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When redesigning the all–new 2010RX, we were thinking of a certainperson living in Los Angeles whoenjoys listening to public radio in thecar and who goes by the name ofRoger YU.

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Experience la dolce vita in northern Italy; from hiking trails to long stretches of beach, Costa Rica caters to everyone.

Tips and trends to get you looking gorgeous this summer; feel refreshed with the perfect iced coffee from your own kitchen.

How to prepare for a pandemic; Mad Money host Jim Cramer talks stocks, the recession and Jon Stewart.

The best vegetarian cooking just in time for your growing garden; learn to make the most of the entire fi sh.

Global opportunities and risks for investors; cost-cutting gadgets; explaining the price of your smartphone.


The RX offers a voice–commandsystem that has the capability tounderstand exactly how you speak,even if you occasionally end yoursentences with “dude.”

Italy in Bloom��

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T WAS WITH A TOUCH OF ENVY THAT I VISITED La Mortola, the 49-acre gardens just three

miles west of Ventimiglia on the French-

Italian border, my first stop while touring

some of the region’s most beautiful public

gardens. Imagine having the time, the ener-

gy, the means, and the taste to design what is a

horticultural paradise spilling right down to the

Mediterranean. Thomas Hanbury, a wealthy Eng-

lishman who made his money in China trading in

silk, tea, and cotton, created this place with the

help of his botanist brother Daniel in 1867, and it’s

now known as both La Mortola and the Hanbury

Botanical Gardens.

Hanbury first saw the crumbling Palazzo Orengo

on holiday; it was located on a perfect site and offered

an ideal climate. While this was an important attrac-

tion for him, I am convinced it was the incredible views

of the sea and mountains that clinched the deal and led

him to buy the stunning pink palazzo and surrounding

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TRAVEL+LEISURE


land for his dream garden. Like his fellow Brit, the Scotsman

Neil McEarchern, who planted the botanical gardens at

Villa Taranto, on Lake Maggiore 87 years later, Hanbury

had a vision. He wanted a landscaped garden that would

bring together native flora with as many exotic plants as he

could find. He collected a variety of roses, wisteria, and sal-

via. Other beautiful features are the cycads and succulents,

a cypress walk that stretches the entire width of the garden,

and enormous oaks and pines. Sculptures from various

periods surprise you in unexpected corners, adding immea-

surably to the enchantment of the garden.

After Hanbury’s death, his daughter-in-law Lady

Hanbury took an equally strong interest in preserving the

garden and eventually, in 1960, left it to the Italian gov-

ernment. Since 1986 it has been under the care of the

University of Genoa. One strongly feels the presence of »

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Thomas Hanbury throughout, as well as his love and

curiosity for the natural world. For a few hours I was

trans ported into a simpler 19th-century life, where stroll-

ing in a beautiful garden was an understandable passion.

My friend Charlotte Temple and I could have reached

our next destination, Bellagio, in an efficient 21st-century

way, following the strong commands of the GPS and taking

the highway from Genoa north to Como. But we didn’t. In-

stead, we were thrilled by what we discovered serendipitously.

The serpentine state road follows extraordinarily beautiful

cascading streams in the National Park of the Maritime

Alps, which dominates the northwest corner of Piedmont.

By taking the longer route—which dipped briefly back into

France—we were introduced to Limone Piemonte, a


TRAVEL+LEISURE

delightful little town. The Col de Tenda pass separates the

Maritime Alps from the Ligurian Alps not far from Cuneo,

where we stopped for lunch at the Osteria della Chiocciola

to enjoy the zuppa di verdure and the house-made ravioli.

BELLAGIO HAS BEEN A DESTINATION FOR GARDEN LOVERS SINCE the time of Pliny. From the lakeside Piazza Mazzini, we

arranged to have a water taxi take us to the three gardens

we particularly wanted to see.

Arriving at the villas by water was a special treat, as that

is the way visitors traveled in centuries past, and it is by far

the most dramatic. The owners and drivers of Bellagio

Water Taxis, Luca Venini and his Australian wife, Jennine,

ferried us to the three pearls of Lake Como: Villa Melzi,

Villa del Balbianello, and Villa Carlotta, all in one after-

noon. Luca, a native of Bellagio, filled us in on the local

history and the current gossip, and showed us places on the

lake that were of particular interest to nature lovers.

Our guide at the Villa Melzi was the charming Daniela

Vaninetti. She was there punctually to meet us, complete with

wellies, tattoos, and a diamond-studded smile. She showed us

enormous 19th-century redwoods, white pines, red oaks, and

water-craving swamp cypresses from North America.

In May the garden is aglow with azaleas and rhododen-

drons. A Moorish pavilion placed right at the water’s edge,

a well-manicured allée of pollarded sycamore trees, and a

delightful Japanese water garden are among the attractions.

Unlike Villa Melzi, the complex of Balbianello, the

next place we visited, is owned and maintained by the

Fondo Ambiente Italiano—the Italian National Trust.

The peninsula on which we find the estate juts dramati-

cally into Lake Como and has views of three different

shores. In addition to the gardens, a magnificent 18th-

century loggia, which has columns delicately laced with

well-tended garlands of ficus, is open to the public. Origi-

nally commissioned by Cardinal Angelo Maria Durini at

the end of the 18th century, the gardens of Balbianello

have been modified by subsequent owners and reflect

French, English, and Italian influences—all quite typical

of the pleasure gardens of this period.

Built around 1690, Villa Carlotta was once known as

the Villa Clerici, but was renamed in 1843 for Princess

Carlotta of the Netherlands when she received the home

as a wedding present.

Before Carlotta and her husband, Prince George of

Saxe-Meiningen, added to the garden, previous owner

Gian Battista Sommariva left his mark. He’d bought the

estate in the early 1800’s and embellished it extensively,

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adding statuary, a stone tower , and thousands of plants to

the already extensive collection of shrubs and trees, per-

haps in competition with his political rival Francesco

Melzi d’Eril, the owner of Villa Melzi, across the lake.

In the summer months, one is drawn to the woodland dell

dotted with blue hydrangeas behind the villa that Carlotta

and her husband expanded . Also, you can stroll, as guests

once must have done, in what appears to be a stunning rain

forest complete with numerous collections of exotica—ferns,

giant magnolias, bananas, and orchids— that had become a

passion among horticulturists of the period.

We ate dinner at the Villa d’Este hotel, where we had

rombo (turbot), splendidly prepared and so fresh that the

delicate fl avor of the fi sh came through as it often doesn’t.

What a pleasure to be in this restaurant, overlooking the

impeccably manicured formal gardens of the hotel.

THE NEXT DAY WE LEFT COMO AND DROVE TO LAKE

Maggiore to see the Borromean Islands, and in particular

the Isola Bella, perhaps the fi nest example of 17th-century

Italian Baroque garden art. When seen from the town of

Stresa, the island looks like a giant ship: the Borromean

Palace at the stern balancing the 10-terraced garden at the

bow of the island.

Milanese architect Giovanni Angelo Crivelli is credited

with the original design of the palace and the grounds

that were shaped into a step pyramid, decorated with

GUIDE TO NORTHERN ITALIAN GARDENS

ITALY

Mediterrane

an

Sea

Gulf ofGenoa

LOMBARDYTurin

Genoa

Cuneo

Bellagio

N

,-��./0�1�20

Col de Tenda Pass

Hanbury BotanicalGardens

Villa DurazzoPallavicini

PIEDMONT

VillaMelzi

Villa Carlotta

LakeMaggiore

LakeComo

Milan

Villa delBalbianello

S20

A4

A26

A9

Ligurian Alps

Maritime Alps LimonePiemonte

Ventimiglia

BorromeanPalace

Como

�� See a list of our favorites around the

world at travelandleisure.com.

turf, pebbles, shells, and ornate mosaics . One reaches the

gardens by passing through the palace and six lavishly

decorated grottoes.

Punctuated by immense cone-shaped evergreens at each

corner, the parterres in the Garden of Love prepare the

guests for the extravaganza of the water theater that towers

over the island garden. The theater is richly decorated with

niches, fountains, and hanging plants.

A spectacular collection of sculpture adds to the de-

light of the place, symbolizing the rivers and lakes of Italy,

the four seasons, and the Borrome family’s power. Statues

are dramatically silhouetted against the sky and the elab-

orate Italianate balustrades and fountains.

WE ENDED THE TRIP AT THE PALAZZO VILLA DURAZZO

Pallavicini, just outside Genoa in the suburb of Pegli. The

park has beautiful trees and shrubs, in particular the ca-

mellias, which date back to the garden’s inception in 1840 .

Soon after, set designer Michele Canzio whimsically creat-

ed for his patron Alessandro Ignazio Pallavicini a “drama

in three acts,” in which the garden visitor, the “hero,”

treks through the Triumphal Arch, passes through “hell,”

represented by the dark grotto, and ends at “Paradise

Regained,” in the brilliant sunshine. And indeed it was. �

Mary Tonetti Dorra writes for the New York Times, Gourmet,

and Elle Decor.

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FOOD & WINE

�� %��active: 30 min; total: 1 hr 20 min

4 s e r v i n g s

the good news The silky carrot puree

mixed with the cheddar here is a terrific

source of vitamin A and helps reduce the

amount of fat in the recipe.

¾ pound carrots, peeled and

thinly sliced

Zest and juice of 1 navel orange,

zest removed in strips with a

vegetable peeler

Salt

3 cups penne rigate (9 ounces)

3 ounces sharp cheddar cheese,

shredded (1» cups)

1 tablespoon chopped tarragon

Freshly ground white pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. In a medium

saucepan, combine the carrots with the

zest and juice and ¼ cup of water. Season

with salt and bring to a boil. Cover and sim-

mer over moderate heat until the carrots

are very soft, about 30 minutes. Discard

the zest. Transfer the carrots and any liquid

to a blender and puree until very smooth.

2. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan of boil-

ing salted water, cook the pasta until al

dente. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of

the cooking water.

3. Return the pasta to the pot. Add the

reserved water and the carrot puree and

cook over moderate heat, stirring fre-

quently, until the the pasta is coated with

a thickened sauce, about 5 minutes. Stir

in three-fourths of the cheese and cook,

stirring, until very creamy, 2 to 3 minutes

longer. Stir in the tarragon and season

with salt and white pepper.

4. Transfer the pasta to a medium baking

dish and top with the remaining cheese.

Bake until the cheese is melted and lightly

browned, about 20 minutes. Let stand for

5 minutes before serving.

one serving 370 cal, 8 gm fat, 4.5 gm

sat fat, 58 gm carb, 4 gm fiber.

wine Round, silky Chardonnay: 2007 C.

Donatiello Russian River Valley.

��&��

active: 25 min; total: 45 min

4 s e r v i n g s

the good news Chef Jeremy Fox com-

bines two antioxidant-packed vegetables—

broccoli and red peppers—in this hearty,

Spanish-inspired salad studded with pine

nuts and golden raisins.

4 red bell peppers

1 tablespoon pine nuts

1 tablespoon golden raisins

2 teaspoons sherry vinegar

1 tablespoon finely shredded

mint leaves

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 cups broccoli florets in ¾-inch

pieces (from 1 bunch)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1. Preheat the oven to 450°. Arrange the

bell peppers on a baking sheet and roast,

turning once, until charred in spots and

tender, about 25 minutes. Transfer the

peppers to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap

and let cool slightly.

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2. Meanwhile, spread the pine nuts on a

pie plate and toast just until golden, about

2 minutes. In a microwave-safe bowl, com-

bine the raisins with 1 teaspoon of the

vinegar and 2 tablespoons of water and

microwave on high power for 30 seconds,

just until the raisins are plump. Let cool,

then drain the raisins.

3. Peel, seed and core the peppers, then

cut into thin strips. Return the peppers to

the bowl, stir in the mint and season with

salt and pepper.

4. In a saucepan fitted with a steamer bas-

ket, bring 1 inch of water to a boil. Add the

broccoli, cover and steam until crisp-tender,

about 4 minutes; transfer to a bowl. Add

the olive oil and the remaining 1 teaspoon

of vinegar and toss. Stir in the raisins and

nuts and season with salt and pepper.

5. Spread the peppers on a platter and top

with the broccoli salad; serve right away.

serve with Crusty bread.

one serving 95 cal, 5 gm fat, 0.7 gm sat

fat, 11 gm carb, 3.6 gm fiber.

#��,��"��!� ��"��$�� active: 25 min; total: 1 hr 25 min

4 s e r v i n g s

the good news Eating quinoa is a great

way for vegetarians to get protein. Jeremy

tosses nutty-tasting quinoa with crunchy

shaved vegetables for a refreshing salad

loaded with vitamins and minerals.

8 large red radishes or

1 large watermelon radish

1 small black radish

1 medium carrot, peeled

1 medium fennel bulb, cored

1 cup quinoa, preferably red, rinsed

2½ cups water

Finely grated zest of 2 lemons

Juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Using a mandoline, thinly slice the

radishes, carrot and fennel bulb. Transfer

to a large bowl of ice water and refrigerate

for about 1 hour, until crisp.

2. Meanwhile, in a saucepan, bring the qui-

noa and water to a boil. Cover and cook over

low heat until the water is absorbed and the

quinoa is tender, 20 minutes. Let cool.

3. Drain and dry the vegetables. In a bowl,

combine the lemon zest and juice with the

oil. Add the quinoa and toss; season with

salt and pepper. Serve the quinoa in bowls,

topped with the vegetables.

one serving 250 cal, 10 gm fat, 1 gm sat

fat, 37 gm carb, 5 gm fiber.

wine Bright, citrus-packed Sauvignon

Blanc: 2008 Palliser Estate.

-��!� ��%�� active: 25 min; total: 2 hr 25 min

4 s e r v i n g s

the good news This delicate broth is full

of vitamin C, thanks to the pea pods Jeremy

simmers. (Snow peas are just as delicious

and easier to find.) He tops the consommé

with shards of white chocolate because he

likes the way it brings out the peas’ sweet-

ness while adding only a little fat. ph

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FOOD & WINEFOOD & WINE

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strawberries with buttermilk ice and balsamic vinegar

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2 pounds English peas in the pod,

peas shelled and pods reserved,

or 1 pound snow peas plus one

9-ounce box frozen peas, thawed

1 garlic clove, smashed

1 medium shallot, thinly sliced

¬ cup small mint leaves

1 quart water

2 teaspoons Champagne vinegar

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Salt

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons roasted macadamia

nuts, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped

white chocolate

½ cup pea shoots

1. In a 12-inch piece of cheesecloth, wrap

the pea pods or snow peas with the garlic,

shallot and 1 tablespoon of the mint leaves

into a flat bundle; tie with kitchen twine.

In a large saucepan, cover the bundle with

the water and bring to a simmer. Cover

and cook over very low heat for 2 hours.

2. Strain the consommé into a bowl, press-

ing on the bundle. Return the consommé

to the saucepan. Add the peas, vinegar and

lemon juice and season with salt. Cover and

reheat gently. Ladle the consommé into

bowls and drizzle with the olive oil. Garnish

with the nuts, white chocolate, pea shoots

and the remaining mint leaves; serve.

one serving 182 cal, 10 gm fat, 2.6 gm

sat fat, 19 gm carb, 5 gm fiber.

" ��!��!� �� .��total: 20 min plus 3 hr freezing

4 s e r v i n g s

the good news Ubuntu pastry chef

Deanie Fox makes this fluffy granita with

buttermilk, which is low in fat, high in cal-

cium and easy to digest. She spoons the

creamy, tangy ice over lightly sweetened

strawberries, a vitamin C–loaded fruit.

3½ tablespoons sugar

1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 cup low-fat buttermilk

1 pint strawberries, quartered

½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon aged balsamic vinegar

4 tiny tarragon sprigs

1. In a bowl, whisk 1½ tablespoons of the

sugar with ½ tablespoon of the lemon juice

until the sugar is dissolved. Whisk in the

buttermilk and pour into a shallow baking

dish; freeze until firm, whisking the mixture

every 30 minutes, about 3 hours.

2. In a bowl, toss the strawberries with the

remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar and 1 table-

spoon of lemon juice. Add the lemon zest

and vinegar; let stand for 30 minutes. Spoon

the berries and any juices into glasses.

Using a fork, scrape the buttermilk ice into

fluffy crystals and spoon over the strawber-

ries. Garnish with the tarragon and serve.

one serving 97 cal, 1.5 gm fat, 0.8 gm

sat fat, 20 gm carb, 2.2 gm fiber.

��)��!� ��

total: 15 min

4 s e r v i n g s

the good news The yogurt in this frothy

drink may help boost the immune system.

Deanie adds antioxidant-rich blackberries,

which are fun to fish out of the glass.

1 pint blackberries

¼ cup sugar

2 small seedless cucumbers—

peeled, seeded and chopped

1 cup plain nonfat yogurt

1 cup ice cubes

2 tablespoons lime juice

6 mint leaves

Pinch of salt

In a bowl, lightly crush the blackberries

with 1 tablespoon of the sugar. In a blender,

combine the cucumbers, yogurt, ice, lime

juice, mint leaves, salt and the remaining

3 tablespoons of sugar and blend. Spoon

the berries and their juice into glasses. Pour

the frappé on top and serve right away.

one serving 97 cal, 0.5 gm fat, 0 gm sat

fat, 23 gm carb, 4.3 gm fiber. /Ubuntu Restaurant and Yoga Studio, 1140

Main St., Napa; 707-251-5656.

FOOD & WINE

� ��

test kitchen

��

�� ¼ cup chopped cilantro

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

2 scallions, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil

1 tablespoon canola oil

%�� ¼ cup finely chopped parsley

2 tablespoons salted capers,

rinsed and finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper


�� 2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, minced

1 serrano chile, seeded and minced

1 teaspoon chopped thyme

„ teaspoon ground allspice


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Choose one of the flavor combinations above and chop all of the

ingredients except the oil together with a large pinch of salt. Trans-

fer the paste to a small bowl and stir in the oil. Make 5 parallel

3-inch-long slashes on each side of the snapper, slicing almost

through to the bone. Lightly season the fish with salt and fill the

slashes with the paste. Rub the fish all over with canola oil.

0�� Preheat the oven to 425°. Transfer

the fish to a heavy rimmed baking sheet

so it stands upright. To keep the fish stable,

splay the belly flaps and set a crumpled

foil ball under the tail. Roast the fish for

30 minutes, until the flesh just flakes.

Transfer the fish to a platter. Using 2 forks,

lift the fillets off the bones and serve.

" ��Preheat the oven to 425°. Set the

fish on a sheet of heavy-duty foil and set

another sheet on top; fold up 3 of the sides.

Add 1 tablespoon of water to the packet

and seal completely. Transfer the fish to a

rimmed baking sheet and steam in the oven

for 30 minutes, until the flesh just flakes.

Lift the fillets off the bones and serve.

1��Light a grill and oil a grill basket

that’s large enough to hold the fish. Set

the fish in the basket and grill over moder-

ate heat, turning once, until the flesh just

flakes with a fork, about 20 minutes. Care-

fully remove the fish from the basket and

transfer to a platter. Using 2 forks, lift the

fillets off the bones and serve.

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caribbean-style red snapper

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FOOD & WINE

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22 MONEY May 2009

THE BREAKDOWNHardware and packaging The Storm’s most expen-sive component is a $36 clickable touchscreen that replaces the keyboard. It also contains a $35 chip that allows the phone to function outside the U.S.

Factory costs Includes assembly, quality testing, fixing of defective phones returned under warranty, and shipping.

Research and development, intellectual property This includes royalties RIM pays for technologies it hasn’t developed itself, such as wireless 3G.

Research in Motion’s take Depending on RIM’s deal with Verizon Wireless, the amount it makes per phone may be higher. To get the sole rights to sell a hot phone like the Storm, carriers often pay an exclusivity fee. In other cases, the device maker might get a cut of each user’s contract.

Marketing This represents RIM’s share of the tab. Verizon Wireless also spends money to hype the phones.

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the cost of a blackberry storm is hardly set in stone. There’s the $499 retail price, which you probably won’t pay (unless you break the phone and don’t have insur-ance). Verizon Wireless, which sells you the phone along with your voice and data service, buys the device from maker Research in Motion for around $400. You plunk down half of that at the store, and Verizon Wireless recoups its loss from the monthly plan you sign up for (typically $80 a month). Here’s an estimate of how that $400 price breaks down. —ELLEN FLORIAN KRATZ

THE HOT NEW SMARTPHONE

Where the Money Goes

SOURCE: Numbers are estimates compiled from MONEY research and additional sources: Tina Teng, senior analyst, wireless communications, for iSuppli; Francis Sideco, senior analyst, wireless communications, for iSuppli; Andy Castonguay, director of mobile and access devices at Yankee Group; and Allen Nogee, principal analyst, wireless technology, for In-Stat.

MONEY


An available Navigation System*with up–to–the–minute weatherforecasts is almost a necessity whenyou live in California where it seemslike one drop of rain can really wreakhavoc on the roads.

Vehicle shown with optional equipment. *The Navigation System is designed to assist in locating an address or point of interest. XM NavTraffi c® and XM NavWeather™ require a monthly service fee. XM NavTraffi c is designed to provide real-time traffi c or alternative routes of travel. XM NavWeather is designed to provide real-time weather and forecasting information in your general vicinity and along your route of travel. Discrepancies may be encountered between the system and your actual location. Road system changes may affect the accuracy of the information provided. Rely on your common sense to decide whether to follow a specifi ed route. Detailed coverage not available in every city or roadway. Periodic Navigation updates available at an additional cost. Please see your Navigation System Owner’s Manual for further details. ©2009 Lexus.

To see the other ways you helped shape the 2010 RX, visit lexus.com/ALL NEW RX.

THE RX HAS ROGERYU’S NAME WRITTENALL OVER IT.

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