38 | TRAVELLER | SEPTEMBER 10

WEEKENDER | MALTA

FRIDAYAs a party lover, when I heard about Malta’s nightlife fast becoming a rival to Ibiza, I couldn’t believe it and had to see for myself. So I took off for the island better known for its World War-II history than Ministry of Sound with fi ve girl friends and an open

mind. What inevitably followed was the start of a rollicking retox that led me to Malta’s edgiest nightspots during one brilliant sleep-deprived weekend.

We’d booked into the Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay (from €233, book at hotels.easyJet.com) – a fabulous fi ve-star spa resort which sits conveniently at the top of a winding hill north of Paceville and St Julian’s, the main areas for nightlife. It was a decision that proved invaluable as we tottered back at all hours in our four-inch heels.

After admiring the pretty view of the bay from our balconies we donned our bikinis and wandered down to the sandy stretch

of beach; a hotspot for sunbathing in the daytime, or beach parties after dark.

St George’s Bay was still dotted with small groups at around seven that evening as we curved round it in a taxi to Al Molo restaurant (Marina di Portomaso, St Julian’s, tel: +356 2138 4300), in Malta’s most exclusive manmade marina. We were in for a real treat at this high-end Italian, specialising in pasta and fi sh dishes such as fresh tuna with a couscous fl an, and homemade tagliolini alla pescatora.

Afterwards we clip-clopped back to the coast road where Bedouin Bar (Westin, Dragonara Road, St Julian’s) was the fi rst

Deborah Hatch uncovers one of Europe’s hippest clubbing destinations in the unlikely surroundings of the small, historic island that is Malta

Here, for a night on the town VIP-style, Malta’sBedouin Bar fi ts the bill

38-44_ej_weekendersMC_CM.indd 3838-44_ej_weekendersMC_CM.indd 38 12/08/2010 13:2112/08/2010 13:21

SEPTEMBER 10 | TRAVELLER | 39

WEEKENDER | MALTA

venue on our hit list. The crisp white linen sails of the two Bali Champagne Huts – which can be hired for parties of 10 (€100 minimum spend) – were clearly visible on the shoreline. As we drew closer, the queue heaved with designer-clad boys and glamorous girls in skimpy dresses. We were met with what was to prove a typically warm Maltese welcome, as Darryn Portelli, one of Malta’s leading promoters, led us inside.

“Malta can rival Ibiza with our level of service alone because we have more fi ve-star resorts, a wider choice of restaurants, and better bar and club prices,” said Darryn, cutting to the chase, as the girls and I sipped

on vodka tonics (€3.50). “People I know start at St Tropez, before coming to Malta and going on to Ibiza. It’s cheap here, so they can afford to do it all.”

By 11.30pm the place was packed. As Malta is a popular destination for English-language students, a blend of Scandinavians, Germans, Italians, Brits and locals mingled together. In the VIP area, a crew of wealthy Russians danced on the white leather chairs, while raucous groups of tanned, good-looking boys and girls spilled out of the Bali huts and into the main throng of revellers.

As the music switched to house anthems such as Pride (A Deeper Love) by Kid

Massive & Jolly and Something’s Going On by Prok & Fitch vs Todd Terry, a welcome breeze swept in from the sea and us girls got our vodka-induced groove on. Spotting the sexy strut of a nearby “fembot” (almost inhumanly perfect) I couldn’t resist a sassy dance-off, busting enough moves to leave Cheryl Cole howling with envy and my friends crying with laughter.

At 2am we followed the dolled-up crowd to 22 (Level 22, Portomaso Business Tower) home of Malta’s VIP after-parties. With great views across the skyline and the odd celeb sighting, there’s plenty to see here… if you are sober enough to notice!

RETOXWEEKEND IN

MALTA

DETOXWEEKEND IN

KOS

38-44_ej_weekendersMC_CM.indd 3938-44_ej_weekendersMC_CM.indd 39 12/08/2010 13:2212/08/2010 13:22

40 | TRAVELLER | SEPTEMBER 10

WEEKENDER | MALTA

SATURDAY Peeling myself off the bed sheets after what felt like fi ve minutes’ sleep, I rushed downstairs – hair scraped back and shades fi rmly on – to join the girls for our jaunt to Ta’ Xbiex Marina and a private yacht charter (from €260; boatlinkmalta.com). We were all in much the same sorry state and the prospect of lazing on a sun-drenched, breezy deck with a cheeky glass of vino was, quite frankly, amazing.

Hiring a boat complete with your own skipper is a great way of getting acquainted with Malta and its sister islands Gozo and Comino. We went one better, inviting our own chef, Oliver Grech (€130 per day; Southport, Marsaxlokk, tel: +356 9947 4197). After lunch was served at the Blue Lagoon we dived into the Med for a refreshing dip – the perfect hangover cure! I would however advise keeping well hydrated when you’re out at sea for the day… and that means 0% proof.

Back on dry land, we glammed up again and headed down to the bustling district of Paceville, lined with mainstream bars and clubs over-spilling with punters. Cutting through the central drag, we headed straight to Bar Celona (Wilga Street, tel: +356 2733 3395) Malta’s newest lounge bar, for tapas – the island’s latest dining trend. Soon we were sharing prawn and bacon brochettes, spicy chicken wings and even snack-size portions

of rabbit stew, washed down with well-mixed cocktails and tequilas to crank the evening up a gear. Then it was on to Q Bar (Vault 1, Valletta Waterfront) in picturesque Valletta for sunset cocktails along the bright, white stone waterfront.

At around 11pm our taxi to Gianpula (Gianpula Road, Rabat), Malta’s largest open-air club, arrived. Twenty minutes out of town and in what felt like the middle of the desert, Gianpula is a combination of fi ve different clubbing areas in one. Steffan Cheriet Busuttil, another of the island’s leading promoters, whisked us straight into one of the clubs, Marrakech (€10 entry or free by invitation at privepromo.com) – a stylish 800-capacity open-air enclave. “The open-air clubs here are among the best and most beautiful in the world,” Steffan told me, fi shing a bottle of Absolut from an ice trough that also bore several cans of Red Bull. “The biggest international guests play here every year, including DJs Paul Oakenfold,

Tiesto, Juan Diaz and the Swedish House Mafi a, and dance legends Faithless at Gianpula this summer.”

It sounded good to me, and even better several drinks later as my friend Anne and I did laps of the club as the tunes took off. I remember that dancing under the stars with a cool breeze rushing through the club’s trees, surrounded by beautiful people was a great feeling. The rest became a neon-lit blur.

SUNDAY Waking up dazed from literally three hours’ sleep it was a minor Maltese miracle that we arose in time for a gentle meander around Valletta, the island’s capital. But after a round of strong coffees we ambled sheepishly into the city’s sacred baroque cathedral (stjohnscocathedral.com) – a random act of virtue in view of our devilish escapades!

Later, nursing hangovers on the plane, we refl ected that our weekend had rivalled any spent in hotspots such as Ibiza and Ayia Napa. Conversation even turned to our next assault on the party island, until one by one we stopped chatting and caught up on some much-needed sleep.

easyJet flies to...

Malta from seven destinations. See our insider guide on page 152. Book online at easyJet.com

Clockwise from right, Gianpula; Bar 22; Paceville;

St Julian’s; with Darryn Portelli at Marrakech

PH

OTO

S ©

SU

PE

RST

OC

K, C

OR

BIS

| S

PEC

IAL

TH

AN

KS

TO

ZA

RB

CO

AC

HES

.CO

M A

ND

GAT

WIC

KE

XP

RES

S.C

OM

38-44_ej_weekendersMC_CM.indd 4038-44_ej_weekendersMC_CM.indd 40 12/08/2010 13:2212/08/2010 13:22