McCall's Essential Guide to Sewing

ESSENTIALGUIDETOSEWING

$24.95 U.S. • $26.95 CAN

The perfect go-to reference for modernsewers from beginner to expert,McCall’s Essential Guide to Sewing ispacked with knowledge, tips, andhow-tos on every aspect of sewing.In this remarkable resource, you’ll

find all the essentials right at yourfingertips: detailed descriptions of tools,supplies, and notions; an exhaustivesurvey of techniques for machine- andhand-sewing; guides to choosing andusing fabrics and working withpatterns; tips on making patches andrepairs; plus unique information onmarketing and selling your designs, 100FAQs, and a comprehensive glossary.

Brigitte Binder consults forcreative firms, publishers, andmedia outlets, designs embroiderymotifs for prominent companies,and leads workshops on digitalembroidery.Jutta Kühnle has had her ownstudio specializing in bridal,menswear, custom-made, andchildren’s clothing.Karin Roser is a freelance editor,designer, and author who designspieces for numerous craft andhome and garden magazines.

P R I N T ED I N CH I NA

sixthandspringbooks.com

An indispensable companion for sewersat all skill levels, with essential know-howon everything from fabric to finishing.

CRAFTSSEWING

Whether you’re just learning to sew ora seasoned expert,McCall’s EssentialGuide to Sewing is sure to become atreasured part of your crafting library,a richly illustrated reference to thetools, materials, and techniques youneed to sew, embellish, alter, andmend projects of all types.

INSIDE YOU’LL FIND:• A comprehensive look at sewingsupplies, including machines, tools,needles and thread, and notions• Facts on fabric, from selection topreparation to care• A guide to understanding andworking with patterns• Illustrated, step-by-step instructions on afull range of techniquesused in creating andaltering garments andhome décor• Advice on selling yourprojects online, at craftfairs, and in retail shops• Answers to 100 FAQson topics drawn fromevery chapter• An exhaustiveglossary of terms

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$24.95 US • $26.95 Canada

ISBN: 978-1-936096-72-5


BRIGITTE BINDER • JUTTAKÜHNLE •KARIN ROSER

Tools • SuppliesTechniques • Fabrics • PatternsGarments • HomeDécor

ESSENTIA

LGU

IDETO

SEWING

Brigitte Binder, Jutta Kühnle & Karin Roser

Binder,Kühnle&Roser

The McCall Pattern Companydesigns, manufactures, and sellssewing patterns worldwide under thepremier brands Butterick, Kwik Sew,McCall’s, and Vogue Patterns, andpublishes the consumer magazineVogue Patterns.

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ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO SEWING

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BRIGITTE BINDER • JUTTA KÜHNLE • KARIN ROSER

Tools • Supplies Techniques • Fabrics • Patterns

Garments • Home Décor

ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO SEWING

sixth&spring booksNEW YORK


4

SEWING MACHINESSew Many Possibilities 10Functions of the Sewing Machine 12Professional Finishing 16Sewing Machine Accessories 18

SEWING TECHNIQUESSewing by Hand 68Preparations for Handsewing 70Assorted Hand Stitches 73Essential Machine Stitches 80Fundamental Machine Seams 88Sewing with Specialty Fabrics 93Finishing Seams 102Handsewn Hems 107Glued Hems 109Machine-Sewn Hems 110Specialized Sewing Techniques 114Decorative Sewing Techniques 120

SEWING EQUIPMENTEssential Equipment 30Types of Needles 34Machine Needles 36Types of Thread 40Embroidery and Novelty Threads 43Helpful Extras 46Essential Notions 48Helpful Stabilizers 56Interfacings 60Recommended Ironing Equipment 62Pretty and Practical 64

TEXTILES 101Textile Manufacturing Processes 138Fabric Treatments and Finishes 140Fibers and Their Properties 142Fiber Quality Marks 147Fabrics and Fabric Selection 148Fabric Care 158

ContentsSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSPPPPPPPHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAASSSSSSSSSEEEEEEEE

TTTTTTTTTTTTTPPPPPPPPFFFFFFFFFFaaaaaaaaFFFFFFFPPPPPPP

TTTTTTT

CONTENTS


5

PREPARING TO SEWBefore Cutting 184Pattern Preparation 186Cutting 187Cutting Various Fabrics 192Cutting Interfacings and Linings 194Getting Connected 196Recovering from Errors 197

ALL ABOUT PATTERNSBody Measurements and Figure Types 162What Is a Pattern? 166The Paper Pattern 169Pattern Alterations 174Styling Alterations 179

CREATING A GARMENTShaping with Darts 200Specialized Stitching Lines 202Facings 203Neckline Treatments 205Faced Yokes 211Sleeves 212Sleeve Closures 215Comfortable Waistbands 222Sewing In Linings 226Closures 228Practical Pockets 248

TECHNIQUES FOR HOME DÉCORHandsewn Trims and Tapes 258Pillow Talk 264Curtains and Drapes 274Making Mitered Corners 281

PATCHES AND REPAIRSMending with a Sewing Machine 284

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW

USEFUL KNOWLEDGEMarketing Your Handicrafts 296FAQs — 100 Common Questions 302From A to Z — Glossary 310Index 316


6

PREFACE


7

DEAR READER,

Some books stay with us for a lifetime because they off er a wealth of knowledge at our

fi ngertips. McCall’s Essential Guide to Sewing is one of those books. For beginners and

experienced sewers alike, this colossal reference provides detailed instructions and

information on every sewing topic, from the operation of your sewing machine to basic

stitching techniques to making pattern alterations like an expert.

The world of sewing is becoming not only more innovative, but also more international.

Websites, sewing portals, and online purchasing opportunities provide a spectrum of

sources, inspiration, and instruction in many languages. McCall’s Essential Guide to

Sewing takes advantage of this global sewing community, off ering a world of expertise

in a single volume.

The Internet also off ers a variety of avenues for making money from your sewing.

Perhaps you’d like to sell your designs online: our “Marketing” chapter guides you

through the e-tailing process, explaining what to do and watch out for, beyond just

the legalities.

We hope that this book will be your go-to reference for years to come and will prove

to be a helpful partner in your sewing endeavors!

Yours,


8

SEWING MACHINES

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sewingmachines

BEFORE BEGINNING TO SEW, YOU NEED TO BECOME WELL ACQUAINTED WITH YOUR SEWING MACHINE AND ITS CAPABILITIES. PROPER CARE OF YOUR MACHINE PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE AS WELL. A WIDE ARRAY OF PRESSER FEET MAKES IT EASIER TO ACHIEVE PROFESSIONAL-LOOKING WORK, AND THE RIGHT CHOICE WILL LEAD TO MYRIAD CREATIVE POSSIBILITIES AND PERFECT SEWING RESULTS.

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fabric treatmentsand fi nishes

Fabrics need to be able to accommodate all kinds of uses and stand up to various demands. They get their specifi c qualities from specialized techniques. Chemical processing and fi nishing treatments can change the properties of a thread or weave, and mechanical treatments can create eff ects such as brushed surfaces. These treatments are mostly done for practical reasons or to make a fabric more versatile. Purely decorative treatments tend to involve dyeing and printing.

INDUSTRIAL TREATMENTSVarious industrial fabric treatments are done before, during, or after the creation of the fabric, and many more are achieved using a combination of methods. The following section covers the most common treatments and explains their most important characteristics.

ANTI-PILLINGA chemical treatment introduces a binding agent to reduce the formation of pills.

ANTI-STATICBecause of their low moisture content, synthetic fabrics tend to build up static electricity in dry conditions and will then cling. This chemical treatment largely prevents this static buildup.

ACRYLIC-COATEDCotton weave is sealed with an acrylic coating and thus becomes water repellant. Despite the coating, the look of the fabric remains unchanged and the weave stays fl exible.

ANTIMICROBIALA chemical treatment makes these fabrics resistant to various bacteria and fungi. The fabric is moisture-wicking and discourages the buildup of odors.

140

FABRIC TREATMENTS AND FINISHES

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141

ONLY PERMANENT FINISHES are washable; temporary fi nishes are not. Some treatments are not obvious or visible, so pay attention to the INFORMATION LABEL on the fabric bolt before making a purchase. If no label is attached, inquire further with the fabric seller, as treatments can aff ect the appropriate uses for a fabric.

MECHANICALLY TREATED FABRICS that have NO CHEMICAL SIZING COMPONENT must be PULLED GENTLY INTO SHAPE WHILE STILL DAMP after washing. Avoid dryers to prevent shrinking.

BLEACHWhen a white fabric is desired, natural colors and stains are removed with a chemical bleaching agent.

BOILEDBoiled wool gets its characteristic plush texture from a fulling process involving moisture, heat, pressure, and friction. The fabric weave becomes thick and dense as it shrinks.

BRUSHEDDepending on the brush and the type of fabric used, this can create a delicate to heavy surface pile and increase the warmth of a fabric. The fi bers are pulled to the surface of the fabric to varying degrees; this is a familiar texture on fl annel and velour.

CRUSH, CRINKLE, PLISSÉA crinkled eff ect is usually fi xed permanently through a chemical treatment. To maintain this look on fabric that is not permanently treated, the fabric should be stored, washed, and dried while twisted and folded up like a hank of yarn. It may also be dry-cleaned.

EASY CAREWith this treatment fi bers become more elastic and resist wrinkling; any creases that do occur smooth out again upon hanging. The fabrics are machine washable, quick drying, and require little to no ironing.

FLOCKINGFine textile fi bers are applied to the fabric surface with adhesive, creating a velvet-like, slightly raised pattern.

MERCERIZEDCotton and other natural fi bers are made stronger and thus tougher wearing through a treatment with sodium hydroxide (lye). They gain an added sheen and increased break resistance, and their texture becomes pleasantly soft.

SHRINK RESISTANTFabric is treated to prevent any later changes in form or size. The fabric becomes denser and either does not shrink further at all with additional washings, or will not shrink beyond a certain stated amount. A patented anti-shrink treatment is Sanforization, which guarantees that a textile will not shrink by more than 1 percent.

SIZINGIn the case of permanent sizing treatments, a mixture of chemicals ensures that the fabric maintains its sheen or strength, for example, even through regular washings. In contrast, temporary sizing will wash out over time (but can be reapplied).

SOIL RESISTANTTypically these fabrics have a waterproof fi nish and are not vulnerable to dirt or oils.

STAIN RESISTANTWith this treatment, water-, alcohol-, and oil-based staining is inhibited, and the removal of any stains that do occur is made easier. Fabric care instructions should provide information about treating diff erent stain types.

TEFLON COATEDThis chemical treatment makes textiles easy care and wrinkle resistant, as well as water repellant (moisture will bead on the surface). They are especially well suited for outdoor uses.

WATER RESISTANTThe fabric surface is treated with water-repellant chemicals to prevent immediate absorption of moisture; moisture beads up on the surface, but the fabric remains breathable.

WATERPROOFThe open weave of the textile is sealed, creating a waterproof, non-breathable fabric.

WRINKLE RESISTANTThis treatment gives more elasticity to a fabric’s fi bers, which prevents most wrinkling and allows any creases that do occur to smooth out again upon hanging. Cotton, linen, and viscose wrinkle especially heavily and thus are often given this treatment.

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186

When ADDING SEAM ALLOWANCES TO SHARP CORNERS ON A PATTERN PIECE (for example, at the underarm of a two-piece sleeve), you can create long and UNNECESSARY TRIANGLE POINTS. You should cut these points back to ⅜" (1cm), which will decrease the amount of excess fabric during sewing and make placement of the pattern pieces more effi cient.

ANYONE CAN LEARN to use our SEAM ALLOWANCE METHOD. It does not require special materials or any additional skills. It OPTIMIZES EACH STEP in the process.

patternpreparation

Most commercial patterns include seam allowances, so you can simply lay them out on the fabric as is and cut along the pre-printed cutting lines. However, patterns in sewing books and magazines, and from certain manufacturers (especially in Europe), often do not include seam allowances and may require that you trace the pieces onto a separate medium and add seam allowances before cutting. This section off ers guidelines for using these patterns.

SEAM ALLOWANCE/CUTTING LINE METHODPattern preparation using this method is somewhat diff erent, because either the seam allowances are already included in the pattern pieces (requiring no additional preparation) or you add them to the paper pattern itself before the pattern pieces are cut out. A good rule of thumb is that seam allowances should be ⅝" (1.5cm) all around. There are only a few exceptions:

STITCHING LINE METHODWith the stitching line method, each paper pattern piece is cut out along the stitching lines (i.e., seam lines), with no seam allowances added. Seam allowances will be added before the fabric is cut.

• On hems that are relatively straight (such as on pant legs, narrow skirts, or jackets), 1¼" (3cm) hem allowances are typical.

• On hems where the piece widens (such as on full or belled skirts), the hem allowance may be narrower than ⅜" (1cm).

• Seam allowances around zippers should be ¾" (2cm). Beyond the zipper, the allowance tapers back to ⅝" (1.5cm).

Once the seam allowances have been carefully added, you can cut the pattern pieces along the newly drawn cutting lines.

PATTERN PREPARATION


187

SAVE USED PATTERN PIECES along with project information such as size, date made, and a scrap and description of the fabric, and store them inside CLEAR PLASTIC SHEET PROTECTORS. This will make it easier the next time you use the pattern.

It is helpful to have a dedicated WORK SPACE where you can leave large pieces of FABRIC SPREAD OUT for the duration of the project.

cuttingFabric, lining, and interfacing are cut out using the paper pattern pieces as guides. Be sure to work economically and avoid unnecessary cuts and waste. The pattern layout guide on the instruction sheet will show the optimal pattern layout. Be sure to have sharp fabric shears, pins or pattern weights, a measuring tape, and your pattern pieces ready and close at hand.

PATTERN LAYOUTThe pattern layout is a helpful drawing that shows the optimal positioning of your pattern pieces; pay attention to the location of fold lines, selvages, grain lines, and any directions printed on the pattern pieces. Unless otherwise indicated, pattern pieces are placed printed side up on the fabric.


202

specialized

GATHERING will turn out more EVENLY if you sew a line of EASE STITCHING at 1⁄16–⅛" (2–3mm) on each side of the gathering line.

stitching linesAt certain times a special type of stitching line or seam is required to stabilize a piece of fabric or to sew two pieces together correctly.

EASE STITCHINGTo connect two edges of slightly diff erent lengths (for example, a sleeve cap in a set-in sleeve to the armhole), the longer piece must be made slightly smaller beforehand with the help of ease stitching. On pieces with only a very small diff erence in size, such as the back piece on a shoulder seam, it may be suffi cient to merely pin the pieces together and skip the ease stitching.To ease stitch, reduce the top thread tension slightly. Stitch using

IF YOU NEED TO SEW MULTIPLE PIECES together in a row, you can save time and thread by feeding the pieces through one after the other without breaking the thread each time. Snip the thread between the pieces after you are fi nished stitching all of them.

STAYSTITCHINGIf staystitching is done on a single layer of fabric, for example, on a slit, neckline, or armhole, it is to prevent the fabric from stretching out of shape while it is worked further.Staystitching can also reinforce completed seams at points that will be heavily stressed. This may also be referred to as reinforcement stitching.If a fabric edge is to be stabilized, sew with a normal straight stitch of about 13 spi (2mm long) next to the seam line within the seam allowance (as shown). To strengthen an existing seam, stitch directly next to the existing stitching using a slightly shorter straight stitch.

UNDERSTITCHINGTo keep a facing from rolling to the right side, such as on a neckline or arm opening, the opening may be topstitched (see page 17) from the right side. If a visible stitching line is not desired, however, you’ll need to understitch the facing. Sew the facing (shown here in light blue) to the main piece right sides together. Trim seam allowances, snip or notch curves, and press them toward the facing with the facing fl ipped upward. Stitch the facing from the right side directly next to the seam line, catching the seam allowances in the stitching. Turn the facing to the inside and press.

a long (about 6 spi*, or 4mm-long) straight stitch directly next to the seam line; do not secure stitching at the beginning or end. Pull on the bobbin thread until the additional width is drawn in evenly and any matching symbols line up correctly. (Usually the longer edge is pinned to the shorter one before the bobbin thread is pulled.) The fabric will be slightly distorted, but should not be allowed to form gathers or tiny folds. Once the seam is stitched, remove the ease stitching.*stitches per inch (see pages 12–13, number 6)

SPECIALIZED STITCHING LINES


203

ON TOPS MADE FROM LIGHTWEIGHT FABRIC, an extended facing is often folded in double, in which case NO INTERFACING IS NEEDED. Facings must be completed before topstitching the front edges.

AS A RULE, facings are cut out along the grain line to match the main fabric and are REINFORCED ON THE WRONG SIDE WITH INTERFACING to give the garment edges additional structure.

ON UNLINED GARMENTS, the outer edges of the facing must be fi nished to avoid fraying.

A facing is a piece of fabric that lines and fi nishes outer raw edges such as at necklines or arm openings. Depending on the shape of the edge, the facing may be part of the main piece or cut out separately.

OUTER EDGE WITH APPLIED FACINGFor rounded or diagonal edges a facing is cut separately. (On some patterns, the facing will not be a separate pattern piece and instead will be indicated as a section of the main pattern piece. Cut the facing and interfacing with seam allowances all around (if not already included). Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the facing.

facings

1 In cases where a collar will not reach to the end of the front edge, for example, when there are lapels (see page 208), pin the facing right sides together along the edges of the main piece and stitch to the marking (collar start point). Trim seam allowances and corners and press them apart.

2 The opening edge of the garment is shown from the right side with the (still unfi nished) facing applied and turned to the wrong side.

OUTER EDGE WITH EXTENDED FACINGFor straight edges on blouses and jackets, facings are often included as part of the main pattern piece and need only to be turned under to the wrong side. The facing will extend from the front opening edge and needs to include seam allowances (if not already included on the pattern). If the neckline will not have a collar, the back neckline will have an applied facing, as shown in step 1.

1 Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the facing sections and stitch, right sides together, at the shoulder seam. Press the seam allowances open and fi nish the edges if needed. With right sides together, pin the facing onto the neckline edge and stitch; the shoulder seams will lie on top of each other. Trim seam allowances and corners and snip curved sections if necessary.

2 Turn the facing to the inside and tack it down by hand at the shoulder seams; press.


258

handsewn trims and tapes

There is a vast assortment of ready-made tapes available in stores. You can make your own, too, if you want them in the same fabric as your project or if you have a specifi c color, width, or unusual pattern in mind.

BIAS TAPEDepending on the intended application, it is often necessary to cut fabric strips on the bias, i.e., diagonal to the fabric grain. Bias tape conforms well to shaping and is primarily used for binding raw edges. It is especially well suited for use on curved edges in place of a facing. Simply fold under its raw edges and it can be sewn directly onto fabric pieces as embellishment. Bias strips work best when made from lightweight cotton or jersey.

IF YOU WANT TO MAKE BIAS STRIPS out of satin, spray the fabric WITH SPRAY STARCH BEFORE CUTTING, and press fl at—this will discourage the fabric from slipping and make it easier to work with.

It is QUICK AND EASY TO MARK EXACT DISTANCES between lines with the help of an omnigrid ruler (see page 32, fi gure 6). It can also be used as a guide for a rotary cutter. A large triangular ruler works well, too.

The instructions for USING BIAS STRIPS to fi nish edges are on page 103.

CUTTING BIAS STRIPSA bias strip used for binding an edge must be four times the width of the fi nished binding visible on one side of the fabric edge. So, if the visible fi nished binding will be ½" (1.25cm) wide, cut a bias strip that is 2" (5cm) wide. Cut it the desired length plus seam allowances at the short ends.

1 Fold one straight-grained edge of the fabric diagonally so the selvage edge aligns with the cut (crossgrain) edge. This is the bias grain. Press the fold.

2 Unfold the fabric and mark lines of the desired width parallel to the fold line until you have the total length you need for your fi nished bias strip. Cut out the strips along the lines, ideally using a straightedge and rotary cutter on a cutting mat.

CONNECTING BIAS STRIPSIf a long bias strip is required, you will often need to connect several shorter strips together. The short ends are pieced together on the grain so that the strip does not lose any elasticity.

1 Pin together the slanted ends of the strips at a right angle and with right sides facing; small ends of the seam allowances will stick out on each side. Stitch.

2 Trim seam allowances to about ¼" (5–6mm), press open, and snip off the excess corners to be fl ush with the strip edges.

HANDSEWN TRIMS AND TAPES

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BIAS TAPE MAKERS come in a variety of sizes (see page 47, fi gure 4). The measurement shown on the tool indicates the WIDTH OF THE COMPLETED TAPE. If the measurement given is 1" (25mm), cut 2" (48mm)-wide strips. Add 1⁄16" (2mm) for very thin fabrics. The visible binding on the right side of an edge will end up ½" (12.5mm) wide. Instructions are printed on the packaging.

WELTING IS INSERTED INTO A SEAM OR APPLIED TO EDGES just like piping and cording (see pages 120–122); you can use a zipper foot or edging foot.

PRESSING BIAS STRIPSDepending on the application, bias strips may be used fl at (unfolded) or folded. A bias tape maker is a practical tool to help with pre-folding; an iron is also needed.

WITHOUT BIAS TAPE MAKERFold the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and lightly press the fold. Open the strip and press each long edge, wrong sides together, to the center.

WITH BIAS TAPE MAKERInsert the cut strip, wrong side up, into the wide end of the tool and then press the folded strip that emerges from the narrower end.

WELTINGWelting strips are fl at or have a rounded edge (this version may also be called piping) and are used as a decorative element. Welting is less voluminous than cording. Welting strips are made from bias-cut strips, often in a contrasting color. They can be inserted into seams or used to fi nish and strengthen edges.

DETERMINING WELTING WIDTHTo make welting, cut bias strips (see page 258). Determine the width for fl at welting as follows: twice the desired fi nished visible width plus two times the seam allowance; for example, for a ⅝" seam allowance, ⅝" (1.5cm) x 2 = 1¼" (3cm). The length is as needed.

FLAT WELTINGFold strips lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. You may topstitch along the seam line, although this is not absolutely necessary.

ROUNDED WELTING

1 To calculate the width of rounded/piped welting, add together the circumference of the fi ller cord and two times the seam allowance. To determine the cord circumference, lay the cord as pictured and fold a small corner of the fabric over it; pin in place. Mark a ⅝" (1.5cm) seam allowance, cut through both fabric layers along the marks, and unfold (this is the width for the starting bias strip). Depending on its fi ber content, the cord may need preshrinking.

2 Wrap the bias strip wrong sides together around the cord and use a zipper foot to stitch closely along the cord.


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PATCHES AND REPAIRS


283

patches and repairsYOUR JEANS ARE TOO LONG AND YOUR FAVORITE TABLECLOTH HAS A HOLE? IN THIS CHAPTER YOU WILL LEARN ABOUT THE SEEMINGLY MIRACULOUS FIXES YOUR SEWING MACHINE CAN HELP YOU ACHIEVE. AND WHEN A REPAIR IS NOT TOTALLY INVISIBLE, MAKE A VIRTUE OF NECESSITY—A PATCH CAN BE VERY DECORATIVE.


316

Indexaccessory case 14adhesives 55, 109 spray 55alteration, length 174alteration, multi-size pattern 178alteration, width 176animal fi bers 144appliqué 54, 57, 123 foot 24 scissors 31 3-D 271attachment lines 172awl 31

backstitch 72, 74basting 196basting stitch 73basting tape 55batiste 148beaded fabric 101, 153beads, sewing on 79, 134belt loop 225bias tape 52, 103, 104, 258bias tape, fusible 60binding curved edges 103binding straight edges 104binding strips 104 cutting 258blanket stitch 74bleach 141blind stitch 82, 108bobbin 18bobbin case, specialty 19bobbin winder 13bobbin case 14bobbin ring, silicone 19bodkin 34body measurements 162boiled wool 141, 148boning 54bouclé 148box cushion 272brocade 149buttonholes 84, 96, 97, 228–232 bound 232buttonhole stitch 78buttons 50–51, 85, 233, 236–237 backing 51 covered 233 knotted 235

laundry 50 sew-free 51 sewing on by machine 85, 237 sewing on by hand 236

care symbols 158center back 173center front 173chain stitch 17, 75chalk hem marker 33chalk pencil 33chenille 125–126, 149chenille cutter 31, 125chiff on 95, 149circle cutter 31coated fabrics 98collars 205–208 band, with 207 fl at 206 lapel 208 standing 207copyright 301cording 53cording tongue 26corduroy 149cotton rib 149couching 131coverlock machine 17coverlock topstitching 17coverstitch machine 17cross stitch 75crushed/crinkle fabric 149crêpe de chine 149cuff s, aligned 219cuff s, knitted 54cuff s, single-piece 218cuff s, two-piece 218 cuff s, underlap extension 219curtains 274–280 arched tabs 277 clips 276 gathered 279 rod tunnel 275 tied 278cutting mat 31cutting shears 31

damask 149darts 172, 200–201 cut, simple 201

simple 200 waistline 201decorative stitches 73, 86denim 98disappearing-ink marker 33dot stitch 76double face cloth 150

ease stitching 202easy care 141edges, concave 105edges, convex 106edges, straightening 184elastic 53embroidery machine 11embroidery fl oss 69entredeux 128envelope closure 265equipment, basic 45, 63eyelet pliers 47, 51eyelet stitching 129

fabric grain 172fabric shears 30fabric treatments 140–141 acrylic-coated 140 antimicrobial 140 anti-pilling 140 anti-static 140 boiled 141 mercerization 141 water resistance 141fabric tubes 260–262facings 172, 173, 203–204 applied 203 extended 203 hem 52, 112 shaped 112, 204faux fur 99, 150faux leather 98, 150feather stitch 76feed dogs 13felt 150felting machine 11fi gure types 165fi nishing seams 102–106 curved edges 105fl annel 151fl at stitch 75fl eece 151

INDEX

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fold line 171, 173foot pedal 14fray check 55free arm 14freehand embroidery 57, 132French knot 77French seam 90fringe 126frog closure 51, 235fusible webbing 55

gabardine 151gathers 116georgette 151gingham 151glen plaid 151glues 55, 109gauze 151

handwheel 13hem measuring tools 32 hemming tape 55, 109hems, glued 109hems, handsewn 107–108 rolled 108hems, machine-sewn 110–113, 268 blind stitch 111 decorative 113 deep folded 111 fl anged 268 rolled 112 single 110 sleeve, with elastic band 220hemstitching 128hem tape, weighted 280herringbone stitch 107hobby knife 31Hong Kong seam fi nish 105hook and loop fastener 240hook-and-eye closure tape 230hooks and eyes 51, 238 skirt 51

interfacing 60–61, 194 fl eece 61 waistband 60

jacquard 152jersey 152

knee lever 14knit fabrics 94, 139knots 71

lace 152laced eyelet closure 234lame 152leather 97linen weave 138

linings 156, 195, 226, 227lining, sewing in 226lining fabric 156, 195loop closures 234

magnetic snap 239marker, water-soluble 33markers, fabric 33marketing 296–301marking pen 33matching line 171microfi ber 152minky 96, 152mitered corners 250motor, sewing machine 14muslin (test garment) 181muslin (fabric) 152

neckband, elastic 210needle plate 13needles, hand sewing 34–35 ball point 35 beading 34 curved 34 darning 34 quilting 34 leather 35 tapestry 34 upholstery 34needles, machine 36–39 ball point 37 denim 37 leather 337 microtex 37 stretch 37 universal 37 wing 38needle, self-threading 34needle threader 13nonwovens 153notions 48

oilcloth 155organza 152overlap 173overlock seam 92overlock stitch 82oxford polyester 153

patchwork 135pattern grading 166pattern layouts 187pattern pieces, copying 170patterns, paper 169–173pick stitch 107pile fabric 153pillowcases 264–271 buttoned 267 fl anged hem 268

quilted 270 ruffl ed 269 tied 268 zippered 266pillows 264pin basting 196pinking shears 31, 102pins 35pinstripes 153pintucking 114 piping 52, 120placket neckline 209plain weave 138plant fi bers 142plissé 141pocket fl aps 252pockets 248–255 bellows 250, 263 hip-yoke 253 patch 248 rectangular 248 rounded 249 set-in 253 side seam 254 zippered 255poplin 153preshrinking 184, 305presser feet 13, 20–26 bi-level 24 binder 22 blind stitch 20 border guide 22 button attachment 21 buttonhole 21 candlewicking 24 chenille 26 circular 25 cording 23 darning 25 double cord 23 edge stitch 22 elastic 23 embroidery 25 felling 22 fringe 26 lap seam 22 looping 26 nonstick 24 open freehand/toe walking 25 pintuck 26 piping 23 quilting or patchwork 26 ribbon 25 roller 22 rolled hem 20 satin stitch 24 seam guide 24 sewing star 25 shirring 22, 117


318

standard (zigzag) 20 straight stitch 20 walking 23 walking, integrated 14 zigzag (standard) 20 zipper 21 zipper, invisible 21presser foot holder 13presser foot lever 13presser foot pressure controller 13

quilted fabric 154quilting 135quilting machine 11quilting seam guide 26

reverse (wrong) side 185reverse stitch button 13ribbon patchwork 57right side 185rivets 51rotary cutter 31ruffl er 23ruffl es 118–119rulers 32running stitch 74

safety pins 35sashiko machine 11satin 154satin weave 139scissors, embroidery 30seam allowance 172seam binding 52seam, raw 89seam ripper 18, 30, 64, 84seams, machine 88–92 denim 90 double saddle stitch 89 felled 90 French 90 mock coverstitch 92 overlap 91 saddle stitch, simple 89 simple 88seams, securing 72seersucker 154selvage 173sergers 11, 16sequined fabric 101, 154sewing light 14sewing machine care 15sewing machines 10–17 see also specifi c typessewing machines, mechanical 11shoulder pads 54shrink resistance 141silhouette 165size charts 163

sizing, fabric 141sleeve placket 217sleeves 212–221 fl at 213 kimono 214 raglan 214 set-in 212slip stitch 75slit, darted 220slit, faced 216slit, seamline 216slit with bound edges 215smocking 130snaps 51, 238snap tape 240spool cap 18 spool holder 19stabilizer 56–59 heavy-duty 58 water-soluble 59stay stitching 202stem stitch 76stitches, hand 73–79 see also specifi c stitchesstitches, machine 80–87 see also specifi c stitchesstraight stitch 80straight stitch plate 19straps 260stretch fabric 93sweatshirt fabric 154synthetic fi bers 145

table, extension 19taff eta 154tailor’s chalk 33tape measure 32teddy fur 100terrycloth 154textile adhesives 55, 111thimble 35thread 40–44 basting 42 basting, water-soluble 42 bobbin 43 buttonhole 42 darning 42 denim 41 elastic 42 embroidery 42 pearl cotton 41 polyester (all-purpose/universal) 41 quilting 42 serger 41, 44 tension 13, 86 transparent 42 weight 40, 86thread chain 78thread ends, securing 72

thread guide 13thread take-up lever 13thread tracing/marking stitch 77threading 70topstitching, straight 103topstitching, zigzag 103tracing wheel 33transfer pen 33tucks 115tulle 155tweed 155tweezer scissors 31twill weave 138

underlap 173

velour 155velvet 96, 155vinyl 98voile 155

wadding 134waistbands 222–224 elastic 224 faced 224 shaped 222 straight 223warp knits 139warp thread 138weft thread 138whipstitch 74widths, fabric 156wonder tape 33wrinkle resistance 141wristbands, elastic 221wristbands, woven 221wrong side 185

yardstick 32yoke, faced 211

zigzag stitch 81, 102zigzag stitch, elastic 81zippers 49, 241–247 centered 243 endless 49 exposed 246 fl y opening 244 invisible 49, 245 lapped 242 pant 49 separating 49, 247 standard 49zippers, shortening 241

INDEX


Copyright © 2011 frechverlag GmbH, 70499 Stuttgart, Germany (www.frech.de)Translation copyright © 2014 by Sixth&Spring Books/Soho Publishing, LLC

The original German edition was published as Nahen—Das Standardwerk.

This edition is published by arrangement with Claudia Bohme Rights & Literary Agency, Hannover, Germany (www.agency-boehme.com).

McCall’s name and logos are copyright The McCall Pattern Company. Used by permission.

The Woolmark logo is reproduced with the permission of Australian Wool Innovation Limited, owner of The Woolmark Company. The Seal of Cotton is reproduced with the permission of Cotton Incorporated. The Masters of Linen logo is reproduced with the permission of CELC Masters of Linen, Paris.

Text on pages 295–301 courtesy of Tina Hees.

Grateful acknowledgment is made to the following German sources:Coats GmbH, Kenzingen (embroidery thread, zippers), www.coatsgmbh.de; Freudenberg Vliesstoff e KG, Weinheim, www.vlieseline.de; Gütermann GmbH, Gutach-Breisgau (thread, embroidery and sewing stabilizer), www.guetermann.com; HOECHSTMASS Balzer GmbH, Sulzbach (tape measures), www.hoechstmass.com; KnorrPrandell GmbH, Lichtenfels (buttons, ribbons, beads, and closures), www.knorrprandell.com; MADEIRA Garne–Ulrich +Michael Schmidt & Co. GmbH, Freiburg, www.madeira.de; Pfaff –VSM Deutschland GmbH, Karlsruhe (sewing machines and presser feet), www.pfaff .com; Prym Consumer GmbH, Stolberg (various tools), www.prym-consumer.com; RAYHER HOBBY GmbH, Laupheim, www.rayher-hobby.de; Ferd. Schmetz GmbH, Herzogenrath (needles), www.schmetz.de; Stoff ekontor, Leipzig, www.stoff e-kontor.de; VENO–Hermann Veddeler GmbH, Bad Bentheim (Clover accessories), www.veno.com; Westfalenstoff e AG, Munster www.westfalenstoff e.de.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or information storage-and-retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher.

The written instructions, photographs, designs, projects, and patterns are intended for the personal, noncommercial use of the retail purchaser and are under federal copyright laws; they are not to be reproduced in any form for commercial use. Permission is granted to photocopy patterns for the personal use of the retail purchaser.

Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available from the Library of Congress.

ISBN: 978-1-936096-72-5

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$24.95 U.S. • $26.95 CAN

The perfect go-to reference for modernsewers from beginner to expert,McCall’s Essential Guide to Sewing ispacked with knowledge, tips, andhow-tos on every aspect of sewing.In this remarkable resource, you’ll

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Brigitte Binder consults forcreative firms, publishers, andmedia outlets, designs embroiderymotifs for prominent companies,and leads workshops on digitalembroidery.Jutta Kühnle has had her ownstudio specializing in bridal,menswear, custom-made, andchildren’s clothing.Karin Roser is a freelance editor,designer, and author who designspieces for numerous craft andhome and garden magazines.

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INSIDE YOU’LL FIND:• A comprehensive look at sewingsupplies, including machines, tools,needles and thread, and notions• Facts on fabric, from selection topreparation to care• A guide to understanding andworking with patterns• Illustrated, step-by-step instructions on afull range of techniquesused in creating andaltering garments andhome décor• Advice on selling yourprojects online, at craftfairs, and in retail shops• Answers to 100 FAQson topics drawn fromevery chapter• An exhaustiveglossary of terms

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$24.95 US • $26.95 Canada

ISBN: 978-1-936096-72-5


BRIGITTE BINDER • JUTTAKÜHNLE •KARIN ROSER

Tools • SuppliesTechniques • Fabrics • PatternsGarments • HomeDécor

ESSENTIA

LGU

IDETO

SEWING

Brigitte Binder, Jutta Kühnle & Karin Roser

Binder,Kühnle&Roser

The McCall Pattern Companydesigns, manufactures, and sellssewing patterns worldwide under thepremier brands Butterick, Kwik Sew,McCall’s, and Vogue Patterns, andpublishes the consumer magazineVogue Patterns.

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