Managing Household and Structural Pests O˜cal Instructor · 2014-06-03 · get enough points...
Transcript of Managing Household and Structural Pests O˜cal Instructor · 2014-06-03 · get enough points...
Chapter 24
Managing Household and
Structural Pests Learning Objectives1. Identify characteristics of common
household and structural pests
2. Identify the damage caused by common household and structural pests
3. List the steps for managing household and structural pests
4. Explain different methods of non-chemical of pest management
5. Explain the behavior and life cycle of a pest can influence the management of that pest
O�cal TMG
InstructorCopy
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Household pests are unwanted, detri-mental organisms. Insects, or “bugs,” are what most people think of as
household pests. However, other organisms such as spiders, scorpions, centipedes, mil-lipedes, ticks, sowbugs, pillbugs, mites, rats, mice, snakes, bats, squirrels, birds, molds and fungi may also enter structures and become household pests. In Tennessee, at least one of about 40 common pests is found in every home at any one time or another. Even the most conscientious person cannot always avoid an occasional pest infestation.
Under optimal conditions, large popula-tions of an insect, rodent or other pest can oc-cur in the yard, home, farm or neighborhood. Large numbers of a pest species can develop in trees, stumps, flower beds, mulch, leaf litter, garbage, wood piles, ditch banks, animal car-casses, stored products, spilled materials, sewer lines and other sites. Pests come to a home or other structure because they are attracted by the light, warm air, moisture, food and odors. To a pest, an attractive odor can be from a dead bird, a rodent, an insect, a nest, a soured mop or spilled materials. Pests enter homes
and structures through openings in the walls or floors, around pipes or cracks, or under doors or windows. Pests seeking shelter may build nests or hibernate within the walls, attic or living quarters of a home. Basically, most household pests will seek shelter in the dark cavities in walls or crawl spaces.
Managing PestsTo prevent pest problems in the home, pests need to be managed. Luckily, many pests are easy to manage. Limiting access to food, water and shelter may result in effective pest management. Management devices such as vacuums and traps are also helpful. Pesticides can also be used. Pesticides are most beneficial when exposure to humans, their property and the environment is reduced. For more informa-tion on using pesticides, see Chapter 22, Con-trolling Pests Safely. Integrated Pest Manage-ment, or IPM, can also be an effective method of controlling pests. For more information on IPM, see the Tip Box below and Chapter 21, Integrated Pest Management Strategies for Landscape and Garden.
Managing Household and Structural Pests
Steps of Integrated Pest Management
Prevent pests: Remove the pest’s access to food, water and shelter through sanitation and exclusion.
▪ Food: Clean spills and crumbs, use garbage cans with tight-fitting lids, train pets to eat food within 10 minutes, date food being placed in storage and use older food first, empty garbage cans at least twice a week, and store outside cans away from the home
▪ Water and moisture: Fix leaky plumbing or dripping faucets, ensure water from downspouts and foundation drains moves away from the home, and adequately ventilate crawlspaces and attics
▪ Exclusion: Walk around the perimeter of structures to determine possible pest entry points and add door sweeps or weather stripping to sliding glass doors and windows that are poorly sealed. Caulk openings in win-dow frames, repair holes in screens, seal cracks and holes in the foundation, screen vent openings in foundation walls and attic, seal voids around pipes with steel wool or copper gauze and expandable foam, etc.
Monitor and inspect for pests: Determine the need for pest management. Always identify a pest and/or damage before initiating management procedures.
Choose the least hazardous approach: Vacuums with high-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filters can prevent allergens from becoming air-borne. If pesticides are needed, use the least hazardous pesticide that is still effective.
Target pesticides to the pest: Pesticides, such as baits, insect growth regulators (IGRs) or dusts, applied into voids, cracks or crevices where the pest is found will reduce exposure to non-target organisms.
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Inspecting and MonitoringPest identification allows for a better un-derstanding of that pest’s preferred food and habit. This will help determine the best management strategy. If pests are found, there are many different management methods. A flashlight and screwdriver are usually sufficient
to inspect a structure. During an inspection, look for the following:
▪ Actual pests ▪ Signs of pest activity
▫ Rodent hair ▫ Feces and urine-urine will fluoresce
under a black light ▫ Tracks ▫ Rub marks ▫ Signs of gnawing and digging ▫ Webbing
▪ Food and water sources ▪ Possible nesting or resting sites ▪ Conditions favorable to in-
sects and rodents
Figure 1. Pet Food
B.
Space under outside door
Figure 2. Sealing Gaps around DoorsA.
Garage door
Figure 3. Seal HolesSeal holes in the foundation and around plumbing, conduit and wires.
Figure 4.Mulches next to the foundation provide habitat and food for many occasional invaders.
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▫ Warm temperatures (75-85° F) ▫ Condensation ▫ Moist wood ▫ Humid atmosphere ▫ Cracks or crevices ▫ Plumbing leaks ▫ Spilled materials ▫ Food left overnight in pet feeding
dishesMonitoring devices such as glue boards and
pheromone traps can be useful to detect insects that may have been previously overlooked. Glue boards are very effective in detecting the presence of cockroaches, brown recluse spiders and rodents. These should be placed near edges of walls or cabinets near possible shelter, food or water. Pheromone traps are available for most household insects.
IdentificationAfter the pest is caught, it must be identified. Drawings or images of many pest species are found throughout this chapter as well as in Chapter 6, Entomology. Additionally, a list of resources regarding pest identification is located in the back of this chapter. If it is not possible to identify the specimen with available resources, it can be taken to the local county Extension agent.
Once the pest has been identified, it can be determined where it lives, what it prefers to
feed on, if it can cause structural damage, if it is a health threat or if it is just a nuisance. This information can then be used to determine the most effective management technique.
Landscaping, Construction and Maintenance PracticesLandscaping, construction and maintenance practices can influence pest populations and pest entry into structures. To minimize house-hold pest populations due to these practices, the following techniques can be employed:
▪ Trim branches away from build-ings to prevent ants, roof rats and squirrels from gaining access
▪ Keep a 12- to 18-inch-wide bare zone around the base of the structure to decrease termite, millipede, cricket, sow-bug, pillbug and clover mite populations
▪ Do not place mulch over termiticide-treated soil next to the foundation, this can give termites access to the structure without contacting the termiticide
▪ Use landscaping materials such as concrete or vinyl in place of wood be-cause they will not degrade as quickly as wood and will not provide food for termites and shelter for other critters
▪ Do not let wood from the struc-ture contact the soil
▪ Remove form boards, construction stakes and scrap lumber from construction sites
▪ Support wood posts on a concrete base ▪ Repair plumbing leaks and leaks in roofs
and around windows as quickly as pos-sible because termites and other pests are attracted to moisture (Figure 5)
▪ Clean leaves and debris from gutters ▪ Down spouts should empty
into drainpipes to conduct wa-ter away from the structure
▪ Remove debris such as firewood, boards and other clutter from the base of buildings because it can harbor pests such as large cockroaches, carpenter ants, wood-boring beetles and termites. Also, removing the debris will discour-age rodents from nesting; this in turn could reduce snake and tick problems
IPM in School and in Childcare Areas
Any person applying pesticides in a school is required to have a pesticide ap-plicators license or to be under the direct supervision of a person licensed to apply pesticides. Therefore, teachers or other occupants cannot bring or use pesticides inside schools unless they are under the supervision of a licensed operator. Permission by the officially designated IPM coordinator may also be required. Students, staff and parents should have access to a logbook that contains pesti-cide application records and other pest management services and information, including copies of labels and Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) used at each school.
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▪ Reduce existing insect popula-tions around or under structures to decrease the presence of predators such as centipedes and scorpions
Contacting a Professional Pest Management CompanyTo control some pests, it may be necessary to hire a professional. Professionals have the knowledge and training to apply appropriate pesticides needed to rid the home or structure of certain pests. Quite often, professional pest management technicians have access to more effective active ingredients, formulations and equipment than the homeowner. Additionally, the professional is not only trained in the life cycles, habits and preferences of pests, but also in the safest and best techniques to control them.
In Tennessee, pest management technicians must either pass a test before they can apply pesticides or work under the direct observation of a licensed operator. Additionally, techni-cians should carry a commercial pesticide applicator certification card verifying they are approved by the Tennessee Department
of Agriculture and attend training sessions to obtain points to keep that card. If they do not get enough points within 3 years, they have to take another test. Also, if they are charging a fee, they must work for a licensed operator and the charter number of their employer’s business must appear on their truck.
Figure 5. Repair Plumbing LeaksLighting
Many insects are active at night and are attracted to lights. Sodium vapor lights are much less attractive to in-sects. Therefore, using yellow bug lights or sodium vapor lights near doorways, driveways and sidewalks will discourage insect pests. Also, using mercury vapor or incandescent lights around the perim-eter of the property will lure insects away from buildings.
When to Ask for Professional Help
Instances in which a professional may be preferred include:
▪ When treating for termites, because special equipment and training are needed
▪ When treating for other wood-de-stroying insects and organisms
▪ If the pest is found in a difficult-to-reach location and requires treat-ment with special equipment
▪ If there are concerns about pesti-cide exposure during mixing and application
▪ If there is not enough time to do it yourself
▪ If several attempts have failed to management the pest
Professionals need your help to man-age pests too. Please perform all the sanitation and exclusion practices they recommend.
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Pests On or Near FoodCockroaches, ants and flies are some of the most common pests found on or near food in buildings. Successful suppression of these pests is based on understanding their habits so that management methods can be directed to susceptible life stages. General descriptions of these pests are included in the following sec-tion along with drawings of some of the more common species. For more complete informa-tion on identifying cockroaches, ants or flies, refer to some of the resources listed in the resource section at the end of this chapter.
AntsAs a group, ants are the most difficult house-hold pests to manage. In a recent survey, pest management technicians indicated ants were the main reason for callbacks. Management efforts by people unfamiliar with ants can worsen the problem.
BehaviorAnts are social insects. Their nests or colonies can be found indoors and out, although some species have preferred nesting sites. A nest contains one or more queen ants laying eggs and being cared for by worker ants. Worker ants, which are often sterile or non-reproduc-tive female ants, tend to the queen and brood and forage for food. Foraging ants can invade households from colonies living outdoors.
Nests often can be located by follow-ing trails of foraging ants. Indoors, ants nest
almost anywhere. Killing foraging ants rarely solves an ant problem in the home or structure because the colony remains unaffected.
During certain times of the year, many spe-cies produce reproductives. These are winged male and female ants that leave the nest to find a mate and establish new colonies. Mat-ing flights often occur on a warm day after a rain. When winged ants swarm in the home or structure, their colony is likely to be located somewhere inside. Although ants are not closely related to termites, the winged form of these two insects are often confused. Winged ants can be distinguished from termites by several characteristics, see Figure 6.
Ants form new colonies by having a mat-ing flight or from budding. Most colonies are started by a newly mated, winged female reproductive, called the queen ant. After find-ing a suitable nesting site, the queen loses her wings and begins laying eggs, which hatch into legless, grub-like larvae. The queen feeds the larvae as they develop through several stages. They molt and grow between each stage. Afterward, they form pupae and soon emerge as adult ants. Once worker ants have developed, the queen no longer cares for the brood.
Some ant colonies have more than one queen, and mating may occur within the nest without swarming. These ants form new colo-nies by budding. This occurs when workers, the brood and often one or more queen ants leave the nest and move to a new location. Fre-quently, entire colonies move from one nesting site to another almost overnight. Particularly during very wet or abnormally hot and dry weather, ant colonies whose nesting areas are flooded or lack food and water often migrate indoors.
Foraging workers of some ant species estab-lish temporary chemical, or pheromone, trails that help other ants find food and water. Ants are recruited to a resource quickly and in high numbers. Liquid food is brought back to the colony and fed communally among the other members of the colony, including the queen(s) and brood, in a process called trophallaxis. Baiting to control ants takes advantage of these foragers to bring the toxin-laced food to the usually inaccessible colonies.
Ants can be a nuisance as well as a health threat. Worker ants foraging for food and wa-ter become a concern when they infest food or
Figure 6. A Winged Ant and a Winged Termite
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other items in the home or structure. Although most ants consume a wide variety of foods, certain species prefer some types of foods. Some even change their preferences over time. Species of ants that sting, such as imported fire ants, can endanger young children, confined pets and bedridden people. Pharaoh ants can carry disease-causing organisms on their exo-skeleton. Therefore, these ants pose a problem in hospitals and healthcare facilities.
ManagementOutlined below is a general strategy for managing ants that nest or visit indoors. A successful management program is based upon accurate identification, sanitation, pest-proof-ing, monitoring and inspection. If the ants are entering from the outdoors, pest-proofing may be all that is needed. Additionally, if the nest is easily located, then it can be treated directly. However, if more than one nest is present or if the nest cannot be found, baiting is important. Although pest-proofing provides a more permanent barrier, outdoor repellent pesticidal barriers may be used as a supple-ment when nests are only found outdoors. New slow-acting, non-repellent insecticides are also available to professionals for ant management.
IdentificationMake sure a pest ant is properly identified before starting a management program. Ants have different food preferences and different behaviors that will directly impact the ef-ficiency of a pest ant management program. Improper identification is at least partially responsible for the ant management problems experienced today. See Table 1 for common structure-invading ants found in Tennessee.
Ants are small and can be difficult to identify. A hand lens is often needed and a mi-croscope with at least 30x magnification is pre-ferred. Specimens can also be brought to the local Extension agent for identification. Most identification keys are written for the major worker ants, so bring specimens of the largest, wingless ants. Also, ants often have different odors associated with them. Before a specimen is submitted for identification, give it a squeeze -as long as it does not have a stinger- and add the description of the emitted odor to the specimen form. See Table 1. Quick reference guide to ant identification and management.
Collecting Ants for Identification
▪ Place a small dab of honey or jelly in the center of an index card
▪ Place the card where recent ant activity has been seen- always place the card against the edges of the surface, never in the middle
▪ Allow ants to find the food source and recruit other workers. If index cards are placed outdoors, it is best to check the cards within 30 to 45 minutes. Cards left outdoors for a longer period of time may allow other ants to displace the pest ant
▪ Once ants are present on the index card, put the card into a plastic bag and place in the freezer, the cold temperatures will slow the ants down
▪ Squeeze a few frozen ants before preserving them in alcohol and add the odor description to the speci-men identification form
▪ Tap the frozen ants into a vial con-taining alcohol, rubbing alcohol is okay, and submit for identification
Pharaoh Ants
With Pharaoh ants, all the feeding stag-es of the brood must be affected, as well as the queens and workers. Baits do not affect pupae since they do not feed. This may be the reason for a small number of workers present after baiting.
Research has shown that insect growth regulators, such as methoprene, are ef-fective against Pharaoh ants. Workers are usually not affected and therefore, the bait is well distributed throughout the colony. Queens fed these baits fail to produce viable eggs and larval develop-ment is terminated. Insect growth regu-lators take longer to gain control, but are very effective when dealing with large structures, such as hospitals, with exten-sive infestations.
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SanitationAnt problems occur in homes and structures primarily because food, water and favorable nesting sites are available. Therefore, eliminate food and moisture sources that could compete with ant bait. Also, use a mild detergent to wipe ant trails and to remove the trail phero-mone, but do not interfere with foraging trails when ants are trailing to a bait.
Pest-ProofingIt is important to remove access to nesting sites and conditions conducive to nesting and entry. Most ants prefer to nest in outdoor soil or wood, but homes offer many favorable nest sites for certain ants. Cracks and holes in brick veneer, wall voids and structural wood close to heat and moisture sources are commonly used. To pest-proof:
▪ Locate the entry point into the structure and seal these areas to prevent future occurrences
▪ Check potted plants and firewood for ants before bringing them indoors
▪ Check plants for ants before purchasing ▪ Keep branches, vines and other
vegetation from coming in con-tact with the home or structure because ants can use them to gain access to the home or structure
▪ Pull mulch, a common nest site, 12 to 18 inches away from the founda-tion of the home or structure
Monitoring, Inspection and Nest LocationBecause many nests can occur in a structure, it is important to locate all nests or areas of foraging activity. Monitoring will find small, isolated colonies that may otherwise be over-looked and that could re-infest in the future. A successful method of monitoring is to smear honey on index cards and place them around the home, in windowsills and near indoor and outdoor water and food sources. Once all areas of foraging activity are located, they can be treated.
Although monitoring, inspection, sanita-tion and exclusion practices take time and effort, they eliminate undirected, ineffective insecticide spraying indoors. Baiting and ant
elimination by nest treatment is more efficient if these practices are used.
BaitsEffective bait formulations contain slow-acting pesticides that are collected by foraging worker ants and brought back to the colony where the pesticide is fed to other ants, the queen(s) and the brood. Baits exploit the forager caste, causing them to introduce the toxicant into a previously inaccessible nest. Because the toxicant works slowly, it is not associated with death by the colony; therefore, it is continually fed upon.
Some ants are fickle, especially Pharaoh ants, and are reported to switch feeding prefer-ences. Therefore, prior to placing baits, try a taste test by offering several different baits and seeing which is most attractive to the pest ant.
If ants are still present several weeks after the initial baiting, then monitoring and sub-sequent baiting should be performed again. Liquid baits may be consumed quickly and may need to be replenished often. In storage areas, several bait stations should be placed where they are likely to be encountered by ants introduced from stored materials.
Direct Nest TreatmentIf nests are indoors and can be located, treat them with an insecticide registered for this use. However, be aware that many times a foraging trail disappears into the wall and that it may not lead to the nest. Dust formulations are preferred for treating nests indoors because they do not stain, generally give longer residual control than sprays and will fill a void. Apply dusts sparingly in thin, even layers in the ant nest area.
If nests are located outdoors, an individual mound treatment such as baits, drenches, granules, dusts, aerosols or excavation, a broadcast bait or a surface application can be used. Mounds should not be disturbed prior to treatment.
Barrier Treatments Around the Home or Structure
When ants invade from the outdoors, pest-proofing is a more permanent solution to prevent outdoor-nesting ants from entering the home or structure. Pest-proofing can be supplemented with a chemical barrier if the
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Table 1. Quick reference guide to ant identification and management. Information on sanitation, pest-proofing, monitoring and mapping, essential components for an ant management program, can be found in the text prior to this table.
Pest Pest identification Behavior/Damage Management
Odorous house ant, Tapinoma sessile
Nodes on waist: one, very flat, barely noticeable node hidden by the gaster Gaster tip: no circular opening Worker size: 1/8-inch Odor when crushed: a disagreeable, rotten-coconut-like or a banana-like odor Color: brown to black
Foraging: They often avoid other species at a bait even if they arrived first. Outdoors: feed on live & dead insects, and honeydew from aphids. Indoors: feed on sweets and other household foods and often trail to water. Nest Sites: shallow nests in shady, moist areas such as mulch, pine straw, stones, logs, etc and bee hives. Indoors, nests in wall voids near pipes and heaters, bathtraps, termite-damaged wood, beneath carpets and toilets. Moves indoors during periods of heavy rain. Move nests often. Many nests may occur around structures. Life cycle: This species establishes multiple queen colonies. Male odorous house ants collected from lights from the end of May through the end of June.
In general, this ant prefers sweet baits. Program 1 for warm, dry weather: Apply nonrepellent insecticide to foundation base, active trails and potential entry points in conjunction with outdoor liquid baits placed in landscape just beyond spray zone. Program 2: Treat activity indoors with dust, spray or bait and combine with nonrepellent insecticide to foundation base. Replenish baits as needed.
Argentine ant, Linepithema humile
Nodes on waist: one Gaster tip: no circular opening Worker size: 1/8-inch Odor when crushed: disagreeable, rotten-coconut-like or a banana-like odor mixed with faint musty or a dirty foot odor Color: light to dark brown
Foraging: honeydew from aphids, nectar, fruit tree buds, ripened fruit; indoor, sweets, eggs and meats Nest Sites: nest outdoors in mulch and soil, along pine tree roots and into the tree, rocks, etc. Many nests may occur around structures. Life cycle: Many queens in colonies and thus enormous number of individuals because nearby budded colonies are not aggressive toward one another. Colonies bud.
Argentine ants are not widespread in TN, but localized pockets occur in Knoxville, Chattanooga and other areas. See odorous house ants for management guidelines.
Yellow or Citronella ant Acanthomyops spp.
Nodes on waist: one Gaster tip: circular opening Worker size: relatively large, about 3/16 inch Odor when crushed: lemon or citronella Color: yellow to yellow-red
Foraging: Honeydew from subterranean sucking insects; tend these insects; seldom seen foraging during daylight hours; may be found in termite stations Nest Sites: underground, under slabs Life cycle: Yellow ants may swarm in early spring, but when a colony is under heated slab, winter swarms may occur. Termite scares are often caused when they push soil out of basement cracks.
Cracks should be sealed to prevent future entry. Not a common pest.
Allegheny mound ant, Formica sp.
Nodes on waist: one Gaster tip: circular opening Worker size: relatively large, 1/8- to 1/4- inch Shape of thorax: uneven (distinguishes it from carpenter ants) Color: head and thorax red, abdomen and legs dark
Foraging: feeds on living and dead insects, honeydew. Usually not found indoors, but maybe seen around patios and porches. Excellent predator of insects. Nest Sites: large mounds (which causes some confusion with fire ants) often located at interface of woods and fields Life cycle: multiple queen colonies; one colony may have several connected mounds. Reproduce through mating flights in late spring/summer.
Granular ant baits (not baits with oils as attractant), or drench or other individual mound treatments.
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Table 1. Quick reference guide to ant identification and management. Information on sanitation, pest-proofing, monitoring and mapping, essential components for an ant management program, can be found in the text prior to this table.
Pest Pest identification Behavior/Damage Management
Black field ant, Formica sp.
Nodes on waist: one Gaster tip: circular opening Worker size: relatively large, 3/8-inch Shape of thorax: uneven (distinguishes it from carpenter ants) Color: black to very dark brown
Foraging: wide variety including living and dead insects; honeydew; usually not indoors Nest Sites: large mounds that only reach grass height which causes some confusion with fire ants; also under rocks, landscape timbers, firewood, etc. Life cycle: mating flights in spring/summer
Granular ant baits (not baits with oils as attractant), or drench or other individual mound treatments.
Carpenter ants, Camponotus sp.
Nodes on waist: one Gaster tip: circular opening Worker size: relatively large, 1/8- to 5/8- inch Shape of thorax: evenly rounded Color: black, black and red, golden, etc. different for each species
Foraging: most occurs at night, living and dead insects; honeydew Nest Sites: firewood, moisture damaged wood, insulation, trees, fences, etc. Life cycle: Mating flights resulting in single-queen colonies in TN
Locate nest and treat, bait where activity is found, or apply a nonrepellent to foundation base and where ants are entering. See Chapter 10 in this manual for more details.
Crazy ants, Paratrechina sp.
Nodes on waist: one Gaster tip: circular opening Worker size: 1/8- inch Shape of thorax: uneven Color: usually dark Other: first antennal segment long, sometimes twice as long as head, legs long; fast-moving
Foraging: insects, grease sweets, soda, honeydew, seeds; may forage long distances up to 100 ft. Nest Sites: opportunistic nesters in cracks and crevice in moist or dry environments such as soil under logs, stones, timbers, trash, etc. Life cycle: multiple queens; reproduce through budding and mating flights
They are omnivorous, but difficult to attract to ant baits. Correct conducive conditions, locate and treat colonies and use a perimeter treatment to keep subsequent colonies form entering.
False honey ant or winter ant, Prenolepis imparis
Nodes on waist: one Gaster tip: circular opening Worker size: 1/8 - inch Shape of thorax: figure-eight shaped when viewed from above Color: red-brown to black with red; gaster darker than head and alitrunk
Foraging: most obvious in cooler times of the year; forages from 40 to 65 F; feed on sweets, meats, insects and honeydew which expands the abdomen into a heart shape which may cause confusion with acrobat ants Nest Sites: nests in soil or under objects in dark or shaded areas such as woodlands Life cycle: mating flights
Locate colony and inject mound or try a liquid sweet bait.
Little black ant, Monomorium minimum and other spp.
Nodes on waist: two Gaster tip: sting Worker size: 1/16 - inch Antennae: 12-segmented antennae with a three-segmented club Color: black
Foraging: insects, honeydew produced by sucking insects such as aphids, sweets, meats, bread, grease, oils, vegetables and fruits. Nest Sites: in soil, under logs, stones, indoors in rotten wood, woodwork or masonry Life cycle: Reproduction occurs through mating flights and possibly “budding”
Common pest found around homes in Tennessee. Bait indoors. Nests often located outdoors. If so, apply an individual mound treatment including baits.
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Table 1. Quick reference guide to ant identification and management. Information on sanitation, pest-proofing, monitoring and mapping, essential components for an ant management program, can be found in the text prior to this table.
Pest Pest identification Behavior/Damage Management
Pharaoh ant, also called “sugar ants” or “piss ants,” Monomorium pharaonis
Nodes on waist: two Gaster tip: sting Worker size: 1/16 - inch Antennae: 12-segmented antennae with a three-segmented club Color: yellow or orange with the end of the abdomen darkened
Pharaoh ants are considered pests because they:1) are a nuisance by their mere presence; 2) can enter sterile packages, wound dressings, intravenous solutions and tubing; 3) have the potential to carry disease-causing organisms such as Salmonella, Streptococcus, Staphylococcus, Clostridium and Pseudomonas; and 4) can short electrical equipment such as computers. Foraging: insects, honeydew produced by sucking insects such as aphids, sweets, meats, bread, grease, oils, vegetables and fruits. Nest Sites: nests rarely found outdoors; however, almost any indoor crack and crevice close to sources of warmth and water (interior wall voids, between the paper of the insulation and the interior surface [walls, ceiling and attics], areas under or behind window sills, toilets, sinks, switch plates, lights and voids in aluminum window and door frames).Life cycle: These ants do not swarm. Colonies multiply by “budding,” in which a large part of an existing colony migrates, carrying brood to a new nesting site. Hundreds of queens and 10,000 - 100,000s workers may be present.
Because Pharaoh ant colonies are hidden and can occur in virtually any crack or crevice, baiting is the best way to get an insecticide back to the colony. Give a test taste of all baits. Prebait entire structure with honey and natural peanut butter. Place a bait wherever ants are found.
Black imported fire ant, Solenopsis richteri, Hybrid, Solenopsis invicta x Solenopsis richteri, Red imported Fire ant, Solenopsis invicta
Nodes on waist: two Gaster tip: sting Worker size: 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Queen ants 3/8 inch and lose their wings after mating. Antennae: 10-segmented antennae with a two-segmented club Color: reddish brown to dark brown
Foraging: most foraging occurs between 70 and 90F. They feed on insects, other invertebrates, nectar, oils, seeds, and dead animals. Nest Sites: Mounds up to 2 ft. high are built in open areas although they occasionally nest indoors and in such structures as utility housings and tree trunks. Currently 34 southern TN counties quarantined. Life cycle: Only single queen colonies have been found in TN. Mating flights occur on a warm day after a rain. Brood and queen move within the mound in response to temperature.
In general, use the two-step method. Broadcast a bait and seven to 10 days later treat mounds in high traffic areas with an individual mound treatment. Several publications (SP419, The Two Step Method: Managing Fire Ants Around Homes and Neighborhoods; B-6043, Managing Fire Ants in Urban Areas; and B-6076 Managing Red Imported Fire Ants in Agriculture) are available from your local county Extension agent. Treating in the landscape may require category 3 certification.
Pavement ant, Tetramorium caespitum
Nodes on waist: two Gaster tip: sting Worker size: 1/8 - inch Shape of thorax: a small pair of spines on the propodeum, narrow, parallel furrows in the head and thorax Color: brown to black
Foraging: meat, grease, dead insects, seeds and sweets Nest Sites: soil beneath stones, pavement or slabs; indoors in walls, under floors or in insulation. Life cycle: Swarms from outside nests occur in the spring, but may occur continuously if the nest is located indoors.
Baiting is effective for this ant. If repeated swarming occurs indoors, it may be necessary to inject an insecticidal dust into the wall void from where the winged forms emerge. The winged forms may not feed before a flight, so baits would not be effective for them.
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Table 1. Quick reference guide to ant identification and management. Information on sanitation, pest-proofing, monitoring and mapping, essential components for an ant management program, can be found in the text prior to this table.
Pest Pest identification Behavior/Damage Management
Acrobat ant, Crematogaster spp.
Nodes on waist: two-segmented waist that is attached to the top of the gaster; hold their heart-shaped abdomen up over their bodies. Gaster tip: sting Worker size: about 1/8 inch Shape of thorax: spines on the thorax Color: varies
Foraging: honeydew produced by aphids and proteins Nest Sites: under stones, in stumps or dead wood, and occasionally indoors in insulation board, roofing, damp wood and wood previously infested by ants or termites. Life cycle: single queen colonies formed by mating flights
Nest location is especially important if the nest is indoors. Check moist areas. If necessary, a dust or aerosol can be injected into the nest. Pest-proofing will keep outdoor nesting individuals from entering.
Big-headed ants, Pheidole spp.
Nodes on waist: two Gaster tip: sting Worker size: Two sizes of workers. Major worker ants have a relatively large head compared to their bodies. Antennae: 12-segmented antennae with a three-segmented club Shape of thorax: spines on the thorax Color: yellowish-red to reddish-brown
Foraging: live and dead insects, seeds and honeydew outdoors and greasy food sources and sweets indoors. Nest Sites: in soil under rocks, logs, firewood, timbers, mulch or grass Life cycle: single or multiple queens; swarms or budding
Correct conducive conditions, locate and treat colonies, otherwise bait, and use a perimeter treatment to keep subsequent colonies form entering.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 639
physical exclusion methods are not as effec-tive as needed. Barrier treatments can greatly reduce or eliminate ant invasion into the home or structure. New non-repellent insecticides are slow-acting and may allow the pesticide to be transferred to other colony members.
Do not routinely treat the entire premises for ants. Ants are generally beneficial in our landscapes as they scavenge for food and prey on other potential pests such as various cater-pillars and chinch bugs. Some ants even collect and feed on weed seeds.
CockroachesCockroaches are among the most common insect pests found inside buildings. They are especially troublesome where food is prepared and sanitation is lacking. Cockroaches may contaminate food, kitchen utensils and other items, and they leave an unpleasant odor. Because cockroaches move freely from filth to food, they can transfer microorganisms that cause food poisoning and other illnesses. Many people are also allergic to cockroach’s excrement and cast-off skin. While cock-roaches thrive where sanitation is poor, even the cleanliest home or restaurant can become infested.
Small cockroaches enter buildings through produce boxes, beverage cartons or grocery bags. Larger cockroaches gain entry through cracks and openings around windows, doors and pipe penetration. They can also gain entry through sewer and drain lines.
Cockroaches are flat, brownish, fast-running insects with long, slender anten-nae. They have three life stages: egg, nymph and adult (Figure 7). The female cockroach produces small, brown, bean-shaped egg cases called oothecae. Oothecae are deposited in out-of-the-way places. Several nymphs emerge from each egg case. Nymphs resemble adults except that they are smaller and wingless. The nymphs gradually become larger and inhabit the same places as the adults. Cockroaches are prolific breeders. One indigenous cockroach species, the German cockroach, is capable of producing several thousand offspring in less than a year.
Cockroaches are most active at night. Dur-ing the day, cockroaches generally remain hid-den in small cracks and other dark, secluded areas that provide warmth and humidity. At night, they leave their hiding places and search
for food. Cockroaches feed on a wide variety of foods and will eat anything consumed by people. They also feed on materials such as glue, hair, soap, fabrics and filth. Cockroaches readily migrate from one room to another along plumbing and electrical lines and through cracks and openings within walls.
Types of CockroachesThere are more than 50 species of cockroaches in the United States, but only a few infest structures in Tennessee. Determining which type of cockroach is present is essential for determining effective management efforts. The descriptions provided in Table 2 will help identify common cockroach species.
Cockroach ManagementCockroach management is based upon inspec-tion, monitoring, sanitation, exclusion, chemi-cal management and further evaluation.
Inspection/MonitoringSince cockroaches may be hiding in many places, a thorough inspection is essential to locate as many of these areas as possible. An inspection mirror for inspecting underneath, above and behind construction elements; a bright flashlight; and a set of tools to access equipment and other potential hiding places are essential for conducting a cockroach in-spection. Look for living and dead cockroach-es, cast skins, egg capsules and droppings. All of these things will aid in identification. The use of a flushing agent, such as pyrethrins or forced air, irritates or flushes cockroaches into the open. A systematic way to inspect these facilities is to begin at a door or corner and inspect one 3- to 5-foot-wide zone extending from the floor to the ceiling. Continue doing this around the entire perimeter of each room inspecting sinks, ovens, dishwashers, cabinets and any wall-mounted fixtures or equipment.
Sticky traps and glue boards are useful tools for pinpointing areas where cockroaches may be hiding. These monitoring traps should be placed beneath sinks or behind refrigerators and positioned flush against walls, corners or at the junction of two or more construction el-ements. When foraging for food, cockroaches prefer to travel along edges and corners where two surfaces meet, rather than in the open.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 640
SanitationCockroaches are best managed using a combi-nation of techniques. Because roaches flourish where food, moisture and shelter are readily available, sanitation is important in prevent-ing problems. Effective sanitation techniques include the following:
▪ Vacuum all cracks and crevices to remove debris and food because when cockroaches are abundant, vacuuming is the first step in remov-ing large numbers of cockroaches
▪ Crumbs, spills, grease and other food debris should be cleaned
▪ Unwashed dishes, kitchen uten-sils and pet food should not be al-lowed to sit out overnight
▪ Loose food should be stored in tight-fitting containers
▪ Garbage, cardboard boxes and paper bags should not be allowed to accumulate
▪ Items in food storage areas should be removed from cardboard boxes, placed in pest-proof containers and stored off the floor on stainless steel racks
▪ Moisture leaks should be repaired and floor drains routinely sanitized
ExclusionAnother element of cockroach management is exclusion, also known as pest-proofing. Seal-ing cracks, crevices and other openings likely to harbor cockroaches eliminates the need to repeatedly treat these areas with insecti-cides. It is also a good idea to caulk or plug any openings where plumbing pipes or wires pass through walls or floors. This is especially useful in apartments to reduce migration of cockroaches between adjoining units. If cockroaches are migrating into a building from outdoors, seal cracks and other openings to the outside.
Chemical ManagementAlthough good sanitation and exclusion are important, insecticides are usually required to eliminate an existing cockroach problem. An emphasis should be placed on finding and treating cockroach harborages, rather than treating along baseboards, wall coverings and other exposed surfaces. Besides being more effective, direct placement of insecticides into cracks and other locations that cockroaches may be living ensures that residues will not contaminate food or food preparation surfaces or be contacted by children or pets.
Baits are the most widely used formulation for managing cockroaches. Cockroaches locate and feed on the bait and crawl away to die,
Useful Facts about Cockroaches
Cockroaches have been around for a long time, more than 300 million years. In nature, cockroaches scavenge and re-cycle nutrients, thus providing an impor-tant link in the food chain.
Allergy to cockroaches is one of the most common allergies to asthmat-ics. Cockroach allergens come from the body, cast skin, egg cases and feces. Symptoms include wheezing, runny nose, watery eyes, skin rashes and bron-chial asthma.Figure 7. Cockroach Life Cycle
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 641
usually within a few days. Bait carried back to the nesting area also kills other roaches after being expelled in the sputum and feces. Some baits come prepackaged with the insecticide and food attractant confined within a plastic, child-resistant container; others are formulated as pastes, dusts, granules or gels. Because baits must be ingested to be effective, they must be placed within a few feet of where cockroaches are likely to be living.
Residual insecticides may be formulated and applied as liquid or aerosol sprays, dusts, granules or baits. Liquids and aerosols are typically used for injection into cracks and crevices; whereas, dust formulations are used primarily for treating wall voids and hollow spaces beneath cabinets and appliances.
Non-residual insecticides are those products applied to obtain control of cockroaches only during the time of treatment. Pyrethrin or res-methrin is often used in conjunction with re-sidual products to locate and flush out hidden infestations of cockroaches. They can also pro-vide rapid, although short-lived, knockdown of cockroaches present at the time of application. Non-residual insecticides are usually applied with aerosol or ultra low volume (ULV) equip-ment and directed into areas suspected of har-boring cockroaches. Indiscriminate dispersal of non-residual insecticides into the air, such as fogging or space treatment, should normally be avoided because it will only disperse and drive cockroaches deeper into wall voids and other protected locations.
Because cockroaches are typically found in areas where food is prepared, served or stored, special care must be taken not to contaminate food, dishes, cooking utensils or food prepa-ration surfaces with insecticides. Thus, it is important to use only materials that are labeled for use in food-preparation areas, and before treatment, either remove or place these items in plastic bags or cover them with polyethylene sheeting. Additionally, before treatment, it is essential that all insecticide labels be read in their entirety. Some products can only be used in non-food areas, such as garbage rooms and mop closets, where foods are never processed, prepared, served or stored. Other insecticides can only be applied into cracks and crevices to limit potential contact with food or food preparation surfaces. As with any insecticide application, the label is the best guide.
Monitor and EvaluateUse glue boards and visual inspections to help determine if treatment is necessary. After a cockroach management program begins, evaluate the effectiveness of the methods. If populations persist, reevaluate the situation. Look for other sources of infestations, make sure that all possible entryways are blocked, be certain that food and water sources are eliminated as much as possible, and continue sealing and eliminating hiding places. Also, if necessary, repeat insecticide applications. However, if insecticides appear to be less effec-tive, resistance may be occurring. Resistance may be a result of indiscriminate application and overuse of insecticides.
Once cockroach populations are man-aged, continue monitoring with glue boards or sticky traps to check for reinfestation. To avoid encouraging a new infestation, maintain sanitation and exclusion techniques. If severe reinfestation occurs, consider having the areas modified or remodeled to reduce the amount of suitable cockroach habitat.
See Table 2. Quick reference to cockroach-es.
FliesFlies, especially in large numbers, can be very annoying and seriously interfere with work and recreational activities. For centuries, flies have had a significant impact on human health and welfare because of their ability to spread disease. Most fly species have evolved to feed and breed in decaying organic matter includ-ing garbage, sewage, dead animals or manure. Flies have a great potential for spreading disease organisms because they show little preference when selecting feeding sites. They will just as readily feed on dog droppings as they will potato salad.
Flies are well equipped to transmit bacteria and other disease-producing organisms. Most are highly mobile and their bodies are covered with thousands of tiny hairs. Flies have pads on the bottom of their feet that aid in the mechanical pickup and transfer of pathogenic organisms. Many species, such as the house-fly, also have mouthparts for lapping up and ingesting liquid foods. As the housefly feeds, it regurgitates digestive enzymes and bacteria onto the food surface.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 642
Fly Life CycleAll flies have four stages in their develop-ment: egg, larva, pupa and adult. The habitat that the adult female chooses to lay her eggs differs depending upon species (Table 3). Optimum larval development requires that the breeding medium be moist, but not wet. Many flies of public health significance lay their eggs in moist, decaying organic matter; human garbage and waste; manure of domestic animals; or decaying vegetation. After the eggs hatch, the larvae -called maggots- feed upon organic material, eventually transforming into the pupal stage from which they later emerge as adults. The development rate varies among species and is greatly influenced by tempera-ture. Under ideal conditions, development can be completed in as little as one week. Con-sidering that a single adult fly can lay several hundred eggs, the potential for a serious fly infestation is enormous. Some flies disperse many miles from their original breeding site. However, more often, the breeding area is nearby, such as a pile of manure-soaked straw,
a rotting potato beneath a cabinet or a poorly maintained dumpster behind a restaurant.
See Table 3. Important filth flies of urban environments.
Fly Management: SanitationSanitation is the single most important step in managing flies. Even small amounts of garbage or waste can support hundreds of developing flies. Fermenting organic matter under food preparation equipment, a neglected floor mop or a seldom cleaned floor drain can support a serious infestation of flies. Thus, to effectively manage flies, efforts must be made to find and eliminate the breeding source; otherwise, the problem is likely to continue regardless of the management methods attempted. Promptly removing waste ensures that if flies do begin breeding in the garbage, they will be removed before a new generation reaches the adult stage. Some other good sanitation practices include keep garbage cans and dumpsters clean and tightly covered.
Open sewage pits and wastes from canner-ies, feed mills and meat packing houses are sources of heavy fly breeding and can cause more problems in nearby residential areas. Adequate disposal methods should be avail-able at the plant, or holding facilities should be available so that wastes can periodically be transported to a sanitary landfill.
ExclusionAnother very important method of preventing fly problems in buildings is exclusion. Exte-rior doors and windows should be properly screened and kept closed whenever practical. Plastic strip curtains and air doors can be used to deny fly access in some situations.
TrapsOnce flies are inside a building, light traps can be used to capture winged adults. These traps usually employ ultraviolet (UV) light as an attractant and kill either by electrocution or entrapment on replaceable, glue-covered cardboard inserts. In order for these traps to be effective, they must be properly positioned along routes of fly entry and movement. They must also be installed at the proper height, which is ideally about 5 feet off the floor, and away from windows and other competing light sources. The glow of a light trap should not be visible from outside; otherwise, the trap will
Tips for Using Baits to Manage House-Infesting Ants
▪ Use fresh product and follow direc-tions carefully. Be sure to use the correct number of bait stations or materials to treat the infestation
▪ Make bait more effective by remov-ing or covering other food sources that compete with the baits attrac-tiveness
▪ Baits can be contaminated during handling. Never let hands that have touched cigarettes touch bait sta-tions because the odor is repellent. Wear gloves when applying baits
▪ Before and during baiting efforts, avoid using surface applications of long-acting contact insecticides -of-ten applied to manage cockroaches or to ant trails- that would prevent foraging worker ants from being able to reach the bait station
▪ Be patient for the baits to work. It may take at least 3 to 4 weeks to eliminate some colonies
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 643
Tabl
e 2.
Qui
ck re
fere
nce
guid
e to
coc
kroa
ches
iden
tific
atio
n an
d m
anag
emen
t.
Pest
Pest
iden
tific
atio
n/Li
fe C
ycle
Beha
vior
/Dam
age
Com
men
ts
Ger
man
coc
kroa
ch
Blat
tella
ger
man
ica
Size
: adu
lts a
re 1
/2 in
ch to
5/8
inch
Colo
r: ad
ults
are
ligh
t bro
wn
with
two
dark
str
ipes
ru
nnin
g le
ngth
wis
e al
ong
the
pron
otum
or s
hiel
d-lik
e ar
ea b
ehin
d th
e he
ad. T
he n
ymph
s ar
e sm
alle
r and
dar
ker
with
a ta
n st
ripe
dow
n th
e m
iddl
e of
the
back
. Eg
g ca
se: c
arrie
d un
til 2
4 ho
urs
befo
re h
atch
; usu
ally
co
ntai
ns b
etw
een
30 a
nd 4
0 eg
gsA
dult
long
evit
y: a
bout
180
day
sLi
fe c
ycle
: Ger
man
coc
kroa
ches
repr
oduc
e ve
ry ra
pidl
y w
hich
is o
ne re
ason
con
trol
can
be
diffi
cult.
At 7
6F,
deve
lopm
ent f
rom
egg
to a
dult
may
rang
e fr
om 3
6 to
21
5 da
ys w
ith a
n av
erag
e of
103
day
s. A
sin
gle
mat
ed
fem
ale
can
prod
uce
4 to
5 e
gg c
ases
and
an
infe
stat
ion
of
seve
ral t
hous
and
new
roac
hes.
Fora
ging
sit
es: k
itche
ns, b
athr
oom
s, an
d ea
ting
area
s. T
hey
ofte
n tr
avel
bet
wee
n ro
oms
or a
djoi
ning
ap
artm
ents
alo
ng u
tility
pip
es a
nd w
ires,
and
with
in w
all
void
s.H
arbo
rage
sit
es: P
refe
rred
hid
ing
plac
es in
clud
e cr
acks
and
cre
vice
s un
der s
inks
and
toile
ts; b
enea
th
refr
iger
ator
s, ic
e m
achi
nes,
dish
was
hers
, and
sto
ves;
ne
xt to
tras
h co
ntai
ners
; and
insi
de c
abin
ets
and
pant
ries.
Ger
man
coc
kroa
ches
als
o co
ngre
gate
in c
lock
s, m
icro
wav
e ov
ens,
and
othe
r ele
ctro
nic
equi
pmen
t. W
hen
popu
latio
ns a
re la
rge
or fo
od is
sca
rce,
they
can
be
foun
d in
bed
room
s, cl
oset
s an
d ot
her n
onfo
od a
reas
.
This
by
far t
he
mos
t com
mon
and
im
port
ant c
ockr
oach
sp
ecie
s fr
om th
e st
andp
oint
of p
ublic
he
alth
.
Brow
n-ba
nded
co
ckro
ach
Supe
lla lo
ngip
alpa
Am
eric
an co
ckro
ach
Perip
lane
ta a
mer
ican
a
Size
:1/2
inch
Colo
r: lig
ht b
row
n tw
o tr
ansv
erse
yel
low
ban
ds a
cros
s th
e ba
se o
f the
win
gs.
Egg
case
: pea
-siz
ed e
gg c
apsu
les
(10-
18 e
ggs)
glu
ed to
hi
dden
sur
face
s, su
ch a
s th
e un
ders
ides
of d
ress
ers
and
tabl
es; 7
0 da
ys to
hat
ch.
Food
/for
agin
g: fe
ed o
n st
arch
y m
ater
ials
and
may
be
foun
d an
ywhe
re in
a b
uild
ing.
H
arbo
rage
sit
es:
does
not
requ
ire th
e cl
ose
asso
ciat
ion
with
moi
stur
e, c
hara
cter
istic
of t
he G
erm
an c
ockr
oach
, an
d is
mor
e of
ten
foun
d in
hom
es a
nd a
part
men
ts th
an
in re
stau
rant
s an
d ot
her c
omm
erci
al fo
od-h
andl
ing
esta
blis
hmen
ts. I
n ho
mes
, bro
wn-
band
ed c
ockr
oach
es
are
com
mon
ly fo
und
in ro
oms
othe
r tha
n th
e ki
tche
n an
d ba
thro
om. P
refe
rred
loca
tions
incl
ude
uppe
r are
as
of c
eilin
gs, w
alls
, cab
inet
s, an
d cl
oset
s; b
ehin
d pi
ctur
e fr
ames
and
wal
l dec
orat
ions
; and
ben
eath
or i
nsid
e fu
rnitu
re.
Far l
ess
com
mon
th
an th
e G
erm
an
cock
roac
h, b
ut c
an b
e a
prob
lem
in h
omes
. Co
rrec
t ide
ntifi
catio
n is
impo
rtan
t bec
ause
it
has
mar
kedl
y di
ffere
nt h
idin
g pl
aces
an
d ha
bits
from
the
Ger
man
coc
kroa
ch.
Am
eric
an c
ockr
oach
Perip
lane
ta a
mer
ican
aSi
ze: a
dult
abou
t 1 1
/2 in
ches
Colo
r: re
ddis
h br
own
to b
row
n, w
ith a
pal
e ye
llow
ban
d ar
ound
the
edge
of t
he s
hiel
d be
hind
the
head
. Adu
lts
have
wel
l-dev
elop
ed w
ings
, but
sel
dom
fly.
Cer
ci lo
ng
and
poin
ted.
Nym
phs
are
smal
ler a
nd la
ck w
ings
, but
are
ot
herw
ise
sim
ilar t
o th
e ad
ults
. Li
fe c
ycle
: The
dev
elop
men
tal r
ate
of th
e A
mer
ican
co
ckro
ach
is m
uch
slow
er th
an th
e G
erm
an c
ockr
oach
, us
ually
requ
iring
mor
e th
an a
yea
r fro
m e
gg to
adu
lt.Eg
g ca
se: A
bout
15
eggs
per
cap
sule
; egg
cas
e de
posi
ted
on o
r nea
r foo
d; h
atch
es in
abo
ut 6
0 da
ys.
Food
/for
agin
g si
tes:
sw
eet,
star
chy
and
othe
r org
anic
m
ater
ial
Har
bora
ge s
ites
: Am
eric
an c
ockr
oach
es p
refe
r war
m,
dark
, and
moi
st a
reas
. The
y ar
e of
ten
foun
d ne
stin
g in
flo
or d
rain
s, su
mp
pum
ps, p
ipe
chas
es, a
nd la
undr
y ar
eas
in b
asem
ents
and
cra
wl s
pace
s. Th
ey a
lso
freq
uent
boi
ler
room
s, st
eam
hea
t tun
nels
, and
sew
ers.
Dur
ing
war
mer
m
onth
s, th
is c
ockr
oach
may
be
foun
d ou
tdoo
rs a
nd
arou
nd o
utbu
ildin
gs a
nd w
oodp
iles.
Larg
est c
ockr
oach
fo
und
in Te
nnes
see.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 644
Tabl
e 2.
Qui
ck re
fere
nce
guid
e to
coc
kroa
ches
iden
tific
atio
n an
d m
anag
emen
t.
Pest
Pest
iden
tific
atio
n/Li
fe C
ycle
Beha
vior
/Dam
age
Com
men
ts
Smok
ybro
wn
cock
roac
hPe
ripla
neta
fulig
inos
a
Size
: adu
lt ab
out 1
to1
1/2
inch
esCo
lor:
unifo
rm, v
ery
dark
bro
wn
to b
lack
; hea
d sh
ield
is a
so
lid, d
ark
colo
r.Li
fe c
ycle
: The
dev
elop
men
tal r
ate
of th
e sm
okyb
row
n co
ckro
ach
is m
uch
slow
er th
an th
e G
erm
an c
ockr
oach
, us
ually
requ
iring
abo
ut a
yea
r or m
ore
from
egg
to a
dult.
Egg
case
: Abo
ut 2
4 eg
gs p
er c
apsu
le; d
epos
ited
on
surf
aces
and
cam
oufla
ged
with
deb
ris fr
om e
nviro
nmen
t
Fora
ging
sit
es: N
ot a
par
ticul
arly
mob
ile s
peci
es, t
ends
to
retu
rn to
pre
ferr
ed h
arbo
rage
. Har
bora
ge s
ites:
in
moi
st, w
arm
and
dar
k pl
aces
like
tree
hole
s, m
ulch
es,
soffi
ts in
att
ics
with
poo
r ven
tilat
ion.
Nee
d ac
cess
to
wat
er e
very
thre
e da
ys o
r so.
Prim
arily
an
outd
oor p
est,
but w
hen
foun
d in
door
s ch
eck
loca
tions
with
a s
tabl
e re
lativ
e hu
mid
ity s
uch
as a
ttic
s.
Indo
or a
nd o
utdo
or
pest
icid
e ap
plic
atio
ns
ofte
n ne
eded
to
achi
eve
long
-ter
m
cont
rol.
Ori
enta
l coc
kroa
ch
Blat
ta o
rient
alis
Size
: 1 -
1 1
/4 in
ch. F
emal
es h
ave
very
sho
rt w
ing
pads
; m
ales
hav
e w
ings
that
abo
ut h
alf t
he a
bdom
en, b
ut
neve
r exc
eed
end
of a
bdom
enCo
lor:
shin
y bl
ack
or d
ark
brow
n,
Life
cyc
le: T
he e
ntire
life
cyc
le m
ay re
quire
one
to tw
o ye
ars.
Egg
case
: dep
osite
d in
moi
st p
lace
s; 1
2-16
egg
s/ca
se;
take
s ab
out 6
0 da
ys to
hat
ch.
Food
/for
agin
g si
tes:
dec
ayin
g or
gani
c m
atte
rH
arbo
rage
site
s: T
he O
rient
al c
ockr
oach
is o
ne o
f the
fil
thie
st c
ockr
oach
spe
cies
bec
ause
it c
omm
only
infe
sts
cool
, dar
k, d
amp
plac
es (e
.g.,
sew
ers
and
base
men
ts),
feed
ing
on g
arba
ge, h
uman
was
te, a
nd d
ecay
ing
orga
nic
mat
ter.
The
nym
phs
and
adul
ts a
re c
ompa
rativ
ely
slow
-m
ovin
g an
d ar
e ge
nera
lly fo
und
at g
roun
d le
vel.
They
of
ten
are
foun
d liv
ing
in fl
oor d
rain
s an
d su
mp
pum
ps.
Dur
ing
war
mer
mon
ths,
orie
ntal
coc
kroa
ches
als
o liv
e ou
tdoo
rs b
enea
th le
aves
and
pla
nt m
ulch
.
Slow
-mov
ing
roac
h.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 645
attract insects into the building when door-ways are open.
Bottle or jar traps are also useful for captur-ing adult flies. Bottle traps are especially useful for trapping fruit flies and phorid flies, also known as humpback flies, once the breeding source is eliminated. Potential breeding sites for these tiny flies include rotting fruits or veg-etables, spillage in trashcans or recycling bins, unsanitized floor drains, and food-soiled mops or cleaning rags.
Chemical ManagementIf sanitation, exclusion and trapping methods are not successful in managing the flies, then insecticides should be considered. However, regardless of how effective a treatment may ap-pear, unless the breeding source and/or point of entry into a structure is located and elimi-nated, the problem will continue. Moreover, because flies reproduce rapidly, they quickly develop resistance to most insecticides. There are two types of insecticide treatments that are used in fly management: non-residual sprays and residual sprays.
Non-Residual (Contact) SpraysTemporary management of adult flies can be achieved by applying synergized pyrethrins or short-residual synthetic pyrethroids such as resmethrin. While these insecticides quickly knock down adult flies, they provide no lasting effect and do not manage developing larvae. Application can be made with aerosol-type dispensers, ultra low volume (ULV) sprayers or fog-generating equipment. For optimum results indoors, the precise amount of material per cubic area specified on the label should be applied. When performing space treatments, the applicator should wear goggles and a respirator. He or she should also ensure that no people are present, and that any food, utensils or food preparation surfaces are covered and/or washed before reusing.
Residual SpraysResidual insecticides are sometimes useful in fly management, but only as a supplement to other methods already mentioned. Treatments should be applied as coarse, low-pressure sprays that are confined to surfaces where flies rest and are likely to absorb a lethal dose. These surfaces include areas around dumpsters and sun-exposed exterior walls adjacent to a doorway.
Parasitic, Biting and Stinging ArthropodsArthropods that bite or sting to defend them-selves or those that feed on the blood of people or domestic animals are serious, and some-times dangerous, pests. Bites or stings may result in localized, painful itching and swell-ing that, if scratched, may lead to a bacterial infection. Some arthropods transmit disease organisms through the wounds they cause. Some stinging and blood-feeding pests inject venoms capable of causing allergic reactions that can be fatal. Arthropods that feed on the blood of people and their pets include fleas, ticks, bed bugs, mosquitoes and some mites. Biting or stinging arthropods include wasps, hornets, yellowjackets and spiders.
FleasThe cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis (Figure 8), is the most common flea found on cats and dogs in Tennessee. These fleas are about 1/16 of an inch long and are reddish-brown. The body is flattened from the sides with backward pro-jecting spines so they can easily walk through animal hair. Parts of the legs are enlarged for jumping. This allows an adult flea to jump almost 200 times its height.
Flea bites are irritating, and they can also transmit several disease organisms to hu-mans. The organisms that cause plague and flea-borne typhus are transmitted to humans by fleas that have fed on infected rodents. Fortunately, these two diseases are seldom encountered in Tennessee. Cat fleas, however, are a medical concern because they are able to transmit dog tapeworm, Dipylidium caninum.
Fleas are obligate ectoparasites. This means that they must stay on or close to a host to survive. Cat flea hosts include cats, dogs, opossums, foxes, rats and other urban animals. Although adult fleas prefer to feed on dogs,
Fly Trap Jars
A simple jar trap for fruit or phorid flies can be made by placing a paper funnel into a jar, which is then baited with a few ounces of cider vinegar as an attractant.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 646
Tabl
e 3.
Impo
rtan
t filt
h fli
es o
f urb
an e
nvir
onm
ents
.
Fly
Iden
tify
ing
Char
acte
rist
ics
Hab
itat
Life
Cyc
leM
anag
emen
t
Hou
se fl
y
4 da
rk s
trip
es o
n th
orax
, 1/
4 in
ch lo
ngG
arba
ge, a
ll ty
pes
of w
aste
, pet
fe
ces
1-7
wee
ksSa
nita
tion,
exc
lusi
on, h
abita
t de
stru
ctio
n, re
sidu
al a
nd c
onta
ct s
pray
s, ba
its, t
raps
and
larv
icid
es.
Fles
h fli
es
2-3
times
larg
er th
an h
ouse
fli
es. B
lack
and
gra
y ch
ecke
red
patt
ern
on th
orax
Ani
mal
car
cass
es, w
aste
, man
ure,
ga
rbag
e2-
4 w
eeks
.Sa
nita
tion,
hab
itat d
estr
uctio
n, re
sidu
al
and
cont
act s
pray
s, an
d la
rvic
ides
.
Blow
flie
s
May
be 2
X si
ze o
f hou
se fl
y.
Met
allic
blu
e, g
reen
or b
lack
th
orax
.
Ani
mal
car
cass
es, w
aste
, man
ure,
ga
rbag
e2-
4 w
eeks
.Lo
cate
and
rem
ove
anim
als
carc
ass,
othe
r san
itatio
n, a
nd h
abita
t de
stru
ctio
n, re
sidu
al a
nd c
onta
ct s
pray
s.
Frui
t Flie
s
Smal
l flie
s. 1/
8 in
ch. E
yes
som
etim
es re
d, y
ello
wis
h-br
own
bodi
es.
Dec
ayin
g fr
uits
and
veg
etab
les,
bott
oms
of u
ncle
aned
gar
bage
ca
ns.
1-2
wee
ks.
Sani
tatio
n an
d ha
bita
t des
truc
tion,
tr
aps,
resi
dual
and
con
tact
spr
ays.
Phor
id fl
ies
(Hum
pbac
ked
flies
)Sm
all (
1/8
inch
). Si
mila
r to
frui
t fli
es in
siz
e, b
ut a
re b
lack
and
ha
ve h
umpb
acke
d th
orax
Dec
ayin
g ve
geta
ble
and
anim
al
mat
ter.
Dirt
y dr
ains
.1-
2 w
eeks
.Sa
nita
tion
and
habi
tat d
estr
uctio
n,
moi
stur
e co
ntro
l, re
sidu
al a
nd c
onta
ct
spra
ys.
Dra
in fl
ies
(Mot
h fli
es)
Smal
l (1/
8 in
ch).
Body
and
w
ings
cov
ered
with
hai
r. W
ing
vein
s pa
ralle
l.
Dec
ayin
g ve
geta
ble
and
anim
al
mat
ter i
n un
clea
ned
drai
ns.
2-3
wee
ks.
Sani
tatio
n, h
abita
t des
truc
tion
and
moi
stur
e co
ntro
l, re
sidu
al a
nd c
onta
ct
spra
ys.
Clus
ter F
lies
Rese
mbl
e ho
use
flies
, but
sl
ight
ly la
rger
; slu
ggis
h m
ovem
ent.
May
ove
rwin
ter i
n at
tics
and
wal
ls.
Para
sitic
on
eart
hwor
ms.
4-6
wee
ks.
Excl
usio
n su
ch a
s se
alin
g an
d ca
ulki
ng
arou
nd e
aves
, etc
. , re
sidu
al a
nd c
onta
ct
spra
ys.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 647
cats or other small animals, they will attack humans when pets are not available. Cat fleas do not develop very well on human blood and a population will soon die out if no preferred hosts are present.
Life CycleLike flies, fleas have an egg, larval, pupal and adult stage (Figure 8). Flea eggs, which are white, oval and 1/50 of an inch long, are laid on the pet. However, they soon roll off because the eggs lack any spines that would hold them to the pet’s hair. This explains why most fleas are found where the pet rests.
Adult flea feces, which contain partially digested blood, also drop off the pet. This partially digested fecal blood is seen as dark specks when a flea-infested animal is combed. After hatching from eggs, flea larvae feed on the partially digested blood and on other or-
ganic matter found in a house or yard. Larvae are usually hidden deep in carpet fibers, under furniture cushions and in other protected spots.
The small, white, wormlike larvae complete development and spin a pupal cocoon. Materi-als such as carpet fibers or grains of soil, which are present in the larval environment, are in-corporated into the cocoon. This camouflages the pupa and protects it from predators. Larvae are the most susceptible stage to drying. The cocoon is highly resistant to drying and insecticide penetration. Development contin-ues inside the cocoon where the pre-emergent adult can wait several weeks for a stimulus, which causes it to emerge. Such stimuli can in-clude pressure, vibration or heat, indicating the presence of a host. The female feed with their sucking mouthparts and mate on the host. Adults live from 4 to 25 or more days. During this time, a female may lay between 158 to at least 420 eggs.
Flea Management: VacuumingOne method of managing fleas is to vacuum them. Vacuuming areas frequented by pets provides many benefits to those stricken with fleas. Some of these benefits are:
▪ Removal of about 60 percent of the flea eggs and 27 percent of the larvae
▪ Removal of larval foods such as organic matter and fecal blood
▪ Stimulation of the adults to emerge from their cocoons. If not collected with the vacuum, the newly emerged adults will be exposed to insecticide applications
▪ Straightening of the carpet fibers so that if an insecticide is applied, it will penetrate to the carpet
After vacuuming, immediately dispose of the vacuum cleaner in an outside garbage can with a tight-fitting lid. Additionally, steam cleaning will kill most of the fleas.
Figure 8 A. Cat Flea Life Cycle
Figure 8 B. Cat Flea Life Cycle
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 648
Flea Management: Chemical Management
The following measures should be performed on the same day to maximize flea management success:
▪ Ensure the pet is treated. Adult fleas spend most of their life on the animal, not in the carpet
▪ Vacuum infested areas twice a week and prior to treatment. This will remove eggs, larvae, adults and organic matter
▪ Treat pet resting areas indoors and clean or remove pet bedding. A com-bination of an insect growth regula-tor and an adulticide may be the most efficient formulation to use
▪ Mow grass, keep weeds down and trim shrubs to expose flea eggs and larvae to lethal desiccation. If fleas are surviving outdoors, apply an ap-proved insecticide to infested areas
TicksTicks are external parasites of mammals, birds and reptiles that feed only on the blood of their hosts. They can be distinguished from insects and spiders because the head, thorax and abdomen are fused into a single, saclike body region. The nymphs and adults have four pairs of jointed legs and no antennae. Ticks are found walking on or attached to their hosts or in areas frequented by their hosts. These
areas include woodlands, weedy or brushy areas, lawns, dog kennels, and dog runs. Ticks frequently wait for a host on vegetation along trails and paths traveled by people or animals.
Life CycleAll of the common ticks of Tennessee have four life stages: egg, larva, nymph and adult (Figure 9). Each of the stages, other than the egg, requires a separate animal host to com-plete its development. All together, the life cycle of a tick may be 2 or 3 years long. Adult, engorged females can grow to be more than one-half inch.
Kinds of TicksThe American dog tick (Dermacentor variabi-lis) is a dark brown tick that can be identified by the randomly arranged silver streaks on the back of both the male and female (Figure 10). The immature stages feed primarily on rodents, rabbits, opossums, raccoons, etc., but never on humans. Adults are found on larger animals such as dogs, cattle and humans.
The lone star tick (Amblyomma americanum) is a reddish brown tick that is slightly smaller than the American dog tick. These ticks have long, large snouts and both sexes have pale markings on their backs. The adult female has a conspicuous white spot on the middle of her back that gives this species its common name. Unlike the American dog tick, all stages of this species will readily attack people. Adults and nymphs are present and searching for hosts as soon as the weather becomes warm in the spring. They decrease in numbers as the summer progresses and are less frequently encountered after early September. The larvae, known as seed ticks, are encountered in masses on vegetation and may result in hundreds of individual bites on one person. Wounds left by attachment of all stages result in discolored itchy spots that may take 2 weeks to heal. Larval masses are encountered from late July until a killing frost in the fall, but occur most frequently in August and September. Only those individuals that find a host and feed suc-cessfully will pass on to the next stage.
The brown dog tick (Rhipicephalus sanguin-eus) is uniformly dark reddish-brown, and it is similar in appearance to the American dog tick. However, it is smaller and does not have any light-colored markings on the back. This tick is known to attack dogs and other ani-
Figure 9. Tick Life Cycle
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 649
mals, but rarely humans. It is usually found in-side buildings where dogs live, such as houses, dog kennels and runs, but may sometimes be found on porches, in backyards or other shel-tered places frequented by dogs. It is usually found in the spring and summer.
Diseases Transmitted by Ticks in Tennessee
Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever is character-ized by fever, headaches, muscle aches, malaise and a rash that starts on the hands and feet. The American dog tick transmits the Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever (RMSF) organism in Tennessee. This tick attaches to humans most frequently in the spring and early summer. Fortunately, even in areas with high rates of RMSF, only 3 to 5 percent of adult ticks carry the organism. Results of a Tennessee survey indicate that American dog ticks are well distributed throughout the state.
Human Monocytic Ehrlichiosis, or HME, is a new disease. It is likely transmitted by the lone star tick. HME has many of the same symptoms as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, but it usually does not cause spots or a rash.
The organism that causes Lyme disease is transmitted by Ixodes scapularis, a tick that is rarely encountered in Tennessee. Lyme disease symptoms may include a characteristic bull’s-eye rash as well as fever, malaise, fatigue, headache, muscle aches and joint aches. Lyme disease is most often encountered in the New England states, the upper Midwest, mid-At-lantic states and California. For more informa-
tion and updates on Lyme disease in Ten-nessee, visit the Center for Disease Control’s (CDC) Lyme disease webpage. The address is listed in the resources section at the bottom of this chapter.
Removal of TicksThe only effective way to remove a tick at-tached to a person is with a pair of tweezers. Grasp the head region of the tick as close to the skin as possible. Apply firm, steady pres-sure to remove the embedded mouthparts. Treat as any other type of skin wound. Do not crush the removed ticks with either fingers or thumbnails. Do not attempt to remove ticks with nail polish, alcohol or lighted cigarettes.
Management of TicksOverall, a tick management program should include:
▪ Avoidance of infested areas ▪ Applying repellent before enter-
ing environments that harbor ticks ▪ Inspecting for ticks ▪ Modifying the environment so that
it is less conducive to tick survival ▪ If necessary, applying pesticides to
pets and areas frequented by pets ▪ Hiring a professional to apply pesti-
cides in the landscape beyond a bar-rier treatment of the structure
Nonchemical methods for reducing tick prob-lems include:
▪ Mowing the lawn and managing weeds ▪ Removing debris, wood piles or clut-
ter from around the house to dis-courage rodents from nesting
▪ Repairing entry points into the house to discourage pos-sible tick hosts from entering
▪ Sealing cracks and crevices, both indoors and out, to reduce hiding places for ticks
▪ Inspecting and cleaning pets and their bedding frequently. If bedding is in-fested, it should be cleaned or destroyed
Indoor treatment is needed if a pet is infested with brown dog ticks, although this is relatively rare. Brown dog ticks will feed on the pet and drop off to molt in the many cracks
Figure 10. Ticks
Top to Bottom:
American Dog Tick,
Brown Dog Tick and
Lone Star Tick
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 650
and crevices available in the home. These ticks are difficult to manage because they can survive several months without another blood meal. If brown dog ticks are found, frequently inspect and remove them from pets. It is also necessary to vacuum rugs, floor, furniture, baseboards and behind furniture. Insecticidal spray or dusts should be applied to cracks and crevices, such as along baseboards and mold-ing, around door and window frames, under-neath furniture, beneath the edges of carpet-ing, behind loose wallpaper, and in other tight spots.
Bed BugsThere are several species of bed bugs, all of which are parasites of warm-blooded animals. Until recently, the common bed bug, whose preferred host is humans, was rarely encoun-tered, presumably because of improvements in sanitation. However, bed bugs are becoming more common. Related species, such as the bat bug and the bird bug, prefer to feed on bats, birds and other wild hosts, but will also feed on humans if the opportunity arises or if the preferred host dies or leaves the roost. Adult bed bugs are about ¼ inch long and reddish brown, with oval, flattened bodies (Figure 11). Bed bugs prefer to hide in cracks and crevices during the daytime and come out to feed on the host’s blood at night, usually while the host is sleeping. Infestations are usually detected by the welts and irritation caused by the bites and the fecal smears and blood spots visible on pillowcases, sheets and mattresses. Heavy infestations of bed bugs are also accompanied by a distinct odor.
Management of Bed BugsTo manage bed bugs, caulk or otherwise repair all cracks and spaces behind baseboards and other areas of the house. Treat infested areas with a crack-and-crevice or void application of a dust or liquid insecticide registered for this purpose. Treat crevices of bed frames, base-boards, under edges of wall-to-wall carpeting, other wall/floor material interfaces, closets, wood paneling, the backside of wall-mounted items, behind mounted lights and ceiling fan fixtures, and other places that may harbor bed bugs. Avoid spray runoff if applying liquid insecticides onto surfaces and into cracks. Do not apply liquids to electrical components. Multi-dwelling structures and hotels require frequent inspections and perhaps repeated applications. If the infestation is localized in an apartment building or hotel, treat all units connected to the infested area.
Because of the safety risk involved with treating mattresses, sofas or other furniture that people contact, alternative methods may be employed. Research has suggested that steam cleaning and applying an insecticidal dust to suspected crevice and void harborages can be very effective in managing bed bug populations. A low-vapor, high-temperature (220 degrees F) steam applied to seams, tufts, button holes, crevices and folds of mattresses, box springs, sofas, love seats, chairs, and other similar furniture should kill all eggs, nymphs and adult bed bugs contacted. Vacuuming with a crevice tool along edges of the beds, mattresses, etc. can also help reduce bed bug populations.
MosquitoesMosquitoes have done more harm to human health and well-being than any other insect group. They are the only natural carriers of organisms that cause debilitating diseases such as malaria, yellow fever, dengue and several types of viral encephalitis. Mosquitoes can also transmit filarial diseases, which are caused by parasitic worms, to humans and animals. The viral encephalitides and dog heartworm are the only diseases that are a perennial threat in Tennessee. The mosquito’s annoying biting habits often make it a nuisance around the home, and in parks and other recreational areas. Fortunately, most mosquito species feed on animals other than humans. However,
Figure 11. Bed Bug
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 651
some of these species can be pests of pets and farm animals.
County Mosquito Control Programs
Unfortunately, county health and other de-partmental personnel often receive pressure from their clientele, and hence their admin-istrative supervisors, to initiate a mosquito management program based on adulticides as the sole management component; this is usually ineffective. Fortunately, there are some management strategies that have proven to be effective. These strategies are discussed in the mosquito management section below.
Mosquito Management by Homeowners
While the chances of Tennesseans contracting West Nile Virus and other mosquito-borne vi-ruses are slight, mosquitoes are still a nuisance and can reduce people’s participation in out-door activities. Unfortunately, there is no easy solution for controlling mosquitos. Most con-tainer mosquitoes (Figure 12) only fly a block or so, but some temporary pool breeders may fly 15 to 20 miles. Many species of mosquitoes are active only at night, although some bite during the daytime. When they are not active, adult mosquitoes tend to seek protection in quiet areas with high humidity. Resting sites for adult mosquitoes include shrubs, wooded areas and similar dense vegetation, drainage ditches, sewers or under the eaves of buildings.
Countless products will claim ease of use and effectiveness for killing or deterring mosquitoes, but few have appreciable value in lessening the annoyance and incidence of bites. Unlike most insects encountered around homes, mosquitoes are pervasive outdoor pests and there are limits to what can be done to minimize their abundance. Options for home-owners are listed below.
Larval ManagementThe most effective way to manage mosquitoes is to eliminate larval sites and/or standing wa-ter. Mosquitoes need quiet, non-flowing water for their development. The larvae and pupae are confined to water. Eliminating sources of standing water, such as swamps and ditches, may require a community-wide effort and will require permits from Tennessee Wildlife Resource Agency (TWRA). Nonetheless, homeowners can take steps to prevent mosqui-toes from breeding on their property:
▪ Dispose of old tires, buckets, alu-minum cans, plastic sheeting or other refuse that can hold water
▪ Empty accumulated water from trash-cans, boats, wheelbarrows, pet dishes and flowerpot bottoms, and if pos-sible, turn them over when not in use
▪ Clean debris from rain gutters and unclog obstructed down spouts-clogged or damaged rain gutters are one of the most overlooked mos-quito breeding sites around homes
Certifications needed for a Mosquito Abatement Program
If county personnel have the funding needed to conduct a com-plete mosquito abatement program, either of the following certi-fications or licenses is needed:
▪ Category 8 certification-To apply pesticides for mosquito management on public lands and waters
▪ If the county would like to hire someone to perform this duty, the commercial applicator needs to be certified in Category 8 and working under the supervision of someone licensed in PHM (Public Health Control - Mosquito), only a small number of professionals are licensed in PHM in Ten-nessee
Figure 12. Aedes albopictus, the Asian Tiger Mosquito
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 652
▪ Change water in birdbaths and wad-ing pools at least once a week, and keep swimming pools clean, chlori-nated or covered when not in use
▪ Aerate ornamental pools and stock them with mosquito-eating fish
▪ Fill or drain ditches, swampy areas and other soil depressions, and remove, drain or fill tree holes and stumps with mortar or sand to prevent water accumulation
▪ Eliminate standing water and seepage around animal watering troughs, cisterns and septic tanks- be sure cistern screens are intact and access covers fit tightly
▪ Water landscape and, when possible, allow water to drain before adding more
▪ Before modifying any wetlands, con-tact your local TWRA representative
Use of a mosquito larvicide may be ben-eficial when it is impractical to eliminate a breeding site. Larvicides are insecticides used to manage immature mosquitoes before they have a chance to develop into biting adults. Larval mosquitoes are confined to water, mak-ing them easier to locate than the adults. Most larvicides sold to homeowners contain either the ingredient methoprene or the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti). Neither active ingredient is harmful to fish, water-fowl, pets or humans when used according to label directions. Homeowners can purchase mosquito larvicides at hardware, discount and some pet stores.
Another method of larval management is using LarvaSonicTM. While preparing for a science project, a young boy named Michael Nyber discovered LarvaSonicTM. LarvaSonicTM
kills larvae by transmitting sound into water. This causes the mosquito larval air bladder to absorb the energy, which causes a rupture in the membrane. The rupture then causes bubble(s) to form that injure internal organs and cause immediate death of the larva.
Adult ManagementAdult mosquitoes prefer to rest in moist, quiet, shaded areas such as dense vegetation during the daytime. Consequently, homeown-ers should remove tall weeds and overgrown vegetation from their yards. To further reduce intolerable levels of adult mosquitoes, insec-ticides can be applied to shrubs, hedges and
other shaded areas, such as under decks and along foundations. Some lawn and garden insecticides containing pyrethroids are effec-tive at management, but they will need to be periodically reapplied. Homeowners may wish to enlist the services of a professional pest management firm to manage adult mosquitoes.
ExclusionMosquitoes can be kept out of homes by se-curely screening windows, doors and porches. The occasional mosquito found indoors can be eliminated with a fly swatter. Aerosol-type insecticides labeled for mosquitoes, gnats and other flying insects seldom provide much relief at the dosages applied by homeowners.
Topically Applied RepellentsRepellents will help prevent mosquito bites when outdoors. The most effective mosquito repellents contain the active ingredient diethyl toluamide (DEET). Higher percentages of DEET in the ingredients provide longer pro-tection. The American Academy of Pediatrics (AAP) Committee on Environmental Health has recently updated their recommendation for use of DEET products on children, citing: Insect repellents containing DEET (N,N-di-ethyl-m-toluamide, also known as N,N-dieth-yl-3-methylbenzamide) with a concentration of 10% appear to be as safe as products with a concentration of 30% when used according to the directions on the product labels.
On April 22, 2005 the CDC added pi-caridin and oil of lemon eucalyptus as recom-mended mosquito repellents. When applying any type of mosquito repellant, always read and follow the directions on the container. Mosquito repellent should not be applied to the hands of young children, and treated skin should be washed with soap and water after returning indoors.
Other Management PossibilitiesMany consumer products claim to attract, re-pel, capture or kill mosquitoes. Electrocuting devices, or “bug zappers,” use ultraviolet light as an attractant and are generally ineffective in reducing outdoor populations of mosquitoes and their biting activity. Studies indicate that mosquitoes make up only a tiny percentage of the insects captured in such traps. The ma-jority are moths, beetles and other harmless night-flying insects.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 653
Other types of mosquito traps utilize carbon dioxide, warmth, light and vari-ous chemicals as attractants. These products claim to capture tremendous numbers of adult mosquitoes and can be quite expensive. The effectiveness of mosquito traps for reducing the number of mosquito bites in an area is a bit controversial due to the numerous variables involved with the utilization of mosquito traps. These variables include, but are not limited to, the trap itself, the location of the trap, the sea-son, the species of mosquito and the proximity of the mosquitoes to the trap. Additionally, some people believe that while they do capture a lot of mosquitoes, mosquito traps also attract more mosquitoes to the area.
Citronella oil is another popular choice for mosquito management, and it does have mos-quito-repelling properties. For maximum ef-fect, multiple candles should be placed within a few feet of where people are sitting. Thus, a single candle located at the center or edge of a picnic blanket probably will not provide much benefit other than atmosphere.
Bats and certain types of birds, such as purple martins, are often cited as effective natural agents for managing outdoor mosqui-
toes. Conservation groups and nature maga-zines often suggest building bat and bird-houses on one’s property to promote nesting and to protect against mosquitoes. Although insectivorous bats and birds do eat mosquitoes, they make up only a very small portion of their natural diet. Much like the mechanical “bug zappers,” bats and birds capture all manner of other flying insects also. Therefore, efforts to colonize and conserve these animals should not be done with the primary intent of dimin-ishing biting mosquitoes.
Parasitic MitesParasitic mites (Figure 13) that occasionally infest buildings are usually associated with wild or domestic birds or rodents. Bird and rodent mites are normally about the size of a period at the end of a sentence and live on the host or in their nests. When the animal dies or abandons the nest, these mites will migrate to other areas of the structure. Other mites that may attack people are chiggers and human itch mites, which are also known as scabies.
Management of Parasitic MitesThe first step in managing bird or rodent mites is to remove the host animals and their nesting sites. Bird mites may move out of a nest after birds have fledged. Often, the nests will be found in the attic, around the eaves and rafters, in the gutters, or in the chimney. After nests are removed, the areas adjacent to the nest should be sprayed or dusted with a residual insecticide. Space or ULV treatments with non-residual materials, such as synergized pyrethrins, can be used in conjunction with re-sidual sprays. A vacuum cleaner or moistened cloth can be used to eliminate mites crawling on open surfaces.
Wasps, Hornets and YellowjacketsWasp, hornet and yellowjacket stings are a serious health threat to humans and animals. Hundreds of people in the United States die each year from allergic reactions to the venom of these insects. Although the workers forag-ing away from the nest are seldom aggressive, nests should be eliminated with great care and in manners discussed below. Folk remedies, such as dousing nests with gasoline or a garden
Figure 13. Chigger, Scabies and Bird or Rodent Mite
From Left to Right: Chigger, Scabies and Bird or Rodent Mite.
Mosquito-Repellent Plants
Mosquito-repellent plants such as garlic and other oft-advertised botanical prod-ucts, are generally ineffective at deter-ring mosquitoes.
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hose, seldom work. In fact, these methods can be dangerous and result in multiple stings.
Types of Wasps and Management TechniquesPaper WaspsPaper wasps, as well as hornets and yellow-jackets, construct nests of a paper-like mate-rial containing finely chewed wood fragments and salivary secretions of the wasps. Paper wasps typically build their umbrella-shaped
nests under eaves and ledges. These brownish wasps are not as aggressive as yellowjackets or hornets and can be eliminated rather easily with an aerosol wasp and hornet spray. After treatment, wait a day to ensure that the colony is destroyed, then scrape or knock down the nest. This will prevent secondary problems with carpet beetles and other insects.
Hornets and Yellowjackets.Hornets are far more difficult and dangerous to manage than paper wasps. The European hornet, Vespa cabro, is the only true hornet in Tennessee. Bald-faced hornet nests resemble a large, grey, bloated football, which typically is attached to a tree, bush or side of a building. European hornets build a brown carbon nest. Hornet nests may contain thousands of adult wasps, which are extremely aggressive when disturbed. The nests are often located out of reach.
Yellowjackets (Figure 14) are often consid-ered the most dangerous stinging insects in the United States. They tend to be unpredictable and usually will sting if the nest is disturbed. Yellowjackets form annual colonies in Tennes-see. Fall-mated queens overwinter under bark and in other sheltered locations. In the spring, the queens emerge and construct a small paper nest in which they lay their eggs. The queen feeds the larvae and in about a month, the larvae emerge as sterile adult females called workers. The newly emerged workers assume all nest activities except egg laying. Thereafter, the colony grows rapidly, containing up to 4,000 workers by the end of the summer. New males and queens are produced in late summer to early fall. After mating, the colony dies off and the newly fertilized queens seek out shel-tered sites for overwintering. Abandoned nests are not reused and soon disintegrate. Yellow-jacket nests are often located underground in old rodent burrows, beneath rocks or landscape timbers, in walls, in attics, in crawlspaces, and behind the siding of buildings.
Treat bald-faced hornet and yellowjacket nests in the spring and at night when most wasps are within the nest and the colony is less active. A full wasp suit, sealed at the wrists, ankles and collar, should be worn. Apply an aerosol-type wasp and hornet spray or dust formulation directly into the nest opening. Hornet nests have a single opening, usually toward the bottom, where the hornets enter
Wasps, Hornets and Yellowjackets
Wasps, hornets and yellowjackets are more dangerous and unpredictable than honeybees.
Figure 14. Adult Yellowjacket
Figure 15. Black Widow Adult Female
Black widow adult female with red hourglass mark on the un-derside of the abdomen. Immatures and males may have red dots on the upper abdomen
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and exit. It is critical that the paper envelope of the nest is not broken during treatment. If this occurs, the irritated wasps will scatter in all directions, causing even greater prob-lems. Following treatment, wait at least a day before removing the nest to ensure that all of the wasps are killed. If hornets continue to be observed, the application may need to be repeated. European hornets are active at night and are attracted to lights. The best time to treat these colonies is just before sunrise, but while it is still dark. If the nest is located away from frequently used areas, another option is to wait and do nothing. In Tennessee, wasp, hornet and yellowjacket colonies die naturally after the weather turns cold and the paper car-ton disintegrates over the winter months. Only fall-mated queens survive the winter.
Foraging YellowjacketsLate in the year, feeding preferences shift in favor of available sources of sugar including fruits, ice cream, soft drinks, beer or other sweets. The persistent foraging of yellowjackets at picnics and other outdoor activities produces many calls from homeowners and businesses wanting to know what can be done to allevi-ate the problem. If nests can not be found and treated, minimize attractive food sources. Several ways to minimize attractive food sources are:
▪ When eating outdoors, keep food and beverages covered
▪ Clean up spills and leftovers promptly ▪ Equip trashcans with tight-fitting,
preferably self-closing, lids ▪ Whenever possible, locate trash cans
and dumpsters away from serving tables, loading dock doors and other entrances
▪ Equip trashcans with a plastic liner- empty and clean them frequently
▪ Maintain high levels of sanita-tion earlier in the summer- this will make areas less attractive to yel-lowjackets later in the year
Combined with sanitation, avoidance is the best strategy for managing yellowjacks. People should resist the temptation to swat at yellowjackets and be careful when drinking from beverage cans that may contain foraging individuals.
Although only of marginal benefit, traps are available that catch impressive numbers of yellowjackets when properly baited and positioned. Business establishments such as outdoor cafes may find these traps worthwhile when used with other approaches. In addition, Braunschweiger liverwurst spread combined with jelly has been an effective attractant.
Allergic ReactionsWasp, hornet and yellowjacket stings can be life-threatening to persons who are allergic to the venom. People who develop hives, dif-ficulty breathing or swallowing, wheezing, or similar symptoms of allergic reaction should seek medical attention immediately after being stung. Itching, pain and localized swelling can be somewhat reduced with antihistamines and a cold compress.
SpidersMany different kinds of spiders live in and around buildings. Some, such as garden and cellar spiders, construct webs to help entrap their prey. Others, including the wolf spiders, are free-roaming and make no webs. Most spiders are harmless and, in fact, are beneficial because they prey upon flies, crickets and other insects. Spiders will generally not attempt to bite humans unless held or accidentally trapped. Moreover, the majority of spiders have fangs too small or too weak to puncture human skin. Of the hundreds of species found in Tennessee, the black widow and brown recluse are considered the most dangerous. Fortunately, they have markings that can be used to distinguish them from other non-threatening species.
Types of Dangerous SpidersBlack Widow SpiderOf the spiders capable of inflicting a poison-ous bite, black widows are the most notori-ous. The female is about 2-inches-long, shiny, black and usually has a red hourglass mark on the underside of the abdomen (Figure 15). In some varieties, the hourglass mark may be reduced to two separate spots. Spiderlings and male spiders are smaller than females and have several red dots on the upper side of the abdomen.
Black widow spiders belong to the cobweb spider family and spin loosely organized trap
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webs. The webs are usually found outdoors under objects such as rocks and ground trash. They may also be found under an overhanging embankment. Black widow spiders are timid and will only bite in response to being injured. People are usually bitten when they reach under furniture or lift objects under which a spider is hiding.
Black widow venom is a nerve toxin and its effects are rapid. The victim suffers painful rigidity of the abdomen and usually a tightness of the chest. Blood pressure and body tempera-ture may rise, and sweating, localized swelling and a feeling of nausea may occur. In about 5 percent of the bite cases, the victim may go into convulsions in 14 to 32 hours and may die if not given medical attention. First aid for black widow spider bites involves cleans-ing the wound and applying ice packs to slow absorption of the venom. Victims should seek medical attention promptly. An anti-venom is also available for severe cases.
Management of Black WidowsRemove trash, old boxes, piles of lumber, old rubble piles and other unwanted items from under or around houses and outbuildings. Do not go barefoot or handle firewood without gloves. Install screens on doors and windows to prevent entry. Seal or caulk cracks and crevices where spiders can enter the house. Wash off the outside of the house or building, especially around window wells and other un-disturbed places where webs are built. Spiders
are fragile and easily damaged, so sweeping with a stiff broom, or web-removing device such as the WebsterTM will remove webbing and usually kill the spiders.
Because black widow spiders spend most of the time in or on webbing, thorough applica-tions of insecticides that contact spiders in their webs cause a quick reduction in popula-tion. Residual crack-and-crevice sprays applied where spiders can hide and enter buildings are also helpful. Outdoors, spray around the perimeter of buildings using formulations that will not damage plants and treat under patios and decks if the house is of pier-and-beam construction.
Brown RecluseThe brown recluse spider (Figure 16) is one of the most feared and poisonous spiders in Tennessee. It can be found in every county in Tennessee, with the possible exception of a few extreme eastern counties. Most reported bites occur when putting on old clothing in which the spider is hiding or when rolling over on a spider in bed. The brown recluse spider lives up to its name. Most people living in proximity to the spider will never see it, nor be bitten by it.
The brown recluse, Loxosceles reclusa, is a medium-sized spider. The adult body ranges from 1/8 to under 1/4 inch. The legs span an area roughly the size of a quarter to a half-dol-lar. The color of the brown recluse varies from a light yellowish brown to a dark reddish or chocolate brown, but most are light to medium brown. The second pair of legs is longer than the remaining pairs in both sexes. A violin-shaped marking is present on the carapace, which is the top part of the body directly above the legs. Three pairs of eyes are arranged in a semicircle. Since most other spiders have eight eyes, this feature alone can eliminate many specimens suspected of being a brown recluse spider.
Brown recluse spiders prefer sheltered areas with low moisture levels. They have been found under loose bark, in hollow logs and under stones. In homes, they tend to prefer darkened storage areas in closets, garages, basements, attics, cupboards and other seldom disturbed and sheltered places.
Brown recluse spiders feed on a variety of insects and other arthropods. The spider is alerted to the presence of prey by web vibra-
Figure 16. Brown Recluse Spider
Brown recluse spider with a fiddle-shaped marking on the ceph-alothorax and a second pair of legs longer than the other.Inset: 3 Pairs of eyes in a semicircular arrangement
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tions caused by passing prey and may forage short distances from the web at night.
Often initially painless, the bite wound starts with a central pimple and produces an irregular red reaction in 6 to 12 hours. This reaction is followed by blister formation and/or skin death. The resultant skin ulcer heals slowly and may require skin grafts or flaps to reconstruct the defect. Case reports of blood abnormalities, kidney failure or death have been reported.
ManagementSanitationBecause the brown recluse spider can live for months without food or water, eliminating the insects on which the spider feeds is not an effective means of management. However, removing the preferred habitat can reduce population numbers drastically.
MonitoringUse monitoring traps, often called sticky traps or mouse-control glue boards, throughout the home to determine the location and abundance of spiders. Monitoring traps also help reduce brown recluse spider populations. Traps should be placed along walls or other edges in areas
such as behind toilets, under sinks and bath-tubs, under pieces of furniture, on closet floors, on closet shelves, on exposed sill plates, in crawl spaces and basements, near stored items in garages and attics-especially around boxes, near openings of light fixtures, and around vents in attics. Do not skimp on monitoring traps. They can be fairly inexpensive, so use plenty throughout the structure.
Insecticide ApplicationsPrior to insecticide applications, vacuum ex-posed spiders and their webs. In addition, pay special attention to:
▪ Cracks and voids: Because brown recluse spiders are secretive, insecticide applications are best made to the places where they may be hiding. These areas include cracks and voids in enclosed areas. Cracks and voids are best treated with dusts that last along time and will coat the surface of the crack or void.
▪ Spot treatments: Spot treatments of liquid residual insecticides to areas where spiders may crawl are most effective when combined with crack-and-void treatment. Using only spot treatments will usually result in poor control.
▪ Space treatments: Although space treat-ments with pyrethrins or resmethrins are effective against flying insects, when used for brown recluse management they may flush the spiders from their hid-ing places and onto surfaces that have been treated with residual insecticides.
▪ Exterior treatments: Removing harbor-age sites will reduce spider populations outdoors. Cracks in exterior walls should be treated with an insecticidal dust as mentioned above and then sealed. A great deal of effort is needed to effec-tively manage brown recluse spiders. Treatments applied for control will probably make the spiders more active. Therefore, it is imperative that dwellers be advised on strategies to avoid bites.
Avoiding Bites
Most bites occur when the spider is pressed against the skin inside clothing or when rolled on in bed. To minimize bites in homes where brown recluse spi-ders are present:
▪ Store clothing in sealed plastic bags or storage boxes
▪ Store shoes in plastic shoeboxes ▪ Shake clothing and shoes before
wearing ▪ Move beds away from walls or
curtains ▪ Place glue boards under bedposts ▪ Remove bed skirts from box springs ▪ Do not use bedspreads that touch
or come close to the floor ▪ Inspect bedding before climbing
into bed
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Fabric PestsFabric pests include insects that feed on natu-ral fibers, synthetics and animal by-products. They damage clothing, upholstery, carpeting, draperies and other fabrics. Some of these pests are able to digest the animal protein, keratin, and therefore, feed on hides, furs, hair, feathers, animal horns, preserved insects
and other museum specimens. Several fabric pests are also important stored-product pests. These include black carpet beetles, silverfish and firebrats.
Four orders of insects have species consid-ered to be fabric pests: the Coleoptera (carpet beetles), the Lepidoptera (clothes and webbing moths), the Thysanura (silverfish and bristle-tails), and the Orthoptera (crickets). Carpet beetles and clothes moths are discussed here.
Carpet BeetlesCarpet beetles feed on animal and plant sub-stances such as wool, fur, feathers, hair, hides, horns, silk and bone, as well as on cereals, cake mixes, red pepper, rye meal and flour. Other substances that carpet beetles feed on include powdered milk, dog and cat food, leather, bookbindings, dead insects, cotton, linen, and rayon when stained with spilled food or animal excreta. The larvae cause the damage. Adult beetles fly readily and may feed outdoors on flower pollen. The two most common species of carpet beetles, the black carpet beetle and the varied carpet beetle, found in Tennessee are discussed here.
IdentificationAdult black carpet beetles (Figure 17) are oval and shiny black with brownish legs. They vary in body length from 1/8 to 3/16 inch. Lar-vae are golden to dark brown and are about 2-inches-long, with the body resembling an elongated carrot or cigar with a long brush of bristles at the tail end.
Adult varied carpet beetles are about 1/10 to 1/8 inch long and are nearly round (Figure 18). The top body surface is usually gray with a mixture of white, brown and yellow scales and irregular black crossbands. The bottom surface has long, gray-yellow scales. Larvae are about ¼ inch long and are light to dark brown. The body is wider and broader at the rear than the front.
Life Cycle and HabitsAll carpet beetles pass through the egg, larval, pupal and adult stages. Adults fly readily and, during warm, sunny days, feed outdoors on the flower pollen of spirea, crepe myrtle and buckwheat. Depending on the species, each female can lay at least 100 white eggs, which hatch in 8 to 15 days. Eggs laid indoors occur in lint accumulations near the food source, in
Figure 17. Black Carpeet Beetle Adult and Larva
A. Adult Black Carpet Beetle
B. Black Carpet Beetle Larva
Figure 18. Varied Carpet Beetle
A. Adult Varied Carpet Beetle
B. Varied Carpet Beetle Larva
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air ducts, under heavy furniture, underneath baseboards, etc. After hatching, larvae feed, avoid light and molt several times as they develop. Depending on food and temperature, the larvae may spend 60 days to a year feeding. Their life cycle is shorter in warm rooms than in an unheated portion of the house during the winter. In the spring, the pupae develop into new adults. Usually there are three to four generations per year, except for the black or varied carpet beetle, which may only have one generation per year.
Clothes MothsClothes moth larvae feed on wool, feathers, fur, hair, leather, lint, dust and paper. Occa-sionally, they will also feed on cotton, linen, silk and synthetic fibers. They are especially damaging to fabric stained with beverages, urine and oil from hair and sweat. Most dam-age is done to articles left undisturbed for a long time, such as carpets under heavy fur-niture and clothing in storage. Three clothes moths encountered in Tennessee are: webbing clothes moth, Tineola bisselliella (Hummel); casemaking clothes moth, Tinea pellio-nella Linnaeus; and carpet or tapestry moth, Trichophaga tapetzella (Linnaeus).
IdentificationAdult webbing clothes moths have a wing-spread of about 2 inches. The buff-colored moth with a satiny sheen is about ¼ inch long with folded wings. Hairs on the head are upright and reddish-gold. Eggs are oval, ivory and about 1/24 inch long. Larvae are shiny, creamy white with a brown head, are up to 2 inches long, spin long threads and construct tunnels of silk.
Adult casemaking clothes moths have a 2-inch wingspread. Forewings are yellowish-brown, and there are three distinct, dark dots on each wing. Hind wings are smaller, lighter and fringed with hair and scales. Eggs are whitish and larvae are opaque-white with brown heads. The larva spins a small silken case around itself and carries it while feeding.
Adult carpet or tapestry moths are larger than webbing or casemaking clothes moths. They are 1/3 to 5/12 inches long with a 3/4-inch wingspread. Adults have white heads, the first third of the front wings are black and the lower two-thirds are creamy white. Hind
wings are pale gray. Larvae are small, creamy white caterpillars with dark heads.
Life Cycle and HabitsClothes moths rarely fly to light at night and instead prefer darkness. Any clothes moths fluttering around the house are probably males, as females travel by either running or hop-ping, especially webbing clothes moth females. Larvae prefer to feed on soiled material, spin-ning silken mats or tunnels and incorporating textile fragments and bits of feces into the construction. The pupal case is silk with bits of fiber and excrement attached to the outside. The life cycle is about 65 to 90 days.
The casemaking clothes moth is less com-mon than the webbing clothes moth. Larvae spin a small silken case around themselves as they feed. This cigar-shaped case enlarges as the larva grows. When the larva crawls, its head and thorax and three pairs of legs outside the case drag it along. It does not spin a web of silk over the food material, but eats clean-cut holes, not usually in one spot. There are about two generations per year.
Adult tapestry moths are rarely found. Fe-males lay 60 to 100 eggs in a lifetime, and the larva develops in about 3 months as it builds silken tubes or burrows through infested mate-rials such as hair-stuffed furniture, tapestries, old carpets, furs and feathers.
ManagementInspectionsLocate the source of the infestation before treatment. If possible, remove the source, place it in a sealable plastic bag and discard it in an outdoor garbage pail. Carpet beetle larvae prefer to feed in dark, protected places. Use a flashlight and nail file to check lint under baseboards, in and under upholstered furniture, under registers in air ducts, stuffed animals, stored cereals, bird nests under eaves, wasp nests in attics, woolens, carpets, clothes closets, furs, etc. Cast skins, which are shed during molting, may be more abundant than larvae. Adult carpet beetles flying around windows may help in locating the infestations. To help prevent carpet beetles from establish-ing themselves in homes, remove adult carpet beetles from flowers before the flowers are brought into the house. Adult moths do not feed in fabrics, but may be seen in darkened corners at night.
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PreventionGood housekeeping is critical in prevent-ing or managing clothes moth and carpet beetle damage. Regularly use a strong suction vacuum cleaner with proper attachments to remove lint, hair and dust from floor cracks, baseboards, air ducts, draperies, furniture, car-pets, molding and other hard-to-reach places. Periodically brush, air outside or dry-clean furs, woolens, blankets, etc. Destroy untreated, worthless animal skins, valueless insect collec-tions, old woolen rags and old clothing. Keep closets and dresser drawers clean. Regularly clean rugs where they fit close to the base-boards and under the quarter round. Launder and dry-clean clothes and other items before storage. Sunlight and wind reduce larval dam-age. Therefore, sun, brush and expose clothing to the weather.
Typically, cedar-lined closets do not seal sufficiently to retain cedar oil and are not very effective in managing clothes moths. Cedar chests may be slightly more effective because they seal better; however, the oil of cedar still evaporates. Any box or plastic bag that is tight and can be sealed is a good storage container. Place garments in containers and add naphtha-lene flakes interspersed between sheets of non-staining paper. Be sure that all cloth goods are dry-cleaned, washed, pressed with a hot iron, sunned or brushed prior to storage. Fur stor-age in cold vaults is effective. Mothproofing when woolens are manufactured may provide long-term effectiveness; however, treatments at dry-cleaners are less permanent and need to be renewed regularly. Frequent use of woolens and other animal fiber clothing almost assures no damage from clothes moth larvae.
InsecticidesInsecticides should be sprayed where insects crawl and hide, but before spraying, thor-oughly clean rugs, rug pads, carpets and under heavy furniture. Apply sprays to the edges of wall-to-wall carpeting in closets, corners, cracks, baseboards, molding and other hiding places.
Antique upholstered furniture and pillows stuffed with horsehairs or similar material may require fumigation by a pest management pro-fessional, as surface sprays will not be effective. Fumigation requires certification in Category 7 and supervision by a person licensed to fumi-gate (FUM). Alternative methods of manage-
ment, such as removing oxygen from a closed container to kill insects, are being explored. See the pesticide label for further precautions pertaining to pesticide use.
Stored-Product PestsMany species of pests infest and damage stored cereals, grains, nuts, dried fruit and oth-er food products. These include birds, rodents, fungi and other microorganisms, mites, and certain insects such as weevils, beetles, moths, silverfish and firebrats. Stored-product pests are widespread and cause serious economic losses to grain producers, food processors and consumers. They attack stored products on farms and in processing plants, warehouses, grocery stores, restaurants, homes and virtu-ally any other location where food is stored or prepared.
Several species of beetles, weevils and moths are common stored-product insects. Descriptions of some of these can be found in Table 4. Although the black carpet beetle is a fabric pest, which is described in the previous chapter, it is also a widespread stored-products pest that feeds on a large variety of dried foods including beans, peas, corn, wheat, rice and many types of seeds.
Moth larvae infesting stored-food products may be confused with beetle or weevil larvae because of their wormlike shape. However, only the moth’s larval stage causes damage. A telltale sign of infestation is the appearance of small to medium-sized moths in food contain-ers and packaging as well as the appearance of moths flying around or clinging to walls in a room or storage area.
Management of Stored-Product Pests
The following management recommendations for stored-product pests are for the general public. The Category 7 pesticide certification training manual and the Extension Redbook recommendations for professionals should be consulted for questions from commercial pesti-cide applicators. To prevent infestations:
▪ Inspect stored products periodically ▪ Practice good sanitation ▪ Use older products first so none re-
main in storage indefinitely
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▪ Adequately ventilate to prevent mois-ture buildup in storage areas
▪ Use insect-proof packages or stor-age procedures wherever possible
▪ Pheromone traps can indicate the presence of pests and are available for Indianmeal moth, saw-toothed grain beetle, confused and red flour beetle, cigarette beetle, drugstore beetle, clothes moths and others
Once pests are found: ▪ Locate the pest’s food
source and discard it ▪ Where appropriate, some prod-
ucts can be frozen to protect them from insect damage
▪ Place grains, flours, nuts and other sus-ceptible stored products in insect-proof containers when they are brought home
▪ Pheromone traps can indicate the pres-ence of pests and may provide control without insecticides when popula-tions are low and the pests confined
▪ Vacuum cracks and crevices and wipe down the pantry to re-move pests and food sources
In most cases, pesticides will not need to be applied. If an insecticide application is desired, make sure the pesticide is registered for use in kitchens and cabinets or for the intended site. Before spraying, remove all food, utensils, etc., from the pantry and vacuum all cracks and crevices. Then, wipe down the pantry to remove pests and food sources. Finally, spray directly into cracks and crevices of storage cabinet shelves. Overall treatment of storage shelves is not effective.
See Table 4. Identification characteristics of common stored product pests. (Do not include almond moth).
Occasional InvadersOccasional invaders (Table 5) are pests that do not usually live and breed inside a house, but can wander or migrate seasonally into struc-tures. These pests include millipedes, spring-tails, pillbugs and roly-polies. Some of these pests are associated with trees, shrubs, mulch or other habitats conducive to pest develop-ment. Others are attracted to lights at night. Some are dislodged from preferred habitats
by management procedures that make the environment unsatisfactory. Environmental extremes, such as excessive rainfall, drought, temperature changes or poor drainage around a building may stimulate pests to move indoors.
Management of Occasional Invaders
Management for these pests, which need a high moisture environment and are often found around the perimeter of the structure, is done by eliminating conditions near the struc-ture that allow them to build up to large num-bers. Generally, sanitation or good landscaping practices will help eliminate pest-infested sites near structures. Also, pest exclusion, caulk-ing or sealing cracks and pipe penetrations and other openings in the foundation, adding weather-stripping around doors and windows, screening of vents, and changing lighting location or type (sodium vapor lights are less attractive to pests) can solve many problems with occasional invaders. See Sanitation and Exclusion techniques mentioned earlier in this chapter. One study reported reducing mil-lipede invasions into a structure by 93 percent using non-chemical procedures. Several tech-niques were used to reduce moisture levels in the lawn and areas surrounding the structure:
▪ Lawns were dethatched ▪ Lawns were closely mowed and edged
to allow it to dry more quickly ▪ Debris and mulch were pulled at
least 18 inches away from the struc-ture to reduce hiding places
▪ Grass was watered early in the morning to allow it to dry out later in the day
Other ways to modify the environment so that it is less conducive to pests include:
▪ Moving compost piles and decaying veg-etation away from areas close to the home
▪ Trimming shrubs to prevent them from touching the structure and to allow good airflow to reduce molds and mildews
▪ Draining water away from the base of the structure
▪ Reducing moisture in crawl spaces ▪ Maintaining a 12- to 18-inch bare
zone around the base of the structure
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While sealing is the more permanent method of excluding pests originating from outdoors, comprehensive pest-proofing is labor-intensive and sometimes impractical. For clients requiring an alternative, pest proofing can be supplemented by an exterior treatment with an insecticide. Treatment may be needed at the base of all exterior doors, garage and crawl space entrances, around foundation vents and utility openings, and underneath sid-ing. It may also be useful to treat around the outside perimeter of the foundation in a 2- to 6- foot-wide band along the ground, and 2 to 3 feet up the foundation wall. However, many people do not spray this wide a perimeter band because they want to reduce potential pesticide exposure to people, property and pets. Treat-ments to all areas mentioned above may not be allowed for all pesticides. Read the label prior to using a pesticide.
See Table 5. Identification and management of occasional invaders.
Wood-destroying FungiTo successfully prevent or manage wood dam-age, you must first be able to identify wood-destroying organisms and understand their habits and behavior. Only then can their popu-lations be targeted and the conditions that are contributing to their success be eliminated.
Wood-decay FungiA wood-decaying fungus is an organism that cannot make or capture its own food. There-fore, it must feed off of other materials such as wood. Severe wood decay occurs only in wood with a moisture content greater than 20 per-cent. Most wood-decaying fungi grow only on wood in contact with moist soil or wood that is subject to wetting by rain, roof leaks, plumbing leaks or condensation. However, some fungi have water-conducting structures that actually bring water into the wood.
Brown and White RotBrown rot more commonly attacks softwoods and white rot more commonly attacks hard-woods; however, both brown and white rots occasionally colonize both types of wood. Fungi that decay wood and reduce its strength cause brown and white rots. The fungi often produce a whitish, cottony growth on the surface of the wood. The fungi only grow on moist wood and can be present in the wood when it is brought into the house. It can also grow from spores that are always present in the air and soil.
Wood decayed by brown-rot fungi (Figure 19) is brittle and darkened. As decay proceeds, the wood shrinks, twists and cracks perpen-dicular to the grain. Finally, it becomes dry and powdery. Brown rot is the most common type of decay found in wood in houses.
Wood decayed by white-rot fungi is fibrous, spongy and bleached. Sometimes it has thin, dark lines around decayed areas. The wood does not shrink until decay is advanced.
Water-Conducting FungiMost decay fungi are able to grow only on moist wood and cannot attack adjacent dry wood. However, the brown-rot fungus, Poria incrassata, is an exception. It is able to conduct water several feet through root-like strands, called rhizomorphs, which moisten wood and then decay it. These fungi are sometimes called water-conducting or dry rot fungi. They can decay wood in houses very rapidly, but fortunately they are quite rare. Poria incras-sata is found most frequently in the Southeast. Poria can cause extensive damage in floors and walls away from obvious sources of moisture. Decayed wood has the characteristics of brown rotted wood; the exception is that the wood surface sometimes appears wavy. The wood is
Figure 19.
Wood Damaged by Brown Rot Cracks Perpendicular to the Grain
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Tabl
e 4.
Iden
tific
atio
n ch
arac
teri
stic
s of
com
mon
sto
red
prod
uct p
ests
. (D
o no
t inc
lude
alm
ond
mot
h).
Pest
Iden
tific
atio
n ch
arac
teri
stic
sBe
havi
or/L
ife c
ycle
Food
Saw
toot
hed
Gra
in B
eetl
e O
ryza
ephi
lus s
urin
amen
sis
Mer
chan
t Gra
in B
eetl
e O
ryza
ephi
lus m
erca
tor
Size
: Adu
lts a
bout
1/1
0 in
ch
Colo
r: lo
ng a
nd re
ddis
h br
own
to d
ark
brow
nA
dult
Cha
ract
ers:
Lat
eral
mar
gins
of t
he
thor
ax c
onta
in s
awto
othe
d pr
ojec
tions
on
si
des.
Lon
g, n
arro
w b
eetle
s w
ith fl
atte
ned
bodi
es. T
he a
rea
behi
nd th
e ey
e is
sm
alle
r an
d m
ore
poin
ted
in th
e m
erch
ant g
rain
be
etle
as
com
pare
d to
the
saw
toot
h gr
ain
beet
le.
Larv
al C
hara
cter
s: L
arva
e ha
ve b
row
n he
ads
and
thei
r bod
ies
are
yello
wis
h, e
long
ated
an
d se
gmen
ted,
with
thre
e pa
irs o
f leg
s. Th
ey
craw
l act
ivel
y du
ring
feed
ing.
Adul
ts o
f bot
h sp
ecie
s ar
e us
ually
see
n ru
nnin
g ra
pidl
y ov
er s
tore
d fo
od. A
dult
fem
ales
lay
betw
een
45 a
nd 2
85 e
ggs
sing
ly
or in
sm
all b
atch
es in
or a
roun
d su
itabl
e la
rval
food
sour
ces.
Eggs
hat
ch in
abo
ut e
ight
da
ys. L
arva
e pa
ss th
roug
h tw
o to
four
inst
ars
over
an
aver
age
of 3
7 da
ys a
nd p
upat
ion
take
s an
othe
r six
day
s. Te
mpe
ratu
re a
nd
hum
idity
affe
ct th
e de
velo
pmen
t tim
e an
d th
e nu
mbe
r of l
arva
l ins
tars
.
Saw
toot
hed
grai
n be
etle
larv
ae fe
ed o
n ite
ms
such
as
rice,
whe
at a
nd n
utm
eats
. Th
ese
inse
cts
prob
ably
can
not a
ttac
k w
hole
, und
amag
ed g
rain
s, so
may
be
asso
ciat
ed w
ith o
ther
who
le-g
rain
pes
ts
and
feed
on
the
kern
els
dam
aged
by
the
othe
r pes
ts. T
he m
erch
ant g
rain
bee
tle
is n
ot a
maj
or p
est o
f gra
ins
or c
erea
ls,
pref
errin
g se
eds
and
nuts
.
Conf
used
Flo
ur B
eetl
e Tr
ibol
ium
conf
usum
Red
Flou
r Bee
tle
Trib
oliu
m ca
stan
eum
Adu
lt S
ize:
Abo
ut 3
/16
of a
n in
ch
Adu
lt S
hape
and
Col
or: F
latt
ened
and
shi
ny
redd
ish
brow
nA
dult
Cha
ract
ers:
Ant
enna
e of
the
conf
used
flo
ur b
eetle
term
inat
e in
four
seg
men
ts th
at
grad
ually
enl
arge
to fo
rm a
clu
b-lik
e sh
ape,
w
here
as a
nten
nae
of th
e re
d flo
ur b
eetle
ab
rupt
ly te
rmin
ate
in th
ree
larg
er, c
lub-
like
segm
ents
.La
rval
Cha
ract
ers:
Lar
vae
are
slen
der a
nd
wire
like,
whi
tish
colo
red
with
yel
low
ting
es.
They
are
dis
tingu
ishe
d fr
om o
ther
sto
red
prod
uct i
nsec
t lar
vae
by th
e pr
omin
ent,
two-
poin
ted
term
inat
ion
of th
e la
st b
ody
segm
ent.
Adul
t flou
r bee
tles
live
up to
two
year
s. Ad
ult
beet
les
run
quic
kly
whe
n di
stur
bed.
Fem
ales
pr
oduc
e 40
0 to
500
egg
s in
thei
r life
time,
la
ying
two
or th
ree
per d
ay; e
ggs
hatc
h in
fiv
e to
twel
ve d
ays.
Larv
ae p
ass
thro
ugh
five
to 1
8 in
star
s, ty
pica
lly s
even
or e
ight
, ove
r a
perio
d ra
ngin
g fr
om o
ne to
four
mon
ths.
They
feed
on
dam
aged
gra
ins,
flour
, ce
real
s an
d ot
her s
tore
d pr
oduc
ts.
In a
dditi
on to
feed
ing
dam
age,
they
pr
oduc
e se
cret
ions
that
con
tam
inat
e th
e m
ater
ial t
hey
feed
on,
giv
ing
it a
disa
gree
able
odo
r and
tast
e.Th
e co
nfus
ed fl
our b
eetle
and
the
red
flour
bee
tle a
re th
e m
ost c
omm
on a
nd
serio
us p
ests
of fl
our,
cere
al a
nd b
roke
n gr
ains
.
Gra
nary
Wee
vil
Sito
philu
s gra
nariu
s
Rice
Wee
vil
Sito
philu
s ory
zae
Snou
t or s
lend
er e
long
atio
n of
thei
r hea
ds.
Gra
nary
wee
vil:
Abo
ut 1
/8 in
ch lo
ng, s
hiny
da
rk b
row
n or
bla
ck;
top
cent
ral a
rea
of it
s th
orax
is c
over
ed w
ith e
long
ated
dep
ress
ions
or
pun
ctur
es; a
dults
do
not fl
y.Ri
ce w
eevi
l: Sl
ight
ly s
mal
ler;
redd
ish
brow
n to
bla
ck;
top-
cent
ral a
rea
of th
e th
orax
co
vere
d w
ith ro
und
punc
ture
s; fo
ur re
ddis
h or
yel
low
ish
spot
s on
its
elyt
ra; a
goo
d fly
er
Fem
ales
lay
appr
oxim
atel
y 20
0 to
300
egg
s du
ring
thei
r liv
es. (
Rice
wee
vils
pro
duce
mor
e eg
gs th
an g
rana
ry w
eevi
ls.)
Lar
vae
of b
oth
spec
ies
pass
thro
ugh
four
larv
al in
star
s ov
er
a pe
riod
of th
ree
to fi
ve w
eeks
and
usu
ally
ha
ve fo
ur g
ener
atio
ns p
er y
ear.
Adul
ts o
f th
e gr
anar
y w
eevi
l liv
e fr
om s
even
to e
ight
m
onth
s w
hen
food
is a
bund
ant.
Adu
lts o
f th
e ric
e w
eevi
l liv
e th
ree
to s
ix m
onth
s.
Both
bor
e ho
les
into
gra
in k
erne
ls to
de
posi
t the
ir eg
gs. L
arva
e fe
ed a
nd
pupa
te in
side
ker
nels
and
als
o fe
ed o
n ca
ked
flour
and
tigh
tly c
ompr
esse
d ce
real
s. G
rana
ry w
eevi
ls n
ever
fora
ge in
th
e w
ild fo
r foo
d. R
ice
wee
vils
fly
to fi
elds
an
d in
fest
gra
ins
such
as
corn
, ric
e an
d w
heat
. Aft
er h
arve
st, i
nfes
ted
grai
n m
ixed
w
ith c
lean
gra
in c
ause
s w
ides
prea
d co
ntam
inat
ion
durin
g st
orag
e. B
oth
are
serio
us g
rain
pes
ts.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 664
Tabl
e 4.
Iden
tific
atio
n ch
arac
teri
stic
s of
com
mon
sto
red
prod
uct p
ests
. (D
o no
t inc
lude
alm
ond
mot
h).
Pest
Iden
tific
atio
n ch
arac
teri
stic
sBe
havi
or/L
ife c
ycle
Food
Bean
Wee
vil
Acan
thos
celid
es o
btec
tus
Adu
lt S
ize:
Abo
ut 1
/2 in
ch lo
ngA
dult
Sha
pe a
nd C
olor
: Lig
ht o
live
brow
n w
ith d
arke
r bro
wn
and
gray
mar
king
s an
d re
ddis
h le
gs.
Adu
lt C
hara
cter
s: N
ot w
eevi
ls b
ut b
elon
g to
th
e se
ed b
eetle
fam
ily B
ruch
idae
.
Fem
ales
lay
abou
t 75
eggs
dur
ing
thei
r lif
etim
e; th
ese
are
depo
site
d si
ngly
on
or
near
hos
t see
ds a
nd h
atch
aft
er fi
ve to
20
days
. Lar
vae
feed
for f
our t
o si
x w
eeks
bef
ore
pupa
ting.
Lar
vae
bore
into
see
ds w
here
th
ey fe
ed a
nd p
upat
e. A
fter
pup
atio
n, a
dults
bo
re a
n em
erge
nce
hole
in th
e se
ed. O
ften
m
ore
than
one
larv
a in
fest
a s
ingl
e se
ed.
Adul
ts h
iber
nate
dur
ing
the
win
ter,
but i
f te
mpe
ratu
res
rise,
they
em
erge
and
fem
ales
be
gin
egg
layi
ng a
gain
.
Eggs
are
laid
on
pods
of l
egum
es s
uch
as b
eans
, pea
s an
d le
ntils
in th
e fie
ld o
r on
the
surf
ace
of s
tore
d le
gum
es. G
rain
s, ce
real
s an
d ot
her s
tore
d fo
od p
rodu
cts
are
not i
nfes
ted
by b
ean
wee
vils
. In
fest
atio
n of
sto
red
legu
mes
can
eas
ily
occu
r fro
m h
arve
sted
pro
duct
s be
ing
brou
ght i
n fr
om th
e fie
ld.
Ciga
rett
e Be
etle
La
siod
erm
a se
rric
orne
A
dult
Siz
e: A
bout
1/8
inch
long
A
dult
sha
pe a
nd C
olor
: Red
dish
yel
low
to
brow
nish
red
Adu
lt C
hara
cter
s: In
pow
derp
ost b
eetle
fa
mily
cal
led
Ano
biid
ae. H
ead
is b
elow
pr
otho
rax
and
cann
ot b
e se
en w
hen
view
ed
from
abo
ve.
Ciga
rett
e be
etle
: saw
-like
ant
enna
e; s
hiny
el
ytra
; di
stin
ct h
umpe
d ap
pear
ance
Ciga
rett
e be
etle
: Fe
mal
es p
rodu
ce a
bout
30
egg
s ov
er a
thre
e-w
eek
perio
d; th
ese
usua
lly h
atch
with
in o
ne w
eek.
Lar
vae
are
curv
ed, p
lum
p an
d ha
iry; t
hey
are
yello
wis
h w
ith a
ligh
t bro
wn
head
. The
larv
al s
tage
la
sts
from
five
to te
n w
eeks
and
thre
e to
six
br
oods
are
pro
duce
d in
a y
ear.
Ciga
rett
e be
etle
: Sto
red
food
suc
h as
to
bacc
o, ri
ce, r
aisi
ns, g
rain
s, pe
pper
and
m
any
othe
r sto
red
prod
ucts
.
Dru
gsto
re B
eetl
e St
egob
ium
pan
iceu
mD
rugs
tore
bee
tle:
ant
enna
e ha
ve a
3-
segm
ente
d cl
ub; e
lytr
a w
ith lo
ngitu
dina
l st
riatio
ns, o
r rid
ges;
app
eara
nce
less
hum
ped
Dru
gsto
re b
eetl
e: D
rugs
tore
bee
tles
usua
lly
have
one
to fo
ur g
ener
atio
ns p
er y
ear.
They
co
mpl
ete
a lif
e cy
cle
in a
bout
two
mon
ths.
They
can
sur
vive
on
item
s w
ith lo
w fo
od
valu
e be
caus
e of
yea
st-li
ke o
rgan
ism
s in
th
eir d
iges
tive
syst
ems
that
pro
duce
som
e es
sent
ial v
itam
ins.
Dru
gsto
re b
eetl
e: E
very
type
of s
tore
d pr
oduc
t as
wel
l as
spic
es, d
rugs
, boo
ks
and
woo
d.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 665
Tabl
e 5.
Iden
tific
atio
n an
d m
anag
emen
t of o
ccas
iona
l inv
ader
s.
Pest
Iden
tific
atio
n ch
arac
teri
stic
sD
amag
e/Be
havi
or/L
ife c
ycle
Man
agem
ent
Fore
ign
grai
n be
etle
Ah
asve
rus a
dven
aSi
ze: s
mal
l (1/
12 in
ch)
Colo
r: a
dult
redd
ish-
brow
nA
dult
Cha
ract
ers:
pro
ject
ing
roun
ded
lobe
on
the
fron
t cor
ners
of t
he p
rono
tum
From
mid
-Jul
y th
roug
h Se
ptem
ber,
the
adul
t fem
ale
is a
ttra
cted
to p
oorly
-sea
sone
d lu
mbe
r or w
et p
last
er a
nd w
all b
oard
th
at s
uppo
rts
fung
al g
row
th. F
orei
gn
grai
n be
etle
s ca
n al
so b
e as
soci
ated
with
pl
umbi
ng le
aks,
cond
ensa
tion
prob
lem
s, or
poo
r ven
tilat
ion.
Egg
s ar
e la
id o
n th
ese
mat
eria
ls a
s th
e ho
use
is b
eing
bui
lt an
d la
rvae
feed
on
the
mol
ds. I
n th
e la
te s
umm
er,
adul
ts b
ecom
e ob
viou
s w
hen
they
em
erge
fr
om th
e w
all v
oids
and
are
att
ract
ed to
lig
hts.
Elim
inat
e w
et w
ood
and
the
moi
stur
e so
urce
. Ad
d ve
ntila
tion
such
as
air c
ondi
tione
rs o
r fa
ns. H
omes
will
dry
out
nat
ural
ly in
1-4
yea
rs.
Vacu
um o
r use
pyr
ethr
in s
pray
s w
ith v
acuu
min
g to
kill
and
rem
ove
the
adul
ts. A
resi
dual
aer
osol
or
dus
t can
then
be
inje
cted
int
o cr
acks
an
d cr
evic
es a
long
bas
eboa
rds
and
into
the
wal
l voi
ds. B
eetle
s m
ay s
till e
mer
ge fr
om th
e ba
sebo
ards
and
die
on
the
floor
.
Hou
se c
rick
etAc
heta
dom
estic
usH
ouse
Cri
cket
Size
:1/2
and
3/4
inch
.Co
lor:
ligh
t yel
low
ish
brow
n, w
ith th
ree
dark
ba
nds
on th
e he
ad, o
r sol
id s
hiny
bla
ck.
Cric
kets
dam
age
fabr
ics
or o
ther
mat
eria
ls.
Occ
asio
nally
inva
de a
str
uctu
re in
larg
e nu
mbe
rs. A
ttra
cted
to li
ghts
aro
und
a bu
ildin
g at
nig
ht. B
esid
es d
amag
e, th
ey c
hirp
w
hich
may
bec
ome
anno
ying
to b
uild
ing
inha
bita
nts.
Excl
usio
n: S
anita
tion
and
excl
usio
n ar
e ve
ry
impo
rtan
t in
the
cont
rol p
roce
ss. I
nsta
ll ve
nts
with
scr
eens
and
vap
or b
arrie
rs a
nd/o
r fre
nch
drai
ns in
the
craw
lspa
ce. R
educ
e or
elim
inat
e m
oist
har
bora
ge a
roun
d th
e st
ruct
ure.
Rem
ove
wee
ds a
nd p
iles
of w
ood,
bric
ks, l
eave
s, an
d ot
her d
ebris
. Sea
l cra
cks
and
gaps
in
foun
datio
ns, s
idin
g, o
r aro
und
win
dow
s an
d do
ors.
Pla
ce g
lue
boar
ds n
ear e
ntry
poi
nts
to tr
ap a
nd d
etec
t cric
kets
. Vac
uum
s ar
e al
so
effec
tive
in re
mov
ing
this
pes
t. Re
mov
e de
ad
cric
kets
to p
reve
nt th
e bu
ild u
p of
car
pet
beet
les
and
odor
s.U
se in
sect
icid
es if
san
itatio
n an
d ex
clus
ion
resu
lts a
re n
ot q
uick
eno
ugh.
App
ly b
aits
in
door
s to
cra
cks
and
crev
ices
, wal
l voi
ds,
unfin
ishe
d at
tics
and
craw
lspa
ces
with
in
build
ings
. Spr
ays
entr
y po
ints
. Dus
ts c
an b
e bl
own
into
inac
cess
ible
are
as.
Cam
el c
rick
etCe
utho
philu
s spp
.Ca
mel
cri
cket
Size
: may
be
grea
ter t
han
one
inch
, hu
mpb
acke
d, v
ery
larg
e hi
nd le
gs a
nd lo
ng
ante
nnae
.Co
lor:
bro
wni
sh, w
ingl
ess
Beha
vior
: hig
h ju
mpi
ng a
bilit
y, u
psid
e do
wn
rest
ing
stat
e, n
o so
und
prod
uced
, gre
y fe
ces
may
pile
on
the
grou
nd b
elow
them
.
Nui
sanc
e in
bui
ldin
gs, b
ut h
ave
eate
n ho
les
in la
ce c
urta
ins
and
clot
hes
hung
to d
ry.
Activ
e at
nig
ht a
nd a
re a
ttra
cted
to c
ool,
dam
p si
tuat
ions
foun
d in
she
ds, u
nder
co
ncre
te p
ads
or a
ir-co
nditi
onin
g un
its, i
n w
ells
, bas
emen
ts, c
raw
lspa
ces,
utili
ty ro
oms
and
gara
ges
and
othe
r are
as w
here
moi
stur
e ac
cum
ulat
es. H
ot a
nd d
ry w
eath
er m
ay
caus
e th
e cr
icke
ts to
mov
e in
door
s in
sea
rch
of m
oist
ure.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 666
Tabl
e 5.
Iden
tific
atio
n an
d m
anag
emen
t of o
ccas
iona
l inv
ader
s.
Pest
Iden
tific
atio
n ch
arac
teri
stic
sD
amag
e/Be
havi
or/L
ife c
ycle
Man
agem
ent
Silv
erfis
h, fi
re b
rats
and
bris
tlet
ails
Size
: 1/3
to 3
/4 in
ch lo
ngCo
lor:
silv
er, o
r lig
ht to
dar
k gr
ay, s
omet
imes
m
ottle
d gr
ay. A
dult
Char
acte
rs: w
ider
at
the
fron
t end
than
the
rear
. Win
gles
s in
sect
s co
vere
d w
ith s
cale
s; tw
o lo
ng,
slen
der a
nten
nae
and
thre
e lo
ng, t
ail-l
ike
appe
ndag
es o
n th
e re
ar. T
he fi
rebr
at=s
an
tenn
ae e
xcee
d th
e en
d of
the
abdo
men
. Yo
ung
rese
mbl
e th
e ad
ults
.
Silv
erfis
h an
d fir
ebra
ts e
at a
wid
e va
riety
of
food
, inc
ludi
ng g
lue,
wal
lpap
er p
aste
, bo
okbi
ndin
gs, p
aper
, sta
rch
in c
loth
ing,
ra
yon
fabr
ic, w
heat
flou
r, ce
real
s, dr
ied
mea
ts
and
dead
inse
cts.
They
are
act
ive
at n
ight
an
d of
ten
foun
d tr
appe
d in
a b
atht
ub, s
ink
or w
ash
basi
n. S
ilver
fish
live
and
deve
lop
in d
ark,
coo
l pla
ces
and
fireb
rats
live
in h
ot,
dark
pla
ces
(nea
r fur
nace
s, fir
epla
ces
or
insu
latio
n ar
ound
hot
pip
es).
They
can
live
w
ithou
t foo
d fo
r man
y m
onth
s.
Sani
tatio
n is
impo
rtan
t but
not
ent
irely
effe
ctiv
e in
redu
cing
pop
ulat
ions
. Rem
ove
old
stac
ks
of n
ewsp
aper
s, m
agaz
ines
, pap
er, b
ooks
and
fa
bric
s st
ored
for l
ong
perio
ds o
f tim
e, a
s w
ell
as s
pille
d fo
od. R
educ
ing
avai
labl
e w
ater
and
lo
wer
ing
rela
tive
hum
idity
with
deh
umid
ifier
s an
d fa
ns m
ay h
elp.
Lig
htin
g a
dark
, she
ltere
d ar
ea m
ay fo
rce
thes
e in
sect
s to
mov
e to
new
si
tes
whe
re th
ey c
an b
e co
ntro
lled
mor
e ea
sily
. In
spec
t foo
d, fu
rnitu
re, o
ld b
ooks
, pap
ers
and
clot
hing
whe
n br
ough
t int
o th
e st
ruct
ure.
Inse
ctic
ide
form
ulat
ions
suc
h as
dus
ts, b
aits
or
spr
ays
shou
ld b
e ap
plie
d th
orou
ghly
to a
ll po
tent
ial h
idin
g pl
aces
suc
h as
cra
cks,
crev
ices
, ar
ound
floo
r mol
ding
, aro
und
stea
m a
nd w
ater
pi
pes,
in a
nd b
ehin
d se
ldom
-mov
ed fu
rnitu
re,
unde
r bat
hroo
m fi
xtur
es a
nd e
ven
in a
ttic
s. It
may
be
nece
ssar
y to
dril
l sm
all h
oles
in th
e w
alls
to
trea
t lar
ge p
opul
atio
ns.
Psoc
ids
or b
ookl
ice
Size
: mos
t are
less
than
1/8
inch
long
. Co
lor:
col
orle
ss, g
ray
to li
ght b
row
nA
dult
Cha
ract
ers:
sm
all s
oft-
bodi
ed in
sect
s;
mos
t ind
oor s
peci
es a
re w
ingl
ess.
Psoc
ids
have
che
win
g m
outh
part
s.
Psoc
ids
feed
on
mol
ds, f
ungi
, cer
eals
, pol
len,
fr
agm
ents
of d
ead
inse
cts
or o
ther
sim
ilar
mat
eria
ls. T
hey
caus
e lit
tle lo
ss o
f foo
d be
caus
e th
ey fe
ed c
hiefl
y on
mol
d. A
t tim
es
they
may
bec
ome
extr
emel
y ab
unda
nt a
nd
spre
ad th
roug
h an
ent
ire b
uild
ing.
In s
uch
situ
atio
ns th
ey m
ay c
onta
min
ate
food
s an
d m
ater
ials
to th
e po
int t
he g
oods
mus
t be
disc
arde
d. D
amag
e to
boo
ks m
ay b
e m
ore
dire
ct b
ecau
se b
ookl
ice
eat t
he s
tarc
h si
zing
in
the
bind
ings
and
alo
ng th
e pa
ge e
dges
.
Moi
stur
e re
duct
ion,
to e
limin
ate
mol
d fo
rmat
ion,
is
a v
ery
effec
tive
met
hod
for b
ookl
ice
cont
rol.
Infe
sted
furn
iture
, bed
ding
or o
ther
mov
able
fu
rnis
hing
s sh
ould
be
thor
ough
ly c
lean
ed a
nd
aire
d. C
lean
up
spill
ed fo
od p
rodu
cts
and
keep
al
l sto
red
prod
ucts
tigh
tly s
eale
d. If
requ
ired,
ap
ply
a sp
ot tr
eatm
ent o
f res
idua
l ins
ectic
ide.
Ae
roso
l app
licat
ions
redu
ce n
umbe
rs b
ut w
ill
not p
rovi
de lo
ng-t
erm
redu
ctio
ns. N
on-r
esid
ual
spac
e sp
rays
may
cau
se b
ookl
ice
to d
ispe
rse
thro
ugh
build
ings
.
Spri
ngta
ils
Size
: ext
rem
ely
smal
l, 0.
04 to
0.0
8 in
ch (1
- 2
mm
)Co
lor:
whi
te o
r gra
y.
Adu
lt C
hara
cter
s: T
hey
have
a fo
rked
ap
pend
age
to th
e re
ar a
nd b
otto
m o
f the
ab
dom
en. T
his
appe
ndag
e, u
sed
as a
leve
r, al
low
s th
ese
inse
cts
to ju
mp
or s
prin
g in
to
the
air,
whi
ch is
how
the
inse
cts
got t
heir
nam
e.
Com
mon
out
side
soi
l ins
ects
that
bec
ome
prob
lem
s in
hom
es a
nd o
ther
str
uctu
res
whe
n th
ey in
vade
in e
norm
ous
num
bers
. Th
ere
may
be
as m
any
as 5
0,00
0 sp
ringt
ails
pe
r cub
ic fo
ot o
f for
est l
itter
. The
y ca
n al
so b
e in
door
s in
pot
ted
plan
ts a
nd d
ecay
ing
bulb
s.
They
infe
st b
uild
ings
that
hav
e co
nsta
nt h
igh
hum
idity
. Thi
s is
usu
ally
in th
e ba
sem
ent,
but
may
be
in o
ther
are
as w
ith w
ater
leak
s. A
s a
resu
lt, th
e be
st m
etho
d of
con
trol
is to
sto
p th
e le
ak o
r dec
reas
e th
e hu
mid
ity. F
ans
may
be
used
to
dry
out
wet
are
as q
uick
ly.
Sprin
gtai
ls o
ften
bre
ed in
moi
st c
ondi
tions
ou
tdoo
rs a
nd m
ay e
nter
hom
es o
r oth
er
stru
ctur
es u
nder
doo
rs w
hen
attr
acte
d to
ligh
t an
d m
oist
ure.
The
y ar
e pa
rtic
ular
pro
blem
in
new
ly b
uilt
build
ings
with
wet
mat
eria
ls. D
ry
outd
oor e
nviro
nmen
t, se
al e
ntry
poi
nts
and
appl
y pe
stic
ides
to e
ntry
poi
nts.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 667
Tabl
e 5.
Iden
tific
atio
n an
d m
anag
emen
t of o
ccas
iona
l inv
ader
s.
Pest
Iden
tific
atio
n ch
arac
teri
stic
sD
amag
e/Be
havi
or/L
ife c
ycle
Man
agem
ent
Earw
igs
Size
: 2 to
1 in
ch lo
ng C
olor
: usu
ally
dar
k br
own
Adu
lt C
hara
cter
s: a
pai
r of p
ince
rlike
ap
pend
ages
at t
he ti
p of
the
abdo
men
; be
etle
-like
, sho
rt-w
inge
d, fa
st m
ovin
g in
sect
s. Th
e na
me
earw
ig is
der
ived
from
an
old
sup
erst
ition
that
thes
e in
sect
s en
ter
peop
les=
ear
s.
Earw
igs
are
activ
e at
nig
ht. T
hey
usua
lly h
ide
in c
rack
s, cr
evic
es, u
nder
bar
k or
in s
imila
r pl
aces
dur
ing
the
day.
The
y ar
e us
ually
sc
aven
gers
in th
eir f
eedi
ng h
abits
, but
oc
casi
onal
ly fe
ed o
n pl
ants
.Th
ey a
re u
sual
ly o
utsi
de u
nles
s po
pula
tions
ar
e la
rge
or o
ther
con
ditio
ns a
re a
dver
se.
Hea
vily
that
ched
law
ns o
r mul
ched
flow
er
beds
are
am
ong
thei
r pre
ferr
ed d
aytim
e ha
bita
ts. A
t nig
ht th
ey c
olle
ct in
larg
e nu
mbe
rs a
roun
d st
reet
ligh
ts, n
eon
light
s, lig
hted
win
dow
s or
sim
ilar l
ocat
ions
whe
re
they
sea
rch
for f
ood.
Fav
orite
food
s in
clud
e ar
myw
orm
s, ap
hids
, mite
s, an
d sc
ales
. The
y w
ill a
lso
fora
ge o
n fo
od s
crap
s or
dea
d in
sect
s.
Vacu
um e
arw
igs
in h
ome.
Elim
inat
e da
mp,
moi
st
cond
ition
s in
cra
wl s
pace
s un
der h
ouse
s, ar
ound
fa
ucet
s, ar
ound
air-
cond
ition
ing
units
and
alo
ng
hous
e fo
unda
tions
. Ear
wig
s ar
e di
fficu
lt to
co
ntro
l with
che
mic
als.
App
ly b
arrie
r tre
atm
ent
of r
esid
ual i
nsec
ticid
es la
te in
the
afte
rnoo
n or
ear
ly e
veni
ng b
ecau
se e
arw
igs
are
activ
e at
ni
ght.
Sow
bugs
and
Pill
bugs
Size
: abo
ut 2
inch
in le
ngth
Co
lor:
sla
te-g
ray
Adu
lt C
hara
cter
s: c
omm
on c
rust
acea
ns th
at
are
win
gles
s, ov
al o
r slig
htly
elo
ngat
ed w
ith
body
seg
men
ts a
ppea
ring
as a
rmor
ed p
late
s. So
wbu
gs: h
ave
two
taill
ike
appe
ndag
es,
pillb
ugs
or ro
ly-p
olie
s do
n=t,
but c
an ro
ll in
to
a tig
ht b
all.
They
requ
ire h
igh
moi
stur
e an
d ar
e m
ost
activ
e at
nig
ht. W
hen
rest
ing
durin
g th
e da
y,
they
may
be
foun
d un
der t
rash
, roc
ks, b
oard
s an
d de
cayi
ng v
eget
atio
n or
just
ben
eath
the
soil
surf
ace.
Mul
ches
, gra
ss c
lippi
ngs
and
leaf
litt
er o
ften
pro
vide
the
deca
ying
org
anic
m
atte
r the
se b
ugs
need
to s
urvi
ve.
Sow
bugs
and
pill
bugs
cau
se n
o da
mag
e in
side
th
e ho
me.
Mec
hani
cal c
ontr
ol m
ay b
e ad
equa
te
indo
ors.
Seal
ent
ry p
oint
s in
to s
truc
ture
. Rem
ove
pile
s of
leav
es, g
rass
clip
ping
s, fa
llen
frui
t ,
boxe
s or
boa
rds
and
othe
r deb
ris fr
om n
ear
the
stru
ctur
e. If
nec
essa
ry, t
reat
out
door
nea
r fo
unda
tions
wal
ls, a
roun
d st
eps
or d
amp
area
s su
rrou
ndin
g th
e st
ruct
ure.
Cra
cks
betw
een
side
wal
ks a
nd fo
unda
tion
requ
ire th
orou
gh
trea
tmen
t. G
ranu
les
or d
usts
are
als
o us
eful
for
trea
ting
arou
nd fo
unda
tions
and
cra
wl s
pace
s.
Cent
iped
es
Size
: var
y in
leng
th fr
om 1
to 6
inch
esCo
lor:
bro
wni
shA
dult
Cha
ract
ers:
flat
tene
d an
imal
s w
ith
man
y bo
dy s
egm
ents
; mos
t bod
y se
gmen
ts
have
one
pai
r of l
egs;
are
fast
runn
ers
and
have
one
pai
r of a
nten
nae
that
are
eas
ily
seen
.
Cent
iped
es a
nd m
illip
edes
are
com
mon
ly
seen
in y
ards
and
occ
asio
nally
ent
er h
omes
. N
eith
er c
entip
edes
nor
mill
iped
es d
amag
e fu
rnis
hing
s, ho
me
or fo
od. C
entip
ede
have
po
orly
dev
elop
ed e
yes
and
are
mos
t act
ive
at n
ight
. The
y ar
e ac
tive
pred
ator
s an
d fe
ed
mai
nly
on in
sect
s an
d sp
ider
s. A
ll ce
ntip
edes
ha
ve v
enom
gla
nds
to im
mob
ilize
thei
r pre
y.Ce
ntip
edes
are
usu
ally
ass
ocia
ted
with
da
mp,
dar
k pl
aces
suc
h as
und
er s
tone
s, le
af li
tter
, log
s, ba
rk o
r soi
l cre
vice
s. In
door
s th
ey m
ay b
e fo
und
in c
lose
ts a
nd b
athr
oom
s w
here
ther
e is
hig
h hu
mid
ity.
Caul
king
can
als
o be
per
form
ed a
long
with
ot
her e
xclu
sion
pra
ctic
es to
pre
vent
ent
ry in
to
the
stru
ctur
e. C
ontr
ol in
sect
s on
whi
ch th
ey
feed
. Re
mov
e ce
ntip
edes
with
a v
acuu
m.
Spot
tr
eatm
ents
of r
esid
ual i
nsec
ticid
es to
infe
sted
ar
eas
aids
in c
ontr
ol.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 668
Tabl
e 5.
Iden
tific
atio
n an
d m
anag
emen
t of o
ccas
iona
l inv
ader
s.
Pest
Iden
tific
atio
n ch
arac
teri
stic
sD
amag
e/Be
havi
or/L
ife c
ycle
Man
agem
ent
Mill
iped
es o
r tho
usan
d-
legg
ers
Adu
lt C
hara
cter
s: w
orm
like,
cyl
indr
ical
an
imal
s w
ith m
any
body
seg
men
ts. M
ost
of th
eir b
ody
segm
ents
bea
r tw
o pa
irs o
f le
gs. M
illip
edes
tend
to c
oil u
p tig
htly
whe
n di
stur
bed
and
som
e sp
ecie
s ca
n se
cret
e fo
ul-
smel
ling
fluid
.
Mill
iped
es fe
ed o
n de
cayi
ng v
eget
able
m
atte
r and
are
oft
en fo
und
unde
r sto
nes,
flow
er p
ots,
boar
ds o
r sim
ilar d
ebris
whe
re
ther
e is
abu
ndan
t moi
stur
e. O
ccas
iona
lly
afte
r rai
ns o
r dur
ing
cold
wea
ther
, lar
ge
num
bers
of m
illip
edes
may
mig
rate
into
bu
ildin
gs. T
hey
can
clim
b fo
unda
tion
wal
ls a
nd e
nter
hou
ses
thro
ugh
any
smal
l op
enin
g. T
hese
pes
ts a
re g
ener
ally
mor
e tr
oubl
esom
e in
woo
ded
or n
ewly
dev
elop
ed
area
s w
here
dec
ayin
g ve
geta
tion
prov
ides
ex
celle
nt fo
od a
nd b
reed
ing
cond
ition
s.
Mill
iped
es a
s w
ith o
ther
pes
ts w
ith h
igh
moi
stur
e re
quire
men
ts s
houl
d di
e in
door
s af
ter
seve
ral d
ays.
Caul
king
can
als
o be
per
form
ed
alon
g w
ith o
ther
exc
lusi
on p
ract
ices
to p
reve
nt
entr
y in
to th
e st
ruct
ure.
Red
uce
moi
stur
e le
vels
in
law
n an
d ar
eas
surr
ound
ing
the
stru
ctur
e.
Det
hatc
h th
e la
wn
and
clos
ely
mow
the
law
n.
Rem
ove
mul
ch a
nd d
ecay
ing
mat
ter f
rom
the
near
the
foun
datio
n. W
ater
pla
nts
in m
orni
ng
so s
oil d
ries
out i
n be
twee
n w
ater
ing.
Com
post
pi
les
shou
ld b
e m
oved
aw
ay fr
om th
e st
ruct
ure
beca
use
they
pro
vide
food
and
hab
itat.
Indo
or c
hem
ical
trea
tmen
t will
elim
inat
e on
ly
the
cent
iped
es o
r mill
iped
es a
lread
y in
side
. Spo
t tr
eatm
ents
of r
esid
ual i
nsec
ticid
es to
infe
sted
ar
eas
aids
in c
ontr
ol. R
emov
e in
divi
dual
s w
ith a
va
cuum
.
Mul
tico
lore
d A
sian
Lad
y Be
etle
Har
mon
ia a
xyrid
is
Adu
lt C
hara
cter
s: o
rang
e-re
d be
etle
s w
ith
0 to
19
squa
re-s
hape
d do
ts o
n el
ytra
, bla
ck
spot
s th
at fo
rma
an A
m@
or A
w@
on
the
pron
otum
.
Bene
ficia
l ins
ect t
hat f
eeds
on
aphi
ds.
In th
e fa
ll, in
vade
hom
es in
sea
rch
of a
pro
tect
ed
over
-win
terin
g si
te.
By S
epte
mbe
r, pe
rfor
m th
e fo
llow
ing
excl
usio
n pr
actic
es to
sea
l gap
s >
1/8
inch
.Ca
ulk
arou
nd w
indo
w fr
ames
; fit d
oors
, in
clud
ing
gara
ge d
oors
, with
sw
eeps
if n
eede
d;
use
foam
wea
ther
strip
ping
in th
e tr
acks
bel
ow
slid
ing
glas
s do
ors;
sea
l ope
ning
s fo
unda
tion
pene
trat
ions
suc
h as
out
door
fauc
ets,
gas
met
ers,
drye
r ven
ts, w
ires,
pipe
s; a
nd s
cree
n at
tic a
nd c
raw
lspa
ce v
ents
. Pyr
ethr
oids
can
be
app
lied
to p
oten
tial o
utdo
or e
ntry
poi
nts
befo
re b
eetle
s ar
rive.
Onc
e be
etle
s in
vade
, use
a
vacu
um o
r glu
e bo
ards
to re
mov
e fr
om th
e in
terio
r. In
door
trap
s ha
ve h
ad v
aria
ble
resu
lts
ofte
n du
e to
com
petit
ion
with
nat
ural
ligh
t so
urce
s.
Scor
pion
Adu
lt C
hara
cter
s: fl
atte
ned,
cra
b-lik
e an
imal
s ha
ving
10
legs
and
a fl
eshy
tail,
en
ding
in a
n en
larg
ed, u
ptur
ned
tip w
hich
be
ars
a st
inge
r.
Scor
pion
s ar
e m
ost a
ctiv
e at
nig
ht a
nd
feed
on
inse
cts,
spid
ers
and
sim
ilar s
mal
l an
imal
life
. Sc
orpi
ons
will
stin
g, b
ut u
sual
ly
whe
n pr
ovok
ed o
r dis
turb
ed. T
enne
ssee
sc
orpi
ons=
neu
roto
xins
are
usu
ally
in
suffi
cien
t to
prov
e fa
tal t
o an
adu
lt;
how
ever
, the
sig
ht o
f the
stin
g m
ay b
e so
re
and
swol
len
for s
ome
time.
Pest
pro
of to
den
y pe
st a
cces
s to
the
stru
ctur
e.
Rem
ove
outd
oor h
arbo
rage
site
s in
clud
ing
stac
ks o
f woo
d, b
rick,
blo
ck, e
tc.
Scor
pion
s al
so
shel
ter u
nder
railr
oad
ties,
rock
s, m
ulch
and
m
ore.
Sco
rpio
ns w
ill fl
uore
sce
unde
r a b
lack
lig
ht, s
o th
ey a
nd th
eir b
reed
ing
area
s ca
n be
se
en a
t nig
ht. M
echa
nica
lly d
estr
oy s
corp
ions
as
they
are
foun
d. T
reat
hid
ing
and
bree
ding
are
as
with
resi
dual
spr
ays
or d
usts
. U
se g
lue
boar
ds to
tr
ap s
corp
ions
and
loca
te in
fest
ed a
reas
.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 669
Tabl
e 5.
Iden
tific
atio
n an
d m
anag
emen
t of o
ccas
iona
l inv
ader
s.
Pest
Iden
tific
atio
n ch
arac
teri
stic
sD
amag
e/Be
havi
or/L
ife c
ycle
Man
agem
ent
Boxe
lder
bug
Lept
ocor
is tr
ivitt
atus
(Say
)
Boxe
lder
: Adu
lts a
re fl
at, a
bout
2 in
ch lo
ng,
1/3
inch
wid
e an
d da
rk b
row
nish
-bla
ck
with
thre
e le
ngth
wis
e re
d st
ripes
on
the
pron
otum
. The
re a
re re
d ve
ins
in th
e w
ings
; th
e ab
dom
en is
brig
ht re
d un
der t
he w
ings
. N
ymph
s ar
e sm
alle
r, w
ingl
ess
and
brig
ht re
d.
Adul
t and
larg
e ny
mph
box
elde
r bug
s co
ngre
gate
in la
rge
num
bers
, prim
arily
on
the
bark
of b
oxel
der t
rees
, and
then
beg
in
mig
ratin
g to
a p
lace
for o
ver w
inte
ring.
O
nly
adul
ts o
verw
inte
r and
see
k cr
acks
an
d cr
evic
es in
wal
ls, i
n do
or a
nd w
indo
w
casi
ngs,
arou
nd fo
unda
tions
, in
ston
e pi
les,
in tr
ee h
oles
and
in o
ther
pro
tect
ed p
lace
s.
On
war
m d
ays
durin
g w
inte
r and
ear
ly
sprin
g, th
ey m
ay a
ppea
r on
light
pai
nted
su
rfac
es o
utdo
ors
on th
e so
uth
and
wes
t si
des
of th
e ho
use,
rest
ing
in th
e su
n.Bo
xeld
er b
ugs
feed
prim
arily
on
the
seed
-bea
ring
boxe
lder
tree
s by
suc
king
sa
p fr
om th
e le
aves
, ten
der t
wig
s an
d de
velo
ping
see
ds. O
ccas
iona
lly, t
hey
have
be
en o
bser
ved
feed
ing
on o
ther
pla
nts
(see
SP3
41H
for a
com
plet
e lis
t); h
owev
er,
boxe
lder
bug
s se
ldom
dev
elop
in la
rge
enou
gh n
umbe
rs to
bec
ome
a nu
isan
ce
unle
ss a
ble
to fe
ed o
n po
d-be
arin
g bo
xeld
er
tree
s.
Out
door
s: H
ost r
emov
alBe
caus
e bo
xeld
er b
ugs
bree
d on
ly o
n fe
mal
e bo
xeld
er tr
ees,
rem
oval
of t
hese
tree
s m
ay
redu
ce n
uisa
nce
popu
latio
ns.
Out
door
s: E
xclu
sion
and
San
itat
ion
Be s
ure
to re
pair
and
clos
e op
enin
gs w
here
bo
xeld
er b
ugs
can
ente
r the
hou
se b
efor
e bu
gs
star
t mov
ing
off th
eir h
ost i
n th
e fa
ll.O
utdo
ors:
Rem
ovin
g Bu
gs b
y Va
cuum
ing
A w
et/d
ry v
acuu
m c
lean
er w
ith a
soa
py w
ater
m
ixtu
re (o
ne te
aspo
on o
f a li
quid
hou
seho
ld
dete
rgen
t per
gal
lon
of w
ater
) can
be
used
to
rem
ove
bugs
. The
bug
s w
ill d
row
n qu
ickl
y in
the
soap
y w
ater
.O
utdo
ors:
Inse
ctic
ides
on
Tree
sIn
spec
t box
elde
r and
oth
er h
ost p
lant
s du
ring
sprin
g an
d ea
rly s
umm
er fo
r you
ng, e
xpos
ed
boxe
lder
bug
s an
d tr
eat t
o pr
even
t pot
entia
lly
larg
e po
pula
tions
and
indo
or m
igra
tions
in th
e au
tum
n.
Out
door
s: In
sect
icid
es o
n St
ruct
ures
and
O
ther
Obj
ects
A
s bo
xeld
er b
ugs
mat
ure
and
leav
e th
e tr
ees,
mas
sing
on
foun
datio
n w
alls
, sid
ewal
ks, f
ence
ro
ws,
etc.
, the
y m
ay b
e ki
lled
with
spr
ays.
Indo
ors
Use
a v
acuu
m c
lean
er to
rem
ove
bugs
indo
ors.
Red-
shou
lder
ed b
ugJa
dera
hae
mat
olom
aRe
d-sh
ould
ered
bug
: Sim
ilar t
o bo
xeld
er
bugs
, exc
ept r
ed-s
houl
dere
d bu
gs la
ck th
e ce
ntra
l red
str
ip o
n th
e pr
onot
um a
nd th
e re
d st
ripes
on
the
win
gs.
In Te
nnes
see,
red-
shou
lder
ed b
ugs
have
be
en fo
und
feed
ing
on s
eeds
of g
olde
nrai
n tr
ee, b
ut a
lso
may
suc
k ju
ices
from
frui
ts o
f ot
her t
rees
(see
SP3
41H
for a
com
plet
e lis
t).
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 670
apparently sound, although the interior may be heavily decayed. The rhizomorphs that characterize these fungi can be up to an inch in diameter and white to black, depending on their age. They can penetrate foundation walls and often are hidden between wood mem-bers. Poria incrassata normally occurs in new or remodeled houses and can cause extensive damage within 2 to 3 years.
Wood-Decay Fungi Management
The fungi can be managed by eliminating the source of moisture that allows them to grow. Improving drainage and ventilation under a house or in an attic, installing soil covers or vapor barriers, repairing water leaks or pre-venting water seepage, and eliminating contact between wood and soil are all helpful manage-ment methods. When the wood dries, the fun-gi die or become dormant. Treating the wood with chemicals, such as borates, will help to treat the symptoms of the problem, but not the cause. The source of moisture must be removed to prevent further fungal infestation. Seri-ously damaged members should be replaced. If moisture cannot be managed or wood is used in areas of ground contact or high moisture, then pressure-treated wood should be used. Borates are labeled for fungal management of wood in-service. Most often, in-place treat-ments are not used because the decay has not been detected until after significant damage to the wood has occurred.
TermitesTermites are small white or brown insects that live in colonies within soil or wood. They require wood, wood products or other forms of cellulose for food. Colonies often live in stumps and decaying logs, but are capable of invading buildings and feeding on structural wood. Subterranean termites are the most seri-ous and destructive pests of wood structures in the United States.
Before beginning a management program, the problem pest must be identified. Many people confuse winged termites with flying ants. This is because they look similar and they both swarm near structures. However, there are three physical characteristics that differen-tiate termites from flying ants: the antennae, the waists and the wings. Winged termites,
alates or swarmers, have straight antennae, thick waists and four, long, fragile wings of equal size and shape. Winged ants have elbowed antennae, a wasp-like body shape and two forewings that are larger than the two hind wings.
Three types of pest termites occur in the United States: dampwood, drywood and subterranean termites. Excellent pictorial keys have been produced that aid in identification of subterranean, drywood and dampwood termites.
Dampwood TermitesDampwood termites are not known to occur in Tennessee. In general, their distribution is limited to coastal areas of the Southern states where they infest wood saturated with water. Managing excess moisture alone may success-fully eliminate these pests.
Drywood TermitesYou will rarely find drywood termites in Ten-nessee. When you do, you can usually trace their origin to furniture or other wood im-ported into Tennessee from tropical countries or from southern regions of the United States. Drywood termites require very little mois-ture, so they live within the wood and have no connection to the soil. As they feed, they cut across the grain of wood, excavating large galleries connected by small tunnels. They produce small, cylindrical fecal pellets with six distinct depressions on the sides. These frass pellets are unique to drywood termites and are used for identification. The termites may push these pellets out of the infested wood through small holes. The homeowner often finds these pellets.
Drywood termite alates have two pair of hairless, membranous wings that are about equal in size and shape. The wings also have three or four darkened veins in the lead-ing (costal) margin of each wing. Soldiers of drywood termites either have a rectangular head, such as Kalotermes approximatus (Figure 20), or a dark, plug-shaped head, such as in Cryptotermes brevis (Figure 21). If the head is rectangular, the drywood termite’s pronotum is equal to or greater in width than the head capsule. Cryptotermes species are called pow-derpost termites because they reduce wood to a powder. They are smaller than most drywood termites.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 671
Homeowners should confirm identification of a drywood termite infestation and seek the services of a pest management professional. Most drywood termite infestations in Tennes-see are confined to a piece of wood furniture or to a specific area like a windowsill, baseboard or floor joist. Careful inspection of used furni-ture and other wood objects brought into the home and the use of pressure-treated wood are good ways to prevent an infestation.
See Table 6. Methods of Managing Dry-wood Termites.
Subterranean Termites: Biology and IdentificationSubterranean termites of the family Rhinoter-mitidae occur throughout Tennessee and are the most common termite to infest structures. Subterranean termites have strict moisture needs and therefore nest in the soil and forage underground. They can attack any untreated wood in contact with the soil. If there is no direct wood-to-soil contact, the termites can use the soil to build tunnels within the cracks of foundations or over the outside of concrete.
Part of the termite’s moisture comes from their metabolism. The rest comes from soil moisture that diffuses throughout their tunnels or tubes. Occasionally, subterranean termite infestations are found above ground, isolated from the soil. This can occur if moisture is available from a source other than the soil. Common sources of moisture include leaky pipes, air conditioning units, condensation buildup within the walls or flat roofs that col-lect debris.
Wood is mostly made of cellulose. Few animals have the necessary body chemistry to break down cellulose into smaller, more usable nutrients. Termites can accomplish this because they have protozoa in their hindgut, which is part of their intestinal system. These protozoa break down the cellulose into prod-ucts that the termites can digest. If the proto-zoa are removed, the termites will eventually die of starvation.
The most important and most prevalent subterranean termite in Tennessee is the eastern subterranean termite, Reticulitermes fla-vipes. This species is common throughout the southeastern United States. Two less common subterranean termites in Tennessee are the southeastern subterranean termite, Reticuli-
Figure 21.
Dark, Plug-Shaped Head of the Powderpost Termite
Figure 20.
Rectangular-Shaped Head of a Drywood Termite
Figure 22.
Comparison of the Three Subterranean Termite Alates. From Left to Right: The Eastern Subterranean Termite, The Southeastern Subter-ranean Termite and The Light Southeastern Subterranean Termite
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 672
termes virginicus and the light southeastern subterranean termite, Reticulitermes hageni (Figure 22).
Colony StructureSubterranean termites live in colonies below ground. The subterranean termite colony contains specialized groups of termites called castes. Each caste performs certain jobs or functions. Three castes of subterranean ter-mites are: worker, soldier and reproductive.
WorkersWorker termites are creamy-white, wing-less and eyeless insects. They are by far the most numerous in the colony. Their primary function is to perform the actual work of the colony: forage for food; maintain galleries within the wood; tend the young; and groom
and feed the king, queen and soldier termites. Termite workers are the caste most commonly seen in infested wood. Because of their small size and large numbers, they are sometimes misnamed white ants.
The workers maintain shelter tubes of mud and fecal material when foraging above ground. They close any breaks in infested wood with the same material. The mud tubes also serve as a protective barrier against their natural enemies, especially ants. These sterile termites spend their 3- to 5-year life spans contributing their work only to the colony.
SoldiersTermite soldiers are easy to identify because they are wingless, have greatly enlarged gold-en-brown heads and sword-like mandibles. There are a relatively small number of soldiers in a colony. The job of soldier termites is to guard the colony against predators, primarily ants. The soldiers are so specialized that they cannot feed themselves, so the workers feed them. Like the workers, termite soldiers are sterile. Soldiers mature within 1 year and live 3 to 5 years.
Primary ReproductivesPrimary reproductives are the future kings and queens of new subterranean termite colonies. The primary reproductives are produced in mature colonies, which are typically at least 3 years old). During the swarm season, large numbers of these reproductives swarm out of their colonies and into the air. Frequently, a homeowner’s first indication of termite infestation is having a swarm take place inside thier home. Primary reproductives that fly are called swarmers. R. flavipes often flies between March and May, while R. virginicus typically flies April through June. R. hageni, a pale-brown species, may fly from late June to October.
Secondary ReproductivesSecondary reproductives, or neotenics, are also present in mature and growing colonies. Secondary reproductives may supplement egg production in the presence of the king and queen. These reproductives are formed if the queen or king dies, begins to fail or becomes isolated from the main colony. Isolation from the main portion of the colony can occur due to application of a repellent termiticide,
Figure 23. Subterranean Termite Workers
Figure 24. Eastern Subterranean Termite Soldier
Head Capsule
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 673
which separates aboveground individuals from those belowground; flooding; drought; or physical disruption of the soil, such as during construction.
Colony FormationThe swarm is a mating dispersal flight that usually contains equal numbers of both male and female reproductives. After flight, they land, break off their wings and seek out a nest site. Subterranean termites usually excavate a burrow under trees, in decaying wood or in the soil. Swarmers that emerge indoors will die in large numbers around windows in their efforts to escape.
Once the new king and queen find a nest site, they seal themselves in and mate. Then the queen will begin to lay eggs. The first batch will be small, usually between six and 24 eggs. As the colony grows, the queen will lay increasingly larger numbers of eggs. When the queen is mature, she may lay 5,000 to 10,000 eggs per year.
In 3 to 5 years, the newly established colony may reach a mature size of 60,000 termites or more. At this point, secondary reproductives may begin to develop. The colony will increase even more rapidly as the secondary reproduc-tives start to lay eggs. As the colony forages over larger areas, satellite colonies develop that contain secondary reproductives rather than a single queen. Sometimes a number of individuals, including one or more secondary reproductives, become isolated from a well-es-tablished colony and start a new one. This type of colony formation is called budding.
Formosan Subterranean TermitesThe Formosan subterranean termite, Copto-termes formosanus, is a more aggressive feeder than the native subterranean termites. The Formosan termite originated in the Far East, probably hitchhiking to the United States in crated material following World War II. It is currently established in Alabama, California, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Louisiana, Missis-sippi, North and South Carolina, and Texas. It has been introduced to the Memphis area in the past, but is not established. Unlike the other subterranean termites that eat along the grain of the wood, the Formosan termite is less discriminating and will often hollow out a tree trunk or wooden beam. It is estimated that a Formosan subterranean termite colony can consume wood about six times as fast as an eastern subterranean termite colony. Formosan termites found in Tennessee should be reported to the Tennessee Department of Agriculture, Division of Regulatory Services.
Collecting Specimens for IdentificationAlates with wings and/or soldiers should be preserved in rubbing alcohol when submit-ted for identification. Submit at least 10 to 15 specimens. Swarmers without wings and workers are not useful in identification.
Table 6. Methods of Managing Drywood Termites
Size or extent of infestation Management method
Localized
Wood and surface applicationsMicrowaveElectrocutionWood replacementDrill-and-treat1
Info Cell Style Small items such as furniture Trailer or chamber fumigation
Extensive Fumigate structure or wood article with a toxic gas or with heat 2
1 Spray and foam applications of products such as those containing disodium octaborate tetrahydate (DOT) can be applied to raw, uncoated wood surfaces. Because penetration depths of borate solutions and depth of drywood termite galleries vary, topical applications with drill injection into infested wood should be performed. 2 To fumigate a structure with toxic gas, you must be under the supervision of a person licensed in structural fumigation (FUM) and certified in Category 7. However, you do not need a separate certification to use heat fumigation. Heat fumigation is a non-toxic method used to manage drywood termites. It works by maintaining temperatures high enough to kill termites in a wood object or structure. Heat treatments are used for a portion of a house such as an attic, porch, bedroom or individual apartment in a multi-family dwelling. Beware high temperatures can damage heat-sensitive objects inside the home.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 674
Termite DetectionDiscovering winged termites indoors almost always indicates a structural infestation war-ranting treatment. Additionally, if winged termites are seen emerging from the base of a foundation wall or adjoining porches and patios, the house may be infested. However, termite swarmers emerging from tree stumps, woodpiles and other locations out in the yard may not indicate a structural infestation.
Stone or concrete foundations of buildings offer only temporary obstacles to termites. A structural crack as small as 1/64 of an inch wide will allow termites to enter and move into the wood above. Termites can also build shel-ter tubes along the foundation to reach wood.
Cracks in concrete, continuous openings in building blocks, utility openings, expansion joints and wood below soil level all offer easy hidden access for termites. Once inside, sub-terranean termites remain hidden within the wood. Fortunately, termites can be detected by finding:
▪ Swarmers inside the structure ▪ Hollowed wood along the grain with the
spring wood fed upon and the harder summer wood left behind—results in a layered look with bits of dried mud or soil lining the feeding galleries
▪ Mud tubes that are 1/4 to 2 inches wide, about the width of a pencil. If worker termites emerge when a mud tube is broken, the infestation is active. How-ever, if no workers emerge, it does not mean the infestation is inactive. Ter-mites may abandon sections of a tube and forage elsewhere in the structure
▪ Small holes in plaster or drywall with bits of soil around the margin
▪ Rippled, puckered or sunken traces behind paint or other wall coverings- indicates termite tun-neling beneath the surface
Often, damaged wood is unnoticed because the termites leave the exterior surface of the wood intact. You can detect their galleries by tapping the wood every few inches with a screwdriver. Damaged wood will sound hollow and the screwdriver may even break through into the galleries.
Although the above signs can indicate the presence of termites, oftentimes there are no signs of termites. Because termites are cryptic creatures, infestations can go undetected for years, hidden behind walls, floor coverings, insulation and other obstructions. Damage can go undetected in exposed wood because the outer surface is usually left intact. Confirma-tion of infestation often requires a professional. However, even the most experienced inspector can overlook hidden damage or an infestation. If a termite infestation is suspected, contact a pest management professional to conduct an inspection and discuss treatment options.
The USDA Forest Service has identified 15 conditions that frequently lead to termite infestations. These conditions either provide a food resource, moisture accumulation or an
Figure 25. The Formosan Subterranean Termite
Alate, Wing and Enlarged Wing with Hairs
Figure 26. Formosan Subterranean Soldier
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 675
entry through wood-to-soil contact. If any of these conditions exist, inspect the site care-fully. Correcting these conducive conditions should be the first step in managing termites. See Tip Box, Conditions Leading to Termite Infestation, for a list of each of these condi-tions.
The above being stated, it is important to inspect buildings at least once a year for evidence of mud tubes. In concrete slab con-structions, look closely for muddy material in expansion joints, cracks and where pipes and ducts go through the slab. Also, moisture me-ters, which are available to professionals, can be used to determine areas of higher moisture content that could be indicative of termite presence. In addition, new termite detection technologies, such as canine termite detectors, acoustic emissions detectors, thermal imaging, microwave technology, etc., are making their way into the commercial workplace, but are not always widely available.
Subterranean Termite ManagementSubterranean termites are widespread throughout the United States. Because they are so abundant, prevention alone may not always protect a structure from infestation. If a structure becomes infested, additional action must be taken. Over the past few years, subter-ranean termite treatments have advanced rap-idly. When planning a management strategy, consider all current registered options.
Specialized equipment, such as sprayers with large tanks, rodding tools, large drills and safety equipment, and special knowledge are required for the proper application of termite insecticides. Knowledge of termite biology and behavior is even more crucial with the use of termite baits and experience using baits is a key component to achieving control with this method. Therefore, securing the services of a
Conditions Leading to Termite Infestation
▪ Cracks in block or concrete foundations
▪ Wooden posts or supports set in concrete in contact with the soil underneath
▪ Concrete porches filled with earth or debris
▪ Form boards left in place after the slab is poured
▪ Leaking pipes and/or air conditioning drip lines that allow moisture to accumulate at the foundation
▪ Shrubs blocking crawl space vents, reducing ventilation and/or trapping moist air
▪ Construction debris in the backfill beside the structure
▪ Low foundation walls and footings that allow wood-to-soil contact
▪ Stucco, veneer, rigid foam board insulation or other exterior insulation finishing systems (EIFS) carried below graded soil
▪ Soil-filled planters built up against the foundation wall
▪ Wooden forms left in the slab around plumbing drains and bath traps
▪ Wooden porches or deck supports in contact with the soil.
▪ Heating units in the crawl space, which maintain warm soil temperatures for termites year-round
▪ Paper collars around pipes and ducts- provide access to the structure ▪ Wooden fences, trellises and landscaping materials against the side of the structure ▪ Cellulose mulches, such as wood or bark chips and others of plant origin, placed
against the foundation give termites access to the home without having to contact the termiticide barrier that has been applied next to the foundation
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 676
reliable pest management professional is advis-able in almost all cases.
Subterranean Termite BaitsTermite baiting takes a different approach to subterranean termite management than chemical barriers. Instead of protecting a structure by creating a barrier between it and the termites, baiting attempts to suppress or kill the termite colony in the soil. Commercial termite baits are a relatively new technology. The most widely used baits are applied below-ground. The following information describes, in general, a standard application process.
First, bait stations are inserted into the ground around the outside of the structure approximately at regular intervals of about 10 to15 feet. Inside the bait stations are untreated pieces of wood called monitors. Monitors are inspected for termite activity on a regular basis, according to the label. If live termites are found in the monitors, the monitors are replaced with toxic bait or bait is added to the station. The idea is to get the termites that are already foraging on the wood monitor to pick up the bait. Some bait products can be used by themselves, while others can be used in combination with a spot chemical treatment or a complete barrier.
Because the belowground bait stations are placed outside the structure, they do not di-rectly affect termites that are already foraging inside. Termites might find the baits within a few days or it may take over a year for termites to find the outside stations. To address inside infestations, certain commercially available baits come in aboveground stations. In general, these stations are plastic boxes that contain a paper matrix laced with termiticide. These boxes are attached over a termite mud tube or directly onto infested wood. The termites for-age inside these boxes and consume the paper bait. Once control has been achieved, it is absolutely necessary that monitoring continue with a baiting system. This is because unless a soil termiticide has also been applied, there is no residual treatment in place.
Professional Termite Baiting Systems
Advantages: ▪ Baits are environmentally friendly- they
place much less active ingredient into the environment than the liquid in-secticides used in barrier treatments
▪ Termite baits are ideal for use around structures inhabited by people with chemical sensitivities
▪ When an infested structure is within 50 feet of a well or 100 feet of a body of water, termite baits may be the only treatment option
▪ Provides a treatment option when barrier treatments have failed to provide satisfactory control
Disadvantages: ▪ It may take months or even more
than a year before baiting can begin ▪ Professional baiting systems are gen-
erally more expensive than barrier treatments due to monitoring costs
▪ When used alone, termite-baiting systems do not protect the structure directly-termites feeding within the structure will continue to do so until the colony is eliminated or they are man-aged with an aboveground station
Choosing a Pest Management Company
One of the most important steps to obtaining control of a termite infestation is procuring the services of a trained and experienced pest management professional. The following tips can serve as a guide for selecting professional help:
▪ Ask for referrals from trusted ac-quaintances that were satisfied with their termite treatment
▪ Call at least three of these pest man-agement companies and ask for price quotes, the chemical to be used and how the company plans to treat your house
▪ If a company conducts an inspec-tion get copies of the inspection let-ter and map, keep these records
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 677
▪ Read the contract carefully because different options are available; some companies will offer to re-treat if there is a failure, while others may provide an additional damage repair clause
▪ An annual renewal fee for inspec-tions is usually offered; it is usually a good idea to contract for this service
▪ Study the bids, a description of the work to be done and details of any guaran-tees, and then make your decision
▪ Be wary of prices that seem too low because highly specialized equipment and training is needed to manage ter-mites; a low bid may mean low quality
▪ In most cases, the materials to be used for termite management are only avail-able to a certified applicator; therefore, the certified applicator should posses a certification card and a charter number should be present on a company’s truck to indicate the Tennessee Department of Agriculture has licensed the owner
▪ Finally, do not feel pressured into sign-ing a contract immediately because termite damage occurs slowly; thus, the amount of damage caused by taking an additional day, week or month to make an informed decision is insignificant
Wood-Destroying BeetlesMany insects use trees as a food source and harborage. It is when this wood is brought into homes that we become concerned about their presence. Most beetles and other insects will not re-infest wood once it is dried or seasoned; however, there are some insects that do.
By using the acronym ALBOW it is easy to recall which beetles infest seasoned wood: A is for anobiid powderpost beetle, L is for lyctid powderpost beetle, B is for bostrichid powder-post beetle, O is for old house borer and W is for wharf borer or weevils. Wharf borers and weevils are of little significance in Tennessee and are not discussed further.
Insects that Can Re-Infest Structural WoodsPowderpost BeetlesThere are three families of powderpost beetles, all of which may reinfest seasoned wood. The most common are the anobiid and lyctid powderpost beetles. Small, shot hole exit openings in the wood surfaces are sometimes an indication of a powderpost beetle infesta-tion. Anobiid powderpost beetles attack both softwood and hardwoods that can be decades old. Lyctid powderpost beetles only attack ring-porous hardwoods that are typically younger than 10 years. Thus, they are found in hardwood flooring, molding and furniture that fit the above criteria.
Old House BorersThe old house borer, which is a member of the longhorned beetle family, attacks only the sapwood of pine and other softwoods. This species is unusual in that it will re-infest structural wood, unlike other common mem-bers of its family. In Tennessee it has been particularly troublesome in its attacks on new pine log homes, and it is sometimes destruc-tive to sheeting, siding or porch flooring that has been exposed to high humidity, water leaks or blowing rains. Indoor infestations are infrequently encountered in Tennessee, but old house borers are occasionally built into new structures and can remain active for many years, even under conditions of low ambient humidity. Re-infestation, however, is unlikely under these conditions. See Table 9 for de-scriptions and more information on these and powderpost beetles.
See Table 7. Wood-infesting beetles.
Powderpost and Old House Borer Management
Active or Not?It is important to determine if infestations are active because powderpost beetle populations can die of natural causes. There are several ways to determine if an infestation is active or not. One way is to mark or seal existing holes, sweep or vacuum all powder, then recheck the wood for new holes at a later date. It may be best to wait until spring or early summer to in-spect for fresh frass or new holes. Powderpost beetles damage wood slowly, so homeowners
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 678
should not feel the urgency to act immedi-ately to ensure the structural integrity of their home.
PreventionMany powderpost beetle infestations oc-cur when people use old lumber from a barn or woodpile to panel a room or to add onto a structure. For this reason, lumber that has been improperly dried or stored should not be used, especially if exit holes are present. Females lay eggs only on unfinished surfaces; therefore, if wood is painted, varnished, waxed or otherwise sealed, it is often safe from at-tack as long as no exposed edges are present. Unfinished wood can be protected by painting or other finishing practices. Beetles emerging from painted wood were present in the wood prior to painting. Beetles can re-infest painted surfaces by laying eggs in previous emergence holes. Seal exit holes to prevent this from happening.
Alternative ManagementsTemperature ModificationSmall items, such as picture frames, can be heated to 120 to 140 degrees F for 6 hours to kill existing life stages. Freezing infested wood for 72 hours will also kill all life stages.
Moisture ManagementWood moisture below 14 percent during spring and summer will thwart anobiid devel-opment and re-infestation. Moisture barriers can be used in damp crawl spaces and polyeth-ylene sheeting can be used to cover 70 to 80 percent of the soil in the crawl space. However, it is important to leave a 12-inch bare soil zone next to the foundation. Moisture rising from the soil around the perimeter will be exhausted through the foundation vents. Most building standards recommend 1 square foot of vent opening per 150 square feet of crawl space soil area. Professionals should use a moisture meter to indicate the moisture content of the wood and, therefore, the possible susceptibility to powderpost beetles.
Wood ReplacementBoards, sheets of paneling, etc., may be re-placed if all evidence indicates the infestation is localized. If new holes are found in adjacent areas, other action is needed, see other meth-ods in this section.
BoratesSome formulations containing borates have the potential to penetrate and kill larvae in the wood, as well as those beetles entering or exit-ing the wood surface. Topical treatment must be made to unfinished surfaces because borates will not penetrate paint or varnish. However, they can penetrate a water-repellent stain if the water repellency is broken. Pressure washing prior to borate application may break down the water-repellent seal. Joists, sills, rafters, subflooring, studs, decking and siding are excellent candidates for the borate treatment. If hardwood floors are infested, the finish must be removed/sanded prior to borate application.
Other Residual InsecticidesSeveral insecticides are labeled for treatment of beetle-infested wood. In general, spraying or brushing these products onto wood surfaces may slightly penetrate the wood. Adult pow-derpost beetles will be killed as they exit the treated wood, as will larvae attempting to bore into the wood. Wall voids can also be foamed, but avoid foaming near electrical sources.
FumigationInsecticides that are painted or sprayed onto surfaces can be used only if the infested wood is accessible for treatment. If infestations have spread into walls or between floors and foam-ing is not feasible because of electrical sources, fumigation may be needed. Fumigation is costly and should only be considered as a last resort. Early detection can prevent the need for fumigation and allow the use of other methods to manage these pests, as mentioned above.
If only furniture, antiques and other smaller articles are infested, they can be fumigated at a lower cost than fumigating an entire building. This can often be done within a sealed tent, tarp, trailer or vault to maintain gas concentra-tions at high levels. A pest control operator licensed to fumigate is needed for this opera-tion.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 679
Insects That Utilize Structural Wood for Nesting SitesCarpenter AntsCarpenter ants, Camponotus spp., are widely distributed throughout the United States and are one of the largest common ants. There are about 10 species of carpenter ants in Tennes-see. These ants may be black, reddish-orange, golden, reddish-orange or black. The most commonly observed carpenter ant is Campono-tus pennsylvanicus, or the black carpenter ant. This ant is dark brown to black and ¼ to ½ inch in length. Queens may be ¾ inch or more
in length. Carpenter ant workers have an even-ly rounded thorax. This distinguishes them from Formica ants, which have an indented thorax when viewed from the side.
Carpenter ants, like carpenter bees, do not eat wood; they use wood for nesting. Carpen-ter ant nesting in itself is not likely to cause extensive structural damage. Presence of car-penter ants, however, might indicate existence of a more serious problem. This is because these insects are attracted to moist or decayed wood. They are frequently found in structural hardwood or softwood that has become wet due to a water leak, poor drainage or poor ventilation. However, carpenter ants may later move into sound, dry lumber. They will even nest in existing cavities without causing any structural damage. In structures, they often nest in porch columns, roofs, windowsills, hollow-core doors, wood scraps in dirt-filled porches and wood in contact with soil. Their nests are occasionally associated with window-sills and surrounding timbers where blowing rains have provided the moisture necessary for softening and decay. Frequently, carpenter ant infestations are more of a carpentry problem than a pest management problem.
Carpenter ants feed on honeydew excreted by aphids, other insects, animal remains and household food scraps. Carpenter ants exca-vate galleries in the wood to rear their young. Carpenter ants eject the chewed wood from their mouths in the form of coarse sawdust. Their nests consist of interconnecting, irregu-lar galleries (Figure 27) that are kept free of debris. The gallery walls are smooth, as though they had been sanded with fine-grit sandpa-per. In addition to the adults, clusters of white eggs, larvae and pupae will be present in active colonies. Outside the nest, debris that has been removed from the galleries, including coarse boring dust and uneaten insect parts (Figure 28), is usually evident. The unique makeup of debris that collects beneath ant-infested wood can be the first clue to the identity of the insects living in the wood. Materials expelled from galleries of other types of wood-destroy-ing insects consist only of boring dust, which is sometimes mixed with fecal pellets.
Figure 27. Carpenter Ant Nests
Figure 28. Debris Evident Outside the Nest
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 680
Management of Carpenter AntsThe key to the management of carpenter ants is locating their nest(s). Unfortunately, this is often difficult because the nest is usually well hidden. However, if you can locate it, there is an excellent chance of managing the ants. Eliminating a nest outdoors may be just as im-portant as eliminating one inside the building. In some cases, an entire colony may migrate from one nesting site to another, such as from a tree outdoors to structural timber indoors. As an aid to finding indoor carpenter ant nests, examine these suggested locations:
▪ Wood affected by water seepage, such as porch floors, posts, columns and roofs
▪ Wood in contact with soil ▪ Wood adjacent to dirt-filled slab porches
▪ Hollow doors, curtain rods, appli-ances and electrical equipment
▪ Firewood piled in garag-es or next to a house
▪ Stumps, logs and trees that might contain nests
▪ Trees with branches hanging over and touching the roof of a house because ants may travel over these branches, and electric and phone lines into the building
Some signs to look for when inspecting for a carpenter ant nest indoors are:
▪ Piles of coarse sawdust containing ant body parts on the floor or foundation
▪ Sounds of crinkled cellophane pro-duced by alarmed workers in the walls
▪ Ant activity—Ants frequently forage for food in kitchens. However, even when the nest is in a building, you may see only a few ants. This is because the ants are active at night and often forage outside
Using Attractants to Locate the NestThe general vicinity of a carpenter ant nest can often be located by placing an attractant such as a small dab of honey, maple or corn syrup, either alone or mixed with crickets or meal-worms, in the area(s) where ants have been seen. Carpenter ants feed more on proteins, crickets or mealworms, in the spring and more on carbohydrates, honeys and syrups, in the fall. The best time to set out the attractant is late at night because this is when carpenter ants are most active. After the ants have fed on the attractant, follow them on their journey back to their nest. Foragers usually return to the nest in a straight line (Figure 29). A red lens on a flashlight may allow observation of the ants without disturbing them. To mini-mize the mess made by the attractant, place it onto small squares of wax paper, index cards or on the non-sticky sides of pieces of masking tape.
Carpenter ants seen in the home may actu-ally be nesting outdoors and foraging indoors for food and water. Once an outdoor nest is discovered, it can be baited, sprayed, drenched, dusted or foamed with an insecticide labeled for that site. If the nest is located indoors, there are several options: baiting, dusting pipe and other wall penetrations, and direct treat-
Figure 29.
Placement of an Attractant Where Ants Have Been Seen Foraging and Visualize a Straight Line as They Return to the Nest.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 681
Tabl
e 7.
Woo
d-in
fest
ing
beet
les
Shap
e an
d Si
ze (i
nche
s)
of E
xit/
Entr
y H
ole
AG
E; a
nd
Type
of W
ood
Att
acke
d
App
eara
nce
of F
rass
in
Tun
nels
Re
infe
st s
easo
ned
woo
dIn
sect
Typ
eId
enti
ficat
ion
char
acte
rsCo
mm
ents
Roun
d 1/
50
1/8
NEW
; de
ad o
r w
eake
ned
tree
s or
un
seas
oned
lo
gs o
f ha
rdw
oods
an
d so
ftw
oods
Gal
lerie
s ar
e fr
ee o
f bo
ring
dust
.; Sp
ores
of
fung
i(am
bros
ia)
are
carr
ied
into
the
galle
ries
by a
ttac
king
ad
ults
. Lar
vae
feed
ing
on th
e fu
ngi.
Fung
i sta
in th
e w
ood
blui
sh-b
lack
.
No
Am
bros
ia b
eetle
s Pl
atyp
odid
Adul
t: cy
lindr
ical
and
th
eir a
nten
nae
are
elbo
wed
and
term
inat
e in
an
expa
nded
clu
b.
The
plat
ypod
id a
mbr
osia
be
etle
s ar
e m
uch
elon
gate
d, a
nd th
eir
ante
nnae
are
elb
owed
an
d te
rmin
ate
in a
muc
h ex
pand
ed, fl
atte
ned,
one
-se
gmen
ted
club
.
Caus
e al
arm
whe
n ad
ults
em
erge
fr
om fi
rew
ood
with
in h
omes
and
co
llect
on
win
dow
sills
or i
n lig
ht
fixtu
res.
No
cont
rol n
eede
d be
caus
e th
ey a
re n
ot re
infe
stin
g. U
se a
va
cuum
to c
olle
ct a
dults
.
Roun
d 1/
32
1/16
OLD
; Ri
ng p
orou
s ha
rdw
ood:
oa
k, h
icko
ry,
ash,
wal
nut,
peca
n an
d m
any
trop
ical
ha
rdw
oods
Fine
, flou
r lik
e,
loos
ely
pack
ed
Yes,
lyct
ids
rare
ly
infe
st w
ood
olde
r th
an 1
0 ye
ars
(sta
rch
grea
ter t
hen
3 pe
rcen
t pr
efer
red)
usu
ally
lim
ited
to h
ardw
ood
pane
ling,
trim
, fu
rnitu
re, a
nd fl
oorin
g.
Lyct
id b
eetle
s
Adul
t: 1/
8 to
1/4
inch
in
leng
th; r
eddi
sh b
row
n to
bla
ck. H
ead
prot
rude
s fo
rwar
d an
d is
vis
ible
fr
om a
bove
; an
tenn
ae
have
a 2
-seg
men
ted
club
.La
rva:
Bre
athi
ng p
ore
clos
est t
o th
e en
d of
the
body
dis
tinct
ly la
rger
th
an th
e ot
her l
arva
l br
eath
ing
pore
s.
In n
early
all
case
s, in
fest
atio
ns w
ere
from
woo
d th
at c
onta
ined
egg
s or
larv
ae a
t the
tim
e it
was
use
d in
the
hom
e. G
ener
al in
fest
atio
n of
a b
uild
ing
is u
nlik
ely,
and
tim
ely
repl
acem
ent a
nd d
ispo
sal
of m
ater
ials
(e.g
., pi
eces
of t
rim
or fu
rnitu
re) o
bvio
usly
infe
sted
by
lyct
ids
ofte
n w
ill e
limin
ate
an
infe
stat
ion
alto
geth
er.
Roun
d 1/
16
3/32
NEW
; Bar
k/sa
pwoo
d in
terf
ace
of
man
y ki
nds
of h
ardw
ood
and
soft
woo
d tr
ees.
Fine
to c
oars
e, b
ark
colo
red,
tigh
tly
pack
edN
o
Bark
bee
tles
Adul
t: cy
lindr
ical
and
th
eir a
nten
nae
are
elbo
wed
and
term
inat
e in
an
exp
ande
d cl
ub.
Caus
e al
arm
whe
n ad
ults
em
erge
fr
om fi
rew
ood
with
in h
omes
and
co
llect
on
win
dow
sills
or i
n lig
ht
fixtu
res.
No
cont
rol n
eede
d be
caus
e th
ey a
re n
ot re
infe
stin
g. U
se a
va
cuum
to c
olle
ct a
dults
.
Tabl
e Fo
otno
te: N
EW is
defi
ned
as s
tand
ing
or fr
eshl
y fe
lled
tree
s an
d un
seas
oned
lum
ber.
Soft
woo
ds a
re a
lso
know
n as
con
ifers
and
typi
cally
hav
e ne
edle
-like
leav
es, a
re e
verg
reen
and
col
umna
r in
form
. Pin
e, h
emlo
ck, c
edar
and
redw
ood
are
com
mon
so
ftw
oods
. Har
dwoo
ds ty
pica
lly h
ave
broa
d le
aves
, she
d al
l lea
ves
at o
nce
and
are
broa
d-fo
rmed
with
a s
prea
ding
cro
wn.
Oak
, ash
, hic
kory
and
yel
low
-pop
lar a
re c
omm
on h
ardw
oods
. The
hea
rtw
ood
is th
e da
rker
cen
ter o
f the
tree
com
pose
d of
cel
ls th
at a
re n
o lo
nger
livi
ng, b
ut p
rovi
de m
echa
nica
l sup
port
to th
e tr
ee. T
he s
apw
ood
is lo
cate
d cl
ose
to th
e ba
rk o
f the
tree
and
is a
ligh
ter-
colo
red
tissu
e th
at tr
ansp
orts
wat
er a
nd n
utrie
nts
in a
livi
ng tr
ee.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 682
Tabl
e 7.
Woo
d-in
fest
ing
beet
les
Shap
e an
d Si
ze (i
nche
s)
of E
xit/
Entr
y H
ole
AG
E; a
nd
Type
of W
ood
Att
acke
d
App
eara
nce
of F
rass
in
Tun
nels
Re
infe
st s
easo
ned
woo
dIn
sect
Typ
eId
enti
ficat
ion
char
acte
rsCo
mm
ents
Roun
d 1/
16
1/8
NEW
and
O
LD;
Soft
woo
d &
ha
rdw
ood
Fine
pow
der w
ith
pelle
ts, l
oose
ly
pack
ed; p
elle
ts m
ay
be a
bsen
t and
fras
s tig
htly
pac
ked
in
som
e ha
rdw
oods
Yes,
ofte
n oc
cur
in b
asem
ents
, cr
awls
pace
s ba
rns
and
othe
r unh
eate
d st
ruct
ures
whe
re
moi
stur
e co
nten
t of
the
woo
d is
hig
h. T
hey
can
infe
st a
nd re
mai
n ac
tive
in w
ood
that
ha
s be
en in
ser
vice
for
deca
des.
Ano
biid
bee
tles
imag
e
Adul
t: 1/
8 to
1/4
inch
in
leng
th a
nd a
re re
ddis
h br
own
to n
early
bla
ck;
hood
like
pron
otum
co
ncea
ls th
e he
ad w
hen
view
ed fr
om a
bove
and
w
ing
cove
rs a
re fi
nely
gr
oove
d
Cont
rol c
an b
e ac
hiev
ed b
y bo
th c
hem
ical
and
non
chem
ical
m
etho
ds. U
sual
ly c
entr
al h
eat
and
air r
educ
es w
ood
moi
stur
e so
ther
e is
insu
ffici
ent m
oist
ure
cont
ent t
o su
ppor
t ext
ensi
ve
infe
stat
ions
in li
ving
and
att
ic a
reas
. If
favo
rabl
e co
nditi
ons
of m
oist
ure
and
tem
pera
ture
exi
st, i
nfes
tatio
ns
can
spre
ad v
ertic
ally
into
wal
ls a
nd
uppe
r lev
els
of a
str
uctu
re. S
ourc
es
of a
nobi
id b
eetle
s ar
e in
fest
ed
lum
ber,
beet
les
flyin
g in
from
ou
tdoo
rs, o
r fire
woo
d. P
owde
rpos
t be
etle
s ar
e sl
ow g
row
ers,
that
can
re
infe
st e
very
yea
r.
Roun
d 3/
32
9/32
NEW
; So
ftw
ood
&
hard
woo
d (b
ambo
o)
Fine
to c
oars
e po
wde
r, tig
htly
pa
cked
Rare
ly, n
ativ
e TN
sp
ecie
s do
not
re
infe
st, e
xotic
spe
cies
m
ay; b
ambo
o bo
rer
com
mon
ly d
amag
es
bam
boo
prod
ucts
, es
peci
ally
bas
kets
br
ough
t to
TN fr
om th
e O
rient
Bost
richi
d be
etle
s
imag
e
Adul
t: 1/
8 to
1/4
inch
in
leng
th a
nd a
re re
ddis
h br
own
to n
early
bla
ck;
hood
like
pron
otum
co
ncea
ls th
e he
ad w
hen
view
ed fr
om a
bove
and
w
ing
cove
rs a
re fi
nely
gr
oove
d
Bost
richi
ds ra
rely
cau
se s
igni
fican
t da
mag
e in
fram
ing
lum
ber a
nd
prim
arily
affe
ct in
divi
dual
pie
ces
of h
ardw
ood
floor
ing
or tr
im.
Repl
acem
ent o
f str
uctu
rally
w
eake
ned
mem
bers
is u
sual
ly th
e m
ost e
cono
mic
al a
nd e
ffect
ive
cont
rol m
etho
d.
Roun
d ov
al
1/8
3/8
Ova
l 1/8
1/
2 O
val 1
/4
3/8
NEW
and
O
LD;
Soft
woo
d
Very
fine
pow
der
& p
elle
ts, t
ight
ly
pac
ked;
woo
d su
rfac
e of
gal
lerie
s ap
pear
s to
hav
e a
wav
y or
ripp
led
text
ure
Fig.
Yes
Old
hou
se b
orer
adul
t im
age
larv
al im
age
Adul
t: 3/
4 in
ch lo
ng, d
ark
brow
n to
bla
ck b
odie
s, ra
ised
are
a on
eac
h si
de
of th
e pr
onot
um a
nd
indi
stin
ct g
ray
cros
s ba
nds
on th
e w
ing
cove
rs.
Larv
a: 3
eye
spo
ts to
left
an
d rig
ht o
f man
dibl
es;
as la
rva
grow
s, th
eir
chew
ing
can
be h
eard
as
a ti
ckin
g or
rasp
ing
soun
d.
Larv
al d
evel
opm
ent u
sual
ly ta
kes
thre
e to
six
yea
rs, i
t may
be
as
shor
t as
two
year
s or
as
long
as
10
year
s de
pend
ing
on e
nviro
nmen
tal
cond
ition
s. M
oist
ure
cont
ent o
f 15
to 2
5 pe
rcen
t and
pro
tein
con
tent
of
0.2
per
cent
are
con
side
red
idea
l co
nditi
ons
for l
arva
l dev
elop
men
t.
Old
hou
se b
orer
s ar
e of
ten
foun
d in
ho
uses
that
are
less
than
10
year
s ol
d, h
ence
thei
r nam
e is
a m
isno
mer
.
Tabl
e Fo
otno
te: N
EW is
defi
ned
as s
tand
ing
or fr
eshl
y fe
lled
tree
s an
d un
seas
oned
lum
ber.
Soft
woo
ds a
re a
lso
know
n as
con
ifers
and
typi
cally
hav
e ne
edle
-like
leav
es, a
re e
verg
reen
and
col
umna
r in
form
. Pin
e, h
emlo
ck, c
edar
and
redw
ood
are
com
mon
so
ftw
oods
. Har
dwoo
ds ty
pica
lly h
ave
broa
d le
aves
, she
d al
l lea
ves
at o
nce
and
are
broa
d-fo
rmed
with
a s
prea
ding
cro
wn.
Oak
, ash
, hic
kory
and
yel
low
-pop
lar a
re c
omm
on h
ardw
oods
. The
hea
rtw
ood
is th
e da
rker
cen
ter o
f the
tree
com
pose
d of
cel
ls th
at a
re n
o lo
nger
livi
ng, b
ut p
rovi
de m
echa
nica
l sup
port
to th
e tr
ee. T
he s
apw
ood
is lo
cate
d cl
ose
to th
e ba
rk o
f the
tree
and
is a
ligh
ter-
colo
red
tissu
e th
at tr
ansp
orts
wat
er a
nd n
utrie
nts
in a
livi
ng tr
ee.
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 683
ment of the nest. Carpenter ant baits should only be placed where carpenter ants are forag-ing or where their activity has been noted. Residual insecticides labeled for carpenter ants may also be used. However, baits are preferred for indoor treatments because of their low toxicity and reduced exposure risk.
If a nest is located indoors, but ants con-tinue to forage outdoors, a perimeter treatment with a slow-acting, non-repellent insecticide, such as fipronil, may also provide control. The carpenter ants cross the treated zone and do not detect the non-repellent insecticide. The ants die slowly and may contaminate nest mates. This technique has been very successful in the northwestern United States. Currently, liquid formulations of fipronil are only avail-able to pest management professionals.
Carpenter BeesCarpenter bees resemble large bumblebees except that the abdomen of bumblebees has a dense covering of hairs (Figure 30). In the spring, carpenter bees become a nuisance as they fly erratically, close to homes and other buildings. Males hover like hummingbirds, waiting for females to emerge so they can mate. If the males are disturbed, they may hover or buzz around the head of a person. Only the females sting if you provoke them. After the mating season, carpenter bees spend most of the summer loitering around the nest or nearby flowers.
Aside from the nuisance of having carpen-ter bees around, they also bore into seasoned woods, especially softwoods such as cedar, redwood, pine and fir. Bees may damage soft or weathered wood on porches, decks, shed ceilings, railings, overhead trim, porch furniture, dead tree limbs, fence posts, wooden shingles, wood siding, window sills and wood doors.
In the spring, female bees bore brood chambers into the wood where they will lay their eggs and the young will develop. The bee begins the chamber by boring a large circular hole, about 2 inches wide, into the wood. After boring against the grain, they turn sharply and bore along the wood grain for 4 to 6 inches. Boring dust beneath the circular entrance to the gallery is sometimes the first evidence of the bee’s activities.
The female provides her tunnel-nest with bee bread, which is a mixture of pollen and regurgitated nectar. This serves as food for the larvae when the eggs hatch. She makes a cell for each larva and closes each cell with chewed wood pulp. There may be as many as six to eight cells in the tunnel or gallery. The time required to complete development from egg to adult varies from 1 to 3 months. Newly formed adult bees usually emerge in late August. These bees overwinter in galleries and will mate the following spring and start the cycle over.
Structural damage caused by one or two carpenter bees is slight. However, later broods may reuse and lengthen old tunnels. The activities of numerous bees, over a period of years, will cause structural damage. Carpenter bees are less likely to attack painted wood. Therefore, keeping all exposed wood surfaces painted is a good preventative measure. How-ever, keep in mind that wood stains will not prevent carpenter bee damage.
Management of Carpenter BeesTreat carpenter bee brood chambers with insecticidal dusts, wettable powders, microen-capsulations or residual aerosol formulations. Apply the insecticide to the tunnel entrance in the evening when the bees are less active. Dusts are a preferred formulation because they coat the surface of the wood and are not absorbed like liquid formulations. The adult bee will die a day or two after passing freely over the insecticide-treated surface. Once the adult bee has died, seal the hole with a wooden dowel coated with suitable sealants, such as carpenter’s glue or wood putty, to prevent re-infestation, moisture intrusion and wood decay. In the fall, re-inspect for new galler-ies and treat and seal as necessary to prevent carpenter bees from overwintering in galleries. Repaint the sealed area to prevent woodpecker damage.
Figure 30. Carpenter Bee
Tennessee Master Gardener Handbook 684
SummaryThis chapter has taught you about household pests. After learning the material in this chap-ter, you should be able to successfully identify common household and structural pests, rec-ognize the damage caused by common house-hold and structural pests, understand how to manage household and structural pests, and understand how the behavior and life cycles of these pests influences their management.
Terms To KnowAdulticideObligate ectoparasitesBuddingCephalothoraxEncephalitidesExclusionHarborageHEPAImmaturesInsect growth regulators (IGRs)InsecticideIntegrated Pest Management or IPMPheromoneNon-reproductiveOothecaPre-emergentRepellentReproductivesTermiticideTrophallaxis
Test Your Knowledge1. Name three chemical-free methods of
managing household pests.
2. Cockroach bait stations are most effective when __________.
3. To effectively treat for fly infestation, what should be a major concern?
4. Which is the most serious and destructive pest of wooden structures in the U.S.?
5. How can one manage a brown recluse spider infestation?
ResourcesThe pest management information provided
in this chapter has been modified from the Tennessee Extension publication, PB1303 Managing Pests Around the Home. Information in this chapter is also from publications for the pest management professional, PB1732 Category 7 Industrial, Institutional, Structural and Health-related Pest Management Certification Training Manual; PB1673, General Rodent and Pest Control Licensing Manual and PB1703, Wood-destroying Organisms Licensing Manual.
Current pesticide recommendations can be found in PB1690 Insect and Plant Disease Control Manual. The Entomology and Plant Pathology Department produces this manual annually. It can be found at eppserver.ag.utk.edu/redbook/redbook.htm
Household pest publications on the UT Extension web siteutextension.tennessee.edu
Household Pests, University of FLedis.ifas.ufl.edu/
Structural, Industrial and Medical Insects, University of Kentuckyuky.edu/Agriculture/Entomology/entfacts/efstruc.htm
Imported Fire Ants in Tennesseefireants.utk.edu
For information on Lyme diseasewww.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvbid/lyme/index.htm