Struktur Event 2015MAY 2015 TRENDINSIGHTMAG.COM

THE SHOW ITSELF PAGE 2

KEY TAKE AWAYSPAGE 4

DESIGN CHALLENGES

PAGE 8

COMMENTS & QUOTESPAGE 10

Q&A WITH FREDRIK DAHL

PAGE 11

Struktur Event

May 6-8, 2015Portland, ORstrukturevent.com

Design leadership was a focus of this year’s Struktur Event, and speakers addressed the theme of elevating the role of design within the outdoor/

active space from all sorts of angles during the Portland, Oregon conference. Topics ranged from how to achieve designer involvement from A to Z in the product development cycle, to understanding design patents to panel discussions on the “Modern Outdoors Woman” and “Bags are the New Sneakers.” Small companies shine at Struktur and the relaxed grassroots vibe blends the professional with the personal unlike traditional industry gatherings.

Struktur 2015 had a bigger, more diverse crowd of designers and creative execs, as well as expanded corporate support compared to the inaugural event last year. Textile sponsors on-board included Polartec, Cordura, Bemis, XRD and Textile Insight. Struktur is evolving quickly by connecting with a contemporary outdoor audience that appreciates aesthetics, brand ethics, and views good design as a springboard for innovation. Sharing ideas, getting inspired and learning from others whether via a design challenge, a Q&A with a speaker, or conversation over afternoon coffee or evening cocktails at a nearby retail locale, is fundamental to Struktur’s growing appeal.

STRUKTUR EVENT 2015

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CARPETRENDEM

The Show Itself

Giving Voice and Vision to Design

1) Conference organizers Sam Ward and Michelle Rose during Struktur’s Opening Night Reception held at University of Oregon’s White Stag Innovation Lab in Portland. 2) Designers got a close up look and feel of materials featuring Bemis technology. 3) Designers Amanda and Luis Quehl at the Poler store after-party. 4) Polartec fabrics provide performance for multi-purpose end uses. 5) Cordura execs Cindy McNaull and Maggie Niu. 6) Eddie Bauer designers.

Sharing ideas, getting inspired and learning from others.

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POLARTEC.COM

A fresh perspective with a broader point of view, where experience is king

and suggestion is more powerful than description, is re-defining outdoor design. Urbanization, customization, and sophistication are shaping the style and functionality of product entering the market. Non-endemic forces are influential. Social media, Asian and Scandinavian aesthetics, and the strength of a sharing economy all play a role in how the industry is forging a new path. A shift from expert to entry level is also trending with an eye on consumers who have an authentic connection to a wide assortment of interests and an affinity for non-indigenous outdoor activities. In other words, “Not indoors” is the “New Outdoor.” Small design-centric brands are providing momentum for change, and bring a modern outlook to how people dress and the gear they carry.

STRUKTUR EVENT 2015

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Shifting Landscapes

Top Take Aways from Portland

1) Women are establishing new outdoor communities. 2) Eric Bach, co-founder, Hipcamp, a new website that makes finding and booking campsites easier. 3) Andrea Westerlind has been instrumental in introducing European outdoor brands to the U.S. market via innovative branding, retail and industry collaborations. 4) Designers from Goldwin check out the Snow Peak retail store. 5) Rick Fowler, Youngone manufacturing. 6)This Snow Peak shirt jacket exemplifies simple, yet sophisticated outdoor style. 7) “The Modern Outdoors Women” panelists included, from left: Ali Carr Troxell, Headwater Collective; Bryan Reed, Backcountry.com; Jenn Zollars, Mountain Hardwear; and Jesse Cote, K2 Snowboards.

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PROTECTION IN ACTION!

Words like “connectivity,” “culture,” and “community”

resonate with today’s younger outdoor audience. Hikes are now meet-ups. Collaboration is the name of the game. Story telling is what engages and binds a younger generation of users to brands. Evolving technology is creating personal connections between individuals and industry like never before. Garment construction, tech and type of textile, while still important to the consumer, it is not the defining reason for purchase. A style-focused approach with products that value design equal to function, and fashion appeal, is key to this emerging tribe in step with a more progressive outdoor. Innovative brands, like Carryology, for instance, encourage community by acting as a “campfire,” for enthusiasts to gather ‘round online to share stories and gain insights.

STRUKTUR EVENT 2015

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Next-Gen Outdoor

A Design-Focused Approach Steps Ahead

1) Benji Wagner, co-founder Poler Outdoor Stuff, talked about the younger generations’ perspective on outdoor product. 2&3) “Bags are the New Sneaker” panelists included, from left: Martina Brimmer, Swift Industries; John Canfield, High Above; and Hadrien Monloup, Bellroy. They said that they “want sneakers to take inspiration from bags.” 4) Attendees filled the new, much bigger Poler retail store, which out-grew its original location around the corner. 5) Jeanine Pesce, writer, stylist and founder of Range creative agency specializing in active trends. 6) Backcountry design director Bryan Rees. 7) Nathan Mack, product director apparel at Giro.

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Struktur attendees split into groups, put thinking caps on, and built protective

prototypes using XRD materials. The challenge: to design a wine bottle holder/carrier that would resist breakage when dropped from the top of a six-foot ladder into a kiddie pool lined with concrete. Participants were given 20 minutes and the room buzzed with creative energy. The result: fabulous designs and lots of laughs.

STRUKTUR EVENT 2015

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Prototype Pronto

On Your Mark, Get Set, Design!

1, 2 & 3) XRD execs Angela Walters, brand manager, and Dave Sherman, director of XRD Impact Institute, lent technical expertise about the company’s range of impact protective materials. 4) University of Oregon students got a chance to participate in the design challenge. 5) Rachel Boyd, designer, Eddie Bauer. 6) Prototypes on display. 7) Designers from Backcountry and IDeology collaborate. 8) From left, designers Tracey Cottingham, Lyn Edwards and Aaron Barker create Le Sac. 9) Friends and co-workers from Range.

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May 4-6, 2016

Contact us to get involvedhello@strukturevent.com

Education and leadership were a Struktur theme, where “Learding” was coined as a hybrid of

“Learn and leading.” 1) David Sherwin spoke eloquently on “Design Leadership. He leads the user experience design team at lynda.com and is a Fellow at frog. 2) Nau creative director Allison Ross introduced #learding in her engagingly quirky keynote. 3) Michelle Rose hopes to elevate the role of design in active/outdoor with Struktur Event being key to that mission.

STRUKTUR EVENT 2015

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Commentary & Chatter

Quotes From The Crowd

Talking Points and Trend Direction

“LEADING IS NEVER ENDING LEARNING, AND IS THE CREATION OF CULTURE.”Allison Ross, Creative Director, Nau

“WE DON’T SUPER-STRESS ABOUT THE FUNCTION.”

Jedd Rose, Topo Designs

“WE BELIEVE IN OUTDOOR. WE BELIEVE IN DESIGN. WE BELIEVE IN THE POWER OF THE OUTDOOR INDUSTRY AND HOW THIS SHAPES THE WAY PEOPLE WILL DRESS IN THE FUTURE. WE WANT TO LIFT THE DESIGN PROFESSION.” Michelle Rose, Co-founder, Struktur

“WE SHOULD BE LOOKING TO URBAN CULTURES FOR INSPIRATION.” Nate Borne, Manager North America, Snow Peak

“WE WANT SNEAKERS TO TAKE INSPIRATION FROM BAGS.” Taylor Weldon, Senior Editor, Carryology

“WOMEN DON’T HIKE IN HIKING PANTS, THEY HIKE IN LEGGINGS.”

Jeanine Pesce, Founder, Range, reporting on the “Modern Outdoor Woman.”

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Designer Fredrik Dahl was unable to attend Struktur, but was there in spirit. Well-regarded for his role as design director at The North Face, Dahl now

heads the J. Lindeberg Ski Collection for the Swedish clothing brand. We caught up with Dahl by phone recently. Here are excerpts from that conversation:

What defines strong design?My grandmother could spot a Porsche—it could

be an older model Porsche or a new Porsche but she would recognize it as a Porsche. The same is not true of a Toyota or a Mazda—these are hard to spot—they fall into the “everything and nothing is the same” category. And it is not due to price. The look doesn’t cost.

I think for brands to have their own identity and look—that has gone away in the outdoor industry. If you lined up 10 jackets and hid the logos you cannot tell them apart.

The strongest power is now in the hands of the retailer. The distribution and the risk averse attitude are contributing to lack of uniqueness. Also the out-door industry is stuck in old ways of thinking and is afraid to change. If I go back 20 years to the black and yellow TNF look—everyone knew it was TNF. But now the product range is so big. It’s not that it looks bad, but it looks like all the others.

In the premium ski segment there is a lot more uniqueness. When we introduced J. Lindeberg skiwear, it was important to have a look that fit in be-tween brands. We didn’t want to be the same as the others. The thinking was, we ‘need to add something

new.’ And that approach has been very successful. With outdoor, the quality is good, the products

are affordable, but the look is exactly the same. There is a passion for business but not passion for the product. It is all about money vs. creating fantastic brand identity.

How is the focus on lifestyle impacting outdoor apparel design?

In general people in fashion are more free thinkers. It is more important to bring newness vs. bringing improvements. In sport, the product has to be better than the previous—lighter, more-perfor-mance, etc. In fashion, the product has to be newer. We in the outdoor industry are a bit stuck. Every-thing has to be extremely functional.

In ski, however, while it used to be that skiers wanted racing skis like the athletes had, in recent years we’ve learned that intermediate skis were easier to use and more fun to ski with. The outdoor industry needs to be more open-minded to this idea. Maybe this strategy of infusing fashion with function will bring newness.

Explain the design identity you bring to J. Lindeberg.

When it comes to design, I like products that look good and make us look good wearing them. Whether that is looking good athletically, or making us look slimmer or look more athletic. The product “brings the best out of me” and is a flattering ana-tomical design.

In terms of tech vs. fashion, you can be both. You can hit that spot. Put the cut lines where they should be; make it minimalistic but interesting at the same time.

What’s important for your brand is to create a strong identity and stay true to it. Don’t follow the trends—consumers mix and match everything, so going by trends is not reasonable. Create your look, find a palette you like and stick with it. Some people will love it, and some won’t but in the end a strong design identity will win out.

What’s the challenge facing outdoor now? Right now it feels like we are waiting for some-

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We didn’t want to be the same as the others. The thinking was, we ‘need to add something new.’ And that approach has been very successful.

Designer Q&A

Fredrik Dahl, Creative Director Ski, J. Lindeberg

Front: M Alaska Jkt JL 3-Ply

Camo, Back: M Augusta Jkt JL

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