Marimekko-dress knitted frombirch – Ioncell method offersnovel possibilities

Herbert SixtaSchool of Chemical Technology

WoolSilkAngoraCashmereothers

CottonFlaxJuteHempOthers

ViscoseModalLyocellCuproAcetate

CaseinCollagenArdeinZein

PolyesterPolyamideElastanPPPUAcrylPET

CarbonCeramicsGlassMetal

Cellulosebased

(MMCF)Protein-based

Cellulosebased

Protein-based

Natural fibersFrom natural

polymersSyntheticpolymers

Inorganiccompounds

Man-made fibers

FIBERS

Textile Fibers Overview

Cellulosebased

(MMCF)

Global Production of Textiles

Man-made cellulosics : CV, CLY, ACETATENatural fibers : CO, Wool, Flax, Hemp, Silk, etc.Synthetic fibers: PE, PP, PA, PAC

The Fiber Year 2013 - World Survey on Textiles & Nonwovens

1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 20200

20

40

60

80

Global Fiber Production, Mio t

50.8 Mt Synthetics

5.5 Mt other NF1.1 Mt Wool

5.2 Mt MMCF

23.3 Mt CO

Predicted growth of Regenerated cellulosefiber

The Fiber Year 2013: World Survey on Textiles`& Nonwovens, April 2013

Global textile market- Cotton stagnant at 26-28 Mio t/a- 33-37% minimum share of

cellulosics in textiles- GAP of 15 Mio t/a of cellulosic

fibers in 2030

Growth rates- Viscose, Lyocell > 9%/a- Acetate 1.5%/a

1940 1960 1980 2000 20200

2

4

6

8

10 MMC staple fiber, Mio t/a

1940 1960 1980 2000 20200

2

4

6

8

10 MMC staple fiber, Mio t/a

6%

9%

6%

Textile chain

http://www.lenzing.com/en/fibers/tencel/botanic-fiber.html

IONCELL-F Final product

Viscose vs. Lyocell

Viscose Lyocell

NaOH / CS2

wet spinning dry-jet wet spinning

derivatization direct dissolution

wood pulp

Andrzej Ziabicki, Fundamentals of fiber spinning,John Wiley & Sons Ltd, (ISBN: 0-471-98220-2).Michael Hummel

O

NO

H2O

Why Alternatives to NMMO?

NMMO is an oxidant and relatively unstable:• Autoxidation reactions via Carbonium-iminium ions:

Stabilizer

• Radical scavenger• Formaldehyde trap

Rosenau, T. et al. Cellulose, 2002, 9, 283Rosenau, T. et al. Progress in Polymer Science, 2001, 26(9), 1763-1837.

IONCELL-FLyocell Process using a

stable ionic liquid

Spinning line: Dope preparation

Final dope has to be filtrated and degassed

pulp

Ionic Liquid

10

Extrusionvelocity

Take-up velocity

Spinning line: Extrusion

Spinning line: Aftertreatment

11

dryingwashingcollecting

IONCELL* Solution

UNSTRETCHED STRETCHED

Dope Spinnability

Good spinnability

Adapted from A. Michud et al. ACS conference, New Orleans, 2013

65-70ºC

IONCELL-F Production

Comparative strength properties

Finnish Birch Pulp as raw material

0 5 10 15 20 250

200

400

600

800

1000

CuproViscose, CV

NMMO

Tena

city

cond

[MP

a]

Elongationcond [%]

IONCELL-F

Modal, CMD

0 10 20 30 400,0

0,2

0,4

0,6

0,8

1,0

CV CMDNMMO

Tirecord

s, GPa

Young's modulus [GPa]

IONCELL-F

IONCELL fiber shows superior strength properties and can bealso used as reinforcing fiber in light weight composites

Fiber Value Chain

15

Waste Paper and Board as Raw MaterialNOT SENSITIVE TO RAW MATERIAL:Pre-treated, and DP-adjusted Recycled Copy Paper (P) andBoard (B) used as raw material

P1 P1 P2 B4 B5 B3 B2 PHK CV0

10

20

30

40

50

60

REFBOARD

Tensile Strength, cN/tex

COPY PAPER

Properties from IONCELLfibers prepared from recycledpaper and board superior thanreference viscose fibers (CV).

Yibo Ma, PhD Thesis

Demonstration runs

SCARF: 11/13 Marimekko®DRESS: 3/14

designed by Tuula Pöyhönen