Mani _ Patrick Leigh Fermor

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9/8/2015 Mani | Patrick Leigh Fermor http://patrickleighfermor.org/category/paddyswriting/manipaddyswriting/ 1/7 Patrick Leigh Fermor He drank from a different fountain CATEGORY ARCHIVES: MANI 2014 Stavros Niarchos Foundation Lecture at Yale University: “Patrick Leigh Fermor In Greece” Artemis Cooper presenting the 2014 Stavros Niarchos Foundation lecture Artemis Cooper giving the 2014 Stavros Niarchos Foundation Lecture at Yale University. A video is available on YouTube here or via the embed below. The blurb introduces things as follows: Patrick Leigh Fermor’s rst travels in Greece took place before the outbreak of the Second World War, and he already spoke uent Greek by the time he was parachuted into occupied Crete in 1942 to help the Cretan Resistance, which in May 1944 resulted in the abduction of a German general. Leigh Fermor settled in Greece in the 1960s, and lived there until his death in 2011. His books Roumeli: Travels in Northern Greece and Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese are two of the best travel books in the English language. The talk is about his life and friends in Greece, and how much the country meant to him. Mark Granelli brought this video to my attention and had this to say: It is quite fascinating, and includes a beautiful extract from ‘Mani’ where Paddy is accompanied by dolphins on a ferry trip. It focuses a lot on Paddy’s time in Crete. The Q&A at the end turns up some personal information about Paddy and also references Olivia Manning and Fitzroy Maclean.

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Transcript of Mani _ Patrick Leigh Fermor

Page 1: Mani _ Patrick Leigh Fermor

9/8/2015 Mani | Patrick Leigh Fermor

http://patrickleighfermor.org/category/paddyswriting/manipaddyswriting/ 1/7

Patrick Leigh FermorHe drank from a different fountain

CATEGORY ARCHIVES: MANI

2014 Stavros Niarchos Foundation Lecture at Yale University: “Patrick LeighFermor In Greece”

Artemis Cooper presenting the 2014 Stavros Niarchos Foundation lecture

Artemis Cooper giving the 2014 Stavros Niarchos Foundation Lecture at Yale University.

A video is available on YouTube here or via the embed below. The blurb introduces things as follows:

Patrick Leigh Fermor’s 쯁rst travels in Greece took place before the outbreak of the Second World War, and he already spoke ꭹ梷uent Greek by the time he was

parachuted into occupied Crete in 1942 to help the Cretan Resistance, which in May 1944 resulted in the abduction of a German general. Leigh Fermor settled in

Greece in the 1960s, and lived there until his death in 2011. His books Roumeli: Travels in Northern Greece and Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese are

two of the best travel books in the English language. The talk is about his life and friends in Greece, and how much the country meant to him.

Mark Granelli brought this video to my attention and had this to say:

It is quite fascinating, and includes a beautiful extract from ‘Mani’ where Paddy is accompanied by dolphins on a ferry trip.

It focuses a lot on Paddy’s time in Crete.

The Q&A at the end turns up some personal information about Paddy and also references Olivia Manning and Fitzroy Maclean.

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2014 Stavros Niarchos Foundation Lecture at Yale University: "Patri…

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This entry was posted in An Adventure: Paddy's Biography by Artemis Cooper, Mani, Video and tagged Artemis Cooper on November 5, 2014

[http://patrickleighfermor.org/2014/11/05/2014-stavros-niarchos-foundation-lecture-at-yale-university-patrick-leigh-fermor-in-greece/] .

Salmagundi Magazine special feature on Patrick Leigh Fermor

I am grateful to Marc Woodworth for sending me this feature about Paddy posted in Salmagundi Magazine.

It includes excerpts from three essays:

Joanna Kavenna on memory and the past in A Time of Gifts

George Prochnik on Byzantium and style in Mani

Bina Gogineni on exoticism in The Traveller’s Tree

Plus exclusive online contributions from Nick Delbanco, Nick Delbanco, our very own Nick Hunt (Following Fermor in Romania)

and a Micro-Anthology selected by Michael Ondaatje, Thomas de Waal, Michael Gorra, Andrew Eames and photographs of Kövecses by Andrew Hillard.

Download the pdf here … salmagundi magazine

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Bradt Guide to the Peloponnese by Andrew Bostock

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This entry was posted in A Time of Gifts, Mani, Romania, The Traveller's Tree and tagged Andrew Eames, Andrew Hillard, Bina Gogineni, George Prochnik,

Joanna Kavenna, Michael Gorra, Michael Ondaatje, Nick Delbanco, Nick Hunt, Thomas de Waal on October 30, 2014

[http://patrickleighfermor.org/2014/10/30/salmagundi-magazine-special-feature-on-patrick-leigh-fermor/] .

Bradt Travel Guides’ revised version of Greece:The Peloponnese byAndrew Bostock

Continuing the Peloponnese travel theme it would be remiss of me not to mention that the nicepeople at Bradt have let Andrew Bostock update his excellent guide to the Peloponnese just in timefor your 2013 excursion. And rather like the paperback of An Adventure it shows a certain house. Ithink that Andy may have had some in�uence on this choice of cover!

Andy also gets in touch with me quite often, and it was he, working in close collaboration with that other

Karmayli expert, John Chapman, who first picked up on the filming of the movie Before Midnight at Paddy’s

house. Andy has lived in the area with his family so he is no fly-by-night travel guide author. I have a copy. I

know the Peloponnese pretty well having holidayed there on three occasions. There is a lot to see and it is by

no means all about the Mani, or Paddy. There is so much more. If you would like to get in touch directly with

Andy about travel to the area his details are here.

Andrew Bostock: +44 7961 061 052 (cell)

Twitter: @andybostock

You can buy Greece: The Peloponnese (Bradt Travel Guides) at this link, and the blurb tells us this:

The Peloponnese contains a huge diversity of landscape, everything from the classic image of Greece – white

sand beaches and sleepy white-washed villages through to the ancient sites of Olympia and Mycenae, Byzantine

churches and medieval fortresses; towering mountains for hiking and skiing, olive groves which produce the

쯁nest fruit, and mountains covered in ꭹ梷owers.

In recent months Greece has undergone a well-publicized economic meltdown. However cheaper prices and the

expense of long-haul tourism has actually led to an increase in visitor numbers. The government is keen to invest in tourism as a way to reinvigorate the country.

Speci쯁c examples of this are the new year-round ꭹ梷ights from Athens to Kalamata and a major new international spa / golf resort in Messinia.

Greece is no longer an ‘easy’ travel destination and there as been an increase in the trend towards independent travel, away from package tourism. The new

edition reꭹ梷ects this with reviews of the plentiful new accommodation, details of independent tours and activities as well as excellent coverage of o핵䵭-the-beaten-

track sites and attractions.

Greek expert, Andrew Bostock leads travellers to hidden villages, sophisticated towns, and to other top attractions – one of Europe’s most spectacular train

journeys and the tower houses of the famed Mani. He explores the lesser-known sites and attractions, including details of places not covered anywhere else. The

guide is packed with information on agritourism spots, eco-conscious boutique hotels, camping under the stars, rustic tavernas and locally grown produce.

Traditionally the tourist season in Greece is the summer, but this is fast changing, with savvy travelers discovering the wild ꭹ梷owers of spring, the joys of the olive

harvest in late autumn, and skiing opportunities during the winter. Bird life and marine life are also a huge attraction for visitors to the Peloponnese. The guide

also focuses on the colourful life of the traditional ‘paneyiri’ and those who still embrace the Greek spirit of ‘philoxenia’.

Related article:

The movie Before Midnight, featuring a certain house in a starring role

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Hellenic Post Church entrance of the monastery of St. John Holy place

Inside the monastery Monopati from the harbour to Chora Plateia of Chora

View over the island Chora of Patmos with the Monastery of St. John

This entry was posted in Mani and tagged Andrew Bostock, Bradt guides, Greece, Peloponnese on June 22, 2013

[http://patrickleighfermor.org/2013/06/22/6339/] .

Remote places and landscapes in Greece – Walks in the footsteps of PatrickLeigh Fermor: Part 10The last of Christian Peter’s walks. In my view you can’t go wrong if your walk involves visiting a monastery. I would like to thank Christian for all thework he put into this series. I am sure that he would welcome your feedback and comments in the Comments section below.

10 . Patmos

One of the most impressive and intense places in Greece for me is the atrium of the Monastery Agios Ioannis o Theologos in Patmos . The Monastery of St. John

the Divine is a fortified Orthodox monastery dominating the highest part of the Chora of the island. It was and continues to be one of the most important

monasteries in Greece. Its interior is like a muli-leveled building complex with interior courtyards, colonnades and narrow corridors. From time to time Paddy

used to live in monasteries for a while. In the introduction of his monastery-book “A Time to Keep Silence“ (1957) he describes longer visits to Wandrille de

Fontanelle, La Grande Trappe and the monasteries of Cappadocia, but also mentions that he has visited all the important monasteries of the Greek word. You

can about his visits to Mount Athos and monasteries of Meteora, and I am pretty sure he has been to Patmos.

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This entry was posted in In Paddy's Footsteps, Mani, Roumeli on June 2, 2013 [http://patrickleighfermor.org/2013/06/02/remote-places-and-landscapes-in-

greece-walks-in-the-footsteps-of-patrick-leigh-fermor-part-10/] .

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Chora Old style-house in Exo Vathy

Remote places and landscapes in Greece – Walks in the footsteps of PatrickLeigh Fermor: Part 9The ninth of Christian Peter’s walks and still in the Dodecanese.

9. Astypalaia /Dodecanese

Situated between the Cyclades and the Dodecanese the “forgotten” island of Astypalaia is even today calm and traditional. Having the form of a butterfly a

small band of land of only 200 meters separates the island into two sections: Exo Nisi and Mesa Nisi. A day-long hike over the entire island starting in Chora (

Exo Nisi) brings you to the remote, almost abandoned village of Exo Vathy (Mesa Nisi). Only a few people live here leading a very simple and traditional island

life as fisherman and farmer. One old couple runs a tavern.

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This entry was posted in In Paddy's Footsteps, Mani, Roumeli and tagged Christian Peters, Greece on May 19, 2013

[http://patrickleighfermor.org/2013/05/19/remote-places-and-landscapes-in-greece-walks-in-the-footsteps-of-patrick-leigh-fermor-part-9/] .

Remote places and landscapes in Greece – Walks in the footsteps of PatrickLeigh Fermor: Part 8The eighth of Christian Peter’s walks.

8. The “Italian Road” from Pothia to Vathi – Kalymnos

Paddy must have widely been travelling the Dodecanese, as he was so obsessed by pebbelstone mosaics. The islands of the Dodecanese offer a great variety of

fantastic pebblestone mosaics. Nearly every old church has one and the Kalymnian capital of Pothia has one of the largest and most beautiful. Recently

Kalymnos became a world class destination for rock climbers, but there are a number of wonderful walks on the island, too. The best known one is the walk on

the old Italian Road (Italikós drómos) from the vibrant city of Pothia into the fertile valley of Vathys. Those who really want to follow Paddy’s footsteps should

visit Kalymnos for Easter celebrations. What you will find to happen in the streets of and on the mountains around Pothia on those days is really Paddy-like:

The local people like to celecrate the holy days with dynamite, this is why during those days people tend to call their island the “Aegean Afghanistan”.

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Paddy’s obsession – Pebblestone mosaics O Italik+¦s dr+¦mos Kalymnian sponges

Dodekanes – Homeland of the mosaics In between Pothia and Vathys (summer) The valley of Vathys

The hidden harbour of Rina The Fjord of Rhina Rina

Pothia – Capital of Kalymnos

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This entry was posted in In Paddy's Footsteps, Mani, Roumeli and tagged Christian Peters, Greece on May 5, 2013

[http://patrickleighfermor.org/2013/05/05/remote-places-and-landscapes-in-greece-walks-in-the-footsteps-of-patrick-leigh-fermor-part-8/] .

Remote places and landscapes in Greece – Walks in the footsteps of PatrickLeigh Fermor: Part 7Back to Crete for the seventh walk in Christian Peter’s series.

7. From Sougia to Agia Roumeli – Crete

a. One of the wildest and most difficult walks on Crete is the one along the coastline between Sougia and Agia Roumeli. But it is rewarding as it offers not

only a great variety of natural beauties, but also access to the Gorge of Tripiti which as “a clandestine landing point for the whole of the area” played a major

role during the occupation. In his book “The Stronghold” Xan Fielding describes it as “a needle-narrow opening in the littoral ramparts, which travelers until

recently believed to be inaccessible except by sea” (p. 55). The Tripiti gorge marks the border between the provinces of Selino and Sfakiá and offers insights

into the “highland labyrinth” above Koustogerako which during WW II “was probably the only habitable area in the whole of Crete which could have sheltered in

safety such a vast clandestine concourse as ours had been (Xan Fielding; Hide and Seek, p. 167).

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Patrick Leigh Fermor Blog at WordPress.com. The Twenty Twelve Theme.

Agia Roumeli two hours to go Impressive beach of Domata

Pro쯁tis Ilias at Pikilassos Tripiti – Secret landing beach

Tripiti -needle narrow opening in the littoral ramparts Village of Sougia

Highland labyrinth above Koustgerako

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This entry was posted in In Paddy's Footsteps, Mani, Roumeli and tagged Christian Peters, Crete, Greece, Patrick Leigh Fermor on April 21, 2013

[http://patrickleighfermor.org/2013/04/21/remote-places-and-landscapes-in-greece-walks-in-the-footsteps-of-patrick-leigh-fermor-part-7/] .

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