Maneaters of Tsavo

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TheProjectGutenbergEBookofTheMan-eatersofTsavoandOtherEastAfricanAdventures,byJ.H.Patterson

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Title:TheMan-eatersofTsavoandOtherEastAfricanAdventures

Author:J.H.Patterson

PostingDate:May28,2009[EBook#3810]ReleaseDate:March,2003FirstPosted:September19,2001

Language:English

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ProducedbyCharlesHall.HTMLversionbyAlHaines.

THEMAN-EATERSOFTSAVOANDOtherEastAfricanAdventures

BY

Lieut.-Col.J.H.Patterson,D.S.O.

WITHAFOREWORDBYFREDERICKCOURTENEYSELOUS

WITHILLUSTRATIONS

PREFACE

ItiswithfeelingsofthegreatestdiffidencethatIplacethefollowingpagesbeforethepublic;butthoseofmyfriendswhohappen



tohaveheardofmyratheruniqueexperiencesinthewildshavesooftenurgedmetowriteanaccountofmyadventures,thataftermuchhesitationIatlastdeterminedtodoso.

Ihavenodoubtthatmanyofmyreaders,whohaveperhapsneverbeenveryfarawayfromcivilisation,willbeinclinedtothinkthatsomeoftheincidentsareexaggerated.IcanonlyassurethemthatIhavetoneddownthefactsratherthanotherwise,andhaveendeavouredtowriteaperfectlyplainandstraightforwardaccountofthingsastheyactuallyhappened.

Itmustberememberedthatatthetimetheseeventsoccurred,theconditionsprevailinginBritishEastAfricawereverydifferentfromwhattheyareto-day.Therailway,whichhasmodernisedtheaspectoftheplaceandbroughtcivilisationinitstrain,wasthenonlyinprocessofconstruction,andthecountrythroughwhichitwasbeingbuiltwasstillinitsprimitivesavagestate,asindeed,awayfromtherailway,itstillis.

Ifthissimpleaccountoftwoyears'workandplayinthewildsshouldproveofanyinterest,orhelpeveninasmallwaytocallattentiontothebeautifulandvaluablecountrywhichwepossessontheEquator,IshallfeelmorethancompensatedforthetroubleIhavetakeninwritingit.

IammuchindebtedtotheHon.Mrs.CyrilWard,SirGuilfordMolesworth,K.C.I.E.,Mr.T.J.SpoonerandMrC.Rawsonfortheirkindnessinallowingmetoreproducephotographstakenbythem.MywarmestthanksarealsoduetothatveteranpioneerofAfrica,Mr.F.C.Selous,forgivingmylittlebooksokindlyanintroductiontothepublicasisprovidedbythe"Foreword"whichhehasbeengoodenoughtowrite.

J.H.P.August,1907.

FOREWORD

ItwassomesevenoreightyearsagothatIfirstread,inthepagesofTheFieldnewspaper,abriefaccountwrittenbyCol.J.H.Patterson,thenanengineerengagedontheconstructionoftheUgandaRailway,oftheTsavoman-eatinglions.

MyownlongexperienceofAfricanhuntingtoldmeatoncethateverywordinthisthrillingnarrativewasabsolutelytrue.Naymore:Iknewthattheauthorhadtoldhisstoryinamostmodestmanner,layingbut

littlestressonthedangershehadrunwhensittingupatnightstotryandcompassthedeathoftheterribleman-eaters,especiallyonthatoneoccasionwhenwhilstwatchingfromaverylightscaffolding,supportedonlybyfourricketypoles,hewashimselfstalkedbyoneofthedreadbeasts.Fortunatelyhedidnotlosehisnerve,andsucceededinshootingthelion,justwhenitwasonthepointofspringinguponhim.Buthadthislionapproachedhimfrombehind,IthinkitwouldprobablyhaveaddedCol.Pattersontoitslonglistofvictims,forinmyownexperienceIhaveknownofthreeinstancesofmenhavingbeenpulledfromtreesorhutsbuiltonplatformsatagreaterheightfrom



thegroundthanthecrazystructureonwhichCol.Pattersonwaswatchingonthatnightofterrors.

FromthetimeofHerodotusuntilto-day,lionstoriesinnumerablehavebeentoldandwritten.Ihaveputsomeonrecordmyself.ButnolionstoryIhaveeverheardorreadequalsinitslong-sustainedanddramaticinterestthestoryoftheTsavoman-eatersastoldbyCol.Patterson.Alionstoryisusuallyataleofadventures,oftenveryterribleandpathetic,whichoccupiedbutafewhoursofonenight;butthetaleoftheTsavoman-eatersisanepicofterribletragediesspreadoutoverseveralmonths,andonlyatlastbroughttoanendbytheresourceanddeterminationofoneman.

ItwassomeyearsafterIreadthefirstaccountpublishedoftheTsavoman-eatersthatImadetheacquaintanceofPresidentRoosevelt.ItoldhimallIrememberedaboutit,andhewassodeeplyinterestedinthestory--asheisinalltruestoriesofthenatureandcharacteristicsofwildanimals--thathebeggedmetosendhimtheshortprintedaccountaspublishedinTheField.ThisIdid;anditwasonlyinthelastletterIreceivedfromhimthat,referringtothisstory,PresidentRooseveltwrote:"IthinkthattheincidentoftheUgandaman-eatinglions,describedinthosetwoarticlesyousentme,isthemostremarkableaccountofwhichwehaveanyrecord.Itisagreatpitythatitshouldnotbepreservedinpermanentform."Well,Iamnowglad

tothinkthatitwillbepreservedinpermanentform;andIventuretoassureCol.PattersonthatPresidentRooseveltwillbeamongstthemostinterestedreadersofhisbook.

ItisprobablethatthechaptersrecountingthestoryoftheTsavoman-eatinglionswillbefoundmoreabsorbingthantheotherportionsofCol.Patterson'sbook;butIthinkthatmostofhisreaderswillagreewithmethatthewholevolumeisfullofinterestandinformation.TheaccountgivenbyCol.PattersonofhowheovercameallthedifficultieswhichconfrontedhiminbuildingastrongandpermanentrailwaybridgeacrosstheTsavorivermakesexcellentreading;whilstthecouragehedisplayedinattacking,single-handed,lions,rhinocerosesandotherdangerousanimalswassurpassedbythe

pluck,tactanddeterminationheshowedinquellingtheformidablemutinywhichoncebrokeoutamongsthisnativeIndianworkers.

Finally,letmesaythatIhavespentthebestpartoftwonightsreadingtheproof-sheetsofCol.Patterson'sbook,andIcanassurehimthatthetimepassedlikemagic.Myinterestwasheldfromthefirstpagetothelast,forIfeltthateverywordIreadwastrue.

F.C.SELOUS.WORPLESDON,SURREY.September18,1907.

CONTENTS

CHAPTERIMYARRIVALATTSAVO1



CHAPTERIITHEFIRSTAPPEARANCEOFTHEMAN-EATERS20CHAPTERIIITHEATTACKONTHEGOODS-WAGON29CHAPTERIVTHEBUILDINGOFTHETSAVOBRIDGE41CHAPTERVTROUBLESWITHTHEWORKMEN50CHAPTERVITHEREIGNOFTERROR61CHAPTERVIITHEDISTRICTOFFICER'SNARROWESCAPE75CHAPTERVIIITHEDEATHOFTHEFIRSTMAN-EATER84CHAPTERIXTHEDEATHOFTHESECONDMAN-EATER95CHAPTERXTHECOMPLETIONOFTHETSAVOBRIDGE108CHAPTERXITHESWAHILIANDOTHERNATIVETRIBES119CHAPTERXIIANIGHTAFTERHIPPO133CHAPTERXIIIADAYONTHEN'DUNGUESCARPMENT145CHAPTERXIVTHEFINDINGOFTHEMAN-EATERS'DEN155CHAPTERXVUNSUCCESSFULRHINOHUNTS168CHAPTERXVIAWIDOW'SSTORY176CHAPTERXVIIANINFURIATEDRHINO182CHAPTERXVIIILIONSONTHEATHIPLAINS193CHAPTERXIXTHESTRICKENCARAVAN210CHAPTERXXADAYONTHEATHIRIVER221CHAPTERXXITHEMASAIANDOTHERTRIBES231CHAPTERXXIIHOWROSHANKHANSAVEDMYLIFE247CHAPTERXXIIIASUCCESSFULLIONHUNT264CHAPTERXXIVBHOOTA'SLASTSHIKAR273CHAPTERXXVAMAN-EATERINARAILWAYCARRIAGE286

CHAPTERXXVIWORKATNAIROBI293CHAPTERXXVIITHEFINDINGOFTHENEWELAND300APPENDIX323

LISTOFILLUSTRATIONS

HeadsofEightLionsshotbytheAuthorinBritishEastAfricaFrontispiece

Mombasa,fromtheHarbour1TheNativeQuarter,Mombasa2"Well-woodedhillsandslopesonthemainland"3VascodaGamaStreetandPillar5"Thebestwaytogetthree...wasbygharri6"Ipitchedmytentundersomeshadypalms"7"Kilindiniisontheoppositesideoftheisland"10"ThePlaceofDeepWaters"11"Aluckyshotbroughtdownthehugebird"14"Isleptthatnightinalittlepalmhut"15"Thisinterminablenyika"17"Therivercrossedbymeansofatemporarybridge"18WomenofUganda19

ThetentfromwhichjemadarUnganSinghwascarriedoff23"Myowntentwaspitchedinanopenclearing"29"Wesharedahutofpalmleavesandboughs"30"Thecampsoftheworkmenhadalsobeensurroundedbythornfences"31"RailheadCamp,withitstwoorthreethousandworkmen"33"Thetwowoundedcoolieswereleftwheretheylay,apieceoftorntenthavingfallenoverthem"35"Aluncheonservedinthewilds,withoccasionallyafriendtoshareit"43



"Itverysoonbecameagreatpet"46"HeeraSinghmadeawildspringintothewatertogetclearofthefallingstone"47"Thedoorwhichwastoadmitthelion"62"Whenthetrapwasready,Ipitchedatentoverit"64"Theyfoundhimstuckfastinthebushesoftheboma"70"Perchedonthetopofwater-tanks"73"Itookupmypositioninacribmadeofsleepers"77WhiteheadonaTrolleyattheexactspotwheretheLionjumpeduponhim79AbdullahandhistwoWives80ApartyofWaJamousi83"Hislengthfromtipofnosetotipoftailwasninefeeteightinches"92HeadofthefirstMan-Eater93"ThefollowingeveningItookupmypositioninthissametree"100"Hemeasuredninefeetsixinchesfromtipofnosetotipoftail,andstoodthreefeetelevenandahalfincheshigh"103"ThebridgeovertheTsavorapidlynearedcompletion"108"Theheavystoneswereswungintoposition"109"Thegirderwasrunoveritsexactplace"110"Andfinallyloweredgentlyintoposition"111"VerysoonIhadthesatisfactionofseeingthefirsttrain

crossthefinishedwork"112ThecompletedTsavobridge113OneoftheTrolleyLinesaftertheFlood114SwahiliCaravanPorters120"Suchwasmycook,Mabruki"122Thewomen...wearalong,brightly-colouredcloth"123"Thewomenattirethemselvesonlyinashortkilt"125"WearrivedatM'Gogo'scapital"126"Makingpombeinthehollowed-outstumpofatree"127WaTaitaMen129M'KambaWoman131"UntilitjoinstheAthiRiver"136"ThebanksoftheSabakiarelinedwithtrees"138

"Icaughtsightofafinewaterbuckandsuccessfullybowledhimover"146"Ayoungonewaslyingdowninthegrassquiteclosetome"147AcrocodileontheSabaki153"Beyondalldoubt,theman-eaters'den!"158"Watchtheanimalscomedowntodrink"161"Theantelopeswingingbyhisfeet"165HippoHead167"Slaveschainednecktoneckaswasthecustom"174HospitalTentatVoiwhereMrs.O'Hararested178IntheBazaaratKampala181"ThegreatAthiPlains"182"Firsttheearthsurfacehastobeprepared"184

"Cuttingshavetobemadeandhollowsbankedup"185"Anothergangdropstherailsintheirplaces"187"Itnevermovedagain"190"ThetrophywaswellworththepainsIhadtakentoaddittomycollection"191Jackson'sHartebeeste,andZebra194Waterbuck195"Fortunatelythebrutefelldeadafterthisfinaleffort"201"Wemanagedtobringthemintriumphtothecamp"214"Igotnearenoughforasafeshot,whichbowledthe



antelopeoverstone-dead"218Wart-hog220"Asuccessfulsnapshotofanimpalajustafterithadbeenshot"228AMasaiChief232MasaiWarriors233MasaiWoman234MasaiGirls235MasaiWomen237N'derobboBoy239N'derobboBoy,withCollabusMonkey240N'derobboGirl241WaKikuyu244"ThewomenoftheWaKikuyucarrytheheavyloads"245"Spooner'spluckyservant,ImamDin"281ACollectionofTrophies285Hewaskeptonviewforseveraldays,andthenshot291Impala292"Itookaphotographofhimstandingresidehisfinetrophy"295"Succeededinfinishinghimoffwithoutfurthertrouble"297SteamerunloadingatKisumu,onLakeVictoriaNyanza299TheGrandFalls,TanaRiver300Shimone,"ThePlaceofFallingWater"(EldamaRavine)301Oryx302RoanAntelope303

"Anexcellent,cheeryfellow...namedLandaalu"304CrossingaStreamontheCook'sBox305CrossingtheAngaruaRiver307Reedbuck309TheNewEland--T.oryxpattersonianus316Thomson'sGazelle321WarCanoeonLakeVictoriaNyanza,neartheRiponFalls325PreparingBreakfastinCamp326ViewintheKenyaProvince331"AflyingvisitinarickshawtoKampala"332"Cladinlongflowingcottongarments"333Jinja334"RushingovertheRiponFalls"335

"Themightyriverstretchingawaytothenorthamidenchantingscenery"337WaKikuyuWarriors346MapofBritishEastAfrica347FacsimileofaddresspresentedtotheauthoronhisdeparturefromEastAfricain1899348-351

THEMAN-EATERSOFTSAVO

CHAPTERI

MYARRIVALATTSAVO

ItwastowardsnoononMarch1,1898,thatIfirstfoundmyselfenteringthenarrowandsomewhatdangerousharbourofMombasa,ontheeastcoastofAfrica.Thetownliesonanislandofthesamename,



separatedfromthemainlandonlybyaverynarrowchannel,whichformstheharbour;andasourvesselsteamedslowlyin,closeunderthequaintoldPortuguesefortressbuiltoverthreehundredyearsago,Iwasmuchstruckwiththestrangebeautyoftheviewwhichgraduallyopenedoutbeforeme.Contrarytomyanticipation,everythinglookedfreshandgreen,andanorientalglamourofenchantmentseemedtohangovertheisland.Theoldtownwasbathedinbrilliantsunshineandreflecteditselflazilyonthemotionlesssea;itsflatroofsanddazzlinglywhitewallspeepedoutdreamilybetweenwavingpalmsandloftycocoanuts,hugebaobabsandspreadingmangotrees;andthedarkerbackgroundofwell-woodedhillsandslopesonthemainlandformedaveryeffectivesettingtoabeautifuland,tome,unexpectedpicture.

TheharbourwasplentifullysprinkledwithArabdhows,insomeofwhich,Ibelieve,evenatthepresentday,afewslavesareoccasionallysmuggledofftoPersiaandArabia.Ithasalwaysbeenamatterofgreatwondertomehowthenavigatorsoflittlevesselsfindtheirwayfromporttoport,astheydo,withouttheaidofeithercompassorsextant,andhowtheymanagetoweathertheterriblestormsthatatcertainseasonsoftheyearsuddenlyvisiteasternseas.IrememberoncecomingacrossadhowbecalmedinthemiddleoftheIndianOcean,anditscrewmakingsignalsofdistress,ourcaptainsloweddowntoinvestigate.Therewerefourmenonboard,allnearlydeadfromthirst;theyhadbeenwithoutdrinkofanykindforseveraldaysand

hadcompletelylosttheirbearings.Aftergivingthemsomecasksofwater,wedirectedthemtoMuscat(theporttheywishedtomake),andourvesselresumeditsjourney,leavingthemstillbecalmedinthemidstofthatglassysea.WhethertheymanagedtoreachtheirdestinationIneverknew.

Asoursteamermadeitswaytoitsanchorage,theromanticsurroundingsoftheharbourofMombasaconjuredup,visionsofstirringadventuresofthepast,andrecalledtomymindthemanytalesofrecklessdoingsofpiratesandslavers,whichasaboyithadbeenmydelighttoread.Irememberedthatitwasatthisveryplacethatin1498thegreatVascodaGamanearlylosthisshipandlifethroughthetreacheryofhisArabpilot,whoplottedtowreckthevesselonthereefwhichbars

morethanhalftheentrancetotheharbour.Luckily,thisnefariousdesignwasdiscoveredintime,andtheboldnavigatorpromptlyhangedthepilot,andwouldalsohavesackedthetownbutforthetimelysubmissionandapologiesoftheSultan.IntheprincipalstreetofMombasa--appropriatelycalledVascodaGamaStreet--therestillstandsacuriouslyshapedpillarwhichissaidtohavebeenerectedbythisgreatseamanincommemorationofhisvisit.

Scarcelyhadtheanchorbeendropped,when,asifbymagic,ourvesselwassurroundedbyafleetofsmallboatsand"dug-outs"mannedbycrowdsofshoutingandgesticulatingnatives.AfterashortfightbetweensomerivalSwahiliboatmenformybaggageandperson,Ifoundmyselfbeingvigorouslyrowedtothefootofthelandingstepsbythe

bahareen(sailors)whohadbeensuccessfulintheencounter.Now,myobjectincomingouttoEastAfricaatthistimewastotakeupapositiontowhichIhadbeenappointedbytheForeignOfficeontheconstructionstaffoftheUgandaRailway.AssoonasIlanded,therefore,IenquiredfromoneoftheCustomsofficialswheretheheadquartersoftherailwayweretobefound,andwastoldthattheywereataplacecalledKilindini,somethreemilesaway,ontheothersideoftheisland.Thebestwaytogetthere,Iwasfurtherinformed,wasbygharri,whichIfoundtobeasmalltrolley,havingtwoseatsplacedbacktobackunderalittlecanopyandrunningonnarrowrails



whicharelaidthroughtheprincipalstreetofthetown.Accordingly,Isecuredoneofthesevehicles,whicharepushedbytwostrappingSwahiliboys,andwassoonflyingdownthetrack,whichonceoutsidethetownlayforthemostpartthroughdensegrovesofmango,baobab,bananaandpalmtrees,withhereandtherebrilliantlycolouredcreepershanginginluxuriantfestoonsfromthebranches.

OnarrivalatKilindini,ImademywaytotherailwayOfficesandwasinformedthatIshouldbestationedinlandandshouldreceivefurtherinstructionsinthecourseofadayortwo.MeanwhileIpitchedmytentundersomeshadypalmsnearthegharriline,andbusiedmyselfinexploringtheislandandinprocuringthestoresandtheoutfitnecessaryforalengthysojournup-country.ThetownofMombasaitselfnaturallyoccupiedmostofmyattention.ItissupposedtohavebeenfoundedaboutA.D.1000,butthediscoveryofancientEgyptianidols,andofcoinsoftheearlyPersianandChinesedynasties,goestoshowthatitmustatdifferentageshavebeensettledbypeopleoftheveryearliestcivilisations.Comingtomoremoderntimes,itwasheldonandofffrom1505to1729bythePortuguese,apermanentmemorialofwhoseoccupationremainsintheshapeofthegrimoldfortress,builtabout1593--onthesite,itisbelieved,ofastillolderstronghold.Theseenterprisingsea-roverspiouslynamedit"JesusFort,"andaninscriptionrecordingthisisstilltobeseenoverthemainentrance.ThePortugueseoccupationofMombasawas,however,notwithoutits

vicissitudes.FromMarch15,1696,forexample,thetownwasbesiegedforthirty-threeconsecutivemonthsbyalargefleetofArabdhows,whichcompletelysurroundedtheisland.Inspiteofplague,treacheryandfamine,thelittlegarrisonheldoutvaliantlyinJesusFort,towhichtheyhadbeenforcedtoretire,untilDecember12,1698,whentheArabsmadealastdeterminedattackandcapturedthecitadel,puttingtheremnantofthedefenders,bothmenandwomen,tothesword.ItispathetictoreadthatonlytwodayslateralargePortuguesefleetappearedofftheharbour,bringingthelong-looked-forreinforcements.AfterthisthePortuguesemadeseveralattemptstoreconquerMombasa,butwereunsuccessfuluntil1728,whenthetownwasstormedandcapturedbyGeneralSampayo.TheArabs,however,returnedthenextyearinoverwhelmingnumbers,andagaindrovethePortugueseout;and

althoughthelattermadeonemoreattemptin1769toregaintheirsupremacy,theydidnotsucceed.

TheArabs,asrepresentedbytheSultanofZanzibar,remaininnominalpossessionofMombasatothepresentday;butin1887SeyidBargash,thethenSultanofZanzibar,gaveforanannualrentalaconcessionofhismainlandterritoriestotheBritishEastAfricaAssociation,whichin1888wasformedintotheImperialBritishEastAfricaCompany.In1895theForeignOfficetookovercontroloftheCompany'spossessions,andaProtectoratewasproclaimed;andtenyearslatertheadministrationofthecountrywastransferredtotheColonialOffice.

Thelastseriousfightingontheislandtookplacesorecentlyas

1895-6,whenaSwahilichiefnamedM'barukbinRashed,whohadthreetimespreviouslyriseninrebellionagainsttheSultanofZanzibar,attemptedtodefytheBritishandtothrowofftheiryoke.Hewasdefeatedonseveraloccasions,however,andwasfinallyforcedtofleesouthwardsintoGermanterritory.Altogether,MombasahasinthepastwelldeserveditsnativenameofKisiwaM'vitaa,or"IsleofWar";butunderthesettledrulenowobtaining,itisrapidlybecomingathrivingandprosperoustown,andastheportofentryforUganda,itdoesalargeforwardingtradewiththeinteriorandhasseveralexcellentstoreswherealmostanything,fromaneedletoananchor,mayreadily



beobtained.

Kilindiniis,asIhavesaid,ontheoppositesideoftheisland,andasitsname--"theplaceofdeepwaters"--implies,hasamuchfinerharbourthanthatpossessedbyMombasa.Thechannelbetweentheislandandthemainlandisherecapableofgivingcommodiousandsafeanchoragetotheverylargestvessels,andasthejettyisdirectlyconnectedwiththeUgandaRailway,Kilindinihasnowreallybecometheprincipalport,beingalwaysusedbythelinersandheaviervessels.

IhadspentnearlyaweekinMombasa,andwasbecomingveryanxioustogetmymarchingorders,whenonemorningIwasdelightedtoreceiveanofficialletterinstructingmetoproceedtoTsavo,aboutonehundredandthirty-twomilesfromthecoast,andtotakechargeoftheconstructionofthesectionofthelineatthatplace,whichhadjustthenbeenreachedbyrailhead.IaccordinglystartedatdaylightnextmorninginaspecialtrainwithMr.Anderson,theSuperintendentofWorks,andDr.McCulloch,theprincipalMedicalOfficer;andasthecountrywasineverywaynewtome,Ifoundthejourneyamostinterestingone.

TheislandofMombasaisseparatedfromthemainlandbytheStraitofMacupa,andtherailwaycrossesthisbyabridgeaboutthree-quartersofamilelong,calledtheSalisburyBridge,inhonourofthegreat

MinisterforForeignAffairsunderwhosedirectiontheUgandaRailwayschemewasundertaken.Fortwentymilesafterreachingthemainland,ourtrainwoundsteadilyupwardsthroughbeautifullywooded,park-likecountry,andonlookingbackoutofthecarriagewindowswecouldeverynowandagainobtainlovelyviewsofMombasaandKilindini,whilebeyondthesetheIndianOceansparkledintheglorioussunshineasfarastheeyecouldsee.ThesummitoftheRabaiHillshavingbeenreached,weenteredontheexpanseoftheTaruDesert,awildernesscoveredwithpoorscrubandstuntedtrees,andcarpetedinthedryseasonwithalayeroffinereddust.Thisdustisofamostpenetratingcharacter,andfindsitswayintoeverythinginthecarriageasthetrainpassesalong.Fromhereonwardgameismoreorlessplentiful,buttheanimalsareverydifficulttoseeowingtothe

thickundergrowthinwhichtheyhidethemselves.Wemanaged,however,tocatchsightofafewfromthecarriagewindows,andalsonoticedsomeofthenatives,theWaNyika,or"childrenofthewilderness."

AtMaungu,someeightymilesfromthecoast,wecametotheendofthis"desert,"butalmosttheonlydifferencetobenoticedinthecharacterofthecountrywasthatthecolourofthedusthadchanged.Asourtrainspedonwardsthroughtheleveluplandswesawafineostrichstridingalongparallelwiththeline,asifhavingaracewithus.Dr.McCullochatonceseizedhisrifleandbyaluckyshotbroughtdownthehugebird;thenextandgreaterdifficulty,however,wastosecuretheprize.Foratimetheengine-drivertooknonoticeofoursignalsandshouts,butatlastwesucceededinattractinghisattention,andthe

trainwasshuntedbacktowheretheostrichhadfallen.Wefoundittobeanexceptionallyfinespecimen,andhadtoexertallourstrengthtodragitonboardthetrain.

SoonafterthiswereachedVoi,aboutahundredmilesfromthecoast,andasthiswasthemostimportantstationonthelinethatwehadyetcometo,wemadeashorthaltinordertoinspectsomeconstructionworkwhichwasgoingon.Onresumingourjourney,wesoondiscoveredthatapleasantchangehadoccurredinthecharacterofthelandscape.FromaplacecalledN'dii,therailwayrunsforsomemilesthrougha



beautifullywoodedcountry,whichlookedallthemoreinvitingafterthedeadlymonotonyofthewildernessthroughwhichwehadjustpassed.TothesouthofuscouldbeseentheN'diirangeofmountains,thedwelling-placeoftheWaTaitapeople,whileonourrightrosetherigidbrowoftheN'dunguEscarpment,whichstretchesawaywestwardsforscoresofmiles.Hereourjourneywasslow,aseverynowandagainwestoppedtoinspectthepermanentworksinprogress;buteventually,towardsdusk,wearrivedatourdestination,Tsavo.Isleptthatnightinalittlepalmhutwhichhadbeenbuiltbysomeprevioustraveller,andwhichwasfortunatelyunoccupiedforthetimebeing.Itwasratherbroken-downanddilapidated,notevenpossessingadoor,andasIlayonmynarrowcampbedIcouldseethestarstwinklingthroughtheroof.Ilittleknewthenwhatadventuresawaitedmeinthisneighbourhood;andifIhadrealisedthatatthatverytimetwosavagebruteswereprowlinground,seekingwhomtheymightdevour,IhardlythinkIshouldhavesleptsopeacefullyinmyricketyshelter.

NextmorningIwasupbetimes,eagertomakeacquaintancewithmynewsurroundings.MyfirstimpressiononcomingoutofmyhutwasthatIwashemmedinonallsidesbyadensegrowthofimpenetrablejungle:andonscramblingtothetopofalittlehillcloseathand,IfoundthatthewholecountryasfarasIcouldseewascoveredwithlow,stuntedtrees,thickundergrowthand"wait-a-bit"thorns.Theonlyclearing,indeed,appearedtobewherethenarrowtrackfortherailway

hadbeencut.Thisinterminablenyika,orwildernessofwhitishandleaflessdwarftrees,presentedaghastlyandsun-strickenappearance;andhereandtherearidgeofdark-redheat-blisteredrockjuttedoutabovethejungle,andaddedbyitsruggedbarrennesstothedrearinessofthepicture.Awaytothenorth-eaststretchedtheunbrokenlineoftheN'dunguEscarpment,whilefarofftothesouthIcouldjustcatchaglimpseofthesnow-cappedtopoftoweringKilimaN'jaro.TheoneredeemingfeatureoftheneighbourhoodwastheriverfromwhichTsavotakesitsname.Thisisaswiftly-flowingstream,alwayscoolandalwaysrunning,thelatterbeinganexceptionalattributeinthispartofEastAfrica;andthefringeofloftygreentreesalongitsbanksformedawelcomerelieftothegeneralmonotonyofthelandscape.

WhenIhadthusobtainedaroughideaoftheneighbourhood,Ireturnedtomyhut,andbeganinearnesttomakepreparationsformystayinthisout-of-the-wayplace.Thestoreswereunpacked,andmy"boys"pitchedmytentinalittleclearingclosetowhereIhadsleptthenightbeforeandnotfarfromthemaincampoftheworkmen.Railheadhadatthistimejustreachedthewesternsideoftheriver,andsomethousandsofIndiancooliesandotherworkmenwereencampedthere.Asthelinehadtobepushedonwithallspeed,adiversionhadbeenmadeandtherivercrossedbymeansofatemporarybridge.Myprincipalworkwastoerectthepermanentstructure,andtocompletealltheotherworksforadistanceofthirtymilesoneachsideofTsavo.Iaccordinglymadeasurveyofwhathadtobedone,andsentmyrequisitionforlabour,toolsandmaterialtothehead-quartersat

Kilindini.Inashorttimeworkmenandsuppliescamepouringin,andthenoiseofhammersandsledges,drillingandblastingechoedmerrilythroughthedistrict.

CHAPTERII

THEFIRSTAPPEARANCEOFTHEMAN-EATERS



Unfortunatelythishappystateofaffairsdidnotcontinueforlong,andourworkwassooninterruptedinarudeandstartlingmanner.Twomostvoraciousandinsatiableman-eatinglionsappeareduponthescene,andforoverninemonthswagedanintermittentwarfareagainsttherailwayandallthoseconnectedwithitinthevicinityofTsavo.ThisculminatedinaperfectreignofterrorinDecember,1898,whentheyactuallysucceededinbringingtherailwayworkstoacompletestandstillforaboutthreeweeks.Atfirsttheywerenotalwayssuccessfulintheireffortstocarryoffavictim,butastimewentontheystoppedatnothingandindeedbravedanydangerinordertoobtaintheirfavouritefood.Theirmethodsthenbecamesouncanny,andtheirman-stalkingsowell-timedandsocertainofsuccess,thattheworkmenfirmlybelievedthattheywerenotrealanimalsatall,butdevilsinlions'shape.Manyatimethecooliessolemnlyassuredmethatitwasabsolutelyuselesstoattempttoshootthem.Theywerequiteconvincedthattheangryspiritsoftwodepartednativechiefshadtakenthisforminordertoprotestagainstarailwaybeingmadethroughtheircountry,andbystoppingitsprogresstoavengetheinsultthusshowntothem.

IhadonlybeenafewdaysatTsavowhenIfirstheardthatthesebruteshadbeenseenintheneighbourhood.Shortlyafterwardsoneor

twocooliesmysteriouslydisappeared,andIwastoldthattheyhadbeencarriedoffbynightfromtheirtentsanddevouredbylions.AtthetimeIdidnotcreditthisstory,andwasmoreinclinedtobelievethattheunfortunatemenhadbeenthevictimsoffoulplayatthehandsofsomeoftheircomrades.Theywere,asithappened,verygoodworkmen,andhadeachsavedafairnumberofrupees,soIthoughtitquitelikelythatsomescoundrelsfromthegangshadmurderedthemforthesakeoftheirmoney.Thissuspicion,however,wasverysoondispelled.Aboutthreeweeksaftermyarrival,Iwasrousedonemorningaboutdaybreakandtoldthatoneofmyjemadars,afinepowerfulSikhnamedUnganSingh,hadbeenseizedinhistentduringthenight,anddraggedoffandeaten.

NaturallyIlostnotimeinmakinganexaminationoftheplace,andwassoonconvincedthatthemanhadindeedbeencarriedoffbyalion,asits"pug"markswereplainlyvisibleinthesand,whilethefurrowsmadebytheheelsofthevictimshowedthedirectioninwhichhehadbeendraggedaway.Moreover,thejemadarsharedhistentwithhalfadozenotherworkmen,andoneofhisbedfellowshadactuallywitnessedtheoccurrence.Hegraphicallydescribedhow,ataboutmidnight,thelionsuddenlyputitsheadinattheopententdoorandseizedUnganSingh--whohappenedtobenearesttheopening--bythethroat.Theunfortunatefellowcriedout"Choro"("Letgo"),andthrewhisarmsuproundthelion'sneck.Thenextmomenthewasgone,andhispanic-strickencompanionslayhelpless,forcedtolistentotheterriblestrugglewhichtookplaceoutside.PoorUnganSinghmusthave

diedhard;butwhatchancehadhe?Asacooliegravelyremarked,"Washenotfightingwithalion?"

OnhearingthisdreadfulstoryIatoncesetouttotrytotracktheanimal,andwasaccompaniedbyCaptainHaslem,whohappenedtobestayingatTsavoatthetime,andwho,poorfellow,himselfmetwithatragicfateveryshortlyafterwards.Wefounditaneasymattertofollowtheroutetakenbythelion,asheappearedtohavestoppedseveraltimesbeforebeginninghismeal.Poolsofbloodmarkedthesehalting-places,wherehedoubtlessindulgedintheman-eaters'habitof



lickingtheskinoffsoastogetatthefreshblood.(Ihavebeenledtobelievethatthisistheircustomfromtheappearanceoftwohalf-eatenbodieswhichIsubsequentlyrescued:theskinwasgoneinplaces,andthefleshlookeddry,asifithadbeensucked.)Onreachingthespotwherethebodyhadbeendevoured,adreadfulspectaclepresenteditself.Thegroundallroundwascoveredwithbloodandmorselsoffleshandbones,buttheunfortunatejemadar'sheadhadbeenleftintact,savefortheholesmadebythelion'stusksonseizinghim,andlayashortdistanceawayfromtheotherremains,theeyesstaringwideopenwithastartled,horrifiedlookinthem.Theplacewasconsiderablycutup,andoncloserexaminationwefoundthattwolionshadbeenthereandhadprobablystruggledforpossessionofthebody.ItwasthemostgruesomesightIhadeverseen.Wecollectedtheremainsaswellaswecouldandheapedstonesonthem,theheadwithitsfixed,terrifiedstareseemingtowatchusallthetime,foritwedidnotbury,buttookbacktocampforidentificationbeforetheMedicalOfficer.

Thusoccurredmyfirstexperienceofman-eatinglions,andIvowedthereandthenthatIwouldsparenopainstoridtheneighbourhoodofthebrutes.Ilittleknewthetroublethatwasinstoreforme,orhownarrowweretobemyownescapesfromsharingpoorUnganSingh'sfate.

ThatsamenightIsatupinatreeclosetothelatejemadar'stent,

hopingthatthelionswouldreturntoitforanothervictim.Iwasfollowedtomyperchbyafewofthemoreterrifiedcoolies,whobeggedtobeallowedtositupinthetreewithme;alltheotherworkmenremainedintheirtents,butnomoredoorswereleftopen.Ihadwithmemy.303anda12-boreshotgun,onebarrelloadedwithballandtheotherwithslug.Shortlyaftersettlingdowntomyvigil,myhopesofbaggingoneofthebruteswereraisedbythesoundoftheirominousroaringcomingcloserandcloser.Presentlythisceased,andquietreignedforanhourortwo,aslionsalwaysstalktheirpreyincompletesilence.Allatonce,however,weheardagreatuproarandfrenziedcriescomingfromanothercampabouthalfamileaway;weknewthenthatthelionshadseizedavictimthere,andthatweshouldseeorhearnothingfurtherofthemthatnight.

NextmorningIfoundthatoneofthebruteshadbrokenintoatentatRailheadCamp--whencewehadheardthecommotionduringthenight--andhadmadeoffwithapoorwretchwhowaslyingthereasleep.Afteranight'srest,therefore,Itookupmypositioninasuitabletreenearthistent.Ididnotatallliketheideaofwalkingthehalf-miletotheplaceafterdark,butallthesameIfeltfairlysafe,asoneofmymencarriedabrightlampclosebehindme.Heinhisturnwasfollowedbyanotherleadingagoat,whichItiedundermytreeinthehopethatthelionmightbetemptedtoseizeitinsteadofacoolie.AsteadydrizzlecommencedshortlyafterIhadsettleddowntomynightofwatching,andIwassoonthoroughlychilledandwet.Istucktomyuncomfortablepost,however,hopingtogetashot,butIwellremember

thefeelingofimpotentdisappointmentIexperiencedwhenaboutmidnightIheardscreamsandcriesandaheart-rendingshriek,whichtoldmethattheman-eatershadagaineludedmeandhadclaimedanothervictimelsewhere.

Atthistimethevariouscampsfortheworkmenwereveryscattered,sothatthelionshadarangeofsomeeightmilesoneithersideofTsavotoworkupon;andastheirtacticsseemedtobetobreakintoadifferentcampeachnight,itwasmostdifficulttoforestallthem.Theyalmostappeared,too,tohaveanextraordinaryanduncannyfaculty



offindingoutourplansbeforehand,sothatnomatterinhowlikelyorhowtemptingaspotwelayinwaitforthem,theyinvariablyavoidedthatparticularplaceandseizedtheirvictimforthenightfromsomeothercamp.Huntingthembyday,moreover,insuchadensewildernessassurroundedus,wasanexceedinglytiringandreallyfoolhardyundertaking.InathickjungleofthekindroundTsavothehuntedanimalhaseverychanceagainstthehunter,ashowevercarefulthelattermaybe,adeadtwigorsomethingofthesortissuretocracklejustatthecriticalmomentandsogivethealarm.StillInevergaveuphopeofsomedayfindingtheirlair,andaccordinglycontinuedtodevoteallmysparetimetocrawlingaboutthroughtheundergrowth.ManyatimewhenattemptingtoforcemywaythroughthisbewilderingtangleIhadtobereleasedbymygun-bearerfromthefastclutchesofthe"wait-a-bit";andoftenwithimmensepainsIsucceededintracingthelionstotheriveraftertheyhadseizedavictim,onlytolosethetrailfromthereonwards,owingtotherockynatureofthegroundwhichtheyseemedtobecarefultochooseinretreatingtotheirden.

Atthisearlystageofthestruggle,Iamgladtosay,thelionswerenotalwayssuccessfulintheireffortstocaptureahumanbeingfortheirnightlymeal,andoneortwoamusingincidentsoccurredtorelievethetensionfromwhichournerveswerebeginningtosuffer.Ononeoccasionanenterprisingbunniah(Indiantrader)wasridingalongonhisdonkeylateonenight,whensuddenlyalionsprangoutonhim

knockingoverbothmanandbeast.Thedonkeywasbadlywounded,andthelionwasjustabouttoseizethetrader,wheninsomewayorotherhisclawsbecameentangledinaropebywhichtwoemptyoiltinswerestrungacrossthedonkey'sneck.Therattleandclattermadebytheseashedraggedthemafterhimgavehimsuchafrightthatheturnedtailandboltedoffintothejungle,totheintensereliefoftheterrifiedbunniah,whoquicklymadehiswayupthenearesttreeandremainedthere,shiveringwithfear,fortherestofthenight.

Shortlyafterthisepisode,aGreekcontractornamedThemistoclesPappadimitrinihadanequallymarvellousescape.Hewassleepingpeacefullyinhistentonenight,whenalionbrokein,andseizedandmadeoffwiththemattressonwhichhewaslying.Though,rudely

awakened,theGreekwasquiteunhurtandsufferedfromnothingworsethanabadfright.Thissameman,however,metwithamelancholyfatenotlongafterwards.HehadbeentotheKilimaN'jarodistricttobuycattle,andonthereturnjourneyattemptedtotakeashortcutacrosscountrytotherailway,butperishedmiserablyofthirstontheway.

Onanotheroccasionfourteencoolieswhoslepttogetherinalargetentwereonenightawakenedbyalionsuddenlyjumpingontothetentandbreakingthroughit.Thebrutelandedwithoneclawonacoolie'sshoulder,whichwasbadlytorn;butinsteadofseizingthemanhimself,inhishurryhegrabbedalargebagofricewhichhappenedtobelyinginthetent,andmadeoffwithit,droppingitindisgustsomelittledistanceawaywhenherealisedhismistake.

These,however,wereonlytheearliereffortsoftheman-eaters.Lateron,aswillbeseen,nothingflurriedorfrightenedthemintheleast,andexceptasfoodtheyshowedacompletecontemptforhumanbeings.Havingoncemarkeddownavictim,theywouldallownothingtodeterthemfromsecuringhim,whetherhewereprotectedbyathickfence,orinsideaclosedtent,orsittingroundabrightlyburningfire.Shots,shoutingandfirebrandstheyalikeheldinderision.



CHAPTERIII

THEATTACKONTHEGOODS-WAGON

Allthistimemyowntentwaspitchedinanopenclearing,unprotectedbyafenceofanykindroundit.Onenightwhenthemedicalofficer;Dr.Rose,wasstayingwithme,wewereawakenedaboutmidnightbyhearingsomethingtumblingaboutamongthetentropes,butongoingoutwithalanternwecoulddiscovernothing.Daylight,however,plainlyrevealedthe"pug"marksofalion,sothatonthatoccasionIfancyoneorotherofushadanarrowescape.Warnedbythisexperience,Iatoncearrangedtomovemyquarters,andwenttojoinforceswithDr.Brock,whohadjustarrivedatTsavototakemedicalchargeofthedistrict.Wesharedahutofpalmleavesandboughs,whichwehadconstructedontheeasternsideoftheriver,closetotheoldcaravanrouteleadingtoUganda;andwehaditsurroundedbyacircularboma,orthornfence,aboutseventyyardsindiameter,wellmadeandthickandhigh.Ourpersonalservantsalsolivedwithintheenclosure,andabrightfirewasalwayskeptupthroughoutthenight.Forthesakeofcoolness,BrockandIusedtositoutundertheverandahofthishutintheevenings;butitwasrathertryingtoournervestoattempttoread

orwritethere,asweneverknewwhenalionmightspringovertheboma,andbeonusbeforewewereaware.Wethereforekeptourrifleswithineasyreach,andcastmanyananxiousglanceoutintotheinkydarknessbeyondthecircleofthefirelight.Ononeortwooccasions,wefoundinthemorningthatthelionshadcomequiteclosetothefence;butfortunatelytheyneversucceededingettingthrough.

Bythistime,too,thecampsoftheworkmenhadalsobeensurroundedbythornfences;neverthelessthelionsmanagedtojumpoverortobreakthroughsomeoneorotherofthese,andregularlyeveryfewnightsamanwascarriedoff,thereportsofthedisappearanceofthisorthatworkmancomingintomewithpainfulfrequency.Solong,however,asRailheadCamp--withitstwoorthreethousandmen,scatteredovera

widearea--remainedatTsavo,thecooliesappearednottotakemuchnoticeofthedreadfuldeathsoftheircomrades.Eachmanfelt,Isuppose,thatastheman-eatershadsuchalargenumberofvictimstochoosefrom,thechancesoftheirselectinghiminparticularwereverysmall.Butwhenthelargecampmovedaheadwiththerailway,mattersalteredconsiderably.Iwasthenleftwithonlysomefewhundredmentocompletethepermanentworks;andasalltheremainingworkmenwerenaturallycampedtogether,theattentionsofthelionsbecamemoreapparentandmadeadeeperimpression.Aregularpanicconsequentlyensued,anditrequiredallmypowersofpersuasiontoinducethementostayon.Infact,Isucceededindoingsoonlybyallowingthemtoknockoffallregularworkuntiltheyhadbuiltexceptionallythickandhighbomasroundeachcamp.Withintheseenclosuresfireswerekept

burningallnight,anditwasalsothedutyofthenight-watchmantokeepclatteringhalfadozenemptyoiltinssuspendedfromaconvenienttree.Thesehemanipulatedbymeansofalongrope,whilesittinginsafetywithinhistent;andthefrightfulnoisethusproducedwaskeptupatfrequentintervalsduringthenightinthehopesofterrifyingawaytheman-eaters.Inspiteofalltheseprecautions,however,thelionswouldnotbedenied,andmencontinuedtodisappear.

Whentherailheadworkmenmovedon,theirhospitalcampwasleftbehind.Itstoodratherapartfromtheothercamps,inaclearingabout



three-quartersofamilefrommyhut,butwasprotectedbyagoodthickfenceandtoallappearancewasquitesecure.Itseemed,however,asifbarrierswereofnoavailagainstthe"demons",forbeforeverylongoneofthemfoundaweakspotinthebomaandbrokethrough.OnthisoccasiontheHospitalAssistanthadamarvellousescape.Hearinganoiseoutside,heopenedthedoorofhistentandwashorrifiedtoseeagreatlionstandingafewyardsawaylookingathim.Thebeastmadeaspringtowardshim,whichgavetheAssistantsuchafrightthathejumpedbackwards,andindoingsoluckilyupsetaboxcontainingmedicalstores.Thiscrasheddownwithsuchaloudclatterofbreakingglassthatthelionwasstartledforthemomentandmadeofftoanotherpartoftheenclosure.Here,unfortunately,hewasmoresuccessful,ashejumpedontoandbrokethroughatentinwhicheightpatientswerelying.Twoofthemwerebadlywoundedbyhisspring,whileathirdpoorwretchwasseizedanddraggedoffbodilythroughthethornfence.Thetwowoundedcoolieswereleftwheretheylay,apieceoftorntenthavingfallenoverthem;andinthispositionthedoctorandIfoundthemonourarrivalsoonafterdawnnextmorning.Weatoncedecidedtomovethehospitalclosertothemaincamp;afreshsitewasprepared,astouthedgebuiltroundtheenclosure,andallthepatientsweremovedinbeforenightfall.

AsIhadheardthatlionsgenerallyvisitrecentlydesertedcamps,Idecidedtositupallnightinthevacatedbomainthehopeofgetting

anopportunityofbaggingoneofthem;butinthemiddleofmylonelyvigilIhadthemortificationofhearingshrieksandcriescomingfromthedirectionofthenewhospital,tellingmeonlytooplainlythatourdreadedfoeshadoncemoreeludedme.HurryingtotheplaceatdaylightIfoundthatoneofthelionshadjumpedoverthenewlyerectedfenceandhadcarriedoffthehospitalbhisti(water-carrier),andthatseveralothercoolieshadbeenunwillingwitnessesoftheterriblescenewhichtookplacewithinthecircleoflightgivenbythebigcampfire.Thebhisti,itappears,hadbeenlyingonthefloor,withhisheadtowardsthecentreofthetentandhisfeetneatlytouchingtheside.Thelionmanagedtogetitsheadinbelowthecanvas,seizedhimbythefootandpulledhimout.Indesperationtheunfortunatewater-carrierclutchedholdofaheavyboxinavainattempttoprevent

himselfbeingcarriedoff,anddraggeditwithhimuntilhewasforcedtoletgobyitsbeingstoppedbythesideofthetent.Hethencaughtholdofatentrope,andclungtightlytoituntilitbroke.Assoonasthelionmanagedtogethimclearofthetent,hesprangathisthroatandafterafewviciousshakesthepoorbhisti'sagonisingcriesweresilencedforever.Thebrutethenseizedhiminhismouth,likeahugecatwithamouse,andranupanddownthebomalookingforaweakspottobreakthrough.Thishepresentlyfoundandplungedinto,dragginghisvictimwithhimandleavingshredsoftornclothandfleshasghastlyevidencesofhispassagethroughthethorns.Dr.BrockandIwereeasilyabletofollowhistrack,andsoonfoundtheremainsaboutfourhundredyardsawayinthebush.Therewastheusualhorriblesight.Verylittlewasleftoftheunfortunatebhisti--onlytheskull,

thejaws,afewofthelargerbonesandaportionofthepalmwithoneortwofingersattached.Ononeofthesewasasilverring,andthis,withtheteeth(arelicmuchprizedbycertaincastes),wassenttotheman'swidowinIndia.

Againitwasdecidedtomovethehospital;andagain,beforenightfall,theworkwascompleted,includingastillstrongerandthickerboma.Whenthepatientshadbeenmoved,Ihadacoveredgoods-wagonplacedinafavourablepositiononasidingwhichranclosetothesitewhichhadjustbeenabandoned,andinthisBrockandIarrangedtositupthat



night.Weleftacoupleoftentsstillstandingwithintheenclosure,andalsotiedupafewcattleinitasbaitforthelions,whohadbeenseeninnolessthanthreedifferentplacesintheneighbourhoodduringtheafternoon(April23).FourmilesfromTsavotheyhadattemptedtoseizeacooliewhowaswalkingalongtheline.Fortunately,however,hehadjusttimetoescapeupatree,whereheremained,moredeadthanalive,untilhewasrescuedbytheTrafficManager,whocaughtsightofhimfromapassingtrain.TheynextappearedclosetoTsavoStation,andacoupleofhourslatersomeworkmensawoneofthelionsstalkingDr.Brockashewasreturningaboutduskfromthehospital.

Inaccordancewithourplan,thedoctorandIsetoutafterdinnerforthegoods-wagon,whichwasaboutamileawayfromourhut.Inthelightofsubsequentevents,wedidaveryfoolishthingintakingupourpositionsolate;nevertheless,wereachedourdestinationinsafety,andsettleddowntoourwatchaboutteno'clock.Wehadthelowerhalfofthedoorofthewagonclosed,whiletheupperhalfwasleftwideopenforobservation:andwefaced,ofcourse,inthedirectionoftheabandonedboma,which,however,wewereunabletoseeintheinkydarkness.Foranhourortwoeverythingwasquiet,andthedeadlysilencewasbecomingverymonotonousandoppressive,whensuddenly,toourright,adrytwigsnapped,andweknewthatananimalofsomesortwasabout.Soonafterwardsweheardadullthud,asifsomeheavybodyhadjumpedovertheboma.Thecattle,too,becameveryuneasy,andwe

couldhearthemmovingaboutrestlessly.Thenagaincamedeadsilence.AtthisjunctureIproposedtomycompanionthatIshouldgetoutofthewagonandlieonthegroundclosetoit,asIcouldseebetterinthatpositionshouldthelioncomeinourdirectionwithhisprey.Brock,however,persuadedmetoremainwhereIwas;andafewsecondsafterwardsIwasheartilygladthatIhadtakenhisadvice,foratthatverymomentoneoftheman-eaters--althoughwedidnotknowit--wasquietlystalkingus,andwaseventhenalmostwithinspringingdistance.Ordershadbeengivenfortheentrancetothebomatobeblockedup,andaccordinglywewerelisteningintheexpectationofhearingthelionforcehiswayoutthroughthebusheswithhisprey.Asamatteroffact,however,thedoorwayhadnotbeenproperlyclosed,andwhilewewerewonderingwhatthelioncouldbedoinginsidethe

bomaforsolong,hewasoutsideallthetime,silentlyreconnoitringourposition.

PresentlyIfanciedIsawsomethingcomingverystealthilytowardsus.Ifeared,however,totrusttomyeyes,whichbythattimewerestrainedbyprolongedstaringthroughthedarkness,soundermybreathIaskedBrockwhetherhesawanything,atthesametimecoveringthedarkobjectaswellasIcouldwithmyrifle.Brockdidnotanswer;hetoldmeafterwardsthathe,too,thoughthehadseensomethingmove,butwasafraidtosaysolestIshouldfireanditturnouttobenothingafterall.Afterthistherewasintensesilenceagainforasecondortwo,thenwithasuddenboundahugebodysprangatus."Thelion!"Ishouted,andwebothfiredalmostsimultaneously--notamoment

toosoon,forinanothersecondthebrutewouldassuredlyhavelandedinsidethewagon.Asitwas,hemusthaveswervedoffinhisspring,probablyblindedbytheflashandfrightenedbythenoiseofthedoublereportwhichwasincreasedahundredfoldbythereverberationofthehollowironroofofthetruck.Hadwenotbeenverymuchonthealert,hewouldundoubtedlyhavegotoneofus,andwerealisedthatwehadhadaveryluckyandverynarrowescape.ThenextmorningwefoundBrock'sbulletembeddedinthesandclosetoafootprint;itcouldnothavemissedthelionbymorethananinchortwo.Minewasnowheretobefound.



Thusendedmyfirstdirectencounterwithoneoftheman-eaters.

CHAPTERIV

THEBUILDINGOFTHETSAVOBRIDGE

Duringallthistroublesomeperiodtheconstructionoftherailwayhadbeengoingsteadilyforward,andthefirstimportantpieceofworkwhichIhadcommencedonarrivalwascompleted.Thiswasthewideningofarockcuttingthroughwhichtherailwayranjustbeforeit,reachedtheriver.Inthehurryofpushingonthelayingoftheline,justenoughoftherockhadoriginallybeencutawaytoallowroomforanenginetopass,andconsequentlyanymaterialwhichhappenedto,projectoutsidethewagonsortruckscaughtonthejaggedfacesofthecutting.Imyselfsawthedoorofaguard'svan,whichhadbeenleftajar,smashedtoatomsinthisway;andaccordinglyIputagangofrock-drillerstoworkatonceandsoonhadampleroommadeforalltraffictopassunimpeded.Whilethiswasgoingon,anothergangofmenwerelayingthefoundationsofagirderbridgewhichwastospana

gullybetweenthiscuttingandTsavoStation.Thiswouldhavetakentoolongtoerectwhenrailheadwasattheplace,soadiversionhadbeenmaderoundit,thetemporarytrackleadingdownalmosttothebedofthenullahandupagainonthefurtherside.Whenthefoundationsandabutmentswereready,thegullywasspannedbyanirongirder,theslopesleadinguptoitbankeduponeitherside,andthepermanentwaylaidonaneasygrade.

Then,also,awatersupplyhadtobeestablished;andthismeantsomeverypleasantworkformeintakinglevelsupthebanksoftheriverunderthecoolshadeofthepalms.Whiledoingthis,Ioftentookmycamp-kitwithme,andaluncheonservedinthewilds,withoccasionallyafriendtoshareit--whenafriendwasavailable--wasdelightful.On

oneoccasioninparticular,Iwentalongwayuptheriverandwasaccompaniedbyayoungmemberofmystaff.Thedayhadbeenexceedinglyhotandwewerebothcorrespondinglytiredwhenourworkwasfinished,somycompanionsuggestedthatweshouldbuildaraftandfloatdown-streamhome.Iwasratherdoubtful,ofthefeasibilityofthescheme,butneverthelesshedecidedtogiveitatrial.Settingtoworkwithouraxes,wesoonhadaraftbuilt,lashingthepolestogetherwiththefibrewhichgrowsinabundancealloverthedistrict.Whenitwasfinished,wepusheditoutofthelittlebackwaterwhereithadbeenconstructed,andtheyoungengineerjumpedaboard.Allwentwelluntilitgotoutintomidstream,whenmuchtomyamusementitpromptlytoppledgracefullyover.Ihelpedmyfriendtoscramblequicklyupthebankoutofreachofpossiblecrocodiles,when,nonetheworseforhis

ducking,helaughedasheartilyasIattheadventure.

Exceptforanoccasionalrelaxationofthissort,everymomentofmytimewasfullyoccupied.Superintendingthevariousworksandahundredotherdutieskeptmebusyalldaylong,whilemyeveningsweregivenuptosettlingdisputesamongthecoolies,hearingreportsandcomplaintsfromthevariousjemadarsandworkpeople,andinstudyingtheSwahililanguage.Preparations,too,fortheprincipalpieceofworkinthedistrict--thebuildingoftherailwaybridgeovertheTsavoriver--weregoingonapace.Theseinvolved,muchpersonalworkonmypart;cross



andobliquesectionsoftheriverhadtobetaken,therateofthecurrentandthevolumeofwateratflood,mean,andlowlevelshadtobefound,andallthenecessarycalculationsmade.Thesehavingatlengthbeencompleted,Imarkedoutthepositionsfortheabutmentsandpiers,andtheworkofsinkingtheirfoundationswasbegun.Thetwocentrepiersinparticularcausedagreatdealoftrouble,astheriverbrokeinseveraltimes,andhadtobedammedupandpumpeddryagainbeforeworkcouldberesumed.Thenwefoundwehadtosinkmuchdeeperthanweexpectedinordertoreachasolidfoundationindeed,thesinkingwentonandon,untilIbegantodespairoffindingoneandwasabouttoresorttopile-driving,whenatlast,tomyrelief,westrucksolidrockonwhichthehugefoundation-stonescouldbelaidwithperfectsafety.

Anothergreatdifficultywithwhichwehadtocontendwastheabsenceofsuitablestoneintheneighbourhood.Itwasnotthattherewasnonetobefound,forthewholedistrictaboundsinrock,butthatitwassointenselyhardastobealmostimpossibletowork,andabridgebuiltofitwouldhavebeenverycostly.Ispentmanyawearydaytrudgingthroughthethornywildernessvainlysearchingforsuitablematerial,andwasbeginningtothinkthatweshouldbeforcedtouseironcolumnsforthepiers,whenonedayIstumbledquitebyaccidentontheverything.BrockandIwereout"pot-hunting,"andhearingsomeguinea-fowlcacklingamongthebushes,Imadeacircuithalfroundthemsothat

Brock,ongettinginhisshot,shoulddrivethemoverinmydirection.Ieventuallygotintopositionontheedgeofadeepravineandkneltononeknee,crouchingdownamongtheferns.ThereIhadscarcelytimetoloadwhenoverflewabird,whichImissedbadly;andIdidnothaveanotherchance,forBrockhadgottowork,andbeingafirst-rateshothadquicklybaggedabrace.MeanwhileIfeltthegroundveryhardundermyknee,andonexaminationfoundthatthebankoftheravinewasformedofstone,whichextendedforsomedistance,andwhichwasexactlythekindofmaterialforwhichIhadlongbeenfruitlesslysearching.Iwasgreatlydelightedwithmyunexpecteddiscovery,thoughatfirstIhadgravemisgivingsaboutthedistancetobetraversedandthedifficultyoftransportingthestoneacrosstheinterveningcountry.Indeed,Ifoundintheendthattheonlywayofgettingthe

materialtotheplacewhereitwaswantedwasbylayingdownatramlinerightalongtheravine,throwingatemporarybridgeacrosstheTsavo,followingthestreamdownandre-crossingitagainclosetothesiteofthepermanentbridge.Accordingly,Isetmentoworkatoncetocutdownthejungleandpreparearoadonwhichtolaythedoubletrolleyline.Onemorningwhentheywerethusengaged,alittlepaa--akindofverysmallantelope--sprangoutandfounditselfsuddenlyinthemidstofagangofcoolies.Terrifiedandconfusedbytheshoutingofthemen,itranstraightatShereShah,thejemadar,whopromptlydroppedabasketoveritandhelditfast.Ihappenedtoarrivejustintimetosavethegracefullittleanimal'slife,andtookithometomycamp,whereitverysoonbecameagreatpet.Indeed,itgrewsotamethatitwouldjumpuponmytableatmealtimesandeatfrommyhand.

Whentheroadforthetrolleylinewascleared,thenextpieceofworkwasthebuildingofthetwotemporarybridgesovertheriver.Thesewemadeintheroughestfashionoutofpalmtreesandlogsfelledatthecrossingplaces,andhadafloodcomedowntheywould,ofcourse,havebothbeensweptaway;fortunately,however,thisdidnotoccuruntilthepermanentworkwascompleted.Thewholeofthisfeedinglinewasfinishedinaveryshorttime,andtrolliesweresoonplyingbackwardsandforwardswithloadsofstoneandsand,aswealsodiscoveredthelatterinabundanceandofgoodqualityinthebedoftheravine.An



amusingincidentoccurredonedaywhenIwastakingaphotographofanenormousblockofstonewhichwasbeinghauledacrossoneofthesetemporarybridges.Asthetrolleywithitsheavyloadrequiredverycarefulmanipulation,myheadmason,HeeraSingh,stoodonthetopofthestonetodirectoperations,whiletheoverseer,PurshotamHurjee,superintendedthegangsofmenwhohauledtheropesateitherendinordertosteadyitupanddowntheinclines.Butwedidnotknowthatthestreamhadsucceededinwashingawaythefoundationsofoneofthelogsupports;andastheweightofthetrolleywiththestonecameontheunderminedpier,therailstiltedupandoverwentthewholethingintotheriver,justasIsnappedthepicture.HeeraSinghmadeawildspringintothewatertogetclearofthefallingstone,whilePurshotamandtherestfledasiffortheirlivestothebank.Itwasaltogetheramostcomicalsight,andanextraordinarychancethatattheverymomentoftheaccidentIshouldbetakingaphotographoftheoperation.Fortunately,noonewasinjuredintheslightest,andthestonewasrecoveredundamagedwithbutlittletrouble.

Notlongafterthisoccurrencemyownlabourswereonedaynearlybroughttoasuddenandunpleasantend.Iwastravellingalonginanemptytrolleywhich,pushedbytwosturdyPathans,wasreturningtothequarryforsand.Presentlywecametothesharpinclinewhichledtothelogbridgeovertheriver.Hereitwasthecustomofthemen,insteadofrunningbesidethetrolley,tostepontoitandtoletits

ownmomentumtakeitdowntheslope,moderatingitsspeedwhennecessarybyabrakeintheshapeofapole,whichoneofthemcarriedandbywhichthewheelscouldbelocked.Onthisoccasion,however,thepolewasbysomeaccidentdroppedoverboard,anddownthehillweflewwithoutbrakeofanykind.Nearthebridgetherewasasharpcurveintheline,whereIwasafraidthetrolleywouldjumptherails;still,Ithoughtitwasbettertosticktoitthantoriskleapingoff.AmomentafterwardsIfeltmyselfflyingheadfirstovertheedgeofthebridge,justmissingbyahair'sbreadthaprojectingbeam;butluckilyIlandedonasandbankatthesideoftheriver,theheavytrolleyfallingclearofmewithadullthudcloseby.Thisaccident,also,washappilyunattendedbyinjurytoanyone.

CHAPTERV

TROUBLESWITHTHEWORKMEN

ItseemedfatedthatthebuildingoftheTsavoBridgeshouldneverbeallowedtoproceedinpeaceforanylengthoftime.Ihavealreadydescribedourtroubleswiththelions;andnosoonerdidthebeastsofpreyappeartohavedesertedus,forthetimebeingatanyrate,thanothertroubles,nolessserious,arosewiththeworkmenthemselves.

AfterIhaddiscoveredthestoneforthebridge,Isentdowntothecoastforgangsofmasonstoworkanddressit.ThemenwhoweresentmeforthispurposeweremostlyPathansandweresupposedtobeexpertworkmen;butIsoonfoundthatmanyofthemhadnotthefaintestnotionofstone-cutting,andweresimplyordinarycoolieswhohadposedasmasonsinordertodrawforty-fiveinsteadoftwelverupeesamonth.Ondiscoveringthisfact,Iimmediatelyinstitutedasystemofpiecework,anddrewupascaleofpaywhichwouldenablethegenuinemasontoearnhisforty-fiverupeesamonth--andalittlemoreifhefeltinclined--andwouldcutdowntheimpostorstoabouttheirproperpayas



coolies.Now,asisoftenthecaseinthisworld,theimpostorsweregreatlyinthemajority;andaccordinglytheyattemptedtointimidatetheremainderintocomingdowntotheirownstandardasregardsoutputofwork,inthehopeoftherebyinducingmetoabandonthepiece-worksystemofpayment.This,however,Ihadnointentionofdoing,asIknewthatIhaddemandedonlyaperfectlyfairamountofworkfromeachman.

Thesemasonswerecontinuallyhavingquarrelsandfightsamongstthemselves,andIhadfrequentlytogodowntotheircamptoquelldisturbancesandtoseparatetheHindusfromtheMohammedans.Oneparticularlyseriousdisturbanceofthissorthadaratheramusingsequel.Iwassittingafterduskoneeveningatthedoorofmyhut,whenIheardagreatcommotioninthemasons'camp,whichlayonlyafewhundredyardsaway.Presentlyajemadarcamerushinguptometosaythatthemenwereallfightingandmurderingeachotherwithsticksandstones.Iranbackwithhimatonceandsucceededinrestoringorder,butfoundsevenbadlyinjuredmenlyingstretchedoutontheground.TheseIhadcarrieduptomyownbomaoncharpoys(nativebeds);andBrockbeingaway,IhadtoplaythedoctormyselfasbestIcould,stitchingoneandbandaginganotherandgenerallydoingwhatwaspossible.Therewasoneman,however,whogroanedloudlyandheldaclothoverhisfaceasifheweredying.Onliftingthiscovering,IfoundhimtobeacertainmasoncalledKarimBux,whowaswellknownto

measaprimemischief-makeramongthemen.Iexaminedhimcarefully,butasIcoulddiscovernothingamiss,Iconcludedthathemusthavereceivedsomeinternalinjury,andaccordinglytoldhimthatIwouldsendhimtothehospitalatVoi(aboutthirtymilesdowntheline)tobeattendedtoproperly.Hewasthencarriedbacktohiscamp,groaninggrievouslyallthetime.

Scarcelyhadhebeenremoved,whentheheadjemadarcameandinformedmethatthemanwasnothurtatall,andthatasamatteroffacthewasthesolecauseofthedisturbance.Hewasnowpretendingtobebadlyinjured,inordertoescapethepunishmentwhichheknewhewouldreceiveifIdiscoveredthathewastheinstigatorofthetrouble.Onhearingthis,IgaveinstructionsthathewasnottogotoVoiinthe

specialtrainwiththeothers;butIhadnotheardthelastofhimyet.Abouteleveno'clockthatnightIwascalledupandaskedtogodowntothemasons'camptoseeamanwhowassupposedtobedying.Iatoncepulledonmyboots,gotsomebrandyandrandowntothecamp,wheretomysurpriseandamusementIfoundthatitwasmyfriendKarimBuxwhowasatdeath'sdoor.Itwasperfectlyevidenttomethathewasonly"foxing,"butwhenheaskedfordawa(medicine),ItoldhimgravelythatIwouldgivehimsomeverygooddawainthemorning.

Nextdayatnoon--whenitwasmycustomtohaveevil-doersbroughtupforjudgment--IaskedforKarimBux,butwastoldthathewastooilltowalk.Iaccordinglyorderedhimtobecarriedtomyboma,andinafewmomentshearrivedinhischarpoy,whichwasshoulderedbyfour

coolieswho,Icouldsee,knewquitewellthathewasonlyshamming.Therewerealsoascoreorsoofhisfriendshangingaround,doubtlesswaitingintheexpectationofseeingthe"Sahib"hoodwinked.Whenthebedwasplacedonthegroundnearme,Iliftedtheblanketwithwhichhehadcoveredhimselfandthoroughlyexaminedhim,atthesametimefeelinghimtomakesurethathehadnofever.Hepretendedtobedesperatelyillandagainaskedfordawa;buthavingfinallysatisfiedmyselfthatitwasasthejemadarhadsaid--purebudmashi(devilment)--ItoldhimthatIwasgoingtogivehimsomeveryeffectivedawa,andcarefullycoveredhimupagain,pullingtheblanket



overhishead.Ithengotabigarmfulofshavingsfromacarpenter'sbenchwhichwascloseby,putthemunderthebedandsetfiretothem.Assoonastheshaminvalidfelttheheat,hepeepedovertheedgeoftheblanket;andwhenhesawthesmokeandflameleapinguproundhim,hethrewtheblanketfromhim,sprangfromthebedexclaiming"Beimanshaitan!"("Unbelievingdevil!"),andfledlikeadeertotheentranceofmyboma,pursuedbyaSikhsepoy,whogotinacoupleofgoodwhacksonhisshoulderswithastoutstickbeforeheeffectedhisescape.Hisamusedcomradesgreetedmewithshoutsof"Shabash,Sahib!"("Welldone,sir"),andIneverhadanyfurthertroublewithKarimBux.Hecamebacklaterintheday,withclaspedhandsimploringforgiveness,whichIreadilygranted,ashewasacleverworkman.

AfewdaysafterthisincidentIwasreturninghomeonemorningfromatreeinwhichIhadbeenkeepingwatchfortheman-eatersduringthepreviousnight.Comingunexpectedlyonthequarry,Iwasamazedtofinddeadsilencereigningandmyrascalsofworkmenallstretchedoutintheshadeunderthetreestakingitveryeasy--somesleeping,someplayingcards.Iwatchedtheirproceedingsthroughthebushesforalittlewhile,andthenitoccurredtometogivethemafrightbyfiringmyrifleovertheirheads.Onthereportbeingheard,thescenechangedlikemagic:eachmansimplyflewtohisparticularwork,andhammersandchiselsresoundedmerrilyandenergetically,whereallhadbeensilenceamomentbefore.Theythought,ofcourse,thatIwasstill

somedistanceoffandhadnotseenthem,buttotheirconsternationIshoutedtothemthattheyweretoolate,asIhadbeenwatchingthemforsometime.Ifinedeverymanpresentheavily,besidessummarilydegradingtheHeadman,whohadthusshownhimselfutterlyunfitforhisposition.Ithenproceededtomyhut,buthadscarcelyarrivedtherewhentwoofthescoundrelstotteredupafterme,bentalmostdoubleandcallingHeaventowitnessthatIhadshotthembothintheback.Inordertogiveasemblanceoftruthtoanotherwisebaldandunconvincingnarrative,theyhadactuallyinducedoneoftheirfellowworkmentomakeafewholeslikeshotholesintheirbacks,andthesewerebleedingprofusely.Unfortunatelyforthem,however,Ihadbeencarryingarifleandnotashotgun,andtheyhadalsoforgottentomakecorrespondingholesintheirclothing,sothatalltheyachieved

bythiselaboratetissueoffalsehoodwastobringonthemselvesthederisionoftheircomradesandtheimpositionofanextrafine.

Shortlyafterthis,whenthemasonsrealisedthatIintendedtomakeeachmandoafairday'sworkforhismoney,andwouldallownothingtopreventthisintentionfrombeingcarriedout,theycametotheconclusionthatthebestthingtodowouldbetoputmequietlyoutoftheway.Accordinglytheyheldameetingonenight,allbeingsworntosecrecy,andafteralongpalaveritwasarrangedthatIwastobemurderednextdaywhenImademyusualvisittothequarry.Mybodywastobethrownintothejungle,whereofcourseitwouldsoonbedevouredbywildbeasts,andthentheyweretosaythatIhadbeenkilledandeatenbyalion.Tothischeerfulproposaleverymanpresentatthe

meetingagreed,andaffixedhisfinger-marktoalongstripofpaperasabindingtoken.Withinanhourafterthemeetinghaddispersed,however,Iwasarousedbyoneoftheconspirators,whohadcreptintomycamptogivemewarning.Ithankedhimforhisinformation,butdeterminedtogotothequarryinthemorningallthesame,asatthisstageofaffairsIreallydidnotbelievethattheywerecapableofcarryingoutsuchadiabolicalscheme,andwasratherinclinedtothinkthattheinformanthadbeensentmerelytofrightenme.

Accordinglythenextmorning(September6)Istartedoffasusualalong



thetrolleylinetothelonelyquarry.AsIreachedabendintheline,myheadmason,HeeraSingh,averygoodman,creptcautiouslyoutofthebushesandwarnedmenottoproceed.Onmyaskinghimthereason,hesaidthathedarednottell,butthatheandtwentyothermasonswerenotgoingtoworkthatday,astheywereafraidoftroubleatthequarry.AtthisIbegantothinkthattherewassomethinginthestoryIhadheardovernight,butIlaughinglyassuredhimtherewouldbenotroubleandcontinuedonmyway.Onmyarrivalatthequarry,everythingseemedperfectlypeaceful.Allthemenwereworkingawaybusily,butafteramomentortwoInoticedstealthysideglances,andfeltthattherewassomethinginthewind.AssoonasIcameuptothefirstgangofworkmen,thejemadar,atreacherous-lookingvillain,informedmethatthemenworkingfurtheruptheravinehadrefusedtoobeyhisorders,andaskedmeifIwouldgoandseethem.Ifeltatoncethatthiswasadevicetoluremeintothenarrowpartoftheravine,where,withgangsinfrontofmeandbehindme,therewouldbenoescape;stillIthoughtIwouldseetheadventurethrough,whatevercameofit,soIaccompaniedthejemadarupthegully.Whenwegottothefurthergang,hewentsofarastopointoutthetwomenwho,hesaid,hadrefusedtodowhathetoldthem--IsupposehethoughtthatasIwasnevertoleavetheplacealive,itdidnotmatterwhomhecomplainedof.Inotedtheirnamesinmypocket-bookinmyusualmanner,andturnedtoretracemysteps.Immediatelyayellofragewasraisedbythewholebodyofsomesixtymen,answeredbyasimilarshout

fromthoseIhadfirstpassed,andwhonumberedaboutahundred.Bothgroupsofmen,carryingcrowbarsandflourishingtheirheavyhammers,thenclosedinonmeinthenarrowpartoftheravine.Istoodstill,waitingforthemtoact,andonemanrushedatme,seizingbothmywristsandshoutingoutthathewasgoingto"behungandshotforme"--ratheracuriouswayofputtingit,butthatwashisexactexpression.Ieasilywrenchedmyarmsfree,andthrewhimfromme;butbythistimeIwascloselyhemmedin,andeverywhereIlookedIcouldseenothingbutevilandmurderous-lookingfaces.Oneburlybrute,afraidtobethefirsttodealablow,hurledthemannexthimatme;andifhehadsucceededinknockingmedown,IamcertainthatIshouldneverhavegotupagainalive.Asitwas,however,Isteppedquicklyaside,andthemanintendedtoknockmedownwashimselfthrown

violentlyagainstarock,overwhichhefellheavily.

Thisoccasionedamoment'sconfusion,ofwhichIquicklytookadvantage.Isprangontothetopoftherock,andbeforetheyhadtimetorecoverthemselvesIhadstartedharanguingtheminHindustani.Thehabitofobediencestillheldthem,andfortunatelytheylistenedtowhatIhadtosay.ItoldthemthatIknewallabouttheirplottomurderme,andthattheycouldcertainlydosoiftheywished;butthatiftheydid,manyofthemwouldassuredlybehangedforit,astheSirkar(Government)wouldsoonfindoutthetruthandwoulddisbelievetheirstorythatIhadbeencarriedoffbyalion.IsaidthatIknewquitewellthatitwasonlyoneortwoscoundrelsamongthemwhohadinducedthemtobehavesostupidly,andurgedthemnottoallow

themselvestobemadefoolsofinthisway.Evensupposingtheyweretocarryouttheirplanofkillingme,wouldnotanother"Sahib"atoncebesetoverthem,andmighthenotbeanevenhardertask-master?TheyallknewthatIwasjustandfairtotherealworker;itwasonlythescoundrelsandshirkerswhohadanythingtofearfromme,andwereupright,self-respecting.Pathansgoingtoallowthemselvestobeledawaybymenofthatkind?Oncehavinggotthemtolistentome,Ifeltalittlemoresecure,andIaccordinglywentontosaythatthediscontentedamongthemwouldbeallowedtoreturnatoncetoMombasa,whileiftheothersresumedworkandIheardofnofurtherplotting,I



wouldtakenonoticeoftheirfoolishconduct.FinallyIcalleduponthosewhowerewillingtoreturntoworktoholduptheirhands,andinstantlyeveryhandinthecrowdwasraised.Ithenfeltthatforthemomentthevictorywasmine,andafterdismissingthem,Ijumpeddownfromtherockandcontinuedmyroundsasifnothinghadhappened,measuringastonehereandthereandcommentingontheworkdone.Theywerestillinaveryuncertainandsullenmood,however,andnotatalltobereliedupon,soitwaswithfeelingsofgreatreliefthatanhourlaterImademywayback,safeandsound,toTsavo.

Thedangerwasnotyetpast,unfortunately,forscarcelyhadIturnedmybacktogohomewhenthemutinybrokeoutagain,anothermeetingbeingheld,andafreshplotmadetomurdermeduringthenight.OfthisIwassooninformedbymytime-keeper,whoalsotoldmethathewasafraidtogooutandcalltheroll,astheyhadthreatenedtokillhimalso.AtthisfurtheroutrageIlostnotimeintelegraphingfortheRailwayPolice,andalsototheDistrictOfficer,Mr.Whitehead,whoimmediatelymarchedhismentwenty-fivemilesbyroadtomyassistance.Ihavenodoubt,indeed,thathispromptactionalonesavedmefrombeingattackedthatverynight.TwoorthreedaysafterwardstheRailwayPolicearrivedandarrestedtheringleadersinthemutiny,whoweretakentoMombasaandtriedbeforeMr.Crawford,theBritishConsul,whenthefulldetailsoftheplotstomurdermewereunfoldedbyoneofthemwhoturnedQueen'sevidence.Allthescoundrelswere

foundguiltyandsentencedtovarioustermsofimprisonmentinthechain-gangs,andIwasneveragaintroubledwithmutinousworkmen.

CHAPTERVI

THEREIGNOFTERROR

ThelionsseemedtohavegotabadfrightthenightBrockandIsatupinwaitfortheminthegoods-wagon,fortheykeptawayfromTsavoand

didnotmolestusinanywayforsomeconsiderabletime--not,infact,untillongafterBrockhadleftmeandgoneonsafari(acaravanjourney)toUganda.Inthisbreathingspacewhichtheyvouchsafedus,itoccurredtomethatshouldtheyrenewtheirattacks,atrapwouldperhapsofferthebestchanceofgettingatthem,andthatifIcouldconstructoneinwhichacoupleofcooliesmightbeusedasbaitwithoutbeingsubjectedtoanydanger,thelionswouldbequitedaringenoughtoenteritinsearchofthemandthusbecaught.Iaccordinglysettoworkatonce,andinashorttimemanagedtomakeasufficientlystrongtrapoutofwoodensleepers,tram-rails,piecesoftelegraphwire,andalengthofheavychain.Itwasdividedintotwocompartments--oneforthemenandoneforthelion.Aslidingdooratoneendadmittedtheformer,andonceinsidethiscompartmenttheywere

perfectlysafe,asbetweenthemandthelion,ifheenteredtheother,ranacrosswallofironrailsonlythreeinchesapart,andembeddedbothtopandbottominheavywoodensleepers.Thedoorwhichwastoadmitthelionwas,ofcourse,attheoppositeendofthestructure,butotherwisethewholethingwasverymuchontheprincipleoftheordinaryrat-trap,exceptthatitwasnotnecessaryfortheliontoseizethebaitinordertosendthedoorclatteringdown.Thispartofthecontrivancewasarrangedinthefollowingmanner.Aheavychainwassecuredalongthetoppartofthelion'sdoorway,theendshangingdowntothegroundoneithersideoftheopening;andtothesewere



fastened,stronglysecuredbystoutwire,shortlengthsofrailsplacedaboutsixinchesapart.Thismadeasortofflexibledoorwhichcouldbepackedintoasmallspacewhennotinuse,andwhichabuttedagainstthetopofthedoorwaywhenliftedup.Thedoorwasheldinthispositionbyalevermadeofapieceofrail,whichinturnwaskeptinitsplacebyawirefastenedtooneendandpassingdowntoaspringconcealedinthegroundinsidethecage.Assoonasthelionenteredsufficientlyfarintothetrap,hewouldbeboundtotreadonthespring;hisweightonthiswouldreleasethewire,andinaninstantdownwouldcomethedoorbehindhim;andhecouldnotpushitoutinanyway,asitfellintoagroovebetweentworailsfirmlyembeddedintheground.

Inmakingthistrap,whichcostusalotofwork,wewereratheratalossforwantoftoolstoboreholesintherailsforthedoorway,soastoenablethemtobefastenedbythewiretothechain.Itoccurredtome,however,thatahard-nosedbulletfrommy.303wouldpenetratetheiron,andonmakingtheexperimentIwasgladtofindthataholewasmadeascleanlyasifithadbeenpunchedout.

WhenthetrapwasreadyIpitchedatentoveritinorderfurthertodeceivethelions,andbuiltanexceedinglystrongbomaroundit.Onesmallentrancewasmadeatthebackoftheenclosureforthemen,whichtheyweretocloseongoinginbypullingabushafterthem;and

anotherentrancejustinfrontofthedoorofthecagewasleftopenforthelions.ThewiseacrestowhomIshowedmyinventionweregenerallyoftheopinionthattheman-eaterswouldbetoocunningtowalkintomyparlour;but,aswillbeseenlater,theirpredictionsprovedfalse.ForthefirstfewnightsIbaitedthetrapmyself,butnothinghappenedexceptthatIhadaverysleeplessanduncomfortabletime,andwasbadlybittenbymosquitoes.

Asamatteroffact,itwassomemonthsbeforethelionsattackedusagain,thoughfromtimetotimeweheardoftheirdepredationsinotherquarters.Notlongafterournightinthegoods-wagon,twomenwerecarriedofffromrailhead,whileanotherwastakenfromaplacecalledEngomani,abouttenmilesaway.Withinaveryshorttime,thislatter

placewasagainvisitedbythebrutes,twomoremenbeingseized,oneofwhomwaskilledandeaten,andtheothersobadlymauledthathediedwithinfewdays.AsIhavesaid,however,weatTsavoenjoyedcompleteimmunityfromattack,andthecoolies,believingthattheirdreadedfoeshadpermanentlydesertedthedistrict,resumedalltheirusualhabitsandoccupations,andlifeinthecampsreturnedtoitsnormalroutine.

Atlastweweresuddenlystartledoutofthisfeelingofsecurity.Onedarknightthefamiliarterror-strickencriesandscreamsawokethecamps,andweknewthatthe"demons"hadreturnedandhadcommencedanewlistofvictims.Onthisoccasionanumberofmenhadbeensleepingoutsidetheirtentsforthesakeofcoolness,thinking,ofcourse,that

thelionshadgoneforgood,whensuddenlyinthemiddleofthenightoneofthebruteswasdiscoveredforcingitswaythroughtheboma.Thealarmwasatoncegiven,andsticks,stonesandfirebrandswerehurledinthedirectionoftheintruder.Allwasofnoavail,however,forthelionburstintothemidstoftheterrifiedgroup,seizedanunfortunatewretchamidthecriesandshrieksofhiscompanions,anddraggedhimoffthroughthethickthornfence.Hewasjoinedoutsidebythesecondlion,andsodaringhadthetwobrutesbecomethattheydidnottroubletocarrytheirvictimanyfurtheraway,butdevouredhimwithinthirtyyardsofthetentwherehehadbeenseized.Althoughseveralshotswere



firedintheirdirectionbythejemadarofthegangtowhichthecooliebelonged,theytooknonoticeoftheseanddidnotattempttomoveuntiltheirhorriblemealwasfinished.ThefewscatteredfragmentsthatremainedofthebodyIwouldnotallowtobeburiedatonce,hopingthatthelionswouldreturntothespotthefollowingnight;andonthechanceofthisItookupmystationatnightfallinaconvenienttree.Nothingoccurredtobreakthemonotonyofmywatch,however,exceptthatIhadavisitfromahyena,andthenextmorningIlearnedthatthelionshadattackedanothercampabouttwomilesfromTsavo--forbythistimethecampswereagainscattered,asIhadworksinprogressallupanddowntheline.Theretheman-eatershadbeensuccessfulinobtainingavictim,whom,asinthepreviousinstance,theydevouredquiteclosetothecamp.Howtheyforcedtheirwaythroughthebomaswithoutmakinganoisewas,andstillis,amysterytome;Ishouldhavethoughtthatitwasnexttoimpossibleforananimaltogetthroughatall.Yettheycontinuallydidso,andwithoutasoundbeingheard.

Afterthisoccurrence,Isatupeverynightforoveraweeknearlikelycamps,butallinvain.Eitherthelionssawmeandthenwentelsewhere,orelseIwasunlucky,fortheytookmanaftermanfromdifferentplaceswithouteveroncegivingmeachanceofashotatthem.Thisconstantnightwatchingwasmostdrearyandfatiguingwork,butIfeltthatitwasadutythathadtobeundertaken,asthemen

naturallylookedtomeforprotection.InthewholeofmylifeIhaveneverexperiencedanythingmorenerve-shakingthantohearthedeeproarsofthesedreadfulmonstersgrowinggraduallynearerandnearer,andtoknowthatsomeoneorotherofuswasdoomedtobetheirvictimbeforemorningdawned.Oncetheyreachedthevicinityofthecamps,theroarscompletelyceased,andweknewthattheywerestalkingfortheirprey.Shoutswouldthenpassfromcamptocamp,"Khabardar,bhaieon,shaitanata"("Beware,brothers,thedeviliscoming"),butthewarningcrieswouldproveofnoavail,andsoonerorlateragonisingshriekswouldbreakthesilence,andanothermanwouldbemissingfromroll-callnextmorning.

Iwasnaturallyverydisheartenedatbeingfoiledinthiswaynight

afternight,andwassoonatmywits'endtoknowwhattodo;itseemedasifthelionswerereally"devils"afterallandboreacharmedlife.AsIhavesaidbefore,trackingthemthroughthejunglewasahopelesstask;butassomethinghadtobedonetokeepupthemen'sspirits,Ispentmanyawearydaycrawlingonmyhandsandkneesthroughthedenseundergrowthoftheexasperatingwildernessaroundus.Asamatteroffact,ifIhadcomeupwiththelionsonanyoftheseexpeditions,itwasmuchmorelikelythattheywouldhaveaddedmetotheirlistofvictimsthanthatIshouldhavesucceededinkillingeitherofthem,aseverythingwouldhavebeenintheirfavour.Aboutthistime,too,Ihadmanyhelpers,andseveralofficers--civil,navalandmilitary--cametoTsavofromthecoastandsatupnightafternightinordertogetashotatourdaringfoes.Allofus,however,metwiththesamelackof

success,andthelionsalwaysseemedcapableofavoidingthewatchers,whilesucceeding,atthesametimeinobtainingavictim.

Ihaveaveryvividrecollectionofoneparticularnightwhenthebrutesseizedamanfromtherailwaystationandbroughthimclosetomycamptodevour.Icouldplainlyhearthemcrunchingthebones,andthesoundoftheirdreadfulpurringfilledtheairandranginmyearsfordaysafterwards.Theterriblethingwastofeelsohelpless;itwasuselesstoattempttogoout,asofcoursethepoorfellowwasdead,andinadditionitwassopitchdarkastomakeitimpossibletosee



anything.Somehalfadozenworkmen,wholivedinasmallenclosureclosetomine,becamesoterrifiedonhearingthelionsattheirmealthattheyshoutedandimploredmetoallowthemtocomeinsidemyboma.ThisIwillinglydid,butsoonafterwardsIrememberedthatonemanhadbeenlyingillintheircamp,andonmakingenquiryIfoundthattheyhadcallouslylefthimbehindalone.Iimmediatelytooksomemenwithmetobringhimtomyboma,butonenteringhistentIsawbythelightofthelanternthatthepoorfellowwasbeyondneedofsafety.Hehaddiedofshockatbeingdesertedbyhiscompanions.

Fromthistimemattersgraduallybecameworseandworse.Hitherto,asarule,onlyoneoftheman-eatershadmadetheattackandhaddonetheforaging,whiletheotherwaitedoutsideinthebush;butnowtheybegantochangetheirtactics,enteringthebomastogetherandeachseizingavictim.InthiswaytwoSwahiliporterswerekilledduringthelastweekofNovember,onebeingimmediatelycarriedoffanddevoured.Theotherwasheardmoaningforalongtime,andwhenhisterrifiedcompanionsatlastsummonedupsufficientcouragetogotohisassistance,theyfoundhimstuckfastinthebushesoftheboma,throughwhichforoncethelionhadapparentlybeenunabletodraghim.HewasstillalivewhenIsawhimnextmorning,butsoterriblymauledthathediedbeforehecouldbegottothehospital.

Withinafewdaysofthisthetwobrutesmadeamostferociousattack

onthelargestcampinthesection,whichforsafety'ssakewassituatedwithinastone'sthrowofTsavoStationandclosetoaPermanentWayInspector'sironhut.Suddenlyinthedeadofnightthetwoman-eatersburstinamongtheterrifiedworkmen,andevenfrommyboma,somedistanceaway,Icouldplainlyhearthepanic-strickenshriekingofthecoolies.Thenfollowedcriesof"They'vetakenhim;they'vetakenhim,"asthebrutescarriedofftheirunfortunatevictimandbegantheirhorriblefeastclosebesidethecamp.TheInspector,Mr.Dalgairns,firedoverfiftyshotsinthedirectioninwhichheheardthelions,buttheywerenottobefrightenedandcalmlylaythereuntiltheirmealwasfinished.Afterexaminingthespotinthemorning,weatoncesetouttofollowthebrutes,Mr.Dalgairnsfeelingconfidentthathehadwoundedoneofthem,astherewasatrailonthe

sandlikethatofthetoesofabrokenlimb.Aftersomecarefulstalking,wesuddenlyfoundourselvesinthevicinityofthelions,andweregreetedwithominousgrowlings.Cautiouslyadvancingandpushingthebushesaside,wesawinthegloomwhatweatfirsttooktobealioncub;closerinspection,however,showedittobetheremainsoftheunfortunatecoolie,whichtheman-eatershadevidentlyabandonedatourapproach.Thelegs,onearmandhalfthebodyhadbeeneaten,anditwasthestifffingersoftheotherarmtrailingalongthesandwhichhadleftthemarkswehadtakentobethetrailofawoundedlion.Bythistimethebeastshadretiredfarintothethickjunglewhereitwasimpossibletofollowthem,sowehadtheremainsofthecoolieburiedandoncemorereturnedhomedisappointed.

Nowthebravestmenintheworld,muchlesstheordinaryIndiancoolie,willnotstandconstantterrorsofthissortindefinitely.Thewholedistrictwasbythistimethoroughlypanic-stricken,andIwasnotatallsurprised,therefore,tofindonmyreturntocampthatsameafternoon(December1)thatthemenhadallstruckworkandwerewaitingtospeaktome.WhenIsentforthem,theyflockedtomybomainabodyandstatedthattheywouldnotremainatTsavoanylongerforanythingoranybody;theyhadcomefromIndiaonanagreementtoworkfortheGovernment,nottosupplyfoodforeitherlionsor"devils."Nosoonerhadtheydeliveredthisultimatumthanaregularstampedetook



place.Somehundredsofthemstoppedthefirstpassingtrainbythrowingthemselvesontherailsinfrontoftheengine,andthen,swarmingontothetrucksandthrowingintheirpossessionsanyhow,theyfledfromtheaccursedspot.

Afterthistherailwayworkswerecompletelystopped;andforthenextthreeweekspracticallynothingwasdonebutbuild"lion-proof"hutsforthoseworkmenwhohadhadsufficientcouragetoremain.Itwasastrangeandamusingsighttoseethesesheltersperchedonthetopofwater-tanks,roofsandgirders--anywhereforsafety--whilesomeevenwentsofarastodigpitsinsidetheirtents,intowhichtheydescendedatnight,coveringthetopoverwithheavylogsofwood.Everygood-sizedtreeinthecamphadasmanybedslashedontoitasitsbrancheswouldbear--andsometimesmore.Irememberthatonenightwhenthecampwasattacked,somanymenswarmedontooneparticulartreethatdownitcamewithacrash,hurlingitsterror-strickenloadofshriekingcooliesclosetotheverylionstheyweretryingtoavoid.Fortunatelyforthem,avictimhadalreadybeensecured,andthebrutesweretoobusydevouringhimtopayattentiontoanythingelse.

CHAPTERVII

THEDISTRICTOFFICER'SNARROWESCAPE

Somelittletimebeforetheflightoftheworkmen,IhadwrittentoMr.Whitehead,theDistrictOfficer,askinghimtocomeupandassistmeinmycampaignagainstthelions,andtobringwithhimanyofhisaskaris(nativesoldiers)thathecouldspare.Herepliedacceptingtheinvitation,andtoldmetoexpecthimaboutdinner-timeonDecember2,whichturnedouttobethedayaftertheexodus.HistrainwasdueatTsavoaboutsixo'clockintheevening,soIsentmy"boy"uptothestationtomeethimandtohelpincarryinghisbaggagetothecamp.Inaveryshorttime,however,the"boy"rushedbacktremblingwith

terror,andinformedmethattherewasnosignofthetrainoroftherailwaystaff,butthatanenormouslionwasstandingonthestationplatform.ThisextraordinarystoryIdidnotbelieveintheleast,asbythistimethecoolies--neverremarkableforbravery--wereinsuchastateoffrightthatiftheycaughtsightofahyenaorababoon,orevenadog,inthebush,theyweresuretoimagineitwasalion;butIfoundoutnextdaythatitwasanactualfact,andthatbothstationmasterandsignalmanhadbeenobligedtotakerefugefromoneoftheman-eatersbylockingthemselvesinthestationbuilding.

IwaitedsomelittletimeforMr.Whitehead,buteventually,ashedidnotputinanappearance,Iconcludedthathemusthavepostponedhisjourneyuntilthenextday,andsohadmydinnerinmycustomary

solitarystate.DuringthemealIheardacoupleofshots,butpaidnoattentiontothem,asrifleswereconstantlybeingfiredoffintheneighbourhoodofthecamp.Laterintheevening,Iwentoutasusualtowatchforourelusivefoes,andtookupmypositioninacribmadeofsleeperswhichIhadbuiltonabiggirderclosetoacampwhichIthoughtwaslikelytobeattacked.Soonaftersettlingdownatmypost,Iwassurprisedtoheartheman-eatersgrowlingandpurringandcrunchingupbonesaboutseventyyardsfromthecrib.Icouldnotunderstandwhattheyhadfoundtoeat,asIhadheardnocommotioninthecamps,andIknewbybitterexperiencethateverymealthebrutes



obtainedfromuswasannouncedbyshrieksanduproar.TheonlyconclusionIcouldcometowasthattheyhadpounceduponsomepoorunsuspectingnativetraveller.AfteratimeIwasabletomakeouttheireyesglowinginthedarkness,andItookascarefulaimaswaspossibleinthecircumstancesandfired;buttheonlynoticetheypaidtotheshotwastocarryoffwhatevertheyweredevouringandtoretirequietlyoveraslightrise,whichpreventedmefromseeingthem.Theretheyfinishedtheirmealattheirease.

Assoonasitwasdaylight,IgotoutofmycribandwenttowardstheplacewhereIhadlastheardthem.Ontheway,whomshouldImeetbutmymissingguest,Mr.Whitehead,lookingverypaleandill,andgenerallydishevelled.

"Whereonearthhaveyoucomefrom?"Iexclaimed."Whydidn'tyouturnuptodinnerlastnight?"

"Anicereceptionyougiveafellowwhenyouinvitehimtodinner,"washisonlyreply.

"Why,what'sup?"Iasked.

"Thatinfernallionofyoursnearlydidformelastnight,"saidWhitehead.

"Nonsense,youmusthavedreamedit!"Icriedinastonishment.

Foranswerheturnedroundandshowedmehisback."That'snotmuchofadream,isit?"heasked.

Hisclothingwasrentbyonehugetearfromthenapeoftheneckdownwards,andonthefleshtherewerefourgreatclawmarks,showingredandangrythroughthetorncloth.Withoutfurtherparley,Ihurriedhimofftomytent,andbathedanddressedhiswounds;andwhenIhadmadehimconsiderablymorecomfortable,Igotfromhimthewholestoryoftheeventsofthenight.

Itappearedthathistrainwasverylate,sothatitwasquitedarkwhenhearrivedatTsavoStation,fromwhichthetracktomycamplaythroughasmallcutting.HewasaccompaniedbyAbdullah,hissergeantofaskaris,whowalkedclosebehindhimcarryingalightedlamp.Allwentwelluntiltheywereabouthalf-waythroughthegloomycutting,whenoneofthelionssuddenlyjumpeddownuponthemfromthehighbank,knockingWhiteheadoverlikeaninepin,andtearinghisbackinthemannerIhadseen.Fortunately,however,hehadhiscarbinewithhim,andinstantlyfired.Theflashandtheloudreportmusthavedazedthelionforasecondortwo,enablingWhiteheadtodisengagehimself;butthenextinstantthebrutepouncedlikelightningontheunfortunateAbdullah,withwhomheatoncemadeoff.Allthatthepoorfellowcouldsaywas:"Eh,Bwana,simba"("Oh,Master,alion").Asthe

lionwasdragginghimoverthebank,Whiteheadfiredagain,butwithouteffect,andthebrutequicklydisappearedintothedarknesswithhisprey.Itwasofcourse,thisunfortunatemanwhomIhadheardthelionsdevouringduringthenight.Whiteheadhimselfhadamarvellousescape;hiswoundswerehappilynotverydeep,andcausedhimlittleornoinconvenienceafterwards.

Onthesameday,December3,theforcesarrayedagainstthelionswerefurtherstrengthened.Mr.Farquhar,theSuperintendentofPolice,arrivedfromthecoastwithascoreofsepoystoassistinhuntingdown



theman-eaters,whosefamehadbythistimespreadfarandwide,andthemostelaborateprecautionsweretaken,hismenbeingpostedonthemostconvenienttreesneareverycamp.Severalotherofficialshadalsocomeuponleavetojoininthechase,andeachoftheseguardedalikelyspotinthesameway,Mr.Whiteheadsharingmypostinsidethecribonthegirder.Further,inspiteofsomechaff,myliontrapwasputinthoroughworkingorder,andtwoofthesepoyswereinstalledasbait.

Ourpreparationswerequitecompletebynightfall,andwealltookupourappointedpositions.Nothinghappeneduntilaboutnineo'clock,whentomygreatsatisfactiontheintensestillnesswassuddenlybrokenbythenoiseofthedoorofthetrapclatteringdown."Atlast,"Ithought,"oneatleastofthebrutesisdonefor."Butthesequelwasanignominiousone.

Thebait-sepoyshadalampburninginsidetheirpartofthecage,andwereeacharmedwithaMartinirifle,withplentyofammunition.Theyhadalsobeengivenstrictorderstoshootatonceifalionshouldenterthetrap.Insteadofdoingso,however,theyweresoterrifiedwhenherushedinandbegantolashhimselfmadlyagainstthebarsofthecage,thattheycompletelylosttheirheadsandwereactuallytoounnervedtofire.Notforsomeminutes--not,indeed,untilMr.Farquhar,whosepostwascloseby,shoutedatthemandcheeredthem

on--didtheyatallrecoverthemselves.Thenwhenatlasttheydidbegintofire,theyfiredwithavengeance--anywhere,anyhow.WhiteheadandIwereatrightanglestothedirectioninwhichtheyshouldhaveshot,andyettheirbulletscamewhizzingallroundus.Altogethertheyfiredoverascoreofshots,andintheendsucceededonlyinblowingawayoneofthebarsofthedoor,thusallowingourprizetomakegoodhisescape.Howtheyfailedtokillhimseveraltimesoveris,andalwayswillbe,acompletemysterytome,astheycouldhaveputthemuzzlesoftheirriflesabsolutelytouchinghisbody.Therewas,indeed,somebloodscatteredaboutthetrap,butitwassmallconsolationtoknowthatthebrute,whosecaptureanddeathseemedsocertain,hadonlybeenslightlywounded.

Stillwewerenotundulydejected,andwhenmorningcame,ahuntwasatoncearranged.Accordinglywespentthegreaterpartofthedayonourhandsandkneesfollowingthelionsthroughthedensethicketsofthornyjungle,butthoughweheardtheirgrowlsfromtimetotime,weneversucceededinactuallycomingupwiththem.Ofthewholeparty,onlyFarquharmanagedtocatchamomentaryglimpseofoneasitboundedoverabush.Twodaysmorewerespentinthesamemanner,andwithequalunsuccess;andthenFarquharandhissepoyswereobligedtoreturntothecoast.Mr.Whiteheadalsodepartedforhisdistrict,andonceagainIwasleftalonewiththeman-eaters.

CHAPTERVIII

THEDEATHOFTHEFIRSTMAN-EATER

Adayortwoafterthedepartureofmyallies,asIwasleavingmybomasoonafterdawnonDecember9,IsawaSwahilirunningexcitedlytowardsme,shoutingout"Simba!Simba!"("Lion!Lion!"),andeverynowandagainlookingbehindhimasheran.OnquestioninghimIfoundthat



thelionshadtriedtosnatchamanfromthecampbytheriver,butbeingfoiledinthishadseizedandkilledoneofthedonkeys,andwereatthatmomentbusydevouringitnotfaroff.Nowwasmychance.

IrushedfortheheavyriflewhichFarquharhadkindlyleftwithmeforuseincaseanopportunitysuchasthisshouldarise,and,ledbytheSwahili,Istartedmostcarefullytostalkthelions,who,Idevoutlyhoped,wereconfiningtheirattentionstrictlytotheirmeal.Iwasgettingonsplendidly,andcouldjustmakeouttheoutlineofoneofthemthroughthedensebush,whenunfortunatelymyguidesnappedarottenbranch.Thewilybeastheardthenoise,growledhisdefiance,anddisappearedinamomentintoapatchofeventhickerjunglecloseby.Indesperationatthethoughtofhisescapingmeonceagain,Icrepthurriedlybacktothecamp,summonedtheavailableworkmenandtoldthemtobringallthetom-toms,tincans,andothernoisyinstrumentsofanykindthatcouldbefound.AsquicklyaspossibleIpostedtheminahalf-circleroundthethicket,andgavetheheadjemadarinstructionstostartasimultaneousbeatingofthetom-tomsandcansassoonashejudgedthatIhadhadtimetogetroundtotheotherside.Ithencreptroundbymyselfandsoonfoundagoodpositionandonewhichthelionwasmostlikelytoretreatpast,asitwasinthemiddleofabroadanimalpathleadingstraightfromtheplacewherehewasconcealed.Ilaydownbehindasmallanthill,andwaitedexpectantly.VerysoonIheardatremendousdinbeingraisedbythe

advancinglineofcoolies,andalmostimmediately,tomyintensejoy,outintotheopenpathsteppedahugemanelesslion.ItwasthefirstoccasionduringallthesetryingmonthsuponwhichIhadhadafairchanceatoneofthesebrutes,andmysatisfactionattheprospectofbagginghimwasunbounded.

Slowlyheadvancedalongthepath,stoppingeveryfewsecondstolookround.Iwasonlypartiallyconcealedfromview,andifhisattentionhadnotbeensofullyoccupiedbythenoisebehindhim,hemusthaveobservedme.Ashewasoblivioustomypresence,however,Ilethimapproachtowithinaboutfifteenyardsofme,andthencoveredhimwithmyrifle.ThemomentImovedtodothis,hecaughtsightofme,andseemedmuchastonishedatmysuddenappearance,forhestuckhis

forefeetintotheground,threwhimselfbackonhishaunchesandgrowledsavagely.AsIcoveredhisbrainwithmyrifle,IfeltthatatlastIhadhimabsolutelyatmymercy,but....nevertrustanuntriedweapon!Ipulledthetrigger,andtomyhorrorheardthedullsnapthattellsofamisfire.

Worsewastofollow.IwassotakenabackanddisconcertedbythisuntowardaccidentthatIentirelyforgottofiretheleftbarrel,andloweredtheriflefrommyshoulderwiththeintentionofreloading--ifIshouldbegiventime.Fortunatelyforme,thelionwassodistractedbytheterrificdinanduproarofthecooliesbehindhimthatinsteadofspringingonme,asmighthavebeenexpected,heboundedasideintothejungleagain.BythistimeIhadcollectedmywits,andjustashe

jumpedIlethimhavetheleftbarrel.Anansweringangrygrowltoldmethathehadbeenhit;butneverthelesshesucceededoncemoreingettingclearaway,foralthoughItrackedhimforsomelittledistance,Ieventuallylosthistrailinarockypatchofground.

BitterlydidIanathematisethehourinwhichIhadreliedonaborrowedweapon,andinmydisappointmentandvexationIabusedowner,maker,andriflewithfineimpartiality.Onextractingtheunexplodedcartridge,Ifoundthattheneedlehadnotstruckhome,thecapbeingonlyslightlydented;sothatthewholefaultdidindeedliewiththe



rifle,whichIlaterreturnedtoFarquharwithpolitecompliments.Seriously,however,mycontinuedill-luckwasmostexasperating;andtheresultwasthattheIndiansweremorethaneverconfirmedintheirbeliefthatthelionswerereallyevilspirits,proofagainstmortalweapons.Certainly,theydidseemtobearcharmedlives.

Afterthisdismalfailuretherewas,ofcourse,nothingtodobuttoreturntocamp.Beforedoingso,however,Iproceededtoviewthedeaddonkey,whichIfoundtohavebeenonlyslightlydevoureditthequarters.Itisacuriousfactthatlionsalwaysbeginatthetailoftheirpreyandeatupwardstowardsthehead.Astheirmealhadthusbeeninterruptedevidentlyattheverybeginning,Ifeltprettysurethatoneorotherofthebruteswouldreturntothecarcaseatnightfall.Accordingly,astherewasnotreeofanykindcloseathand,Ihadastagingerectedsometenfeetawayfromthebody.Thismachanwasabouttwelvefeethighandwascomposedoffourpolesstuckintothegroundandinclinedtowardseachotheratthetop,whereaplankwaslashedtoserveasaseat.Further,asthenightswerestillpitchdark,Ihadthedonkey'scarcasesecuredbystrongwirestoaneighbouringstump,sothatthelionsmightnotbeabletodragitawaybeforeIcouldgetashotatthem.

Atsundown,therefore,Itookupmypositiononmyairyperch,andmuchtothedisgustofmygun-bearer,Mahina,Idecidedtogoalone.Iwould

gladlyhavetakenhimwithme,indeed,buthehadabadcough,andIwasafraidlestheshouldmakeanyinvoluntarynoiseormovementwhichmightspoilall.Darknessfellalmostimmediately,andeverythingbecameextraordinarilystill.ThesilenceofanAfricanjungleonadarknightneedstobeexperiencedtoberealised;itismostimpressive,especiallywhenoneisabsolutelyaloneandisolatedfromone'sfellowcreatures,asIwasthen.Thesolitudeandstillness,andthepurposeofmyvigil,allhadtheireffectonme,andfromaconditionofstrainedexpectancyIgraduallyfellintoadreamymoodwhichharmonisedwellwithmysurroundings.SuddenlyIwasstartledoutofmyreveriebythesnappingofatwig:and,strainingmyearsforafurthersound,IfanciedIcouldheartherustlingofalargebodyforcingitswaythroughthebush."Theman-eater,"Ithoughttomyself;

"surelyto-nightmyluckwillchangeandIshallbagoneofthebrutes."Profoundsilenceagainsucceeded;Isatonmyeyrielikeastatue,everynervetensewithexcitement.Verysoon,however,alldoubtastothepresenceofthelionwasdispelled.Adeeplong-drawnsigh--suresignofhunger--cameupfromthebushes,andtherustlingcommencedagainashecautiouslyadvanced.Inamomentortwoasuddenstop,followedbyanangrygrowl,toldmethatmypresencehadbeennoticed;andIbegantofearthatdisappointmentawaitedmeoncemore.

Butno;mattersquicklytookanunexpectedturn.Thehunterbecamethehunted;andinsteadofeithermakingofforcomingforthebaitpreparedforhim,thelionbeganstealthilytostalkme!Forabouttwohourshehorrifiedmebyslowlycreepingroundandroundmycrazy

structure,graduallyedginghiswaynearerandnearer.EverymomentIexpectedhimtorushit;andthestaginghadnotbeenconstructedwithaneyetosuchapossibility.Ifoneoftheratherflimsypolesshouldbreak,orifthelioncouldspringthetwelvefeetwhichseparatedmefromtheground...thethoughtwasscarcelyapleasantone.Ibegantofeeldistinctly"creepy,"andheartilyrepentedmyfollyinhavingplacedmyselfinsuchadangerousposition.Ikeptperfectlystill,however,hardlydaringeventoblinkmyeyes:butthelong-continuedstrainwastellingonmynerves,andmyfeelingsmaybebetterimaginedthandescribedwhenaboutmidnightsuddenlysomethingcameflopand



struckmeonthebackofthehead.ForamomentIwassoterrifiedthatInearlyfellofftheplank,asIthoughtthatthelionhadsprungonmefrombehind.Regainingmysensesinasecondortwo,IrealisedthatIhadbeenhitbynothingmoreformidablethananowl,whichhaddoubtlessmistakenmeforthebranchofatree--notaveryalarmingthingtohappeninordinarycircumstances,Iadmit,butcomingatthetimeitdid,italmostparalysedme.TheinvoluntarystartwhichIcouldnothelpgivingwasimmediatelyansweredbyasinistergrowlfrombelow.

AfterthisIagainkeptasstillasIcould,thoughabsolutelytremblingwithexcitement;andinashortwhileIheardthelionbegintocreepstealthilytowardsme.Icouldbarelymakeouthisformashecrouchedamongthewhitishundergrowth;butIsawenoughformypurpose,andbeforehecouldcomeanynearer,Itookcarefulaimandpulledthetrigger.Thesoundoftheshotwasatoncefollowedbyamostterrificroar,andthenIcouldhearhimleapingaboutinalldirections.Iwasnolongerabletoseehim,however,ashisfirstboundhadtakenhimintothethickbush;buttomakeassurancedoublysure,IkeptblazingawayinthedirectioninwhichIheardhimplungingabout.Atlengthcameaseriesofmightygroans,graduallysubsidingintodeepsighs,andfinallyceasingaltogether;andIfeltconvincedthatoneofthe"devils"whohadsolongharrieduswouldtroubleusnomore.

AssoonasIceasedfiring,atumultofinquiringvoiceswasborneacrossthedarkjunglefromthemenincampaboutaquarterofamileaway.IshoutedbackthatIwassafeandsound,andthatoneofthelionswasdead:whereuponsuchamightycheerwentupfromallthecampsasmusthaveastonishedthedenizensofthejungleformilesaround.ShortlyIsawscoresoflightstwinklingthroughthebushes:everymanincampturnedout,andwithtom-tomsbeatingandhornsblowingcamerunningtothescene.Theysurroundedmyeyrie,andtomyamazementprostratedthemselvesonthegroundbeforeme,salutingmewithcriesof"Mabarak!Mabarak!"whichIbelievemeans"blessedone"or"saviour."Allthesame,Irefusedtoallowanysearchtobemadethatnightforthebodyofthelion,incasehiscompanionmightbe

closeby;besides,itwaspossiblethathemightbestillalive,andcapableofmakingalastspring.Accordinglyweallreturnedintriumphtothecamp,wheregreatrejoicingswerekeptupfortheremainderofthenight,theSwahiliandotherAfricannativescelebratingtheoccasionbyanespeciallywildandsavagedance.

Formypart,Ianxiouslyawaitedthedawn;andevenbeforeitwasthoroughlylightIwasonmywaytotheeventfulspot,asIcouldnotcompletelypersuademyselfthatevenyetthe"devil"mightnothaveeludedmeinsomeuncannyandmysteriousway.Happilymyfearsprovedgroundless,andIwasrelievedtofindthatmyluck--afterplayingmesomanyexasperatingtricks--hadreallyturnedatlast.Ihadscarcelytracedthebloodformorethanafewpaceswhen,onroundingabush,I

wasstartledtoseeahugelionrightinfrontofme,seeminglyaliveandcrouchingforaspring.Onlookingcloser,however,Isatisfiedmyselfthathewasreallyandtrulystone-dead,whereuponmyfollowerscrowdedround,laughedanddancedandshoutedwithjoylikechildren,andboremeintriumphshoulder-highroundthedeadbody.Thesethanksgivingceremoniesbeingover,Iexaminedthebodyandfoundthattwobulletshadtakeneffect--oneclosebehindtheleftshoulder,evidentlypenetratingtheheart,andtheotherintheoffhindleg.Theprizewasindeedonetobeproudof;hislengthfromtipofnosetotipoftailwasninefeeteightinches,hestoodthreefeetnineinches



high,andittookeightmentocarryhimbacktocamp.Theonlyblemishwasthattheskinwasmuchscoredbythebomathornsthroughwhichhehadsooftenforcedhiswayincarryingoffhisvictims.

Thenewsofthedeathofoneofthenotoriousman-eaterssoonspreadfarandwideoverthecountry:telegramsofcongratulationcamepouringin,andscoresofpeopleflockedfromupanddowntherailwaytoseetheskinforthemselves.

CHAPTERIX

THEDEATHOFTHESECONDMAN-EATER

ItmustnotbeimaginedthatwiththedeathofthislionourtroublesatTsavowereatanend;hiscompanionwasstillatlarge,andverysoonbegantomakeusunpleasantlyawareofthefact.OnlyafewnightselapsedbeforehemadeanattempttogetatthePermanentWayInspector,climbingupthestepsofhisbungalowandprowlingroundtheverandah.TheInspector,hearingthenoiseandthinkingitwasadrunkencoolie,shoutedangrily"Goaway!"but,fortunatelyforhim,

didnotattempttocomeoutortoopenthedoor.Thusdisappointedinhisattempttoobtainamealofhumanflesh,thelionseizedacoupleoftheInspector'sgoatsanddevouredthemthereandthen.

Onhearingofthisoccurrence,IdeterminedtositupthenextnightneartheInspector'sbungalow.Fortunatelytherewasavacantironshantycloseathand,withaconvenientloopholeinitforfiringfrom;andoutsidethisIplacedthreefull-growngoatsasbait,tyingthemtoahalf-lengthofrail,weighingabout250lbs.Thenightpasseduneventfullyuntiljustbeforedaybreak,whenatlastthelionturnedup,pouncedononeofthegoatsandmadeoffwithit,atthesametimedraggingawaytheothers,railandall.Ifiredseveralshotsinhisdirection,butitwaspitchdarkandquiteimpossibletoseeanything,

soIonlysucceededinhittingoneofthegoats.Ioftenlongedforaflash-lightonsuchoccasions.

NextmorningIstartedoffinpursuitandwasjoinedbysomeothersfromthecamp.Ifoundthatthetrailofthegoatsandrailwaseasilyfollowed,andwesooncameup,aboutaquarterofamileaway,towherethelionwasstillbusyathismeal.Hewasconcealedinsomethickbushandgrowledangrilyonhearingourapproach;finally,aswegotcloser,hesuddenlymadeacharge,rushingthroughthebushesatagreatpace.Inaninstant,everymanofthepartyscrambledhastilyupthenearesttree,withtheexceptionofoneofmyassistants,Mr.Winkler,whostoodsteadilybymethroughout.Thebrute,however,didnotpresshischargehome:andonthrowingstonesintothebusheswhere

wehadlastseenhim,weguessedbythesilencethathehadslunkoff.Wethereforeadvancedcautiously,andongettinguptotheplacediscoveredthathehadindeedescapedus,leavingtwooffthegoatsscarcelytouched.

Thinkingthatinallprobabilitythelionwouldreturnasusualtofinishhismeal,Ihadaverystrongscaffoldingputupafewfeetawayfromthedeadgoats,andtookupmypositiononitbeforedark.OnthisoccasionIbroughtmygun-bearer,Mahina,totakeaturnatwatching,asIwasbythistimewornoutforwantofsleep,havingspentsomany



nightsonthelook-out.IwasjustdozingoffcomfortablywhensuddenlyIfeltmyarmseized,andonlookingupsawMahinapointinginthedirectionofthegoats."Sher!"("Lion!")wasallhewhispered.Igraspedmydoublesmooth-bore,which,Ihadchargedwithslug,andwaitedpatiently.InafewmomentsIwasrewarded,forasIwatchedthespotwhereIexpectedtheliontoappear,therewasarustlingamongthebushesandIsawhimstealthilyemergeintotheopenandpassalmostdirectlybeneathus.Ifiredbothbarrelspracticallytogetherintohisshoulder,andtomyjoycouldseehimgodownundertheforceoftheblow.QuicklyIreachedforthemagazinerifle,butbeforeIcoulduseit,hewasoutofsightamongthebushes,andIhadtofireafterhimquiteatrandom.NeverthelessIwasconfidentofgettinghiminthemorning,andaccordinglysetoutassoonasitwaslight.Foroveramiletherewasnodifficultyinfollowingtheblood-trail,andashehadrestedseveraltimesIfeltsurethathehadbeenbadlywounded.Intheend,however,myhuntprovedfruitless,forafteratimethetracesofbloodceasedandthesurfaceofthegroundbecamerocky,sothatIwasnolongerabletofollowthespoor.

AboutthistimeSirGuilfordMolesworth,K.C.I.E.,lateConsultingEngineertotheGovernmentofIndiaforStateRailways,passedthroughTsavoonatourofinspectiononbehalfoftheForeignOffice.Afterexaminingthebridgeandotherworksandexpressinghissatisfaction,hetookanumberofphotographs,oneortwoofwhichhehaskindly

allowedmetoreproduceinthisbook.Hethoroughlysympathisedwithusinallthetrialswehadenduredfromtheman-eaters,andwasdelightedthatoneatleastwasdead.WhenheaskedmeifIexpectedtogetthesecondlionsoon,Iwellrememberhishalf-doubtingsmileasIrathertooconfidentlyassertedthatIhopedtobaghimalsointhecourseofafewdays.

Asithappened,therewasnosignofourenemyforabouttendaysafterthis,andwebegantohopethathehaddiedofhiswoundsinthebush.Allthesamewestilltookeveryprecautionatnight,anditwasfortunatethatwedidso,asotherwiseatleastonemorevictimwouldhavebeenaddedtothelist.ForonthenightofDecember27,Iwassuddenlyarousedbyterrifiedshoutsfrommytrolleymen,whosleptin

atreecloseoutsidemyboma,totheeffectthatalionwastryingtogetatthem.Itwouldhavebeenmadnesstohavegoneout,asthemoonwashiddenbydensecloudsanditwasabsolutelyimpossibletoseeanythingmorethanayardinfrontofone;soallIcoulddowastofireoffafewroundsjusttofrightenthebruteaway.Thisapparentlyhadthedesiredeffect,forthemenwerenotfurthermolestedthatnight;buttheman-eaterhadevidentlyprowledaboutforsometime,forwefoundinthemorningthathehadgonerightintoeveryoneoftheirtents,androundthetreewasaregularringofhisfootmarks.

ThefollowingeveningItookupmypositioninthissametree,inthehopethathewouldmakeanotherattempt.Thenightbeganbadly,as,whileclimbinguptomyperchIverynearlyputmyhandonavenomous

snakewhichwaslyingcoiledroundoneofthebranches.Asmaybeimagined,Icamedownagainveryquickly,butoneofmymenmanagedtodespatchitwithalongpole.Fortunatelythenightwasclearandcloudless,andthemoonmadeeverythingalmostasbrightasday.Ikeptwatchuntilabout2a.m.,whenIrousedMahinatotakehisturn.ForaboutanhourIsleptpeacefullywithmybacktothetree,andthenwokesuddenlywithanuncannyfeelingthatsomethingwaswrong.Mahina,however,wasonthealert,andhadseennothing;andalthoughIlookedcarefullyroundusonallsides,Itoocoulddiscovernothingunusual.Onlyhalfsatisfied,Iwasabouttoliebackagain,whenIfanciedI



sawsomethingmovealittlewayoffamongthelowbushes.Ongazingintentlyatthespotforafewseconds,IfoundIwasnotmistaken.Itwastheman-eater,cautiouslystalkingus.

Thegroundwasfairlyopenroundourtree,withonlyasmallbusheveryhereandthere;andfromourpositionitwasamostfascinatingsighttowatchthisgreatbrutestealingstealthilyroundus,takingadvantageofeverybitofcoverashecame.Hisskillshowedthathewasanoldhandattheterriblegameofman-hunting:soIdeterminedtorunnoundueriskoflosinghimthistime.Iaccordinglywaiteduntilhegotquiteclose--abouttwentyyardsaway--andthenfiredmy.303athischest.Iheardthebulletstrikehim,butunfortunatelyithadnoknockdowneffect,forwithafiercegrowlheturnedandmadeoffwithgreatlongbounds.Beforehedisappearedfromsight,however,Imanagedtohavethreemoreshotsathimfromthemagazinerifle,andanothergrowltoldmethatthelastofthesehadalsotakeneffect.

Weawaiteddaylightwithimpatience,andatthefirstglimmerofdawnwesetouttohunthimdown.Itookanativetrackerwithme,sothatIwasfreetokeepagoodlook-out,whileMahinafollowedimmediatelybehindwithaMartinicarbine.Splashesofbloodbeingplentiful,wewereabletogetalongquickly;andwehadnotproceededmorethanaquarterofamilethroughthejunglewhensuddenlyafiercewarninggrowlwasheardrightinfrontofus.Lookingcautiouslythroughthe

bushes,Icouldseetheman-eaterglaringoutinourdirection,andshowinghistusksinanangrysnarl.Iatoncetookcarefulaimandfired.Instantlyhesprangoutandmadeamostdeterminedchargedownonus.Ifiredagainandknockedhimover;butinasecondhewasuponcemoreandcomingformeasfastashecouldinhiscrippledcondition.Athirdshothadnoapparenteffect,soIputoutmyhandfortheMartini,hopingtostophimwithit.Tomydismay,however,itwasnotthere.TheterrorofthesuddenchargehadprovedtoomuchforMahina,andbothheandthecarbinewerebythistimewellontheirwayupatree.Inthecircumstancestherewasnothingtodobutfollowsuit,whichIdidwithoutlossoftime:andbutforthefactthatoneofmyshotshadbrokenahindleg,thebrutewouldmostcertainlyhavehadme.Evenasitwas,Ihadbarelytimetoswingmyselfupoutofhis

reachbeforehearrivedatthefootofthetree.

Whenthelionfoundhewastoolate,hestartedtolimpbacktothethicket;butbythistimeIhadseizedthecarbinefromMahina,andthefirstshotIfiredfromitseemedtogivehimhisquietus,forhefelloverandlaymotionless.Ratherfoolishly,Iatoncescrambleddownfromthetreeandwalkeduptowardshim.Tomysurpriseandnolittlealarmhejumpedupandattemptedanothercharge.Thistime,however,aMartinibulletinthechestandanotherintheheadfinishedhimforgoodandall;hedroppedinhistracksnotfiveyardsawayfromme,anddiedgamely,bitingsavagelyatabranchwhichhadfallentotheground.

Bythistimealltheworkmenincamp,attractedbythesoundofthe

firing,hadarrivedonthescene,andsogreatwastheirresentmentagainstthebrutewhohadkilledsuchnumbersoftheircomradesthatitwasonlywiththegreatestdifficultythatIcouldrestrainthemfromtearingthedeadbodytopieces.Eventually,amidthewildrejoicingsofthenativesandcoolies,Ihadthelioncarriedtomyboma,whichwascloseathand.Onexaminationwefoundnolessthansixbulletholesinthebody,andembeddedonlyalittlewayinthefleshofthebackwastheslugwhichIhadfiredintohimfromthescaffoldingabouttendayspreviously.Hemeasuredninefeetsixinchesfromtipofnosetotipoftail,andstoodthreefeetelevenandahalfincheshigh;



but,asinthecaseofhiscompanion,theskinwasdisfiguredbybeingdeeplyscoredalloverbythebomathorns.

Thenewsofthedeathofthesecond"devil"soonspreadfarandwideoverthecountry,andnativesactuallytravelledfromupanddownthelinetohavealookatmytrophiesandatthe"devil-killer",astheycalledme.Bestofall,thecoolieswhohadabscondedcameflockingbacktoTsavo,andmuchtomyreliefworkwasresumedandwewereneveragaintroubledbyman-eaters.Itwasamusing,indeed,tonoticethechangewhichtookplaceintheattitudeoftheworkmentowardsmeafterIhadkilledthetwolions.Insteadofwishingtomurderme,astheyoncedid,theycouldnotnowdoenoughforme,andasatokenoftheirgratitudetheypresentedmewithabeautifulsilverbowl,aswellaswithalongpoemwritteninHindustanidescribingallourtrialsandmyultimatevictory.Asthepoemrelatesourtroublesinsomewhatquaintandbiblicallanguage,Ihavegivenatranslationofitintheappendix.ThebowlIshallalwaysconsidermymosthighlyprizedandhardestwontrophy.Theinscriptiononitreadsasfollows:--

SIR,--We,yourOverseer,Timekeepers,MistarisandWorkmen,presentyouwiththisbowlasatokenofourgratitudetoyouforyourbraveryinkillingtwoman-eatinglionsatgreatrisktoyourownlife,therebysavingusfromthefateofbeingdevouredbytheseterriblemonsters

whonightlybrokeintoourtentsandtookourfellow-workersfromourside.Inpresentingyouwiththisbowl,wealladdourprayersforyourlonglife,happinessandprosperity.Weshalleverremain,Sir,Yourgratefulservants,

BabooPURSHOTAMHURJEEPURMAR,OverseerandClerkofWorks,onbehalfofyourWorkmen.DatedatTsavo,January30,1899.

BeforeIleavethesubjectof"theman-eatersofTsavo,"itmaybeofinteresttomentionthatthesetwolionspossessthedistinction,

probablyuniqueamongwildanimals,ofhavingbeenspecificallyreferredtointheHouseofLordsbythePrimeMinisteroftheday.SpeakingofthedifficultieswhichhadbeenencounteredintheconstructionoftheUgandaRailway,thelateLordSalisburysaid:--

"Thewholeoftheworkswereputastoptoforthreeweeksbecauseapartyofman-eatinglionsappearedinthelocalityandconceivedamostunfortunatetasteforourporters.Atlastthelabourersentirelydeclinedtogoonunlesstheywereguardedbyanironentrenchment.Ofcourseitisdifficulttoworkarailwayundertheseconditions,anduntilwefoundanenthusiasticsportsmantogetridoftheselions,ourenterprisewasseriouslyhindered."

Also,TheSpectatorofMarch3,1900,hadanarticleentitled"TheLionsthatStoppedtheRailway,"fromwhichthefollowingextractsaretaken:--

"TheparalleltothestoryofthelionswhichstoppedtherebuildingofSamariamustoccurtoeveryone,andiftheSamaritanshadquarterasgoodcausefortheirfearsashadtherailwaycoolies,theirwishtopropitiatethelocaldeitiesiseasilyunderstood.Ifthewholebodyoflionanecdote,fromthedaysoftheAssyrianKingstillthelastyearofthenineteenthcentury,werecollatedandbroughttogether,itwould



notequalintragedyoratrocity,insavagenessorinsheerinsolentcontemptforman,armedorunarmed,whiteorblack,thestoryofthesetwobeasts.

"Towhatadistancethewholestorycarriesusback,andhowimpossibleitbecomestoaccountforthesurvivalofprimitivemanagainstthiskindoffoe!Forfire--whichhashithertobeenregardedashismainsafeguardagainstthecarnivora--thesecarednothing.ItiscuriousthattheTsavolionswerenotkilledbypoison,forstrychnineiseasilyused,andwitheffect.(Imaymentionthatpoisonwastried,butwithouteffect.Thepoisonedcarcasesoftransportanimalswhichhaddiedfromthebiteofthetsetseflywereplacedinlikelyspots,butthewilyman-eaterswouldnottouchthem,andmuchpreferredlivementodeaddonkeys.)Poisonmayhavebeenusedearlyinthehistoryofman,foritspowersareemployedwithstrangeskillbythemeninthetropicalforest,bothinAmericanandWestCentralAfrica.ButthereisnoevidencethattheoldinhabitantsofEurope,orofAssyriaorAsiaMinor,everkilledlionsorwolvesbythismeans.TheylookedtotheKingorchief,orsomechampion,tokillthesemonstersforthem.Itwasnotthesportbutthedutyof.Kings,andwasinitselfatitletobearulerofmen.Theseus,whoclearedtheroadsofbeastsandrobbers;Hercules,thelionkiller;St.George,thedragon-slayer,andalltherestoftheirclassowedtothistheireverlastingfame.FromthestoryoftheTsavoRiverwecanappreciatetheirservicestoman

evenatthisdistanceoftime.Whenthejungletwinkledwithhundredsoflamps,astheshoutwentonfromcamptocampthatthefirstlionwasdead,asthehurryingcrowdsfellprostrateinthemidnightforest,layingtheirheadsonhisfeet,andtheAfricansdancedsavageandceremonialdancesofthanksgiving,Mr.Pattersonmusthaverealisedinnocommonwaywhatitwastohavebeenaheroanddelivererinthedayswhenmanwasnotyetundisputedlordofthecreation,andmightpassatanymomentunderthesavagedominionofthebeasts."

Wellhadthetwoman-eatersearnedallthisfame;theyhaddevouredbetweenthemnolessthantwenty-eightIndiancoolies,inadditiontoscoresofunfortunateAfricannativesofwhomnoofficialrecordwaskept.

CHAPTERX

THECOMPLETIONOFTHETSAVOBRIDGE

Whenalltheexcitementhaddieddownandtherewasnolongeranydreadoftheman-eaters,workwentonbriskly,andthebridgeovertheTsavorapidlynearedcompletion.Asthepiersandabutmentsprogressedinheight,thequestionofhowtoliftthelargestonesintotheir

positionshadtobesolved.Wepossessednocranesforthispurpose,soIsettoworkandimprovisedashearsmadeofacoupleofthirty-footrails.Thesewereboltedtogetheratthetop,whiletheotherendswerefixedatadistanceofabouttenfeetapartinalargeblockofwood.Thiscontrivanceactedcapitally,andbymanipulationofropesandpulleystheheavystoneswereswungintopositionquicklyandwithoutdifficulty,sothatinaveryshorttimethemasonryofthebridgewascompleted.

Thenextbusinesswastospanthesixty-footdistancebetweenthepiers



withirongirders.AsIhadneitherwinchesnorsufficientblocksandtackletohaultheseoverintoposition,Iwasdriventoerecttemporarypiersinthemiddleofeachspan,builtupcrib-shapeofwoodensleepers.Greatwoodenbeamswerestretchedacrossfromthestonepierstothesecribs,andlaidwithrails;andthegirderwasrunoveritsexactplace,whilestillonthetrucksinwhichithadbeenbroughtupfromthecoast.Itwasnext"jacked"upfromthetrucks,whichwerehauledawayempty,thetemporarybridgewasdismantled,andthegirderfinallyloweredgentlyintoposition.Whenthelastgirderwasthussuccessfullyplaced,notimewaslostinlinkingupthepermanentway,andverysoonIhadthesatisfactionofseeingthefirsttraincrossthefinishedwork.

Curiouslyenough,onlyadayorsoafterthebridgehadbeencompletedandtheintermediatecribsclearedaway,atremendousrain-stormbrokeoverthecountry.Theriverstartedtoriserapidly,soonfloodingitsbanksandbecomingaragingmurkytorrent,tearinguptreesbytherootsandwhirlingthemalonglikestraws.Steadilyhigherandhigherrosetheflood,andstandingonmybridge,Iwatchedexpectantlyforthetwotemporarytrolleybridges--which,itwillberemembered,wehadbuiltacrossthestreaminordertobringstoneandsandtothemainwork--togivewaybeforetheever-risingvolumeofwater.NorhadIlongtowait;forIsooncaughtsightofasolidmassofpalmstemsandrailwaysleeperssweepingwithalmostirresistibleforceroundthebend

oftheriversomelittledistanceabovethebridge.ThisIknewwasthedebrisofthetrolleycrossingfurthestuptheriver.Onitcame,andwithitanadditionalbankofstormy-lookingwater.Iheldmybreathforthespaceofamomentasitactuallyleapedatthesecondfrailstructure;therewasadullthudandarendingandrivingoftimbers,andthenthefloodrolledontowardsme,leavingnotavestigeofthetwobridgesbehindit.Theimpact,indeed,wassogreatthattherailsweretwistedroundthebrokentree-trunksasiftheyhadbeensomuchordinarywire.Thedoubletierofwreckagenowsweptforward,andhurleditselfwithasullenplungeagainstthecutwatersofmystonepiers.Theshockwasgreat,buttomyimmensesatisfactionthebridgetookitwithoutatremor,andIsawtheremnantofthetemporarycrossingsswirlthroughthegreatspansandquicklydisappearonits

journeytotheocean.IconfessthatIwitnessedthewholeoccurrencewithathrillofpride.

WewereneverlongwithoutexcitementofsomekindoranotheratTsavo.Whenthecampwasnotbeingattackedbyman-eatinglions,itwasvisitedbyleopards,hyenas,wilddogs,wildcats,andotherinhabitantsofthejunglearoundus.Theseanimalsdidagreatdealofdamagetotheherdsofsheepandgoatswhichwerekepttosupplythecommissariat,andtherewasalwaysgreatrejoicingwhenacapturewasmadeinoneofthemanytrapsthatwerelaidforthem.

Leopardsespeciallyaremostdestructive,oftenkillingsimplyforpleasureandnotforfood:andIhavealwaysharbouredanimosity

towardsthemsincethenightwhenonewantonlydestroyedawholeherdofmine.IhappenedatthetimetohaveaflockofaboutthirtysheepandgoatswhichIkeptforfoodandformilk,andwhichweresecuredatsundowninagrasshutatonecornerofmyboma.Oneparticularlydarknightwewerestartledbyatremendouscommotioninthisshed,butasthiswasbeforetheman-eaterswerekilled,noonedaredstirouttoinvestigatethecauseofthedisturbance.Inaturallythoughtthattheintruderwasoneofthe"demons,"butallIcoulddowastofireseveralshotsinthedirectionofthehut,hopingtofrightenhimaway.Inspiteofthese,however,itwassometimebeforethenoisedieddown



andeverythingbecamestillagain.AssoonasitwasdawnIwenttotheshedtoseewhathadhappened,andthere,tomyintenseanger,Ifoundeveryoneofmysheepandgoatslyingstretcheddead,onthegroundwithitsthroatbittenthrough.Aholehadbeenmadethroughthefrailwalloftheshed,andIsawfromthisandfromthetracksallroundthattheauthorofthewholesaleslaughterhadbeenaleopard.Hehadnoteatenoneoftheflock,buthadkilledthemalloutofpureloveofdestruction.

Ihopedthathewouldreturnthenextnighttomakeameal;andshouldhedoso,Ideterminedtohavemyrevenge.Iaccordinglyleftthecarcasesexactlyastheylay,andhavingaverypowerfulsteeltrap--likeanenormousrat-trap,andquitestrongenoughtoholdaleopardifheshouldputhisfootinit--Iplacedthisintheopeningintotheshedandsecureditbyastoutchaintoalongstakedrivenintothegroundoutside.Darknessfoundeveryoneinmybomaonthealertandlisteninganxiouslytohearthenoisetheleopardwouldmakethemomenthewascaughtinthetrap.Norwerewedisappointed,foraboutmidnightweheardtheclickofthepowerfulspring,followedimmediatelybyfranticroaringandplunging.Ihadbeensittingalleveningwithmyriflebymysideandalanternlighted,soIimmediatelyrushedout,followedbythechaukidar(watchman)carryingthelamp.Asweapproachedtheshed,theleopardmadeafranticspringinourdirectionasfarasthechainwouldallowhim,andthisso

frightenedthechaukidarthathefledinterror,leavingmeinutterdarkness.Thenightwasasblackashadbeenthepreviousone,andIcouldseeabsolutelynothing;butIknewthegeneraldirectioninwhichtofireandaccordinglyemptiedmymagazineatthebeast.AsfarasIcouldmakeout,hekeptdodginginandoutthroughthebrokenwallofthegoat-house;butinashorttimemyshotsevidentlytold,ashisstrugglesceasedandallwasstill.Icalledoutthathewasdead,andatonceeveryoneinthebomaturnedout,bringingallthelanternsintheplace.WiththeotherscamemyIndianoverseer,whoshoutedthathetoowantedrevenge,assomeofthegoatshadbelongedtohim.Whereuponhelevelledhisrevolveratthedeadleopard,andshuttinghiseyestightly,firedfourshotsinrapidsuccession.Naturallynotoneofthesetouchedthebeast,buttheycausedconsiderableconsternation

amongsttheonlookers,whoscatteredrapidlytorightandleft.NextmorningapartyofstarvingWaKambahappenedtobepassingjustasIwasabouttoskintheleopard,andaskedbymeansofsignstobeallowedtodothejobformeandthentotakethemeat.Iofcourseassentedtothisproposal,andinaveryfewminutestheskinhadbeenneatlytakenoff,andthefamishingnativesbeganaravenousmealontherawflesh.

Wilddogsarealsoverydestructive,andoftencausedgreatlossesamongoursheepandgoats.ManyanighthaveIlistenedtotheseanimalshuntingandharryingsomepoorcreatureofthewildsroundmycamp;theyneverrelinquishachase,andwillattackanything,manorbeast,whenreallydrivenbyhunger.IwasatTsavoStationone

day--unfortunatelywithoutmyrifle--whenoneofthesedogscameupandstoodwithinaboutthirtyyardsofme.Hewasafine-lookingbeast,biggerthanacollie,withjet-blackhairandawhite-tippedbushytail.IwasverysorrythatIhadnotbroughtmyrifle,asIbadlywantedaspecimenandneverhadanotherchanceofobtainingone.

CHAPTERXI



THESWAHILIANDOTHERNATIVETRIBES

IhavealwaysbeenverykeenlyinterestedinthedifferentnativeracesofAfrica,andconsequentlyavailedmyselfofeveryopportunityofstudyingtheirmannersandcustoms.IhadlittlescopeforthisatTsavo,however,asthedistrictarounduswaspracticallyuninhabited.StilltherewasofcourseagoodnumberofSwahiliamongmyworkmen,togetherwithafewWaKamba,WaN'yamWezi,andothers,soIsoonbecamemoreorlessacquaintedwiththehabitsofthesetribes.TheSwahililiveprincipallyalongthecoastofBritishEastAfricaandatZanzibar.Theyareamixedrace,beingthedescendantsofArabfathersandnegromothers.TheirnameisderivedfromtheArabicwordsuahil,coast;butithasalsobeensaid,bysomewhohavefoundthemscarcelysoguilelessasmighthavebeenexpected,tobereallyacorruptionofthewordssawahili,thatis,"thosewhocheatallalike."Howeverthatmaybe,themenareasaruleofsplendidphysiqueandwellqualifiedforthecallingthatthemajorityofthemfollow,thatofcaravanporters.Theyareacareless,light-hearted,improvidentpeople,andareveryfondofallthegoodthingsofthisworld,enjoyingthemthoroughlywhenevertheygetthechance.Theirlifeisspentinjourneyingtoandfromtheinterior,carryingheavyloadsofprovisionsandtrade-goodsontheonejourney,andreturningwithsimilarloadsof

ivoryorotherproductsofthecountry.Theyareawayformanymonthsatatimeontheseexpeditions,andconsequently--astheycannotspendmoneyonthemarch--theyhaveagoodlynumberofrupeestodrawontheirreturntoMombasa.Thesegenerallydisappearwithwonderfulrapidity,andwhennomorefuncanbebought,theyjoinanothercaravanandbeginanewsafaritotheGreatLakes,orevenbeyond.ManyatimehaveIwatchedthemtrudgingalongtheoldcaravanroadwhichcrossedtheTsavoatafordabouthalfamilefromtherailwaystation:hereahaltwasalwayscalled,sothattheymightwashandbatheinthecoolwatersoftheriver.

NothingeverseemstodampthespiritsoftheSwahiliporter.Behislifeeversohard,hisloadeversoheavy,themomentitisoffhis

backandhehasdisposedofhisposho(food),hestraightwayforgetsallhistroubles,andbeginstolaughandsingandjokewithhisfellowsasifhewerethehappiestandluckiestmortalalive.Suchwasmycook,Mabruki,andhismerrylaughwasquiteinfectious.Irememberthatonedayhewasopeningatinofbiscuitsforme,andnotbeingabletopullofftheunder-lidwithhisfingers,heseizedtheflapinhismagnificentteethandtuggedatit.Ishoutedtohimtostop,thinkingthathemightbreakatooth;buthemisunderstoodmysolicitudeandgravelyassuredmethathewouldnotspoilthetin!

TheSwahilimenwearalongwhitecottongarment,likeanight-shirt,calledakanzu;thewomen--whoaretooliberallyendowedtobeentirelygraceful--goaboutwithbarearmsandshoulders,andwearalong

brightly-colouredclothwhichtheywindtightlyroundtheirbosomsandthenallowtofalltothefeet.AllarefollowersoftheProphet,andtheirsocialcustomsareconsequentlymuchthesameasthoseofanyotherMohammedanrace,thoughwithagoodadmixtureofsavagedom.TheyhaveahappyknackofgivinganicknametoeveryEuropeanwithwhomtheyhavetodo,suchnicknamegenerallymakingreferencetosomethingpeculiarorstrikinginhishabits,temper,orappearance.Onthewhole,theyareakindly,generousfolk,whomonecannothelpliking.

Ofthemanytribeswhicharetobeseenabouttherailwayonthewayup



fromthecoast,perhapsthemostextraordinary-lookingaretheWaNyika,thepeoplewhoinhabitthethornynyika(wilderness)whichbordersontheTaruDesert.Theyareexceedinglyuglyandofalowtype.Themenwearnothinginthewayofdressbutascantyandverydirtycloththrownovertheshoulders,whilethewomenattirethemselvesonlyinashortkiltwhichistiedroundthemverylowatthewaist.Bothmenandwomenadornthemselveswithbrasschainsroundtheneckandcoilsofcopperandironwireroundthearms.

ThenearestnativeinhabitantstoTsavoaretheWaTaita,whodwellinthemountainsnearN'dii,somethirtymilesaway.Myworkoftentookmetothisplace,andononeofmyvisits,findingmyselfwithsomesparetimeonmyhands,IsetouttopayalongpromisedvisittotheDistrictOfficer.AfairlygoodroadranfromN'diiStationtohishouseatthefootofthemountains,aboutfourmilesaway,andonmyarrivalIwasnotonlymosthospitablyentertainedbutwasalsointroducedtoM'gogo,theHeadChiefoftheWaTaita,whohadjustcomeinforashauri(consultation)aboutsomeaffairofState.Theoldfellowappeareddelightedtomeetme,andpromptlyinvitedmetohiskraal,somewayupthehills.IjumpedattheprospectofseeingtheWaTaitaathome,sopresentlyoffwestartedonourheavyclimb,myIndianservant,Bhawal,comingwithus.Afteracoupleofhours'steadyscrambleupasteepandslipperygoatpath,wearrivedatM'gogo'scapital,whereIwasatonceintroducedtohiswives,whowerebusily

engagedinmakingpombe(anativefermenteddrink)inthehollowed-outstumpofatree.Ipresentedoneofthemwithanorangeforherchild,butshedidnotunderstandwhatitwasforontastingitshemadeawryfaceandwouldnoteatit.Stillshedidnotthrowitaway,butcarefullyputitintoabagwithherothertreasures--doubtlessforfutureinvestigation.AssoonasthewomensawBhawal,however,hebecamethecentreofattraction,andIwaseclipsed.Hehappenedtohaveonanewpuggaree,withlotsofgoldworkonit,andthistooktheirfancyimmensely;theyexaminedeverylinemostcarefullyandwentintoecstasiesoverit--justastheirEuropeansisterswouldhavedoneoverthelatestParisiancreation.

Wemadeashorthaltforrestandrefreshment,andthenstartedagain

onourjourneytothetopofthehills.Afterastiffclimbforanothertwohours,partofitthroughathickblackforest,weemergedonthesummit,whereIfoundIwaswellrewardedformytroublebythemagnificentviewsweobtainedonallsides.ThegreatKilimaN'jarostoodoutparticularlywell,andmadeaveryeffectivebackgroundtothefinepanorama.Iwassurprisedtofindanumberofwell-fedcattleonthemountaintop,butIfancyM'gogothoughtIwascastinganevilspelloverthemwhenhesawmetakingphotographsofthemastheygrazedpeacefullyonthesweetgrasswhichcoveredtheplateau.

LikemostothernativesofAfrica,theWaTaitaareexceedinglysuperstitious,andthisfailingisturnedtogoodaccountbytheall-powerful"witch-doctor"or"medicine-man."Itis,forinstance,an

extraordinarysighttoseetheabsolutefaithwithwhichaKiTaitawillblowthesimba-dawa,or"lionmedicine",tothefourpointsofthecompassbeforelyingdowntosleepintheopen.Thisdawa--whichis,ofcourse,obtainableonlyfromthewitch-doctor--consistssimplyofalittleblackpowder,usuallycarriedinatinyhornstuckthroughaslitintheear;buttheKiTaitafirmlybelievesthatafewgrainsofthisdustblownroundhimfromthepalmofthehandisacompletesafeguardagainstraginglionsseekingwhomtheymaydevour;andaftertheblowingceremonyhewillliedowntosleepinperfectconfidence,eveninthemidstofaman-eater'sdistrict.Inthenatureofthings,



moreover,heneverlosesthistouchingfaithintheefficacyofthewitch-doctor'scharm;forifheisattackedbyalion,thebruteseestoitthathedoesnotlivetobecomeanunbeliever,whileifheisnotattacked,itisofcoursequiteclearthatitistothedawathatheoweshisimmunity.

Fortherest,theWaTaitaareessentiallyapeace-lovingandindustriouspeople;and,indeed,beforethearrivaloftheBritishinthecountry,theyhardlyeverventureddownfromtheirmountainfastnesses,owingtotheirdreadofthewarlikeMasai.Eachmanhasasmanywivesashecanaffordtopayforinsheeporcattle;heprovideseachspousewithaseparateestablishment,butthefamilyhutsareclusteredtogether,andasaruleallliveinperfectharmony.Themostcuriouscustomofthetribeisthefilingofthefrontteethintosharppoints,whichgivesthewholefaceamostpeculiarandratherdiabolicalexpression.Asusual,theirideasofcostumeareratherprimitive;themensometimeswearascrapofclothroundtheloins,whilethewomencontentthemselveswiththesameorwithashortkilt.Bothsexesadornthemselveswithagreatquantityofcopperorironwirecoiledroundtheirarmsandlegs,andsmeartheirbodiesalloverwithgrease,themenaddingredclaytothemixture.Manyofthewomenalsoweardozensofrowsofbeads,whiletheirearsarehungwithpiecesofchainandotherfantasticornaments.Themenalwayscarrybowsandpoisonedarrows,aswellasaseemie(ashort,

roughly-fashionedsword)hungonaleathernthongroundthewaist.Athree-leggedstoolisalsoanimportantpartoftheirequipment,andisslungontheshoulderwhenonthemarch.

ThenextpeoplemetwithontheroadtotheGreatLakesaretheWaKamba,whoinhabittheUkambaniprovince,andmaybeseenfromM'totoAndeitotheAthiRiver.Theyareaverylargetribe,buthavelittlecohesion,beingsplitup,intomanyclansunderchiefswhogoverninapatriarchalkindofway.Inappearanceanddress--orthewantofit--theyareveryliketheWaTaita,andtheyhavethesamecustomoffilingthefrontteeth.Asarule,too,theyareapeace-lovingpeople,thoughwhendriventoitbyhungertheywillcommitverycruelandtreacherousactsofwholesalemurder.Whiletherailwaywasbeing

constructed,aseverefamineoccurredintheirpartofthecountry,whenhundredsofthemdiedofstarvation.Duringthisperiodtheyseveraltimesswoopeddownonisolatedrailwaymaintenancegangsandutterlyannihilatedthem,inordertoobtainpossessionofthefoodwhichtheyknewwouldbestoredinthecamps.Theseattackswerealwaysmadebynight.LikemostothernativeracesinEastAfrica,theironlyarmsarethebowandpoisonedarrow,butintheuseoftheseprimitiveweaponstheyarespeciallyexpert.Thearrow-headremainsinthefleshwhentheshaftiswithdrawn,andifthepoisonisfresh,paralysisanddeathveryquicklyfollow,theskinroundthewoundturningyellowandmortifyingwithinanhourortwo.Thisdeadlypoisonisobtained,Ibelieve,byboilingdownaparticularroot,thearrow-headsbeingdippedintheblack,pitchy-lookingessencewhichremains.Iamgladto

say,however,thatowingtotheestablishmentofseveralMissionStationsamongstthem,theWaKambaarequicklybecomingthemostcivilisednativesinthecountry;andthemissionarieshaveadoptedthesensiblecourseofteachingthepeoplehusbandryandthepracticalartsandcraftsofeverydaylife,inadditiontocaringfortheirspiritualneeds.



CHAPTERXII

ANIGHTAFTERHIPPO

DuringmystayatTsavoImademanylittleexcursionsintothesurroundingcountry,andusedtogooffonashortshootingandexploringexpeditionwheneverIhadtheopportunity.Iwasespeciallyanxioustobagahippopotamus,soImadeupmymindtotrymyluckonthebanksoftheSabaki.Unfortunately,Ipossessednoheavyrifle,whichisalmostanecessityforhipposhooting,butitoccurredtometosupplythedeficiencybymanufacturingafewcartridgesformysmoothbore.IntheseIhaddoublechargesofpowderandahardenedbulletmadeofleadmixedwithaboutaneighthpartoftin.IwellremembertheanxietywithwhichIfiredthefirstroundofmyhome-madeammunition.AsImorethanhalfexpectedthatthebarrelwouldburst,Ilashedthegunintheforkofatree,tiedapieceofstringahundredfeetlongtothetrigger,andthen--takingshelterbehindafriendlystump--pulledoff.Tomygreatsatisfactionthebarrelstoodthetestperfectly.Morethanthat,ontryingthepenetrativeeffectofmybullets,Ifoundthattheywouldsmashthroughasteelplateaneighthofaninchthickatthirtyyards'range.Thiswasquitegoodenoughformypurpose,andgavemegreatconfidenceintheweapon.Allthesame,Ihadaverynarrowescapeonedaywhilemanufacturingsomeofthis

ammunition.Myplanwastoremovetheshotfromthecartridge,putintheadditionalpowder,andramthiswellinbeforereplacingthewadandputtinginthebullet.Ihadclampedmyrefillingmachinetomyrough-hewntable,andwasstampingthedoublechargeofpowderwelldownintothecartridge,whensuddenly,forsomeunknownreason,thewholechargeexplodedrightintomyface.Everythingbecamepitchdarktome,andIgropedmywayaboutthelittlehutinagonyofmindaswellasofbody,forIthoughtIhadbeenblinded.Iamthankfultosay,however,thatgleamsoflightsoonbegantoreturntomyeyes,andinafewhours'timeIwasalmostallrightagainandabletogoonwithmycartridgemaking.

Allmypreparationshavingbeenmade,IsetoutfortheSabaki,taking

withmemyIndiangun-bearerMahina,mycookMabruki,abhisti(water-carrier),andacoupleofnativestocarryouroddsandends.OntheseoccasionsIusuallytooknotent,butbivouackedintheopen.Wetooksomebreadandafewtinnedprovisionswithus,butIcouldalwaysdependupongettingapaa,guinea-fowl,partridgeorrock-rabbitforthelarderonthemarch.Theserock-rabbitsaremorelikebigratsthanrabbits,andarefoundingreatnumbersamongtherocksalongthebanksoftherivers.Theyarenotatallbadeating,buttheSwahiliwillnottouchthem.Theycallthemtupu(shameless,nakedthings),owingtotheirlackofatail,ofwhichindeedtheypossessnotevenavestige.

OurroutelaybythealwaysinterestingTsavoRiver.Alongthebankseverythingwithinreachofitsmoistureisdelightfullyfreshand

green.Palmsandothertrees,festoonedwithbrilliantfloweringcreepers,flourishalongitscourse;allkindsofmonkeyschatterandjabberintheshadeoverheadastheyswingthemselvesfrombranchtobranch,whilebirdsofthemostgorgeousplumageflutterabout,givingaverytropicalaspecttothescene.Ontheotherhand,ifoneistemptedtostrayawayfromtheriver,beitonlyforafewyards,onecomesimmediatelyintotheparched,thornywildernessofstunted,leaflesstrees.Herethesunbeatsdownpitilessly,andmakesthenyikaoftheTsavovalleyalmostintolerable.Theriverhasitssourceatthefootofsnow-crownedKilimaN'jaro,whenceitflowsforabouteighty



milesinanortherlydirectionuntilitjoinstheAthiRiver,aboutsevenmilesbelowTsavoStation.FromthispointtheunitedstreamstakethenameofSabakiandflowmoreorlesseastwardsuntiltheyreachtheIndianOceanatMalindi,someseventymilesnorthofMombasa.

AnarrowandtortuousMasaiwarpathwindsalongitswholelength,butalthoughwefollowedthistrailourjourneywasneverthelessaveryslowone,owingtotheoverhangingbranchesandcreepers,fromwhichwehadconstantlytobedisengaged.Themarchwasfullofinterest,however,foritwasnotlongbeforewecameuponfreshtracksbothofhippoandrhino.Everynowandagain,also,wecaughtglimpsesofstartledbush-buckandwater-buck,whileoccasionallythesoundofasplashinthewatertoldofawarycrocodile.WehadgoneabouthalfthedistancetotheSabakiwhenwecameuponanunexpectedobstacleintheshapeofagreatridgeofbarren,ruggedrock,aboutahundredfeethigh,whichextendedforaboutamileorsoonbothbanksoftheriver.Thesidesofthisgorgewentsheerdownintothewater,andwerequiteimpossibletoscale.Ithereforedeterminedtomakeadetourroundit,butMahinawasconfidentthathecouldwalkalongintheriveritself.Ihintedmildlyatthepossibilityoftherebeingcrocodilesundertherockyledges.Mahinadeclared,however,thattherewasnodanger,andmakingabundleofhislowergarments,hetiedittohisbackandsteppedintothewater.Forafewminutesallwentwell.Then,inaninstant,hewasliftedrightoffhisfeetbytherushofthewaterand

whirledaway.Therivertookasharpbendinthisgorge,andhewasrounditandoutofoursightinnotime,thelastglimpsewecaughtofhimshowinghimvainlytryingtocatchholdofanoverhangingbranch.Althoughweatoncemadeallthehastewecouldtogetroundtheridgeofrocks,ittookusnearlyhalfanhourtodoit.IhadalmostgivenuphopeofeverseeingMahinaagain,andwasmuchrelieved,therefore,whenwereachedtheriver-sideoncemore,tofindhimsafeandsound,andlittletheworseforhisadventure.Luckilyhehadbeendashedupagainstarushybank,andhadmanagedtoscrambleoutwithnomoreseriousdamagethanabruisedshin.

EventuallywearrivedatthejunctionoftheriversandproceededsomewaydowntheSabaki,besidewhichtheTsavolooksveryinsignificant.

Severalislandsaredottedaboutinmid-streamandareovergrownwithtallreedsandrushes,inwhichhippofindcapitalcovertalltheyearround.AswiththeTsavo,thebanksoftheSabakiarelinedwithtreesofvariouskinds,affordingmostwelcomeshadefromtheheatofthesun:andskirtingtheriverisacaravanroadfromtheinterior--stillused,Ibelieve,forsmugglingslavesandivorytothecoast,wheredhowsareinreadinesstoconveythemtoPersiaorArabia.

Afteranearlydinner,whichMabrukisoongotready,Ileftmyfollowersencampedinasafebomaamileawayfromtheriver,andstartedoutwithMahinatofindasuitabletree,nearahippo"run",inwhichtospendthenight.Havingsomedifficultyinfindingalikelyspot,wecrossedtotheothersideoftheriver--ratherariskything

todoonaccountofthenumberofcrocodilesinit:wefoundafairlyshallowford,however,andmanagedtogetsafelyover.Here,onwhatwasevidentlyanislandduringfloodtime,wefoundinnumerabletracesofbothhippoandrhino--infactthedifficultywastodecidewhichtrackwasthebestandfreshest.AtlengthIpickedoutatreeclosetotheriverandcommandingastretchofsandwhichwasallflatteneddownandlookedasifatleastonehipporolledthereregularlyeverynight.

Astherewasstillaboutanhourbeforesundown,wedidnottakeupourstationatonce,butproceededalongthebanktoseeifanyothergame



wasabout.WehadnotgoneveryfarwhenMahina,whowasalittlewayahead,signalledtome,andonjoininghimIsawasplendid-lookingwater-buckstandinginashallowpooloftheriver.ItwasthefirsttimeIhadseenoneofthesefineantelope,andIwasdelightedwiththesight.Imighthavegottwentyyardsorsonearer,butIthoughtIhadbetternotriskmoving,soIaimedattheshoulderandfired.Thebuckgaveoneleapintotheair,andthenturnedandgallopedquicklybehindanislandwhichcompletelyhidhimfromview.Wewaitedforhimtocleartherushesattheotherendofthisisland,butashedidnotappearIgotimpatientandplungedintotheriver,regardlessofcrocodilesoranythingelse.Onroundingtheisland,however,hewasnowheretobeseen,andhadevidentlyturnedoffwhileintheshelterofthereedsandsogainedtheoppositebank.Iwaskeenlydisappointedatmyfailure,foritwasimpossibletofollowhimup:todosoweshouldhavehadtomakealongdetourtogetacrosstheriver,andbythattimedarknesswouldhavesetin.Thisincidentshowsthegreatdrawbacktothe.303--namely,thatithasverylittleknock-downeffectunlessitstrikesavitalpart;andeventhen,inabushcountry,ananimalmaymanagetogofarenoughtobelost.Ontheotherhand,ananimalwoundedwithahardbulletislikelytomakeaspeedyrecovery,whichisagreatblessing.

MahinawasevenmoreupsetattheescapeofthebuckthanIwas,andaswetrudgedbackthroughthesandtoourtree,hewasfullofgloomy

forebodingsofanunluckynight.Bythelightofasplendidfullmoonwesettledourselvesonagreatoutspreadingbranch,andcommencedourvigil.Soonthejunglearoundusbegantobealivewithitspeculiarsounds--anightbirdwouldcall,acrocodileshuthisjawswithasnap,orarhinoorhippocrashthroughthebushesonitswaytothewater:nowandagainwecouldevenhearthedistantroarofthelion.Stilltherewasnothingtobeseen.

Afterwaitingforsomeconsiderabletime,agreathippoatlastmadehisappearanceandcamesplashingalonginourdirection,butunfortunatelytookuphispositionbehindatreewhich,inthemosttantalisingway,completelyhidhimfromview.Herehestoodtootingandsnortingandsplashingabouttohisheart'scontent.Forwhat

seemedhoursIwatchedforthisungainlycreaturetoemergefromhiscovert,butasheseemeddeterminednottoshowhimselfIlostpatienceandmadeupmymindtogodownafterhim.IthereforehandedmyrifletoMahinatolowertomeonreachingtheground,andbegantodescendcarefully,holdingonbythecreeperswhichencircledthetree.Tomyintensevexationanddisappointment,justasIwasinthishelplesscondition,half-waytotheground,thegreathipposuddenlycameoutfromhisshelterandcalmlylumberedalongrightunderneathme.Ibitterlylamentedmyill-luckandwantofpatience,forIcouldalmosthavetouchedhisbroadbackashepassed.ItwasundertheseexasperatingconditionsthatIsawahippoforthefirsttime,andwithoutdoubtheistheugliestandmostforbiddinglookingbruteIhaveeverbeheld.

Themomentthegreatbeasthadpassedourtree,hescentedus,snortedloudly,anddivedintothebushescloseby,smashingthroughthemlikeatractionengine.Inscrewingmyselfroundtowatchhimgo,IbrokethecreepersbywhichIwasholdingonandlandedonmybackinthesandatthefootofthetree--nonetheworseformyshortdrop,butconsiderablystartledatthethoughtthatthehippomightcomebackatanymoment.Iclimbeduptomyperchagainwithoutlossoftime,buthewasevidentlyasmuchfrightenedasIwas,andreturnednomore.Shortlyafterthiswesawtworhinocomedowntotherivertodrink;



theyweretoofaroffforashot,however,soIdidnotdisturbthem,andtheygraduallywaddledup-streamoutofsight.Thenweheardtheawe-inspiringroarofahungrylioncloseby,andpresentlyanotherhippogaveforthhistootingchallengealittlewaydowntheriver.Asthereseemednolikelihoodofgettingashotathimfromourtree,Imadeupmymindtostalkhimonfoot,sowebothdescendedfromourperchandmadeourwayslowlythroughthetreesinthesemi-darkness.Therewerenumbersofanimalsabout,andIamsurethatneitherofusfeltverycomfortableaswecreptalonginthedirectionofthesplashinghippo;formyownpartIfanciedeverymomentthatIsawinfrontofmetheformofarhinooralionreadytochargedownuponusoutoftheshadowofthebush.

Inthismanner,withnervesstrungtothehighestpitch,wereachedtheedgeoftheriverinsafety,onlytofindthatwewereagainbaulkedbyasmallrush-coveredisland,ontheothersideofwhichourquarrycouldbeheard.Therewasagoodbreezeblowingdirectlyfromhim,however,soIthoughtthebestthingtodowastoattempttogetontotheislandandtohaveashotathimfromthere.Mahina,too,waseagerforthefray,soweletourselvesquietlyintothewater,whichherewasquiteshallowandreachedonlytoourknees,andwadedslowlyacross.Onpeeringcautiouslythroughthereedsatthecorneroftheisland,IwassurprisedtofindthatIcouldseenothingofthehippo;butIsoonrealisedthatIwaslookingtoofarahead,foronlowering

myeyestherehewas,nottwenty-fiveyardsaway,lyingdownintheshallowwater,onlyhalfcoveredandpracticallyfacingus.Hisclosenesstousmademeratheranxiousforoursafety,moreespeciallyasjustthenherosetohisfeetandgaveforththepeculiarchallengeorcallwhichwehadalreadyheardsooftenduringthenight.Allthesame,asheraisedhishead,Ifiredatit.Hewhirledround,madeaplungeforward,staggeredandfell,andthenlayquitestill.Tomakeassurancedoublysure,Igavehimacouplemorebulletsashelay,butwefoundafterwardsthattheywerenotneeded,asmyfirstshothadbeenaveryluckyoneandhadpenetratedthebrain.Welefthimwherehefellandgotbacktoourperch,gladandrelievedtobeinsafetyoncemore.

AssoonasitwasdaylightwewerejoinedbymyownmenandbyseveralWaKamba,whohadbeenhuntingintheneighbourhood.Thenativescutoutthetusksofthehippo,whichwererathergoodones,andfeastedravenouslyontheflesh,whileIturnedmyattentionwithgratitudetothehotcoffeeandcakeswhichMabrukihadmeanwhileprepared.

CHAPTERXIII

ADAYONTHEN'DUNGUESCARPMENT

Immediatelyafterbreakfastcampwasstruck,andaccompaniedbyafewoftheWaKamba,westartedofffortheN'dunguEscarpment--afrowningridgewhichrunsforagreatdistanceparalleltotheSabaki,somethreeorfourmilesfromitsnorthernbank.WehadnotgoneveryfarbeforeIcaughtsightofafinewaterbuckandsuccessfullybowledhimover--agoodomenfortheday,whichputusallinexcellentspirits.Mabrukicutoffseveralstripsofthetoughmeatandimpaledthemonasharpsticktodryinthesunashewentalong.Iwarnedhimthathehadbetterbecarefulthataliondidnotscentthemeat,asifitdid



itwouldbesuretofollowupandkillhim.OfcourseIdidnotmeanthisseriously;butMabrukiwasagreatglutton,andbynomeanscourageous,soIwantedtofrightenhim.

Aswetrudgedalongtowardsthehill,Iheardapeculiarnoisebehindasmallrisingonourright,andonlookingoverthecrest,Iwasdelightedtoseetwobeautifulgiraffefeedingpeacefullyalittledistanceawayandstrainingtheirlongneckstogetatthetopsofsomemimosa-liketrees,whileayoungonewaslyingdowninthegrassquiteclosetome.ForsometimeIremainedconcealed,watchingthefull-grownpairwithgreatinterest:theyhadevidentlyjustcomeupfromtheriver,andwereslowlymakingtheirwaybacktotheirhomeontheescarpment.Theyseemedonthemostaffectionateterms,occasionallyentwiningtheirgreatlongnecksandgentlybitingeachotherontheshoulders.MuchasIshouldhavelikedtohaveaddedagiraffetomycollectionoftrophies,Ileftthemundisturbed,asIthinkitapitytoshoottheseratherrareandveryharmlesscreatures,unlessoneisrequiredforaspecialpurpose.

Wepushedon,accordingly,towardstheescarpment,forIwasveryimpatienttogettothetopandexploreaplacewhereIfeltconvincednootherwhitemanhadeversetfoot.Fromtheriverthegroundrosegentlyupwardstothefootoftheridge,andwascoveredmoreorlessdenselywithstuntedtreesandbushes,andofcoursetheinevitable

"wait-a-bit"thorns.Iwasfortunateenough,however,tofindarhinopathwhichaffordedafairlycomfortableandopenroad,onwhichwecouldwalkuprightthegreaterpartoftheway.Theclimbuptheescarpmentitselfwasastiffone,andhadtobenegotiatedprincipallyonall-fours,butonthewayupIdiscoveredthattherewasanenormouscleftsomemilestotherightwhichwouldprobablyhaveaffordedaneasierascent.Ihadnottimetoexploreitonthisparticularday,butImadeamentalnotetodosoonsomefutureoccasion.

Afteratwohours'journeyfromtheriverwesatpantingonthesummitafterourscrambleandsurveyedthevalleyoftheTsavo,whichlayspreadoutlikeamapaboutfivehundredfeetbelowus.Ourhometents,thebridge,TsavoStationandotherbuildingswereplainlyvisible,and

therailwayitself,likeashiningsnake,couldbeseenformanymileswindingitswaythroughtheparchedwilderness.Havingtakenafewphotographsofthescene,weturnedandstruckthroughtheN'dunguPlateau.HereIfoundthesamekindofnyikaasthatroundTsavo,theonlydifferencebeingthatthereweremoregreentreesabout.Thecountry,moreover,wassomewhatmoreopen,andwasintersectedbyhundredsofbroadandwell-beatenanimalpaths,alongwhichwecouldwalkuprightincomfort.Iwasleadingtheway,followedcloselybyMahinaandMabruki,whensuddenlywealmostwalkeduponalionwhichwaslyingdownatthesideofthepathandwhichhadprobablybeenasleep.Itgaveafiercegrowlandatonceboundedoffthroughthebush;buttoMabruki--whodoubtlessrecalledthenthewarningIhadgivenhiminfunearlierintheday--theincidentappearedsoalarming

thatheflungdownhisstick-loadofmeatandfledforhislife,muchtotheamusementoftheothers,eventheusuallysilentWaKambajoininginthegenerallaughterastheyscrambledforthediscardedmeat.Wesawnothingmoreofthelion,thoughafewstepsfurtheronbroughtustotheremainsofazebrawhichhehadrecentlykilledandfeastedon;butafterthisMabrukikeptcarefullyintherear.Curiouslyenough,onlyashortwhilelaterwehadanexactlysimilaradventurewitharhino,asowingtothetortuousnatureofthepath,wewalkedrightintoitbeforewewereaware.Likethelion,however,itwasmorefrightenedthanwe,andchargedawayfromusthroughthe



jungle.

Forabouttwohourswepursuedourjourneyintotheplateau,andsawandheardawonderfulvarietyofgame,includinggiraffe,rhino,bush-buck,thelesserkudu,zebra,wart-hog,baboonsandmonkeys,andanynumberofpaa,thelastbeingofareddercolourthanthoseoftheTsavovalley.Ofnativesorofhumanhabitations,however,wesawnosigns,andindeedthewholeregionwassodryandwaterlessastobequiteuninhabitable.TheanimalsthatrequirewaterhavetomakeanightlyjourneytoandfromtheSabaki,whichaccountsforthethousandsofanimalpathsleadingfromtheplateautotheriver.

Bythistimewewereallbeginningtofeelverytired,andthebhisti'sstockofwaterwasrunninglow.IthereforeclimbedthehighesttreeIcouldfindinordertohaveagoodlookround,butabsolutelynothingcouldIseeinanydirectionbutthesameflatthornywilderness,interspersedhereandtherewithafewgreentrees;notalandmarkofanysortorkindasfarastheeyecouldreach;amosthopeless,terribleplaceshouldonebelostinit,withcertaindeatheitherbythirstorbysavagebeastsstaringoneintheface.Clearly,then,theonlythingtodowastoreturntotheriver;andinordertoaccomplishthisbeforedarkitwasnecessarythatnotimeshouldbelost.ButwehadbeenwindinginandoutsomuchthroughtheanimalpathsthatitwasnoeasymattertosayinwhichdirectiontheSabakilay.FirstI

consultedmyWaKambafollowersastotherouteback,theysimplyshooktheirheads.ThenIaskedMahina,whopointedoutadirectionexactlyoppositetothatwhichIfeltconfidentwastherightone.Mabruki,ofcourse,knewnothing,butvolunteeredthehelpfulandcheeringinformationthatwewerelostandwouldallbekilledbylions.Inthesecircumstances,Iconfirmedmyownideaastoourwaybycomparingmywatchandthesun,andgavetheordertostartatonce.Fortwosolidhours,however,wetrudgedalonginthefearfulheatwithoutstrikingasinglefamiliarobjectorlandmark.Mabrukimurmuredloudly;evenMahinaexpressedgravedoubtsastowhetherthe"Sahib"hadtakentherightdirection;onlytheWaKambastalkedalonginreassuringsilence.Forsometimewehadbeenfollowingabroadwhiterhinopath,andthegreatfootmarks,ofoneofthesebeastswerefreshandplainly

visibleinthedust.Hehadbeentravellingintheoppositedirectiontous,andIfeltsurethathemusthavebeenreturningfromdrinkingintheriver.Iaccordinglyinsistedonourkeepingtothispath,andverysoon,tomygreatrelief,wefoundthatwewereattheedgeoftheescarpment,acoupleofmilesawayfromtheplacewherewehadmadetheascent.Hereahaltwascalled;asheetwasspreadoversomeofthestuntedtrees,andunderitsshadewerestedforhalfanhour,hadsomefood,anddrankthelastofourwater.Afterthiswepushedonwithrenewedvigour,andarrivedattheSabakiingoodtimebeforesundown,havingbaggedacoupleofguinea-fowlandapaaonthewaytoservefordinner.Afterthelongandfatiguingdaymybatheinaclearshadypoolwasarealdelight,butImightnothaveenjoyeditquitesomuchifIhadknownthenoftheterriblefatewhichawaitedoneofmyfollowers

inthesameriverthenextday.BythetimeIgotbacktocampsupperwasreadyandfullyappreciated.ThetirelessMahinahadalsocollectedsomedrygrassformybed,andIturnedinatonce,withmyriflehandy,andsleptthesleepofthejust,regardlessofallthewildbeastsinAfrica.

AtdawnMabrukirousedmewithacupofsteaminghotcoffeeandsomebiscuits,andastartwasatoncemadeonourreturnjourneytoTsavo.TheplacewherewehadstrucktheSabakithepreviouseveningwassomemilesfurtherdownthestreamthanIhadeverbeenbefore,soIdecided



totakeadvantageoftheMasaitrailalongitsbankuntiltheTsavoRiverwasreached.Ididnotthinkweshouldmeetwithanyfurtheradventureonourwayhome,butinthewildstheunexpectedisalwayshappening.ShortlyafterwestartedoneoftheWaKambawentdowntotheriver'sedgetofillhiscalabashwithwater,whenacrocodilesuddenlyroseupoutofthestream,seizedthepoorfellowandinamomenthaddraggedhimin.Iwasonaheadatthetimeandsodidnotwitnesstheoccurrence,butonhearingthecriesoftheothersIranbackasquicklyaspossible--toolate,however,toseeanysignofeithercrocodileornative.Mahinaphilosophicallyremarkedthatafterallitwasonlyawashenzi(savage),whoselossdidnotmuchmatter;andtheotherthreeWaKambacertainlydidnotappeartobeaffectedbytheincident,butcalmlypossessedthemselvesoftheirdeadcompanion'sbowandquiverofpoisonedarrows,andofthestockofmeatwhichhehadleftonthebank.

Ihavesincelearnedthataccidentsofthiskindareoffairlyfrequentoccurrencealongthebanksoftheserivers.OnoneoccasionwhileIwasinthecountryaBritishofficerhadaveryluckyescape.Hewasfillinghiswaterbottleattheriver,whenoneofthesebrutescaughthimbythehandandattemptedtodrawhimin.Fortunatelyoneofhisservantsrushedtohisassistanceandmanagedtopullhimoutofthecrocodile'sclutcheswiththelossonlyoftwoofhisfingers.

AswemadeourwayuptheSabaki,wediscoveredabeautifulwaterfallaboutahundredandfiftyfeethigh--notasheerdrop,butaseriesofcascades.Atthistimetheriverwasinlowwater,andthefallsconsequentlydidnotlooktheirbest;butinfloodtimetheyformafinesight,andthethunderofthefallingwatercanthenbeplainlyheardatTsavo,oversevenmilesaway,whenthewindisintherightdirection.Wecrossedtheriverontherocksattheheadofthesefalls,andaftersomehours'hardmarchingreachedcampwithoutfurtherincident.

CHAPTERXIV

THEFINDINGOFTHEMAN-EATERS'DEN

Thereweresomerocky-lookinghillslyingtothesouth-westofTsavowhichIwasparticularlyanxioustoexplore,soononeoccasionwhenworkhadbeenstoppedforthedayowingtolackofmaterial,Isetoffforthem,accompaniedbyMahinaandaPunjaubicoolie,whowassostoutthathewentbythenameofMoota(i.e."Fattie").InthecourseofmylittleexcursionsroundTsavoIgraduallydiscoveredthatIwasnearlyalwaysabletomakemywaytoanyrequiredpointofthecompassbyfollowingcertainwell-definedanimalpaths,whichImappedoutbitby

bitduringmyexplorations.Onthisoccasion,forinstance,assoonaswehadcrossedtheriverandhadstruckintothejungle,wewerefortunateenoughtofindarhinopathleadingintherightdirection,whichgreatlyfacilitatedourprogress.Asweweremakingourwayalongthispaththroughthedrybedofanullah,Ihappenedtonoticethatthesandybottomsparkledhereandtherewherethesunbeamspenetratedthedensefoliage.Thisatoncefilledmyheadwiththoughtsofpreciousstones,andasthespotlookedlikelyenough,Istartedtodigvigorouslyatthegravelwithmyhuntingknife.Afterafewminutesofthiswork,IcameacrosswhatIatfirsttooktobeamagnificent



diamondsparklinginthedampsand:itwasabouthalfaninchlong,anditsfacetslookedasiftheyhadbeencutbyanAmsterdamexpert.Itestedthestoneonmywatchglassandfoundthatitcutmyinitialsquiteeasily,andthoughIknewthatquartzwoulddothisaswell,itdidnotseemtometohaveeitherthegeneralappearanceoranglesofanyquartzIhadeverseen.ForamomentortwoIwasgreatlydelightedwithmydiscovery,andbegantohaverosydreamsofadiamondmine;butIamsorrytosaythatoncloserexaminationandtestingIwasforcedtotheconclusionthatmyfindwasnotadiamond,thoughunlikeanyothermineralIhadevercomeacross.

Myhopesofrapidlybecomingamillionairehavingthusbeendashedtotheground,weproceededonourway,gettingfurtherandfurtherintothedepthsofagloomyforest.Alittledistanceon,Inoticedthroughabreakinthetreesahugerhinostandinginfullviewneartheedgeofaravine.Unfortunatelyhecaughtsightofusaswell,andbeforeIcouldtakeaim,hesnortedloudlyandcrashedoffthroughthetangledundergrowth.AsIfollowedupthisravine,walkingstealthilyalonginthedelightfulshadeoftheoverhangingpalms,Iobservedonmyleftalittlenullahwhichopenedoutofthemainchannelthroughaconfusedmassofjungleandcreeper.Throughthistangletherewasawell-definedarchway,doubtlessmadebytheregularpassageofrhinoandhippo,soIdecidedtoenterandexplorewhatlaybeyond.IhadnotgoneveryfarwhenIcameuponabigbayscoopedoutofthebankbythe

streamwheninfloodandcarpetedwithadepositoffine,softsand,inwhichweretheindistincttracksofnumberlessanimals.Inonecornerofthisbay,closeunderanoverhangingtree,stoodalittlesandyhillock,andonlookingoverthetopofthisIsawontheothersideafearsome-lookingcavewhichseemedtorunbackforaconsiderabledistanceundertherockybank.RoundtheentranceandinsidethecavernIwasthunderstrucktofindanumberofhumanbones,withhereandthereacopperbanglesuchasthenativeswear.Beyondalldoubt,theman-eaters'den!Inthismanner,andquitebyaccident,Istumbleduponthelairoftheseonce-dreaded"demons",whichIhadspentsomanydayssearchingforthroughtheexasperatingandinterminablejungleduringthetimewhentheyterrorisedTsavo.Ihadnoinclinationtoexplorethegloomydepthsoftheinterior,butthinkingthattheremight

possiblystillbealionessorcubinside,Ifiredashotortwointothecavernthroughaholeintheroof.Saveforaswarmofbats,nothingcameout;andaftertakingaphotographofthecave,Igladlyleftthehorriblespot,thankfulthatthesavageandinsatiablebruteswhichonceinhabiteditwerenolongeratlarge.

Retracingmystepstothemainravine,Icontinuedmyjourneyalongit.AfteralittlewhileIfanciedIsawahippoamongsometallrushesgrowingonthebank,andquicklysignedtoMahinaandMootatostayperfectlystill.Ithenmadeacarefulstalk,onlytodiscover,afterallmytrouble,thatmyeyeshaddeceivedmeandmademeimagineablackbankandafewrushestobealivinganimal.Wenowleftthebedoftheravine,andadvancedalongthetop.Thisturnedouttobeagood

move,forsoonweheardthegallopingofaherdofsomeanimalorotheracrossourfront.Irushedroundacornerinthepathafewyardsahead,andcrouchingunderthebushessawalineofstartledzebrasflyingpast.ThiswasthefirsttimeIhadseenthesebeautifullymarkedanimalsintheirwildstate,soIselectedthelargestandfired,andasIwasquiteclosetothemhedroppedinhistracksstone-dead.WhenIstoodoverthehandsomecreatureIwaspositivelysorryforhavingkilledhim.NotsoMoota,however,whorushedupinecstasy,andbeforeIcouldstophimhadcuthisthroat.Thiswasdone,asheremarked,"tomakethemeatlawful,"forMootawasadevout



followeroftheProphet,andnotrueMohammedanwilleatthefleshofanyanimalunlessthethroathasbeencutattheproperplaceandthebloodallowedtoflow.Thiscustomhasoftencausedmegreatannoyance,forMohammedanfollowersrushinsoquicklywhenananimalisshotandcuttheheadoffsoshortthatitisafterwardsquiteuselessasatrophy.

Bythetimethezebrawasskinned,darknesswasfastapproaching,soweselectedasuitabletreeinwhichtopassthenight.Underitwebuiltagoodlyfire,madesometea,androastedacoupleofquailswhichIhadshotearlyinthedayandwhichprovedsimplydelicious.Wethenbetookourselvestothebranches--atleast,MahinaandIdid;Mootawasafraidofnothing,andsaidhewouldsleepontheground.Hewasnotsofullofcouragelateron,however,foraboutmidnightagreatrhinopassedourway,windedusandsnortedsoloudlythatMootascrambledinabjectterrorupourtree.Hewasasnimbleasamonkeyforallhisstoutness,andneverceasedclimbinguntilhewasfaraboveus.Webothlaughedheartilyathisextraordinaryhastetogetoutofdanger,andMahinachaffedhimunmercifully.

Therestofthenightpassedwithoutincident,andintheearlymorning,whiletheboyswerepreparingbreakfast,IstrolledofftowardstherockyhillswhichIhadseenfromTsavo,andwhichwerenowonlyabouthalfamiledistant.Ikeptasharplook-outforgame,but

cameacrossnothingsavehereandthereapaaandafewguinea-fowl,until,justasIwasabouthalf-wayroundthehill,Isawafineleopardlyingonarockyledgebaskinginthemorningsun.Buthewastooquickforme,andmadeoffbeforeIcouldgetashot;Ihadnotapproachednoiselesslyenough,andaleopardistoowaryabeasttobecaughtnapping.UnfortunatelyIhadnomoretimeatmydisposalinwhichtoexplorethesehills,asIwasanxioustoresumeworkatTsavoassoonaspossible;soafterbreakfastwepackedupthezebraskinandbegantoretraceourstepsthroughthejungle.Itwasanintenselyhotday,andwewereallverygladwhenatlengthwereachedthehomecamp.

Mostofmylittletripsofthissort,however,weremadeinanortherlydirection,towardstheever-interestingAthiorSabakirivers.Aftera

longandtiringwalkthroughthejunglewhatapleasureitwastolieupinthefriendlyshelteroftherusheswhichlinethebanks,andwatchtheanimalscomedowntodrink,allunconsciousofmypresence.Itookseveralphotographsofscenesofthiskind,butunfortunatelymanyofthenegativeswerespoiled.Often,too,onabrilliantmoonlightnighthaveIsatonarockoutinthemiddleofthestream,nearafavouritedrinkingplace,waitingforashotatwhateverfortunemightsendmyway.Howexasperatingitwas,whenthewindchangedatthecriticalmoment,andgavemeawaytotherhinoorotheranimalIhadsatthereforhourspatientlyawaiting!OccasionallyIwouldgetheartilytiredofmywearyvigilandwouldwadeashorethroughthewarmwater,tomakemybedinthesoftsandregardlessofthesnap,snapofthecrocodileswhichcouldplainlybeheardfromthedeeperpoolsup

anddowntheriver.Atthetime,beingnewtothecountry,IdidnotrealisetherisksIran;butlateron--aftermypoorWaKambafollowerhadbeenseizedanddraggedunder,asIhavealreadydescribed--Ilearnedtobemuchmorecautious.

TheshortestwayofreachingtheAthiriverfromTsavowastostrikethroughthejungleinanorth-westerlydirection,andheretherewasluckilyaparticularlywell-definedrhinopathwhichIalwaysmadeuseof.IdiscovereditquitebyaccidentononeoccasionwhenIhadaskedsomeguests,whowerestayingwithmeatTsavo,tospendanightonthe



banksoftheriver.Asweweremakingourwayslowlyandpainfullythroughthedensejungle,Icameacrossthiswell-troddenpath,whichappearedtoleadinthedirectioninwhichIwishedtogo,andasIfeltconvincedthatatanyrateitwouldbringustotheriversomewhere,Ifolloweditwithconfidence.Ourprogresswasnoweasy,andthetrackledthroughfairlyopengladeswheretracesofbush-buckandwater-buckwerenumerous;indeedonceortwicewecaughtglimpsesoftheseanimalsastheyboundedawaytotheshelterofthethicket,warnedbythesoundofourapproach.Intheend,asIanticipated,theoldrhinopathprovedatrueguide,foritstrucktheAthiatanidealspotforacampingground,wheresomeloftytreesclosetothebankoftherivergaveamostgratefulandrefreshingshade.Wehadadelightfulpicnic,andmyguestsgreatlyenjoyedtheirnightintheopen,althoughoneofthemgotratherabadfrightfromarhinowhichsuddenlysnortedclosetoourcamp,evidentlyveryannoyedatourintrusiononhisdomain.

Inthemorningtheywentoffassoonasitwaslighttotrytheirluckalongtheriver,whileIremainedincamptoseetobreakfast.Afteranhourormore,however,theyallreturned,empty-handedbutveryhungry;sowhentheyhadsettleddowntorestafteraheartymeal,IthoughtIwouldsallyforthandseeifIcouldnotmeetwithbettersuccess.Ihadgoneonlyashortdistanceuptherightbankoftheriver,whenIthoughtIobservedamovementamongthebushesaheadofme.Onthe

alert,Istoppedinstantly,andthenextmomentwasrewardedbyseeingasplendidbush-buckadvancefromthewaterinamoststatelymanner.Icouldonlymakeouthisheadandneckabovetheundergrowth,butashewasonlysomefiftyyardsoff,Iraisedmyrifletomyshouldertofire.Thismovementatoncecaughthiseye,andforthefractionofasecondhestoppedtogazeatme,thusgivingmetimetoaimatwhereIsupposedhisshouldertobe.WhenIfired,hedisappearedsosuddenlyandsocompletelythatIfeltsurethatIhadmissedhim,andthathehadmadeoffthroughthebush.Ithereforere-loaded,andadvancedcarefullywiththeintentionoffollowinguphistrail;buttomyunboundeddelightIcameuponthebuckstretchedoutdeadinhistracks,withmybulletthroughhisheart.Ilostnotimeingettingbacktocamp,theantelopeswingingbyhisfeetfromabranchborneby

twosturdycoolies:andmyunluckyfriendswereverymuchastonishedwhentheysawthefinebagIhadsecuredinsoshortatime.Theanimalwassoonskinnedandfurnisheduswithadeliciousroastforlunch;andinthecooloftheeveningwemadeourwaybacktoTsavowithoutfurtheradventure.

Somelittletimeafterthis,whileoneofthesesamefriends(Mr.C.Rawson)happenedtobeagainatTsavo,weweresittingafterdarkundertheverandahofmyhut.Iwantedsomethingfrommytent,andsentMeeanh,myIndianchaukidar,tofetchit.Hewasgoingoffinthedarktodoso,whenIcalledhimbackandtoldhimtotakealanternforfearofsnakes.Thishedid,andassoonashegottothedoorofthetent,whichwasonlyadozenyardsoff,hecalledoutfrantically,

"Are,Sahib,burrasanphai!"("Oh,Master,thereisabigsnakehere!)

"Where?"Ishouted.

"Herebythebed,"hecried,"Bringthegun,quickly."

Iseizedtheshot-gun,whichIalwayskepthandy,andrushedtothetent,where,bythelightofthelantern,Isawagreatredsnake,aboutsevenfeetlong,gazingatmefromthesideofmycamp-bed.Iinstantlyfiredathim,cuttinghimcleaninhalfwiththeshot;the



tailpartremainedwhereitwas,buttheheadhalfquicklywriggledoffanddisappearedinthegloomofthetent.Thetrailofblood,however,enabledustotrackit,andweeventuallyfoundthesnake,stillfulloffight,undertheedgeoftheground-sheet.Hemadealastviciousdartatoneofthemenwhohadrunup,butwasquicklygiventhehappydespatchbyablowonthehead.Rawsonnowpickeditupandbroughtittothelight.Hethenputhisfootonthebackofitsheadandwithastickforcedopenthejaws,whensuddenlywesawtwoperfectlyclearjetsofpoisonspurtoutfromthefangs.AnIndianbaboo(clerk),whohappenedtobestandingnear,gotthefullbenefitofthis,andthepoormanwassopanic-strickenthatinasecondhehadtornoffeveryatomofhisclothing.Wewereverymuchamusedatthis,asofcourseweknewthatalthoughthepoisonwasexceedinglyvenomous,itcoulddonoharmunlessitpenetratedacutoropenwoundintheflesh.Ineverfoundoutthenameofthissnake,which,asIhavesaid,wasofadarkbrick-redcolourallover;andIonlysawoneotherofthesamekindallthetimeIwasinEastAfrica.Icameuponitsuddenlyonedaywhenoutshooting.Itwasevidentlymuchstartled,andstooderect,hissingvenomously;butIalsowassomuchtakenabackatitsappearancethatIdidnotthinkaboutshootingituntilithadglidedoffanddisappearedinthethickundergrowth.

CHAPTERXV

UNSUCCESSFULRHINOHUNTS

AlthoughthejungleroundTsavowasanetworkofrhinopathsIhadneversofarbeensuccessfulinmyeffortstoobtainoneoftheseanimals,norwasmyambitionyettoberealised.OnedayIwasoutexploringinthedensebushsomesixorsevenmilesawayfromcamp,andfoundmyprogressmorethanusuallyslow,owingtothefactthatIhadtospendmostofmytimecrawlingonall-foursthroughthejungle.Iwasverypleased,therefore,toemergesuddenlyonabroadand

well-beatentrackalongwhichIcouldwalkcomfortablyinanuprightposition.Inthisweresomefreshrhinofootprintswhichseemedbarelyanhourold,soIdeterminedtofollowthemup.Theroadwaywasbeateninplacesintoafinewhitedustbythepassageofmanyheavyanimals;andasIpushedcautiouslyforwardIfullyexpectedtocomefacetofacewitharhinoateverycornerIturned.AfterhavinggonealittlewayIfanciedthatIreallydidseeonelyingatthefootofatreesomedistanceaheadofme,butonapproachingcautiouslyfoundthatitwasnothingmorethanagreatbrownheapoflooseearthwhichoneofthehugebeastshadraisedbyrollingaboutonthesoftground.This,however,wasevidentlyaresting-placewhichwasregularlyused,soImadeupmymindtospendanightintheoverhangingbranchesofthetree.

Thenextafternoon,accordingly,MahinaandImadeourwaybacktotheplace,andbyduskweweresafelybutuncomfortablyperchedamongthebranchesdirectlyoverthepath.Wehadscarcelybeenthereanhourwhentoourdelightweheardagreatrhinoploddingalongthetrackinourdirection.Unfortunatelythemoonhadnotyetrisen,soIwasunabletocatchsightofthemonsterasheapproached;Iknew,however,thattherewaslightenoughformetoseehimwhenheemergedfromthebushesintothelittleclearingroundthefootofourtree.Nearerandnearerweheardhimcomingsteadilyon,andIhadmyrifleready,



pointingitinthedirectioninwhichIexpectedhisheadtoappear.But,alas,justatthatmomentthewindveeredroundandblewstraightfromustowardstherhino,whoscentedusimmediately,gaveamightysnortandthendivedmadlyawaythroughthejungle.Forsomeconsiderabletimewecouldhearhimcrashingponderouslythrougheverythingthatcameinhisway,andhemusthavegonealongdistancebeforeherecoveredfromhisfrightandsloweddowntohisusualpace.Atanyrateweneitherheardnorsawanythingmoreofhim,andspentawakefulanduncomfortablenightfornothing.

Mynextattempttobagarhinotookplacesomemonthslater,onthebanksoftheSabaki,andwasscarcelymoresuccessful.IhadcomedownfromTsavointheafternoon,accompaniedbyMahina,andfindingalikelytree,withinafewyardsoftheriverandwithfreshfootprintsunderit,Iatoncedecidedtotakeupmypositionforthenightinitsbranches.Mahinapreferredtositwherehecouldtakeacomfortablenap,andwedgedhimselfinaforkofthetreesomelittlewaybelowme,butstillsomeeightortenfeetfromtheground.Itwasacalmandperfectnight,suchascanbeseenonlyinthetropics;everythinglookedmysteriouslybeautifulinthegloriousmoonlight,andstoodoutlikeapicturelookedatthroughastereoscope.FrommyperchamongthebranchesIwatchedfirstawater-buckcometodrinkintheriver;thenabush-buck;later,atinypaaemergedfromthebushesandpausedateverystepwithonegracefulforefootpoisedintheair--thoroughlyon

thealertandlookingroundcarefullyandnervouslyforanytraceofapossibleenemy.Atlengthitreachedthebrinkoftheriverinsafety,andstoopedtodrink.JustthenIsawajackalcomeuponitstrailandbegincarefullytostalkit,notevenrustlingafallenleafinitsstealthyadvanceonthepoorlittleantelope.Allofasudden,however,thejackalstoppeddeadforasecond,andthenmadeoffoutofsightasfastaseverhecouldgo.Ilookedroundtodiscoverthecauseofthishurriedexit,andtomysurprisesawalargeandverybeautifulleopardcrouchingdownandmovingnoiselesslyinthedirectionofourtree.AtfirstIthoughtitmustbestalkingsomeanimalonthegroundbelowus,butIsoonrealisedthatitwasMahinathatthebrutewasintenton.Whether,iflefttohimself,theleopardwouldactuallyhavemadeaspringatmysleepinggun-bearer,Idonotknow;butIhadnointention

oflettinghimhaveachanceofevenattemptingthis,soIcautiouslyraisedmyrifleandlevelleditathim.AbsolutelynoiselessasIwasindoingthis,henoticedit--possiblyaglintofmoonlightonthebarrelcaughthiseye--andimmediatelydisappearedintothebushbeforeIcouldgetinashot.IatoncewokeMahinaandmadehimcomeuptomoresecurequartersbesideme.

Foralongtimeafterthisnothingdisturbedourpeace,butatlastthequarryIhadhopedformadehisappearanceonthescene.Justbelowustherewasanopeningintheelephantgrasswhichlinedtheriver'sedge,andthroughthisthebroadstreamshonelikesilverinthemoonlight.Withoutwarningthisgapwassuddenlyfilledbyahugeblackmass--arhinomakinghisway,veryleisurely,outoftheshallowwater.

Onhecamewithaslow,ponderoustread,combiningacertainstatelinesswithhisawkwardstrides.Almostdirectlybeneathushehaltedandstoodforaninstantclearlyexposedtoourview.Thiswasmyopportunity;Itookcarefulaimathisshoulderandfired.Instantly,andwithextraordinaryrapidity,thehugebeastwhirledroundlikeapeg-top,whereuponIfiredagain.ThistimeIexpectedhimtofall;butinsteadofthatIhadthemortificationofseeinghimrushoffintothejungleandofhearinghimcrashthroughitlikeagreatsteam-rollerforseveralminutes.Iconsoledmyselfbythinkingthathecouldnotgofar,ashewashardhit,andthatIshouldeasilyfindhim



whendaylightarrived.Mahina,whowasinawildstateofexcitementovertheburrajanwar(greatanimal),wasalsoofthisopinion,andastherewasnolongeranyreasonforsilence,hechattedtomeaboutmanystrangeandcuriousthingsuntilthegreydawnappeared.Whenwegotdownfromourperch,wefoundthetrackofthewoundedrhinoclearlymarkedbygreatsplashesofblood,andforacoupleofmilesthespoorcouldthusbeeasilyfollowed.Atlength,however,itgotfainterandfainter,andfinallyceasedaltogether,sothatwehadtoabandonthesearch;thegroundroundaboutwasrocky,andtherewasnopossibilityoftellingwhichwayourquarryhadgone.Iwasexceedinglysorryforthis,asIdidnotliketoleavehimwounded;buttherewasnohelpforit,sowestruckoutforhomeandarrivedatTsavointheafternoonverytired,hungryanddisappointed.

Rhinosareextraordinaryanimals,andnotinanywaytobedependedupon.Onedaytheywillsheeroffonmeetingahumanbeingandmakenoattempttoattack;thenextday,fornoapparentreason,theymayexecuteamostdeterminedcharge.Iwastoldforafactbyanofficialwhohadbeenlonginthecountrythatononeoccasionwhileagangoftwenty-oneslaves,chainednecktoneckaswasthecustom,wasbeingsmuggleddowntothecoastandwasproceedinginIndianfilealonganarrowpath,arhinocerossuddenlychargedoutatrightanglestothem,impaledthecentremanonitshornsandbrokethenecksoftheremainderofthepartybythesuddennessofhisrush.Thesehugebeasts

haveaverykeensenseofsmell,butequallyindifferenteyesight,anditissaidthatifahunterwillonlystandperfectlystillonmeetingarhino,itwillpasshimbywithoutattemptingtomolesthim.Ifeelboundtoadd,however,thatIhavesofarfailedtocomeacrossanybodywhohasactuallytriedtheexperiment.Ontheotherhand,Ihavemetoneortwomenwhohavebeentossedonthehornsoftheseanimals,andtheydescribeditasaverypainfulproceeding.Itgenerallymeansbeingacrippleforlife,ifoneevensucceedsinescapingdeath.Mr.B.Eastwood,thechiefaccountantoftheUgandaRailway,oncegavemeagraphicdescriptionofhismarvellousescapefromaninfuriatedrhino.HewasonleaveatthetimeonahuntingexpeditionintheneighbourhoodofLakeBaringo,abouteightymilesnorthoftherailwayfromNakuru,andhadshotandapparentlykilledarhino.Onwalkingup

toit,however,thebruterosetoitsfeetandliterallyfellonhim,breakingfourribsandhisrightarm.Notcontentwiththis,itthenstuckitshornthroughhisthighandtossedhimoveritsback,repeatingthisoperationonceortwice.Finally,itlumberedoff,leavingpoorEastwoodhelplessandfaintinginthelonggrasswherehehadfallen.Hewasaloneatthetime,anditwasnotforsomehoursthathewasfoundbyhisporters,whowereonlyattractedtothespotbythenumbersofvultureshoveringabout,waitingintheirghoulishmannerforlifetobeextinctbeforebeginningtheirmeal.HowhemanagedtolivefortheeightdaysafterthiswhichelapsedbeforeadoctorcouldbegottohimIcannotimagine;butintheendhefortunatelymadeagoodrecovery,theonlysignofhisterribleexperiencebeingtheabsenceofhisrightarm,whichhadtobe

amputated.

CHAPTERXVI

AWIDOW'SSTORY



VeryshortlybeforeIleftTsavoIwent(onMarch11,1899)oninspectiondutytoVoi,which,asIhavealreadymentioned,isaboutthirtymilesontheMombasasideofTsavo.Atthistimeitwasamiserable,swampyspot,wherefever,guinea-worm,andallkindsofhorriblediseaseswererampant;butthisstateofaffairshasnowbeencompletelyalteredbydrainageandbyclearingawaythejungle.Dr.Rosewasinmedicalchargeoftheplaceatthetimeofmyvisit,andasitwasthegoodoldcustomtoputupwithanyfriendonecameacrosstowardsnightfall,Imadehimmyhostwhenmyday'sworkwasover.Wespentaverypleasanteveningtogether,andnaturallydiscussedallthelocalnews.AmongstotherthingswechattedaboutthenewroadwhichwasbeingconstructedfromVoitoaratherimportantmissionarystationcalledTaveta,nearMountKilimaN'jaro,andDr.RosementionedthatMr.O'Hara(theengineerinchargeoftheroad-making),withhiswifeandchildren,wasencampedintheWaTaitacountry,abouttwelvemilesawayfromVoi.

EarlynextmorningIwentoutforastrollwithmyshot-gun,buthadnotgonefarfromthedoctor'stentwhenIsawinthedistancefourSwahilicarryingsomethingwhichlookedlikeastretcheralongthenewly-maderoad.Fearingthatsomeaccidenthadhappened,Iwentquicklytomeetthemandcalledouttoaskwhattheywerecarrying.Theyshoutedback"Bwana"("Themaster");andwhenIaskedwhatbwana,theyreplied"BwanaO'Hara."Onenquiringwhatexactlyhadhappened,

theytoldmethatduringthenighttheirmasterhadbeenkilledbyalion,andthathiswifeandchildrenwerefollowingbehind,alongtheroad.AtthisIdirectedthementothehospitalandtoldthemwheretofindDr.Rose,andwithoutwaitingtohearanyfurtherparticularshurriedonasfastaspossibletogivewhatassistanceIcouldtopoorMrs.O'Hara.SomeconsiderablewaybackImethertoilingalongwithaninfantinherarms,whilealittlechildheldontoherskirt,utterlytiredoutwiththelongwalk.Ihelpedhertofinishthedistancetothedoctor'stent;shewassounstrungbyherterriblenight'sexperienceandsoexhaustedbyhertryingmarchcarryingthebabythatshewasscarcelyabletospeak.Dr.Roseatoncedidallhecouldbothforherandforthechildren,themotherbeinggivenasleepingdraughtandmadecomfortableinoneofthetents.Whensheappearedagainlate

intheafternoonshewasmuchrefreshed,andwasabletotellusthefollowingdreadfulstory,whichIshallgiveasnearlyaspossibleinherownwords.

"Wewereallasleepinthetent,myhusbandandIinonebedandmytwochildreninanother.Thebabywasfeverishandrestless,soIgotuptogivehersomethingtodrink;andasIwasdoingso,IheardwhatIthoughtwasalionwalkingroundthetent.IatoncewokemyhusbandandtoldhimIfeltsuretherewasalionabout.Hejumpedupandwentout,takinghisgunwithhim.Helookedroundtheoutsideofthetent,andspoketotheSwahiliaskariwhowasonsentrybythecampfirealittledistanceoff.Theaskarisaidhehadseennothingaboutexceptadonkey,somyhusbandcameinagain,tellingmenottoworryasitwas

onlyadonkeythatIhadheard.

"Thenightbeingveryhot,myhusbandthrewbackthetentdoorandlaydownagainbesideme.AfterawhileIdozedoff,butwassuddenlyrousedbyafeelingasifthepillowwerebeingpulledawayfromundermyhead.OnlookingroundIfoundthatmyhusbandwasgone.Ijumpedupandcalledhimloudly,butgotnoanswer.JustthenIheardanoiseamongtheboxesoutsidethedoor,soIrushedoutandsawmypoorhusbandlyingbetweentheboxes.Iranuptohimandtriedtolifthim,butfoundIcouldnotdoso.Ithencalledtotheaskaritocomeand



helpme,butherefused,sayingthattherewasalionstandingbesideme.Ilookedupandsawthehugebeastgloweringatme,notmorethantwoyardsaway.Atthismomenttheaskarifiredhisrifle,andthisfortunatelyfrightenedthelion,foritatoncejumpedoffintothebush.

"Allfouraskaristhencameforwardandliftedmyhusbandbackontothebed.Hewasquitedead.Wehadhardlygotbackintothetentbeforethelionreturnedandprowledaboutinfrontofthedoor,showingeveryintentionofspringingintorecoverhisprey.Theaskarisfiredathim,butdidnodamagebeyondfrighteninghimawayagainforamomentortwo.Hesooncamebackandcontinuedtowalkroundthetentuntildaylight,growlingandpurring,anditwasonlybyfiringthroughthetenteverynowandthenthatwekepthimout.AtdaybreakhedisappearedandIhadmyhusband'sbodycarriedhere,whileIfollowedwiththechildrenuntilImetyou."

SuchwasMrs.O'Hara'spitifulstory.Theonlycomfortwecouldgiveherwastoassureherthatherhusbandhaddiedinstantlyandwithoutpain;forwhileshehadbeenrestingDr.Rosehadmadeapost-mortemexaminationofthebodyandhadcometothisconclusion.HefoundthatO'Harahadevidentlybeenlyingonhisbackatthetime,andthatthelion,seizinghisheadinitsmouth,hadcloseditslongtusksthroughhistemplesuntiltheymetagaininthebrain.Weburiedhimbefore

nightfallinapeacefulspotcloseby,thedoctorreadingthefuneralservice,whileIassistedinloweringtherudecoffinintothegrave.Itwasthesaddestsceneimaginable.Theweepingwidow,thewonderingfacesofthechildren,thegatheringgloomoftheclosingevening,theduskyformsofafewnativeswhohadgatheredround--allcombinedtomakeamoststrikingandsolemnendingtoaveryterribletragedyofreallife.

Iamgladtosaythatwithinafewweeks'timethelionthatwasresponsibleforthistragedywaskilledbyapoisonedarrow,shotfromatreetopbyoneoftheWaTaita.

CHAPTERXVII

ANINFURIATEDRHINO

MyworkatTsavowasfinishedinMarch,1899,whenIreceivedinstructionstoproceedtorailheadandtakechargeofasectionoftheworkthere.FormanyreasonsIwassorrytosaygood-byetoTsavo,whereIhadspentaneventfulyear;butallthesameIwasverygladtobegiventhisnewpost,asIknewthattherewouldbeagreatdealofinterestingworktobedoneandaconstantchangeofcampandscene,as

thelineprogressedonwardtotheinterior.Ingoodspirits,therefore,IsetoutformynewheadquartersonMarch28.BythistimerailheadhadreachedaplacecalledMachakosRoad,sometwohundredandseventy-sixmilesfromMombasaandwithinafewmilesofthegreatAthiPlains,thelatterbeingtreelessandwaterlessexpanses,bareofeverythingexceptgrass,whichthegreatherdsofgamekeepcloselycropped.AfterleavingTsavo,thecharacterofthecountryremainsunalteredforsomeconsiderabledistance,thelinecontinuingtorunthroughthethornynyika,anditisnotuntilMakinduisreached--abouttwohundredmilesfromthecoast--thatachangeisapparent.Fromthis



place,however,thejourneyliesthroughafairlyopenandinterestingtractofcountry,wheregameofallkindsaboundsandcanbeseengrazingpeacefullywithinafewhundredyardsoftherailway.OnthewayIwasluckyenoughtogetsomefineviewsofKilimaN'jaro,thewholemountainfrombasetosummitstandingoutclearlyandgrandly,withtheloftypeakofKibotoppingthefleecycloudswithitssnowyhead.

AtMachakosRoadIfoundthecountryandtheclimateverydifferentfromthattowhichIhadgrownaccustomedatTsavo.HereIcouldseeformilesacrossstretchesofbeautiful,opendowns,timberedhereandtherelikeanEnglishpark;anditwasagreatrelieftobeabletooverlookawidetractofcountryandtofeelthatIwasnolongerhemmedinonallsidesbytheinterminableanddepressingthornywilderness.AsMachakosRoadissomefourthousandfeethigherabovethesealevelthanTsavo,thedifferenceintemperaturewasalsoverymarked,andtheairfeltfreshandcoolcomparedwiththatofthesun-bakedvalleyinwhichIhadspentthepreviousyear.

MyinstructionsweretohurryontheconstructionofthelineasfastaspossibletoNairobi,theproposedheadquartersoftheRailwayAdministration,whichlayaboutfiftymilesfurtheronacrosstheAthiPlains;andIsoonbegantofindplatelayingmostinterestingwork.Everythinghastomoveasifbyclockwork.Firsttheearthsurfacehas

tobepreparedandrenderedperfectlysmoothandlevel;cuttingshavetobemadeandhollowsbankedup;tunnelshavetobeboredthroughhillsandbridgesthrownacrossrivers.Thenalineofcooliesmovesalong,placingsleepersatregularintervals;anothergangdropstherailsintheirplaces;yetanotherbringsalongthekeys,fishplates,boltsandnutswhilefollowingthesearethemenwhoactuallyfixtherailsonthesleepersandlinkupfromonetoanother.Finally,thepackinggangfinishestheworkbyfillinginearthandballastunderandaroundthesteelsleeperstogivethemthenecessarygripandrigidity.Somedayswewereabletolayonlyafewyards,whileonotherdayswemightdooveramile;alldependedonthenatureofthecountrywehadtocover.Ononeoccasionwesucceededinbreakingtherecordforaday'splatelaying,andweregratifiedatreceivinga

telegramofcongratulationfromtheRailwayCommitteeattheForeignOffice.

Imadeitmycustomtotakeawalkeachmorningforsomedistanceaheadofrailsalongthecentre-lineoftherailway,inordertospyoutthelandandtoformaroughestimateofthematerialthatwouldberequiredinthewayofsleepers,girdersfortemporarybridges,etc.Itwasnecessarytodothisinordertoavoidunduedelaytakingplaceowingtoshortageofmaterialofanykind.AbouttendaysaftermyarrivalatMachakosRoadIwalkedinthiswayforfiveorsixmilesaheadofthelast-laidrail.Itwasratherunusualformetogosofar,and,asithappened,Iwasaloneonthisoccasion,Mahinahavingbeenleftbehindincamp.Abouttwomilesawayonmyleft,Inoticeda

dark-lookingobjectandthinkingitwasanostrichIstartedofftowardsit.Verysoon,however,Ifoundthatitwasbiggergamethananostrich,andongettingstillnearermadeouttheformofagreatrhinoceroslyingdown.Icontinuedtoadvanceverycautiously,wrigglingthroughtheshortgrassuntilatlengthIgotwithinfiftyyardsofwherethehugebeastwasresting.HereIlayandwatchedhim;butaftersomelittletimeheevidentlysuspectedmypresence,forrisingtohisfeet,helookedstraightinmydirectionandthenproceededtowalkroundmeinahalf-circle.Themomenthegotwindofme,hewhippedroundinhistrackslikeacatandcameformeina



bee-line.Hopingtoturnhim,Ifiredinstantly;butunfortunatelymysoft-nosedbulletsmerelyannoyedhimfurther,andhadnottheslightesteffectonhisthickhide.Onseeingthis,Iflungmyselfdownquiteflatonthegrassandthrewmyhelmetsometenfeetawayinthehopethathewouldperceiveitandventhisrageonitinsteadofme.Onhethundered,whileIscarcelydaredtobreathe.Icouldhearhimsnortingandrootingupthegrassquiteclosetome,butluckilyformehedidnotcatchsightofmeandchargedbyafewyardstomyleft.

Assoonashehadpassedme,mycouragebegantoreviveagain,andIcouldnotresistthetemptationofsendingacoupleofbulletsafterhim.These,however,simplycrackedagainsthishideandsplinteredtopiecesonit,sendingthedrymudoffinlittlecloudsofdust.Theironlyrealeffect,indeed,wastomakehimstillmoreangry.Hestoodstock-stillforamoment,andthengoredthegroundmostviciouslyandstartedoffoncemoreonthesemi-circleroundme.Thisproceedingterrifiedmemorethanever,asIfeltsurethathewouldcomeup-windatmeagain,andIcouldscarcelyhopetoescapeasecondtime.Unfortunately,mysurmiseprovedcorrect,fordirectlyhescentedme,upwenthisnoseintheairanddownhechargedlikeabattering-ram.Ifairlypressedmyselfintotheground,asflataseverIcould,andluckilythegrasswasafewincheshigh.Ifeltthethudofhisgreatfeetpoundingalong,yetdarednotmoveorlookuplestheshouldseeme.Myheartwasthumpinglikeasteamhammer,andeverymomentIfully

expectedtofindmyselftossedintotheair.NearerandnearercametheheavythuddingandIhadquitegivenmyselfupforlost,whenfrommylyingpositionIcaughtsight,outofthecornerofmyeye,oftheinfuriatedbeastrushingby.Hehadmissedmeagain!Ineverfeltsorelievedinmylife,andassuredlydidnotattempttoannoyhimfurther.Hewentoffforgoodthistime,anditwaswithgreatsatisfactionthatIwatchedhimgraduallydisappearinthedistance.Icouldnothavebelieveditpossiblethatthesehuge,ungainly-lookingbrutescouldmovesorapidly,andturnandtwistintheirtracksjustlikemonkeys,hadInotactuallyseenthisonedosobeforemyeyes.Ifhehadfoundmehewouldcertainlyhavepoundedmetoatoms,ashewasanoldbullandinamostfuriousandviciousmood.

OnedaywhenDr.BrockandIwereoutshooting,shortlyafterthisincidentandnotfarfromwhereitoccurred,wecaughtsightoftworhinosinahollowsomelittledistancefromus,andcommencedtostalkthem,takingadvantageofeveryfoldofthegroundindoingsoandkeepingaboutfiftyyardsapartincaseofacharge.Inthateventoneorotherofuswouldbeabletogetinabroadsideshot,whichwouldprobablyrollthebeastover.Proceedingcarefullyinthismanner,wemanagedtogetwithinaboutsixtyyardsofthem,andasitwasmyturnforashot,Itookaimatthelargerofthetwo,justasitwasmovingitsgreatheadfromonesidetotheother,wonderingwhichofusitoughttoattack.WhenatlastitdecideduponBrock,itgavemethechanceIhadbeenwaitingfor.Ifiredinstantlyatthehollowbetweenneckandshoulder;thebrutedroppedatonce,andsaveforoneortwo

convulsivekicksofitsstumpylegsasitlayhalfonitsback,itnevermovedagain.Thesecondrhinoprovedtobeawell-grownyoungsterwhichshowedconsiderablefightasweattemptedtoapproachitsfallencomrade.Wedidnotwanttokillit,andaccordinglyspentabouttwohoursinshoutingandthrowingstonesatitbeforeatlastwesucceededindrivingitaway.Wethenproceededtoskinourprize;this,asmaybeimagined,provedratheratoughjob,butwemanageditintheend,andthetrophywaswellworththepainsIhadtakentoaddittomycollection.



CHAPTERXVIII

LIONSONTHEATHIPLAINS

ShortlyafterItookchargeatrailheadweenteredtheKapitiPlain,whichgraduallymergesintotheAthiPlain,and,indeed,ishardlytobedistinguishedfromthelatterintheappearanceorgeneralcharacterofthecountry.Togethertheyformagreattractofrollingdownscoveredwithgrass,andintersectedhereandtherebydryravines,alongthebakedbanksofwhichafewstuntedtrees--theonlyonestobeseen--struggletokeepthemselvesalive.Inallthisexpansethereisabsolutelynowaterinthedryseason,exceptintheAthiRiver(somefortymilesaway)andinafewwater-holesknownonlytothewildanimals.Thegreatfeatureoftheundulatingplains,however,andtheonewhichgivesthemanever-failinginterest,isthegreatabundanceofgameofalmosteveryconceivablekind.HereImyselfhaveseenlion,rhinoceros,leopard,eland,giraffe,zebra,wildebeeste,hartebeeste,waterbuck,wart-hog,Granti,Thomsoni,impala,besidesostriches,greaterandlesserbustard,marabout,andahostofotheranimalsandbirdstoonumeroustoname;whilealongtheAthiandclosetoitsbanks

maybefoundlargenumbersofhippoandcrocodiles.AtthetimeIwasthere,thesegreatplainsalsoformedtheprincipalgrazinggroundfortheimmenseherdsofcattleownedbytheMasai.IamverygladtosaythatthewholeofthiscountryonthesouthsideoftherailwayasfarastheboundaryofGermanEastAfrica,fromtheTsavoRiverontheeasttotheKedongValleyonthewest,isnowastrictlyprotectedGameReserve;andsolong,asthishugeexpanseisthusmaintainedasasanctuary,therecanbenodangerofanyofthesespeciesbecomingextinct.

Whilecrossingthisdryexpanse,thegreatestdifficultyIhadtocontendwithwastheprovisionofsufficientwaterforthethreethousandworkmenemployedaboutrailhead,fornotadropcouldbe

obtainedontheway,norcouldwehopeforanyuntilwehadgottotheothersideoftheplainandhadreachedtheAthiRiver,whichcouldnotbeaccomplishedunderacoupleofmonths.Asweprogressedonwardsintothewaterlessbelt,thisbecameaveryseriousmatterindeed,asanybreakdowninthesupplywouldhavehadthemostdisastrousconsequencesamongsolargeabodyofmenworkingalldayundertheblazingsunofatropicalclimate.Everydaytwotrainloadsofwateringreattankswerebroughtupfromthelaststreamwehadpassed,which,ofcourse,dailyfellfurthertotherear.Thiswasasourceofconsiderabledelay,forthelinewasblockedallthetimethewaterwasbeingpumpedintothetanks,andconsequentlynomaterialforconstructioncouldcomethrough;andagooddealoftimewasalsowasted,whenthetrainsreturnedtorailhead,indistributingthewatertotheworkmen,who

oftenquarrelledandfoughtintheireagernesstogetatit.AtfirstIhadmostofthetank-fillingdonebynight,butononeoccasionalioncameunpleasantlyclosetothemenworkingthepump,andsonightworkhadtobeabandoned.Thecooliesthemselvesweresoanxious,indeed,togetaplentifulsupplyofwater,thatonceortwicesomeofthemoredaringspiritsamongthemventuredtogooutontotheplainsinsearchofwaterholes,which,byreasonofthelargeherdsofgame,weknewmustexistsomewhere.Theonlyresultoftheseexpeditions,however,wasthatthreeofthesemenneverreturned;whatbefellthemisnotknowntothisday.



Whenwehadproceededsomedistanceacrossthisdryland,andwhenIwasexperiencingtothefullthedisadvantageanddelaycausedbymytanktrains,anativefromsomeremotecorneroftheplains--withnothingbywayofdressbutasmallpieceofcowhidethrownoverhisleftshoulder--cametomytentdooronedayandsquatteddownonhisheelsinthenativefashion.Onbeingaskedhisbusiness,"Ihaveheard,"hereplied,"thattheGreatMasterwantswater;Icanshowittohim."Thiswasgoodnews,ifitcouldbereliedupon;soIquestionedhimclosely,andascertainedthatsometimepreviously--exactlyhowlongagoIcouldnotgather--hehadbeeninthelocalityonaraidingexpeditionandhadsucceededinfindingwater.Iaskediftheplacewasfaraway,andgotthereplyinSwahili"M'balikidogo"("Alittledistance").Now,IhadhadexperienceofM'balikidogobefore;itisliketheIrishman's"mileandabit."SoIdecidedtostartveryearlynextmorningonasearchforthispond--forsuchmyinformantdescribedittobe.Inthemeantimethepoorfellow,whoappearedstarving--therewasasorefamineamongthenativesofthedistrictatthetime--wasgivenfoodanddrink,andmadearavenousmeal.IntheeveningIhadalongtalkwithhiminbrokenSwahiliroundthecampfire,andobtainedsomeinsightintomanyofthestrangeandbarbarouscustomsoftheMasai,towhichinterestingtribehebelonged.

InthemorningIstartedoffbetimes,takingmy.303rifleandbeing

accompaniedbyMahinawiththe12-boreshot-gun,andbyanotherIndiancarryingthenecessaryfoodandwater.OurMasaiguide,whosenamewefoundtobeLungow,seemedtobequitecertainofhisway,andledusacrosstherollingplainsmoreorlessinthedirectioninwhichtherailwaywastorun,butsomemilestotherightofitscentre-line.Themarchwasfullofinterest,foronthewaywepassedwithineasyrangeofherdsofwildebeeste,hartebeeste,gazelle,andzebra.Iwasoutstrictlyonbusiness,however,anddidnotattemptashot,reservingthatpleasureforthehomewardtrip.LateintheforenoonwearrivedatLungow'spond--acirculardipabouteightyyardsindiameter,whichwithoutdoubthadcontainedwaterveryrecently,butwhich,asIexpectedtofind,wasnowquitedry.Aconsiderablenumberofboneslayscatteredroundit,whetherof"kills"orofanimalswhichhaddiedof

thirstIcouldnotsay.Ourguideappearedverymuchupsetwhenhefoundthepondempty,andgaveventtomanyexclamationsinhispeculiarlanguage,inwhichtheletter"r"rolledlikeakettledrum.

Oursearchforwaterhavingthusprovedafailure,Ideterminedtotrymyluckwiththegame.TheMasaiandtheIndianweresentbacktocamp,whileMahinaandImadeabigdetourfromthedried-upwater-hole.Gameaboundedinalldirections,buttheanimalsweremuchmoreshythantheyhadbeeninthemorning,anditwasinvainthatIstalked--ifitcanbecalled"stalking,"whenasamatteroffactonehastomoveintheopen--splendidspecimensofThomson'sandGrant'sgazelle.Imighthaveattemptedashotonceortwice,buttheprobabilitywasthatowingtothelongrangeitwouldhaveresultedonlyinawound,andIthink

thereisnothingsopainfulastoseeananimallimpingaboutinacrippledcondition.Inthisfruitlessmannerwecoveredseveralmiles,andIwasbeginningtothinkthatweshouldhavetoreturntocampwithoutsomuchasfiringashot.Justthen,however,Isawaherdofwildebeeste,andwithmuchcaremanagedtogetwithinthreehundredyardsofthem.Isingledoutthebiggestheadandwaitingforafavourablemoment,firedathim,droppinghimatonce.Iranuptothefallenbeast,whichappearedtobedying,andtoldMahinatodrivethehuntingkniferightthroughhisheartsoastoputhimquicklyoutofallpain.AsMahinawasnotdoingthisasskilfullyorasquicklyasI



thoughtitmightbedone,andseemedunabletopiercethetoughhide,Ihandedhimmyrifleandtooktheknifeinordertodoitmyself.JustasIraisedtheknifetostrike,Iwasstartledbythewildebeestesuddenlyjumpingtohisfeet.Foramomenthestoodlookingatmeinadazedandtotterykindofway,andthentomyamazementheturnedandmadeoff.AtfirsthemovedwithsuchashakyanduncertaingaitthatIfeltconfidentthathecouldonlygoafewyardsbeforedropping;so,asIdidnotwishtodisturbtheothergamearoundusbyfiringasecondshot,Ithoughtitbestjusttowait.Tomyutterastonishment,however,afterhehadstaggeredforaboutsixtyyardsheseemedtorevivesuddenly,brokeintohisordinarygallopandquicklyrejoinedtheherd.FromthattimeIlostalltraceofhim,thoughIfollowedupforfourorfivemiles.

Thewildebeeste,infact,islikeKipling'sFuzzy-Wuzzy--"'e'sgenerallyshammin'when'e'sdead";andmyfriendRawsonaboutthistimehadanexperienceverysimilartomine,butattendedwithmoreseriousresults.Hehadknockedhiswildebeesteoverinmuchthesameway,andthoughtitwasdead;andashewasverykeenonobtainingphotographsofgame,hetookhisstand-camerafromtheIndianwhocarrieditandproceededtofocusitontheanimal'shead.Whenhewasjustabouttotakethepicture,hewasthunderstrucktoseethewildebeestejumpupandcomechargingdownuponhim.Hesprangquicklyaside,andinaninstantupwentthecameraintotheair,followedthe

nextmomentbytheunfortunateIndian,thewildebeestehavingstuckitshornrightthroughtheman'sthighandtossedhimoveritsback.Fortunatelythebrutefelldeadafterthisfinaleffort,leavingRawsongratefulforhisescape.

Afterabandoningthechaseofmywildebeeste,wehadnotgonefaronourwaytowardsthehomecampwhenIthoughtIobservedsomethingofareddishcolourmovinginapatchoflonggrass,agooddistancetoourleftfront.IaskedMahinaifhecouldmakeoutwhatitwas,buthewasunabletodoso,andbeforeIcouldgetmyfield-glassestobear,theanimal,whateveritwas,haddisappearedintothegrass.Ikeptmyeyeonthespot,however,andwegraduallyapproachedit.Whenwewereaboutahundredyardsoff,thereddishobjectagainappeared;andIsaw

thatitwasnothinglessthantheshaggyheadofalionpeepingoverthelonggrass.ThistimeMahinaalsosawwhatitwas,andcalledout,"Dekko,Sahib,sher!"("Look,Master,alion!").Iwhisperedtohimtobequietandtotakenonoticeofhim,whileItriedmybesttofollowmyownadvice.Sowekepton,edginguptowardsthebeast,butapparentlyobliviousofhispresence,ashelaytheregrimlywatchingus.Aswedrewnearer,IaskedMahinainawhisperifhefeltequaltofacingachargefromthesherifIshouldwoundhim.HeansweredsimplythatwhereIwent,therewouldhegoalso;andrightwellhekepthisword.

Iwatchedthelioncarefullyoutofthecornerofmyeyeasweclosedin.Everynowandthenhewoulddisappearfromviewforamoment;and

itwasafascinatingsighttoseehowheslowlyraisedhismassiveheadabovethetopofthegrassagainandgazedcalmlyandsteadilyatusaswenearedhim.UnfortunatelyIcouldnotdistinguishtheoutlineofhisbody,hiddenasitwasinthegrassythicket.Ithereforecircledcautiouslyroundinordertoseeifthecoverwassufficientlythinatthebacktomakeashouldershotpossible;butaswemoved,thelionalsotwistedroundandsoalwayskepthisheadfullonus.WhenIhaddescribedahalf-circle,Ifoundthatthegrasswasnothinnerandthatmychancesofashothadnotimproved.Wewerenowwithinseventyyardsofthelion,whoappearedtotakethegreaterinterestinusthecloser



weapproached.Hehadlostthesleepylookwithwhichhehadatfirstregardedus,andwasnowfullyonthealert;butstillhedidnotgivemetheimpressionthathemeanttocharge,andnodoubtifwehadnotprovokedhim,hewouldhaveallowedustodepartinpeace.I,however,wasbentonwar,inspiteoftheriskwhichonemustalwaysrunbyattackingalionatsuchclosequartersonanopenplainasflatasthepalmofthehand;soinastandingpositionItookcarefulaimathishead,andfired.Thedistancewas,asIhavesaid,abareseventyyards;yetImustconfesstoadisgracefulmiss.Moreastonishingstill,thebeastmadenottheslightestmovement--didnotevenblinkaneye,sofarasIcouldsee--butcontinuedhissteadfast,questioninggaze.AgainItookaim,thistimeforaspotbelowthetipofhisnose,andagainIfired--withmoresuccess,thelionturningacompletesomersaultoverhistail.Ithoughthewasdonefor,butheinstantlysprangtohisfeetagain,andtomyhorrorandastonishmentwasjoinedbyalionesswhosepresencewehadnevereventhoughtoforsuspected.

Worsewasstilltofollow,fortoourdismaybothmadeamostdeterminedchargeonus,boundingalongatagreatpaceandroaringangrilyastheycame.PoorMahinacriedout,"Sahib,dosheratahai!"("Master,twolionsarecoming!"),butItoldhimtostandstock-stillandforhislifenottomaketheslightestmovement.Inthetwinklingofaneyethetwobeastshadcoveredaboutfortyyardsofthedistancetowardsus.Astheydidnotshowtheleastsignofstopping,Ithought

wehadgiventheexperimentofremainingabsolutelymotionlessafairtrial,andwasjustabouttoraisetherifletomyshoulderasalastresort,whensuddenlythewoundedlionstopped,staggered,andfelltotheground.Thelionesstookacoupleofboundsnearertous,andthentomyunmeasuredreliefturnedtolookroundforhermate,whohadbythistimemanagedtogettohisfeetagain.Theretheybothstood,growlingviciouslyandlashingtheirtails,forwhatappearedtometobeasuccessionofages.Thelionessthenmadeuphermindtogobacktothelion,andtheybothstoodbroadsideon,withtheirheadsclosetogetherandturnedtowardsus,snarlinginamostaggressivemanner.Hadeitherofusmovedhandorfootjustthen,itwould,Iamconvinced,haveatoncebroughtonanotherandprobablyafatalcharge.

Asthetwogreatbrutesstoodinthispositionlookingatus,Ihad,ofcourse,agrandopportunityofdroppingboth,butIconfessIdidnotfeelequaltoitatthemoment.Icouldonlydevoutlyhopethattheywouldnotrenewtheirattack,andwasonlytoothankfultoletthemdepartinpeaceiftheywould,withoutanyfurtherhostilityonmypart.Justatthisjuncturethelionseemedtogrowsuddenlyveryweak.Hestaggeredsometenyardsbacktowardshislair,andthenfelltotheground;thelionessfollowed,andlaydownbesidehim--bothstillwatchingus,andgrowlingsavagely.Afterafewsecondsthelionstruggledtohisfeetagainandretreatedalittlefurther,thelionessaccompanyinghimuntilhefelloncemore.Athirdtimethesamethingtookplace,andatlastIbegantobreathemorefreely,astheyhadnowreachedthethicketfromwhichtheyhadoriginallyemerged.Accordingly

Itookashotatthelionessasshelaybesidehermate,partlyconcealedinthelonggrass.IdonotthinkIhither,butanyhowsheatoncemadeoffandboundedawayatagreatrateonemergingintotheopen.

Isentafewbulletsafterhertospeedheronherway,andthencautiouslyapproachedthewoundedlion.Hewasstretchedoutatfulllengthonhisside,withhisbacktowardsme,butIcouldseebytheheavingofhisflanksthathewasnotyetdead,soIputabulletthroughhisspine.Henevermovedafterthis;butforsafety'ssake,I



madenoattempttogouptohimforafewminutes,andthenonlyafterMahinahadplantedafewstonesonhisbodyjusttomakesurethathewasreallydead.

Webothfeltverypleasedwithourselvesaswestoodoverhimandlookedathisfinehead,greatpaws,andlong,clean,sharptusks.Hewasayoung,butfull-grownlioninfinecondition,andmeasuredninefeeteightandahalfinchesfromtipofnosetotipoftail.Mylastshothadenteredthespineclosetotheshoulder,andhadlodgedinthebody;thefirstshotwasamiss;asIhavealreadysaid;butthesecondhadcaughthimontheforehead,rightbetweentheeyes.Thebullet,however,insteadoftraversingthebrain,hadbeenturneddownwardsbythefrontalbone,throughwhichitcrashed,finallylodgingintherootofthetongue,theleadshowingonbothsides.Icutoutthetongueandhungituptodry,intendingtokeepitasatrophy;butunfortunatelyavultureswoopeddownwhenmybackwasturned,andcarrieditoff.

FromthetimeIknockedthelionoveruntilhefirststaggeredandfellnotmorethanaminutecouldhaveelapsed--quitelongenough,however,tohaveenabledhimtocoverthedistanceandtohaveseizedoneorotherofus.Unquestionablyweowedourlivestothefactthatwebothremainedabsolutelymotionless;andIcannotspeaktoohighlyofMahinaforthesplendidwayinwhichhestoodthecharge.Hadheactedasdidanothergun-boyIknowof,theaffairmightnothavehadsohappyan

ending.Thisgun-boywentoutwithCaptainG----inthisveryneighbourhood,andnotlongafterouradventure.G----cameacrossalionjustaswedid,andwoundedit.Itchargeddownonthem,butinsteadofremainingabsolutelystill,theterrifiedgun-boyfled,withtheresultthatthelioncamefuriouslyon,andpoorG----metwithaterribledeath.

WhileMahinawasscouringtheneighbourhoodinsearchofsomenativestocarrytheskinbacktocamp,Itookagoodlookroundtheplaceandfoundthehalf-eatenbodyofazebra,whichInoticedhadbeenkilledoutintheopenandthendraggedintothelonggrass.Thetrackstoldme,also,thatalltheworkhadbeendonebythelion,andthissetmethinkingofthelioness.Iaccordinglyswepttheplainwithmyglasses

inthedirectioninwhichshehadboundedoff,andaftersomesearchingIdiscoveredheraboutamileaway,apparentlylyingdowninthemidstofaherdofhartebeeste,whograzedawaywithouttakinganynoticeofher.Ifeltmuchinclinedtofollowherup,butIwasafraidthatifIdidsothevulturesthatwerealreadyhoveringaroundwouldsettleonmylionandspoiltheskin,forthedestructionofwhichtheseravenousbirdsarecapable,eveninthespaceofonlyafewminutes,isalmostbeyondbelief.Iaccordinglyreturnedtothedeadbeastandsatdownastrideofhim.Ihadreadthatafrontalshotatalionwasaveryriskyone,andoncarefullyexaminingtheheaditwaseasytoseethereason;forowingtothesharpbackwardslopeoftheforeheaditisalmostimpossibleforabulletfiredinthismannertoreachthebrain.AstherewerelotsoflionsaboutinthisdistrictandasIwantedto

bagsomemore,Isetmyselftothinkoutaplanwherebytheriskofafrontalshotmightbegotridof.AboutafortnightafterwardsIhadanopportunityofputtingmyschemeintopractice,happilywithmostexcellentresults;this,however,isanotherstory,whichwillbetoldlateron.

Inextcommencedtoskinmytrophyandfounditaverytoughjobtoperformbymyself.Heprovedtobeaveryfatbeast,soIknewthatMahinawouldmakeafewhonestandwell-earnedrupeesoutofhim,forIndianswillgivealmostanythingforlionfat,believingthatitisan



infalliblecureforrheumatismandvariousotherdiseases.Whenatlengththeskinningprocesswascompleted,IwaitedimpatientlyforthereturnofMahina,whohadbythistimebeengonemuchlongerthanIexpected.Itisratheranerveshatteringthing--Iamspeakingformyself--toremainabsolutelyaloneforhoursonavastopenplainbesidethecarcaseofadeadlion,withvulturesincessantlywheelingaboutaboveone,andwithnothingtobeseenorheardformilesaroundexceptwildanimals.Itwasagreatrelief,therefore,whenafteralongwaitIsawMahinaapproachingwithhalf-a-dozenpracticallynakednativesinhistrain.Itturnedoutthathehadlosthiswaybacktome,sothatitwasluckyhefoundmeatall.Welostnotimeingettingbacktocamp,arrivingtherejustatsundown,whenmyfirstbusinesswastorubwoodashesintotheskinandthenstretchitonaportableframewhichIhadmadeafewdayspreviously.Thecampfirewasabigonethatnight,andthegraphicandhighlycoloureddescriptionwhichMahinagavetotheeagercircleoflistenersofthewayinwhichweslewthelionwouldhavemadeeven"Bahram,thatgreatHunter,"anxiousforhisfame.

CHAPTERXIX

THESTRICKENCARAVAN

NotlongafterthisadventurethepermanentwayreachedtheboundaryoftheKapitiPlains,whereastationhadtobebuiltandwhereaccordinglywetookupourheadquartersforaweekortwo.Afewdaysafterwehadsettleddowninournewcamp,agreatcaravanofsomefourthousandmenarrivedfromtheinteriorwithluggageandloadsoffoodforaSikhregimentwhichwasonitswaydowntothecoast,afterhavingbeenengagedinsuppressingthemutinyoftheSudaneseinUganda.ThemajorityoftheseporterswereBasoga,buttherewerealsofairnumbersofBaganda(i.e.peopleofUganda)andofthenativesofUnyoro,andvariousothertribes.Ofcoursenoneofthesewildmenof

CentralAfricahadeitherseenorheardofarailwayinalltheirlives,andtheyconsequentlydisplayedtheliveliestcuriosityinregardtoit,crowdingroundoneoftheengineswhichhappenedtobestandingatthestation,andhazardingthewildestguessesastoitsoriginanduseinababelofcuriousnativelanguages.IthoughtIwouldprovidealittleentertainmentforthem,soIsteppedontothefootplateandblewoffthesteam,atthesametimesoundingthewhistle.Theeffectwassimplymagical.Thewholecrowdfirstthrewthemselvesflatonthegroundhowlingwithfear,andthen--withheadswelldownandarmswellspreadout--theyfledwildlyinalldirections;nordidthestampedeceaseuntilIshutoffsteamandstoppedthewhistle.Then,theircuriositygraduallyoverpoweringthem,verycautiouslytheybegantoreturn,approachingthelocomotivestealthily

asthoughitweresomelivingmonsterofthejungle.Eventually,twooftheirchiefssummonedupcourageenoughtoclimbontotheengine,andafterwardsthoroughlyenjoyedashortrunwhichIhadtomakedownthelineinordertobringupsomeconstructionmaterial.

Justafterthiscaravanhadmovedonweweresubjectedtosometorrentialrain-storms,whichtransformedthewholeplainintoaquakingbogandstoppedallrailwayworkforthetimebeing.Indeed,theeffectofaheavydownpourofraininthissun-bakeddistrictisextraordinary.Theground,whichisofablacksub-soil,becomesamass



ofthickmudinnotime,andonattemptingtodoanywalkingoneslidesandslipsaboutintheslushinamostuncomfortablemanner.Innocent-lookingdongas,wherehalfanhourpreviouslynotonedropofwaterwastobeseen,becomeroaringtorrentsfrombanktobankinanincrediblyshorttime;whileformanyhoursorevenafewdaystheriversbecomeabsolutelyimpassableinthislandofnobridges.Onthisaccountitisthecustomofthewisetravellerinthesepartsalwaystocrossariverbeforecamping,forotherwiseafloodmaycomedownanddetainhimandhiscaravanonthewrongsideofthestreamforperhapsaweek.Ofcoursewhentherainceases,thefloodsasquicklysubside,theriversanddongasdryup,andthecountryoncemoreresumesitsnormalsun-crackedappearance.

Onleavingmytentonemorningwhenworkwasatastandstillowingtotherain,Inoticedagreatherdofzebraaboutacoupleofmilesawayonthenorthsideoftherailway.Now,ithadlongbeenmyambitiontocaptureoneoftheseanimalsalive;soIsaidtomyself,"Hereismychance!"Themencoulddonothingowingtotherain,andthegroundwasveryboggy,soIthoughtthatifwecouldsurroundtheherdjudiciouslyandchasethezebraupanddownfrompointtopointthroughtheheavyground,someofthemwouldsoongetexhaustedandweshouldthenbeabletocatchthem.Iselectedforthehuntadozenfleet-footedIndianswhowereemployedontheearthworks,andwhoatonceenteredwithgreatzestintothespiritofthescheme.Afterhavingpartially

surroundedtheherd,thehalf-circleofcooliesbegantoadvancewithwildshouts,whereuponthezebrasgallopedmadlyaboutfromsidetoside,andthendidjustwhatwewishedthemtodo--madestraightforanexceptionallyboggypartoftheground,wheretheysoonbecamemoreorlesshelpless.Wesingledoutafewyoungonesandsucceededinrunningthemtoanabsolutestandstill,whenwethrewthemdownandsatontheirheadsuntiltheothermencameupwithropes.Inthiswaywecapturednolessthansix:theywereverywildandfractious,givingusagreatdealoftroubleingettingthemalong,buteventuallywemanagedtobringthemintriumphtothecamp,wheretheywerefirmlysecured.Thewholeexpeditionlastedlittlemorethanacoupleofhours.

ThreeofthecapturedzebrasIkeptformyself,whiletheotherthree

weregiventotheSurfacingEngineer,whosemenhadassistedinthehunt.Twoofmythreeunfortunatelydiedveryshortlyafter;butthethird,asturdytwo-year-old,flourishedsplendidly.Atfirsthewasexceedinglyvicious,bitingandkickingeveryonewhoapproachedhim;indeed,heonceplantedbothhishindfeetonmychest,butdidmenoseriousdamagebeyondthrowingmeheavilytotheground.Intime,however,hebecameverytameanddomesticated,allowinghimselftobeledaboutbyaropeandheadcollar,andwoulddrinkfromabucketandeatfrommyhand.Heusedtobelefttograzepicketedbyalongropetoastakeintheground;butoneafternoononreturningtocampIfound,muchtomyannoyance,thathehaddisappeared.Onmakingenquiry,Ilearnedfrommyservantsthataherdofwildzebrahadgallopedcloseby,andthatthishadsoexcitedhimthathemanagedto

tearthepicketingpegoutofthegroundandsorejoinhisbrethreninfreedom.

Somefewdaysafteroursuccessfulsortieagainstthezebra,thegreatcaravanofBasogaportersreturnedfromthecoastontheirwaybacktotheirowncountry;butalas,withwhataterribledifferenceintheirappearance!Alltheirgaietyandlightheartednesswasgone,andthepoorfellowswereinapitiablestate.Afrightfulepidemicofdysenteryhadbrokenoutamongstthem,doubtlesscausedbytheirhavingeatenfoodtowhichtheywereentirelyunaccustomed,theirsimplediet



intheirownhomesconsistingalmostentirelyofbananas,fromwhichtheyalsomakeamostrefreshingandstimulatingdrink.Theranksofthecaravanwereterriblydecimated,anddozensofmenwereleftdeadordyingalongtheroadsideaftereachmarch.Itwasacaseofthesurvivalofthefittest,asofcourseitwasquiteimpossibleforthewholecaravantohaltinthewildernesswhereneitherfoodnorwaterwastobehad.TherewasonlyoneEuropeanwiththeparty,andalthoughheworkedlikeaslavehecoulddoverylittleamongsuchanumber,whiletheBasogathemselvesseemedquiteindifferenttothesufferingsoftheircomrades.Thirteenpoorwretchesfellouttodieclosetomytent;theywereinthemosthopelessconditionandfartooweaktobeabletodoanythingatallforthemselves.AssoonasIdiscoveredthem,Iboiledabucketfulofwater,addedsometinsofcondensedmilkandthegreaterpartofabottleofbrandytoit,andfedthemwiththemixture.Theirfeeblecriesforsomeofthisnourishmentwereheartrending;somecouldonlywhisper,"Bwana,Bwana"("Master,Master"),andthenopentheirmouths.Oneortwoofthem,indeed,couldhardlydoeventhis,andweresoweakastobeunabletoswallowthespoonfulofmilkwhichIputbetweentheirlips.Intheendsixprovedtobebeyondallhelp,anddiedthatnight;buttheremainingsevenImanagedtonurseintocompleterecoveryinaboutafortnight'stime.Asourcampwasmovedon,theywerebroughtalongfromplacetoplaceonthetopoftrucks,untilfinallytheywerewellenoughtoresumetheirjourneytoUsoga,verygratefulindeedforthecarewhichwehadtaken

ofthem.

ThedayafterIfirstfoundthesestrickennativesIhadarrangedtorideonmyponyforsomemilesinadvanceoftherailway,inordertomakearrangementsforthebuildingofatemporarybridgeovertheStonyAthiRiver--atributaryoftheAthi,andso-calledonaccountoftheenormousnumbersofstonesinitsbedandalongitsbanks.Iorderedmytenttofollowmelaterintheday,andleftdirectionsforthecareofthesickBasoga,asIknewIshouldbeawayallnight.Myroadlayalongtheroutetakenbythehome-returningcaravan,andeveryhundredyardsorsoIpassedtheswollencorpseofsomeunfortunateporterwhohadfallenoutanddiedbythewayside.BeforeverylongIcameupwiththerearguardofthisstragglingarmy,andhereIwaswitnessofas

unfeelinganactofbarbarismascanwellbeimagined.Apoorwretch,utterlyunabletogoastepfurther,rolledhimselfupinhisscarletblanketandlaydownbytheroadsidetodie;whereupononeofhiscompanions,covetingthehighly-colouredandhighly-prizedarticle,turnedback,seizedoneendoftheblanket,andcallouslyrolledthedyingmanoutofitasonewouldunrollabaleofgoods.Thiswastoomuchforme,soIputspurstomyponyandgallopeduptothescoundrel,makingasiftothrashhimwithmykiboko,orwhipmadeofrhinoceroshide.Inamomentheputhishandonhisknifeandhalfdrewitfromitssheath,butonseeingmedismountandpointmyrifleathim,hedesistedandtriedtorunaway.Imadeitcleartohimbysigns,however,thatIwouldfireifhedidnotatoncegobackandreplacetheblanketroundhisdyingcomrade.Thisheeventuallydid,

thoughsullenlyenough,andIthenmarchedhiminfrontofmetothemaincampofthecaravan,somelittledistancefurtheron.HereIhandedhimovertotheofficerincharge,who,Iamgladtosay,hadhimsoundlythrashedforhisbrutalityandtheft.

Afterperformingthislittleactofretributivejustice,IpushedontowardstheStonyAthi.Ontheway--whilestillnotfarfromthecaravancamp--IspiedaGrant'sgazelleinthedistance,andbytheaidofmyglassesdiscoveredthatitwasafine-lookingbuckwithacapitalpairofhorns.AfewBasogafromthecaravanhadfollowedme,doubtless



inthehopeofobtainingmeat,ofwhichtheyareinordinatelyfond;so,handingthemmypony,IwriggledfromtufttotuftandcrawledalonginthefoldsofthegrounduntileventuallyIgotnearenoughforasafeshot,whichbowledtheantelopeoverstone-dead.ScarcelyhadhedroppedwhentheBasogaswoopeddownonhim,rippedhimopen,anddevouredhugechunksoftherawandstillquiveringflesh,lappingupthewarmbloodinthepalmsoftheirhands.InreturnforthemeatwhichIgavethem,twoofthemwillinglyagreedtogoonwithmeandcarrytheheadandhaunchofthegazelle.WhenwehadgotverynearlytotheplacewhereIintendedtocampforthenight,agreatwart-hogsuddenlyjumpedupalmostatmyhorse'sfeet,andashehadveryfineandexceptionallylongtusks,Idismountedatonceandbaggedhimtoo.TheBasogaweredelightedatthis,andpromptlycutoffthehead;butmyownpeople,whoarrivedwithmytentjustatthisjuncture,andwhowereallgoodMohammedans,werethoroughlydisgustedatthesightofthisveryhideous-lookingpig.

IcampedforthenightonthebanksoftheStonyAthi,closetowheretherailwaywastocross,andmademynotesofwhatwasnecessaryforthetemporarybridge.Atthetimetheriverwasabsolutelydry,butIknewthatitmightatanymomentbecomearoaringtorrentifrainshouldsetin;itwouldthereforebenecessarytospanitwithaforty-footgirderinordertopreventconstant"washouts"duringtherainyseason.ThenextmorningIstartedearlyonmyreturnto

railhead.OnmywayIhadtopassthecampwhichtheBasogacaravanhadjustleft,butthespectacleofaboutadozennewly-madegraveswhichthehyenashadalreadytornopencausedmetoputspurstomyhorseandtogallopasfastaspossiblethroughthepestilentialspot.WhenIhadalmostgotbacktorailheadIhappenedtonoticeahugeserpentstretchedoutonthegrass,warminghimself,hisskinofoldgoldandbrightgreensparklingbrilliantlyinthesunshine.HeappearedtotakelittlenoticeofmeasIcautiouslyapproached,andwasprobablydrowsyandsatedwithaheavymeal.Ishothimthroughtheheadashelay,andthemuscularcontortionsafterdeaththroughouthislongbodygavemeaveryvividideaofthetremendoussqueezingpowerpossessedbythesereptiles.Skinninghimwasaneasyprocess,butunfortunatelyhisbeautifulcolouringsoondisappeared,theoldgoldturningtowhiteand

thebrightgreentolustrelessblack.

CHAPTERXX

ADAYONTHEATHIRIVER

Inspiteofallourdifficulties,rapidprogresscontinuedtobemadewiththeline.EachdayrailheadcreptamileorsofurtheracrossthePlains,andonApril24wereachedtheStonyAthiRiver,whereour

greatcampwaspitchedforafewdayswhilethetemporarybridgewasbeingthrownacrossthedrybedofthestream.StillanothertemporarybridgehadtobearrangedfortheAthiitself,whichwassomeeightmilesfurtheron,soIhadtomakeoneortwoexpeditionstothisriverinordertoselectasuitableplaceforthecrossingandtomakevariousotherarrangements.OnoneoftheseoccasionsIwasbusyattendingtothepitchingofmytentafterarrivingattheAthilateintheevening,whenonlookingroundIwasverymuchsurprisedtoseetwoEuropeanladiessittingundertheshadeofsometreesontheriverbank.AsIknewthatthiswasanythingbutasafeplaceinwhichto



rest,owingtothenumberoflionsabout,IwentuptothemtoseeifIcouldbeofanyassistance,andfoundthattheywereAmericanmissionariesjourneyingtotheirstationsfurtherinland.Theywerewaitingfortheircampequipmenttoarrive,buttheirportershadbeenconsiderablydelayedbysomeveryheavyrain,whichofcoursemadetheroadsbadandthetentsaboutdoubletheirusualweight.Themenofthepartywereexpectedeverymomentwiththeporters,buttherewasasyetnosignofthelittlecaravan,andasamatteroffactitdidnotarriveuntillongafternightfall.InthesecircumstancesitwasperhapsagreatblessingthatIhappenedtobethere;andastheladieswerebothverytiredandhungry,Iwasgladtobeabletoplacemytentattheirdisposalandtoofferthemasgoodadinnerasitwaspossibletoprovideinthewilds.Itisindeedwonderfulwhatdangersandhardshipsthesedelicatelynurturedladieswillfacecheerfullyinordertocarryouttheirself-appointedmission.

Whentheyhadleftnextmorningtoresumetheirjourney,Istartedoutandmadeasearchupanddowntheriverfortheproperpositionformytemporarybridge.Afterathoroughexaminationofallthepossiblesituations,IchosethemostsuitableandpitchedmytentclosetoitforanightortwowhileImadethenecessarycalculationsforcarryingoutthework.ThecrossingonwhichIhaddecidedhadtobeapproachedbyasomewhatsharpcurveintheline,andinlayingthisoutwiththetheodoliteIexperiencedconsiderabledifficulty,asforsomereasonor

otherIcouldnotmakethelastpegonthecurvecomeanywherenearthetangentpointwherethecurveshouldlinkupwiththestraight.Irepeatedthewholeoperationtimeaftertime,butalwayswiththesameresult.EventuallyIcametotheconclusionthattheremustbesomemistakeinthetableofanglesfromwhichIhadbeenworking,soIstartedtoworkthemoutformyselfandsoondiscoveredaseriousmisprint.Thisbeingrectifiedinmycalculations,Iproceededtolayoutthecurveagain,whenatlasteverythingcameoutaccuratelyandtomysatisfaction.

AfterIhadpeggedoutthistemporarydiversionoftheline,IthoughtIrichlydeservedafewhours'play,andaccordinglydeterminedtotrymyluckafterlionsup-streamtowardsthesourceoftheAthi.The

river--whichrunsalmostduenorthhere,beforetakingaturneastwardtotheIndianOcean--formspartofthewesternboundaryoftheAthiPlains,andisfringedallalongitscoursebyabeltofthornyhardwoodtrees.Insomeplacesthisfringeisquitenarrow,whileinothersitisaboutaquarterofamilewide,withgrassygladeshereandthereamongthetrees.Everynowandagain,too,thestreamitselfwidensoutintoabroadstretchofwater,nearlyalwayscoveredoverwithtallreedsandelephantgrass,whilealongthebanksarefrequentpatchesofstuntedbushes,whichstruckmeasverylikelyplacesforthekingofbeaststosleepinafterhavingdrunkattheriver.Ihadnoticedthatafterhavingeatenanddrunkwell,alionwouldthrowhimselfdownquitewithoutcautioninthefirstshadyspothecameto;ofcoursenothingexceptmaneverdisturbshim,andevenofmanthe

lionsinthispartofthecountryhadasyetnofear,fortheyhadrarelyifeverbeenhuntedprevioustomytime.

AsIfeltrathertiredaftermymorning'swork,Idecidedtousemyponyonthisexpedition,althoughasaruleIwentonfoot.Mahinaandhalf-a-dozennativestobeatthebeltoftreesweretoaccompanyme,andafterahastylunchoffwestarteduptheleftbankoftheriver.Iwalkedforsomedistanceatfirst,partlybecausethegroundwasverystonyandpartlybecauseIthoughtalionmightsuddenlyboundoutofsomelikelypatchesinfrontofthebeaters;butafterhavinggone



aboutsixmilesinthiswaywithoutadventureofanykind,Idecidedtomountagain.Atthistimethebeaterswereinlineaboutahundredyardsbehindme,shoutingandhalloingwithalltheirmightastheyadvancedthroughthescrubandundergrowth,whileIrodewelltotheflanksoastobereadyforanyemergency.Justasthemengotuptoaratherthickerpieceofjunglethanusual,IfanciedIsawamovementamongthebushesandpulledupsuddenlytowatchthespot,butdidnotdismount.Thenextmomentoutboundedalioness,whoracedstraightacrosstheopenstripintothenextpatchofjungle,quicklyfollowedbyanother.Throwingmyselfoffmypony,Iseizedmyrifletogetashotatthesecondlionessasshegallopedpast,andwasjustabouttopullthetrigger,whentomyutteramazementoutsprangahugeblack-manedlion,makingallhasteafterhismates.Beforehecouldreachthefurtherthicket,however,Ifired,andhadthesatisfactionofhearingthedeepgrowlthattellsofaserioushit.

ThebeatersandInowadvancedwithgreatcare,takingadvantageofeverybitofcoverandkeepingasharplook-outforthewoundedanimalaswecreptfromtreetotree.Fullyaquarterofanhourmusthaveelapsedinthisslowyetexcitingsearch,beforeoneofthemen,somefiftyorsixtyyardstomyleft,andalittleaheadoftheline,calledoutthathecouldseethelionawaitingourapproach,withhisheadjustvisibleinalargebedofrushesonlyashortdistanceinfrontofwhereIthenwas.AlmostatthesamemomentIfoundbloodmarksleftby

thewoundedanimal,leadingapparentlytoakindofgapinthebankoftheriver,whichhadevidentlybeenworndownbyarhinogoingtoandfrotodrink.Iaccordinglymadeforthiswiththegreatestcaution,orderingallthemen,exceptMahina,toremainbehind;andasnoiselesslyaspossibleIslippedfromcovertocoverinmyendeavourtoobtainapeepoverthebank.Isawthatitwasnousetoattempttoclimbatree,astheoverspreadingfoliagewouldhavepreventedmefromobtaininganyviewahead;soIcontinuedmyslowadvancewithafast-beatingheart,notknowingwherethehugebrutewasandexpectingeverymomentthathewouldchargeoutatmeoverthebankfromhisreedyrefuge.Emboldenedtoacertainextent,however,bythefactthatuptillthenIhadheardnomovementonthepartofmyenemy,Icreptsteadilyforwardandatlast,fromtheshelterofafriendlytree

behindtheboleofwhichIhidmyself,Iwasabletolookoverthebank.Andthere,nottwentyyardsfromme,crouchedthelion--luckilywatching,notme,butthenativewhohadfirstseenhimandwhohaddirectedmetowherehewas.Iraisedmyrifleverycautiously,withoutmakingtheslightestsound,andsteadyingthebarrelagainstthetrunkofthetreeandstandingontip-toeinordertogetabetterview,Ifiredplumpatthesideofhishead.Itwasasifhehadsuddenlybeenhitwithasledgehammer,forhefelloverinstantlyandlaylikealog.

Onmycallingoutthatthelionwasdonefor,thebeaterscamerunningupshoutingwithjoy;andalthoughIwarnedthemtobecareful,asthetwolionesseswereprobablystillcloseathand,theydidnotseemtocareintheslightestandinatwinklinghadthedeadlionliftedfrom

thereedsontothedrybank.BeforeIallowedanythingfurthertobedone,however,Ihadthepatchofrushesthoroughlybeatenout:butasnotracesofthelionessescouldbefound,wecommencedtoskinmyfinetrophy.Whenthiswasabouthalfdone,IdecidedtoletMahinafinishtheoperation,whileIwentonaheadtotrymyluckeitherwithmorelionsorwithanyothergamethatmightcomemyway.Ifolloweduptheriveralmosttoitssource,butnomorelionscrossedmypath.OnceindeedIfeltconvincedthatIsawone,andgavechasetoitwithallmymightasitrushedthroughthelonggrass:butanearerviewshowedmenothingmorethanahugewart-hog.AsIwantedthetusks,whichI



noticedwereveryfineones,Ifiredbutonlybadlyhippedhim:soIranupasfastasIcouldandattenyardsfiredagain.ThistimeImissedhimentirely,andwaspuzzledtoaccountformyfailureuntilIlookedatmybacksightandfoundthatbysomeaccidentithadgotraisedandthatIhadthe200-yardssightup.Onrectifyingthis,anothershotquicklyputthewoundedanimaloutofpain.

Stillmyday'ssportwasnotyetover.WhileramblingbackthroughthetreesIcaughtsightofagraceful-lookingantelopeinthedistance,andoncautiouslyapproachingclosersawthatitwasanimpala.Mystalkwascrownedwithsuccess,thebeautifulanimalbeingbaggedwithoutmuchtrouble;andonreachingmyprizeIwasdelightedtofindthatitshornsweremuchabovetheaverage.OnanotheroccasionIwasfortunateenoughtogetasuccessfulsnapshotofanimpalajustafterithadbeenshotbyafriend,andthephotographgivesaverygoodideaofwhatminewaslike.

Asitwasnowgrowinglate,ImadeallhastebacktowhereIhadleftMahinaskinningthelion,buttomyastonishmenthewasnowheretobeseen.Ifiredseveralshotsandshoutedmyselfhoarse,allwithoutresponse;andtheonlyconclusionIcouldcometowasthathehadreturnedtothecampatthetemporarybridge.Iaccordinglypushedon,reachinghomelongafterdark;andthereIfoundMahinasafeandsound,withthelion'sskinalreadypeggedouttodry,sothatIcouldnot

finditinmyhearttogivehimtheseverescoldinghedeservedforhavingreturnedwithoutme.NextmorningIpackedupmytrophiesandreturnedtomyworkatrailhead.OnmywaybackIhappenedtomeetoneoftheotherengineers,whocalledout,"Hallo!Ihearyouhavegotafineline."

Mythoughtsbeingfullofmyadventuresofthedaybefore,Ianswered:"Yes,Idid;buthowonearthdidyouhearofit?"

"Oh!"hesaid,"Reynoldstoldme."

"Goodheavens,"Ireplied,"why,heleftbeforeIshotit."

"Shot?"heexclaimed,"whateverdoyoumean?"

"Didn'tyousay,"Iasked,"thatyouheardIhadgotafinelion?"

"No,no,"washisreply;"afinelineforthetemporarybridgeovertheriver."

Webothlaughedheartilyatthemisunderstanding,andwhenhesawmytrophy,whichwasbeingcarriedbymymanjustbehindme,heagreedthatitwasquitefineenoughtomonopolisemythoughtsandpreventmefromthinkingofanythingelse.

CHAPTERXXI

THEMASAIANDOTHERTRIBES

AfewMasaimaystillbeseenontheAthiPlains,butasaruletheykeepawayfromtherailway,themajorityofthetribebeingnowsettledontheLaikipiaPlateau.Formerlytheywerebyfarthemostpowerful



nativeraceinEastAfrica,andwhenonthewar-pathweretheterrorofthewholecountryfromthefurthestlimitsofUgandatoMombasaitself.Theirnumbershavelatterlybecomegreatlyreducedthroughfamineandsmall-pox,buttheremnantofthetribe,moreespeciallythemen,arestillafine,lithe,clean-limbedpeople.WhileIwasstationedinthePlainsImanagedtohaveaninterviewwiththechief,Lenana,atoneofhis"royalresidences,"akraalnearNairobi.Hewasaffabilityitself,presentingmewithaspearandshieldasamementooftheoccasion;buthehadthereputationofbeingamostwilyoldpotentate,andIfoundthisquitecorrect,aswheneverhewasaskedanawkwardquestion,hewouldnudgehisPrimeMinisterandcommandhimtoanswerforhim.Imanagedtoinducehimandhiswivesandchildrentositfortheirphotograph,andtheymadeaveryfinegroupindeed;butunfortunatelythenegativeturnedoutverybadly.IalsogotLenana'snephewandawarriortoengageincombatwiththespearandshield,andbothmadefineplaywiththeirlongkeenblades,whichmorethanoncepenetratedtheopponent'sshield.

TheMasaihaveawonderfullywell-organisedmilitarysystem.Thewarriors(elmorani)ofthetribemustattendstrictlytotheirduties,andarenotallowedtomarryortosmokeortodrinkuntilaftertheirtermofactiveserviceiscompleted.Besidesthespearandshieldtheygenerallycarryaswordorknobkerrie,suspendedfromaraw-hidewaist-belt;andtheycertainlylookveryferociousintheir

weird-lookingheaddresswhenonthewarpath.OnceortwiceImetdetachmentsoutontheseexpeditions,buttheywerealwaysquitefriendlytome,eventhoughIwaspracticallyalone.BeforetheadventofBritishrule,however,suddenraidswereconstantlybeingmadebythemontheweakertribesinthecountry;andwhenakraalwascapturedallthemaledefenders-wereinstantlykilledwiththespear,whilethewomenwereputtodeathduringthenightwithclubs.TheMasai,indeed,nevermadeslavesortookprisoners,anditwastheirproudboastthatwhereapartyofelmoranihadpassed,nothingofanykindwasleftalive.Theobjectoftheseraidswas,ofcourse,tocapturelivestock,fortheMasaiarenotanagriculturalpeopleandtheirwealthconsistsentirelyintheirherdsofcattle,sheepandgoats.Curiouslyenoughtheydonothuntgame,althoughthecountryaboundswithit,butlive

principallyonbeefandmilk;anditisalsoacommoncustomforthemtodrinkdailyapintorsoofbloodtakenfromalivebullock.Astheythusliveentirelyoncattle,andascattlecannotthrivewithoutgoodpasture,itisnotunnaturaltofindthattheyhaveagreatreverenceforgrass.TheyalsoworshipaSupremeBeingwhomtheycallN'gai,butthistermisalsoappliedtoanythingwhichisbeyondtheirunderstanding.

PerhapsthemostcuriousofthecustomsoftheMasaiistheextractionofthetwofrontteethfromthelowerjaw.Itissaidthatthishabitoriginatedatatimewhenlockjawwasveryprevalentamongthetribe,anditwasfoundthatiftheseteethwerepulledoutfoodcouldstillbetaken.Thisexplanationseemsscarcelysatisfactoryorsufficient,

andIgiveitonlyforwhatitisworth:butwhateverthereasonforthecustom,theabsenceofthesetwoteethconstitutesamostdistinctiveidentifyingmark.IrememberoncebeingoutwithaMasaionedaywhenwecameacrossthebleachedskullofalongdefunctmemberofhistribe,ofcourseeasilyrecognisableassuchbytheabsenceoftheproperteeth.TheMasaiatoncepluckedahandfulofgrass,spatuponit,andthenplaceditverycarefullywithintheskull;thiswasdone,hesaid,toavertevilfromhimself.ThesamemanaskedmeamongmanyotherquestionsifmycountrywasnearertoGodthanhis.IamafraidIwasunableconscientiouslytoanswerhimintheaffirmative.



FormerlytheMasaiusedtospitinthefaceasamarkofgreatfriendship,butnowadays--likemostothernativeraces--theyhaveadoptedourEnglishfashionofshakinghands.

Anotherverycommoncustomamongstthemisthatofdistortingthelobeoftheearbystretchingituntilithangsdownquitefiveorsixinches.Itisthenpiercedanddecoratedinvariousways--bystickingthroughitapieceofwoodtwoorthreeinchesindiameter,oralittleroundtincanister,andbyhangingtoitpiecesofchain,rings,beads,orbunchesofbrass-headednails,accordingtofancy.Nearlyallthemenwearlittlebellsontheiranklestogivenoticeoftheirapproach,whilethewomenareveryfondofcoveringthemselveswithlargequantitiesofironorcopperwire.Theirlimbs,indeed,areoftenalmostcompletelyencasedwiththeserings,whichIshouldthinkmustbeveryheavyanduncomfortable:butnoMasaiwomanconsidersherselfaladyoffashionwithoutthem,andthemoreshepossessesthehigherdoesshestandinthesocialscale.

Asarule,theMasaidonotburytheirdead,astheyconsiderthiscustomtobeprejudicialtothesoil;thebodiesaresimplycarriedsomelittledistancefromthevillageandlefttobedevouredbybirdsandwildbeasts.Thehonourofburialisreservedonlyforagreatchief,overwhoseremainsalargemoundisalsoraised.IcameacrossoneofthesemoundsonedaynearTsavoandopeneditverycarefully,

butfoundnothing:possiblyIdidnotpursuemysearchdeepenoughintotheearth.Ingeneral,theMasaiareanuprightandhonourablesavagerace,anditisagreatpitythattheyaregraduallydyingout.

MoreorlessserfsoftheMasaiaretheWaN'derobbo,who,unliketheirover-lords,arearaceofhunters.Theyareseldomtobemetwith,however,astheyhideawayincavesandthickets,andkeepconstantlymovingfromplacetoplacefollowingthegame.NotlongagoIsawafewofthemintheneighbourhoodoftheEldamaRavine:buttheseweremoreorlesscivilised,andthegirls,whowerequitegraceful,hadabandonedthenativeundresscostumeforflowingwhiterobes.

InthedistrictfromNairobitotheKedongRiver,andintheKenya

Province,dwelltheWaKikuyu,whoaresimilartotheMasaiinbuild,butnotnearlysogood-looking.Likethelatter,theyusethespearandshield,thoughofadifferentshape;theirprincipalweapon,however,isthebowandpoisonedarrow.Theyalsofrequentlycarryarudelymadetwo-edgedshortswordinasheath,whichisslungroundthewaistbyabeltofrawhide.TheirfrontteetharefiledtoasharppointinthesamemannerasthoseofnearlyalltheothernativetribesofEastAfrica,withtheexceptionoftheMasai.Theyliveinlittlevillagescomposedofbeehivehutsandalwayssituatedintheverythickestpatchesofforestthattheycanfind,andtheircattlekraalsareespeciallystronglybuiltandcarefullyhidden.OnoneoccasionImanagedafteragreatdealofdifficultyandcrawlingonall-fourstomakemywayintooneofthesekraals,andwasmuchamazedtonotice

whatlabourandingenuityhadbeenexpendedonitsconstruction.UnliketheMasai,theWaKikuyuhaveafairlygoodideaofagriculture,andgrowcropsofm'tama(akindofnativegrainfromwhichflourismade),sugar-cane,sweetpotatoes,andtobacco.

TheWaKikuyuhavethereputationofbeingaverycowardlyandtreacherouspeople,andtheyhaveundoubtedlycommittedsomeverycrueldeeds.Afriendofmine,CaptainHaslem,withwhomIlivedforafewmonthsatTsavo,wasbarbarouslymurderedbysomemembersofthistribe.HeleftmetogouptotheKikuyucountryinchargeofthe



transport,andashewaskeenlyinterestedinfindingoutallaboutthetropicaldiseasesfromwhichtheanimalssuffered,hemadeithiscustomtodissectthebodiesofthosethatdied.ThesuperstitiousWaKikuyuwerefullyconvincedthatbythishebewitchedtheircattle,whichatthetimeweredyinginscoresfromrinderpest.So--instigatednodoubtbytheall-powerfulwitch-doctor--theytreacherouslykilledhim.Formypart,however,Ifoundthemnotnearlysoblackastheyhadbeenpaintedtome.IhadaboutfourhundredofthemworkingatonethingoranotheratNairobiandneverhadanytroublewiththem.OnthecontraryIfoundthemwell-behavedandintelligentandmostanxioustolearn.

AsisthecasewithallotherAfricanraces,thewomenoftheWaKikuyudothemanuallabourofthevillageandcarrytheheavyloadsfortheirlordsandmasters,thebundlesbeingheldinpositionontheirbackbyastrappassingroundtheforehead.

Notwithstandingthissomeofthemarequitepleasantlooking,andoncetheyhaveovercometheirfearoftheEuropean,donotobjecttobeingphotographed.

Oftheothertribestobemetwithinthispartoftheworld,theKavirondoarethemostinteresting.Theyareanindustrious,simplepeople,devotedtoagricultureandhospitableintheextreme--alittle

addictedtothieving,perhaps,butthenthatisscarcelyconsideredasinintheheartofAfrica.Theyareclothed(touseMarkTwain'sexpression)inlittlebutasmile,abeadortwohereandtherebeingconsideredampleraiment;neverthelesstheyaremodestintheirwaysandareonthewholeaboutthebestoftheEastAfricantribes.

CHAPTERXXII

HOWROSHANKHANSAVEDMYLIFE

OnMay12railheadreachedtheAthiRiver,where,astherewasagreatdealofmiscellaneousworktobedone,ourheadquartersremainedestablishedforsomelittletime.Onedaynotlongafterwehadsettleddowninournewcamp,IwasjoinedquiteunexpectedlybymyfriendDr.Brock,whohadsharedtheexcitingadventurewithmeatTsavothenightwewereattackedinthegoods-wagonbyoneoftheman-eaters.NowBrockhadsofarnotbeenfortunateenoughtobagalion,andwasconsequentlymostanxioustodoso.Shortlyafterhisarrival,accordingly,hesuggestedthatweshouldgoforashootingexpeditiononthemorrow,andthatIshouldtrotoutforhisbenefitoneofthelocallions.OfcourseIsaidIshouldbedelighted--Iwasalwaysreadyforahuntwhenitwaspossibleformetogetaway,andasjustatthe

timewewere"heldup"bytheAthiRiver,Icouldmanageadayoffquiteeasily.Sowemadetheusualpreparationsforaday'sabsencefromcamp--filledourwater-bottleswithtea,putaloafofbreadandatinofsardinesinourhaversacks,lookedcarefullytoourriflesandammunition;andwarnedthe"boys"whoweretoaccompanyusasbeaterstobereadybeforedawn.Idecidedtomakeaveryearlystart,asIknewthatthemostlikelyplaceforlionslaysomedistanceaway,andIwantedtogetthereifpossiblebydaybreak.Weshouldthushaveabetterchanceofcatchingoneofthelordsoftheplainashereturnedfromhisnightlydepredationstothekindlyshelterofthetallgrass



andrusheswhichfringedthebanksoftheriver.Wethereforeretiredtorestearly,andjustasIwasdozingofftosleep,oneofmyIndianservants,RoshanKhan,puthisheadthroughtheslitatmytentdoorandaskedleavetoaccompanythe"Sahibs"inthemorningsothathemightseewhatshikar(hunting)waslike.ThisrequestIsleepilygranted,thinkingthatitcouldmakelittledifferencewhetherhecamewithusorstayedbehindincamp.Asthingsturnedout,however,itmadeallthedifferenceintheworld,forifhehadnotaccompaniedus,myshikarwouldinallprobabilityhaveendeddisastrouslynextday.Hewasaverydusky-colouredyoungPathanabouttwentyyearsofage,litheandactive,andhonestandpleasant-looking,asPathansgo.Hehadbeenmy"boy"forsometimeandwasmuchattachedtome,besideshavingatouchingfaithinmyprowessinshikar:probably,indeed,thiswasthereasonwhyhestucksoclosetomethroughoutthehunt.

WebreakfastedbycandlelightandmanagedtogetseveralmilesonourwaytowardsthesourceoftheAthibeforedawn.Assoonasitwasthoroughlydaylight,weextendedinline,Dr.Brock,astheguest,beingplacedinthemostlikelypositionforashot,whileRoshanKhanfollowedclosebehindmewiththeday'sprovisions.Inthisorderwetrudgedsteadilyforwardforacoupleofmileswithoutcomingacrossanything,thoughweadvancedthroughmanypatchesofrushesandlonggrasslikelytoconcealourexpectedquarry.Itwasmostinterestingandexcitingworkallthesame,asweneverknewbutthatalionmight

thenextmomentjumpupatourveryfeet.Wehadjustbeatenthroughamosthopeful-lookingcovertwithoutsuccessandhadcomeoutontoabeautifulopengrassygladewhichstretchedawayforsomedistanceaheadofus,whenInoticedabigherdofwildebeestebrowsingquietlysomedistancetoourright.IknewthatBrockalsowantedawildebeeste,soIwhistledsoftlytohim,andpointedouttheweird-looking,bison-likeantelopes.Hecameacrossatonceandstartedofftowardstheherd,whileIsatdowntowatchtheproceedings.Hemadeabeautifulstalk,whichwasrenderedreallyverydifficultbytheopennatureofthecountry,butstillthewildebeestequicklynoticedhisapproachandkeptsteadilymovingon,untilatlasttheydisappearedoveroneofthegentleriseswhicharesuchafeatureoftheAthiPlains.

Istillsatandwaited,expectingeverymomenttohearthesoundofBrock'srifle.Sometimeelapsedwithoutashot,however,andIwasjustabouttofollowhimupandfindouthowthingsweregoing,whenRoshanKhansuddenlyexclaimedexcitedly:--"Dekko,Sahib,shenziatahain!"("Look,Sahib,thesavagesarecoming!").Iwasnotintheleastalarmedatthissomewhatstartlingannouncement,astheIndianscalledallthenativesoftheinteriorofAfricashenzi,orsavages;andonlookingroundIsawfivetall,slimMasaiapproachinginIndianfile,eachcarryingasix-footspearinhisrighthand.Oncomingnearer,theleaderofthepartyeagerlyaskedinSwahili,"WhatdoestheBwanaMakubwa("GreatMaster")desire?"

"Simba"("Lions"),saidI.

"Come,"hereplied,"Iwillshowyoumany."

Thisfilledmewithinterestatonce."Howfarawayarethey?"Iasked.

"M'balikidogo"("Alittledistance"),camethestereotypedreply.

IimmediatelyhadagoodlookroundforBrock,butcouldseenosignofhim,so,incasethe"many"lionsshouldgetawayinthemeantime,I



toldtheMasaitoleadtheway,andoffwestarted.

Asusual,them'balikidogoprovedagooddistance--overtwomilesinthiscase.Indeed,Ibegantogetimpatientatthelongtramp,andcalledouttotheMasaitoknowwherehislionswere;buthevouchsafedmenoanswerandcontinuedtowalksteadilyon,castingkeenglancesahead.AfteralittleIagainasked,"Wherearethelions?"Thistimeheextendedhisspearinamostdramaticmanner,andpointingtoaclumpoftreesjustahead,exclaimed:"Look,Master;therearethelions."Ilooked,andatoncecaughtsightofalionesstrottingoffbehindthebushes.Ialsosawsomesuspicious-lookingthingatthefootofoneofthebigtrees,butcametotheconclusionthatitwasonlyagrowthofsomekindprojectingfromthetrunk.Iwassoontobeundeceived,however,forasIstartedtoruntowardsthetreesinordertocutoffthefastdisappearinglionessfromastretchofrushesforwhichshewasmaking,alowandsinistergrowlmademelookcloserattheobjectwhichhadfirstarousedmysuspicions.TomysurpriseanddelightIsawthatitwastheheadofahugeblack-manedlionpeeringoutfrombehindthetrunkofthetree,whichcompletelyhidhisbody.Ipulledupshortandstaredathim.Althoughhewasnotseventyyardsawayfromme,yetowingtothenatureofthebackgrounditwasverydifficulttomakehimout,especiallyashekepthisheadperfectlystill,gazingsteadilyatme.ItwasonlywhenthegreatmouthopenedinanangrysnarlthatIcouldseeplainlywhathereallywas.Fora

fewsecondswestoodthusandlookedateachother;thenhegrowledagainandmadeoffafterthelioness.AsIcouldnotgetafairshotathimfromwhereIstood,IranwithallmymightforapointofvantagefromwhichImighthaveabetterchanceofbagginghimashepassed.

NowbythistimeIhadalmostgotbeyondthesurprisestagewherelionswereconcerned;yetImustadmitthatIwasthoroughlystartledandbroughttoafullstopinthemiddleofmyracebyseeingnolessthanfourmorelionessesjumpupfromthecovertwhichthelionhadjustleft.Inthetwinklingofaneyethreeofthemhaddisappearedaftertheirlordinlong,lowbounds,butthefourthstoodbroadsideon,looking,notatme,butatmyfollowers,whobythistimeweregroupedtogetherandtalkingandgesticulatingexcitedly.Thisgavemea

splendidchanceforashouldershotataboutfiftyyards'distance,soIkneltdownatonceandfiredaftertakingcarefulaim.Thelionessdisappearedfromsightinstantly,andonlookingoverthetopofthegrassIsawthatmyshothadtold,asshewasonherback,clawingtheairandgrowlingviciously.Asshelookedtometobedonefor,Ishoutedtosomeofthementoremainbehindandwatchher,whileIsetoffoncemoreataruntotrytocatchupthelion.Ifearedthatthecheckwiththelionessmighthavelosthimtomealtogether,buttomyreliefIsooncaughtsightofhimagain.Hehadnotmadeoffveryquickly,andhadprobablystoppedseveraltimestoseewhatIwasupto;indeedthemen,whocouldseehimallthetime,afterwardstoldmethatwhenheheardthegrowlofragefromthelionessaftershewasshot,hemadequitealonghalt,apparentlydeliberatingwhetherhe

shouldreturntoherrescue.Evidently,however,hehaddecidedthatdiscretionwasthebetterpartofvalour.Fortunatelyhewastravellingleisurely,andIwasdelightedtofindthatIwasgainingonhimfast;butIhadstilltorunabouttwohundredyardsatmybestpace,which,atanaltitudeofmorethan5,000feetabovesea-level,leavesoneverybreathlessattheendofit.

Whenthelionperceivedmerunningtowardshim,hetookuphisstationunderatree,wherehewashalfhiddenbysomelowbushes,abovewhichonlyhisheadshowed.Herehestood,watchingmyeverymovementand



givingventtohisangeratmypresenceinlow,threateninggrowls.Ididnotatalllikethelookofhim,andiftherehadbeenanothertreecloseby,Ishouldcertainlyhavescrambledupitintosafetybeforeattemptingtofire.Asamatteroffact,however,therewasnoshelterofanykindathand;so,asImeanttohaveatryforhimatallcosts,IsatdownwhereIwas,aboutsixtyyardsfromhim,andcoveredhisgreatheadwithmyrifle.Iwassobreathlessaftermyrun,andmyarmsweresoshaky,thatitwasallIcoulddotokeepthesightonthefierce-lookingtargetandIthoughttomyself,astheriflebarrelwobbledabout,"IfIdon'tknockhimoverwiththefirstshot,hewillbeoutofthesebushesanddownonmelikegreasedlightning--andthenIknowwhattoexpect."Itwasamostexcitingmoment,butinspiteoftheriskIwouldnothavemisseditfortheworld;so,takingassteadyanaimaswaspossibleinthecircumstances,Ipulledthetrigger.Instantlytheshaggyheaddisappearedfromview,andsuchasuccessionofangryroarsandgrowlscameupoutofthebushesthatIwasfairlystartled,andfeltkeenlyanxioustofinishhimoffbeforehecouldchargeoutandcovertheshortdistancewhichseparatedus.IthereforefiredhalfadozenshotsintothebushesatthespotwhereIimaginedhelay,andsoonthegrowlingandcommotionceased,andallwasstill.Iwasconfidentthebrutewasdead,soIcalleduponeofthementostayandwatchtheplace,whileIagainrushedoffatfullspeed--jumpingoversuchrocksandbushesascameinmyway--tohaveashotatalionessthatwasstillinsight.

Bythistimemyfollowersnumberedaboutthirtymen,aswhenoneishuntingintheseplainsnativesseemtospringfromnowhereinthemostmysteriousmanner,andattachthemselvestooneinthehopeofobtainingsameportionofthekill.BysignalIorderedthemtoadvanceinlineonthethicketinwhichthelionesshadjusttakenrefuge,whileItookupmypositionononeside,soastoobtainagoodshotwhenshebrokecovert.Thelineofnativesshoutingtheirnativecriesandstrikingtheirspearstogethersoondisturbedher,andoutshesprangintotheopen,makingforaclumpofrushesclosetotheriver.Unfortunatelyshebrokeoutatthemostunfavourablespotfrommypointofview,assomeofthenativesmaskedmyfire,andIhadconsequentlytowaituntilshegotalmosttotheedgeoftherushes.Whetherornot

IhitherthenIcannotsay;atanyrate,shemadegoodherescapeintothereeds,whereIdecidedtoleaveheruntilBrockshouldarrive.

InowretracedmystepstowardsthespotwhereIhadshotthelion,expecting,ofcourse,tofindthemanIhadtoldtowatchhimstillonguard.Tomyintensevexation,however,Ifoundthatmysentryhaddesertedhispostandhadjoinedtheothermenoftheparty,havingbecomefrightenedwhenleftbyhimself.TheresultofhisdisobediencewasthatnowIcouldnottellwherelaythedeadlion--or,rather,thelionwhichIbelievedtobedead;butIhadnointentionoflosingsofineatrophy,soIbeganasystematicsearch,dividingthejungleintostrips,andthusgoingoverthewholeplacethoroughly.Thetaskoffindinghim,however,wasnotsoeasyasmightbethought;thechase

afterthelionesshadtakenussomedistancefromwhereIhadshothim,andastherewerenumbersoftreesaboutsimilartothatunderwhichhefell,itwasreallyaverydifficultmattertohitupontherightplace.Atlastoneofthemensangoutjoyfullythathehadfoundthelionatthesametimerunningawayfromthespotashardaseverhecould.Anumberofthosenearesttohim,bothIndiansandnatives,hadmorecourageorcuriosity,andwentuptohavealookatthebeast.IshoutedtothemasIhurriedalongtobecarefulandnottogotoonear,incasebyanychancehemightnotbedead;buttheypaidlittleheedtothewarning,andbythetimeIgotup,somehalf-dozenofthem



weregatheredinagroupatthelion'stail,gesticulatingwildlyandchatteringeachinhisownlanguage,andallverypleasedandexcited.OngettingnearIaskedifthelionwasdead,andwastoldthathewasnearlyso,butthathestillbreathed.Hewaslyingatfulllengthonhisside,andwhenIsawhimatclosequartersIwasmoredelightedthanIcantell,forhewasindeedaveryfinespecimen.ForamomentortwoIstoodwiththegroupofnatives,admiringhim.Hestillbreathedregularly,ashisflanksheavedwitheachrespiration;butashelayabsolutelystillwithallthemenjabberingwithinayardofhim,Iassumedthathewasonthepointofdeathandunabletorise.Possessedwiththisbelief,Iveryfoolishlyallowedmycuriositytorunawaywithmycaution,andsteppedroundtohavealookathishead.ThemomentIcameintohisview,however,hesuddenlybecamepossessedofadiabolicalferocity.Withagreatroarhesprangtohisfeet,asifhewerequiteunhurt;hiseyesblazedwithfury,andhislipsweredrawnwellback,exposinghistusksandteethinawayIhopenevertowitnessagain.Whenthisperiloussituationsounexpectedlydevelopeditself,Iwasnotmorethanthreepacesawayfromhim.

Theinstantthelionrose,allthemenfledasiftheEvilOnehimselfwereafterthem,andmadeforthenearesttrees--withoneexception,forasItookastepbackwards,keepingmyeyeontheinfuriatedanimal,IalmosttrodonRoshanKhan,whohadstillremainedclosebehindme.Fortunatelyforme,Ihadapproachedthelion'sheadwithmy

rifleready,andasIsteppedbackIfired.Theimpactofthe.303bulletthrewhimbackonhishaunchesjustashewasintheactofspringing,butinaninstanthewasupagainandcomingformesoquicklythatIhadnoteventimetoraisemyrifletomyshoulder,butfiredpointblankathimfrommyhip,delayinghimforasecondorsoasbefore.Hewasupagainlikelightning,andagainatthemuzzleofmyrifle;andthistimeIthoughtthatnothingonearthcouldsaveme,asIwasalmostwithinhisclutches.Helpcamefromanunexpectedandunconsciousquarter,forjustatthiscriticalmomentRoshanKhanseemedallatoncetorealisethedangerofthesituation,andsuddenlyfledforhislife,screamingandshriekingwithallhismight.Beyondallquestionthismovementsavedme,forthesightofsomethingdartingawayfromhimdivertedthelion'sattentionfromme,andfollowinghis

naturalinstinct,hegavechaseinsteadtotheyellingfugitive.

RoshanKhanhavingthusunwittinglyrescuedmefrommyperilousposition,itnowbecamemyturntodoallIcouldtosavehim,ifthiswerepossible.Infarlesstimethanittakestotellthestory,Ihadswungroundafterthepursuinglion,levelledmyrifleandfired;butwhetherbecauseofthespeedatwhichhewasgoing,orbecauseofmyover-anxietytosavemy"boy",Imissedhimcompletely,andsawthebulletraisethedustattheheelsofaflyingMasai.LikelightningIloadedagainfromthemagazine,butnowthelionwaswithinaspringofhisprey,anditseemedhopelesstoexpecttosavepoorRoshanKhanfromhisclutches.Justatthismoment,however,theterrifiedyouthcaughtsightofthebruteoverhisleftshoulder,andprovidentially

madeaquickswervetotheright.Asthelionturnedtofollowhim,hecamebroadsideontome,andjustashehadRoshanKhanwithinstrikingdistanceandwasabouttoseizehim,hedroppedinthemiddleofwhatwouldotherwiseassuredlyhavebeenthefatalspring--bowledoverwithabrokenshoulder.Thisgavemetimetorunupandgivehimafinalshot,andwithadeeproarhefellbackfulllengthonthegrass,stone-dead.

IthenlookedroundtoseeifRoshanKhanwasallright,asIwasnotsurewhetherthelionhadsucceededinmaulinghimornot.Thesight



thatmetmyeyesturnedtragedyintocomedyinaninstant,andmademeroarwithlaughter;indeed,itwassoutterlyabsurdthatIthrewmyselfdownonthegrassandrolledoverandover,convulsedwithuncontrollablemirth.FortherewasRoshanKhan,half-wayupathorntree,earnestlybentongettingtotheverytopmostbranchasquicklyaseverhecouldclimb;notamoment,indeed,washeabletosparetocastaglanceatwhatwashappeningbeneath.Hispuggareehadbeentornoffbyonethorn,andwavedgracefullyinthebreeze;afancywaistcoatadornedanotherspikybranch,andhislongwhitecottongownwastorntoribbonsinhismadendeavourtoputasgreatadistanceaspossiblebetweenhimselfandthedeadlion.AssoonasIcouldstoplaughing,Icalledouttohimtocomedown,butquiteinvain.Therewasnostoppinghim,indeed,untilhehadreachedtheverytopofthetree;andeventhenhecouldscarcelybeinducedtocomedownagain.Poorfellow,hehadbeenthoroughlyterrified,andlittlewonder.

Myfollowersnowbegantoemergefromtheshelterofthevarioustreesandbusheswheretheyhadconcealedthemselvesaftertheirwildflightfromtheresuscitatedlion,andcrowdedroundhisdeadbodyinthehighestspirits.TheMasai,especially,seemeddelightedatthewayinwhichhehadbeendefeated,andtomysurpriseandamusementprovedthemselvesexcellentmimics,somethreeorfourofthembeginningatoncetoactthewholeadventure.Oneplayedthepartofthelionandjumpedgrowlingatacomrade,whoimmediatelyranbackwardsjustasI

haddone,shouting"Ta,Ta,Ta"andcrackinghisfingerstorepresenttherifle-shots.FinallythewholeaudienceroaredwithdelightwhenanotherboltedasfastashecouldtoRoshanKhan'streewiththepseudolionroaringafterhim.AttheendoftheseproceedingsupcameBrock,whohadbeenattractedtotheplacebythesoundofthefiring.Hewasmuchastonishedtoseemyfinedeadlionlyingstretchedout,andhisfirstremarkwas,"Youarealuckybeggar!"Afterwards,whenheheardthefullstoryoftheadventure,herightlyconsideredmeevenmoreluckythanhehadfirstthought.

OurnextbusinesswastogobacktothelionesswhichIhadfirstshotandleftfordead.Likehermate,however,shewasstillverymuchalivewhenwereachedher,soIstalkedcarefullyuptoaneighbouring

tree,fromwhoseshelterIgaveherthefinishingshot.WethenleftMahinaandtheothermentoskinthetwobeasts,andwentontotherusheswherethesecondlionesshadtakencover.Herealloureffortstoturnheroutfailed,sowereluctantlyabandonedthechaseandwerefatedtoseenomorelionsthatday.

Ouronlyotheradventurewaswithastolidoldrhino,whogavemeratherafrightandinducedBrocktoindulgeinsomelivelyexercise.Separatedbyaboutahundredyardsorso,wewerewalkingovertheundulatinggroundashortdistancefromtheriver,when,ongainingthetopofagentlerise,Isuddenlycameupontheungainlyanimalasitlaywallowinginahollow.ItjumpedtoitsfeetinstantlyandcameforwhereIstood,andasIhadnowishtoshootit,Imadeadashfor

coverroundtheknoll.Onreachingthetopoftherise,therhinowindedmycompanionandatoncechangeditsdirectionandmadeforhim.Brocklostnotimeinputtingonhisbestpaceinanendeavourtoreachtheshelterofatreewhichstoodsomedistanceoff,whileIsatdownandwatchedtheexcitingrace.Ithoughtitwouldbeaprettyclosething,butfeltconfidentthatBrock,whowasveryactive,wouldmanagetopullitoff.Whenhegotabouthalf-waytothetree,however,heturnedtoseehowfarhispursuerwasbehind,andindoingsoputhisfootinaholeintheground,andtomyhorrorfellheadoverheels,hisrifleflyingfromhisgrasp.Iexpectedthegreatbrutetobeon



himinamoment,buttomyintenserelieftheoldrhinostoppeddeadwhenhesawthecatastrophewhichhadtakenplace,andthen,failing(Isuppose)tounderstandit,suddenlymadeoffintheoppositedirectionashardashecouldgo.InthemeantimeBrockhadgottohisfeetagain,andracedfordearlifetothetreewithouteverlookinground.Itwasamostcomicalsight,andIsatontheriseandforthesecondtimethatdaylaughedtillmysidesached.

Afterthiswereturnedtothesceneofmymorning'sadventure,wherewefoundthattheinvaluableMahinahadfinishedskinningthetwolions.Weaccordinglymadeourwaybacktocampwithourtrophies,allofus,withperhapstheexceptionofRoshanKhan,wellsatisfiedwiththeday'souting.WheneverafterwardsIwantedtochaffthis"boy",Ihadonlytoaskwhetherhewouldliketocomeandseesomemoreshikar.Hewouldthenlookverysolemn,shakehisheademphaticallyandassureme"Kabhinahin,Sahib"("Neveragain,Sir").

CHAPTERXXIII

ASUCCESSFULLIONHUNT

WhentheAthiriverhadbeenbridged,thesectionofthelinetoNairobiwaspushedforwardasrapidlyaspossible,andfromdawntodarkweallexertedourselvestotheveryutmost.Oneday(May28)theweatherwasexceptionallyhot,andIhadbeenoutinthebroilingsuneversincedaylightsuperintendingtheconstructionofbanksandcuttingsandtheerectionoftemporarybridges.Onreturningtomyhut,therefore,ataboutthreeo'clockintheafternoon,Ithrewmyselfintoalongdeckchair,tootiredforanythingbeyondalongcooldrink.HereIrestedforanhourorso,amusedbythebustleatthesmallwaysidestationwehadjustbuilt,andidlywatchingourtinyconstructionengineforgingitsway,withagreatdealofclankingandpuffing,upasteepgradientjustacrosstheriver.Itwastouch-and-go

whetheritwouldmanagetogetitsheavyloadofrailsandsleeperstothetopoftheinclineornot,andIbecamesointerestedinthecontestbetweensteamandfrictionandgravity,thatIdidnotnoticethatavisitorhadapproachedandwasstandingquietlybesideme.

Onhearingtheusualsalutation,however,Iturnedroundandsawaleanandwitheredhalf-bredMasai,clothedinaveryinadequatepieceofwildebeestehidewhichwasmerelyslippedundertheleftarmandloopedupinaknotovertherightshoulder.Hestoodforamomentwiththerighthandheldoutonalevelwithhisshoulder,thefingersextendedandthepalmturnedtowardsme--allindicatingthathecameonafriendlyvisit.Ireturnedhissalutation,andaskedhimwhathewanted.Beforeanswering,hedroppeddownonhisheels,hisoldbones

crackingashedidso."IwanttoleadtheGreatMastertotwolions,"hesaid;"theyhavejustkilledazebraandarenowdevouringit."OnhearingthisIstraightwayforgotthatIhadalreadydoneahardday'sworkinthefullblazeofanequatorialsun;IforgotthatIwastiredandhungry;infact,Iforgoteverythingthatwasnotdirectlyconnectedwiththeexcitementoflion-hunting.EventheoldsavageatmyfeetgrinnedwhenhesawhowkeenIwasaboutit.Ipliedhimwithquestions--weretheybothlionsorlionesses?hadtheymanes?howfarawaywerethey?andsoon.Naturally,tothelastquestionhewasboundtoanswer"M'balikidogo."Ofcoursetheywerenotfaraway;nothing



everistoanativeofEastAfrica.However,theupshotwasthatinaveryfewminutesIhadamulesaddled,andwiththeoldMasaiasguide,startedoffaccompaniedbymyfaithfulMahinaandanothercoolietohelptobringhometheskinifIshouldprovesuccessful.IalsoleftwordformyfriendSpooner,theDistrictEngineer,whohappenedtobeabsentfromcampjustatthemoment,thatIhadgoneaftertwolions,buthopedtobebackbynightfall.

Wetravelledatagoodpace,andwithinanhourhadcoveredfullysixmiles;stilltherewasnosignoflions.OnthewaywewerejoinedbysomeWaKamba,evenmorescantilyattiredthanourguide,andsoonadisputearosebetweenthesehangers-onandtheoldMasai,whorefusedtoallowthemtoaccompanyus,ashewasafraidthattheywouldseizeallthezebra-meatthatthelionshadnotalreadyeaten.However,Itoldhimnottobother,buttohurryupandshowmethelions,andthatIwouldlookafterhimallright.Eventually,ongettingtothelowcrestofoneofthelongswellsintheground,ourguideextendedalongskinnyfingerandsaidproudly,"Tazama,Bwana"("See,Master").Ilookedinthedirectioninwhichhepointed,andsureenough,aboutsixhundredyardsoffwerealionandalionessbusilyengagedonthecarcaseofazebra.Onusingmyfield-glasses,Iwasamusedtoobserveajackalinattendanceonthepair.Everynowandthenhewouldcometooclosetothezebra,whenthelionwouldmakeashortrushathimandscarehimaway.Thelittlejackallookedmostridiculous,

scamperingoffbeforethehugebeastwithhistailwelldown;butnosoonerdidthelionstopandreturntohismealthanhecreptneareragain.Thenativessay,bytheway,thatalionwilleateverykindofanimal--includingevenotherlions--exceptajackalorahyena.Iwasalsointerestedtonoticethewayinwhichtheliongotatthefleshofthezebra;hetookashortrunatthebody,andputtinghisclawswellintotheskin,inthismannertoreoffgreatstripsofthehide.

WhileIwasthusstudyingthepicture,myfollowersbecameimpatientatmyinactivity,andcominguptothetopoftherise,showedthemselvesonthesky-line.Thelionssawthematonce,turningroundandstandingerecttostareatthem.Therewasnotanatomofcovertobeseen,noranychanceoftakingadvantageoftherollingground,foritdidnot

slopeintherequireddirection;soIstartedtowalkintheopeninasidelongdirectiontowardstheformidable-lookingpair.Theyallowedmetocomeahundredyardsorsonearerthem,andthenthelionessbolted,thelionfollowingheratamoreleisurelytrot.Assoonastheyleftthebodyofthezebra,myAfricanfollowingmadearushforit,andbeganafiercefightovertheremains,sothatIhadtorestoreorderandleaveacoolietoseethatourguidegotthelargeshare,ashedeserved.Inthemeantimethelion,hearingthenoiseofthesquabble,haltedonthecrestofthehilltotakeadeliberatelookatme,andthendisappearedoverthebrow.IjumpedontomymuleandgallopedashardasIcouldafterhim,andluckilyfoundthepairstillinsightwhenIreachedthetopoftherise.Assoonastheysawmefollowingthemup,thelionesstookcovertinsomelonggrassthatalmost

concealedherwhenshelaydown,butthelioncontinuedtomovesteadilyaway.AccordinglyImadeforapointwhichwouldbringmeabouttwohundredyardstotherightofthelioness,andwhichwouldleaveadeepnaturalhollowbetweenus,soastogivemeabetterchance,intheeventofacharge,ofbowlingheroverasshecameuptherisetowardsme.Icouldplainlymakeoutherlight-colouredforminthegrass,andtookcarefulaimandfired.Inaninstantshewaskickingonherbackandtossingabout,evidentlyhardhit;inafewsecondsmoreshelayperfectlystill,andIsawthatshewasdead.



Inowturnedmyattentiontothelion,whomeanwhilehaddisappearedoveranotherrise.BythistimeMahinaandtheotherIndian,withthreeorfourofthedisappointedWaKamba,hadcomeup,sowestartedoffinabodyinpursuitofhim.Ifeltsurethathewaslurkingsomewhereinthegrassnotfaroff,andIknewthatIcoulddependuponthenativeeyetofindhimifheshowedsomuchasthetipofhisear.NorwasIdisappointed,forwehadscarcelytoppedthenextrisewhenoneoftheWaKambaspottedthedarkbrownheadofthebruteasheraiseditforaninstantabovethegrassinordertowatchus.Wepretendednottohaveseenhim,however,andadvancedtowithintwohundredyardsorso,when,asheseemedtobegettinguneasy,Ithoughtitbesttoriskashotevenatthisrange.Iputupthe200-yardssightandthebulletfellshort;butthelionnevermoved.Raisingthesightanotherfiftyyards,IrestedtherifleonMahina'sbackforthenextshot,andagainmissed;fortunately,however,thelionstillremainedquiet.IthendecidedtoputintopracticetheschemeIhadthoughtoutthedayIsatastridethelionIhadkilledontheKapitiPlain:soItoldallmyfollowerstomoveofftotheright,takingthemulewiththem,andtomakeahalf-circleroundtheanimal,whileIlaymotionlessinthegrassandwaited.Therusesucceededadmirably,forasthemenmovedroundsodidthelion,offeringmeatlastasplendidshouldershot.Itookverycareful,steadyaimandfired,withtheresultthatherolledoverandover,andthenmadeoneortwoattemptstogetupbutfailed.Ithenranuptowithinafewyardsofhim,and--helplessashewas

withabulletthroughbothshoulders--hewasstillgame,andtwistroundsoastofaceme,givingventallthetimetosavagegrowls.Afinalshotlaidhimout,however,andweatonceproceededtoskinhim.Whilewewerebusydoingthis,oneoftheWaKambasuddenlydrewmyattentiontothefactthatwewereactuallybeingstalkedatthatverymomentbytwootherlions,whoeventuallyapproachedtowithinfivehundredyards'distanceandthenlaydowntowatchusskinningtheirdeadbrother,theirbigshaggyheadsrisingeverynowandagainabovethegrasstogiveusaprolongedstare.AtthetimeIlittleknewwhatastirringadventurewasinstoreformenextdaywhileinpursuitofthesesamebrutes.

Itwasalmostdarkwhentheskinningprocesswasfinished,sowithout

delaywestartedonourwaybacktocamp,whichwasaboutsevenmilesoff.ThelionessIthoughtIshouldleavetobeskinnedthenextday;butthemenIsentouttodothejobonthemorrowwereunabletofindanytraceofher--theyprobablymissedtheplacewhereshelay,forIamsurethatIkilledher.Itwasagoodtwohoursafternighthadfallenbeforewegotanywhereneartherailway,andthelastfewmilesIwasobligedtodobytheguidanceofthestars.Trampingovertheplainonapitch-darknight,withlionsandrhinoallabout,wasbynomeanspleasantworkandIheartilywishedmyselfandmymensafelybackincamp.Indeed,IwasbeginningtothinkthatImusthavelostmybearingsandwasgettinganxiousaboutit,whentomyreliefIheardarifleshotabouthalfamileaheadofus.IguessedatoncethatitwasfiredbymygoodfriendSpoonerinordertoguideme,soIgaveareply

signal;andongettingtothetopofthenextrise,Isawtheplaininfrontofmealltwinklingwithlights.WhenhefoundthatIhadnotreturnedbynightfall,Spoonerhadbecomenervousaboutme,andfearingthatIhadmetwithsomemishap,hadcomeoutwithanumberoftheworkmenincamptosearchformeinthedirectionIhadtakenintheafternoon.Hewasdelightedtofindmesafeandsoundandwithalion'sskinasatrophy,whileIwasequallygladtohavehisescortandcompanybacktocamp,whichwasstilloveramileaway.

Whenwehadsettleddowncomfortablytodinnerthatnight,Ifired



badlyneededincamp;besides,theyofferedmosttemptingshots,fortheystoodstock-stillgazingatus,strucknodoubtbythenovelappearanceofourconveyance.Nextwecameuponaherdofwildebeeste,andhereweallowedBhoota,whowasawaryshikariandanoldservantofSpooner's,tostalkasolitarybull.Hewashighlypleasedatthisfavour,anddidthejobadmirably.

AtlastwereachedthespotwhereIhadseenthetwolionsonthepreviousday--aslighthollow,coveredwithlonggrass;buttherewasnownotraceofthemtobediscovered,sowemovedfurtheronandhadanothergoodbeatround.Aftersomelittletimetheexcitementbeganbyourspyingtheblack-tippedearsofalionessprojectingabovethegrass,andthenextmomentaveryfinelionarosefrombesideherandgaveusafullviewofhisgrandheadandmane.Afterstaringfixedlyatusinaninquiringsortofwayasweslowlyadvanceduponthem,theybothturnedandslowlytrottedoff,thelionstoppingeverynowandagaintogazeroundinourdirection.Veryimposingandmajestichelooked,too,ashethusturnedhisgreatshaggyheaddefiantlytowardsus,andSpoonerhadtoadmitthatitwasthefinestsighthehadeverseen.Forawhilewefollowedthemonfoot;butfindingatlengththattheyweregettingawayfromusandwouldsoonbelosttosightoverabitofrisingground,wejumpedquicklyintothetongaandgallopedroundthebaseoftheknollsoastocutofftheirretreat,theexcitementoftheroughandbumpyridebeingintensifiedahundred-fold

bytheprobabilityofourdrivingslapintothepaironroundingtherise.Ongettingtotheotherside,however,theywerenowheretobeseen,sowedroveonashardaswecouldtothetop,whencewecaughtsightofthemaboutfourhundredyardsaway.Asthereseemedtobenoprospectofgettingnearerwedecidedtoopenfireatthisrange,andatthethirdshotthelionesstumbledovertomy.303.AtfirstIthoughtIhaddoneforher,asforafewminutesshelayonthegroundkickingandstruggling;butintheend,althoughevidentlybadlyhit,sherosetoherfeetandfollowedthelion,whohadescapeduninjured,intosomelonggrassfromwhichwecouldnothopetodislodgethem.

Asitwasnowlateintheafternoon,andasthereseemednopossibilityofinducingthelionstoleavethethicketinwhichtheyhadconcealed

themselves,weturnedbacktowardscamp,intendingtocomeoutagainthenextdaytotrackthewoundedlioness.Iwasnowriding"Blazeaway"andwastrottingalonginadvanceofthetonga,whensuddenlyheshiedbadlyatahyena,whichsprangupoutofthegrassalmostfrombeneathhisfeetandquicklyscamperedoff.Ipulledupforamomentandsatwatchingthehyena'sungainlybounds,wonderingwhetherhewereworthashot.SuddenlyIfelt"Blazeaway"tremblingviolentlybeneathme,andonlookingovermyleftshouldertodiscoverthereason,Iwasstartledtoseetwofinelionsnotmorethanahundredyardsaway,evidentlythepairwhichIhadseenthedaybeforeandwhichwehadreallycomeinsearchof.Theylookedasiftheymeanttodisputeourpassage,fortheycameslowlytowardsmeforabouttenyardsorsoandthenlaydown,watchingmesteadilyallthetime.IcalledouttoSpooner,"Here

arethelionsItoldyouabout,"andhewhippeduptheponiesandinamomentortwowasbesidemewiththetonga.

BythistimeIhadseizedmy.303anddismounted,soweatoncecommencedacautiousadvanceonthecrouchinglions,thearrangementbeingthatSpoonerwastotaketheright-handoneandItheother.Wehadgottowithinsixtyyards'rangewithoutincidentandwerejustabouttositdowncomfortablyto"pot"them,whentheysuddenlysurprisedusbyturningandboltingoff.Imanaged,however,toputabulletintotheoneIhadmarkedjustashecrestedabank,andhe



lookedverygrandasherearedupagainsttheskyandclawedtheaironfeelingthelead.Forasecondortwohegavemetheimpressionthathewasabouttocharge;butluckilyhechangedhismindandfollowedhiscompanion,whohadsofarescapedscotfree.Iimmediatelymounted"Blazeaway"andgallopedoffinhotpursuit,andafterabouthalfamileofverystiffgoinggotupwiththemoncemore.Findingnowthattheycouldnotgetaway,theyhalted;cametobayandthenchargeddownuponme,thewoundedlionleading.Ihadleftmyriflebehind,soallIcoulddowastoturnandflyasfastas"Blazeaway"couldgo,prayinginwardlythewhilethathewouldnotputhisfootintoahole.Whenthelionssawthattheywereunabletoovertakeme,theygaveupthechaseandlaydownagain,thewoundedonebeingabouttwohundredyardsinfrontoftheother.AtonceIpulleduptoo,andthenwentbackalittleway,keepingacarefuleyeuponthem;andIcontinuedthesetacticsofridingupanddownatarespectfuldistanceuntilSpoonercameupwiththerifles,whenwerenewedtheattack.

AsafirstmeasureIthoughtitadvisabletodisabletheunhurtlionifpossible,and,stillusingthe.303,Igothimwiththesecondshotatarangeofaboutthreehundredyards.Heseemedbadlyhit,forhesprangintotheairandapparentlyfellheavily.Ithenexchangedmy.303forSpooner'sspare12-borerifle,andweturnedourattentiontothenearerlion,whoallthistimehadbeenlyingperfectlystill,watchingourmovementsclosely,andevidentlyjustwaitingtobedown

uponusthemomentwecamewithinchargingdistance.Hewasnevergiventhisopportunity,however,forwedidnotapproachnearerthanninetyyards,whenSpoonersatdowncomfortablyandknockedhimoverquitedeadwithoneshotfromhis.577,thebulletenteringtheleftshoulderobliquelyandpassingthroughtheheart.

Itwasnowdusk,andtherewasnotimetobelostifwemeanttobagthesecondlionaswell.Wethereforeresumedourcautiousadvance,movingtotheright,aswewent,soastogetbehinduswhatlighttherewasremaining.Thelionofcoursetwistedroundinthegrassinsuchawayasalwaystokeepfacingus,andlookedveryferocious,sothatIwasconvincedthatunlesshewereentirelydisabledbythefirstshothewouldbedownonuslikeawhirlwind.Allthesame,Ifelt

confidentthat,eveninthisevent,oneofuswouldsucceedinstoppinghimbeforehecoulddoanydamage;butinthisIwasunfortunatelytobeprovedmistaken.

Eventuallywemanagedtogetwithineightyyardsoftheenragedanimal,IbeingaboutfiveyardstotheleftfrontofSpooner,whowasfollowedbyBhootaataboutthesamedistancetohisrightrear.Bythistimethelionwasbesidehimselfwithfury,growlingsavagelyandraisingquiteacloudofdustbylashinghistailagainsttheground.Itwasclearlyhightimethatwedidsomething,soaskingSpoonertofire,droppedononekneeandwaited.NorwasIkeptlonginsuspense,forthemomentSpooner'sshotrangout,upjumpedthelionandchargeddowninabee-lineforme,cominginlong,lowboundsatgreatspeed.I

firedtherightbarrelataboutfiftyyards,butapparentlymissed;theleftatabouthalfthatrange,stillwithoutstoppingeffect.Iknewthenthattherewasnotimereload,soremainedkneeling,expectinghimtobeonmethenextmoment.Suddenly,justashewaswithinaboundofme,hemadeaquickturn,tomyright."Goodheavens,"Ithought,"heisgoingforSpooner."Iwaswronginthis,however,forlikeaflashhepassedSpooneralso,andwithalasttremendousboundseizedBhootabythelegandrolledoverandoverwithhimforsomeyardsintheimpetusoftherush.Finallyhestoodoverhimandtriedtoseizehimbythethroat,whichthebravefellowpreventedbycourageously



stuffinghisleftarmrightintothegreatjaws.PoorBhoota!Bymovingatthecriticalmoment,hehaddivertedthelion'sattentionfrommeandhaddrawnthewholefuryofthechargeontohimself.

Allthis,ofcourse,happenedinonlyasecondortwo.Intheshortinstantthatintervened,IfeltacartridgethrustintomyhandbySpooner'spluckyservant,ImamDin,whohadcarriedthe12-borealldayandwhohadstucktomegallantlythroughoutthecharge;andshovingitin,IrushedasquicklyasIcouldtoBhoota'srescue.Meanwhile,SpoonerhadgottherebeforemeandwhenIcameupactuallyhadhislefthandonthelion'sflank,inavainattempttopushhimoffBhoota'sprostratebodyandsogetattheheavyriflewhichthepoorfellowstillstoutlyclutched.Thelion,however,wassobusilyengagedmaulingBhoota'sarmthathepaidnottheslightestattentiontoSpooner'sefforts.Unfortunately,ashewasfacingstraightinmydirection,Ihadtomoveupinfullviewofhim,andthemomentIreachedhishead,hestoppedchewingthearm,thoughstillholdingitinhismouth,andthrewhimselfbackonhishaunches,preparingforaspring,atthesametimecurlingbackhislipsandexposinghislongtusksinasavagesnarl.IknewthenthatIhadnotamomenttospare,soIthrewtherifleuptomyshoulderandpulledthetrigger.Imaginemyutterdespairandhorrorwhenitdidnotgooff!"Misfireagain,"Ithought,andmyheartalmoststoppedbeating.Astookastepbackwards,Ifeltitwasallovernoforhewouldnevergivemetimetoextract

thecartridgeandloadagain.StillItookanotherstepbackwards,keepingmyeyesfixedonthelion's,whichwereblazingwithrage;andinthemiddleofmythirdstep,justasthebrutewasgatheringhimselfforhisspring,itsuddenlystruckmethatinmyhasteandexcitement,IhadforgottenthatIwasusingaborrowedrifleandhadnotpulledbackthehammer(myownwashammerless).Todothisandputabulletthroughthelion'sbrainwasthentheworkofamoment;andhefelldeadinstantlyrightonthetopofBhoota.

WedidnotloseamomentinrollinghisgreatcarcaseoffBhoota'sbodyandquicklyforcedopeningthejawssoastodisengagethemangledarmwhichstillremainedinhismouth.Bythistimethepoorshikariwasinafaintingcondition,andweflewtothetongaforthebrandyflask

whichwehadsoprovidentiallybroughtwithus.Onmakingaroughexaminationofthewoundedman,wefoundthathisleftarmandrightlegwerebothfrightfullymauled,thelatterbeingbrokenaswell.Hewasliftedtenderlyintothetonga--howthankfulwenowweretohaveitwithus!--andSpooneratoncesetoffwithhimtocampandthedoctor.

BeforefollowingthemhomeImadeahastyexaminationofthedeadlionandfoundhimtobeaverygoodspecimenineveryway.IwasparticularlysatisfiedtoseethatoneofthetwoshotsIhadfiredashechargeddownuponmehadtakeneffect.Thebullethadenteredbelowtherighteye,andonlyjustmissedthebrain.UnfortunatelyitwasasteelonewhichSpoonerhadunluckilybroughtinhisammunitionbagbymistake;stillonewouldhavethoughtthatashotofthiskind,even

withahardbullet,wouldatleasthavecheckedthelionforthemoment.Asamatteroffact,however,itwentcleanthroughhimwithouthavingtheslighteststoppingeffect.Mylastbullet,whichwasofsoftlead,hadenteredclosetotherighteyeandembeddeditselfinthebrain.Bythistimeithadgrownalmostdark,soIleftthetwodeadlionswheretheylayandrodeforcamp,whichIwasluckyenoughtoreachwithoutfurtheradventureormishap.Imaymentionherethatearlynextmorningtwootherlionswerefounddevouringtheonewehadfirstshot;buttheyhadnothadtimetodomuchdamage,andthehead,whichIhavehadmounted,makesaveryfinetrophyindeed.Thelion



thatmauledBhootawasuntouched.

OnmyarrivalincampIfoundthateverythingthatwaspossiblewasbeingdoneforpoorBhootabyDr.McCulloch,thesamewhohadtravelledupwithmetoTsavoandshottheostrichfromthetrainonmyfirstarrivalinthecountry,andwhowasluckilyonthespot.Hiswoundshadbeenskilfullydressed,thebrokenlegputinsplints,andundertheinfluenceofasoothingdraughtthepoorfellowwassoonsleepingpeacefully.Atfirstwehadgreathopeofsavingbothlifeandlimb,andcertainlyforsomedaysheseemedtobegettingonaswellascouldbeexpected.Thewounds,however,wereverybadones,especiallythoseonthelegwherethelongtuskshadmetthroughandthroughtheflesh,leavingoveradozendeeptoothmarks;thearm,thoughdreadfullymauled,soonhealed.Itwaswonderfultonoticehowcheerfullytheoldshikari,boreitall,andapleasuretolistentohistaleofhowhewouldhavehisrevengeonthewholetribeoflionsassoonashewasabletogetaboutagain.Butalas,hisshikarwasover.Theleggotrapidlyworse,andmortificationsettingin,ithadtobeamputatedhalfwayupthethigh.

Dr.WinstonWatersperformedtheoperationmostskilfully,andcuriouslyenoughtheoperatingtablewascanopiedwiththeskinofthelionwhichhadbeenresponsiblefortheinjury.Bhootamadeagoodrecoveryfromtheoperation,butseemedtoloseheartwhenhefound

thathehadonlyonelegleft,asaccordingtohisideashehadnowbutapoorchanceofbeingallowedtoenterHeaven.Wedidallthatwaspossibleforhim,andSpoonerespeciallycouldnothavelookedafterabrothermoretenderly;buttoourgreatsorrowhesankgradually,anddiedonJuly19.

ThehuntwhichhadsuchadisastroussequelprovedtobethelastoccasiononwhichImetalionintheopen,aswegotoutofthehuntingcountryshortlyafterwardsandfortherestofmystayinEastAfricaIhadtoomuchworktodotobeabletogoanydistanceinsearchofbiggame.

CHAPTERXXV

AMAN-EATERINARAILWAYCARRIAGE

TowardstheendofmystayinBritishEastAfrica,IdinedoneeveningwithMr.Ryall,theSuperintendentofthePolice,inhisinspectioncarriageontherailway.PoorRyall!Ilittlethoughtthenwhataterriblefatewastoovertakehimonlyafewmonthslaterinthatverycarriageinwhichwedined.

Aman-eatinglionhadtakenuphisquartersatalittleroadsidestationcalledKimaa,andhaddevelopedanextraordinarytasteforthemembersoftherailwaystaff.Hewasamostdaringbrute,quiteindifferentastowhetherhecarriedoffthestation-master,thesignalman,orthepointsman;andonenight,inhiseffortstoobtainameal,heactuallyclimbedupontotheroofofthestationbuildingsandtriedtotearoffthecorrugated-ironsheets.AtthistheterrifiedbabooinchargeofthetelegraphinstrumentbelowsentthefollowinglaconicmessagetotheTrafficManager:"Lionfightingwithstation.Sendurgentsuccour."Fortunatelyhewasnotvictoriousinhis"fight



withthestation";buthetriedsohardtogetinthathecuthisfeetbadlyontheironsheeting,leavinglargeblood-stainsontheroof.Anothernight,however,hesucceededincarryingoffthenativedriverofthepumping-engine,andsoonafterwardsaddedseveralothervictimstohislist.Ononeoccasionanengine-driverarrangedtositupallnightinalargeironwater-tankinthehopeofgettingashotathim,andhadaloop-holecutinthesideofthetankfromwhichtofire.Butassooftenhappens,thehunterbecamethehunted;thelionturnedupinthemiddleofthenight,overthrewthetankandactuallytriedtodragthedriveroutthroughthenarrowcircularholeinthetopthroughwhichhehadsqueezedin.Fortunatelythetankwasjusttoodeepforthebrutetobeabletoreachthemanatthebottom;butthelatterwasnaturallyhalfparalysedwithfearandhadtocrouchsolowdownastobeunabletotakeanythinglikeproperaim.Hefired,however,andsucceededinfrighteningthelionawayforthetimebeing.

ItwasinavainattempttodestroythispestthatpoorRyallmethistragicanduntimelyend.OnJune6,1900,hewastravellingupinhisinspectioncarriagefromMakindutoNairobi,accompaniedbytwofriends,Mr.HuebnerandMr.Parenti.WhentheyreachedKimaa,whichisabouttwohundredandfiftymilesfromMombasa,theyweretoldthattheman-eaterhadbeenseenclosetothestationonlyashorttimebeforetheirtrainarrived,sotheyatoncemadeuptheirmindstoremainthereforthenightandendeavourtoshoothim.Ryall'scarriagewas

accordinglydetachedfromthetrainandshuntedintoasidingclosetothestation,where,owingtotheunfinishedstateoftheline,itdidnotstandperfectlylevel,buthadapronouncedlisttooneside.Intheafternoonthethreefriendswentouttolookforthelion,but,findingnotracesofhimwhatever,theyreturnedtothecarriagefordinner.Afterwardstheyallsatuponguardforsometime;buttheonlynoticeablethingtheysawwaswhattheytooktobetwoverybrightandsteadyglow-worms.After-eventsprovedthatthesecouldhavebeennothingelsethantheeyesoftheman-eatersteadilywatchingthemallthetimeandstudyingtheireverymovement.Thehournowgrowinglate,andtherebeingapparentlynosignofthelion,Ryallpersuadedhistwofriendstoliedown,whilehekeptthefirstwatch.Huebneroccupiedthehighberthoverthetableontheonesideofthecarriage,theonly

otherberthbeingontheoppositesideofthecompartmentandlowerdown.ThisRyallofferedtoParenti,whodeclinedit,sayingthathewouldbequitecomfortableonthefloorandheaccordinglylaydowntosleep,withhisfeettowardstheslidingdoorwhichgaveadmissionthecarriage.

ItissupposedthatRyall,afterwatchingforsomeconsiderabletime,musthavecometotheconclusionthatthelionwasnotgoingtomakeitsappearancethatnight,forhelaydownonthelowerberthanddozedoff.Nosoonerhadhedoneso,doubtless,thanthecunningman-eaterbegancautiouslytostalkthethreesleepers.Inordertoreachthelittleplatformattheendofthecarriage,hehadtomounttwoveryhighstepsfromtherailwayline,butthesehemanagedtonegotiate

successfullyandinsilence.Thedoorfromthisplatformintothecarriagewasaslidingoneonwheels,whichranveryeasilyonabrassrunner;andasitwasprobablynotquiteshut,oratanyratenotsecuredinanyway,itwasaneasymatterfortheliontothrustinapawandshoveitopen.Butowingtothetiltofthecarriageandtohisgreatextraweightontheoneside,thedoorslidtoandsnappedintothelockthemomenthegothisbodyrightin,thusleavinghimshutupwiththethreesleepingmeinthecompartment.

HesprangatonceatRyall,butinordertoreachhimhadactuallyto



planthisfeetonParenti,who,itwillberemembered,wassleepingonthefloor.AtthismomentHuebnerwassuddenlyawakenedbyaloudcry,andonlookingdownfromhisberthwashorrifiedtoseeanenormouslionstandingwithhishindfeetonParenti'sbody,whilehisforepawsrestedonpoorRyall.Smallwonderthathewaspanic-strickenatthesight.Therewasonlyonepossiblewayofescape,andthatwasthroughthesecondslidingdoorcommunicatingwiththeservants'quarters,whichwasoppositetothatbywhichthelionhadentered.ButinordertoreachthisdoorHuebnerhadliterallytojumpontotheman-eater'sback,foritsgreatbulkfilledupallthespacebeneathhisberth.Itsoundsscarcelycredible,butitappearsthatintheexcitementandhorrorofthemomentheactuallydidthis,andfortunatelythelionwastoobusilyengagedwithhisvictimtopayanyattentiontohim.Sohemanagedtoreachthedoorinsafety;butthere,tohisdismay,hefoundthatitwasheldfastontheothersidebytheterrifiedcoolies,whohadbeenarousedbythedisturbancecausedbythelion'sentrance.Inutterdesperationhemadefranticeffortstoopenit,andexertingallhisstrengthatlastmanagedtopullitbacksufficientlyfartoallowhimtosqueezethrough,whenthetremblingcooliesinstantlytieditupagainwiththeirturbans.Amomentafterwardsagreatcrashwasheard,andthewholecarriagelurchedviolentlytooneside;thelionhadbrokenthroughoneofthewindows,carryingoffpoorRyallwithhim.Beingnowreleased,Parentilostnotimeinjumpingthroughthewindowontheoppositesideofthecarriage,andfledforrefugetooneofthe

stationbuildings;hisescapewaslittleshortofmiraculous,asthelionhadbeenactuallystandingonhimashelayonthefloor.Thecarriageitselfwasbadlyshattered,andthewood-workofthewindowhadbeenbrokentopiecesbythepassageofthelionashesprangthroughwithhisvictiminhismouth.

AllthatcanbehopedisthatpoorRyall'sdeathwasinstantaneous.Hisremainswerefoundnextmorningaboutaquarterofamileawayinthebush,andweretakentoNairobiforburial.Iamgladtobeabletoaddthatveryshortlyafterwardstheterriblebrutewhowasresponsibleforthisawfultragedywascaughtinaningenioustrapconstructedbyoneoftherailwaystaff.Hewaskeptonviewforseveraldays,andthenshot.

CHAPTERXXVI

WORKATNAIROBI

AlthoughthelionwhichcausedpoorBhoota'sdeathwasthelastImanagedtoshootinEastAfrica,Isawseveralothersafterwardswhiletravellingupanddownthelineatdifferenttimesonconstructionwork.Inparticular,Irememberoneverycuriousincidentwhich

happenedearlyonthemorningofJune2,whenIwastravellingtowardsNairobi,accompaniedbyDr.McCulloch.TheDoctorwasgoinghomeonleaveinthecourseofafewdays,andwasbemoaningtomehisbadluckinneverhavingshotorevenseenalionallthetimehehadbeeninthecountry.Wewerestandingontheengineatthetime,facingeachother,hewithhisbacktothenorth.

"MydearMac,"Isaid,"itisbecauseyoudon'tlookoutforthem."

"Rubbish,"heretorted;"IdonothingelsewhenIamouthunting."



"Well,"Ireplied,"areyoureallyveryanxioustoshootonebeforeyougohome?"

"Iwouldrathergetalionthananythingelseintheworld,"wastheemphaticreply.

"Verygood,then.Sultan,"Icalledtothedriver,"stoptheengine."

"Now,Mac,"Icontinued,asthetrainwasquicklybroughttoastandstill,"here'sachanceforyou.Justjumpoffandbagthosetwooverthere."

Heturnedroundinblankastonishmentandcouldhardlybelievehiseyeswhenhesawtwofinelionsonlyabouttwohundredyardsoff,busilyengagedindevouringawildebeestewhichtheyhadevidentlyjustkilled.IhadspottedthemalmostassoonasMachadbeguntotalkofhisbadluck,andhadonlywaitedtotellhimuntilwegotnearer,soastogivehimagreatersurprise.Hewasofftheengineinasecondandmadedirectlyforthetwobeasts.Justashewasabouttofireoneofthembolted,soIcalledouttohimtoshoottheotherquicklybeforehetoomadegoodhisescape.Thisonewaslookingatusoverhisshoulderwithonepawonthedeadwildebeeste,andwhilehestoodinthisattitudeMacdroppedhimwithabulletthroughtheheart.Needless

tosayhewastremendouslydelightedwithhissuccess,andafterthedeadlionhadbeencarriedtothetrainandproppedupagainstacarriage,Itookaphotographofhimstandingbesidehisfinetrophy.

ThreedaysafterthisincidentrailheadreachedNairobi,andIwasgivenchargeofthenewdivisionoftheline.NairobiwastobetheheadquartersoftheRailwayAdministration,sotherewasanimmenseamountofworktobedoneinconvertinganabsolutelybareplain,threehundredandtwenty-sevenmilesfromthenearestplacewhereevenanailcouldbepurchased,intoabusyrailwaycentre.Roadsandbridgeshadtobeconstructed,housesandwork-shopsbuilt,turntablesandstationquarterserected,awatersupplylaidon,andahundredandoneotherthingsdonewhichgotothemakingofarailwaytownship.Wonderfully

soon,however,thenucleusofthepresenttownbegantotakeshape,andathriving"bazaar"sprangintoexistencewithamushroom-likegrowth.Inthis,however,acaseortwoofplaguebrokeoutbeforeverylong,soIgavethenativesandIndianswhoinhabiteditanhour'snoticetoclearout,andonmyownresponsibilitypromptlyburnedthewholeplacetotheground.ForthissomewhatarbitraryproceedingIwasmildlycalledoverthecoals,asIexpected;butallthesameiteffectuallystampedouttheplague,whichdidnotreappearduringthetimeIwasinthecountry.

WithalittlepersuasionImanagedtoinduceseveralhundredoftheWaKikuyu,inwhosecountrywenowwere,tocomeandworkatNairobi,andveryusefulandcapabletheyprovedthemselvesafteralittletraining.

Theyfrequentlybroughtmeinwordthattheshambas(plantations,gardens)atthebackofthehillonwhichmycampwaspitchedwerebeingdestroyedbyelephants,butunfortunatelyIcouldneversparetimetogooutinquestofthem.Ononeoccasion,however,Ipassedthenewsontomyfriend,Dr.WinstonWaters,withtheresultthathehadamostexcitingadventurewithabigbullelephant.Hesetoutinquestofthedepredator,and,guidedbyafewoftheWaKikuyu,sooncameuponhimhiddenamongsomeshadytrees.Waterswasagreatbelieverinacloseshot,sohestalkeduptowithinafewyardsoftheanimalandthenfiredhis.577,aimingfortheheart.Theelephantrespondedbya



promptanddeterminedcharge,andalthoughWatersquicklylethimhavetheleftbarrelaswell,itprovedofnoeffect;andonhecame,screamingandtrumpetingwithrage.Therewasnothingforit,therefore,buttoflyfordearlife;sodownapathracedWatersforallhewasworth,theelephantgivingvigorouschaseandgainingrapidly.Inafewsecondsmattersbegantolookveryseriousforthesportsman,forthehugemonsterwasalmostonhim;butatthecriticalmomenthesteppedontothefalsecoverofacarefully-concealedgamepitanddisappearedfromviewasifbymagic.Thissuddendescentofhisenemyapparentlyintothebowelsoftheearthsostartledtheelephantthathestoppedshortinhiscareerandmadeoffintothejungle.AsforWaters,hewasluckilynonetheworseforhisfall,asthepitwasneitherstakedatthebottomnorverydeep;hesoonscrambledout,and,followingupthewoundedelephant,succeededinfinishinghimoffwithoutfurthertrouble.

Towardstheendof1899IleftforEngland.AfewdaysbeforeIstartedallmyWaKikuyu"children",astheycalledthemselves,cameinabodyandbeggedtobetakenwithme.Ipicturedtothemthecold,wetclimateofEnglandanditsgreatdistancefromtheirnativeland;buttheyassuredmethatthesewerenothingtothem,astheyonlywishedtocontinuemy"children"andtogowhereverIwent.IcouldhardlyimaginemyselfarrivinginLondonwithabody-guardoffourhundredmoreorlessnakedsavages,butitwasonlywithdifficultythatI

persuadedthemthattheyhadbetterremainintheirowncountry.Theever-faithfulMahina,my"boy"RoshanKhan,myhonestchaukidar,Meeanh,andafewothercoolieswhohadbeenalongtimewithme,accompaniedmetothecoast,wheretheybademeasorrowfulfarewellandleftforIndiathedaybeforeIsailedonmyhomewardjourney.

CHAPTERXXVII

THEFINDINGOFTHENEWELAND

Duringtheearlypartoflastyear(1906)Irevisitedthesceneofmyformerlaboursandadventuresonashootingtrip.UnfortunatelythetrainbywhichItravelledupfromMombasareachedTsavoatmidnight,butallthesameIgotoutandprowledaboutaslongastimewouldpermit,halfwonderingeverymomentiftheghostsofthetwoman-eaterswouldspringatmeoutofthebushes.Iwantedverymuchtospendadayortwointheoldplace,butmycompanionswereanxioustopushonasquicklyaspossibletobetterhunting-grounds.Itookthetrouble,however,towakethemoutoftheirpeacefulslumbersinordertopointouttothem,bythepalemoonlight,thestrengthandbeautyoftheTsavobridge;butIfearthisdelicatelittleattentionwasscarcelyappreciatedasitdeserved.NaturallyIcouldnotexpectthem,or

anyoneelse,toviewthebridgequitefrommypointofview;Ilookedonitasachildofmine,broughtupthroughstressanddangerandtroublesofallkinds,buttheordinarytravellerofcourseknowsnothingofthisanddoubtlessthinksitonlyaverycommonplaceandinsignificantstructureindeed.

WespentafewdaysatNairobi,nowaflourishingtownofsome6,000inhabitants,suppliedwitheverymoderncomfortandluxury,includingawelllaid-outracecourse;andafterashorttriptoLakeVictoriaNyanzaandUganda,wemadeourwaybacktotheEldamaRavine,which



liessometwentymilesnorthofLandianiStationintheprovinceofNaivasha.Herewestartedinearnestonourbiggameexpedition,whichIamgladtosayprovedtobeamostdelightfulandinterestingoneineveryway.Thecountrywaslovely,andtheclimatecoolandbracing.Weallgotafairamountofsport,ourbagincludingrhino,hippo,waterbuck,reedbuck,hartebeeste,wildebeeste,ostrich,impala,oryx,roanantelope,etc.;butforthepresentImustconfinemyselftoashortaccountofhowIwasluckyenoughtoshootaspecimenofanentirelynewraceofeland.

Ourpartyoffive,includingoneladywhorodeandshotequallystraight,lefttheEldamaRavineonJanuary22,andtrekkedoffinaneasterlydirectionacrosstheLaikipiaPlateau.Asthetrailwhichweweretotakewasverylittleknownandalmostimpossibletofollowwithoutaguide,Mr.Foaker,theDistrictOfficerattheRavine,verykindlyprocuredusareliableman--ayoungUashinGishuMasainamedUliagurma.ButashecouldnotspeakawordofSwahili,wehadalsotoengageaninterpreter,anexcellent,cheeryfellowofthesametribenamedLandaalu;andheinhisturnpossessedakinsmanwhoinsistedoncomingtoo,althoughhewasnoearthlyusetous.OurroutetookusthroughtheSolaiSwamp,overtheMultiloandSubuKoLultianranges,andacrossmanyunexpectedriversandstreamlets.OnourfirstmarchInoticedthatUliagurma,ourkirongozi(guide),wassufferingextremely,thoughuncomplainingly,fromearache,soItoldhimtocometomewhen

wegottocampandIwouldseewhatIcoulddoforhim.Strangetosay,mydoctoringprovedmostsuccessful,andUliagurmawassogratefulthathespreadmyfameasa"medicine-man"farandwideamongthenativeswhereverwetrekked.Theconsequencewasthatmen,womenandchildrenineverystateofdiseaseandcrippledomcameandbesiegedourcamps,beggingforsomeofthemagicaldawa(medicine).IusedtodowhatIcould,andonlyhopeIdidnotinjuremanyofthem;butitwasheartrendingtoseesomeofthequitehopelesscasesIwasexpectedtocure.

AfterwehadclimbedtheSubuKoLultianandgotafootingontheplateau,wepitchedourcamponthebanksoftheAngaruariver,wherewefoundabigMasaikraal,theinhabitantsofwhichseemedmuch

astonishedatoursuddenappearanceintheirneighbourhood.Theywereveryfriendly,however,andvisitedourcampinswarmsanhourorsoafterourarrival.RidingmyponyandaccompaniedbyLandaaluasinterpreter,andmygun-bearerJuma,Ireturnedtheircallintheafternoon,whentheelmorani(warriors)gaveformyentertainmentanexhibitionofthegymnasticexerciseswhichtheypractiseregularlyinordermoreparticularlytostrengthentheirlegsandrenderthemsupple.AftertheperformanceIaskediftherewasanygameaboutandwastoldthatsomemightbefoundafewmilestothenorthofthekraal;soIsetoutatoncewithLandaaluandJumatotrymyluck.Itwasaperfectafternoon,andnosoonerhadIclearedthebeltofscrubwhichgrewroundthekraal,whenbytheaidofmyglassesIsawaherdofzebraandothergameawayinthedistance,feedingpeacefullyonthe

rollingprairie.Imademywaysteadilytowardsthem,andnoticedasIwentthatacoupleofelandweregraduallydrawingawayfromtherestoftheherd.Imarkedtheseformyown,andcarefullynotingthedirectiontheyweretaking,Idismountedandmadeadetourroundarisesoastolieinwaitforthemandcutthemoff.Myplansucceededadmirably,forthetwofineanimalscontinuedtocomestraighttowardsmewithoutsuspicion,feedingquietlybytheway.Whentheygottowithineightyyardsorso,Ipickedoutthebiggerheadandwasonlywaitingforhimtomakeaslightturnbeforepullingthetrigger,whenbangwenttheheavyrifleofoneofmycompanionsabouthalfamile



away.Inaninstantthetwoelandhadboundedoff,andIdecidednottoriskashot,inthehopethattheywouldsoonsettledownagainandgivemeanotherchance.

Mentallyblessingmyfriendforfiringatthisuntimelymoment,Iwatchedthemmakeforabeltofwoodaboutamilefurtheron,hopingagainsthopethattheywouldremainonthenearsideofit.Nosuchluck,however,fortheyplungedintoitandwerequicklyswallowedupoutofmysight.Runningtomypony,whichLandaaluhaddexterouslybroughtup,Igallopedinthedirectionofthespotinthetreeswheretheelandhaddisappeared;butimaginemyvexationwhenIfoundthatIhadtopullupsharpontheedgeofanasty-lookingswamp,whichatfirstsightappearedtooboggyandtreacheroustoattempttocross.Irodeupanddownitwithoutbeingabletofindanythinglikeareallysafecrossingplace,soindesperationIatlastdeterminedtotaketheriskofcrossingitalonganoldrhinopathwherethereedswereflatteneddown.Myponyflounderedbravelythrough,andeventuallysucceededingettingsafelytotheotherside.Ithenmademywaycautiouslythroughthebeltoftrees,andwasrelievedtofindthatitwasonlyhalfamileorsobroad.IdismountedasInearedthefurtherside,and,tyingmyponytoatree,creptquietlyforward,expectingtoseetheelandnotfaroff;buttomydisappointmenttherewasnotraceofgameofanykindonthewholewidestretchofcountrythatmetmyview.Ithereforetriedanotherdirection,and,takingahalfturnto

myleft,mademywaycarefullythroughsomeopengladestothetopofalittlerisenotfaroff.

Thesightthatnowmetmyeyesfairlytookmybreathaway;forthere,notthreehundredyardsoffandstalkingplacidlyalongataslowwalk,wasaherdoffullyahundredelandofallagesandsizes.Therearofthecolumnwasbroughtupbyamagnificentoldbull,andmyheartjumpedforjoyasIwatchedhimfromtheshelterofthebushesbehindwhichIlayconcealed.Thenextthingtobedonewastodecideonaplanofattack,andthishadtobethoughtofwithoutlossoftime,forthewindwasblowingfrommealmostinthedirectionoftheeland,whowouldcertainlyscentmeverysoonifIdidnotgetaway.Quicklynotingthedirectioninwhichtheyweremoving,Isawthatifallwent

welltheyoughttopassclosetoalittlehillockaboutamileorsooff;andifIwereverysharpaboutit,IthoughtIcouldmakeacircuitthroughthewoodandbeonthisrise,inagoodpositionforbothwindandcover,beforetheherdcouldreachit.AccordinglyIcreptawaywiththeobjectoffindingmymount,buttomydelight--justbehindmeandwellhidden--stoodtheundefeatedLandaalu,whoinsomemysteriouswayhadfollowedmeup,foundtheponywhereIhadleftittiedtoatree,andbroughtitontome.Withabrightgrinonhisfacehethrustthereinsintomyhand,andIwasupandgallopingoffinaninstant.

IsoondiscoveredthatIhadfurthertogothanIexpected,forIwasforcedtomakeabigdetourinordertokeepoutofsightoftheherd;

butonhaltingonceortwiceandpeepingthroughthetreesIsawthatallwasgoingwellandthattheywerestillcalmlymovingonintherightdirection.Thelastquarterofamilehadtobenegotiatedintheopen,butIfoundthatbylyingflatdownonmypony'sbackIwascompletelyhiddenfromtheadvancingherdbyaninterveningswellintheground.InthismannerImanagedtogetunobservedtotheleeofmyhillock,whereIdismounted,threwthereinsoverastump,andcrawledstealthilybutasquicklyasIcouldtothetop.IwasingreatdoubtastowhetherIshouldbeintimeornot,butonpeering,hatless,overthecrest,Iwasoverjoyedtofindthewholeherdjustbelowme.Oneof



theeland,nottwentyyardsoff,sawmeatonce,andstoodstilltogazeatmeinastonishment.Itwasafemale,however,soItooknonoticeofher,butlookedroundtoseeifmygreatbullwereanywherenear.Yes,therehewas;hehadpassedthespotwhereIlay,butwasnotmorethanfortyyardsoff,movinginthesameleisurelyfashionaswhenIfirstsawhim.Aninstantlater,henoticedthegeneralalarmcausedbymyappearance,andstoppedandturnedhalfroundtoseewhatwasthematter.Thisgavememyopportunity,soIfired,aimingbehindtheshoulder.ThewayinwhichhejumpedandkickedonfeelingtheleadtoldmeIhadhithimhard,andIgottwomorebulletsintohimfromthemagazineofmy.303beforehemanagedtogaintheshelterofaneighbouringthicketandwaslosttosight.Inthemeantimethewholeherdhadthunderedoffatfullgallop,disappearinginafewminutesinacloudofdust.

Iwasconfidentthattherewouldbelittledifficultyinfindingthewoundedeland,andonLandaalucomingup--which,bytheway,hedidalmostimmediately,forhewasawonderfulgoer--westartedtomakearoughsearchthroughthethicket.Owingtothegrowingdarkness,however,wemetwithnosuccess,soIdecidedtoreturntocamp,whichwasmanymilesaway,andtoresumethequestatdaybreakthefollowingmorning.ItturnedoutthatwewereevenfurtherfromhomethanIthought,andblacknightcameuponusbeforewehadcoveredaquarterofthedistance.FortunatelytheinvaluableLandaaluhaddiscovereda

goodcrossingovertheswamp,sowewereabletopressonatagoodpacewithoutlosinganytimeinovercomingtheobstacle.Afteranhourorsoofhardtravelling,weweredelightedtoseearocketgoup,firedbymyfriendstoguideusonourway.Suchasightiswonderfullycheeringwhenoneisfarawayfromcamp,trudgingalongintheinkydarknessandnonetoocertainofone'sdirection;andarocketequipmentshouldinvariablybecarriedbythetravellerinthewilds.Severalmoreweresentupbeforewegotanywherenearcamp,andIremarkedtoLandaaluthatwemusthavegoneaverylongwayaftertheeland."Longway,"hereplied;"why,Master,wehavebeentoBaringo!"Thislakeasamatteroffactwasfullyfiftymilesaway.WhenfinallywearrivedIfiredtheardourofmycompanionsbyrelatingtheadventuresoftheafternoonandtellingthemofthewonderfulherdI

hadseen;anditwasatonceagreedthatweshouldstaywherewewereforadayortwointhehopeofgoodsportbeingobtained.

AssoonasitwasdaylightthenextmorningIsentoutapartyofourporterswithfullinstructionswheretofindmyeland,whichIwassuremustbelyingsomewhereinthethicketclosetothehillfromwhereIhadshothim;andveryshortlyafterwardsweourselvesmadeastart.Afteracoupleofhours'travellingwewereluckyenoughtocatchsightofaportionoftheherdofeland,whenwedismountedandstalkedthemcarefullythroughthelonggrass.Allofasuddenonepoppedupitsheadunexpectedlyaboutfiftyyardsaway.Oneofmycompanionsimmediatelylevelledhisrifleatit,butfromwhereIwasIcouldseebetterthanhethattheheadwasapoorone,andsocalledouttohim

nottofire.Thewarningcametoolate,however,foratthatmomenthepulledthetrigger.Itwasratheradifficultshot,too,asthebodyoftheanimalcouldnotbeseenverywellowingtotheheightofthegrass;still,astheheadinstantlydisappearedwehopedforthebestandranuptotheplace,butnotraceoftheelandcouldbefound.Accordinglywepushedonagainandafteralittlerestedforashorttimeundertheshadeofsometrees.Wehadgoneaboutthreemilesafterresumingoursearchforgame,whenoneoftheportersrememberedthathehadleftthewater-bottlehewascarryingatthetreeswherewehadhalted,sohewassentbackforitwithstrictinjunctionstomake



hasteandtorejoinusasquicklyaspossible.Curiouslyenough,thistriflingincidentprovedquiteprovidential;fortheporter(whosenamewasSabaki),afterrecoveringthewater-bottle,foundhimselfunabletotraceusthroughthejungleandaccordinglystruckhomeforcamp.OnhiswaybackheactuallystumbledoverthedeadbodyoftheelandwhichIhadshotthepreviousdayandwhichthesearchpartyIhadsentoutinthemorninghadfailedtofind.Theywerestilllookingforitcloseathand,however,soSabakihailedthemandtheyatoncesettoworktoskinandcutuptheanimal,andthencarriedittothecamp.

Meanwhile,ofcourse,weknewnothingofallthis,andcontinuedourhuntforgame.Shortlyafternoonwehadalightlunch,andwhilewewereeatingitourguides,UliagurmaandLandaalu,discoveredabees'nestinafallentreeandproceededtotrytoextractthehoney,ofwhichtheMasaiareveryfond.Thisinterferencewasnaturallystronglyresentedbythebees,andsoonthesemi-nakedyouthsranflyingpastuswiththeangryswarminfullpursuit.IlaughedheartilyatLandaalu,andchaffedhimunmercifullyforallowinghimself,aMasai,tobeputtoflightbyafewbees.Thisthejollyfellowtookverygood-humouredly,sayingthatifheonlyhadajacketlikeminehewouldsoongoandgetthehoney.Igavehimmyjacketatonce,andamostcomicalfigurehecutinit,asitwasveryshortandhehadpracticallynothingelseon.Whenthenestwasproperlyexamined,however,itwasfoundthatthebeeshadeatenallthehoney;soafter

takingsomephotographsofourguidesatworkamongthebeesweallproceededhomewards,reachingcampaboutdusk,withnothingtoshowforourlongday'shunt.

WeweremetbySabaki,whowasinagreatstateofexcitement,andwhostartedtoexplaininverybadSwahilihowhehadcomeacrossthedeadeland.Misunderstandingwhathesaid,ItoldmyfriendthatSabakihadfoundtheelandwhichhehadshotinthemorning,andrejoicedheartilywithhimatthispieceofgoodluck.Onviewingthehead,however,wecouldnotunderstandit,asitwasverymuchbiggerthantheonehehadfiredat;anditwasnottilllaterintheeveningwhenIvisitedLandaalu,curledupatthecampfire,thatthemysterywasexplained.HegreetedmebysayingthatafterallwehadnotgonetoBaringofor

nothingthepreviousday,andonmyaskinghimwhathemeanthetoldmeaboutthefindingoftheeland,taking,itforgrantedthatIknewitwasmine.IquicklycalledupSabakiandaftersometroublegotfromhimthewholestoryofhowhehadfoundthebodyclosetomylittlehillockandnearwheremymenweresearchingforit.SoIbrokethetruthgentlytomyfriend,whoatonceacknowledgedmyclaimandcongratulatedmeonmygoodfortune.

HowgreatthisgoodfortunewasIdidnotknowtilllongafter;buteventhen,whenIcametoexaminetheheadandskincarefully,IfoundthattheybothdifferedmateriallyfromthoseofanyotherelandthatIhadeverseen.Foronething,therewasnolongtuftofhairontheforehead,whilefromthelowercornerofeacheyerananincomplete

whitestripesimilarto,thoughsmallerthan,thosefoundinthegianteland.Thesidesoftheforeheadwereofareddishcolour,andonthelowerpartofthefacetherewasamuchlargerbrownpatchthanistobeseenontheordinaryeland.Thestripingonthebodywasveryslight,thechiefmarkingsbeingthreelinesacrossthewithers.OnmyreturntoEnglandinApril.IsenttheheadtoRowlandWard'stobesetup,andwhilethereitwasseenbyMr.R.Lydekker,F.R.S.,oftheBritishMuseum,thewell-knownnaturalistandspecialistinbiggame,whowrotetotellmethatitpossessedgreatzoologicalinterest,asshowingtheexistenceofahithertounknownraceofeland.Mr.Lydekker



alsocontributedthefollowingnoticedescribingtheanimaltoTheFieldofSeptember29,1906:

"Considerableinterestattachestotheheadofaneland,killedbyColonelJ.H.PattersoninPortuguese[1]EastAfrica,andsetupbyMr.RowlandWard,onaccountofcertainpeculiaritiesincolouringandmarkings,whichindicateatransitionfromtheordinarySouthAfricananimalinthedirectionofthegianteland(Taurotragusderbianus)oftheBahr-el-GhazaldistrictandWestAfrica.Inthestripedvariety(Taurotragusoryxlivingstonianus)oftheordinarySouthAfricaneland,thewholemiddlelineofthefaceoftheadultbullisuniformlydark,orevenblackish-brown,withatuftoflongbushyhairontheforehead,andnowhitestripefromthelowerangleoftheeye.Ontheotherhand,intheSudaniformofthegianteland(T.derbianusgigas),asrepresentedbyabullfiguredbyMr.RothschildinNovitatesZoologicaefor1905,theupperpartofthefacehasthehairrufousandshorterthanintheordinaryeland,whilefromthelowerangleofeacheyeawhitestriperunsinwardsanddownwards,recallingthewhitechevronofthekudu,althoughthetwostripesdonotmeetinthemiddleline.

"InColonelPatterson'seland(whichmaywellbedesignatedT.oryxpattersonianus)thereisanincompletewhitechevronsimilarto,althoughrathersmallerthan,theonefoundinthegianteland,while

onlyanarrowstripeinthemiddlelineoftheface,aboveandbetweentheeyes,isdark-brown,thesidesoftheforeheadbeingrufous.Onthelowerpartofthefacethereisalargerdark-brownareathanintheordinaryeland,althoughthereisarufousfawn-colouredpatchoneachsideabovethenostril.InboththelatterrespectsColonelPatterson'sspecimenrecallsthegianteland,althoughitapparentlylacksthedarkwhite-borderedbandonthesideoftheneck,characteristicofthelatter.IfalltheelandsfromthatpartofPortugueseEastAfricawhereColonelPatterson'sspecimenwasobtainedturnouttobeofthesametype,therewillbeastrongpresumptionthatthetrueandthegianteland,likethevariouslocalformsofgiraffeandbonte-quagga,areonlyracesofoneandthesamespecies.While,evenifthepresentspecimenbeonlya'sport'(whichIconsiderunlikely),itwillserve

toshowthatthesouthernandnorthernelandsaremorenearlyrelatedthanhashithertobeensupposed."

1Inerrorfor"British."

Asmyelandthusprovedtobeofsomeconsiderablescientificvalue,andastheauthoritiesoftheBritishMuseumexpressedadesiretopossessitshead,IgladlypresentedittotheTrustees,sothatallsportsmenandnaturalistsmighthaveanopportunityofseeingitattheNaturalHistoryMuseumatSouthKensington,whereitnowis.

APPENDIX

I.

SPORTSMENwhothinkofvisitingBritishEastAfricaonashootingtripmaybegladofafewgeneralhintsonpointsofinterestandimportance.

Thebattery,tobesufficientforallneeds,shouldconsistofa.450express,a.303sportingrifle,anda12-boreshotgun;andIshouldconsider250roundsof.450(50hardand200soft),300roundsof.303



(100hardand200soft),and50012-boreshotcartridgesofsay,the6and8sizes,sufficientforathreemonths'trip.Leatherbandolierstocarry50eachofthesedifferentcartridgeswouldalsoproveveryuseful.

Acoupleofhundredrocketsofvariouscoloursshouldcertainlybetaken,astheyareinvaluableforsignallingtoandfromcampafterdark.Thesecanbeobtainedsoastofirefroma12-boreshotgunorfromashortpistol,andsomeshouldalwaysbeleftwiththecampneopara(Headman)foruseasoccasionrequires.

Therifles,cartridges,androcketsshouldbeconsignedtoanagentinMombasa,andsentofffromLondonintin-linedcasesatleastamonthbeforethesportsmanhimselfintendstostart.ItmustberememberedthattheCustomsHouseatMombasachargesa10percentdutyonthevalueofallarticlesimported,sothattheinvoicesshouldbepreservedandproducedforinspection.

Thehunter'skitshouldincludeagoodpithsunhat,acoupleofsuitsofkhaki,leathergaitersoracoupleofpairsofputtees,wash-leatherglovestoprotectthehandsfromthesun,andtwopairsofbootswithhempsoles;longNorwegianbootswillalsobefoundveryuseful.TheusualunderclothingworninEnglandisallthatisrequirediftheshootingistobedoneinthehighlands.Agoodwarmovercoatwillbe

muchappreciatedup-countryinthecooloftheevenings,andalightmackintoshforwetweatheroughtalsotobeincluded.Foruseinrockyorthornycountry,apairofkneeandelbowpadswillbefoundinvaluable,andthosewhofeelthesunshouldalsoprovidethemselveswithaspine-protector.Thelatterisamostusefularticleofkit,foralthoughtheairmaybeprettycool,thesunstrikesdownveryfiercelytowardsmidday.Awell-filledmedicinechestshouldofcoursenotbeforgotten.

Agoodfieldglass,ahuntingandskinningknifeortwo,andaKodakwithabout200filmsshouldalsobecarried.Withregardtothelastitem,IshouldstronglyadviseallwhointendtotakephotographsontheirtriptopayavisittoMr.W.D.YoungonarrivingatNairobi.He

isanenthusiasticphotographer,andwillgladlygiveadvicetoallastolightandtimeofexposure;andasthesearethetwopointswhichrequiremostattention,hintsfromsomeoneofexperienceinthecountryaremostuseful.ImyselfammuchindebtedtoMr.Young'skindlyadvice,andIamsureIshouldnothaveachievedmuchsuccessinmypictureswithoutit.ImadeitapracticeonmylastvisittothecountrytosendhimtheexposedfilmsfordevelopmentwheneverIreachedapostalstation,andIshouldrecommendotherstodothesame,asfilmsdeterioraterapidlyonthevoyagehome;indeedIhadnearlyfourhundredspoiledinthisway,takenwhenIwasinthecountryin1898-99.

Asregardscampequipment,allthatneedbetakenoutfromEnglandare

asmalldouble-flytent,threeJaegerblankets,acollapsiblebath,aWolseleyvalise,andagoodfilter;andeventhesecanbeobtainedjustasgoodlocally.Chopboxes(food)andothernecessarycampgearshouldbeobtainedatMombasaorNairobi,wheretheagentswillputupjustwhatisnecessary.AboutamonthbeforesailingfromEnglandalettershouldbesenttotheagents,statingthedateofarrivalandwhatporters,etc.,willberequired.Thesportsmanwillthenfindeverythingreadyforhim,sothatanimmediatestartmaybemade.

Unlessmoneyisnoobject,Ishouldnotadviseanyonetoengageporters



atMombasa,asequallygoodmencanbeobtainedatNairobi,thussaving20rupeesperheadinreturnrailwayfares.Itmustberememberedthatfortransportworkmenareinfinitelypreferabletodonkeys,asthelatterareexasperatinglyslowandtroublesome,especiallyonroughgroundoroncrossingstreams,whereeveryloadhastobeunpacked,carriedover,andthenreloadedontheanimal'sback.Thecaravanforonesportsman--ifheintendsgoingfarfromtherailway--isusuallymadeupasfollows,thoughtheexactnumbersdependuponmanyconsiderations:

1Headman................50rupees[1]permonth.1Cook...................35""1Gun-bearer.............20""1"Boy"(personalservant)20""2Askaris(armedporters).12""each.30Porters................10""each.

[1]TherupeeinBritishEastAfricaisonthebasisof15tothepoundsterling.

Theportersareallregistered,theGovernmenttakingasmallfeefortheregistration;andaccordingtocustomhalfthewagesdueforthe

wholetripareadvancedtothemenbeforeastartismade.Thesportsmanisobligedtoprovideeachporterwithajersey,blanketandwater-bottle,whilethegun-bearerand"boy"getapairofbootsinaddition.Acottonshelter-tentandacookingpotmustalsobefurnishedforeveryfivemen.

Thefoodforthecaravanismostlyrice,ofwhichtheHeadmangetstwokibabas(akibabaisabout1-1/2lb.)perday;thecook,gun-bearer,"boy"andaskarisoneandahalfkibabas,andtheordinaryporters,onekibaba,eachperday.

ItisthedutyoftheHeadmantokeepdisciplineonthesafari(caravanjourney),bothincampandonthemarch,andtoseetothedistribution

andsafetyoftheloads,thepitchingandstrikingofcamp,theissueofposho(food)totheporters,etc.Healwaysbringsuptherearofthecaravan,andonhimdependsgreatlythegeneralcomfortofthesportsman.Forourtripatthebeginningof1906,wemanagedtosecureasplendidneapara,andneverhadtheleasttroublewiththeportersallthetime.HisonlydrawbackwasthathecouldnotspeakEnglish,buthetoldmewhenheleftusthathewasgoingtolearn.AnybodysecuringhimasHeadmanwillbelucky;hisnameisMunyakibinDewani,andhecaneasilybefoundatMombasa.

Thecookisalsoanimportantmemberofthecaravan,andagoodoneshouldbeprocuredifpossible.Itiswonderfulwhatanexperiencednativempishi(cook)canturnoutinthewayofamealinafewminutes

aftercampispitched.

Asgun-bearer,mosthunterspreferaSomali.Ihavenevertriedone,butamtoldthattheyareinclinedtobetroublesome;theycertainlyratethemselvesveryhighly,anddemandaboutfourtimesasmuchwagesasanequallygoodSwahili.

Incamp,thedutiesoftheaskarisaretokeepupthefireandwatchatnight,andtopitchandstriketheBwana's(Master's)tent.Onthemarchoneleadsthecaravan,theotherbringsuptherear;theygive



assistanceintheeventofanytroublewiththeloads,seethatnodesertionstakeplace,allownostragglingandgenerallydowhattheycantoprotectthecaravan.Theyareeacharmedwithanoldsniderrifleand10roundsofballcartridge,andaregenerallyverydangerousmentotheirfriendswhentheytakeitintotheirheadstofiretheirweapons.

Theordinaryporterswillcarrytheir60-lb.loadsdayinanddayoutwithoutcomplaint,solongastheyare,wellfed;butstintthemoftheirrice,andtheyatoncebecomesulkymutineers.Inadditiontocarryingtheloads,theypitchandstrikecamp,procurefirewoodandwater,andbuildgrasshutsifastayofmorethanadayisintendedtobemadeatoneplace.Onthewhole,theSwahiliporterisoneofthejolliestandmostwillingfellowsintheworld,andIhavenothingbutpraiseforhim.

Itmaybethatoursportsmanintendstoconfinehisshootingtriptotheneighbourhoodoftherailway;inthiscase,thebestplanistohireoneofthespecialcarriagesfromtheTrafficManageroftheUgandaRailway.Thesecarriages,whichhavegoodsleeping,cooking,andbathaccommodation,canbeattachedtoalmostanytrain,andmovedfromstationtostationorleftstandinginasidingatthedirectionsofthehunter.Thisisthecheapestandmostcomfortablewayofspendingashorttimeinthecountry,asnotent,campequipment,orregular

portersarerequired;andsomequitegoodsportcanbeobtainedintothebargain.

Again,ifthehunterintendsshooting,say,intheKenyaProvince,asmanyportersasherequiresmaybeobtainedfromtheofficialinchargeatFortHall.ThepayoftheKikuyuporterinsuchcircumstancesisonlytwoannasaday,whileheprovideshisownfood;neitheristhesportsmanaskedtofurnishhimwithablanket,jersey,andwater-bottlesolongasheisnottakenoutofhisownProvince.EachProvinceis,infact,governedasregardsportersbyitsownspecialconditions,whichcaneasilybeascertainedonarrivalinthecountry.

TherearethreelinesofsteamerswhichhavedirectsailingstoMombasa

aboutonceamonth.Twoofthese(theUnion-CastleandtheGermanEastAfricanLines)sailfromSouthampton,callingatMarseilles,whilethethird(theMessageries-Maritimes)startsfromthelatterport.AsaruletravellerstoEastAfricajourneybytheoverlandroutetoMarseillesandthenceonbysteamertoMombasa--thewholejourneyfromLondonaveragingabouteighteendays.

ThepresentfaresforthebestaccommodationfromLondontoMombasabytheUnion-CastleLine(includingrailwaytickettoMarseilles)areasfollowsFirst-ClassSingle,about48pounds;Return(availableforoneyear)about93pounds.

ThefaresbytheGermanEastAfricanLine(includingrailwayticketto

Marseilles)are:--First-Class;Single,about48pounds.TheReturnfare(availableforone;year)isdoubletheSinglefare,less10percent,ofoceanpartofjourney.

BytheMessageries-MaritimesLinethethroughFirst-ClassSinglefarefromLondontoMombasa(includingrailwaytickettoMarseilles)isabout48pounds.TheReturnfare(availablefortwoyears)isabout72pounds.

FairlygoodhotelaccommodationcanbehadatbothMombasaandNairobi.



BeforeanyshootingcanbedoneitisnecessarytotakeoutaGameLicense,whichmaybeobtainedwithoutdifficultyateitherofthesetwocentres.Thislicense(whichcosts50pounds)imposesanobligationonthesportsmantomakeareturnbeforeheleavesthecountryofeveryanimalshotbyhim.Byobtainingaspeciallicensetwoelephants,agiraffe,greaterkudu,buffaloandelandmaybeshot;buttherearevariousstipulationsandfeesattachingtothislicensewhichalterfromtimetotime.

FairlygoodmapsofthecountrymaybeobtainedatStanford's,LongAcre,W.C.,whiletheGameLawsandRegulationscanbeprocuredfromtheColonialOfficeinDowningStreet.

PassengertrainsleaveMombasaat11a.m.onMondays,Wednesdays,Fridays,andSaturdays,andaretimedtoarriveatNairobiat11:15nextmorningandatKisumu(therailwayterminusonLakeVictoriaNyanza)at9o'clockonthemorningfollowing.TheFirst-ClassReturnfaresfromMombasatoNairobi,Kisumu,andEntebbeare5pounds17s.9d.,10pounds10s.3d.,and13pounds13s.3d.respectively.

Itisunnecessarytospecifydistrictbydistrictwhenparticularspeciesofgamearetobefound,forthesportsmancaneasilylearnthisforhimselfandgetthelatestnewsofgamemovementsonhis

arrivalatMombasa.Asamatteroffact,thewholecountryaboundsingame,andtherecannotbelackofsportandtrophiesforthekeenshikari.Theheadsandskinsshouldbeverycarefullysun-driedandpackedintin-linedcaseswithplentyofmoth-killerforshipmenthome.Formountinghistrophiesthesportsmancannotdobetter,Ithink,thangotoRowlandWardofPiccadilly.Ihavehadminesetupbythisfirmforyearspast,andhavealwaysfoundtheirworkexcellent.

Iconsiderthat400poundsshouldcovertheentirecostofathreemonths'shootingtriptoEastAfrica,includingpassagebothways.Thefrugalsportsmanwilldoubtlessdoitonless,whiletheextravagantmanwillprobablyspendverymuchmore.

Shouldtimebeavailable,atriptotheVictoriaNyanzashouldcertainlybemade.ThevoyageroundtheLakeinoneofthecomfortablerailwaysteamerstakesabouteightdays,butthecrossingtoEntebbe,theofficialcapitalofUganda,canbedoneinseventeenhours,thoughitusuallytakestwenty-seven,asatnighttheboatsanchorforshelterundertheleeofanisland.ThesteamerremainslongenoughinEntebbeharbourtoenabletheenergetictravellertopayaflyingvisitinarickshawtoKampala,thenativecapital,sometwenty-onemilesoff.Ispentamostinterestingdaylastyearinthisway,andhadachatwiththeboyKingofUganda,DaudiChwa,atMengo.Hewasthenaboutnineyearsold,andverybrightandintelligent.Hemadenoobjectiontomytakinghisphotograph,butitunfortunatelyturnedoutafailure.

ItiscurioustofindtheBaganda(i.e.,peopleofUganda)highlycivilised--themajorityareChristians--surroundedastheyareonallsidesbynationsofpracticallynakedsavages;anditisaveryinteresting,sighttowatchtheminthe"bazaar"atKampala,cladinlongflowingcottongarments,andbusilyengagedinbarteringtheproductsofthecountryundertheshadeoftatteredumbrellas.UnfortunatelythegreatscourgeofthedistrictroundtheshoresoftheLakeisthesleepingsickness,whichinthepastfewyearshascarriedoffthousandsofthenatives,andhasquitedepopulatedtheislands,whichwereoncedenselyinhabited.Thediseaseiscommunicatedbythe



biteofaninfectedfly,buthappilythispestisonlyfoundincertainwell-definedregions,sothatifthetravelleravoidstheseheisquiteassafe,asregardssleepingsickness,asifhehadremainedinEngland.

OnthereturnjourneyfromEntebbe,Jinja,aportonthenorthsideoftheVictoriaNyanza,isusuallycalledat.Thisplaceisofgreatinterest,asitisherethattheLakenarrowsintoabreadthofonlyafewhundredyards,and,rushingovertheRiponFalls,formsthelong-sought-forsourceoftheNile.ThemagnificentviewofthemightyriverstretchingawaytothenorthamidenchantingsceneryismostinspiringandonecanwellimaginehowelatedSpekemusthavefeltwhenafterenduringcountlesshardships,heatlastlookeduponitandthussolvedoneofthegreatproblemstheancients.

II.

Thefollowing,isaliteraltranslationoftheHindustanipoemreferredtoonp.104:--

INTHENAMEOFALLAH,THEMERCIFUL,THECOMPASSIONATE:

FirstmustIspeaktothepraiseandgloryofGod,whoisinfiniteandincomprehensible,

Whoiswithoutfaultorerror,whoistheLife,thoughwithoutbodyorbreath.

Hehasnorelatives,norfathernorson,beinghimselfincomparableandpassionless.

Hisistheknowledgeoftheknownandoftheunknown,andalthoughwithoutatongue,yetdoeshespeakinmightytones.

I,Roshan,cametothiscountryofAfrica,anddidfinditindeedastrangeland;

Manyrocks,mountains,anddenseforestsaboundinginlionsand

leopards;

Alsobuffaloes,wolves,deer,rhinoceroses,elephants,camels,andallenemiesofman;

Gorillas,ferociousmonkeysthatattackmen,blackbaboonsofgiantsize,spirits,andthousandsofvarietiesofbirds;

Wildhorses,wilddogs,blacksnakes,andallanimalsthatahunterorsportsmancoulddesire.

Theforestsaresodarkanddreadfulthateventheboldestwarriorsshrinkfromtheirawfuldepths.

NowfromthetownofMombasa,arailwaylineextendsuntoUganda;

Intheforestsborderingonthisline,therearefoundthoselionscalled"man-eaters,"andmoreovertheseforestsarefullofthornsandpricklyshrubs.

PortionsofthisrailwayfromMombasatoUgandaarestillbeingmade,andheretheselionsfellontheworkmenanddestroyedthem.



Suchwastheirhabit,dayandnight,andhundredsofmenfellvictimstothesesavagecreatures,whoseveryjawsweresteepedinblood.

Bones,flesh,skinandblood,theydevouredall,andleftnotatracebehindthem.

Becauseofthefearofthesedemonssomesevenoreighthundredofthelabourersdeserted,andremainedidle;

Sometwoorthreehundredstillremained,buttheywerehauntedbythisterribledread,

Andbecauseoffearfortheirlives,wouldsitintheirhuts,theirheartsfullofforebodingandterror.

Everyoneofthemkeptafireburningatnight,andnonedaredtoclosehiseyesinsleep;yetwouldsomeofthembecarriedawaytodestruction.

Thelion'sroarwassuchthattheveryearthwouldtrembleatthesound,andwherewasthemanwhodidnotfeelafraid?

Onallsidesaroseweepingandwailing,andthepeoplewouldsitandcrylikecranes,complainingofthedeedsofthelions.

I,Roshan,chiefofmypeople,alsocomplainedandprayedtoGod,theProphet,andtoourspiritualadviser.

AndnowwillIrelatethestoryoftheEngineerinchargeoftheline.

Hekeptsometenortwentygoats,forthesakeoftheirmilk;

Butonenightawildbeastcame,anddestroyedthemall,notonebeingleft.

Andinthemorningitwasreportedbythewatchman,whoalsostatedthattheman-eaterwasdailydestroyingthelabourersandworkmen,and

doinggreatinjury;

AndtheytooktheEngineerwiththemandshowedhimthefootprintsoftheanimal.

Andafterseeingwhattheanimalhaddone,theEnglishmanspoke,andsaid,

"Forthisdamagethelionshallpayhislife."Andwhennightcamehetookhisgunandinverytruthdestroyedthebeast.

PattersonSahibisindeedabraveandvaliantman,likeuntothosePersianheroesofold--Rustem,Zal,SohrabandBerzoor;

Sobraveishe,thatthegreatestwarriorsstoodaghastathisaction;

Tallinstature,young,mostbraveandofgreatstrengthishe.

Fromtheothersideofthelinecamethenoiseandcriesofthosewhocomplainedthatthesesavagebeastswereeatinganddestroyingmen,

Forsuchhasbeenthehabitoflionsfromtimeimmemorial,andgroupsofpeoplehavefallenvictimstotheirfury.



Thosewhowereproudorboastful,havebutsacrificedtheirlivesuselessly;

Butto-dayPattersonSahibwillwatchforthelionhimself!

Forthepeoplehavecomplainedloudly,andthevaliantonehasgoneforthwithhisgunintotheforest.

Soonafterthepeoplehadretiredatnighttotheirtents,thefearlesslionmadehisappearance;

PattersonSahibloadedbothbarrelsofhisgunandwentforthagainsthim.

Hefiredmanytimesinsuccessionandtotallyparalysedtheanimal.

Thelionroaredlikethunderasthebulletsfoundtheirwaytohisheart.

ThisEnglishman,Patterson,ismostbrave,andisindeedtheveryessenceofvalour;

Lionsdonotfearlions,yetoneglancefromPattersonSahibcowedthe

bravestofthem.

Hefled,makingfortheforest,whilethebulletsfollowedhardafterhim;

Sowasthisman-eaterrenderedhelpless;helaydownindespair,

Andafterhehadcoveredachain'sdistance,thesavagebeastfelldown,acorpse.

Nowthepeople,bearinglightsintheirhands,allrantolookattheirdeadenemy.

ButtheSahibsaid"Return,mychildren;thenightisdark,donotrushintodanger."

Andinthemorningallthepeoplesawthelionlyingdead.

AndthentheSahibsaid,"Donotthinkofworkto-day--makeholiday,enjoyandbemerry."

Sothepeoplehadholidayandmademerrywithfriendsfromwhomtheyhadbeenlongparted,onaccountofthelion:

Andtheabsenceofthosewhohadrunawaywasforgiven,andtheirmoneyallowedthem--Agenerousaction,comparabletotheforgivenessofGod

andtheProphettosinnersandcriminalsonthedayofjudgment.

Oh!poet,leavethiskindofsimile,itistoodeepforthee;

WemortalshavetheDevil,likeuntoafiercelion,everafterus;

Oh!Roshan,mayGod,theProphet,andyourspiritualadviser,safeguardyoudayandnight!

Onelion,however,remained,andforfearofhimallwentindread;



Sixteendayspassed,allbeingwell,andeveryoneenjoyedapeacefulmind;

Butagain,ontheseventeenthday,thelionappearedandremainedfromsunsettosunrise.

Hekeptonroamingaboutintheneighbourhoodlikeageneralreconnoitringtheenemy'sposition.

OnthefollowingdaytheSahibsentforthepeopleandwarnedthemalltobecarefuloftheirlives;

"Donotgooutfromtheafternoonevenuntilthefollowingmorning,"hesaid.

NowthiswasthenightofShab-i-Kadr,aMuslimfestival:

Andatnightwhenallhadretiredtorest,thelioncameinarage,

AndPattersonSahibwentforthintothefieldtomeethim.

Andwhenhesawthebeast,hefiredquickly,bulletafterbullet.

Thelionmadeagreatuproar,andfledforhislife,butthebulletsneverthelessfoundaresting-placeinhisheart.

Andeveryonebegantoshriekandgroanintheiruneasysleep,jumpingupinfear,whenunexpectedlytheroaringofthelionwasheard.

Allthoughtofsleepwasbanished,andfearcameinitsplace:

AndtheSahibgaveemphaticordersthatnooneshouldgoout,orroamabout.

Andinthemorningwefollowedthemarksofbloodthathadflowedfromthewoundedanimal,

Andsomefiveorsevenchainsaway,wefoundthelion,lyingwoundedandingreatpain.

AndwhentheSahibsawtheanimalhefiredbulletsincessantly;

ButwhenthelionsawtheSahib,thesavageanimal,burningwithrage,andpain,

CamebyleapsandboundsclosetotheSahib;ButherehewastomeethismatchinabraveSahibwholoadedhisguncalmly,andfiredagainandagain,killingthebeast.

AllthePunjaubisassembledtogetherandagreedthattheSahibwasamanwhoappreciatedandcaredforothers,somuchsothatheroamedaboutintheforestsforoursake,inordertoprotectus.

Previously,manyEnglishmenhadcomeheretoshootbuthadbeendisappointed,

Becausethelionwasverycourageousandferocious,andtheSahibswereafraid;



Butforthesakeofourlives,PattersonSahibtookallthistrouble,riskinghisownlifeintheforest.

Sotheycollectedmanyhundredsofrupees,andoffereditasapresenttotheSahib,becausehehadundergonesuchperil,inordertosaveourlives.

Oh!Roshan,allthepeopleappearedbeforetheSahibsaying,"Youareourbenefactor";

ButtheSahibdeclinedtoacceptthepresent,nottakingapiceofit.

SothenagainthePunjaubisassembled,andconsultedastohowtheservicethattheSahibhaddonethemcouldmostsuitablyherewarded.

AnditwasagreedtosendallthemoneytoEngland,inorderthatitmightbeconvertedintosomesuitablepresent,

Whichshouldbearanengravingofthetwolions,andthenameofthemistari[1],headoftheworkmen.

Thepresentshouldbesuch,andsosuitablydecorated,astobeacceptabletoPattersonSahib;

Incolouritshouldresemblemoonandsun;andthatwouldindeedbeafitpresent,sothattheSahibwouldbepleasedtoacceptit.

Oh!Roshan,Ihopethathewillacceptthispresentforshootingthelions,assomesmallrewardforhisaction.

MynativehomeisatChajanlat,inthethanaofDomli,whichisinthedistrictofJhelum,andIhaverelatedthisstoryasitactuallyoccurred.

PattersonSahibhasleftme,andIshallmisshimaslongasIlive,andnow

RoshanmustroamaboutinAfrica,sadandregretful.

[1]Foreman-mason.

ComposedbyRoshanmistari,sonofKadurmistariBakhsh,nativeofthevillageofChajanlat,Dakhli,PostOfficeDomli,districtofJhelum.Dated29thJanuary,1899.

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