Mardi Gras Sampler by Mitchell Rosenthal

8/3/2019 Mardi Gras Sampler by Mitchell Rosenthal

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Mardi Grasrecipe samplerMITCHELL ROSENTHAL

with Jon Pult

Photography by PAIGE GREEN

CookingMY WAYback homeRQQQQQS

TEN SPEED PRESSwww.tenspeed.com


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MARDI GRASATHOME

THE MENU

Smoky Chicken Hock Gumbo withAndouille Sausage and Green Onion

Chicken and Smoked Andouille Jambalaya

The Peacemaker

Warm Beignets with Powdered Sugar

King Cake

Sazerac's Sazerac

Uptown Hurricane

Beer

More Beer

While POPULAR IMAGES OF MARDI GRAS in New Orleans suggest colorful floatsrumbling down St. Charles Avenue, their masked riders tossing out beads and baubles, or a groping throng on

Bourbon Street fueled by liquid hurricanes and hand grenades (the potable kind), and cheap beer in ridicu-

lously large vessels, its much more than that. Certainly those images represent parts of the Mardi Gras cele-

bration in New Orleans, but they are hardly the whole of it. The mid-century New Orleans writer Robert Tallant

begins his 1947 book Mardi Gras, by remarking that the celebration is a spirit, an immortal one. At least as

immortal as Mans ability to make believe . . . to have fun, to laugh and to play. Hes right. Thats why just as

important as the parades and the excess are the smaller gatherings, the camaraderie of the folks assembled at

the corner bar, and, of course, the house party, Mardi Gras most basic unit.

THE MARDI GRAS PARTY can take many forms. Sometimes its merely a few drinks before heading out for a

parade, or a house near the parade route with an open door policy, people coming and going throughout the

day with the promise of fried chicken, a keg of beer and a clean bathroom. Other times it is merely a celebra-

tion of the season, unconnected to any larger parade or event. It can take the form of a sprawling fete on

Esplanade with a Dixieland band roaring away on the porch, or just a few friends and an ipod on a small street

Uptown. But whether high or low, whether drinking Dom Perignon or Dixie Beer, these house parties are all of

a piece: a celebration of New Orleans unique spirit of, well, celebration.

BUT YOU NEED NOT be in that particular bend in the Mississippi River to join in the festivities. You can catch

that spirit anywhere, and feed it with, say, a po-boy of fried oysters and shrimp.

WHAT I MEAN TO SAY is that a Mardi Gras party can be as simple as a pot of gumbo and a Professor Longhair

record playing in the background. That doesnt mean you cant opt for excess and offer a bounty of classic

New Orleans foodjambalaya, po-boys, oysters on the half-shellfestoon every surface with purple, gold

and green, make masking de-riguer and carefully curate a playlist of carnival classics. As long as you have the

spirit, there is no wrong way.

HERE ARE SOME SUGGESTIONS for bringing a little bit of the spirit of Mardi Gras to your house this Carnival

season.

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T E N S P E E D P R E S S | W W W . T E N S P E E D . C O M T E N S P E E D P R E S S | W W W . T E N S P E E D . C O M

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T E N S P E E D P R E S S | W W W . T E N S P E E D . C O M

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SmokyChicken-

Hock GumbowithANDOUILLE SAUSAGE

and GREEN ONIONRQQQQQQQQQS

Down in New Orleans, ever yone claims to have a gumbo

recipe thats the best ever. Well, Ive got mine, too. Here

it is. I learned the technique for making this gumbo

twenty-five years ago, while working at K-Pauls in the

French Quarter. The addition of the ham hock is some-

thing I came up with when we opened Town Hall. It adds

body, richness, and a slightly smoky flavor. (If you cant

find a ham hock, just double the amount of andouille

sausage.) Making gumbo is an example of what I call a

long-term relationship recipe . Not only do you have to

find your way with it over time, but, lets face it, making

gumbo takes a while. So thin k of this dish as an opportu-nity to cook for a group of your friends and get everyone

involved. Simply put, gumbo is the perfect party dish. If

you are on your own, gumbo, like most soups and stews,

matures with time, so preparing it early in the morning

or even a day in advance will only make it better.

A good gumbo demands a good roux, and making a

good roux is an art. First, it helps to have the right tools.

For the amount of roux this recipe requires, you need a

cast-iron pan 8 to 10 inches in diameter. Thats the perfect

size for the amount of flour and oil you are going to use.

Also, lets be honest here: When you make a roux, you

need to be careful. If it gets on your skin, it is going to

burn. They dont call it Cajun napalm for nothing.

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Serves 6

CHICKEN-HOCK STOCK

21/2pounds chicken bones (such as wings, necks, and backs )

1 ham hock

4 quarts water

1 carrot, sliced

1 celery stalk, sliced

1 yellow onion, sliced

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon peppercorns

CHICKEN

1 whole chicken, or 6 pieces, such as 3 thighs and

3 breast halves, totaling 31/2to 4 pounds

Oil, for frying

Salt

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons Town Hall Spice Mixture (page 19)

ROUX

3/4cup oil reserved from frying chicken

(or fresh canola oil, if you p refer)

3/4cup all-purpose flour

1/2cup diced yellow onion

1/4cup diced celery

1/4cup diced green bell pepper

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

1 teaspoon Town Hall Spice Mixture (page 19)

2 tablespoons oil reserved from frying chicken

(or fresh canola oil, if you p refer)

4 cups diced yellow onion

1/4pound andouille sausage, diced


21/2cups diced green bell pepper

11/2cups diced celery

1 heaping teaspoon chopped garlic

1 heaping teaspoon diced jalapeo chile

1 teaspoon salt

2 quarts Chicken Stock (page 19)

Freshly ground pepper

About 3 cups cooked white rice

2 green onions, green part only, thinly sliced on the diagonal

To make the stock,preheat the oven to 375F. Place the

chicken bones and ham hock on a sheet pan and roast,

turning once, for about 45 minutes, or until golden brown.

Transfer the browned bones and hock to a large stock-

pot. With a spatula, scrape up any browned bits stuck to

the sheet pan and add to the pot, then pour in the 4 quarts

water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat to

a simmer and skim off any fat and foam that has accumu-

lated on the surface. Add the carrot, celery, onion, bay leaf,

and peppercorns and stir well. Simmer uncovered, stirring

occasionally, for 1 hour.

Remove the pot from the heat. Lift out the ham hock,

let cool, pull off the meat, and set aside. Strain the stock

through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding the solids. Measure

out 2 quarts of the stock for the gumbo, cover, and refriger-

ate. Reserve the remaining stock for another use. It will keep

in the refrigerator for up to 3 to 4 days or i n the freezer for

up to 2 months.

to cook the chicken,pour the oil to a depth of

11/2inches into a large, deep frying pan and heat to 375F.

Meanwhile, season the chicken with a little salt. In a largezippered plastic bag, combine the flour and spice mixture,

seal closed, and shake to mix. Then, add the chicken pieces

to the flour mixture one at a time and shake to coat evenly.

Shake off the excess flour from each chicken piece,

place in the hot oil skin side down, and fry, turning once,

for about 7 minutes on each side, or until the pieces are a

deep golden brown and cooked through. (If the pan is not

large enough to fry the chicken without crowding, cook the

pieces in batches, always allowing the oil to return to 375F

before adding a new batch.) Using a slotted spoon, transfer

the pieces to a plate.

When the chicken pieces are cool enough to handle,

pull the meat off the bones, discard the bones, and set the

meat aside. Let the oil cool to room temperature, then strainthrough a fine-mesh strainer into a clean container and

set aside.

to make the roux,have a shee

ing it. Heat the oil in a cast-iron pan ov

the surface of the oil just starts to ripp

whisk continuously. When it st arts to

down the heat to medium-low and co

about 5 minutes, or until the r oux bec

brown. Take the pan off the heat, stir

and bell pepper, and continue to stir fo

the mixture to the sheet pan, spread it o

2 to 3 minutes. Drizzle the Worcestersh

the top, then scatter the garlic and spic

the top. Stir to combine and set aside.

to finish the gumbo, in a la

over medium-high heat. Add the onio

occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or unt

Lower the heat to medium, add the saus

of the spice mixture, and stir and scrap

or until the spice mixture is lightly to

Lower the heat to medium-low and coo

continuing to stir and scrape and doing

anything from sticking to the bottom

Add the bell pepper and celery an

garlic, jalapeo, the remaining 2 table

mixture, and the salt and cook, stirrinsionally, for about 10 minutes.

Skim off and discard any fat fro

2 quarts stock, then add the stock to t

making sure you scrape the bottom a

Bring to a boil over high heat, then low

mer and skim off any fat from the su

the roux, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring

addition completely before adding t

When all of the roux has been incorp

simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasi

Finally, fold in the reserved chicken

and heat through. Season with the pe

adjust the seasoning.

to serve,place a heaping spoon

individual bowl and ladle the gumbo o

with the green onions and serve right


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ChickenandSMOKED ANDOUILLE

JambalayaRQQQQQQQQQS

When we make jambalaya at Town Hall, we make it in

very large portions. In other words, we start the pot with

a twenty-five-pound sack of onions. Just to caramelizethose onions takes the better part of an hour, and by the

time we have finished adding the other base ingredients,

the cook charged with minding the pot has been stir-

ring and scraping for more than an hour. Restaurants

necessarily work in these outsized portions, but the pro-

cess, though not the size, is the same at home. So here is

another instance in which you have a long-term relation-

ship with your dish. Although youre starting with just a

couple of large onions and not a sack, the scraping and

stirring step, as well as e very other step, is just as impor-

tant, because following those steps is the only way to get

the flavor you want.

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Serves 6 as a main course or12 as a side dish

1/3cup canola oil

1 whole chicken, 31/2to 4 pounds, boned and cut into

3-inch pieces, or about 21/2pounds boneless, skinless

chicken (thighs and breasts)

1 tablespoon butter

2 large yellow onions, diced

2 cups (about 3/4of a pound) andouille sausage cut into1/2-inch pieces

1 cup (about 1/4pound) tasso, cut into 1/2-inch pieces


2 large green bell peppers, seeded and diced

3 celery stalks, diced

1 jalapeo chile, seeded and finely diced

1 tablespoon minced g

Salt and freshly ground p

One 15-ounce can tomato sauce or c

1 tablespoon tomato p

2 cups long-grain white

3 cups Chicken Stock (pa

2 bay leaves

Thinly sliced green onions, fo

P

reheatthe oven to 375F.

In a heavy-bottomed ovenprover high heat. Working in batches, ad

skin side down, and cook for 2 minut

Transfer to a plate and set aside. Wh

has been browned, drain the oil from t

ing cup and return 1/4cup of the oil to

remainder). Add the butter and heat

the butter melts. Add the onions and

wooden spoon, scraping the bottom o

any little browned bits that might be st

occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or

begin to brown. Add the andouille,ta

of the spice mixture and cook, continu

tom of the pot, for about 10 minutes,

onions are caramelized. Add the green

garlic, the remaining 1 tablespoon sea

1 teaspoon salt and cook for 10 more m

pot bottom every so often to loosen a

might be sticking.

Stir in the tomato sauce and th

return the chicken to the pot. Let cook f

medium heat. Add the rice, stock, and b

a boil. Cover, transfer to the oven, and

or until the rice is tender and the liqui

Remove from the oven and let rest

serving. Remove and discard the bay

individual plates or shallow bowls, ga

onions, and serve.


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ThePeacemakerRQQQQQQQQQS

Food in New Orleans causes lots of arguments. Like when

you are on line at the neighborhood poboy shop and argu-

ing whether to go with the fried oyster loaf or the fried

shrimp. This argument is internal, and results in a series

of interior negotiations and deliberations until compro-

mise is reached: half oyster, half shrimp. One sandwich,

both crav ings assu aged. Th ats why thi s is c alled The

Peacemaker: it helps you make peace with yourself.

Use medium-sized oysters and large shrimp for

the best result. The key here is to make sure the crispy

coating on the shrimp and oysters is neither coarse nor

mealy. Corn flour does the trick beautifully. Finally, I like

to use Crystal hot sauce, but as this sandwich is called

The Peacemaker, Id rather not argue. Use any hot sauce

youd like.

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Makes 6 sandwiches

1 cup Mayonnaise (page 251)

2 tablespoons Crystal hot sauce

Canola oil, for deep-frying

2 cups corn flour

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 cups buttermilk

1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 pound f reshly shucked medium-sized oysters

(sold in a jar or tub)

1 head romaine lettuce, thinly sliced crosswise

2 tomatoes, thinly sliced

2 loaves French bread, each cut crosswise into thirds

(about 6 inches long), then each third

split horizontally

In a small bowl,stir together the

sauce, mixing well. Set aside.

Pour the oil to a depth of about

fryer or deep cast-iron frying pan and

the oil is heating, line a sheet pan wit

large bowl, stir together both flours, th

salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Pour

second bowl, add the shrimp, toss to co

minute or two. Then, working in batch

out of the buttermilk, allowing the exceinto the bowl, and add to the flour m

evenly, then shake off the excess and p

sheet pan. When all of the shrimp ar

process with the oysters. (It is importa

shrimp in the buttermilk first, as the oy

of a better term, and because this is a N

make the buttermilkfunky).

Again working in batches to avoi

shrimp to the hot oil and fry for about

golden brown. Using a wire skimme

transfer to paper towels to drain. Kee

the oysters, frying each batch for abou

golden brown, then drain on paper tow

Smear a liberal amount of the m

mixture on the bottom of each bread p

4 each of the hot fried shrimp and oy

want a little more spice, hit the shrimp

dashes of hot sauce, straight from the

lettuce and tomato slices and then the b


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Warm BeignetswithPowdered SugarRQQQQQQQQQS

Its no surprise that the Town Hall menu , with its many

nods south to New Orleans, includes that Caf du Monde

classic, beignets. Serve them with a strong cup of coffee

and pretend youre on Decatur Street.

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Makes 24 beignets; serves 6

1/2cup plus 1 tablespoon warm water (110F)

1 packet active dry yeast

1/3cup sugar

23/4cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

2 large egg yolks

1/3cup plus 1 tablespoon whole milk

13/4teaspoons ground nutmeg

11/4teaspoons salt

1/8teaspoon baking powder

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus

more for bowlCanola oil, for deep-frying

Powdered sugar, for dusting

Placethe warm water in the bowl o

with the dough hook attachment,

top, and whisk to dissolve. Add a pin

sugar and let stand for 5 minutes, or u

Add the flour, the remaining suga

nutmeg, salt, and baking powder. Mix o

30 seconds, or just until the dough com

butter and mix on medium speed for

the butter is completely incorporated

to high and mix for about 2 minutes, smooth and shiny, stopping to scrape

bowl as needed.

Butter a large bowl. Gather up th

into a loose ball (it will be sticky). Pla

bowl, cover the bowl tightly with plast

a warm spot until the dough rises to

size, about 11/2hours.

Punch down the dough and turn

floured work surface. Roll it out into a

about 1/4inch thick. Cut into twenty-fou

let rest for 10 minutes before frying.

Pour the oil to a depth of 3 to 31

fryer or deep, heavy-bottomed pot,

Working in batches, add the dough s

ing once, for about a minute on each s

Using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon

to paper towels to drain briefly.

Dust the beignets generously w

Serve immediately.


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KingCake

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On the evening of January 6th, also known as the 12th

Night, when the Phunny Phorty Phellows don their

masks, pile into a St. Charles Avenue streetcar and make

their way downtown, the Carnival season in New Orleans

officially begins. It also heralds the start of King Cakeseason, whereby piles of simple, boxed coffee cakes fes-

tively iced in purple, gold ,and green, appear everywhere,

from grocery stores to gas stations, and make their way

to office break rooms, school common areas and small

house parties. A small plastic baby is hidden in the cake.

Tradition holds that whoever gets the baby in their slice

has to bring the next cake to work, or host the next "King

Cake" party. And whoever gets the baby at that party has

to host the next . . . and on and on, forever, or at least until

Mardi Gras. We dont have occasion to make King Cake

in San Francisco, so we looked to the Crescent City for

this recipe, a lighter, more elegant version filled with mas-

carpone cheese and strawberry jam. It comes to us from

our friends at La Divina Gelateria on Magazine Street,

a lovely spot we recommend you visit on your next trip

to New Orleans.

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Serves 6 to 8

CAKE

3 cups all-purpose unbleached flour

1/2cup potato starch

1 tablespoon, plus 1 teaspoon dry yeast

11/2teaspoons salt

1/3cup sugar

3/4teaspoon baking powder

4 tablespoons, plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter,

melted and cooled

2 eggs at room temperature

1 egg yolk at room temperature (white reserved)3/4cups buttermilk

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 teaspoon Orange Blossom water

FILLING

1 cup Mascarpone cheese mixed with 2 tablespoons

Confectioners' Sugar

1/2cup strawberry jam

ICING

1 cup Confectioners' sugar

1/4cup whole milk

(whisked together)

Purple, gold, and green colored sugar

Small plastic baby or dried fava bean

First, sift together all the dry ingredients in the bowl of a

electric mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. In

a large bowl, mix together the butter, buttermilk, oil, and

Orange Blossom water. Gently stir in the eggs and egg yolk.

Pour the wet ingredients into the mixer with the dry

and mix on low speed for 2 to 3 minutes or until the dough

has come together. Increase the speed to medium high and

beat for 5 to 8 minutes. The dough should form a long cylin-

drical mass and easily detach from the hook.

Remove the dough from the mixer and place in a

well-oiled bowl. Cover with a dish towel and put the bowl

somewhere warm to rise for 1 1/2to 2 hours, or until it has

doubled in size.

Gently punch the dough down and then remove it from

the bowl and form into a long cylinder. On a clean work

surface lightly dusted with flour, use a rolling pin to roll the

dough out into a long, thin rectangle, approximately 2 feet

long by 6 inches wide and about inch thick.

Next, spread the marscapone evenly down the middle

of the dough (it should be in a strip a little less than a thirdas wide as the dough), and then spread the strawberry jam

evenly across the top of the cheese. Place plastic baby or dried

fava bean somewhere within the filling.

Starting at one end, twist the dough so that it folds over

on top of itself. Continue doing this, gently forming a spiral,

like a rope, guiding the dough with your hands to make sure

no filling escapes. When the dough is in one long spiraled

tube, take the ends and fold them into each other, making a

oval shape. Pinch the dough ends together.

Place the cake on a greased or parchment covered cookie

sheet and cover with a damp tea towel. Put it in a warm place

and let it rise for another 45 minutes, or until it feels soft and

plump. Brush the dough with the reserved egg white.Preheat your oven to 350 degrees and bake until golden

brown, about 20 to 25 minutes, rotating half way through

the cooking time.

Remove from oven, let cool. Decorate with icing and

colored sugarpurple, gold, and green!

Happy Mardi Gras!

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SazeracsSazerac

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My brother-in-law has lived in New Orleans for more

than twenty years. This is his favorite drink. He likes it

so much, in fact, he invented a character called Sazerac

the Clown(If youre in New Orleans on Mardi Gras, say

hello . . . hell be the clown with the ukulele talking a littletoo loudly). Anyway, lets be honest a Sazerac is pretty

much and Old Fashioned, sans ice, and with a little Pastis.

Sazerac the Clown thinks that in barrooms this drin k is

served too cold. That said, you want the whiskey mixture

just slightly chilled, so dont stir too v igorously. Thats

how Sazerac likes a Sazerac. Who am I to argue?

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Serves 1

1 sugar cube,

3 dashes Peychaud bitters

Herbsaint, to rinse the glass

2 ounces Rye whiskeyIce

First, pack an old f ashioned glass with ice. Next, place the

sugar cube in a cocktail shaker with a couple of drops

of water and the Peychaud bitters. Muddle and set aside.

Toss the ice out of the old fashioned glass and add a bit of

Herbsaint, turning to coat the inside, and then pour out any

excess. Add the Rye to the shaker, along with some ice, stir

and strain into the prepared glass. Garnish with a lemon

peel. Cheers!

UptownHURRICANE

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Ask a New Orleans bartender how to make a Hurricane

and theyll reply Make it tall. Make it strong. Make it

red. This ubiquitous New Orleans cocktail, seen slosh-

ing over the hands of Bourbon Street revelers 365 days

a year, was originally concocted at the French Quarter

institution, Pat Obriens, as a sweet, fruity way to unload

an extra-large rum delivery. Pat Os, as it is known among

the local folk, now uses a dry mix as the basis for its sig-

nature drink. Our more refined version, using a combina-

tion of light and dark rum and fresh fruit juices, is tall,

strong and reddish. If too strong, just cut down on the

rum. And if you cant get your hands on passion fruit

juice, just substitute some orange, fresh squeezed.

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serves 4

4 ounces light rum

4 ounces dark rum

2 ounces fresh squeezed lime juice

2 ounces fresh passion fruit juice (or substitute

fresh squeezed orange juice)

2 ounces fresh pineapple juice

1 ounce of Grenadine

Plenty of ice

In a pitcher, combine the rum, fresh juices and Grenadine.

Stir well. Pour into 4 highball glasses filled with ice.

Garnish with a slice of lime or orange (or both) and a straw.

Town HallSPICE MIXTURE

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Many chefs have a signature spice mix, a blend that is a

kind of trademark. Paul Prudhomme had his spice mix-

ture (now on grocery shelves across the country); and at

the Four Seasons, Seppi Rengglis featured many aromat-

ics like mace and star anise, nice complements to fish.

This is a mixture Ive come up with. Youll note that the

main ingredient is cayenne, givin g dishes an added jolt of

heat, and reflecting what I like to do at Town Hall. But

dont feel bound by this mixture, play with the propor-

tions. Consider this Town Hall Spice Mixture a starting

point for your own.

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Makes a scant 1/3cup

2 tablespoons cayenne pepper

11/2teaspoons paprika

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon white pepper

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2teaspoon dried thyme

1/2teaspoon dried oregano

1/2teaspoon ground cumin

1/4teaspoon ground coriander

1/4teaspoon dry mustard

1/8teaspoon celery salt

Mix togetherall the i ngredients until well combined.

Store in an airtight container i n a cool cupboard. The

mixture will keep for up to 6 months.

Chicken StRQQQQQQQ

In the kitchen, good stock is one of t

ingredients at your disposal. If you h

mercial broth or stock, first make su

and second be mindful of the amount

for directly and act accordingly, adjust

compensate for the salt youre puttin

bought stock (like I said, taste your f

to avoid this possible pitfall is to maa free day, buy a gang of vegetables a

cook up some stock and tuck it away

will keep for months.

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4 quarts

41/2pounds chicken bones (including

8 quarts water

1 leek, sliced

1 yellow onion, coarsely ch

2 carrots, sliced

2 celery stalks, sliced

1 bay leaf1 teaspoon black pepperc

6 to 8 parsley stems

A few sprigs of thym

Place the bones in a large stock p

quarts of water and bring to a boil o

lower to a simmer and skim off any fa

accumulated on the surface. Add the rem

and simmer, uncovered for 2 hours, sk

the surface as necessary. Pour the stock

strainer to remove all solids. The stock w

for a week, or freeze for up to 3 month


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T E N S P E E D P R E S S

THE MUSIC

The music of new orleans,in its many variations, is integral to the season and equally important to

a good MardiGras party. That unmistakable and indescribable beat is the perfect way to get your guests

into the Carnival mood. While each of the citys musical genresbe it traditional jazz, rhythm and blues, or

greasy New Orleans funk, has its own clutch of tunes associated with Carnival Time, as we said, Mardi Gras

is a spirit, and that spirit is deeply embedded in just about any tune recorded by a New Orleans artist. Some

of your best bets would include masters of New Orleans funk, The Meters, a Doctor John disc, any classic

New Orleans Rhythm and Blues from the 50s and 60s (you know, Fats Domino, Lee Dorsey, Ernie K-Doe),

something by the new crop of brass bands, or just some good old traditional jazz. But if you have the time, or

the inclination, you might go for more specificity and search out the classic music of Mardi Gras. There are

a number of compilations you can download, but pay special attention that they include at least some of the

following Carnival classics. Theyre infectious, and are sure to get the folks in the right frame of mind, you

know, infuse them with the spirit and get them moving.

Go to the Mardi Gras|Professor Longhair:Here, the legendary piano man suggests If y oure going to New

Orleans, you oughta go see the Mardi Gras. Hes right, but if youre not going, this recording, with its rollick-

ing piano, insistent shuffle beat and whistling(!) makes a pretty fair sonic substitute.

Big Chief |Professor Longhair:Another must for the season from the Bach of Rock and Rock and Roll

Hall of Fame inductee.

Carnival Time|Al Carnival Time Johnson:You know its a classic when the songs title becomes the singers

de facto middle name.

Mardi Gras Mambo|The Hawkettes:The honking saxophone intro to this 1954 hit serves as a Carnival

clarion call, the end of which causes entire barrooms of folk to turn from their drinks and offer a guttural

ungh in unison.

Jockamo|James Sugarboy Crawford:Hey now! A Mardi Gras Indian Chant reimagined as an R & B burner.

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IKO IKO|The Dixie Cups:New Orleans favorite girl groups stripped down version of Sugarboys Jockamo

They All Asked for You|The Meters:Nobody knows how or why this seeming childrens song, oddly punctuate

with culinary references and exhortations to Laissez les bon temps roulez, became associated with Mar

Gras, but who cares. Feel the funk and let the good times roll.

The Second Line|Stop Inc.:Ubiquitous this time of year, and with good reason. This one might start a parad

in your living room.

Handa Wanda|The Wild Magnolias:The Mardi Gras Indian tradition serves as the basis for many a carniv

classic (Big Chief, Jockamo). Here, Bo Dollis and the Wild Magnolias (one of the citys most well known tribesoffer a funk take on a traditional Indian chant. Very greasy.

Meet de Boys on de Battlefront|the Wild Tchoupitoulas:Before there were the Neville Brothers, there were th

Wild Tchoupitoulas . . . the Neville Brothers backing their uncle, George Landry (Big Chief of that particula

tribe) on a series of funkified Mardi Gras Indian numbers.

Do Watcha Wanna|The Re-Birth Brass Band:A classic of more recent vintage, its repetitive lyric serves as

kind of instruction manual for the season. Do watcha wanna, indeed.

King of the Zulus|Louis Armstrong:This instrumental commemorates the great Satchmos life-long dream

to reign as King of the Zulu Social Aide and Pleasure Club on Mardi Gras day. He fulfilled that dream i

1949, becomi ng carnivals first Celebrity Monarch. Download the 1957 version with the spoken introduct ion

Tootie Ma is a Big Fine Thing|Tom Waits and the Preservation Hall Jazz Band: Its a bohemian Mardi Gra

as Tom Waits and the Preservation Hall band cover the legendary Danny Barkers jazzy take on the Mard

Gras Indian Tradition.

If Ever I Cease to Love|various versions:The unofficial anthem of Mardi Gras and the official anthem of th

Rex Organization. A tale of the world t urned upside down. Perfect.

The Day After Mardi Gra|Lakefront Loungers:This very rare recording is a post celebratory lament that begin

My poor head is aching, my two hands are shaking, the day after Mardi Gras. It ends on a more upbeat not

proving the present condition worth i tIm almost dead here, but Ill be back next year . . . If you do you

party right, so will your guests.

T E N S P E E D P R E S S | W W W . T E N S P E E D . CO M


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T E N S P E E D P R E S S

THE ATMOSPHERE

Youve got the menu planned,the playlist is set, now you have to decide how far you want to go in

terms of atmosphere. As we said, you can just put a record on and f east on some tasty New Orleans food.

However, you might want to take your Mardi Gras fte a little further. A simple internet search will reveal scores

of outfits offering supplies for a Mardi Gras Party. You can load up on beads, plastic cups, some simple masks,

maybe even crepe paper streamers or plastic bunting in purple, green and gold (the colors of Mardi Gras),

and transform your house into a visual slice of New Orleans. Or, you might pretend its Mardi Gras day and

opt for a full-on costume party and require everyone to dress up (remember part of the celebrations spirit is

make-believe). You can even take a cue from the citys many carnival organizations (known as Krewes), whos

parades and masked balls are always based on a theme. Go ahead, give your party a theme and require your

guests to dress appropriately. A Mardi Gras party can be as sophisticated or as simple as you want.

We understand that, as you might hear someone on a French Quarter balcony remark while gazing out

at the throbbing street below, Everywhere else, its just Tuesday. Perhaps a Tuesday in late February isnt the

best day to host a party. But remember, the Carnival season starts, officially, on January 6th, Twelfth Night, and

the parades start a little over two weeks prior to Fat Tuesday. Below, youll find the schedule of those parades

threading through the streets of New Orleans this Carnival season, as well as each krewe's theme for 2012. So

go ahead, pick a krewe and build your party around its big day.

SATURDAY, February 4th

Krewe du Vieux| French Quarter 6:30 p.m. | Theme: Crimes Against Nature

FRIDAY, February 10th

Krewe of Oshun| Uptown 6:00 p.m. | Theme: Childs Play


Krewe of Pontchartrain| Uptown 2:00 p.m. | Theme: Where is What Louisiana Festival?

Knights of Sparta| Uptown 6:00 p.m. | Theme: Le Carnaval De Animaux

Krewe of Pygmalion| Uptown 6:45 p.m. | Theme: The Name of the Game is . . .

SUNDAY, February 12th

24

u

Krewe of Carrollton| Uptown 12:00 p.m. | Theme: Celebrate Louisiana

Krewe of King Arthur| Uptown 1:15 p.m. | Theme: Louisiana Statehood Bicentennial

Mystic Krewe of Barkus(Dog Parade!) | French Quarter 2:00 p.m.

WEDNESDAY, February 15th

Mystic Krewe of Druids| Uptown 6:30 p.m. | Theme: Secret

Mystic Krewe of Nyx | Uptown 7:00 p.m. | Theme: Secret

THURSDAY, February 16th

Knights of Babylon| Uptown 5:45 p.m. | Theme: Secret

Knights of Chaos| Uptown 6:30 p.m. | Theme: Secret

Krewe of Muses| Uptown 6:30 p.m. | Theme: Secret

FRIDAY, February 17th

Knights of Hermes| Uptown 6:00 p.m. | Theme: Secret

Le Krewe dEtat| Uptown 6:30 p.m. | Theme: Secret

Krewe of Morpheus| Uptown 7:00 p.m. | Theme: Louisiana Treasures


Krewe of Iris| Uptown 11:00 a.m. | Theme: Messenger of the Gods

Krewe of Tucks| Uptown 12:00 p.m. | Theme: Tucks Get Culture

Krewe of Endymion| Mid-City 4:15 p.m. | Theme: Happily Ever After

SUNDAY, February 19th

Krewe of Okeanos| Uptown 11:00 a.m. | Theme: Gone but not Forgotten

Krewe of Mid-City| Uptown 11:45 a.m. | Theme: Apocolypso: Party at the end of the WorldKrewe of Thoth| Uptown 12:00 p.m. | Theme: Streets of New Orleans

Krewe of Bacchus| Uptown 5:15 p.m. | Theme: Louisiana Bicentennial

MONDAY, February 20th

Krewe of Proteus| Uptown 5:15 p.m. | Theme: Mythologica Aquatica

Krewe of Orpheus| Uptown 6:00 p.m. | Theme: Nonsense and Tomfoolery

MARDI GRAS DAY, February 21st

Zulu Social Aid & Pleasure Club | Uptown 8:00 a.m. | Theme: From Zulu With Love

Krewe of Rex| Uptown 10:00 a.m. | Theme: Lore of the Ancient Americas

T E N S P E E D P R E S S | W W W . T E N S P E E D . CO M


13/13

Copyright 2011 and 2012 by Mitchell Rosenthal with Jon Pult

Photography copyright 2011 by Paige Green

Foreword copyright 2011 by Wolfgang Puck

All rights reserved.Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press,

an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.

www.crownpublishing.com

www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House,

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Rosenthal, Mitchell, 1960-

Cooking my way back home : recipes from San Franciscos

Town Hall, Anchor & Hope, and Salt House / by Mitchell Rosenthal with Jon Pult;

photography by Paige Green.

p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references.

ISBN 978-1-58008-592-2

1. Cooking, AmericanCalifornia style. 2. Cooking, AmericanSouthern style.

3. Town Hall (Restaurant : San Francisco, Calif.)

4. Anchor & Hope (Restaurant) 5. Salt House (Restaurant)

6. Cookbooks. I. Pult, Jon, 1966- II. Title.

TX715.2.C34R67 2011

641.59794dc22

2011011631

Printed in China

Design by Toni Tajima

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition

Order your copy today:Amazon

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COOKING MY WAY BACK HOME

Recipes from San Franciscos Town Hall,

Anchor & Hope, and Salt House

by Mitchell Rosenthal with Jon Pult

8 x 10 inches, 272 pages, full color

$35.00 hardcover (Can $40.00)

ISBN: 977-1-58008-592-2

eBook ISBN: 978-1-6074-078-0

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