for each unit. The important thing


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is to get the orientation right. In fact, any time you build an orgonedevice, there is always an optimum position for any component. It willstill work OK if you do it any old way, but it will work a lot better if youposition stuff exactly where it is optimum.

My impression at this time is that magnets work just as well, possiblybetter, than earth batteries. And importantly, there is no maintenance,no messy wires running along the ground to trip over.Actually, speaking of maintenance, if you have mobius devices sitting forlengths of time, it is good to occasionally check continuity, no matterwhat you have driving the coils. Sometimes the connections might getslightly oxidized or something, breaking the circuit. Simply unpluggingand replugging wires usually fixes this.[Note Jan/'07: My main problem here may have been that I didn't fullyseat the connectors. When I tried this, I found that a coupleconnections wouldn't seat, because the male prong was not even insidethe metal part in the female end.]Since there is a big difference in the energy of an energized coil and adisconnected one, it is particularly easy for me to dowse this remotely.But if you are not able to do this, it is wise to occasionally "refresh" allconnections.

Another idea that I have used to advantage is to cast the coil-drivingmagnet right into the unit when you build it. Just make sure allconnections are secure first, with connections taped or otherwiseprotected from resin seeping in during construction. And don't let theresin overheat.

Update January 16, 2007: I haven'tbuilt any more devices lately, but afriend sent this pic and asked if therewas a difference in energy betweenthese 2 versions. Yes, the one on theleft feels significantly better to me.Whether this always holds true in all

applications, I'm not sure. When I make stuff, I normally dowseeverything I have a choice on. If one is using a mold of 4.8" diameter,one does not usually have the option of making it 4.7" or 5" so I go withthe 4.8", but whenever I do have an easy choice between one or moreways to do something, I usually try to dowse what's best in thatparticular project. When I placed the mobius strips in my devices, Idowsed the number of turns (though what is practical may have a


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bearing on whether I choose 2 or 4 turns, for example). I dowsedwhether the turns should be CW or CCW ascending.

But it does seem to me that, at least ona simple strip like the one above, theleft one is superior. On this one, onecan discern (with some slightdifficulty,) that I made it CWascending on the wrap, but with the endfolded in the same manner as the rightside in the pic he sent. It probably didnot occur to me to check which was was best, but now I get that itwould have been better the other way.

Update June, 2008: Four strands or two? More recently I have almostalways used 2. Not because 2 is energetically superior, per se. I think 2or 4 makes no difference, except in terms of logistical practicalities.Most of the mobes I make these days are very short in terms of wireused. At least in proportion to the overall coil diameter.


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As you can see here, the blue coil only makes about 2.3 loops around.And has 2 strands to the cable. If it had 4, the same length of wirewould be approximately half as long, and thus would only go around once.I get that 2 full loops is all that is usually necessary. Less than 2 wouldnot give full function.I always dowse the length of the wire these days, for a particularapplication. Often there are several lengths in different ranges that aresuitable. So I usually try to pick the length that is shortest, as long as itwill also make at least 2 full loops.The items I have made with such coils turn out very intense (probably inpart because I don't waste internal space with useless excess wire). Andanother advantage of short mobes is that it is real easy to re-size themto fit your application. Try adusting the diameter on a mobe made with30' of wire, and you'll see how challenging and time-consuming that canget.As far as the figure-8 "infinity" mobes depicted elsewhere on this site,I have only made them with 2-strand as well. I see no advantage therefor more strands. However, I often do more than 2 figure-8s.

So ordinarily Ihave absolutely noreason to make a4-strand cable.Although, on rareoccasions, it maydowse as betterfor a particularapplication, asmight a cable thatgoes around theloop several times.Another exceptionis what I term aninterface coil.This is a 4-strandcoil that actuallyconsists of 2 separate circuits. This creates an energetically-intimateinterface between 2 circuits that is not electrically conductive. So onecould, for example, have a non-electric circuit using the yellow mobe,thus married to the red mobe that has a 555-timer device pumping juicethrough it.Of course I'm a wild man who, in this instance, put a separate passive


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"electronic" circuit (OTB 30) on each mobe which is beyond most people.

Loohan


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Mobius Coils by Loohan

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