Makalu Adventure Part II by Jayant Doshi

9th

May – Makalu base to Yangley – 8 hours.

It snowed whole night. Our tents were covered with snow when we

woke up. There were a few inches of snow on the ground, and the skies were

dark and cloudy. Thick mist reduced visibility to a few yards. Our hopes of

seeing Makalu disappeared with these weather conditions.

I got ready and put on my boots and gaiters. It was time to say good

bye to my three colleagues, who would wait for the helicopter to come and

pick them up. I was to trek back, and retrace the trek we had already done.

To others, that was unnecessary and dangerous, and they felt that mine going

on my own was not wise, and that the trek filled with risks. No one said so

explicitly, but implied so in their conversation. Bhola, the kitchen guide,

came with me today. He was very caring person, and really looked after me.

Today the trek was along the river valley and comparatively easy, though we

had to be aware of rock falls. It was miserable weather whole day with mist

and drizzling rain.

At

about 10.30 we

saw the helicopter flying above our heads. Soon after, it

turned back and landed near where we were walking. The

pilot came and talked to Bhola who told them where the

exact pick up was. After a short while we saw the

helicopter flying overhead. We waved, and I knew in my

mind that very soon they will be back in Kathmandu in

the comforts of the luxury hotel while I still have a week

of walking to do.

We stopped at the tea house for our lunch. The

old man, a former guide, had a neat shop in there and

Atul had asked me to take a photo of the same. Whilst I

was sitting there for my lunch, suddenly I felt odd in my head, and feared that I might be coming on with a headache.

After lunch the trek became difficult, and my headache became annoying. For two hours I kept hoping that

camp site was near. I was feeling tired. The kitchen assistant came with lemon tea, and I assumed the camp site was

round the corner, but I was wrong. We kept walking for over one hour before we saw the camp site, and even then it

took us almost half an hour to reach it. We walked almost nonstop and I was knackered. We walked in one day what

we had walked in three days while coming up. The walk

was not much easier now compared to then, but I assume

we really walked fast and without stopping. If others had

been with me then I very much doubt if we would have

made to this site in this time – not because they could not

have been able to walk this far but because with others

around, the rest breaks would be more frequent and longer

in time.

I was totally knackered when I reached the camp

site. The tents were not ready, but I just lay down on the

bed in the tea house. Soon after, Kitap and others came.

They started after the others had left by helicopter. They

walked much faster so it was obvious they came here so

quickly. As soon as the tent was ready, I went into the tent

and laid my sleeping bag, and rested till dinner time. As it was raining, I had my dinner in the tent, and I did not wait

for much longer to sleep.

10th

May – Yangley to Dobate – 7 hours.

Last night I went to sleep at 8.00 and was soon

fast asleep. I was woken up by the sound of rain at

around 2.00. I could not sleep after that but in my half

asleep state, I had some frightening thoughts – or one

may call nightmares whilst half asleep. Today was the

day when we had to cross those fast flowing streams

which frightened everyone last time. Today was the day

we had to pass that slope where rocks fall, and where

PD was saved by a whisker. Suddenly I began to fear the

possible risks in this trek. I got imaginary visions of

some one falling in the stream and being dragged down

the slope; or a rock coming down and hitting some one.

I saw visions of some one dying, and how we all go to

see the widow to pay some money. At one point, I was

the victim. I began to think that I was being foolish in doing this trek, and that I should have gone with others. The

thought even occurred that I might still have to call the

helicopter, and that everyone will laugh at my stupidity.

The thought of rains all week, and the fact that my head

cover was inappropriate haunted me. I cursed myself for

not borrowing one from Nirmal or others.

I got up. I felt much better. The negative

thoughts of the night had disappeared, and I seemed

positive about the day’s walking. We left at 7.30. I

normally got ready very fast, and as I was alone it was

easier to leave quickly. On the way Kitap explained that

it is wise to cross this section as early as possible in the

day, and earlier we are, easier it gets to cross that section.

As day rises, and sun gets warmer, temperatures rise,

snow starts melting. This brings more water into the

streams; dislodges rocks and causes rock slides. I

wondered why Kitap forgot this when we crossed it the first time. We walked for three hours continuously without

stopping. When we crossed this area on 5th May, everyone termed this as the most difficult and dangerous trek. It was

after this walk, when we got our shoes filled with water while crossing the streams, and when PD had a close

encounter with a falling rock, that the decision to fly back by helicopter was suggested. Kitap said that normally he

would allow four and a half hours to cross this patch. But we finished in three hours – showing how fast we walked. I

found the walk so easy that I thought we still had to cross those dangerous streams. It was when Kitap told me that we

had already crossed those streams that I realised that my fears were totally ill-founded. Today was also a miserable

day and it rained most of the day.

Our lunch was arranged in a large cave. I felt relaxed and happy. All the negative thoughts of previous night

were gone, and I felt happy that I was continuing my trek. I stretched myself and lay there comfortably. There was

total mist and we could hardly see anything. After lunch we climbed up a very steep mountain, and the trek was over

rocks and very difficult. The steepness of this slope

was not noticed when we came down the same. But

this time I had already walked for half day, and with

tired legs this steep climb proved very difficult. This

seemed more difficult than the Arun valley crossing,

which was still to come. As I was alone with Kitap

and Bhola, I did not get many excuses to stop. And

whenever I stopped for a while, Kitap would always

prod me by saying “shall we go”. We reached our

camp site by 2.30. That must have been the fastest

walk I had done going uphill. Surprisingly, I did not

feel tired at all. As it was raining, there was not much

to do so I lay in my sleeping bag though I could not

sleep. Again I had my dinner in my tent as it was

raining.

May 11th

- Dobate to Toshigaon. – 13 hours.

I woke up at 5.30 after a good night’s sleep. I

peeped through tent flap and I saw sunrays and some

mountains, and I thought we are going to have a clear

sunny day. But I was wrong. This was going to be a

day I would remember for a long time to come. By the

time I was ready, it had become very cloudy and misty.

The mist lingered around for most of the day, and

made visibility very poor.

Kitap explained that we will be crossing the

mountain passes (Keke and Shipton) and reach Kauma.

If at that stage I was still feeling fit, Kitap said, we will

walk down to Toshigaon. He expected that we should

reach Kauma by 2.00. We planned to start at 6.30 but

were delayed and did not start till 7.00. This part of the

trek was equally difficult from both sides as we go up and then down each pass. When we came here first time we had

some hard time, and others found it very difficult and dangerous part of the trek. We walk over snow for between four

and five hours and that makes it slow and difficult.

Last time when we walked in snow we had lots of mishaps. We put our feet in holes, and slipped or fell down.

But today was perfect. I hardly put a foot wrong.

And the reason was Bhola. He was very

considerate and caring, and he made sure that I

walked on the right track. He would go in front of

me jumping and digging his heels in the snow,

making a path for me to follow. Had this sort of

care been taken when we all four walked on this

path before then we might not have had the

problems we faced then. Before we walked on the

snow if the guide had given us some advice and

instructions, then we would not have felt this as the

most dangerous part of the trek.

We got the worst weather conditions. In the

morning it was totally misty, and that lasted for

most of the morning. At first we had hail storm,

and the little stone like snow balls hit us while

walking, and made our walking difficult. Then it changed to snow fall and the snow fall also hindered our speed. As I

was alone, and with Kitap and Bhola helping me, I walked much faster. Also I did not take many rest breaks which

meant that we reached Kauma by 1.30 – in 6 ½ hours. Kitap had expected that we would take 8 hours.

Kitap told me that it will take four hours to Toshigaon. I assumed that if we start at 3.00 then we will be there

by 7.00, and most likely earlier as I normally walked faster then what Kitap assumed. So after lunch I decided to take

rest before walking again. We left at 3.00.

The walk was downhill most of the way. Soon after we started walking, it started raining, and soon became a

deluge and downpour. Monsoons had arrived early. As we were walking down hill, water ran along our path making

our trek into a running stream. My water proof boots could no longer stop this deluge, and I had water inside my

boots. Water created muddy conditions and made walking difficult. The intensity of rain kept changing, but it never

stopped raining. Luckily I was wearing wet suit and gaiters. I had put these on as a precaution against snow. Kitap had

told me it was not necessary to wear this but I for once

decided to wear them. Bhola was carrying my ruck sack,

with his ruck sack on top, and then covered by his jacket.

He was soaking in water. There was no question of

taking a rest stop, or stopping to have a sip of water. I

could not bear the thought of Bhola putting everything

down so I could have water, and get all bags and himself

wet in the process. We kept walking.

We walked through a forest, and a time came in

the evening when I could hardly see anything. Kitap put

his head light on my head, but that light did not give

much help. Bhola kept leading the way till 7.00 without

the help of any light. Then he also found it difficult to see

his way. He took my light which had to be held in hand.

Kitap had a torch but it ran out of batteries and he was

following us in the dark. With thick mist, heavy rains

and trees all around us, it was very difficult to see even

with the lights. We reached a point where some trees

had fallen and blocked our path. Bhola went underneath

those fallen trees and found a way for us. We came

across a river with wooden planks which were put there

for crossing the river. Bhola found they were very

slippery so we crossed the river over some rocks. That

crossing would have been difficult during day light also.

I was getting tired. I asked Kitap several times

how far was Toshigaon. His estimate of four hours

seemed totally off the mark. But there was not much I

could do, and it was no good complaining either. Soon

after crossing the river, we at last saw our tents, and I

gave a sigh of relief. We had walked for thirteen hours. Last five hours we had not stopped even for a sip of water.

And the weather had not been friendly either.

At last we reached our camp site at 8.00. It was still raining

heavily. I just sat in my tent and started removing my gaiters, boots and my

wet clothes, ensuring that too much water did not get into my tent. I sat

half inside with my legs outside to prevent mud and water dirtying my tent.

I hardly had removed my gaiters and my shoes, when Bhola came running,

with a large candle in his hand, and told me not to remove my things. He

asked me to pass my gaiters and boots to him. He started looking at my

trousers and my legs, and found leeches which he picked one by one and

burnt them on the candle. Even then those leeches rolled over and jumped

out of the candle. I removed my wet trouser and my jacket and t-shirt.

Bhola checked every part of my body minutely and asked me to change my

trouser. He came back and took my trouser. Then he looked all around the

tent to see if any leeches were left. He must have picked as many as twenty

leeches. I got a few leech bites on my leg, and blood oozed out of the bite.

Leech is a tiny insect like a snake, less than an inch in length,

which sticks to human skin, and sucks blood till it dies. The only way to

remove the leech would be by either burning, or cutting the skin. Trying to

pull the leech could be painful as the skin would pull out with it. I am told

that leech sucks so much blood that it blows to a much longer and fatter

size then its original size. We were asked to bring our gaiters, and warned

about leeches. The tiny snake like insect can stick to the skin and suck

blood, and I am told that one could die if enough leeches were to get onto

the human body. Today morning I did ask Kitap if I should wear gaiters, and he bluntly told me that I do not need

them. I nevertheless wore them as we were going to walk through snow. But I never imagined that they would protect

me against leeches, nor did Kitap even suggest that we might face leeches later in the day.

I was soaked in the heavy rains. Even my camera which was inside my rain coat got wet. The ruck sack was

soaked in water. Even my big bag which had plastic cover over it had some water inside. The advantage of being on

my own was that I could keep all my bags inside the

tent and do not have to worry about packing the bag

till morning.

I had walked for thirteen hours, and though

I was tired I did not feel any pain in my legs. But

just in case the calf muscles were to pain me at

night and disturb my sleep, I took some pain killers.

I had a good night’s sleep.

Leeches breed fast in rain. While walking

through the forest, leeches would have got on our

shoes, gaiters and trousers. The guide is supposed to

warn and inform of such dangers. Leech, once it

gets on to the skin, is difficult to remove. Either one

has to use salt, or burn them or cut them from the

skin. I was not even aware that there were leeches

on my clothes. Had not Bhola come in time, and

saved me from these insects, I guess I could have

been in hospital with all those leeches covered over

my body, and sucking my blood for the night.

Ideally, Kitap should have warned me, and advised

me to remove all my wet clothes away from my tent

so that no leeches would get into my tent.

What a day it had been. Mist, hail storm,

snow fall, walking in snow, hot sun and humidity,

monsoon downpour, walking in the dark and then to

end it all the leeches jumping to suck my blood made

it a day to remember. From a height of over 4200

metres, we came down to 2200 metres in one day,

and walked for thirteen hours. We could not have

asked for more. But I survived, and I was still in high

spirits that is what mattered most.

When I told Kitap about the leeches next morning, he laughed and said “you had nothing – I had twenty five

leeches on my body” as if this was a contest, and his comment was made to make me feel better. I felt very angry at

his attitude. He lived in these parts, and he would know how to deal with this. I was his client and it was his duty to

protect and advise me. His unprofessional and carefree attitude shocked me, and I felt that this person was not fit

enough to be a guide.

12th

May – Toshigaon to Arun valley – 8 hours.

The rain lashing on the tent woke me up

early, but I lay in my sleeping bag till 6.15. I felt

wonderful, and quite happy that I was going well on

my return trek. Previous days long walk, and the bad

weather had not dampened my spirits. I felt fresh and

invigorated. When I came out of the tent, it was a

lovely morning with sun just rising, sky with a few

scattered clouds, and our camp site overlooking a

beautiful valley with a river, surrounded by

mountains with thick forests, and snow covered peaks

to be seen at a distance. I took some photos and

savoured the natural beauty around me. I had been

unlucky in weather conditions I encountered for the

last three days, but today I was going to enjoy this wonderful atmosphere. This is what trekking in the mountains is

about.

Yesterday was the longest day of non-stop trekking. Heavy rains and walking in the dark made it a

treacherous day. But today I was feeling fine with no pains. I got ready after sorting out all wet clothes and food stuff.

We met an Italian guy in Makalu base camp and I saw him at the same tea house where we were camped. He also

walked the same stretch as me, but of course he walked much faster and was here by 4.30. However, he said he was

totally shattered and he gave compliments that I walked very well, and that I am not showing any signs of having

walked so much yesterday. I told him about my encounter

with the leeches, and he was shocked to hear it. His guide

had advised him to carry salt in his pocket all the time. Our

guide gave us no hints or guidance in the matter.

My endurance, my physical stamina and ability to

face worst situations were tested to the limit, and I came out

with flying colours. The clear day did not last for long. It

started raining again. As my ruck sack water bag was

leaking, I asked Bhola to put drinking water in the

aluminium flask. To add to my woes, the flask leaked and

things which were already wet got more water on them.

We left at 8.50. The trek was mostly downhill

through the forests. The Italian passed us and he took my

email address. When I mentioned that I write a report on my

trek, he asked if I was a writer. I replied that I am not a

writer, and that my writing is not that good. He

commented that if I can walk this good then my writing

must also be good. That was a wonderful compliment.

He was walking even faster than his guides, and we saw

his two guides trailing behind him by a long distance.

Kitap mentioned on the way that he got really

worried when I told him that I am walking back instead

of flying by helicopter. He tried to make me change my

mind. He thought that I would never make it to

Tumlingtar by Tuesday, and arranged to change the

flight by a day. But when he saw my speed of walking,

he realised that he was wrong, and that we would be

able to catch the flight as per the original schedule. We

stopped for lunch at a small village. For once, it was not

raining though the sky was overcast. The scenery was

spectacular. Mountain slopes covered with thick forests, and lower slopes with farms and huts, the sound of river

waters flowing down the valley, and the snow capped peaks in the far distance made it enchanting to look at. For once,

I was relaxed and had the opportunity to appreciate this wonderful nature and its beauty while I was having my lunch.

After lunch, our trek led us to our next destination of Seduwa. At Seduwa, Kitap phoned Kathmandu and

informed everyone that we were fine and on schedule to reach Kathmandu by the following Tuesday. As we were

quite early, Kitap decided that we would walk down

into the Arun valley, cover as much distance as we

could, and then camp so that next day we can climb to

the top of the mountain to Num, and then walk half

way to Khadibar. We walked till almost 5.00 in the

evening and then camped on a narrow strip of farm

land on the slopes of the valley. There was just about

space to put our tents, but the site was wonderful, and

within hearing distance from the flowing waters of

Arun river. After three bad days, weather wise and

walking wise, we had a good day today. The weather

had been good, and walking was not that taxing. I felt

quite relaxed and fresh after a pretty long day of

trekking.

13th

May – 9 ½ hours.

I was awake quite early, but I lay in bed waiting for Bhola to come and wake me up with the morning tea. I

came out to see a lovely valley with a clear sky, and after many days, the first sighting of the sun. The sun was about

to rise, and I took several photos of the natural beauty that surrounded our camp site.

We left at 7.25. At first we walked down to the river valley, and crossed a swing bridge, and then we started

the steep ascent to Num. The sun was getting stronger, and our early part of the trek was through trees which gave us

protection against the strong sun rays. But then when the sun came on to our heads, and it became really hot, we did

not have the shelter of the trees, and this made our walking very difficult and frustrating. I was sweating profusely,

and taking a rest break every now and then as it was very difficult to walk in this hot weather. We reached Num at

about 11.00. I phoned home to find a voice mail. After a short rest, we proceeded towards our lunch break. I assumed

that the walk after Num will be on flat ground or a gentle descent. But I was wrong. The ascent uphill continued, and

the mid-day heat made walking very difficult.

After the first week of trekking, I started getting

pain on my left shoulder blade. I thought that the weight

of the ruck sack was causing the pain. Against my own

wishes, I decided to give the ruck sack to the guide to

carry. But the pain continued, and I felt that perhaps I

had caught cold on the back with the cold and the hot

weather, rain and sweat this was likely to happen. The

pain started a while after we started walking in the

morning, and lasted for two hours or so. Today, when

walking from Num towards our lunch camp, I suddenly

felt a severe pain in my back, and this was much more

painful than it had ever been before. Kitap was the only

person walking with me, and I immediately asked him

to press my back. But he just pressed it once and left it. He

showed no sympathy, nor did he enquire what was bothering

me, or if he could help me in any way. I felt really angry at

him for being so unconcerned and inhumane. I kept walking,

pressing the back with my own hand. After a while, the pain

subsided.

Lunch was arranged on a slope, in the midst of lots

of trees. After lunch we kept walking in search of a suitable

site for our camp site. I was tired, but I knew that whatever

extra distance we cover today, would mean less walking

tomorrow. The first site selected by the porters was rejected

by Kitap. After some time, we found a lovely farm house

with a ground that would allow us to camp there. The site

was beautiful, overlooking a green valley with lots of terrace

farms.

14th

May – 8 ½ hours.

I was awake early but I lay in bed till my morning tea came. It was a lovely sunny day with clear skies. My

breakfast was laid in the open in the sun shine. I took photos of the site and had my photo taken while having my

breakfast. We started our final full day of trekking at 7.25. Soon after we started walking, Kitap pointed out Mount

Makalu. For all these days, we walked right up to the base of that mountain, but weather did not permit us to have a

look at this peak. And on this very last day, when we

were long distance away from that mountain, I could

now see the mountain. I took a few photos. But soon

after that, Mount Makalu got partly covered by clouds

while rest of the sky was still clear. Surprisingly, rest of

the sky was blue, and all other mountains peaks were

clearly visible, but Mount Makalu remained under cloud

cover for the rest of the day. Mission accomplished. My

friends all yearned to get a glance of this mountain but

they did not get that opportunity. I fortunately got the

chance to see it.

We had a long lunch break. I was sitting in the

balcony of the restaurant, and the balcony overlooked

the whole valley surrounded by mountains and snow

covered peaks. I was relaxed and I sat there admiring the

creation of nature. The valley was interspersed with lovely farm houses, and terrace farms along its slopes, and the

sight was breath taking. I spent a long time admiring the scene.

We reached Khadbari at about 4.00. We stayed in the same hotel as we did before. I had a nice cold water bath

after almost eighteen days. Today was almost the end of the trek. Kitap wanted that we walk down to Tumlingtar, but

I did not want to spend a night in that poor quality hotel with lots of insects. I felt happy and at ease. The satisfaction

of having completed the trek was great. Others gave up, and I decided to complete the trek. First three days were

trying and taxing; but I came through. I felt great. I never felt any leg pains, or did not have any knee or ankle pains. I

used to get tired after a long day, but then a good sleep

gave me full recovery. The fact that all bones and

limbs were intact was even more reason for

satisfaction. And that out of four, I only completed the

trek felt great – not forgetting that I am the oldest of

the lot. Of course, others trekked well too, and I am

not trying to decry their performance. But at the cost

of self praise, I could not but feel proud that I had

achieved this feat. Only blemish on my record was that

I did not carry my own ruck sack. I assumed that the

ruck sack was causing the back pain, but I was wrong.

15th

May – to Tumlingtar.

I got ready leisurely. I distributed the balance of

the food stuff to all the porters and others. We started

walking down to Tumlingtar. It did not take us long. We

were there by 10.00 a.m. I sat there on a chain in the

forecourt of the hotel. I, on behalf of the rest of my friends,

gave tips to each and every one. They all seemed happy. I

had my lunch, and walked to the field nearby for my flight

at about 1.00.

I reached the hotel to a welcome from my

colleagues. I was not tired, nor did I feel fazed by the

experience of the previous week. But I had the great

satisfaction of achievement that could not be put into

words. This was the most difficult trek so far in my

experience, and I continued on the trek on my own, and

completed the trek without any problem or mishap. This is what made this trek a great adventure that will stay in

memory for long time to come. This trek had variety and variation that is what made it exciting, challenging, difficult

and dangerous in some ways. We go from 450 metres to a height of 4800 metres. We walk through forests, valleys,

climb many mountains and cross many rivers and streams, we walk through snow and cross over mountain passes, we

see mist and blazing sun, we go through snow fall and monsoon downpour, we sweat in the heat, and freeze in the

snow, we cross streams overflowing with water and we miss falling rocks, we get our legs into deep snow and we slip

and slide on the icy snow. The trek had everything one can imagine or expect. That is what made this trek so great.

Some might read self boasting into this, but it

has to be accepted as an achievement. Others did well

in every way, and I am not criticising their decision not

to walk back. They had their reasons, and some valid

arguments for their decision, and I never disputed the

same. Everyone in the group was good at walking, and I

still believe strongly that they all would have been able

to walk back same as me. The problems we faced, the

reasons why we found the trek very dangerous, were

more due to lack of advice and guidance from the guide

than anything else. And since I believe everyone could

have finished this trek, my achievement was no more

than normal, and if I am to be bestowed with bouquets

then others in the group deserve the same treatment. (all articles on website www.jayantdoshi.yolasite.com)