RESEARCH REPORT

RAPPORTO DI RICERCA

Contributors:

Alice Bae Lindsey Martin

HISTORY

The 1980s was one of Europe’s greatest economic periods, setting a favorable

environment for Melusine. Melusine was born in 1982, and was sold in the market

for about 10 - 15 years. Luana and Andrea Boccalini wanted to create a high-end luxury brand, a step above

the medium-level image of Luana handbags. They partnered with Roberto Giannini, leather expert designer, to develop a brand that would set impacting trends in the handbag industry.

Roberto Giannini had innovative visions for Melusine, to the point that the brand itself became experimental and risky. Eventually, Melusine was discontinued because Giannini no longer found inspiration and began making standard designs, straying from the inventive purpose of the brand.

MATERIALS & PRODUCTION

Melusine bags were primarily based on craftsmanship and handmade details,

which are especially visible in their signature technique: weaving.

Local materials were used, so the products emphasized the quality of genuine Italian leather. Melusine relied on the Italian craftsmen’s expertise and knowledge of leather, much of which has been lost in today’s generation of Italians. The bodies of the bags were constructed in Marche, a region 250 km. from Tuscany.

The main material used was vacchetta. In addition, many bags were created with real reptile skin and printed reptile skin (python, crocodile).

 

BRAND IMAGE

THE MELUSINE WOMAN > Sportive-chic > Fashionable > Trendy > High taste > 25 - 45 years old

INNOVATION Back in the 80s, handbags were usually monotonous and plain in terms of color and technique. Melusine was all about creating

new trends, such as: > Weaving > Bi-colored bags > Embossing As a result, Melusine became a brand that represented the

updated woman.

CLINTELE & PRICE

The Japanese especially liked vacchetta and handmade products. They have a good

eye for fashion and quality. Price range: (Most expensive bags: £ 1,000,000 à € 516.46)

Price increased by 10 - 15% yearly.

Target: medium/high class clientele

ITALY

U.S.A. Neiman Marcus,

Harrod's

JAPAN Mitsukoshi

£ 200,000 - £ 500,000

(Italian lira)

€ 103 - € 258 (today’s Euros)

COMPETITORS

HENRY BEGUELIN (main competitor) History: bags and belts were handmade with vacchetta and recycled materials in the

island of Elba (Italy) starting in the early 80s.

Price range: € 607 - € 1,296 Average price: € 1000 Additional notes: the brand has managed to remain present until today by continuously focusing on craftsmanship and timeless luxury. Beguelin relies on the leather expertise of artisans in Vigevano, who acquired the ancient skills from their ancestors. The brand currently carries 18 lines.

CRAFTSMANSHIP TIMELESS

UNIQUE LUXURY

BOTTEGA VENETA (not a competitor, but bags are of comparable styles)

History: the brand was founded in Vicenza (Veneto region) in 1966. Veneto

specialized in ready-to-wear, so Bottega Veneta used very fine leather that would fit in the sewing machines, which were meant for fabric. The fine leather had to be

woven to become strong enough to form accessories.

Price range: € 350 - € 19,500 Average price: € 2,000 Additional notes: Bottega Veneta has become a superb luxury brand by combining

traditional techniques with innovation. In 2006, the company founded a

school to train leather artisans.

CRAFTSMANSHIP LUXURY

INNOVATIVE CONTEMPORARY

 

MELUSINE’S PROSPECTS

OBSTACLES > Consumer behavior has changed since the 80s > Decreased appreciation for craftsmanship

> Name value: consumers are unwilling to spend on a Melusine bag since the name is not well recognized

> High price & unknown brand à does not correspond

> Weaving, bi-colored bags, embossing à no longer new > Modern technology allows ideas to run fast à copying is easier

> Difficult to find the ancestral artisanal skills today

> Takes too long to hand-weave bags, while the industry is fast-paced today

> High labor costs for handcrafting à low margin of profit > Modern consumer is less forgiving of flaws in handmade products

TACKLING THE NEW MARKET > Big investment in advertising (suggested by Luana & Andrea)

> Chinese and Brazilian consumers have greater appreciation for handmade products (suggested by Luana & Andrea) > Stay true to Melusine’s foundation (craftsmanship, quality leather) but also adapt new strategies (innovation) to reach the modern consumer

> Merge with a brand already well established (example: Patrizio Bertelli worked on Granello bags, then integrated his techniques into Prada) -Granello: handcrafted bags, concept similar to Melusine

Many thanks to Giuditta Boccalini, Luana Boccalini, and Andrea Boccalini

for their cooperation.